Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-dw
September 23, 2002 - October 17, 2002
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: the dad blamed spellin demon! |
>
> In a message dated 9/22/02 10:54:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> johnc(at)datasync.com writes:
>
> <<
> Hi Steve,
> "Obliviously this is something I can't do with a Firestar and 52 hp.
Not
> sure I would do it with 200 hp and the right kind of plane from some of
the
> responses I read so far. It's bad enough just having Murphy's Law nipping
on
> your butt all the time without throwing fuel on the flames. Thanks for
the
> info."
>
> So now I know it's definitely out of the question. Sounds sorta kin to
crop
> dusting.
>
> Later,
> John Cooley >>
> D'wanna make you mad John, but "Obliviously is a different word than
> Obviously. One relates to something that sticks out ...kinda obviously and
> the other is just the opposite....totally in the dark.... sorry buddy, but
> you used it in a coupla real serious threads and it detracted from the
> genuine intent that could have been played out.
> George Randolph
>
>
George and Gang,
I make many mistakes in life. Someone pointing them out to me as George
has without malice is one way of learning from them. I'll pay more attention
to the spell checker and what the suggested corrected word is. Guess I was
so caught up in the content of the response that I was oblivious to this
obvious mistake. I will pay more attention to this. Thanks for pointing it
out to me.
Later,
John Cooley
Firestar II
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | iPilot kinda slow! |
| From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
I ordered some charts from iPilot on the 17spt. They have not arrived yet.
Has anyone had problems with their charts being slow to ship?
Checked the web site and they still show as not being shipped.
I have always used sporty's they are fast. I reordered from Sporty's the
same charts, and left a cancellation order with iPilot. I hope I don't get
hit twice with the charges.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: balancing carburetors - Rotax 912 |
| From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
09/23/2002 03:57:33 PM
Listers:
I wanted to check the balance between the carburetors on my 912S recently
and couldnt find the simple instructions I had gotten some time ago from
Lockwood aviation. I called them recently and Shane went over the
procedure with me on the phone. I dont remember ever seeing the procedure
on the Kolb List and thought I would share it here so others could take a
look, and it would also be permanently available from the archives.
1 Start the engine and bring up to operating temperature.
2 Shut engine down, and install vacuum gauges on the intake manifold,
at the cross-over tube.
3 Re-start the engine, set throttle at idle, and close valves on vacuum
gauges until the vibration on the indicator needles is dampened and you can
get a reading.
4 The carburetor attached to the gauge reading the lowest vacuum is
opening first. Retard this carburetor by adjusting the idle stop screw
until vacuum readings for both carburetors match.
5 Advance throttle to 2500 RPM and note vacuum gauges. The carburetor
with the lowest indicated vacuum is being opened first by the throttle
cable. Increase the tension (take out the slack) in the throttle cable for
this carburetor until the vacuum gauges for both throttles match.
The carburetors are now balanced.
Hope this helps. Perhaps others have a different procedure and care to
comment.
regards,
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: balancing carburetors - Rotax 912 |
> I wanted to check the balance between the carburetors on my 912S recently
> Erich Weaver
Erich/Gang:
Thanks for the information.
How do you go about getting to the carbs to adjust with the
engine running?
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | X-country and visiting fellow Kolbers |
Dear fellow Kolb enthusiasts:
I had my first "close encounter" with a fellow Lister this evening. The weather
here in SE Michigan was darn near perfect today so I snuck out of work early
and sent the Mark II skyward. Moreover, I pointed the nose toward Kirk "Snuffy"
Smith's place 40 miles to the Northwest. And I found it!
Kirk has a super neat home and a gorgeous 2000 foot grass runway cut out back.
As promised, there was game a-plenty, wild turkeys in this case! I was glad I
buzzed the runway once before landing. Unfortunately, I then made a horrible landing
(with Snuffy watching!), even managing to scoot off into the uncut area
of the runway and mow down a few of his weeds for him! Oh, well, vanity, vanity!
I made Snuffy promise not to tell anybody what an icky landing it was.
In any event, the ship was flying well, engine running cool and strong, and I'm
getting more comfortable with every flight. The 80 mile round trip required just
under 5 gallons of fuel, so I think I'm hitting the 3.5 gph mark pretty close.
On the way back, I scooted up to 4000 feet. I was going to go on up and pop above
the broken clouds but I just got too cold! I'm gonna have to throw a jacket
and some gloves in that there other seat, I reckon!
Anyway, Kirk was great and made me feel very welcome. He says anybody who can get
a plane there is welcome and would even like to see a Kolb fly-in organized
at some point. He says he can park 200 Kolbs and after seeing his property, I
can vouch for it!
Trips like this one are what flying is all about! Thanks to everyone who contributed
advice and "how to's" and especially to Kirk for keeping such a great place
open and available to those of us who can get there!
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
| Subject: | Re: balancing carburetors - Rotax 912 |
Instead of the vacuum gauges, I used a loop of clear tubing with water and
balanced the water in the tubing. I had the wings off and tail tied down.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: balancing carburetors - Rotax 912
Listers:
I wanted to check the balance between the carburetors on my 912S recently
and couldnt find the simple instructions I had gotten some time ago from
Lockwood aviation. I called them recently and Shane went over the
procedure with me on the phone. I dont remember ever seeing the procedure
on the Kolb List and thought I would share it here so others could take a
look, and it would also be permanently available from the archives.
1 Start the engine and bring up to operating temperature.
2 Shut engine down, and install vacuum gauges on the intake manifold,
at the cross-over tube.
3 Re-start the engine, set throttle at idle, and close valves on vacuum
gauges until the vibration on the indicator needles is dampened and you can
get a reading.
4 The carburetor attached to the gauge reading the lowest vacuum is
opening first. Retard this carburetor by adjusting the idle stop screw
until vacuum readings for both carburetors match.
5 Advance throttle to 2500 RPM and note vacuum gauges. The carburetor
with the lowest indicated vacuum is being opened first by the throttle
cable. Increase the tension (take out the slack) in the throttle cable for
this carburetor until the vacuum gauges for both throttles match.
The carburetors are now balanced.
Hope this helps. Perhaps others have a different procedure and care to
comment.
regards,
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: X-country and visiting fellow Kolbers |
Thanks Ken! Did you make a bad landing? I thought you were dodging that
flock of wild turkeys. I can see one thing. I need to make a couple of turn
around areas for Kolbs as 50 feet isn't wide enough to turn one around.
That will be this weekends project. Boy, did that Kolb ever look pretty
coming in over the pond. Ken has the honors of being the first Kolb to land
here. After watching Bonanza's, Cessna's, etc. takeoff , it was amazing to
see that Kolb jump outa here. It was 200 feet in the air at the point where
most planes are just leaving the ground. What an
airplane!!!!!!.......Snuffy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: X-country and visiting fellow Kolbers
>
> Dear fellow Kolb enthusiasts:
>
> I had my first "close encounter" with a fellow Lister this evening. The
weather here in SE Michigan was darn near perfect today so I snuck out of
work early and sent the Mark II skyward. Moreover, I pointed the nose toward
Kirk "Snuffy" Smith's place 40 miles to the Northwest. And I found it!
>
> Kirk has a super neat home and a gorgeous 2000 foot grass runway cut out
back. As promised, there was game a-plenty, wild turkeys in this case! I was
glad I buzzed the runway once before landing. Unfortunately, I then made a
horrible landing (with Snuffy watching!), even managing to scoot off into
the uncut area of the runway and mow down a few of his weeds for him! Oh,
well, vanity, vanity!
>
> I made Snuffy promise not to tell anybody what an icky landing it was.
>
> In any event, the ship was flying well, engine running cool and strong,
and I'm getting more comfortable with every flight. The 80 mile round trip
required just under 5 gallons of fuel, so I think I'm hitting the 3.5 gph
mark pretty close.
>
> On the way back, I scooted up to 4000 feet. I was going to go on up and
pop above the broken clouds but I just got too cold! I'm gonna have to throw
a jacket and some gloves in that there other seat, I reckon!
>
> Anyway, Kirk was great and made me feel very welcome. He says anybody who
can get a plane there is welcome and would even like to see a Kolb fly-in
organized at some point. He says he can park 200 Kolbs and after seeing his
property, I can vouch for it!
>
> Trips like this one are what flying is all about! Thanks to everyone who
contributed advice and "how to's" and especially to Kirk for keeping such a
great place open and available to those of us who can get there!
>
> -Ken Fackler
> Mark II / 503
> Rochester MI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: X-country and visiting fellow Kolbers |
In a message dated 9/23/02 10:25:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
kfackler(at)ameritech.net writes:
Dear fellow Kolb enthusiasts:
I had my first "close encounter" with a fellow Lister this evening. The
weather here in SE Michigan was darn near perfect today so I snuck out of
work early and sent the Mark II skyward. Moreover, I pointed the nose toward
Kirk "Snuffy" Smith's place 40 miles to the Northwest. And I found it!
Kirk has a super neat home and a gorgeous 2000 foot grass runway cut out
back. As promised, there was game a-plenty, wild turkeys in this case! I was
glad I buzzed the runway once before landing. Unfortunately, I then made a
horrible landing (with Snuffy watching!), even managing to scoot off into the
uncut area of the runway and mow down a few of his weeds for him! Oh, well,
vanity, vanity!
I made Snuffy promise not to tell anybody what an icky landing it was.
In any event, the ship was flying well, engine running cool and strong, and
I'm getting more comfortable with every flight. The 80 mile round trip
required just under 5 gallons of fuel, so I think I'm hitting the 3.5 gph
mark pretty close.
On the way back, I scooted up to 4000 feet. I was going to go on up and pop
above the broken clouds but I just got too cold! I'm gonna have to throw a
jacket and some gloves in that there other seat, I reckon!
Anyway, Kirk was great and made me feel very welcome. He says anybody who
can get a plane there is welcome and would even like to see a Kolb fly-in
organized at some point. He says he can park 200 Kolbs and after seeing his
property, I can vouch for it!
Trips like this one are what flying is all about! Thanks to everyone who
contributed advice and "how to's" and especially to Kirk for keeping such a
great place open and available to those of us who can get there!
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
>>
Good thread, Ken, ....I just got back from visiting my daughter's family in
Fenton MI...is that anywhere near youn's guys? It is near Detroit.
George Randolph
Firestar Driver from Akron Oh
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: balancing carburetors |
| From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
09/24/2002 11:55:34 AM
I do manage to balance the carbs with the engine running. I get the plane
securely tied down by its tail and wings, and remove the wing gap seal.
Then I stand up in the cage and face backwards, toward the engine, while
standing on one or both of the two seats and squeezing my upper body
between the BRS and the top of the cage. Its a bit awkward, but
manageable. I can then reach the idle stop and throttle cables for
adjustment with the engine running. I wouldnt call it comfortable and
pleasant, but it works, and if done carefully and thoughtfully is
relatively safe. No clue as to how this would be accomplished on other
planes without a removable wing gap seal.
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100
Santa Barbara, California 93117
Tel: 805-964-6010
fax: 805-964 0259
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: X-country and visiting fellow Kolbers |
----- Original Message -----
From: <GeoR38(at)AOL.COM>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: X-country and visiting fellow Kolbers
> Good thread, Ken, ....I just got back from visiting my daughter's family
in
> Fenton MI...is that anywhere near youn's guys? It is near Detroit.
>
> George Randolph
> Firestar Driver from Akron Oh
George/ group
GPS 43* 10.8' N ....... 83* 21.1' W.......It's about 35 miles
NE of Fenton. Don't have a chart handy or I'd get you a heading from
Fenton. If you fly IFR , take a heading of 45* until you hit I69. Then east
to M24 at Lapeer, then north on M24 until your between the 2 largest lakes 8
miles north of Lapeer. Then turn west and go 1.5 miles. Start looking down
and you will see the runway with a big round track next to it on the north.
Pond at east end of runway windsock at the NW corner of pond, spruce/pine
plantation running parallel to the runway on the south side. Watch for
deer! Especially early and late in the day. Do like Ken did and make a pass
or 2 to flush em out. .........Kirk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
Weather looks marginal to me for Friday.
http://www.weather.com/outlook/travel/detail/USKY1090?dayNum=3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Is there an alternate date for the kolb fly-in in case of bad weather? I'm
not going to be able to make this weekend but could almost any other
weekend.
Jim
Mark III
Charlotte, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "possums" <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: X-country
>
> Weather looks marginal to me for Friday.
>
> http://www.weather.com/outlook/travel/detail/USKY1090?dayNum=3
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: X-country and visiting fellow Kolbers |
> Fenton MI...is that anywhere near youn's guys? It is near Detroit.
Fenton appears to be about 20 miles SW of Snuffy's place and about 50 miles
W of me, certainly within flying distance from my home airport of New Haven
Macomb (57D).
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flyin Weather |
> Weather for the SE looks like crap from now through Saturday
> morning.
>
> Just got off the phone with Linda at Kolb. She is in the
> process of contacting Bruce Chesnut, on business in Tampa,
> FL, to see if we can postpone the flyin until the following
> weekend, 4, 5, and 6 Oct.
I already have my non refundable airline tickets for this Friday, I will not
be a happy camper is everything changes.
Will Uribe
El Paso, TX
FireStar II N4GU
C-172 N2506U
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flyin Weather |
> I already have my non refundable airline tickets for this Friday, I will not
> be a happy camper is everything changes.
>
> Will Uribe
Will/Gents:
For your sake I hope it goes this weekend. But I don't
think there will be too many folks flying in if the forecast
holds true.
I have not gotten any word back from Kolb reference a go or
no go for the flying this weekend.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flyin Weather |
Maybe some of us could leave early Saturday morning
and get there by 1:00 or 2:00PM.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flyin Weather |
Captain Ron & List
Isadore is just off the Mexican coast at 10pm. Forcast to hit the La. coast
at 7am. Thurs, morn. If it goes as predicted it will effect Kentucky by Sat.
If it slows or sits it could be Sunday. The winds in Houston have picked
up to 20mph& gusty. They are predicting 80mph + When It comes ashore . It
is 5 00 -550 miles south of New Orleans. I was planning on driving up, but I
have to deal with the possibility of protecting my house & possesions. I
would have to drive through it if It follows the track they are talking
about. Tornadoes follow hurricanes a long way inland. I might get to come
if they change the time to next weekend. Ill just have to keep an eye on the
list to see what happens. I just hope it doesnt turn to the left of its
predicted path or it will nail us here in Houston. Hope this helps.
Ed ( in Houston)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Kolbers and Kolbettes:
Have just finished a last look at the WX situation, the anticipated track
for the remnants of this thing, and where all that rain is headed...
Afraid Beauford is going to wimp out on this one if they elect to try and go
ahead this weekend... Driving all that way up 13 or 14 hours pulling a
high-profile trailer in the crappy weather for the privilege of camping in
what will undoubtedly turn into a mudhole out in the middle of the airfield
just doesn't make much sense...a man can only force himself to have just so
much fun... besides, spent 30 years camping in mudholes, usually with
several thousand close friends... practice didn't seem to make it get any
funner.
If Kolb decides to resked for next weekend, will plan to make the trip...
Wimpy Beauford of Brandon, FL
FF 076
P.S. Woody, your Tampa beer is still aging well...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Kolb Flyin Is A GO |
Morning Gang:
Linda just called. The flyin is a go for this weekend.
Weather in London is forecast to be good for the weekend.
Bruce Chesnut said it is too late in the process to make a
change.
I was just reading the early morning weather forecast for my
area, Montgomery, Alabama. Looks like I may be able to get
out of here after lunch on Friday.
Right now is is raining and has been since yesterday
afternoon.
Let's keep our fingers crossed, say a few prayers that we
will have a good safe flyin. Hope to see everybody there.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Kolb fly-in is ON |
Linda reports fly-in is still ON for this weekend!
9-25-02 12:30 Eastern time
=====
John & Lynn Richmond :-)
Palm Coast, Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912S numbers |
Hi Robert/Gents:
These are questions sent bc to me ref the 912/912S.
Normal has to take in to consideration the OAT. When it is
hot outside the engine temps are going to be higher. Colder
temps outside, colder eng temps.
Recently during 90 to 100F OATs:
> normal oil temp?
210F
> normal oil pressure?
40 to 45 psi
> normal rpm's for straight & level cruise?
I normally cruise 5,000 or 5,200 rpm, depending on how much
of a hurry I am in and how long I am going to be flying.
Have flown to OSH and back from Alabama at 5,400 rpm with
the 912 in 1994, just to see what the results would be. Had
only been back from the Alaska flight 10 days.
> indicated cruise speed?
Aprx'ly 85 mph true at 1,500 feet AGL and 5,000 rpm.
Aircraft loaded lightly. Heavy, as in 1,100+ lbs, I fly
5,200 to maintain 85 mph.
> normal water temp?
Robert, we do not measure water temp. We measure cylinder
head metal temp. Water temp info does us no good. We are
only concerned with cyl head and oil temp. The two temp
senders located in #2 and #3 cyl heads are measuring cyl
head metal temps.
You didn't ask about EGTs and I do not measure them. The
mid range mixture of the 912 is extremely lean. If it gets
too lean in cold weather it will let you know. Engine
starts shaking and it will scare the shit out of you,
especially the first time it happens. My 912S is not at
sensitive. The fix for it was lower the fuel needles one
notch in cold weather.
Main jet has never been a problem on either 9121 or 912S.
A quick check to see if you are getting too lean in mid
range:
While flying with the throttle set anywhere between 4,000
and 5,000 rpm, pull on the enricher (choke). If the engine
gains rpm it is telling you that it is too lean and wants a
little more fuel. Lower the clips on the fuel needles a
notch to fix. If the engine stumbles a little and/or loses
rpm, it is ok.
I am going to send this back to the Kolb List. Some
912/912S folks may be able to use the experience of an old
timer that discovered it through trial and error after
encountering the problem and not having a source to find the
answer. Is that a long sentence or not?
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912S numbers |
Gang:
I also want to add that oil temps and cyl head temps are
important.
A minimum of 190F for oil temp in order to burn off moisture
and some contaminants. If you don't keep it up to 190F you
will notice white creamy cruddy stuff starting to coat the
inside of the remote oil tank. The 912 series engine uses a
dry sump crank case with remote oil tank.
Rotax doesn't say anything about it, but cyl head temps are
also important to good engine operation. Cold cyl head
temps, i.e., 120 to 140F will not warm up the heads and
induction system enough to properly atomize the fuel and get
a good burn. The spark plugs will tell you you are running
to rich, when in reality you are running too cold. The oil
and cyl head temps run hand in glove. By masking off
portions of the coolant radiator you will bring up cyl head
temps and the oil temp. I use gaffer's tape (stuff roadies
us to tape down wires and cables during concerts and shows.
Get it from a friend that works at the Civiv Center. It is
great for wrapping around the radiator. Last winter and in
the Arctic summer 2001, I used two wraps on each side of the
radiator which equaled about 4 inches covered each side.
Worked great. Keeps the 912/912S happy.
Take care,
john h
PS: Didn't have time to proof the previous post or this
one. Try to read through my mistakes. If you have any
questions as to content, spelling, intent on my part, please
send me an inquiry. Later. I am two hours late going to
town. Bye. :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912S numbers |
> So, what's your "normal" CHTs?
>
> -- Robert
Robert/Gang:
Summer aprx 190 to 210F. Winter I mask to keep them up to
above 190F. I like 210F and when both oil temp and cyl head
temp are there, the engine and I are both happy.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Reynen" <frank_reynen(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912S numbers |
> > normal water temp?
> Robert, we do not measure water temp. We measure cylinder
> head metal temp. Water temp info does us no good. We are
> only concerned with cyl head and oil temp. The two temp
> senders located in #2 and #3 cyl heads are measuring cyl
> head metal temps.
>
John,Robert,
I have a front mounted radiator on my 912 MKIII and measure the return
coolant temp between the engine and radiator.
If I climb long and steep in hot weather, the coolant will exceed 250 degr
and I have to back off to prevent boiling of the coolant.
Frank Reynen MKIII/912/Full Lotus floats 716 hrs
reynen(at)webcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912S numbers |
> I have a front mounted radiator on my 912 MKIII and measure the return
> coolant temp between the engine and radiator.
> If I climb long and steep in hot weather, the coolant will exceed 250 degr
> and I have to back off to prevent boiling of the coolant.
>
> Frank Reynen MKIII/912/Full Lotus floats 716 hrs
Hi Frank/Gents:
What kind of readings are you getting on the CHT and Oil
Temp gauges when the water temp is 250 and near boiling?
I have not had that problem with the rear mounted radiator.
Have no idea what the water temp is. Using the same Rotax
912 radiator on the 912S, which generates much more heat,
with good results. Never had a boil over problem that I
know of.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
OK... I'm shamed into un-wimping... I've packed the trailer with the
Kleenex airplane and a tent... will hit the bricks at 0600 tomorrow,
Kentucky bound...
Beauford
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>
>Wimpy Beauford of Brandon, FL
>FF 076
>
>P.S. Woody, your Tampa beer is still aging well...
If you gonna wimp out so am I. Don't like the idea of pulling my little
indian plane on an open trailer for 6 hours in windy conditions. Seems like
an invite for a misfortune. If they reschedule I will be there.
Sorry about your luck Will. Perhaps there are other Kolbers that could
put you up down that way. If you can change the destination to Detroit I
can put you up and I can give you a tour of the Kolbs in the area.
If the weather does turn out okay then I will drive down. It will be a
last minute decision. Of course Beauford will probably stay home so he wont
have to give up that 2 yr old beer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Reynen" <frank_reynen(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912S numbers |
>
> What kind of readings are you getting on the CHT and Oil
> Temp gauges when the water temp is 250 and near boiling?
>
John,
The CHT reads about 210 and the oil temp goes also up to 250 degr under
these conditions and the EGT's are also hitting the limits at 1560 degr.
All readings come from an EIS unit. I expect that these higher oil temps are
the result of the placement of the oil sump directly under the engine behind
the oilcooler with very short hoses connecting all components together and
as such have much less oil in circulation.
I also think that my VLS installation maybe blanking some of the air into
the radiator at high climb angles during slow foreward (45 MPH) speed.
The radiator is the standard for the 912 and came with the engine package.
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <check6(at)alltel.net> |
| Subject: | Recommendation from J Todd |
J Todd recommends the following Barnstormers Classified Ad to you (click
on link):
http://barnstormers2000.com/show_referred_ad.asp?ID=82828
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heading for Kentucky. |
Hoping for somewhat favorable weather for anyone attempting to fly to the
show. John H's 20mph tailwind may be 30+ at cruise altitude ? I leave today
from upstate NY to NJ, for a stop over at my daughters, pick up Mark Sellers
in Philidelphia 6am Fri., then turn right to Kentucky. Hope to get there
before all the pizza is gone.
Don't forget "NAME TAGS" guys.
Fly Safe
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
With all the talk of weather reminded me of my favorite weather site for us
aviators.
http://www.avweather.com/
Took my 912 MK III for a ride by myself {165 lbs.), I usually have someone
with me, on a nice cool evening and had a blast. I forgot how fast that
think would climb, traffic pattern altitude three quarters of the way down
the runway.
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
I hope you guys will still drive even if you can't fly.
Tom Overholt Asheville NC
________________________________________________________________________________
Guys
I observed a Kolb flying low and slow in the Ky/Tenn border area near
Westmoreland Tenn and Scottsville,Ky.About and hour ago. I think I
could hear the plane growl---"London--London--London!! Herb in
Scottsville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gherkins Tim-rp3420 <rp3420(at)motorola.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Firestar II aileron differential |
Kolbers,
I need your recommendations.
I am setting up my ailerons and attaching them to the stick via the pushrods.
With the wings level, I cannot place 15 degrees (per the blue prints) on my aileron
bell cranks with out running out of threads on my pushrods. I actually
need extra threads on my pushrods for aileron nose heavy/tail heavy adjustment.
I am thinking about making longer pushrods so that I can obtain less than 15 degrees
on the cranks to build in essence a "mechanical differential". For example-
Making the aileron that is traveling down move 2 inches and the opposing
aileron traveling up move 4 inches. This will lesson the effect of adverse yaw
when initiating a turn.
Is this necessary? Do you notice adverse yaw when initiating a turn? Do you have
to kick rudder in a turn for adverse yaw? Or should I not worry about it?
Sure appreciate your experienced advise.
Thanks,
Thinking too much Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: herbgh(at)juno.com [mailto:herbgh(at)juno.com]
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb Flyin
Guys
I observed a Kolb flying low and slow in the Ky/Tenn border area near
Westmoreland Tenn and Scottsville,Ky.About and hour ago. I think I
could hear the plane growl---"London--London--London!! Herb in
Scottsville
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Buzzards Row Fyin |
Buzzards Row U.L. club is having a flyin at their private airstrip this Sat.
at Jackson, N.J. Go to www.buzzardsrow.com for info.
David Snyder
Building FSII
Lakewood, N.J.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Firestar II aileron differential |
Don't know about the Firestar II, but the MKIII sure needs differential.
Adverse yaw is where that thing lives.
When I made new holes in the aileron bellcrank to improve leverage, my
original rods were too short, had to make up new ones. (You can always make
em' shorter, stretching em' is tough...)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Kolbers,
>I need your recommendations.
>
>I am setting up my ailerons and attaching them to the stick via the
>pushrods. With the wings level, I cannot place 15 degrees (per the blue
>prints) on my aileron bell cranks with out running out of threads on my
>pushrods. I actually need extra threads on my pushrods for aileron nose
>heavy/tail heavy adjustment.
>
>I am thinking about making longer pushrods so that I can obtain less than
>15 degrees on the cranks to build in essence a "mechanical
>differential". For example- Making the aileron that is traveling down
>move 2 inches and the opposing aileron traveling up move 4 inches. This
>will lesson the effect of adverse yaw when initiating a turn.
>
>Is this necessary? Do you notice adverse yaw when initiating a turn? Do
>you have to kick rudder in a turn for adverse yaw? Or should I not worry
>about it? Sure appreciate your experienced advise.
>
>Thanks,
>Thinking too much Tim
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: herbgh(at)juno.com [mailto:herbgh(at)juno.com]
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb Flyin
>
>
>Guys
> I observed a Kolb flying low and slow in the Ky/Tenn border area near
>Westmoreland Tenn and Scottsville,Ky.About and hour ago. I think I
>could hear the plane growl---"London--London--London!! Herb in
>Scottsville
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duncan McBride <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
I thought I put this to the list a while back but I can't find it in the archives.
I'm bolting the Titan exhaust system onto my 912 and I'm stuck wondering
if I should put some anti-sieze on the exhaust studs. Somewhere back in time
I remember torquing off rusted studs on a lawn mower, and the idea of someday
doing that to my beautiful 912 has me seized - I go to tighten up the nuts and
my arm just freezes, and I get dizzy. What should I do?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Thompson" <eagle1(at)commspeed.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust nuts |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Exhaust nuts
>
> I thought I put this to the list a while back but I can't find it in the
archives. I'm bolting the Titan exhaust system onto my 912 and I'm stuck
wondering if I should put some anti-sieze on the exhaust studs. Somewhere
back in time I remember torquing off rusted studs on a lawn mower, and the
idea of someday doing that to my beautiful 912 has me seized - I go to
tighten up the nuts and my arm just freezes, and I get dizzy. What should I
do?
>
> Having twisted off studs on automotive engines, Try to find brass nuts.
They wouln't freeze.
George, The "Bald Eagle" in Arizona
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust nuts |
I've used anti-sieze on my automotive exhausts for years, and never had one
freeze on; never had one come loose, either. Works good. Brass nuts work
fine, but you've gotta be very careful not to strip them.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Exhaust nuts
>
> I thought I put this to the list a while back but I can't find it in the
archives. I'm bolting the Titan exhaust system onto my 912 and I'm stuck
wondering if I should put some anti-sieze on the exhaust studs. Somewhere
back in time I remember torquing off rusted studs on a lawn mower, and the
idea of someday doing that to my beautiful 912 has me seized - I go to
tighten up the nuts and my arm just freezes, and I get dizzy. What should I
do?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Perkins <2scott(at)bellsouth.net> |
I now use Stainless steel nuts everywhere I can and in the case of
exhaust I double stack or triple stack them with the addition
of Anti-seize. The double/triple stacking of them is intended
to cover all the visible threads preventing exposure to air
and rusting. It should be noted that stainless nuts
are softer and weaker also than regular cadmium A&N nuts
so the double stacking also helps in that area also.
The antiseize also helps prevent corrosion and the sticking
of the nuts to the studs.
> From: Duncan McBride <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net>
> Subject: Kolb-List: Exhaust nuts
>
>
> I thought I put this to the list a while back but I can't find it in the archives.
I'm bolting the Titan exhaust system onto my 912 and I'm stuck wondering
if I should put some anti-sieze on the exhaust studs. Somewhere back in time
I remember torquing off rusted studs on a lawn mower, and the idea of someday
doing that to my beautiful 912 has me seized - I go to tighten up the nuts and
my arm just freezes, and I get dizzy. What should I do?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | London update, anyone? |
Has anyone heard from our flying brethren who are down in London? Are they huddling
in soggy tents and cold mud or what?
Who won the Mark III?
I certainly don't want to rub salt in any wounds if their weather was bad, but
it was one of those "top 10" days here in SE Michigan. I got 3 long cross-country
flights in. In all I covered over 200 miles!
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: London update, anyone? |
Hey Ken and all
Drove back late last night from the fly in. Good time was had by all.
Weather was good. The drawing was won by someone who was on the field
earlier in the day--but who had left by the time of the drawing. Herb
writes:
>
>
> Has anyone heard from our flying brethren who are down in London?
> Are they huddling in soggy tents and cold mud or what?
>
> Who won the Mark III?
>
> I certainly don't want to rub salt in any wounds if their weather
> was bad, but it was one of those "top 10" days here in SE Michigan.
> I got 3 long cross-country flights in. In all I covered over 200
> miles!
>
> -Ken Fackler
> Mark II / 503
> Rochester MI
>
>
>
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: London update, anyone? |
Hey Lar,
You were just a little to far south for the good weather but at least you
were on the right coast for it. I went to a fly-in in Turlock yesterday and
the weather was just about perfect - overcast to cut the glare and keep it
cool, no wind, about 80 degrees. About 50-60 ultralights showed up but only
one Kolb (a Firestar). Wish you all had been there.
Steve
Do not archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: UL: Re:TRIP TO MORGANTON, NC |
Several of us "Trenton Flyers" from Trenton, SC will be flying to Clyde
Valley Airport, Morganton, NC at the base of the Great Smokey Mountains on
October 25, 26, & 27 [Friday, Sat., & Sun.]. Some will camp there; others
will do the Comfort Inn thing.
We will fly around to various points of interest.
Anyone wishing to join us there will be welcome. Let me know.
Howard Shackleford
FS II
SC
P.S. Come on, Chad. You too, J.R.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Fly-In at Winchester VA |
EAA ch 186 will hold their Fall Fly-In at Winchester VA (OKV) N39-08.61,
W078-08.66
Sat 10/5 & Sun 10/6 with pancake breakfast both days (ad says hardy
breakfast!)
Both the airport and the Chapter are very UL-friendly. I won't be able
to attend as going
to my 89-year old sister's birthday. This leaves the UL winning spot
open!
Contact eaa186(at)yahoo.com www.eaa186.org
Bob N. FireFly 070
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: London update, anyone? |
The Old Poop in his MKIII, and buddy Dave in his AirCam flew up Saturday
morning. We were perfect VFR over the top of a solid cloud deck for 70
miles until we got right over Chestnut Knolls, and then there was a nice
big hole to drop down through, so we did. (For those of you of the Atheist
faith(?), it must be annoying when the preacher & his buddy drop in through
the only sucker hole we had seen within 70 miles. Guess how we arranged
that...)
Anyway, the turn out Saturday up until we left for home at 4PM was almost a
dozen airplanes and about 100 people. Excellent seminars, excellent
hospitality from the Kolb people, excellent free food. Got to meet a lot of
friends from the Kolb list. Very enjoyable.
Only negative was some old guy - tall rangy dude with shorts, barefoot,
hearing aids - anyway I had been down looking at Beauford's Firefly and had
just walked back to where my MKIII was parked, and suddenly this guy
reaches both arms around under the nose cone of the MKIII, and starts
lifting as hard as he could, apparently trying to lift the mains off the
ground or something. I told him that I would be a lot happier if he quit
trying to do that, and he looked at me funny and asked if it was mine. I
told him yes, and he said he just wanted to see how heavy it was. I told
him 513 pounds, if there was anything else he needed to know maybe he could
just ask me instead of fooling with my airplane; and then I watched him
close until he went away. Odd... Oh well, at least I didn't have to shoot
him...
Ground was soggy in places, but there were decent dry places good enough to
camp.
Flight home was beautiful, good vis, no wind. Got home about 6:20,
excellent day.
My buddy Dave in the AirCam wanted me to pass on the following:
He has flown up to Chestnut Knolls twice for the Kolb fly-ins, and says
that both times he was treated just as nice as if he owned a Kolb, says
that the Kolbers have a class act, an excellent facility, and an excellent
product. He really enjoyed the facility and the pilot conversations.
(One of the local pilots here is about to build a new aircraft, and did not
know that Kolb was just over the hill in London, Ky. - Dave gave him a
sales pitch par excellence to go buy himself a Kolb.)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Has anyone heard from our flying brethren who are down in London? Are they
>huddling in soggy tents and cold mud or what?
>
>Who won the Mark III?
>
>I certainly don't want to rub salt in any wounds if their weather was bad,
>but it was one of those "top 10" days here in SE Michigan. I got 3 long
>cross-country flights in. In all I covered over 200 miles!
>
>-Ken Fackler
>Mark II / 503
>Rochester MI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
I drove down from Santa Fe to visit Dennis & Dianne Kirby, in Cedar Crest, NM,
yesterday, and had a great time. They live waaaaayyyyy back in the mountains,
NE of Albuquerque, and have a terrific view from their living room. (I was OK
going in, with his map; but got lost coming out........zigged, when I shoulda
zagged) Dennis had some good ideas, that work well, and also used some he'd
learned on the List. The extended, fold down instrument panel made me envious..................wish
mine worked so well. It's an idea from Cliff Stripling,
(remember him ?? ) but Dennis has modified it, for more support, and easier
access. Simple & elegant. With his permission, I'll post a few pics on photoshare
a little later. I also like his tailwheel arrangement.............it's
a RANS unit, it's expensive, and he had to build an adapter (nicely done) for
it, but it's far superior to the stock Kolb unit. Vamoose is gonna see one.
The biggest news, tho', is that Verner engine he installed. It's 80 hp;
simple; moderately priced; simple, but rugged re-drive; good weight; looks good;
(and sounds better)...............I'm VERY impressed. Rotax 912 - - - -
LOOK OUT ! ! ! As more people see this engine, and compare it with others; it's
gonna be a winner. If you're looking at engines, take a good look at this
one. Another good idea he had, was to go to a boat covering outfit, and have
custom covers stitched up for his plane, while it's on the trailer. A little
tough to get on & off, and he's working on chafing pads now, but the plane is
completely protected while on the trailer, the covers breathe, and it looks
good. Nice job, Dennis. Admiring Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry McCurry <terrymccurry(at)yahoo.com> |
I attended the fly in in London this past weekend and had a great time. For those
that didn't know, Ray Brown has replaced Danny now and has turned the customer
realations back to a positive and supportive one! I now believe that the name
THE NEW KOLB AIRCRAFT really applies. Now we know that we have a great product
that we fly, plus great customer relations with the company.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Verner
>
Verner engine !
> he installed. It's 80 hp; simple; moderately priced; simple, but rugged
re-drive; good weight; looks good; (and sounds better)...............I'm
VERY impressed. Rotax 912 - - - - LOOK OUT ! ! ! As more people see this
engine, and compare it with others; it's gonna be a winner. If you're
looking at engines, take a good look at this one.
Big Lar,
Did you ride in Dennis's plane? Wondering how the plane performs with
that engine and a passenger aboard. ............Kirk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
9/30/02 10:56Gherkins Tim-rp3420
>
> Come on guys!!! Tell us more about the fly-in! I know Will Uribe was trying
> to make it, did he? Will is such a shutter bug, I'd figured he had some
> pictures posted by now. What's up?
>
> Any new mods on the planes?
> Any new plans for a new Kolb airplane?
> What about the landing gear they are developing as mentioned on their first
> electronic letter posted on the Kolb site?
> Did everybody get rides/fly?
>
> Things are too quite or im not getting posts.?
>
> Tim
========================================================
Well I found a receptive ear in Bruce to check into changing the cage of the
M3X to be able to accept a Conti O-200. Even though Bruce was interested in
also in modifying the cage of the Kolbra to accept the Conti's (C-85 &
O-200). I think he understand that a $12K Rotax is a killer for a major
portion of the blue collar folks (like me).
I am eagerly waiting to see what will happen with that. There are plenty of
used O-200's out there for less than 4K if one is willing to put some labor
into them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dean Penn <deanpenn(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Verner THE WEBSITE |
Lurker shields down...pzzzzt!
That Verner engine sounds real nice. It took me a
while to locate the website. It seems that Central
Florida Flyers is the US distributor...looks like
Verner offers two engines now...the Verner 1400 and
new Verner 133M.
Website is: http://www.centralfloridaflyers.com/
I don't fly a Kolb, but you guys are super and thought
might contribute a bit.
Lurker shields up....pzzzzt!
=======================================================================
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Copperstate Flight Canceled |
Hi Gang:
How do you type with droopy depressed type?
I flew up to the Kolb Flyin Saturday. Got out of here at
1215 Central Time. Had a headwind for 331 miles, right on
the nose. Slowed a 90 mph airspeed considerably, 70 to 80
mph. Was a good flight with beautiful weather, except for
the wind. Got there in time for supper. :-)
Missed all the seminars that were presented Sat afternoon,
but got to see and hear Travis Brown, my favorite parts man
at Kolb, play the 5 string banjo. He is an expert. Had the
drawing for the Mark III and I didn't win. A truck driver
that dropped by bought a ticket Saturday, and he will get to
take the Mark III home.
All us campers finally got a big fire going. It felt good
up there in the hills of Kentucky. We told lies until after
midnight. Beauford Tuton, Woody and his friend Andy, Steven
Green, Bill Herring, Mark Sellars, Bob Griffin, Jim and
Dondi Miller, my friend from Cajun Country (sorry, I can not
remember your name), and several other fine folks helped
with the conversation and the fire.
I missed my friend Richard Pike by two hours. He was flying
south over the mountains as I was flying north. Also missed
Captain Ron Mason, the new guy from Siera Vista, AZ. But I
did get to see his airplane Sunday, when he did a flyby on
his way out of the area. Some folks said that was Captain
Ron.
Flew as many of the Kolb Listers as I could Sunday. Waited
around for a brisk wind out of the north, but it failed to
show. Finally, shut my mouth long enough to get my tent
struck, the Mark III loaded and fueled, and took off for
Alabama about 1350 Central time. Was back home about 1800
with two P stops. Had a little less than 5 gal of fuel in
the tank when I landed at Gantt International Airport. On
the flight north, I made a mistake and took on 9 gal 100LL
at Rome, GA, at $2,59 a gal. OUCH!!! Was worth the
security of knowing I could make it across all that
wilderness, hardwood trees and mountains with fuel to spare
when I arrived at Chesnut Knolls Air Foundation.
Now the bad part. I was tired before I departed CKAF. The
4 hr flight was exceedingly long. I had a hell'uva headache
and a tooth that was nagging me a little. When I got home I
felt even worse. Went to the dentist this morning and he
referred me to a specialist, and on and on. Right now I
don't want to even look at an airplane, much less spend the
next 3 or 4 weeks flying 8 hr days all over the desert.
There is no way I could do it, even after spending $112.00
for sectionals that will be long expired before I can get
out that way again.
I have had to abort my surface journey to Alaska, flight to
Oshkosh, and now my flight to Copperstate in a time frame of
about 3.5 months. Such is life. There is a reason for
everything. Nothing happens by chance.
Now I have to get to feeling better so I can enjoy this Fall
flying, probably the best time of the year. Hopefully, will
being feeling well enough to fly 125 miles down to the SERFI
Flyin at Evergreen, Alabama. I missed it last year.
In closing, Bruce Chesnut, Ray Brown (new honcho for Kolb
Aircraft), and the rest of the Kolb gang, did an outstanding
job making everyone feel welcome, feeding and entertaining
us. They put on a first class show, the Fourth Annual Kolb
Flyin!
Take care,
john h
PS: A special thanks to all those that I have been
communicating with bc reference your offers of hospitality
and support for my intended flight. I appreciate you all.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 09/29/02 |
In a message dated 9/30/02 2:52:10 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> >Has anyone heard from our flying brethren who are down in London? Are they
> >huddling in soggy tents and cold mud or what?
>
Home from fly-in safe and sound at 4pm Monday. 36 hrs. drive, round trip
(Albany NY to London KY. and back---by way of Phili).
Did'nt rain Fri nite, Sat or Sun at the show, but dealt with soggy ground
that could'nt obsorb all of the prior rain. Kolb Co. could,t have done a
better job of putting this on and being accommadating to anyone who came.
They provided, showers, seminars, factory tours, entertainment, breakfast,
lunch, soda, a great dinner,(all for what ever you tossed into the basket)
and two piles of wet wood for a camp fire at the tent area. I guess that was
the challenge for the weekend. After oil, gas, and paper failed, John H. and
Steve showed the "Yankees" how it was done. Pilots from all corners of the
U.S. and Canada,(about a dozen of us) enjoyed the evening around the fire.
To top off a great weekend, Sunday, John Hauck gladly took anyone in the
camp area up for a hop in "miss p-fer". Thanks again John !!
Next year, if the weather cooperates, I'm sure alot will fly in.
Fly Safe
Bob Griffin
Albany NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Landing gear material |
Dear Fellow Kolbers:
My Mark II has fiberglass landing gear, that is, fiberglass rods. For a variety
of reasons, they're "not right" and I'd like to change them. I've found a supplier
of fiberglass rods but during my search I came across a listing for something
called Delrin on the Aircraft Spruce web catalog.
Does anyone know what this stuff is and is it suitable for landing gear legs and
are there any advantages or disadvantages of using it as compared to fiberglass?
Many thanks!
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
Will,
Thanks for sharing your pictures.
...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: <WillUribe(at)aol.com>
> >
>
> OK, here are some of the 149 pictures I took at the Kolb fly-in.
> http://members.aol.com/willuribe/
> Will Uribe
> El Paso, TX
> FireStar II N4GU
> C-172 N2506U
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com |
Jersey Shore is hosting a fly-in Sat.,Oct.5th at Pemberton airport.
http://www.buzzardsrow.com/JerseyShore/
David Snyder
Building FSII
Lakewood, N.J.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Verner THE WEBSITE |
That Verner IS nice. It was quickly (& privately) pointed out to me that
it's not quite as powerful as the 912, and is a little more maintenance
intensive, so ya pays yer money, and ya takes yer choice. At 2/3 the price
of a 912, it IS, in my opinion, very worth a look. I'll be listening to
Dennis' reports with great interest. Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Penn" <deanpenn(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Verner THE WEBSITE
>
> Lurker shields down...pzzzzt!
>
> That Verner engine sounds real nice. It took me a
> while to locate the website. It seems that Central
> Florida Flyers is the US distributor...looks like
> Verner offers two engines now...the Verner 1400 and
> new Verner 133M.
>
> Website is: http://www.centralfloridaflyers.com/
>
> I don't fly a Kolb, but you guys are super and thought
> might contribute a bit.
>
> Lurker shields up....pzzzzt!
>
> =======================================================================
> > Contributions of
> > any other form
> >
> > latest messages.
> > other List members.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
The 0-200 was my original choice for an engine.............for the reasons
you mentioned, as well as reliability. I found that the common 0-200 from
C-150's, etc., is the 0-200A - designed for tractor applications. We would
need the 0-200B, which (as I understand it) has different machining in the
thrust bearing area. They're not common, at all. I'm aware that Klaus
Savier, of Light Speed Aviation is using the "A" in his canard, (Long EZ ??)
and has it souped up to around 140 hp, but the Continental book says,
"uh-uh." Food for thought. Jerry Wiler, of Wiler Aviation, in Port
Angeles, WA., looked it up for me 6 years ago. Disappointed Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "CaptainRon" <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: FLY-IN
>
> 9/30/02 10:56Gherkins Tim-rp3420
>
> >
> > Come on guys!!! Tell us more about the fly-in! I know Will Uribe was
trying
> > to make it, did he? Will is such a shutter bug, I'd figured he had some
> > pictures posted by now. What's up?
> >
> > Any new mods on the planes?
> > Any new plans for a new Kolb airplane?
> > What about the landing gear they are developing as mentioned on their
first
> > electronic letter posted on the Kolb site?
> > Did everybody get rides/fly?
> >
> > Things are too quite or im not getting posts.?
> >
> > Tim
> ========================================================
>
> Well I found a receptive ear in Bruce to check into changing the cage of
the
> M3X to be able to accept a Conti O-200. Even though Bruce was interested
in
> also in modifying the cage of the Kolbra to accept the Conti's (C-85 &
> O-200). I think he understand that a $12K Rotax is a killer for a major
> portion of the blue collar folks (like me).
> I am eagerly waiting to see what will happen with that. There are plenty
of
> used O-200's out there for less than 4K if one is willing to put some
labor
> into them.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 9/30/02 6:36:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
WillUribe(at)aol.com writes:
<< I know Will Uribe was
trying to make it, did he? Will is such a shutter bug, I'd figured he had
some pictures posted by now. What's up?>
>
>
OK, here are some of the 149 pictures I took at the Kolb fly-in.
http://members.aol.com/willuribe/
>>
Great job on the photo's of TNK flyin, Will.. ... as usual we have come to
expect it and you exceed expectations every time.
George Randolph
Firestar driver from Akron, OH ....couldn't attend...boo hoo!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron gap seals |
I'd like to get advice from all and sundry about how to make the aileron gap
seal for a Mark II.
If you recommend tape, which is what I'm hearing, would you also please
specify its name or identifier and a place to get it?
I'd also be interested in the techniques, tips, and tricks for applying
same.
Thanks!
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pictures or attatchments on Kolb list? |
Perhaps I am being a bit jumpy, but I was not aware that attatchments could
be sent to the kolb list, yet there are two of them in my mail. Were these
two legitimite? or is it true that "paranoia is just a heightened sense of
reality". I want to trust Buford and Shack, but I don't need another virus.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pictures or attatchments on Kolb list? |
In a message dated 9/30/02 11:56:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
lcottrel(at)kfalls.net writes:
> ". I want to trust Buford and Shack, but I don't need another virus.
> Larry
>
>
>
I'm the SC "Shack"; I didn't send you anything.....
Howard Shackleford
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Infected message from LarryBigLar - Tail Feathers |
Warning - my virus program catch a virus in a message posted by
Larrybiglar(at)email.msn.com with a subject title: Tail Feathers
Here's what it reported:
Attachment Database.eml.scr infected with W32Bugbear.mm virus
Open at your own risk!!!
jerb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear material |
See the link below to get an idea of what Delrin is. It's a plastic but I
would not think it is strong or resilient enough for use as a gear
leg. Fiberglass is still one of the best materials for the application.
http://heritage.dupont.com/floater/fl_delrin/floater.shtml
When you say your fiberglass gear legs not right what is wrong with them?
jerb
>
>Dear Fellow Kolbers:
>
>My Mark II has fiberglass landing gear, that is, fiberglass rods. For a
>variety of reasons, they're "not right" and I'd like to change them. I've
>found a supplier of fiberglass rods but during my search I came across a
>listing for something called Delrin on the Aircraft Spruce web catalog.
>
>Does anyone know what this stuff is and is it suitable for landing gear
>legs and are there any advantages or disadvantages of using it as compared
>to fiberglass?
>
>Many thanks!
>
>-Ken Fackler
>Mark II / 503
>Rochester MI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Flaperons.......fiberglass gear legs |
Gang,
I need a picture of a flaperon mechanism where it attaches at the boom
tube . I am getting ready to adapt it to my Ultrastar I am rebuilding .The
Firefly or Firestar system can be adapted but I need a closeup to get it close
for fine tuning . Anybody got a pic or drawing they can e-mail me ?
I have purchased a 1 1/4 inch fiberglass rod for the landing gear on
the Ultrastar and noticed the post about negatives with the fiberglass gear legs.....What
gives ? (pun intended) .... I suspect they may make landings
a bit more challenging but may be a good thing for the week geared Ultrastar...I
don't believe they will break before major damage to the airframe even
with the intended extra braces.... Any input welcome....
Ed in Western NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear material |
| From: | Gene Ledbetter <gdledbetter1(at)fuse.net> |
Ken,
I was considering putting fiberglas legs on my firefly and would be
interested in your reasons for going from fiberglas to something else.
Gene Ledbetter
Firefly 128 hours
Cincinnati
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)sgmmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron gap seals |
Ken,
The archives have a lot of discussion of the methods to do the gap
seals. I did the standard, Kolb method. It was a lot easier than I
thought it would be. After doing the standard seals, I wondered why so
many people want to avoid it. I helped someone else do the book biding
tape and after doing that I was glad that I had used the Kolb method.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dama(at)mindspring.com> |
I recieved this message and thought that someone out there could help him. I
frankly don`t know much about the MkIII. You may respond to the list and I
will forward it to him if its easier.
Thanks,
Kip.....
hello i m french and i speek a just a letle english.
i want to buy =E0 kolb mark 2nd hand in Italie and i want to know if it's
possible to incruise the gross weight it's 830 lbs and i want to pass to
1000 lbs. I asked to new kolb aircraft and they say: it' s not possible to
give informations because it's not the same companie !!!!!! but it's
possible to buy me a mark 3 !!!!!
who can send me complete technicals data.
thank you
who buy kolb in ingland?
Ludovic.chochoy(at)wanadoo.fr
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
<< It's 80 hp; simple; moderately priced; simple, but rugged re-drive; good
weight; looks good; (and sounds better)...............I'm VERY impressed.
Rotax 912 - - - - LOOK OUT ! ! ! >>
Big Lar, and List Friends -
I think it will be a while before Verner engines become as popular as the
912! Rotax's little 4-stroke has 20 years of reliable history behind it -
Verner is only just emerging in the US market. (Though it IS quite popular
in Europe (it's JAR-certified there), same as where the 912 began its
career.) As the years roll by, and Verners become more popular, only time
will reveal whether it turns out to be as reliable as the 912.
For the time being, I will post performance data on the Verner as I acquire
flight hours. Presently, I have less than 2 hours time on it! (Recall - my
plane's maiden flight was early-September.)
The Verner does not spin as fast as a 912. Redline is 5000, and cruise
range is 3200-4000 rpm. Max torque occurs at 3800. And the 2:1 reduction
allows for a big prop (mine is 72"). What Larry didn't report was, at
cruise power settings, the prop makes much more noise than the engine. I
have not found the Verner to be high-maintenance. We'll see if that changes
over the years. I hope to be at the next Kolb Fly-in in London with my
plane.
I will try to post a picture soon on PhotoShare of my newly-done airplane
and a view of the installed Verner engine. So far, I'm quite pleased with
the engine. And, as Lar point out, it is only 2/3 the price of a 912.
Larry - thanks for the kind words in your post!
Dennis Kirby
Mark-III, finally flying in
Cedar Crest NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Thanks to those who chimed in with info on the altimeter, Especially
Clive Hatcher. The operation was a success by virtue of a little dab
of epoxy. The Kollsman recalibration on the United Instruments model
is simply remove the glass faceplate, place aside the little knob limit
stop, pull out and reset to current baro and altitude, reassemble.
-BB, MkIII , N3851E, getting closer but winter is hence, so I've
backed off from the feverish "gotta hurry" mode -not my style.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Larry,
The message I got was sent from your MSN email address. I would think it
had to come from your machine that your using that has access to MSN domain
otherwise the message would not have gotten send. Most ISP now require the
sender have a return address matching the domain their sending from. (It's
to prevent account and SPAM abuse.) Better check and see if your PC('s)
are clean.
jerb
>
>There's viruses floating around again. I just got a message from my old
>address of larrybiglar, and Norton yanked a virus off'n it. If you see
>that old signature..............DON'T open it. Also had a couple caught,
>& taken off those messages from the Sonex people. Be careful. I've also
>been getting quite a few messages with attachments from people I've never
>heard of. Automatic delete. I don't even try them. Most of the List'ers
>I recognize by name, so I go ahead with them. Lar. Do
>not Archive.
>
>Larry Bourne
>Palm Springs, CA
>Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
>www.gogittum.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gherkins Tim-rp3420 <rp3420(at)motorola.com> |
| Subject: | Aileron gap seals/X hinges |
Kolbers,
Who had the idea of X-hinges for all the control surfaces? I kinda remembering
seeing a web site on how to make x-hinges.
Thanks,
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: John Jung [mailto:jrjung(at)sgmmail.com]
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Aileron gap seals
Ken,
The archives have a lot of discussion of the methods to do the gap
seals. I did the standard, Kolb method. It was a lot easier than I
thought it would be. After doing the standard seals, I wondered why so
many people want to avoid it. I helped someone else do the book biding
tape and after doing that I was glad that I had used the Kolb method.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flaperons.......fiberglass gear legs |
Ed & Dale,
Re: Flaperons, the FireFly & all Kolb factory setups for flaperons move
the aileron push rods up & down relative to the boom tube. The US needs the
push rods moved forward & back relative to boom tube, but maybe you're
seeing something I'm not. Check archives also.
Re: gear legs, tempered chromemoly steel is lighter & stronger than
fiberglass. Bungie setup is probably the simplest. Lots info in archives
on this as well.
...Richard Swiderski
>
> Gang,
> I need a picture of a flaperon mechanism where it attaches at
the
> boom tube . I am getting ready to adapt it to my Ultrastar I am
rebuilding
> .The Firefly or Firestar system can be adapted but I need a closeup to
get
> it close for fine tuning . Anybody got a pic or drawing they can e-mail me
?
> I have purchased a 1 1/4 inch fiberglass rod for the landing
gear
> on the Ultrastar and noticed the post about negatives with the fiberglass
> gear legs.....What gives ? (pun intended) .... I suspect they
may
> make landings a bit more challenging but may be a good thing for the week
> geared Ultrastar...I don't believe they will break before major damage to
> the airframe even with the intended extra braces.... Any input
welcome....
> Ed in Western NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
>>I flew a mark II for quite a while and thought the aluminum gear legs worked
just fine. Why not stick with the OEM equipment?
Dear Mark Sellers and fellow Kolbers:
I have no problem with either fiberglass or aluminum per se, but the ones Kolb
sold me don't fit! The carry-thru tube (not sure of the correct name, the one
you stick the gear legs into) on my particular bird is a different size than their
current standard gear leg. That is, the tube is 1 3/8" ID and their legs
are 1 1/4" OD.
This is fundamentally the reason I'm asking the questions about this at all. You
see, the builder (not me) put 1 1/4" fiberglass rods in there all right, but
since they aren't the right size he basically wrapped them with tape(!) to get
them to to work and then just bolted them in. He then did a similar sloppy job
in putting on the axle fittings so that I have quite a bit of "slop" in the
fittings, which causes a toe-in condition with the tires. Finally, he didn't
get the gear legs cut to the same length and this causes the plane to sit slightly
at an angle when on the ground.
Now I've been flying this bird for a couple of weeks and none of these is a big
issue so far as I can tell, but I'd prefer that things be "more right" in the
landing gear department, if you take my meaning. If I order 1 3/8" metal tubes,
in order to fit the carry-thru, then I have to have the ends machined down
to fit the 1 1/4" axle fittings. Though I'm no kind of engineer or mechanic, this
seems to me to be giving away too much in the way of wall strength of those
tubes at a critical point. Doing the same with fiberglass seems less so. Moreover,
having now done many landing on these gear, and having had fiberglass gear
on my previous ultralight, I'm pretty happy with their forgiving nature.
Fundamentally, I'm open to anyone's suggestions for how to "mate" the cage to the
axle fittings. However, between the purchase of the bird and the necessary
ancillary purchases, the old wallet is getting a wee bit anemic, so I'd like to
find a low-cost solution rather than "the best" one. This isn't and never will
be a show quality plane. I merely wish to fly it safely, but I do feel that
this is one area where making the gear assembly a bit better is a good investment.
Thanks for your comments and everyone please chime in with your thoughts and ideas.
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
P.S. I have a set of standard Kolb landing gear legs (1.25" upper diameter, tapering),
two 3' lengths of chromolly in 1.25 OD, and two 3' lengths of chomolly
in 1 3/8" OD for sale!
----- Original Message -----
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com
To: kfackler(at)Ameritech.Net
Sent: Tuesday, October 01, 2002 6:28 PM
Subject: Gear legs
Ken:
I flew a mark II for quite a while and thought the aluminum gear legs worked
just fine. Why not stick with the OEM equipment?
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III, N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron gap seals/X hinges |
Seems like it was Possum who told me they were way too much work, several
years ago. Possum ??
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gherkins Tim-rp3420" <rp3420(at)motorola.com>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Aileron gap seals/X hinges
>
> Kolbers,
> Who had the idea of X-hinges for all the control surfaces? I kinda
remembering seeing a web site on how to make x-hinges.
> Thanks,
> Tim
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Jung [mailto:jrjung(at)sgmmail.com]
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Aileron gap seals
>
>
> Ken,
>
> The archives have a lot of discussion of the methods to do the gap
> seals. I did the standard, Kolb method. It was a lot easier than I
> thought it would be. After doing the standard seals, I wondered why so
> many people want to avoid it. I helped someone else do the book biding
> tape and after doing that I was glad that I had used the Kolb method.
>
> John Jung
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pictures or attatchments on Kolb list? |
And I'm the Beauford... and I didn't send you anything either... be
careful....
----- Original Message -----
From: <HShack(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Pictures or attatchments on Kolb list?
>
> In a message dated 9/30/02 11:56:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> lcottrel(at)kfalls.net writes:
>
>
> > ". I want to trust Buford and Shack, but I don't need another virus.
> > Larry
> >
> >
> >
>
> I'm the SC "Shack"; I didn't send you anything.....
>
> Howard Shackleford
> FS II
> SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Kolb covering options |
Can a Kolb be covered with Dacron? Anyone ever hear of this being done successfully?
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb covering options |
The Stits (Poly Fiber) process IS dacron, Ken. When I went thru the seminar
at A/C Spruce, those many years (almost 6) ago, my understanding was that
the material is similar to sail material, but is - I think - "unsized."
Can't remember what that means, (CRS) but I do know from personal experience
that sail material is "crinkly," and aircraft dacron is soft. After the
seminar, I bought the little practise kit, that includes a wooden frame
about a foot or so square, and sufficient dacron, and goops to finish it. I
recommend it highly. After covering it, and coating it with poly-brush, I
tried to break, or tear it. I've got a pretty healthy right, (still ! ! !)
and beat on that thing for months, for anyone who'd watch. Literally dozens
of others had a go at it, too. I could leave huge knuckle prints in it, and
a bit later, they'd be gone. Tuff Stuff ! ! ! GoGittum Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb covering options
>
> Can a Kolb be covered with Dacron? Anyone ever hear of this being done
successfully?
>
> -Ken Fackler
> Mark II / 503
> Rochester MI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Big bad Beauford, Butcher of Brandon is "best built " says Bruce.
Our old buddy Beauf got top honours for his Firefly at the Kolb
picnic. Top dog Bruce Chestnut proclaimed him the best built Kolb there.
Congrats Beauford. Bill Futrell recieved the top gun award.
The great Beauford and I were able to sit down and quaff a few beers as
we watched the activities. It was a great time. Tried to get Dondi drunk on
Canadian beer later but after one she was pretty well done for the evening.
The Thunderbird trailered nice on the open trailer for the 650 Km trip. Jim
and Dondi will be surprised to learn it took 7 and a half hours to get home
this time driving at posted speeds. They have accused me of going a bit
fast the last time I went down.
I even got a couple nice comments on the design and modifications
I did on my Mk 111. I will be posting photos to the list soon.
We were witnewss to some good flying and the newest craze seems to be
gully flying. Thats where the guys dive into the gully beside the strip and
come out the other end. A bit of a shocker the first time you see it but
very neat. I was able to get my bird up three times on the
weekend.Beautiful country but you sure need to have a good engine. There is
no room for engine failures there.
It was great to be able to put faces to the kolb list names. I watched a
drifter and Mk111 take off as we pulled in. That was Pastor Pike and his
buddy taking off before they were able to say hey.
I hope all other list members had as good time as I did.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Thanks for the photos Bill. I hope you had a good time down south.
dick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pictures or attatchments on Kolb list? |
Thanks guys, I was sure that Matt has always blocked attachments. but the
temptation was strong to open them. Perhaps you better scan everything,
since it obviously got into your address book. Oh, I am pretty sure that it
was Mike that it came from rather than H. The timing was absolutely perfect,
just after request to hear how the Kolb Fly in went.
Regards
Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Pictures or attatchments on Kolb list?
>
> And I'm the Beauford... and I didn't send you anything either... be
> careful....
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <HShack(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Pictures or attatchments on Kolb list?
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 9/30/02 11:56:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > lcottrel(at)kfalls.net writes:
> >
> >
> > > ". I want to trust Buford and Shack, but I don't need another virus.
> > > Larry
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > I'm the SC "Shack"; I didn't send you anything.....
> >
> > Howard Shackleford
> > FS II
> > SC
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear material |
In a message dated 9/30/02 11:06:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
slyck(at)frontiernet.net writes:
<<
Ken, I don't know it's strength but delrin has no fiber component . You
should
contact the manf (Dupont?) for it's characteristics... >>
Delrin is a form of Nylon and is hydoscopic... hope I spelled that
right....takes on water and swells a little but is very temperature resistant
george Randolph
firestar driver from Akron, Oh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
Am I correct in my understanding that if I do not open any attachments I
cannot get one of these viruses? Can I get one by just reading a regular
e-mail? How would I know if I had caught one?
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
At 11:05 PM 10/1/2002, you wrote:
>
>Am I correct in my understanding that if I do not open any attachments I
>cannot get one of these viruses? Can I get one by just reading a regular
>e-mail? How would I know if I had caught one?
Steve --
I meant to tell you... between now and the time you get a virus scanner,
you can go to this page:
http://housecall.antivirus.com/housecall/start_corp.asp
and have it scan your PC for free.
-- Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
At 11:05 PM 10/1/2002, you wrote:
>
>Am I correct in my understanding that if I do not open any attachments I
>cannot get one of these viruses? Can I get one by just reading a regular
>e-mail? How would I know if I had caught one?
That is mostly correct. In _most_ cases, you can have a slewful of
programs on your hard drive that have sleeping viruses in them, and as long
as you DON'T run any of them or "open them", then you'd be just fine.
However, it's way too likely that you might do it by accident, or because
you forgot, so the general idea is to detect them as they try to enter your
computer -- usually via email or a web page download -- and fix the files
or delete the files as they are detected. (I prefer deletion.)
There are a few ways, though, that you can get some nasty without opening
an attachment.
1. Some web sites can "hijack" your machine and mess up your
fonts/color/icons, etc. (Why they do that, I don't have a clue since they
aren't ever gonna get your business!) Not much you can do about that
except be very careful about what you click on in web pages, especially
porn site pages/ads, and casino type pages or ads. A friend of mine got
caught with one of those just the other day when he clicked on a "Close
Window" link! Messed him up good, but at least it wasn't a virus that
replicates and redistributes itself.
2. If your email program has an option to auto-load or auto-open
attachments, then you're truly doomed. Poke around in your email program's
options to make sure that is not turned on.
Generally speaking, it highly advised you always run a virus-protection
program at all times. Most modern ones constantly watch your memory, hard
drive, floppy drives and all incoming AND outgoing connections (email, web,
ftp, etc.) and scan's everything. With that kind of protection, the only
ones you need to worry about are the ones they don't have a signature file
for yet.
And, as far as, how do you know if you got one? Without a virus-scanner,
you won't... until it's too late. With a virus-scanner, you'll know right
away and it always tells you. Some of them offer to let you try to fix the
offending program, but I always just delete it. No sense in tempting fate!
Hope this helps.
-- Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincehallam(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Verner/Mr.Kirby |
Iwill follow your exploits with Verner with interest.Are you able to post a
table of total power plant weights versus power and make/type ????what is
the noisy prop you are using?Are you considering anything else?Is it TOO
noisy at cruise,or at what settigs? Do I have it right that tha verner
derived from a half volkswagen?
Vnz wannabe kolber 2 seater
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: "Shack's" replies message of Tue, 1 Oct 2002 |
You wrote- "Larry C. and gang: wasn't Mike either....I haven't replied off
list"
Gang,
The latest one is "from" Ken Fackler with the subject line-
Re:Kolb-List: WX Decision. It also has a attachment.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
>
>On the X hinges check out John Williamson's webpage.
>http://home.attbi.com/~KolbraPilot2/November2001.htm
>
>Regards,
>Will Uribe
I had problems getting the photos to come up on the screen and then I noticed in
the net site description:
http://home.attbi.com/~KolbraPilot2/Construction\20011117d.JPG
If you change the "\" to a "/" the photos will come up
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Guys,
I have not been to the New Kolb website in quite awhile. I notice the
Slingshot is not displayed there. Does anyone know if TNK is
discontinuing the kit? I may be blind, but I can't find anything there
about this.
http://tnkolbaircraft.com
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gherkins Tim-rp3420 <rp3420(at)motorola.com> |
John C. and gang who replied about the X-hinge, I appreciate it. I now have all
my questions answered. With all the attached pictures and websites, as well
as detailed written descriptions I am in good shape. I remember X-hinges being
talked about a while back and could only find one thread(John Cooley's) in
the archives referring to X-hinges.
Now with these added threads, we should have it covered in the archives.
The reason why I decided to use X-hinges, and I am only using it on the lower rudder
hinge(my preference). When I was rigging rudder cables, and while aligning
and tightening the cables with cable bugs. I noticed that I was crushing
the rudder hinges with the tightened cables.
Now, know that my hinges are temporarily installed with a few sheet metal screws
as suggested in the Kolb builders manual. None the less, I didn't want to stand
the chance to crush the hinge when they are permanently installed by pushing
to hard on both pedals while sitting in the seat flying or during a butt pucker
landing. Who knows, I may like the idea enough to install them throughout
the aircraft. I just want to watch weight way back there on that long arm
of a tail.
Since there is basically two hinges(one on each side), I will place a rivet every
inch instead of every half inch on the hinges.
Thanks again friends,
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack & Louise Hart [mailto:jbhart(at)ldd.net]
Subject: Kolb-List: X-Hinge Photos
>
>On the X hinges check out John Williamson's webpage.
>http://home.attbi.com/~KolbraPilot2/November2001.htm
>
>Regards,
>Will Uribe
I had problems getting the photos to come up on the screen and then I noticed in
the net site description:
http://home.attbi.com/~KolbraPilot2/Construction\20011117d.JPG
If you change the "\" to a "/" the photos will come up
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: X-Hinge Photos |
Tim/Gang:
Nothing wrong with the way Homer Kolb does the hinges. I
have always done mine that way.
I have had lower rudder hinge rivets loosen up on me, but
only after many hours.
As far as over loading the hinges by pressing both pedals at
the same time during a panic situation, no problem there. I
am sure I have tried to break rudder cables, crush hinges,
and rip the rudder right off the tail post during times of
sheer terror. Better yet, how about during several
crashes. Got to brace against something. :-)
The first time I saw the X hinge arrangement was on the
Prototype Ferguson at Sun and Fun 1991 or 92. Wherever Bill
Ferguson brought the first one to Lakeland. Did he come up
with the idea? I do not know. He had a lot of experience
as a professional aircraft mechanic. Worked for Delta I
think.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>Say, did any of you guys who made it to London last weekend meet up with a
>chap named Dominique from Michigan? He flies from my home airport, though he
>trailers his Firefly in each time and was planning to be there.
>
>-Ken
I think that was him setting up beside me when we first arrived.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Listers,
I was in Chatham, Mass on Cape Cod this weekend and I saw a Kolb Mark III. Someone
said it was moved from Provincetown while they renovate that airport.
Anyone know whose Kolb it is?
Jim Mark III
Charlotte, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
John H, and Kolb Friends -
Comparing different products and offering our personal experiences with
those products (i.e., Verner vs. 912 thread) is what makes this List
interesting & helpful to the people who have yet to choose! So John, no, my
feelings are NOT hurt for your pointing out a few clear differences between
these 2 engines.
<< If you prop for 4000 rpm,
you have a 70 hp eng. >>
True - and with my airport elevation at 6500 msl, that brings horspower even
further down to approx 60 hp. But that engine still pushes my Mark-3 to an
amazing and scary (to me) 1000 fpm climb rate - plenty for my needs! I am
100 percent pleased with how my Mark-3 flies with this engine. (All my 500
hrs of previous flying experience has been in anemic, low-performance GA
planes, to add perspective.)
<< Verner requires valve adjustment every 25 hours.
Oil change 50 hrs; compression check every 25 hrs.
Driving pulley main bolt must be retorqued each 25 hours.
Cylinder head bolts retorqued every 25 hours.
Ignition Timing check and adjust every 50 hrs.
Spark plugs replace at 100 hrs. >>
All true. I will decide over the next year or 2 whether all the periodic
maintenance is too much hassle or not. I do not fly as much as John Hauck
flies, so perhaps this is acceptable. I'll likely do this maintenance as
part of my annual condition inspection. My opinion might change when I
begin doing longer flights. But it's good data for potential future
customers to know: Verner prescribes more frequent tinkering than a 912.
Like I said before, in my "vast" Kolb flying experience of 2 hours, it has
not been a bother so far. :-)
You have never heard me state that the Verner-1400 is a "better" engine than
the Rotax-912. I've found that it fits MY needs, and was, in my opinion,
the best choice of the 4-strokes available that I could afford at the time.
I'll also say that I've had excellent customer support from Steve Flynn at
Central Florida Flyers, where I bought the engine. If something about this
engine makes me unhappy or dissatisfied, this List will be the first to
know!
Meanwhile, I need to begin accumulating flight hours on my new plane so I
can share some meaningful data on the Verner with this List ... as well as
for just the pure fun of it!
Dennis Kirby
N93DK, finally flying in
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Thanks for the kind words, Woody, but I harbor no illusions about my
airplane building "skills..." there were lots of prettier airplanes there
than the "kleenex" Firefly... Woody's among them...
Finally got home to Tampa on Monday afternoon... Long haul... but worth it.
Kudos to the outstanding support from New Kolb.... They went out of their
way to make all of us feel welcome... The tenting was soggy, but the New
Kolb chow, the campfire lietelling, the Canadian brew, and the camaraderie
were all absolutely first-rate.... could not have been better...
Bruce Chesnut indicated that his emphasis for the next fly-in would be on
more educational seminars, because of the exceptionally positive reception
of this year's.... Should be super...
Have attached a couple of snapshots in the matronics photoshare..
Regards,
Beauford, FF 076
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: FLY-IN
>
>
> Big bad Beauford, Butcher of Brandon is "best built " says Bruce.
> Our old buddy Beauf got top honours for his Firefly at the Kolb
> picnic. Top dog Bruce Chestnut proclaimed him the best built Kolb there.
> Congrats Beauford. Bill Futrell recieved the top gun award.
> The great Beauford and I were able to sit down and quaff a few beers
as
> we watched the activities. It was a great time. Tried to get Dondi drunk
on
> Canadian beer later but after one she was pretty well done for the
evening.
> The Thunderbird trailered nice on the open trailer for the 650 Km trip.
Jim
> and Dondi will be surprised to learn it took 7 and a half hours to get
home
> this time driving at posted speeds. They have accused me of going a bit
> fast the last time I went down.
> I even got a couple nice comments on the design and modifications
> I did on my Mk 111. I will be posting photos to the list soon.
> We were witnewss to some good flying and the newest craze seems to be
> gully flying. Thats where the guys dive into the gully beside the strip
and
> come out the other end. A bit of a shocker the first time you see it but
> very neat. I was able to get my bird up three times on the
> weekend.Beautiful country but you sure need to have a good engine. There
is
> no room for engine failures there.
> It was great to be able to put faces to the kolb list names. I watched
a
> drifter and Mk111 take off as we pulled in. That was Pastor Pike and his
> buddy taking off before they were able to say hey.
> I hope all other list members had as good time as I did.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Here are some more Fly-In shots...
----- Original
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Here are some more Fly-In shots...
----- Original
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Ralph,
I called TNK months ago & was told they were discontinuing offering the
kit.
Richard Swiderski
SlingShot
----- Original Message -----
From: <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: SlingShot
>
> Guys,
>
> I have not been to the New Kolb website in quite awhile. I notice the
> Slingshot is not displayed there. Does anyone know if TNK is
> discontinuing the kit? I may be blind, but I can't find anything there
> about this.
>
> http://tnkolbaircraft.com
>
> Ralph Burlingame
> Original Firestar
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>Thanks for the kind words, Woody, but I harbor no illusions about my
>airplane building "skills..." there were lots of prettier airplanes there
>than the "kleenex" Firefly... Woody's among them...
Others thought differently. That's why you got the award. Was mine
judged? Can't really call it a Kolb anymore. They did make me feel welcome
there anyway.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>Brothers, I received 2 or 3 more list messages tonight that have attachments
>that my newly updated virus checker flagged as infected.
>
>During this I "discovered" that Outlook Express does indeed try to open
>attachments as soon as you open the message. So far, I've been unable to
>find the option to turn this off. If anyone else is using that package and
>knows where the option for it is, please let me know.
>
>For anyone else who also uses Outlook Express, BE WARNED!
You're better off using Eudora instead of "Outlook Express" +
Norton. Almost ALL the generic viruses
are set up for "Outlook" - that's why Mac's and the rest of us using
"Eudora"and "Norton" can avoid them.
FireWalls will also help. I use "BlackIce" as a backup for the real
'Pros". - like my kid & CompSciMajors.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com> |
I don't know why Ken's having OE problems, mine doesn't try to open
attachments, I have to double click 'em. My Norton works great, catches all
them bugs. I wouldn't be without it. My .02 worth.
Ed in JXN
MkII/503
----- Original Message -----
From: "possums" <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Virus info
>
>
> >
> >Brothers, I received 2 or 3 more list messages tonight that have
attachments
> >that my newly updated virus checker flagged as infected.
> >
> >During this I "discovered" that Outlook Express does indeed try to open
> >attachments as soon as you open the message. So far, I've been unable to
> >find the option to turn this off. If anyone else is using that package
and
> >knows where the option for it is, please let me know.
> >
> >For anyone else who also uses Outlook Express, BE WARNED!
>
> You're better off using Eudora instead of "Outlook Express" +
> Norton. Almost ALL the generic viruses
> are set up for "Outlook" - that's why Mac's and the rest of us using
> "Eudora"and "Norton" can avoid them.
> FireWalls will also help. I use "BlackIce" as a backup for the real
> 'Pros". - like my kid & CompSciMajors.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
czech-list(at)matronics.com, europa-list(at)matronics.com, ez-list(at)matronics.com,
glasair-list(at)matronics.com, homebuilt-list(at)matronics.com,
kolb-list(at)matronics.com, kr-list(at)matronics.com, lancair-list(at)matronics.com,
pelican-list(at)matronics.com, pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com,
piper-list(at)matronics.com, pitts-list(at)matronics.com,
rocket-list(at)matronics.com, rv4-list(at)matronics.com, rv6-list(at)matronics.com,
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, sonerai-list(at)matronics.com,
tailwind-list(at)matronics.com, ultralight-list(at)matronics.com,
warbird-list(at)matronics.com, yak-list(at)matronics.com,
zenith-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | EAA Chapter 339 Fall Fly-In |
EAA Chapter 339 Fall Fly-In
Saturday, October 19, 2002, Hampton Roads Exec (PVG), Virginia, 9AM till
7PM
Hampton Roads Exec (PVG) is 27nm SW of Norfolk, Virginia (253 radial
?ORF)
AWOS 118.375
CTAF 123.0
The weather will be a perfect Virginia fall day!
Aircraft parking is off taxiway between Rwy 23 and T-Hangars East of
Airport Terminal
Schedule of Events
Fly-In Begins 9AM
Food all Day 10AM ? 3PM
Poker Run (Walk Around Field)
Project Visits on Field
Aircraft Judging 11AM ? 3PM, All Categories, Antiques, Classics,
Homebuilts, Warbirds
Social Hour 4PM
Dinner 5PM ? 7PM, BBQ Sandwiches, Chicken, Drinks
Local motels/hotels are available
For More Information
Frank Toy 757-460-3680
ftoy(at)att.net
Richard Reynolds 757-627-8743
rvreynolds(at)macs.net
EAA Chapter 339
http://home.earthlink.net/~avyator/
Hampton Roads Exec Airport
http://www.hamptonroadsexecutiveairport.com/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | P M Condon <pcondon(at)mitre.org> |
| Subject: | Re: More on new small engines |
Besides the Verner engine there are two relatively new engines on the
market. Check out this months EAA Sport Mag., under the Oshkosh section
and see the little radial and the two cylinder, 4 stroke, slick mag
engine that is now being marketed. Sorry, I am pretending to work here
at work and my magazine is at home so I can't get the names or UrL's or
addresses.........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Hi guys:
A friend send me this url bc. It is a free anti virus
program that his company recently switched to. I have not
used it. I use Norton AV.
http://www.grisoft.com
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Free AV Program |
I have been and still am using it.
The W.32Bugbear virus and the
Opasoft worm A virus got past it.
Open no attachments unless/until you are sure they are clean.
Protect yourself at all times...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Hi guys:
>
>A friend send me this url bc. It is a free anti virus
>program that his company recently switched to. I have not
>used it. I use Norton AV.
>
>http://www.grisoft.com
>
>john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
Vincehallam(at)aol.com wrote:
<< Are you able to post a table of total power plant weights versus power
and make/type ????what is the noisy prop you are using? Are you considering
anything else? Is it TOO noisy at cruise,or at what settigs? Do I have it
right that the verner derived from a half volkswagen? >>
Vince, and List -
My Verner-1400 has a complete installed weight of 164 lbs. That includes
oil cooler, oil lines, oil tank, carbs, exhaust system - everything except
prop. There is a new model of Verner engine availablecalled the
Verner-133M, which is slightly smaller, 2 horsepower less (78hp), gearbox
instead of belt-drive. Has one carb instead of 2, and an advertised weight
of 142 lbs. I have no experience with this new model.
My "noisy" prop is a 72-inch Powerfin 3-blade, but my comment wasn't so much
to say the prop was noisy, but rather it makes more noise than the engine,
which I guess is typical for a pusher. Noise level in the cockpit was fine,
as I wear a helmet with integral headsets. I like my Powerfin
ground-adjustable prop - I have no plans to switch.
The Verner is NOT derived from a half VW - far from it! Here's a bit of
history: Verner began making engines in the early-80s, under contract
(decree??) by the communist Czech govt. There was a need for a small
aircraft engine, and the govt set up a factory for Mr Slavik Verner to
manufacture small, aircooled engines. Shortly afterward, the Iron Curtain
fell. Mr Verner, with a fully-equipped factory on hand and the call of
free-world capitalism beckoning, decided to build & sell engines to the
"outside" world.
Primary engine components are made in-house, like the case, crank and
cylinders. The engine case is a magnesium alloy, for light weight. The
engine uses Mercedes-Benz pistons, rings and con rods; BMW valves, Volksagen
main bearings, and Bing carbs. (Mr Verner was no dummy - he used quality,
commercially-available parts where possible.) So, from a distance, it may
LOOK like a half-VW, but on closer inspection, you'll see that it's indeed a
different engine.
Dennis Kirby
New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Free AV Program |
> I have been and still am using it.
> The W.32Bugbear virus and the
> Opasoft worm A virus got past it.
> Richard Pike
Richard/Gents:
Like I said in my orignal email, I didn't use it. I use
NAV. Never got infected, although NAV has stopped a bushel
basket of those nasty virus.
I don't open any attachment until NAV scans it and tells me
it is clean. Even friends get viruses.
NAV does a complete scan of my computer every night while I
sleep. It also has Live Update which checks each day to see
if Norton has anything new for us. All preprogrammed and
automatic.
Take care,
john h
PS: While at the Kolb Flyin I met our friend with the
Subaru powered Ultrastar, Kevin Jones. Did not get to talk
to him though. He introduced himself during the Saturday
awards presentation. Quite a character. Big tall, with two
hearing aids, and bare foot as a yard dog!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
In between rain showers last night I flew my reduction drive VW powered
MKIII with a 1.71 to 1 reduction ratio. Before the change (1.61 to 1) I
was getting about the same RPM on takeoff or slightly less than the RPM
necessary to cruse at 75 MPH. With the new ratio I'm getting app 3550 on
takeoff and 3400 at 75MPH cruise. I still have a bunch of testing and
tweaking but increasing the reduction ratio allows me to over power the
prop in climb enough that I can get more RPMs in climb than at cruise
which is exactly what I wanted. I had a 1.76 to one reduction ratio that
Gene Smith wanted me to test but the test sprocket had a tooth profile
that caused a nasty vibration that kept me grounded last week.
John did a comparison between the Verner engine and the Rotax 912 so I
will compare the VW.
The VW has a redline but it is close to 7000 RPM and then only limited
by my valve springs. I have resolved to limit my RPMs to 4000 so I guess
my redline is 4000. I shooting for a cruise of 3400 RPM but should be
able to run reliably up to 3800 RPM. The HP is around 80-90 depending on
my RPM. There should be no time limit on the time at any of these power
settings.
>>>The 912S is 100 hp at 5800 rpm for max of 5 minutes. I prop
for 5500 rpm which is max continuous and produces 95 hp.
Again, I get good climb and cruise. Don't need an in-flight
adjustable prop.
What Larry didn't report was, at
cruise power settings, the prop makes much more noise than the engine.
This is true for most of the UL/Lt Plane engine/prop
combinations, especially pushers. Props are always noisier,
unless you run 4 straight stacks out of a 912.<<<<
The lower the prop RPM the lower the noise level. My higher reduction
ratio is even more quiet but the prop is still more than the engine.
My VW has hydraulic valve lifters so no adjustment is required.
912/912S
has hydraulic valves. No adjustment required.
Oil change for my VW every 25 hrs as recommended by Great Planes
Aircraft, 912 every 100 hrs. Automotive VW engines run considerably
longer than 25 hours and they don't have oil filters like my engine has.
If I were on a trip I would think the 50 to 100 hour interval would not
be a problem.
The VW requires no OHC Chain adjustment. 912 uses
gears to drive cam and requires not periodic adjustment.
The VW recommends a compression check every annual inspection. I
haven't
done one on the 912S at nearly 400 hours. Haven't seen a
requirement to check it.
VW Cylinder head bolts recommended retorque after the 1st 25 hours. My
VW expert says leave it alone.
VW spark plugs need to be checked at annual and I would most likely
replace them anyway. 912 replace at 200hrs.
>>>>The last time I looked, the 912 is selling for 10,000.00 MSRP.
Verner also provides exhaust, oil cooler (I think), and some
other equipment that Rotax does not provide with the
purchase of the engine.
Basically, maintenance on the 912 is plugs at 200 hrs, oil
and filter change at 100 hrs. They don't need retorque'ing
and they don't leak water or oil. A very clean engine.>>>>>
The VW is app. The cost of a Rotax 912 assuming $10000. Only time
will tell on the reliability end of things. I have 95hours on my MKIII
with a VW and almost 30 hours with the reduction drive engine. I don't
know how many hours for TBO but I would guess close to 1000 hours at the
RPMs I'm turning but only time will tell. The cost of parts for the
rebuild will be app the same as the cost of a gasket set for a 912. If I
trashed the engine and purchased a brand new one it would cost $3300.00
including shipping.
Look out Rotax.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
I need to proof read better. It should read 50% of the cost of a 912.
Also I figured the weight to be 5-10lbs more than a 912.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
<<<<
The VW is app. The cost of a Rotax 912 assuming $10000. Only time
will tell on the reliability end of things. I have 95hours on my MKIII
with a VW and almost 30 hours with the reduction drive engine. I don't
know how many hours for TBO but I would guess close to 1000 hours at
the
RPMs I'm turning but only time will tell. The cost of parts for the
rebuild will be app the same as the cost of a gasket set for a 912. If
I
trashed the engine and purchased a brand new one it would cost
$3300.00
including shipping.
Look out Rotax.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Grounded - Coolant System Failure on FireFly |
alhart(at)ldd.net
Went up to fly a little before the rains from Lilly got here. Flew about 20 minutes.
When I was pushing the FireFly into the hangar, I noticed coolant on top
of the luggage compartment cover. As I looked around I discovered more here
and there. I got up on my little step stool so I could look at the top of the
engine, and one could feel the heat radiating from the head. Turned the prop
by hand and compression was low, so I have fried the rings.
I have been having trouble with water temperature sensors shorting and pegging
the indicator to the hot side. Before the flight, I cut the leads to the unstable
second one that was installed in the head and wired in a new third sensor
free hanging to see if the indicator would remain stable and pegged cold. It
did and so I found out my indicator is good and my second sensor is bad. And
this was the flight that where I needed both a good sensor and indicator. A
head temperature gage would have been helpful too.
I was fortunate that the engine did not seize. I was cruising at 4500 rpm, and
I guess it got enough cooling from boiling coolant and air cooling so that it
did not seize. Now I will see how difficult it is going to be to get replacement
parts.
There is no obvious point for the leak so I will take my pressure regulator and
air tank up and pressurize the coolant system with air and bubble test it to
find the leak. I suspect it is a crack in on of the stainless steel tubes I used
to get the coolant to and from the radiator. It was a good thing I was flying
around the patch and not far from the airport. The Victor 1 has just about
10 hours on it and it has been running very well. Loss of coolant was not
the fault of the engine. I believe I may have made a poor choice in the use of
light stainless steel tubes. They probably could not withstand the vibration
present.
Earth bound again.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>
>Sorry I missed you. I had the flap motor with me!
>Want me to mail it?
>
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Hang on to it Maybe someone else will have a use for it. It allready is
better travelled than I am and more has been spent mailing it around than
it cost to build :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>
>PS: While at the Kolb Flyin I met our friend with the
>Subaru powered Ultrastar, Kevin Jones. Did not get to talk
>to him though. He introduced himself during the Saturday
>awards presentation. Quite a character. Big tall, with two
>hearing aids, and bare foot as a yard dog!!!
Dang I wish I would have met him to find out more about his conversion.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>Eudora is not exempt from viruses.
>
>
> > >During this I "discovered" that Outlook Express does indeed try to open
> > >attachments as soon as you open the message. So far, I've been unable to
> > >find the option to turn this off. If anyone else is using that package and
> > >knows where the option for it is, please let me know.
> > >
> > >For anyone else who also uses Outlook Express, BE WARNED!
> >
> >You're better off using Eudora
I just meant that at least Eudora doesn't open attachments on its own.
I don't think any mail program should do that.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DHGreenfield" <dhgreenfield(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Does anyone have line drawings of the Kolb Mark III? |
Hello,
I am building a Kolb Mark III. Other planes that I have built I had line
drawings that I could use to try different color combinations as well as
stripes etc. I have been searching for them and cannot find a good
useable file anywhere. I would also like to use it to have hats and
shirts embroidered with the color scheme of my plane.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Doug Greenfield
W: 319-436-7230
H: 319-436-2109
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Does anyone have line drawings of the Kolb Mark |
III?
There is a set of three view drawings in the front of the pictorial
builders manual, but that is all I have ever seen.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P
>
>Hello,
>I am building a Kolb Mark III. Other planes that I have built I had line
>drawings that I could use to try different color combinations as well as
>stripes etc. I have been searching for them and cannot find a good
>useable file anywhere. I would also like to use it to have hats and
>shirts embroidered with the color scheme of my plane.
>Any help would be appreciated.
>Thanks in advance
>
>Doug Greenfield
>
>W: 319-436-7230
>H: 319-436-2109
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Paul W. McMahan ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Paul W. McMahan
Subject: Firestar II Photos
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/PMcinFL@aol.com.10.03.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
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--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Ken Fackler ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Ken Fackler
Subject: How to Create an Aileron Gap Seal...
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/kfackler@ameritech.net.10.03.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
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Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
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o Main Photo Share Index:
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--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Larry Bourne ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Larry Bourne
Subject: Dennis Kirby's Instrument Panel
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/biglar@gogittum.com.A.10.03.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
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Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
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o Main Photo Share Index:
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--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Larry Bourne ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Larry Bourne
Subject: Verner Engine
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/biglar@gogittum.com.B.10.03.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
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--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Larry Bourne ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Larry Bourne
Subject: Big Boy's Toys - Dodge & Kolb
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/biglar@gogittum.com.C.10.03.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
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--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Larry Bourne ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Larry Bourne
Subject: Larry Cottrell's Firestar
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/biglar@gogittum.com.D.10.03.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Beauford Tuton ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Beauford Tuton
Subject: FLY-IN
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/beauford@tampabay.rr.com.10.03.2002/index.html
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry King" <kingxlm(at)woh.rr.com> |
Although this virus stuff if off topic, I thought I would share the following.
I work at a computer help desk and deal with these kind of problems frequently.
Hope the following info helps you guys as much as your knowledge of airplanes
helps me!
For those of you who use Outlook Express; Note that email from the Kolb list doesn't
have a file attachments (none that I can remember anyway). An attachment
is indicated when you see the little paper clip next to the message assuming
your in your inbox view. Mail with out the paper clip does not have the virus
that has been going around. If you see mail with a paper clip, indicating it has
an attachment, don't open the attachment until you scan it for a virus. If
you don't know the person that sent it, or are not expecting any mail with an
attachment from someone you do know. Don't open the attachment. Delete it or virus
scan the attachment first.
Yesterday I found two emails that were sent directly to me and not to the list.
They each had an attachment and the attachments were infected. On casual inspection
they appeared as though they were from the list because of the subject
line. This means that a computer with a virus infection on it found my email address
somewhere in there, maybe the address book or an old email, and sent the
email directly to me, not through the list. The computer owner most likely did
not even know his computer was sending out the infected emails. The virus did
it for him.
Hope this helps.
Larry King
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jimmy <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
Fellow Kolber's,
My Firefly gauges have always had about a 100 Degree difference, the back exhaust
always has read 100 degrees higher than the front cylinder.
After flying today as I checked everything I noticed that the hand of the front
exhaust gauge
temperature in the cool down position was not on the zero position, it was about
1/8th below. The other gauge was on the mark.
Would this make a difference on the temperature reading when flying.
Messages checked by Norton In and Out.
Jimmy Hankinson
912-863-7384
Rocky Ford, Ga. 30455
jhankin(at)planters.net
Kolb Firefly/447
Local field, Pegasus/2000/Grass
Airport JYL/Sylvania, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
>
>Fellow Kolber's,
>
>My Firefly gauges have always had about a 100 Degree difference, the back exhaust
always has read 100 degrees higher than the front cylinder.
>
Jim,
An easy way to find out if the gages are ok, is to swap leads on the gages. If
the back cylinder continues to read 100 degrees high after the lead swap the
indicators are ok. If the high temperature moves to the front cylinder, one of
the indicators is bad.
If the indicators are ok, you may be getting an unbalanced feed from the carburetor.
You might consider rotating your carburetor a little clockwise as you are
looking at the carburetor side of the engine. Fly and see if it helps. If
it is not enough rotate a little more until they come into balance.
I hope this helps.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SIOUX AIR DRILL |
>
>Gents
>I placed an order for MK 3 Extra wing kit at the factory fly-in and that
>has generated some questions for tools.
Any electric drill will work. Do not be tempted to buy fancy tools
because you think you need them to build a KOlb. Buy them if you really
want them. Usually the tools you have are more than adequate. Get a new
hack saw blade and a new file. That is important. Probably best to go to a
yard sale and pick up a $2 iron for the fabric work to keep the little
woman happy. Do things by the plans and don't beef things up because you
think they might fail. Kolb has a good reputation and parts are made
adequately and there have been very few overstressed to the limit failures.
The easy simple way is usually the best way. Have fun building.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Ken Fackler ] : New Email List Photo Share |
Available!
>
>
>
>A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Ken Fackler
>
>
> Subject: How to Create an Aileron Gap Seal...
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/kfackler@ameritech.net.10.03.2002/index.html
Ken - you can only use this method if you use "x-hinges" per the dreaded
FerXXX plans.
They won't work with the Kolb "piano hinges" - sorry.
Yours truly - Possum
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Jones" <kevin-jones(at)snet.net> |
Does anyone know if the guy who won the Mark III at the fly-in wants to sell
it? And if so will he take some low price?
kj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Jones" <kevin-jones(at)snet.net> |
Does anyone know if the guy who won the Mark III at the fly in wants to sell
it? And if so will he take some low price?
kj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Jones" <kevin-jones(at)snet.net> |
Does anyone know if the guy who won the Mark III at the fly in wants to sell
it? And if so will he take some low price?
kj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Broste" <kenandmona(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Does anyone have line drawings of the Kolb Mark III? |
I found a line drawing of the Firestar in the book I received from Kolb on
preparing and registering your aircraft. Let me know if you want the Kolb.
You're right it works great for trying out color schemes/
Ken B.
----- Original Message -----
From: "DHGreenfield" <dhgreenfield(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Does anyone have line drawings of the Kolb Mark III?
>
> Hello,
> I am building a Kolb Mark III. Other planes that I have built I had line
> drawings that I could use to try different color combinations as well as
> stripes etc. I have been searching for them and cannot find a good
> useable file anywhere. I would also like to use it to have hats and
> shirts embroidered with the color scheme of my plane.
> Any help would be appreciated.
> Thanks in advance
>
> Doug Greenfield
>
> W: 319-436-7230
> H: 319-436-2109
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com> |
Hi Kolbers,
I heard on Public Radio (I know, I know) tonight that the Bugbear virus
that's causing so many headaches is actually designed to search for credit
card numbers. Just one more thing we all need to worry about!
Fed-up Ed in JXN
MkII/503
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry King" <kingxlm(at)woh.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Virus Info
>
> Although this virus stuff if off topic, I thought I would share the
following. I work at a computer help desk and deal with these kind of
problems frequently. Hope the following info helps you guys as much as your
knowledge of airplanes helps me!
>
> For those of you who use Outlook Express; Note that email from the Kolb
list doesn't have a file attachments (none that I can remember anyway). An
attachment is indicated when you see the little paper clip next to the
message assuming your in your inbox view. Mail with out the paper clip does
not have the virus that has been going around. If you see mail with a paper
clip, indicating it has an attachment, don't open the attachment until you
scan it for a virus. If you don't know the person that sent it, or are not
expecting any mail with an attachment from someone you do know. Don't open
the attachment. Delete it or virus scan the attachment first.
>
> Yesterday I found two emails that were sent directly to me and not to the
list. They each had an attachment and the attachments were infected. On
casual inspection they appeared as though they were from the list because of
the subject line. This means that a computer with a virus infection on it
found my email address somewhere in there, maybe the address book or an old
email, and sent the email directly to me, not through the list. The computer
owner most likely did not even know his computer was sending out the
infected emails. The virus did it for him.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Larry King
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Ken Fackler ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
>>> Ken - you can only use this method if you use "x-hinges"
Dear Possum:
When I spoke with Jim about this, he indicated that one needn't seal the
area around the hinges and I'm not planning to. However, I don't understand
why tape won't stick to the wings or ailerons regardless of what type of
hinge I'm using?
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net> |
I was infected with the bugbear virus in spite of having a current updated
Norton Anti-Virus program. It caught some of the infected email that seemed
Kolb related, but apparently I became infected from others it missed. I
don't remember opening any attachments either.
Go to:
http://www.symantec.com/ and download and run the removal tool (bottom left
hand corner of the screen).
The virus had disabled the NAV (Norton Anti-Virus) program. While trying to
install live updates, it would abort the process before it finished. It
seemed to time-out and make the program disappear while I was trying to use
it, so I have already ordered a new edition of NAV, which probably wasn't
necessary. Since I ran the removal tool, the NAV seems to work fine.
I was at the fly-in for awhile. It was good to see Steven Green and meet
Bill Futrell. I thought the atmosphere from the Kolb people was very
inviting.
Clay Stuart
building Mark IIIXtra #21 (original model)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> carries are 3/8". Anyone know where I can get a hand full of 1/2" X 1/8th"
> stainless?
>
> Dale Sellers
Dale/Gents:
New Kolb Aircraft
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Ken Fackler ] : New Email List Photo Share |
Available!
>
> >>> Ken - you can only use this method if you use "x-hinges"
>
>Dear Possum:
>
>When I spoke with Jim about this, he indicated that one needn't seal the
>area around the hinges and I'm not planning to. However, I don't understand
>why tape won't stick to the wings or ailerons regardless of what type of
>hinge I'm using?
>
>-Ken Fackler
>Mark II / 503
>Rochester MI
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/kfackler@ameritech.net.10.03.2002/index.html
It will stick to the rear spar and the ailerons the way you have it drawn
until you move the stick - then it will tear away because of the way the
piano hinges work on the Kolb verses the way the "x-hinges" work on the
Ferguson. You would have to see how the ailerons move on a Kolb to understand
what I'm talking about - they're not centered.
Your's truly Possum .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Check on line, I bough a bunch from I believe fastinal?? something like that.
Any good fastner place should have them in bulk, I bought mine by the bag of
100's cheap that way. Locally of course would save shipping.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neitzel" <neitzel(at)newnorth.net> |
Fastenal is also on line at www.fastenal.com. Great selection of rivets and a huge variety of other fasteners. I also found an unusual electrical switch that I needed.
Hope this helps you find what you need.
Dick Neitzel
Sayner WI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Kolbers,
I am still looking for a good used 582, 532, 0r 618 engine. If you know of one
please contact me off list or call at 704-510-1440.
Jim
Mark III
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Ken Fackler ] : New Email List Photo Share |
Available!
>
>
> All you have to do is place your ailerons in the "worst position",
> that is, a
>position that has the most movement from the trailing edge and apply the
>tape so
>that there is a slight bit of slack in it. Do that and it won't "tear away."
>
> Then, you can put any kind of gap seal you wish.
>
> Been there, had them all, like the one shown in the recent photos best.
>
> X hinges sure are nice!
With "x-hinges" this "gap seal system" works GREAT. Not only on the
ailerons, but
on the rudder, etc. I have them on my Possumobile! It stays tight all the
time.
It is easy to install and paint, and last as long as aircraft fabric can
last. There it "No slack" or
stretch in the system with - up or down movement - BUT - IT ALSO TAKES 3
EXTRA DAYS TO
DO THE "X-HINGES". In other words you will waste at least 3 days if you
label all the parts right.
However - I repeat - this "gap seal system" will not work on the "Kolb
Piano Hinge" system or they would have
never had to use the "book binding tape" or the "V fold system" or whatever
system they
have to use to make the "Kolb Piano Hinge" work.
Now I don't recommend that everybody that has never built a Kolb start trying
to re-invent the wheel. I have spent more time on this kind of stuff and
even "I" have reservations
about telling new builders to change the "Kolb Plans". Kolbs fly better than
anything on the market - PERIOD. Only those that are building they're 2nd
or 3'rd
plane need to mess with the hinges. I'm almost sorry I brought it up.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Gap seals with tape |
Possum/Kolbers:
I spent a good bit of time tinkering on the Mark II this evening while
waiting for the tail end of this hurricane to blow through. As part of that,
I did some test lay-ups with the tape for the aileron gap seals.
I "discovered" what most of you probably already know. To wit, that you need
to get the ailerons in the fully, fully, and I mean fully deflected position
before you put on the tape. I expected and anticipated that, but what
surprised me was that it turned out the tape has the most distance to cover
when the ailerons are down!
It seems counterintuitive to me. When you look at how Jim Miller recommended
running the tape, it would appear that deflecting them up would cause the
tape to be pulled, much like a roll of film would be. But the uneven
deflection apparently overrides this "common sense" situation.
As long as I used a bungee to pulll stick fully over before applying the
tape, I could then move the ailerons to any position and there was always
more or less a bit of gap in the tap.
Now if I can just figure how to neatly do the job. Putting that tape
together sticky-to-sticky and keeping it from tangling up and going all
catty-wampus is hard! Anybody got any wisdom on that they'd care to share?
-Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duncan McBride <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gap seals with tape |
The idea of trying to put the tape on while the wings are on the plane
sounds near-impossible to me. I had my wings off, leaning against my
workbench with the leading edge resting on pads on the floor. I rigged
some braces to hold the aileron and flap in the right position and was able
to place the tape on pretty easy. The 3M tape was quick and easy, but I
can't say how it will hold up - haven't flown yet, much less had the plane
out in the weather. And since I have it on my plane, I can say it looks a
little crude. No matter how careful I was, there are bubbles under the
tape. When I look at it, I'm glad it's ready to fly, but I wish it looked
better.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Gap seals with tape
>
> Possum/Kolbers:
>
> I spent a good bit of time tinkering on the Mark II this evening while
> waiting for the tail end of this hurricane to blow through. As part of
that,
> I did some test lay-ups with the tape for the aileron gap seals.
>
> I "discovered" what most of you probably already know. To wit, that you
need
> to get the ailerons in the fully, fully, and I mean fully deflected
position
> before you put on the tape. I expected and anticipated that, but what
> surprised me was that it turned out the tape has the most distance to
cover
> when the ailerons are down!
>
> It seems counterintuitive to me. When you look at how Jim Miller
recommended
> running the tape, it would appear that deflecting them up would cause the
> tape to be pulled, much like a roll of film would be. But the uneven
> deflection apparently overrides this "common sense" situation.
>
> As long as I used a bungee to pulll stick fully over before applying the
> tape, I could then move the ailerons to any position and there was always
> more or less a bit of gap in the tap.
>
> Now if I can just figure how to neatly do the job. Putting that tape
> together sticky-to-sticky and keeping it from tangling up and going all
> catty-wampus is hard! Anybody got any wisdom on that they'd care to share?
>
> -Ken
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Ken Fackler ] : New Email List Photo |
ShareAvailable!
>
>possums wrote:
>
> >
> > - BUT - IT ALSO TAKES 3 EXTRA DAYS TO DO THE "X-HINGES". In other
> words you will
> > waste at least 3 days if you label all the parts right.
>
>There's a lot of different ways to skin a cat and each way has advantages and
>disadvantages. I put the X hinges on "My Mistress" because I don't like
>rivets in
>tension- a application they were not intended to be used in. It didn't
>take 3
>days- more like a half day- and I wouldn't call it 'wasting time.'
Oh - I'm not picking on you, I used x-hinges on my plane - wings, rudder,
elevator.
Just another hint, since you've already decided to use them.
If you ever take them off - assuming that they are already drilled and
held on with clecos or alum rivets - be very careful how you label them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
| Subject: | Gap seals with tape |
Ken,
I did the tape sticky-to-sticky the first time and it was a pain. Now when
I need to replace a section of tape I remove the old tape, clean off any
adhesive residue, apply a new section of tape on the bottom without doing
the sticky-to-sticky thing, then sprinkle a bit of baby powder on the
exposed adhesive, blow it around a bit and your done in no time.
Terry
Now if I can just figure how to neatly do the job. Putting that tape
together sticky-to-sticky and keeping it from tangling up and going all
catty-wampus is hard! Anybody got any wisdom on that they'd care to share?
-Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: [ Ken Fackler ] : New Email List Photo |
ShareAvailable!
| From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
10/5/02 3:39Ken Korenek
> I've had both the flat piano style hinges and the X-hinges. I would not ever
> use the flat style again and would gladly expend the extra time it takes to
> install
> them.
=======================
Indepenently from this thread I have been looking for a different way to do
the hinges. The X hinge arrengement has the benafit of self aligning,
something which I like. I am fairly certain that in the next few days as I
get to do the ailron hinges I'll choose to go with the X hinge. I don't
think its the ideal hinge, but I am reasonably convinced that it is better
then the single hinge, which has proven to be adequate, thus no criticism is
intendent. I certainly would like to find somewhere a purpose built self
cenering hinge but I have seen none at A/S or Wag Aero.
Ron(FHU)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>Where do you guys get these X hinges? Kirk
I'm gonna regret this but:
There are drawings and instructions on how to built
these X hinges.
I don't have all the drawings scanned - besides they're
not my drawings, but I'll ask.
http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/HINGESML.jpg
They sure make the gap seals look and work better - they always stay
tight and are made out of finishing tape - so you can paint them.
http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/Xhingestrailingedge.jpg
Instructions - "Example" - from the book:::
Aileron Hinges "page 23 -sheet 6"
First, cut every other segment off hinge so hinge can be doubled into an
"X" configuration per Drawing, Sheet 6. Now fabricate hinge installation
tool per Drawing, Sheet 6. Wing and aileron will need to be on level saw
horses. You should also capture wing rear spar and aileron torque tube with
two blocks, one on top of rear spar and torque tube and one on bottom with
"C" clamps at three positions - one near OB and IB ends and one in the
middle. Keep blocks level or you may move wing and aileron so a level saw
horse is always under or near position where hinge is being installed. Use
hinge positioning tool to space wing rear spar and torque tube and to
position hinge. Double check your hinge tool by clamping hinge in place
then trying tool on opposite side. Dril1 hinges after laying out rivet
pattern per drawing by holding them in place with clecos or clamps. Hinges
will need to be removed later to cover wing and aileron with fabric, so be
sure to identify hinge positions. etc. etc. etc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gap seals with tape |
>
>
>Now if I can just figure how to neatly do the job. Putting that tape
>together sticky-to-sticky and keeping it from tangling up and going all
>catty-wampus is hard! Anybody got any wisdom on that they'd care to share?
>
>-Ken
As most members know I am not the kind of guy to do every thing by the
book. I will modify when I see a problem or want to try a more artistic
approach or an aerodynamic experiment. However since ailerons falling off
does not seem to be a problem on Kolbs I saw no reason to improve on Dennis
and Homers hinge design. I have never done the book binding tape method on
gap seals as I have had no problems doing it by the book and using dacron
tape. Fast, simple, looks good and just like me it's cheap. Don't reinvent
the wheel unless it is broken or you have a better and easier way..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
I used structural adehesive to
> make the gussets more rigid by bonding to the spar.
> Ron (FHU)
Ron/Gang:
Why do that? The other end of the drag strut is attached
with a 1/4" bolt in shear at the inboard rib. The
attachment to the main spar is an over kill already.
I landed my brand new Mark III on the left wing tip, after
going through a very large red oak tree. Main spar, drag
strut remained intact. I mean I landed on the left wing
tip, wing perpendicular to the red clay surface of Elmore
County, Alabama.
I learned from Homer Kolb and Dennis Souder, there is always
a weakest link. We reinforce one thing, then the next
weakest thing is gonna break. To start modifying, to
improve on the designer's airplane, one must take a look at
the entire structure in order to do it right. I also
learned this from the experience of making many mistakes.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Davis" <scrounge(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cape Cod Kolb |
Jim If you were in Chatham and the Kolb was red white and blue with stars on
the tail ti was mine . It is not a mk3 its a fire star KXP with a single
carb 503 . I have 493 hrs on the air frame and 3 hrs on a Lockwood aviation
rebuild . It maybe for sale if I can stand to part with, as I am building a
europa motorglider and need money for the final kit. Chris Davis west
chatham . cape cod ma.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Cape Cod Kolb
>
> Listers,
>
> I was in Chatham, Mass on Cape Cod this weekend and I saw a Kolb Mark III.
Someone said it was moved from Provincetown while they renovate that
airport.
>
> Anyone know whose Kolb it is?
>
> Jim Mark III
> Charlotte, NC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cape Cod Kolb |
..jusy saw your reply about your kolb i fly a firestar out of cranland
airport in hanson ma bob wilkie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
Just my luck. Even though I did'nt open ant attachments, a friend spent 4 hrs
trying to fix my computer infected by virus, some how sent through e-mail
appearing to be associated with the kolb list . Ended up reinstalling windows
98.
Be careful
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: X hinges & Gap Seals. |
> I do have a question about the gap seals though. Do the plans call for it?
> Ron (FHU)
Ron/Gents:
They did the last time I built a Kolb, 1991/92. Can not
speak for present day Kolbs.
I understand Kolbs do not fly well without them.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: X hinges & Gap Seals. |
> > I do have a question about the gap seals though. Do the plans call for
it?
> > Ron (FHU)
> I understand Kolbs do not fly well without them.
> john h
I'm flying my Mark II without them. The plane handles and flies pretty well.
I would say that it would be nice to have more top end speed and a lower
stall speed, both of which I understand are likely effects of putting the
gap seals on.
Other than allowing for the slightly higher stall speed, I'd say that if my
plane is any indication that Kolbs fly fine without them. Bear in mind,
anyone who reads this, I didn't build the plane and I've only had it a
couple of months and flown it about 10 hours so far. However, all of that
time was without aileron gap seals.
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry King" <kingxlm(at)woh.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Software Updates |
If any of you are running McAfee anti-virus you can check the page
www.nai.com for McAfee specific information on the latest viruses. They tell
how to remove the thing and they tell what it does. This is helpful even if
you don't run McAfee. They also make mention that the virus takes advantage
of "holes" in your software. The way to fix the holes is to get the updates.
By updating Internet Explorer to version 6 with Service Pack 1 you
automatically get an update for Outlook Express. The updates will do plenty
to help prevent some of these new viruses from being allowed to open
automatically when you view an email. Also be sure to turn off the default
setting that opens and previews mail as you go through your inbox list of
new mail.
To turn off preview in Outlook Express, click VIEW, then LAYOUT. Remove the
check mark from "Show Preview Pane".
The latest version of Outlook Express is 6.00.2800.1106. Click on Help, then
About Microsoft Outlook Express to see your version number.
Go to www.microsoft.com and download "Internet Explorer 6 Service Pack 1" to
get all the updates in one download.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "S Ferkey" <sferkey(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | 3 Kolb Lasers for sale |
3 Kolb Lasers For Sale or Trade: I purchased these three Low Wing, two place side
by side planes from Kolb two years ago after they decided to hold off on puting
them into full production. One of the planes is the red one most of us saw
Dennis Souder flying at Sun N' Fun and in the Kolb video as well as in the
feature story of Kit Planes. I also have the white powder coated Laser fusalage
we've all seen at Sun N' Fun and Oshkosh complete with center section, cowling,
canopy, ect. Finally, I have a third identical Laser complete fusalage,
tail feathers, and miscellaneous parts. My career will no longer afford me the
time to dedicate to puting these planes in the air so I am selling all three
of them together for a total asking price of $14,800. I am selling the planes
as I bought them, less engine and instruments and "for parts" to avoid any liability
issues. I have the Kolb Laser Video as well as most of the Laser literature
and specifications. I will also consider trades, aviation related or
not. Please contact Sheldon Ferkey at my email address sferkey(at)charter.net or
at my phone number 715-887-4363 or 715-421-3500.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <sudlow77(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3 Kolb Lasers for sale |
Very interesting. Why wasn't the Laser ever put into production? Anybody
know?
----- Original Message -----
From: "S Ferkey" <sferkey(at)charter.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: 3 Kolb Lasers for sale
>
> 3 Kolb Lasers For Sale or Trade: I purchased these three Low Wing, two
place side by side planes from Kolb two years ago after they decided to hold
off on puting them into full production. One of the planes is the red one
most of us saw Dennis Souder flying at Sun N' Fun and in the Kolb video as
well as in the feature story of Kit Planes. I also have the white powder
coated Laser fusalage we've all seen at Sun N' Fun and Oshkosh complete with
center section, cowling, canopy, ect. Finally, I have a third identical
Laser complete fusalage, tail feathers, and miscellaneous parts. My career
will no longer afford me the time to dedicate to puting these planes in the
air so I am selling all three of them together for a total asking price of
$14,800. I am selling the planes as I bought them, less engine and
instruments and "for parts" to avoid any liability issues. I have the Kolb
Laser Video as well as most of the Laser literature and specifications. I
will also consider tr!
> ades, aviation related or not. Please contact Sheldon Ferkey at my email
address sferkey(at)charter.net or at my phone number 715-887-4363 or
715-421-3500.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Hinge Alert !!! (Crimped Ends) |
Folks,
The following post appeared on the Fly-UL List. It pertains to the
practice of crimping the ends of hinges to hold the hinge pin and result of
doing so. This method has been discussed on the Kolb list but because of
the this person experience I thought it should be brought to your attention
since it could result in a in-flight control failure.
jerb
>X-Sender: jc.hilbert(at)cox.net
>X-Apparently-To: fly-ul(at)yahoogroups.com
>To: fly-ul(at)yahoogroups.com
>From: "chadhilbert" <jc.hilbert(at)cox.net>
>Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 21:13:47 -0000
>Subject: UL: Fwd: Hinge Alert !!!
>
>--- In Titanaircraft@y..., "chadhilbert" wrote:
>While flying today, Nick lost the hinge-pin from the out-board left
>aileron hinge. Fortunatley, the aileron didn't get caught in the
>slipstream and get bent back, or ripped off. Nick was able to make
>an uneventfull landing at a nearby airport for repairs.
>
>What appears to have happened, over a period of time, the hinge pin
>wears against the end of the hinge that has been "crimped", and the
>small "crimp" area itself broke off, leaving the hole wide open for
>the hinge pin to come out. Nick has 336 hrs on his Titan. We heard
>a couple of years ago that this happened to a Titan in Atlanta, and
>ever since have been diligent in checking the hinge pins during pre-
>flight. Aparently, that isn't enough. We are going to put a small
>drop of "5 Min Epoxy" into the hole at the end of each hinge to act
>as a stop for the hinge pins.
>
>Any other ideas?
>
>Chad
>P.S. Check your hinge pins carefully
>--- End forwarded message ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Herren" <wmdherren(at)hotmail.com> |
>
>I landed my brand new Mark III on the left wing tip, after
>going through a very large red oak tree. Main spar, drag
>strut remained intact. I mean I landed on the left wing
>tip, wing perpendicular to the red clay surface of Elmore
>County, Alabama.
>
>I learned from Homer Kolb and Dennis Souder, there is always
>a weakest link. We reinforce one thing, then the next
>weakest thing is gonna break. To start modifying, to
>improve on the designer's airplane, one must take a look at
>the entire structure in order to do it right. I also
>learned this from the experience of making many mistakes.
>Take care,
>john h
There has been talk in the past about MKIIIs having a heavy left or right
wing. When I flew with John at TNK I reached over and took the stick since
it was almost in the same position that the UltraStar stick is in anyway. I
couldn't find anything in the handling to squawk about and I let go and the
wings stayed level. Of course Miss P'fer has had more practice flying than
most (read that any) other MKIIIs.
Thanks for the ride in a great aircraft John. Bill in Lousyana
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Weber" <bweber2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hinge Alert !!! (Crimped Ends) |
On mine I epoxied a piece of toothpick into each end of the hinge. Never
even a hint of a problem.
----- Original Message -----
From: jerb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Hinge Alert !!! (Crimped Ends)
>
> Folks,
> The following post appeared on the Fly-UL List. It pertains to the
> practice of crimping the ends of hinges to hold the hinge pin and result
of
> doing so. This method has been discussed on the Kolb list but because of
> the this person experience I thought it should be brought to your
attention
> since it could result in a in-flight control failure.
> jerb
>
> >X-Sender: jc.hilbert(at)cox.net
> >X-Apparently-To: fly-ul(at)yahoogroups.com
> >To: fly-ul(at)yahoogroups.com
> >From: "chadhilbert" <jc.hilbert(at)cox.net>
> >Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 21:13:47 -0000
> >Subject: UL: Fwd: Hinge Alert !!!
> >
> >--- In Titanaircraft@y..., "chadhilbert" wrote:
> >While flying today, Nick lost the hinge-pin from the out-board left
> >aileron hinge. Fortunatley, the aileron didn't get caught in the
> >slipstream and get bent back, or ripped off. Nick was able to make
> >an uneventfull landing at a nearby airport for repairs.
> >
> >What appears to have happened, over a period of time, the hinge pin
> >wears against the end of the hinge that has been "crimped", and the
> >small "crimp" area itself broke off, leaving the hole wide open for
> >the hinge pin to come out. Nick has 336 hrs on his Titan. We heard
> >a couple of years ago that this happened to a Titan in Atlanta, and
> >ever since have been diligent in checking the hinge pins during pre-
> >flight. Aparently, that isn't enough. We are going to put a small
> >drop of "5 Min Epoxy" into the hole at the end of each hinge to act
> >as a stop for the hinge pins.
> >
> >Any other ideas?
> >
> >Chad
> >P.S. Check your hinge pins carefully
> >--- End forwarded message ---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bill-jo" <bill-jo(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hinge Alert !!! (Crimped Ends) |
I drilled a hole in mine and put a A/N cotter pin in each end. Which
also makes it easy to remove if you need to.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Weber <bweber2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Hinge Alert !!! (Crimped Ends)
>
> On mine I epoxied a piece of toothpick into each end of the hinge. Never
> even a hint of a problem.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: jerb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
> To: Kolb List
> Subject: Kolb-List: Hinge Alert !!! (Crimped Ends)
>
>
> >
> > Folks,
> > The following post appeared on the Fly-UL List. It pertains to the
> > practice of crimping the ends of hinges to hold the hinge pin and result
> of
> > doing so. This method has been discussed on the Kolb list but because
of
> > the this person experience I thought it should be brought to your
> attention
> > since it could result in a in-flight control failure.
> > jerb
> >
> > >X-Sender: jc.hilbert(at)cox.net
> > >X-Apparently-To: fly-ul(at)yahoogroups.com
> > >To: fly-ul(at)yahoogroups.com
> > >From: "chadhilbert" <jc.hilbert(at)cox.net>
> > >Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 21:13:47 -0000
> > >Subject: UL: Fwd: Hinge Alert !!!
> > >
> > >--- In Titanaircraft@y..., "chadhilbert" wrote:
> > >While flying today, Nick lost the hinge-pin from the out-board left
> > >aileron hinge. Fortunatley, the aileron didn't get caught in the
> > >slipstream and get bent back, or ripped off. Nick was able to make
> > >an uneventfull landing at a nearby airport for repairs.
> > >
> > >What appears to have happened, over a period of time, the hinge pin
> > >wears against the end of the hinge that has been "crimped", and the
> > >small "crimp" area itself broke off, leaving the hole wide open for
> > >the hinge pin to come out. Nick has 336 hrs on his Titan. We heard
> > >a couple of years ago that this happened to a Titan in Atlanta, and
> > >ever since have been diligent in checking the hinge pins during pre-
> > >flight. Aparently, that isn't enough. We are going to put a small
> > >drop of "5 Min Epoxy" into the hole at the end of each hinge to act
> > >as a stop for the hinge pins.
> > >
> > >Any other ideas?
> > >
> > >Chad
> > >P.S. Check your hinge pins carefully
> > >--- End forwarded message ---
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 10/06/02 2 stroke oil |
There has been plenty of talk on the list in the past about what oil we are
all using, in our 2 strokes. What ever each of us are using is fine with me.
I don't really care. What I do want, is to pass along what "Kerry" (the top
repair guy at Lockwood Aviation) mentioned to me on the phone a couple days
ago. During our conversation, he asked, "what oil are you using?". I proudly
answered, Pennzoil . Then he says, " as much as I have always liked
Pennzoil, I CANNOT BELIEVE what I am seeing inside these engines that are
running YAMALUBE !!! I said "regular motorcycle oil." He says "yes."
I never heard of Yamalube before, so I'm definiatly not trying to be a
sales person, just passing along what he told me.
I did look up Yamalube in search and there are several kinds, such as 2-m
4-m 2-s 2-r. Not sure which is the proper one to use. If no one on the
list knows, I can check back with him on that.
Fly safe
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Hinge Alert !!! (Crimped Ends) |
I drilled the end of each hinge and installed safety wire. These wires
when twisted and cut short hold the hinge pins in place, don't move or
vibrate so they should not ware out or fall out. The price is right.
They are removed by cutting them off.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
>>> ulflyer(at)airmail.net 10/06/02 10:52PM >>>
Folks,
The following post appeared on the Fly-UL List. It pertains to the
practice of crimping the ends of hinges to hold the hinge pin and
result of
doing so. This method has been discussed on the Kolb list but because
of
the this person experience I thought it should be brought to your
attention
since it could result in a in-flight control failure.
jerb
>X-Sender: jc.hilbert(at)cox.net
>X-Apparently-To: fly-ul(at)yahoogroups.com
>To: fly-ul(at)yahoogroups.com
>From: "chadhilbert" <jc.hilbert(at)cox.net>
>Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 21:13:47 -0000
>Subject: UL: Fwd: Hinge Alert !!!
>
>--- In Titanaircraft@y..., "chadhilbert" wrote:
>While flying today, Nick lost the hinge-pin from the out-board left
>aileron hinge. Fortunatley, the aileron didn't get caught in the
>slipstream and get bent back, or ripped off. Nick was able to make
>an uneventfull landing at a nearby airport for repairs.
>
>What appears to have happened, over a period of time, the hinge pin
>wears against the end of the hinge that has been "crimped", and the
>small "crimp" area itself broke off, leaving the hole wide open for
>the hinge pin to come out. Nick has 336 hrs on his Titan. We heard
>a couple of years ago that this happened to a Titan in Atlanta, and
>ever since have been diligent in checking the hinge pins during pre-
>flight. Aparently, that isn't enough. We are going to put a small
>drop of "5 Min Epoxy" into the hole at the end of each hinge to act
>as a stop for the hinge pins.
>
>Any other ideas?
>
>Chad
>P.S. Check your hinge pins carefully
>--- End forwarded message ---
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hinge Alert !!! (Crimped Ends) |
| From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
10/7/02 4:11bill-jo
> I drilled a hole in mine and put a A/N cotter pin in each end. Which
> also makes it easy to remove if you need to.
===========================
That is what I have done also. I use safety wire instead.
Ron(FHU)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
Richard and guys
Sorry if I was not clear on my previous post. Kerry, at Lockwood
Aviation, said he was amased at how well the engines ( that were using
Yamalube) looked, when he took them apart on the bench. As I said before, he
always liked Pennzoil, but cannot believe what he is seeing, as a result of
using Yamalube. He did'nt go into detail, but anyone could give him a call if
they wanted more info.
Lockwoods repair line is -- 863-655-6229
Fly safe
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
Where are the serial numbers of Rotax engines usually located?
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Serial numbers |
>
>Where are the serial numbers of Rotax engines usually located?
>
>-Ken Fackler
>Mark II / 503
>Rochester MI
>
Ken,
On my 447 it was located on hand starter end on a little plate mounted up high
on the front of the engine and over the coils and to the side of the cooling air
inlet for the fan.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Shielded spark plug wires |
Kolbers:
Does anyone here know of a source where I can buy shielded plug wires for the Rotax
that are already made, that is, ready to just install and go? All I've been
able to find so far are the parts for making same.
Thanks!
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)sgmmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wright Flyer |
Group,
Here is an address that works by clicking it:
http://dpa.xtn.net/index.php?table=news&template=news.view.subscriber&newsid=92745
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
10/08/2002 08:23:51 AM
I used Yamalube2 to keep a 100cc Yamaha go cart engine together on my first
Teratorn weight shift glider. It ran wide open all the time or you were
landing. No problems with buildup in that engine.
Who's going to call Kerry at Lockwood? No sense having several of us call.
I will call if nobody else has/cares to. Here's a start on the question
list, add to it if you wish, I will call tomorrow:
Which engines have you observed the Yamalube used in?
Injection or premix?
Ratio if premixed?
What exactly impressed you about Yamalube? Wear reduction? Buildup? Ease
of deposit removal?
Which Yamalube model number?
Do you sell Yamalube?
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Shielded spark plug wires |
Ken,
I donn't know of a source, but I did use shielding over my cables and
coil. On a later engine, because I was just lazy, I tried using only
resistor plugs. It worked great. You still need to shield the wire to the
ignition switch(es). ...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Shielded spark plug wires
>
> Kolbers:
>
> Does anyone here know of a source where I can buy shielded plug wires for
the Rotax that are already made, that is, ready to just install and go? All
I've been able to find so far are the parts for making same.
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Ken Fackler
> Mark II / 503
> Rochester MI
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
I'm trying to work the bugs out of my 582 and hope to tap into the
infinite wisdom of the list.
!. There is still an air bubble in both oil feed lines to the carbs. I
have a couple hours on it now and the bubbles are still there. Is this
normal. I am running oil in my gas untill I get this straightened out.
2. Oil is still coming out of the gear box oil cap. There seems to be a
hose barb on top of the filler cap. Should this be blocked or routed to a
catch bottle?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Weber" <bweber2(at)earthlink.net> |
I think running it wide open had more to do with the lack of deposits than
the oil you used.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Gerken <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Yamalube
>
> I used Yamalube2 to keep a 100cc Yamaha go cart engine together on my
first
> Teratorn weight shift glider. It ran wide open all the time or you were
> landing. No problems with buildup in that engine.
>
> Who's going to call Kerry at Lockwood? No sense having several of us
call.
> I will call if nobody else has/cares to. Here's a start on the question
> list, add to it if you wish, I will call tomorrow:
>
>
> Which engines have you observed the Yamalube used in?
>
> Injection or premix?
>
> Ratio if premixed?
>
> What exactly impressed you about Yamalube? Wear reduction? Buildup?
Ease
> of deposit removal?
>
> Which Yamalube model number?
>
> Do you sell Yamalube?
>
>
> Jim Gerken
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Warp Drive Composite Propellers |
http://www.warpdriveprops.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cal" <cgreen01(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | firestar for sale |
If anyone is looking for a nice firestar there's one on e-bay.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
Years ago I worked in a bike shop and here's how we got the bubbles out:
pull the oil line cable to increase the oil pump to max. Now run the engine
up to speed and the pump will go nuts and really move some oil. Just a
couple minutes will do it if it's going to do. Might work, if not, you just
blew some smoke.
Gear box: don't block it, it has to let pressure out or you'll blow a seal.
A film canister makes a good catch tank. Or you can buy a newer type of cap
that doesn't leak oil, but vents air.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> I'm trying to work the bugs out of my 582 and hope to tap into the
>infinite wisdom of the list.
> !. There is still an air bubble in both oil feed lines to the carbs. I
>have a couple hours on it now and the bubbles are still there. Is this
>normal. I am running oil in my gas untill I get this straightened out.
>2. Oil is still coming out of the gear box oil cap. There seems to be a
>hose barb on top of the filler cap. Should this be blocked or routed to a
>catch bottle?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
Woody/Gents:
Make sure you did not overfill the gear box. Saw a guy do that once during
breakin.
Not sure but I think he filled it up to the top inspection plug, when in fact
it should have been filled to the lower inspection plug.
Check out your book, or the one on like at Kodiak.
Anyhow, this guy's Cherokee was pretty much rust proofed when he found out his
mistake.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cal" <cgreen01(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Firestar for sale |
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item1867375501
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 16 Msgs - 10/08/02 |
In a message dated 10/9/02 2:50:57 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
> . Oil is still coming out of the gear box oil cap.
Woody, My 618 came with a 2" tall black plastic vent on top of the gear box,
that leaked quite a bit. If you have that, replace it with the newer vent,
round, metal, about 3/4" tall. Mine never leaked after changing vents.
Fly Safe
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <sudlow77(at)earthlink.net> |
Woody,
don't know about the oil line bubbles, but on the gear box oil blowing out,
you ned to level the cage & engine, and let the oil weep out of the hole on
the side of the gear box until it won't weep anymore - mine took about 3
hours. When that's done it shouldn't blow extra oil out of there anymore.
Cap vent needs to remain open, I think you have just a bit too much gear oil
in there.
chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: 582
>
>
> I'm trying to work the bugs out of my 582 and hope to tap into the
> infinite wisdom of the list.
> !. There is still an air bubble in both oil feed lines to the carbs. I
> have a couple hours on it now and the bubbles are still there. Is this
> normal. I am running oil in my gas untill I get this straightened out.
> 2. Oil is still coming out of the gear box oil cap. There seems to be a
> hose barb on top of the filler cap. Should this be blocked or routed to a
> catch bottle?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II for sale |
I also have my Firestar II for sale ($9,500) and a custom enclosed trailer
($4,500). You can view it on the Kolb member projects page. Recent first
flight at the Kolb fly-in.
PMc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gherkins Tim-rp3420 <rp3420(at)motorola.com> |
| Subject: | Firestar II for sale |
Paul/Kolbers,
I enjoyed looking at your first flight pictures on the Matronics photoshare. Viewing
those pictures sure keeps the fire lit under my Firestar II project.
Though, when you announce that you want to sell your newly completed and flown
Firestar it makes me wonder why?
Does it not perform as expected?
I noticed with John Williamson's newly completed Kolbra he also has it for sale
as well?
I'm just wondering if there is a "let down" or some kind of anticlimactic feeling
after scheming, dreaming, building and then flying your plane.
It's none of my business what you need the funds for, but I can see if you want
to raise money for another 2 to 4 place plane project. Or, maybe your just not
that impressed with flight in general or with Kolb planes?
Puzzled,
Tim
PS- Paul Im not picking on you, I see this with many builders, Im hoping for many
replies from the group.
-----Original Message-----
From: PMcinFL(at)aol.com [mailto:PMcinFL(at)aol.com]
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Firestar II for sale
I also have my Firestar II for sale ($9,500) and a custom enclosed trailer
($4,500). You can view it on the Kolb member projects page. Recent first
flight at the Kolb fly-in.
PMc
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II for sale |
Tim,
The airplane performed and handled wonderfully. I am a GA pilot who flies
mostly for my business with few pleasure flights. Flying the Firestar II was
a great pleasure but one I would infrequently get to enjoy. It is very
stable, good manners and performs great.
Some people collect stamps, I like to build things. When I purchased the kit
it was my intention (with some prodding by my wife) to build it, acheive the
satisfaction of first flight and sell it.
Also I need the money to sell my current GA craft and buy a faster one. I
have precious little time these days and need to get from here to there
faster.
Don't be discouraged, for you will love, as I did, the quality and
performance of the Kolb. What a thrill ride!
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lloyd O'Dell" <wander10(at)infi.net> |
| Subject: | Serial numbers on Firestars |
I purchased a Firestar II kit in Jan. 2002 with the serial number listed
as F-1142 on the Bill of Sale, and that number was stamped onto the
cage. This kit was originally sold by Kolb on March 16, 1995. I
purchased the kit from the second owner.
I tried to register this plane with the FAA and was informed that as
of Oct.1, 1998 the FAA would not register a plane without an original
Bill of Sale from the kit manufacturer to the first owner. I contacted
The New Kolb Aircraft Co. and was told the correct serial number for my
kit is FS-572.
Looking on page 71 of the builders manual dated Jan 1998, under
"serial numbers", it states that the number stamped onto the cage is not
the serial number, it is a cage number only, and to contact Kolb for the
serial number.
I wonder how many other Firestars are using the cage number as a
serial number. The New Kolb Aircraft Co. says they have no information
on cage numbers from the Old Kolb Co.
The New Kolb Aircraft Co has been very helpful trying to get this
resolved.
Dennis Souder if you are monitoring the kolb-list, please contact
me, as I would like your imput on this. Thank-you, Lloyd
O'Dell wander10(at)citrus.infi.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Serial numbers on Firestars |
If Dennis or anyone else knows what to do with this situation ( no original
bill of sale from Kolb anymore - but still intend to register it with the FAA
at some point) please post this info on the site for the rest of us too.
Also, I do not remember seeing either a cage or serial number on my 1985
plans built Firestar - where would I find that?
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Serial numbers on Firestars |
I went through the same thing, No bill of sale. However Kolb Co furnished
me with a bill of sale that satisfied the FAA. I believe that it was with
the old company though. Are you sure that the TNKolb won't help?
Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: <SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Serial numbers on Firestars
>
> If Dennis or anyone else knows what to do with this situation ( no
original
> bill of sale from Kolb anymore - but still intend to register it with the
FAA
> at some point) please post this info on the site for the rest of us too.
> Also, I do not remember seeing either a cage or serial number on my 1985
> plans built Firestar - where would I find that?
>
> Steve
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lloyd O'Dell" <wander10(at)infi.net> |
The gage number is stamped on the rear of the top tube , just under
the engine on a Firestar II.
The New Kolb Aircraft Co. changed the numbering system when they
started producing kits, and the number stamped onto the gages is the
serial number. That happened sometime in 1999. If you purchased a kit
from The New Kolb Co. the numbers are correct.
The New Kolb Co is very helpful in this matter. The problem is I
have two original Bill of Sales with the incorrect serial number that
the FAA will not accept. Now I have to convince the two previous owners
of the mistake and beg them to issue new Bill of Sales. Lloyd
O'Dell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Reynen" <frank_reynen(at)ix.netcom.com> |
>
>
> !. There is still an air bubble in both oil feed lines to the carbs. I
> have a couple hours on it now and the bubbles are still there. Is this
> normal. I am running oil in my gas untill I get this straightened out.
Woody,
No, this is NOT normal. I think that your oilpump is cavitating . Even if
the oil in your supply tank appears to be getting lower,I would not trust it
to feed the required amount of oil to the motor.
I advise to take the valvecover and oiltank off including the oilpump and
intake manifold stubs where the carbs are attached and after bleeding the
air at the top, run the pump on the bench with a drill motor at max speed
untill you get a steady oilsupply from both sides without any bubbles.
I ruined a good 582 for not taking care of this after exchanging a leaking
checkvalve as I mentioned in an earlier message.
Frank Reynen MKIII on Lotus floats
www.webcom.com/reynen/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Serial numbers on Firestars |
| From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
10/9/02 20:52SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com
>
> If Dennis or anyone else knows what to do with this situation ( no original
> bill of sale from Kolb anymore - but still intend to register it with the FAA
> at some point) please post this info on the site for the rest of us too.
> Also, I do not remember seeing either a cage or serial number on my 1985
> plans built Firestar - where would I find that?
>
> Steve
>
=================================
Looking at this thread it reminds me of some thoughts I had a while back on
this. If this aircraft is an experimental the builder can create whatever
serial number he chooses out of thin air. The builder of an experimental is
the Manufacturer! The factory Kolb in this case is considered no more then
the raw material provider. In other words I can create whatever serial
number I want, and call the M3X I am building any name that I want. For
example I can register it with the FAA as CaptainRon0001 for sn nmbr. The SN
number may be needed by Kolb, if a Kolb AD comes out, they may need to know
how to find you,, but the FAA will not. The FAA does not issue AD's on
*experimentals*. :-)
Ron(FHU)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Tallahassee Report |
Hello Lloyd,
We closed on the house on the Wednesday after we got back from London. The last
of the move was completed on the morning before the closing. We had professional
help on the big stuff but it was a real scramble. At least that part of the
relocation is behind us.
I went out to the airport the day after and flew for an hour just to make sure
I still know how. It was great.
Took the plane to Sopchoppy for a Fall Festival last week-end to see if we could
recruit some new EEA members. It was not a big success but it was a great dry
run for a similar gathering here in town next month. I left the plane at our
place at Ochlockonee Bay and will go down there to fly some more next week.
Keep me posted on your flight testing.
Duane
----- Original Message -----
From: Lloyd O'Dell
Subject: Kolb-List: Serial numbers on Firestars
I purchased a Firestar II kit in Jan. 2002 with the serial number listed
as F-1142 on the Bill of Sale, and that number was stamped onto the
cage. This kit was originally sold by Kolb on March 16, 1995. I
purchased the kit from the second owner.
I tried to register this plane with the FAA and was informed that as
of Oct.1, 1998 the FAA would not register a plane without an original
Bill of Sale from the kit manufacturer to the first owner. I contacted
The New Kolb Aircraft Co. and was told the correct serial number for my
kit is FS-572.
Looking on page 71 of the builders manual dated Jan 1998, under
"serial numbers", it states that the number stamped onto the cage is not
the serial number, it is a cage number only, and to contact Kolb for the
serial number.
I wonder how many other Firestars are using the cage number as a
serial number. The New Kolb Aircraft Co. says they have no information
on cage numbers from the Old Kolb Co.
The New Kolb Aircraft Co has been very helpful trying to get this
resolved.
Dennis Souder if you are monitoring the kolb-list, please contact
me, as I would like your imput on this. Thank-you, Lloyd
O'Dell wander10(at)citrus.infi.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
10/10/2002 02:24:41 PM
I just finished talking with Kerry at Lockwood regarding Yamalube. His
positive experience with Yamalube was from use in a 618. The observed
benefit was less buildup in the Rave valve area, an apparent problem with
the 618. He said the paperwork said only "Yamalube", no additional model
number.
I mentioned I may try the Yamalube2, (which was, in 1982, the premix 2
cycle oil) in a 582. He said that in all the other Rotaxes smaller than
the 618 they always recommend the Pennzoil for air cooled oil. I told him
how much I hated Pennzoil (sorry, I have this anti-parrafin based oil
thing), and he said "go for the Yamalube". My goal is to reduce buildup
also, in ring grooves.
Kerry reminded me that they (Lockwood?) had run the 503 oil test TWICE now,
300 hours each time on four 503 engines, premium fuel. And Pennzoil always
came out on top. Lastly, I asked if they sold Yamalube, they do not.
Hope this helps,,,
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gherkins Tim-rp3420 <rp3420(at)motorola.com> |
Excellent report! Thanks Jim.
Regards,
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Gerken [mailto:gerken(at)us.ibm.com]
Subject: Kolb-List: Yamalube
I just finished talking with Kerry at Lockwood regarding Yamalube. His
positive experience with Yamalube was from use in a 618. The observed
benefit was less buildup in the Rave valve area, an apparent problem with
the 618. He said the paperwork said only "Yamalube", no additional model
number.
I mentioned I may try the Yamalube2, (which was, in 1982, the premix 2
cycle oil) in a 582. He said that in all the other Rotaxes smaller than
the 618 they always recommend the Pennzoil for air cooled oil. I told him
how much I hated Pennzoil (sorry, I have this anti-parrafin based oil
thing), and he said "go for the Yamalube". My goal is to reduce buildup
also, in ring grooves.
Kerry reminded me that they (Lockwood?) had run the 503 oil test TWICE now,
300 hours each time on four 503 engines, premium fuel. And Pennzoil always
came out on top. Lastly, I asked if they sold Yamalube, they do not.
Hope this helps,,,
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joseph S Allman" <jallman(at)ft.newyorklife.com> |
Did Kerry say what they tested against?
Thanks,
Joe Allman
Slingshot 582 VA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Gerken
Subject: Kolb-List: Yamalube
I just finished talking with Kerry at Lockwood regarding Yamalube. His
positive experience with Yamalube was from use in a 618. The observed
benefit was less buildup in the Rave valve area, an apparent problem with
the 618. He said the paperwork said only "Yamalube", no additional model
number.
I mentioned I may try the Yamalube2, (which was, in 1982, the premix 2
cycle oil) in a 582. He said that in all the other Rotaxes smaller than
the 618 they always recommend the Pennzoil for air cooled oil. I told him
how much I hated Pennzoil (sorry, I have this anti-parrafin based oil
thing), and he said "go for the Yamalube". My goal is to reduce buildup
also, in ring grooves.
Kerry reminded me that they (Lockwood?) had run the 503 oil test TWICE now,
300 hours each time on four 503 engines, premium fuel. And Pennzoil always
came out on top. Lastly, I asked if they sold Yamalube, they do not.
Hope this helps,,,
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>
>Not sure but I think he filled it up to the top inspection plug, when in fact
>it should have been filled to the lower inspection plug.
Gosh maybe I should read the instructions some times. I just assumed it
would be to the top hole so that the top bearings would be lubricated.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Woody,
My wife says that I usually ignore the instructions unless it really does
not work out. Only then do I finally read the instructions. And, as a last
resort only, if all else fails, then I actually follow the instructions!
Jim
Mark III
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 582
>
>
> >
> >
> >Not sure but I think he filled it up to the top inspection plug, when in
fact
> >it should have been filled to the lower inspection plug.
>
>
> Gosh maybe I should read the instructions some times. I just assumed it
> would be to the top hole so that the top bearings would be lubricated.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lloyd O'Dell" <wander10(at)infi.net> |
Ron,
This is not a homebuilt aircraft. This is a kit built aircraft that
has a serial number issued by the factory, and the FAA treats it
differently. Both aircraft are considered experimental.
The FAA is insisting on an original Bill of Sale from the factory
to the first owner, effective Oct.1,1998, which includes a serial
number The factory will not issue a Bill of Sale with an incorrect
serial number.
Regards, Lloyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: X hinges & Gap Seals. |
gap seals on in '99
bn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | I believe you were right... |
Brother Pike...
Hope this finds you and yours well and happy...
Went out to the airplane patch and fooled with the FireFly today...
Before flying it for about 1.3 hours, I carefully wiped away the leakage you
had pointed out around the magneto case seam on the legendary 447...
Following the flight, there was more "mung" (great word... where'd you get
it?) around the case, and it was even spread up the side toward the cooling
shroud and heads...
Based on this, and being a trained intelligence observer, (both air and
ground qualified) have about concluded that your diagnosis at London was
correct, and I need to tear the wretched device down and jerk that front
(magneto end) crank seal out for replacement... I will order the part
tomorrow.
I am clearly in your debt for your astute analysis, sir...
The 447 saga continues.... is there truly no end to this patented Rotax
fun...?
Beauford of Brandon
FireFly #076
76 miserable hours...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Serial numbers |
| From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
In a legal sense (FAA) there is no difference between a Kit built and a home
built. I believe it is a question how one aproaches the system(FAA) with the
registration request. I am assuming that you are the builder,, and that the
aircraft has not been completed. :-)
Ron(FHU)
========================================
10/10/02 15:56Lloyd O'Dell
>
> Ron,
> This is not a homebuilt aircraft. This is a kit built aircraft that
>
> has a serial number issued by the factory, and the FAA treats it
> differently. Both aircraft are considered experimental.
> The FAA is insisting on an original Bill of Sale from the factory
> to the first owner, effective Oct.1,1998, which includes a serial
> number The factory will not issue a Bill of Sale with an incorrect
> serial number.
> Regards, Lloyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron gap seals: Where's the performance? |
Well, I flew the Mark II tonight for the first time with aileron gap seals.
I am disappointed in the performance change. I don't see any difference in
top end or stall speeds. I will say the aileron do seem to have some (just a
little) more authority and, probably purely by accident, also seem somewhat
better balanced.
I certainly won't take them off but at least so far it seems like there's
not a lot of difference there, at least on my plane.
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>Woody,
>
>My wife says that I usually ignore the instructions unless it really does
>not work out. Only then do I finally read the instructions. And, as a last
>resort only, if all else fails, then I actually follow the instructions!
>
>Jim
>Mark III
As I say if all else fails dig through the garbage and find the
instructions. I drained the oil down in the gearbox. On the weekend I will
do the oil pump thing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Rotax Cross-reference |
Kolbers:
Can someone please tell me which Sea-Doo engine equates to the 447?
My intent is to attempt to locate the crankshaft oil seal I need here
locally at a Sea Doo dealer, rather than order it from an out of town Rotax
dealer... I have heard that the Sea Doo cats are reluctant to sell parts
for use on an airplane, so I would just as soon not have to go into any
detail with them when I try to locate the part.
Thanks,
Beauford
________________________________________________________________________________
I have about ready to mount my engine, an ULII-02 on my FireFly kit, how about
you fellas listing, or recommending a prop and reduction for me?..maybe we could
start a thread with everyones props/reduction/engine recommendations for the
builders like me to consider!
I believe I will use a belt reduction at this time, but dont have one purchased
yet.(any out there for sale?)
Also anyone with a Cayuna or 2SI powerplant with performance info, or engine mounting
advice will be a helpful.
Thx
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org> |
| Subject: | Wing support gig |
I am about to cover and finish my wings on my Ultra Star. I would like to
build a gig I can mount the wing in so it is supported on each end and can
be rotated so I can work on one side and flip it over and work on the other
side without having to wait for things to dry before I can turn it over and
work on the other side. The root end of the wing has plenty of places to
attach to but the tip end has nothing. I'm thinking of drilling a 1/8th"
hole in the center of the tip bow and having a 1/8th" dowel in the end of a
3/8" threaded rod that will mount on a vertical support of the gig to
support the tip end. After the wing is finished, I can put a 1/8" rivet in
the hole. Anyone done this before or have a better idea?
\
Dale Sellers
Georgia Ultra Star
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org> |
I have a Cuyuna on an Ultra Star, without looking at the manual I think the
hp is 35 at 6300 rpms. On the ultra Star, which is very similar to your
plane, the reduction is 1.96:1 and the standard prop for the US is a 50 X 30
two blade wood. You can get the reduction drive from 2si and Tenn. Props
for between $200 and $250. The mounting I don't know about on your plane
but if you go to the 2si website they give you the mounting dimensions of
the 2si engine which is the same as the Cuyuna.
Dale Sellers
Georgia Ultra Star
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Don Gherardini
Subject: Kolb-List: FireFly prop?
I have about ready to mount my engine, an ULII-02 on my FireFly kit, how
about you fellas listing, or recommending a prop and reduction for
me?..maybe we could start a thread with everyones props/reduction/engine
recommendations for the builders like me to consider!
I believe I will use a belt reduction at this time, but dont have one
purchased yet.(any out there for sale?)
Also anyone with a Cayuna or 2SI powerplant with performance info, or engine
mounting advice will be a helpful.
Thx
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing support gig |
>
>I am about to cover and finish my wings on my Ultra Star. I would like to
>build a gig I can mount the wing in so it is supported on each end and can
>be rotated so I can work on one side and flip it over and work on the other
>side without having to wait for things to dry before I can turn it over and
>work on the other side. The root end of the wing has plenty of places to
>attach to but the tip end has nothing. I'm thinking of drilling a 1/8th"
>hole in the center of the tip bow and having a 1/8th" dowel in the end of a
>3/8" threaded rod that will mount on a vertical support of the gig to
>support the tip end. After the wing is finished, I can put a 1/8" rivet in
>the hole. Anyone done this before or have a better idea?
>\
>Dale Sellers
>Georgia Ultra Star
I did exactly that, except the hole is 3/16 on the wing bow and
now plugged with a plastic plug - from Ace hardware.
You can paint/polybrush one side - flip it over and do the other
It rally helps when your doing a lot of different colors on both sides.
http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/Sideview.jpg
Covering --- I don't know about - but maybe?
I used "John Russell's" jig's, he had them built already.
Maybe he will send you a picture of them.
He's on the list.
Or -- he's just up north - in Rome Georgia.
at jr(at)rometool.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Cross-reference |
Buford/Gents:
Nothing exotic about the crankshaft seal. You can get the i.d. number off the
seal or out of the parts book for the 447. Go down to your friendly bearing
shop, Tampa has to have a good selection, and match it up. Take the old seal
with you if you have a problem with the parts number.
Same goes for bearings. Bearing shops are your cheapest source. Many shops
stock a lot of bearings and seals. If not, they can usually get them
overnight.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Cross-reference |
I called the local SeaDoo dealer and asked if they had ever used an engine
of around 450 cc, and he said no. Makes sense, why would a watercraft use
an air cooled engine? I bet it originated out of a snowmobile called a
SkiDoo Safari.
Why not pop the seal out and take it to the local bearing supply place and
see if they can match numbers? The CPS catalog gives the size as 35x72x7/8.5
The old one ought to have those same numbers on it.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>Kolbers:
>Can someone please tell me which Sea-Doo engine equates to the 447?
>
>My intent is to attempt to locate the crankshaft oil seal I need here
>locally at a Sea Doo dealer, rather than order it from an out of town Rotax
>dealer... I have heard that the Sea Doo cats are reluctant to sell parts
>for use on an airplane, so I would just as soon not have to go into any
>detail with them when I try to locate the part.
>
>Thanks,
>Beauford
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kolb Firestar ll- Axle fitting failure |
I am new to the Kolb-list and hope the following information is of interest.
This memo is long as I wanted to communicate all of the important facts
relating to what I believe is a serious problem with the Kolb FireStar axle
fitting.
I own a FireStar ll that I purchased from the New Kolb Aircraft Co. in April
1999 as a kit. It took me approx.800 hours to build, had flight instruction
and had 27 successful flights. The plane has only 12 flight hours on it. On
the 28th flight, the axle fitting broke on what I thought was a normal
landing. I had a Mechanical Engineer evaluate the broken axle fitting and he
developed a three page report. I would like to share with you some excerpts
from his report including his opinion on the axle fitting which states " the
part is clearly not adequately designed for its intended service". The report
was communicated to The New Kolb Aircraft co. on June 21, 2002. I was in
hopes they would communicate the potential problem to their customers but
conversation with them indicated they were only aware of one other similiar
incident and they did not perceive a potential problem.However, I have talked
with others who are very familiar with the FireStar and they have seen the
axle fitting failure a number of times before.
The following are excerpts from the engineer's report
"------ during a normal landing experinced separation of the left wheel
and axle assembly from the aircraft resulting in an uncontrollable "roll
out". The left wing contacted the ground resulting in damage to that wing and
aileron. Load transfer back into the fuselage resulted in failure due to
buckling on four individual tubes. The root ribs forward of the spar also
were damaged on both wings due to the transfer of load through the windshield
enclosure structure from the nose up to the wings."
" Both wheel axle fittings were removed for careful inspection. The
failed fitting was in two pieces. The intact fitting showed slight
deformation on the larger (1.0x.058") tube.
The powder coating showed a small crack at the inside of the acute
angle formed between the two tubes.
Both fittings were put in a stripper overnight to remove the powder
coating. Visual and magaflux inspection confirmed that the intact fitting is
cracked, the crack being approx. .37"long. It is important to note that there
is evidence of slight "undercut" at the edge of the weld where the crack is
centered.
Both fittings and a "control piece of normalized 4130 tubing were
taken to a testing lab for hardness testing. The control piece measured 66 on
the HR15N scale. Both fittings showed similar numbers. This would indicate
that the weldments did not experience improper cooling rates and most likely
they are made of 4130, (although a chemical analysis has not been performed).
On the failed fitting, the failure is approx. .125" from the weld and
appears to be coincident to the end of the gear leg. (The ends of both gear
legs have a slight radii, Approx.12") Discolorations and some polishing of
the failure surface suggest that the fitting first cracked on the bottom of
the large tube adjacent to the end of the gear leg. It then appears that the
crack progressed more towards the front of the fitting until approx. one half
of the tube circumference was achieved when the part failed due to rupture of
the remaining section.
Conclusion---- By design,the fitting focuses large stress into a
small area; the vertex intersection of the inside corner of the two tubes.
The slightest defect in the weld becomes an additional stress riser. The
fitting is further subjected to very high local stresses on the inside
surface of the large tube at the end of the gear leg due to the transition of
those two elements. The bolt holes also show signs of local deformation due
to high contact stresses. Given that one part failed catastrophically and the
other was at the beginning stages of failure in such few hours of service
suggests rather severe low cycle fatigue. The part is clearly not adequately
designed for its intended service."
As a result of the engineer's report that was sent to Kolb, I
understand that they are now reinforcing their new axle fittings with gussets
and may go to thicker walled tubing.
I would urge all of you with a FireStar ll to closely preflight the
axle fitting looking for cracks,bulges, etc. It may be worthwhile to order
Kolbs new fitting that is much stronger. I hope this long message has been
useful and saves someone the dollars, hours, lost flight time and heartaches
this part failure cost me.
Has anyone else had problems with their axle fittings????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | NealMcCann(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Firestar ll- Axle fitting failure |
Thanks! I'll check mine ASAP. I know of a Rans S12 gear shearing off at the
attachment to the fuselage. We should all do careful inspections on gear
parts
no matter what we fly - GA or UL's.
Neal McCann
96' Firestar II - 503
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Cross-reference |
Your best bet would be take out the old seal and after checking the
yellow pages under bearings and seals take it down to your nearest bearing
suppy store and get a replacement. Rotax does not make their own seals or
bearings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | FireFly Vortex Generators |
Kolbers:
As a fallout of my personal galloping dementia program, I have forgotten
precisely who asked me to send drawings of the details of the vortex
generators mounted on the kleenex firefly at London... there were two of
you, as I recall...
In my own defense, I took pen and digital device in hand and actually drew
and then photo copied the specs for the gizmos... They are actually the
mental prodigy of Howard Shackleford, who was once kind enough to share them
with the List membership.... (see the Kolb Archives...)
Anyway, I duly sent the picture of the plans off to the Matronics photo
share demon to be published... unfortunately, the demon seems to be out of
town... and nothing happened...
If the two gentlemen who wanted the plans would be so kind as to recontact
me directly, I will be happy to fire them off to you without further
delay...
Beauford
Aluminum Butcher of Brandon FL
FF076
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "abbygirlk9" <abbygirlk9(at)netzero.net> |
| Subject: | Copperstate 2002 |
Hey Kolbers:
I just returned from the Copperstate Regional Fly-In today (it runs thru Sunday)
and after a one year absence it is alive and well. The last Copperstate
was well attended but was not permitted to return to the Williams-Gateway Airport
due to some squabble. This year it is being held at a new airfield that
is being built-up (privately) and my guess is that it is going to be a heck of
an event in future years. The reason I wanted to share this is to entice you
to attend next year as the Kolb planes were well represented ... John Woods from
California, Arizona Dave from ....? (Prescott, AZ), Jim from Tucson, Tim Gherkins
from the Phoenix area, myself (Stephen Feldmann from the Phoenix area)
another fellow I think from Tucson. I'm sorry to say that this last Kolb pilot
lost power approximately 1 mile out on approach then believe it or not completely
lost his elevator control before setting it down and pancaked in (and thankfully
walked away). I hope he doesn't mind me telling this as I don't have
all the info and did not talk to him but his Firefly was badly damaged. I probably
missed other Kolbers out there but like I said we were present in force
....we really need to have a SW fly-in sometime, El Paso (ya listening Dave
& Will?) or here in AZ, or perhaps New Mexico. I enjoyed talking at length with
many of the Kolbers and got all pumped up to keep working on my own FSII project.
I bet that Tim Gherkins will give everyone more info in a coming post.
Stephen
Firestar II, 400 hrs & counting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
Dale,
Isn't the reason your running the shorter prop is due to limited ground
clearance?
I think he might be able to run a longer prop depending upon the
configuration of the reduction drive he uses. The long prop might be a
little better over all performance. What you guys think?
jerb
>
>I have a Cuyuna on an Ultra Star, without looking at the manual I think the
>hp is 35 at 6300 rpms. On the ultra Star, which is very similar to your
>plane, the reduction is 1.96:1 and the standard prop for the US is a 50 X 30
>two blade wood. You can get the reduction drive from 2si and Tenn. Props
>for between $200 and $250. The mounting I don't know about on your plane
>but if you go to the 2si website they give you the mounting dimensions of
>the 2si engine which is the same as the Cuyuna.
>
>Dale Sellers
>Georgia Ultra Star
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Don Gherardini
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Kolb-List: FireFly prop?
>
>
>I have about ready to mount my engine, an ULII-02 on my FireFly kit, how
>about you fellas listing, or recommending a prop and reduction for
>me?..maybe we could start a thread with everyones props/reduction/engine
>recommendations for the builders like me to consider!
>I believe I will use a belt reduction at this time, but dont have one
>purchased yet.(any out there for sale?)
>Also anyone with a Cayuna or 2SI powerplant with performance info, or engine
>mounting advice will be a helpful.
>Thx
> Don
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
> Isn't the reason your running the shorter prop
> is due to limited ground
> clearance?
> The long prop might be a
> little better over all performance. What you
> guys think?
> jerb
jerb/Gang:
It's been 17 years since I flew my Ultrastar, but I still remember how well it
flew. Especially how well the Cuyuna ULII02 with the Jim Culver 50X30 two
blade wooden prop was matched to my airplane. The length of the prop was
limited by ground and tailboom clearance. However, there was no need to fly
with a longer prop on the Ultrastar. It performed well, both climb and
cruise. WOT, straight and level flight would yield aprx'ly 85 mph. It made
very symetric loops and perfect hammerhead stalls. Only problem was the
Cuyuna would quit running in the vertical position, just prior to kicking
pedal to get the nose pointing earthward. This meant a dead stick landing,
unstrap, get out, restart, strap back in, and go try it again.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Octoberlite Fly-in |
Gang,
Want to remind everyone that next weekend Oct. 18,19 and 20 is the Shane
Smith Octoberlite Fly-in at Ronnie Smith's place. Would love to see some
Kolbers there.
John Hauck, are you going to make it this year? We missed you last year. I
can't remember why you missed. May have been worn out after your Pt Barrow
flight. Anyway hope you make it this year. I would be mighty proud to catch
a ride in Miss Pfer and brag to the list about it.
Later,
John Cooley
Firestar II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Cross-reference |
>
>Thankee, Woody...
>Through the kindness of Brother Pike, I now have the specific nomenclature
>of the seal in question... I will endeavour to pull that little sucker
>early next week...
Some people have problems pulling seals. The best trick of the trade is
to understand you are not ever going to use it again. Feel free to mash the
hell out of it when you are removing it. If you try to take it out and keep
it in good condition it will take forever and might need an engine tear
down to do it. Do be carefull not to scratch the shaft in the mashing /
removal process.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Rotax Cross-reference |
>
>
>So how many hours are you going to spend to avoid ordering the right seal?
>Incredible.
The right seal???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Cuyuna's and hardware |
I have some hard earned $$$ advice for the Cuyuna drivers that are looking
for reduction drives....2SI makes a very good cog belt reduction( in my opinion...results
may vary) . It is a 2.58 to 1 that will bolt right up to the UL202
. It runs as smooth and quieter than the Nova 2.04 to 1 gearbox ( noisey at
idle and less than confidence building) that is reliable but much more expensive
if you can find one. 2SI also has gearbox's in different ratios that ,like
all gearboxs, can be pricey. As far as a prop, a ground adjustable in 2 blade
would be the most cost effective and diameter would be the largest that will
fit the boom tube . Composite or anything with leading edge protection is OK.
TNK 's recommendation for clearance on the Firefly should be used.
Bottom line for me was the 2SI cog belt drive and a 3 blade Warp drive with
50 inch diameter because of the ground clearance and boom tube design of the
ULTRASTAR. I did have trouble with a resonance vibration that was only relieved
by changing to the 3 blade prop. I had this trouble with both the gearbox or
cog belt drives so it seems an engine RPM to blade configuration was the problem
with the drumming resonance vibration problem that has been discussed on
the list before.
I am building a modified Ultrastar and will be using this same setup but with
a 3 blade Ivoprop purchased on ebay that I do not have any experience with
........Any body got any advice for me on these props?
Ultrastar Ed in
Western NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | BSERBJR's ME Rpt on "wheel fitting" |
Mr. BSERBJR,
tnx for very informative rpt. this kind of info makes this list invaluable
to builders and flyers of kolbs (or any thing for that matter). wondering
how much that research and rpt cost u? tnx again and good for TNK for
responding so quickly and appropriately
JTB-n-BTR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Beauford Tuton ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Beauford Tuton
Subject: London Pictures
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/beauford@tampabay.rr.com.A.10.12.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
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o Main Photo Share Index:
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--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Beauford Tuton ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Beauford Tuton
Subject: Vortex Generator Plans
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--------------------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Dale Sellers ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Dale Sellers
Subject: Ultra Star Restoration Progress
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
There was an incident involving a Kolb at my home airport last night. Fortunately,
it didn't happen to me!
Another Kolb driver, chap named Dominic, who has a Firefly, had been up flying
for a couple of hours. While he was gone, another pilot with a Luscombe had been
practicing in the pattern. As Dominic was making his downwind leg, the guy
in the Luscombe was on final approach. Unfortunately, the Luscombe made a pretty
bad landing and broke his tailwheel off, dragging the tail of his airplane
for 30 or 40 feet before stopping his airplane smack in the middle of the active
runway.
Dominic saw the Luscombe, of course, but didn't know why he'd stopped on the runway,
so he landed long. I think that's when he made his mistake. He taxiied back
to the end of the active runway, which by now the Luscombe had cleared, and
did another takeoff and circuit of the pattern. Upon landing, he found that
he had about a half-inch chunk of prop missing on one blade.
While we can't be certain, it seems likely that the Luscombe left a part or two
on the runway during his own mishap and Dominic picked up one of them in his
prop. Though I'm no expert, I looked at it and would say it's beyond repair. Dominic
thought so too and undoubtedly ordered a new blade today.
I'm not entirely sure what this should teach us except that when anything unexpected
happens, try to think of everything you possibly can to check before continuing
or initiating a flight. In this case, it would have been prudent to do
a walk along the runway looking for any foreign objects.
Fortunately, no one was hurt in either incident but I expect both pilots are sadder,
wiser, and poorer for the experience.
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Herren" <wmdherren(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Cuyuna's and hardware |
>From: "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com>
>Subject: Kolb-List: Cuyuna's and hardware
>
>
>
> I have some hard earned $$$ advice for the Cuyuna drivers that are
>looking for reduction drives....2SI makes a very good cog belt reduction(
>in my opinion...results may vary) . It is a 2.58 to 1 that will bolt right
>up to the UL202 . the boom tube . Composite or anything with leading edge
>protection is OK. TNK 's recommendation for clearance on the Firefly should
>be used.
> Bottom line for me was the 2SI cog belt drive and a 3 blade Warp drive
> with 50 inch diameter because of the ground clearance and boom tube
>design of the ULTRASTAR. I did have trouble with a resonance vibration that
>was only relieved by changing to the 3 blade prop. I had this trouble with
>both the gearbox or cog belt drives so it seems an engine RPM to blade
>configuration was the problem with the drumming resonance vibration problem
>that has been discussed on the list before.
> I am building a modified Ultrastar and will be using this same setup
>but with a 3 blade Ivoprop purchased on ebay that I do not have any
>experience with ........Any body got any advice for me on these props?
Ultrastar
Ed in Western NY
In selecting a redrive ratio I would strongly advise using the calculator on
the warp drive prop site. http://www.warpdriveprops.com
With your 50" prop and a 2.58 ratio you will find that you will need to have
that engine turning nearly 12,000 RPM to get into the range of mach .88 to
.92 at the prop tip that gives max prop efficiency. Many thanks to whoever
posted that URL! (I think it was John H.) Bill in Lousyana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
Looking at the Warp Drive prop speed for best performance calculator, still leaves
questions unanswered. Is this the best speed for a 2 blade, 3 blade? How
much HP is required to spin a given prop at the best performance speed? According
to the formula, a 72 inch prop should spin at around 3200/3300 rpm. Anybody
out there spinning a 72 inch prop that fast? Curious ...............Kirk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb incident |
> While we can't be certain, it seems likely that the Luscombe left a part or two
on the runway during his own mishap and Dominic picked up one of them in his
prop.
> -Ken Fackler
Ken/Gang:
The probablility that the Firefly picked up some FOD with
it's wheels (main gear) and threw it into the prop is
there. However, it would behoove the Firefly pilot to do a
thorough inspection of his engine and airframe to insure the
damage was not caused by something seperating from his own
aircraft. Even better is to have several other people
familiar with the Firefly, or Kolbs, or ultralights, to make
a thorough inspection.
I think the greater probability of FOD damage is from the
Firefly rather than debris on the runway. But it could have
been either.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>
>Actually, the 2SI belt drive is 2.5:1 but 2.58 is close. I would personally
>stay away from Warp Drive props on that engine though. I do have one
>customer running a 64" 3 blade IVO on one and that performs well, but my
>choice of props would be GSC or Powerfin.
>
>Tom Olenik
>Olenik Aviation
>http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com
We've been testing - or running the Warp Dive and Power Fins next to each
other.
The "Power Fin" sure is a lot Quieter at the same RPM.
I have a Warp that I like fine, but I think the I'll try a Power Fin next time,
just for the noise.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firefly prop continued... |
So far getting some good stuff on this subject...keep it coming men!.....also....
Im looking in the Kolb Firefly builders manual...they are recommending a 60"3 bladed
IVO.....and in the next paragraph, it says this...and I quote...
"If you need the extra power of a 2 blade prop, then a 2 blade 66" Ivo would be
the next best choice."
Now my question is...what exactly do they mean by..."the extra power of a 2 blade"....
are we refering that maybe any particular engine might need a 2 blade because it
does not have the power to swing a 3 blade ?
Or are they saying that any engine has more thrust with a 2 blade vs a 3 blade?
.....somebody educate me here.....I'm Confused,,..course..thats seems to be my
natural state!
as far as that propeller chart and the tip speed caculator....I ran several numbers
thru it and I dont believe anyone is swinging a prop in this biz anywhere
near .88 mach...the numbers just dont jive with the engines and reductions avail.
still need help!!!
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly prop continued... |
>
>
>Like you, I am not sure I understand this.
>Point of fact is that most large aircraft C-130 opt for a 4 blade prop as it
>*can* abosorb the power. A 2 blade prop is restriced to its top speed by the
>sonic barrier. So they go to a smaller diameter 3 blade prop with the same
>total airfoil area, or better yet a 4 blade prop if one wants to put larger
>motor in a constricted area. The down side is more parasitic drag with more
>blades, if the blades are too be of efficient size (and the regular
>explanation of undisturbed air).
>Anyway I would be interested in an explanation as well for that quote in the
>manual.
Here's one explanation:
..if you realize that a longer prop is more efficient at
moving a mass of air, per HP input..
This point -- which many fail to understand --
has to do with the velocity of the slip-stream produced by those smaller
diameter props. Even if they are in fact moving say 65 hp-worth of air,
the only
way they can do so is to accelerate that smaller diameter column of air to a
higher velocity -- significantly higher in most cases.
Focus on the 'power'. Power is defined as the rate at which work is done.
And 'work' in this sense means the transfer of energy from one physical thing
to another by the application of force. In this case, the force is torque
and the thing is air. When we talk about 'horsepower' we are simply using a
form of shorthand to define the lifting of a certain amount of weight a given
distance in a given amount of time. To apply those definitions to airplanes
& propellers, the weight in the equation becomes the mass of air that must be
accelerated by the propeller, while the force that accomplishes that is the
torque which causes the propeller to spin.
In 'airplane-speak' we call the product of this marriage 'Thrust'.
Unfortunately, air is elastic -- it can be compressed very easily. And when
you get right down
to it, a propeller is not a very efficient converter of torque to thrust.
Indeed, the most efficient propellers have only ONE blade... and achieve high
efficiency only by moving slowly... as in s..l..o..w..l..y... not real
handy for use in real airplanes :-) Add more blades... even one... and the
efficiency drops. Spin it faster and it drops some more. Make the blades
SHORTER and it drops again! Terrible things, propellers :-)
- stolen from the vast Internet - but interesting never the less.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly prop continued... |
Let muddy the water a bit from my own experience. Using an older Rotax 532
with 64 hp, started out using a 3 blade 64" Ivo. Acceleration and climb was
good, but if you pitched the prop to achieve just hitting red line at level
flight at full throttle (and that is a truism), the top speed was not all
that great, and the engine acted like it was overpropped. If you pitched
the prop a bit less, then the engine acted happy, but you were flying
around at 5800rpm at 64 mph and it was noisy and obnoxious.
Didn't want to go to a 62" 3 blade, just too small. Bigger disc area is
better. Big swept volumes of air are better than smaller swept volumes of
air unless you are flying a super sleek hot rod, and we aren't.
Went to a 66" 2 blade Ivo and it was great. Good climb out and good speed
spread. Most of the guys on this list like to run their Rotax engines at
5800 rpm, if I did that, I would always be flying at around 80, and the
thermals would beat me to death. Flying at around 60 now requires an rpm of
about 5000-5200. (With a Westach tach, who really knows?)
Here's my prop theory, and it's worth whatever you think it's worth...:
With either 2 or 3 blades, all the prop blades are absorbing whatever
horsepower and torque you have available. Let's say you have a 66" two
blade and a 60" three blade. Because of the difference in diameter, you
might be able to pitch both props to the same angle, and then at full
throttle level flight redline, perhaps both props will give you a top speed
of 80.
But compare a 64" 3 blade with a 66" 2 blade and things change a lot. That
third blade is almost as long as one of the blades on the 2 blade prop and
will pull almost as much load on the engine per blade. That means you have
to have a lot less pitch on the three blade prop than the two blade prop.
For those of you that did the model airplane thing, remember the difference
between climb props, stunt props and speed props? A Fox .35 on a Flite
Streak with an 11-3 would go straight up, but top speed was only about 60.
Use a 10-6 and go maybe 80, or a 9-8 and go 90, but the climb was not as
good. That same situation is still true for big props and Kolbs.
With a long three blade prop, you have to use less pitch to allow the
engine to turn up, and your top speed will be less. With a short three
blade prop, you can use a lot more pitch and it will go faster at the same
rpm, more overall speed spread, but climb will stink.
A two blade prop has the advantage of having one less blade to soak up the
available power, so you can have more pitch, which gives more top end (Or
in our case, speed spread for the rpm's: not needing to cruise 300 rpm
below red line. Kolbs don't go all that fast anyway, so you actually just
end up cruising at a lower rpm.)
And since the two bladed prop is always a bit longer than a comparable
three bladed prop, you sweep a bigger disc area, which helps your climb. So
IMHO, a two bladed prop is (with apologies to Martha Stewart) "A Good
Thing," because you get the best of both worlds: a better climb and more
top end with slower rpm's at cruise.
On the other hand, if you have oodles of horsepower, and can turn a three
bladed prop of the same diameter and pitch as the biggest two bladed prop
that will fit your Kolb, then by all means do. It will probably be smoother
and quieter. If you have enough horsepower to turn a 4 bladed prop of equal
diameter and pitch, even better. (Like a C-130) But 65 horsepower ain't
enough to do that.
A friend of mine locally had a MKIII with a newer 582 and an Ivo 66" three
blade, 2.58.1 B box, and the engine was happy to pull that prop. But it had
less pitch than my 2 blade. His airplane accelerated much better than mine
and climbed better, but on cross countries, he was turning 5800 rpm and I
was at 5200 rpm, and I could run off and leave him any time I wanted.
With 65 horsepower and a 2.58:1 B box, you can turn a 72 inch 2 blade
prop. But what will your top end be? When that puppy hits red line at full
throttle level flight, will your MKIII be doing just 65mph, because with
that big prop you are having to use that much less pitch? So now it climbs
good, but no top end?
I am happy with my 66" two blade, but I think a 68" two blade would be
almost as good on top end and better on climb out. A newer 582 with a
better torque curve would probably swing a 70" two blade with an even
better climb out and almost as good top end.
Anybody got a good used 2 blade 68" or 70" Ivo or Powerfin prop they want
to sell? I'm planning to experiment a bit...
Sorry for the long post, but it is not a simple topic.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>10/13/02 13:35Don Gherardini
>
>> "If you need the extra power of a 2 blade prop, then a 2 blade 66" Ivo would
>> be the next best choice."
>> Now my question is...what exactly do they mean by..."the extra power of a 2
>> blade"....
>> are we refering that maybe any particular engine might need a 2 blade
because
>> it does not have the power to swing a 3 blade ?
>=======================================
>
>Like you, I am not sure I understand this. My understanding of this is based
>on total wing area x velocity of the air, all else being equal. I think
>someone whoever wrote that confusing quip was Mmmmm not very well informed.
>Point of fact is that most large aircraft C-130 opt for a 4 blade prop as it
>*can* abosorb the power. A 2 blade prop is restriced to its top speed by the
>sonic barrier. So they go to a smaller diameter 3 blade prop with the same
>total airfoil area, or better yet a 4 blade prop if one wants to put larger
>motor in a constricted area. The down side is more parasitic drag with more
>blades, if the blades are too be of efficient size (and the regular
>explanation of undisturbed air).
>Anyway I would be interested in an explanation as well for that quote in the
>manual.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
Anybody out there built a nice heater for the 503 on a Firestar2. Getting
cold up there and I am going to enclose it and heat it this winter. Sure
could use some help and ideas on building a forced air heater for the Kolb.
John H. if you are also reading this, I spoke to you ty Oshkosh about your
electric heated suit, can you pass on some more info about it, where to get
one etc.
Thanks
tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need 503 heat |
Tim/Gents:
Try this url:
http://www.sargentcycle.com/ChilliVest.htm
Sergeant's is still selling them for $179.95.
They are excellent product. Extremely lightweight, miserly 12DCV power
consumers. Easy hookup. No bulk. Electronic thermostat.
I can now dress normally on cold days and stay warm in the Mark III.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Skip Staub <skipnann(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly prop continued... |
Possums has it correct. In addition, not all airfoils from the different
manufacturers are equally efficient at the same diameter and RPM. Possum's
explanation may be rather simplistic to the aero engineer, but take a
chance and reread, in part, what he had to say.
>Here's one explanation:
>
>Focus on the 'power'. Power is defined as the rate at which work is done.
>And 'work' in this sense means the transfer of energy from one physical thing
>to another by the application of force. In this case, the force is torque
>and the thing is air. When we talk about 'horsepower' we are simply using a
>form of shorthand to define the lifting of a certain amount of weight a given
>distance in a given amount of time. To apply those definitions to airplanes
>& propellers, the weight in the equation becomes the mass of air that must be
>accelerated by the propeller, while the force that accomplishes that is the
>torque which causes the propeller to spin.
>
>In 'airplane-speak' we call the product of this marriage 'Thrust'.
>Unfortunately, air is elastic -- it can be compressed very easily. And when
>you get right down
>to it, a propeller is not a very efficient converter of torque to thrust.
>Indeed, the most efficient propellers have only ONE blade... and achieve high
>efficiency only by moving slowly... as in s..l..o..w..l..y... not real
>handy for use in real airplanes :-) Add more blades... even one... and the
>efficiency drops. Spin it faster and it drops some more. Make the blades
>SHORTER and it drops again! Terrible things, propellers :-)
>- stolen from the vast Internet - but interesting never the less.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firefly prop continued... |
In a message dated 10/13/02 8:39:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
possums(at)mindspring.com writes:
<< n 'airplane-speak' we call the product of this marriage 'Thrust'.
Unfortunately, air is elastic -- it can be compressed very easily. And when
you get right down
to it, a propeller is not a very efficient converter of torque to thrust.
Indeed, the most efficient propellers have only ONE blade... and achieve high
efficiency only by moving slowly... as in s..l..o..w..l..y... not real
handy for use in real airplanes :-) Add more blades... even one... and the
efficiency drops. Spin it faster and it drops some more. Make the blades
SHORTER and it drops again! Terrible things, propellers :-)
- stolen from the vast Internet - but interesting never the less. >>
Possum, you may or may not be correct on all this but I MUST ADMIT it goes
along with everything I have learned in modelling and flying in the real
world. I also know that there is a cubic function somewhere in the control of
elastic fluids but can't or never did know what that function is...for
example: what happens when your prop spins 2500 rpm as opposed to 5000
rpm....big big big difference, huh? It certainly is NOT 2:1 effect on the
forward motion of the ol aeroplane.It is more like night and day....which
puts it way above a linear function of area against area. It sounds square
law or even cubic to me..... or let me say it FEELS that way!!
George Randolph
Firestar driver from Akron Oh
George Randolph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly prop continued... |
>
> - stolen from the vast Internet - but interesting never the less. >>
>
>Possum, you may or may not be correct on all this but I MUST ADMIT it goes
>along with everything I have learned in modelling and flying in the real
>world. I also know that there is a cubic function somewhere in the control of
>elastic fluids but can't or never did know what that function is...for
>example: what happens when your prop spins 2500 rpm as opposed to 5000
>rpm....big big big difference, huh? It certainly is NOT 2:1 effect on the
>forward motion of the ol aeroplane.It is more like night and day....which
>puts it way above a linear function of area against area. It sounds square
>law or even cubic to me..... or let me say it FEELS that way!!
>
>George Randolph
>Firestar driver from Akron Oh
>
>George Randolph
Applied power verses rpm is a cubic function and is not linear.
Energy is a cubic function of its velocity, in such a manner that, when
prop speed increases linearly,
energy is produced exponentially; when velocity is doubled (multiplied by
2), its energy is multiplied by 8 (23 = 2 x 2 x 2).
I hope this would explain the difference.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firefly prop continued... |
| From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
10/13/02 17:36possums
> way they can do so is to accelerate that smaller diameter column of air to a
> higher velocity -- significantly higher in most cases.
===============================
Actually the accleration that one sees is the by-product of lift being
produced. The objective is *not* to accelerate the air, the objective is to
produce lift, and that is done by the airfoil of the prop blade. The radial
fan in my Swamp Cooler moves more air than a fan would and it has hundreds
of blades, it is not used on airplanes (excluding turbine engines of a rare
sort). As for the thrust that you noted, that is a consequence of the force
of lift acting on the prop (just like on a wing), and has nothing much to do
with the acceleration that was imparted to the air. In so far as to the
compressibility of air at anything less than transonic speeds you will find
that in measured terms (and meassurements have been taken) there is none in
practical terms for a properly rigged prop. When you do get compression by a
prop blade it indicates an over speed condition at the tip blades. *If* you
do get it (and you can tell by the noise) and I am begining to suspect that
a lot of the reporting about prop inefficiency I have been reading here, has
to do with just that. All it means is that you are turning the prop too
fast. Time to go to a smaller prop with same wing area. My previous measured
formula holds true,, ie wing area time air velocity = lift (thust). It may
take a wee more power to run a 4 blade prop than a two blade prop. But over
all in terms of lift (thrust) produced by the prop it will be the same. It
is true that a two blade prop is more efficient but not in the sense that I
have seen quoted in that manual.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly prop continued... |
>
>10/13/02 17:36possums
>
> > way they can do so is to accelerate that smaller diameter column of air
> to a
> > higher velocity -- significantly higher in most cases.
>It may
>take a wee more power to run a 4 blade prop than a two blade prop. But over
>all in terms of lift (thrust) produced by the prop it will be the same. It
>is true that a two blade prop is more efficient but not in the sense that I
>have seen quoted in that manual.
What manual?? - and remember that you are dragging 4 props around that circle.
4 props creates 4 times the drag and uses a "wee wee bit" more power-
why not use an 8 blade prop or a 16 blade Prop?
I'm not an engineer and I don't really know what I'm talking about - but
It always helps to take things to the extreme to test your theory.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincehallam(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cuyuna's and hardware |
hey that instantly grabs my attention , how can mach 9point something
bpossibly be efficient. No wonder Warp props are well spoken of.Can any one
explain some4 of the maths, physics or philosophy of this ? as my own
education is 50 years out of date
vnz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincehallam(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly prop continued... |
one undesirable effect of a large diameter geared prop is that if you have
engine failure the wnd milling drag is very hiigh.|Ihad a flex wing with a
small 200 cc geared motor on a 6 foot prop....If I throttled right back for
glide approach the glide ratio went rihgt down to about 2 to 1 even with
the prop declutched.Didnt like that.
vnz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincehallam(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly prop continued... |
5000 rpm 2500 ,each blade accelerates air twice the rate,,,, but also twice
as often,,tht is why twice the airspeed { at a constant angle of attack}
delivers 4 times the lift. Also ,twice the airspeed AT THE SAME LIFT reduces
the angle of attack to one quarter.And that gents is why you can and have to
flare a hang glider so exponentialy rapidly during speed reduction of
landing..IE half the speed ,quadruple thec angle of attack...I love that
vnz
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firefly prop continued... |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
>
> one undesirable effect of a large diameter geared prop is that if
> you have
> engine failure the wnd milling drag is very hiigh.|Ihad a flex wing
> with a
> small 200 cc geared motor on a 6 foot prop....If I throttled right
> back for
> glide approach the glide ratio went rihgt down to about 2 to 1
> even with
> the prop declutched.Didnt like that.
>
>
> vnz
The rotating disc area of a large diameter prop at slow speeds is
actually higher. Try landing at idle vs dead stick and see the
difference.
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dale seitzer <dalemseitzer(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Final Report From NTSB |
The final report for the fatal crash of Chuck Veith
and his Slingshot (N56CV) has been released by the
NTSB. They made no overt causiality statements--they
observed the vents for the fuel tanks were put
together and it was unattached and could have come
into contact with the neoprene fuel tank tray liner
and sealed the vent--creating a vacumm and starving
the engine of fuel. There was also some level of
marijuana in his blood and urine--I am not sure how
much would be needed to impair his judgement and
performance.
Dale Seitzer
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincehallam(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly prop continued... |
Sure Raslph is correct , but mine wouldnt stop dead it just declutche.d and
windmilled. I would have preferred more power ,direct drive, no gear box
hassle,and cheaper smaller prop,Did any of you see the uprated Lazair with
two single cylinder rotax {177 I think} and with two props per motor arranged
not criss cross,but biplane fashion ,cheap 28 inch carbon fibre model
aircraft !!!!
vnz
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | compression test is not a valid check for stuck rings |
| From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
10/14/2002 08:41:20 AM
>Get a compression tester like it says in the following article $25. If
your
>rings are stuck your compression should be down from factory specs and if
>it ain't broke don't fix it.
I can't follow who said what in the post this came from, and it's not
important to know who said it, but I need to add something here:
You can have good compression and have a stuck ring. Read that again. The
582 has 2 rings. The top Dykes will not stick until the carbon gets really
bad. But the bottom one will stick, on the intake side, fully compressed
into the ring groove. The lower ring acts as a stabilizer for the piston,
along with a backup for less blowby, and other technical reasons I don't
understand. An observant operator will detect the slap that starts after
the bottom ring sticks. At this point you will still measure 135 lbs of
compression, assuming the bore is healthy. As this condition is continued,
the piston will be ruined and the lower ring permanently welded into the
groove, and eventually the cylinder will begin suffering. THEN you will
start to see compression reduction. TOO LATE.
This information comes direct to you from my experience.
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Props and drives for cuyuna powered ULTRASTAR |
We seem to have gotten away from the original question a bit and really
have not addressed the limiting factors involved with the Ultrastar.The max diameter
of the prop on the Ultrastar is 50 inches. There were problems with the
2.04 to 1 belt drives with slipping under some conditions due to regular v
belts and the smaller diameter of the driving pulley. The solution to the problem
was the cog belt but the best ratio for the Ultrastar was not produced due
to low demand or possible engineering or both....don't know.... I do know the
3 blade Warp Drive did work even though I know I may be in unknown territory
with the Cuyuna with the mass involved with this prop but I think the shortness
of the blades is working in my favor ..The only ratio 2SI makes in this cog
belt drive is 2.5 to 1 and not 2.58 as I previously stated and was corrected.
.....(you guys are sharp).......
Bottom line. The 2.5 to1 cog belt works ok with the 50 inch 3 blade Warp
Drive on the ULTRASTAR ........with reservations as to reliability due to weight......
You are experimenting.......I am going to try a 3 bladed Ivoprop in
50 inch diameter on my new ULTRASTAR but fear I may not be able to crank in enough
pitch. That was never a problem with the Warp system......... GSC or Powerfin
? ? ?
My experiece with 2 blade versus 3 blade is only based on experience with
cropdusting....It seems that a 2 blade almost always is a better performer on
the same airframe........BUT, you have to qualify that to the type of performance
requirements you are trying to achieve.....short takeoff , heavy load........and
fastest cruise attainable(constant speed required)...The turbines are
definitely using multiple blades.......but lets not go there...
Thanks to everyone
for the info...
Ultrastar
Ed in Western NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Olenik" <olenik-aviation(at)buyitsellitfixit.com> |
| Subject: | Props and drives for cuyuna powered ULTRASTAR |
With such a small propeller, the Warp Drive will probably work just fine as
far as propeller inertia goes. I missed the small diameter initially. The
inertia of such a small prop should be relatively low even with a Warp
Drive.
If you wanted to spend the money, 2SI does have a gearbox that will work on
that engine as well that is available in a 2.04:1 ratio. It cost's $769.
Tom Olenik
Olenik Aviation
http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Edward Steuber
Subject: Kolb-List: Props and drives for cuyuna powered ULTRASTAR
We seem to have gotten away from the original question a bit and
really have not addressed the limiting factors involved with the
Ultrastar.The max diameter of the prop on the Ultrastar is 50 inches. There
were problems with the 2.04 to 1 belt drives with slipping under some
conditions due to regular v belts and the smaller diameter of the driving
pulley. The solution to the problem was the cog belt but the best ratio for
the Ultrastar was not produced due to low demand or possible engineering or
both....don't know.... I do know the 3 blade Warp Drive did work even
though I know I may be in unknown territory with the Cuyuna with the mass
involved with this prop but I think the shortness of the blades is working
in my favor ..The only ratio 2SI makes in this cog belt drive is 2.5 to 1
and not 2.58 as I previously stated and was corrected. .....(you guys are
sharp).......
Bottom line. The 2.5 to1 cog belt works ok with the 50 inch 3 blade
Warp Drive on the ULTRASTAR ........with reservations as to reliability due
to weight...... You are experimenting.......I am going to try a 3 bladed
Ivoprop in 50 inch diameter on my new ULTRASTAR but fear I may not be able
to crank in enough pitch. That was never a problem with the Warp
system......... GSC or Powerfin ? ? ?
My experiece with 2 blade versus 3 blade is only based on experience
with cropdusting....It seems that a 2 blade almost always is a better
performer on the same airframe........BUT, you have to qualify that to the
type of performance requirements you are trying to achieve.....short takeoff
required)...The turbines are definitely using multiple blades.......but lets
not go there...
Thanks to everyone for the info...
Ultrastar Ed in Western NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org> |
| Subject: | Beware of rivets. |
I am rebuilding a Kolb US and am replacing all the carbon steel rivets
with
stainless steel. I have purchased approximately 2000 rivets from AC Spruce
over the past year. Some I ordered by phone and others I picked up at the
Griffin store because I live about 70 miles from there and if I'm going by
it for some reason, I'll stop by and pick up parts I need.
I began to notice that some (a lot) of the rivets I had replaced were
rusting. Stainless doesn't rust, right? So U took a magnet and went
through my rivet bins and found that it picked up 80 to 90% of the rivets.
As I examined the remaining rivets I noticed a slight variation in the
coloration between the ones picked up by the magnet and the ones left
behind. The ones picked up by the magnet are steel but I have no idea what
kind. What I ordered were Cherry Commercial, type N, Cat. numbers
CCP-42, -44 and -46. The first C means stainless rivet, the second C means
stainless mandrel and the P means protruding. 42 is 1/8" length, 44 is 1/4"
and 46 is 3/8". All are 1/8" dia. I contacted AC Spruce and they are
looking into the matter but I haven't heard anything. This means most of
the rivets I have replaced will have to be replaced again. Thank goodness
for the high humidity in south Georgia or I would not have known the
difference and covered them up.
Check your rivets closely if you ordered from AC Spruce. A magnet will not
pick up the stainless ones.
I've tried ordering from Klob but it takes so long to get small orders which
is all I have ordered from them. Haven't ordered a kit. I ordered some
Kolb stickers from them almost a month ago and haven't gotten them yet. I
have checked the status of my order online using the order number and cc
number several times and it told me my order is waiting to be shipped.
Finally I called then and some guy answered the phone, I told him of my
problem and he said he would find my order and let me know within an hour.
I never heard from him again. Finally I emailed them and after five days
got a response from Linda saying that my order has been shipped on Oct. 9th
but I haven't seen it yet.
Dale Sellers
Georgia Ultra Star.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly prop continued... |
> I'm not an engineer and I don't really know
> what I'm talking about - but
> It always helps to take things to the extreme
> to test your theory.
> Posssum
Possum/Gang:
Coulda fooled me. :-)
Stan has been playing with those high powered earth magnets too much.
Everytime he does, he starts talking like an aeronautical engineer.
I certainly am not an engineer. More a "shade tree" homebuilder/aviator. But
I'll put my old Mark III up against anyone else's Kolb anytime. I think the
difference between us "shade tree" types and "actual" engineers (and wannabie
engineers) is experimentation until we get it like we want it. We can not
prove sh_t on paper, but we can in performance.
Warp Drive does a lot of work for airboats with very large displacement
aircraft and automobile engines. In order to harness all that horsepower and
turn it into performance they go to multiple blade props because they are
limited in diameter. Warp Drive can provide you with an airboat prop with 12
blades and 80" diameter.
From experience flying Kolbs, both 2 cycle and 4, the 3 blade combination
provides a little "quieter", or should I say less noise, performance. Biggest
advantage is less vibration.
One big plus for the Warp Drive is durability/reliability. They are solid
carbon fiber, no wood or foam fillers with glass shells. I realize everyone
does not need this kind of prop. However, if you ever lose a prop inflight
due to a small muffler bolt going through it, you will, at the time, wish you
were flying with Warp Drive. Sorta like those balistic parachutes, don't need
them until ou need them.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly prop continued... |
> one undesirable effect of a large diameter
> geared prop is that if you have
> engine failure the wnd milling drag is very
> hiigh.|Ihad a flex wing with a
> small 200 cc geared motor on a 6 foot
> prop....If I throttled right back for
> glide approach the glide ratio went rihgt down
> to about 2 to 1 even with
> the prop declutched.Didnt like that.
>
>
> vnz
Vince/Guys:
Most UL engines do not windmill when they fail. Probably the "declutched" 6
ft prop is the reason your 200cc geared motor windmilled. I find an idling
engine produces much more drag than "dead stick". This is one good reason to
practice actual dead stick landings. The rules of the game change drastically
from idling to windmilling. One will be surprised at how well their Kolb
glides with dead stick. Can get into just as much trouble when a Kolb with
engine failure does not want to land as a Kolb that does not glide as far as
one would desire. :-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firefly prop...Conclusions?????? |
This discussion is VERY, VERY interesting fellas...many thanks and keep it up,
as I have no doubts that the expieriences shared here are of great value to
new Kolb builder/owners. or actually, anyone who is contemplating their prop needs!
Now...let me see if I have this correct.
1: We cannot operate a propellor anywhere near its highest effiecency with a 35
to 40 hp 2 stroke, such as the 447 or ULII-02. the warpdrive tipspeed calculator
says 90"prop at 6500 engine rpm (with a 2.5/1 PSRU)..or 8500 rpm's with a 66"prop..
neither of these choices are viable. recaculating with a 2 to 1 reduction gets
closer..but much more expensive.
2: The comparison to the C-130...with more than enough hp to overspeed the prop,
seems valid in showing that when the power is available, you must increase the
number
of blades to use the power available ,and we cant do that either, as we dont have
the juice.
3: IF...generally speaking..a 66 2 blade is used on this combination, the engine
will pull it at a higher pitch setting
than a 60" 3 blade , which will result in a higher top speed, but less climb preformance
(?)
4: CONVERSLY...if a 6O 3 blade is used, it will result in faster accelleration,
and faster climb than a 66 in 2blade ,but
lower top speed (?) generally speaking...( and a higher cruise rpm ?)
5: Warp-drive props have a higher mass than others and tend to be hard on crankshafts.
(I have heard this before and always wondered why so many cranks fail in this
biz)
If I can draw any conclusion ...so far...is might be that because we are all generally
limited to a relativly low hp,and
are loading our engines to the max rpm with adjustable pitch settings, So from
all
I know from my GA expierience...it looks like a inflight adjustable is what is
called for.
now we are really talking expensive. So we are all compromising towards wheather
we want a high top speed,
or a fast climb....hmmmmmmm what do I want??????
I Tend to like Tom's opinion that a 68 2 blade might be just the ticket..but dont
know if it will fit, could be thats why the manual mentions a 66 on
a firefly....still, I am not sure if I understand why it might not "climb out"
as well ... is it engine/prop rpm level at the higher pitch might not be achieved
by the hp avail?
KInda like ..taking off in second gear?
Can we hear from some Firestar/Firefly owners as to what they are using, and what
performance numbers they achieve?
Maybe anyone who has used both the 60 3 blade and the 66 2 blade..or a similiar
deal on the same engine. (I really like Richards post,
VERY helpful)
Anyone who thinks I have misunderstood..or drawn the wrong conclusions....PLEASE
speak out!
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <hawk36(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beware of rivets. |
Dale/Gang:
Kolb did not use SS rivets when I started building. Experience with my
Ultrastar indicated I needed SS because the carbon steel rivets rusted. In
1986, I built my Firestar with SS rivets. Had to scrounge them up myself. By
the time I got to the Mark III in 1991, old Kolb had changed over to SS.
First thing I found out about SS rivets was the mandrels were carbon steel. I
had left over carbon and SS rivets. In order to insure I had not gotten them
mixed up, and I was indeed using SS, I did the magnet test. Uh oh! Magnet
picked up SS rivets because they had carbon steel mandrels. To do the test
correctly, must take out the mandrel and then stick the magnet to the rivet.
Now SS rivets don't get attracted to the magnet.
Based on some experience and serious testing over the years, SS rivets with
carbon steel mandrels work well. Couple years ago my wings got quite a bit of
water in them while in temporary storage, leaning up against the outside wall
of the hanger at Muncho Lake, BC. Was concerned that I might have to pull
fabric from both wings to inspect and/or replace corroded rivets. After
pulling fabric from the damaged wing it was evident that the rivets had
survived their bath in BC and the humidity in Alabama over their 8 year life,
at that time.
What I had done, during construction, was dab some epoxy chromate primer on
all the rivets I could get to before I covered the wings. It worked.
Cherry rivets are extremely expensive. I have no nomenclature for the
"commercial" SS rivets we have been using over the years, but they do a
excellent job, based on flying my Mark III for 11 years and over 1,700 hours.
Miss P'fer has spent a lot of that time in extremely inclement weather. I
feel she has been thoroughly tested.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firefly prop continued... |
| From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
10/13/02 22:39possums
> What manual?? - and remember that you are dragging 4 props around that circle.
> 4 props creates 4 times the drag and uses a "wee wee bit" more power-
> why not use an 8 blade prop or a 16 blade Prop?
=================================
As I mentioned it is better to have the least amount of blades (mass) to
swing around (less weight to loft) with the least amount of parasitic drag.
The more blades the more of both. However I am thinking about the M3X that I
am building and a 100hp direct drive motor. In practical matters it seems to
me that a 4 blade prop would work out to be the ideal (excluding cost and
weight)). In certified aircraft the minimum clearance between a prop and any
part of an aircraft is only 2 inches. Considering the flexibility of the
stracture in a kolb I would like a lot more. A two or 3 blade prop may not
provide that. Again the drag that you mention has to do with *Wing Area* and
the airfoil plane form. If all things are held equal the drag will be the
same for a 2 blade and a 6 blade. That is why you can go to a smaller
diameter prop with same wing area (with the qualifier that all the rest is
held the same). One of the adventages of more blades is that we can
proportionally go to a smaller diameter prop and automatically hold tip
speed lower for same engine rpm, and thus staying away from that tip over
speed condition, that will rob us of thrust (prop lift). One other problem
with a multi blade prop is the undisturbed air just front of the blade.
the more blades the lesser is the uniformity of the airflow striking the
succeding blade, as there is less spacing between them. The ideal prop for a
Kolb (any aircraft) would be fewer blades and a constant speed prop, as it
would solve most of the problems of inflight inefficiency. That is too
expensive for most of us, so some educated experimentaion is in order. No
fixed pitch prop will give you ideal efficiency outside of a very small band
of RPM. The decision we have to make is what we want most of the time, or
for a particular flight, and then set blade angle for it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org> |
| Subject: | Beware of rivets. |
I agree with everything you said, but according to the catalog specs., these
rivets are supposed to have SS mandrels therefore; the magnet would not pick
them up,
Dale.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
hawk36(at)mindspring.com
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Beware of rivets.
Dale/Gang:
Kolb did not use SS rivets when I started building. Experience with my
Ultrastar indicated I needed SS because the carbon steel rivets rusted. In
1986, I built my Firestar with SS rivets. Had to scrounge them up myself.
By
the time I got to the Mark III in 1991, old Kolb had changed over to SS.
First thing I found out about SS rivets was the mandrels were carbon steel.
I
had left over carbon and SS rivets. In order to insure I had not gotten
them
mixed up, and I was indeed using SS, I did the magnet test. Uh oh! Magnet
picked up SS rivets because they had carbon steel mandrels. To do the test
correctly, must take out the mandrel and then stick the magnet to the rivet.
Now SS rivets don't get attracted to the magnet.
Based on some experience and serious testing over the years, SS rivets with
carbon steel mandrels work well. Couple years ago my wings got quite a bit
of
water in them while in temporary storage, leaning up against the outside
wall
of the hanger at Muncho Lake, BC. Was concerned that I might have to pull
fabric from both wings to inspect and/or replace corroded rivets. After
pulling fabric from the damaged wing it was evident that the rivets had
survived their bath in BC and the humidity in Alabama over their 8 year
life,
at that time.
What I had done, during construction, was dab some epoxy chromate primer on
all the rivets I could get to before I covered the wings. It worked.
Cherry rivets are extremely expensive. I have no nomenclature for the
"commercial" SS rivets we have been using over the years, but they do a
excellent job, based on flying my Mark III for 11 years and over 1,700
hours.
Miss P'fer has spent a lot of that time in extremely inclement weather. I
feel she has been thoroughly tested.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ghaley" <ghaley(at)wt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 10/12/02 |
Charles, my cell number is: 713-725-4112, Home:281-304-7017.
Address: 14529 N. Dry Creek Drive, Cypress TX (Dry Creek
Airport). Let me know where your airplane is based. It may
be that I can fly to your location, if not, you are more
than welcome to come to my home and hanger for a ride. How
much do you weigh? My passenger limit is 185 Lb's. If our
weight is out of limits you should still let me give you
some ground instruction, Kolbs are different. I am a CFII
and have been for 30+ years.
Gary Haley, Kolb Mark III, N100GH
> Gary, I had hoped we could get together by now, but I've
> been out of the country for the last three weeks and just
> got back yesterday. I very much would like to take you up
> on your offer for a ride in your plane, as I am planning
> to fly mine for the first time in the next few days. If
> you will give me your phone number again, I'll give you a
> call. My number here is 713-532-0150.
> Look forward to meeting you... Charles White
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Armstrong" <cen33475(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beware of rivets. |
not all stainless steels are non-magnetic...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Beware of rivets.
>
> I agree with everything you said, but according to the catalog specs.,
these
> rivets are supposed to have SS mandrels therefore; the magnet would not
pick
> them up,
>
> Dale.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> hawk36(at)mindspring.com
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Beware of rivets.
>
>
> Dale/Gang:
>
> Kolb did not use SS rivets when I started building. Experience with my
> Ultrastar indicated I needed SS because the carbon steel rivets rusted.
In
> 1986, I built my Firestar with SS rivets. Had to scrounge them up myself.
> By
> the time I got to the Mark III in 1991, old Kolb had changed over to SS.
>
> First thing I found out about SS rivets was the mandrels were carbon
steel.
> I
> had left over carbon and SS rivets. In order to insure I had not gotten
> them
> mixed up, and I was indeed using SS, I did the magnet test. Uh oh!
Magnet
> picked up SS rivets because they had carbon steel mandrels. To do the
test
> correctly, must take out the mandrel and then stick the magnet to the
rivet.
> Now SS rivets don't get attracted to the magnet.
>
> Based on some experience and serious testing over the years, SS rivets
with
> carbon steel mandrels work well. Couple years ago my wings got quite a
bit
> of
> water in them while in temporary storage, leaning up against the outside
> wall
> of the hanger at Muncho Lake, BC. Was concerned that I might have to pull
> fabric from both wings to inspect and/or replace corroded rivets. After
> pulling fabric from the damaged wing it was evident that the rivets had
> survived their bath in BC and the humidity in Alabama over their 8 year
> life,
> at that time.
>
> What I had done, during construction, was dab some epoxy chromate primer
on
> all the rivets I could get to before I covered the wings. It worked.
>
> Cherry rivets are extremely expensive. I have no nomenclature for the
> "commercial" SS rivets we have been using over the years, but they do a
> excellent job, based on flying my Mark III for 11 years and over 1,700
> hours.
> Miss P'fer has spent a lot of that time in extremely inclement weather. I
> feel she has been thoroughly tested.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly prop continued... |
One other problem
> with a multi blade prop is the undisturbed air just front of the blade.
> the more blades the lesser is the uniformity of the airflow striking the
> succeding blade, as there is less spacing between them. for a
Consider that there are so many blades that the compressed air on one side
of one blade is in close proximity to the back side of the preceding blade.
This would also be a function of blade velocity. Loss of lift, thrust?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org> |
| Subject: | Beware of rivets. |
That may be true but no stainless rivets rust, right?
Dale
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Christopher
Armstrong
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Beware of rivets.
not all stainless steels are non-magnetic...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Beware of rivets.
>
> I agree with everything you said, but according to the catalog specs.,
these
> rivets are supposed to have SS mandrels therefore; the magnet would not
pick
> them up,
>
> Dale.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> hawk36(at)mindspring.com
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Beware of rivets.
>
>
> Dale/Gang:
>
> Kolb did not use SS rivets when I started building. Experience with my
> Ultrastar indicated I needed SS because the carbon steel rivets rusted.
In
> 1986, I built my Firestar with SS rivets. Had to scrounge them up myself.
> By
> the time I got to the Mark III in 1991, old Kolb had changed over to SS.
>
> First thing I found out about SS rivets was the mandrels were carbon
steel.
> I
> had left over carbon and SS rivets. In order to insure I had not gotten
> them
> mixed up, and I was indeed using SS, I did the magnet test. Uh oh!
Magnet
> picked up SS rivets because they had carbon steel mandrels. To do the
test
> correctly, must take out the mandrel and then stick the magnet to the
rivet.
> Now SS rivets don't get attracted to the magnet.
>
> Based on some experience and serious testing over the years, SS rivets
with
> carbon steel mandrels work well. Couple years ago my wings got quite a
bit
> of
> water in them while in temporary storage, leaning up against the outside
> wall
> of the hanger at Muncho Lake, BC. Was concerned that I might have to pull
> fabric from both wings to inspect and/or replace corroded rivets. After
> pulling fabric from the damaged wing it was evident that the rivets had
> survived their bath in BC and the humidity in Alabama over their 8 year
> life,
> at that time.
>
> What I had done, during construction, was dab some epoxy chromate primer
on
> all the rivets I could get to before I covered the wings. It worked.
>
> Cherry rivets are extremely expensive. I have no nomenclature for the
> "commercial" SS rivets we have been using over the years, but they do a
> excellent job, based on flying my Mark III for 11 years and over 1,700
> hours.
> Miss P'fer has spent a lot of that time in extremely inclement weather. I
> feel she has been thoroughly tested.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly prop...Conclusions?????? |
>
>
>This discussion is VERY, VERY interesting fellas...many thanks and keep it
>up, as I have no doubts that the expieriences shared here are of great
value to
>new Kolb builder/owners. or actually, anyone who is contemplating their prop
>needs!
>Now...let me see if I have this correct.
>3: IF...generally speaking..a 66 2 blade is used on this combination, the
>engine will pull it at a higher pitch setting
>than a 60" 3 blade , which will result in a higher top speed, but less climb
>preformance (?)
>
>4: CONVERSLY...if a 6O 3 blade is used, it will result in faster
>accelleration, and faster climb than a 66 in 2blade ,but
>lower top speed (?) generally speaking...( and a higher cruise rpm ?)
>
>Anyone who thinks I have misunderstood..or drawn the wrong
>conclusions....PLEASE speak out!
>
>Don
A 60" three blade will probably be able to have as much pitch as a 66" two
blade because of it's smaller diameter, because the total load on the
engine will be about the same. If the pitch is the same, then it might seem
that the top speed will not be very different, because both props are
accelerating the air mass to about the same speed, except that the bigger
diameter prop will be moving a bigger air mass. That is why a 2 blade prop
will let you get good climb performance without losing top speed. You have
both large diameter (climb) and high pitch.(speed) But the high pitch may
hurt acceleration compared to a lower pitched, slightly smaller diameter 3
blade. Low pitched props generally accelerate a bit better, and most three
blade props for a given engine size will typically have lower pitch
settings than equivalent 2 blade props. So if you had a drag race, standing
start, time to climb between a 64" three blade and a 66" two blade, same
HP, the 3 blade would probably jump ahead the first 150-200 feet, and then
things would be about the same until you leveled off and went for top end,
both engines turning 6500rpm. Then I would expect the 2 blade to have a
slight edge. Or if you set the throttles to cruise at 5600 rpm, then I
would expect the 2 blade airplane to be a bit faster.
Diminishing returns: Anytime the prop is too long, then you have to take so
much pitch out of it to get it to turn up that your top speed is now also
your cruise speed, and you are cruising at 6500 rpm. You could put a 72"
three bladed prop on a 447 and get it to turn 6500 rpm by taking pitch out
of it, but your top speed would probably be about 40 mph. However it would
accelerate to that 40 mph speed real well!!
Bottom line: for general Kolb usage, we want the longest prop possible that
will still give us the cruise speed we want at the rpm we want. Trial and
error has shown me that a 66" 2 blade Ivo and 65 HP will give fair takeoff
and climb with excellent cruise at low rpm's. Doubtless the Warp, Powerfin,
GSC or others would also provide similar results. If you are willing to
turn higher rpm's in cruise, then a 68" or 70" two blade will probably give
you better takeoff and climbout. If you buy a prop that lends itself to
being trimmed down a bit at a time, then I would start big and work to
optimum, but not less than 66". Also, I used to have a 66" Warp on a dual
carb 503 with a 2.58:1 B box, and it also worked very well.
My opinion, and worth just what you paid for it.
(Thanks Beauford, I love that line!)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Propellor variables |
I'd like to throw another element into the pot on this discussion of
propellors. A Tbird pilot I know has some kind of centrifugal clutch device
on his 582. When the engine drops below 2500rpm, the drive connection with
the prop is "eliminated" and the prop windmills for a short time then stops.
This makes his idle very, very smooth and also makes starting the engine
seem much easier. Fundamentally, I like it and might consider adding one to
my own plane when the wallet becomes somewhat less anemic.
How would this affect the concern about crankshaft wear due to high inertia?
How would this affect the other considerations such as pitch and diameter?
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gherkins Tim-rp3420 <rp3420(at)motorola.com> |
| Subject: | Copperstate 2002 |
Stephan and Kolbers,
Stephan did a great report and I don't need to say much more in that as I was talking
to John Woods on Saturday when Will Uribe and Dave Rains walked up! We
talked for a while and Will gave me a CD with the Kolb fly-in pictures. Great
to see them there and finally meet Dave R.
The turn out at this years Copperstate was excellent! They announced over the
P.A. that in Copperstates 30 year history they had more planes attend on Friday,
braking the record for attendance. Saturday, there was even more planes!
It would take the whole day to see all the planes, vendors, and manufactures in
attendance.
Copperstate really turned out great this year and without a doubt will get better
in the years to come.
Mark it on your calendar for next year and come and enjoy some great weather and
an excellent event. By the way Lar, John Woods did fly his plane in from the
San Diego area. It took him five hours including fuel/pee stops.
Regards,
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: abbygirlk9 [mailto:abbygirlk9(at)netzero.net]
Subject: Kolb-List: Copperstate 2002
Hey Kolbers:
I just returned from the Copperstate Regional Fly-In today (it runs thru Sunday)
and after a one year absence it is alive and well. The last Copperstate
was well attended but was not permitted to return to the Williams-Gateway Airport
due to some squabble. This year it is being held at a new airfield that
is being built-up (privately) and my guess is that it is going to be a heck of
an event in future years. The reason I wanted to share this is to entice you
to attend next year as the Kolb planes were well represented ... John Woods from
California, Arizona Dave from ....? (Prescott, AZ), Jim from Tucson, Tim Gherkins
from the Phoenix area, myself (Stephen Feldmann from the Phoenix area)
another fellow I think from Tucson. I'm sorry to say that this last Kolb pilot
lost power approximately 1 mile out on approach then believe it or not completely
lost his elevator control before setting it down and pancaked in (and thankfully
walked away). I hope he doesn't mind me t!
elling this as I don't have all the info and did not talk to him but his Firefly
was badly damaged. I probably missed other Kolbers out there but like I said
we were present in force ....we really need to have a SW fly-in sometime, El
Paso (ya listening Dave & Will?) or here in AZ, or perhaps New Mexico. I enjoyed
talking at length with many of the Kolbers and got all pumped up to keep
working on my own FSII project. I bet that Tim Gherkins will give everyone more
info in a coming post.
Stephen
Firestar II, 400 hrs & counting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
How long has it been since you upgraded your virus signature file? If it's been
more than two or three days, it's time to do it again!
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | mistaken problem |
Sorry about my previous post about the question of props and drives for a Firefly....not
an Ultrastar
Confused Ed In Western NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Virus reminder |
My Mac doesn't seem to like viruses, hence I don't see the need to
upgrade my signature.
Same ol' Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Propellor variables |
In a message dated 10/14/02 2:46:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
kfackler(at)ameritech.net writes:
> I'd like to throw another element into the pot on this discussion of
> propellors. A Tbird pilot I know has some kind of centrifugal clutch device
> on his 582. When the engine drops below 2500rpm, the drive connection with
> the prop is "eliminated" and the prop windmills for a short time then
> stops.
> This makes his idle very, very smooth and also makes starting the engine
> seem much easier. Fundamentally, I like it and might consider adding one to
> my own plane when the wallet becomes somewhat less anemic.
>
>
A Mk III owner with a 582 installed a C box with clutch so that eventually he
could put floats on. He found that, if he has an engine-out, the prop
wind-mills & cuts his glide ratio severely. All that glitters..............
Shack
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate 2002 |
Good for him ! ! ! I know he wanted to fly it, badly, but, 2 yrs ago the
weather was iffy, and he didn't like to take the chance. It worked out for
the best, cause his excellent custom trailer drew a lot of attention. I'm
glad he made it this time. You should have seen the sensation that pretty
little yellow FireStar made at Flabob's Chapter 1 fly-in, when he flew it in
from San Diego a couple of years ago. When he parked it, all the fancy
classics, biplanes etc., were almost abandoned, and a crowd quickly formed
around him. He wasn't even unhooked/unplugged, and the questions were
coming thick and fast. It's a winner. Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gherkins Tim-rp3420" <rp3420(at)motorola.com>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Copperstate 2002
>
> Stephan and Kolbers,
> Stephan did a great report and I don't need to say much more in that as I
was talking to John Woods on Saturday when Will Uribe and Dave Rains walked
up! We talked for a while and Will gave me a CD with the Kolb fly-in
pictures. Great to see them there and finally meet Dave R.
> The turn out at this years Copperstate was excellent! They announced over
the P.A. that in Copperstates 30 year history they had more planes attend on
Friday, braking the record for attendance. Saturday, there was even more
planes! It would take the whole day to see all the planes, vendors, and
manufactures in attendance.
> Copperstate really turned out great this year and without a doubt will get
better in the years to come.
> Mark it on your calendar for next year and come and enjoy some great
weather and an excellent event. By the way Lar, John Woods did fly his
plane in from the San Diego area. It took him five hours including fuel/pee
stops.
>
> Regards,
> Tim
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: abbygirlk9 [mailto:abbygirlk9(at)netzero.net]
> To: Kolb List
> Subject: Kolb-List: Copperstate 2002
>
>
> Hey Kolbers:
> I just returned from the Copperstate Regional Fly-In today (it runs
thru Sunday) and after a one year absence it is alive and well. The last
Copperstate was well attended but was not permitted to return to the
Williams-Gateway Airport due to some squabble. This year it is being held
at a new airfield that is being built-up (privately) and my guess is that it
is going to be a heck of an event in future years. The reason I wanted to
share this is to entice you to attend next year as the Kolb planes were well
represented ... John Woods from California, Arizona Dave from ....?
(Prescott, AZ), Jim from Tucson, Tim Gherkins from the Phoenix area, myself
(Stephen Feldmann from the Phoenix area) another fellow I think from Tucson.
I'm sorry to say that this last Kolb pilot lost power approximately 1 mile
out on approach then believe it or not completely lost his elevator control
before setting it down and pancaked in (and thankfully walked away). I hope
he doesn't mind me t!
> elling this as I don't have all the info and did not talk to him but his
Firefly was badly damaged. I probably missed other Kolbers out there but
like I said we were present in force ....we really need to have a SW fly-in
sometime, El Paso (ya listening Dave & Will?) or here in AZ, or perhaps New
Mexico. I enjoyed talking at length with many of the Kolbers and got all
pumped up to keep working on my own FSII project. I bet that Tim Gherkins
will give everyone more info in a coming post.
>
> Stephen
> Firestar II, 400 hrs & counting
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Engine instruments |
I have a tach/egt in my Mark II, but I'd like to monitor engine hours, too.
I've heard some talk about a fairly inexpensive (and more importantly, easy
to install) device called a TinyTach that might be good.
What recommendations for an instrument do you all have? Preferably something
that a child of 10 could handle as that's about my level of mechanical
ability.
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
P.S. Please don't anyone suggest my watch. I want something more reliable
than my memory.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
Kolbers all:
My Mark II has a canopy design that I'd like to begin planning to change.
You know, a winter project as it were? The current canopy is all one sheet
of lexan, riveted in place at the centerline tube that comes down from the
wing gap and goes under the nosecone. Thus, when you open either "door,"
you're bending/flexing the lexan against the rivet points. Clearly this is
going to fail after enough up and down cycles. In fact, with polarized
glasses, one can already see stressing beginning to occur at the rivet
points.
I'd like to replace this system with something more like a true hinge,
though this could be something as simple as a velcro-based attachment
similar to that used on the Tbird. I'd hoped to be able to get to the Kolb
Fly-in and get some ideas for how to redo this, but alas, that was not
possible.
I'd appreciate any ideas, plans, sketches, verbal descriptions, photographs,
etc. that you all care to offer on a new, improved, lemon-scented,
April-fresh version of doors for my bird.
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Canopy designs |
Take a look at the gull wing doors on Vamoose. Click on the link in my
signature, below. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Canopy designs
>
> Kolbers all:
>
> My Mark II has a canopy design that I'd like to begin planning to change.
> You know, a winter project as it were? The current canopy is all one sheet
> of lexan, riveted in place at the centerline tube that comes down from the
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
Does anyone have information on designing, building and installing
spades on the ailerons instead of balancing rods?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Props: Science, Mystery & Bunk |
Kolbers,
I love prop talk! Here's some of my experiences:
When my old UltraStar was stll mostly stock, I started to put a shrouded fan
setup on it to overcome the limitations of a 50" prop. After much research
& punching through the numbers, I discovered there was much more thrust to
be gained by modestly increasing the prop area, than by building a shrouded
fan. The simple fact is that thrust is primarily deternined by the area of
the prop. To "take it to the extreme" as it was suggested, look at an
ultralite helicopter with a 65hp engine matched to a 30ft propellor. That
configuration will lift the plane straight up on thrust alone! No amount of
wide cord, multi-bladed, high velocity 60-72" propellors will even approach
that performance. Its all in the disk area, You increase the length prop
by 50% & the disk area quaddruples. The shrouded fan would of provided great
acceleration with a alot of complexity & added weight, all the while
muffling the prop noise & looking a little like a wooky mobile. This sounds
great at first but if you just keep it simple & add 5" to each end of the
lowly 50" UltraStar prop It will hands down outperform the 50" shrouded
prop.Besides, the shrouded prop runs out of hummf when the speeds approach
80-90mph. With this great ha ha! experience, I trashed the shrouded prop
for a 60" 3-blade Precision wood propellor, ground adjustable. I inlaid a
6061T6 p-tip into the tips of the 3 blades. They added 12% thrust,
increased climb 12% & cut down fuel burn 12% at cruise & I could cruise at
the same speed with 12% less rpm. All of this free gain was added to the
10% gain from going form 50" to 60". My belittled & ridiculed little Cuyuna
put out 275Lb of hot summuer heat thrust to take away the chanpionship belt
from the previous Kolb TwinStar champ with a dual carb 503 swinging a 70"
wood 2-blade prop set for climb when mine was set for cruise. I set it once
for 310lb of thrust, static. It shot out like a roket but wouldn't fly past
40mph!
To fit that prop on the UltraStar I had to put a Rotax 2.58 B drive
pointing down & dropped the engine mount several inches. Now the prop
cleared the boom tube but stuck in the grass. So I needed a reason to raise
her up anyway & give her long & sexy legs to absorb all those nasty bumps,
as well as relieve my prop from grass cuting duty. It was a great combo. It
out climbed most 503'S & many 532 -582s.
2nd thought: Some prop manufacturers make one airfoil shape to fit all
props-- they just cut them short or long & twist them more or less to
pretend it is a matched prop for your system. Props have many variables &
people (dealers included) routinely compare apples to oranges & promise
meaningless results. Props need to be spesifically configured to your
airplane its power its speed envelope & your prefered qualities of
performance. Then these will be managed or shall we say compromised, to
achieve the result you want in the most important area , because everything
is a trade off.
Make sure your prop has helix (twist) built into it. where it starts
course near the hub & flattens out toward the tip. This is so the tip
stalls first, as it is more flexible & twists out to a greater angle of
attack as speed is incresed.
This is why cutting off the tips of props can be a crude thing to do. If it
was matched to your power & circle, then you will be chomping away at that
nice helix. Unless of course you have an UltraProp that has no helix & is
just a straight airfoil the length of the blade. Its hard to make an
UltraProp work worse than normal, but they are the best at cutting grass-
can't hardly destroy them.
Props are often (should be) opotimised for your engines power, ie, it
will be set at an optimal angle of attack. If you try to use it on a lower
hp engine, it will never work well, because the angle of attack will become
too shallow, even driving the tip negative.
So it is only when 2 props are optimised for the same power, circle &
rpm that you compare there performence, since they both then will be
operating at their optimal angle of attack & tip speed. Then 2 vs 3 blade
can be meanigfully compared. Propellors are both a science and and art,
they have a quantity of mystery in them but they are much more so logical.
2 vs 3 blade? 2 will put out the greatest static thrust, but not so
much that it is real obvious, A 3 blade is 50% quieter than a 2 blade & it
is smother because of the 120 degree distribution of the power plus it takes
the burbles off the wing in 1/3 pieces instead of 1/2 pieces giving smoother
airflow & therefore maybe more effecient flow
The longer your prop the more effecient it will be period. If a longer prop
performs less on your plane, then the distributor did not configure it to
your plane correctly. The thickness of the airfoil, the chord, the taper,
the helix & the optimum angle of attack for that blade all must match your
system.
Lastly, an area I have no experience in, but very trusted people have
told me a longer prop is best for slower speeds & climbouts. And a smaller
diameter prop is better for highspeeds (80+mph). I can only assume this is
true when you don't have an inflighrt adjustable prop. The Reno racers are
not too quick to cut their props down!
Hope you enjoyed some of this mispelled meandersing late nite propellor
prognastication. I've met many a smart man who held views outside the
established circles. One never got past 6th grade, was self taught,
designed 2 airplanes from scratch & converted honda engines to fly them.
They were the most intriguing things I'd seen, except for his hanger door
that swung up all by itself. So if some prop guru gets in our face, we need
to stop & listen, cause it might be my backwoods buddy wanting to cut you a
prop like you never seen before!
...Richard Swiderski, Ocala FL
> >Now...let me see if I have this correct.
> >3: IF...generally speaking..a 66 2 blade is used on this combination, the
> >engine will pull it at a higher pitch setting
> >than a 60" 3 blade , which will result in a higher top speed, but less
climb
> >preformance (?)
> >
> >4: CONVERSLY...if a 6O 3 blade is used, it will result in faster
> >accelleration, and faster climb than a 66 in 2blade ,but
> >lower top speed (?) generally speaking...( and a higher cruise rpm ?)
> >
> >Anyone who thinks I have misunderstood..or drawn the wrong
> >conclusions....PLEASE speak out!
> >
> >Don
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjung(at)sgmmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airspeed calibration |
Ken and Group,
I haven't found a way to get an airspeed to work correctly in my
Firestar. I would have to subtract 10 mph at 80 and 2 mph at 40. I have
just gotten used to it. For faster speeds, I use the GPS and for stall
speeds, I just keep track of what spped is indicated when the plane
salls. A static port out the front with tiny side holes did not come close.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airspeed calibration |
One rather crude solution might be to repaint the scale to match the
pointer,assuming the pointer is consistant in it's position relative to
actual airspeed. If one is particularly artistic it might come out ok. I
have done this with Volt and Amp meters with success. Kirk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airspeed calibration |
>
>Ken and Group,
>
>I haven't found a way to get an airspeed to work correctly in my
>Firestar. I would have to subtract 10 mph at 80 and 2 mph at 40. I have
>just gotten used to it. For faster speeds, I use the GPS and for stall
>speeds, I just keep track of what spped is indicated when the plane
>salls. A static port out the front with tiny side holes did not come close.
>
>John Jung
>
>
Everyone,
I find this interesting because I my air speed indicator(s) have always read about
10 mph too slow. I brought the dynamic port out on top of the FireFly nose
cone to keep myself and others from walking into and bending it. At first,
I left the static port open back of the instrument panel. Then I put side static
ports on the side of the nose cone, and this helped a little but over time
air speed indicator read slower and slower. At this point I replaced the air
speed indicator. Finally I put a static port on top of the dynamic probe. But
the indicated air speed never came close to an average of up and down wind gps
speeds.
In an attempt to increase air velocity over the static source holes and to locally
reduce the static pressure, I clipped and bent a little piece of aluminum
flashing and placed it over the static probe as an air dam just a head of the
little cross holes. It worked and the indicated air speed followed the average
of up and down wind gps speeds very nicely. My camera is in the shop, but when
it comes back I will take a photo and put it up on:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly36.html
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gherkins Tim-rp3420 <rp3420(at)motorola.com> |
Woody,
Don't delete the balancing rods from your ailerons. They are there to prevent
flutter and only flutter. Spades without the balancing rods may help influence
flutter. Always have your rods attached, then add spades to your rods or any
part of your aileron at or beyond the hinge line to lesson the load on stick
forces when in flight(I know you know that).
I have looked at and thought about spade devices and was going to play with them
when I get up and flying in the near future. I am going to drill two bolt holes
at the end of my balancing rods and bend up some pieces of aluminum to mount
on the rod with bolts. Warning though, start off with little pieces and work
up to larger. Hate to have your roll control over whelmed/locked with the
spade devices if made to large.
Regards,
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: Woody [mailto:duesouth(at)govital.net]
Subject: Kolb-List: spades
Does anyone have information on designing, building and installing
spades on the ailerons instead of balancing rods?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
Hey fellas,
Dennis Souder made a comment about this a long while back when
it came up then that spades were not a good idea. 1 point he made was
that they will allow the pilot to put more stress on the trailing edge
of the wing that it was designed to handle and secondly that the tip (as
in mounting then on the balance rod) was a bad idea because the airflow
around the tip is turbulent and will likely cause buffeting (or at least
make them less effective). All the planes I know that have spades have
them mounted very close to the inboard end of the aileron (assuming a
flapped wing) or better explanation being the mid-span of the wing.
Look back through the archives and get his exact wording, but I remember
thinking at the time, that that canned that idea (which I was mulling at
the same time)...
Fly Safe,
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gherkins
Tim-rp3420
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: spades
Woody,
Don't delete the balancing rods from your ailerons. They are there to
prevent flutter and only flutter. Spades without the balancing rods may
help influence flutter. Always have your rods attached, then add spades
to your rods or any part of your aileron at or beyond the hinge line to
lesson the load on stick forces when in flight(I know you know that).
I have looked at and thought about spade devices and was going to play
with them when I get up and flying in the near future. I am going to
drill two bolt holes at the end of my balancing rods and bend up some
pieces of aluminum to mount on the rod with bolts. Warning though,
start off with little pieces and work up to larger. Hate to have your
roll control over whelmed/locked with the spade devices if made to
large.
Regards,
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: Woody [mailto:duesouth(at)govital.net]
Subject: Kolb-List: spades
Does anyone have information on designing, building and installing
spades on the ailerons instead of balancing rods?
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Armstrong" <cen33475(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | propeller efficiency |
The term that you guys are talking about is propeller solidity and is, along
with diameter, pitch, twist, chord width and airfoil sections determine the
performance of a propeller at each rpm and forward airspeed. (another
variable is angle of incidence, but that only comes into play in steep
climbs.) the less solidity you have the less interference drag you have,
but you also can not absorb as much horsepower. a turbine fan can absorb a
lot of power, it has solidity greater then 1, greater then 2 even in some
cases as the blades overlap more then half.
Here is the basics of picking a prop. Largest diameter you can get without
exceeding mach .92 at the tips, ( you need to account for forward velocity
and acceleration due to airfoil thickness (critical Mach number)). Next you
need enough solidity to absorb your horsepower. You can generate solidity
with larger chord or more blades, doesn't really matter because higher
aspect
ratio blades are more efficient and less blades are more efficient.... so
you cant win! pitch the prop to match the angle of attack you need to
generate lift in the efficient range of the props airfoil at the airspeed
you want best efficiency at. all other airspeeds will have worse
efficiency or generate zero or negative thrust, as the aoa seen by the prop
goes past stall or negative. and that's it. of course the large range of
props that will fit each situation leave you with nothing but giving several
a try to determine which is the best.... generally if you want to fly fast
you spin a smaller prop at higher rpm with more pitch and solidity (smaller
is relative here the fastest prop planes are the mustangs, with something
like 10-12 foot diameter props). at low speed you can use a larger
diameter less solidity and less pitch and rpm.
not sure that's helpful or not.
Topher
> Actually the accleration that one sees is the by-product of lift being
> produced. The objective is *not* to accelerate the air, the objective is
to
> produce lift, and that is done by the airfoil of the prop blade...... has
nothing much to do
> with the acceleration that was imparted to the air.
actually lift is the acceleration of the air. you throw the air back by a
force we call lift...which is defined as the acceleration of air's mass to a
certain velocity.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Airspeed calibration |
| From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
10/15/02 6:51John Jung
>
> Ken and Group,
>
> I haven't found a way to get an airspeed to work correctly in my
> Firestar. I would have to subtract 10 mph at 80 and 2 mph at 40. I have
> just gotten used to it. For faster speeds, I use the GPS and for stall
> speeds, I just keep track of what spped is indicated when the plane
> salls. A static port out the front with tiny side holes did not come close.
>
> John Jung
>===========================
Have you tried a longer pitot tube? Try making your tube longer or place it
at a different spot. There could be some airflow problems near the tube that
can cause those errant readings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim and Phyllis Hefner" <hefners_tucson(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly prop |
Don, I fly a Firefly with a 66" 2-blade IVO. Originally it was set for 6200
static and the firefly climbed like a bandit (over 1000'fpm). Six months
ago I changed the pitch to give it more bite (+2 degrees) for better cruise
at lower RPM. Now I can fly along nicely at 4450rpm at 50+ ASI. The other
factor helping slow cruise is VG's. I put VG's on the wings soon after I
changed the pitch. The VG's lowered my MCA from 45 to 37. With the pitch
setting I have now, I still climbout at over 600fpm, which is plenty. I'm
most interested in cruise efficiency and cruising at 4500rpm is great. I
have a prop balancer installed and the 447 is as smoothe as silk throughout
the rpm range. With my low rpm cruise, I have to watch for the rpm range
where the exhaust tuning mismatch happens, which increases EGT's. I avoid
throttle settings between 4200-4400 and everything is fine.
I was at Copperstate this past weekend and on my return to SanManuel from
PRA, I was cruising at 4800rpm at 65-75 the whole way, with a few knots of
tailwind help at times. My CHT runs at 250 and EGT's at 950o during cruise,
after rejetting the carb to get the temps up. For me the 2 blade IVO is
ideal with the 447. I'm not a scientist on prop theory, but experimented
with ideas I got from Jack Hart's website - both the VG's and prop setting
info. Many thanks to Jack for all the great info he provides!
Hope this info helps you.
Jim Hefner
Tucson, AZ
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Firefly prop...Conclusions??????
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2002 10:35:29 -0500
This discussion is VERY, VERY interesting fellas...many thanks and keep it
up, as I have no doubts that the expieriences shared here are of great value
to
new Kolb builder/owners. or actually, anyone who is contemplating their prop
needs!
Can we hear from some Firestar/Firefly owners as to what they are using, and
what performance numbers they achieve?
Maybe anyone who has used both the 60 3 blade and the 66 2 blade..or a
similiar deal on the same engine. (I really like Richards post,
VERY helpful)
Anyone who thinks I have misunderstood..or drawn the wrong
conclusions....PLEASE speak out!
Don
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hans van Alphen" <HVA(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re:RK400 Clutch Failure |
Hey All,
A couple of weeks ago my RK400 centrifugal clutch from Airtech failed in
flight.
I have used this clutch for 60 hours on my fourstroke BMW engine and the
Rotax C 3:1 gearbox. I have had two previous failures of the retaining
springs, but they were uneventful since they only lock up the clutch and you
keep flying.
But my last failure was more serious.... I was testing a new 68" Ivo
ultralight 3 blade electric inflight adjustable prop. and collecting data at
different pitches and power settings. As I was at 1200 feet near my
airstrip, I cranked in the full amount of pitch and my rpm went down to
about 4500. The clutch slipped.... and resulted in overreving the engine and
bending an exhaust valve, losing compression in that cylinder. Landed on one
cylinder without incidence and taxied home.
The manufacturer said they never had a failure and it was tested up to 110
hp at 8000 rpm. I can believe that because of the high rpm. but mine failed
at much lower rpm.
I don't think anyone would have a problem with this clutch except when used
with an inflight adjustable prop....be careful....
Three failures in 65 hours is to much for me, so I decided to look for an
alternative.
The reason I used the clutch in the first place was to eliminate low rpm
vibrations and it worked great to that extent.
I finally came to me that we in aviation are always trying to save weight
and overlook the fact that the more weight we add to the flywheel the
smoother it will run......
So I eliminated the 7 lbs.clutch and made a 9 inch ring of 3/4" steel and
bolted it to my lightened aluminum flywheel. The added mass weight 7.3 lbs.
The net difference in weight was almost identical, but now the mass was
concentrated near the outside of the flywheel instead of the center.
The result... it now idles smooth at 1200 rpm. with the prop
installed....and no clutch.
The moral of the story....FLYWHEEL MASS.....I guess that's why we call our
airplanes EXPERIMENTAL....
Part of the rotax engine problems is the lack of a proper flywheel, 4 1/2"
and 3 lbs. doesn't cut it.
Let you all know the results of the inflight props....looks promising...
Hans van Alphen
Kolb Mark III Xtra
BMW powered
72 hours.
>
>In a message dated 10/14/02 2:46:38 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>kfackler(at)ameritech.net writes:
>
>
>> I'd like to throw another element into the pot on this discussion of
>> propellors. A Tbird pilot I know has some kind of centrifugal clutch
device
>> on his 582. When the engine drops below 2500rpm, the drive connection
with
>> the prop is "eliminated" and the prop windmills for a short time then
>> stops.
>> This makes his idle very, very smooth and also makes starting the engine
>> seem much easier. Fundamentally, I like it and might consider adding one
to
>> my own plane when the wallet becomes somewhat less anemic.
>>
>>
>
>A Mk III owner with a 582 installed a C box with clutch so that eventually
he
>could put floats on. He found that, if he has an engine-out, the prop
>wind-mills & cuts his glide ratio severely. All that
glitters..............
>
>Shack
>FS II
>SC
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds(at)macs.net> |
czech-list(at)matronics.com, europa-list(at)matronics.com, ez-list(at)matronics.com,
glasair-list(at)matronics.com, homebuilt-list(at)matronics.com,
kolb-list(at)matronics.com, kr-list(at)matronics.com, lancair-list(at)matronics.com,
pelican-list(at)matronics.com, pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com,
piper-list(at)matronics.com, pitts-list(at)matronics.com,
rocket-list(at)matronics.com, rv4-list(at)matronics.com, rv6-list(at)matronics.com,
rv7-list(at)matronics.com, rv8-list(at)matronics.com, sonerai-list(at)matronics.com,
tailwind-list(at)matronics.com, ultralight-list(at)matronics.com,
warbird-list(at)matronics.com, yak-list(at)matronics.com,
zenith-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | EAA Chapter 339 Fall Fly-In |
EAA Chapter 339 Fall Fly-In
Saturday, October 19, 2002, Hampton Roads Exec (PVG), Virginia, 9AM till
7PM
Hampton Roads Exec (PVG) is 13.5nm SW of Norfolk, Virginia (253 radial
(ORF)
AWOS 118.375
CTAF 123.0
The weather will really be a perfect Virginia fall day!
Aircraft parking is off taxiway between Rwy 23 and T-Hangars East of
Airport Terminal
Schedule of Events
Fly-In Begins 9AM
Food all Day 10AM - 3PM
Poker Run (Walk Around Field)
Project Visits on Field
Aircraft Judging 11AM - 3PM, All Categories, Antiques, Classics,
Homebuilts, Warbirds
Social Hour 4PM
Dinner 5PM - 7PM, BBQ Sandwiches, Chicken, Drinks
Local motels/hotels are available
For More Information
Frank Toy 757-460-3680
ftoy(at)att.net
Richard Reynolds 757-627-8743
rvreynolds(at)macs.net
EAA Chapter 339
http://home.earthlink.net/~avyator/
Hampton Roads Exec Airport
http://www.hamptonroadsexecutiveairport.com/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | prince p-tip props |
Continuing the prop discussions. Is anyone using the Prince P-tip prop on a
Kolb? The concept sounds appealing. The info in the Aircraft Spruce
catalog says "a fixed-pitch propeller that relies on the forward pull of the
prop to automatically provide pitch change proportional to the amount of
force being applied to the prop disk." Its drooped, anti-vortex tip also
causes purportedly less prop noise and more efficient volume of air. They
claim a 68" p-tip prop will produce the same volume of air as a standard 72"
prop.
It changes pitch by coning forward during takeoff and climb, decreasing the
pitch. Might this be a problem with prop strikes on a pusher? I don't know
if they even have props for pusher configurations.
I couldn't find a web site for Prince, but more info is on p. 163 in my
Aircraft Spruce catalog.
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prince p-tip props |
Clay,
sounds like you are talking about a symitar setup with winglets on the
tip. They are a very fine expensive wood prop that lives up to there good
reputation. I easily inlaid some p-tips into a Precision Propeller. The
tips droped the noise significantly & gave me 12% increase in performance.
I heard that Precicion Propeller has also come out with a simitar acting
blade. It would be cheaper plus you have the advantage of having a ground
adjustable prop-- the Prince-Tip is not adjustable. ...Richard Swiderski
>
> Continuing the prop discussions. Is anyone using the Prince P-tip prop on
a
> Kolb? The concept sounds appealing. The info in the Aircraft Spruce
> catalog says "a fixed-pitch propeller that relies on the forward pull of
the
> prop to automatically provide pitch change proportional to the amount of
> force being applied to the prop disk." Its drooped, anti-vortex tip also
> causes purportedly less prop noise and more efficient volume of air. They
> claim a 68" p-tip prop will produce the same volume of air as a standard
72"
> prop.
>
> It changes pitch by coning forward during takeoff and climb, decreasing
the
> pitch. Might this be a problem with prop strikes on a pusher? I don't
know
> if they even have props for pusher configurations.
>
> I couldn't find a web site for Prince, but more info is on p. 163 in my
> Aircraft Spruce catalog.
>
> Clay Stuart
> Danville KY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Props: Science, Mystery & Bunk |
In a message dated 10/15/02 12:27:25 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
swiderski@advanced-connect.net writes:
<< Hope you enjoyed some of this mispelled meandersing late nite propellor
prognastication. I've met many a smart man who held views outside the
established circles. One never got past 6th grade, was self taught,
designed 2 airplanes from scratch & converted honda engines to fly them.
They were the most intriguing things I'd seen, except for his hanger door
that swung up all by itself. So if some prop guru gets in our face, we need
to stop & listen, cause it might be my backwoods buddy wanting to cut you a
prop like you never seen before!
...Richard Swiderski, Ocala FL >>
you are good Richard, too bad I didn't get a chance to take you up on your
invite a coupla years ago at the Villages.
George Randolph
Firestar driver from Akron, O
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Airspeed calibration |
In a message dated 10/15/02 11:20:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jrjung(at)sgmmail.com writes:
<< Ken and Group,
I haven't found a way to get an airspeed to work correctly in my
Firestar. I would have to subtract 10 mph at 80 and 2 mph at 40. I have
just gotten used to it. For faster speeds, I use the GPS and for stall
speeds, I just keep track of what spped is indicated when the plane
salls. A static port out the front with tiny side holes did not come close.
John Jung
>>
I still just use a Hall Indicator mounted outside the nose cone bout 4 inches
out on the left. The standard swivel holder that comes with it enables easy
adjustment up down left or right for calibration. The only problem is a
spider tried to use it as his home, and the disc wouldn't move much.......I
hated that.
George Randolph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Removing a Stuck Landing Gear Leg |
Kolb Friends -
I am trying to remove a bent landing gear leg, but it is stuck good. Does
anybody know of a good trick for pulling one of these out?
Many thanks -
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, Verner-powered in
Cedar Crest, New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Removing a Stuck Landing Gear Leg |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
>
>
> Kolb Friends -
>
> I am trying to remove a bent landing gear leg, but it is stuck good.
> Does
> anybody know of a good trick for pulling one of these out?
>
> Many thanks -
>
> Dennis Kirby
> Mark-3, Verner-powered in
> Cedar Crest, New Mexico
Dennis,
One way is to wrap something around a pair of large vise grips (to keep
from marring up the leg too much) and clamping to the gear leg. Next
step, pound on the vise grips until the leg comes out.
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neilsen" <neilsenr(at)michigan.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing a Stuck Landing Gear Leg |
From personal experience I found that a slide hammer works. Cut the bent
part of the gear leg off, drill through the leg with a hole large
enough to get the slide hammer claws to grip in. Then pull it out.
My $.02 worth
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
>>> Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil 10/16/02 09:37AM >>>
Kolb Friends -
I am trying to remove a bent landing gear leg, but it is stuck good.
Does
anybody know of a good trick for pulling one of these out?
Many thanks -
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, Verner-powered in
Cedar Crest, New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "D Smalec" <smald(at)shianet.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 10/15/02 Prop balancers |
Jim:
Can you give more info on the prop balancer? Difference before and after?
How much$? Who sells them? I have wondered if they work as advertised.
Thanks, Darren FS1, Central MI.
>I have a prop balancer installed and the 447 is as smoothe as silk
throughout
>the rpm range.
>Jim Hefner
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 10/15/02 11:34:14 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
rp3420(at)motorola.com writes:
> I have looked at and thought about spade devices and was going to play with
> them when I get up and flying in the near future. I am going to drill two
> bolt holes at the end of my balancing rods and bend up some pieces of
> aluminum to mount on the rod with bolts. Warning though, start off with
> little pieces and work up to larger. Hate to have your roll control over
> whelmed/locked with the spade devices if made to large.
> Regards,
> Tim
>
>
I had thought about doing this same thing, but I was a little afraid of the
twisting action with the spade at the outboard end of the aileron. I believe
most spades attach at the span-wise center of the aileron. Also, wonder
whether the attachment of the
balancing rods is sufficient to take the torque of the spades.
Shack
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
Before I relocated my aileron bellcrank pushrod holes, I too was thinking
of spades, because the ailerons were so heavy. Relocated the pushrod holes
to improve the leverage, and now there is no need for spades.
K.I.S.S. works for me.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "vincenicely" <vincenicely(at)chartertn.net> |
| Subject: | What Causes a Miss-fire in 582? |
Hi Gang,
My 582 with about 50 hours has developed a miss. It has new spark plugs and
has been running fine. Over the last couple of hours, I have begun to
notice as miss in cruise power or a little lower, say 4500 to 5500 RPM.
Have any of you had similar behavior? If so, what was the problem?
Thanks for your input.
Vince Nicely
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Removing a Stuck Landing Gear Leg |
>
>
>I am trying to remove a bent landing gear leg, but it is stuck good. Does
>anybody know of a good trick for pulling one of these out?
I used a slide hammer also. The next time I installed the gear I made
sure it slid in real nice . No force. This usually means removing the
little bit of weld distortion inside the gear socket. Let this be a warning
to new builders and do not force the gear leg into the socket. If you have
to force it there is something wrong and will not come out easily when you
bend it.
________________________________________________________________________________
IF a feller' was to install some small spades, it seems they should be
mounted neutral to the relative wind. As I recall, the Firestar II wing
flies with the bottom of the wing 9 degrees positive incidence; am I wrong?
Seems like Dennis S. is right about the turbulance at the wingtip, so why not
drop the spade about 4-6 inches lower than the wing's lower surface to get it
out of that turbulance.
As far as overstressing the TE tube, seems to me that the only place that may
be adversely stressed is where the counterbalance fitting is riveted to the
aileron. A few more rivets may be needed.
I'm gonna' try this tomorrow.
Shack
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What Causes a Miss-fire in 582? |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
writes:
>
>
>
> Hi Gang,
>
> My 582 with about 50 hours has developed a miss. It has new spark
> plugs and
> has been running fine. Over the last couple of hours, I have begun
> to
> notice as miss in cruise power or a little lower, say 4500 to 5500
> RPM.
> Have any of you had similar behavior? If so, what was the problem?
>
> Thanks for your input.
>
> Vince Nicely
Vince,
You might first try another set of spark plugs. Sometimes even a new set
can be defective. You might check the plug wires and make sure the screw
on top of the plug is tight. If it's not that, let us know if you have
point ignition or CDI.
A friend of mine had a loose plug cap screw that caused a miss.
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
The reason I can't go with balancing rods is that in my wing redesign I
opted to not extend the ailerons to wingtips for efficiency reasons. Now I
am unable to install the rods. I will try moving the mounting holes for the
push rods to see if that lightens up the stick.
________________________________________________________________________________
Many thanks to all who have kindly responded to my prop question...got a ton a
good info!
Now about lowering that stall speed...the Vortex Generators are no doubt a good
thing..and will be on by firefly no doubt.
But I cant help thinking about a set of droop tips...or some better wingtip..maybe
a hoerner style?.....anybody know of any attempts to equip a Kolb with different
wing tips???
I am aware of how big a help they are on a clipped wing Airbike. ( BTW, wasnt that
a good lookin Airbike in the Kolb hanger with those babys! When we drove
up to the Hanger, at the Kolb Fly-in....my brother said to me....we are at the
wrong place!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Several years ago, Ron Christensen, of Orange County, CA., tried several
wingtip configurations, including droop tips, on his "Mk III 1/2." He did a
very nice job of the whole thing, and carefully tested and reported on his
results. I would imagine it would still be in the archives. He ended up
going with stock shaped tips, made of fiberglass, since the others all
resulted in reduced performance. GoGittum Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Droop tips?
>
> Many thanks to all who have kindly responded to my prop question...got a
ton a good info!
>
> Now about lowering that stall speed...the Vortex Generators are no doubt a
good thing..and will be on by firefly no doubt.
> But I cant help thinking about a set of droop tips...or some better
wingtip..maybe a hoerner style?.....anybody know of any attempts to equip a
Kolb with different wing tips???
> I am aware of how big a help they are on a clipped wing Airbike. ( BTW,
wasnt that a good lookin Airbike in the Kolb hanger with those babys! When
we drove up to the Hanger, at the Kolb Fly-in....my brother said to me....we
are at the wrong place!)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "vincenicely" <vincenicely(at)chartertn.net> |
| Subject: | What Causes a Miss-fire in 582? |
Hi Gang,
My 582 with about 50 hours has developed a miss. It has new spark plugs
and
has been running fine. Over the last couple of hours, I have begun to
notice as miss in cruise power or a little lower, say 4500 to 5500 RPM.
Have any of you had similar behavior? If so, what was the problem?
Thanks for your input.
Vince Nicely
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim and Phyllis Hefner" <hefners_tucson(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 10/15/02 Prop balancers |
Darren, the prop balancer (Balance Master) that I have is from Colorado Ultralight
Assoc and I'm not sure you can still get them there, but CPS has the same
thing listed at the link below, including info about it, price, etc.
http://mikes.automated-shops.com/cgi-bin/ams/shopzone30.cgi/~mikes/st_prod.html?p_prodid=796p_catid=sid=9iSKnP0WrFBy9wK-04102139174.9b
When I bought my plane,a set of balance masterswas in the extra partsbox so I installedthe
prop balancerto minimize vibration possibility from the start, so
I don't have much to compare with, since it's always been on there for me.
There were two aspects to my comment about "smoothe as silk". One was no vibration
at any particular rpm through the cruise or full power range and the second
was meaning no irregular engine behavior, meaning there are no rpm points where
the engine hesitates or doesn't want to maintain constant rpm settings. Since
running at this lower rpm is wellbelow the rangeof many users cruise settings
andwell down the horsepower curve for the 447, likely delivering more like
30hp at 4500rpm (maybe less), vs 40hp at 6500rpm, it's important that there are
no hesitation points in that rpm range, where more power could be lost. I find
my 447 has no hesitation taking increased throttle when I want to climb from
cruise at this pitch and low rpmsetting, so thereare enough spare horses to
accelerate from that rangeand climb when I want to, which is also important.
The Firefly light weight and me being small also helps with that.
Good luck,
Jim Hefner
Broadband?Dial-up? Get reliable MSN Internet Access. Click Here
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
The best wingtip is a flat plate that extends about 6 inches around the airfoil....fence
type.....but defeats the normal reason for the change that always
seems to be how "pretty" it looks. If you want performance...flat plate...."pretty"
is droop tips that don't do anything but look cool and cost a lot.... flame
away Ed in Western NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Lawton" <skyrider2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | 503 Gear Box/Prop Combinations |
To all 503 Dual Carb-Dual Ignition Owners:
I'd really be interested in what you all have found to be the quietest, best
all around gearbox/prop combination on the Dual Carbed Dual Ignitioned 503
Engines. I'm thinking of going to a 3 blade to reduce noise and vibration
and adding an intake silencer and after-muffler kit. Just trying to be
neighbor friendly.......
Also, Is anyone running AMSOIL 2 -stroke oil?
Thanks in advance,
September 23, 2002 - October 17, 2002
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-dw