Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ea
November 30, 2002 - December 15, 2002
>
> I am installing the H section in the spar. I was expecting to have to
> grease the bracket but decided to try it without grease first. The H
> section just slide right in. I think it may be a little loose. I have the
> H section in the spar with the bolt in place and 4 clecos at 10.25 " from
> the center of the 1/2" bolt. Now my questions: I removed the bolt and
> measured a 1/32 " gap between the spar tube and the H section at the bolt
> hole. Is this acceptable? Can I squeeze it down with the bolt while I
> make up the rivets? I removed one of the clecos and measured a 1/16 " gap
> between the H section and the wing spar. Is this acceptable? Can I take a
> clamp and squeeze the spar down to the H section while drilling the holes
> and installing clecos?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jim Ballenger
> Flying a FS KXP 447
> Building a MK III X
> Virginia Beach, VA
>
>
Jim,
In my opinion the answer to all of your questions is yes. One other thing
that I did was to make a wedge from a 2X6 to keep the ends of the "H" section
tubes pushed out against the inner wall of the spar tube. Then I used a
large C-clamp while I was drilling and riveting.
Steven Green
N58SG
Back in the air as of yesterday
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MK III X WING SPAR H SECTION |
Jim, Yes do clamp & squeeze the tube until you have no gap. By no means
put a rivet in with a gap. I had the same problem with one of my H braces..
Squeezing with a clamp is the accepted procedure to make sure everything is
tight, no gaps.
Richard Harris
MK3 N912RH
Lewisville, Arkansas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Ballenger" <ulpilot(at)cavtel.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: MK III X WING SPAR H SECTION
>
> Kolbers
>
> I am installing the H section in the spar. I was expecting to have to
grease the the bracket but decided to try it without grease first. The H
section just slide right in. I think it may be a little loose. I have the
H section in the spar with the bolt in place and 4 clecos at 10.25 " from
the center of the 1/2" bolt. Now my questions: I removed the bolt and
measured a 1/32 " gap between the spar tube and the H section at the bolt
hole. Is this acceptable? Can I squeeze it down with the bolt while I make
up the rivets? I removed one of the clecos and measured a 1/16 " gap
between the H section and the wing spar. Is this acceptable? Can I take a
clamp and squeeze the spar down to the H section while drilling the holes
and installing clecos?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jim Ballenger
> Flying a FS KXP 447
> Building a MK III X
> Virginia Beach, VA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Jones" <kevin-jones(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Gift Selection Added - List Fund Raiser! [Please Read] |
I see that some of the List-ers have received their Jeppeson bags. I ought
to have been one of the earliest to contribute so where is mine? This is by
way of checking up. If you got a contribution from me and the bag is coming
don't answer this.
kj
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: New Gift Selection Added - List Fund Raiser! [Please
Read]
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> I've just added a great new last minute Gift Selection to this year's List
> Fund Raiser line up! I have a very limited number of sets of a wonderful
> collection of Aircraft Technical books by Jeppesen entitled "The A&P
> Technical Series Book Set". This is a great opportunity to make a
generous
> Contribution to support the Lists and walk away with a great set of
> reference manuals at the same time.
>
> This set of books normally retails for over $117 PLUS shipping, but you
can
> pick up your set AND make this year's List Contribution for a cool
C-note -
> that's a $100, by the way! :-) I'm thinking "Great Christmas Gift"...
>
> There's more information on the books and making your Contribution at the
> List Contribution web site:
>
> Email List Contribution Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> We're coming close to the official end of this year's List Fund Raiser and
> if you haven't yet made your Contribution, there's still time get your
name
> on that List of Contributors! The percentage of contributors is kind of
> low this year but I'm hoping many of you are just holding out until the
> last minute!
>
> I want to thank each and everyone of you that has already made a donation
> to support the continued operation and upgrade of these List Services. As
> I've mentioned in the past, running these Lists is a labor of love for me
> and the hours upon hours of code development, system maintenance, and
> upgrades are MY Contribution to support this great resource for Builders
> and Flyer's alike. Won't your take a minute and make YOUR Contribution
today?
>
> I want to thank you for your support both during the Fund Raiser but also
> throughout the year in the form of kind words and moral support. A nice
> comment from a List member about how much the lists have helped them is
> always a sure way to brighten my day!
>
> Thank you to all!
>
> Matt Dralle
> Email List Admin.
>
>
> Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Gift Selection Added - List Fund Raiser! |
[Please Read]
Kevin, you haven't gotten your Jeppeson Flight Bag because you ordered a CDROM!
Incidentally, I have only shipped out "bags-only" orders received before
November 20th. I'm waiting on the next shipment of bags to arrive,
hopefully this week sometime.
"CDROM-only" orders will go out later this week for sure.
FYI
Matt
At 09:01 PM 11/30/2002 Saturday, you wrote:
>
>I see that some of the List-ers have received their Jeppeson bags. I ought
>to have been one of the earliest to contribute so where is mine? This is by
>way of checking up. If you got a contribution from me and the bag is coming
>don't answer this.
>kj
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
>To:
>Subject: Kolb-List: New Gift Selection Added - List Fund Raiser! [Please
>Read]
>
>
> >
> >
> > Dear Listers,
> >
> > I've just added a great new last minute Gift Selection to this year's List
> > Fund Raiser line up! I have a very limited number of sets of a wonderful
> > collection of Aircraft Technical books by Jeppesen entitled "The A&P
> > Technical Series Book Set". This is a great opportunity to make a
>generous
> > Contribution to support the Lists and walk away with a great set of
> > reference manuals at the same time.
> >
> > This set of books normally retails for over $117 PLUS shipping, but you
>can
> > pick up your set AND make this year's List Contribution for a cool
>C-note -
> > that's a $100, by the way! :-) I'm thinking "Great Christmas Gift"...
> >
> > There's more information on the books and making your Contribution at the
> > List Contribution web site:
> >
> > Email List Contribution Web Site: http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> >
> >
> > We're coming close to the official end of this year's List Fund Raiser and
> > if you haven't yet made your Contribution, there's still time get your
>name
> > on that List of Contributors! The percentage of contributors is kind of
> > low this year but I'm hoping many of you are just holding out until the
> > last minute!
> >
> > I want to thank each and everyone of you that has already made a donation
> > to support the continued operation and upgrade of these List Services. As
> > I've mentioned in the past, running these Lists is a labor of love for me
> > and the hours upon hours of code development, system maintenance, and
> > upgrades are MY Contribution to support this great resource for Builders
> > and Flyer's alike. Won't your take a minute and make YOUR Contribution
>today?
> >
> > I want to thank you for your support both during the Fund Raiser but also
> > throughout the year in the form of kind words and moral support. A nice
> > comment from a List member about how much the lists have helped them is
> > always a sure way to brighten my day!
> >
> > Thank you to all!
> >
> > Matt Dralle
> > Email List Admin.
> >
> >
> > Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> > 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> > http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
> >
> >
>
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little
temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.
Benjamin Franklin
Historical Review of Pennsylvania, 1759
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | All New List Digest Format!! |
Dear Listers,
I've just finished up some awesome code that will completely change your
thinking about how email Digests should work and look! Yeah, I'm kind of
proud of it, that is true... :-)
What you'll be getting in the new List Digest message is the
following: The main message will contain the new text-based index I
introduced a few weeks back. But here's where things get
different... Instead of simply including all of the day's posts in line
within the message, there will now be included two enclosures - one with a
HTML encoded version of the Digests, and another with the usual text-only
version of the Digests.
I think you're really going to like the new HTML enclosure of the
Digests. All of the Indexes at the top are now hyperlinked to the actual
posts and there are hyperlinks at the top of each post that will:
o Take you back to the Index
o Take you to the next post
o Take you to the previous post
o Allow you to respond to the LIST regarding the message
o Allow you to respond directly to the POSTER regarding the message
You'll have to check it out to appreciate the full goodness of the new
format! :-)
The text-only version is basically exactly the same data that has been
normally sent in line within the message.
You'll also note that the filenames of the enclosures are such that they
can be conveniently placed in a personal "archive" directory for future
reference.
Hope you enjoy the new Digest format!!!
Oh, and don't forget about the Fund Raiser! :-)
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Ballenger" <ulpilot(at)cavtel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MK III X WING SPAR H SECTION |
Steven/Richard
Thanks for your answers and advise. I think I will clamp and if necessary
wedge the ends to close the gaps.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: <SGreenpg(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: MK III X WING SPAR H SECTION
>
> In a message dated 11/30/02 6:54:25 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> ulpilot(at)cavtel.net writes:
>
> >
> > I am installing the H section in the spar. I was expecting to have to
> > grease the bracket but decided to try it without grease first. The H
> > section just slide right in. I think it may be a little loose. I have
the
> > H section in the spar with the bolt in place and 4 clecos at 10.25 "
from
> > the center of the 1/2" bolt. Now my questions: I removed the bolt and
> > measured a 1/32 " gap between the spar tube and the H section at the
bolt
> > hole. Is this acceptable? Can I squeeze it down with the bolt while I
> > make up the rivets? I removed one of the clecos and measured a 1/16 "
gap
> > between the H section and the wing spar. Is this acceptable? Can I
take a
> > clamp and squeeze the spar down to the H section while drilling the
holes
> > and installing clecos?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Jim Ballenger
> > Flying a FS KXP 447
> > Building a MK III X
> > Virginia Beach, VA
> >
> >
>
> Jim,
> In my opinion the answer to all of your questions is yes. One other thing
> that I did was to make a wedge from a 2X6 to keep the ends of the "H"
section
> tubes pushed out against the inner wall of the spar tube. Then I used a
> large C-clamp while I was drilling and riveting.
>
> Steven Green
> N58SG
> Back in the air as of yesterday
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Would MR Funnel [water seperator] prevent
water in fuel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
I use one and I would say Yes, conditionally. Certainly the Mr Funnel
prevents you from pouring water from your transport container into your
airplane's fuel tanks. I was skeptical of their claim, so I even
deliberately put water into the funnel and let it stand. It didn't come out!
However, there are other ways to get water in the system, notably from
condensation during periods of high humidity.
Using the Mr Funnel or similar device is certainly a huge safety plus, IMHO.
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
----- Original Message -----
From: <EnaudZ(at)aol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Funnel
>
> Would MR Funnel [water seperator] prevent
> water in fuel
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s) |
My Mk3/912 has the standard two 5 Gal tank set up. While pondering the possibilities
of fuel starvation with the plumbing now installed it now looks like a fuel
selector valve is mandatory.
The current system has a suction line from each tank going up to a Tee located
between the tops of the tanks. With this arrangement the first tank to run out
of gas will allow the fuel line to suck air and down we go. Ideally both tanks
would be emptied at the same rate and I would not ever have one tank empty before
the other but this assumption is not positive enough for a man-rated system
in my opinion.
Location of a RIGHT-LEFT-OFF fuel selector valve will require some planning to
avoid the John Denver (and others I'm sure) hazard. Reaching the tank area over
my shoulder, while strapped in, and switching a valve that I can't see sounds
risky.
This forces me to find a location where I can see the valve position and re-route
the fuel lines to the new location. The system cost will be in longer fuel
lines and several more potential leak points but the benefit will be a more reliable
fuel system that is easy to operate.
I am sure I am not the first one to faced this problem and would like to see what
some others have done.
Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s) |
Duane:
I absolutely don't mean to argue you with you, so please hear my comments in
that vein. You should certainly do whatever makes you and your airplane
safe.
I have the "standard" configuration you describe on my Mark II with a 503. I
have a see-thru panel right between the seats that lets me monitor the fuel
easily and they feed very, very evenly. In fact, in just over 30 hours since
I got the plane flying in late September, I've not been able to detect any
assymetric levels in the two tanks.
It would appear, at least in my case, that there's not much chance of one
tank feeding to empty before the other. Frankly, I'm very fussy about fuel
level and rarely let myself get below the two gallon mark. My first
inadvertent power-off landing was due to running out of gas. Once burned and
all that.
Of course, I have no idea how strong the draw is on your 912. Good luck with
your setup either way.
-Ken
----- Original Message -----
From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s)
>
> My Mk3/912 has the standard two 5 Gal tank set up. While pondering the
possibilities of fuel starvation with the plumbing now installed it now
looks like a fuel selector valve is mandatory.
> The current system has a suction line from each tank going up to a Tee
located between the tops of the tanks. With this arrangement the first tank
to run out of gas will allow the fuel line to suck air and down we go.
Ideally both tanks would be emptied at the same rate and I would not ever
have one tank empty before the other but this assumption is not positive
enough for a man-rated system in my opinion.
> Location of a RIGHT-LEFT-OFF fuel selector valve will require some
planning to avoid the John Denver (and others I'm sure) hazard. Reaching the
tank area over my shoulder, while strapped in, and switching a valve that I
can't see sounds risky.
> This forces me to find a location where I can see the valve position and
re-route the fuel lines to the new location. The system cost will be in
longer fuel lines and several more potential leak points but the benefit
will be a more reliable fuel system that is easy to operate.
> I am sure I am not the first one to faced this problem and would like to
see what some others have done.
>
> Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s) |
Duane and Listers,
I also run the standard 2 five gallon tanks in the stock configuration.
During the process of calibrating the fuel probes, the fuel pump has had to
suck the tanks dry several times.
My unusable fuel came out to be 11 ounces in the front tank and 16 ounces in
the back tank. The variation is due to the placement of my fuel pick-up
tubes and the fore & aft arrangement.
During normal operations, the difference between tanks has never been more
than .5 gallon.
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
N49KK, Kolb Kolbra, Jabiru 2200, 146 hours
http://home.attbi.com/~kolbrapilot/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duncan McBride <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s) |
Hey Duane,
I have 3.1 hours on my Mark III/912. It has the stock two-tank setup. So
far I have never seen the tanks anything but dead even. The fuel pickups
meet at a T fitting and the single line goes through a filter and then a
single fuel shutoff. From the fuel shutoff to the electric fuel pump is
about 24". The fuel lines to the T fitting are always full of fuel, and the
tanks continuously siphon between each other to keep the level the same in
each tank.
I have the line loop down below the bottom of the tanks and up to the fuel
pump so there is a low point. I had planned to put a drain there, but I
realized that water really would not collect there unless there was so much
water in the tanks it would feed through the pickups, which are about 1/2"
above the bottom of the tank. The DAR who inspected the plane suggested
making a tool from a hose and a primer bulb, so I could suck up whatever was
on the bottom of the tanks and inspect it. I've been doing that mornings
when I get to the field. So far with rain, humidity, early morning sun,
etc., I haven't found any water in the tanks yet. I'll keep looking.
----- Original Message -----
From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s)
>
> My Mk3/912 has the standard two 5 Gal tank set up. While pondering the
possibilities of fuel starvation with the plumbing now installed it now
looks like a fuel selector valve is mandatory.
> The current system has a suction line from each tank going up to a Tee
located between the tops of the tanks. With this arrangement the first tank
to run out of gas will allow the fuel line to suck air and down we go.
Ideally both tanks would be emptied at the same rate and I would not ever
have one tank empty before the other but this assumption is not positive
enough for a man-rated system in my opinion.
> Location of a RIGHT-LEFT-OFF fuel selector valve will require some
planning to avoid the John Denver (and others I'm sure) hazard. Reaching the
tank area over my shoulder, while strapped in, and switching a valve that I
can't see sounds risky.
> This forces me to find a location where I can see the valve position and
re-route the fuel lines to the new location. The system cost will be in
longer fuel lines and several more potential leak points but the benefit
will be a more reliable fuel system that is easy to operate.
> I am sure I am not the first one to faced this problem and would like to
see what some others have done.
>
> Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leonard S.Voelker" <lenvoelker(at)ccis.com> |
To Steve Randolf and Kolbers,
Thank you very much all of you for your encouraging words about my being a readable
writer. At NASA I didn't have much success writing researchy type conference
papers. Since my retirement last April, I'm 66 years old now, I've been toying
with the idea of trying to write about flutter for Kitplanes, The Experimenter,
or Sport Aviation. I subscribe to all three. These periodicals, and indeed
most aviation magazines, seem to be almost completely devoid of articles on
flutter. This has been of concern to me for a long time. Perhaps it is really
an opportunity in desguise for me to contribute something meaningful back to
aviation, which I love and which has been so good to me. Posting to this list
has been my first attempt at this kind of writing style but it appears acceptable.
I'm not the brightest crayon in the box by any means but after some 40 years I
seem to have aborbed much from many others who are. Perhaps I can best serve now
by being sort of an interpreter of their genius. Besides, I.ve had a lot of
great experiences that need sharing.
I'm also learning so much from you listers in such a short time. Your multitude
of flutter experiences, shared so generously with me, indicate a genuine, widespread
thirst for credible information in this area. Perhaps we are all on to
something here.
Fly safe and flutter free.
Len Voelker
Kolb Mark III Xtra/?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s) |
Duane, My MK III ( ser# 233 ) has the same set up of fuel tanks, and fuel
lines. It has always amazed me that both tanks always have the exact same
amount of fuel in them, no matter what the level is. So I guess what I am
saying is the system works, so why got to all the trouble and expense, not
to mention adding more places for something to go wrong with the fuel
system, when what's there works just fine ??
My 2 cents worth...
Richard Harris
MK3 N912RH
Lewisville, Arkansas
----- Original Message -----
From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s)
>
> My Mk3/912 has the standard two 5 Gal tank set up. While pondering the
possibilities of fuel starvation with the plumbing now installed it now
looks like a fuel selector valve is mandatory.
> The current system has a suction line from each tank going up to a Tee
located between the tops of the tanks. With this arrangement the first tank
to run out of gas will allow the fuel line to suck air and down we go.
Ideally both tanks would be emptied at the same rate and I would not ever
have one tank empty before the other but this assumption is not positive
enough for a man-rated system in my opinion.
> Location of a RIGHT-LEFT-OFF fuel selector valve will require some
planning to avoid the John Denver (and others I'm sure) hazard. Reaching the
tank area over my shoulder, while strapped in, and switching a valve that I
can't see sounds risky.
> This forces me to find a location where I can see the valve position and
re-route the fuel lines to the new location. The system cost will be in
longer fuel lines and several more potential leak points but the benefit
will be a more reliable fuel system that is easy to operate.
> I am sure I am not the first one to faced this problem and would like to
see what some others have done.
>
> Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s) |
Oh by the way Duane, my MK III also as a 912 on it, as indicated by the tail
number in my signature...
Richard Harris
MK3 N912RH
Lewisville, Arkansas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s)
> Duane, My MK III ( ser# 233 ) has the same set up of fuel tanks, and fuel
> lines. It has always amazed me that both tanks always have the exact same
> amount of fuel in them, no matter what the level is. So I guess what I am
> saying is the system works, so why got to all the trouble and expense, not
> to mention adding more places for something to go wrong with the fuel
> system, when what's there works just fine ??
> My 2 cents worth...
>
> Richard Harris
> MK3 N912RH
> Lewisville, Arkansas
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
> To: "kolblist"
> Sent: Sunday, December 01, 2002 12:25 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s)
>
>
> >
> > My Mk3/912 has the standard two 5 Gal tank set up. While pondering the
> possibilities of fuel starvation with the plumbing now installed it now
> looks like a fuel selector valve is mandatory.
> > The current system has a suction line from each tank going up to a Tee
> located between the tops of the tanks. With this arrangement the first
tank
> to run out of gas will allow the fuel line to suck air and down we go.
> Ideally both tanks would be emptied at the same rate and I would not ever
> have one tank empty before the other but this assumption is not positive
> enough for a man-rated system in my opinion.
> > Location of a RIGHT-LEFT-OFF fuel selector valve will require some
> planning to avoid the John Denver (and others I'm sure) hazard. Reaching
the
> tank area over my shoulder, while strapped in, and switching a valve that
I
> can't see sounds risky.
> > This forces me to find a location where I can see the valve position and
> re-route the fuel lines to the new location. The system cost will be in
> longer fuel lines and several more potential leak points but the benefit
> will be a more reliable fuel system that is easy to operate.
> > I am sure I am not the first one to faced this problem and would like to
> see what some others have done.
> >
> > Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Boyter" <boyter(at)mcsi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s) |
I have a mark three, That had the gas lines feed from the top of the tanks.
When I had two hours on the plane, I run it out of gas because I was doing
touch & goes and always in a left hand trun. And I could not see both tanks.
One tank was always a little lower then the other one, So I put the fuel
pick- up lines in the bottom of the tanks with no shut off value. The fuel
stays much much more even, But alway looking for a better system.
Wayne Boyter
KOLB MARK 3
ROTAX 582
72"WARP DRIVE
250 hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s)
>
> My Mk3/912 has the standard two 5 Gal tank set up. While pondering the
possibilities of fuel starvation with the plumbing now installed it now
looks like a fuel selector valve is mandatory.
> The current system has a suction line from each tank going up to a Tee
located between the tops of the tanks. With this arrangement the first tank
to run out of gas will allow the fuel line to suck air and down we go.
Ideally both tanks would be emptied at the same rate and I would not ever
have one tank empty before the other but this assumption is not positive
enough for a man-rated system in my opinion.
> Location of a RIGHT-LEFT-OFF fuel selector valve will require some
planning to avoid the John Denver (and others I'm sure) hazard. Reaching the
tank area over my shoulder, while strapped in, and switching a valve that I
can't see sounds risky.
> This forces me to find a location where I can see the valve position and
re-route the fuel lines to the new location. The system cost will be in
longer fuel lines and several more potential leak points but the benefit
will be a more reliable fuel system that is easy to operate.
> I am sure I am not the first one to faced this problem and would like to
see what some others have done.
>
> Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL
>
>
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by Declude Virus]
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duncan McBride <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Gascolators for auto fuel |
What kind of gascolator do you use? Until recently the only relatively
inexpensive one I could find at Aircraft Spruce wasn't for auto fuel.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Futrell" <Bill-Jo(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s)
>
> Duane
> I use the tee located on top with the line routed down under the
> tanks into a gascolator and from there to a facet fuel pump and then to
the
> engine pump. Hope this helps.
> Bill Futrell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick & Martha Neilsen" <neilsenrm(at)cs.com> |
| Subject: | Gascolators for auto fuel |
My fuel systems has bottom feeds from the stock tanks to a tee then to a
gascolator (which is at the low point of my fuel system) thru my fuel
filter, then to my back up electric pump to my primary electric pump that
has a built in pressure regulator thru a shut off valve to the carburetors.
My start up procedure is as follows: During preflight I sample the fuel from
the gascolator, then I switch on the back up pump to prime the carbs and
watch for fuel flow in a small section of the fuel system that has a
transparent fuel line. I then switch off the back up pump and prime the
engine with the accelerator pumps in my carbs. I then pull the engine thru
at least three cylinders noting the compression. I then start the engine and
taxi to my runway using only the primary fuel pump I will not get to the
runway if the primary pump isn't running. Just before take off I turn on my
back up pump which I leave on during take offs and landings. Most of the
fuel system and procedures are things that are common in general aviation
especially the fuel sampling from the low point of the fuel system before
each flight. And yes I have seen water and ice in general aviation fuel
systems. I purchased my gascolator from great planes aircraft and all it
sees is auto fuel.
My $.02 worth
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Duncan McBride
Subject: Kolb-List: Gascolators for auto fuel
What kind of gascolator do you use? Until recently the only relatively
inexpensive one I could find at Aircraft Spruce wasn't for auto fuel.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Futrell" <Bill-Jo(at)prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s)
>
> Duane
> I use the tee located on top with the line routed down under the
> tanks into a gascolator and from there to a facet fuel pump and then to
the
> engine pump. Hope this helps.
> Bill Futrell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s) |
I have a firestar with two 5 gal tanks, pickup from the top. The pickup tube
ends about a half inch from the bottom. From the tanks the gas lines go down
behind the seat to a selector valve located in a console that I built into
the side of the cabin in front of my seat. The console also holds, Master
switch, Landing light switch, radio, selector valve, fuel pump switch for a
facet fuel pump as well as a gage for each tank. The line then goes to the
selector valve, then a squeeze bulb, then a pressure regulator (set at 5
pounds)and on to the fuel pump on the engine, then to the carb. I am using
the capacitance fuel gauge that you can cut to whatever length you need.
There is also adjustments on the senders that allows you to set the tank to
register empty at any amount left in the tank. Mine shows empty with 1 gal
still left in the tank. I can only speak for myself, but one of the areas
that I believe are "high risk" is old fuel. It is typical that I will only
fly for about 45 min at a time, unless I am going cross country.So generally
I have about a gal and a half to two gal left in the tank. Whether or not it
is good practice I have gotten away with leaving that two gals in the tank
and the next time I fly Adding three gal of fresh gas to the tank. Having
individual tanks I can fly with a full tank, and I like that. I may want to
use all of it, but my butt generally gets tired somewhere around three
gallons. (I have found that even though I know that there is still a gallon
left in the tank when it shows empty, I cannot continue to fly on a "empty"
tank unless I absolutely have too.) I do not care for the idea of splitting
five gallons of gas between two tanks. While having two tanks connected
would be great on a trip, for the type of flying that I predominately do it
is not practical. The gages cost $34.50 with the sender $96.25, at Air
Spruce. I ran out of gas once, didn't like it at all.( this experience is
what prompted me to go to the gages) With all of us being individuals, I am
sure that my set up will not fit everyone, but you did ask for opinions.
This one has 125 hours trouble free so far.
Larry (the other one)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Jones" <kevin-jones(at)snet.net> |
Len, Let me add encouragement to your writing for the trade magazines. I was
in academia for quite a while and let me comment that you write much too
readably to be acceptable in academic (conference) circles. The magazines
you mention should eat your stuff up.Just keep on thinking you are writing
for us.
kj
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leonard S.Voelker" <lenvoelker(at)ccis.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Flutter
>
> To Steve Randolf and Kolbers,
>
> Thank you very much all of you for your encouraging words about my being a
readable writer. At NASA I didn't have much success writing researchy type
conference papers. Since my retirement last April, I'm 66 years old now,
I've been toying with the idea of trying to write about flutter for
Kitplanes, The Experimenter, or Sport Aviation. I subscribe to all three.
These periodicals, and indeed most aviation magazines, seem to be almost
completely devoid of articles on flutter. This has been of concern to me for
a long time. Perhaps it is really an opportunity in desguise for me to
contribute something meaningful back to aviation, which I love and which has
been so good to me. Posting to this list has been my first attempt at this
kind of writing style but it appears acceptable.
>
> I'm not the brightest crayon in the box by any means but after some 40
years I seem to have aborbed much from many others who are. Perhaps I can
best serve now by being sort of an interpreter of their genius. Besides,
I.ve had a lot of great experiences that need sharing.
>
> I'm also learning so much from you listers in such a short time. Your
multitude of flutter experiences, shared so generously with me, indicate a
genuine, widespread thirst for credible information in this area. Perhaps
we are all on to something here.
>
> Fly safe and flutter free.
>
> Len Voelker
> Kolb Mark III Xtra/?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s) |
Duane,
I have 2 five gallon tanks on my SlingShot also. Mine are front & aft.
I wanted to empty my aft tank 1st because of cg issue. I wanted to get
every drop from the 1st tank drained, and I didn't want to top off 2 tanks
if I didn't have to. For these 3 reasons, I went with a different system
than the parallel stock feed. As per my previous post, I didn't want to
have a shut off valve. My method is simple & basically foolproof. I plumb
the 2 tanks in series by controling the venting. The fuel pump sucks from a
pickup tube (accessed thru top of tank via a sealed rubber grommet) located
in the rear of the front tank. This front tank is vented thru another
sealed, top mounted, grommet which in turn is plumbed to the pickup tube in
the rear tank (also using same pickup tube arrangement as in front tank.)
The rear tank is then vented to atmosphere via a top mounted grommert which
is plumbed to outside of plane. As fuel is sucked from the front tank, it
is immediately replaced by fuel from the rear tank (because the front tank's
vent is hooked to the rear tank's pickup.) This process continues untill
every drop of available fuel is sucked out of rear tank. At that point, the
fuel level of the front tank begins to drop. this has the added benifit of
letting you know when exactly half of your fuel is spent. The stock tanks
are rigid enough so they do not collapse when under suction. The worst case
scenario in this setup is that if you get a leak in the vent between the
front tank and the rear tank pickup, you will not draw fuel from the rear
tank. This is not a major issue because you are always watching the
front/primary tank anyway. It has never caused me a problem & I like it so
much that I'd use it even if my tanks were located side by side.
Richard Swiderski
Ocala, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s)
>
> My Mk3/912 has the standard two 5 Gal tank set up. While pondering the
possibilities of fuel starvation with the plumbing now installed it now
looks like a fuel selector valve is mandatory.
> The current system has a suction line from each tank going up to a Tee
located between the tops of the tanks. With this arrangement the first tank
to run out of gas will allow the fuel line to suck air and down we go.
Ideally both tanks would be emptied at the same rate and I would not ever
have one tank empty before the other but this assumption is not positive
enough for a man-rated system in my opinion.
> Location of a RIGHT-LEFT-OFF fuel selector valve will require some
planning to avoid the John Denver (and others I'm sure) hazard. Reaching the
tank area over my shoulder, while strapped in, and switching a valve that I
can't see sounds risky.
> This forces me to find a location where I can see the valve position and
re-route the fuel lines to the new location. The system cost will be in
longer fuel lines and several more potential leak points but the benefit
will be a more reliable fuel system that is easy to operate.
> I am sure I am not the first one to faced this problem and would like to
see what some others have done.
>
> Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolators for auto fuel |
Being retired and a notable cheapskate & scrounge, I discovered that a
gascolator is very cheap and easy to make. The idea behind a gascolator is
simple: water sinks and gas sits on top of it. So I went down to Autozone
and here was this wall covered with about 50 different kinds of white nylon
automotive fuel filters, right out in the open so you could examine them. I
got one with the inlet and outlet on the same level, and the body or bowl
of the filter about as big as a coffee cup, and below the level of the
inlets and outlets, cost under $3.
Drilled a hole in the bottom of the bowl to fit a rubber fuel tank grommet,
(CPS catalog #7030, $.95) then stuck the barbed end of an elbow tank
fitting (CPS catalog #7032, $2.95) through the grommet. Hooked a drain line
to the fitting and ran it to an external low point on the system and capped
it off with a valve. (Already had that, actually had all the hardware
stuff, so I was primed...)
The fuel (water?) would come in through the inlet and go into the bowl part
first, and then through the filtering matrix and then up and out through
the other port. The water would lay in the bottom, and it would probably
hold nearly a 1/2 pint of water before it would get up to the outlet.
Less than $10 in the whole rig, and it weighed just a few ounces. The guts
inside the one I fooled with were not paper, but if they were, I would
probably have grubbed any paper gasket material out, because I have heard
that wet filter paper does not pass premix, and my old 532 uses premix. But
if you are using oil injection, and straight gasoline is going into the
filter, it would probably work OK. (Test it and make sure!) Once you make
the first one, it becomes very easy, I actually bought two filters, one to
practice on, and the second one to get right.
My present system has a gascolating sump built into the tank, so I am not
using this method, but if I was to do it again, I would buy the filter
first and drill a hole into it and look inside to make sure it was
suitable, they are cheap enough that you can afford to trash a couple to
get just the type you want.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>What kind of gascolator do you use? Until recently the only relatively
>inexpensive one I could find at Aircraft Spruce wasn't for auto fuel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Safety Wire fuel line clamps |
Added a web page showing how to use safety wire to clamp eurethane fuel line.
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg13.html
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leonard S.Voelker" <lenvoelker(at)ccis.com> |
| Subject: | Flutter articles |
Dear Ken Fackler,
Thank you very much for the good advice about writing magazine articles. I especially
treasure such advice coming from a real professional writer who "has been
there, done that". So maybe that's why practically nothing has been published
regarding flutter. I never would have guessed. The popular aviation magazines
abound with articles on engines, aircraft design, aerodynamics, fabrication
techniques, avionics, etc. I would have thought that I could have approached
the subject of flutter in much the same way.
Fortunately, I live in an area here in Southern California that abounds in aviation
STORIES. Unfortunately, most of the aircraft involved are not kit aircraft
or ultralights. Even so, many of the same flutter principles still apply.
I certainly don't expect to get rich doing this writing thing and may very well
not make any money at all since I am such a rank amateur. But wouldn't it be
great to eventually earn enough to help buy that engine I'll need for the Mark
III and not have to deplete savings so much.
My main motivation for trying this writing gig, however, is that I'm bothered by
the dearth of credible written information on flutter, especially in the area
of ultra lights and experimental aircraft. And based on the Kolb List responses
and various Letters to the Editor such information is badly needed. I think
that I should browse the other Matronics lists, too. The Archives may just be
full of flutter problems other folks have had.
Some possible topics that I think might be of interest include flutter basics,
control surface flutter, how to flight futter test your aircraft without instrumentation,
propeller whirl flutter, why round lift struts and bracing cables
vibrate, and how to avoid flutter when you modify your aircraft. But you are
right, how to introduce these subjects without it making it seem like a boring
lecture is going to be the challenge. Start with a story, right? A good, dramatic
one that grips the reader's attention. Well, those that have experienced
a flutter incident have certainly vouched for that. I should be in writers' heaven
if I can just figure out how to take advantage of it.
Thanks again for all of your good advice. I couldn't find your E-mail address among
the recent posts. Perhaps you would be so kind as to give it to me directly
so that I can learn more from you off line about this writing thing. I know
that I will need all the help that I can possibly get.
Len Voelker
Mark III Xtra/?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flutter articles |
For Len V.--I've tried to send you direct, but somehow it keeps being
rejected "...due to content." Geez, now I'm gonna get flamed fer sure!
Pls don't tell the rest of the guys on the list, or they'll want the
same filter.
regards,
Bob N. another writer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | New, NEW List Digest Format... |
Dear Listers,
Okay, so I woke up this morning to an email box full of hate-mail about the
new List Digest format. I thought it was cool, but I guess not... Still,
it seemed like too much code to just throw out, so I've modified things a
little and I'm hoping everyone will be happy with the new, NEW
arrangement. Here's how it works now:
o The HTML and TXT enclosures aren't sent in the Digest any longer.
o URL Links to the HTML and TEXT versions of the day's Digests
will be found at the top of the digest email.
o The new Digest Index will be found at the top of the digest email
following the URL Links.
o The full digest text will then be found in the email as before.
o All of the previous Digests will now be available on line. The
URL for the main digest page is:
http://www.matronics.com/digest
From here, you can drill into the specific List Digest of interest.
o Both the HTML and TXT versions of the Digests can be found here.
o The List Message Trailer will contain a Link directly to the given
o Right now there's only one Digest shown, but each day there will
be another. They will be sorted with the newest at the top.
Left-hand column is the HTML version, right-hand column the TXT
version.
A couple people also complained that some messages in the HTML version were
just one long line that went off to the right forever and they hated
that. Come to think of it, this is also an issue in the Search Engine,
List Browser, and Archive Browser. Some email programs don't included hard
Returns at regular intervals and that's what causes this. I wrote a
program tonight that will automatically chop these long lines into 78
characters or less and wrap the rest of the line. After tonight's Archive
transfer, all of the Searching and Browsing tools shouldn't have the
problem any longer either. Woo hoo!
So, back to the new Digest format. What people are going to see in the
new, NEW Digest is a bit of verbiage at the top of the email describing the
URL links to the HTML and TXT on-line versions, followed by the Links,
followed by the day's Index, followed by the day's messages just as
before. Lines longer than 78 characters will also be automatically wrapped
onto the next line.
Hopefully this will be a more pleasing arrangement for everyone. Sorry to
get everybody so stirred up over the format change!
The List of Contributors is coming out tomorrow night... Still time to
make that Contribution! http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com |
(Lotus
Domino Release 5.0.11) with ESMTP id 2002120208222805:93675
| Subject: | Re: Original Firestar's with flutter? |
From: Dwight.Kottke(at)hti.htch.com
Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2002 08:21:57 -0600
2002) at
12/02/2002 08:21:58 AM,
Serialize complete at 12/02/2002 08:21:58 AM,
Itemize by SMTP Server on HUDOMGW1/HTI(Release 5.0.11 |July 24, 2002)
at
12/02/2002 08:22:28 AM,
Serialize by Router on HUDOMGW1/HTI(Release 5.0.11 |July 24, 2002) at
12/02/2002
08:22:31 AM,
Serialize complete at 12/02/2002 08:22:31 AM
Dwight Kottke, 1997 Firestar, 83 hours flight time ( full-span ailerons,
no counter balance) with no flutter.
ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Sent by: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
11/25/02 11:19 AM
Please respond to kolb-list
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
cc: (bcc: Dwight Kottke/CNTR/HUT/HTI)
Subject: Kolb-List: Original Firestar's with flutter?
Group,
In all the years of flying the Original Firestar, this topic of flutter
has got my attention. I would like to take a poll of all Original
Firestar's with full-span ailerons, that may have seen a flutter problem
at one time. John Hauck is one of them. Are there any others out there?
Thanks,
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
16 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsellers(at)sgtcollege.org> |
I have a question of some of you still running a Cuyuna. This is my first
experience with a two stroke so be kind. My EGT is hitting 1200 at about
5800. What should I do.
Dale Sellers
Georgia Ultra Star.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <peterv(at)etsmiami.com> |
| Subject: | Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s) |
Duane, If both tanks are mounted level with each other, and if there are
no obstacles before the "T" connector (squeeze bulbs, etc...) the fuel
levels will always self-equalize EVEN if you are picking up fuel a bit
faster from one side than the other.
The fuel in the tanks doesn't know the difference whether you are
sucking the fuel out of the bottom or the top. If both suctions are
connected to each other by means of a "T" either above or below the
tanks, the high side will always "siphon" into the low side until an
equilibrium is reached.
It is no different than if you put two buckets of water next to each
other, one full and one empty and connect them with a hose over the top.
Once the hose is primed, the high bucket will empty into the lower one
until they are both at exactly the same level. The speed at which they
equalize is limited only by the diameter of the connecting hose.
This sometimes becomes apparent when filling the fuel tanks. If you
fill one first until it is brim full, then start filling the second one,
by the time the second one is full, the first will have gone down a bit.
This is because the higher level in the first tank has forced some fuel
"up and over" into the emptier one.
If you add a fuel selector, you will disturb the natural balance, add
one more human task to be performed, and invite Murphy's law into the
equation.
"KISS"
Without a selector when you run out of fuel it will mean that both tanks
are equally dry.
Peter Volum
----- Original Message -----
From: "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s)
>
> My Mk3/912 has the standard two 5 Gal tank set up. While pondering the
possibilities of fuel starvation with the plumbing now installed it now
looks like a fuel selector valve is mandatory.
> The current system has a suction line from each tank going up to a Tee
located between the tops of the tanks. With this arrangement the first
tank
to run out of gas will allow the fuel line to suck air and down we go.
Ideally both tanks would be emptied at the same rate and I would not
ever
have one tank empty before the other but this assumption is not positive
enough for a man-rated system in my opinion.
> Location of a RIGHT-LEFT-OFF fuel selector valve will require some
planning to avoid the John Denver (and others I'm sure) hazard. Reaching
the
tank area over my shoulder, while strapped in, and switching a valve
that I
can't see sounds risky.
> This forces me to find a location where I can see the valve position
and
re-route the fuel lines to the new location. The system cost will be in
longer fuel lines and several more potential leak points but the benefit
will be a more reliable fuel system that is easy to operate.
> I am sure I am not the first one to faced this problem and would like
to
see what some others have done.
>
> Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL
>
>
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolators for auto fuel |
I used a old Gascolator from a Cessna 140 a friend had, cleaned it up and
made new rubber gaskets. It' s almost identical to the Aircraft Spruce one
and I have friends that have used the one offered at aircraft spruce and they
are using auto gas, works fine. I can't imagine what would be different
execpt for maybe the gaskets being attacked by the gasoline. (anybody out
there know of any differnece in auto gas and 100LL) in regards to this) it
might be that since auto gas can be cut with alcohol, they are worried about
the alcohol destroying the seals etc.
My 1 cents worth.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <peterv(at)etsmiami.com> |
Dallas:
Let me join the rest in saying that I'm glad you and your grandson are
still with us and able to tell the tale - albeit with some pain.
When you get the chance, I would be interested in knowing how steep your
take-off was when you lost power that you were unable to get the nose
down before she stalled. I enjoy making steep climbouts, (40MPH at full
throttle with 912), but maybe that's cutting it a bit close (comments
John H?). Is a more airspeed and less angle called for?
Before I rebuilt my Mk. III, the fuel tanks were vented through holes in
the filler caps. At the time, I had read in a post on the list of
somebody else's concern about getting bathed in fuel in the event of a
nose-over. He had vented his tanks with hoses out the top and down to
the bottom - below the base level of the tanks. I modified mine the
same way.
Were you bathed in fuel as a result of top venting? Or did the tanks
rupture?
Another fuel set-up in the old Kolb that I didn't like was the feed from
the bottom of the tank with only a rubber grommet to stop leaking. I
was concerned that all it would take to have a major leak would be for
something to bump the grommet. At Sun 'N Fun I saw that the factory Mk
III Xtra avoided holes on the underside of the tanks by draining from
the top through a metal pick-up tubes that reached to about 1/2" from
the bottom, so I immediately ordered a set of those tubes and a new set
of tanks.
Best of luck for a speedy recovery.
Peter V
> At 3 PM today I crashed my Kolb on take off.
> Dallas Shepherd=0D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net> |
=0D
=0D
-------Original Message-------=0D
=0D
From: Dallas Shepherd=0D
Date: Monday, December 02, 2002 12:02:33=0D
Subject: stall=0D
Peter=0D
I wasn't on a steep climb out at the time. Air speed was about 55 to 60 mph
but we were only about 50 feet over these tall trees and still trying to
climb when the engine quit. No room to pull out of the stall with that
airspeed and that amount of room we had above the trees. The rpm's had
dropped to 2600 in seconds and the stall came fast. Once I had to turn my
engine off when it was going wide open after the throttle cable had come
loose in order to be slow for a deadstick landing and I thought that Kolb
had stopped in midair with all that drag. When I take off to the north I
have to make a left hand turn to avoid going over the high school and that
takes me over the trees. I usually practice stalls at 1000 feet instead of
50. =0D
Dallas=0D
40 is too close Peter
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | kolb camera mount |
| From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
12/02/2002 03:27:13 PM
Kip recently referred to my modified version of his underwing camera mount
in response to a List inquiry. Pictures of my version can be found on
George Alexanders' web page: http://gtalexander.home.att.net. Its simple
and works real well for me. You need a camera with an infra-red remote
control to release the shutter. I use a Canon G-1 digital that I got off
of Ebay, but there are others as well.
regards to all
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
List Friends -
I'm trying to find replacement safety pins for my Kolb, but have discovered
that the ones I need are no longer manufactured. I'm referring to the
safety pins that keep the clevis pins in place. (Clevis pins for wing strut
ends, wing spars and flap/aileron pushrod ends.)
My 1996 Mark-3 kit came with two size pins: Inch-and-a-half, and two-inches
long. The 1.5 inch pins are known as AN416-1 "Cowling Safety Pins" in all
the catalogs, and those are available anywhere. What I cannot find are the
2-inch long pins. New Kolb tells me they have not supplied the 2-inch
safety pins in their kits since they took over. (So, naturally, they do not
have any in stock.)
Does anybody know of a source for these, or have about a half-dozen extras
you'd like to sell? Since I fold/unflold my airplane each time I fly, the
larger safety pins are a lot easier on the fingers than the small ones, and
that's why I'd rather have them.
Thanks for any help ...
Dennis Kirby
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "oxygen rich" <oxygenrich(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel shutoff valve |
Hello Ralph and Kolbers,
Have been following the list learning and enjoying humor since June when I
began training. Thanks to All.
I had bought a Firestar with a fuel shut off valve - very nice fuel system.
Flew for several hours with no problem. After a jet change while adjusting
idle I had been turning engine off then restarting it several times. Pulling
the starter rope I had unknowingly bumped the 3/4 closed. The engine idled
fine but on climb out at about 100 feet the engine quit. There was no time
to think I just pointed her at the ground did a 160 degree turn and put the
bird back in the feild. My heat was pounding big time and I was
shaking.........scary!! Not a perfect landing but no damage to the Firestar
or me. Almost cost me big time. I immediately wired the valve open then
later removed it from main fuel line.
I feel very fortunate every thing came together and worked out.
I Had soloed a few weeks prior after month of intense training. During
instruction I had been practicing engine out procedure over and over and
over again.
I love flying my Firestar!! Been able to log 83 hours, learning more on
every flight. Flying here in the mountains is interesting and challenging.
Bought a KXP 503. Extra power for mountain flying is nice. Fly around
highest point in WV, Spruce Knob at 4868'. Hang gliders have a launce site
and land in the valley. I really like surfing the winds formed by the
ridgeline on those low wind days. Quite beautiful flying. Try to always
stay within glide to valley fields
Sorry to get so windy....
Happy Holidays to all.
Matt in mountains of West Virginia
KXP 503 - rocket ship!
......................................................
>From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Kolb-List: fuel shutoff valve
>Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2002 11:51:55 -0600
>
>
>Guys,
>
>I don't know how many of you have installed a fuel shutoff valve on your
>aircraft, but I decided not to have one. The reason is that I have heard
>too many stories about pilots forgetting to turn the valve on before
>takeoff. This story yesterday sounds typical of that situation, although
>I'm not accusing Dallas Shepherd of this at all. I don't even know that
>he has a fuel valve to switch.
>
>Have any of you guys got into the air and realized your fuel valve was
>off?
>
>Curious .....
>
>Ralph
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gascolators for auto fuel |
Richard, sounds like a great idea, and cheap too. I think I got the
picture, but why not post a pic on your web-sight?
That part about being retired, I know better, because my Father-in-law is
a supposedly retired preacher, so I know you guys never really retire.
Folks won't let you.
Thanks for the info on the home made gascolator..
Richard Harris
MK3 N912RH
Lewisville, Arkansas
: Re: Kolb-List: Gascolators for auto fuel
Being retired and a notable cheapskate & scrounge, I discovered that a
> gascolator is very cheap and easy to make. The idea behind a gascolator is
> simple: water sinks and gas sits on top of it. So I went down to Autozone
> and here was this wall covered with about 50 different kinds of white
nylon
> automotive fuel filters, right out in the open so you could examine them.
I
> got one with the inlet and outlet on the same level, and the body or bowl
> of the filter about as big as a coffee cup, and below the level of the
> inlets and outlets, cost under $3.
>
> Drilled a hole in the bottom of the bowl to fit a rubber fuel tank
grommet,
> (CPS catalog #7030, $.95) then stuck the barbed end of an elbow tank
> fitting (CPS catalog #7032, $2.95) through the grommet. Hooked a drain
line
> to the fitting and ran it to an external low point on the system and
capped
> it off with a valve. (Already had that, actually had all the hardware
> stuff, so I was primed...)
>
> The fuel (water?) would come in through the inlet and go into the bowl
part
> first, and then through the filtering matrix and then up and out through
> the other port. The water would lay in the bottom, and it would probably
> hold nearly a 1/2 pint of water before it would get up to the outlet.
>
> Less than $10 in the whole rig, and it weighed just a few ounces. The guts
> inside the one I fooled with were not paper, but if they were, I would
> probably have grubbed any paper gasket material out, because I have heard
> that wet filter paper does not pass premix, and my old 532 uses premix.
But
> if you are using oil injection, and straight gasoline is going into the
> filter, it would probably work OK. (Test it and make sure!) Once you make
> the first one, it becomes very easy, I actually bought two filters, one to
> practice on, and the second one to get right.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Armstrong" <cen33475(at)centurytel.net> |
BTW..Does anyone have any expierience with the extruded or cast body piano
hinges...instead of the formed ones like Kolb supplies. I know they are
several times more costly, but look alot better quality. I am considering
these instead of the supplied hinges.
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
if you really want to spend some extra money on overkill components there is
also a realy neat carbon fiber hinge available called carbinge
http://www.olympus.net/personal/2thman/why_carbinge.htm
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
Gentlemen:
Can a 72" prop be used on a Mark III Classic with a 912 engine?
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III, N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
Aircraft Spruce has them
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
Dale if you are using a Bing carb,raise the needle one groove. that usually
gets me 40 deg decrease in egt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Dennis,
I use safety rings that are stainless rings used for sailboating. They
have an "easy-start" in the middle that makes them great for taking on
and off. I've used them for 16 years without a problem. One is used on
the tail-bracing at the bottom of the lower fin and I have landed in tall
grass, sand, and snow without a hint of coming off. I would not trust
safety clips as they have been known to come loose or snagged. There was
a post a few years back where a clip came off a Mark III aileron. Use the
rings for safety.
Ralph
writes:
>
>
> List Friends -
>
> I'm trying to find replacement safety pins for my Kolb, but have
> discovered
> that the ones I need are no longer manufactured. I'm referring to
> the
> safety pins that keep the clevis pins in place. (Clevis pins for
> wing strut
> ends, wing spars and flap/aileron pushrod ends.)
>
> My 1996 Mark-3 kit came with two size pins: Inch-and-a-half, and
> two-inches
> long. The 1.5 inch pins are known as AN416-1 "Cowling Safety Pins"
> in all
> the catalogs, and those are available anywhere. What I cannot find
> are the
> 2-inch long pins. New Kolb tells me they have not supplied the
> 2-inch
> safety pins in their kits since they took over. (So, naturally,
> they do not
> have any in stock.)
>
> Does anybody know of a source for these, or have about a half-dozen
> extras
> you'd like to sell? Since I fold/unflold my airplane each time I
> fly, the
> larger safety pins are a lot easier on the fingers than the small
> ones, and
> that's why I'd rather have them.
>
> Thanks for any help ...
>
> Dennis Kirby
> Cedar Crest, NM
>
>
>
> _->
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com> |
ZepRep251(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Dale if you are using a Bing carb,raise the needle one groove. that usually
> gets me 40 deg decrease in egt
>
Do the same on the micuni carb = clip in the next lower grove
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Piano Hinges |
>
>I substituted the extruded hinges for all the hinges on my Kolbra.
>
>I did mine only for the piece of mind factor that the extruded hinges gave
>me over the formed hinges.
In all the Kolbs flying have you heard of any that had failed hinges?
What frightened you away from the formed hinges? I have a bad habit of it
aint broke dont fix it. Mechanically anyway. Artist modifications and
aerodynamic improvements are fair game for my inquisitive mind. If you can
give specifics of hinge failures I would quickly change mine over.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Tonry" <rtonry(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: One less Kolb |
Holy Cow! Sorry to hear about your Kolb. I'm glad you and your grandson are
OK. My buddy and I just got his Jabiru installed on his. Thanks for all the
help. I guess it came as a real shock since those engines are suppose to be
so reliable. We don't have a drain on the bottom of our tank. Water in the
gas is something we can prevent. I think we will be adding one. Also, we
will be changing the vents. Currently the vents are in the caps. We need to
change them to vent overboard.
I guess its important to get as much info from these mishaps as we can, to
increase our chances of survival incase of another mishap.
Really glad you are OK. Hope you can get things back together and back in
the air.
Rich
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: One less Kolb
>
> At 3 PM today I crashed my Kolb on take off. I suspect=0D
> carburetor ice. I had just refueled the two 5 gallon tanks=0D
> from my 30 gallon carrier which I had just filled from the=0D
> station two days ago. Temp, 50 degrees and sunny. I was=0D
> about 100 feet in the air when i saw my rpm's decreasing from 3200 to 2600
> and the engine quit. I was still climbing and the stall came up fast and
> just as I reached for my chute handle we hit the trees and came straight
> down through them. Limbs slowed the fall but chewed up =0D
> wings and we hit the ground hard in an over center position. The lexan
didn
> t break, but I smashed my face into it as the aluminum windshield frame
> collapsed on my side. The cage deformed, but held. Had my 12 year old
> grandson with me and he got his harness unbuckled and got out his side. I
> was hanging not quite upside down with my face against the lexan and had
> trouble getting unbuckled with all my weight hanging against the belt. I
> finally got it and got out the passenger side. Gas was coming in from the
> vent holes of the tanks and I couldn't find the master switch. It had
> broken off the end of the=0D
> dash which had come completely loose. I located it and turned the switch
> off. No fire. From the engine back it looks all right. Will know more
> after my old body heals a bit and I can pull it out of the woods. One of
> the wings is caught between two trees so the tail is up in the air over
> center.=0D
> This is a rural area, but within minutes of the crash I had dozens of
> people out in that woods, plus the sheriff and the state patrol, fire
truck,
> ambulance, first aid people, all my neighbors, my kids who were visiting,
> and some people didn't know. Had to talk to two FAA people and they told
me
> finally that they would not be coming to investigate and I could move the
> plane. One of the 911 people said her birthday was this coming saturday,
I
> said, so was mind. I'll be 70 how old are you. A good looking gal of 36
she
> admitted.=0D
> So what to do next after salvage. I only had liability insurance on
it.
> The engine did not sputter at all, just lost the rpm's and quit. I'll
haul
> it out of there and see=0D
> what's left.=0D
> Dallas Shepherd=0D
> Norfork, Arkansas=0D
> Kolb Mark 3/ 2200 jabiru
>
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | spark plug wire spreader thingies |
Kolbers,
I have been checking the local autoparts for the little clips that keep your spark
plug wires spaced evenly apart. Nobody seems to have em. I need a couple
two wire ones and a handfull of three wire ones. Would also like to have a
few of the triples with bolt holes for attaching to the airframe.
Anybody know where I can find these things?
Denny Rowe
Building Mk-3
690L-70
Leechburg, PA
Getting close, real close.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincehallam(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: fuel shutoff valve |
Im very old and not bold .You were very skilful and very lucky to turn back
from 100 genuine feet and get in dead stick. We always used to say "land
ahead "with a small turn to avoid the worst obstacles [look at the gap not
the obstacle] I havnt flown a Kolb and would be glad to learn old kolbers
opinions...but by gar you have to stuff the nose down quick to get some
excess airspeed to do any sort of landing flare
vnz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolators for auto fuel |
I have one of those gascolators on the J-6 I sold several years ago, it
needed a new gasket and I bought one at the local FBO. It was a semi firm
rubber, has been in there for years now with no problems running Amoco 93
octane with Phillips Injex premix, still doing fine.
Alcohol in the gas might change the equation...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Bill Futrell wrote:
>
>>
>> I posted a couple days ago that I was using the gascolator from Aircraft
>> Spruce and have flow it all summer with no problem. I called A/S today and
>> they said that the manufacture said that auto fuel will dissolve the gasket.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gascolators for auto fuel |
So now I need to stop by the auto parts store and buy a filter just so I
can play with the web page some more? OK, I can do that.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Richard, sounds like a great idea, and cheap too. I think I got the
>picture, but why not post a pic on your web-sight?
> That part about being retired, I know better, because my Father-in-law is
>a supposedly retired preacher, so I know you guys never really retire.
>Folks won't let you.
>Thanks for the info on the home made gascolator..
>
>
>Richard Harris
>MK3 N912RH
>Lewisville, Arkansas
>
>: Re: Kolb-List: Gascolators for auto fuel
>
>
>Being retired and a notable cheapskate & scrounge, I discovered that a
>> gascolator is very cheap and easy to make. The idea behind a gascolator is
>> simple: water sinks and gas sits on top of it. So I went down to Autozone
>> and here was this wall covered with about 50 different kinds of white
>nylon
>> automotive fuel filters, right out in the open so you could examine them.
>I
>> got one with the inlet and outlet on the same level, and the body or bowl
>> of the filter about as big as a coffee cup, and below the level of the
>> inlets and outlets, cost under $3.
>>
>> Drilled a hole in the bottom of the bowl to fit a rubber fuel tank
>grommet,
>> (CPS catalog #7030, $.95) then stuck the barbed end of an elbow tank
>> fitting (CPS catalog #7032, $2.95) through the grommet. Hooked a drain
>line
>> to the fitting and ran it to an external low point on the system and
>capped
>> it off with a valve. (Already had that, actually had all the hardware
>> stuff, so I was primed...)
>>
>> The fuel (water?) would come in through the inlet and go into the bowl
>part
>> first, and then through the filtering matrix and then up and out through
>> the other port. The water would lay in the bottom, and it would probably
>> hold nearly a 1/2 pint of water before it would get up to the outlet.
>>
>> Less than $10 in the whole rig, and it weighed just a few ounces. The guts
>> inside the one I fooled with were not paper, but if they were, I would
>> probably have grubbed any paper gasket material out, because I have heard
>> that wet filter paper does not pass premix, and my old 532 uses premix.
>But
>> if you are using oil injection, and straight gasoline is going into the
>> filter, it would probably work OK. (Test it and make sure!) Once you make
>> the first one, it becomes very easy, I actually bought two filters, one to
>> practice on, and the second one to get right.
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leonard S.Voelker" <lenvoelker(at)ccis.com> |
| Subject: | Lift Strut Vibrations |
Dear Kolbers,
I recall some recent posts where some of you have mentioned that your wing lift
struts were vibrating during flight. This is an interesting aeroelastic phenomenon
that is, fortunately, mostly obnoxious and not potentially immediately
catastrophic. However, it is hard on the end fittings and in time could eventually
lead to fatigue failure. So I don't recommend that you ignore it. The following
diatribe, in explaining in excruciating detail what is going on, assumes
that the lift struts are bare round tubes.
In fluid flow, cylindrical (and some other non-airfoil shapes) produce wakes with
alternating vortices. These vortices produce alternating pressures forward
all the way around the cylinder. These alternating pressures in turn produce
alternating circular "lift" normal to the flow. The frequency of the shed vortices
is constant and a function of the cylinder diameter. The larger the diameter,
the lower the frequency. If this frequency coincides with a resonant bending
frequency of the flexible tube it will vibrate at a more or less constant
amplitude depending on the airspeed.
The best cure that I know of for a vibrating lift strut is to wrap a symmetric
airfoil around it. I'm sure New Kolb will sell you a plastic one if you request
it, along with instructions on how to install it. Be sure to affix the airfoil
firmly to the strut or bad things could happen. Such an airfoil also has the
added benefit of significantly reducing strut drag since a symmetric airfoil
of the same thickness as a cylinder's diameter will have about one tenth of the
drag. Extruded airfoil-shaped aluminum tubing is also available but it is pricey
as well having somewhat higher drag because of the typically blunt trailing
edges.
Because they are round, those bracing cables around the empennage will likely vibrate,
too, and for the same reasons. I don't know of a practical cure for vibrating
cables. Flat steel ribbons, for example, would likely flutter since they
would be too flexible in torsion. I guess that we will just have to live with
it and inspect the cable fittings each time before flight to insure that excessive
wear has not occurred.
There are many examples of alternating shedding vortices elsewhere besides on aircraft.
We've all seen galloping telephone and electric power lines in high cross
winds. Some smoke stacks have even been toppled by them. Stop signs, although
flat instead of round, also tend to oscillate in high winds for the same
reason. Many fixes have been tried for these examples, with varying degrees of
success, but none of them are appropriate for aircraft applications.
See, that's more than you ever wanted to know about shedding vortices. Fly safe
and flutter free.
Len Voelker
Mark III Xtra/?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
12/03/2002 12:41:37 PM
I too like to use the oversized safety pins, as I must breakdown my Mrk III
and put it in my trailer every time I fly. I use the large ones to make
life easier when installing or removing the clevis pin at the wing
attachment point. Have not found any in aircraft spruce catalog, but did
find them at Home Depot in their specialty hardware drawers. No, they are
not to AN specs, but they are significantly beefier than standard ones, and
they work fine for their intended purpose.
I tried safety rings, but quickly discarded them because they are just too
much of a pain to take on and off every time. On the other hand, the loss
of a safety pin through improperly clipping it would seem more likely
than the loss of a safety ring. For this reason, checking all the safety
pins to make sure they are properly clipped is something I pay extra
attention to on my preflights. One one or two occasions, I found ones that
appeared to be clipped, but in fact were not fully secured. Seeing that
has made me even more vigilant, and Im fine with it as long as I know I
have done my preflight carefully.
regards,
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Reynen" <frank_reynen(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Mark,
I have a 72" 3 blade IVO on my MKIII with room to spare.It is mounted on an
IVO 3" extension.
See webside below under "912 carb conversion" for a picture of the mounting.
Frank Reynen
http://www.webcom.com/reynen
----- Original Message -----
From: <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Prop length
>
> Gentlemen:
>
> Can a 72" prop be used on a Mark III Classic with a 912 engine?
>
> Mark R. Sellers
> Kolb Twinstar Mark III, N496BM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lift Strut Vibrations |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Len,
I am one of those pilots with the round struts. I don't have them on my
machine anymore because I made the streamlined struts two years ago. In
the 14 years of using the round struts, I monitored the ends very closely
as my life depended on them. I never saw anything that remotely looked
like the 25 end rivets were loosening up. If that happened, I would have
grounded myself. They did not vibrate much at cruise where the majority
of my flying was done (55-60 mph). It was at low rpms, during the
approach and landing, where I could see them vibrating. It was a little
unnerving when I saw them out there holding me and my plane aloft, but I
would not hesitate to fly with them again.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
writes:
>
>
> Dear Kolbers,
>
> I recall some recent posts where some of you have mentioned that
> your wing lift struts were vibrating during flight. This is an
> interesting aeroelastic phenomenon that is, fortunately, mostly
> obnoxious and not potentially immediately catastrophic. However, it
> is hard on the end fittings and in time could eventually lead to
> fatigue failure. So I don't recommend that you ignore it. The
> following diatribe, in explaining in excruciating detail what is
> going on, assumes that the lift struts are bare round tubes.
>
> In fluid flow, cylindrical (and some other non-airfoil shapes)
> produce wakes with alternating vortices. These vortices produce
> alternating pressures forward all the way around the cylinder.
> These alternating pressures in turn produce alternating circular
> "lift" normal to the flow. The frequency of the shed vortices is
> constant and a function of the cylinder diameter. The larger the
> diameter, the lower the frequency. If this frequency coincides with
> a resonant bending frequency of the flexible tube it will vibrate at
> a more or less constant amplitude depending on the airspeed.
>
> The best cure that I know of for a vibrating lift strut is to wrap a
> symmetric airfoil around it. I'm sure New Kolb will sell you a
> plastic one if you request it, along with instructions on how to
> install it. Be sure to affix the airfoil firmly to the strut or bad
> things could happen. Such an airfoil also has the added benefit of
> significantly reducing strut drag since a symmetric airfoil of the
> same thickness as a cylinder's diameter will have about one tenth of
> the drag. Extruded airfoil-shaped aluminum tubing is also available
> but it is pricey as well having somewhat higher drag because of the
> typically blunt trailing edges.
>
> Because they are round, those bracing cables around the empennage
> will likely vibrate, too, and for the same reasons. I don't know of
> a practical cure for vibrating cables. Flat steel ribbons, for
> example, would likely flutter since they would be too flexible in
> torsion. I guess that we will just have to live with it and inspect
> the cable fittings each time before flight to insure that excessive
> wear has not occurred.
>
> There are many examples of alternating shedding vortices elsewhere
> besides on aircraft. We've all seen galloping telephone and electric
> power lines in high cross winds. Some smoke stacks have even been
> toppled by them. Stop signs, although flat instead of round, also
> tend to oscillate in high winds for the same reason. Many fixes have
> been tried for these examples, with varying degrees of success, but
> none of them are appropriate for aircraft applications.
>
> See, that's more than you ever wanted to know about shedding
> vortices. Fly safe and flutter free.
>
> Len Voelker
> Mark III Xtra/?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lift Strut Vibrations |
Len,
Are the "flat steel ribbons" you mentioned the same ones that you see on many
aerobatic planes instead of cables? Do you know what these cable
alternatives are officially called? Do the aerobatic pilots that use the
solid "ribbons" instead of cable suffer from the same vibration problems that
we do? Do you or any of the other list members have any experiance using
these instead of cables? I have thought of using these instead of cables on
the tail feathers because they are more streamlined and they look good. Any
idea where to get these?
Also, has anyone found a fix to stop the noise of the cables that go thru the
boom tube?
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
>snip>
> I tried safety rings, but quickly discarded them because they are
> just too
> much of a pain to take on and off every time.
> snip>
> regards,
>
> Erich Weaver
> erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
Eric,
Get the "easy start" safety rings. They are not hard to start or remove.
I've been using them for 16 years and I set up and take down on every
flight which has been over 360 setups. I would never use those safety
clips. Not only can they come loose, but tough on the fingers.
When I got my kit, I saw those clips and thought there had to be a better
way. The rings are it.
Ralph
Original Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tiffany Pitra <tif_qtra(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lift Strut Vibrations |
Sky tech. Has streamline struts and stremline gerry struts and ect. SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com
Len,
Are the "flat steel ribbons" you mentioned the same ones that you see on many
aerobatic planes instead of cables? Do you know what these cable
alternatives are officially called? Do the aerobatic pilots that use the
solid "ribbons" instead of cable suffer from the same vibration problems that
we do? Do you or any of the other list members have any experiance using
these instead of cables? I have thought of using these instead of cables on
the tail feathers because they are more streamlined and they look good. Any
idea where to get these?
Also, has anyone found a fix to stop the noise of the cables that go thru the
boom tube?
Steve
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lift Strut Vibrations |
A friend of mine has an Aircam and the streamlined lift struts are prone to
vibrate. Lockwood's cure was little turbulator strips that run the length
of the streamline tube strut on the forward side, one on the upper side
front, the other on the lower side front.
There is another aircraft that has just joined the local fleet, a Vista
that has streamlined lift struts that vibrate at certain engine rpm's,
apparently in resonance with the Rotax 912. The owner is going to install
turbulator strips along the front edges of the lift struts, will let you
know how things turn out, might be something Kolb-useful.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Dear Kolbers,
>
>I recall some recent posts where some of you have mentioned that your wing
>lift struts were vibrating during flight. This is an interesting aeroelastic
>phenomenon that is, fortunately, mostly obnoxious and not potentially
>immediately catastrophic. However, it is hard on the end fittings and in
>time could eventually lead to fatigue failure. So I don't recommend that you
>ignore it. The following diatribe, in explaining in excruciating detail what
>is going on, assumes that the lift struts are bare round tubes.
>
>In fluid flow, cylindrical (and some other non-airfoil shapes) produce wakes
>with alternating vortices. These vortices produce alternating pressures
>forward all the way around the cylinder. These alternating pressures in
>turn produce alternating circular "lift" normal to the flow. The frequency
>of the shed vortices is constant and a function of the cylinder diameter.
>The larger the diameter, the lower the frequency. If this frequency
>coincides with a resonant bending frequency of the flexible tube it will
>vibrate at a more or less constant amplitude depending on the airspeed.
>
>The best cure that I know of for a vibrating lift strut is to wrap a
>symmetric airfoil around it. I'm sure New Kolb will sell you a plastic one
>if you request it, along with instructions on how to install it. Be sure to
>affix the airfoil firmly to the strut or bad things could happen. Such an
>airfoil also has the added benefit of significantly reducing strut drag
>since a symmetric airfoil of the same thickness as a cylinder's diameter
>will have about one tenth of the drag. Extruded airfoil-shaped aluminum
>tubing is also available but it is pricey as well having somewhat higher
>drag because of the typically blunt trailing edges.
>
>Because they are round, those bracing cables around the empennage will
>likely vibrate, too, and for the same reasons. I don't know of a practical
>cure for vibrating cables. Flat steel ribbons, for example, would likely
>flutter since they would be too flexible in torsion. I guess that we will
>just have to live with it and inspect the cable fittings each time before
>flight to insure that excessive wear has not occurred.
>
>There are many examples of alternating shedding vortices elsewhere besides
>on aircraft. We've all seen galloping telephone and electric power lines in
>high cross winds. Some smoke stacks have even been toppled by them. Stop
>signs, although flat instead of round, also tend to oscillate in high winds
>for the same reason. Many fixes have been tried for these examples, with
>varying degrees of success, but none of them are appropriate for aircraft
>applications.
>
>See, that's more than you ever wanted to know about shedding vortices. Fly
>safe and flutter free.
>
>Len Voelker
>Mark III Xtra/?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: spark plug wire spreader thingies |
Denny, I may can help you. I am a store manager for the local NAPA store and
have been the business for 24 years. I looked today and they are available
is a variety of colors shapes and even some that you can attach to frame
members. Go to any Napa and ask to look at the PSE (performance& specialty
equipment) catalog. there on page 275 of catalog #PSE02 154021. They will
most likely give you a catalog to take home because most hardly use them.
Also Ask for a Balkamp catalog. Lots of stuff in there that can be used in
building.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: <rowedl(at)highstream.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: spark plug wire spreader thingies
>
> Kolbers,
> I have been checking the local autoparts for the little clips that keep
your spark plug wires spaced evenly apart. Nobody seems to have em. I need
a couple two wire ones and a handfull of three wire ones. Would also like
to have a few of the triples with bolt holes for attaching to the airframe.
> Anybody know where I can find these things?
> Denny Rowe
> Building Mk-3
> 690L-70
> Leechburg, PA
> Getting close, real close.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello Kolbers,
I have been reading all the interesting post attempting to learn as much about
Kolbs as possible. So far I have gained a lot of knowledge, but have not had much
to offer in return. I'm sure that after I begin my project M3X I will have
plenty of questions and will continue to learn. As an effort to offer something
in return, to the list, I am offering my assistance to any and all on part
numbers, prices and availability of any of the products offered by NAPA. I manage
a NAPA store and have access to everything in their line. Plus an extensive
resource of books tech info at my fingertips. Perhaps this may help some of
you and I can repay to some for the good insight that I have found thus far. With
24 years of experience of automotive parts (Ford/GM/Nissan/NAPA) I have thought
of several parts I have sold along the way that may be helpful here. I am
in no way trying to solicit parts business here,got plenty of that!, however
from a pro I can honestly say that the help you seek at your local stores may
not be all you can get because most counterman today rely on computers to match
an application rather than knowing what is available in their product line.
For example, did you know that most NAPA stores stock aircraft cable? And most
as mine stock's the spiffy yellow fuel line used in two cycle applications.
Another example, from my Nissan days I remember a very nice stainless steel very
small hose clamp that can be found on most imports. If any of this is any help
I welcome your questions and are glad to help. I'm sure I can learn as well.
Thanks
Paul
N4958P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: spark plug wire spreader thingies |
Denny,speedshop item. Try Summit Racing Equipment,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>, I am offering my assistance to any and all on part numbers, prices and
>availability of any of the products offered by NAPA. I manage a NAPA store
>and have access to everything in their line.
Thanks for the offer the only rule is "do not mention Sea Foam". Any
chance you can locate a windshield for a Cimbria kit car?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lift Strut Vibrations |
Officially called Flying wires, made by Mcwhite
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | making steep climbouts |
I enjoy making steep climbouts, (40MPH at full
throttle with 912), but maybe that's cutting it a bit close
(comments
John H?). Is a more airspeed and less angle called for?
=======================================
during testing i found that the best lift to drag ratio was
55 indicated..... speeds above or below that speed would
result in a slower climb out...... personally i like 60
even then i get told that i am quite steep. in my
humble opinion 40 is an accident waiting to happen.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Can a 72" prop be used on a Mark III Classic with a
912 engine?
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III, N496BM
=============================
72 and 2 blade would probably work.... prop manufactures
for both 3 blade props i have owned recomended 68 inch
versions.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | installing the H section |
> I am installing the H section in the spar. I was
expecting to have to
grease the the bracket but decided to try it without grease
first. The H
section just slide right in. I think it may be a little
loose. I have the
H section in the spar with the bolt in place and 4 clecos at
10.25 " from
the center of the 1/2" bolt. Now my questions: I removed
the bolt and
measured a 1/32 " gap between the spar tube and the H
section at the bolt
hole. Is this acceptable? Can I squeeze it down with the
bolt while I make
up the rivets? I removed one of the clecos and measured a
1/16 " gap
between the H section and the wing spar. Is this
acceptable? Can I take a
clamp and squeeze the spar down to the H section while
drilling the holes
and installing clecos?
>
=============================
before i pulled any rivets i would make sure that the h
section had the proper dimentions.... i would check the
spar for roundness... if by pulling the spar in to fit the
h section makes the spar an oval shape it will make fiting
the ribs harder... if the spar is oval now and by pulling
it in makes it round then i think i would start pulling
rivets.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
Aircraft Spruce calls them cowling safety pins.AN416-1 .051 wire AN416-2 .041
wire .23&.17cents ea.
________________________________________________________________________________
Paul,
When you have nothing to do, maybe you could look me up the PN for the
lightest, cost effective, electric, high pressure (60lb+) for my EFI system.
I need to install 2 in parrallel. My understanding is that they vary widely
in price, weight & relibility. I would like to go with the external mount
version. Any help pointing me in the right direction would be appreciated.
Light & reliable is my top priority. Thanks. ...Richard Swiderski
PS Can you get access to the John Deere dynamos PN AM877557 with AM101406
regulator. They put out 20 amp & weigh 4lb with regulator. At JD dealer
they get $270 & $70 for them. I have not found a nondealer source for
them..
This is quite a wish list. I guess I am testing your metal here!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Auto Parts
>
> Hello Kolbers,
> I have been reading all the interesting post attempting to learn as much
about Kolbs as possible. So far I have gained a lot of knowledge, but have
not had much to offer in return. I'm sure that after I begin my project M3X
I will have plenty of questions and will continue to learn. As an effort to
offer something in return, to the list, I am offering my assistance to any
and all on part numbers, prices and availability of any of the products
offered by NAPA. I manage a NAPA store and have access to everything in
their line. Plus an extensive resource of books tech info at my fingertips.
Perhaps this may help some of you and I can repay to some for the good
insight that I have found thus far. With 24 years of experience of
automotive parts (Ford/GM/Nissan/NAPA) I have thought of several parts I
have sold along the way that may be helpful here. I am in no way trying to
solicit parts business here,got plenty of that!, however from a pro I can
honestly say that the help you see!
> k at your local stores may not be all you can get because most counterman
today rely on computers to match an application rather than knowing what is
available in their product line. For example, did you know that most NAPA
stores stock aircraft cable? And most as mine stock's the spiffy yellow fuel
line used in two cycle applications. Another example, from my Nissan days I
remember a very nice stainless steel very small hose clamp that can be found
on most imports. If any of this is any help I welcome your questions and are
glad to help. I'm sure I can learn as well.
>
> Thanks
> Paul
> N4958P
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lift Strut Vibrations |
In a message dated 12/3/02 12:40:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
lenvoelker(at)ccis.com writes:
> See, that's more than you ever wanted to know about shedding vortices. Fly
> safe and flutter free.
>
> Len Voelker
> Mark III Xtra/?
>
>
> You're good, Len....keep it up. It all makes some sense to me.
George Randolph
Akron, Oh Firestar KX with 3 blade IVO on 447
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 12/3/02 5:07:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, ul15rhb(at)juno.com
writes:
> Eric,
>
> Get the "easy start" safety rings. They are not hard to start or remove.
> I've been using them for 16 years and I set up and take down on every
> flight which has been over 360 setups. I would never use those safety
> clips. Not only can they come loose, but tough on the fingers.
>
> When I got my kit, I saw those clips and thought there had to be a better
> way. The rings are it.
>
> Ralph
> Original Firestar
>
>
> hey Ralph, what do you mean the easy start ones.....
wonderen George Randolph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
> > hey Ralph, what do you mean the easy start ones.....
>
> wonderen George Randolph
George,
The ring overlaps so that it will not come off (like a key ring), but the
inner overlap is bent to the center so it can be started and wound around
without prying apart the overlaps with the fingers. Does that make sense?
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: installing the H section |
This has bothered me some, and Boyd, you make some good points, as usual.
The thing I would worry about here, is that pop rivets are great in shear,
but very poor in tension. If there's a gap between the spar walls, and the
H-section, I would find out why, as Boyd says. Maybe even have new
H-sections made. Relying on pop rivets to hold that spar tight to the
H-section seems very chancey to me.................try pulling a spar out of
round with a clamp, and you'll see how much force it takes. (I had the
opposite problem: I had to squeeze my spars slightly out of round to get
the H-section in, without scratching. With the Stanley squeeze clamps, it
was VERY difficult) Then pop rivet 2 scrap pieces of heavy material
together, and pry them apart................it'll scare you. DON'T use pop
rivets in tension ! ! ! Concerned Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "b young" <byoung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: installing the H section
>
> > I am installing the H section in the spar. I was
> expecting to have to
> grease the the bracket but decided to try it without grease
> first. The H
> section just slide right in. I think it may be a little
> loose. I have the
> H section in the spar with the bolt in place and 4 clecos at
> 10.25 " from
> the center of the 1/2" bolt. Now my questions: I removed
> the bolt and
> measured a 1/32 " gap between the spar tube and the H
> section at the bolt
> hole. Is this acceptable? Can I squeeze it down with the
> bolt while I make
> up the rivets? I removed one of the clecos and measured a
> 1/16 " gap
> between the H section and the wing spar. Is this
> acceptable? Can I take a
> clamp and squeeze the spar down to the H section while
> drilling the holes
> and installing clecos?
> >
> =============================
>
> before i pulled any rivets i would make sure that the h
> section had the proper dimentions.... i would check the
> spar for roundness... if by pulling the spar in to fit the
> h section makes the spar an oval shape it will make fiting
> the ribs harder... if the spar is oval now and by pulling
> it in makes it round then i think i would start pulling
> rivets.
>
> boyd
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 12/3/02 11:47:35 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ul15rhb(at)juno.com writes:
> >>hey Ralph, what do you mean the easy start ones.....
> >
> >wonderen George Randolph
>
> George,
>
> The ring overlaps so that it will not come off (like a key ring), but the
> inner overlap is bent to the center so it can be started and wound around
> without prying apart the overlaps with the fingers. Does that make sense?
>
> Ralph
>
> YUP
GR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincehallam(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lift Strut Vibrations |
Ive seen elliptical or lentil cross section wires criss crossed on biplanes
drop x section where the fat bit is at the back i.e. "wrong way round". some
tall chimneys have a spiral strip welded round to kill the oscillating vortex
You should look at the smoke off a tall chimney on a stable day to see what
happens behind a cylinder.Hang gliders sometimes use spiral wound multi
strand wing wires which normally dont seem to vibrate much
Vnz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Sky tech and NAPA |
Steve,
I have a question about the streamline stuts at Skytech.
I am thinking of using these struts on a Modified Ultrastar and not
sure if an aluminum or steel square tube should be inserted for strength lengthwise.
The large airfoil strut will "probably " be sufficient with just steel
fittings for attachment as in Cessna 150's etc.but I do not want to experiment
with such important structure....anybody out there have a drawing that will correspond
with the weight ,strength requirement of The US or Firefly....Trying
to keep the weight manageable.
Ed in Western NY
I always thought NAPA stood for "New Aircraft Parts & Accessories "
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lift Strut Vibrations |
I've seen 2 biplanes - I believe Pitts', but I won't swear to it - that
started off with McWhite flying wires, and switched to round because of a
problem. Can't remember the details, but 1 of them was owned by a friend of
Tom Kuffel in Whitefish, MT. Tom, if you're still monitoring the List,
maybe you could fill us in. Thanks. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vincehallam(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Lift Strut Vibrations
>
> Ive seen elliptical or lentil cross section wires criss crossed on
biplanes
> drop x section where the fat bit is at the back i.e. "wrong way round".
some
> tall chimneys have a spiral strip welded round to kill the oscillating
vortex
> You should look at the smoke off a tall chimney on a stable day to see
what
> happens behind a cylinder.Hang gliders sometimes use spiral wound
multi
> strand wing wires which normally dont seem to vibrate much
> Vnz
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kenneth Broste" <kenandmona(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Painting the Nose |
what did you find worked best for getting the paint to adhere to the
surface? I'm planning on using a fine grit sandpaper to rough up the
surface. Is there some solution a person could use on the surface versus
roughing up the surface?
Kenny
Tucson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce McElhoe" <mcelhoe(at)cvip.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Painting the Nose |
Kenny,
We just finished our Firefly and flew it this week. I smoothed the nose
with 400 paper and primed with the white (Poly--) two-part epoxy. Sanded
that a little, then finished with the white Poly-Tone that we used
everywhere. It came out real nice.
We put the Poly-Tone in the freezer the night before so it would dry slowly
and flow out better. We're pleased with the semi-shine that resulted. I
don't think we'll even rub it out, even though we expected to.
Regards,
Bruce McElhoe FireFly #88
Reedley, Calif.
>
>
> what did you find worked best for getting the paint to adhere to the
> surface? I'm planning on using a fine grit sandpaper to rough up the
> surface. Is there some solution a person could use on the surface versus
> roughing up the surface?
>
> Kenny
> Tucson
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Richard,
Took some time today to explore the fuel pump numbers. Here is what I found so
far. Napa offers several pumps. First is part number P5000 it produces 75 psi
and cost 99.00 bucks. Do not have a weight on it but ordered one today and I'll
weight it tomorrow and get back to you. The others that I have in stock are
2P74028 for 62.99 and P74028 for 94.84 these both produce 90-100 psi and weigh
615 grams or 1.2 pounds. I have a set of digital scales to mix paint with and
that's how I came up with that. the "2P" is just a cheaper version called
tru-flow. They are both made by federal mogul and are very reliable, if the application
is correct. The key to these pumps is that you will need a fuel return
circuit. This allows the fuel flow to remain at max to cool the electric motors.
Otherwise they will burn up quick! Also you mentioned installing in parallel.
These pumps will not allow fuel flow if not pumping. You will have to incorporate
a bypass/check valve in to the circuit. Part # 1691002. I'm sure you
have already thought this through but incase you haven't perhaps this will help.
One more note, I don't know how you plan to incorporate a safety shut off
switch into the system, but on cars they use an inertia switch that will shut
down the pumps in case of a crash and the fuel lines become severed. Back in the
80's ford used a frame mounted fuel pump like the P74028 and we were goofing
around one day and made a water gun out of one that was defective. That this
will shoot liquid 30-40 feet!
As for the John Deere parts, the numbers would not cross to anything available
aftermarket. I did call the local dealer to see what they fit so I could check
it that way but no luck. He did quote me 145.49 as retail and 60.51 on the regulator.
Perhaps your dealer is building a Kolb and needs the extra money:-)
By the way what engine are you using that has EFI?
Later
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Painting the Nose |
In a message dated 12/4/02 11:39:36 AM Eastern Standard Time,
kenandmona(at)earthlink.net writes:
> What did you find worked best for getting the paint to adhere to the
> surface? I'm planning on using a fine grit sandpaper to rough up the
> surface. Is there some solution a person could use on the surface versus
> roughing up the surface?
>
> Kenny
> Tucson
>
Kenny,
If you have already talked to Jim or Dondi they probably told you to sand the
surface with "Poly 400" and then prime with "Poly" two part epoxy then sand
with "Poly 600" and finally apply "Poly enamel", that matches your "Polytone"
paint, with your "Poly" HVLP gun.
Well, with the exception of the Poly sand paper, this is how I painted my
nose cone.
I agree with your statement about customer support. A few years from now you
can lookup the definition of customer support and it will simply say "Jim &
Dondi".
Steven Green
N58SG
213 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gascolators for auto fuel |
Richard, I thought you still had the homemade gascolator, no please don't go
buy one. I think can do it from your information already posted...
Richard Harris
MK3 N912RH
Lewisville, Arkansas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <rwpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Gascolators for auto fuel
>
> So now I need to stop by the auto parts store and buy a filter just so I
> can play with the web page some more? OK, I can do that.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
<rharris@magnolia-net.com>
> >
> >Richard, sounds like a great idea, and cheap too. I think I got the
> >picture, but why not post a pic on your web-sight?
> > That part about being retired, I know better, because my Father-in-law
is
> >a supposedly retired preacher, so I know you guys never really retire.
> >Folks won't let you.
> >Thanks for the info on the home made gascolator..
> >
> >
> >Richard Harris
> >MK3 N912RH
> >Lewisville, Arkansas
> >
> >: Re: Kolb-List: Gascolators for auto fuel
> >
> >
> >Being retired and a notable cheapskate & scrounge, I discovered that a
> >> gascolator is very cheap and easy to make. The idea behind a gascolator
is
> >> simple: water sinks and gas sits on top of it. So I went down to
Autozone
> >> and here was this wall covered with about 50 different kinds of white
> >nylon
> >> automotive fuel filters, right out in the open so you could examine
them.
> >I
> >> got one with the inlet and outlet on the same level, and the body or
bowl
> >> of the filter about as big as a coffee cup, and below the level of the
> >> inlets and outlets, cost under $3.
> >>
> >> Drilled a hole in the bottom of the bowl to fit a rubber fuel tank
> >grommet,
> >> (CPS catalog #7030, $.95) then stuck the barbed end of an elbow tank
> >> fitting (CPS catalog #7032, $2.95) through the grommet. Hooked a drain
> >line
> >> to the fitting and ran it to an external low point on the system and
> >capped
> >> it off with a valve. (Already had that, actually had all the hardware
> >> stuff, so I was primed...)
> >>
> >> The fuel (water?) would come in through the inlet and go into the bowl
> >part
> >> first, and then through the filtering matrix and then up and out
through
> >> the other port. The water would lay in the bottom, and it would
probably
> >> hold nearly a 1/2 pint of water before it would get up to the outlet.
> >>
> >> Less than $10 in the whole rig, and it weighed just a few ounces. The
guts
> >> inside the one I fooled with were not paper, but if they were, I would
> >> probably have grubbed any paper gasket material out, because I have
heard
> >> that wet filter paper does not pass premix, and my old 532 uses premix.
> >But
> >> if you are using oil injection, and straight gasoline is going into the
> >> filter, it would probably work OK. (Test it and make sure!) Once you
make
> >> the first one, it becomes very easy, I actually bought two filters, one
to
> >> practice on, and the second one to get right.
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Gascolators---material compatibility |
Kolbers,
Below is a link to an excellent compatibility chart for different rubbers. I
would suspect that the gasket material in a gascolator that is labeled "for
avgas only" is viton which has an excellent compatibility with gasoline but
marginal for ethanol. It looks like buna-n would be a good selection for
auto fuel.
Steven Green
N58SG
Click here: O-Ring Compatibility
Guide
http://www.marcorubber.com/compatibility.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
Hey Guys,
Have any of you,are do any of you use this gaget?
http://www.sportflyingshop.com/Instr/Skydat_GX1/skydat_gx1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
At 07:41 PM 12/4/2002, you wrote:
>
>Hey Guys,
>Have any of you,are do any of you use this gaget?
>http://www.sportflyingshop.com/Instr/Skydat_GX1/skydat_gx1.html
I had one on a trike that I owned a while back. I had an earlier version,
but it had all the engine instrumentation and the GPS as well. Actually it
was pretty cool, but there were two or three issues I had with it:
1) It was relatively fragile to electrical spikes, so you had to be very
careful not to have it on when powering the engine off or on.
2) The contrast was poor... not terrible, but enough to make me grumble
sometimes as I was trying to make out details, particularly with the GPS
map. The newer versions _LOOK_ like they've improved that, but you'll have
to be the judge.
3) The most important "problem": Mine seemed to be very sensitive to
voltages even just a hair under 12 volts, so if my battery got just a
little weak, I'd lose EVERYTHING... I once had to fly home with ZERO
instrumentation due to that problem.
I have to admit that, when it was working, it was pretty nice to have... it
gave a lot of information in a very small area, seemed to be well
thought-out (with the exceptions noted above), and showing data in a
analog-style was much better IMO than the ones that just show all the numbers.
The system was on the trike when I bought it, but I understand that
builders like the idea of having all the sensors run to the "black box" and
only one digital cable runs from the black box to the display. On the
other hands, that _is_ putting all your eggs in one basket. I was always a
little uneasy about that. With individual gauges... say you lost your
airspeed, you could still rely on your tach, and vice versa. As I learned
the hard way, with the SkyDat, you lose one, you've lost 'em all.
So, like any solution, it probably depends on whether the problem(s) it
_causes_ can be dealt with better than the problems associated with the
_other_ solution. ;-)
-- Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
At 07:41 PM 12/4/2002, you wrote:
>
>Hey Guys,
>Have any of you,are do any of you use this gaget?
>http://www.sportflyingshop.com/Instr/Skydat_GX1/skydat_gx1.html
Oh, one other thing I just remembered...: There was a fairly significant
lag-time between a change and that change registering on the display, for
example, dipping the nose and the VSI would not show the descent for 0.5 to
1.0 seconds... the airspeed, too, was a bit slow in registering a
change. I say "significant" but maybe for you it won't be... I got used to
it and it didn't bother me too much, but at first it was a little irritating.
-- R
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
At 07:41 PM 12/4/2002, you wrote:
>
>Hey Guys,
>Have any of you,are do any of you use this gaget?
>http://www.sportflyingshop.com/Instr/Skydat_GX1/skydat_gx1.html
Er, I'm too young for a "senior moment" but I think I just had one... I did
say that it had been a while since I owned that trike, right? :-(
Anyway, the unit I owned was NOT a SkyDat, but a Digifly DU8... All the
comments I made are about the Digifly, but I'm sure the SkyDat's positive
qualities are as good as, if not better than, the Digifly.
Here's a picture of the Digifly DU8:
http://rtlaird.ath.cx:99/Aviation/digifly1.jpg
Sorry about the mix-up.
-- Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
Not me Paul, my gadget is a EIS, works great, and customer service that you
have never experienced before... Talk to Greg !!
company is Grand Rapids Technology
Richard Harris
MK3 N912RH
Lewisville, Arkansas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Skydat
>
> Hey Guys,
> Have any of you,are do any of you use this gaget?
> http://www.sportflyingshop.com/Instr/Skydat_GX1/skydat_gx1.html
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Paul,
WOW! You sure did some work. Thank you. I am building a 3 cylinder, 4
stroke, turbo charged, Suzuki based engine. Its a hybrid of an 87 Chevy
Sprint, a Geo Metro & Canadian Firefly. It's port injection uses a
regulated fuel supply with a return fuel line. The stock fuel pump is tank
mounted & I thus my search for another pump, plus I wanted redundancy.
Maybe one pump is reasonable enough, it would be simpler & lighter. I
assumed I'd need a check valve on both pumps in case either one failed, but
I haven't yet researched a valve so your PN is a big help. I've had this
project on the shelf for the last year due to health problem & am just now
starting up agian. My memoy is a liitle fussy about the fuel sysrtem
control of thr fuel pump. As I recall, the system shuts them on & off as
fuel is required. I need to get back to the schmatic & reread as to wether
it shuts the pumps off as they are neded, or leave them recirculating all
the time
I got an inertia shut off switch, but again, I'm afraid to install it as
a hard landing or rough thermal might de-actvate them. I got lots of
decisions to make yet..
I checked those John Deere priced in the next town & they are virtually
identrical to yours. Thanks agian Paul for your help. I'm looking
forwaord to getting with you about the best choice for the pump. Take Care.
Richard Swiserski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Fuel Pumps
>
> Richard,
>
> Took some time today to explore the fuel pump numbers. Here is what I
found so far. Napa offers several pumps. First is part number P5000 it
produces 75 psi and cost 99.00 bucks. Do not have a weight on it but ordered
one today and I'll weight it tomorrow and get back to you. The others that I
have in stock are 2P74028 for 62.99 and P74028 for 94.84 these both produce
90-100 psi and weigh 615 grams or 1.2 pounds. I have a set of digital scales
to mix paint with and that's how I came up with that. the "2P" is just a
cheaper version called tru-flow. They are both made by federal mogul and are
very reliable, if the application is correct. The key to these pumps is that
you will need a fuel return circuit. This allows the fuel flow to remain at
max to cool the electric motors. Otherwise they will burn up quick! Also you
mentioned installing in parallel. These pumps will not allow fuel flow if
not pumping. You will have to incorporate a bypass/check valve in to the
circuit. Pa!
> rt # 1691002. I'm sure you have already thought this through but incase
you haven't perhaps this will help. One more note, I don't know how you plan
to incorporate a safety shut off switch into the system, but on cars they
use an inertia switch that will shut down the pumps in case of a crash and
the fuel lines become severed. Back in the 80's ford used a frame mounted
fuel pump like the P74028 and we were goofing around one day and made a
water gun out of one that was defective. That this will shoot liquid 30-40
feet!
> As for the John Deere parts, the numbers would not cross to anything
available aftermarket. I did call the local dealer to see what they fit so I
could check it that way but no luck. He did quote me 145.49 as retail and
60.51 on the regulator. Perhaps your dealer is building a Kolb and needs the
extra money:-)
> By the way what engine are you using that has EFI?
>
> Later
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Skydat vs ESI |
I have a ESI as well & fully endorse Richard Harris opionion. they are
super people, interesrd in your project, & honest to boot! ..Richard
Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Skydat
<rharris@magnolia-net.com>
>
> Not me Paul, my gadget is a EIS, works great, and customer service that
you
> have never experienced before... Talk to Greg !!
>
> company is Grand Rapids Technology
>
>
> Richard Harris
> MK3 N912RH
> Lewisville, Arkansas
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: Skydat
>
>
> >
> > Hey Guys,
> > Have any of you,are do any of you use this gaget?
> > http://www.sportflyingshop.com/Instr/Skydat_GX1/skydat_gx1.html
> >
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Tonry" <rtonry(at)hotmail.com> |
My Buddy changed all the pins with bolts and castle nuts secured with cotter
pins. Makes for folding the wing a little more time consuming, but he never
folds them anyway.
----- Original Message -----
From: <GeoR38(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: safety pins
>
> In a message dated 12/3/02 11:47:35 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> ul15rhb(at)juno.com writes:
>
> > >>hey Ralph, what do you mean the easy start ones.....
> > >
> > >wonderen George Randolph
> >
> > George,
> >
> > The ring overlaps so that it will not come off (like a key ring), but
the
> > inner overlap is bent to the center so it can be started and wound
around
> > without prying apart the overlaps with the fingers. Does that make
sense?
> >
> > Ralph
> >
> > YUP
>
> GR
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Skydat vs ESI vs Stratomaster Series |
Has anyone used any of the Stratomaster series. Do they stand up to the ESI
or Skydat ?
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Cowan" <tcowan1917(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new generation engine |
Just for info and amusement. Check out the new concept motor from the smart
guy. Building the special FAR 103 helo. Go to: http://aerotwinmotors.com/
. Received email stating be ready for sale next year at about $6500.
Projects 80 lbs complete, 65 hp and 65 hundred bucks. cant wait to see how
this works. Just thought some might like to know. BTW, the airscooter is
at: www.airscooter.com
ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <peterv(at)etsmiami.com> |
I've just finished putting together a web site for our ultralight club.
If any of you are in South Florida and interested in joining us on a
fly-out, you would be warmly welcomed. We are also always on the
lookout for fly-out destinations, so if your club is within two or three
hundred miles of Miami, maybe we can plan on something together.
5 of our members fly Kolbs, so you could say that we are quite a
"respectable" club.
I apologize in advance for glitches. This is my first web writing
effort, so I'm sure there are still lots of bugs in the system.
The address is: www.lafa.com <http://www.lafa.com/>
Peter Volum
________________________________________________________________________________
Got the P5000 in today and it weighs the same 615 grams. A dandy looking
unit though. Let me know if you want some photos.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel Pumps
<swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
>
> Paul,
>
> WOW! You sure did some work. Thank you. I am building a 3 cylinder,
4
> stroke, turbo charged, Suzuki based engine. Its a hybrid of an 87 Chevy
> Sprint, a Geo Metro & Canadian Firefly. It's port injection uses a
> regulated fuel supply with a return fuel line. The stock fuel pump is
tank
> mounted & I thus my search for another pump, plus I wanted redundancy.
> Maybe one pump is reasonable enough, it would be simpler & lighter. I
> assumed I'd need a check valve on both pumps in case either one failed,
but
> I haven't yet researched a valve so your PN is a big help. I've had this
> project on the shelf for the last year due to health problem & am just now
> starting up agian. My memoy is a liitle fussy about the fuel sysrtem
> control of thr fuel pump. As I recall, the system shuts them on & off as
> fuel is required. I need to get back to the schmatic & reread as to wether
> it shuts the pumps off as they are neded, or leave them recirculating all
> the time
> I got an inertia shut off switch, but again, I'm afraid to install it
as
> a hard landing or rough thermal might de-actvate them. I got lots of
> decisions to make yet..
> I checked those John Deere priced in the next town & they are
virtually
> identrical to yours. Thanks agian Paul for your help. I'm looking
> forwaord to getting with you about the best choice for the pump. Take
Care.
> Richard Swiserski
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: Fuel Pumps
>
>
> >
> > Richard,
> >
> > Took some time today to explore the fuel pump numbers. Here is what I
> found so far. Napa offers several pumps. First is part number P5000 it
> produces 75 psi and cost 99.00 bucks. Do not have a weight on it but
ordered
> one today and I'll weight it tomorrow and get back to you. The others that
I
> have in stock are 2P74028 for 62.99 and P74028 for 94.84 these both
produce
> 90-100 psi and weigh 615 grams or 1.2 pounds. I have a set of digital
scales
> to mix paint with and that's how I came up with that. the "2P" is just a
> cheaper version called tru-flow. They are both made by federal mogul and
are
> very reliable, if the application is correct. The key to these pumps is
that
> you will need a fuel return circuit. This allows the fuel flow to remain
at
> max to cool the electric motors. Otherwise they will burn up quick! Also
you
> mentioned installing in parallel. These pumps will not allow fuel flow if
> not pumping. You will have to incorporate a bypass/check valve in to the
> circuit. Pa!
> > rt # 1691002. I'm sure you have already thought this through but incase
> you haven't perhaps this will help. One more note, I don't know how you
plan
> to incorporate a safety shut off switch into the system, but on cars they
> use an inertia switch that will shut down the pumps in case of a crash and
> the fuel lines become severed. Back in the 80's ford used a frame mounted
> fuel pump like the P74028 and we were goofing around one day and made a
> water gun out of one that was defective. That this will shoot liquid 30-40
> feet!
> > As for the John Deere parts, the numbers would not cross to anything
> available aftermarket. I did call the local dealer to see what they fit so
I
> could check it that way but no luck. He did quote me 145.49 as retail and
> 60.51 on the regulator. Perhaps your dealer is building a Kolb and needs
the
> extra money:-)
> > By the way what engine are you using that has EFI?
> >
> > Later
> > Paul
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincehallam(at)aol.com |
please tell us about function of red warning light
vnz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Stroberg" <dgstro(at)albemarlenet.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel tank Fittings |
Howdy Listers,
Happy hollidays to all.
I'm wondering if anyone has installed a aluminum fuel tank with the welded 3/8
NPT flanges and if so, what type of fittings did you use. I have four of these
fittings on my tank, two on top and two on the bottom. Aircraft Spruce has
a finger strainer that would be great for the bottom of the tank, but, I'd like
to draw fuel from the top of the tank. Need some sort of way to get a fuel
pipe through the 3/8 NPT fitting.
Dave, FirestarII, 503, 3 IVO, Full Lotus Monofloat amphibian.
Building MarkIII.
BTW, the Firestar is for sale, would make a wonderful christmas present for some
pilot or wannabe pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Skydat/EIS Red Light |
In the case of the EIS, the red warning light indicates an out-of-limit
of a preset number--as when you set EGT for 1200, the light comes on at
1200 and remains on as long as temp is 1200 or higher. At sa,me time the
out-of-tolerance parameter will flash on the display. Maybe I'll scan
the few pp in case anyone wants to see them. Won't be tonight as I'm on
dead line for book editing.
Bob N.
http://www.angelfire.com.rpg/ronoy/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank Fittings |
I have the 16 gal aluminum tank from TOK, and used the finger strainers in
the bottom of both sides. Also put a fuel shut-off on each side. See my
web-site for details on fuel drains, etc. Used the top one for vent and
fuel return from the injection system. With 2 fittings on yours, you could
drill out a 3/8" pipe plug, or what-ever, run a 5/16", or 3/8" copper tube
down thru it to the proper level, and solder, or silver solder it in place.
I like the silver solder, myself. I would also put an intake screen on that
type of pick-up as well. GoGittum Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Stroberg" <dgstro(at)albemarlenet.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Fuel tank Fittings
>
> Howdy Listers,
>
> Happy hollidays to all.
> I'm wondering if anyone has installed a aluminum fuel tank with the welded
3/8 NPT flanges and if so, what type of fittings did you use. I have four
of these fittings on my tank, two on top and two on the bottom. Aircraft
Spruce has a finger strainer that would be great for the bottom of the tank,
but, I'd like to draw fuel from the top of the tank. Need some sort of way
to get a fuel pipe through the 3/8 NPT fitting.
>
> Dave, FirestarII, 503, 3 IVO, Full Lotus Monofloat amphibian.
> Building MarkIII.
>
> BTW, the Firestar is for sale, would make a wonderful christmas present
for some pilot or wannabe pilot.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Metal Resourse ? |
Hello,
I'm looking for a resource to order some aluminum angle for an engine
mount. I tried the archives but no luck. Anyone have suggestions? Thanks
Richard Swiderski
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Conversion Program |
Hi
A while back, someone posted a great little program that converted
units, SAE to metric, watts to hp, ect. My computer crashed earlier this
year & I'm still recovering. Any help appreciated.
Richard Swiderski
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Jones" <kevin-jones(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank Fittings |
What is askng price?
kj
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Stroberg" <dgstro(at)albemarlenet.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Fuel tank Fittings
>
> Howdy Listers,
>
> Happy hollidays to all.
> I'm wondering if anyone has installed a aluminum fuel tank with the welded
3/8 NPT flanges and if so, what type of fittings did you use. I have four
of these fittings on my tank, two on top and two on the bottom. Aircraft
Spruce has a finger strainer that would be great for the bottom of the tank,
but, I'd like to draw fuel from the top of the tank. Need some sort of way
to get a fuel pipe through the 3/8 NPT fitting.
>
> Dave, FirestarII, 503, 3 IVO, Full Lotus Monofloat amphibian.
> Building MarkIII.
>
> BTW, the Firestar is for sale, would make a wonderful christmas present
for some pilot or wannabe pilot.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gtalexander(at)att.net |
| Subject: | Re: Conversion Program |
Richard:
Go to: http://www.joshmadison.com/software/
The program is called Convert.
George
> <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
>
> Hi
>
> A while back, someone posted a great little program that converted
> units, SAE to metric, watts to hp, ect. My computer crashed earlier this
> year & I'm still recovering. Any help appreciated.
>
> Richard Swiderski
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Conversion Program |
Richard, the program is called convert. I will try to sent to you off
line...
Richard Harris
MK3 N912RH
Lewisville, Arkansas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Conversion Program
<swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
>
> Hi
>
> A while back, someone posted a great little program that converted
> units, SAE to metric, watts to hp, ect. My computer crashed earlier this
> year & I'm still recovering. Any help appreciated.
>
> Richard Swiderski
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal Resourse ? |
You posted two messages, with two questions, but I get to answer both posts
with one message
The program that converts apples to oranges is called
Convert (Amazing!)
http://www.joshmadison.com/software
and Aircraft Spruce has aluminum angles in a bunch of sizes and lengths and
thicknesses, page 71 in the 2001-2002 catalog
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
><swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
>
>Hello,
>
> I'm looking for a resource to order some aluminum angle for an engine
>mount. I tried the archives but no luck. Anyone have suggestions? Thanks
>
>Richard Swiderski
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob" <rcarillon(at)neo.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal Resourse ? |
Richard,Try this site. Not sure if you will find what you need. Just had one
open in our area. Don't know much about them yet.
http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Metal Resourse ?
<swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
>
> Hello,
>
> I'm looking for a resource to order some aluminum angle for an engine
> mount. I tried the archives but no luck. Anyone have suggestions?
Thanks
>
> Richard Swiderski
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Conversion Program |
Gentlemen,
you guys are the best! I just had to ask & now I'm back at it
converting toes to fingers. Its an all time favorite. thanks
...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: <gtalexander(at)att.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Conversion Program
>
> Richard:
> Go to: http://www.joshmadison.com/software/
>
> The program is called Convert.
>
> George
> > <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
> >
> > Hi
> >
> > A while back, someone posted a great little program that converted
> > units, SAE to metric, watts to hp, ect. My computer crashed earlier
this
> > year & I'm still recovering. Any help appreciated.
> >
> > Richard Swiderski
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal Resourse ? |
Here's links to a couple other meetal suppliers:
http://www.shapirosupply.com/
http://www.suppliersonline.com/
><swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
>
>Hello,
>
> I'm looking for a resource to order some aluminum angle for an engine
>mount. I tried the archives but no luck. Anyone have suggestions? Thanks
>
>Richard Swiderski
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank Fittings |
You should be able to put in a brass fitting - 1/4" OD tube compression to
3/8" MPT (male pipe thread). Unless you can find one that's bored through
for the 1/4" tubing, normally they are manufactured with tubing stops, you
may have to do that yourself. You should be able to bore it through your
self since the compression end of the fitting holding the tubing does not
have to provide a perfect seal around the tubing. (After boring I would
think the compression joint should be tight enough that it will seal for a
liquid around the tube, the tube will be continuous passing through the
fitting so there would be no suction leak.) The fitting should be
available at Lowe's, Home Depot, or a good hardware. Use a 1/4" OD piece
of copper as pickup and secure it with at the entrance with the compression
part of the fitting. Bored through fittings are available but probably
difficult to find at general plumbing supply outlets, may find them at
industrial-instrumentation supply houses.
Here's a link to Swagelok showing the fitting:
http://www.swagelok.com/product.asp?tp=117&ct=657&tpd=Fittings+%2D+Tube&ctd=Bored%2DThrough%3A+Connects+tubing+to+female+thread&bigp=CPH351%2DS%2Ejpg&nump=76&group=FITTINGS&GroupDescjerb
>
>What is askng price?
>kj
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dave Stroberg" <dgstro(at)albemarlenet.com>
>To:
>Subject: Kolb-List: Fuel tank Fittings
>
>
> >
> > Howdy Listers,
> >
> > Happy hollidays to all.
> > I'm wondering if anyone has installed a aluminum fuel tank with the welded
>3/8 NPT flanges and if so, what type of fittings did you use. I have four
>of these fittings on my tank, two on top and two on the bottom. Aircraft
>Spruce has a finger strainer that would be great for the bottom of the tank,
>but, I'd like to draw fuel from the top of the tank. Need some sort of way
>to get a fuel pipe through the 3/8 NPT fitting.
> >
> > Dave, FirestarII, 503, 3 IVO, Full Lotus Monofloat amphibian.
> > Building MarkIII.
> >
> > BTW, the Firestar is for sale, would make a wonderful christmas present
>for some pilot or wannabe pilot.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank Fittings |
That'll work, but be VERY careful using compression fittings on fuel lines.
For the last 20 yrs, I've made my living in a/c/refrigeration/commercial
appliance & restaurant service, and have used 100's of them. My experience
has been iffy, and I'd be extremely spooky using them on flammables.
Probably the biggest problem I've seen is with people cranking them down too
tight, (they should be snug, plus a "little bit") which does 2 things.
1.) They'll tend to loosen in the sleeves, and there's no more slack to be
taken, and 2.) As you tighten the fitting, the ferrule will squeeze down
the diameter of the tubing, which could restrict the flow. On 1/4" tubing,
if you were to tighten the ferrule all the way down, I doubt if you'd have
more than about 1/8" I.D., and have an un-stop-able potential leak, to boot.
On water lines, such as on your refrigerators' ice maker, they do fairly
well, since if they start to leak, you can crank down a bit on the nut till
it stops, and only suffer a wet floor.. (usually - see "1" above.) You
wanna do that every time you smell gas ?? On more demanding applications,
(refrigeration) we just don't use them. Period. In that application, we
use flare fittings, or silver solder. Sorry, but I'd recommend
against them. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerb" <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel tank Fittings
>
> You should be able to put in a brass fitting - 1/4" OD tube compression to
> 3/8" MPT (male pipe thread). Unless you can find one that's bored through
> for the 1/4" tubing, normally they are manufactured with tubing stops,
you
> may have to do that yourself. You should be able to bore it through your
> self since the compression end of the fitting holding the tubing does not
> have to provide a perfect seal around the tubing. (After boring I would
> think the compression joint should be tight enough that it will seal for a
> liquid around the tube, the tube will be continuous passing through the
> fitting so there would be no suction leak.) The fitting should be
> available at Lowe's, Home Depot, or a good hardware. Use a 1/4" OD piece
> of copper as pickup and secure it with at the entrance with the
compression
> part of the fitting. Bored through fittings are available but probably
> difficult to find at general plumbing supply outlets, may find them at
> industrial-instrumentation supply houses.
> Here's a link to Swagelok showing the fitting:
>
http://www.swagelok.com/product.asp?tp=117&ct=657&tpd=Fittings+%2D+Tube&ctdBored%2DThrough%3A+Connects+tubing+to+female+thread&bigp=CPH351%2DS%2Ejpg&nu
mp=76&group=FITTINGS&GroupDescjerb
>
>
> >
> >What is askng price?
> >kj
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Dave Stroberg" <dgstro(at)albemarlenet.com>
> >To:
> >Subject: Kolb-List: Fuel tank Fittings
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Howdy Listers,
> > >
> > > Happy hollidays to all.
> > > I'm wondering if anyone has installed a aluminum fuel tank with the
welded
> >3/8 NPT flanges and if so, what type of fittings did you use. I have
four
> >of these fittings on my tank, two on top and two on the bottom. Aircraft
> >Spruce has a finger strainer that would be great for the bottom of the
tank,
> >but, I'd like to draw fuel from the top of the tank. Need some sort of
way
> >to get a fuel pipe through the 3/8 NPT fitting.
> > >
> > > Dave, FirestarII, 503, 3 IVO, Full Lotus Monofloat amphibian.
> > > Building MarkIII.
> > >
> > > BTW, the Firestar is for sale, would make a wonderful christmas
present
> >for some pilot or wannabe pilot.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: spark plug wire spreader thingies |
Denny, it's all your fault..............there I was, sprawled in bed,
reading a good mystery, and got to noodling about your spreaders. Then, it
hit me................if all you need is separation, and not real sexy
looks, make your spreaders out of BLACK ty-raps (wire ties) and short pieces
of 1/4" I.D. hose. If you have 4 wires, string 3 pieces of hose, each, say,
3/8" inch long, on the ty-rap; then bend it around the 1st wire, thru the
1st piece of hose; over the 2nd wire, thru the 2nd piece; over the 3rd wire,
etc. Take a look at my "engine & redrive" section for a look at the basic
idea. To tie them to a support, add 1 more piece of
hose...............doesn't have to be on an end; could be between any of
the wires. Harrrrr..................gonna take another look at Vamoose'
wiring now...........! ! ! Woke-Up Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <rowedl(at)highstream.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: spark plug wire spreader thingies
>
> Kolbers,
> I have been checking the local autoparts for the little clips that keep
your spark plug wires spaced evenly apart. Nobody seems to have em. I need
a couple two wire ones and a handfull of three wire ones. Would also like
to have a few of the triples with bolt holes for attaching to the airframe.
> Anybody know where I can find these things?
> Denny Rowe
> Building Mk-3
> 690L-70
> Leechburg, PA
> Getting close, real close.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 12/5/02 12:13:31 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rtonry(at)hotmail.com writes:
> My Buddy changed all the pins with bolts and castle nuts secured with cotter
> pins. Makes for folding the wing a little more time consuming, but he never
> folds them anyway.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <GeoR38(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: safety pins
>
>
> I have folded my plane since 1992 and have never had a problem....indeed, I
consider the folding an opportunity to inspect fitness and condition of the
pins and the holes they go through....kinda forces a more detailed check.
Which reminds me, my struts are gettin kinda loose...we use to talk about
bushings here ....anyone do that on their struts?
george Randolph
firestar driver from Akron, O
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Greetings from the arctic NE. I've installed the standard 2 five gal tanks
on my MkIII and intend to draw off the top. Has anyone used or have
an opinion of using the weighted flop tube arrangement vs a rigid pickup?
- BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Russell" <jr(at)rometool.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum angle message of Thu, 5 Dec 2002 23:56:20 |
-0800
www.mcmaster.com is a great source for all sorts of stuff, including
aluminum.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Armstrong" <cen33475(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Metal Resourse ? |
I generally would not consider aluminum as a great choice for an engine
mount, because it tends to crack due to vibration. it you use it, pay
exceptional attention to the surface finish, basically polish the whole
thing, including the insides of the holes!
topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank Fittings |
Gee Lar, just how tight are you tightening them there things. Use them all
the time for general plumbing and instrumentation applications without any
problem. If your tightening it to the point of crushing the tube, you by
far are over tightening them. When properly tightened the ferrel should
squeeze down to the point where it just bits into the tubing where it will
not slide off the tube. The Challenger uses the very same fitting on there
10 gallon tank. The the compression part of the through fitting is only
holding the tube and only requires being tightened enough where the tube
can not be pulled out.
OH, one important thing I forgot to mention is cut a slot about 3/8" long
in the pick up end of the tube (the end inside the tank) in the direction
of the length of the tube. This is in case some debris should cover the
end of the pick up, it can still suck fuel in through the slot.
jerb
>
>That'll work, but be VERY careful using compression fittings on fuel lines.
>For the last 20 yrs, I've made my living in a/c/refrigeration/commercial
>appliance & restaurant service, and have used 100's of them. My experience
>has been iffy, and I'd be extremely spooky using them on flammables.
>Probably the biggest problem I've seen is with people cranking them down too
>tight, (they should be snug, plus a "little bit") which does 2 things.
>1.) They'll tend to loosen in the sleeves, and there's no more slack to be
>taken, and 2.) As you tighten the fitting, the ferrule will squeeze down
>the diameter of the tubing, which could restrict the flow. On 1/4" tubing,
>if you were to tighten the ferrule all the way down, I doubt if you'd have
>more than about 1/8" I.D., and have an un-stop-able potential leak, to boot.
>On water lines, such as on your refrigerators' ice maker, they do fairly
>well, since if they start to leak, you can crank down a bit on the nut till
>it stops, and only suffer a wet floor.. (usually - see "1" above.) You
>wanna do that every time you smell gas ?? On more demanding applications,
>(refrigeration) we just don't use them. Period. In that application, we
>use flare fittings, or silver solder. Sorry, but I'd recommend
>against them. Lar.
>
>Larry Bourne
>Palm Springs, CA
>Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
>www.gogittum.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "jerb" <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
>To:
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel tank Fittings
>
>
> >
> > You should be able to put in a brass fitting - 1/4" OD tube compression to
> > 3/8" MPT (male pipe thread). Unless you can find one that's bored through
> > for the 1/4" tubing, normally they are manufactured with tubing stops,
>you
> > may have to do that yourself. You should be able to bore it through your
> > self since the compression end of the fitting holding the tubing does not
> > have to provide a perfect seal around the tubing. (After boring I would
> > think the compression joint should be tight enough that it will seal for a
> > liquid around the tube, the tube will be continuous passing through the
> > fitting so there would be no suction leak.) The fitting should be
> > available at Lowe's, Home Depot, or a good hardware. Use a 1/4" OD piece
> > of copper as pickup and secure it with at the entrance with the
>compression
> > part of the fitting. Bored through fittings are available but probably
> > difficult to find at general plumbing supply outlets, may find them at
> > industrial-instrumentation supply houses.
> > Here's a link to Swagelok showing the fitting:
> >
>http://www.swagelok.com/product.asp?tp=117&ct=657&tpd=Fittings+%2D+Tube&ctdBored%2DThrough%3A+Connects+tubing+to+female+thread&bigp=CPH351%2DS%2Ejpg&nu
>mp=76&group=FITTINGS&GroupDescjerb
> >
> >
> > >
> > >What is askng price?
> > >kj
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "Dave Stroberg" <dgstro(at)albemarlenet.com>
> > >To:
> > >Subject: Kolb-List: Fuel tank Fittings
> > >
> > >
>
> > > >
> > > > Howdy Listers,
> > > >
> > > > Happy hollidays to all.
> > > > I'm wondering if anyone has installed a aluminum fuel tank with the
>welded
> > >3/8 NPT flanges and if so, what type of fittings did you use. I have
>four
> > >of these fittings on my tank, two on top and two on the bottom. Aircraft
> > >Spruce has a finger strainer that would be great for the bottom of the
>tank,
> > >but, I'd like to draw fuel from the top of the tank. Need some sort of
>way
> > >to get a fuel pipe through the 3/8 NPT fitting.
> > > >
> > > > Dave, FirestarII, 503, 3 IVO, Full Lotus Monofloat amphibian.
> > > > Building MarkIII.
> > > >
> > > > BTW, the Firestar is for sale, would make a wonderful christmas
>present
> > >for some pilot or wannabe pilot.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
Weighted flop tubes are a good choice.
And they also make a gascolator even more important.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Greetings from the arctic NE. I've installed the standard 2 five gal tanks
>on my MkIII and intend to draw off the top. Has anyone used or have
>an opinion of using the weighted flop tube arrangement vs a rigid pickup?
>- BB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank Fittings |
At a boat dealer you should be able to pick up some of those finger
strainers that are used in the red plastic 6 gallon boat tanks on the ends
of the pick up tubes. Stick one of those on the end of any pickup that is
in your fuel tank. Won't keep out water, but will keep out anything else,
and won't get blocked up.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>OH, one important thing I forgot to mention is cut a slot about 3/8" long
>in the pick up end of the tube (the end inside the tank) in the direction
>of the length of the tube. This is in case some debris should cover the
>end of the pick up, it can still suck fuel in through the slot.
>jerb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank Fittings |
Naw, Jerb, ya didn't catch me this time........................I said "the
biggest problem I've seen," then gave the correct way to tighten them.
(Some deep fryer thermostats use a 1/16" inch capillary tube and compression
fitting. Tighten them 1/4 turn too much, and they're blocked - squeezed
shut) What I said is true...............they DO work..............but they
also have a proportion of leaks. In the application on the Challenger, it'd
probably be fine, plus the fitting would be accessible, since it's right up
on top. If it wasn't sealed right, a little stain & odor would result from
fuel sloshing in the tank. That wouldn't be a real problem. My main
concern was for people who might use them to connect a fuel line under the
tank, or connect 2 portions of fuel tubing. BTW, flares can come loose,
too, especially in areas of great temperature variation, such as the suction
side of refrigeration expansion valves; but it's uncommon, and extreme,
compared to our use. They're also more difficult to form, and
connect.............properly. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerb" <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel tank Fittings
>
> Gee Lar, just how tight are you tightening them there things. Use them
all
> the time for general plumbing and instrumentation applications without any
> problem. If your tightening it to the point of crushing the tube, you by
> far are over tightening them. When properly tightened the ferrel should
> squeeze down to the point where it just bits into the tubing where it will
> not slide off the tube. The Challenger uses the very same fitting on
there
> 10 gallon tank. The the compression part of the through fitting is only
> holding the tube and only requires being tightened enough where the tube
> can not be pulled out.
>
> OH, one important thing I forgot to mention is cut a slot about 3/8" long
> in the pick up end of the tube (the end inside the tank) in the direction
> of the length of the tube. This is in case some debris should cover the
> end of the pick up, it can still suck fuel in through the slot.
> jerb
>
>
> >
> >That'll work, but be VERY careful using compression fittings on fuel
lines.
> >For the last 20 yrs, I've made my living in a/c/refrigeration/commercial
> >appliance & restaurant service, and have used 100's of them. My
experience
> >has been iffy, and I'd be extremely spooky using them on flammables.
> >Probably the biggest problem I've seen is with people cranking them down
too
> >tight, (they should be snug, plus a "little bit") which does 2 things.
> >1.) They'll tend to loosen in the sleeves, and there's no more slack to
be
> >taken, and 2.) As you tighten the fitting, the ferrule will squeeze
down
> >the diameter of the tubing, which could restrict the flow. On 1/4"
tubing,
> >if you were to tighten the ferrule all the way down, I doubt if you'd
have
> >more than about 1/8" I.D., and have an un-stop-able potential leak, to
boot.
> >On water lines, such as on your refrigerators' ice maker, they do fairly
> >well, since if they start to leak, you can crank down a bit on the nut
till
> >it stops, and only suffer a wet floor.. (usually - see "1" above.) You
> >wanna do that every time you smell gas ?? On more demanding
applications,
> >(refrigeration) we just don't use them. Period. In that application,
we
> >use flare fittings, or silver solder. Sorry, but I'd
recommend
> >against them. Lar.
> >
> >Larry Bourne
> >Palm Springs, CA
> >Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
> >www.gogittum.com
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "jerb" <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel tank Fittings
> >
> >
> > >
> > > You should be able to put in a brass fitting - 1/4" OD tube
compression to
> > > 3/8" MPT (male pipe thread). Unless you can find one that's bored
through
> > > for the 1/4" tubing, normally they are manufactured with tubing
stops,
> >you
> > > may have to do that yourself. You should be able to bore it through
your
> > > self since the compression end of the fitting holding the tubing does
not
> > > have to provide a perfect seal around the tubing. (After boring I
would
> > > think the compression joint should be tight enough that it will seal
for a
> > > liquid around the tube, the tube will be continuous passing through
the
> > > fitting so there would be no suction leak.) The fitting should be
> > > available at Lowe's, Home Depot, or a good hardware. Use a 1/4" OD
piece
> > > of copper as pickup and secure it with at the entrance with the
> >compression
> > > part of the fitting. Bored through fittings are available but
probably
> > > difficult to find at general plumbing supply outlets, may find them at
> > > industrial-instrumentation supply houses.
> > > Here's a link to Swagelok showing the fitting:
> > >
>
>http://www.swagelok.com/product.asp?tp=117&ct=657&tpd=Fittings+%2D+Tube&ctd
Bored%2DThrough%3A+Connects+tubing+to+female+thread&bigp=CPH351%2DS%2Ejpg&nu
> >mp=76&group=FITTINGS&GroupDescjerb
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > >What is askng price?
> > > >kj
> > > >----- Original Message -----
> > > >From: "Dave Stroberg" <dgstro(at)albemarlenet.com>
> > > >To:
> > > >Subject: Kolb-List: Fuel tank Fittings
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> > > > >
> > > > > Howdy Listers,
> > > > >
> > > > > Happy hollidays to all.
> > > > > I'm wondering if anyone has installed a aluminum fuel tank with
the
> >welded
> > > >3/8 NPT flanges and if so, what type of fittings did you use. I have
> >four
> > > >of these fittings on my tank, two on top and two on the bottom.
Aircraft
> > > >Spruce has a finger strainer that would be great for the bottom of
the
> >tank,
> > > >but, I'd like to draw fuel from the top of the tank. Need some sort
of
> >way
> > > >to get a fuel pipe through the 3/8 NPT fitting.
> > > > >
> > > > > Dave, FirestarII, 503, 3 IVO, Full Lotus Monofloat amphibian.
> > > > > Building MarkIII.
> > > > >
> > > > > BTW, the Firestar is for sale, would make a wonderful christmas
> >present
> > > >for some pilot or wannabe pilot.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank Fittings |
concerning compression fittings---there's all levels, from
polyflow/plastic (nyloc)
polyflow/metal (stainless and brass) , ordinary automotive cone and/or ball,
and the top of the line, Swagelok, also available from clone manufacturers.
Swagelok is extremely hardy, reliable and expensive. I've used it to pipe
everything from vacuum to liquid nitrogen. -never fails. -BB
Larry Bourne wrote:
>
>Naw, Jerb, ya didn't catch me this time........................I said "the
>biggest problem I've seen," then gave the correct way to tighten them.
>(Some deep fryer thermostats use a 1/16" inch capillary tube and compression
>fitting. Tighten them 1/4 turn too much, and they're blocked - squeezed
>shut) What I said is true...............they DO work..............but they
>also have a proportion of leaks. In the application on the Challenger, it'd
>probably be fine, plus the fitting would be accessible, since it's right up
>on top. If it wasn't sealed right, a little stain & odor would result from
>fuel sloshing in the tank. That wouldn't be a real problem. My main
>concern was for people who might use them to connect a fuel line under the
>tank, or connect 2 portions of fuel tubing. BTW, flares can come loose,
>too, especially in areas of great temperature variation, such as the suction
>side of refrigeration expansion valves; but it's uncommon, and extreme,
>compared to our use. They're also more difficult to form, and
>connect.............properly. Lar.
>
>Larry Bourne
>Palm Springs, CA
>Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
>www.gogittum.com
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "jerb" <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
>To:
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel tank Fittings
>
>
>
>
>>
>>Gee Lar, just how tight are you tightening them there things. Use them
>>
>>
>all
>
>
>>the time for general plumbing and instrumentation applications without any
>>problem. If your tightening it to the point of crushing the tube, you by
>>far are over tightening them. When properly tightened the ferrel should
>>squeeze down to the point where it just bits into the tubing where it will
>>not slide off the tube. The Challenger uses the very same fitting on
>>
>>
>there
>
>
>>10 gallon tank. The the compression part of the through fitting is only
>>holding the tube and only requires being tightened enough where the tube
>>can not be pulled out.
>>
>>OH, one important thing I forgot to mention is cut a slot about 3/8" long
>>in the pick up end of the tube (the end inside the tank) in the direction
>>of the length of the tube. This is in case some debris should cover the
>>end of the pick up, it can still suck fuel in through the slot.
>>jerb
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>That'll work, but be VERY careful using compression fittings on fuel
>>>
>>>
>lines.
>
>
>>>For the last 20 yrs, I've made my living in a/c/refrigeration/commercial
>>>appliance & restaurant service, and have used 100's of them. My
>>>
>>>
>experience
>
>
>>>has been iffy, and I'd be extremely spooky using them on flammables.
>>>Probably the biggest problem I've seen is with people cranking them down
>>>
>>>
>too
>
>
>>>tight, (they should be snug, plus a "little bit") which does 2 things.
>>>1.) They'll tend to loosen in the sleeves, and there's no more slack to
>>>
>>>
>be
>
>
>>>taken, and 2.) As you tighten the fitting, the ferrule will squeeze
>>>
>>>
>down
>
>
>>>the diameter of the tubing, which could restrict the flow. On 1/4"
>>>
>>>
>tubing,
>
>
>>>if you were to tighten the ferrule all the way down, I doubt if you'd
>>>
>>>
>have
>
>
>>>more than about 1/8" I.D., and have an un-stop-able potential leak, to
>>>
>>>
>boot.
>
>
>>>On water lines, such as on your refrigerators' ice maker, they do fairly
>>>well, since if they start to leak, you can crank down a bit on the nut
>>>
>>>
>till
>
>
>>>it stops, and only suffer a wet floor.. (usually - see "1" above.) You
>>>wanna do that every time you smell gas ?? On more demanding
>>>
>>>
>applications,
>
>
>>>(refrigeration) we just don't use them. Period. In that application,
>>>
>>>
>we
>
>
>>>use flare fittings, or silver solder. Sorry, but I'd
>>>
>>>
>recommend
>
>
>>>against them. Lar.
>>>
>>>Larry Bourne
>>>Palm Springs, CA
>>>Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
>>>www.gogittum.com
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "jerb" <ulflyer(at)airmail.net>
>>>To:
>>>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel tank Fittings
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>You should be able to put in a brass fitting - 1/4" OD tube
>>>>
>>>>
>compression to
>
>
>>>>3/8" MPT (male pipe thread). Unless you can find one that's bored
>>>>
>>>>
>through
>
>
>>>>for the 1/4" tubing, normally they are manufactured with tubing
>>>>
>>>>
>stops,
>
>
>>>you
>>>
>>>
>>>>may have to do that yourself. You should be able to bore it through
>>>>
>>>>
>your
>
>
>>>>self since the compression end of the fitting holding the tubing does
>>>>
>>>>
>not
>
>
>>>>have to provide a perfect seal around the tubing. (After boring I
>>>>
>>>>
>would
>
>
>>>>think the compression joint should be tight enough that it will seal
>>>>
>>>>
>for a
>
>
>>>>liquid around the tube, the tube will be continuous passing through
>>>>
>>>>
>the
>
>
>>>>fitting so there would be no suction leak.) The fitting should be
>>>>available at Lowe's, Home Depot, or a good hardware. Use a 1/4" OD
>>>>
>>>>
>piece
>
>
>>>>of copper as pickup and secure it with at the entrance with the
>>>>
>>>>
>>>compression
>>>
>>>
>>>>part of the fitting. Bored through fittings are available but
>>>>
>>>>
>probably
>
>
>>>>difficult to find at general plumbing supply outlets, may find them at
>>>>industrial-instrumentation supply houses.
>>>>Here's a link to Swagelok showing the fitting:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>http://www.swagelok.com/product.asp?tp=117&ct=657&tpd=Fittings+%2D+Tube&ctd
>>
>>
>Bored%2DThrough%3A+Connects+tubing+to+female+thread&bigp=CPH351%2DS%2Ejpg&nu
>
>
>>>mp=76&group=FITTINGS&GroupDescjerb
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>What is askng price?
>>>>>kj
>>>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>>>From: "Dave Stroberg" <dgstro(at)albemarlenet.com>
>>>>>To:
>>>>>Subject: Kolb-List: Fuel tank Fittings
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>Howdy Listers,
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Happy hollidays to all.
>>>>>>I'm wondering if anyone has installed a aluminum fuel tank with
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>the
>
>
>>>welded
>>>
>>>
>>>>>3/8 NPT flanges and if so, what type of fittings did you use. I have
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>four
>>>
>>>
>>>>>of these fittings on my tank, two on top and two on the bottom.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>Aircraft
>
>
>>>>>Spruce has a finger strainer that would be great for the bottom of
>>>>>
>>>>>
>the
>
>
>>>tank,
>>>
>>>
>>>>>but, I'd like to draw fuel from the top of the tank. Need some sort
>>>>>
>>>>>
>of
>
>
>>>way
>>>
>>>
>>>>>to get a fuel pipe through the 3/8 NPT fitting.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Dave, FirestarII, 503, 3 IVO, Full Lotus Monofloat amphibian.
>>>>>>Building MarkIII.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>BTW, the Firestar is for sale, would make a wonderful christmas
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>present
>>>
>>>
>>>>>for some pilot or wannabe pilot.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | MkIII down in Arkansas |
Listers,
This MkIII accident was posted on the 12/06/02 issue of aero-news (
www.aero-news.net ). Anyone know any details? Fortunately, only minor
injuries reported.
Ed in JXN
MkII/503
** Report created 12/5/02 Record 6 **
IDENTIFICATION
Regis#: 4672D Make/Model: EXP Description: EXP-KOLB MARK III
Date: 11/28/2002 Time: 2115
Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: Minor Mid Air: N Missing: N
Damage: Destroyed
LOCATION
City: NORFORK State: AR Country: US
DESCRIPTION
ACFT LOST POWER ON TAKEOFF ON ITS MAIDEN FLIGHT FROM A GRASS FIELD. ACFT
LIFTED 100 FEET AND CRASHED IN TREES. THE TWO PERSONS ON BOARD SUFFERED
MINOR INJURIES. THE ACFT WAS DESTROYED. NORFORK, AR
INJURY DATA Total Fatal: 0
# Crew: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 1 Unk:
# Pass: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 1 Unk:
# Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:
WEATHER: UNKN
OTHER DATA
Activity: Pleasure Phase: Take-off Operation: General Aviation
Departed: UNKN Dep Date: Dep. Time:
Destination: UNKN Flt Plan: NONE Wx Briefing:
N
Last Radio Cont:
Last Clearance:
FAA FSDO: LITTLE ROCK, AR (SW11) Entry date: 11/29/2002
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | fuel line in top of alum tank |
if you have a 3/8 ip flange welded in the tip of the
tank... you would be best served if you would go to a
local plumbing or hardware and buy a 3/8 ip (iron pipe
thread ) by 3/8 compression adapter..... it will have a
tube stop in it so the 3/8 tube wont go too far into the
fitting.... if you take a 3/8 drill and drill from the ip
side into the fitting you will remove the tubing stop....
then i would take a piece of 3/8 stainless steel tubing and
put down through the fitting....... i worry about a copper
suction tube cracking and breaking.... or better yet take
the fuel off the bottom of the tank and put in an electronic
fuel sender in the top...
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MkIII down in Arkansas |
| From: | Gene Ledbetter <gdledbetter1(at)fuse.net> |
>
Two folks on board on its maiden flight?
Gene
-------------------------------------------------
> DESCRIPTION
> ACFT LOST POWER ON TAKEOFF ON ITS MAIDEN FLIGHT FROM A GRASS FIELD.
> ACFT
> LIFTED 100 FEET AND CRASHED IN TREES. THE TWO PERSONS ON BOARD SUFFERED
> MINOR INJURIES. THE ACFT WAS DESTROYED. NORFORK, AR
> INJURY DATA Total Fatal: 0
> # Crew: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 1
> Unk:
> # Pass: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 1
> Unk:
> # Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0
> Unk:
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heaters again |
Larry,
Received the heater today, thanks, what do I owe you???
A few questions, where did you find the control cable?? You said to get the
good one so where did you get the good one?
You have the Scat tubing exiting from the rear, I was thinking to have it
exit forward so it's away from the prob and so I don't have to have the scat
tube go around and under the carbs, Might be a cleaner shorter route for my
application, do you see anything wrong with this??
Thanks again.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Heaters again |
I am coming in on the tail of this thread but a word of caution. If you
are using some type of heater hose to the fan shroud on a 503 make
DOUBLE sure that the tube can't get to the prop if it comes loose from
its attachment to the engine. (Ask J.D. Stewart who monitors this list
what a heater hose snagged to the prop will do for you...) Other than
that little caveat piping the waste heat from the engine to warm your
shivering body is great...
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Timandjan(at)aol.com
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Heaters again
Larry,
Received the heater today, thanks, what do I owe you???
A few questions, where did you find the control cable?? You said to get
the
good one so where did you get the good one?
You have the Scat tubing exiting from the rear, I was thinking to have
it
exit forward so it's away from the prob and so I don't have to have the
scat
tube go around and under the carbs, Might be a cleaner shorter route for
my
application, do you see anything wrong with this??
Thanks again.
Tim
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MkIII down in Arkansas |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Guys,
It's good to hear they received only minor injuries. Since this was the
maiden flight, it makes me wonder if they tied the tail down and ran it
for an hour before taking it up.
Ralph
writes:
>
>
> >
>
> Two folks on board on its maiden flight?
>
> Gene
> -------------------------------------------------
>
> > DESCRIPTION
> > ACFT LOST POWER ON TAKEOFF ON ITS MAIDEN FLIGHT FROM A GRASS
> FIELD.
> > ACFT
> > LIFTED 100 FEET AND CRASHED IN TREES. THE TWO PERSONS ON BOARD
> SUFFERED
> > MINOR INJURIES. THE ACFT WAS DESTROYED. NORFORK, AR
> > INJURY DATA Total Fatal: 0
> > # Crew: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 1
>
> > Unk:
> > # Pass: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min:
> 1
> > Unk:
> > # Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min:
> 0
> > Unk:
>
>
>
> _->
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)inebraska.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heaters again |
http://challenger.inebraska.com/prop_wrap.htm
:>(
J.D. Stewart
Internet Nebraska-Norfolk
http://www.inebraska.com
UltraFun AirSports
http://www.ultrafunairsports.com
Challenger Owners E-mail list and Website Administrator
http://challenger.inebraska.com
> I am coming in on the tail of this thread but a word of caution. If you
> are using some type of heater hose to the fan shroud on a 503 make
> DOUBLE sure that the tube can't get to the prop if it comes loose from
> its attachment to the engine. (Ask J.D. Stewart who monitors this list
> what a heater hose snagged to the prop will do for you...) Other than
> that little caveat piping the waste heat from the engine to warm your
> shivering body is great...
>
> Jeremy Casey
> jrcasey(at)ldl.net
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MkIII down in Arkansas |
Ed: That was my plane and it wasn't a test flight or maiden flight. FAA
took first=0D
flight of the day and made a maiden out of it. I have been trying to send
pictures=0D
to the photo list, but have been unsuccessful so far. I seem to get them to
every=0D
one else except pictures(at)matronics.com . I don't know what I'm doing wrong,
but =0D
I do know what I did wrong on the preflight. Didn't detect water in the gas
and that's=0D
what we found in the carburetor when we took the bowl off. I took that same
gas, =0D
there was about 6 gallons left that didn't run into the cockpit, and I run
it through=0D
Mr. Funnel and put it in my Windstar van. I started to go someplace last
night and =0D
got 900 feet from my house and the van quit running. I'm waiting for a tow
right=0D
now. It doesn't seem to be getting gas and we had low temperatures of 16
degrees=0D
last night and the night before. Frozen gas line???? I did not see any
water in =0D
Mr. Funnel either. Things just aren't going my way lately. Scaffold
crushed my =0D
hearing aid that dropped to the floor, ice storm just collapsed my 10 X 16
foot=0D
awning on my deck, complete loss, plus other things. Getting paranoid =0D
and I can't fly.=0D
Dallas Shepherd=0D
Norfork, Arkansas=0D
Kolb Mark 3/ 2200 Jabiru=0D
P.S. Got a brand new sensenich prop sitting out there that I didn't get to
try=0D
out either. =0D
=0D
-------Original Message-------=0D
=0D
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com=0D
Date: Friday, December 06, 2002 12:13:05=0D
Subject: Kolb-List: MkIII down in Arkansas=0D
=0D
=0D
Listers,=0D
=0D
This MkIII accident was posted on the 12/06/02 issue of aero-news (=0D
www.aero-news.net ). Anyone know any details? Fortunately, only minor=0D
injuries reported.=0D
=0D
Ed in JXN=0D
MkII/503=0D
=0D
** Report created 12/5/02 Record 6 **=0D
IDENTIFICATION=0D
Regis#: 4672D Make/Model: EXP Description: EXP-KOLB MARK III=0D
Date: 11/28/2002 Time: 2115=0D
Event Type: Accident Highest Injury: Minor Mid Air: N Missing: N=0D
Damage: Destroyed=0D
LOCATION=0D
City: NORFORK State: AR Country: US=0D
DESCRIPTION=0D
ACFT LOST POWER ON TAKEOFF ON ITS MAIDEN FLIGHT FROM A GRASS FIELD. ACFT=0D
LIFTED 100 FEET AND CRASHED IN TREES. THE TWO PERSONS ON BOARD SUFFERED=0D
MINOR INJURIES. THE ACFT WAS DESTROYED. NORFORK, AR=0D
INJURY DATA Total Fatal: 0=0D
# Crew: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 1 Unk:=0D
# Pass: 1 Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 1 Unk:=0D
# Grnd: Fat: 0 Ser: 0 Min: 0 Unk:=0D
WEATHER: UNKN=0D
OTHER DATA=0D
Activity: Pleasure Phase: Take-off Operation: General Aviation=0D
Departed: UNKN Dep Date: Dep. Time:=0D
Destination: UNKN Flt Plan: NONE Wx Briefing:=0D
N=0D
Last Radio Cont:=0D
Last Clearance:=0D
FAA FSDO: LITTLE ROCK, AR (SW11) Entry date: 11/29/2002=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=2E
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
| Subject: | MkIII down in Arkansas |
Getting paranoid =0D
and I can't fly.=0D
Dallas Shepherd=0D
Norfork, Arkansas=0D
Kolb Mark 3/ 2200 Jabiru=0D
P.S. Got a brand new sensenich prop sitting out there that I didn't get
to
try=0D
out either. =0D
Dallas,
Have you walked under any ladders lately? If you see a black
cat...kill it and eat it.... ;-)
Chin up buddy!
Jeremy Casey
P.S. If I remember the story right, Mr. Goodyear burnt himself on the
stove right before he dropped the rubber concoction on the eye and
discovered vulcanization...he made a "few" dollars off that one... ;-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | =OD's and all those numbers and letters |
Listers:=0D
Can anyone tell me what to do about all those OD's and assorted garbage that
shows up when I send a message to the list? How do you highlight just a
portion of the message you are answering. I either get one word highlighted
or the whole thing.=0D
Still Learning=0D
Dallas
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1g2FsKorWRL2CtCFcYCGwMFQmBkAvYNyqSTuiAWm9ECiRKfSng87pQi5SxCCBKYWMpd0CBEBACH5
BAVkAAgALAAAAAAUAA8AAAQSEMlJq7046827/2AojmRpnmgEADs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Jones" <kevin-jones(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Partly built dragonfly |
About two or three months ago there was a fellow in Tennessee or nearby who
had a partly built Dragonfly for sale. Can anyone tell me who and where he is?
kj
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s) |
> My Mk3/912 has the standard two 5 Gal tank set up. While pondering the possibilities
of fuel starvation with the plumbing now installed it now looks like a
fuel selector valve is mandatory.
> Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL
Duane/Gang:
If I had the decision to make I would siamese the
two tanks at their lowest points. Run fuel line
from the bottom of each tank (using the rubber
bushings and push fittings) to a "T" fitting.
From the "T" fitting out the bottom of the
fuselage with a shut off valve near the end of the
line. Not only will this allow both tanks to seek
a common level, but you will also have a built in
sump/gascolators. As a matter of preflight, drain
the line into a clear glass container and you are
also draining your fuel system. You will also
have to pull each float bowl about once a month to
check for moisture and crud.
I have used a similar system on my Mark III with a
single tank. The sump and drain work well. Have
never had an engine failure when I checked the
sump and drained before the first flight of the
day or when fueling from a questionable source.
Sorry for the delay in responding. Have been out
of the loop for about a week.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mk3 Classic two tank selector valve(s) |
I've been doing that mornings
> when I get to the field. So far with rain, humidity, early morning sun,
> etc., I haven't found any water in the tanks yet. I'll keep looking.
Duncan
Duncan/Gang:
Don't give up looking for the water and sluge, it
will show sooner or later.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: One less Kolb |
I enjoy making steep climbouts, (40MPH at full
> throttle with 912), but maybe that's cutting it a bit close (comments
> John H?). Is a more airspeed and less angle called for?
> Peter V
Peter/Gents:
I can't tell you what to do or how to do it.
However, as a general rule, steep climbouts at 40
mph indicated are putting you in the "deadman's
zone" at lower altitudes. By the time you recover
from the initial shock of losing the engine, you
will be behind the power curve and not on top of
your forced landing. Another problem we get into
at low level in a steep climb out is we think the
airplane is flying as soon as we get it in a level
attitude, when in actuality we a mushing and
stalling, not flying. I know, I made that
mistake.
Things never happen when we expect them to and
usually problems mushroom when the engine gets
quiet, especially at low levels.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | MarkIII vs MarkIII X-tra |
Hello Kolbers,
I would like to read some comments from any of you about the advantages or disadvantages
that the X-TRA has or doesn't have over the Classic.I know the claims
that the factory has and have all the specs on both. However I have heard some
comments (wont' name names) that the X-tra is not all it's cracked up to be.
I like the flatter wider windshield, and the wider cabin at the nose. If any
care to comment I'm all ears. I know where there is a super deal on nearly completed
Mark III Classic. And are near a decision on the two models. Also besides
the obvious reasons. What about the 582 vs. the 912 and 912s?
Fire for effect!
Paul
N4958P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <peterv(at)etsmiami.com> |
| Subject: | Everglades City Pictures |
These pictures were taken from Kolbs and of Kolbs during a recent club
fly-out to Everglades City in Florida.
Photographer & Pilot in Mk. III:
http://lafa.com/Photos/2002%20Everglades%20City/DSC01016_1.JPG
Leaving Florida's East Coast:
http://lafa.com/Photos/2002%20Everglades%20City/DSC01028_1.JPG
Captain Bob in his "Oldie but Goodie" Kolb
http://lafa.com/Photos/2002%20Everglades%20City/DSC01037_1.JPG
Navigating by canal:
http://lafa.com/Photos/2002%20Everglades%20City/DSC01055_1.JPG
LAFA's newest Kolb addition
http://lafa.com/Photos/2002%20Everglades%20City/DSC01073_1.JPG
Planet Earth
http://lafa.com/Photos/2002%20Everglades%20City/DSC01102_1.JPG
Everglades City
http://lafa.com/Photos/2002%20Everglades%20City/DSC01100_1.JPG
Everglades City Tourists
http://lafa.com/Photos/2002%20Everglades%20City/DSC01110_1.JPG
X01 showing some of the groups planes by the runway
http://lafa.com/Photos/2002%20Everglades%20City/DSC01124.JPG
X01 on Short Final
http://lafa.com/Photos/2002%20Everglades%20City/DSC01114_1.JPG
Peter Volum
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Conversion Program |
> A while back, someone posted a great little program that converted
> units, SAE to metric, watts to hp, ect.
> Richard Swiderski
Hi Richard/Gents:
You can download the program "Convert" from my
index page:
http://home.sw.rr.com/jhauck/Convert/
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Dallas Shepherd ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Dallas Shepherd
Subject: One Less Kolb
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/cen23954@centurytel.net.12.07.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Duncan McBride ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Duncan McBride
Subject: Amateur Built
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/duncanmcbride@comcast.net.12.07.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Audrey Lewis <audreylewis(at)planters.net> |
| Subject: | Peter Volum Photos |
Thanks for showing the photos of south Florida. Was the canal in Northern Fla?
There is one running east and west but never finished, also one was started
to drain the Okefenokee but it too was stopped. How did you mount the camera
outside and what type remote did you use. Great pictures.
Audrey
FSII 503 150 hrs--50 years flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
> Which reminds me, my struts are gettin kinda loose...we use to talk about
> bushings here ....anyone do that on their struts?
>
> george Randolph
George/Gents:
Started using bushings in my lift struts back in
the old Firestar days. Still use them on my Mark
III. Only way to keep from elongating the holes
is secure the lift strut fittings to keep them
from vibrating on the bolts or pin that attach
them.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Rotax Service Bulletins |
you guys ever notice how many service bulletins
and AD's
> are published concerning the 912-914 series?
> Guess they got the 447 and 503's right, I never see anything about
> them......."course they're not real airplane engines, only pretend ones.
> Mike in WV
Mike/Gang:
Although disappointing at times, it is a blessing
to get those Service Bulletins from Rotax on our
912s. Back in the medival period of
ultralighting, we ruined engines, had forced
landings, then got a simple letter explaining what
we needed to do to prevent this from happening.
Problem was the letters were dated a year or so
prior to the time we the customers were getting
the correspondence.
I have only had one Service Bulletin on my 912S
that required some work and it was completed in an
afternoon. That was the update on the valve
spring washers. I had alread flown the 912S to
Mucho Lake, BC, the year before, and was headed
for Barrow, AK, when I broke the airplane. Would
have happily made the 2000 flight all the way with
the thinner washers, cause I didn't know any
better. Before we took off on the 2001 flight, I
completed the update.
If the Service Bulletins save one person from
getting killed, they are worth it. Especially if
it is me. :-)
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net> |
Pictures are at the Matronics photo share now.
Dallas
do no archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Metal Resourse ? |
> I generally would not consider aluminum as a great choice for an engine
> mount, because it tends to crack due to vibration. it you use it, pay
> exceptional attention to the surface finish, basically polish the whole
> thing, including the insides of the holes!
>
> topher
topher/Gents:
That is all Kolb has used except the Ultrastar
mount which was 4130.
I went through three sets of 1/4 alum angle engine
mounts on my 912 in 1135 hours. Brother Jim
designed the engine, radiator, and oil cooler
mounts for my 912/Mark III because there were none
in existence at the time. I primed them with
epoxy chromate and finished them up with several
good coats of Pontiac Red Aerothane. The four
engine mount bolts that went through the alum
angle started working early on. Did not realize
what was happening until I replaced the first set
of mounts. Vibration rubbed the paint and primer
off the alum angle in a short period of time.
Then, even though the four bolts were snuggly
safety wired, when the paint and primer went it
opened up a small gap which allowed the engine
case and angle to keep on working. From then on I
did not prime and paint the mounts, but kept them
neutral. However, I did clean them with
phosphoric acid and alodine them with gold
alodine. Neutral is also available. Alodine
treatment last a long time and protects the
aluminum from corrosion.
When it came time to build the mounts for the 912S
I got some 3/8 inch angle from John Russell. The
increased thickness of angle, John's idea for his
912S powered Sling Shot, have worked much better
than the 1/4 mounts. I checked mine closely this
afternoon before I flew. Was showing a slight
trace of black from the rear bolts where the
engine cases mate to the aluminum angle. Time to
cut the safety wire and retorque the bolts. I
have 391.1 hours on these mounts. They are
holding up much better on the 912S than the 1/4"
angles did with the 912.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank Fittings |
> OH, one important thing I forgot to mention is cut a slot about 3/8" long
> in the pick up end of the tube (the end inside the tank) in the direction
> of the length of the tube. This is in case some debris should cover the
> end of the pick up, it can still suck fuel in through the slot.
> jerb
jerb/Gang:
I use a finger strainer.
Last time I removed it, a couple years ago, it had
a good collection of FOD on it. But, it was doing
its job.
Scratching my head. I don't know where all that
crap came from.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: one less Kolb |
Dallas,
My heart goes out to you. You did a remarkable job in saving
yourself and your young passenger. The Mark III gave its all in protecting
you both.
Ed in JXN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: one less Kolb
>
> Pictures are at the Matronics photo share now.
> Dallas
> do no archive
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <fly3g(at)earthlink.net> |
Kolb Listers,
I had the chance to compile some prop/engine data
today and thought I would share it with the list.
This is kind of long so be forwarned. The "Engine and
Prop data" excel spreadsheet will be posted on the
file server which has plots and lists the data taken.
First a little backgound. Three of us fly Kolb
Firestar 2 / 503 DCDI / 2 66"Blade Warp prop setups
from our home base 2V2 in Longmont Colorado. We had
an opportunity recently to hitch all three planes up
to an accurate scale for some static thrust
measurements and the results were plotted in the
spreadsheet noted above. Note that 2V2 is at 5056 ft
so our engines put out about 12-15% less HP than those
of you at sea level. Each of the planes were pitched
slightly diffently and Mike's plane uses a standard
Warp drive blade vs Mark and I who use the "constant
speed profile". At WOT:
Mike 276lbs@6300rpm/8degrees ,
Mark 232lbs @ 6300rpm/11.5degrees,
Gregg 232lbs @6600rpm/9.3 degrees.
Qualitative inflight performance from racing of the
three aircraft are that Mark's is the fastest of the
three (cleanest airframe/fewer dings, strut fairings,
special paint) with speeds approaching 90mph. Gregg
and Mike are probably about 3-7mph slower at the top
end. In climb Gregg performs the best by maybe 50-100
fpm probably due to lightest airframe/pilot combo
weight.
The ringer in this testing was I had an opportunity to
hook up my hangar mates (RANS S-12 ) 3 blade 67"Hot
Prop on my airplane. The Hot Prop is a really good
looking prop with a slick finish and beautiful
machining and my hangar mate says there aren't too
many around. No one has flung any mud through the Hot
Prop yet so I am not sure how its pretty finish will
hold up but it does have brass insert leading edges.
It is stiff like the Warp (vs. say an IVO). It was
about $150 more than my Warp setup (prop and spacer
and bolts). Anyway we hooked it up with no changes to
my 503. It did 298lbs @ 6200rpm/6 degrees (20%
better). Temps stayed about the same. Mark and I
both flew it with the same impressions and it did have
a positive impact on speed 78/85 mph and climb
850/960fpm. Interestingly in level flight WOT the
engine would wind up to 6600rpm. The mass of the Hot
Prop was within a pound of the Warp. Qualitatively
the noise level was significantly reduced according to
our group of observers on the ground. I fly with an
ANR headset so I wasn't sure how much diffent in the
air although the 3 blade configuration gives a
different sound than the 2 blade. Apparant vibration
was reduced as well (2balde vs 3 blade effect?). Mark
and I both could feel the additional performance in
takeoff acceleration. My hangar mate also has a 3
blade Warp I hope to try in the near future.
So if anyone is doing the prop decision thing I would
make a Hot Prop a consideration. If I was buying a
new prop I would have bought one for the noise
reduction alone since my Kolb already has great
performance. Although in my case I typically cruise
at 5500rpm @ 62mph and with the Hot Prop I was getting
5000rpm @ 62mph, not enough data to know if that
affected fuel flow significantly. Unfortunately my
hangar mate wants to bolt up to the Hot Prop again so
my days are numbered.... Don't get me wrong my WARP
has been a good tough prop and I have no problems with
it but the diffenece made quite an impression (Anyone
on the list want to buy a slightly used Warp?).
I will close this long letter noting that I was really
suprised that there would be that much diffence in
prop performance both thrust and sound. In addition I
am in no way associated, compensated or employed by
WARP, Hot Prop or Rotax, just one flyer relating my
experiences and crude measurements and impressions,
your results and mileage may vary....
Fly safe,
Gregg Waligroski
Kolb FS2/503
Boulder, Colorado
http://kolbultralight.homestead.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: One less Kolb |
>you
>will be behind the power curve and not on top of
>your forced landing. .... when in actuality we a mushing and
>stalling, not flying. I know, I made that
>mistake.
My second scariest moment in a Kolb was at sun and fun back in the
eighties. I was flying an Ultrastar and did a steep climb out. Got behind
the old power curve and there I was nose pointed up really high and me not
going anywhere. I did not see much chance of lowering the nose as there
were trees coming up to greet me. I managed to duck between the trees and
to slowly ( very slowly) climb out and finally go on the right side of the
power curve. It took me a while to figure out what went wrong. As it was
happening I was to busy kissing my ass good bye to do anything other than
keep it flying and not fall down. We learn from these little incidents.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Partly built dragonfly |
>
> About two or three months ago there was a fellow in Tennessee or
> nearby who had a partly built Dragonfly for sale. Can anyone tell me who
> and where he is?
>kj
Ultralight or composite home built? I have a composite sitting in my
back yard.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MarkIII vs MarkIII X-tra |
>
>Hello Kolbers,
>I would like to read some comments from any of you about the advantages or
>disadvantages that the X-TRA has or doesn't have over the Classic.I know
>the claims that the factory has and have all the specs on both. However I
>have heard some comments (wont' name names) that the X-tra is not all it's
>cracked up to be. I like the flatter wider windshield, and the wider cabin
>at the nose. If any care to comment I'm all ears. I know where there is a
>super deal on nearly completed Mark III Classic. And are near a decision
>on the two models. Also besides the obvious reasons. What about the 582
>vs. the 912 and 912s?
If it really is a super deal on a classic go for it. You won't be
disappointed. If you want you can re sculpt the classic nose and get a
wider flatter more artistically pleasing shape. Check photo share to see
what I was able to accomplish with an old classic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: one less Kolb |
Dallas, after seeing the photos of your MK3, it's unbelievable you and your
grandson walked away with minor injuries. Somebody sure was watching over you
two that day.
Fly Safe
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: one less Kolb |
Keep the faith Dallas. From what I saw in your pictures you may still
have a rebuildable aircraft. A bit of welding on the front section ,
perhaps a new wing spar and assorted small tubing should get you back in
the air within a year. I dare say mine was in a worse condition but it is
flying now. Take your time and tear off all the fabric you need to and
check for damages. It may surprise you how little it really was considering
the circumstances.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Kolb for sale on ebay |
FYI...
Item number: 1873606169
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 12/7/02 6:52:00 PM Eastern Standard Time, jhauck(at)sw.rr.com
writes:
> >Which reminds me, my struts are gettin kinda loose...we use to talk about
> >bushings here ....anyone do that on their struts?
> >
> >george Randolph
>
> George/Gents:
>
> Started using bushings in my lift struts back in
> the old Firestar days. Still use them on my Mark
> III. Only way to keep from elongating the holes
> is secure the lift strut fittings to keep them
> from vibrating on the bolts or pin that attach
> them.
>
> john h
>
> John/folks
I understand the need to keep the fit naught naught for hole roundness, but
don't have a clue where to get the right sized bushings for such a
caper.....anyone?...oh, and how about hardness....too brittle and they
crack?...too soft and they squash? Seems like RC/60 or so would be about
right. Do they exist for the diameters that we use?
Totally dumb in the bushing world.
George Randolph
Firestar driver from Akron, O
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
Ye Olde Aircrafte Spruce Catalogue, page 64,
Bushing stock 1015/1020 steel.
Weld it in place, and then drill/ream to fit.
Sizes from 1/4" OD - /1/8" ID
up to 3/4" OD - 5/8" ID
All of it in .065 wall thickness
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>I understand the need to keep the fit naught naught for hole roundness, but
>don't have a clue where to get the right sized bushings for such a
>caper.....anyone?...oh, and how about hardness....too brittle and they
>crack?...too soft and they squash? Seems like RC/60 or so would be about
>right. Do they exist for the diameters that we use?
>
>Totally dumb in the bushing world.
>George Randolph
>Firestar driver from Akron, O
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Some Insight from Dallas |
when u feel up to it, dallas, sure would be interesting to hear ur thgts
about ur recent mishap, esp re: how a brs chute may have affected the
outcome; what engine u had: ur location; & any other details to forewarn the
rest of us. tnx. jtb in btr.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net> |
Here is an email I just sent. I would like your comments. I will post
their reply later.
Thanks
Clay Stuart
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Kolb
> Jim and Dondi,
>
> Nearing time to cover my Mark IIIXtra Kolb (SN#21-1st heavy edition). I
saw
> you at the Kolb fly-in in Sept. I had the powder coating (aero-yellow)
done
> by Kolb on all the non-aluminum parts such as the cage and on the aluminum
> fuselage tube.
>
> I have been reading the Kolb archives and I believe that I should put Tube
> Seal inside all the powder coated steel tubing. I plan to cover all the
SS
> rivets with epoxy chromate. What do you recommend for the aluminum
> framework before I cover? The tail feathers and wings have been completed
> for over a year, but they don't seem to have any corrosion present. They
> are dusty with a few dabs of bird guano. At Kolb you mentioned a wash to
> reactive the aluminum protection. I plan to keep my plane hangered at all
> times, and I don't especially want to paint the aluminum framework before
> covering. What do you think?
>
> If I order everything at once, do I save in hazardous shipping charges?
Is
> there a cost savings for buying everything in the initial order?
>
> Thanks,
> Clay Stuart
> Danville KY
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
Seems like RC/60 or so would be about
> right. Do they exist for the diameters that we use?
>
> Totally dumb in the bushing world.
> George Randolph
George/Gents:
Just ask the man at the counter for bushing
stock. Comes in lengths just like aircraft
tubing.
Check Aircraft Spruce Catalog, a good reference
book for aircraft material. I am sure they have
bushing stock listed.
IIRC Firestar uses 1/4 inch bolts/clevis pins for
lift struts. Order the bushing stock with 1/4
ID. OD will probably be 3/8 inch. Drill out the
lift strut fitting to accept the bushing. Weld it
in. Cut to fit the length to fit between the two
tangs on the fuselage and on the other end between
the lift strut tangs. Bolt them up with the
proper length bolt, a couple washers and a nyloc
nut. They won't wear and dance around like they
used to.
RC60 is pretty hard. I have my gear legs heat
treated to RC48.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
> Here is an email I just sent. I would like your comments. I will post
> their reply later.
>
> Thanks
> Clay Stuart
Clay/Gents:
Jim and Dondi monitor the Kolb List.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Some Insight from Dallas |
> when u feel up to it, dallas, sure would be interesting to hear ur thgts
> about ur recent mishap, esp re: how a brs chute may have affected the
> outcome; what engine u had: ur location; & any other details to forewarn the
> rest of us. tnx. jtb in btr.
jtb in btr/Gents:
IIRC Dallas has already done that. Check the
archives and you can pull up his recent msg where
he describes the engine failure to his Jabiru
caused by water in the fuel. He also tells about
getting behind really quick when the engine
started losing power at low altitude while trying
to climb out over to some trees in Arkansas where
his private grass strip is located.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>
> >I understand the need to keep the fit naught naught for hole roundness, but
> >don't have a clue where to get the right sized bushings for such a
> >caper.....anyone?...oh, and how about hardness....too brittle and they
> >crack?...too soft and they squash? Seems like RC/60 or so would be about
> >right. Do they exist for the diameters that we use?
> >
You usually want bushings a bit softer than the pins so they wear and
not the pins.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Key" <dhkey(at)msn.com> |
I never check the gas before I fly in my MarkIII ultralight. I do for a GA
plane because it has the valves that I can easily check. I do let it run for
7 minutes or so before I take off. I remember having a jet ski that had a
see through water filter on the fuel line. 1) What are the chances the warm
up would show the problem? 2) How can I easily address the safty concern of
water in the gas tank?
Dave
Dallas
Mark III Rotax 582
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Water Filter |
>
>I never check the gas before I fly in my MarkIII ultralight. I do for a GA
>plane because it has the valves that I can easily check. I do let it run for
>7 minutes or so before I take off. I remember having a jet ski that had a
>see through water filter on the fuel line. 1) What are the chances the warm
>up would show the problem? 2) How can I easily address the safty concern of
>water in the gas tank?
>Dave
>Dallas
>Mark III Rotax 582
>
Dave,
Here is how I try to minimize water in the fuel.
I remove FireFly tank in the Spring and check for water in the bottom of the tank.
Usually I find about a dimes volume of water. To prevent build up of water
in the tank, I usually top of the tank after every return to the hangar.
Also, I stopped premixing my gas in the plastic transfer gas cans at the filling
station. If you put oil in an empty plastic gas can and then fill it with gas,
one cannot see through the gas to the bottom to see if the filling station
sold you some water and/or crud and gas. If I notice some water in the bottom
of the transfer can, I pour the gas over into a dry can through a Mister Funnel.
I have not ever found water in the carburetor float bowl, but once in a while I
check it. I have on occasion bought what I considered to be large amounts of
water. I noticed this happens when filling the can at the station, the filler
hose starts to jump a little. I suspect the source tank is getting low and
the pump is sucking fumes, gas, and water.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "toddatlucile" <toddatlucile(at)alltel.net> |
This weekend I was offered to check out in one on them Challenger 'airplanes'.
I turned them down because I never did learn how to fly one of them airplanes
with the landing gear put on backwards and I didn't want to make a fool out of
myself and ground loop the fool thing.
John Todd
retired Agricultural Pilot
Firestar Serial No. 30
Blakely Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Water Filter |
Here is a tip from my motorcycle riding. When you gas up anything! from a
filling station, lift the nozzle from the pump and before putting the nozzle
into the can,filler neck, what ever, point it down towards the ground and
drain any fuel/water/garbage. Then pump your fuel. You will not believe what
collects in those pump nozzles while sitting in an upright position.
my 2 cents
pp..
-- Original Message -----
From: "Jack & Louise Hart" <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Water Filter
>
> >
> >I never check the gas before I fly in my MarkIII ultralight. I do for a
GA
> >plane because it has the valves that I can easily check. I do let it run
for
> >7 minutes or so before I take off. I remember having a jet ski that had a
> >see through water filter on the fuel line. 1) What are the chances the
warm
> >up would show the problem? 2) How can I easily address the safty concern
of
> >water in the gas tank?
> >Dave
> >Dallas
> >Mark III Rotax 582
> >
> Dave,
>
> Here is how I try to minimize water in the fuel.
>
> I remove FireFly tank in the Spring and check for water in the bottom of
the tank. Usually I find about a dimes volume of water. To prevent build
up of water in the tank, I usually top of the tank after every return to the
hangar.
>
> Also, I stopped premixing my gas in the plastic transfer gas cans at the
filling station. If you put oil in an empty plastic gas can and then fill
it with gas, one cannot see through the gas to the bottom to see if the
filling station sold you some water and/or crud and gas. If I notice some
water in the bottom of the transfer can, I pour the gas over into a dry can
through a Mister Funnel.
>
> I have not ever found water in the carburetor float bowl, but once in a
while I check it. I have on occasion bought what I considered to be large
amounts of water. I noticed this happens when filling the can at the
station, the filler hose starts to jump a little. I suspect the source tank
is getting low and the pump is sucking fumes, gas, and water.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Guy Swenson" <guys(at)rrt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Water Filter |
>I have not ever found water in the carburetor float bowl, but once
>in a while I check it. I have on occasion bought what I considered
>to be large amounts of water. I noticed this happens when filling
>the can at the station, the filler hose starts to jump a little. I
>suspect the source tank is getting low and the pump is sucking
>fumes, gas, and water.
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Jackson, MO
>
>
>Jack & Louise Hart
>jbhart(at)ldd.net
Jack & Listers
Don't fill your cans or your cars at your local gas station during or
just after a transport has just dumped a load into the tanks. That
would be your best chance to get water and crud in your tanks.
Guy S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Untitled Document |
Added a web page to show the home made gascolator, this is the link here.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg13.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Untitled Document |
>Added a web page to show the home made gascolator, this is the link here.
>
> http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg13.html
Great cook book!
It would seem to me that -- after you finished building it -- if you poured
in just slightly less than 3/8" inch worth of epoxy and let it harden,
you'd get rid of 99.9% of the water.
-- Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 12/8/02 10:29:29 PM Eastern Standard Time,
duesouth(at)govital.net writes:
> >I understand the need to keep the fit naught naught for hole roundness, but
> >>don't have a clue where to get the right sized bushings for such a
> >>caper.....anyone?...oh, and how about hardness....too brittle and they
> >>crack?...too soft and they squash? Seems like RC/60 or so would be about
> >>right. Do they exist for the diameters that we use?
> >>
>
>
> You usually want bushings a bit softer than the pins so they wear and
> not the pins.
>
That sounds good fer sure.
George Randolph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Water Filter |
In a message dated 12/9/02 9:36:06 AM Eastern Standard Time, dhkey(at)msn.com
writes:
> How can I easily address the safety concern of
> water in the gas tank?
> Dave
>
Dave,
When I was using the clear plastic tanks that came with the kit I would use a
flashlight and look through the filler. It was pretty easy to see beads of
water on the bottom and occasionally some small pieces of trash. I used a
piece of 5/16 tubing with some hose connected to siphon the bottom of the
tanks clean any time water or trash was seen. I have recently fabricated and
installed a 20 gallon fuel tank and a pint sized sump tank with a drain to
drain any water that collects in it.
Steven Green
N58SG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
If the bushings are welded in, then if they wear more than the mating
pins, it's a mess cutting out the worn bushings. Better change the worn
pins--they are more readily exchanged. Just an idea...
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim O'Day" <oday(at)cableone.net> |
There is a high allowable percentage of water in all motor fuel (pump
gasoline) allowed by specification. This water will settle out in static
storage. At my business (petroleum equipment and services), we pump water
out of underground storage tanks every day. It is always present in these
tanks, and will get into yours as well. I live in ND and unless you use
gasoline with ethanol, you add alcohol to your gas tank every fill to
prevent the gas line from freezing during the winter months. Avgas is much
dryer plus it usually dispensed with water absorbing filters.
If you cannot get a sump drain in your tank, another suggestion would be to
try a water absorbing cartridge designed for fuel tanks. It is a tube
shaped plastic cage, 3/4" dia X 4 to 5" long that is packed with the stuff
that absorbs water but not gasoline inside a nylon sack. The cage keeps the
sack in a cylinder shape so it can be removed from a narrow tank opening.
It is tethered to a cord so you can retrieve it, and it lays on the bottom
of the tank. It will keep the tank dry. If any of you have seen a paper
absorbent baby diaper, you will know what I mean, same concept.
We sell some for large tanks 1000+ gallons but do not stock any for smaller
tanks. We had a couple of samples (size I described) that guys used in
their boat tanks.
I will get a web site URL to the vendor and post it here. We used to buy
them from this place http://www.cim-tek.com/products.asp. I have seen the
small ones sold at truck stops too. I am not sure where we get them today,
but will find out.
Jim O'Day
Fargo, ND
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jack & Louise
Hart
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Water Filter
>
>I never check the gas before I fly in my MarkIII ultralight. I do for a GA
>plane because it has the valves that I can easily check. I do let it run
for
>7 minutes or so before I take off. I remember having a jet ski that had a
>see through water filter on the fuel line. 1) What are the chances the warm
>up would show the problem? 2) How can I easily address the safty concern of
>water in the gas tank?
>Dave
>Dallas
>Mark III Rotax 582
>
Dave,
Here is how I try to minimize water in the fuel.
I remove FireFly tank in the Spring and check for water in the bottom of the
tank. Usually I find about a dimes volume of water. To prevent build up of
water in the tank, I usually top of the tank after every return to the
hangar.
Also, I stopped premixing my gas in the plastic transfer gas cans at the
filling station. If you put oil in an empty plastic gas can and then fill
it with gas, one cannot see through the gas to the bottom to see if the
filling station sold you some water and/or crud and gas. If I notice some
water in the bottom of the transfer can, I pour the gas over into a dry can
through a Mister Funnel.
I have not ever found water in the carburetor float bowl, but once in a
while I check it. I have on occasion bought what I considered to be large
amounts of water. I noticed this happens when filling the can at the
station, the filler hose starts to jump a little. I suspect the source tank
is getting low and the pump is sucking fumes, gas, and water.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Problems I can't Seem to Whip |
I suspect that your position of the static tube is causing the high
reading, it is in a low presure area, makes the pitot ram air falsely
higher than it really is.
Might give a look at how mine is set up, both the pitot and static air are
way out in front in clean air, speeds are right on the money.
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg7.htm
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ld Poops)
>
>Gentlemen,
>
> I'm having 2 problems that I just can't seem to get nailed down
>and need the help of the List.
>
> First problem: Airspeed reads 10 to 15 mph too high.
>Verified it with GPS and other aircraft. On my 3rd brand new
>instrument. Pitot line (1/4 " dia) sticks out the front about 6" per
>plans. Line is
> clear and about 18" long. Can't imagine getting 3 bad ASI's in a row.
> Static line goes to an external port (right side) just aft of
>the bend in the fuselage, just above the bottom of the fuselage. It
>is clean. Had the static line in several other places; in the nose
>bowl, below the
> seat, down the tail boom- all with little or no difference in the
>high reading.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Problems I can't Seem to Whip |
In a message dated 12/9/02 9:33:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ken-foi(at)attbi.com writes:
> ?
>
>
> Second problem, more serious, got EIS RPM indication drift. I
> have a 503 and flying along at or near cruise RPM and never at idle,
> EIS RPM indication is steady. Intermittently, it will go to 0.
> Stays there for a while, sometimes a long time, sometimes short.
> Then, magically goes back to proper reading.
>
If you have the older style EIS [with 2 plugs in the back], you need to add a
10 k ohm 1/2 watt resistor in series with your tach lead to the EIS.
My EIS works great off the gray tach lead, so don't know about that. Maybe
try switching to another yellow lead for your tach input.
Lighting coils seldom go bad; check to make sure your grounds are not
intermittent.
Shack
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
At risk of starting a fire storm, I have to agree. I think I'd want the
pins to be softer, (slightly) since they WOULD be much easier to change
than the bushings. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob n" <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: bushings
>
> If the bushings are welded in, then if they wear more than the mating
> pins, it's a mess cutting out the worn bushings. Better change the worn
> pins--they are more readily exchanged. Just an idea...
>
> Bob N.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leonard S.Voelker" <lenvoelker(at)ccis.com> |
| Subject: | Mark III Classic vs Xtra |
Hi, Paul Petty and Kolbers,
I started building the Classic but switched to the Xtra when I ordered the fuselage
kit. I also had to order the bigger horizontal stabilizer kit (which turned
into a shipping fiasco). I will also have to drop the horizontal stabilizer's
forward attach brackets from near the top of the fuselage tube to a point about
half way down. Man do I hate to squeeze those big stainless steel pop rivets.
The fuselage kit that I got was #16, so I'm building one of the twenty or
so early versions of the Xtra. The early version has two control sticks and a
big center console with a little tiny instrument panel up close and personal
instead of way down by your ankles. This arrangement is quite heavy so New Kolb
redesigned it with a single control stick between the pilot and passenger and
perhaps have eliminated much of the center console to save weight. I can't tell
for sure from their pictures exactly what the cockpit is like now. The main
problem that I have had is the lack of comprehensive fuselage cage build up
instructions for the early Xtra. I would guess that New Kolb has rectified that
now with the current Xtra version but I still haven't received much info. for
the early version. On occasion New Kolb did respond via E-mail with photographs
of construction details when queried. New Kolb sez that they haven't drawn
up the appropriate figures for me yet but may get a round tu-it soon. With only
twenty customers or so building this version, I'm not holding my breath.
I had also ordered the 19 gal fuel tank but New Kolb recently recalled it and I'm
now installing the standard two five-gal. tanks using the old Classic instructions.
New Kolb sez that someone in Wyoming has installed four of these tanks
in his Mark III to get the extended range desired. Range suddenly becomes important
here out West when so much of the terrain is desert and mountains, there
are fewer airports and sudden strong headwinds can pop up at any time.
New Kolb advised that it would probably be better to put an 80 hp Rotax 912 engine
on my aircraft rather than the Rotax 582 because of the additional airframe
weight (they sure do push those Rotax engines). I had ordered the 582 mounts
to be welded onto my airframe so I will probably have to change them, too. I
can't afford the Rotax 912 and so I am looking for a lower cost equivalent. New
Kolb didn't like the Verner 1400 and I'm not sure that they even support the
Jabiru any more. I think that the issue with the Jabiru was more related to it
having a direct drive propeller (with less than sterling climb performance)
rather than being unreliable.
I think that my engine requirements should include a 4-stroke, bed-mounted engine
with a PSRU. The installation should not weigh much more than the Rotax 912
and should use auto gas instead of 100LL. As a first time builder with little
power plant smarts I would have liked a fully developed firewall forward engine
installation kit for the Mark III, which I think New Kolb only provides now
for the Rotax 582 and 912. With guidance from the Kolb List the two best alternatives
so far seem to be the VW conversion kit offered by Great Plains and a
BMW conversion. The BMW is a great engine designed with a whopping 75% duty cycle
and is famous around motor cycle racing circles for its high rpm durability.
The BMW is especially popular in England, the rest of Europe and South Africa
in individual light aircraft conversions. It is also cheaper and lighter
in weight than the VW. However, Great Plains has done considerable formal research
and testing of VW conversions for several aircraft but have not looked into
Kolb aircraft applications yet. Their Web site indicates, though, that they
have a redrive configuration that should work well and should be able to be bed-mounted
(most VW conversions are set up for firewall mounting). Oddly though,
while this configuration only has a 7.3:1 instead of 8:1compression ratio,
it can be operated at higher rpms than other VW conversions at Great Plains.
On take off and climb it can produce a whopping 100 hp before going to continuous
80 hp for cruise. Auto gas is preferred and, in fact, 100LL is not recommended.
The complete full up weight including the starter and alternator (and battery?)
but minus the prop, engine mount and exhaust stack for this engine installation
is listed as 191 pounds. This is about 20 pounds more than for the Rotax
912 but tolerable.
The BMW expert on the Kolb list appears to be Hans van Alphen and the VW expert
seems to be Richard Neilsen. Their knowledge and experience on the subject is
certainly impressive.
While New Kolb advertizes max. cruise speeds of 85 mph or more for the Mark III
Xtra most Kolbers seem to prefer slower flight. The Mark III was never intended
to be a great cross country speed machine but John Hauck has been everywhere
with his Classic, even twice to Alaska. John, a main staple on the list, is
without doubt THE leading authority on Kolbs and probably knows more about them
than even New Kolb itself. Me, I'm just a newby and am a long ways from flying
my aircraft yet.
Good luck with whatever you choose.
Len Voelker
Mark III Xtra/?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Leonard S.Voelker" <lenvoelker(at)ccis.com> |
Hi, Mark Richardson and Kolbers,
In reviewing old Digests it seems that I totally missed responding to your intriguing
post on Nov. 25. For that I most humbly apologize. No excuse but I'm trying
to make up for it now. You had described a two-second flutter incident seemingly
triggered by encountering wake turbulence from an aircraft ahead and had
asked whether free-play in the lift strut fittings had played a role. That's
a very good question but difficult to answer. Anyway, here goes.
The short answer is "possibly", but I think that it would have taken a really big
air "bump" to get things going. Here's my logic. During flight, lift struts
are normally loaded in really big tension with the whole airplane hanging on
them. The wing root is pinned to the fuselage as well as midspan at the wing strut
fitting. Under these normal conditions the pins are all wonderfully preloaded
and the dynamic situation is predictably linear. There are no free-play effects
and the configuration remains aeroelastically stable. However, I can imagine
that if you encountered a gust that was big enough to, for an instant, simultaneously
unload the fittings (zero g's) as well as "twang" the wing just
right, the wing's normal first bending vibration mode might, just for an instant,
change to a different one effectively pinned only at the wing root. This "new"
mode could couple with the aileron rotation mode at a much lower airspeed
to produce flutter. However, the oscillation amplitudes could only be sustainable
if the dynamic overshoot effects were so big as to unload the wing strut
fittings during part of each cycle of oscillation. Repeatedly getting all of these
initial conditions to occur just right seems highly improbable to me. I would
venture a guess that even if you attempted get it going again by every trick
imaginable you couldn't do it. Probably wouldn't want to, either. Anyway,
your recovery procedure was very effective and exactly right. If by bad luck such
oscillations should ever happen to you again, be comforted by the knowledge
that you know how to stop them before something breaks. As you found out, instant
and proper recovery action is what counts. But don't get too cocky (highly
unlikely, I'm sure). If this had been a case of truly linear classical flutter,
the oscillation amplitudes could have built up to catastrophic proportions
in only a second or so from onset with little chance for recovery by anybody
including steely eyed test pilots with ice water in their veins. Also note that
the above dialog is all purely conjecture since dynamically non-linear effects
on flutter are really not well understood by anybody. So much for possible
wing strut fitting free-play effects on flutter.
What really intrigued me was your mention of a friend who has a plans-built Kitfox
IV with an extreme case of elevator flutter. Now us flutter weenies just
love "extreme" cases (we're a sadistic lot, don't you know). Even so, I would
need a lot more information before I could begin to provide any credible recommendations.
What does the flutter mode look like? Are the elevators moving symmetrically
or antisymmetrically and at what frequency (fast or slow)? What mode
are they coupling with? Is it horizontal stabilizer vertical bending, aft fuselage
torsion or aft fuselage vertical bending? What are the structural details
of the whole empennage and aft fuselage, especially those that may differ
from kit Kitfoxes? Have any kit Kitfoxes (how redundant) had similar occurrences?
At what minimum airspeed does this elevator flutter occur and what triggers
it?
Since there are so many questions, perhaps you could put me in touch with your
friend directly. E-mail is probably the best way but my phone number is (760)
373-3949, just in case he doesn't have a computer.
This reminds me of a story about elevator flutter. Although it didn't happen to
a Kolb aircraft it could have, and so there may be some valuable insight here.
Way back thirty years ago or so, Piper Aircraft had successfully developed a small
twin which was selling like hotcakes. At customer requests a few of these
were modified to include, among other things, an aft fuselage baggage door and
re-routing the empennage flight control cables higher over the expanded baggage
compartment. All of a sudden these modified aircraft were crashing right and
left and Piper was losing customers faster than they could find new ones. In
total desperation to find out why, they secretly came to NASA Dryden Flight Research
Center for answers. Since NASA didn't know what was happening either they
simply outfitted one of these modified aircraft with high-speed movie cameras
all over the place and flew it with a very brave NASA test pilot. All of a
sudden the airplane began to shake violently. The pilot instantly pulled the
throttle and gingerly pitched the aircraft up. The oscillations stopped after
four or five seconds and the pilot was able to return the aircraft to base for
a successful landing. Post flight inspection showed that the horizontal tail
was severely twisted and bent and just barely hanging on. The damage was so severe
that the tail was not repairable and had to be replaced. Review of the movies
showed some of the best airborne photography ever obtained of actual horizontal
tail flutter on a real airplane.
The all-moving horizontal tail's first vertical bending mode was coupling with
aft fuselage first vertical bending. After much study it was deduced that the
modification which caused the problem on the previously flutter-free tail was
the baggage door. Re-routing the control cables had nothing to do with the problem.
Cutting a big hole in the side of the fuselage for this door had seriously
reduced the fuselage's vertical bending stiffness in spite of doublers around
the hole which had been added for more than sufficient strength. As I recall
from reports (this all happened before I got to Dryden), the cure was to add
a single counter balance weight to the stabilizer inside the aft fuselage. Anyway,
Piper was greatly relieved and went on to sell many more of these aircraft
without further incident. The test pilot, with thousands of flight hours in
all kinds of aircraft, told me much later that these flight tests in this relatively
simple aircraft were probably the closest he had ever come to being killed.
The lesson here for Kolb's is to make sure that you don't cut big holes in that
aft fuselage tube or do anything else to significantly reduce its bending or
torsion stiffness. Little dings and dents probably don't matter much unless a
fatigue crack develops but, obviously, big cave-ins could cause a serious problem.
Fly safe and flutter free.
Len Voelker
Mark III Xtra/?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
Len,
This opinion is worth what you are paying for it.
If reliability and range are your biggest concerns, but the cost of a new 912 is
a problem. I think you should use the time period while you build the airframe
to locate a good used 912.
So many folks are converting over to 100hp 912s that there should be a good many
used 80hps available. Well known Rotax shops like Lockwood, CPS, Greensky,
etc, should have sound used engines setting on their shelves. The Kolb list
and other internet sources should be of great value in locating an engine.
I would think if you shop hard that you will turn up a good deal with all this
time on your side.
80hp is way more than enough for a Mk-3.
In fact the Mk-3 airframe was originally conceived to handle the 65hp 582 because
so many folks were putting 582s on Mk-2s against TOKs recomendations.
I am surprised that Kolb is not concerned about the 100hp engines.
I don't think a better engine exists for this aircraft than the 912.
I myself may someday update to one, when the money is in my pocket.
The 912 is the best way to avoid being a test pilot.
Denny Rowe
MK-3 almost finished
690L-70
Gull wing doors and custom rear enclosure.
Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>If the bushings are welded in, then if they wear more than the mating
>pins, it's a mess cutting out the worn bushings. Better change the worn
>pins--they are more readily exchanged. Just an idea...
Most bushings I have installed were pressed in. Welding does make
replacing a lot harder to do. Perhaps drilling the holes a bit small and
then heating the fitting you can sweat the bushing in. A bit of warmth and
a hammer will make removal easier next time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>If you can fly a tail dragger ag plane, for sure you should be able to
>handle a tri-gear Challenger.
but why would you want to??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Untitled Document |
> Great cook book!
>
> It would seem to me that -- after you finished building it -- if you poured
> in just slightly less than 3/8" inch worth of epoxy and let it harden,
> you'd get rid of 99.9% of the water.
>
> -- Robert
Hi Robert/Gents:
I'm getting older, slower, and dumber.
Please explain the above. I understand the msg
from Richard Pike that you are referencing, but
not the epoxy getting rid of the water.
Thanks,
john h
PS: Does everybody else understand the above, or
is it just me.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
> If the bushings are welded in, then if they wear more than the mating
> pins, it's a mess cutting out the worn bushings. Better change the worn
> pins--they are more readily exchanged. Just an idea...
>
> Bob N.
Bob N/Gents:
You are absolutely right.
However, if you attach the lift struts with bolts
and snug them up, there will be no wear of bolt or
bushing.
Clevis pins in bushings will wear, but wear will
be insignificant on a quarter or 5/15 pin. I have
bushings on the leading edge of the horizontal
stabilizer attachments on my MK III. Use 3/16
bolts. What usually happens is the cad plating is
removed rather soon, but the actual wear on the
bolt is negligible. Since I got myself a 12.95
set of calipers, I will measure the wear of the
bolts next time I pull them out and compare with
new bolts.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Untitled Document |
John,
I think they are using epoxy to fill in the low spot surrounding the drain
hole in the bottom of the homemade gasculator. Thus making sure that water
doesn't collect that cant be drained out.
If this is the case, I understand perfectly, if not, I'm with you. grin.
Denny Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Untitled Document
>
>
> > Great cook book!
> >
> > It would seem to me that -- after you finished building it -- if you
poured
> > in just slightly less than 3/8" inch worth of epoxy and let it harden,
> > you'd get rid of 99.9% of the water.
> >
> > -- Robert
>
> Hi Robert/Gents:
>
> I'm getting older, slower, and dumber.
>
> Please explain the above. I understand the msg
> from Richard Pike that you are referencing, but
> not the epoxy getting rid of the water.
>
> Thanks,
>
> john h
>
> PS: Does everybody else understand the above, or
> is it just me.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Untitled Document |
Right you are, Denny. That's what I meant.
If you have a mono-spaced font like Courier, the following is a "ASCII
drawing":
----------------------------
___ --> __________
T gas T
| |
|'''''''''''''''|
| water |
| |
| ( ) |...... water
| | | |...... won't drain
| | | |...... out below
\ | | /...... this
\ | | /
~~~~~ ~~~~
| |______
L_________|
----------------------------
___ --> __________
T gas T
| |
|'''''''''''''''|
| water |
|......( ).....|...water almost completely out
|epoxy | | |
| | | |
\ | | /
\ | | /
~~~~~ ~~~~
| |______
L_________|
At 05:07 PM 12/10/2002, you wrote:
>
>John,
>I think they are using epoxy to fill in the low spot surrounding the drain
>hole in the bottom of the homemade gasculator. Thus making sure that water
>doesn't collect that cant be drained out.
>
>If this is the case, I understand perfectly, if not, I'm with you. grin.
>Denny Rowe
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Untitled Document
>
>
> >
> >
> > > Great cook book!
> > >
> > > It would seem to me that -- after you finished building it -- if you
>poured
> > > in just slightly less than 3/8" inch worth of epoxy and let it harden,
> > > you'd get rid of 99.9% of the water.
> > >
> > > -- Robert
> >
> > Hi Robert/Gents:
> >
> > I'm getting older, slower, and dumber.
> >
> > Please explain the above. I understand the msg
> > from Richard Pike that you are referencing, but
> > not the epoxy getting rid of the water.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > john h
> >
> > PS: Does everybody else understand the above, or
> > is it just me.
> >
> >
>
>
-- cell: 713-503-2949
-- fax : 425-928-3369
-- web pages: http://www.rlaird.net http://www.texas-flyer.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | alumimun coatings |
That's my invovement into preserving the aluminum on my FS.
Whether it had any real benefit, who knows?
============================================
just before putting on the fabric i took some epoxy primer
and loaded it up in a syringe... carefully injected some
onto every joint and rivet and let the capillary attraction
pull it into the joints. 2 or 3 ounces of primer did the
entire plane.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Shouldn't that be the other way 'round ?? Seems like you'd want to HEat the
drilled area, then FReeze the bushing to make it shrink a tad; then push it
into the undersized hole - quickly. You'd want to be pretty close on the
tolerances, too............it wouldn't shrink much. This is real common with
bearings..............and they can be a bear to get back out, too.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: bushings
>
> >
> >If the bushings are welded in, then if they wear more than the mating
> >pins, it's a mess cutting out the worn bushings. Better change the worn
> >pins--they are more readily exchanged. Just an idea...
>
>
> Most bushings I have installed were pressed in. Welding does make
> replacing a lot harder to do. Perhaps drilling the holes a bit small and
> then heating the fitting you can sweat the bushing in. A bit of warmth and
> a hammer will make removal easier next time.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Len,Kolbers
Thanks for the feedback on the Mark III vs X-TRA post.Just the type of information
I have been looking for. I spoke to Linda @ TNK today and asked her how many
folks were building X-tras. She said 38. She also stated that the new X-tras
were over 100 lbs lighter due to the frame changes and a much lighter nose cone.
So for now I have decided to go with the Mark III X / 912S. Looked around
on the net for 912 used units but prices found are higher that the kit prices
and don't include the accessories to mount the thing. This is a great source
of info and I thank you all. The total Kolb price for both kits and 912S is 24.722.00
(ouch)!
However if the aircraft does all that you and others say it will do it will fit
my plans perfect for the type flying I plan to use it for.
Heck if I wanna go fast I'll borrow Dad's RV-8 ZOOMMMM!!!! or if I want to cross
country in a warm cabin in winter the Cessna 150 is there. What more could a
guy ask for? I know..... got one of those too:-) Dang life is good.... BTW I
created a web site of some of our flying. www.harrisfield.0catch.com Can't wait
for Sun n Fun my first.One more thing, If any of you or your buddies are looking
for a Harley or Buell send em my way. Wife says at least one has to go if
I want an airplane!!!
Thanks Folks....
Paul
N4958P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Hmmmmm............................think I shoulda re-read your message a
little closer before I said the same thing as you did. Sorry, Woody.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: bushings
>
> Shouldn't that be the other way 'round ?? Seems like you'd want to HEat
the
> drilled area, then FReeze the bushing to make it shrink a tad; then push
it
> into the undersized hole - quickly. You'd want to be pretty close on the
> tolerances, too............it wouldn't shrink much. This is real common
with
> bearings..............and they can be a bear to get back out, too.
> Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
> www.gogittum.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: bushings
>
>
> >
> > >
> > >If the bushings are welded in, then if they wear more than the mating
> > >pins, it's a mess cutting out the worn bushings. Better change the worn
> > >pins--they are more readily exchanged. Just an idea...
> >
> >
> > Most bushings I have installed were pressed in. Welding does make
> > replacing a lot harder to do. Perhaps drilling the holes a bit small and
> > then heating the fitting you can sweat the bushing in. A bit of warmth
and
> > a hammer will make removal easier next time.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Armstrong" <cen33475(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Untitled Document |
PS: Does everybody else understand the above, or
is it just me.
John i think i get it so maybe its just you. by filling the bottom of the
filter cup with the epoxy then the top of the drain tube would be flush with
the bottom of the filter cup not sticking up above it so you would be able
to drain the cup completely not leave the amount below the top of the drain
tube.
topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>Hmmmmm............................think I shoulda re-read your message a
>little closer before I said the same thing as you did. Sorry, Woody.
No Sweat. I don't know for a fact but I would bet that the bushing
material John mentioned is softer than the AN pin that is used. Welding may
not be a good idea.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
Welding may
> not be a good idea.
Woody
Woody/Gang:
Why?
Have never had a problem with welded bushings.
Have them both ways. The bushings in the leading
edge of horz stab I made out of 1/4 OD (3/16 ID)
4130. Those I drilled shy and taped in. Working
great.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
Those I drilled shy and taped in.
Hi Ya'll:
I think the above should have been spelled
"tapped".
Didn't want you all thinking I taped the bushings
in place. :-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Sandy Hegyi ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Sandy Hegyi
Subject: 1986 Kolb Twinstar
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/sandyh@dccnet.com.12.10.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Gregg Waligroski ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Gregg Waligroski
Subject: Prop / Engine Performance Data
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/fly3g@yahoo.com.12.10.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Russell" <jr(at)rometool.com> |
| Subject: | 912S Complete engine package for Kolb |
I have a Kolb SlingShot that I have considered parting out in units.
Engine package would include-912S with 126 hours, Titan stainless exhaust,
4" custom prop
extention with 3 blade 72" warp prop and spinner, rotax oil cooler and
coolant radiater, all throttle and choke cables, EIS with harness with
remote switches, basically everything needed in an installation on a Kolb.
BRS top mount cannister, I will need to check on ratings, 2 years old.
Complete airframe, beautifully built and never damaged, aerothane finish,
tundra tired, matco brakes, 6" swivel tail wheel.
Every thing is in excellent shape and well maintained.
If by chance there is an interest you can contact me off list at
jr(at)rometool.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick & Martha Neilsen" <neilsenrm(at)cs.com> |
If want a fully developed engine package the 912 or 912S Rotax is by far the
best engine for the Kolb MKIII or extra.
If you need to save money the VW engine is a alternative and it is the least
expensive. The engine with all accessories will run you $5,000.00 to
$6,000.00. The main problem is there is no package that you just bolt on.
Great Plains has most of stuff for the VW and they have quality parts but
they don't sell a engine package for Kolb air planes. There are three items
that you will need to have custom made to put a VW on a Kolb, the engine
mount, cooling shrouds and a exhaust system. Everything else is off the
shelf you just have to pick the right parts. The VW engine for a Kolb is
basically a low RPM low compression dune buggy engine with a reduction
drive. There is a lot of talk about on this site about if you don't get a
Rotax you become the test pilot. To some point they are right but keep in
mind VWs have been flying in airplanes for a lot more years than Rotax has.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Harris
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: thanks to Len
Paul, I am going to catch a lot of heat for this post... but I can't stand
it.. GO WITH THE 912, you will never regret it,besides the OTHERS have not
been proven. Just bite the bullet and pay the price for an engine that has
a good record on the MK III.. The main man at KOLB in 95, when I bought my
MK III kit ( that would be Homer ) at sun and fun when I had just started my
kit,said the 912 was the best engine for the MK III. He also said to leave
the test pilot thing to folks that are test pilots, and enjoy what we have
proven to work. I don't know how much you know about Homer, but he puts
the grease right on the squeak, let's the chips fall where they may...
sorry BIG LAR just stating what I think...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Wanted, Three blade powerfin. |
Listers,
I will soon be ordering a three blade F model Powerfin prop of 68" diameter for
my Mk-3.
Being the tightwad that I am, I figured I would check with you folks first to see
if someone might have one for sale before I drop the $625 for a new one.
This would be a good time for someone to try one of those Kiev Hot Props. GRIN
I am very settled on the Powerfin due to its low weight, and its price as compaired
to a Warp and Hot prop. Also, the 2SI rep says this prop works great with
my engine. In addition fellow Kolber Luray Wector has the exact engine and
prop combo on his Slingshot and it Kicks.
Let me know,
Thanks
Denny Rowe
Mk-3 2SI 690L-70
Leechburg PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hmhumes" <hmhumes(at)attbi.com> |
Hello all.
Allow me to introduce myself. My name is Hugh and I've been lurking on this list
a while now. I'm looking for a local owner/builder that would be willing to
set up a meet. I'd prefer to see a Mark III or Xtra since that's what I'm going
to build. I live near Santa Monica airport but I'm willing to drive 100
miles or more if I need to. I'd really like to see one in person and take a flight
in one if possible. Also, if anyone can recommend a good flight school/
instructor in my area. There's so many to choose from I could use a little help.
Thanks in advance.
Hubert Humes
Future pilot
Future Kolb owner
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wanted, Three blade powerfin. |
Hey Tom, while you are pitchin props, how much fer a 2 blade Powerfin
...bout 63-65 inchs maybe gor a ULII02 Cayuna with belt drive ?...for a
firefly...Im shopping!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M. Domenic Perez" <perezmdomenic(at)plateautel.net> |
Parts that have been press fit together by heating the outer part and
cooling the inner one can, in fact, have a reverse procedure done to take
them apart if that becomes necessary. Use heat to warm the outer part (of
course the inner part will also be warmed at the same time). Then apply cold
to the inner part using a chunk of dry ice. This is effective, but probably
depends on the configuration being worked with. Handle dry ice with
considerable care. Applying it to something that's hot can be kind of
spectacular - lots of "boil and bubble". By the way, I have never done this
myself - I just witnessed a (non-aircraft) mechanic use the technique on an
assembly out of a farm tractor.
M. Domenic Perez
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kolb Mk-3 for sale, first post |
| From: | William George <wgeorge(at)mountainmeadowranch.com> |
This airplane was built in Hawaii and has always been stored in a
weatherproof enclosure.
Airplane information
Completed- 1993
Finish- Polytone Navajo Red
Total airframe time- 200 hours
Engine- Verner SVS 1400 twin cylinder four stroke 80 HP
Engine total time since new- 20 hours
Propeller- Powerfin "F" model wide chord 68 inch
Fuel- two standard 5 gal tanks, Facet pump, Gascolator
Propeller time since new- 20 hours
Cockpit- half doors, excellent for photography
Landing gear legs- Chromoly 4130 tube-in-tube
Tailwheel- full swivel Scott type on tempered 4130 strut
Tires- Airtrak
Brakes- New Matco dual cylinder, single puck with large capacity master
cyls.
Seats- Fiberglass buckets on aluminum pans
Radio- Microair 760
Panel- compass, airspeed, altimeter, rate of climb, Verner gauges
Lights- Aeroflash strobe
Emergency- Internal mount softpack BRS, ELT
Performance- Cimb 800-1000 fpm, cruise 65-70, fuel burn cruise less than 3
gph
Reason for sale- Underutilized due to local weather conditions and lack of
space
Trailer information
Construction- homebuilt, corrugated aluminum over a conduit frame
Chassis- single axle small wheels to facilitate lowering the rear for
load/unload
Floor- plywood
Accessories- battery and electric winch, internal lights
Price: $ 19,500
Airplane photos-
http://members.surfbest.net/wgeorge@surfbest.net/kolbphotos/
Verner dealer- http://www.centralfloridaflyers.com/
Verner on Gyro- http://www.rvk-architects.com/Ken/Gyro/index.htm
Bill George
Big Island of Hawaii
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
Listers,
Hughs question about getting a Kolb ride reminded me that I need to get a check
ride in a Mk-3 or Kolbra real soon. I was unable to get to TNKs open house this
year where I had hoped to hop a ride.
I am a low time private pilot and fly a Loehle Sport Parasol, used to fly Pterodactyls,
but my only Kolb ride was back in the late 80s in an old Twinstar, a
ride that sold me on Kolbs. That thing really performed on a 503.
Anyway, is there anyone within a daytrip of Pittsburgh PA who would be willing
to sale me a ride in their Kolb.
Denny Rowe
Mk-3 690L-70
N616DR final assembly stage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
Denny,
I would take your for a ride if we can find a nice day when I have time.
I'm at Lancaster PA, about 4 hours from Pitt. and fly a MK III with a 912, 3
years old with 265 hrs.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
rowedl(at)highstream.net
Subject: Kolb-List: Mk-3 ride
Listers,
Hughs question about getting a Kolb ride reminded me that I need to get a
check ride in a Mk-3 or Kolbra real soon. I was unable to get to TNKs open
house this year where I had hoped to hop a ride.
I am a low time private pilot and fly a Loehle Sport Parasol, used to fly
Pterodactyls, but my only Kolb ride was back in the late 80s in an old
Twinstar, a ride that sold me on Kolbs. That thing really performed on a
503.
Anyway, is there anyone within a daytrip of Pittsburgh PA who would be
willing to sale me a ride in their Kolb.
Denny Rowe
Mk-3 690L-70
N616DR final assembly stage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III Classic vs Xtra |
On 12/10/02, "Leonard S.Voelker" wrote:
<< I can't afford the Rotax 912 and so I am looking for a lower cost
equivalent. New Kolb didn't like the Verner 1400 and I'm not sure that they
even support the Jabiru any more. >>
Len, and other Kolb Friends -
Here's the reason why TNK told you they were not enchanted with the
Verner-1400 engine (this info comes from Ray Brown at TNK): The one unit
they had for evaluation was a used engine, from Canada. That engine
apparently came with problems - it would not start easily, and when it did,
it shook violently as only one cylinder would fire for the first several
revolutions. Would shake the whole airplane terribly until the other
cylinder caught.
At Sun'n'Fun 2000, they had the Verner on their demo Mark-3 for display.
During the show, it developed a leaky seal, and the USA Verner rep (Steve
Flynn, of Central Florida Flyers) happened to be on hand and helped them
replace the bad seal. But by that time, New Kolb was tired of fussing with
that finicky engine and scrapped further plans to evaluate and market the
engine as OEM for any of their 2-seater Kolbs.
Only two List members fly the Verner on their Mark-3s - myself and Bill
George. Admittedly, there is not a lot of actual experience (i.e., hours
flown) with the Verner on Kolbs compared to 912 experience. But don't let
that be the sole criteria for you to decide if the engine is "good" or "bad"
for your airplane
The Verner is a certified aircraft engine in Europe and Australia - just as
the 912 is. It's not as popular - Rotax has manufactured thousands of 912s,
Verner's numbers are merely in the hundreds. A thread on this topic was
discussed on the List a few months ago that concluded with the notion that
time will eventually tell whether the Verner turns out to be as reliable as
the 912, because there are presently so few flying in the USA.
Personally, I like the engine. It was a simple installation, with a
complete, bolt-on package delivered from the distributor. Seems to have
plenty of power. (Admittedly, I have not flown at gross yet, but I'm seeing
1000 fpm solo.) Like you, I could not afford a new 912, but I still wanted
the 4-stroke reliability for my Mark-3. The Verner was my choice. Check
Photoshare for some engine installation pictures that Big Lar posted 2
months ago.
If you check the archives, John Hauck posted a thoughtful comparison of the
Verner engine compared to his 912S. Basically, the Verner requires somewhat
more frequent maintenance (valve adjustments, plug changes, etc.) than the
912, and should really be considered a 70 hp engine for continuous
operation. But it's sufficiently powerful, runs smoothly, is 4-stroke, and
I could afford a new one ($7500, complete).
Try to check one out a little more closely before you totally discount the
idea of installing a Verner in you plane. And I've promised to relay
performance and reliability data on the engine to this List as I accumulate
hours on my own Mark-3.
Good luck in your engine quest ...
Dennis Kirby
Mark-III, N93DK, Verner, Powerfin72 in
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tiffany Pitra <tif_qtra(at)yahoo.com> |
Thats how we put the quil output assembly in the trans. on a UH-1 huey helicopter.
Tolerances are very tight , on the transmission output quil are cooled and
the trans. assembly area is heated. qtra
"M. Domenic Perez" wrote:--> Kolb-List message
posted by: "M. Domenic Perez"
Parts that have been press fit together by heating the outer part and
cooling the inner one can, in fact, have a reverse procedure done to take
them apart if that becomes necessary. Use heat to warm the outer part (of
course the inner part will also be warmed at the same time). Then apply cold
to the inner part using a chunk of dry ice. This is effective, but probably
depends on the configuration being worked with. Handle dry ice with
considerable care. Applying it to something that's hot can be kind of
spectacular - lots of "boil and bubble". By the way, I have never done this
myself - I just witnessed a (non-aircraft) mechanic use the technique on an
assembly out of a farm tractor.
M. Domenic Perez
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Problems I can't Seem to Whip |
Try fastening your static line below your pitot tube.You can tape them
together if you want.Take the 1/4 in static tube,solder the end shut and then
drill 4 small holes in the sides of the tube,two on each side about an inch
apart.Mine tubes are 4 inchs below the belly anchored to the floor ,but they
should be fine both through the nose.The static is 1 inch shorter than the
pitot but that might matter either.It seems very accurate.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Sudlow" <sudlow77(at)earthlink.net> |
Denny,
Not sure if you consider Chicago a day trip, but you're more than welcome to
a ride out here. There are 4 Kolbs including mine. 2 with 582's & 2 with
912's for towing hang gliders. We fly out of Cushing Field about 50 miles
west of Chicago.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: <rowedl(at)highstream.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Mk-3 ride
>
> Listers,
> Hughs question about getting a Kolb ride reminded me that I need to get a
check ride in a Mk-3 or Kolbra real soon. I was unable to get to TNKs open
house this year where I had hoped to hop a ride.
> I am a low time private pilot and fly a Loehle Sport Parasol, used to fly
Pterodactyls, but my only Kolb ride was back in the late 80s in an old
Twinstar, a ride that sold me on Kolbs. That thing really performed on a
503.
> Anyway, is there anyone within a daytrip of Pittsburgh PA who would be
willing to sale me a ride in their Kolb.
> Denny Rowe
> Mk-3 690L-70
> N616DR final assembly stage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Saftey wiring spark plug wires, |
Here is a question for any electrical engineers on the list.
I recently safety wired my sparkplug wires to my NGK resistive spark plug caps.
This was done over both ends of the boot with a double loop at each end, one over
boot and wire, the other over the boot and cap. I also did this at the ignition
modules as they are the exact same type of connection as the plug caps.
I used one continuous piece of safety wire at each plug wire end and acheived a
very nice strain relief effect, not to mention it looks super.
Here is the problem. : Now I am wondering if the shorted coils wrapped around
the plug wires could cause a parasitic inductive load on the spark impulse and
possibly cause a reshaping of the wave form.
What I basically have is a one to four tranformer coupling between the plug wire
(primary winding) and the safety wire secondary winding.
I hate to go with zip tyes in place of these if the wire won't cause a problem,
but if there is any doubt, the wire is outa there.
Denny (Wringing my hands in PA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | New Aileron Trim, AOA Meter, & Coolant Viewing |
Kolbers & FireFly Owners,
I converted the aileron trim mechanism to a system that does not go out side the
cage. A little lighter and safer that the old system. It can be seen on the
bottom at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly51.html
Since I have been flying a little, I discovered my new angle of attack meter is
not working as described at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly85.html
When I first researched this technique, I was placing the strings much lower and
they worked great. Then I overheated the Victor 1+, and while waiting for parts
I reworked the system and installed as described. I placed the strings higher
on the windshield so that I could see them easier. But in doing so I moved
them up on the round part of the windshield and away from the slab sides.
Unfortunately, this new position made the string very unresponsive to angle of
attack. I will go back and research where to put them to get better response
and up grade the page.
It is snowing again here today, so I put up some photos and explanation for some
of the coolant plumbing on the Victor 1+. After frying the engine, I am almost
paranoid about seeing or knowing that there is coolant in the engine. These
photos can be seen at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly86.html
This is a poor substitute for flying, but it is the best I can do for today.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Safety wiring spark plug wires, |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
>
> Here is a question for any electrical engineers on the list.
> I recently safety wired my sparkplug wires to my NGK resistive spark
> plug caps.
>snip>
> Denny (Wringing my hands in PA)
Denny,
In the old days I wired the plug caps with safety wire until I got one
underneath one of the plugs and tightened it down. It made a channel in
the softer aluminum head (ouch). Then, I got worried about the wire
shorting out the spark so I found a better way. Drill two small holes in
the cowling near the plugs on either side (about 4"-6"). Run a couple
strands of safety wire through each of the holes and twist together. Run
a plastic tie wrap around the plug cap and safety wire to hold the plug
caps down. This works much better.
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
| Subject: | New Aileron Trim, AOA Meter, & Coolant Viewing |
Jack,
Are you billing The Victor engine people for the R&D your doing
for them??? Just curious...
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
It is snowing again here today, so I put up some photos and explanation
for some of the coolant plumbing on the Victor 1+. After frying the
engine, I am almost paranoid about seeing or knowing that there is
coolant in the engine. These photos can be seen at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly86.html
This is a poor substitute for flying, but it is the best I can do for
today.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | b young <byoung(at)brigham.net> |
Try fastening your static line below your pitot tube.You can
tape them
together if you want.Take the 1/4 in static tube,solder the
end shut and then
drill 4 small holes in the sides of the tube,two on each
side about an inch
apart.Mine tubes are 4 inchs below the belly anchored to the
floor ,but they
should be fine both through the nose.The static is 1 inch
shorter than the
pitot but that might matter either.It seems very accurate.
============================
on my first attempt on a peto static i put them both out the
front and the asi read low.... i put them out the bottom
about 4 inches down and it fixed the problem.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Victor 1+ Development & FireFly |
>
>Jack,
>
> Are you billing The Victor engine people for the R&D your doing
>for them??? Just curious...
>
>Jeremy Casey
>jrcasey(at)ldl.net
>
Jeremy,
No. I just wanted something better than a Rotax 447 on the FireFly. Simonini
nor any engine manufacturer can not be held accountable for someone mounting their
engine on a FireFly. It is really up to the designer or, in this case, the
builder to come up with a suitable mounting configuration. So what you are
seeing are the trials and tribulations of someone trying to keep his FireFly
within the ultra light vehicle regulations with the mounting of a new engine.
In trying to keep off weight, I built some things too light and they broke.
In most of the cases no one heard about it because it did not fry the engine.
But after about ten hours on the engine, I thought I had seen the last of the
early failures, and I was ready to go across country, but I was wrong. The good
thing about it is that each failure made me think it through again and most
of the time the solution was stronger and lighter than what was before.
The rebuilt engine is running very well. I do not know how well because I have
not been able to record any fuel consumption data. But the engine has used two
gallons of fuel since it was put back together and this includes 50 minutes
of flight time. This indicates an average fuel consumption rate of 2.4 gph.
But if one subtracts the fuel used for warm up and taxiing to and from (four
times) the taxiway I use as a runway (.08 gallon on a warm day), the average for
50 minutes of flight time would be just over 2 gph. If I had a better figure
for fuel used during warm up and taxi out for cold weather, actual in flight
fuel consumption will fall below 2 gph. This is very exciting to me and I want
to find out just how good this engine is. During this time I was flying a
700 foot pattern and shot 10 landings.
Since I sent in the last message I have been at work trying to get a little microphone
hooked up to a small cassette recorder so that I can record data in flight.
I finally got it to work, and I have to work up a throat mike holder for
the microphone to keep from getting too much engine noise on the tape. Then
I will be able to record ias, gps speed, engine rpm, and fuel flow rate. When
I get the data, I will put up another plot. Right now the FireFly on downwind
leg, will fly about 65 mphi at 5200 rpm and the fuel flow meter will show about
one gallon per hour. For me this is very exciting, because it means I can
fly to my EAA meeting and back and not have to truck gas to be sure I can get
back. It also means I will be able make cross countries without spending more
time on the ground getting gassed up than in the air traveling.
All of this effort helps me to appreciate all the work that has been done in developing
the FireFly, and to empathize with anyone who is mounting a non-Kolb
specified engine on their project. But for all those who say why bother changing
what Kolb has already designed, I say why not? Now on to getting my strut
fairings mounted to see if I can get a few more mph and lower gph even more.
Will it all be worth it? Time will tell.
I apologize for the ramblings, but the skiff of snow has turned into about six
inches and it is still coming down. I need to get back out and shovel so the
wife can get into the drive and the garage.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety wiring spark plug wires, |
Ralph,
You missunderstood what I was describing, I am safeting my wires to the caps
and ignition modules, not the caps to the engine. Trying to insure the wires
will not pull out of the plug caps or CDI modules.
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Safety wiring spark plug wires,
>
>
> >
> > Here is a question for any electrical engineers on the list.
> > I recently safety wired my sparkplug wires to my NGK resistive spark
> > plug caps.
> >snip>
> > Denny (Wringing my hands in PA)
>
> Denny,
>
> In the old days I wired the plug caps with safety wire until I got one
> underneath one of the plugs and tightened it down. It made a channel in
> the softer aluminum head (ouch). Then, I got worried about the wire
> shorting out the spark so I found a better way. Drill two small holes in
> the cowling near the plugs on either side (about 4"-6"). Run a couple
> strands of safety wire through each of the holes and twist together. Run
> a plastic tie wrap around the plug cap and safety wire to hold the plug
> caps down. This works much better.
>
> Ralph
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Dear Santa,
This Christmas I would like a new Kolb Mark III X-tra with the 912S engine and
Warp drive prop. If your elves can manage I would also like it to be fitted with
EIS and painted in plain white. I know you like white and a touch of red would
be ok if you see fit. I know your on a tight budget as most of us are but
hey your Santa! Don't bother trying to fit it thru the chimney even though the
wings fold. I have been a very good boy this year and if you see fit this would
make me very happy. Plus the folks at The New Kolb aircraft company and others
that have Kolb aircraft have assured me that they are safe and fun to fly.
Not to knock you set up, with the reindeer and all, but you might like to look
into one yourself with skis!
I know that you are close to Jesus and all and please don't let those folks in
Australia get you down with all their anti Santa BS.
Perhaps if you outfit yourself with a Kolb he just might want to join you for a
ride!
Thanks
Paul
ps. I will have the usual snacks out for you (crawfish & your favorite beverage)!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Throttle and choke cable splitter problem averted |
Dual and triple carb two stroke pilots.
I think I avoided a potential puzzler today.
I have three bing carbs on my 690L and am using the three into one cable splitters
on both, the throttle and the enrichers.
Today I decided to wrap the individual sets of three cables with spiral wrap from
where they come out of the top of the splitters up to the point where the begin
to separate to each carb, (also could have used zip ties.) (I spelled ties
right today}
Anyway, after I finished, I shook the set of throttle cables side to side to simulate
the rocking of the engine when running. Upon doing this, I could hear
the slides in the carbs pinging lightly off the idle stop screws. This happened
because the cables where tied together by the spiral wrap so the ends were rocking
up and down in the caps of the splitters causing the slides to alternate
up and down slightly. I figured the enricher plungers could be doing the same
thing, so I removed the wrap on those too.
I am sure this would have caused a real tough tuning problem down the road.
Bottom line, I don't think its a good idea to tie the sets of throttle or enricher
cables together where they exit the splitters on the carb side.
Denny Rowe
Mk-3 N616DR 2SI 690L-70 Gull wing doors like Vamoose
Final assembly
PA
PS: Also filled the Matco brakes with Dot-5 the other day, used the bottom up gravity
feed method with a 6 foot 1/4" ID clear tube, worked great, the brakes
feel strong.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Saftey wiring spark plug wires, |
Denny,
If the plug wires are properly screwed into the plug cap and coil I cannot
imagine them ever coming loose. I would be more concerned with the safety
wire causing a problem. Just my thoughts.
Steven Green
N58SG
MK3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Saftey wiring spark plug wires, aka Safety |
I don't think you oughta wring yer hands over this (maybe) "transformer"
problem. Why not try it on your car/truck? To see whether there is any
actual inductive pickup, wrap a coupla turns around one of yer truck
plug wires, ground one end. Bend the other end so that it is close to
grd metal. Wait for nightfall. Start engine.See if any spark jumps off
the ungnded end. Since it's dark, feel around till you find the end. Ck
to see if yer eyeballs light up. Ck rpm. Then grnd the open end. Ck rpm.
Rationalize.
Some tachs get their info from a twisted wire around a plug lead.
Doesn't bother the plug.
Bob N. EE49 (before sparks)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Saftey wiring spark plug wires, |
In a message dated 12/13/02 10:23:39 PM Eastern Standard Time,
SGreenpg(at)aol.com writes:
>
> Denny,
>
> If the plug wires are properly screwed into the plug cap and coil I cannot
> imagine them ever coming loose. I would be more concerned with the safety
> wire causing a problem. Just my thoughts.
>
> Steven Green
> N58SG
> MK3
>
>
> Denny n folk....I may not understand exactly what's being said here but I
for one HAVE had a problem with the lil smooth coke bottle metallic cap
screwing itself back off the top of the spark plug and moving far enough away
from the threaded post at the top of the plug to make my one cylinder
useless......while I was at the 500 foot level!!! Fortunately I was high
enough and close enough to the field to Kill the engine which was vibrating
wildly, I aimed the ol nose right at the power lines I had to pass over...saw
I had enough speed....and came in for an eventless dead stick landing. Just
another day in the life of;.......... etc.
The problem was that the cap was screwable. If it were part of the plug head,
I don't think the wire terminal of the ignition lead would have departed the
coke bottle top of the spark plug..at least it never has yet.
So shit happens and fortunately I was in a position to glide it in.
I am pretty sure if I had a tight safety wire system on the ignition wire the
plug would have continued to fire in spite of the cap coming off the top of
the plug. I am also pretty sure that if the plug did not have that lil coke
bottle cap screwable on the top of it the wire probably would have never
come 0ff either. dunno bout this fer sure, but this is what I think Denny is
trying to protect against.
One thought ..... a transformer requires a circuit on the secondary side
to make current flow...otherwise only a secondary voltage would exist
in the secondary
( safety wire) therefore no spark energy is lost if no current flows in
the safety wire. ie. the way the safety wire is used would determine if
it affected the spark shape against time. There is the potential for a poor
transformer there but it may not drain any energy from the plug wire
if it is not a circuit.
Flame away
George Randolph
Firestar driver from Akron Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Saftey wiring spark plug wires, |
You can order spark plugs from CPS and other U/L dealers where the plug top
is not a screw off aluminum top, but a solid steel top of the same shape as
the screw off aluminum coke bottle shaped top. They cost more, but worth
it. The tops do not screw off, they are an integral part of the plug.
There is another reason to use those instead of the plugs with the aluminum
screw off top:
I discovered that my brick red phenolic spark plug caps (The ones that are
on the high tension leads from the coil) were wiggling around on the spark
plugs. This was because the wire clip inside had vibrated it's way into the
NGK aluminum spark plug screw off top, and was now free to wiggle around in
the area it had chewed up.
Installed now spark plugs and after a few hours, the situation repeated
itself. Went to solid steel topped spark plugs and solved the problem. I
suggest not using spark plugs with aluminum tops for that reason also.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>> Denny n folk....I may not understand exactly what's being said here but I
>for one HAVE had a problem with the lil smooth coke bottle metallic cap
>screwing itself back off the top of the spark plug
>The problem was that the cap was screwable.
>Flame away
>George Randolph
>Firestar driver from Akron Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Saftey wiring spark plug wires, |
Just a thought,
Could we (should we?) use some type of lock tight/glue stuff on those little
"bottle cap" screwable tip threads on the spark plugs to avoid this being an
issue? Lot of juice going through so it might be a problem if the "glue" is
the flammable type.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Saftey wiring spark plug wires, |
As Richard said, only use the solid top, NGK plugs, They are the only ones
NGK endorses for aircraft use, There was resently an article in EAA
Experimenter on this subject. NGK actually said, {never}use the screw off
top plugs in aircraft. They gave the NGK number for the correct plugs in the
article. This is a must, if you are using screw off lid spark plugs, replace
them as soon as possible.
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: <SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Saftey wiring spark plug wires,
>
> Just a thought,
>
> Could we (should we?) use some type of lock tight/glue stuff on those
little
> "bottle cap" screwable tip threads on the spark plugs to avoid this being
an
> issue? Lot of juice going through so it might be a problem if the "glue"
is
> the flammable type.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
> Those I drilled shy and taped in.
>
>Hi Ya'll:
>
>I think the above should have been spelled
>"tapped".
>
>Didn't want you all thinking I taped the bushings
>in place. :-)
>
>john h
Thought you may have used Alabama Solder (Duct tape) to tape them
in. If you weld them in and they wear out you would have more of a problem
replacing them. Taping them or pushing them in would make replacing a lot
easier. Of course if you bolt the fittings together this becomes a moot point.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
> Those I drilled shy and taped in.
>
>Hi Ya'll:
>
>I think the above should have been spelled
>"tapped".
>
>Didn't want you all thinking I taped the bushings
>in place. :-)
>
>john h
Thought you may have used Alabama Solder (Duct tape) to tape them
in. If you weld them in and they wear out you would have more of a problem
replacing them. Taping them or pushing them in would make replacing a lot
easier. Of course if you bolt the fittings together this becomes a moot point.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
> Those I drilled shy and taped in.
>
>Hi Ya'll:
>
>I think the above should have been spelled
>"tapped".
>
>Didn't want you all thinking I taped the bushings
>in place. :-)
>
>john h
Thought you may have used Alabama Solder (Duct tape) to tape them
in. If you weld them in and they wear out you would have more of a problem
replacing them. Taping them or pushing them in would make replacing a lot
easier. Of course if you bolt the fittings together this becomes a moot point.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
test
tttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>Hmmmmm............................think I shoulda re-read your message a
>little closer before I said the same thing as you did. Sorry, Woody.
No Sweat. I don't know for a fact but I would bet that the bushing
material John mentioned is softer than the AN pin that is used. Welding may
not be a good idea.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DCREECH3(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Problems I can't Seem to Whip |
In a message dated 12/12/2002 8:42:46 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ZepRep251(at)aol.com writes:
<< My tubes are 4 inchs below the belly anchored to the floor ,but they
should be fine both through the nose. >>
A static port through the nose will be problematic, since you need an area of
neutral pressure for that. A location out the side, or as in your case the
bottom, of the fuselage offers a better bet, I think.
Lee in Ky
Firestar II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Saftey wiring spark plug wires, |
SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com wrote:
> Could we (should we?) use some type of lock tight/glue stuff on those little
> "bottle cap" screwable tip threads on the spark plugs to avoid this being an
> issue?
I used pliers!
Lot of juice going through so it might be a
problem if the "glue" is
> the flammable type.
Recommend installing miniature automatic fire
extinguishers on each spark plug terminal in case
of a terminal fire caused by flammable glue.
Take care,
john h
DO NOT ARCHVE
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Safety wiring spark plug wires, |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
>
> As Richard said, only use the solid top, NGK plugs, They are the
> only ones
> NGK endorses for aircraft use, There was resently an article in
> EAA
> Experimenter on this subject. NGK actually said, {never}use the
> screw off
> top plugs in aircraft. They gave the NGK number for the correct
> plugs in the
> article. This is a must, if you are using screw off lid spark plugs,
> replace
> them as soon as possible.
> Denny
Denny,
I've been using NGK screw type plugs for 16 years. To make sure the caps
don't come off, take a small pair of channel locks and tighten them once
they are installed. They won't come loose.
Ralph
Original Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety wiring spark plug wires, |
But how does that keep the wire clip in the Rotax cap from eating it's way
into the aluminum spark plug cap?
I'm sticking with the steel capped plugs. I may be frugal, but they're only
a buck apiece more...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>I've been using NGK screw type plugs for 16 years. To make sure the caps
>don't come off, take a small pair of channel locks and tighten them once
>they are installed. They won't come loose.
>
>Ralph
>Original Firestar
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Saftey wiring spark plug wires, |
In a message dated 12/13/02 11:44:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, GeoR38(at)aol.com
writes:
> The problem was that the cap was screwable. If it were part of the plug
> head,
> I don't think the wire terminal of the ignition lead would have departed
> the
> coke bottle top of the spark plug..at least it never has yet.
>
Good grief!! Don't you guys put red "Locktite" on those threads & screw it
down real tight when you gap those plugs?
Shack
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Safety wiring spark plug wires, |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Richard,
The plugs are changed annually and there never has been a problem with
the spark plug cap clip eating into the aluminum spark plug screw tip.
There may be a couple of reasons. When the aluminum tips are tightened
with channel locks, it leaves some knurling on them which helps hold the
plug caps on better. Second reason, the caps are held in place with tie
wraps and this helps keep the vibration down. I'm using NGK black spark
plug caps used on snowmobiles. I switched to this type after the kit was
built. I've never changed them and it does not have the grommet ring
around it like the brown ones did. This leaves a space in the cowling for
hot air to escape around the plugs.
Ralph
Original Firestar
writes:
>
> But how does that keep the wire clip in the Rotax cap from eating
> it's way
> into the aluminum spark plug cap?
> I'm sticking with the steel capped plugs. I may be frugal, but
> they're only
> a buck apiece more...
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> >I've been using NGK screw type plugs for 16 years. To make sure the
> caps
> >don't come off, take a small pair of channel locks and tighten them
> once
> >they are installed. They won't come loose.
> >
> >Ralph
> >Original Firestar
> >
> >
>
>
>
> _->
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Safety wiring spark plug wires, |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
>
> Good grief!! Don't you guys put red "Locktite" on those threads &
> screw it
> down real tight when you gap those plugs?
>
> Shack
> FS II
> SC
Shack,
No need for locktite, just tighten them down with a pair of channel lock
pliers while the plugs are installed in the engine to make sure they are
tight. I try and tell these guys this but it's not getting through.
Ralph
Original Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
> I am wondering
> though if the wings should be covered first and then have the ailrons hooked
> up, or the ailrons should be hinged first and then covered.
Ron
Ron/Gents:
I put everything together prior to covering. All
hinges made up and drilled, attached temporarily
with cheap soft rivets (a couple two or three each
side will hole them in position). Rig wings,
tailsection, position aileron horns, push pull
tubes, the whole nine yards.
Then cover and dope through Polybrush. Stick the
hinges on permanently, cement the fabric gap
seals, a couple coats of brush applied Polybrush
to gap seals and finish up with Polyspray, and
paint.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Blane Cox" <coxhb(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Kawasaki engine info |
Do any of you know of a on-line information source about Kawasaki 330 engines?
Things like specifications, maintenance schedules, repair manuals, parts suppliers,
vendors, personal web pages, etc.
Thanks,
Blane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
> or the ailrons should be hinged first and then covered. Kit #2 arrived
>and it aint out of the little house it came within. Runing out of room in my
>hanger with that big Box/crate/container/shack in there.
I did mine a bit different from the book. I attached the hinges
permanently first and then when I covered I put little slots in the fabric
where the hinge ears stick out. I think it looks a lot better than sticking
the hinges on the outside of the fabric. It is a fast and simple operation
to make those little slits as long as you have a new blade in your cutting
knife. You will probably change the fabric before the hinges so there is
less to remove to get all the fabric off. Also do not try to tighten your
fabric as you put it on. That will reduce the amount of shrinkage you can
do with the iron. I don't remember who ( it may have been Jim and Dondi or
someone at the old Kolb) but I was advised to place a length of tubing
under the fabric as you put it on and then remove the tube later. This will
give you a proper amount of slack in the fabric. I have done 3 Kolbs like
this now and they all worked out great. While I am rambling on I will
mention one other covering modification I did. When putting on the bottom
fabric wrap it as far around the leading edge as you can. It will reach
almost to the thickest part of the chord. glue it down real good and then
cut the fabric length wise every inch or two up to a couple inches from
each rib. Tighten this front part with an iron. Now when you add the top
cover you will have a foundation underneath that will help minimize the
scalloping between the ribs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duncan McBride <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Cover wings
>
>
> > or the ailrons should be hinged first and then covered. Kit #2 arrived
> >and it aint out of the little house it came within. Runing out of room in
my
> >hanger with that big Box/crate/container/shack in there.
>
>
> I did mine a bit different from the book. I attached the hinges
> permanently first and then when I covered I put little slots in the fabric
> where the hinge ears stick out. I think it looks a lot better than
sticking
> the hinges on the outside of the fabric. It is a fast and simple operation
> to make those little slits as long as you have a new blade in your cutting
> knife. You will probably change the fabric before the hinges so there is
> less to remove to get all the fabric off. Also do not try to tighten your
> fabric as you put it on. That will reduce the amount of shrinkage you can
> do with the iron. I don't remember who ( it may have been Jim and Dondi or
> someone at the old Kolb) but I was advised to place a length of tubing
> under the fabric as you put it on and then remove the tube later. This
will
> give you a proper amount of slack in the fabric. I have done 3 Kolbs like
> this now and they all worked out great. While I am rambling on I will
> mention one other covering modification I did. When putting on the bottom
> fabric wrap it as far around the leading edge as you can. It will reach
> almost to the thickest part of the chord. glue it down real good and then
> cut the fabric length wise every inch or two up to a couple inches from
> each rib. Tighten this front part with an iron. Now when you add the top
> cover you will have a foundation underneath that will help minimize the
> scalloping between the ribs.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi(at)supernet.com> |
| Subject: | Interesting Engine! |
I stumbled across this new snowmobile engine and wondered if it could be
adapted for aircraft use. Not sure of the weight or dimensions.
Click on the engine to see a 3-D virtual reality picture. Keep clicking
the mouse to turn the picture.
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/products/sno/media/vr/03/rx-1er/rx-1Multi.htm#
-- Earl
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Interesting Engine! |
In a message dated 12/14/02 8:00:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,
emzi(at)supernet.com writes:
> I stumbled across this new snowmobile engine and wondered if it could be
> adapted for aircraft use. Not sure of the weight or dimensions.
>
WOW! 145 hp 4 stroke. Sounds perfect for my Firestar II.
Shack
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Floats on a Firestar II |
Ever since I began thinking of getting in to ultralights, I knew I would
eventually want to put on some floats. I'm getting close.
I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who has knowledge of a good setup
for amphibious floats on a Firestar II.
I am aware of the Full Lotus monofloat, but think I would prefer twin floats-
preferably something really light. My personal weight is 265...[No, don't
tell me to loose weight; I already dropped 20 lbs & that's about good as
it's gonna' get.]
Howard Shackleford
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tiffany Pitra <tif_qtra(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kawasaki engine info |
chilton has a full line of snowmobile manuals. And if you live in the snow belt
you probally find them in the libary. qtra
Do any of you know of a on-line information source about Kawasaki 330 engines?
Things like specifications, maintenance schedules, repair manuals, parts suppliers,
vendors, personal web pages, etc.
Thanks,
Blane
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johann G." <johann-g(at)talnet.is> |
| Subject: | Re: Floats on a Firestar II |
Hello Howard,
Look into this type of floats. They have many sizes.
http://www.czaw.cz/
Best regards,
Johann G.
Iceland.
----- Original Message -----
From: <HShack(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Floats on a Firestar II
>
> Ever since I began thinking of getting in to ultralights, I knew I would
> eventually want to put on some floats. I'm getting close.
>
> I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who has knowledge of a good setup
> for amphibious floats on a Firestar II.
>
> I am aware of the Full Lotus monofloat, but think I would prefer twin
floats-
> preferably something really light. My personal weight is 265...[No, don't
> tell me to loose weight; I already dropped 20 lbs & that's about good as
> it's gonna' get.]
>
> Howard Shackleford
> FS II
> SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Interesting Engine! |
Sounds like a real good deal all right, but let's look at a couple of
factors........................ It's a 1 liter (998cc) engine; about 61
cubic inches. So is the 3 cylinder Suzuki, and even when turbocharged that
engine doesn't produce even close to 150 hp. That would be 2.5 hp/cu. in.
WOW ! ! ! You guys jumped all over me a couple of years ago about this same
subject, so I guess I'm still old-fashioned. 2.5 hp/c.i.........I still
have trouble with that. It says "upward of 150 hp." How much is "upward"
to an adman ?? 135 hp ?? 140 hp ?? Those guys are professional liars.
(Sorry to any ad-men in the group) It has a reduction drive of
31:37............quite close to 1.2:1, so if you're turning the engine at
8000 rpm (! ! !), the output will be at 6666 rpm, and you'd still need a
redrive on it. The brochure also says it's a tall engine. How tall ??
It's difficult to impossible to lower an engine on a Kolb, without extensive
cutting and welding. Where would that put the thrust line ?? Vamoose'
thrust line is quite high, and even running it on the ground, I can see that
it will bear close watching, and may cause problems. On the positive
side, it IS a Yamaha, whose products & reputation are excellent. Then, too,
if the engine isn't too heavy, it would still work very well even if it only
put out, say, 100 hp or 120 hp. I t'ink I'll sit back and watch for a bit.
Flame Away ! ! ! Skeptical Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Volum" <peterv(at)etsmiami.com>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Interesting Engine!
>
> I'm salivating at the thought...
>
> If the entire snowmobile costs less than $10,000, I wonder what the
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry <davistcs(at)eoni.com> |
Woody,
When you cut the fabric to minimize the scalloping, does that leave marks
or lines in the finish on the top fabric. I've thought of doing the cut
fabric number when I cover my wings in a week or so but I didn't know if it
would help much and I was worried about it leaving a corrugated look in the
fabric/finish. But then "you the man", you've done 3 and I haven't even
done one yet!
Terry Davis
FS, still covering
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William George <wgeorge(at)mountainmeadowranch.com> |
Dennis Kirby posted some remarks on engine selection and the Verner that I
thought were spot on. Like that old car commercial says "ask the man who
owns one."
Some months back Rotax engine guru Steve Beatty was in Hawaii assisting in
the installation of a 912 on Adriel Heisey's Twinstar. I borrowed him for a
while to check on a problem I had with a loss of 400 rpm on full throttle
go-around. Turned out to be a frayed boot on the intake manifold.
While here Steve got a chance to look over the Verner and liked what he saw.
Peering into the heads he opined that some nice Czech fellow had polished
the ports, not often seen in production engines. He also said that Czech
steel is of very high quality.
Steve's email is gassitt(at)aol.com
Wind finally subsided so I flew my Mk-3 two days this week. It had been
eleven weeks since it was last started. I charged the battery, did a
thorough preflight and cranked it up. It started on the first try and ran
smoothly. I will admit that I had previously experienced hard starting on
occasion. After trying every combination known to man I finally hit upon a
procedure that works every time. Simply close the throttle completely, do
not use choke and don't advance the throttle until the engine completely
catches. Works every time.
Initial climb was 1000 fpm from an airport elevation of 2671 ft. Surface
temperature 65 degrees. Cruise was 64 mph at 3800 RPM, 4500 to 5500 MSL.
Climb CHT was 180. Cruise CHT was 170.
The only issue I currently am experiencing with the Verner is low oil
temperature. I have been progressively taping the oil cooler. It is now
about half taped and the temperature still doesn't get above 65C.
Propeller is a Powerfin "F" model three blade at 68 inches. The Powerfin is
an excellent propeller. I could use a bit more cruise but the only way to
get it would be to go to an in flight adjustable prop or perhaps a two
blade.
Pitch/cruise airspeed at 3800 RPM is as follows: 12.2/64, 13.5/66, 14.6/68.
Got my first visit by a Kolb Lister. Erich Weaver visited last week with his
wife and young daughter. Had a good chat about Kolbs and took him to see my
Mk-3. Of course it was in the trailer but he was able to check it out fairly
well. Very nice family.
Now that the ice is broken would expect that you guys will give me a call
when you are on the Big Island.
Bill George
Kolb Mk-3/Verner1400SVS/Powerfin 68" "F"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Armstrong" <cen33475(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Problems I can't Seem to Whip |
A static port through the nose will be problematic, since you need an area
of
neutral pressure for that. A location out the side, or as in your case the
bottom, of the fuselage offers a better bet, I think.
Lee in Ky
Firestar II
what your looking for is an area with zero velocity in the direction of the
static ports. most people make this by putting a tub out in front of the
aircraft mounted at the cruise angle of incidence and puting the static port
holes around the sides of the tube. if you mount this tube on a universal
pivot with fins at the back then the tube points into the wind at all times
and you get really acurate static pressure. pitot pressure can be obtained
by the end of this tube and since it points into the wind it is very acurate
as well. you can also put one static port on either side of the plane and
let the side slip average out. the main thing is to try to get un
accelerated air, which will result in a bad static reading. more or less
dont mount them where the surface is curved and you wont get hogh or low
readings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Interesting Engine! |
| From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
Hell it almost looks like the perfect engine. One thing though how much does
it wiegh? Could not see it in the specs. Another thing is the reduction
drive. I may just go down to the Yamaha dealer and see if I can get more
specs on this bad boy. Other than that it looks better than anything else I
have seen so far inclusive of the Rota$.
Now who can do a reduction drive for it? Of course I am going here on the
assumption that this motor goes for around 1.5K US$, it being stuck in a
snow mobil.
=========================================
12/14/02 17:57Earl & Mim Zimmerman
>
> I stumbled across this new snowmobile engine and wondered if it could be
> adapted for aircraft use. Not sure of the weight or dimensions.
> Click on the engine to see a 3-D virtual reality picture. Keep clicking
> the mouse to turn the picture.
> http://www.yamaha-motor.com/products/sno/media/vr/03/rx-1er/rx-1Multi.htm#
> -- Earl
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
Kolb listers,
Has anyone had problems with the ckoke lever pull force being to heavy on their
dual carb rotax 2 strokes? My 690 has three carbs and I am unable to apply
the chokes due to the high pull force required to lift the plungers.
I have disassembled the entire set up to look for problem spots jamming things
up, but it just seems that the choke spring rates are just too high. Even with
one carb disconnected, and only two chokes hooked up, the pull force is extreamly
high.
I even tried a longer choke lever for more leverage. Feels like I am gonna break
the cable.
I am going to try to locate shorter lower rate springs tommorow for eack carb.
Anyone have any other ideas?
Thanks
Denny Rowe
Mk-3 N616DR 2SI 690L-70
Final assembly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Weber" <bweber2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Remote ckokes |
Go with a primer setup. You won't need the chokes then. Got rid of my choke
and never missed it.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <rowedl(at)highstream.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Remote ckokes
>
> Kolb listers,
> Has anyone had problems with the ckoke lever pull force being to heavy on
their dual carb rotax 2 strokes? My 690 has three carbs and I am unable to
apply the chokes due to the high pull force required to lift the plungers.
> I have disassembled the entire set up to look for problem spots jamming
things up, but it just seems that the choke spring rates are just too high.
Even with one carb disconnected, and only two chokes hooked up, the pull
force is extreamly high.
> I even tried a longer choke lever for more leverage. Feels like I am
gonna break the cable.
> I am going to try to locate shorter lower rate springs tommorow for eack
carb.
> Anyone have any other ideas?
>
> Thanks
> Denny Rowe
> Mk-3 N616DR 2SI 690L-70
> Final assembly
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Saftey wiring spark plug wires, |
In a message dated 12/14/02 10:06:15 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jhauck(at)sw.rr.com writes:
> Recommend installing miniature automatic fire
> extinguishers on each spark plug terminal in case
> of a terminal fire caused by flammable glue.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
> DO NOT ARCHVE
>
> Jonathon , sure you Josh.... one extinguisher would be plenty, with double
> nozzles, of course
George Randolph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Verner comments |
> Pitch/cruise airspeed at 3800 RPM is as follows: 12.2/64, 13.5/66, 14.6/68.
> Bill George
Hi Bill/Gang:
I don't understand the poor performance with the
Verner. The Verner doesn't stack up to a Rotax
582 except in one area, fuel burn.
May be the difference in configuration of my
airplane with enclosed upper rear fuselage
compared to the open rear on most other MK III's.
When Miss P'fer was powered with the 65 hp 582 she
cruised at 80mph true at 5800 rpm or about 75%
power. In fact, the two most recent engine
upgrades have not improved much over the 582. The
912 cruised 80 to 85 mph and the 912S cruises 85
to 88 mph at 5,000 rpm. Granted each engine is
turning different pitch. All three used 70 inch
diameter Warp Drive Fast Taper blades. The 582
burned 5.5 gph, 912 4 gph, and the 912S 5.0 gph at
cruise.
No other modification to my airplane have been
done in outside dimensions or configuration except
enclosing the upper rear fuselage and changing the
main landing gear configuration.
Maybe differences in degree of heat shrinking
fabric on wings and other parts of the airplane.
I shrink until things start bending. May be
amount and quality of dope and finish paint. I
slather (as Dennis Sounder used to say) the dope
and paint on pretty thick. May be the differences
in dihedral and incidence of wings and tail. I
don't know, but am happy with the way my old bird
performs.
Please don't take my post the wrong way. I hope
everyone's different engine and airplane combos
work out great. I do not work for nor have I ever
received a penny from Rotax for flying their
products, although many years ago Erick Tucker did
help me out with some parts to get my 582 going
initially. He also gave me an oil tank cap and
the big "O" ring for the oil tank when I stopped
by to visit him in Vernon, BC, during my return
from Barrow, Alaska, in July 2001. That's it for
Rotax support of any of my flights.
If I do some comparisons between what I fly and
what you guys are flying or contemplating buying,
it is because I want to make sure you understand
what is being advertised as it stacks up against
what reality is. I.e., the Verner claiming 80 hp
while letting the fact the it is only good for 70
hp max continuous performance. Stuff like that I
think folks should know about and not be misled.
I dig in their manuals which are posted on line
and see what is in them. Same same for intensive
maintenance. There are reasons that
manufacturers, other than Rotax, of ultralight and
lightplane engines haven't taken off and given
Rotax any real competition. I think if you look
at their track record so far you will see that
most have had problems. So has Rotax had some
pretty good problems. I have experienced some of
them. Anyhow, have rambled enough and it is time
to scratch up some chow supper.
Again, please don't take my post the wrong way. I
am not trying to shoot down anyone's product.
Trying to see what is really out there. Besides,
I am not in the market for a new engine or
airplane. Happy with what I presently have.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Woody, I am also very intersted in your rambling tips!....LOL....I am
finishing building my ailerons and will start asembling for rigging this
week. I have been thinking about covering and so on.
Do you rivet the fab to those skinny little ribs, or do you rib stich em'??
The riveting idea does seem attractive as a time saver, but that 5/16's rib
tube seems so small that all those holes worry me.
Also, on the idea of something to prevent the scalloping, I sure link that
tip on the wrapping of the bottom fabric way around. I was trying to think
up a way to help support the dabric there and this sounds like a winner..I
had been considering using flat rib lacing across the ribs to accomplish
this, but im sire it would show, as narrow as it is. this seems like a great
idea. If you think up any more tips for us fellas about to the covering
stage..PLEASE ...ramble onward !
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
Also ..Woody, when you cut the slits for the hinge ears to stick thru...do
you cement the fab down so you can still see the rivits on the hinge? I keep
thinking about doing this just so, but I'm not sure i understand the
technique just zactly!
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
Gents,
While on the subject I noticed that there is never any mention of HKS engines.
Are they good/bad? I'm sold on the 912S. But like to look at others. At a recent
fly in a man showed up in a homebuilt that looked like a Kolb.Well I went over
to investigate of course, and noticed he had used a Honda 650CBR engine mounted
low next to the tail boom and had a chain drive set up to a home made spinner
shaft using common pillow block bearings. He powered the spinner via chain
(a very long one) from the countershaft sprocket of the motorcycle engine!
As he flew off it was very quiet and seem to fly very well. I heard others make
the comment, "Yeah and he shift's the thing while in flight!".
Crazy ey?
I have some photos if any of you want to see it.
Thanks
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>Also ..Woody, when you cut the slits for the hinge ears to stick thru...do
>you cement the fab down so you can still see the rivits on the hinge? I keep
>thinking about doing this just so, but I'm not sure i understand the
>technique just zactly!
>
>Don Gherardini
You guys had better glue the fabric down good if your going to cut the
slits for the hinges,
instead of putting the hinges on top of the fabric.
If you don't - when you heat shrink it - those slits will open up like a
carp's mouth.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Interesting Engine! |
I'll see if I can find out what one would cost. My son is a mechanic at
one of Michigan's largest Yamaha dealerships. See what else I can find
out about it. I understand it is basically the same engine as the one
on the R1 crotch rocket motorcycle. He had one of those and it was a
screamer. I took it out once and was over 100 mph in third when I
looked at the speedo. He used to take it to the drags and I believe it
turned in the low eights. I can believe the 150 hp figure. You should
see what they get out of the ice drag sleds up here. Might be able to
get the R1 engine pretty reasonable used, as they wreck those bikes
on a regular basis. Way too much bike for the kids that buy them
generally. The bike engine would have the gear reduction too. Could
be fun!
:o)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>Woody,
> When you cut the fabric to minimize the scalloping, does that
> leave marks
>or lines in the finish on the top fabric. I've thought of doing the cut
>fabric number when I cover my wings in a week or so but I didn't know if it
>would help much and I was worried about it leaving a corrugated look in the
>fabric/finish. But then "you the man", you've done 3 and I haven't even
>done one yet!
>Terry Davis
>FS, still covering
I do not see any marks from the fabric underneath. The fabric is still
soft enough that they will form to the top fabric. Scalloping is not
eliminated and Jim and dondi have a shrinking technique that minimizes it
also. Using the two together should give you a good wing. You may be able
to see my covering job if you go to photo search and look at some of my
photos including the older ones.
The X hinge set up seems to be overkill on a part that has not shown
any problems. Use the instructions for installing gap seals and forget
about using book binding tape. The original way is fast, easy, cheap, and
long lasting.
________________________________________________________________________________
Paul, I for one would love to see the photos.
Richard Harris
MK3 N912RH
Lewisville, Arkansas
>
> Gents,
> While on the subject I noticed that there is never any mention of HKS
November 30, 2002 - December 15, 2002
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ea