Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-eb
December 15, 2002 - January 09, 2003
engines. Are they good/bad? I'm sold on the 912S. But like to look at
others. At a recent fly in a man showed up in a homebuilt that looked like a
Kolb.Well I went over to investigate of course, and noticed he had used a
Honda 650CBR engine mounted low next to the tail boom and had a chain drive
set up to a home made spinner shaft using common pillow block bearings. He
powered the spinner via chain (a very long one) from the countershaft
sprocket of the motorcycle engine! As he flew off it was very quiet and seem
to fly very well. I heard others make the comment, "Yeah and he shift's the
thing while in flight!".
> Crazy ey?
> I have some photos if any of you want to see it.
>
> Thanks
> Paul
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Remote ckokes |
In a message dated 12/15/02 4:31:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rowedl(at)highstream.net writes:
> I am going to try to locate shorter lower rate springs tommorow for eack
> carb.
> Anyone have any other ideas?
>
>
Maybe cut about 2 coils off the existing springs.
Shack
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
The plans say to rivit the fabric. These planes have flown thousands of
hours with this system with good results. I use a system called Hi pec or
now its called endura. The fabric is glued to the ribs. I heard once the
faa rules and regs don't specify rib stitching if the top speed is under
100 mph. Your choice but if in doubt go by the book. Glue the fabric to the
hinges just like you are gluing it to the tubes. Don't be shy with the
glue. I have not seen these little slits open up like a carps mouth but I
suppose it could happen. Glad you enjoy my ramblings
>
>Woody, I am also very intersted in your rambling tips!....LOL....I am
>finishing building my ailerons and will start asembling for rigging this
>week. I have been thinking about covering and so on.
>Do you rivet the fab to those skinny little ribs, or do you rib stich em'??
>The riveting idea does seem attractive as a time saver, but that 5/16's rib
>tube seems so small that all those holes worry me.
>Also, on the idea of something to prevent the scalloping, I sure link that
>tip on the wrapping of the bottom fabric way around. I was trying to think
>up a way to help support the dabric there and this sounds like a winner..I
>had been considering using flat rib lacing across the ribs to accomplish
>this, but im sire it would show, as narrow as it is. this seems like a great
>idea. If you think up any more tips for us fellas about to the covering
>stage..PLEASE ...ramble onward !
>
>Don Gherardini
>FireFly 098
>http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In case your interested,
http://www.harley-davidson.com/PR/ENG/en/new_eng_trans.asp?WebLogicSessionPf06R8qIhz0ArZmm5UoT3KrIyWGfKHo8V0ClkeYCYpoSn08dyfg9|5078166962732252838/181237815/6/7005/7005/7002/7002/7005/-1|-5250543574297404224/181237784/6/7005/7005/7002/7002/7005/-1&bmLocaleen_US
________________________________________________________________________________
Paul, I would luve to see those pics pard...if you can ..email em to me at
donghe@one-eleven.net
thx pard
Don Gherardini
Firefly 098
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Cowan" <tcowan1917(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: turnie thingies. |
everyone is looking for the perfect power plant. well, possibly one is in
the making. go check out the web sites at: http://airscooter.com and
http://aerotwinmotors.com . if the figures are correct about weight, etc,
and the man is close on his projected price of $6500 available next year,
this is going to revolutionize the industry. going to be hard to beat. my
opinion. ted cowan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi(at)supernet.com> |
Paul Petty wrote:
>
>
> In case your interested,
>
No Thanks! I'm afraid my wings would vibrate off :-) -- Earl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
<donghe@one-eleven.net> writes:
> <donghe@one-eleven.net>
>
> Woody, I am also very intersted in your rambling tips!....LOL....I
> am
> finishing building my ailerons and will start asembling for rigging
> this
> week. I have been thinking about covering and so on.
> Do you rivet the fab to those skinny little ribs, or do you rib
> stich em'??
> The riveting idea does seem attractive as a time saver, but that
> 5/16's rib
> tube seems so small that all those holes worry me.
> Also, on the idea of something to prevent the scalloping, I sure
> link that
> tip on the wrapping of the bottom fabric way around. I was trying to
> think
> up a way to help support the dabric there and this sounds like a
> winner..I
> had been considering using flat rib lacing across the ribs to
> accomplish
> this, but im sire it would show, as narrow as it is. this seems like
> a great
> idea. If you think up any more tips for us fellas about to the
> covering
> stage..PLEASE ...ramble onward !
>
> Don Gherardini
> FireFly 098
> http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don,
It isn't the fabric rivets alone that holds the covering on the ribs,
it's the polybrush too. I've seen the fabric removed from a Kolb wing and
it is glued very well to the ribs along with the riveting. I've had mine
for 16 years and there's no hint of it coming loose. The aluminum fabric
rivets and polybrush will do the job just fine.
Ralph
Original Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | engines n uppness |
In a message dated 12/16/02 10:33:21 AM Eastern Standard Time,
ul15rhb(at)juno.com writes:
>
> Paul,
>
> I'm a 20+ year biker too, but of the rice-burner type. I think a Harley
> engine would be much too heavy for a Kolb. There may be other aircraft
> where it may be considered a possibility. I've also been flying a
> Firestar with a 2-stroke engine(s) for 16 years (377/447). I really don't
> understand why many new Firestar builders are thinking about other
> engines when there is a proven one right under their noses. The lowly
> Rotax 447 is, in my opinion, a very reliable option on a Firestar or
> Firefly. I love my little 447 as it is easy to maintain and inspect. It's
> simplicity at its best. I'm sure there will be some very good 4-strokes
> on the market soon. It would be nice if Rotax made a scaled down 40-50 hp
> 912 (and it would be pricey), but until that day comes, the 2-strokes we
> have right now are good little engines if they are maintained and the
> operators know a few things about using them.
>
> In the past couple of years in this area, there have been 4 aircraft that
> went down with engine problems. These were 4-stroke certified aircraft
> engines. Having a 4-stroke engine on a aircraft does not necessarily mean
> that it won't quit on you. A 2-stroke engine has about 1/3 the moving
> parts of a 4-stroke. Less parts means less to go wrong. Recently a trike
> pilot made a 3000 mile flight from Sun-n-Fun to LA on a 2-stroke 503. On
> our list, a couple of Firestar pilots made a 4000 mile flight powered
> with 2-stroke 503's. For a low-cost engine, what more does a guy want?
>
> Ralph
> Original Firestar
>
I agree 100% with Ralph. I know how youn's guys LOVE the sound of a Harley
and would divorce the wife before the Harley, but the 447 is a very powerful
machine that will give you more than enough power for your Firestar or
Firefly to the extent that you cannot hold it back on the ground....I have
never been able to open the throttle all the way on the ground without losing
control of the "stopped" airplane.
Come to think of it, I even remember accidently caving in an aluminum wall
with my measely 35 HP Cuyunna engine once when I had it mounted on my
Pterodactyl. In this day and age, Paul, I really doubt if you can say that
power is a problem. Reliability might be, if you don't practice off field
landings....don't forget, you are dealing with a 3rd dimension here......up.
If not prepared, the "uppness" can kill you because it is convertible to
speed and we all know what that can do.
George Randolph
Firestar driver from Akron
ps. don't think I don't know the creativity and joy of freedom of thought
that you are going through, however, as I like to invent too even
to the extent that I wrote my own. patent for a toy.
pps the first aircraft engine weighed 200# with exhaust and mounting and put
out 12 Hp
Today, the 447 weighs around 65# and puts out 42 HP....are we talkin
progress here, or what?
ppps since uppness is THE premium in flying, THE enemy is weight...not like
on a motorcycle where friction/weight is a premium, ie friend.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "info" <info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com> |
| Subject: | Eliminating scalloping, or "troughing" on the wings |
Hi gang,
We have a good technique to all but eliminate the "troughing" or scalloping effect
on the wing leading edge area. (or if you want a lot of it, we can tell you
how to get it too). This is done by a very simple heat shrinking sequence.
Steve Green and several others tried this technique and were very happy with it.
Give us a call (before you glue the fabric on) and we'll walk you through it.
Thanks,
Jim & Dondi Miller
Aircraft Technical Support, Inc.
Poly-Fiber & Ceconite Distributors
(Toll Free) (877) 877-3334
Web Site: www.poly-fiber.com
E-mail: info(at)aircrafttechsupport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engines n uppness |
>George Randolph
>Firestar driver from Akron
>
>ps. don't think I don't know the creativity and joy of freedom of thought
>that you are going through, however, as I like to invent too even
>to the extent that I wrote my own. patent for a toy.
>pps the first aircraft engine weighed 200# with exhaust and mounting and put
>out 12 Hp
> Today, the 447 weighs around 65# and puts out 42 HP....are we talkin
>progress here, or what?
>ppps since uppness is THE premium in flying, THE enemy is weight...not like
>on a motorcycle where friction/weight is a premium, ie friend.
>
George,
Let's be fair about this. The 447 dressed with carburetor, cooling fan and shrouds,
and exhaust system weighs considerable more than 65 pounds.
I am pleased that someone loves Rotax engines, because this love enabled me to
sell my 447. I am very happy to go to a replacement engine that weighs the same
as the dressed 447, which includes electric starter and battery, uses much
less gas, puts out more power, and a muffler so quiet that I do not have to turn
on my ANR headset, idles below 2000 rpm without complaint or vibration, and
follows the throttle without hesitation and holds a constant rpm setting in level
flight. This is progress. If the 447 had acted this way, I would not have
changed.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
> It isn't the fabric rivets alone that holds the covering on the ribs,
> it's the polybrush too.
> Ralph
Hi Ralph/Gents:
Correct me if I am wrong.
There usually is some adhesion of the fabric to
the ribs with what Polybrush weeps through the
fabric. But don't bet your buns on preventing the
fabric from billowing should the fabric rivets
fail. That little bit of polybrush won't hold it.
The way I understand this stuff is the strength
comes from cohesion of fabric cemented to fabric
with Polytak and Polybrush, depending on what the
application is. We don't get cohesion from
cementing the fabric to the airframe alone.
That's called adhesion. I guess if you wrapped
more than a complete wrap around a tube and
cemented it on itself it would be cohesion.
I have never seen fabric rivets fail, but I have
seen a case of rib stitching fail on several
inboard ribs, both left and right wing panels, on
a Kolb Sling Shot. Also discovered this problem
while flying slightly above and to the rear of the
Sling Shot. The air stream really pulls the
fabric up and away from the wing rib structure.
So, do a good job covering and fastening your
fabric to those little ribs.
Losing the top fabric on a wing is disastrous.
Saw this happen to a new Great Lakes during the
airshow at Sun and Fun many years ago. Failure
was advertised by a tremendous explosion as the
fabric departed the wing. Aircraft was at aprx'ly
500 feet. Pilot flew it due west of Lakeland
Airport until he was in a relatively uninhabited
area, then jumped with his emergency parachute.
Broke a leg or ankle, but was otherwise none the
worse for wear. He was fortunate enough to be
able to hold the airplane straight and level with
full left aileron. The Great Lakes was borrowed
from the owner to do the airshow. Oops!
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Eliminating scalloping, or "troughing" on the wings |
> We have a good technique to all but eliminate the "troughing" or scalloping effect
on the wing leading edge area.
> Jim & Dondi Miller
Jim/Dondi/Gents/Ladies/and everybody else:
Homer Kolb liked the shape of the covered Kolb
wing sections. If he didn't he would have stuck a
sheet metal leading edge on it.
Again, my understanding, for what it is worth and
that ain't much, was that the scalloping effect
helped keep the outboard 5 feet or so of the wings
from stalling.
I made no overt attempt to keep my wing fabric
from being pulled down between the ribs except in
the technique I use to heat shrink the fabric.
Maybe you can guess how much fun it was to recover
a wing after 8 years and try to shrink the fabric
to match the scalloping on the old wing.
Something to think about. Especially when one
hasn't done any fabric work in 8 years.
I usually start shrinking at the inboard rib
cordwise and out at the bow tip. I pull the
fabric pretty good with the iron to initially pull
the fabric span wise. Then follow the directions
in the manual.
I kinda like the scalloping effect. Looks classic
to me and it works great in the air too.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
> Hi Ralph/Gents:
>
> Correct me if I am wrong.
>
> There usually is some adhesion of the fabric to
> the ribs with what Polybrush weeps through the
> fabric. But don't bet your buns on preventing the
> fabric from billowing should the fabric rivets
> fail. That little bit of polybrush won't hold it.
>snip>
> john h
John, I think it's a combination of the aluminum rivets and the glue that
hold it together. You are right about the Polybrush not having cohesive
strength between fabric and metal, but it does hold it tight enough so
the rivets don't pull out. What does Jim & Dondi Miller have to say about
this? I don't understand how rib stitching can rip apart like that
example you mentioned. It's pretty strong isn't it? What about the
fabric covered tail sections of the B-29 and other old fighters? Were
they riveted or rib stitched?
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
> I don't understand how rib stitching can rip apart like that
> example you mentioned. It's pretty strong isn't it? What about the
> fabric covered tail sections of the B-29 and other old fighters? Were
> they riveted or rib stitched?
>
> Ralph
Ralph/Gang:
Rib stitching is strong and was around probably
long before anyone dreamed up fabric rivets. I
think the problem lies with a incorrectly tied
knot or some problem that causes a failure in one
place and then like dominoes goes up the rib. Rib
stitching is done with a continuous piece of
thread/line/cord, whatever you call it. Maybe the
Kolb Sling Shot was not done correctly. I don't
know. The Great Lake Biplane fabric seperated for
I know not why also. :-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwight.Kottke(at)hti.htch.com |
12/16/2002 05:11:59 PM,
Serialize complete at 12/16/2002 05:11:59 PM,
Itemize by SMTP Server on HUDOMGW1/HTI(Release 5.0.11 |July 24, 2002)
at
12/16/2002 05:12:33 PM,
Serialize by Router on HUDOMGW1/HTI(Release 5.0.11 |July 24, 2002) at
12/16/2002
05:12:53 PM,
Serialize complete at 12/16/2002 05:12:53 PM
I know this topic has been addressed in the past, but it bears repeating.
I seeded a new 500 foot landing strip on my farm and have been flying into
it all summer. This weekend I rolled out my Firestar, did the pre-flight,
warmed her up and taxied to my runway. I powered up and just as I was
about to lift off a violent vibration began. I was afraid the nose cone
was coming off it shook so bad. I immediately returned and did another
extensive check and found nothing. So I decided to go up again. This
time as I lifted off with vibration again, I looked down at my wheels and
they where shacking in every direction imaginable. Of course as they
slowed down and stopped , so did the vibration. The rest of the flight
was perfect. I am assuming in the summer with soft grass and soft dirt,
the vibration was absorbed. Now with the ground frozen the vibration goes
right up the axle. The moral of this story is:
Get them damn wheelbarrow bearings the heck out of your wheels!
The Flying Farmer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
> Get them damn wheelbarrow bearings the heck out of your wheels!
>
> The Flying Farmer
Dwight/Gang:
Probably not bearings but the tires you are
using. Wheelbarrow and lawn tractor tires are not
trued and balanced after they come out of the
mold. Also could have been caused by the airplane
sitting for a long period of time in one spot.
They get flat sided, especially if you live in
Yankee Land or someplace where it really gets
cold.
I used to tough the heel brakes just after take
off to stop the vibs and regain my vision. Now,
with cheap aircraft tires, I no longer have a
problem. Before I got the Air Tracs I used a
pound of lead to try and balance the 800X6 tractor
tires.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engines n uppness |
In a message dated 12/16/02 2:27:40 PM Eastern Standard Time, jbhart(at)ldd.net
writes:
> George,
>
> Let's be fair about this. The 447 dressed with carburetor, cooling fan and
> shrouds, and exhaust system weighs considerable more than 65 pounds.
>
> I am pleased that someone loves Rotax engines, because this love enabled me
> to sell my 447. I am very happy to go to a replacement engine that weighs
> the same as the dressed 447, which includes electric starter and battery,
> uses much less gas, puts out more power, and a muffler so quiet that I do
> not have to turn on my ANR headset, idles below 2000 rpm without complaint
> or vibration, and follows the throttle without hesitation and holds a
> constant rpm setting in level flight. This is progress. If the 447 had
> acted this way, I would not have changed.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
>
> Jack &Louise Hart
>
Hey Jack! I never said the 447 was the ultimate engine...only that it
compared rediculessly great compared with the early aviation engines. If
yours puts out more power at the same weight, uses less gas to do it, uses a
better muffler (not a resonator that pulls more hp?) , idles at less than
2000 rpm, then I need to look into it too, provided it has a good track
record. My 447 also follows the throttle without hesitation and holds a
constant rpm in level flight. As far as the weight is concerned, you're
probably correct as I was just guessing from '92 when I built it and I was
much stronger then. :-) What engine do you use on your firestar?
George Randolph
Firestar driver from Akron, Oh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>
> > I don't understand how rib stitching can rip apart like that
> > example you mentioned. It's pretty strong isn't it? What about the
> > fabric covered tail sections of the B-29 and other old fighters? Were
> > they riveted or rib stitched?
I think the problem with rib stitching is that we are trying to do it
on a round tube. This will be weaker than on a flat surface as there is
less area between the needle holes and less rib material to pull down onto.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
> I think the problem with rib stitching is that we are trying to do it
> on a round tube. This will be weaker than on a flat surface as there is
> less area between the needle holes and less rib material to pull down onto.
Woody
Woody/Ralph/Gents:
Don't you think the reinforcing tape is
sufficiently strong enough to get the job done?
That tape is pretty tuff!!!
I tdhink Richard Pike rib stitched his MK III or
one of his airplanes.
I rib stitched a good bit of the longerons on the
rear of my MK III fuselage. 90% of it was blind
stitching. A Hell of a way to learn rib
stitching. Never had any problem with any of that
letting go and most of that area in very near the
prop.
I think the reason we use fabric rivets rather
than rib stitching is because if is an easier,
quicker, more durable system for our purposes. I
had much rather rivet than stitch.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Second Chanz Chute |
When Second Chanz went out of business, all the owners were sort of just hung
out there without much support. What I was wondering is , am I one of only a
handfull who are using their system yet ,or are there others? My MK3 was
the prototype for their soft pack set up in the gap seal. John Dunham had my
unit on display at Sun & Fun. I have been flying with mine since 95. Every 3
yrs I take it to a rigger, who inspects the chute and repacks it. Should I
have any concern as to whether or not the rocket will work? I guess what I'm
asking is, should I be relying on this older system, leave it in as a back up
that "may work", or take it out and scrap it?
With all the knowledge and experience of list members, I will see what your
responce is and decide from there.
Fly Safe
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Second Chanz Chute |
> Should I
> have any concern as to whether or not the rocket will work?
> Bob Griffin
Bob/Gang:
Is your system solid fuel or air deployed?
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Second Chanz Chute |
I am still using mine, and as long as the nitrogen cylinder's pressure
gauge stays where it has been since I bought it, I can't see why it
wouldn't still be ready to go. I will be having mine repacked this year also.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>When Second Chanz went out of business, all the owners were sort of just hung
>out there without much support. What I was wondering is , am I one of only a
>handfull who are using their system yet ,or are there others? My MK3 was
>the prototype for their soft pack set up in the gap seal. John Dunham had my
>unit on display at Sun & Fun. I have been flying with mine since 95. Every 3
>yrs I take it to a rigger, who inspects the chute and repacks it. Should I
>have any concern as to whether or not the rocket will work? I guess what I'm
>asking is, should I be relying on this older system, leave it in as a back up
>that "may work", or take it out and scrap it?
> With all the knowledge and experience of list members, I will see what your
>responce is and decide from there.
>Fly Safe
>Bob Griffin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Second Chanz Chute |
Who repacks them? I also have a Second Chanz with the Nitrogen cylinder .
Seems like we should be able to recharge the cylinder also, though mine
still reads the same as new.
>
> I am still using mine, and as long as the nitrogen cylinder's pressure
> gauge stays where it has been since I bought it, I can't see why it
> wouldn't still be ready to go. I will be having mine repacked this year
also.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
| Subject: | engines n uppness |
> George,
>
> Let's be fair about this. The 447 dressed with carburetor, cooling
fan and
> shrouds, and exhaust system weighs considerable more than 65 pounds.
>
> I am pleased that someone loves Rotax engines, because this love
enabled me
> to sell my 447. I am very happy to go to a replacement engine that
weighs
> the same as the dressed 447, which includes electric starter and
battery,
> uses much less gas, puts out more power, and a muffler so quiet that I
do
> not have to turn on my ANR headset, idles below 2000 rpm without
complaint
> or vibration, and follows the throttle without hesitation and holds a
> constant rpm setting in level flight. This is progress. If the 447
had
> acted this way, I would not have changed.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
>
> Jack &Louise Hart
>
Hey Jack! I never said the 447 was the ultimate engine...only that it
compared rediculessly great compared with the early aviation engines. If
yours puts out more power at the same weight, uses less gas to do it,
uses a
better muffler (not a resonator that pulls more hp?) , idles at less
than
2000 rpm, then I need to look into it too, provided it has a good track
record. My 447 also follows the throttle without hesitation and holds a
constant rpm in level flight. As far as the weight is concerned, you're
probably correct as I was just guessing from '92 when I built it and I
was
much stronger then. :-) What engine do you use on your firestar?
George Randolph
Firestar driver from Akron, Oh
One that seized very early in it's life due to some "teething" problems
with a new installation. I don't want to sound critical of Jack cause
he is an exception...by all appearances he is a guy who loves to
experiment more than fly and obviously has the technological know-how to
diagnose problems and come up with solutions and MORE IMPORTANTLY has
the time and patience to do it. Buuuuuutttttt I say this for the
"newbies" out there that are considering a project and thinking about
going against the "herd" and putting an "alternative engine" on their
planes...you WILL take considerably longer to build the plane and it
WILL take considerably longer to get it right. If you want to fly,
DON'T be a trailblazer. If you enjoy tinkering and experimenting more
than flying, then get you an alternative engine and have at it.
Look at our list "punching bag" Big Lar...if he wasn't so darned
creative, he'd have been flying a long time ago... ;-)
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
P.S. If my 503 had been any quicker to accelerate/decelerate when I
moved the throttle...it would have had to read my mind to get a head
start on me...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Armstrong" <cen33475(at)centurytel.net> |
Having been working with powersport aviation for 5 years developing an
aircraft engine I can tell you that it isnt easy and it is expensive. Our
product is 215 hp so it is quite a bit more in every way then an engine for
a kolb but developing a sound solution at 50 or 100 hp will be no cake walk
either. THe main thing that is difficult is that for aviation engines
weight is such a significant factorm that unless it is one of the prime
considerations through out the design of the engine the resultant package
will be so heavy as to make all the effort in the world a waste of time.
The rotax 2 strokes are not bad engines and have a great compromise between
weight and reliability. If Rotax would put a good fuel injection system on
them you would probably never hear of engine seasures... Still dont know why
they havven't done that. till someone with lots and lots of money starts
an engine from scratch I think they are going to be the best solution for
us. Mark Bierle's radial cam engine and the engine being developed for the
skyscooter both have great promise, but do they have the financial backing
they need to get them out the door, and take a decent chunck of the fairly
small market so that they can be long term players in the business? to do
that is around a half million dollar outlay of capital. That isnt a WAG
either. it is based on direct experiance at doing this.
by the way anybody with some money you want to invest in an aviation
business can send it my way! You want to know how to make a million in
aviation? Start with 2 million.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | engines n uppness |
>
>One that seized very early in it's life due to some "teething" problems
>with a new installation. I don't want to sound critical of Jack cause
>he is an exception...by all appearances he is a guy who loves to
>experiment more than fly and obviously has the technological know-how to
>diagnose problems and come up with solutions and MORE IMPORTANTLY has
>the time and patience to do it. Buuuuuutttttt I say this for the
>"newbies" out there that are considering a project and thinking about
>going against the "herd" and putting an "alternative engine" on their
>planes...you WILL take considerably longer to build the plane and it
>WILL take considerably longer to get it right. If you want to fly,
>DON'T be a trailblazer. If you enjoy tinkering and experimenting more
>than flying, then get you an alternative engine and have at it.
>
>Look at our list "punching bag" Big Lar...if he wasn't so darned
>creative, he'd have been flying a long time ago... ;-)
>
>Jeremy Casey
>jrcasey(at)ldl.net
>
Jeremy,
You are correct about the time required, but not about the enjoyment. The purpose
of "tinkering and experimenting" is to increase flying enjoyment. I call
the FireFly upgrade process wart removal, and over the years I have been removing
one wart at a time. I built the FireFly to the plans and I discovered first
that brakes were a requirement to make me feel comfortable taxiing around other
planes. Then I discovered that the ailerons were too heavy for middle of
the day or/and cross country flight so I went from 15 to 9 inch chord ailerons
and changed push rod location to balance out aileron forces. Added vortex generators
to reduce roll twitchyness, and to give better low speed lift after
a nose over on grass. Added in cockpit trims for roll and pitch to reduce the
energy required to fly. Added strobes and bright nose light to let others know
that a stealthy FireFly was in the pattern. At this point I had a FireFly
that was a delight to fly, but for only short periods of time due to one last
huge wart - high fuel consumption rates.
I know that Part 103 was not implemented with the idea of flying ultra light vehicles
flying across country. But if one can meet Part 103 requirements and still
fly across country what would be the harm? I wanted to increase the enjoyment
by being able to fly more than an hour and fifteen minutes with out worrying
about running out of gas. This lead to the engine change and it looks like
it is going to work out well, but it is much too early to tell.
For the most part, I believe in small incremental change because it lets you continue
(enjoy) to fly during the whole process of improvement or experimentation
and greatly reduces the chance for unexpected events. Each time you get it
to fly a little better with less energy on your part the more enjoyable the flight
becomes. Right now I have only one more change to make and that is to add
fairings to the struts and aileron push rod tubes. This should improve range
and speed a little.
I was a "newbie" just three/four years ago, but I do have an advantage that I am
a retired "newbie" and this FireFly has been a lot of fun. I started the web
site so that my children who live several states away could be kept abreast
of the FireFly progress. Because of this mailing list, it has been a way to show
how one FireFly builder has done it. Has it been worth all the effort? Yes!
I don't miss the sore shoulder from heavy ailerons and non electric start,
and the I like the quietness and low fuel consumption rates of the new engine.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
| Subject: | engines n uppness |
>
Jeremy,
You are correct about the time required, but not about the enjoyment.
The purpose of "tinkering and experimenting" is to increase flying
enjoyment. I call the FireFly upgrade process wart removal, and over
the years I have been removing one wart at a time. I built the FireFly
to the plans and I discovered first that brakes were a requirement to
make me feel comfortable taxiing around other planes. Then I discovered
that the ailerons were too heavy for middle of the day or/and cross
country flight so I went from 15 to 9 inch chord ailerons and changed
push rod location to balance out aileron forces. Added vortex
generators to reduce roll twitchyness, and to give better low speed lift
after a nose over on grass. Added in cockpit trims for roll and pitch
to reduce the energy required to fly. Added strobes and bright nose
light to let others know that a stealthy FireFly was in the pattern. At
this point I had a FireFly that was a delight to fly, but for only short
period!
s of time due to one last huge wart - high fuel consumption rates.
I know that Part 103 was not implemented with the idea of flying ultra
light vehicles flying across country. But if one can meet Part 103
requirements and still fly across country what would be the harm? I
wanted to increase the enjoyment by being able to fly more than an hour
and fifteen minutes with out worrying about running out of gas. This
lead to the engine change and it looks like it is going to work out
well, but it is much too early to tell.
For the most part, I believe in small incremental change because it lets
you continue (enjoy) to fly during the whole process of improvement or
experimentation and greatly reduces the chance for unexpected events.
Each time you get it to fly a little better with less energy on your
part the more enjoyable the flight becomes. Right now I have only one
more change to make and that is to add fairings to the struts and
aileron push rod tubes. This should improve range and speed a little.
I was a "newbie" just three/four years ago, but I do have an advantage
that I am a retired "newbie" and this FireFly has been a lot of fun. I
started the web site so that my children who live several states away
could be kept abreast of the FireFly progress. Because of this mailing
list, it has been a way to show how one FireFly builder has done it.
Has it been worth all the effort? Yes! I don't miss the sore shoulder
from heavy ailerons and non electric start, and the I like the quietness
and low fuel consumption rates of the new engine.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Fair enough...I understand the enjoyment thing...kinda misspoke that
one. Main point I was trying to get across was the time issue. I
haven't read every word of your website, but I figured you were blessed
with a retirement... ;-) (I want one too!!!) cause I know the effort
that went into what you've done to that Firefly was at least as costly
in time as it was in money and know-how. I made 3 simple (?) changes to
my Mark 3 project (new seats, Full Lotus float mounts, and larger fuel
tank) and I spent more time designing and fab'ing those changes than
building the rest of the plane...
Bottom line... if you want to fly, then build it to the plans, go with a
"someone's been there already" engine and keep the "creativity" to a
minimum. THEN..... put your "creative" juices to work making
improvements (like Rev. Pike, Jack, and countless others...) otherwise
if you try to add every little idea as your building it...you'll never
finish it (at least not till retirement ;-) )
Off Soapbox...
Jeremy Casey
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
| Subject: | Mark 3 project sold... |
I thought I'd drop a note to let the few that know me and my little M3
project know that it will soon have a new owner. After the birth of my
second child and the realization that time was now at an ultra-premium
and I would be watching this child graduate high school before I
finished my Kolb, I have sold it to someone that will finish it and put
it to good use. I am definitely a "flyer" more than a "builder" and
would rather spend the 2 or 3 hours a week that are free, flying instead
of building. I have made a deal on a RANS S7 that will be my little red
wagon for awhile and hope to see some of you fellas at some fly-ins
soon. (Will definitely be at Sun-n-Fun)
I am going to hang around on this list (if for no other reason, to see
if Big Lar ever finishes his... ;-0 )
Fly safe...
Jeremy Casey
BCD Drafting, Inc.
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Jones" <kevin-jones(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engines n uppness |
I missed what went before. What engine did you get that's so much better
than the 447?
kj
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: engines n uppness
>
>
> > George,
> >
> > Let's be fair about this. The 447 dressed with carburetor, cooling
> fan and
> > shrouds, and exhaust system weighs considerable more than 65 pounds.
> >
> > I am pleased that someone loves Rotax engines, because this love
> enabled me
> > to sell my 447. I am very happy to go to a replacement engine that
> weighs
> > the same as the dressed 447, which includes electric starter and
> battery,
> > uses much less gas, puts out more power, and a muffler so quiet that I
> do
> > not have to turn on my ANR headset, idles below 2000 rpm without
> complaint
> > or vibration, and follows the throttle without hesitation and holds a
> > constant rpm setting in level flight. This is progress. If the 447
> had
> > acted this way, I would not have changed.
> >
> > Jack B. Hart FF004
> > Jackson, MO
> >
> >
> > Jack &Louise Hart
> >
> Hey Jack! I never said the 447 was the ultimate engine...only that it
> compared rediculessly great compared with the early aviation engines. If
>
> yours puts out more power at the same weight, uses less gas to do it,
> uses a
> better muffler (not a resonator that pulls more hp?) , idles at less
> than
> 2000 rpm, then I need to look into it too, provided it has a good track
>
> record. My 447 also follows the throttle without hesitation and holds a
> constant rpm in level flight. As far as the weight is concerned, you're
>
> probably correct as I was just guessing from '92 when I built it and I
> was
> much stronger then. :-) What engine do you use on your firestar?
>
> George Randolph
> Firestar driver from Akron, Oh
>
>
>
> One that seized very early in it's life due to some "teething" problems
> with a new installation. I don't want to sound critical of Jack cause
> he is an exception...by all appearances he is a guy who loves to
> experiment more than fly and obviously has the technological know-how to
> diagnose problems and come up with solutions and MORE IMPORTANTLY has
> the time and patience to do it. Buuuuuutttttt I say this for the
> "newbies" out there that are considering a project and thinking about
> going against the "herd" and putting an "alternative engine" on their
> planes...you WILL take considerably longer to build the plane and it
> WILL take considerably longer to get it right. If you want to fly,
> DON'T be a trailblazer. If you enjoy tinkering and experimenting more
> than flying, then get you an alternative engine and have at it.
>
> Look at our list "punching bag" Big Lar...if he wasn't so darned
> creative, he'd have been flying a long time ago... ;-)
>
> Jeremy Casey
> jrcasey(at)ldl.net
>
> P.S. If my 503 had been any quicker to accelerate/decelerate when I
> moved the throttle...it would have had to read my mind to get a head
> start on me...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
John & gang. The unit I am using and have questions about has a
solid fuel rocket
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Second Chantz |
> John & gang. The unit I am using and have questions about has a
> solid fuel rocket
> Bob Griffin
Bob/Gents:
Yep, I also have one, solid fuel, manufactured in
1992. It is on the sun porch in a box gathering
dust.
No way to do a "go/no go" test on them. Not much
comfort in that.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Peterson Landscape" <b1bookie(at)purenet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Second Chantz |
Airgriff2(at)aol.com writes:
>
> John & gang. The unit I am using and have questions about has a
> solid fuel rocket
> Bob Griffin
>
> Bob.........several months ago I reported that a friend of mine at the airport
had his plane parked next to several other planes when his solid fuel rocket
went off deploying the parachute. It sounded like a shot gun, and luckly no
one was in the direction of deployment. This could have gone off while he was
flying and would probably have killed him as the plane was a Quicksilver where
the cable gets close to the prop. This was a Second Chantz. I don't know if
anyone else on the list has knowledge of this happening to any one else but
I wanted to imform you of the possible problem. Hope this helps........Bill
>
>
>
>
Bill Peterson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sabean <sabean(at)ns.sympatico.ca> |
Followed the gascolator thread from last week with interest as I am in
the process of installing the fuel system on my Mk111Xtra. Was wondering
how effective it would be when using a top fed system as per the Kolb
plans.
Any comments?
Thanks
Tom Sabean
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Murphy" <geomurphy(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Second Chanz Chute |
A good friend of mine deployed a Second Chance Chute a number of years ago
when his Firestar's leading edge of his wing folded up. It deployed alright
but his bridal cable snapped. My friend did not have that second chance ---
he died in the crash that day. Scrap it before someone tries to use it.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Airgriff2(at)aol.com
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Second Chanz Chute
When Second Chanz went out of business, all the owners were sort of just
hung
out there without much support. What I was wondering is , am I one of only a
handfull who are using their system yet ,or are there others? My MK3 was
the prototype for their soft pack set up in the gap seal. John Dunham had my
unit on display at Sun & Fun. I have been flying with mine since 95. Every 3
yrs I take it to a rigger, who inspects the chute and repacks it. Should I
have any concern as to whether or not the rocket will work? I guess what I'm
asking is, should I be relying on this older system, leave it in as a back
up
that "may work", or take it out and scrap it?
With all the knowledge and experience of list members, I will see what
your
responce is and decide from there.
Fly Safe
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Second Chantz |
> > Bob.........several months ago I reported that a friend of mine at the airport
had his plane parked next to several other planes when his solid fuel rocket
went off deploying the parachute.
> Bill Peterson
Bil/Gents:
There is no way for a solid fuel rocket to ignite
unless someone has tampered with it, especially if
the safety pin is in the hole where it belongs.
There is a simple percussion igniter that won't
ignite unless the firing pin hits it. Same same
the percussion cap on a bullet.
Ballistic recovery systems don't fire on their on
accord any more than a center fire revolver or
center fire rifle.
That's my opinion for what it is worth, again not
much, but it is mine. :-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Second Chanz Chute |
> A good friend of mine deployed a Second Chance Chute a number of years ago
> when his Firestar's leading edge of his wing folded up. Scrap it before someone
tries to use it.
George Murphy
George/Gents:
If that was Aubrey Radford, his parachute, as I
understand it, was not equipped with a SS cable,
but a kevlar bridal. When the canopy deployed
successfully, the kevlar bridal routed itself
under the end of the engine mount that still had
the sharp edges when it was sheared. Kevlar is
extremely tough, but sharp steel and a lot of
weight create a tremendous impact on opening
shock. The kevlar bridal was cut and seperated.
Aubrey died in May or June 1990, two or three
months after I had my second save with my Jim
Handbury Hand Deployed Recovery System. This
system also used a kevlar bridal which compressed
the square steel wing/fuselage carry through,
ripped through small steel fuselage tubes and wing
structure. I also had a very similar routine when
deployed from my Ultrastar, same kevlar cable used
twice.
Aubrey flew hard aerobatics with the assistance of
aileron spades which in turn pushed the 5 main rib
wing to failure. He knew about my incident, but
chose to ignore the warning. I haven't, and it
has been nearly 13 years ago this March.
The Second Chantz recovery system uses a 3/8" SS
cable for the initially which is attached to a
kevlar bridal, the suspension lines and the
canopy. The current BRS system is same same.
If you have a recovery system, train yourself to
use it. When the time comes, don't forget you
have it. There will be no time to sit and think
about what to do next. Ask Dallas Sheppard. It
gets real busy real quick up there in those
situations.
The above is the best I can remember. If I am
wrong, please correct me.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Armstrong" <cen33475(at)centurytel.net> |
There is no way for a solid fuel rocket to ignite
unless someone has tampered with it, especially if
the safety pin is in the hole where it belongs.
There is a simple percussion igniter that won't
ignite unless the firing pin hits it. Same same
the percussion cap on a bullet.
Ballistic recovery systems don't fire on their on
accord any more than a center fire revolver or
center fire rifle
I had one of the first BRS systems back in 83. it was electrically fired,
not a firing pin type,and blasted out a slug whoose inertia pulled out the
chute. I know of one unintentional deployment, which resulted in the slug
being sent through a table, a persons thigh and calf and off the floor. my
system was replaced with a modified version free of charge shortly after
that, and then they came out with the solid rocket version. the old slug
versions were never a good idea by comparison, and the electrically fired
system was just plan dangerous.
topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Second Chantz |
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com>
> > John & gang. The unit I am using and have questions about has a
> > solid fuel rocket
> > Bob Griffin
>
> Bob/Gents:
>
> Yep, I also have one, solid fuel, manufactured in
> 1992. It is on the sun porch in a box gathering
> dust.
>
> No way to do a "go/no go" test on them. Not much
> comfort in that.
>
> john h
>
> I was told by a vendor that tha rocket motors have a virtually 100% fire
rate even after sitting for years past the expiration date on a barn shelf.
Personally, I can not verify a single motor mafunctionaing. They were built
by the military to operate in to scenarios. Anyone elses hear this talk?
Richard Swiderski
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Second Chantz |
the old slug
> versions were never a good idea by comparison, and the electrically fired
> system was just plan dangerous.
>
> topher
topher/Gents:
Don't remember the electrically fired systems. I
didn't get interested in ULs until about Aug
1983. Could not afford a ballistic recovery
system back then.
Hard to believe that folks actually marketed a
system with electrical firing system. Imagine
they were also susceptible to stray radio
transmissions, even high powered spark ignitions.
Extremely dangerous.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 12/17/02 8:40:05 PM, sabean(at)ns.sympatico.ca writes:
Followed the gascolator thread from last week with interest as I am in
the process of installing the fuel system on my Mk111Xtra. Was wondering
how effective it would be when using a top fed system as per the Kolb
plans.
Any comments?
Thanks
Tom Sabean>>
The only problem is that one can never get anything drained from the bottom
of the tank if the pickup is not on the very bottom. I used the original
method from the bottom with gromits and also added a gascolator which is
below the tanks. This way the tank always drains from the very bottom and
then goes into the gascolator which I drain with a curtis drain valve from
the bottom. Gets rid of any water.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
Why would it make any difference? The purpose of a gascolator is to give
the heavier water a place to settle and let the lighter gas continue on
down the pipe. The ideal place for a gascolator is the lowest point on the
fuel line between the tank and the carb (per Tony Bingelis) but anyplace to
let the water drop out is probably going to help.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Followed the gascolator thread from last week with interest as I am in
>the process of installing the fuel system on my Mk111Xtra. Was wondering
>how effective it would be when using a top fed system as per the Kolb
>plans.
>Any comments?
>
>Thanks
>Tom Sabean
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Second Chantz |
><swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
>
> >
> > I was told by a vendor that tha rocket motors have a virtually 100% fire
>rate even after sitting for years past the expiration date on a barn shelf.
>Personally, I can not verify a single motor mafunctionaing. They were built
>by the military to operate in to scenarios. Anyone elses hear this talk?
>
>Richard Swiderski
I fired one that was about 6 years old and had been sitting in a lake
for 24 hours - just to see what would happen.
It worked fine - BRS.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark 3 project sold... |
Hafta agree with you.............I'm about built out & would rather be
flying, but gotta finish now. Maybe I'll catch up with a few more of you
guys this year. SnF is a definite "For Sure." Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Mark 3 project sold...
>
> I thought I'd drop a note to let the few that know me and my little M3
> project know that it will soon have a new owner. After the birth of my
> second child and the realization that time was now at an ultra-premium
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Second Chantz |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
>
> topher/Gents:
>
> Don't remember the electrically fired systems. I
> didn't get interested in ULs until about Aug
> 1983. Could not afford a ballistic recovery
> system back then.
>
> Hard to believe that folks actually marketed a
> system with electrical firing system. Imagine
> they were also susceptible to stray radio
> transmissions, even high powered spark ignitions.
> Extremely dangerous.
>
> john h
John and others,
Many of the early ones had electronic detonation and had a tendency to
detonate with static electricity.
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cable connector |
In a message dated 12/17/02 10:51:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Timandjan(at)aol.com writes:
> I am building a heater box and need to afffix a push pull tube. What would
> work perfect for me is the little u channel piece the Firestar uses to
> attach
> the throttle cable to the throttle lever. The small piece that has a set
> screw uses to clamp down into the cable.
>
> Anybody have a extra one of these of know where I can get one??
>
>
From The New Kolb. Also, I was in a go-cart shop yesterday & they had some.
Shack
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Second Chantz |
Ralph,
Was there some kind of toggle or botton to set off the chutes with the
electronic detonation system or did it have a regular "T" type handle with a
safty pin like the percussion ignition ones? If they both look alike, how do
you tell which one you have? Hope that is not a stupid question but I have
only seen one type of these ( the one I own).
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
Kolbers,
There is a lot of money in Aviation...I know ...I put it there !
I have to agree with the thinking that changing to a different engine
is a monumental problem compared to something tried and true. Been there not
only with experimentals but standard category and restricted category types.
I salute you all but I have a theory that I never buy anything unless it's 5
years on the market with a good track record.....keeps me from being a "test"
pilot. If every body did what I believe we would all be waiting for the wheel
to be invented.
And that brings me to my project , the old Ultrastar relic { 18 years
old} I have begun rebuilding.....I will give you an update ..... I know some
of you are soured (understatement of the year} on the Cuyuna engines but I have
found a good engine ,reduction ,propellar combination for the US.... 2SI makes
a 2.5 to 1 cog belt drive {reasonably priced} that fits the old UL 202 as
well as the new 2SI engines... mate this with the 3 blade 50 inch diameter Warp
Drive ground adjustable and you get a good performing combo that eliminates
all the resonant vibes and gearbox clatter at lower rpm's. So far it has run
on a previously owned US about 100 hours with no problems.
I don't have any problems with making an airframe change as long as
it is well thought out and I don't use much SWAG ( scientific wild-ass guessing}.
The only thing I am changing is the landing gear and the fuselage forward
of the back of the seat. I already made a centerline stick with firefly type
front end that flew well. There is a picture in the archives if anybody is interested...it
was taken before the switch to the cog belt and 3 blade prop. I am
planning on changing the gear to fiberglass legs with steel sockets and getting
a bit more ground clearance although the last US was OK with the stock gear
but with 600x8 tires.
I hope to be flying by late spring with 2 other Ultrastars in the
area .A new guy to the list just contacted me and has a US that was delivered
by Homer...You out there AL ?
Ed in Western NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
I will be going to Oak Park, right outside of Detroit, over the holidays. Any Kolbs
nearby or interesting ultralight airports I could visit while there?
Jim
Mark III
Charlotte, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Armstrong" <cen33475(at)centurytel.net> |
Forgot to ask who manufactured your electric
system?
john h
that was the first thing that BRS came out with. Very quickly they went to
the mechanical system.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Armstrong" <cen33475(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: gascolators message of Tue, 17 Dec 2002 23:56:27 |
-0800
The gascolator actively removes the water and other junk from the fuel as it
goes past on the way to the carb. so it makes no differance where you draw
from, or even if the gascolator is the lowest part of the system, the
gascolator bowl is the low part of the gascolator and the water stops there.
if it is the low part of the system then the water can get there as it
settles out of the gas, which is a good idea and so that is how you should
build the system. if you have enough water in the fuel to completely fill
the gascolator bowl then the water will continue on to the carb, so a bigger
bowl is better. you drain the gascolator of contaminates and water before
each flight so you would have to have one big load of water to fill it up.
the new water separating filters also work extreamly well, and prevent any
possibility of water getting to the carb. they cost 150 and are probably
worth it if you leave your plane out in the rain.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Armstrong" <cen33475(at)centurytel.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Second Chantz
Ralph,
Was there some kind of toggle or botton to set off the chutes with the
electronic detonation system or did it have a regular "T" type handle with a
safty pin like the percussion ignition ones? If they both look alike, how
do
you tell which one you have? Hope that is not a stupid question but I have
only seen one type of these ( the one I own).
Steve
on the BRS there was a little black box with batteries and some LEDs and a
button to press to test the system. the fire handle was a t-handle but it
simply pulled a mini headset type plug out of a jack, breaking a circuit
that fired the system.
The instructions said to treat it like a loaded gun at all times, and we
did, it scared the crap out of me to press the test button.
topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net> |
From Woody's quote:
"I did mine a bit different from the book. I attached the hinges
permanently first and then when I covered I put little slots in the fabric
where the hinge ears stick out. I think it looks a lot better than sticking
the hinges on the outside of the fabric. It is a fast and simple operation
to make those little slits as long as you have a new blade in your cutting
knife. You will probably change the fabric before the hinges "
This sounds good. Any problem with checking the security of the
rivets/hinges on your
pre-flight with this configuration?
Thanks,
Clay Stuart
Mark IIIXtra S/N21
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | gascolator vs top-fed tanks |
| From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
12/18/2002 01:02:31 PM
>From: tom sabean <sabean(at)ns.sympatico.ca>
>Subject: Kolb-List: Gascolator
>Followed the gascolator thread from last week with interest as I am in
>the process of installing the fuel system on my Mk111Xtra. Was wondering
>how effective it would be when using a top fed system as per the Kolb
>plans.
>Any comments?
>Thanks
>Tom Sabean
Tom, if you are talking about the stock Kolb top fed solution as I built it
per the plans, with the fuel fittings drilled thru holes in the TOP OF THE
TANKS, and dip tubes running down into the fuel, I will give you an
opinion. The above stock solution routes the dip tibes to within 1/2 to
3/4 inch from the bottom of the tanks, giving you a water trap of about a
half gallon total in the bottom of the two tanks. This initially works
quite well (higher capacity for water than any gascolator) to keep the fuel
to the carbs free of the seperated water. However, sooner or later you
will want to get the suspected water off the bottom of the tanks. To clean
the tank bottoms of the inevitable water and crud, make yourself a "vacuum"
from a squeeze primer, some 6-8 feet of fuel hose, and a 2 foot pc of
copper tube or similar on the suction end. When the tanks are low anyway
(for visibility reasons), stick the copper dip tube into the tank thru the
fill cap hole and pump the squeeze primer till fuel flows out, routing it
to a gas can. If you can see down into the tank, look in there and steer
the copper dip tube around to each corner, collecting the crud and
sediment, all the while you will be collecting water even if you can't see
it. Do both tanks, taking out a gallon or so. Now you are water free. Do
this every few fill-ups. Use the fuel you remove in your car or lawn
mower.
If you had also installed a gascolator, water removal from the gascolator
would be easy and quick, simply open the valve and examine the contents.
BUT you would still have some unknown quantity of water possibly collecting
in the bottom of your tanks, unless you use the dangling pickup screens on
the ends of your dip tubes. Using these danglers or any tank pickup which
comes off the bottom of the tank instead of the top practically ensures you
will be able to pick up the water off the bottom of the tanks, so it
requires a gascolator. Your choice.
I don't run a seperate gascolator, I use the tanks as described above,
top mounted pickup tubes 3/4 inch from bottom, vacuum clean every few
tanks. I fly in Minnesota, very high humidity. Have not had any problems.
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Second Chantz |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
>
> Ralph,
>
> Was there some kind of toggle or botton to set off the chutes with
> the
> electronic detonation system or did it have a regular "T" type
> handle with a
> safty pin like the percussion ignition ones? If they both look
> alike, how do
> you tell which one you have? Hope that is not a stupid question but
> I have
> only seen one type of these ( the one I own).
>
> Steve
Steve,
I'm almost positive the electronic firing parachutes had the T-handle.
I'm not an expert on this so you might ask the BRS people about it.
Ralph
Original Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
> -- Kolb-List message posted by: "Clay Stuart"
tcstuart(at)adelphia.net
>
> From Woody's quote:
>
> "I did mine a bit different from the book. I attached the hinges
> permanently first and then when I covered I put little slots in the
fabric
> where the hinge ears stick out. I think it looks a lot better than
sticking
> the hinges on the outside of the fabric. It is a fast and simple
operation
> to make those little slits as long as you have a new blade in your
cutting
> knife. You will probably change the fabric before the hinges "
>
Sounds like a good idea. I would think that it would also re-enforce
the hinges and give the rivets a bit more protection from the
elements.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DCBooth <JetDr2(at)ATTGLOBAL.NET> |
| Subject: | Re: 912S Complete engine package for Kolb |
John Russell wrote:
>
> I have a Kolb SlingShot that I have considered parting out in units.
>
> Engine package would include-912S with 126 hours, Titan stainless exhaust,
> 4" custom prop
> extention with 3 blade 72" warp prop and spinner, rotax oil cooler and
> coolant radiater, all throttle and choke cables, EIS with harness with
> remote switches, basically everything needed in an installation on a Kolb.
>
> BRS top mount cannister, I will need to check on ratings, 2 years old.
>
> Complete airframe, beautifully built and never damaged, aerothane finish,
> tundra tired, matco brakes, 6" swivel tail wheel.
>
> Every thing is in excellent shape and well maintained.
>
> If by chance there is an interest you can contact me off list at
> jr(at)rometool.com
>
Tell me more about the airframe and send some pics if possible..........
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Second Chantz |
When i went to BRS about a year ago i had a system that needed a repack, update
to
the new model 5 and a repack... i asked them if i could use the old rocket and
just go
with the repack and update but they said the rocket might not work being it was
out of
date and old.... they told me when they design rocket fuel they can manufacture
it to
become stable or unstable for x number of years....if you want a rocket to last
25 years
or so you just add a certain ingredient to do so....although they mentioned it
would
cost thousands more so it would not be practical to do so in this market. yes
i was in
sales too and they get you one way or another.... they got me for $1469.00 for
the
repack,update and new rocket....and a little piece of mind...and i would pay anything
for
that.
Gary r. voigt
p.s. the lakes were frozen and now are melting and the grass greened up a little
today because of the rain.
Richard Swiderski wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com>
> > > John & gang. The unit I am using and have questions about has a
> > > solid fuel rocket
> > > Bob Griffin
> >
> > Bob/Gents:
> >
> > Yep, I also have one, solid fuel, manufactured in
> > 1992. It is on the sun porch in a box gathering
> > dust.
> >
> > No way to do a "go/no go" test on them. Not much
> > comfort in that.
> >
> > john h
> >
> > I was told by a vendor that tha rocket motors have a virtually 100% fire
> rate even after sitting for years past the expiration date on a barn shelf.
> Personally, I can not verify a single motor mafunctionaing. They were built
> by the military to operate in to scenarios. Anyone elses hear this talk?
>
> Richard Swiderski
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Second Chantz |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Gary,
I did 9 takeoffs and landings out on Cooks Bay this year so far. The ice
will be good in January, don't worry. Winter is not over yet.
Ralph
writes:
>
>
> When i went to BRS about a year ago i had a system that needed
> a repack, update to
> the new model 5 and a repack... i asked them if i could use the old
> rocket and just go
> with the repack and update but they said the rocket might not work
> being it was out of
> date and old.... they told me when they design rocket fuel they can
> manufacture it to
> become stable or unstable for x number of years....if you want a
> rocket to last 25 years
> or so you just add a certain ingredient to do so....although they
> mentioned it would
> cost thousands more so it would not be practical to do so in this
> market. yes i was in
> sales too and they get you one way or another.... they got me for
> $1469.00 for the
> repack,update and new rocket....and a little piece of mind...and i
> would pay anything for
> that.
>
> Gary r. voigt
> p.s. the lakes were frozen and now are melting and the grass
> greened up a little
> today because of the rain.
>
> Richard Swiderski wrote:
>
> <swiderski@advanced-connect.net>
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com>
> > > > John & gang. The unit I am using and have questions
> about has a
> > > > solid fuel rocket
> > > > Bob Griffin
> > >
> > > Bob/Gents:
> > >
> > > Yep, I also have one, solid fuel, manufactured in
> > > 1992. It is on the sun porch in a box gathering
> > > dust.
> > >
> > > No way to do a "go/no go" test on them. Not much
> > > comfort in that.
> > >
> > > john h
> > >
> > > I was told by a vendor that tha rocket motors have a virtually
> 100% fire
> > rate even after sitting for years past the expiration date on a
> barn shelf.
> > Personally, I can not verify a single motor mafunctionaing. They
> were built
> > by the military to operate in to scenarios. Anyone elses hear this
> talk?
> >
> > Richard Swiderski
> >
>
>
>
> _->
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
> Interesting that your hinge rivets have loosened.
Snuffy
> > For some reason, maybe just my airplanes, but
> > occassionally a pop rivet head will seperate on
> > the hinges, sometimes I get them on the upper
> > vertical stabilizer attachments too.
> > john h
Snuf/Gang:
I didn't say my hinge rivets have loosened. I
said "occasssionally a pop rivet head will
seperate", i.e., pop off, leaving the stem behind.
Guess it could be caused by a number of things,
but is not a serious problem. Now, if a hand full
of them popped their heads at one time, yep, I
would start getting concerned.
Only place that I can think of that had lose
rivets was lower portion of bottom rudder hinge.
I keep a check on those.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Rotax 447 - Victor 1+ Comparison |
I have received several requests for information about the Victor 1+ and how it
stacks up against the Rotax 447. So I put together a comparison list. It can
be found at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/victor_fuel.html
In my quest to find a better engine, I visited the local 2 cycle engine guru who
sets up motorcycle engines for racing to get a short course on the characteristics
of piston port and reed valve induction engines. I was told that reed
valve engines, were more economical, idle better, do not load up and are eager
to run, and in more general would be more civil than a piston ported engine.
Everything the guru told me has been true when it comes to comparing the Victor
1+ with the Rotax 447. The only unanswered question is, is it going to holdup
for the long term, and with that I will just have to wait and see.
No flying today. A few days ago we were in deep snow, then very high winds, and
today it is water.
Have a good Holiday!
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cable connector |
A
> > I am building a heater box and need to afffix a push pull tube. What would
> > work perfect for me is the little u channel piece the Firestar uses to
> > attach
I bit of square key stock a hacksaw and some small drills and taps
should get you what you want. Or do it the easy way and call Kolb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Second Chantz |
Back in the eighties a Canadian company called Niagara had a remote
deployed chute that had a spring powered drogue chute. Never had to worry
about rockets with them. Did not have the same penetrating power as a
rocket but they still pulled the chute out okay.
I always thought the electrically fired rockets were like an Estes
Rocket with a hot wire inside them for ignition.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
Is the list down?
I have not got a neww message since mid-day thursday.
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Michigan trip |
If you want to cross the river you can visit me and see my "slightly
modified" mk111 and a stock Mk111 side by side. Staying on the American
side you will find a mk111 -x and a mk11.
>
>I will be going to Oak Park, right outside of Detroit, over the holidays.
>Any Kolbs nearby or interesting ultralight airports I could visit while there?
>
>Jim
>Mark III
>Charlotte, NC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>Have you ever covered the wing and attached hinges
>per the instructions? If not, you ought to try
>it. Personally, I think that is the way I do it.
I have built or helped build 6 kolbs Recovered or repaired a few more
and covered the wings of 3 as per instructions. I like my new way of doing
it. Of course that is all personal preference.
>. If the rivet
>is conveniently covered up, you won't know it.
>Maybe that is no big deal for some, but I just as
>soon drill them out and replace.
I don't know if any of the heads of the rivets holding the ribs on the
spars have popped off now or not. There is no way to check that either. Do
the math and you will find there are a lot more rivets used that
engineering specs would call for.
>I also know from practical experience on a lot of
>Kolb wings, mine, that I have covered and
>recovered, it is extremely difficult to get slit
>fits to look anywhere neat enough (for me anyhow)
>or for most aircraft judges. The slit fit I am
>talking about is the one around the lift strut
>tang. Might be even harder to do correctly on all
>those hinges.
For that tang I usually cut a circle about 5" dia and slit the center.
Not actually a slit , more of a long narrow hole that the tang will fit
through. Lots of glue and it seems to stay put. After the hinge slits are
cut and shrunk I usually take a match and burn off any loose threads.
caution is needed at this stage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tom sabean <sabean(at)ns.sympatico.ca> |
To all the listers who commented on the gascolator issue, many thanks
for the insights. I will definitely install one plus make sure I use the
squeeze primer method to clean the bottom of the tanks periodically.
Thanks,
Tom Sabean
dna
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Headset question |
I have a Telex headset that I bought several years back which looks bad but
seems to work the best. When I use this one in my system ( PTT switch on my
Icom handheld radio) it works great in the kolb. I can also hear myself in
the headset when I transmit. When I use my brand new Sigtronics headset I
can;t hear myself in the headest when I trensmit. I have a third Pilot
headset that I also can't hear my voice. I believe all three mics work
because I have tested them by using them in my portable intercom system. Any
body have any ideas why the 2 don't seem to work? Should'ne I be able to
hear my own voice in each headset as I transmit?
My set up is a Icom handheld with a standard PTT that I cut off the switch
and added a small switch to the end of the stick. Works awsom with my Telex
so I know it works fine.
Thanks
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Headset question |
> Try increasing the sidetone volume on the radio. Hold "Talk" and push the "up"
> arrow on the radio (check your manual).
> Ken
Ken/Gang:
Do you know if that will work on an ICOM A3?
Also, does anyone know how to increas volume above
and beyond what it is capable of with the volume
knob?
The older I get the deafer I get, or the deafer I
get the older I get. Anyhow, I have difficulty at
times hearing radio traffic. Usually, towers and
most aircraft are loud enough, but sometimes
individual radios do not put out enough volume for
me to understand what they are saying.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Michigan trip |
Oh yeah ... if you want to call me try 519978 0926 I should be home
most of the holidays. There is also an original Twinstar for your viewing
pleasure.
If you want to cross the river you can visit me and see my "slightly
modified" mk111 and a stock Mk111 side by side. Staying on the American
side you will find a mk111 -x and a mk11.
________________________________________________________________________________
Where did everyone go?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
Hi Richard,
They must be shopping. I know if you live in the deep south your not flying
unless your John Hauck.
Later,
John Cooley
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: no mail
<rharris@magnolia-net.com>
>
> Where did everyone go?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
No progress on der Kolb? Me neither, not even a trip to Ace Aircraft
Supply.
A mediocre performance at my senior bowling league my only venture out.
I'm still looking for a really nice coolant recovery tank, someone on
the Geo
list suggested a bicycle water tank. After watching the news about that
Predator unmanned plane going down (1500 lbs/85mph) I got to wondering
why the military couldn't save a few $mil by adapting one of the better
off-the-shelf ultralights or kit planes to do the same job? -BB do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
It's slow and not much chat so I decided to insert some funny stuff to cheer up
the list folks...
hope ya find em amusing!
Happy Holidays......
pp.......
________________________________________________________________________________
Hang in there folks......
better weather ahead
Happy Holidays
pp..
Santa Claus, like all pilots, gets regular visits from the Federal
Aviation Administration, and the FAA examiner arrived last week for
the pre-Christmas flight check.
In preparation, Santa had the elves wash the sled and bathe all the
reindeer. Santa got his logbook out and made sure all his paperwork
was in order. He knew they would examine all his equipment and truly
put his flying skills to the test.
The examiner walked slowly around the sled. He checked the reindeer
harnesses, the landing gear, even Rudolf's nose. He painstakingly
reviewed Santa's weight and balance calculations for sled's enormous
payload.
Finally, they were ready for the checkride. Santa got in and fastened
his seatbelt and shoulder harness and checked the compass. Then the
examiner hopped in carrying, to Santa's surprise, a shotgun.
"What's that for?!?" asked Santa incredulously.
The examiner winked and said, "I'm not supposed to tell you this ahead
of time," as he leaned over to whisper in Santa's ear, "but you're
gonna lose an engine on takeoff."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
I thought I was being picked on up here in the NE the way the weather's
been. Sounds like most of the country is having similarly poor flying
conditions.
According to our local forecast, tomorrow is looking like "a good day to
fly." We're supposed to have winds -under- 5mph the entire day.
Unfortunately, the temperature isn't going to be much higher. Actually, it's
going to soar into the upper 20's! Whoo hoo! Anyway, I'm going to get as
much time in tomorrow as I can stand. Who knows when the weather is likely
to break again? The forecast has snow and gale force winds ripping right
back in on Christmas morning.
Wish me luck, and Happy Holidays!
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
Thanks Paul. I needed that laugh more than you know.
Do not archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
No new photos posted in 15 days ? I guess everyone is overwelmed with the
holidays ? Merry Christmas to all on the "list" & hope you have a great new
year!
Fly Safe
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | fire extinguishers |
Kolbers,
Anyone have any suggestions on a good source for an affordable fire extinguisher
for my Mark-3. I want a good one, and a good price if possible.
Merry Christmas to all,
Denny Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
Guys,
I need to contact Homer or Dennis Souder, does anyone have their phone number?
Dennis Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Better weather |
Ken, 20 degrees F is looking good here in mn. i fly in this all the time
with a short winshield and even 10 to 15 F sometimes... just gotta dress warm.
i'am going to a full enclosure soon.
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!!
Gary r. voigt
"Fackler, Ken" wrote:
>
> I thought I was being picked on up here in the NE the way the weather's
> been. Sounds like most of the country is having similarly poor flying
> conditions.
>
> According to our local forecast, tomorrow is looking like "a good day to
> fly." We're supposed to have winds -under- 5mph the entire day.
> Unfortunately, the temperature isn't going to be much higher. Actually, it's
> going to soar into the upper 20's! Whoo hoo! Anyway, I'm going to get as
> much time in tomorrow as I can stand. Who knows when the weather is likely
> to break again? The forecast has snow and gale force winds ripping right
> back in on Christmas morning.
>
> Wish me luck, and Happy Holidays!
>
> -Ken Fackler
> Mark II / 503
> Rochester MI
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fire extinguishers |
| From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
12/24/02 6:02rowedl(at)highstream.net
> Anyone have any suggestions on a good source for an affordable fire
> extinguisher for my Mark-3. I want a good one, and a good price if possible.
==========================
Any Halon extinguisher would work. the one in my airplane is from
Sutherland, a knock off of the Home Depot. Just make sure its Halon and
you'd be alright.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | The Night Before Christmas |
The Night Before Christmas - Aviation Style
===============================================
'Twas the night before Christmas, and out on the ramp,
Not an airplane was stirring, not even a Champ.
The aircraft were fastened to tiedowns with care,
In hopes that come morning, they all would be there.
The fuel trucks were nestled, all snug in their spots,
With gusts from two-forty at 39 knots.
I slumped at the fuel desk, now finally caught up,
And settled down comfortably, resting my butt.
When the radio lit up with noise and with chatter,
I turned up the scanner to see what was the matter.
A voice clearly heard over static and snow,
Called for clearance to land at the airport below.
He barked his transmission so lively and quick,
I'd have sworn that the call sign he used was "St. Nick".
I ran to the panel to turn up the lights,
The better to welcome this magical flight.
He called his position, no room for denial,
"St. Nicholas One, turnin' left onto final."
And what to my wondering eyes should appear,
But a Rutan-built sleigh, with eight Rotax Reindeer!
With vectors to final, down the glideslope he came,
As he passed all fixes, he called them by name:
"Now Ringo! Now Tolga! Now Trini and Bacun!
On Comet! On Cupid!" What pills was he takin'?
While controllers were sittin', and scratchin' their head, They phoned
to
my office, and I heard it with dread, The message they left was both
urgent
and dour: "When Santa pulls in, have him please call the tower."
He landed like silk, with the sled runners sparking,
Then I heard "Left at Charlie," and "Taxi to parking."
He slowed to a taxi, turned off of three-oh
And stopped on the ramp with a "Ho, ho-ho-ho..."
He stepped out of the sleigh, but before he could talk,
I ran out to meet him with my best set of chocks.
His red helmet and goggles were covered with frost
And his beard was all blackened from Reindeer exhaust.
His breath smelled like peppermint, gone slightly stale,
And he puffed on a pipe, but he didn't inhale.
His cheeks were all rosy and jiggled like jelly,
His boots were as black as a cropduster's belly.
He was chubby and plump, in his suit of bright red,
And he asked me to "fill it, with hundred low-lead."
He came dashing in from the snow-covered pump,
I knew he was anxious for drainin' the sump.
I spoke not a word, but went straight to my work,
And I filled up the sleigh, but I spilled like a jerk.
He came out of the restroom, and sighed in relief,
Then he picked up a phone for a Flight Service brief.
And I thought as he silently scribed in his log,
These reindeer could land in an eighth-mile fog.
He completed his pre-flight, from the front to the rear,
Then he put on his headset, and I heard him yell, "Clear!"
And laying a finger on his push-to-talk,
He called up the tower for clearance and squawk.
"Take taxiway Charlie, the southbound direction,
Turn right three-two-zero at pilot's discretion"
He sped down the runway, the best of the best,
"Your traffic's a Grumman, inbound from the west."
Then I heard him proclaim, as he climbed thru the night, "Merry
Christmas
to all! I have traffic in sight."
MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL
________________________________________________________________________________
This is the one that did'nt make it
enjoy
Happy Holidays
> hillbilly went hunting one day in Oklahoma and
> bagged three ducks. He
>
> put them in the bed of his pickup truck and was
> about to drive home when
>
> he was confronted by an ornery game warden who
> didn't like hillbillies.
>
> The game warden ordered to the hillbilly to
> show his hunting license, and
>
> the hillbilly pulled out a valid Oklahoma
> hunting license.
>
>
> The game warden looked at the license, then
> reached over and picked up
>
> one of the ducks, sniffed its butt, and said
>
> "This duck ain't from Oklahoma. This is a
> Kansas duck. You got a
>
> Kansas huntin' license, boy?" The hillbilly
> reached into his wallet and
>
> produced a Kansas hunting license. The game
> warden looked at it, then
>
> reached over and grabbed the second duck,
> sniffed its butt, and said
>
> "This ain't no Kansas duck. This duck's from
> Arkansas. You got a
>
> Arkansas license?" The hillbilly reached into
> his wallet and produced an
>
> Arkansas hunting license. The warden then
> reached over and picked up the
>
> third duck, sniffed its butt, and said This
> ain't no Arkansas duck. This
>
> here duck's from South Carolina. You got a
> South Carolina huntin'
>
> license?"
>
>
> Again the hillbilly reached into his wallet and
> brought out a South
>
> Carolina hunting license. The game warden was
> extremely frustrated at
>
> this point, and he yelled at the hillbilly
> "Just where the hell are you
>
> from?" The hillbilly turned around, bent over,
> dropped his pants, and
>
> said
>
> "You tell me, Your the expert."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | MERRY CHRISTMAS KOLB LIST!!! |
MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!!!
Hope you get everything you are wishing for this season. even the
non-kolb owners who lurk the list like i did a few years ago...maybe you
will find a new kit under the tree this year. and most of all lets thank
the lord for our health and pray for those who are less fortunate than
us and become healthy soon. if we don't have our health we have nothing.
God bless and have a safe CHRISTMAS!!!
Gary r. voigt
Excelsior, mn.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The Night Before Christmas |
Ed, i loved it.
Gary r. voigt
Ed Chmielewski wrote:
>
> The Night Before Christmas - Aviation Style
> ===============================================
>
> 'Twas the night before Christmas, and out on the ramp,
> Not an airplane was stirring, not even a Champ.
> The aircraft were fastened to tiedowns with care,
> In hopes that come morning, they all would be there.
>
> The fuel trucks were nestled, all snug in their spots,
> With gusts from two-forty at 39 knots.
> I slumped at the fuel desk, now finally caught up,
> And settled down comfortably, resting my butt.
>
> When the radio lit up with noise and with chatter,
> I turned up the scanner to see what was the matter.
> A voice clearly heard over static and snow,
> Called for clearance to land at the airport below.
>
> He barked his transmission so lively and quick,
> I'd have sworn that the call sign he used was "St. Nick".
> I ran to the panel to turn up the lights,
> The better to welcome this magical flight.
>
> He called his position, no room for denial,
> "St. Nicholas One, turnin' left onto final."
> And what to my wondering eyes should appear,
> But a Rutan-built sleigh, with eight Rotax Reindeer!
>
> With vectors to final, down the glideslope he came,
> As he passed all fixes, he called them by name:
> "Now Ringo! Now Tolga! Now Trini and Bacun!
> On Comet! On Cupid!" What pills was he takin'?
>
> While controllers were sittin', and scratchin' their head, They phoned
> to
> my office, and I heard it with dread, The message they left was both
> urgent
> and dour: "When Santa pulls in, have him please call the tower."
>
> He landed like silk, with the sled runners sparking,
> Then I heard "Left at Charlie," and "Taxi to parking."
> He slowed to a taxi, turned off of three-oh
> And stopped on the ramp with a "Ho, ho-ho-ho..."
>
> He stepped out of the sleigh, but before he could talk,
> I ran out to meet him with my best set of chocks.
> His red helmet and goggles were covered with frost
> And his beard was all blackened from Reindeer exhaust.
>
> His breath smelled like peppermint, gone slightly stale,
> And he puffed on a pipe, but he didn't inhale.
> His cheeks were all rosy and jiggled like jelly,
> His boots were as black as a cropduster's belly.
>
> He was chubby and plump, in his suit of bright red,
> And he asked me to "fill it, with hundred low-lead."
> He came dashing in from the snow-covered pump,
> I knew he was anxious for drainin' the sump.
>
> I spoke not a word, but went straight to my work,
> And I filled up the sleigh, but I spilled like a jerk.
> He came out of the restroom, and sighed in relief,
> Then he picked up a phone for a Flight Service brief.
>
> And I thought as he silently scribed in his log,
> These reindeer could land in an eighth-mile fog.
> He completed his pre-flight, from the front to the rear,
> Then he put on his headset, and I heard him yell, "Clear!"
>
> And laying a finger on his push-to-talk,
> He called up the tower for clearance and squawk.
> "Take taxiway Charlie, the southbound direction,
> Turn right three-two-zero at pilot's discretion"
>
> He sped down the runway, the best of the best,
> "Your traffic's a Grumman, inbound from the west."
> Then I heard him proclaim, as he climbed thru the night, "Merry
> Christmas
> to all! I have traffic in sight."
>
> MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Better weather |
Hey all you "Easterners" (that would be anyone who lives east of California),
perhaps you are not aware of the latest NASA research that shows a little
typhoon in Florida is the least of your concerns! When "The BIG One"
(earthquake to you "Easterners") hits in California, the state is of
California is not going to slide into the Pacific - everything east of the
Sierras are going to slide into the Atlantic. We are going to be an island
out here, but don't worry, I'll try and call you to give you all enough time
to get the Kolb into the air. Carry extra fuel on board. Fly west.
If the big one hits on the 25th, look out for UFO with one red stobe mounted
on the nose cone of the leading tractor mounted power unit. FAA is looking
for him about the improper lighting and "other matters". If you see him in
flight tell him he doesn't have to worry though because they said they are
from the FAA and they are here to "help" him.
Merry Ho Ho to all!
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>Sent: Saturday, December 07, 2002 2:05 AM
>Subject: Fw: Eye Test for Pilots
>
>EyeTestf.gif
>
>
>Pilot's Eye Test
>
>This is very difficult test. It is a test given to Airline Pilots
>to see how observant they are in order to pass their FAA Medical.
>Follow the directions carefully and take your time.
>See if you are as good as our top airline pilots.
>
>
>FIND THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE TWO PICTURES
>
>There are seven differences between the two photographs,
>the second of which has been very cleverly touched up...
>
>Take a look at the first and memorize it -
>
>Then look at the second... you'll be surprised at how difficult it is to
>find them all...
>Good luck... Go slow and study the first one before going on!
>
>
>EyeTestf.jpg
>
>
>Now look at the second photo and find the differences.
>
>
>EyeTestf1.jpg
>
>
>Hope you passed !!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Better weather |
Gary, Where are you, and why are you still THERE???
Richard Harris
MK3 N912RH
Lewisville, Arkansas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Better weather
>
> Ken, 20 degrees F is looking good here in mn. i fly in this all the
time
> with a short winshield and even 10 to 15 F sometimes... just gotta dress
warm.
> i'am going to a full enclosure soon.
>
> HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!!
> Gary r. voigt
>
> "Fackler, Ken" wrote:
>
> >
> > I thought I was being picked on up here in the NE the way the weather's
> > been. Sounds like most of the country is having similarly poor flying
> > conditions.
> >
> > According to our local forecast, tomorrow is looking like "a good day to
> > fly." We're supposed to have winds -under- 5mph the entire day.
> > Unfortunately, the temperature isn't going to be much higher. Actually,
it's
> > going to soar into the upper 20's! Whoo hoo! Anyway, I'm going to get as
> > much time in tomorrow as I can stand. Who knows when the weather is
likely
> > to break again? The forecast has snow and gale force winds ripping right
> > back in on Christmas morning.
> >
> > Wish me luck, and Happy Holidays!
> >
> > -Ken Fackler
> > Mark II / 503
> > Rochester MI
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
For those flying in open Kolbs, just finished my full enclosure on my
Firestar 2 and heat after almost 200 open hours of flying. Now I can extend
my winter flying here in virginia. Flew it for the first time this week,
it's like a new airplane. the sound sure is different and it's weird to be in
out of the wind. Kind of more like flying in a spam can but it sure is neat.
The heat is awsom.
It snowed today, hope to go flying off the snow on Xmas day for a first. Dry
and warm.
Merry Xmas.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Open cockpits. |
Tim, can you send me some pics of your enclosure, also what type of heat did
you go with.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
Timandjan(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> For those flying in open Kolbs, just finished my full enclosure on my
> Firestar 2 and heat after almost 200 open hours of flying. Now I can extend
> my winter flying here in virginia. Flew it for the first time this week,
> it's like a new airplane. the sound sure is different and it's weird to be in
> out of the wind. Kind of more like flying in a spam can but it sure is neat.
> The heat is awsom.
> It snowed today, hope to go flying off the snow on Xmas day for a first. Dry
> and warm.
>
> Merry Xmas.
>
> Tim
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Open cockpits. |
I too would like to see pictures or the enclosure and see details of the
heating system. Thanks in advance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Season's Greeting |
Skis--Skis--Where are the skis ??? Albany, NY. 19.2" of snow Christmas
day. OH yea, it was a white Christmas !!!
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FSII Full Enclosure |
Hello FS owners, did anyone design and build their own canopy or is the kolb
design good enough and worth the money.
Thanks
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello all
Removed carbs turn crank to TDC can see
vertical scrtch marks on cyl. wall .
cause for alarm?????
FS2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
How deep? How many? Which wall (s)?
Any idea how caused? (Where are the circlips? Where they belong?)
One cylinder or both? How about the piston (s)? Rings?
Coloration? Heat apparent?
(The devil is in the details)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
> Hello all
> Removed carbs turn crank to TDC can see
>vertical scrtch marks on cyl. wall .
> cause for alarm?????
> FS2
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net> |
Hello, i have have got some also.....about 7 or 8 on each cylinder,
looks like about .0005" to .0015" deep...hard to tell. all i know is i either
let a few pieces of aluminum shavings fall when i was installing and drilling
for my muffler brackets or i did this on a cold seizure in the winter by not
letting it warm up enough. i have been flying like this and have not had any
problems but i do monitor closely. i will probably have this honed out at the
time when i overhaul.
EnaudZ(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hello all
> Removed carbs turn crank to TDC can see
> vertical scrtch marks on cyl. wall .
> cause for alarm?????
> FS2
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Covering the Cage |
Hello fellow builders, is it crucial to remove the tail boom to wrap the
covering around the part of the cage where the tail boom fits into the cage ?
Or can that part be glued with the tail still attached?
Thanks
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | EBAY!!! LAZER & MARK11 |
Hello fellow flyers...this might be a good deal for somebody who
wants a kolb lazer (3 kits) and also a kolb mark11 on ebay!!! check it
out.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=26428&item=1875621589
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=26428&item=1875443786
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FSII Full Enclosure |
>
>Hello FS owners, did anyone design and build their own canopy or is the kolb
>design good enough and worth the money.
>
>Thanks
>Ron
Check my pod in the photoshare archives (T Bird). It took time and a bit
of money but I like it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | kit bill of sale |
Kolbers,
I have hit a speedbump on the highway to registering my Mk-3.
My kit was originally bought in 92 by a fellow who was unable to complete it.
I bought it at nearly the point of a quik-build kit in 97 and have since nearly
completed it." I know that its been a long time, but I have a young family."
The FAA now tells me I need to submit the original bill of sale from Kolb to Gerry
Heffner the original owner, and also that my handwritten note from Gerry describing
the sale to me in 97 is not a sufficient paper trail. They were kind
enough to supply me with two Bill of Sale forms (AC 8050-2) to complete the
required paper trail, but I have not been able to locate Mr Heffner as he has
since moved, and how can Kolb help me now that they have changed hands? How was
that for a run on sentence?
I have Gerrys original invoices from each of the subkits, powder coating, and Matco
brakes, but the Feds say these are of no use.
Any suggestions on how to get this mess fixed fast, or does anyone know Gerry Heffner
from Hazleton PA and can tell me where to find him?
Denny Rowe
Mk-3 N616DR
Leechburg,PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: kit bill of sale |
>
>Kolbers,
>I have hit a speedbump on the highway to registering my Mk-3.
>My kit was originally bought in 92 by a fellow who was unable to complete it.
>I bought it at nearly the point of a quik-build kit in 97 and have since
>nearly completed it." I know that its been a long time, but I have a young
>family."
>The FAA now tells me I need to submit the original bill of sale from Kolb
>to Gerry Heffner the original owner, and also that my handwritten note
>from Gerry describing the sale to me in 97 is not a sufficient paper
>trail. They were kind enough to supply me with two Bill of Sale forms (AC
>8050-2) to complete the required paper trail, but I have not been able to
>locate Mr Heffner as he has since moved, and how can Kolb help me now that
>they have changed hands? How was that for a run on sentence?
>I have Gerrys original invoices from each of the subkits, powder coating,
>and Matco brakes, but the Feds say these are of no use.
>Any suggestions on how to get this mess fixed fast, or does anyone know
>Gerry Heffner from Hazleton PA and can tell me where to find him?
>Denny Rowe
>Mk-3 N616DR
>Leechburg,PA
You might try these
Gerry Heffner
1 South Church St.
Hazleton, PA 18201
717-455-1508
CAN DO Inc
The building is located two-tenths of a mile from Route 309, four miles
from Interstate 81 and 11 mi. from Hazleton Airport.
"This building shows better than anything in the county," said Gerry
Heffner, SEDCO vice president.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Paul Petty ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Paul Petty <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Honda power plant
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/ppetty@c-gate.net.12.26.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
Fields as shown along with your submission of files and photos.
o Main Photo Share Index:
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--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: kit bill of sale |
That is no longer a good phone number, I also tried it with that areas new
area code which is (570) and that was no good also, I believe it gave me the
chamber of commerce or somthing like that.
Thanks anyway,
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: possums <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: kit bill of sale
>
> >
> >Kolbers,
> >I have hit a speedbump on the highway to registering my Mk-3.
> >My kit was originally bought in 92 by a fellow who was unable to complete
it.
> >I bought it at nearly the point of a quik-build kit in 97 and have since
> >nearly completed it." I know that its been a long time, but I have a
young
> >family."
> >The FAA now tells me I need to submit the original bill of sale from Kolb
> >to Gerry Heffner the original owner, and also that my handwritten note
> >from Gerry describing the sale to me in 97 is not a sufficient paper
> >trail. They were kind enough to supply me with two Bill of Sale forms
(AC
> >8050-2) to complete the required paper trail, but I have not been able to
> >locate Mr Heffner as he has since moved, and how can Kolb help me now
that
> >they have changed hands? How was that for a run on sentence?
> >I have Gerrys original invoices from each of the subkits, powder coating,
> >and Matco brakes, but the Feds say these are of no use.
> >Any suggestions on how to get this mess fixed fast, or does anyone know
> >Gerry Heffner from Hazleton PA and can tell me where to find him?
> >Denny Rowe
> >Mk-3 N616DR
> >Leechburg,PA
>
> You might try these
>
> Gerry Heffner
> 1 South Church St.
> Hazleton, PA 18201
> 717-455-1508
> CAN DO Inc
>
> The building is located two-tenths of a mile from Route 309, four miles
> from Interstate 81 and 11 mi. from Hazleton Airport.
> "This building shows better than anything in the county," said Gerry
> Heffner, SEDCO vice president.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duncan McBride <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: kit bill of sale |
I bought my first kit from the old Kolb, and all the rest from new Kolb.
When it came time to register the plane, new Kolb provided me with a bill of
sale. The information needed on the bill of sale isn't a lot - just the
date and the recipient's name. New Kolb might give you one made out to Mr.
Heffner. I'd call them to start.
Good luck,
Duncan
----- Original Message -----
From: <rowedl(at)highstream.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: kit bill of sale
>
> Kolbers,
> I have hit a speedbump on the highway to registering my Mk-3.
> My kit was originally bought in 92 by a fellow who was unable to complete
it.
> I bought it at nearly the point of a quik-build kit in 97 and have since
nearly completed it." I know that its been a long time, but I have a young
family."
> The FAA now tells me I need to submit the original bill of sale from Kolb
to Gerry Heffner the original owner, and also that my handwritten note from
Gerry describing the sale to me in 97 is not a sufficient paper trail. They
were kind enough to supply me with two Bill of Sale forms (AC 8050-2) to
complete the required paper trail, but I have not been able to locate Mr
Heffner as he has since moved, and how can Kolb help me now that they have
changed hands? How was that for a run on sentence?
> I have Gerrys original invoices from each of the subkits, powder coating,
and Matco brakes, but the Feds say these are of no use.
> Any suggestions on how to get this mess fixed fast, or does anyone know
Gerry Heffner from Hazleton PA and can tell me where to find him?
> Denny Rowe
> Mk-3 N616DR
> Leechburg,PA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lloyd O'Dell" <wander10(at)infi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: kit bill of sale |
Hello Denny,
I recently registered my Kolb Firestar II with the FAA, and when through the
same thing. My quick build kit was purchased by one man in 1996 and sold to
another man in 1998. I purchased the parts in 2002 and did most of the assembly.
When I originally filled out the 8050-88 form I checked the box that said (more
than 50 percent of the above aircraft was built from a kit). The FAA came
back with the same thing they told you, and I proceeded to acquire the necessary
bill of sales. I contacted both the previous owners and TNK Company. I
met with frustration, TNK Co. was willing to cooperate and issue the correct bill
of sale with the correct SN of my plane, but problems occurred with the first
owner.
So what I did was; Get a new 8050-88 form, filled it out with the box checked
(more than 50 percent of the above aircraft was built from miscellaneous parts
and I am the owner, get it notarized, write a letter to the FAA telling
them I made a mistake when I filled out the original form, send all the paper
work together to the FAA, and please register my aircraft. They contacted me
within two weeks and said they would register my aircraft.
Lloyd, Central Florida
Firestar II
N-70EL
rowedl(at)highstream.net wrote:
>
> Kolbers,
> I have hit a speedbump on the highway to registering my Mk-3.
> My kit was originally bought in 92 by a fellow who was unable to complete it.
> I bought it at nearly the point of a quik-build kit in 97 and have since nearly
completed it." I know that its been a long time, but I have a young family."
> The FAA now tells me I need to submit the original bill of sale from Kolb to
Gerry Heffner the original owner, and also that my handwritten note from Gerry
describing the sale to me in 97 is not a sufficient paper trail. They were kind
enough to supply me with two Bill of Sale forms (AC 8050-2) to complete the
required paper trail, but I have not been able to locate Mr Heffner as he has
since moved, and how can Kolb help me now that they have changed hands? How
was that for a run on sentence?
> I have Gerrys original invoices from each of the subkits, powder coating, and
Matco brakes, but the Feds say these are of no use.
> Any suggestions on how to get this mess fixed fast, or does anyone know Gerry
Heffner from Hazleton PA and can tell me where to find him?
> Denny Rowe
> Mk-3 N616DR
> Leechburg,PA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pulse pump cracks warning |
| From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
12/27/2002 10:02:21 AM
Kolb guys, here's a heads-up warning for you to check out on your fuel
pump. I was rebuilding my Mikuni dual pulse pump last week and noticed it
had cracks in the casting. The cracks were on the cover side casting which
has the pulse port pressed into it. This pump is of 1996 vintage. On this
"old style" pump the pulse port fitting presses straight into the surface
of the cover casting, in the middle. The cracks I found were forming
radially (out from the center where the fitting was pressed into it), there
were three or four cracks, they were visible on the inside of the pump
only, and one of them may have lost some material in the form of a small
flake of aluminum or two. Obviously, I decided to replace the pump. A
quick look at the Leaf catalog revealed that the small picture in the
catalog may have been showing a slightly different design, which had the
pulse port pressed into the side of a cast boss on the cover, instead of
into the center of the cover. The "new style" pump was also found in three
forms at local snowmobile/watercraft dealerships last week. They had a
generic one, one for certain models, and the Skidoo dealer had one with the
small (0.015" diameter !!!) hole drilled into the pulse port fitting. But
all three were of the "new style" pulse port fitting location. And, like I
said above, I think what Leaf is selling now is of the "new style".
The cracks I found were not evident on the outside surface of the pump,
so I found them only when I was attempting a rebuild of the pump. They had
apparently not propagated through the metal, so were not leaking vacuum.
One of them may have flaked a small bit of aluminum. At some point the
cracks may have come thru to the outside, and the pump would then have
leaked vacuum and so would become weak or quit pumping. I suppose that the
cracks may have let the pulse fitting loosen up also, although I did not
detect it on mine.
I have posted pictures to Matronics Pictures Page, and they may be up in
a few days. One shot shows the pump cover, inside view, cracks visible.
The other shot shows the old pump in the foreground, and the new style pump
in the background, both outside (fully assembled) views.
I would suggest you take a quick look at your pump, and if it is the old
style, and anywhere close to a rebuild anyway, order a new one. Be sure
you get a new style one, like the photo will show. I think Leaf is
selling the new style, and gets 29 bucks for them. A rebuild will not fix
the cracks potential, you need the new style casting. Of course you need
the pump with the tiny hole in the pulse port for Rotax engines. I drilled
mine with a number 78 drill.
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Paul Petty ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Veddy Interesting......................yessss. Kinda neat.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Email List Photo Shares" <pictures(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: [ Paul Petty ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
>
>
> A new Email List Photo Share is available:
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>
>
> Subject: Honda power plant
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>
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/ppetty@c-gate.net.12.26.2002/index.html
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: kit bill of sale |
This is interesting. It appears the FAA is trying to make the supporting
sale documentation retroactive for the sale of kits and airplane parts for
years back before they began this ridiculous paper trail requirement. No
one years ago used FAA bill of sale forms for transferring ownership of a
kit. Completed FAA registered aircraft but not kits. Secondly, who passes
on the original sale paper work to a kit they bought. My belief is to pass
on as little paper work as I can with my name on it that might show any
connection to the kit for liability reasons.
jerb
>
>That is no longer a good phone number, I also tried it with that areas new
>area code which is (570) and that was no good also, I believe it gave me the
>chamber of commerce or somthing like that.
>
>Thanks anyway,
>Denny
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: possums <possums(at)mindspring.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: kit bill of sale
>
>
> >
> > >
> > >Kolbers,
> > >I have hit a speedbump on the highway to registering my Mk-3.
> > >My kit was originally bought in 92 by a fellow who was unable to complete
>it.
> > >I bought it at nearly the point of a quik-build kit in 97 and have since
> > >nearly completed it." I know that its been a long time, but I have a
>young
> > >family."
> > >The FAA now tells me I need to submit the original bill of sale from Kolb
> > >to Gerry Heffner the original owner, and also that my handwritten note
> > >from Gerry describing the sale to me in 97 is not a sufficient paper
> > >trail. They were kind enough to supply me with two Bill of Sale forms
>(AC
> > >8050-2) to complete the required paper trail, but I have not been able to
> > >locate Mr Heffner as he has since moved, and how can Kolb help me now
>that
> > >they have changed hands? How was that for a run on sentence?
> > >I have Gerrys original invoices from each of the subkits, powder coating,
> > >and Matco brakes, but the Feds say these are of no use.
> > >Any suggestions on how to get this mess fixed fast, or does anyone know
> > >Gerry Heffner from Hazleton PA and can tell me where to find him?
> > >Denny Rowe
> > >Mk-3 N616DR
> > >Leechburg,PA
> >
> > You might try these
> >
> > Gerry Heffner
> > 1 South Church St.
> > Hazleton, PA 18201
> > 717-455-1508
> > CAN DO Inc
> >
> > The building is located two-tenths of a mile from Route 309, four miles
> > from Interstate 81 and 11 mi. from Hazleton Airport.
> > "This building shows better than anything in the county," said Gerry
> > Heffner, SEDCO vice president.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulse pump cracks warning |
Dear Jim Gerken and all other Kolbers:
Jim , may I ask how your pump is mounted? I've been warned that failure to
install the pump with some kind of shock mounting, that is, insulating it
from both engine and airframe vibration, can cause pump failure including
cracking.
On that note, my pump is not currently "mounted" at all. Rather it's
attached with a combination of tie wraps and safety wire; it sort of
dangles. Now I'm not all that happy with the arrangement but lack the
engineering ability to design anything. Therefore, I'm asking anyone who's
interested to post and/or send direct to me (kfackler(at)ameritech.net)
suggestions for how to mount a pump that avoids the problems mentioned
above.
Please keep in mind that for your suggestions to do me any good (read: for
me to understand them) they have to be in words of one syllable or less!
Also, it would be preferable if it didn't require fabrication as I only have
access to hand tools.
Thanks in advance for any and all thoughts and suggestions!
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
> Kolb guys, here's a heads-up warning for you to check out on your fuel
> pump. I was rebuilding my Mikuni dual pulse pump last week and noticed it
> had cracks in the casting.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Fire Extinguishers |
Denny -
On your question about which fire extinguisher is a good choice for a Kolb,
Cap'n Ron's advice is good - go with Halon.
I bought the little 14-oz unit from Aircraft Spruce. Nice and compact.
Cost $47. Comes with a mounting bracket which I fastened to the floorpan of
my Mark-3 on the far-right side. Out of the way of anyone's feet, yet
within easy reach if needed. Good little piece of insurance.
Dennis Kirby
N93DK, Verner-powered, in
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Covering the Cage |
<< ... is it crucial to remove the tail boom to wrap the
covering around the part of the cage where the tail boom fits into the cage
? Or can that part be glued with the tail still attached? >>
Ron -
I devised a way to cover the cage without the tailboom attached, and it
worked out fine. Reason: I wanted to finish as much of the pod/cage as
possible before attaching the tailboom so it would still fit in my one-car
garage. Once the tailboom is attached, it is too long to fit in the garage.
Here's how I did it: I took a piece of 6-inch diameter PVC pipe, about 6
feet long, and attached it temporarilly to the cage of my Mark-3. Once
installed, about 2 feet of it stuck out aft of the cage. I then covered the
cage. Just don't glue the fabric to the PVC when you form it around the PVC
tube. When everything was done (covered, painted, engine installed,
interior & instruments installed, etc.), I removed the "surrogate" boom tube
and installed the real one. The fabric fit around the real tube perfectly.
Hope this helps ...
Dennis Kirby
Verner-powered Mark-3 in
New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
I just noticed this new Hirth engine. http://www.recpower.com/3701.htm
The Hirth is looking more and more as the engine of choice for my M3X, It
aint too far off price wise from the Jabiru. But the 2 cycle p/w ratio is
vary atractive. I doubt anyone here has any experience with this new mill,
but I would apreciate any comments on either this or the F30 (ES), 85-100hp
motor. :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
Richard
They are just under the exhaust port and extend down
about1.5 in. no wider than the exhaust port on both ports
90 deg. from rist pin, piston is not scored.
TIA Duane Z
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Chilly Vest - Look, John Hauck |
John, can you tell me how to find the Chilly Vest?
Thanks
Howard Shackleford
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Hirth motor |
>
>
>The Hirth is looking more and more as the engine of choice for my M3X, It
>aint too far off price wise from the Jabiru. But the 2 cycle p/w ratio is
>vary atractive. I doubt anyone here has any experience with this new mill,
>but I would apreciate any comments on either this or the F30 (ES), 85-100hp
>motor. :-)
I fly a Hirth 2703 and a friend has a 2706. I have a Hirth f30 in the
basement waiting for a project to install it on. Kitplanes did a write up
on the f30 about 6 months ago. It was very favourable and there were no
complaints at all.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cold weather gear for hands |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
writes:
>
>
> Are there any suppliers for gloves similar to this vest? What with
> long
> undies and the little chemical footwarmers, the only place I really
> get cold
> is my hands. I bought a pair of gloves that are supposed to be
> heated
> "electrically" by batteries, but even wearing them AND using the
> chemical
> handwarmers, my hands, especially my stick hand, get very cold.
> That's the
> part of me that's the most limiting in terms of time in the air
> during cold
> weather, I'd say.
>
> Any suggestions, folks?
Being from Minnesota and flying without an enclosed cockpit, the secret
to staying warm is dressing in layers. This traps air between the
clothing layers and insulates the body. Keeping the body warm will keep
the hands and feet warm. Here's what I put on when going flying in sub
freezing temperatures: Over the underwear with jeans, wear a long thermal
underwear shirt then a summer T-shirt (usually the Kolb), then a thick
sweatshirt, a windbreaker (Kolb), outer winter snow pants and jacket
(Columbia). On the feet wear two pairs of socks then wool socks and
insulated snow boots. For the hands, ordinary insulated ski gloves are
the best. A good snowmobile suit with thermal underwear would be another
option.
I was flying off the frozen lakes the day after Christmas and was plenty
warm in temperatures that were about 25F. I was so warm that I was
sweating at times.
Ralph
Original Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cold weather gear for hands |
Leather gloves with the army type wool glove inserts fit tight and insulate
nicely.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
Does anyone know if the front and rear seatbelt harness are exactly the same
for the FireStar II ?
Ron Laklew
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Hirth motor |
| From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
12/27/02 20:06woody
>
>
>>
>>
>> The Hirth is looking more and more as the engine of choice for my M3X, It
>> aint too far off price wise from the Jabiru. But the 2 cycle p/w ratio is
>> vary atractive. I doubt anyone here has any experience with this new mill,
>> but I would apreciate any comments on either this or the F30 (ES), 85-100hp
>> motor. :-)
>
>
> I fly a Hirth 2703 and a friend has a 2706. I have a Hirth f30 in the
> basement waiting for a project to install it on. Kitplanes did a write up
> on the f30 about 6 months ago. It was very favourable and there were no
> complaints at all.
>
=========================================
Thanks Woody.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
Kolbers,
John and Wills posts with the great photos has got Linda and I thinking about getting
a digital camera.
I would like one that could be mounted on the airframe and remotely triggered,
hopefully under $250. Also, where can I find info on how you guys post these jpg
photos for people to click on, this is one of the best features of this list,
you know, the thousand words saying.
Thanks,
Denny "really internet challenged" Rowe
Mk-3 final assembly Leechburg PA
2SI690L-70 N616DR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold weather gear for hands |
I have to have a lot of hand protection since my hands are getting
peripheral neuritis as well as Raynauds Phenomenen (just means hands get
very cold at even 60F) so I use a combination of heavy sno-mo gloves
after first putting on thin silk(?) fairly tight-fitting inner gloves.
They look like black silk hose, but help (me) a lot. When I was at Thule
AFB in early '50s, we had double gloves and mittens and huge white felt
boots, called Mickey Mouse boots--only good for dry snow.
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com |
Happy New Year Kolbers, Has anyone installed disc brakes on the Azusa wheels
? If so, what kind. Are the drum brakes just as light ?
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Kolbers,
Another idea from my motorcycling. Harley Davidson offers a heated vest,gloves,pants
and socks. I have not tried the system myself but a bro of mine bought one
and says it works great! Has a thermostat to control the amount of heat you
want and the whole thing is a thin inner liner type. I have seen him blast past
me with temps in the 20's (and that's cold for this part of the country) and
smile and ride on. Works off the bike battery.
Kinda pricey though
I think 400 bucks for the whole package
Later
pp
________________________________________________________________________________
Here is where to find and view the heated goodies!
Happy shopping!
pp
http://www.harley-davidson.com/browse/browse_products.jsp?WebLogicSessionPg4kpEuF2PMr4UdoSTKmbCCypMKC5gsiOf7vQ1GMO2p9nulriknp|7108742062797707381/181237815/6/7005/7005/7002/7002/7005/-1|7080022102207006712/181237802/6/7005/7005/7002/7002/7005/-1&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id5766611&bmUID1041114276587
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Toasty Mosty correction |
Kolbers,
After looking at the website I guess my bro just bought the vest and gloves..........
Heated jacket liner: $220.00 dollars Visa debit card
Heated Vest liner: $180.00 dollars Visa debit card
Heated Pants liner: $165.00 dollars Visa debit card
Heated Gloves: $165.00 dollars Visa debit card
Heated Socks: $79.00 dollars Visa debit card
Thermostat: $59.00 dollars Visa debit card
Watching your cheap buddy freeze his ass of next to you....
Priceless..............
From experience Harley Davidson products are of the utmost in quality. Their products
really are top notch. If you notice every thing except for the thermostat
has the HD logo witch stands for Hundred Dollar!!!
Fly safe $ warm $$$$$$
pp
________________________________________________________________________________
Try this for the site on heated clothing
www.harley-davidson.com
then go to motorclothes
then heated gear
pp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
http://www.gerbing.com/Pages/gloves.html $139
http://twomorrowssupply.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TMS&Product_Code=LG-20&Category_Code=ACC
$25
http://www.weatheraffects.com/6301.htm $37
http://www.motorcycleapparel.net/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MA&Product_Code=WD&Category_Code=Widder+Lectric+Heat+Apparel
$79
From google.com
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Costco (Price Club) has a nice deal on a Magellan Sportrak Pro with cig
pwr plug, case, windshield suction cup mount and CD for mapping--$290
with a mail in rebate of $100.
Also a handy battery/starter pkg with chgr, air compressor(!),
cables--$60.
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold weather gear for hands |
I have a similar problem, to wit, compromised circulation due to diabetes.
My hands, too, get cold at temps much higher than normal folks and
completely irrespective of my overall body confort.
Can you provide any info on a source for the gloves you mention?
-Ken
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob n" <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
> I use a combination of heavy sno-mo gloves
> after first putting on thin silk(?) fairly tight-fitting inner gloves.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Engine De-rating and Bearing Life |
A couple of months ago there was a thread "Rotax operating speeds". While researching
and working on the comparison between the Rotax 447 and Victor 1+, I ran
across some Timken bearing info. I calculated out what would be the expected
change in bearing life for the Victor 1+ by reducing top engine speed from 6,000
rpm to 5,200 rpm (38 hp). Using Simonini's expected total before overhaul
time of 600 hours, I found that the bearing life would be extended to a little
less than 1,800 hours. If you would like to see the calculations, they can
be seen on the bottom of:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/victor_fuel.html
This pretty well indicates that if one wants to increase engine reliability, the
easiest thing one can do is to stay away from prolonged flights at high engine
rpm.
More snow. See you next year.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John J. Peters" <TopGunPI(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | landing gear legs |
Can anyone on the list tell me what the wall thickness is on 4130 steel
landing gear ?
I am thinking of building a dolly , and thought 4130 of similar thickness should
work fine.
Thanks for your time and help .
TopGunPI(at)att.net
FS II on Floats
S.E.Ma.
________________________________________________________________________________
Here are a couple of Kolbs for sale!
http://www.aerotraderonline.com/adsearchprocess.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Jim Gerken ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jim Gerken
Subject: Fuel pump defect found!
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/gerken@us.ibm.com.12.29.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
o EMAIL LIST PHOTO SHARE
Share your files and photos with other List members simply by
emailing the files to:
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Please view the typical Share above and include the Description Text
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--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ William George ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: William George
Subject: Mk-3 For Sale
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/wgeorge@mountainmeadowranch.com.12.29.2002/index.html
--------------------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kenny " <kenandmona(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator deflection? |
What is the degree of deflection upwards and downwards that one should
see in you elevators?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "fly3g" <fly3g(at)attbi.com> |
Dave (TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com
<http://us.f402.mail.yahoo.com/ym/Compose?To=TAILDRAGGER503@aol.com&YY=6
5970&order=down&sort=date&pos=0&view=a&head=b> )
I have been using a disc brake system on my FS2 that
is lighter than the drum brake system. There is a
picture on the photoshare list dated August 11.
Gregg
Boulder,CO
FS2/503/ 2v2
http://home.attbi.com/~fly3g/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Help! 503 on a MKIII? |
I need an answer Muy Pronto if posssssible...
My trusty old Rotax 532 got terribly sick today, but lingered long enough
to get me back to the airport gracefully from about 4 miles out. (There's
good sermon material in there, but that's for another time...) Reason for
failure so far unknown, that's not a priority at the moment.
In order to get the airplane home tomorrow from 25 miles away, a friend has
loaned me an old style 503, complete with everything, even the right prop
for that engine, a wooden Tennessee Propellors 60" 2 blade. Question: I
have always used a prop extension before because of the flexibility of the
IVO, but with a rigid prop, 1996 version MKIII, can the extension be
omitted? Will the wood prop clear everything safely? Because if it will,
then I don't have to fiddle around with figuring out the correct repitch to
use on my IVO. (I have the old style IVO, stack the shims, restack the
shims - etc.) I want to use the wood prop if possible to get it home before
the weather goes down.
Thanks.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Help! 503 on a MKIII? |
> Question: I
> have always used a prop extension before because of the flexibility of the
> IVO, but with a rigid prop, 1996 version MKIII, can the extension be
> omitted? Will the wood prop clear everything safely? Because if it will,
> then I don't have to fiddle around with figuring out the correct repitch to
> use on my IVO.
> Richard Pike
Hi Richard/Gang:
Glad you made it. Also, if it had to happen, glad
it waited until today.
Stopped by to visit Richard last Friday late. We
went for a short orientation flight around his
AO. Great place to fly. Beautiful area. Enjoyed
my flight and am proud to say we had power from
takeoff to landing.
Richard, back in the old days of fixed pitch
wooden props on Kolbs, we didn't know the
definition of prop extensions. I would think you
would be alright without one. I flew my MK III
and 582 with a Warp Drive Fast Taper Prop for a
while without extension and no stikes. Also flew
the GSC 3 blade wooden prop with the 582 on my MK
III.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator deflection? |
Kenny,
My Mark-3 manual calls for 9.75 inches minimum measured at the aft most tip
of the elevator, it says it's OK to have a little more. This is a 1992
manual. Don't know what the firestar or firefly would be.
Denny Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: Kenny <kenandmona(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Elevator deflection?
>
>
> What is the degree of deflection upwards and downwards that one should
> see in you elevators?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kenny " <kenandmona(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Elevator deflection? |
I am getting a 24 degree downward deflection and upward deflection is no
problem. My elevator horn posts going out to the elevator post contacts
the boom a little sooner than I'd like. May go in with some emory cloth
and smooth out some of the little burrs that might be hanging me up.
Thanks Denny
I may give Kolb a phone call in the morning before I go to work.
> [Original Message]
> From: <rowedl(at)highstream.net>
> To:
> Date: 12/29/2002 8:49:17 PM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Elevator deflection?
>
>
> Kenny,
> My Mark-3 manual calls for 9.75 inches minimum measured at the aft most
tip
> of the elevator, it says it's OK to have a little more. This is a 1992
> manual. Don't know what the Firestar or firefly would be.
> Denny Rowe
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Kenny <kenandmona(at)earthlink.net>
> To: Kolb List
> Subject: Kolb-List: Elevator deflection?
>
>
> >
> >
> > What is the degree of deflection upwards and downwards that one
should
> > see in you elevators?
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
Here's another Kolb up for sale, this one on ebay:
Item # 1876011906
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duncan McBride <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
I have 16 hours on my Mark III, and I'm contemplating the future when I fly off
the restriction. I'm going to need a practical (cheap) solution to flying into
Class C airspace, and would sure appreciate some advice. Are used transponders
a generally safe bet? Reconditioned? Even the sold as-is units seem to
command a good price, so either they hold their value because they are pretty
reliable, or else there are a lot of guys like me willing to take a chance to
save a few bucks keeping the prices up. What's been y'alls experience?
A related issue - where am I going to put the thing in my teeny little panel?
I'm thinking of a console I can bang my knee on, or an overhead I can bang my
head on....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
Do you want to limp or see stars???
Jeremy
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Duncan
McBride
Subject: Kolb-List: Transponder
I have 16 hours on my Mark III, and I'm contemplating the future when I
fly off the restriction. I'm going to need a practical (cheap) solution
to flying into Class C airspace, and would sure appreciate some advice.
Are used transponders a generally safe bet? Reconditioned? Even the
sold as-is units seem to command a good price, so either they hold their
value because they are pretty reliable, or else there are a lot of guys
like me willing to take a chance to save a few bucks keeping the prices
up. What's been y'alls experience?
A related issue - where am I going to put the thing in my teeny little
panel? I'm thinking of a console I can bang my knee on, or an overhead
I can bang my head on....
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
You can get a microair transponder for about $1200 US that uses a 2 1/4"
hole for mounting. http://www.mcp.com.au/microair/category4_1.htm
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
We support Aeroncas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Transponder
>
> Do you want to limp or see stars???
>
> Jeremy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Duncan
> McBride
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Transponder
>
>
>
> I have 16 hours on my Mark III, and I'm contemplating the future when I
> fly off the restriction. I'm going to need a practical (cheap) solution
> to flying into Class C airspace, and would sure appreciate some advice.
> Are used transponders a generally safe bet? Reconditioned? Even the
> sold as-is units seem to command a good price, so either they hold their
> value because they are pretty reliable, or else there are a lot of guys
> like me willing to take a chance to save a few bucks keeping the prices
> up. What's been y'alls experience?
>
> A related issue - where am I going to put the thing in my teeny little
> panel? I'm thinking of a console I can bang my knee on, or an overhead
> I can bang my head on....
>
>
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duncan McBride <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
A streamlined pod on the wing strut to hold a radio stack would be cool....
I checked the archives, and of course found some useful posts. I should
have done that first. I think I'll find out what the nearby avionics shops
can provide in the way of reconditioned used gear. Maybe work on a deal for
a panel mounted radio at the same time. King, Narco, and Cessna gear seems
to enjoy a healthy used market. We'll see.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Transponder
>
> Do you want to limp or see stars???
>
> Jeremy
>
>
> A related issue - where am I going to put the thing in my teeny little
> panel? I'm thinking of a console I can bang my knee on, or an overhead
> I can bang my head on....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Kearbey" <kearbey(at)jps.net> |
This is where mine goes! Will attach picture.
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Transponder
>
> I have 16 hours on my Mark III, and I'm contemplating the future when I
fly off the restriction. I'm going to need a practical (cheap) solution to
flying into Class C airspace, and would sure appreciate some advice. Are
used transponders a generally safe bet? Reconditioned? Even the sold as-is
units seem to command a good price, so either they hold their value because
they are pretty reliable, or else there are a lot of guys like me willing to
take a chance to save a few bucks keeping the prices up. What's been y'alls
experience?
>
> A related issue - where am I going to put the thing in my teeny little
panel? I'm thinking of a console I can bang my knee on, or an overhead I
can bang my head on....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Watch out for old Cessna radios--most are junk! Transponders, which are
all TSOd, do hold their value...and used with tag, are OK. They have to
be ckd every two years--look for that.
Bob N. old GA guy for 56 years
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | BRS for a Mark-3 |
Kolb Friends -
I made the decision to install a BRS on my M3-Classic.
Since I must fold/unfold the wings (and hence, remove the gap seal) for each
flight, I'm polling the list for which type of 'chute to install. The
canister or softpack? It will be the 1050-lb rated BRS.
Thanks for any suggestions ...
Dennis Kirby
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duncan McBride <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS for a Mark-3 |
If I couldn't fully enclose the softpack so the gap cover could fit over it
with a tear-through cover where the rocket would fire, I think I'd opt for
the canister, mounted above the gap cover - only a few small slots would
have to be cut in the cover to fit. The canister is about the size of the
912's oil tank anyway, so it would have some company...
What I did was buy the 1050 VLS, and it wouldn't fit inside the cover - now
I have a huge hole in the gap cover where the VLS sticks through, and I
think it leaks a lot of lift up and around the VLS. I'm thinking of some
kind of neoprene seal or something to close the gap but still let the chute
fire. Now I wish I had mounted the VLS higher, above the level of the gap
cover, so there would only be two small slots for the mount instead of a big
hole. Might as well have bought the canister, because I don't think there
is any less drag the way the VLS is mounted.
The best arrangement would be to fully enclose the soft pack in a permanent
gap seal - if you need to fold the wings, modify the gap seal at the sides
to allow access to the spar pins and clearance for folding. These things
are easier to think of than to do, of course. Good luck.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
Subject: Kolb-List: BRS for a Mark-3
>
> Kolb Friends -
> I made the decision to install a BRS on my M3-Classic.
> Since I must fold/unfold the wings (and hence, remove the gap seal) for
each
> flight, I'm polling the list for which type of 'chute to install. The
> canister or softpack? It will be the 1050-lb rated BRS.
> Thanks for any suggestions ...
> Dennis Kirby
> Cedar Crest, NM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duncan McBride <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
Does the inspection that merits the yellow tag serve for the biennial check,
too, or is that something else?
----- Original Message -----
From: "bob n" <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Transponder
>
> Watch out for old Cessna radios--most are junk! Transponders, which are
> all TSOd, do hold their value...and used with tag, are OK. They have to
> be ckd every two years--look for that.
>
> Bob N. old GA guy for 56 years
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Tag or work order must state passing biennial, dated, signed by
tech/shop. The basic test is done by either putting an antenna test box
enclosing the tpdr, or more crudely, putting a test ant near the ship's
ant. This results in an additional test of the coax and ship ant. The
test ant connects to tpdr test set. In the shop they use a special tpdr
test set that couples/plugs into the tpdr ant output jack. They measure
rec. sensitivity, mode decoding accuracy, reply pulse train for pulse
spacing and pulse shape, bracket spacing, code generation, and pwr
output. If you have an encoding altimeter, it gets ckd both
pneumatically (pressure alt ck) and reply pulse train, again for pulse
characteristics, and correct pulse coding of alt vs pulse train.
In a former life I did design work on the first IFF tester--UPN-4&6 as
well as the grandfather of the present beacon system.
Bob N,
________________________________________________________________________________
Seem to be more grandfathers building these days than any other group. Guess
we have the time and more importantly, the money.
When I started to fly, used to fly the four course ranges.
How old does that make me?
Bob G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mk III Radiator |
| From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
12/30/02 11:57Dave & Eve Pelletier
>
>
> Hello Kolbers
>
> I have a MK III and the original radiator couldn't hack it for summertime
> flying in southern Arizona, so we replaced it with an automotive type. Works
> jess fine, thank ewe, never getting over 180 degrees even on the hottest days.
> But now I'm flying in Prescott (5200') in the winter. Flew for a couple of
> hours on the 27th with the outside temp around 50 degrees. The water temp
> never quite reached 130 degrees. Question is, is there a problem here with
> the engine not getting hotter than this? It ran real fine but I'm a bit
> concerned as to whether or not I should install a thermostat. If so, what do
> you guys recommend? (By the way, I have a used 582 radiator for sale.)
> Happy Holidays
> Arizona Dave
>
>
>
Well 130 is low but not bad, the most important temp would be your CHT. If
they are runing within the normal range I would be happy. I can't think of
any problems right off in the crank area with temps in the 130's, in fact
the opposit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
12/30/02 14:41Duncan McBride
> Does the inspection that merits the yellow tag serve for the biennial check,
> too, or is that something else?
==============================
It means that the unit was inspected and it complies with the FAA/MFG specs
for its operational envelope. In other words the unit works no worse than a
brand new unit. The biennial chack simply means that the unit is still
within specs, normally as installed in the airplane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
12/30/02 16:36RFG842(at)aol.com
> When I started to fly, used to fly the four course ranges.
>
> How old does that make me?
>
> Bob G.
=================
Thats before my time, I'd say 1940's you'r probably in your 70's?
:-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Woods" <kolbpilot(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MKIII on a FSII trailer? |
Hey John,
Hated to see that Jeremy was selling his plane but glad to here it went to a worthy
person. Hope you enjoy it thoroughly.
Bill Woods
Protect your PC - Click here for McAfee.com
VirusScan Online
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mk III Radiator |
CaptainRon wrote:
> Well 130 is low but not bad, the most important temp would be your CHT. If
> they are runing within the normal range I would be happy. I can't think of
> any problems right off in the crank area with temps in the 130's, in fact
> the opposit.
Captain Ron/Gents:
Was wondering if Captain Ron's comments were based
on experience with the 582 or with GA aircooled
engines?
Maybe Arizona Dave should check his operator's
manual for the 582 and see what coolant temps
should be. If that doesn't work, and no one else
has anymore words of wisdom, recommend contacting
Kodiak Research (Rotax) and get their official
operating limits (green arch). Watercooled
engines (in general) that do not get up to
recommended operating temps usually do not produce
optimum power, nor do they do a good job of
burning fuel.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: BRS for a Mark-3 |
Hi Dennis and All,
There was a thread a while back about not mounting the chute between the
wings because it could be trapped by the wings if there is a structural
failure and the wings folded upwards. I don't know what Kolb recommends for
your plane but they told me to mount mine on the boom tube so it would fire
down and back. You may want to ask them before you buy as their answer may
influence which type of mount and pack system you need.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Message Bouncer for Spam |
Folks,
I stumbled upon a piece of software that performs a filter and will
"bounce" email messages based upon criteria which you can control. You run
it and it down loads a list of your mail messages and provides at status as
normal, spam, or possible spam. If your getting much Spam, this is the
thing you want. It shareware type distribution with a request for a very
moderate registration fee of $20, well worth it. You can get it at the
following URL.: jerb
http://www.mailwasher.net/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Why do you need a trasponder? I fly under Charlotte's Class B airspace and
into towered airports all the time without a transponder. I checked with the
local FSDO and they said the electrical on a Mark III is too small to
require a trasnponder. Check the archives for more on this.
Jim
Mark III
Charlotte, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Transponder
>
> I have 16 hours on my Mark III, and I'm contemplating the future when I
fly off the restriction. I'm going to need a practical (cheap) solution to
flying into Class C airspace, and would sure appreciate some advice. Are
used transponders a generally safe bet? Reconditioned? Even the sold as-is
units seem to command a good price, so either they hold their value because
they are pretty reliable, or else there are a lot of guys like me willing to
take a chance to save a few bucks keeping the prices up. What's been y'alls
experience?
>
> A related issue - where am I going to put the thing in my teeny little
panel? I'm thinking of a console I can bang my knee on, or an overhead I
can bang my head on....
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS for a Mark-3 |
I installed a canister BRS on my Mark III on top. I had to cut the gap seal
a little but it works ok.
Jim
Mark III
Charlotte, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
Subject: Kolb-List: BRS for a Mark-3
>
> Kolb Friends -
> I made the decision to install a BRS on my M3-Classic.
> Since I must fold/unfold the wings (and hence, remove the gap seal) for
each
> flight, I'm polling the list for which type of 'chute to install. The
> canister or softpack? It will be the 1050-lb rated BRS.
> Thanks for any suggestions ...
> Dennis Kirby
> Cedar Crest, NM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
>
>Why do you need a trasponder? I fly under Charlotte's Class B airspace and
>into towered airports all the time without a transponder. I checked with the
>local FSDO and they said the electrical on a Mark III is too small to
>require a trasnponder. Check the archives for more on this.
This was a mystery to me, so I spent a lot of research time figuring this
out. The FARs say: a transponder is required inside the Mode C veil for
CERTIFIED aircraft with an electric system.
Since our ultralights are not CERTIFIED, they don't have to meet the
requirement EVEN IF THEY HAVE A POWERFUL ELECTRICAL SYSTEM.
I'm still not 100% sure if this "loophole" applies to experimental
N-numbered aircraft, but I'm *pretty sure* it applies as well since
experimentals are not certified by the FAA.
So, you don't HAVE to have one to operate in the Mode C veil... however, if
you plan on going into Class D, C, or B airspace, you'd better have one.
-- Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick & Martha Neilsen" <neilsenrm(at)cs.com> |
I have been flying my Experimental (registered N numbered) MKIII without a
transponder from under a Mode C vail for 5 years. I have requested and
receive on a annual basis a waver to do so. I wrote a simple letter to the
control tower requesting the waver and indicated that my electrical system
would not safely handle the load of a transponder. No questions, augments,
or hassles, and its legal. Another option.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Robert Laird
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Transponder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy(at)lycos.com> |
Hi, I've put a few rows of duct tape at the" top" of the cooling fins , it helped
to hold some of the heat. I did it til the temp was a little hotter....
then I pulled some back off....it works.
Mike in MN FSII (close to the end of my fabric stage)
-
snip>>> I have a MK III and the original radiator couldn't
hack it for summertime flying
in southern Arizona, so we replaced it with an automotive
type. Works jess
fine, thank ewe, never getting over 180 degrees even on the
hottest days. But
now I'm flying in Prescott (5200') in the winter. Flew for
a couple of hours
on the 27th with the outside temp around 50 degrees. The
water temp never quite
reached 130 degrees. Question is, is there a problem here
with the engine
not getting hotter than this? It ran real fine but I'm a
bit concerned as to
whether or not I should install a thermostat. If so, what
do you guys recommend?---
Sometimes you just have to take the leap
and build your wings on the way down...
Gotta Fly...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trailer building |
Trailer Toters
Im in the final stages of building my Firefly trailer and was
hoping for some advice on level trailer heights. Maybe some warnings of what
I should look out for. It is enclosed and guestimated to weigh around
1500 lbs. I decided To go with a single torsion axle . It is almost a
replica of Duane da Planes. Mine is minus any windows. I was going to use 13"
wheels But I started thinking it might ride better on 15" tires. What is
the lowest trailer height I could use & not have to worry too much about
dragging the rear all the time? Opinions?
Ed Diebel ( Firefly ready for engine , waiting for
trailer to get finnished)
HAPPY NEW YEAR ALL!!!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net> |
ok guys, now you can help me make a decision on nap vents. i'am
going to install some snap vents on my kolb kxp single place and would
like to know to if i should go with 2" or 3"?... tapered or flush mount?
wicks aircraft has some nice ones on page 55 in there catalog. please
let me know the pros and cons on these..... i don't want to be sweating
next summer with my full enclosure.
thanks in advance,
Gary r. voigt
HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joel Reed" <jfreed(at)dejazzd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: air vents!!! |
Hello Gary, and all
I have the 3" snap vents on my Firestar which I installed last summer
and I do really like them, they are the one that are flush mounts, really
easy to install and really gave me all the air I needed, but not quite
enough on a hot summer day but better than nothing. maybe a pair would be
better. I just have one installed on the lower left of my lexan windshield.
I think if I would install another one on the other side it would help more.
Happy New Year everyone!!!!
Joel Reed
84 Firestar Lancaster Co, Pa
> ok guys, now you can help me make a decision on nap vents. i'am
> going to install some snap vents on my kolb kxp single place and would
> like to know to if i should go with 2" or 3"?... tapered or flush mount?
>
> wicks aircraft has some nice ones on page 55 in there catalog. please
> let me know the pros and cons on these..... i don't want to be sweating
> next summer with my full enclosure.
>
>
> thanks in advance,
> Gary r. voigt
>
> HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Re: air vents!!! |
Go with at least four 3" vents, plus a way to suck out the hot air. I had
four 3" vents last summer, and it was not enough. I will be modifying
things shortly, as last summer was intolerable at midday. You might want to
think about using reflective film on the top part of your windshield, or
some other way to reduce the "Enclosed Kolb Greenhouse Effect."
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> ok guys, now you can help me make a decision on nap vents. i'am
>going to install some snap vents on my kolb kxp single place and would
>like to know to if i should go with 2" or 3"?... tapered or flush mount?
>
>wicks aircraft has some nice ones on page 55 in there catalog. please
>let me know the pros and cons on these..... i don't want to be sweating
>next summer with my full enclosure.
>
>
> thanks in advance,
> Gary r. voigt
>
> HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: air vents!!! |
Good idea....................in a camper supply store I've seen a thin,
tinted plastic film that sticks to the window, kinda like those little oil
change reminders some shops put in the corner of your car's windshield.
Peel it off, and re-stick it where you want it. Might be handy.
Shady Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <rwpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: air vents!!!
>
> Go with at least four 3" vents, plus a way to suck out the hot air. I had
> four 3" vents last summer, and it was not enough. I will be modifying
> things shortly, as last summer was intolerable at midday. You might want
to
> think about using reflective film on the top part of your windshield, or
> some other way to reduce the "Enclosed Kolb Greenhouse Effect."
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> >
> >
> > ok guys, now you can help me make a decision on nap vents. i'am
> >going to install some snap vents on my kolb kxp single place and would
> >like to know to if i should go with 2" or 3"?... tapered or flush mount?
> >
> >wicks aircraft has some nice ones on page 55 in there catalog. please
> >let me know the pros and cons on these..... i don't want to be sweating
> >next summer with my full enclosure.
> >
> >
> > thanks in advance,
> > Gary r. voigt
> >
> > HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!!!
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trailer building |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trailer building |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trailer building |
Happy New Year to all!
I was pulling a travel trailer with a duel axial and blew one of the tires
while going down the freeway on a steep hill I didn't even know it until
someone driving next to me let me know I had a problem. If that had been a
single axial trailer I not only would have instantly known I had a flat tire
but would also have had the opportunity to see what a barrel roll looks like
from the front seat of a van and if we had survived that we would have gotten
to experience the joys of having to replace all of the damaged vehicles. I
now think of that second axial like I do my parachute - cheap insurance for
something I don't want to have to replace. Before that incident I never even
thought about the issue. Food for thought.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: air vents!!! |
> ok guys, now you can help me make a decision on nap vents.
> Gary r. voigt
Gary/Gang:
I have two 3 1/4" round snap vents in the fully
inclosed MK III. They work fine. In the Summer
in the SE it is hot, not matter if you have two or
22 vents, or no doors at all. I keep the doors
open during ground ops and climb for cooler air
when flying.
I initially bought the NASA vents to be "cool",
but they were not the $40+ I paid for them. They
got returned for the round snap vents.
We had the same two snap vents on the TH-55 Hughes
Helicopters during flight school 1968. Winter
flew with doors on and summer off. Did not make
any difference what the temps were.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: air vents!!! |
> Go with at least four 3" vents, plus a way to suck out the hot air.
> Richard Pike
God Morning Richard/Kolbers:
Happy New Year!!!
I thought about going with 4 vents for the 2001
flight to Alaska. However, decided to stay with
two. In two days flying I was in much cooler
country, across the border, and didn't need them.
Been flying the same set up for so long I am used
to it. Getting to old to change now. :-)
In reference to the "way to suck out the hot air",
will approach this one cautiously. I have 5 inch
lightening holes in the center section bulk head
plus the tail boom to exhaust hot air.
Up until 2000 I flew with no seals on the entrance
doors. Used some of the 3M book binding tape to
seal both doors. Did not realize until after I
had done it how much cool air was coming in
through the hinge line. In addition, it also
helps keep some of the rain out of the cabin.
Note: I said some. Rain seems to find its own
source of entrance and usually drips on me.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: air vents!!! |
OK
Where do we buy the 3" snap vents?
How much?
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: air vents!!!
>
>
> > ok guys, now you can help me make a decision on nap vents.
> > Gary r. voigt
>
> Gary/Gang:
>
> I have two 3 1/4" round snap vents in the fully
> inclosed MK III. They work fine. In the Summer
> in the SE it is hot, not matter if you have two or
> 22 vents, or no doors at all. I keep the doors
> open during ground ops and climb for cooler air
> when flying.
>
> I initially bought the NASA vents to be "cool",
> but they were not the $40+ I paid for them. They
> got returned for the round snap vents.
>
> We had the same two snap vents on the TH-55 Hughes
> Helicopters during flight school 1968. Winter
> flew with doors on and summer off. Did not make
> any difference what the temps were.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>Good idea....................in a camper supply store I've seen a thin,
>tinted plastic film that sticks to the window, kinda like those little oil
>change reminders some shops put in the corner of your car's windshield.
>Peel it off, and re-stick it where you want it. Might be handy.
>Shady Lar.
>
>Larry Bourne
You can get some stuff at auto supply stores too - tinted window film.
It doesn't have any adhesive on it though, but is like those "oil change
reminders", sort of clings to the windshield until you move it.
I cut two circles, one about 7 inch diameter, and one about 6 inch.
stick one on top of the other. On short or long trips, I can keep
most of sun out of my face while I can still see through the "Spot".
Easy too move and seems to cling without hurting the windshield.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: air vents!!! |
> Where do we buy the 3" snap vents?
> How much?
> Denny
Denny/Gang:
Try any of the aircraft parts supply houses. Less
than $5.00 unless inflation has gotten to them.
The instruction call for a 3 1/4" hole, or
something in that vicinity. I have found that if
I go about 1/16" or so smaller than what is called
for the vents work better. If the holes are too
large the vents don't stay put. Also, if drilled
as spec'ed, vibration will soon enlarge the holes
enough to loosen thing up.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave & Eve Pelletier" <pelletier(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailer building |
A suggestion for the tongue jack. My trailer has a drop down rear door and
I had clearance problems when taking the Kolb in or out. The problem is
when the front wheels (or back if you nose it in) start down the door to the
ground and the tail wheel is still in the trailer. The clearance between
the end of the trailer and the bottom of the folded wings becomes very small
and if you're not careful, hangar rash results. My solution was to get rid
of the standard tongue jack and weld on a "Bulldog" brand tongue jack -
7,000 capacity. The nice thing about this jack is you pull a pin and it
telescopes down to the ground. Reinsert the pin, and then you crank it up -
can get the nose of the trailer a lot higher, thereby reducing the angle
between the door and the floor of the trailer. I cut the long crank handle
off and shortened it and welded a 5/8" socket so the radius is much shorter
and easier to crank. Also, a 5/8" socket on my cordless drill runs it up
and down. Works pretty good.
Arizona Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: <DAquaNut(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Trailer building
>
> Trailer Toters
> Im in the final stages of building my Firefly trailer and was
> hoping for some advice on level trailer heights. Maybe some warnings of
what
> I should look out for. It is enclosed and guestimated to weigh around
> 1500 lbs. I decided To go with a single torsion axle . It is almost a
> replica of Duane da Planes. Mine is minus any windows. I was going to use
13"
> wheels But I started thinking it might ride better on 15" tires. What
is
> the lowest trailer height I could use & not have to worry too much about
> dragging the rear all the time? Opinions?
>
> Ed Diebel ( Firefly ready for engine , waiting for
> trailer to get finnished)
>
> HAPPY NEW YEAR ALL!!!!!!!!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave & Eve Pelletier" <pelletier(at)cableone.net> |
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the advice on my radiator. Now I've got some ideas I can try.
Arizona Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
fulltimer03(at)yahoo.com, rgintina424(at)yahoo.com, herbpenney(at)msn.com,
kolb-list(at)matronics.com, rckotow(at)dmv.com, molly.moyle(at)astrazeneca.com,
PHUNTER(at)prodigy.net, pnshate(at)dejazzd.com, jks(at)netcarrier.com,
reno(at)neainc.com, Tburns(at)wsd.k12.pa.us, weyoder-pnw(at)erols.com,
wayne.russo(at)verizon.net
| Subject: | Fwd: Fw: The Talking Dog thumbs |
> > > This guy sees a sign in front of a house: "Talking Dog for Sale." He
>rings
> > > the bell and the owner tells him the dog is in the back yard.
> > >
> > > The guy goes into the back yard and sees a mutt sitting there. "You
>talk?"
> > > he asks.
> > >
> > > "Yep, that's me," the mutt replies.
> > >
> > > "So, what's your story?"
> > >
> > > The old hound looks up and says, "Well, I discovered my gift pretty
>young
> > and
> > > I wanted to help the government, so I told the CIA about my talent,
>and
>in
> > no
> > > time they had me jetting from country to country, sitting in rooms
>with
> > spies
> > > and world leaders, because no one figured a dog would be
>eavesdropping.
>I
> > was
> > > one of their most valuable spies eight years running. I couldn't tell
>you
> > how
> > > many wars I helped prevent. "But, the jetting around really tired me
>out,
> > > and I knew I wasn't getting any younger and I wanted to settle down.
>So
>I
> > > signed up for a job at the airport to do some undercover security
>work,
> > > mostly wandering near suspicious characters and listening in. I
>uncovered
> > > some incredible dealings there ... and was awarded a batch of medals.
>"Had
> > a
> > > wife, a mess of puppies, and now I'm just retired."
> > >
> > > The guy is amazed. He goes into the house and asks the owner what he
>wants
> > > for the dog. "Ten bucks and he's yours," the owner says.
> > >
> > > "But this dog is amazing!" the guy exclaims. "Why on earth are you
>selling
> > > him and why so cheap?"
> > >
> > >
> > > "He's such a liar," the owner says. "He didn't do any of that shit."
> > >
> > >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailer building |
Dave, good idea ...i know what you mean...my kolb goes in nose first and if
i do
not lift the tail up i would also get hanger rash....i did not build my trailer
but
i bought it new.... i selected the one with a 4' beaver tail (at the end of course)
and it works great!!! also reduces the angle.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
Dave & Eve Pelletier wrote:
>
> A suggestion for the tongue jack. My trailer has a drop down rear door and
> I had clearance problems when taking the Kolb in or out. The problem is
> when the front wheels (or back if you nose it in) start down the door to the
> ground and the tail wheel is still in the trailer. The clearance between
> the end of the trailer and the bottom of the folded wings becomes very small
> and if you're not careful, hangar rash results. My solution was to get rid
> of the standard tongue jack and weld on a "Bulldog" brand tongue jack -
> 7,000 capacity. The nice thing about this jack is you pull a pin and it
> telescopes down to the ground. Reinsert the pin, and then you crank it up -
> can get the nose of the trailer a lot higher, thereby reducing the angle
> between the door and the floor of the trailer. I cut the long crank handle
> off and shortened it and welded a 5/8" socket so the radius is much shorter
> and easier to crank. Also, a 5/8" socket on my cordless drill runs it up
> and down. Works pretty good.
> Arizona Dave
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <DAquaNut(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Trailer building
>
> >
> > Trailer Toters
> > Im in the final stages of building my Firefly trailer and was
> > hoping for some advice on level trailer heights. Maybe some warnings of
> what
> > I should look out for. It is enclosed and guestimated to weigh around
> > 1500 lbs. I decided To go with a single torsion axle . It is almost a
> > replica of Duane da Planes. Mine is minus any windows. I was going to use
> 13"
> > wheels But I started thinking it might ride better on 15" tires. What
> is
> > the lowest trailer height I could use & not have to worry too much about
> > dragging the rear all the time? Opinions?
> >
> > Ed Diebel ( Firefly ready for engine , waiting for
> > trailer to get finnished)
> >
> > HAPPY NEW YEAR ALL!!!!!!!!
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: air vents!!! |
Fellows... you all had very good ideas and i'am going to go with the 3"
flush mount ones. one comment about the heat is i should have bought the
tinted lexan if it comes that way but i like to take some pics now and then &
i thought this might be a detriment to the view. also John can you tell me if
the binding tape is riveted to the hinge...i'am about to install the hinge
and was thinking of just putting a long piece of flexible plastic that i got
with enclosure for the hinge, i'am not sure what this is for but i assume it
is for some type of sealant for door or hinge.
thanks in advance,
Gary r. voigt
John Hauck wrote:
>
> > Where do we buy the 3" snap vents?
> > How much?
> > Denny
>
> Denny/Gang:
>
> Try any of the aircraft parts supply houses. Less
> than $5.00 unless inflation has gotten to them.
>
> The instruction call for a 3 1/4" hole, or
> something in that vicinity. I have found that if
> I go about 1/16" or so smaller than what is called
> for the vents work better. If the holes are too
> large the vents don't stay put. Also, if drilled
> as spec'ed, vibration will soon enlarge the holes
> enough to loosen thing up.
>
> john h
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "duesouth" <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailer building |
> > What is the lowest trailer height I could use & not have to worry too
much
> > about
> > dragging the rear all the time?
>
My official open Kolb trailer has enough room between the wheel support
plates and the road to put a piece of 2x4 under it. It looks scary but I
seldom drag it. Only time was driving around the hill at TNK last sept.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | INSTALLING THE SIDE BOW FOR ENCLOSURE!!! |
Gents, I'am about to install the side bow for the enclosure and on
my fs kxp 1 model but i do not have the gussets on the frame and need to
order a nut plate from wicks, however the 1990 copyright drawings that i
got from tnk co. don't show a good picture of how to install this
arrangement... it says to make a steel gusset out of .063 aluminum and
rivet it to the steel frame with 4 rivets, i can see how this should be
done but i'am uncertain which way the gusset & nut plate should
face...should i install this from the outside of the fabric or the
inside of the frame, confused.... could someone send me some pics or a
close-up of this arrangement so i can see how all this goes together. i
gotta get this thing in the air again... my last flight was in late
august and the ice is here for winter flying, today it is light
winds...grrrrr.
thanks in advance for your help...could not have done it without
you guys.
Gary r. voigt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: air vents!!! |
> also John can you tell me if
> the binding tape is riveted to the hinge...i'am about to install the hinge
> Gary r. voigt
Gary/Gang:
I installed book binding tape after hinge
installation and on top of them. Easy enough to
do and has lasted a couple years now.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Trailer building |
Thanks to all who who responded to my Trailer questions:
Now that I have made some final decisions I will need to find the least
expensive place to purchase some F78 -14 trailer Tires.
Thanks Again to All
Ed Diebel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
I don't have the part numbers. It's a BNC bulk head connector mounted to a
aluminum panel installed between the pilots feet which also serves as a
floor board in our case. The plate also serves as antenna ground
plane. We have a FireFly - had to drill a hole in the nose cone to connect
the external antenna to the connector. A step drill works great for this
purpose and making 1/4" holes or larger through thin material.
I made the antenna from a piece of music wire soldered to the center
conductor of a male (center pin) BNC connector. One note, music wire rust
- not sure if you can solder stainless other than silver soldering. The
antenna is installed on the under side of the nose cone. It is some where
around 20-21" in length and bent at about 6-8 inches from the connector to
form an approx. 45 degree angle.
----------------+--------------
\-----------
The antenna just twist locks onto the external side of the bulk head
connector. The coax from the radio has a like connector and connects to
the internal (pilot) side. I used Ethernet coax cable for the radio couple
reasons. It has a stranded center conductor which reduces center conductor
breaking and I can buy it preconnectorized in short lengths. It has proved
to work just fine. (Note know what coax cable your using, there are
different impedances, example CATV cable is 75 ohm, there are some RG-8
cable of 53-54 ohm, aviation com radios use 50 ohm variety which Ethernet
cable is.
On my Hawk we did it a little different. Got a whip from Radio Shack (long
wire with ball on the end) - and a holder which is a short round shaft with
a hole in it to accept the end of the whip and a set screw in the
side. You shouldn't have to buy an expensive kit, everything cost about
$10. The other end has a female UHF connector. A male UHF-female BNC
adapter (connector) screws on it to provide a BNC connection for connection
of the radio coax cable. The whip is bent like above. Both seem to work
equally well. If you need it I can go to the airport and verify the
distance from the connector where we bent the whip and get a close
length. We used a SWR meter to fine tune the antenna length to get a good
match between the transmitter and the antenna to reduce reflected
power. Most hams have one that will work for the 120 MHz range. Your
handheld radio on a good day on puts out 4-5 watts peak-peak so most will
handle the wattage.
If you have any further questions or need more detail, let me know.
jerb
>Can you give me the number of the bulk head connector used in your antenna
>installation.
>
>Is this a Radio Shack part?
>
>Jimmy Hankinson
>912-863-7384
>Rocky Ford, Ga. 30455
>jhankin(at)planters.net
>Kolb Firefly/447/240hrs
>Local field, Pegasus/2000/Grass
>Airport JYL/Sylvania, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tiffany Pitra <tif_qtra(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailer building |
Rubber torsion axle is the only way to go.Aluminum ramp door it lot lighter.
Thanks to all who who responded to my Trailer questions:
Now that I have made some final decisions I will need to find the least
expensive place to purchase some F78 -14 trailer Tires.
Thanks Again to All
Ed Diebel
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | kit bill of sale "Continued" |
Kolbers,
Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions on the string I started a couple weeks
ago "kit bill of sale", extra Kudos go to Lloyd O'Dell.
Lloyd suggested going the "more than 50% built from miscellaneous parts route"
on my 8050-88 form, instead of the kit built route.
After trying in vain to contact the previous owner of my Kolb (PARTs)"grin", I
gave the aircraft registration office another call today and floated Lloyds idea
to them.
There response was "no problemo".
My response was "Hallelujah"
So tommorow I hope to get myself, my Kolbs co-owner Jay Swagger, and our FAA forms
down to the notory and get this thing moving again .
Hopefully this tact will get it done.
Right now my suggestion to anyone who buys a kit, AKA miscellaneous parts from
a previous owner is this. Do not register your aircraft as being built from
a kit, instead list it as being built from parts. This simplifys the paper trail
you need to construct for the Feds.
If you look at all the receipts from the parts you buy in addition to the original
kits, this is what we pretty much all do anyway.
Thanks Lloyd!
Wish me luck,
Denny Rowe
Mk-3 N616DR
near completion, maybe next month
Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Jones" <kevin-jones(at)snet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cold weather gear for hands |
I got this from a contractor who works out doors during the winter. He
says, put on a pair of medical gloves (steal them at your next visit to a
Doctor's office) and then put your gloves over them. He says the latex
gloves keep the warmth from your hands inside them. I haven't tried this but
maybe someone will try it.
kj
----- Original Message -----
From: <TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Cold weather gear for hands
>
> Leather gloves with the army type wool glove inserts fit tight and
insulate
> nicely.
>
> Dave
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Hows the 532 From old Poops |
Richard,
How are you doing with the failure analysis on your Rotax?
We need somthing technical quick, we are suffering from lack of info exchange.
:-)
Linda has me hanging light fixtures, how boring.
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
> I have decided to attempt to stiffin the wings due to the warpage created
by the ailerons....I am thinking of adding a lift strut to the rear "spar"
and adding some reinforcment to the full ribs.....any ideas?
> Ed in Western NY
Morning Ed/Gang:
My old Ultrastar, March 1984, had needed the
Firestar mod on the inboard wing rib, i.e., the
ring rather than the two small tubes sticking into
the main spar top and bottom.
Also needed a couple more ribs, maybe 7 instead of
5. Would not hurt to reinforce nose and tail of
the main ribs with 1/2" and 3/4" aluminum angle.
Homer designed the Ultrastar, as he did all his
airplanes, for slow flight. To me, the Ultrastar
was one of the best slow flyers. Mine would fly
at 25 mph indicated on the venturi operated Winter
ASI. As long as the needle was on the 25 mph tick
mark, she was flying. If it got a needle width
off the mark, it was mushing. Those big barn door
flaps would control roll right through the
mush/stall. Did it so well, many folks clobbered
them in, right to the ground, in a full mush. Saw
that happen on three seperate occassions. Pilots
walked away unscathed but embarassed. I think I
would experiment by cutting the aileron cord in
half. Might even be able to go shorter than that
on the aileron cord, and still be in full roll
control.
john h
PS: Got some flight time in yesterday, after I
changed oil in the 912S. Plan on getting some
more this afternoon when it warms up a bit. Temps
were 50F on the ground and 40F at 3000 feet.
Should be warmer today. If it warms up too much,
I will have no excuse for not washing the London,
KY, mud and Gantt Int AP dust and cow crap off
Miss P'fer. She flew well hauling mud, dust and
manure yesterday.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Pruitt" <fpruitt(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | transporting a Firestar |
Hi,
I am in the process of buying a 1990 Firestar. It is located in the State
of Washington, and I live in Colorado. I also purchased a enclosed trailer
to transport it in. My question is will I do any damage to the Firestar by
transporting it 1200 miles with the wings folded? Should I remove the wings
and fasten them somehow inside the trailer? I just want to be sure that I
arrive in Colorado without damaging the plane. Any help in this matter
would be greatly appreciated. I am to pick it up the 16th of January, so if
I need to do anything special, I need to get started on it ASAP.
Frank Pruitt
fpruitt(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Being flying almost every day for the last two weeks |
Greetings,
For the last two weeks I have been helping a friend put together (not build)
an X-Air so when we start getting into each others way we just go flying.
http://members.aol.com/cesaru/
I think Raul, in December, put about 40 hours on his Firestar.
This is a picture of Dave Rains and Raul flying formation, I took the picture
with a zoom lens.
http://www.members.aol.com/willuribe/pic01.jpg
Kolb country
http://www.members.aol.com/willuribe/pic02.jpg
First question; The picture was taken this past Saturday.
2nd question; The picture was taken over Soledad Canyon on the New
Mexico-Tejas border.
3rd question; No cold feet, we are in the desert south west and where the
state doesn't charge us taxes on our airplanes or ultralights. The picture
was taken from the side where the sun doesn't shine that is why the snow has
not melted but the sun was keeping us warm.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Korenek" <ken-foi(at)attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 01/03/03
>
> WillUribe(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > http://members.aol.com/uguribe/pic01.jpg
> >
> > Will Uribe
> > El Paso, TX
> > FireStar II N4GU
> > C-172 N2506U
>
> Will,
>
>=A0=A0 Three questions;=A0 when was the picture taken, where was the picture
> taken and how cold were your feet?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: transporting a Firestar |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Frank,
The problem with transporting the Firestar that great distance is the
weight of the folded wings on the fiberglass or aluminum tailwheel rod.
This supports the tailwheel and if it cracks or breaks, the wings will
get damaged. If you don't want to remove the wings from the plane, you
can unhitch them, swing them out a bit, and use foam underneath to secure
the top and bottom of the outboard ends to the trailer sides. Don't
forget to secure the tailwheel or it with slide into the wings on the
first turn. Another option is to keep the wings hitched and support the
fuselage tube in a cradle lined with foam or carpet secured to the bed of
the trailer. This last method is how I trailer mine to the local field.
Be very careful when hitching and unhitching those wings as they are very
prone to damage. If they are dropped or allowed to scrape on the pavement
it will be very visible when the plane is ready to fly. There are many
Firestar wings that have been damaged this way. Using foam canoe mounts
on the leading edge is very useful.
Ralph
Original Firestar
writes:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I am in the process of buying a 1990 Firestar. It is located in the
> State
> of Washington, and I live in Colorado. I also purchased a enclosed
> trailer
> to transport it in. My question is will I do any damage to the
> Firestar by
> transporting it 1200 miles with the wings folded? Should I remove
> the wings
> and fasten them somehow inside the trailer? I just want to be sure
> that I
> arrive in Colorado without damaging the plane. Any help in this
> matter
> would be greatly appreciated. I am to pick it up the 16th of
> January, so if
> I need to do anything special, I need to get started on it ASAP.
>
>
> Frank Pruitt
>
> fpruitt(at)earthlink.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Pruitt" <fpruitt(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | transporting a Firestar |
Ralph,
Thank you very much for the information. Sounds like I could have done some
damage to the plane had I just driven away. I think that I will do the
fuselage tube cradle, as that would seem to protect the tailwheel assembly
Frank
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: transporting a Firestar
Frank,
The problem with transporting the Firestar that great distance is the
weight of the folded wings on the fiberglass or aluminum tailwheel rod.
This supports the tailwheel and if it cracks or breaks, the wings will
get damaged. If you don't want to remove the wings from the plane, you
can unhitch them, swing them out a bit, and use foam underneath to secure
the top and bottom of the outboard ends to the trailer sides. Don't
forget to secure the tailwheel or it with slide into the wings on the
first turn. Another option is to keep the wings hitched and support the
fuselage tube in a cradle lined with foam or carpet secured to the bed of
the trailer. This last method is how I trailer mine to the local field.
Be very careful when hitching and unhitching those wings as they are very
prone to damage. If they are dropped or allowed to scrape on the pavement
it will be very visible when the plane is ready to fly. There are many
Firestar wings that have been damaged this way. Using foam canoe mounts
on the leading edge is very useful.
Ralph
Original Firestar
writes:
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I am in the process of buying a 1990 Firestar. It is located in the
> State
> of Washington, and I live in Colorado. I also purchased a enclosed
> trailer
> to transport it in. My question is will I do any damage to the
> Firestar by
> transporting it 1200 miles with the wings folded? Should I remove
> the wings
> and fasten them somehow inside the trailer? I just want to be sure
> that I
> arrive in Colorado without damaging the plane. Any help in this
> matter
> would be greatly appreciated. I am to pick it up the 16th of
> January, so if
> I need to do anything special, I need to get started on it ASAP.
>
>
> Frank Pruitt
>
> fpruitt(at)earthlink.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net> |
I am spending much of my time now just trying to figure out what to do next on
my Mark IIIXtra. Maybe I can stir up some action on this list. Otherwise, I
will start my Lexan installation and fabric covering next.
First for Bill Futrell, have you moved to FL yet? I noticed your test message
on the board. My question to you is on attaching the Xtra doors. There are no
instructions on my plans on the hole drilling or hardware to connect the tabs
on the doors with the welded tubes on the fuselage. A second question for Bill
and Richard Pike, how did you handle the area of the bow between the top
of the windshield and the gap seal? Somewhere in the archives, a mention was
made of rubber strip and aluminum piece from Kolb to finish this area. I am planning
a fixed gap seal with some soundproofing under it (and behind the seats).
For Steven Green, I would like some more details on your aluminum fuel tank (could
you send me pictures?). Steven, you recently mentioned that you would get
the BRS VLS model instead of the canister if you had it to do over again. I
am wondering if there is any significant overall aerodynamic gain with the VLS,
since the engine just behind it is so "dirty". The VLS is slightly more expensive
and has a 4 year repack vs. 6 yrs for the canister. Since my gap seal
will be fixed like Richard Pike's, maybe I can make a fairing in front of the
canister and alongside the engine to have less drag. But then do you worry about
restricted airflow around the engine and overheating?
Thanks in advance,
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
2 yrs building
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: transporting a Firestar |
Frank: What ever you do, don't take those wings off and lay them flat on the=0D
trailer. Doesn't work. The cradle on the fuselage is the best and
protection on=0D
the leading edge of the wings at the ends. I transported a challenger from=0D
Seattle to Arkansas and the vibration of the road worked everything loose =0D
as you couldn't put enough pressure on the wings without damaging them=0D
to counter the road vibration. Something big and spongy under the wheels=0D
boxed in will help too. Straps over the wheels or axels to hold them down
agains =0D
the foam helps a lot. Frequent checks as the vibration is really bad.
Lots =0D
of tie downs. =0D
Dallas Shepherd=0D
Norfork, Arkansas =0D
=0D
-------Original Message-------=0D
=0D
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com=0D
Date: Sunday, January 05, 2003 10:40:11=0D
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: transporting a Firestar=0D
=0D
=0D
Frank,=0D
=0D
The problem with transporting the Firestar that great distance is the=0D
weight of the folded wings on the fiberglass or aluminum tailwheel rod.=0D
This supports the tailwheel and if it cracks or breaks, the wings will=0D
get damaged. If you don't want to remove the wings from the plane, you=0D
can unhitch them, swing them out a bit, and use foam underneath to secure=0D
the top and bottom of the outboard ends to the trailer sides. Don't=0D
forget to secure the tailwheel or it with slide into the wings on the=0D
first turn. Another option is to keep the wings hitched and support the=0D
fuselage tube in a cradle lined with foam or carpet secured to the bed of=0D
the trailer. This last method is how I trailer mine to the local field.=0D
Be very careful when hitching and unhitching those wings as they are very=0D
prone to damage. If they are dropped or allowed to scrape on the pavement=0D
it will be very visible when the plane is ready to fly. There are many=0D
Firestar wings that have been damaged this way. Using foam canoe mounts=0D
on the leading edge is very useful.=0D
=0D
Ralph=0D
Original Firestar=0D
=0D
=0D
writes:=0D
> =0D
> =0D
> Hi,=0D
> =0D
> I am in the process of buying a 1990 Firestar. It is located in the =0D
> State=0D
> of Washington, and I live in Colorado. I also purchased a enclosed =0D
> trailer=0D
> to transport it in. My question is will I do any damage to the =0D
> Firestar by=0D
> transporting it 1200 miles with the wings folded? Should I remove =0D
> the wings=0D
> and fasten them somehow inside the trailer? I just want to be sure =0D
> that I=0D
> arrive in Colorado without damaging the plane. Any help in this =0D
> matter=0D
> would be greatly appreciated. I am to pick it up the 16th of =0D
> January, so if=0D
> I need to do anything special, I need to get started on it ASAP.=0D
> =0D
> =0D
> Frank Pruitt=0D
> =0D
> fpruitt(at)earthlink.net=0D
> =0D
> =0D
>=0D
>=0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=2E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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: transporting a Firestar |
In a message dated 1/5/03 11:56:25 AM Eastern Standard Time,
fpruitt(at)earthlink.net writes:
> . I think that I will do the
> fuselage tube cradle, as that would seem to protect the tailwheel assembly
>
> Frank
>
>
Don't do just the cradle; get a big roll of foam [I used an "egg-crate" foam
mattress]
& put it under the LE of the wings about 2' in front of the tailwheel to take
most of the load off the fold bracket.
Also, nail or screw 2 X 4 blocks front, back, & sides of the main wheels with
some strapping or ropes under the blocks & over the axle fittings to
immobilize the wheels.
Also, immobilize any "extras" such as boxes so they don't get against your
lovely Firestar & knock a hole in your wing [don't ask].
Don't drive too fast & check your load every 100 miles or so.
Good luck
Shack
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Winter flying fun |
My daughter was visiting for the holiday and agreed to come out and shoot a few
pictures for me the other day, and heeeeeeere they are!
http://www.hiperlightaircraft.com/kolb/winter_fun
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
| Subject: | Rotax 532 mystery clearing somewhat |
"Curioser and curioser said Alice..."
Pressure checked the crankcase - perfect.
Only thing left to check was the rotary valve timing, - guess what?
Did you know a Rotax 532 will still turn 4,700 RPM with the rotary valve
timing retarded 115 degrees? So now I know where the gremlin is hiding,
it's time to pull the cases open, examine the rotary valve shaft and gears
and figure out why and how the thing jumped time.
Anybody with any similar occurances?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
>A
>second question for Bill and Richard Pike, how did you handle the area of
>the bow between the top of the windshield and the gap seal? Somewhere in
>the archives, a mention was made of rubber strip and aluminum piece from
>Kolb to finish this area. I am planning a fixed gap seal with some
>soundproofing under it (and behind the seats).
Not applicable to my current situation, but originally I used a rubber
molding channel, extended the windshield past the metal loop by about 3/4",
and glued on a rubber piece, Aircraft Spruce part # 05-01300, top of page
126 in the 2001-2002 catalog. It closed the gap up.
>
>Since my gap seal will be fixed like Richard Pike's, maybe I can make a
>fairing in front of the canister and alongside the engine to have less drag.
> But then do you worry about restricted airflow around the engine and
>overheating?
Make it out of balsa wood, use it to fair the air around the engine
smoothly. If it is a water cooled 582 or similar, don't worry about it,
cooling is from the radiator, not ambient airflow. As long as there is some
airflow, it will be fine. Be careful if you fully cowl it, the exhaust
gives off tons of heat, that is the only problem. My J-6 was fully cowled,
the big Rotax muffler was the only problem, the engine was fine fully
cowled, Vince Nicely's Rotax 582 Sonerai is fully cowled, very tight, and
cools great.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420p (420ldPoops)
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Clay Stuart
>Danville KY
>2 yrs building
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
This is my 2nd test today. I seem to have been bumped from the List. Tried re-subscribing
this morning, but still no results, and my 1st test didn't come thru.
If I AM coming thru, could someone please email me off List ?? Thanks.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>This is my 2nd test today. I seem to have been bumped from the
>List. Tried re-subscribing this morning, but still no results, and my 1st
>test didn't come thru. If I AM coming thru, could someone please email
>me off List ?? Thanks. Lar.
>
It's still not working Lar, but keep trying!!
>=====================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford Tuton" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
I didn't get it either, Lar... Right after Possum didn't get it.... Hope
this helps...
Beauford
----- Original Message -----
From: "possums" <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Test
>
> >
> >This is my 2nd test today. I seem to have been bumped from the
> >List. Tried re-subscribing this morning, but still no results, and my
1st
> >test didn't come thru. If I AM coming thru, could someone please email
> >me off List ?? Thanks. Lar.
> >
>
>
> It's still not working Lar, but keep trying!!
>
> >=====================================================================
>
>
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Biglar--sumthin wrong w/ yer address! Tried you off line and bounced
BN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Lightweight stove |
Lightweight Stove
While this application is intended for lightening equipment for camping it
is also extremely suitable for Ultra lights, or survival equipment, since
every ounce counts. My stove and pot with lid weighs in at 8.5 oz. The
stove burns Denatured Alcohol, and will burn for approximately 30 minutes on
one fluid ounce of fuel. Boiling 2 cups of water in eight minutes. That will
allow you to cook for instance "Top Ramen", or coffee for that matter. The
cost for this little jewel is $.10 cents. It is made by cutting two soda
cans and sticking them together. One is cut about a 1/8 inch from the
bottom. The other is cut about 2 inches from the bottom of the other can.
The smallest bottom is placed "bottom up" on a flat surface. ( I prefer to
"JB weld" the two together, to make sure that they do not leak) Then the
biggest "bottom" is placed "bottom up"over the first. Then pin holes are
punched around the edge of the upturned bottom, I use a thumb tack. A hole
is placed in the center of the upturned bottom for a filler hole. Make it
small enough that a screw can cut threads into it. This will allow you to
plug the filler hole after you have filled the stove. A piece of 1/4 inch
hardware cloth about two inches wide, a piece of "flashing" the same size,
two paper clips and you are in business.
The hardware cloth is coiled to fit the bottom of your pot, paper clips
hold it to size, the flashing is then put inside the circle to keep the wind
from blowing your flame all over. The pot sets on top of the hardware cloth,
with your stove inside the hardware cloth. Fill your stove, reinsert the
screw plug, pour the cavity on the top of the stove full of fuel, light it
up. The stove has to have the fuel heated for it to turn to vapor so that it
will light and burn. This is the function of the fuel on top. Once the fuel
is heated it will cause the vapor to come out the holes around the top and
make a nice hot cooking fire just like a regular gas stove. Once it has
started burning, you will have to let it burn out.
While I would like to tell you that I thought of the whole thing by
myself, that would be untrue. It is borrowed from a friend that helps the
Boy Scouts with their camping trips and activities. I do not know just where
it originates, but I do know a good thing when I see it. Try it you will be
amazed. You will notice that I "made" a jig to do my cuts. You can of course
do the cuts with a pair of scissors, however scoring the can with a
cardboard cutter until the can begins to separate is a much cleaner method.
JB Weld will alleviate this requirement however.
I will post pictures to the Photo share for those that would like to see it.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Winter flying fun |
Nice pics Ken. If I may make a suggestion crop and enlarge the important
parts of the pic before posting them. It is a lot easier and faster for us
dial up modem guys to see them. I'll have to get over and see your Kolb in
person some day
>
>My daughter was visiting for the holiday and agreed to come out and shoot
>a few pictures for me the other day, and heeeeeeere they are!
>
>http://www.hiperlightaircraft.com/kolb/winter_fun
>
>-Ken Fackler
>Mark II / 503
>Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
>
>Woody and kurious kolbers, yes, as far as I know--and a lie-down four
>banger too. -Only one caveat, you would have to rig your own mount.
>When I bought my redrive Jeron (Raven) persuaded me to use the
>upright since they had everything designed and ready to go. Since both
>versions stop about the same amount of air, the only advantage would be
>a possible lower thrust line if you use a shorter prop. -BB
I think the lie down 4 just looks "neater". What was your total cost to
get this drive system ready to go?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RWilliJill(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lightweight stove |
Larry
I would like to see a picture of this device.
Were do I access photoshare?
Thanks
Ron W
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <peterv(at)etsmiami.com> |
A few of us went for a fruitshake via ultralight today to "Robert is
Here <http://lafa.com/Photos/Robert%20is%20Here/001.jpg> "
Had to land in a dirt field and taxi through ploughed fields to get to
the place.
http://lafa.com/Photos/Robert%20is%20Here/005.jpg
http://lafa.com/Photos/Robert%20is%20Here/006.jpg
Kolb to Kolb pics taken on the way home:
http://lafa.com/Photos/Robert%20is%20Here/008.jpg
http://lafa.com/Photos/Robert%20is%20Here/010.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lightweight stove |
>
> Larry
> I would like to see a picture of this device.
> Were do I access photoshare?
>
>
> Thanks
> Ron W
>
I just posted them to the photo share tonight. They should show up soon, or
if you can't wait I can email them to you off list. I have reduced them to
email size.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
>>
>>
>>
For my 1 liter 3 cyl, about $3000 total including the cut down
pan /dry sump, remote tank, mounts, redrive, exhaust, bought
separately-carb,
radiator. Raven strongly recommends the geo fuel injection and they're
right.
It's just that I'm a knothead and had to design a carb system of my own.
I don't have any illusions about it being a super powerhouse, I don't need
that. Just a nice easy starting, smooth running , very reliable and low
maintenance mill. Once it's finished I just want to fly, not fix.-BB
>>
>>
>
> I think the lie down 4 just looks "neater". What was your total cost to
>get this drive system ready to go?
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wood, John T." <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
I purchased a Facet pump to supplement the Rotax's pulse pump. My problem is
no matter where I locate the pump it will not prime the lines to the
Carburetor. In a test of the pump outside the system, the pump appears to
push the gas just fine. The instructions talk about air in the system may
keep the pump from priming. If this is the case how can the facet replace
the squeeze bulb? How does the facet pump differ from the squeeze bulb in
pushing the fuel through the air filled lines? I have check out the
archives. Did not find a solution to my question.
John Wood
Firestar N670JW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
The Facet needs to be at the lowest point in the system, and gravity fed.
If your fuel line exits your tank from the top, you may be up the creek.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>I purchased a Facet pump to supplement the Rotax's pulse pump. My problem is
>no matter where I locate the pump it will not prime the lines to the
>Carburetor. In a test of the pump outside the system, the pump appears to
>push the gas just fine. The instructions talk about air in the system may
>keep the pump from priming. If this is the case how can the facet replace
>the squeeze bulb? How does the facet pump differ from the squeeze bulb in
>pushing the fuel through the air filled lines? I have check out the
>archives. Did not find a solution to my question.
>
>John Wood
>Firestar N670JW
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
I have a Facet on my MK III mounted below the gas tanks and my fuel lines
exit from the top of the tank. It has worked fine from day one.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Facet Pump
The Facet needs to be at the lowest point in the system, and gravity fed.
If your fuel line exits your tank from the top, you may be up the creek.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>I purchased a Facet pump to supplement the Rotax's pulse pump. My problem
is
>no matter where I locate the pump it will not prime the lines to the
>Carburetor. In a test of the pump outside the system, the pump appears to
>push the gas just fine. The instructions talk about air in the system may
>keep the pump from priming. If this is the case how can the facet replace
>the squeeze bulb? How does the facet pump differ from the squeeze bulb in
>pushing the fuel through the air filled lines? I have check out the
>archives. Did not find a solution to my question.
>
>John Wood
>Firestar N670JW
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <peterv(at)etsmiami.com> |
John, do you have the pump installed below the fuel tank?
If I remember correctly, when I installed mine that was one of the
installation requirements.
I think that air in the line BEFORE the pump can be a problem, but after
the pump they shouldn't be. At least, in my set-up air in the line
after the pump hasn't impeded the flow.
Peter
I purchased a Facet pump to supplement the Rotax's pulse pump. My
problem is
no matter where I locate the pump it will not prime the lines to the
Carburetor.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <peterv(at)etsmiami.com> |
My fuel tank exits from the top, but the fuel line then goes down to
below the base of the tank before entering the pump. This ensures the
required positive (gravity fed) pressure to the pump at all times.
Provided the line remains primed, it makes no difference if your line
comes out of the top or bottom of the tank. IMHO, if you use plastic
tanks, top is better than bottom as it eliminates the chance of leakage.
Peter Volum
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Pike
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Facet Pump
The Facet needs to be at the lowest point in the system, and gravity
fed.
If your fuel line exits your tank from the top, you may be up the creek.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>I purchased a Facet pump to supplement the Rotax's pulse pump. My
problem is
>no matter where I locate the pump it will not prime the lines to the
>Carburetor. In a test of the pump outside the system, the pump appears
to
>push the gas just fine. The instructions talk about air in the system
may
>keep the pump from priming. If this is the case how can the facet
replace
>the squeeze bulb? How does the facet pump differ from the squeeze bulb
in
>pushing the fuel through the air filled lines? I have check out the
>archives. Did not find a solution to my question.
>
>John Wood
>Firestar N670JW
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dama(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil injection |
I have a pump from a 503 that has never been used. Give me an email at
dama(at)mindspring.com for more deatls.
Thanks,
Kip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)preferred.com> |
OK, I obviously missed it on that one - question:
Will the Facet draw the fuel up, over and down to itself and then keep the
flow going, or does it need to have fuel in the lines to itself (primed)
before it starts to work?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>I have a Facet on my MK III mounted below the gas tanks and my fuel lines
>exit from the top of the tank. It has worked fine from day one.
>
>Terry
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Facet Pump
>
>
>The Facet needs to be at the lowest point in the system, and gravity fed.
>If your fuel line exits your tank from the top, you may be up the creek.
>
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>>
>>I purchased a Facet pump to supplement the Rotax's pulse pump. My problem
>is
>>no matter where I locate the pump it will not prime the lines to the
>>Carburetor. In a test of the pump outside the system, the pump appears to
>>push the gas just fine. The instructions talk about air in the system may
>>keep the pump from priming. If this is the case how can the facet replace
>>the squeeze bulb? How does the facet pump differ from the squeeze bulb in
>>pushing the fuel through the air filled lines? I have check out the
>>archives. Did not find a solution to my question.
>>
>>John Wood
>>Firestar N670JW
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
I think it will. I don't remember priming the lines the first time I fired
mine up and I have never run it out of gas, thank goodness. I did change
the plumbing one time, so I had the lines disconnected and I didn't do
anything special to get it pumping again.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Facet Pump
OK, I obviously missed it on that one - question:
Will the Facet draw the fuel up, over and down to itself and then keep the
flow going, or does it need to have fuel in the lines to itself (primed)
before it starts to work?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>I have a Facet on my MK III mounted below the gas tanks and my fuel lines
>exit from the top of the tank. It has worked fine from day one.
>
>Terry
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Facet Pump
>
>
>The Facet needs to be at the lowest point in the system, and gravity fed.
>If your fuel line exits your tank from the top, you may be up the creek.
>
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>>
>>I purchased a Facet pump to supplement the Rotax's pulse pump. My problem
>is
>>no matter where I locate the pump it will not prime the lines to the
>>Carburetor. In a test of the pump outside the system, the pump appears to
>>push the gas just fine. The instructions talk about air in the system may
>>keep the pump from priming. If this is the case how can the facet replace
>>the squeeze bulb? How does the facet pump differ from the squeeze bulb in
>>pushing the fuel through the air filled lines? I have check out the
>>archives. Did not find a solution to my question.
>>
>>John Wood
>>Firestar N670JW
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wood, John T." <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
Thanks for the responses to my Facet problem. I have tried the pump both
above and below the tank and it still did not work. That is what prompted me
to seek advise from the experts. Based on your responses it seems that I
might have a bad pump. I purchaed the lowest pressure pump. Maybe I need
more pressure to overcome the air in the lines?
John Wood
Firestar N670JW
-----Original Message-----
From: Terry [mailto:tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net]
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Facet Pump
I think it will. I don't remember priming the lines the first time I fired
mine up and I have never run it out of gas, thank goodness. I did change
the plumbing one time, so I had the lines disconnected and I didn't do
anything special to get it pumping again.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Facet Pump
OK, I obviously missed it on that one - question:
Will the Facet draw the fuel up, over and down to itself and then keep the
flow going, or does it need to have fuel in the lines to itself (primed)
before it starts to work?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>I have a Facet on my MK III mounted below the gas tanks and my fuel lines
>exit from the top of the tank. It has worked fine from day one.
>
>Terry
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Facet Pump
>
>
>The Facet needs to be at the lowest point in the system, and gravity fed.
>If your fuel line exits your tank from the top, you may be up the creek.
>
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>>
>>I purchased a Facet pump to supplement the Rotax's pulse pump. My problem
>is
>>no matter where I locate the pump it will not prime the lines to the
>>Carburetor. In a test of the pump outside the system, the pump appears to
>>push the gas just fine. The instructions talk about air in the system may
>>keep the pump from priming. If this is the case how can the facet replace
>>the squeeze bulb? How does the facet pump differ from the squeeze bulb in
>>pushing the fuel through the air filled lines? I have check out the
>>archives. Did not find a solution to my question.
>>
>>John Wood
>>Firestar N670JW
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
> I think it will. I don't remember priming the lines the first time I fired
> Terry
Terry/Gang:
I use and have used the Facet pump in several
applications:
Rotax 447 (auxilary)
582 "
912 "
912S "
Onan 4 kw generator (primary)
Ford 351W marine engine (auxilary)
All have been self priming. The Onan pulls fuel
from an aux tank in the front of my Dodge/Cummins
truck bed to the rear where the Onan is
permanently installed. No problems with any of
them other than salt water corrosion in the boat
and that was because of the location I picked out
to install it. Lesson learned. :-)
Don't buy a no name look alike product from JC
Whitney and expect it to perform like a Facet. I
have already done that and learned the hard way.
Facet also sells under the Purolator brand name.
john h (Got out and exercised Miss P'fer this
weekend. 1.4 hrs Sat and 4.1 hours Sun. Felt
good!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry" <tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net> |
Stay with the low pressure so you don't overpower the float valve.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wood, John T.
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Facet Pump
Thanks for the responses to my Facet problem. I have tried the pump both
above and below the tank and it still did not work. That is what prompted me
to seek advise from the experts. Based on your responses it seems that I
might have a bad pump. I purchaed the lowest pressure pump. Maybe I need
more pressure to overcome the air in the lines?
John Wood
Firestar N670JW
-----Original Message-----
From: Terry [mailto:tswartz(at)hydrosoft.net]
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Facet Pump
I think it will. I don't remember priming the lines the first time I fired
mine up and I have never run it out of gas, thank goodness. I did change
the plumbing one time, so I had the lines disconnected and I didn't do
anything special to get it pumping again.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Facet Pump
OK, I obviously missed it on that one - question:
Will the Facet draw the fuel up, over and down to itself and then keep the
flow going, or does it need to have fuel in the lines to itself (primed)
before it starts to work?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>I have a Facet on my MK III mounted below the gas tanks and my fuel lines
>exit from the top of the tank. It has worked fine from day one.
>
>Terry
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Facet Pump
>
>
>The Facet needs to be at the lowest point in the system, and gravity fed.
>If your fuel line exits your tank from the top, you may be up the creek.
>
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>>
>>I purchased a Facet pump to supplement the Rotax's pulse pump. My problem
>is
>>no matter where I locate the pump it will not prime the lines to the
>>Carburetor. In a test of the pump outside the system, the pump appears to
>>push the gas just fine. The instructions talk about air in the system may
>>keep the pump from priming. If this is the case how can the facet replace
>>the squeeze bulb? How does the facet pump differ from the squeeze bulb in
>>pushing the fuel through the air filled lines? I have check out the
>>archives. Did not find a solution to my question.
>>
>>John Wood
>>Firestar N670JW
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
> I purchaed the lowest pressure pump. Maybe I need
> more pressure to overcome the air in the lines?
>
> John Wood
John W/Gents:
I am no Facet expert, but pressure regulation does
not seem to be your problem.
If you are unsure about the pump, pull it out,
plumb it with a pick up and discharge hose. Wire
it up and see if, in fact it will pump fuel. You
can raise it and lower it depending on how much
hose you plumb to it for your experiment.
I assume the pump is operating (getting the
rattatatta noise) but not self priming and pumping
fuel from the discharge line.
Someone indicated the pump would shut off when it
reached the regulated pressure. None of my Facets
shut down at that point. They continue to operate
even after reaching regulated pressure point.
Make sure you have not air leaks in your lines.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <peterv(at)etsmiami.com> |
I didn't have to prime the first time on my set-up either. Even if the
auxiliary Facet pump wasn't self-priming, wouldn't the fuel line
self-prime as a result of the main pump doing its work during the
initial cranking? This may take some time the first time, but after
that the lines would remain primed and the Facet pump would do its job
from the start.
Before changing pumps to a higher pressure model make sure you check the
engine manual so you don't exceed the maximum pressure it is designed to
work with. You don't want gas to start spewing out.
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Facet Pump
I think it will. I don't remember priming the lines the first time I
fired
mine up and I have never run it out of gas, thank goodness. I did
change
the plumbing one time, so I had the lines disconnected and I didn't do
anything special to get it pumping again.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard Pike
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Facet Pump
OK, I obviously missed it on that one - question:
Will the Facet draw the fuel up, over and down to itself and then keep
the
flow going, or does it need to have fuel in the lines to itself (primed)
before it starts to work?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Neitzel" <neitzel(at)newnorth.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron and flap hinges |
Greetings
I am in the process of mating the ailerons and flaps to the recently completed
wings. The manual on the subject seems straight forward but does anyone have
any hints that will aid in the needed accuracy of hinge placement?
Thank you ahead of time.
Dick Neitzel
Sayner WI
Mark III
neitzel(at)newnorth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
John and All,
You may want to consider adding a pressure regulator to your fuel system when
you are adding an electric aux fuel pump.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
> You may want to consider adding a pressure regulator to your fuel system when
> you are adding an electric aux fuel pump.
>
> Steve
Steve/Gents:
I personally have not found a pressure regulator
necessary in any of the applications I have used
the Facet as an aux pump.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron and flap hinges |
Dick,
Take a look at how I did it on the wing attachment page of my web site...it
is page 3 or 4.
To get the 3 hinges EXACTLY even with each other on my firefly, I made some
tblocks of aluminum, with a hole the size of the hinge pin just where the
print calls for it. Then cut an extra long section of hinge pin and stick it
thru the hinge, and the "t block"..this was you keep the prescribed distance
from the trailing edge to the aileron and they all 3 will be just right.
when I was finished, those hinges moved like they were on
bearings....perfect, with no a hint of binding.
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini
Firefly 098
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Paul Poberezny Visit |
For any of you Listers in or near SE Michigan this week:
----- Original Message -----
From: "Troy Toelle" <ttoelle(at)eaa.org>
Subject: Paul Poberezny Visit
EAA Chapter 1413 proudly presents:
PAUL POBEREZNY
For 30 years he said "airplane, sir" as he served his country as a pilot,
flight instructor and mechanic. He holds all seven military pilot wings. The
roots of EAA began with Paul's collection of airplane parts from crashes and
junked aircraft, which he turned into a museum in the family basement. EAA's
first fly-in was in Milwaukee in 1953. Paul served as president until 1989,
when he was named chairman of the board. During that time, EAA had grown
from a basement operation into a worldwide organization with more than
100,000 members. Paul has more than 30,000 flight hours in over 400 types of
aircraft, including more than 170 homebuilts and 15 of his own design.
Saturday, July 24, 1999 Paul was inducted into the National Aviation Hall Of
Fame in Dayton, Ohio.
Thursday January 9, 2003 - 7:30pm
Michigan Aviation
Oakland County International Airport
PLEASE JOIN US FOR THIS HISTORIC NIGHT
For more information please e-mail mikeo(at)eaaptk.org
Or visit our website at www.eaaptk.org
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duncan McBride <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
I have a facet pump that sits even with the bottom of the plastic tanks. I
run the line out the top of the tanks and down in a loop below the bottom of
the tanks and into the pump. From there the line goes up about 30 inches to
the mechanical pump. It primed the mechanical pump and carbs just fine.
With the gas turned off ( valve between the tank and the facet pump) the
facet clicks pretty loud - when I turn on the gas it clicks quieter until
the pressure comes up then it gets a little quieter still, but you can still
hear it ok. Have you disconnected the fuel line between teh carbs and the
mechanical pump to see if the facet is pumping fuel through the mechanical
pump?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <rwpike(at)preferred.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Facet Pump
>
> The Facet needs to be at the lowest point in the system, and gravity fed.
> If your fuel line exits your tank from the top, you may be up the creek.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> >
> >I purchased a Facet pump to supplement the Rotax's pulse pump. My problem
is
> >no matter where I locate the pump it will not prime the lines to the
> >Carburetor. In a test of the pump outside the system, the pump appears to
> >push the gas just fine. The instructions talk about air in the system may
> >keep the pump from priming. If this is the case how can the facet replace
> >the squeeze bulb? How does the facet pump differ from the squeeze bulb in
> >pushing the fuel through the air filled lines? I have check out the
> >archives. Did not find a solution to my question.
> >
> >John Wood
> >Firestar N670JW
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vamoose On-Going |
>
>
>$%*#@ Chinese tap is just .002 larger than standard,
>and when I felt it get tight in the 1st hole, I stopped, and started
>checking. Glad I did ! ! ! This is one place where maximum strength is of
>utmost importance, and sloppy threads don't get it.
Gosh Lar I would have just got the old hacksaw out (new blade) and just
hacked an eighth off the end of each bolt and touched it up with a file.
Perhaps just grinding the threads off the first eighth on an inch would be
enough. Probably 5 minutes each.
I got faith in ya pal. Put me down for late summer of 04 for first flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: UltraStar Wing Mod |
Ed,
I looked into the options of stiffening my ol US wings also. The
trailing edge tube is only .028" thick. It probably wouldn't take the
stress. John's suggestion about stiffening the inboard edge of the main
spar is what I did. It made such a huge difference that I didn't even
consider doing anything more. I described the process in the archives. If
you can't find them, call me, 352-307-9009
Regarding landing gear, I found that large diameter, thin wall chromemoly
steel tubing with a bungie cord supension was the lightest way to go & still
have the strength you need. They were abused & kept comming.back for more
You can see it at the website John posted
http://lafa.com/Photos/Robert%20is%20Here/006.jpg. also checkout the nose
job, It weighed only a coupl of lbs as it was out of stitz & thin aluminum
tube
They were abused & kept comming.back for more
>>>> I have decided to attempt to stiffin the wings due to the warpage
created by the ailerons....I am thinking of adding a lift strut to the rear
"spar" and adding some reinforcment to the full ribs.....any ideas? Of
coarse, I am trying to keep the weight down but may have created a "fat one"
already with Azusa brakes and modified landing gear with fiberglass 1.25
inch rods. To stay legal I may have to forget all instruments except engine
gauges and forget the fiberglass nose fairing. The new seat tank is heavy
too , and with 6 gallons the legal issue is comprimised anyway.......
Ed in Western NY
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron and flap hinges |
>
>Dick,
>Take a look at how I did it on the wing attachment page of my web site...it
>is page 3 or 4.
>
>
>http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
>
>Don Gherardini
>Firefly 098
Great workmanship and great web site. Kinda puts my rude and crude ways
to shame.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
> John, where is this picture taken? Is he an active pilot? I lost track
> of him, Last I heard he was down miami way. Sentimental Richard
Richard/Gents;
Know what you mean. 15 years ago I was chasing
that little Ultrastar around the Gator Ultralight
Strip with my little Firestar.
Richard didn't know I existed. I tailed him for
15 minutes, then let him see me. I might add, I
was right on his tail too. He was flying around
the area north of the field. There was an antenna
tower up there. In the area where HWY 27 and the
interstate interset, IIRC.
I was flying from Alabama to Miami in Nov 1987,
and return. A 1,500 mile flight, round trip. My
first extra long flight. A couple weeks prior, I
had flown from Alabama to Lake City, FL, for the
North Florida Airshow. That was my first
overnight flight. Was a test to see if I had
everything I needed to get the job done. That was
about a 600 mile round trip.
Those two flights were the beginning of many more
ultralight flights over the years. At that time I
had no idea that I would ever fly to Alaska. Six
years later I landed at Dead Horse/Prudoe Bay,
Alaska. Still amazes me...............
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
I have been chatting with Ivo prop about repairing a chip in my prop blade.
They said the best is to use a polyester resin for the repair. I a
wondering if anybody out there has advice/experience on how to use and buy a
polyster resin. How is it purchased? I am familiar with epoxy and fiberglass
resin, but when they say a polyetser resin, what exactly do they mean? Maybe
the fiberglass resin is just that??
Thanks
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hugh" <hmhumes(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ivo prop repair |
My experience with fiberglass and resin is woodenboat related. There's two
resins that are used with fiberglass. One is epoxy and the other is
polyester. Poly is cheaper but it doesn't stick to wood as well and isn't
impervious to water like epoxy is. The bad rap that fiberglass covered
wooden boats get is due mostly to poly resin delaminating from the wood.
Did IVO specifically say not to use epoxy? From what I've read on the boat
building websites you can put epoxy over polyester but NOT the other way
around. I wonder if epoxy weighs more the poly. Maybe a weight/balance
problem? I'd think it would have to be a pretty big "chip" to throw the
weight off.
Just thinking out loud...
Hugh
----- Original Message -----
From: <Timandjan(at)aol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Ivo prop repair
>
> I have been chatting with Ivo prop about repairing a chip in my prop
blade.
> They said the best is to use a polyester resin for the repair. I a
> wondering if anybody out there has advice/experience on how to use and buy
a
> polyster resin. How is it purchased? I am familiar with epoxy and
fiberglass
> resin, but when they say a polyetser resin, what exactly do they mean?
Maybe
> the fiberglass resin is just that??
>
> Thanks
>
> Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ivo prop repair |
How about the old baking soda and crazy glue repair? Hasn't it been
discussed on this list in the past? Or maybe it was FLY-UL? Good for
small nicks, don't know how big is the nick in question.
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ivo prop repair |
Actually there are three resins commonly used in the home built aircraft,
Epoxy, Polyester, and Vinyl Ester. There are two types of Polyester resin,
one which contains wax for single coat or the finishing layup. The wax
rises to the surface and facilities sanding. The other does not contain
any wax and stay a little tacky. It is used for multiple layups (layers) -
last layup would use the one which contains wax to allow finish
sanding. See Aircraft Spruce - they can provide you with the correct
material for your application. A small quart kit will cost around $20.
How big of nick do you have? I have heard of using baking soda mixed with
super glue as a filler for small nicks. If you have a larger especially
deep nick better use the resin.
Below is the web site link I have for them - it appeared to be down at this
time, try it later and see what happens.
http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/
jerb
>
>My experience with fiberglass and resin is woodenboat related. There's two
>resins that are used with fiberglass. One is epoxy and the other is
>polyester. Poly is cheaper but it doesn't stick to wood as well and isn't
>impervious to water like epoxy is. The bad rap that fiberglass covered
>wooden boats get is due mostly to poly resin delaminating from the wood.
>
>Did IVO specifically say not to use epoxy? From what I've read on the boat
>building websites you can put epoxy over polyester but NOT the other way
>around. I wonder if epoxy weighs more the poly. Maybe a weight/balance
>problem? I'd think it would have to be a pretty big "chip" to throw the
>weight off.
>
>Just thinking out loud...
>Hugh
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Timandjan(at)aol.com>
>To:
>Subject: Kolb-List: Ivo prop repair
>
>
> >
> > I have been chatting with Ivo prop about repairing a chip in my prop
>blade.
> > They said the best is to use a polyester resin for the repair. I a
> > wondering if anybody out there has advice/experience on how to use and buy
>a
> > polyster resin. How is it purchased? I am familiar with epoxy and
>fiberglass
> > resin, but when they say a polyetser resin, what exactly do they mean?
>Maybe
> > the fiberglass resin is just that??
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Tim
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ivo prop repair |
> If you have a larger especially
> deep nick better use the resin.
> Below is the web site link I have for them - it appeared to be down at this
> time, try it later and see what happens.
> http://www.aircraft-spruce.com/
> jerb
Jerb/Gents:
Think I'd go down to Wal*Mart, buy a small epoxy
kit, two little tubes, one of resin, one of
catalyst, for a couple bucks.
I use JB Weld on the Warp Drive. I have used
epoxy on wooden props, the baking soda super glue
process. They all work well.
A $20.00 kit might be an overkill for a nick or
two. :-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vamoose On-Going |
Found a decent tap at work, so borrowed it for a day, and tapped out the
holes this afternoon, and set the bolts in. Still a little shy, so tapered
1/8" of the end of the bolts, and torqued them down with red loc-tite.
Looks like great minds run in the same circles. Still left over 1/2" of
solid threads holding, but I don't like those shallow socket heads. There's
also 4 steel pins locating that part, as well, so I doubt if it'll go
anywhere. I was a little off in the difference in size of those 2 taps,
too. Something to keep in mind when doing critical work. Pics of both
going on photoshare in a couple of minutes. C'mon, Matt ! ! !
Gogittum Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Vamoose On-Going
>
>
> >
> >
> >$%*#@ Chinese tap is just .002 larger than standard,
> >and when I felt it get tight in the 1st hole, I stopped, and started
> >checking. Glad I did ! ! ! This is one place where maximum strength is
of
> >utmost importance, and sloppy threads don't get it.
>
>
> Gosh Lar I would have just got the old hacksaw out (new blade) and
just
> hacked an eighth off the end of each bolt and touched it up with a file.
> Perhaps just grinding the threads off the first eighth on an inch would be
> enough. Probably 5 minutes each.
> I got faith in ya pal. Put me down for late summer of 04 for first
flight.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincehallam(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: prop repair/protection |
Im about to run a wooden one piece two blader at 6000 rpm on my kids
hovercraft [lots of dirt in the air].Anybody got a contact or specification
/part number for a good prop tape ?? we used to use it on rolls royce turbo
props in the far east,and I thought it was a bit mickey mouse then, but
now..........
Vnz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hans vanAlphen" <hva(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re:Facet pump priming |
Flyboys,
The initial priming of the Facet pump requires you to remove the carburator
bowl or the fuel line to the carburator.
The float in the carburator, if full, will not let the air out of the fuel
line.
DO NOT use a high pressure pump or you will flood your carburator, all you
need is 31/2 to 4 psi.
Hope this helps.
Hans van Alphen
Mark III Xtra
BMW powered
90 hours.
N100MX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron and flap hinges |
| From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
I am petty much at the same stage. finished one wing and then came the
holidays, and have done very little. Will be getting full steam into it now
that the world is back to normal. My advice is that you use the spacer
between the spars the 3/4 inch that is called for. make sure both spars are
aligned parallal to each other. Once thats done place the hinges and mark
them as to where they are in most contact with the apars. You want the
rivets right in the center of the contact area so they give you max
strength. You can use a piece of L tube to mark a straight line on the spars
if you need to, to make sure the hinges are straight. That last part I
figured out after I was done with the first wing. I use an X hinge design of
my own invention (as far as I know), so marking them to be straight got to
be important. :-) Other than that it will work fine even if its slightly
misaligned, especially the Kolb designed hinges, it even does on my wing. I
had to lube it a bit to get the sqweeks out of it. But it is one rugged
rigid and strong hinge. Unlike those seemingly chinzy factory design, the x
hinges are none compressionable which was one of the things that got me
worried about the Kolb design. Yes John H. I know that you have flown 67.19
gazzilion hours with yours, and never a problem. :-)
==============
>
> Greetings
>
> I am in the process of mating the ailerons and flaps to the recently completed
> wings. The manual on the subject seems straight forward but does anyone have
> any hints that will aid in the needed accuracy of hinge placement?
>
> Thank you ahead of time.
>
> Dick Neitzel
> Sayner WI
> Mark III
> neitzel(at)newnorth.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: prop repair/protection |
How long is the prop? The RPM sounds kind of high for a prop - efficiency
goes down if you turn them to fast also they can make a heck of a noise if
the tips are breaking the speed of sound.
jerb
>
>Im about to run a wooden one piece two blader at 6000 rpm on my kids
>hovercraft [lots of dirt in the air].Anybody got a contact or specification
>/part number for a good prop tape ?? we used to use it on rolls royce turbo
>props in the far east,and I thought it was a bit mickey mouse then, but
>now..........
> Vnz
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gdledbetter1(at)fuse.net> |
| Subject: | Arrived in FLA and it's another world |
Kolbers,
Since I live in Cincinnati and fly my Firefly out of Waynesville, and
since the December weather was definitely not conducive to flying, I
am happy to report that my trailered Firefly and I arrived in Florida last
week and will be in a beachhouse at St. Teresa near Panacea until
after SunNFun in April. Duane the Plane will be moving his Firefly
down to Panacea this week so that we can fly the beaches together.
I dropped the Firefly off at the Panacea airport last week and flew on
Friday, Sunday and Monday. Friday was especially great with little
wind, 60, and full sun. A fellow who has a new house with hangar
just across from where my trailer is parked has just finished a Mark
III XTRA with VW power. It's been flown one time and he pranged it
just a little on the first landing. A new landing gear leg and a little
fiberglas work on the nose and it will be good as new.
We spent last Thursday at the Quincy airport where we did weight
and balance on Duane's new Mark III. It's a little tail heavy so he will
cut about 5 inches off the tailwheel extension shaft and add about 10
pounds of lead forward of the rudder pedals. This should put him
right where the weight and balance should be for a light pilot. I will
keep pressing Duane until he marks the last few items off the list so
he can get it in the air.
Flew from Panacea to Quincy airport and did a little motoring around
the field there with Duane who just did the 150 hr Rotax inspection.
Oddly enough, Duane needed to replace the rings and so he is going
thru the breakin thing.
Hauck, come on down and we can fly someplace together. As I said
earlier, I'll be in a beach house at St. Teresa until March 15 before
going south to visit friends near Tampa, then on to SunNFun before
returning to Cincinnati.... I have room at the beachhouse and you
know that Duane has room at the townhouse.
Gene Ledbetter
Cincinnati
Firefly 144 hrs and climbing
________________________________________________________________________________
Hello:
I am new to the list, and looking for info.
I fly an RV, and really like a light, responsive control system. Am
interested in a light, low, slow plane, and think maybe Kolb is a good
choice, but have never flown in one. I tried to work out a demo ride at
Oshkosh last summer, but could not do so. The "other brand" that I did fly
did not feel very responsive.
Which light plane is most responsive?
Which Kolb model is best for a very short strip? Is a 500 -600 foot strip
practical? Am looking at the Firefly or Firestar. Single seat is ok, or if
two seat, I prefer tandem seating.
How does the required building time compare between these two?
What engine has proven best from standpoint of performance and reliability?
It is probably apparent that I come from the world of Lycoming and do not
know the Rotax world at all, but would appreciate your advice.
Thanks.
Jimmy
hillstw(at)aol.com
(Oklahoma)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ivo prop repair |
Ivo said that the Polyester resin is preferred, epoxy is second and things
like JP weld is third. Polyester is the first because they said it's the
hardest.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <bweber2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ivo prop repair |
I have used the super glue/baking soda solution for a small nick on a
Powerfin. Works fine. When I was doing RC aircraft, there was a product called
micro-balloons. It was extremely light and mixed with epoxy to fill gaps. It
was also easy to sand for shaping after it dried. Don't know if it is still
available or it may be under a different name now.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce McElhoe" <mcelhoe(at)cvip.net> |
> Hello:
> I am new to the list, and looking for info.
> I fly an RV, and really like a light, responsive control system. Am
> interested in a light, low, slow plane, and think maybe Kolb is a good
> choice, but have never flown in one.
Jimmy,
I have been flying my Long-EZ for the past six years, and I too like
responsive controls. I recently completed a FireFly and have about 4 hours
on it. I'm sure there are a lot of pilots in this group with far more hours
and far more authoritative opinions about their Kolb, but here's mine....
You will like the responsiveness of the FireFly. Controls are quick and
just what you would expect. Because it can fly so slowly and turn so
tightly, there is a flight regime that is new to us.....with soft controls
in slow flight and a tendency to overbank in a very steep turn (The inside
wing is barely moving!) I find this new regime to be a lot of fun.
>
> Which light plane is most responsive?
>
Jimmy, I can't answer that one....I've flown only the FireFly.
> Which Kolb model is best for a very short strip? Is a 500 -600 foot strip
> practical?
When I get a little better with short-field landings, I'm sure 500-600 feet
would be plenty for the FireFly. The Rotax 447 gives that little plane a
lot of power, and it leaps right off the ground in about 150 feet. My
landings still take a lot more...but I expect better.
Am looking at the Firefly or Firestar. Single seat is ok, or if
> two seat, I prefer tandem seating.
> How does the required building time compare between these two?
>
> What engine has proven best from standpoint of performance and
reliability?
>
> It is probably apparent that I come from the world of Lycoming and do not
> know the Rotax world at all, but would appreciate your advice.
>
>
> Thanks.
> Jimmy
> hillstw(at)aol.com
> (Oklahoma)
I'll have to leave the rest of your questions for others.
Regards,
Bruce McElhoe FireFly #88
Reedley, Calif.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop repair/protection |
Vince,
I used stainless steel tape from NAPA on a wood prop & it worked fine.
You can cut it with scissors & also notch it if you are following a curve.
Richard Swiderski
>
> Im about to run a wooden one piece two blader at 6000 rpm on my kids
> hovercraft [lots of dirt in the air].Anybody got a contact or
specification
> /part number for a good prop tape ?? we used to use it on rolls royce
turbo
> props in the far east,and I thought it was a bit mickey mouse then, but
> now..........
> Vnz
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ivo prop repair |
What material is the prop actually made of?
That could significantly impact the preference of one over the other for
strength and bonding.
jerb
>
>Ivo said that the Polyester resin is preferred, epoxy is second and things
>like JP weld is third. Polyester is the first because they said it's the
>hardest.
>
>Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lawrence M. Rice" <tailwind5(at)juno.com> |
If you haven't used it before, remember to be very careful with MEK. It's
nasty stuff. One drop in the eye and it's gone.
Larry the MicroMong guy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ivo prop repair |
Personally, I'm an epoxy fan for most everything, but if Ivo built the prop,
and Ivo says "Use Polyester;" then I'd use polyester. For just a bit of it,
try taking your prop to a body shop. Bondo is polyester, and it can be
colored to match. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Timandjan(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ivo prop repair
>
> Ivo said that the Polyester resin is preferred, epoxy is second and things
> like JP weld is third. Polyester is the first because they said it's the
> hardest.
>
> Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ivo prop repair |
In a message dated 1/7/03 1:42:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, Timandjan(at)aol.com
writes:
> Ivo said that the Polyester resin is preferred, epoxy is second and things
> like JP weld is third. Polyester is the first because they said it's the
> hardest.
>
> Tim
>
Tim,
My advice is to do whatever Ivo recommends. You should be able to get
polyester resin with hardener at the local auto parts store. It should be
finishing resin which allows the surface to dry tack free. I would not use
laminating resin, it stays tacky.
Here is an address to a site that has a lot of info about the different
resins and reinforcements. http://www.fibreglast.com
Steven Green
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim and Phyllis Hefner" <hefners_tucson(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi John, I think I met you at Copperstate in Oct. I assumeyou live in San Diego
and owna yellow Firestar ? I own the yellow/green trimmed Firefly. We chatted
a few times at CuState. Interestingly enough, I recently completed doing the
same thing onmy FF. I bought the 2.5-4.5 PSI Facet pump and installed it in parallel
with my pulse pump. My pump is mounted about 1/2 way down the level of
my tank and I draw off the top of the tank. I put a fuel shut-off valve right
after where I tee'd the line off to the new pump, which I close after I fly to
prevent syphoning of fuel and air in the elec pump circuit, like I get in the
pulse pump part of the circuit.Do you get air in the lines ofyour pulse pump
circuit like I doafter a few days of downtime? If so, you will need to get that
air out and the Facet won't helpdo thatand I'm not sure the pulse pump can self
prime if there is enough air in the loop - onlya primer bulb can help that.
Once the Facet loop primes the carb, the floats are full and you won't be able
to get the air out of the pulse pump loop, even with a primer bulb... I found
that out the hard way. You might want to try putting ashut-off valvein the
pulse pump loop (assume you have no primer bulb and bypass loop with the new setup)to
keep it from draining back to the tank, creating air in that part of theloop
- the opposite of what I do, not having a battery to run the Facet with
until the plane is running. With the shut-off valve open, I use the primer bulb
a squeeze or two to make sure the facet loop is primed up to the T before the
carb, then I close the shut-off valve, isolating the facet loop and then hit
the primer bulb 4-5 times to get the air out of thepulse pumploop and fill the
carb bowl and close the float valve.Once I start the engine, I flip on the
facetswitch so they are both operating in parallel during flight.
I havehad acouple cases of engine running fine on start-up, good warming up, I
get in, strap in and get ready to taxi, only to have the engine sputter and die
when I try to give it throttle, which it never did before adding the new pump
loop.It usually restarts without problem anddoesn'thesitates again. I suspect
some air is still somewhere in one of the loops and ends up in the carb after
a little run time, causing it to die. Just a choke restarts it and no repriming
is needed, soI'm not real sure what is going on yet, so I have been doing
some extra warm-upto see if it isgonna sputter. I pulled the pulse line off the
pulse pump to make sure the Facet had enough pressure to run the 447 with no
pulse pump operating. Ran it at 3000 rpm5+ minutes to make sure it wasn't running
on fuel in the bowl and everything was fine. I then flipped the Facet switch
off and in about a minute, the engine died. I've made 2 100+ mile flights
in the past 3 wks (140miles last Sat) and everything was fine with the setup once
warmed-up. The lowest pressure pump works fine on the 447. Think you have
a dual carb 503 if I remember right, but that pressure should work for dual carbs
as well.
Good luck getting the priming problem fixed. Hope to see you again at Copperstate
next year.
If anyone else on thelisthas experienced what I described during warm-up after
installing a parallel electric pump loopand figured out what the cause was and
implemented a fix, please let me know.... gives me an uneasy feeling when I go
out there for the first take-off...Once the rpm's are up, there is not hesitation...
just hesitates to respond to throttle from idle and then dies, which
it never used to do.
Jim Hefner
FF022, Tucson, AZ
From: "Wood, John T." <WOODJT(at)SPAWAR.NAVY.MIL>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Facet Pump
-- Kolb-List message posted by: "Wood, John T."
Thanks for the responses to my Facet problem. I have tried the pump both
above and below the tank and it still did not work. That is what prompted me
to seek advise from the experts. Based on your responses it seems that I
might have a bad pump. I purchaed the lowest pressure pump. Maybe I need
more pressure to overcome the air in the lines?
John Wood
Firestar N670JW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
>
>
>Hi John, I think I met you at Copperstate in Oct. I assumeyou live in San
>Diego and owna yellow Firestar ? I own the yellow/green trimmed Firefly.
>We chatted a few times at CuState. Interestingly enough, I recently
>completed doing the same thing onmy FF. I bought the 2.5-4.5 PSI Facet
>pump and installed it in parallel with my pulse
>pump.===================================================================
I'll be darn if I didn't miss the whole "Facet Pump" thing altogether.
Been driving these flying lawn chairs since 1983 - been thru the Cyhuuuna -
ouchh!,
Rotax 377, 447, and now the 503 thing and still have not had a pulse
pump fail yet - 2,000 hours + or -. I know it happens, guess I should
get with the whole redundant /"Spaceshuttle/system".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
<< If anyone else on thelisthas experienced what I described during warm-up
after installing a parallel electric pump loopand figured out what the cause
was and implemented a fix, please let me know.... gives me an uneasy feeling
when I go out there for the first take-off... Jim Hefner, Tucson, AZ >>
Jim, and other Facet users -
The Facet pump is designed to allow fuel to continue flowing thru it when it
is turned off or failed. This allows you to install the Facet in SERIES
with your other fuel pump, rather than in parallel. And this makes plumbing
the fuel system lines simpler - fewer loops and tees to potentially trap air
pockets.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, Verner-powered in
New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wood, John T." <woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil> |
Hi Jim,
Good to hear from you. That was my yellow firestar at Copperstate. I thought
this years Copperstate was the best I have attended. I met a lot of great
folks and ran in to a few of the regulars. My whole thing with the facet
pump was simply to build redundancy in my system. Before I can actually test
any of the implementation suggestions however, I have to get a prop for my
plane. I was checking the prop and found the bolt hole had gotten oversized.
It is at IVO right now being checked out. I built a new fiberglass fuel tank
which can hold 16 gallons. If you remember, I had three fuel tanks. I wanted
to simplify the process. I needed the three tanks because the distance
between Copperstate and Yuma put me on the edge of legal fuel requirements.
Fortunately there was a tail wind in both directions and I probably could
have made the jump without the extra tank. Now I have enough fuel in a
single tank to get me between fuel stops with out worry. This got me to
looking at the whole fuel system design and see if there was a way to build
some redundancy into the system as well.
All the things you mention on trying to prime my system, I am experiencing.
They are all good suggestions and I appreciate the responses that I have
received regarding the subject. Primer bulb, no primer bulb, facet pump
above, below and some where in between, feed from the top and feed from the
bottom. In your case you have your facet pump in parallel with the pulse
pump. on a single carb systems that may be feasible. On a dual carb system
the mechanics of setting it up is beyond me. I haven't decided yet whether
to leave the primer bulb in or not. The shut off valve suggestion for the
fuel line sounds like a good idea for both safety and functionality. Your
mentioning that the fuel drains back into the tank over time, I have
observed and using a shutoff valve my help to keep the system primed during
non use.
When I finally get an opportunity to check out my fuel system, I will let
you know what works for my system.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim and Phyllis Hefner [mailto:hefners_tucson(at)hotmail.com]
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Facet Pump
Hi John, I think I met you at Copperstate in Oct. I assumeyou live in San
Diego and owna yellow Firestar ? I own the yellow/green trimmed Firefly. We
chatted a few times at CuState. Interestingly enough, I recently completed
doing the same thing onmy FF. I bought the 2.5-4.5 PSI Facet pump and
installed it in parallel with my pulse pump. My pump is mounted about 1/2
way down the level of my tank and I draw off the top of the tank. I put a
fuel shut-off valve right after where I tee'd the line off to the new pump,
which I close after I fly to prevent syphoning of fuel and air in the elec
pump circuit, like I get in the pulse pump part of the circuit.Do you get
air in the lines ofyour pulse pump circuit like I doafter a few days of
downtime? If so, you will need to get that air out and the Facet won't
helpdo thatand I'm not sure the pulse pump can self prime if there is enough
air in the loop - onlya primer bulb can help that. Once the Facet loop
primes the carb, the floats ar!
e full and you won't be able to get the air out of the pulse pump loop, even
with a primer bulb... I found that out the hard way. You might want to try
putting ashut-off valvein the pulse pump loop (assume you have no primer
bulb and bypass loop with the new setup)to keep it from draining back to the
tank, creating air in that part of theloop - the opposite of what I do, not
having a battery to run the Facet with until the plane is running. With the
shut-off valve open, I use the primer bulb a squeeze or two to make sure the
facet loop is primed up to the T before the carb, then I close the shut-off
valve, isolating the facet loop and then hit the primer bulb 4-5 times to
get the air out of thepulse pumploop and fill the carb bowl and close the
float valve.Once I start the engine, I flip on the facetswitch so they are
both operating in parallel during flight.
I havehad acouple cases of engine running fine on start-up, good warming up,
I get in, strap in and get ready to taxi, only to have the engine sputter
and die when I try to give it throttle, which it never did before adding the
new pump loop.It usually restarts without problem anddoesn'thesitates again.
I suspect some air is still somewhere in one of the loops and ends up in the
carb after a little run time, causing it to die. Just a choke restarts it
and no repriming is needed, soI'm not real sure what is going on yet, so I
have been doing some extra warm-upto see if it isgonna sputter. I pulled the
pulse line off the pulse pump to make sure the Facet had enough pressure to
run the 447 with no pulse pump operating. Ran it at 3000 rpm5+ minutes to
make sure it wasn't running on fuel in the bowl and everything was fine. I
then flipped the Facet switch off and in about a minute, the engine died.
I've made 2 100+ mile flights in the past 3 wks (140miles last Sat) and
everything!
was fine with the setup once warmed-up. The lowest pressure pump works fine
on the 447. Think you have a dual carb 503 if I remember right, but that
pressure should work for dual carbs as well.
Good luck getting the priming problem fixed. Hope to see you again at
Copperstate next year.
If anyone else on thelisthas experienced what I described during warm-up
after installing a parallel electric pump loopand figured out what the cause
was and implemented a fix, please let me know.... gives me an uneasy feeling
when I go out there for the first take-off...Once the rpm's are up, there is
not hesitation... just hesitates to respond to throttle from idle and then
dies, which it never used to do.
Jim Hefner
FF022, Tucson, AZ
From: "Wood, John T." <WOODJT(at)SPAWAR.NAVY.MIL>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Facet Pump
-- Kolb-List message posted by: "Wood, John T."
Thanks for the responses to my Facet problem. I have tried the pump both
above and below the tank and it still did not work. That is what prompted me
to seek advise from the experts. Based on your responses it seems that I
might have a bad pump. I purchaed the lowest pressure pump. Maybe I need
more pressure to overcome the air in the lines?
John Wood
Firestar N670JW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Armstrong" <cen33475(at)centurytel.net> |
The Facet pump is designed to allow fuel to continue flowing thru it when it
is turned off or failed. This allows you to install the Facet in SERIES
with your other fuel pump, rather than in parallel. And this makes plumbing
the fuel system lines simpler - fewer loops and tees to potentially trap air
pockets.
Unfortunately the pulse pump we use is not really designed for use inline
and its failure modes (though quite rare if you tune them up every year)
allow fuel underpressure into the pulse line and into the crank case of the
engine making the engine so rich it would probably quit. I am probably
going to plumb mine in series anyway as it seams like the best overall
solution since the failure rate of the pulse pumps when tuned up each year
is very low... but, it an't perfect. With parallel i you have the
possibility of check valves failing.
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Armstrong" <cen33475(at)centurytel.net> |
The facet instructions say to mount it with the outlet pointed upwards at a
45 degree angle. not sure if your doing that already, or if it really
matters much but that is called for in the instructions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
>
>
>The Facet pump is designed to allow fuel to continue flowing thru it when it
>is turned off or failed. This allows you to install the Facet in SERIES
>with your other fuel pump, rather than in parallel. And this makes plumbing
>the fuel system lines simpler - fewer loops and tees to potentially trap air
>pockets.
Luckily, I have a fuel flow meter on my ultralight, and I had a Facet in
series with my pulse pump... I started noticing a dramatic drop in flow to
my carburetors a day not too long ago. To make a long story short: I
played with it enough to figure out that the feature, "allow fuel to
continue flowing through it when it is turned offor failed", had failed,
and the pump had become a restriction.
I bypassed the pump to see if that would solve the problem, and it did.
So, I can guarantee to you that putting it in series IS a point of
failure... I usually believe that simpler is better, but no longer in this
case: plumb it in parallel.
-- Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
> Unfortunately the pulse pump we use is not really designed for use inline
> and its failure modes (though quite rare if you tune them up every year)
> allow fuel underpressure into the pulse line and into the crank case of the
> engine making the engine so rich it would probably quit.
> Topher
Topher/Gents:
The check valves inside the Mikuni pump and the
diaphram are all one piece. Normally, a check
valve in the pump will fail before the diaphram.
I, personally, have not heard of any diaphrams
spring leaks and killing two stroke engines.
Basically, they are of a very similar design as
the engine driven pumps on your auto or on our
Rotax 912s.
I have operated my fuel system in series with
excellent results.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
> Luckily, I have a fuel flow meter on my ultralight, and I had a Facet in
> series with my pulse pump... I started noticing a dramatic drop in flow to
> my carburetors a day not too long ago.
> -- Robert
Robert/Gents:
Was the Facet still operational? Did it pump fuel
when on? Or did one of the two one way valves in
the Facet stick? How often and how long did you
operate the Facet?
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
>Robert/Gents:
>
>Was the Facet still operational? Did it pump fuel
>when on? Or did one of the two one way valves in
>the Facet stick? How often and how long did you
>operate the Facet?
The Facet was the original pump (plane built in '97), and it was still
functioning when this occurred. In other words, when turned on, the Facet
still provided fuel... it was still pumping. But when off, the check valve
apparently was stuck, thus causing a restriction that impaired the flow.
I typically would only use the Facet to "pressure up" the system prior to
starting, then it would be turned off after the engine started. It was, of
course, there as an emergency backup if the mechanical pump failed.
I've replaced it with a new Facet pump, but now plumbed in parallel.
-- Robert
P.S. When this problem first manifest itself, it caused me my very first
true engine out emergency landing. I was on take-off, at about 50 feet,
when the engine quit. I was lucky that there is a 2000-foot long field
directly at the end of the turf runway -- not even a fence, just a swale,
separates it -- so I just pointed my nose down (hard!) and did a textbook
dead-stick landing. After I landed, I turned on the Facet pump (not
because I knew what the problem was at that point, but because that's my
normal mode of start up), and the engine fired right up. I taxi'd back to
the runway -- it was a bit bumpy, but not bad -- and decided I'd try it
again. (You see, I thought I had bumped the throttle off on my own!) In
all the excitement, I forgot to turn the Facet pump off. I did a normal
take-off, and was watching the flow meter when I realized that the aux.
pump (the Facet) was still on. As soon as I switched it off, I noticed the
fuel flow meter showed numbers a lot lowered that was normal. If I set up
a cruise at about 90%, it only took about 2 minutes before the restricted
flow couldn't keep up with the fuel use, and the engine started to
sputter. This is how I figured out it was a fuel flow problem. It took a
lot longer for me to narrow it down to the Facet pump.
BTW, don't get me wrong about the Facet... I love it! I just (now) think
it should be plumbed in parallel.
________________________________________________________________________________
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| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
Here is another suggestion, this is what I am using.
Put a check valve McMaster-Carr part number 7775K11, $ 9.97 in parallel with the
Facet so if the Facet fails or is switched off, the series Mikuni impulse pump
will pull through the check valve. The cracking pressure of this valve is
1/3 psi, not much restriction there.
Denny
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--------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
> I typically would only use the Facet to "pressure up" the system prior to
> starting, then it would be turned off after the engine started. It was, of
> course, there as an emergency backup if the mechanical pump failed.
>
> I've replaced it with a new Facet pump, but now plumbed in parallel.
>
> -- Robert
Hi Robert/Gang:
Seems I use my Facet a little differently than you
do. I use it as a primer pump to fill the carb
float bowls for startup after the airplane has
been sitting for a prolong period. However, I
leave mine own and do not turn it off until about
1,000 feet AGL, depending on where I am flying.
It is turned on again when I get below 1,000 feet
AGL. That way, if my engine driven pump should
fail on takeoff or landing, or when I am flying
close to the ground, I most likely will not lose
the engine.
If I remember correctly, and John Williamson can
correct me if I am wrong, we left both the main
and boost fuel pumps on all the time, except when
making a fuel pump check. Without a fuel pressure
gauge it is difficult to do. We pulled the
circuit breaker on the boost pump and watched for
a slight drop in pressure. With the engine
running of course. When we pushed the circuit
breaker back in, the fuel pressure should go back
to whatever normal fuel pressure was.
I would like to have a fuel pressure gauge for
checking the pumps, but don't really want to run
fuel lines up to the instrument panel. However,
there have been several times when a fuel pressure
gauge could have alerted me to an impending engine
out if I had had one installed and was cross
checking it. Looking at it that way, seems like
it would be more of a help than a safety factor
having one installed and operating.
I always have run my main and boost pumps in
series, both two and four cycle engines. I
recommend keeping it simple.
If you had had your boost pump on on takeoff, you
may not have had to experience an engine out and
forced landing.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
Hi Gang:
I was referring to a UH-1 or AH-1G below. Got to
start proof reading this stuff:
> If I remember correctly, and John Williamson can
> correct me if I am wrong, we left both the main
> and boost fuel pumps on all the time, except when
> making a fuel pump check. Without a fuel pressure
> gauge it is difficult to do. We pulled the
> circuit breaker on the boost pump and watched for
> a slight drop in pressure. With the engine
> running of course. When we pushed the circuit
> breaker back in, the fuel pressure should go back
> to whatever normal fuel pressure was.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
Whoops, scratch that part number, the correct number is 7775K51, this one
has the Viton seat that holds up to fuel. The other number I gave has the
Buna rubber seat.
----- Original Message -----
From: <rowedl(at)highstream.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Facet
>
> Here is another suggestion, this is what I am using.
> Put a check valve McMaster-Carr part number 7775K11, $ 9.97 in parallel
with the Facet so if the Facet fails or is switched off, the series Mikuni
impulse pump will pull through the check valve. The cracking pressure of
this valve is 1/3 psi, not much restriction there.
> Denny
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim and Phyllis Hefner" <hefners_tucson(at)hotmail.com> |
From: Wood, John T. (woodjt(at)spawar.navy.mil)
Date: Wed Jan 08 - 7:14 AM
John wrote: "My whole thing with the facet pump was simply to build
redundancy in my system."
John, that is exactly what my intention was. Pretty cheap insurance ($30)
I felt, vs picking cactus out of my ass due to a $20 pulse pump failure, and
I know they are pretty reliable if maintained. I have seen the online
debates on putting them in series vs in parallel and read Mike Stratman's
articles on this topic. Since I was doing it for redundancy vs easier
priming, I went with parallel. After looking at my mounting options, I
found a perfect spot to mount the pump on a 45o angle as the Facet
instructions called for, and then I routed the new fuel line up the angled
motor mount cage member, near the carb, where I T-spliced it in. I wasn't
worried about mounting the pump below the surface of the tank. I always
refill my tank when I'm done flying, so the fuel level is always higher than
the pump when it sits for days, plus I shut-off the fuel valve to that loop
after flying, so it never gets any air in the input side of the pump.
Since these pumps are rated for 1000's of hrs, I turn it on and leave it on
during the entire flight. I know a guy with a QuickSilver that went to the
trouble of putting a fuel pressure guage on his dash, so if he sees the
pressure drop, he will then turn on his electric pump that is mounted in
parallel with his pulse pump. I don't want to be constantly looking at a
guage and hoping to see it drop in time before my bowl runs dry, so I chose
not to go that route. With pull start that is not easy to do in a FF,
that's not a great solution. Looking at EGT's periodically is enough for
me. I like to look at the scenery more than guages.
I'll be interested to hear from you when you get yours done to see what you
end up doing that works. Your prop situation is also interesting.... will
be interesting to hear what IVO concludes.
Take care,
Jim Hefner
Tucson, AZ
FF022
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ivo prop repair |
>
>Personally, I'm an epoxy fan for most everything, but if Ivo built the prop,
>and Ivo says "Use Polyester;" then I'd use polyester. For just a bit of it,
>try taking your prop to a body shop. Bondo is polyester, and it can be
>colored to match. Lar.
Lots of filler in bondo. That may reduce the strength. It is hard to
find small quantities of polyester resin so epoxy in the tubes may be the
best way and is recommended by warp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: [ Larry Bourne ] : New Email List Photo Share |
Available!
| From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
1/8/03 15:08Email List Photo Shares
>
>
>
> A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Larry Bourne
>
> Lists: Kolb-List,Ultralight-List
>
> Subject: Vamoose' Re-Drive
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/biglar@gogittum.com.01.08.2003/index.html
>
>===========================
Hey lar this is what I get when i click on your link..
******The requested URL
/photoshare/biglar(at)gogittum.com.01.08.2003/index.html was not found on this
server.
Apache/1.3.22 Server at www.matronics.com Port 80*******
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
I am about to finish the flapron hinge installation. However the plans do
not call for hinges to be installed at the root of the flapron. As I have
not looked any further than what i am doing in the plans, I am wondering if
there is additional bracing on the Flapron Torque tube/spar. My question is
what keeps it from warping or bending when the pilot dials in ailron
deflection? Has anyone placed hinges at the root od the torque tube/spar?
Thanx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Armstrong" <cen33475(at)centurytel.net> |
the wing root rib has a hole in it that a bolt welded to the flapperon horn
goes through, forming the root hinge. you do not need an additional hing
there.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Larry Bourne ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Looks like something boo-boo-ed on the 1st try. I only sent 2, and they
came thru fine on the 2nd try. Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "CaptainRon" <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: [ Larry Bourne ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
>
> 1/8/03 15:08Email List Photo Shares
>
> >
> >
> >
> > A new Email List Photo Share is available:
> >
> > Poster: Larry Bourne
> >
> > Lists: Kolb-List,Ultralight-List
> >
> > Subject: Vamoose' Re-Drive
> >
> >
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/biglar@gogittum.com.01.08.2003/index.htm
l
> >
> >===========================
>
>
> Hey lar this is what I get when i click on your link..
>
>
> ******The requested URL
> /photoshare/biglar(at)gogittum.com.01.08.2003/index.html was not found on
this
> server.
>
> Apache/1.3.22 Server at www.matronics.com Port 80*******
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 1/8/03 4:25:39 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rlaird(at)cavediver.com writes:
> This is how I figured out it was a fuel flow problem. It took a
> lot longer for me to narrow it down to the Facet pump.
>
> BTW, don't get me wrong about the Facet... I love it! I just (now) think
> it should be plumbed in parallel.
Robert,
Was this on a hot day? And is your pulse pump much higher (vertically) than
your electric?
Steven G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
At 10:20 PM 1/8/2003, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 1/8/03 4:25:39 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>rlaird(at)cavediver.com writes:
>
> > This is how I figured out it was a fuel flow problem. It took a
> > lot longer for me to narrow it down to the Facet pump.
> >
> > BTW, don't get me wrong about the Facet... I love it! I just (now) think
> > it should be plumbed in parallel.
>
>Robert,
>Was this on a hot day? And is your pulse pump much higher (vertically) than
>your electric?
Steven --
No, it was a cool day, probably low 60's (well, that's cool for
Houston!). And yes my pulse pump is higher, but only by an inch or two.
The restriction it was causing was consistent and repeatable over a 2 week
period.
-- Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
Ya Captian Ron, thats how my fireFly is. The root rib is made of Chromemoly
and it has a tab on the trailing edge with a 5/16th hole in it. The Aileron
horn that slips into the leading edge tube of the Flaperon has a bolt that
fit into this hole. The Manual mentions that no nut is needed on this bolt,
as the P-hinges capture lateral movement of the Flaperon. Im not real
familiar with a Ultrastar, but I have seen pics of your landing on the
so-called Stork, and I really like them alot. Any chances of drawings/prints
existing of that gear?
Don Gherardini
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
FireFly 098
________________________________________________________________________________
Captain, I Just checked my web site, and on page 3, you can view this
trailing edge tab on the root rib
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
Thanks go to Richard Swiderski and Jpohn Hauck for the advice on stiffening
the Ultrastar wings . I now am going to put the steel ring on the end of the tube
and stiffen the full ribs with some aluminum angle.
I have been busy trying to add a Firefly type front end to the Ultrastar rear
with the modified integral gear sockets and I am confident I can make it work.
I may also use another idea of Richards to build the nose fairing from rib
tubing and dacron . Light is better....
Over the years I have discovered that when I was younger I thought I was "blazing
new trails " but soon realized I was usually on a well worn path. Somebody
else has already got the correct answer to your problem....and this list
is it....thanks Guys !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <CaptainRon(at)theriver.com> |
1/8/03 19:09Christopher Armstrong
> you do not need an additional hing
> there.
==================
Thanks :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hans vanAlphen" <hva(at)bellsouth.net> |
>
>The restriction it was causing was consistent and repeatable over a 2 week
>period.
>>
> -- Robert
Hey Robert, do you use a fuel filter before and after the facet pump...???
If no filter is used before the pump it could be dirt causing the problem.
On the BMW I use 2 Facet pumps in series, with fuel filters before and
after.
Hans van Alphen
Mark III Xtra
BMW powered
90 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
>
> >
> >The restriction it was causing was consistent and repeatable over a 2 week
> >period.
> >>
> > -- Robert
>
>Hey Robert, do you use a fuel filter before and after the facet pump...???
>If no filter is used before the pump it could be dirt causing the problem.
>On the BMW I use 2 Facet pumps in series, with fuel filters before and
>after.
>
>Hans van Alphen
>Mark III Xtra
>BMW powered
Yes, a filter is in-line before the pump... not sure why you'd have an
additional one after the pump, though, unless you're expecting pump parts
to spontaneously implode and flow through the tubing!
If blockage were the problem, you'd think it would impair the pumps ability
to pump, but when it was on, it pumped just fine. That implies that the
check valve was somehow faulty, and that there was no blockage from
dirt. However, it's not impossible that dirt is the cause of the
check-valve not working properly. Who knows.
Brother Hauck certainly has been a guiding light for me, so I suppose
running the pump all the time is the real solution (the stated 6000 hours
of life in the pump is about 60 years of flying time for me!). However,
I'm uncomfortable with that because my flow rate is higher (based on my
fuel flow meter) when I use the Facet pump than when I just use the
mechanical pump alone... I would think it should be the same. So I wonder
if I'm getting overflow (i.e., wasting fuel) when I use the Facet all the
time? (It's the low-pressure Facet.)
-- Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
> On the BMW I use 2 Facet pumps in series, with fuel filters before and
> after.
>
> Hans van Alphen
Hans/Gents:
Good idea!
I am configured with filter after the Facet and
before the engine driven pump on the 912S.
The facet had no problem pumping a ton of garbage,
enough to completely block fuel filter and shut
down the engine a few years ago. I do have a
finger strainer ahead of the fuel tank outlet for
the big stuff.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
> However,
> I'm uncomfortable with that because my flow rate is higher (based on my
> fuel flow meter) when I use the Facet pump than when I just use the
> mechanical pump alone... I would think it should be the same. So I wonder
> if I'm getting overflow (i.e., wasting fuel) when I use the Facet all the
> time? (It's the low-pressure Facet.)
>
> -- Robert
Robert/Gents:
The instruments we use in our airplanes are not
absolute, especially fuel flow meters. I don't
have a flow meter in my airplane, but do have one
in the boat. It was designed and built by
Flo-Scan. Gives me a good idea of how much fuel
my 351W is burning or not burning. But it has
proven to be not totally accurate.
I believe your engine would be the first to let
you know if you were in fact getting overflow when
the Facet is energized. I bet it is a false
reading at the flow meter.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bob n <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Re: FireFly aileron hinge. Coupla years ago, when being judged at EAA
fly-in, the judge said I had to put a nut on the welded bolt!! Did so,
and awarded First Place, ULs. Pays to have yer nuts tight. Wasn't even
safetied, but judge was pleased at making a Uler toe the line.
Bob N. 070 FF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim and Phyllis Hefner" <hefners_tucson(at)hotmail.com> |
> On the BMW I use 2 Facet pumps in series, with fuel filters
before and
> after.
>
> Hans van Alphen
Hans/Gents:
Good idea!
I am configured with filter after the Facet and
before the engine driven pump on the 912S.
The facet had no problem pumping a ton of garbage,
enough to completely block fuel filter and shut
down the engine a few years ago. I do have a
finger strainer ahead of the fuel tank outlet for
the big stuff.
john h
John/ others, I put my filter before the pump in both pulse and electric
pump loops, thinking I didn't want the garbage going thru either pump,
causing it to malfunction. Since I change the filter yearly, I was thinking
I am throwing away all the garbage. Putting it after the pump seems to
expose the pump to some collection of garbage over time that is not removed
when you change the filter.... probably not a big deal, but my reason for
putting the filters before the pumps. My assumption is that the gargage is
coming from the tank, not the pump.
Another question about serial pumps vs parallel if I may. I think of the
pulse pump, with no other pump in the picture, as having 0 pressure
(actually negative pressure when pumping from the tank) on the input side of
the pump and outputting 4lbs for discussion purposes. It seems to me by
putting an electric pump in series with the Mikuni pulse pump, the pulse
pump input pressure now becomes lets say 4.5 lbs, not 0. I'm not an expert
on Mikuni pumps, but it seems to me it would either take 4.5lbs in and do
nothing, outputting 4.5lbs, or it would take 4.5lbs in and increase it 4lbs
(or something in between). Whereas, in a parallel connection, there is
always 0 lbs input pressure to both pumps and both outputs of 4lbs and
4.5lbs, with the carb seeing the higher of the two pressures (4.5lbs), which
is closer to the normal output pressure of the 2 pumps. Has anyone tried
measing this effect with a fuel pressure guage in the line? If the Mikuni
has a max output pressure of 4lbs, no matter what the input pressure is,
then the carb sees the same pressure whether the pump is working or not.
What I don't know is if having 4lbs pressure on the input side of the Mikuni
pump diaphram would have any affect on its longterm durability.... there's
definitely a difference in the 2 setups, unless I'm all wet in my thinking,
which is highly possible! I know the serial approach works, so I suspect
the Mikuni doesn't add to the pressure, but effectively does nothing. The
other thing I have noted in the discussion is that many folks only use their
electric pumps for priming, take-off and landings, so durability may not
being fully understood due to a small sample. With my setup, it is on all
the time after startup until shutdown. Since I was unsure of the effect of
having a constant input pressure, close to the pump output pressure, on the
Mikuni pump, which normally sees 0, I decided to go parallel. I wanted to
add redundancy, not detract from the reliability of the one pump I have been
using. Seeing Stratman's articles only showing parallel connections seemed
to make sense to me, not changing the input pressure of either pump. I
know we have beat this subject to death, but I haven't seen any discussion
on the technical differences the pump sees and what longterm affect it might
have. I'm curious about your or others thoughts on this.
Thanks much!
Jim Hefner
Tucson, AZ
FF022
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)sw.rr.com> |
I
> know we have beat this subject to death, but I haven't seen any discussion
> on the technical differences the pump sees and what longterm affect it might
> have. I'm curious about your or others thoughts on this.
>
> Thanks much!
> Jim Hefner
Hi Jim/Gents:
I don't know what the pressures are after both
pumps in series.
I know it works.
Would be interesting to get a pressure reading
with Mikuni alone and when Facet is operational.
I would guess there would be 3 to 4 psi.
I don't think pressure from the facet pump degrads
longevity the Mikuni or any other engine driven
pump, like the one on the 912S. If you can
imagine what the diaphram is doing over the course
of a flight, the Watusi. Those crank case pulses
are working out on the little diaphram.
I have proven over time that the system works for
me, in series, with both 2 and 4 stoke systems.
I'm happy with my set up.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Rut Roh.....Sorry Captain Ron....as usual, Im mixed up!....got you confused
with a Capt Bob of Ultrastar fame!...I apoligize for the mixup. A few days
ago a couple a guys were talking about an UltraStar that used to belong to a
member here, they posted a pic of an unusual landing gear config made of
moly-tubing with a bungee suspension that gave a 'Stork-like" look to that
bird.
December 15, 2002 - January 09, 2003
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-eb