Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-eh
April 19, 2003 - May 08, 2003
John,
The heat treating place I used told me that some alloys might make it
up to 46, 48, and others wouldn't. I wonder if I haven't been paying
enf attention to what alloy to start with? I have just ordered 4130
from Aircraft Spruce and thought I need not make things more
complicated than that. AT least the guy was honest in telling me it
topped out at 42, and that after getting my ok for a second run.
Either he is correct about variations in alloy or they don't know what
they're doing. Dang, something else to wonder about.
-Ben
>
> Ben R/Gang:
>
> I'll help you out a little.
>
> > Heat treaters said they could get these to no more than 42
> > Rockwell whereas I roughly recall JH recommended going to 46.
>
> Your heat treater is BS'ing you. I have used
> three different heat treaters over the years. One
> in Orlando, FL, one in Birmingham, AL, and my
> current heat treater in Anniston, AL. All have
> heat treated my gear legs and tail wheel struts to
> 48 RC.
>
> I used
> > 1.125 x .095 tubing, and I think JH had said his first design on
> his FS
> > of 1.00x.090 failed.
>
> Initially, I used 1.00 X .090 and 42 RC. Too soft
> and bent. Also not enough "beef".
>
> After the first set I used 1.125 X .120 hardened
> to 48 RC. I still have the set of legs from my
> Firestar. Good as the day I put them on the
> airplane.
>
> I use the same material and 48 RC for my MK III
> legs. The main difference is the MK III legs on
> my Brother Jim's main gear leg sockets are only
> 24" long. The Firestar legs were 35.5" long,
> shoved all the way up the socket. This put the FS
> in a perfect 3 pt stance.
>
> After failure of a seperate gear leg/axle socket
> in BC a couple years ago, I went with Bro Jim's
> advice and welded the axle socket to the gear
> leg. That way both socket and leg are heat
> treated equally. A little more difficult to align
> the main gear, but a Hell of a lot more reliable.
>
> john h
>
> PS: If anyone wants the heat treaters info in
> Anniston, let me know and I will post to the Kolb
> List. This firm is based in Jacksonville, FL, and
> have plants in Anniston and another location I can
> not remember at this time.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi all,
George alluded to the 'big-footed' Murphy pic on my web page, and I
thought I might as well fess up that as soon as I get airborne again in
the FS I will start in on a Murphy Rebel. It's the bush plane thing --
the Kolb got me hooked and, after getting my private ticket I just
found the opportunity to get a bigger bush plane too hard to resist. I
bought someone else's barely started project in Feb.
The Murphy Rebel, like the Kolb, is a solid design, very strong
airplane, responsive although stiffer control feel, and very capable as
a bush plane. My FS will keep me happy with good flying time in the
long road ahead in this next project.
-Ben
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Securing floor plates |
I used dune buggy seats, with upholstery inserts. Quite comfy, and not too
spendy...........but turned out to be a little heavier than I thought, at 6#
each. I'm going to experiment with contour foam, (?? - like John H. uses)
and a little lumbar support. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "CaptainRon" <aerialron(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Securing floor plates
>
> I guess I'll go with that. How about small self
> tapping screws? Has anyone tried that?
> I also have to make a decision about fuel tanks. I had
> one lister's whose email I saved as he builds alum
> tanks. However after my recent computer meltdown all
> my contacts were erased. So if you are still on the
> list please email me your address again.
> I remember a discussion a while ago about off the
> shelve fuel tanks, has anyone actually installed one
> of those marine plastic tanks.
> And my last question has to do with seats. Where can I
> get some real seats at a reasonable price that can go
> into a Kolb?
>
> thanks
>
>
> ========================
> I suggest you go with aluminum rivets though, as you
> will have to drill
> them out every now and then. Aluminum is strong
> enough to do the job,
> yet much easier to drill out.
>
> =====
> Building M3X
> Southern Arizona
>
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: my next project |
Nice choice Ben,
Linda and myself have been long admirerers of the Rebel, its awesome with
the 0320 Lycoming.
Happy building.
Denny Rowe
PS: My next project, in about 10 or 20 years :-) will be a Sonex. ( until
somethin better comes along)
----- Original Message -----
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: my next project
>
> Hi all,
> George alluded to the 'big-footed' Murphy pic on my web page, and I
> thought I might as well fess up that as soon as I get airborne again in
> the FS I will start in on a Murphy Rebel. It's the bush plane thing --
> the Kolb got me hooked and, after getting my private ticket I just
> found the opportunity to get a bigger bush plane too hard to resist. I
> bought someone else's barely started project in Feb.
>
> The Murphy Rebel, like the Kolb, is a solid design, very strong
> airplane, responsive although stiffer control feel, and very capable as
> a bush plane. My FS will keep me happy with good flying time in the
> long road ahead in this next project.
> -Ben
>
>
> =====
> http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy(at)lycos.com> |
| Subject: | Regulation Guidelines |
Thanks John,
I bookmarked that page...It should help me alot on this plane & I've
already bought the plans for my NEXT project - Steve Witman "Tailwind" ( 50th
anniversary ) Which this page will REALLY help.
Gotta Fly...
Mike , The garage should be heated up by now,time to
flip some parts and do some spray painting.
SNIP>>>>
The following is from AC 43-13:
AC 43.13-1B ACCEPTABLE METHODS, TECHNIQUES, AND
PRACTICES - AIRCRAFT INSPECTION AND REPAIR
September 8, 1998
(With Change 1 Incorporated)
f. Fiber or nylon locknuts are constructed with an
unthreaded fiber or nylon locking insert held
securely in place. The fiber or nylon insert
provides the locking action because it has a
smaller diameter than the nut. Fiber or nylon
self-locking nuts are not installed in areas where
temperatures exceed 250 F. After the nut has
been tightened, make sure the bolt or stud has at
least one thread showing past the nut. DO NOT
reuse a fiber or nylon locknut, if the nut cannot
meet the minimum prevailing torque values.
AC 43.13 has the answers right on the WWW:
http://av-info.faa.gov/dst/43-13/
john h
Sometimes you just have to take the leap
and build your wings on the way down...
Gotta Fly...
Get advanced SPAM filtering on Webmail or POP Mail ... Get Lycos Mail!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heat Treaters Address |
> John H,
> Could you please post the address of the heat treating outfit you used, I'm
just getting my gear legs ready to send off and would like to be sure they
are right. I'll let the list know how they came out when I get them back.
Terry Davis
Terry/Gang:
Here's the web site for the plant in Anniston, AL:
http://braddockmt.com/al.htm
Here's Braddock's home page. They are larger than
I thought:
http://braddockmt.com/al.htm
My gear legs were supposed to be hardened and
tempered to 48 RC, but came out of the kiln at
46-47 RC, which it good enough to get the job
done.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heat Treaters Address |
Hey Gang:
Braddock's national web site is:
http://braddockmt.com/al.htm
I might add, call the toll free number listed.
Tell the folks what you want done. You can send
items to them UPS and they will return UPS. They
usually have a minimum charge. So if you have two
dozen gear legs to heat treat, it will cost the
same as two gear legs. A couple years ago the
minimum charge was around $60.00.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Securing floor plates |
How does the contour foam works? do you have to build
a frame for it?
=============================
--- Larry Bourne wrote:
>
>
> I used dune buggy seats, with upholstery inserts.
> Quite comfy, and not too
> spendy...........but turned out to be a little
> heavier than I thought, at 6#
> each. I'm going to experiment with contour foam,
> (?? - like John H. uses)
> and a little lumbar support.
> Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> www.gogittum.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "CaptainRon" <aerialron(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Securing floor plates
>
>
>
> >
> > I guess I'll go with that. How about small self
> > tapping screws? Has anyone tried that?
> > I also have to make a decision about fuel tanks. I
> had
> > one lister's whose email I saved as he builds alum
> > tanks. However after my recent computer meltdown
> all
> > my contacts were erased. So if you are still on
> the
> > list please email me your address again.
> > I remember a discussion a while ago about off the
> > shelve fuel tanks, has anyone actually installed
> one
> > of those marine plastic tanks.
> > And my last question has to do with seats. Where
> can I
> > get some real seats at a reasonable price that can
> go
> > into a Kolb?
> >
> > thanks
> >
> >
> > ========================
> > I suggest you go with aluminum rivets though, as
> you
> > will have to drill
> > them out every now and then. Aluminum is strong
> > enough to do the job,
> > yet much easier to drill out.
> >
> > =====
> > Building M3X
> > Southern Arizona
> >
> > http://search.yahoo.com
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/kolb-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heat Treaters Address |
> Braddock's national web site is:
>
> http://braddockmt.com/al.htm
Gang:
Dad blame it!!! I just looked and still did not
get it right.
Shoulda been:
http://braddockmt.com/
20,000 xin loi's.................
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Securing floor plates |
Not sure if I got the right name. John ?? It's that space age foam rubber
that molds to your body under weight and warmth, and gives terrific support.
Comes in, I think, 3 firmness-es, and is fearsomely expensive. I got one of
those portable seat cushions from Oregon Aero for my tender ol' bony buns a
while back, and it cost me nearly $100.00, time it was shipped. Sure does
live up to advertising, tho'. Tender Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "CaptainRon" <aerialron(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Securing floor plates
>
> How does the contour foam works? do you have to build
> a frame for it?
>
> =============================
> --- Larry Bourne wrote:
> >
> >
> > I used dune buggy seats, with upholstery inserts.
> > Quite comfy, and not too
> > spendy...........but turned out to be a little
> > heavier than I thought, at 6#
> > each. I'm going to experiment with contour foam,
> > (?? - like John H. uses)
> > and a little lumbar support.
> > Lar.
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Securing floor plates |
> Not sure if I got the right name. John ?? It's that space age foam rubber
> that molds to your body under weight and warmth, and gives terrific support.
> Comes in, I think, 3 firmness-es, and is fearsomely expensive.
> Larry Bourne
Larry/Gents:
Try Temper Foam, ergonomic foam (I think that is
what the seat cushions in the space shuttle are
made of). It does what you say.
I put a piece on the seat bottom of Miss P'fer.
Prior to this I could fly 30 min and have an
aching butt. I mean aching bad. The temperfoam
takes care of that problem. I have not suffered
from butt ache since I started sitting on it.
Mine is 1.5" thick and is "firm". Comes in medium
and soft.
This foam makes crashing a little more
survivable. Temper foam does not rebound like
normal foam rubber. The rebound of seat cushions
improves chances of getting hurt.
It is worth every penny it cost.
I got mine from Aircraft Spruce. Temperfoam has a
web site.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Gang:
This web site explains ergonomic foam better than
I can:
http://www.aviationdesign.com/confor.html
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | getting it all together |
99.5% done; 30% to go.
Lar, that sounds just about corect...... by the time you get it in the air you
will know what i mean.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | fasten floor plates |
Has anyone installed and fastened their floor plates
without using rivets into the tubing?
my main floor plate is fastened down without rivits.... however the front plate
i taped some holes in and put in some small ( 8- 32 ) bolts... the side
view of the main floor looks like
________________
( )
i just snapes over the structual members..... i had to add some metal to make
it long enough to get the ends bent over to hold.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
> What's the regulation on exposed threads...( 3 ??? )
the faa told me 1 1/2 showing.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ronnie wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
was the ultrastar ever a plans built?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bruce L Borg <blborg(at)juno.com> |
Ronnie
When I built it was a plans and material kit. They gave you a box of
tubing and fabric and plans. You had to do all the welding, about 150
hours of welding alone. Later they prvided a welded cage for another
$850.
Bruce
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ergonomic Foam |
Hi Gang,
Here's a response that I got from a company that sells the special seat
foam. The price quote listed is for a 16 x 18 inch cushion. I have two
pieces of this material already that came with the Mark III kit I bought
from Jeremy Casey. The pieces I have are 1 inch thick in what I would think
to be a medium or soft firmness. I think the medium on top of a firm piece
would be the way to go. The piece that I have by it's self is not enough. I
have been using it in my Firestar on top of a hard foam cushion and my
duration is about 1 hour or so. Hope this helps.
Later,
John Cooley
Snip.........
We apologize for the delay in answering your e-mail request. We arrived
back home Lincoln, NE from Sun n Fun. Now for the fun part of unloading the
truck and catching up with our orders.
How thick can your cushion be? Confor Foam compresses about 1/2 ( a two
inch would raise you approximately one inch off the hard foam base). A
cushion consisting of one inch of firm and one inch of medium would run
$54.00.
Thanks for looking us up on the web
http://www.seatfoam.com/index.htm
Sincerely,
Jim and Janice Fix
End Snip..........
>
> Gang:
>
> This web site explains ergonomic foam better than
> I can:
>
> http://www.aviationdesign.com/confor.html
>
> john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ronnie wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
what would be the chance that you still have the plans? there are 2 here
that fell in love with mine and really want one.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce L Borg" <blborg(at)juno.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: ultrastar
>
> Ronnie
> When I built it was a plans and material kit. They gave you a box of
> tubing and fabric and plans. You had to do all the welding, about 150
> hours of welding alone. Later they prvided a welded cage for another
> $850.
> Bruce
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com> |
Bruce L Borg wrote:
>
>
> Ronnie
> When I built it was a plans and material kit. They gave you a box of
> tubing and fabric and plans. You had to do all the welding, about 150
> hours of welding alone. Later they prvided a welded cage for another
> $850.
> Bruce
>
Hello Mr. Borg,
Your name sounds vaguely familiar. Did you perhaps sell your Ultrastar
kit partially built?
Was it ever part of a school project? I completed one in the mid
eighties that was partially built and I was wondering if it could
possibly have been yours?
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ergonomic Foam |
What part of the country do you live in - on factor of the foam is it gets
firmer when cold. According to the foam vendor at Sun & Fun if your
located in the North you might want to use a soft layer and medium plus a
firm, in the warmer South, a medium and a firm.
jerb
>
>Hi Gang,
>
>Here's a response that I got from a company that sells the special seat
>foam. The price quote listed is for a 16 x 18 inch cushion. I have two
>pieces of this material already that came with the Mark III kit I bought
>from Jeremy Casey. The pieces I have are 1 inch thick in what I would think
>to be a medium or soft firmness. I think the medium on top of a firm piece
>would be the way to go. The piece that I have by it's self is not enough. I
>have been using it in my Firestar on top of a hard foam cushion and my
>duration is about 1 hour or so. Hope this helps.
>
>
>Later,
>John Cooley
>
>
>Snip.........
>
>We apologize for the delay in answering your e-mail request. We arrived
>back home Lincoln, NE from Sun n Fun. Now for the fun part of unloading the
>truck and catching up with our orders.
>
>How thick can your cushion be? Confor Foam compresses about 1/2 ( a two
>inch would raise you approximately one inch off the hard foam base). A
>cushion consisting of one inch of firm and one inch of medium would run
>$54.00.
>
>Thanks for looking us up on the web
>http://www.seatfoam.com/index.htm
>
>Sincerely,
>Jim and Janice Fix
>
>End Snip..........
>
>
> >
> > Gang:
> >
> > This web site explains ergonomic foam better than
> > I can:
> >
> > http://www.aviationdesign.com/confor.html
> >
> > john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FIXERJONES(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Heat Treaters Address |
why heat treat the gearlegs? won't they get more brittle? crack easyer?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fasten floor plates |
I thought about doing that, but was not sure if it
would rattle. I am fastening it now with small screws
and I may go to alum rivets if the screws start
working themselves out. So far the main plate is
fastened by 6 fasteners, I hope it will be enough to
keep it from rattling.
===============
> Has anyone installed and fastened their floor plates
> without using rivets into the tubing?
>
> my main floor plate is fastened down without
> rivits.... however the front plate i taped some
> holes in and put in some small ( 8- 32 ) bolts...
> the side view of the main floor looks like
>
> ________________
> ( )
>
> i just snapes over the structual members..... i
> had to add some metal to make it long enough to get
> the ends bent over to hold.
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/kolb-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Hauck" <jimh474(at)velocityonline.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Heat Treaters Address |
You heat treat the gear legs to make them a spring. In a normal state they
are too rigid and will bend.
Keeping the hardness below 48 Rockwell will not make them brittle.
Jim Hauck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fasten floor plates |
I welded little tabs to the different tubes and used
"U" type NAS 395 Tinnerman nuts.
Note: use with type "B" sheet metal screws.
Pages 86 & 90 of the Aircraft Spruce catalog.
Simple and easy to put in and out, which is important
since my wiring harness is under the floor plates.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ergonomic Foam |
> What part of the country do you live in - on factor of the foam is it gets
> firmer when cold.
> jerb
jerb/Gang:
You got that right. In the winter my Temperfoam
gets hard as a rock. However, in a matter of
minutes, the warmth from my boney butt has caused
the Temperfoam to conform perfectly to every
contour and crease.
I just pulled out my 2000/2001 Aircraft Spruce
Catalog. Sure enough they still have Temperfoam,
but it is a combination laminate of
soft/med/hard. In 1993 or 94, I bought one piece
of hard that was 1X16X18 inches. That piece of
foam was worth every penny I paid for it. I tried
it out by flying 234 hours in 41 days. Never once
got a butt ache. 30 mins on the original seat and
I was in severe butt cramps. Reminded me of the
sheet metal shelf with what used to be a cushion
that was called the seat in a Bell OH-13
helicopter.
I have been flying on the same piece of foam since
then. My friend, Bill Griffin, on this List, flew
with me from Alabama to Thomasville, GA,
Evergreen, AL, and home in 1994. I had
Temperfoam, he didn't. When he got home he order
two pieces of Temperfoam. One for his Firestar
and one for the left seat of my MK III.
If you have a choice, no matter wear you live, buy
a single piece of 1" hard Temperfoam. Does not
matter how cold and hard it is. In a very short
time it will soften from you body heat and
conform. Works good in hot weather too.
I would not tell ya if it weren't so. :-)
john h (tested foam for over 1,500 hours, don't
leave home without it)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ergonomic Foam |
Call Wicks men, I bought 2 pieces of foam from them...one pink/medium, and
one blue/hard...They have a whole stack on cut-offs in the lobby there,, 1
in.X 16 or 18 inch squares...CHEAP...12 or 14 bucks!... Im sitting on the
pink one now...its been in this chair for 4 months. The Blue one is on the
seat of my Mother-in-laws wheelchair. So im gonna have to go back and get
more! I have plans for several. One for my airplane. and Im gonna try an get
my wife to make some denim covers for several more, just for throw around
seat pads. It truely is amazin stuff!.
Like John says, Its hard when its cold but that doesn't matter cause it
warms up pretty quick and really conforms.
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098
(one wing surface and cage left to cover!!!!!)......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fasten floor plates |
> Btw tinkering with butts, I sure would like
> some protection between the south end, and those
> thorny cacti. Has anyone fastened Al plates under the
> seats? they seem to fit with no trouble if they are
> fastened from the bottom side (SS rivets of course) RON
Ron/Gang:
Yes, I have aluminum pans under my plastic
(Ultrastar) seats. However, I have a welded
square tube seat frame that the seats are mounted
on. The aluminum pans are riveted to the seat
frame, a trick I learned from the Jungle and Radio
Service (JARS) pilots. One of their pilots
stalled and pancaked a Helio Courier. He would
have walked away from the crash had the seat not
gone through the 4130 seat frame, injuring his
spine and causing paralysis from the waist down.
The aluminum pan, riveted with SS rivets, is to
prevent me going through the 4130 seat frame
should the need arise. Would also prevent
something from coming up through the bottom of the
fuselage.
I don't know what kind of seats are in the MK
IIIX, but imagine they are the old sling seats.
Do you plan on mounting the aluminum pans on the
top of the bottom longerons and tubes? One thing
that bothered me, and one of the reasons we went
with the Ultrastar seats, was the cross tube that
hits me right in the tail bone on a standard MK
III sling seat. I did not like that and felt it
might be a problem waiting to happen.
I have survived some fairly serious crashes in the
Ultrastar, Firestar, and the MK III. Was able to
walk away from them all. Contribute that to the
excellent crashworthiness built into the kolb line
of airplanes. Haven't had a bad one in more than
11 years (knock on wood). Hoping I never see
another.
Time is getting short. About 3 weeks until I
depart for points west. This morning I will build
new vertical stabilizer. Probably take 8 days to
complete through paint and one more day to
reinstall the tail section. That'll give me
enough time to fly some before departure for
Monument Valley. Usually, if something is going
to break or go wrong, it will a day or two before
departure.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ergonomic Foam |
Best price so far is from Wicks, 16" X 18" X 1" foam pad for $16.
Extra soft part# 19016
Soft part# 19017
Medium part# 19018
Stiff part# 19019
1-800-221-9425
It's on page 57
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ergonomic Foam |
> Stiff part# 19019
> Richard Pike
Morning Richard/Gang:
Can't go wrong with $16 each.
The above is what I have been using for almost 10
yrs. I think I paid $25 from Aircraft Spruce.
One inch thick gets the job done. When I bought
mine, the sales person recommended "stiff". I
didn't really think that was the way to go, but
since it was recommended went ahead and ordered
it. Now that I have had plenty time to use the
"stiff" foam I am glad I did. It works in
freezing and well as tropical temps. Takes a
little longer to warmup and conform when it is
cold, but still works great. I have not need for
anything thicker than 1".
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Key" <dhkey(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Heat Treat Question |
I bent a gear leg. Found out how much a new one costs. Then sent it to a
machine shop to bend it back. They heated it to do it. They said it would
ruin the heat treating. I said go ahead. I put the leg back on the plane. It
works fine so far. Do I have a more brittle gear leg now? Will it spring
back? If I send it off to get heat treated will they have to somehow wash
off all the old heat treating. Then start with the new one? I don't
understand a thing about this.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Securing Floor Plates |
CaptainRon wrote: << Has anyone installed and fastened their floor plates
without using rivets into the tubing? >>
Cap'n Ron, and Kolbers -
I secured my floorpans using short stainless steel sheet metal screws.
My reasoning was not from concern of weakening cage structure, but to
provide easy access to stuff under the floors. And it's already paid off.
Glad I did it this way.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, Verner, Powerfin-72 in
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Allman" <fisherallman(at)earthlink.net> |
Evening kolbers,
I'm a long time lurker looking for some slingshot specs.
Anyone have a ballpark VNE or VNO for a slingshot?
Thanks,
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Woods" <kolbpilot(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: slingshot VNE |
120 mph. But I've seen 130.
Bill Woods
912S Slingshot
From: "Joe Allman" <FISHERALLMAN(at)EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject: Kolb-List: slingshot VNE
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 20:52:02 -0400
-- Kolb-List message posted by: "Joe Allman"
Evening kolbers,
I'm a long time lurker looking for some slingshot specs.
Anyone have a ballpark VNE or VNO for a slingshot?
Thanks,
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Securing Floor Plates |
I agree, I bought a box of #6 ss screws earlier today
at Ace Aerospace :-)
I'll use those on the remaining plates.
================================================
I secured my floorpans using short stainless steel
sheet metal screws.
My reasoning was not from concern of weakening cage
structure, but to
provide easy access to stuff under the floors. And
it's already paid
off.
Glad I did it this way.
=====
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Austin" <joandlp(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | Mark III pics ?? |
BlankHello Group,
Anyone know of a site that has some good pics, inside and out, of a Mark III
Xtra? Thanks in advance,
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Allman" <fisherallman(at)earthlink.net> |
Thanks Bill,
120 is what I thought I remembered.
How about the upper end of the VNO?
I'm trying to color code my ASI.
Thanks again,
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Woods
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: slingshot VNE
120 mph. But I've seen 130.
Bill Woods
912S Slingshot
From: "Joe Allman" <FISHERALLMAN(at)EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject: Kolb-List: slingshot VNE
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 20:52:02 -0400
-- Kolb-List message posted by: "Joe Allman"
Evening kolbers,
I'm a long time lurker looking for some slingshot specs.
Anyone have a ballpark VNE or VNO for a slingshot?
Thanks,
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Allman" <fisherallman(at)earthlink.net> |
130? Big engine or gravity assist?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Woods
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: slingshot VNE
120 mph. But I've seen 130.
Bill Woods
912S Slingshot
From: "Joe Allman" <FISHERALLMAN(at)EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject: Kolb-List: slingshot VNE
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 20:52:02 -0400
-- Kolb-List message posted by: "Joe Allman"
Evening kolbers,
I'm a long time lurker looking for some slingshot specs.
Anyone have a ballpark VNE or VNO for a slingshot?
Thanks,
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Woods" <kolbpilot(at)msn.com> |
Normal cruise aruond 5000 rpm is about 100-105 mph with 912S.
Bill
From: "Joe Allman" <FISHERALLMAN(at)EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: slingshot VNE
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 21:38:51 -0400
-- Kolb-List message posted by: "Joe Allman"
Thanks Bill,
120 is what I thought I remembered.
How about the upper end of the VNO?
I'm trying to color code my ASI.
Thanks again,
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Woods
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: slingshot VNE
-- Kolb-List message posted by: "Bill Woods"
120 mph. But I've seen 130.
Bill Woods
912S Slingshot
From: "Joe Allman" <FISHERALLMAN(at)EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject: Kolb-List: slingshot VNE
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 20:52:02 -0400
-- Kolb-List message posted by: "Joe Allman"
Evening kolbers,
I'm a long time lurker looking for some slingshot specs.
Anyone have a ballpark VNE or VNO for a slingshot?
Thanks,
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Woods" <kolbpilot(at)msn.com> |
5500 rpm will show around 115 mph, add a little dive and watch the speed rise.
Bill
From: "Joe Allman" <FISHERALLMAN(at)EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: slingshot VNE
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 21:40:17 -0400
-- Kolb-List message posted by: "Joe Allman"
130? Big engine or gravity assist?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Woods
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: slingshot VNE
-- Kolb-List message posted by: "Bill Woods"
120 mph. But I've seen 130.
Bill Woods
912S Slingshot
From: "Joe Allman" <FISHERALLMAN(at)EARTHLINK.NET>
Subject: Kolb-List: slingshot VNE
Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 20:52:02 -0400
-- Kolb-List message posted by: "Joe Allman"
Evening kolbers,
I'm a long time lurker looking for some slingshot specs.
Anyone have a ballpark VNE or VNO for a slingshot?
Thanks,
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III pics ?? |
Larry,
Check the PhotoShare maybe, and I think Lisa Turners web sight probably has
some nice photos of her Extra. You can find a link to her web sight at TNKs
web.
Denny Rowe
Mk-3, western PA
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Austin <joandlp(at)starband.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Mark III pics ??
>
> BlankHello Group,
> Anyone know of a site that has some good pics, inside and out, of a Mark
III
> Xtra? Thanks in advance,
>
> Larry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kuffel <kuffel(at)cyberport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: exposed threads |
Boyd, et. al.
<<
the faa told me 1 1/2 showing.>>>
Actually, there is no such regulation. There is a common practice which
goes back to at least the AN hardware standard of WW II which is no less
than 1 and no more than 3 threads showing. But to understand the
practice it helps to understand the reasoning behind it.
The purpose is to have the entire shear load of the fitting be taken by
the shank of the bolt. The threads are not designed to take any of the
side loads of a fitting. Thus the AN standard said no more than 1 and
1/2 threads could be inside the fitting but the shank shouldn't stick
out so far from the fitting that the nut could bottom out on the shank.
With standard nuts and bolts available in 1/8 inch length increments,
all of these goals could be assured without having to disassemble the
fitting by saying 1 to 3 threads exposed with 1 to 3 standard thickness
washers under the nut.
For more information see my post of Sat at 2:35pm with the same Subject.
Tom Kuffel
Whitefish, MT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mark III Pictures |
Larry,
Check out . You will find a series of pictures documenting
the building of "Duh Plane".
The pictures of the completed plane are the highest number. 559b, 559g, and 559i.
Ray Baker
Gainsville, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Austin <joandlp(at)starband.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Mark III pics ??
>
> BlankHello Group,
> Anyone know of a site that has some good pics, inside and out, of a Mark
III
> Xtra? Thanks in advance,
>
> Larry
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | can I buy a new gearbox without a Rotax engine |
| From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
04/22/2003 01:13:05 PM
This used to be a rule, gearboxes sold only for use on Rotax engines, meybe
its loosened up a bit now.
If I start to get serious about swapping my Rotax 582 out for a BMW R100,
what would I go thru to obtain a new "C" box from Rotax? Could I buy one
by giving them my old 582 serial number or something? I don't want a Hirth
box, only a Rotax "C" box will be considered.
What is a perfect 582 with 170 hours TT worth? has dual carbs, HAC, oil
injection, HPC coated exhaust system, "C" box, powerfin prop, dual rotax
radiators, more. Its working beautifully on my MKiii , and will continue
to fly on there unless/until I actually sell it and jump into the BMW
thing.
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Judy Gitt" <gittj(at)earthlink.net> |
I Just thought I would pass this on to all of you Kolb people. The Feds gave
me the Ok Monday, April 21 and that Kolbra just jumped right off the ground.
I have 4 hrs on it and it flies great. Thanks to all the Kolb people - Ray ,
Linda , Travis. Larry Gitt - Fremont, Nebraska
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> The Feds gave me the Ok Monday, April 21 and that Kolbra just jumped right
off the ground. Larry Gitt - Fremont, Nebraska
Congratulations Larry!
That is good news.
I guess your Kolbra is the second to fly behind
John Williamson's.
If I were ever to build another airplane, that is
the one I would build.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
I thought about using these kevlar things - but
they cost too much and wouldn't fit in a single seater.
http://www.saferacer.com/ompracingseats.html
>===========
>
>After JH and others recommended that spiffy super butt
>messaging foam, I have started thinking that maybe the
>fastest and easiest thing to do is to make my own
>seats (getting a posterior message while
>flying,,????). I have had some ideas about crush
>worthy seats for a few years, and I think this maybe
>the time to actually translate a thought into reality.
>Once I am done with the floor plates, and I know where
>everything is I think I'll do it. I am trying to avoid
>welding like a Chinese avoiding SARS, but I may have
>no choice here. It will be cheap and ugly but it will
>also be light and very protective. I'll post some pics
>once I am done with them *if* I do it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
>
> >> The Feds gave me the Ok Monday, April 21 and that Kolbra just jumped
>> right
>> off the ground. Larry Gitt - Fremont, Nebraska
>>
>
Congratulations on your 1st. flight in the Kolbra, Larry. Hope you have many
hrs. flying and enjoying it.
Fly safe
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net> |
Here is a link to airplane hardware:
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/authors/bingelis/Are%20You%20Using%20Aircraft%20Hardware%20Correctly_.html#TopOfPage
Clay Stuart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net> |
"Sportplane Construction Techniques" by Tony Bingelis has a nice section on making
seats out of lawn chairs. That is how I made the seats for my Xtra. I cut
apart Walmart lawn chairs and made them the correct size to fit and then reinforced/spliced
all the cuts with inside full-length aluminum tubing left over
from my Kolb kit. They are still at the upholsterer, who has rewebbed the seats,
cut the foam wedges and is just about to finish sewing the fabric.
Clay Stuart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Volum" <peterv(at)etsmiami.com> |
| Subject: | Firestar wants to roll |
Kolbers:
A retired United (non-computing) pilot friend and LAFA club member has
just bought a Firestar II (503 DCDI/3-Blade Ivo) that was meticulously
built by another of our club members.
Picture:
http://lafa.station193.com/Photos/2003-04-05%20AMPS/P1002425.jpg
He still owns his previous plane, a Kolb Ultrastar that was built by one
of the other members of this group. (Sorry - I don't remember your
name).
Pictures towards the bottom of page:
http://lafa.station193.com/2003-03-29%20Marathon.htm
This question is about the Firestar.
In straight and level flight, it wants to roll to the left. Right stick
pressure is needed to keep the wings level.
When stalling, the right wing drops sharply. It seems to want to go into
a spin. The drop is controllable with the rudder, but he says it just
"doesn't feel quite right" compared to the Ultrastar.
Bob is a very experienced pilot with tens of thousands of hours in GA
and hundreds of hours in UL's of all makes and models, but he's never
built a Kolb.
The builder of this plane had previously made a hard landing (a stall
from about 5') that broke the undercarriage and bent the frame. It was
repaired before Bob bought it and the repairs appear to have been done
properly, but it is possible that something may still be out of line.
Bob is in the process of taking precise measurements to see if anything
is out of whack, but in the meantime he's asked me if I think an
adjustment to the angle of attack of one of the wings might rectify this
problem. He feels that the right wing dropping before the left during
stalls combined with the left roll when in level flight implies that
there is a greater angle of attack on the right wing, and that this
could be rectified by a slight modification at the pivot point(s) where
the wing(s) fold. (ie, by lowering the trailing edge of the left wing a
fraction, and/or raising the right one).
I suggested he hold off from making any adjustments until I got some
feedback from you guys just in case this is a common problem that has a
less radical fix (like adding a trim tab).
Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.
Peter Volum
Kolb Mk. III / 912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Judy Gitt" <gittj(at)earthlink.net> |
Thanks Guys, I started Building in March of last year and had it done in Dec .
But the BRS took over 3 Mouths to get hear , Besides it was cold out in the
Hanger . Good old Nebr . It stall 40 to 42 at 55 rpm to 58 it indicate
75 -78 Lands great , I like the view looking back at the leading edge of the
wing .. That a change,Yes this has a 582 on it . Larry Gitt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hans vanAlphen" <hva(at)bellsouth.net> |
Jim, I had to provide them with a 582 serial no. to get a Rotax C gearbox.
Also a Zanzorotta gearbox has been used with the BMW on a Liberty trike for over
100 hours. see
http://community.webtv/rlwalden/libertyBMW
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar wants to roll |
Peter,
His suspicion of a difference in angle of incidence between the wings is
just what I suspect from reading your post. Let us know if his measurements
show this to be the case. A digital Smart Level would be real handy for
comparing wing incidences.
Denny Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Volum <peterv(at)etsmiami.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Firestar wants to roll
>
>
> Kolbers:
>
> A retired United (non-computing) pilot friend and LAFA club member has
> just bought a Firestar II (503 DCDI/3-Blade Ivo) that was meticulously
> built by another of our club members.
>
> Picture:
> http://lafa.station193.com/Photos/2003-04-05%20AMPS/P1002425.jpg
>
>
> He still owns his previous plane, a Kolb Ultrastar that was built by one
> of the other members of this group. (Sorry - I don't remember your
> name).
>
> Pictures towards the bottom of page:
> http://lafa.station193.com/2003-03-29%20Marathon.htm
>
> This question is about the Firestar.
>
> In straight and level flight, it wants to roll to the left. Right stick
> pressure is needed to keep the wings level.
>
> When stalling, the right wing drops sharply. It seems to want to go into
> a spin. The drop is controllable with the rudder, but he says it just
> "doesn't feel quite right" compared to the Ultrastar.
>
> Bob is a very experienced pilot with tens of thousands of hours in GA
> and hundreds of hours in UL's of all makes and models, but he's never
> built a Kolb.
>
> The builder of this plane had previously made a hard landing (a stall
> from about 5') that broke the undercarriage and bent the frame. It was
> repaired before Bob bought it and the repairs appear to have been done
> properly, but it is possible that something may still be out of line.
>
> Bob is in the process of taking precise measurements to see if anything
> is out of whack, but in the meantime he's asked me if I think an
> adjustment to the angle of attack of one of the wings might rectify this
> problem. He feels that the right wing dropping before the left during
> stalls combined with the left roll when in level flight implies that
> there is a greater angle of attack on the right wing, and that this
> could be rectified by a slight modification at the pivot point(s) where
> the wing(s) fold. (ie, by lowering the trailing edge of the left wing a
> fraction, and/or raising the right one).
>
> I suggested he hold off from making any adjustments until I got some
> feedback from you guys just in case this is a common problem that has a
> less radical fix (like adding a trim tab).
>
> Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.
>
> Peter Volum
> Kolb Mk. III / 912
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hans vanAlphen" <hva(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Zanzottera Gearbox |
correction
http://community-2.webtv/rlwalden/libertyBMW
Hans
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar wants to roll |
Checking the wing incidence is simple -- really just a piece of the
wing alignment process in the build manual. A level placed on the
underside of the wings, better if done in a few places such as root,
middle, and end of each wing. Doing in a few places reveals any wing
twist. See if the incidence angle numbers match between the two wings.
You wouldn't really even need to raise the tail to get them to 0
degrees to make the comparison.
Another question, and possible adjustment, is whether there is any slop
in the rear spar/U-joint. Slop allows the rear of that wing to move up
or down with aerodynamic load (blech). Slop corrected by perhaps
getting one more slot turn on the castle nut of the Ujoint, and is
really nice if you customize the thickness of the washer under the
Ujoint (using ~120 grit sandpaper, oil, and elbow grease to take off a
few thousanths). The other possible adjustment could come from simply
unbolting the wing from the Ujoint, turning the Ujoint over 180
degrees, and rechecking wing incidense -- some fussing with Ujoint
assembly combiniations may be required.
Of course there is the more troublesome scenario where the cage is
still not aligned. However, no cage is perfect and that is why the
wing alignment is part airplane building (or rebuilding).
Third thing I spose to check -- is the tail straight? The vert stab
should be straight and in line with a plumb line hung from top center
of the 2" keel tube. Best done if a piece of straight stock placed
along the length of the keel tube and hanging plumb from one end, or,
hanging a plumb line from each end of the keel tube and seeing if the
vert stab forms a straight line to both. I'm thinking these results
need not be very exact.
He's not flying with one foot out the side is he? Hmmm, wings are the
same length too, right?
-Ben
--- Peter Volum wrote:
>
>
> Kolbers:
>
> A retired United (non-computing) pilot friend and LAFA club member
> has
> just bought a Firestar II (503 DCDI/3-Blade Ivo) that was
> meticulously
> built by another of our club members.
>
> Picture:
> http://lafa.station193.com/Photos/2003-04-05%20AMPS/P1002425.jpg
>
>
> He still owns his previous plane, a Kolb Ultrastar that was built by
> one
> of the other members of this group. (Sorry - I don't remember your
> name).
>
> Pictures towards the bottom of page:
> http://lafa.station193.com/2003-03-29%20Marathon.htm
>
> This question is about the Firestar.
>
> In straight and level flight, it wants to roll to the left. Right
> stick
> pressure is needed to keep the wings level.
>
> When stalling, the right wing drops sharply. It seems to want to go
> into
> a spin. The drop is controllable with the rudder, but he says it
> just
> "doesn't feel quite right" compared to the Ultrastar.
>
> Bob is a very experienced pilot with tens of thousands of hours in GA
> and hundreds of hours in UL's of all makes and models, but he's never
> built a Kolb.
>
> The builder of this plane had previously made a hard landing (a stall
> from about 5') that broke the undercarriage and bent the frame. It
> was
> repaired before Bob bought it and the repairs appear to have been
> done
> properly, but it is possible that something may still be out of line.
>
> Bob is in the process of taking precise measurements to see if
> anything
> is out of whack, but in the meantime he's asked me if I think an
> adjustment to the angle of attack of one of the wings might rectify
> this
> problem. He feels that the right wing dropping before the left
> during
> stalls combined with the left roll when in level flight implies that
> there is a greater angle of attack on the right wing, and that this
> could be rectified by a slight modification at the pivot point(s)
> where
> the wing(s) fold. (ie, by lowering the trailing edge of the left wing
> a
> fraction, and/or raising the right one).
>
> I suggested he hold off from making any adjustments until I got some
> feedback from you guys just in case this is a common problem that has
> a
> less radical fix (like adding a trim tab).
>
> Any suggestions or comments would be appreciated.
>
> Peter Volum
> Kolb Mk. III / 912
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Here's another el cheapo souce for that butt-conformal seat stuff:
Someone buys a Memory Foam Ultra Mattress Topper (approx 39" wide, 72"
long, inch thick) for $99.90+12.95 S&H. It'll cut into 8 pcs 19.5" by
18"--for $14.10 each. No tax if sent to most any state except VA.
TechnoScout www.technoscout.com
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
The club plane is going well but I have not been as active in it's
construction recently. In my absence the members have installed the
radiator system. It is mounted lower than the engine but the fill is above
the engine. They moved it up by soldering 1 1/2 copper tube together. Does
anyone see a problem with this? I do not know how well the soldered joints
will stand up to the vibration. Any ideas or comments?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FIXERJONES(at)aol.com |
i'm not a 100%shure but,,?? won't the aluminum engine cooling system when
mixing copper with it cause electrolisis(erosion of the parts inside the
cooling system?
comments anyone? steve j
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
If it's isolated from vibration, it should be OK.................such as the
radiator in a car. If not, it won't last long. Also, if it's a slip, or
over-lapping joint, as in an elbow or coupling, it'll be very strong, in
comparison to a butt joint. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: copper
>
> The club plane is going well but I have not been as active in it's
> construction recently. In my absence the members have installed the
> radiator system. It is mounted lower than the engine but the fill is above
> the engine. They moved it up by soldering 1 1/2 copper tube together.
Does
> anyone see a problem with this? I do not know how well the soldered joints
> will stand up to the vibration. Any ideas or comments?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
I think this came up some time ago, but here it is again..................graphics.
I've been thinking (??) that it'd be way cool to have either vinyl or mylar
(which is best, anyway ??) stick-ons made up with a custom "Vamoose" graphic
for the side of the fuselage. Also, as I said a couple of years ago - - -
a dirt pawing, steam snorting "moose" on the tail. Today, I started to implement
the idea, and got a - rude ! ! ! - awakening. Graphics lady I talked to
on the phone was very pleasant, very interested, and a real pleasure to talk to.
She knew immediately what I had in mind, and really seemed to like the idea.....................then
popped the bubble by quoting a starting price for the
design process only, of $800.00. I did say "starting price" and "design only"
and I didn't stutter. Then I'd take her graphics to a sign shop for another
bite. Called a sign shop she recommended, and they confirmed it all. Threw
me for a loop, it did, and I imagine you all can guess that there'll be no $1,000.00+
name tags on Vamoose. Do any of you guys have any suggestions, or
options ?? Any (cheap) artists in the crowd ?? Sticker-shocked
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vincehallam(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: copper plus brazing |
Hi
Is brazing a bad idea for main frame steel joints
,I might find it easier than welding
Vnz
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
The forecast for SE Michigan says upper 50's, mostly sunny, and winds predicted
as light ALL day, not over 7mph. Work can go hang! Time for me to fly!
-Ken Fackler
Mark II / 503
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
Those radiator expansion tanks that they sell for over $100? Guess what
they are held together with? (I know that because I have taken them apart
and reconfigured them.) I have several soldered pipe fittings on my latest
582 radiator/heater valve rig, have used them before, they work fine, they
are sort of away from the engine and the rubber hoses soak up enough
vibration to protect them. If you can do good solder joints, don't worry.
But it is heavy.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
> The club plane is going well but I have not been as active in it's
>construction recently. In my absence the members have installed the
>radiator system. It is mounted lower than the engine but the fill is above
>the engine. They moved it up by soldering 1 1/2 copper tube together. Does
>anyone see a problem with this? I do not know how well the soldered joints
>will stand up to the vibration. Any ideas or comments?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: copper plus brazing |
Think in terms of removing the AN bolts from your Kolb and replacing them
with brass ones from Lowes - scary huh? You would -as it were- recoil in
horror. Brazing fits into the same category. Brazing is absolutely,
positively unacceptable for any structural anything in aircraft. OK for
secondary, non load bearing structures like cup holders, gps mounts, relief
tubes, etc.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Hi
> Is brazing a bad idea for main frame steel joints
> ,I might find it easier than welding
> Vnz
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ronnie wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
go spend 30-40 dollars on Microsoft home publishing and do your own, its a
nice little program. I use it to make flyers, brochures and such for people
around here.I might just see what I can do???.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Graphics
>
> I think this came up some time ago, but here it is
again..................graphics. I've been thinking (??) that it'd be way
cool to have either vinyl or mylar (which is best, anyway ??) stick-ons made
up with a custom "Vamoose" graphic for the side of the fuselage. Also, as I
said a couple of years ago - - - a dirt pawing, steam snorting "moose" on
the tail. Today, I started to implement the idea, and got a - rude ! ! ! -
awakening. Graphics lady I talked to on the phone was very pleasant, very
interested, and a real pleasure to talk to. She knew immediately what I had
in mind, and really seemed to like the idea.....................then popped
the bubble by quoting a starting price for the design process only, of
$800.00. I did say "starting price" and "design only" and I didn't stutter.
Then I'd take her graphics to a sign shop for another bite. Called a sign
shop she recommended, and they confirmed it all. Threw me for a loop, it
did, and I imagine you all can g!
> uess that there'll be no $1,000.00+ name tags on Vamoose. Do any of
you guys have any suggestions, or options ?? Any (cheap) artists in the
crowd ?? Sticker-shocked Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> www.gogittum.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
04/24/2003 07:41:41 AM
>From: woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
>Subject: Kolb-List: copper
> The club plane is going well but I have not been as active in it's
>construction recently. In my absence the members have installed the
>radiator system. It is mounted lower than the engine but the fill is above
>the engine. They moved it up by soldering 1 1/2 copper tube together.
Does
>anyone see a problem with this? I do not know how well the soldered joints
>will stand up to the vibration. Any ideas or comments?
This question raises a good point. In "Experimenter" magazine, one of the
popular articles follows aircraft construction and engine installs by a guy
named Whittier, I believe (could have that name wrong, may be best if I do
have it wrong). I don't know anything about Whittier, but he seems to be
some kind of expert and he takes good photos of his work. However, in a
couple issues back, when he is shown building up his cooling system
fittings from copper tube fittings, he does not include a hose retention
feature, such as a ring or barb. . His photos do not show any barb
features being added and I cannot find mention of them in the text. This
is a definite mistake in a system of heated and pressurized liquid such as
an engine cooling system. I believe Rotax also has a recommendation to
avoid household plumbing parts and also to always incorporate barb
fittings. Simply clamping a hose to a smooth tube (whatever the
material), does not ensure it will stay on when subjected to heating,
pressurization, creep of the rubber in the hose, and loosening of the
typical worm-drive hose clamp do to expansion/contraction cycles and
vibration.
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
Good point. However, there is something about the nature of copper pipe
that it seems to have an affinity for rubber. Clamp a rubber hose to it,
leave it for a few days, and you have to stick a flat screwdriver into the
interface to pry them apart, they seem to bond to each other, and after a
while, there will be little bits of rubber stick to the copper. Aluminum
tubes do not do that, I have used aluminum tubing before in my watercooled
plumbing and that bond never develops.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> >From: woody <duesouth(at)govital.net>
> >Subject: Kolb-List: copper
>
>
> > The club plane is going well but I have not been as active in it's
> >construction recently. In my absence the members have installed the
> >radiator system. It is mounted lower than the engine but the fill is above
>
> >the engine. They moved it up by soldering 1 1/2 copper tube together.
>Does
> >anyone see a problem with this? I do not know how well the soldered joints
>
> >will stand up to the vibration. Any ideas or comments?
>
>
>This question raises a good point. In "Experimenter" magazine, one of the
>popular articles follows aircraft construction and engine installs by a guy
>named Whittier, I believe (could have that name wrong, may be best if I do
>have it wrong). I don't know anything about Whittier, but he seems to be
>some kind of expert and he takes good photos of his work. However, in a
>couple issues back, when he is shown building up his cooling system
>fittings from copper tube fittings, he does not include a hose retention
>feature, such as a ring or barb. . His photos do not show any barb
>features being added and I cannot find mention of them in the text. This
>is a definite mistake in a system of heated and pressurized liquid such as
>an engine cooling system. I believe Rotax also has a recommendation to
>avoid household plumbing parts and also to always incorporate barb
>fittings. Simply clamping a hose to a smooth tube (whatever the
>material), does not ensure it will stay on when subjected to heating,
>pressurization, creep of the rubber in the hose, and loosening of the
>typical worm-drive hose clamp do to expansion/contraction cycles and
>vibration.
>
>Jim Gerken
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)inebraska.com> |
If you don't mind a Challenger pilot doing your graphics, e-mail Curt
Heggemeyer at curth(at)ncfcomm.com. He rents part of my office for his sign
business. His graphics are first-rate, and his prices very reasonable. He
does a lot of the graphics for the Challenger guys, and can do most anything
you can dream up.
J.D. Stewart
Internet Nebraska-Norfolk
http://www.inebraska.com
UltraFun AirSports
http://www.ultrafunairsports.com
Challenger Owners E-mail list and Website Administrator
http://challenger.inebraska.com
>
>
> I think this came up some time ago, but here it is
> again..................graphics. I've been thinking (??) that
> it'd be way cool to have either vinyl or mylar (which is best,
> anyway ??) stick-ons made up with a custom "Vamoose" graphic for
> the side of the fuselage. Also, as I said a couple of years ago
> - - - a dirt pawing, steam snorting "moose" on the tail. Today,
> I started to implement the idea, and got a - rude ! ! ! -
> awakening. Graphics lady I talked to on the phone was very
> pleasant, very interested, and a real pleasure to talk to. She
> knew immediately what I had in mind, and really seemed to like
> the idea.....................then popped the bubble by quoting a
> starting price for the design process only, of $800.00. I did
> say "starting price" and "design only" and I didn't stutter.
> Then I'd take her graphics to a sign shop for another bite.
> Called a sign shop she recommended, and they confirmed it all.
> Threw me for a loop, it did, and I imagine you all can g!
> uess that there'll be no $1,000.00+ name tags on Vamoose. Do
> any of you guys have any suggestions, or options ?? Any (cheap)
> artists in the crowd ?? Sticker-shocked Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> www.gogittum.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Morning Gang:
I use 1" radiator hose and fittings on my 912S.
Takes a trip or two to the local down home auto
parts store to pick and choose the correct hose
fittings to get the right angles I need for the
job. I have a couple short straight runs that I
use .058" 6061 tubing. I do not barb and have had
good service from them. I do insure I have a
healthy over bite and cinch the connection down
good with SS hose clamps.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Morning Gang:
Tube seal serves several functions in 4130 tubing:
1) Prevents internal rusting.
2) Seals pin holes and other small places that
water could enter tubing.
3) In most cases will tell you if you have a
crack.
All three are important to me. I have been
treating my fuselages from Ultrastar to MK III.
Periodically I will get the tell tale black streak
of leaking tube seal. Don't like to find those
places, but better than the alternative of not
finding it.
Got the new upper vertical stabilizer built with
cleco's. Primed the tail post and started popping
rivets. Got the bottom and rear tubes revetted
back on the tail post. Was working under two 500W
halogen lights (was cool down in the Mole Hole
yesterday). Noticed a streak of fresh tube seal.
Thought it had run out of a rivet hole, but on
closer examination discovered it was a crack in
the 4130 stub for the bottom vert stab tube. In
fact it was leaking a tiny bit of tube seal from
both sides of the tube.
I cleaned off the fresh primer and cleaned up the
painted surfaces back 3 or 4 inches from the
cracks. Took my piece over to my buddy's and bead
blasted the piece for TIG welding. Before the
evening was over discovered cracks on both sides
and top of the bottom tube stub. Also crack in
the right hand weld where the tail boom ring is
welded to the same stub. Dan welded up all the
cracks and two triangular gussets in the lower
intersection of the tailpost and stub.
Glad I found the cracks before I hit the road for
Monument Valley. Will be out of town until
Monday, so that cuts my prep time down to two
weeks and a couple days. Always happens like this
just before a big flight.
If I have everything I need to do the covering and
painting, I will be able to get it covered and
painted in about a week. Can only do so many
coating per day..........
I completely rebuilt the new vertical stabilizer
with a .058 leading edge. Also stuck a 12" .058
sleeve (cut 45 degrees both ends) inside the
midpoint where the horizontal brace attaches.
I lot of fair wear and tear got to the vertical
stab during the last 11 years. Also the period of
time I had displaced the leading edge probably
contributed to its failure. That's part of
"experimental" though. I don't know until I try
it.....
Times a wasting,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: copper plus brazing |
I do a lot of silver soldering (silver brazing) in my work, and it's very
strong - far stronger than regular solder................but it's not a
weld. I don't think I would trust it for structural components. I use it
mostly for joining tubing, but those are overlapping joints. They are
stronger than the *copper* tubing by far, hold steel tubing just fine, and
are vibration proof, but still................it's not a weld.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vincehallam(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: copper plus brazing
>
> Hi
> Is brazing a bad idea for main frame steel joints
> ,I might find it easier than welding
> Vnz
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
:-)
Enlighten me/us. I really don't know what you two are
alluding to.
Kevlar seats????
==========================
> I thought about using these kevlar things - but
> they cost too much and wouldn't fit in a single
seater.
Possum/Gang:
If I had one of those seats in my MK III I would
never get out of it. Probably have a hard time
staying awake on long flight too.
john h
=====
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar wants to roll |
My guess is: a wing incidence problem!
Either lower the angle of incidence on the right
increase the left or split the diffrence in the
middle. Presuming there is no warp in the wings and
nothing else is glaringly unusual in the rigging. when
he folds the wings go look at the hole position in the
tabs at the wing root. See if you can see a diffrence
from one side to the other.
Seems like an easy problem to figure out. The question
is if you have enough tab to drill another hole to
change the angles.
Let me know what you find out. Curious minds wanna
know.
===============================
When stalling, the right wing drops sharply. It seems
to want to go
into
a spin. The drop is controllable with the rudder, but
he says it just
"doesn't feel quite right" compared to the Ultrastar.
=====
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
that link aint linking. You got another one?
I would also want to know just how involved it is to
convert a BVW to aviation use, with one of those
drives?
======================================
>
> Jim, I had to provide them with a 582 serial no. to
> get a Rotax C gearbox.
> Also a Zanzorotta gearbox has been used with the BMW
> on a Liberty trike for over 100 hours. see
> http://community.webtv/rlwalden/libertyBMW
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/kolb-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
yeah, BigLar. I tried to get a nice decal made for the FireFlys. Had a
few on list say yes, BUTT then I went about same route as you did--with
about same results. Even if you/we get a fellow lister for the design,
then getting it made is another problem. Someone on this list(?) or
Fly-Ul has a shop that makes decals---I think. Gotta have the artwork
first. If it was stained glass i could do it, but it's kinda heavy!
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: copper plus brazing |
Yes, its very weak in comparison to welding.
Brazing is akin to gluing two or more pieces of metal,
where welding is akin to making the two into a one.
Never brazen anything stractural.
================================
> Hi
> Is brazing a bad idea for main frame steel joints
>
> ,I might find it easier than welding
>
> Vnz
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/kolb-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> Enlighten me/us. I really don't know what you two are
> alluding to.
> Kevlar seats???? Ron
Ron/Gang:
The url for the kevlar racing seats was in
Possum's email. I don't have it anymore, but
these seats are extremely expensive, like 2,500.00
more or less, depending on what little extra
goodies you want with them.
I fly with two old Ultrastar seats with Azusa seat
covers (these came with the Ultrastar kits back in
the "old" days, plus that ever important piece of
temperfoam that can be purchased from Wicks for 15
or 16 bucks. I might add I only use one small
piece in the bottom of each seat. Mine works just
fine, don't need any kevlar seats. :-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar wants to roll |
> Seems like an easy problem to figure out. The question
> is if you have enough tab to drill another hole to
> change the angles. Ron
Ron/Gang:
Unless it was a gross amount of difference, would
not be prudent to go drilling new holes in the
main spar attach points. Probably will only take
a tiny amount of adjustment to bring things back
into balance.
Someone has already mentioned adjusting the
universals on the aft attach points. This can be
done by rotating one or both 180 deg. It can also
be used with thin washers and a little grinding
here and there on the drag strut fitting.
Steven Green came up with a unique way of
adjusting differences in wing incidence. In fact,
he sent me one. I'll let him tell you how his
system works or you can go to the archives and do
a search for his post of a year or so ago.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: copper plus brazing |
Brazing 4130 is a bad idea. If you get the joint just a little too hot, the
joint will crack upon cooling. FAA doesn't permit structural brazing.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vincehallam(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: copper plus brazing
>
> Hi
> Is brazing a bad idea for main frame steel joints
> ,I might find it easier than welding
> Vnz
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FRED2319(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Mark 111 for sale |
I just completed a real through rebuild The plane looks brand new have flow
it about 4 hrs. it flies real nice. It is in an open hanger on a private
strip. It has 582, B box. starter. Injector. hyd. brakes. 3 blade CGS prop. I
am losing hanger. and I had a heart attack. and IM 70 yo; Write or call Fred
Brown 419 694 4315 in northern Ohio.
$14/000 will trade for most anything except wife's
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FRED2319(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Mark 111 for sale |
I just completed a real through rebuild The plane looks brand new have flow
it about 4 hrs. it flies real nice. It is in an open hanger on a private
strip. It has 582, B box. starter. Injector. hyd. brakes. 3 blade CGS prop. I
am losing hanger. and I had a heart attack. and IM 70 yo; Write or call Fred
Brown 419 694 4315 in northern Ohio.
$14/000 will trade for most anything except wife's
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
Big Lar wrote:
<< I've been thinking that it'd be way cool to have either vinyl or mylar
(which is best, anyway ??) stick-ons made up with a custom "Vamoose" graphic
for the side of the fuselage. ... $800.00. Do any of you guys have any
suggestions, or options ?? Sticker-shocked Lar.>>
Larry -
Try Kinko's. They do custom vinyl stick-on graphics, in sizes up to 27
inches by however long you want. Either single- or multi-color. Cost is
$10 per square foot for single color; $25 per sq ft for multi-colors.
What's required is you bring in your scanned picture on a floppy. They're
able to reproduce details down to lines as skinny as eighth-inch. All you
need is to find an artist to draw your flame-snortin' moose!
I did this for my planes's tail graphic, which is an old-fashioned fat-tired
bike and the words "Magic Bike." Size was approx 10x12 inches, one color,
and I paid $20 for two copies.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, Verner, Powerfin-72
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Rains <rr(at)htg.net> |
Finally scarred the FAA examiner enough to issue me a private pilot's
license and am looking forward to monument Valley. Am taking Will, am
picking up Dennis Kirby, (and more than likely big Lar the way things are
going with Vamoose) and flying my C-175. Might be nice to have a faster
plane to go after spares, beer, cigars, etc. Looking forward to meeting
folks I feel I've known for a long time.
Dave Rains
El Paso
republic of Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Trusty" <martintr(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi Dave:
Lived in El Paso for 6 years, taught school there. Lived on Edmonton Ave,
in the back yard of Andress High School. Are you familuar with this area?
> [Original Message]
> From: Dave Rains <rr(at)htg.net>
> To: Kolb List
> Date: 4/24/03 5:46:04 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Monument Valley
>
>
> Finally scarred the FAA examiner enough to issue me a private pilot's
> license and am looking forward to monument Valley. Am taking Will, am
> picking up Dennis Kirby, (and more than likely big Lar the way things are
> going with Vamoose) and flying my C-175. Might be nice to have a faster
> plane to go after spares, beer, cigars, etc. Looking forward to meeting
> folks I feel I've known for a long time.
> Dave Rains
> El Paso
> republic of Texas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ZepRep251(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:wing supports |
Ed,I installed flush mounted fold down rings in the floor, one ahead of the
tire and two behind about one foot apart.Hook a 1''wide racheting hold down
strap to the front ring thread it over the tire and thru the back ring and
hook the ratchet end to the last ring.I've hauled it from Ohio to Fla. and
back 4 times.It stays put. G.Aman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar wants to roll |
All depends where he has the originals drilled. If i
remember right the plans call for is 7/8 & 5/16
clearance for adequate strength. In other words the
spar will fail before the tab gets ripped apart by
loading. Just by eye balling aint measured yet, there
is enough meat to do that. So another hole if he has
enough tab is not a problem. In relation to the
universal joint to change the angle of incidence, I
don't see how it can be done with the factory supplied
U joint ??? (they are all pre drilled and pre made.
It may be different on the M3X) But I will do a search
in the archives as you got me curious.
=================================================
ces in wing incidence. In fact,
> he sent me one. I'll let him tell you how his
> system works or you can go to the archives and do
> a search for his post of a year or so ago.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
>
=====
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
You know you can put "Graphics" on the boom tube fairly cheap.
I know this kinda sounds stupid at first - But I used to have
"National Geographic" - in big black letters - on my
old Firestar's boom tube - just to keep the shrimp boats and
others from calling the FAA every time we landed on sand bars
and other questionable activities. Read that "Just to keep me
out of trouble" and it's probably illegal, immoral or something.
But you would be surprised how little things like that make people
go from being upset that your having so much fun - to being
really interested in what you are doing.
"Just stand right here next to the plane and we'll see if we can get
you in my next installment." I always got cameras strapped to my head
and in the plane anyway.
I don't try to pretend to be Adriel Heisey or anybody like that and
I'm pretty sure that National Geographic is mostly "Free Lance" anyway.
In fact I've got a series of shots of the State Patrol posing sitting
in my plane after I had run out of gas on the way back from Fla. and
had to land in this guys back yard. I'm sure they were
just hoping that their folks would see them in paper - if it got published
(it didn't - but??).
Heck who knows - I have been in the paper a few times - not the times
I would have wanted.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jcjbryant(at)cs.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 19 Msgs - 04/23/03 |
In a message dated 4/24/03 1:14:34 AM Mountain Daylight Time,
kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< Do any of you guys have any suggestions, or
options ?? Any (cheap) artists in the crowd ??
Sticker-shocked
Lar. >>
Larry if you can find a cartoon from a clip art catalog and choose a fancy
font from a sign shop's inventory, you should be able to get it done in the
$50 to $100 range. If not get in touch off line - jcjbryant(at)cs.com.
John - a lookie loo - Denver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Rains <rr(at)htg.net> |
Speedy is a real stand up guy, but his cousin, slowpoke Rodriguiz would probably
be more appropriate for big Lar's plane.
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Davis" <davistcs(at)eoni.com> |
I'm to the point where I have to get going on a BRS for my Firestar. A 750 canister
mounted ahead of the 503 is a standard setup I guess, but I recall reading
something on the list a while back about cooling problems with a top mounted
canister. Can anyone help on this? I couldn't find anything in the archives
on it. I would have liked to put a soft pack in the gap seal but I'm really
tired of building and just want to fly the thing this year. Terry
Davis, FS II for one, Still painting, Eastern Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS and cooling |
Hi Terry/Gang,
I think the cooling problems your referring to are with the water cooled
engines. Not sure why unless the radiator was between the engine and the
BRS. I have a canister mounted in front of my 503 powered Firestar and have
never even been close to having a cooling problem. I also had a Twinstar
with canister mounted in front of the 503 that didn't have a problem. BRS
makes a mount especially for the Firestar to fit in front of the engine. I
don't believe you will have any problems.
Later,
John Cooley
>
> I'm to the point where I have to get going on a BRS for my Firestar. A
750 canister mounted ahead of the 503 is a standard setup I guess, but I
recall reading something on the list a while back about cooling problems
with a top mounted canister. Can anyone help on this? I couldn't find
anything in the archives on it. I would have liked to put a soft pack in
the gap seal but I'm really tired of building and just want to fly the thing
this year. Terry Davis, FS II for one, Still painting, Eastern
Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: BRS and cooling |
200 hours on mine with the canister mounted in front. The only problem I had
was that the mount was designed to be used without the oil injection, hit the
mount. I modified the mount moving it forward with the help of BRS. I guess
mine was the first application with the oil injection, think they have fixed
the mount by now (mine is a 97 model)
No cooling problems at all. They also had to send me a longer cable for the
pull handle because I wanted mine mounted by the throttle. They did it at no
charge. Works great to rest my arm on.
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | firestar wants to roll |
Steven Green came up with a unique way of
adjusting differences in wing incidence. In fact,
he sent me one. I'll let him tell you how his
system works or you can go to the archives and do
a search for his post of a year or so ago.
Take care,
john h
when i first built i had a bit of a roll problem.... to solve it i took the universal
joint fitting that fits over the 1/2 inch bolt and had a friend with a
mig welder close off part of the 1/2 inch hole and i used a file and removed
some of the metal on the other side of the hole.... when i rebuilt i bought new
fittings and installed a trim tab.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ronnie wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EVO/AIR website update |
I have a picture of a ultrastar it has a silver boom tube and black wheel
pants "i think" the pilot is giving a thumbs up at the camera, it has a
canister chute of some kind mounted on the boom. does anyone know who this
might be? thanks ,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Rains <rr(at)htg.net> |
Heavens yes! The Northeast has grown nearly all the way to Chaparral NM. People
just as friendly as ever. Why would anyone leave?
Dave Rains.
-----Original Message-----
From: Martin Trusty [SMTP:martintr(at)earthlink.net]
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Monument Valley
Hi Dave:
Lived in El Paso for 6 years, taught school there. Lived on Edmonton Ave,
in the back yard of Andress High School. Are you familuar with this area?
> [Original Message]
> From: Dave Rains <rr(at)htg.net>
> To: Kolb List
> Date: 4/24/03 5:46:04 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Monument Valley
>
>
> Finally scarred the FAA examiner enough to issue me a private pilot's
> license and am looking forward to monument Valley. Am taking Will, am
> picking up Dennis Kirby, (and more than likely big Lar the way things are
> going with Vamoose) and flying my C-175. Might be nice to have a faster
> plane to go after spares, beer, cigars, etc. Looking forward to meeting
> folks I feel I've known for a long time.
> Dave Rains
> El Paso
> republic of Texas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Rotax 618 engine oil |
While attending Sun & Fun, and picking up some small iteams from Lockwood
Aviation, I spoke with Kerri (one of the most knowledgable when it comes to
Rotax). We touched on the subject of oil and he showed me their catalog
which states that Penzoil for air cooled engines is recommended for most all
Rotax 2 strokes EXCEPT FOR THE 618. It goes on to explain that they recommend
Penzoil Premium Outboard Motor Oil for the 618. petrolium base, not the
synthectic. Has been found to work out better in regards to the rave system.
Remember if you ever do change from one brade of oil to another, don't mix
the two. Weird things can happen.
Fly Safe
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim and Phyllis Hefner" <hefners_tucson(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley |
Dave, I have reservations in the campground the night of the 18th thru 20th, where
I plan to park my trailer, after unloading myFF at the tiedown area. If anyone
needs a place for sleeping bag gear, I've got lots of room and will have
electric hook-up with lighting... beats sleeping on the ground. I could bring
stuff if needed. Last year we ate all meals at the lodge, since there were only
3 of us, oneof which was my daughter. I'm looking forward to meeting lots of
new faces and having a great time!
Jim Hefner
Tucson, AZ
FF#022
-- Kolb-List message posted by: Dave Rains rr@htg.net
Don't know about local/tribal laws. Can't possibly be a dry reservation.
Will and I caught a ride from a local who clearly was getting more fuel
than his truck. Anyone have a count on aircraft yet? Is Siesta going to
make it (I mean Vamoose)? Who has reservations in the hotel and who is
camping? I'll bring the libations and perhaps some steaks. Got to get a
grip on who's bringing what.
Dave Rains
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley |
Reservations ?? When I called, I was told we didn't need reservations.
They were only necessary if we stayed in the hotel. ?????
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim and Phyllis Hefner" <hefners_tucson(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Monument Valley
>
> Dave, I have reservations in the campground the night of the 18th thru
20th, where I plan to park my trailer, after unloading myFF at the tiedown
area. If anyone needs a place for sleeping bag gear, I've got lots of room
and will have electric hook-up with lighting... beats sleeping on the
ground. I could bring stuff if needed. Last year we ate all meals at the
lodge, since there were only 3 of us, oneof which was my daughter. I'm
looking forward to meeting lots of new faces and having a great time!
> Jim Hefner
> Tucson, AZ
> FF#022
>
> -- Kolb-List message posted by: Dave Rains rr(at)htg.net
>
> Don't know about local/tribal laws. Can't possibly be a dry reservation.
> Will and I caught a ride from a local who clearly was getting more fuel
> than his truck. Anyone have a count on aircraft yet? Is Siesta going to
> make it (I mean Vamoose)? Who has reservations in the hotel and who is
> camping? I'll bring the libations and perhaps some steaks. Got to get a
> grip on who's bringing what.
> Dave Rains
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
This isn't flying-related, but since we all...or many of us, get a lot
of hoax/scam/chain letters msgs, I thought this URL would be useful, and
some fun.
http://hoaxbusters.ciac.org/HoaxBustersHome.html
Bob N.
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
Kolbers,
Weighed my Mk-3 today for the weight and balance sheet, she came in at a lean mean
475lbs. Not a lot of fat on her. Took a lot of photos, as soon as I can I'll
get em to the PhotoShare.
Denny Rowe
Mk-3 2si 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FIXERJONES(at)aol.com |
wow i want to hear how that 690l70 does? it looks like a really good setup
do not arcive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim and Phyllis Hefner" <hefners_tucson(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley |
Lar, I went on their website and made my own reservation for the campground. They
replied and mentioned I was approved for airstrip usage for those dates.Last
year there was an airstream convention that filled the campground the day after
I arrived... I made a reservation so I don't have to think about it further.
You'll probably be OK, but why take a chance?
Jim
-- Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" biglar(at)gogittum.com
Reservations ?? When I called, I was told we didn't need reservations.
They were only necessary if we stayed in the hotel. ?????
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley |
Yah, guess I'd better do the same then. Better to be a little bit safe,
than a whole lot sorry. Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim and Phyllis Hefner" <hefners_tucson(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Monument Valley
>
>
> Lar, I went on their website and made my own reservation for the
campground. They replied and mentioned I was approved for airstrip usage for
those dates.Last year there was an airstream convention that filled the
campground the day after I arrived... I made a reservation so I don't have
to think about it further. You'll probably be OK, but why take a chance?
>
>
> Jim
>
>
> -- Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne" biglar(at)gogittum.com
>
> Reservations ?? When I called, I was told we didn't need reservations.
> They were only necessary if we stayed in the hotel. ?????
> Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> www.gogittum.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Davis" <davistcs(at)eoni.com> |
| Subject: | More BRS Questions |
Thanks for all the responses on the overheating question. So much for my memory
(or lack thereof). Guess it doesn't happen with a 503. The question now
is where to put "the handle". I had thought to mount it over my left shoulder,
(short and out of the way) but after Tim mentioned putting it by the throttle
I thought that sounded alot more panic proof. How tight can the housing
be bent? Seems like if it had a tight curve it would be harder to pull, but I
guess if you had to pull it you would probably really give it a yank and never
notice the effort. Any ideas would be welcome. Terry Davis, FSII, Eastern
Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 4/24/03 8:07:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
martintr(at)earthlink.net writes:
> Hi Dave:
> Lived in El Paso for 6 years, taught school there. Lived on Edmonton Ave,
> in the back yard of Andress High School. Are you familuar with this area?
>
>
Hi Martintr....
I lived in El Paso too, for 3 years in 77-80 working on a plant for GM
there....I wonder how many others on the list may have spent extended time
there....I had my family but lived on the West side of Franklin Mountain.
Learned how to glide there...in Las Cruzes.
George Randolph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More BRS Questions |
Morning Terry/Gang,
I wanted my handle to be easy to get to and located in a place easy to find
if I was in a panic. It is mounted between the throttle lever and the front
corner of seat so it is right by my left leg while I'm seated. I mounted it
to the small diagonal brace that angles down toward the seat base with a "U"
shaped clamp. I didn't want it sticking way up in the air on the horizontal
tubing that makes the top of the side panel. Another plus is that it is
right next to the kill switch. It is recommended that you kill the engine
before deployment of the chute. I will send you a picture off list.
Later,
John Cooley
>
> Thanks for all the responses on the overheating question. So much for
my memory (or lack thereof). Guess it doesn't happen with a 503. The
question now is where to put "the handle". I had thought to mount it over
my left shoulder, (short and out of the way) but after Tim mentioned
putting it by the throttle I thought that sounded alot more panic proof.
How tight can the housing be bent? Seems like if it had a tight curve it
would be harder to pull, but I guess if you had to pull it you would
probably really give it a yank and never notice the effort. Any ideas would
be welcome. Terry Davis, FSII, Eastern Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | aileron counter balance set up |
Kolbers,
Can anyone tell me the accepted procedure for determining the balance point of
the ailerons on a Mk-3? Seems like the aileron tie rods should be disconnected
while determining the balance point.
I probably should have checked the archives on this, but I gotta leave the house
right now.
See Ya,
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thom & Judith Riddle" <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | 4-stroke engine for Firestar |
I am new to the Kolb-list and am very interested in the Firestar. I would prefer
a 4-stroke engine. Two questions: Has anyone installed a 4-stroke engine in
a Firestar? What are the maximum installed weight and hp for a Firestar. I asked
TNK but have not received an answer.
Thom in Buffalo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron counter balance set up |
Morning Denny,
The aileron torque tubes should be disconnected while balancing the
ailerons. You then slide the weighted rods in or out until the aileron is
balanced or inline with the wing. Don't remember or know if it matters, but
I think I would raise the tail so that the wing is at the angle of attack
that it would be in for normal flying to do the balancing.
Later,
John Cooley
>
> Kolbers,
> Can anyone tell me the accepted procedure for determining the balance
point of the ailerons on a Mk-3? Seems like the aileron tie rods should be
disconnected while determining the balance point.
> I probably should have checked the archives on this, but I gotta leave the
house right now.
> See Ya,
> Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin Trusty" <martintr(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi Dave & George
While in El Paso, I had an interesting job before having to leave for other
destinations. Worked the White Sands and Mc Gregor Range missile evaluation
teams. We sure left a lot of dead soldiers standing in the desert there
(expended Booster remains). My scarest fears came when I was alone and
found out I was being tracked by a mountain Lion (had several names). It is
amazing how fear can get you back into the safety of your vehicle.
Don't Archive:
> [Original Message]
> From: <GeoR38(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Date: 4/27/03 4:40:08 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: El Paso
>
>
> In a message dated 4/24/03 8:07:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> martintr(at)earthlink.net writes:
>
> > Hi Dave:
> > Lived in El Paso for 6 years, taught school there. Lived on Edmonton
Ave,
> > in the back yard of Andress High School. Are you familuar with this
area?
> >
> >
>
> Hi Martintr....
> I lived in El Paso too, for 3 years in 77-80 working on a plant for GM
> there....I wonder how many others on the list may have spent extended
time
> there....I had my family but lived on the West side of Franklin Mountain.
> Learned how to glide there...in Las Cruzes.
> George Randolph
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 4-stroke engine for Firestar |
Hi Thom,
Welcome to the Kolb list. Great bunch of folks are on this list. Kolb has
always recommended that the 52 hp Rotax 503 was the biggest engine to put on
the Firestar. I don't recall anyone on this list that has a four stroke on a
Firestar. Not sure what kind of four stokes are available that would be
within the 503 weight range. The HKS 60 hp four stroke would be a nice
engine to have from what I have seen. They are about equal to the 503
performance wise. I don't know what it weights, but I'm sure it's several
pounds heavier than a Rotax 503. Maybe someone else on the list can come
through for you.
Later,
John Cooley
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thom & Judith Riddle" <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: 4-stroke engine for Firestar
>
> I am new to the Kolb-list and am very interested in the Firestar. I would
prefer a 4-stroke engine. Two questions: Has anyone installed a 4-stroke
engine in a Firestar? What are the maximum installed weight and hp for a
Firestar. I asked TNK but have not received an answer.
>
> Thom in Buffalo
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 4-stroke engine for Firestar |
I belive that they are all a bit heavy. And, with the FS being a tail heavy
design (at least for the lighter pilots), this is an issue. The HKS is
adverised at 98 lbs which may be within 10lbs of a 503 but I am not sure,
Good luck with your research.
Kip
http://www.springeraviation.net/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thom & Judith Riddle" <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: 4-stroke engine for Firestar
>
> I am new to the Kolb-list and am very interested in the Firestar. I would
prefer a 4-stroke engine. Two questions: Has anyone installed a 4-stroke
engine in a Firestar? What are the maximum installed weight and hp for a
Firestar. I asked TNK but have not received an answer.
>
> Thom in Buffalo
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Mark-3/912 Progress report |
Since good 'ole Geo38 seems to be supporting the list almost single handed it's
about time some of the rest of us pitch in so here goes....
My FireFly is such a joy to fly and the weather has been so great that it's hard
to settle down and finish my Mk 3 but now I'm back on that track.
The final design of my wing gap for the Mk-3 has had me stalled for way too long.
The main problem is that the original design does not lend itself to a built-in
BRS softpack.
The first challenge was to install the platform where the chute will sit. Mine
is mounted at the middle of the forward side of the 1 x 1 cross-tube and supported
by an aluminum brace attached to the flap handle bracket. The rocket launch
tube is mounted on the back side of the cross-tube adjacent to the chute. Keeping
the chute close to the launch tube simplifies the design of the trap door
used to allow the rocket, canopy and static line to freely exit the airframe.
This arrangement uses up most of the space occupied by the framework of the original
design and requires an alternative support structure. My plan is to use
a permanent gap seal which stays in place when the wings are folded. One of the
list contributors has a great design, with photos, on his home site. I left
my printed copy at the hangar but will provide his name if anyone is interested.
If I could continue to resist the temptation to fly my FireFly instead of working
on the Mk-3 it could be done in a few days. What a great problem to have ;)
More Later,
Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL, FireFly SN 007, 147 Hrs, Mk-3/912 in the works.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark-3/912 Progress report |
Resistance is futile.
The windshield's coming off today.
http://www.weather.com/weather/local/USGA0097?x=16&whatprefs=&y=4
>If I could continue to resist the temptation to fly my FireFly instead of
>working on the Mk-3 it could be done in a few days. What a great problem
>to have ;)
>
>More Later,
>
>Duane the plane, Tallahassee, FL, FireFly SN 007, 147 Hrs, Mk-3/912 in the
>works.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
On vacation last year, I only went about 25 miles up Monument Valley, from Kayenta,
AZ., (I was running out of time) so didn't want to build a page on just that.
Sooooo...............last night, into the wee hours - just for you guys
- I made a page of my boat ride up the beginning of the Grand Canyon. I added
3 pics of Monument Valley at the end. I just now finished adding the links,
(ohhhh, my aching head - they keep changing the software) so, here's what you
guys who don't come on the Monument Valley trip will be missing. I'll do more
later on Canyon de Chelly, etc. Just click on the link below..............................
Fuzzy-eyed Lar.
http://www.webpictures.homestead.com/startofthegrandcanyon.html
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ronnie wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Grand Canyon |
they are sure purty pictures thanks
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Grand Canyon
>
> On vacation last year, I only went about 25 miles up Monument Valley, from
Kayenta, AZ., (I was running out of time) so didn't want to build a page on
just that. Sooooo...............last night, into the wee hours - just for
you guys - I made a page of my boat ride up the beginning of the Grand
Canyon. I added 3 pics of Monument Valley at the end. I just now finished
adding the links, (ohhhh, my aching head - they keep changing the software)
so, here's what you guys who don't come on the Monument Valley trip will be
missing. I'll do more later on Canyon de Chelly, etc. Just click on
the link below.............................. Fuzzy-eyed Lar.
>
>
http://www.webpictures.homestead.com/startofthegrandcanyon.html
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> www.gogittum.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ronnie wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Grand Canyon |
anyone know the redline "rpm" on a cuyuna ULII-02, thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Grand Canyon |
6500 rpms Ronnie....according to ZDE....some like to turn em 6700 which
Roger said is ok...but maybe a little tight.
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Grand Canyon |
35 hp at 6250 is what the factory says, it'll probably handle 6500 OK put
why push it.
Denny rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: ronnie wehba <rwehba(at)wtxs.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Grand Canyon
>
> anyone know the redline "rpm" on a cuyuna ULII-02, thanks
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron counter balance set up |
John,
Thanks a bunch!, thats pretty much what I figured. I am gonna machine a nice
round nose on em, and maybe drill a backside center hole to take a little
weight out, that should allow me to use pop rivets instead of my 8/32 bolts
to attach the weights.
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cooley <johnc(at)datasync.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: aileron counter balance set up
>
> Morning Denny,
>
> The aileron torque tubes should be disconnected while balancing the
> ailerons. You then slide the weighted rods in or out until the aileron is
> balanced or inline with the wing. Don't remember or know if it matters,
but
> I think I would raise the tail so that the wing is at the angle of attack
> that it would be in for normal flying to do the balancing.
>
> Later,
> John Cooley
>
>
> >
> > Kolbers,
> > Can anyone tell me the accepted procedure for determining the balance
> point of the ailerons on a Mk-3? Seems like the aileron tie rods should
be
> disconnected while determining the balance point.
> > I probably should have checked the archives on this, but I gotta leave
the
> house right now.
> > See Ya,
> > Denny
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Larry Gitt ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Larry Gitt
Subject: Kolbra First Flight
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/gittj@earthlink.net.04.27.2003/index.html
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Ronnie Wehba ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Ronnie Wehba
Subject: Ultrastar
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rwehba@wtxs.net.04.27.2003/index.html
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS and cooling |
<< I'm to the point where I have to get going on a BRS for my Firestar. I
recall reading something on the list a while back about cooling problems
with a top mounted canister. Can anyone help on this? >>
Terry, Kolb Friends -
If you are worried about cooling problems using a top-mounted canister, BRS
has an installation option for the Firestar that places the canister almost
entirely inside the fuselage cage. Attaches to the boom tube; fires
downward. Call BRS for details.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, in
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Lawton" <skyrider2(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 04/26/03 |
Kolbers,
After taking a hiatus from Ultralight flying for almost 10 years, I've
jumped back into it feet first.
I'm running an inverted 503 DCDI that I'm having some minor problems with.
Anytime it sits for a few hours or overnight, it seems that the fuel in the
lines are flooding the plugs. The fuel tanks are lower than the engine.
Each time I want to fly, I have to pull all four plugs and dry them out
before it will crank. If the engine is warm from a previous flight, no
problem. But when it's cold, it's really hard to start. I mean like 20 to
30 pulls of the cord to crank it.
Never had this problem on any of my previous aircraft with inverted 503's.
This is admittedly the first DCDI I've had any experience with though.
This weekend, I installed an inline fuel shutoff valve and after I flew, I
shut it off and let the engine run out of gas rather than just shutting it
off via the switch. We'll see how that works next time out.
It also seems to be running very cool. From what I remember from years ago,
we used to use 350 F as a max for CHT's and something like 1250 F for EGT's
on 503's. Am I correct on these temps? This one is running in the 250 to
300 CHT and 900 to 1000 for EGT.
I recently installed an intake silencer and re-jetted the carbs with the
included jets, purchased from Lockwood. Our airport is around 700' above
sea level and it was about 75 degrees on Sunday when I was flying.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated from those of you a bit more
"current" on maintenance and mechanics of the 503. My memory just "ain't
what it used to be".
Thanks in advance,
Doug Lawton
NE Georgia and Whitwell TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
I grew up on the west coast of British Columbia in the '40's & 50's, where
cougars were a real problem back then.............especially on Vancouver
Island. In that heavy rain forest and brush, the stalk-ee seldom knew they
were there, and there were quite a few attacks - especially on children.
I've had people try to tell me that cougars are mute. Sorry - I'm a 1st
hand witness as to how their scream will stand your hair straight up ! ! !
Interestingly, there's been a large surge in their population here in
Southern California, with several seen right in town in Palm Desert in the
last few years. Also a couple of attacks in the San Diego area a couple of
years ago. They're neat critters, but definitely not pussycats. Amazing,
how the animal rights people change their tune, when the cougar is in THEIR
backyard. Big Lar, eh ?? Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Rains" <rr(at)htg.net>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: El Paso
>
> Yes, I carry my sidearm (Colt Combat Elite .45) and a 45.70. Lions track
> people for fun. Never heard of one around here attacking a person, but
> occasionally we get a soldier who goes jogging in the dessert and comes
> back white as a ghost. Many laughs! The old rocket boosters are still
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS and cooling |
I've got mine that way. Think they told me - "no matter which way
you fire it, it will open behind the plane and come up
over the top."
http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/BRSsys.jpg
http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/Sideview.jpg
>
>
><< I'm to the point where I have to get going on a BRS for my Firestar. I
>recall reading something on the list a while back about cooling problems
>with a top mounted canister. Can anyone help on this? >>
>
>Terry, Kolb Friends -
>
>If you are worried about cooling problems using a top-mounted canister, BRS
>has an installation option for the Firestar that places the canister almost
>entirely inside the fuselage cage. Attaches to the boom tube; fires
>downward. Call BRS for details.
>
>Dennis Kirby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Who's Ultrastar? |
ronnie wehba asked:
<< I have a picture of a ultrastar it has a silver boom tube and black wheel
pants "i think" the pilot is giving a thumbs up at the camera, it has a
canister chute of some kind mounted on the boom. does anyone know who this
might be? >>
Ronnie -
It's KZ Zigatis. He's an EAA Tech Counselor in the St Louis area.
He sold that Ultrastar a couple of years ago. Flies an autogyro now.
Dennis Kirby
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Allman" <fisherallman(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Horz. Stab. Alignment |
Kolbers,
I'm installing adj. brackets for the leading edge of the horz. stab. on a
Mark III Extra, 912 UL.
I wanted to get an idea of the incidence with the old brackets so I blocked
up the tail and put a level to work. It became apparent that the right side
(passenger) has a greater angle of attack.
Scratching my head- I walked across the ramp and looked at a SS with a 582
and found just the opposite. The left side higher.
It appears they have trimmed the airplanes for roll with the horz. stab.
Is this normal for a KOLB?
Thanks in advance,
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Grand Canyon |
ronnie wehba wrote:
>
>
> anyone know the redline "rpm" on a cuyuna ULII-02, thanks
>
Red line is half way up the Grand Canyon wall some at places, but what
has Cuyuna got to do with it?
Set top rpm at bout 6300-6500 and ur good to go.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ronnie wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Who's Ultrastar? |
thanks do you happen to know what kind of brs that is?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
Subject: Kolb-List: Who's Ultrastar?
>
> ronnie wehba asked:
> << I have a picture of a ultrastar it has a silver boom tube and black
wheel
> pants "i think" the pilot is giving a thumbs up at the camera, it has a
> canister chute of some kind mounted on the boom. does anyone know who this
> might be? >>
>
> Ronnie -
> It's KZ Zigatis. He's an EAA Tech Counselor in the St Louis area.
> He sold that Ultrastar a couple of years ago. Flies an autogyro now.
>
> Dennis Kirby
> Cedar Crest, NM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ronnie wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Grand Canyon |
thanks guys, I know I am gonna enjoy this plane"ultrastar"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eugene Zimmerman" <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Grand Canyon
>
> ronnie wehba wrote:
> >
> >
> > anyone know the redline "rpm" on a cuyuna ULII-02, thanks
> >
>
> Red line is half way up the Grand Canyon wall some at places, but what
> has Cuyuna got to do with it?
>
>
> Set top rpm at bout 6300-6500 and ur good to go.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Horz. Stab. Alignment |
> It appears they have trimmed the airplanes for roll with the horz. stab.
>
> Is this normal for a KOLB?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Joe
Hi Joe/Gang:
I think what you have discovered are some of the
discrepancies we amateur Kolb builders build into
our airplanes. I have not checked mine lately,
but they may be out of sync with each other.
The left roll problem with Mark III's and X's is
probably caused by single pilot sitting off center
in the left seat. Put an equally heavy passenger
in the right seat and the roll problem will
probably go away.
To answer your question, I do not think the
incidence in Kolb aircraft are designed to
compensate for any adverse roll tendancies.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi all,
I bought a gravity feed hvlp paint gun on Saturday and it is really
great. This is a Central Pneumatic 43430-2VGA from Harbor Freight
($65).
I had been using a small touch-up gun to do individual pieces and even
started on the cage with it. That gun died on Saturday -- very
frustrating when you've done all the setup and a junk tool ruins a good
chunk of precious build time! But it was a blessing in disguise as I
was needing to decide what to do about finish painting and the larger
pieces. Quality and ease with this new gun are great as long as the
surface is relatively horizontal. Of course a little more care
required if pieces are verticle. Two other people had recommended this
gun to me, so I'm fairly confident it will last as long as I clean it
meticulously after use. BTW, I'm using Polyfiber/Polytone.
Moved from very grumpy Saturday to all smiles Sunday...
-Ben
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Allman" <fisherallman(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Horz. Stab. Alignment |
John and Gang,
Both of these planes were built by the old Kolb company as factory demos.
John, I think you have flown both of these planes years ago. The Mark III
bears your signature and the Slingshot is the prototype you flew at Sun and
Fun.
At any rate, I agree with you and I'm as surprised as you to see the
differences in incidence.
The Mark III flew roll neutral until I evened up the horz. stab. Now it
rolls to the right with a heavier pilot on the left. I haven't changed the
SS and it flys well.
Your reassurance that this is NOT the way to trim an airplane reaffirms my
own beliefs.
I'll start looking at other factors and see if I can find the problem. I
just wanted to make sure there wasn't something I was missing. I don't have
much experience trimming a "pusher" and thought there might be some unique
factors to consider.
Thanks again,
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Hauck
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Horz. Stab. Alignment
> It appears they have trimmed the airplanes for roll with the horz. stab.
>
> Is this normal for a KOLB?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Joe
Hi Joe/Gang:
I think what you have discovered are some of the
discrepancies we amateur Kolb builders build into
our airplanes. I have not checked mine lately,
but they may be out of sync with each other.
The left roll problem with Mark III's and X's is
probably caused by single pilot sitting off center
in the left seat. Put an equally heavy passenger
in the right seat and the roll problem will
probably go away.
To answer your question, I do not think the
incidence in Kolb aircraft are designed to
compensate for any adverse roll tendancies.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS and cooling |
Dennis, i have had my canister top mount on the firestar for over a year now
and my
temps have not changed at all and it is about 68 degrees to the root tube and about
5.5
inches back from the fan... if you want i can send you some pics. it may even give
you better
cooling as the air rushes around the back of the canister, who know.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM wrote:
>
> << I'm to the point where I have to get going on a BRS for my Firestar. I
> recall reading something on the list a while back about cooling problems
> with a top mounted canister. Can anyone help on this? >>
>
> Terry, Kolb Friends -
>
> If you are worried about cooling problems using a top-mounted canister, BRS
> has an installation option for the Firestar that places the canister almost
> entirely inside the fuselage cage. Attaches to the boom tube; fires
> downward. Call BRS for details.
>
> Dennis Kirby
> Mark-3, in
> Cedar Crest, NM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Horz. Stab. Alignment |
Not that I've ever heard of.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Kolbers,
>I'm installing adj. brackets for the leading edge of the horz. stab. on a
>Mark III Extra, 912 UL.
>
>I wanted to get an idea of the incidence with the old brackets so I blocked
>up the tail and put a level to work. It became apparent that the right side
>(passenger) has a greater angle of attack.
>
>Scratching my head- I walked across the ramp and looked at a SS with a 582
>and found just the opposite. The left side higher.
>
>It appears they have trimmed the airplanes for roll with the horz. stab.
>
>Is this normal for a KOLB?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Joe
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Armstrong" <cen33475(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Horz. Stab. Alignment |
>I wanted to get an idea of the incidence with the old brackets so I blocked
>up the tail and put a level to work. It became apparent that the right
side
>(passenger) has a greater angle of attack.
not avery big moment arm in the roll axis for the tail. lets say avarage of
2 feet or so. total lift of one side of the stab is maybe 50 pounds, so 100
ftpounds of moment available if you put 10 degrees of angle change on one
side of the tail. now compare that to the ailerons. each wing is carrying
around 350 pounds, and the ailerom can change the lift coeficient by 20%,so
thats 70 pounds at around 8 feet or 560 foot pounds or 5 times as much.
Guess thats why aircraft designers ussually use ailerons for roll control.
( now nobody come back and tell me how far off my guesses are... just wags)
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 04/26/03 |
Doug,
Sounds like you are a little on the rich side, pull your plugs and if they
are black and wet looking you may want to lean the main circuit a little.
You want a nice brownish tan color to your plugs.
The extra fuel from being to rich would settle around your plugs.
Denny Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: Doug Lawton <skyrider2(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 14 Msgs - 04/26/03
>
> Kolbers,
>
> After taking a hiatus from Ultralight flying for almost 10 years, I've
> jumped back into it feet first.
>
> I'm running an inverted 503 DCDI that I'm having some minor problems with.
> Anytime it sits for a few hours or overnight, it seems that the fuel in
the
> lines are flooding the plugs. The fuel tanks are lower than the engine.
> Each time I want to fly, I have to pull all four plugs and dry them out
> before it will crank. If the engine is warm from a previous flight, no
> problem. But when it's cold, it's really hard to start. I mean like 20
to
> 30 pulls of the cord to crank it.
>
> Never had this problem on any of my previous aircraft with inverted 503's.
> This is admittedly the first DCDI I've had any experience with though.
>
> This weekend, I installed an inline fuel shutoff valve and after I flew, I
> shut it off and let the engine run out of gas rather than just shutting it
> off via the switch. We'll see how that works next time out.
>
> It also seems to be running very cool. From what I remember from years
ago,
> we used to use 350 F as a max for CHT's and something like 1250 F for
EGT's
> on 503's. Am I correct on these temps? This one is running in the 250 to
> 300 CHT and 900 to 1000 for EGT.
>
> I recently installed an intake silencer and re-jetted the carbs with the
> included jets, purchased from Lockwood. Our airport is around 700' above
> sea level and it was about 75 degrees on Sunday when I was flying.
>
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated from those of you a bit more
> "current" on maintenance and mechanics of the 503. My memory just "ain't
> what it used to be".
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Doug Lawton
> NE Georgia and Whitwell TN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Horz. Stab. Alignment |
In a message dated 4/28/03 10:21:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
cen33475(at)centurytel.net writes:
>
> not avery big moment arm in the roll axis for the tail. lets say avarage
> of
> 2 feet or so. total lift of one side of the stab is maybe 50 pounds, so
> 100
> ftpounds of moment available if you put 10 degrees of angle change on one
> side of the tail. now compare that to the ailerons. each wing is carrying
> around 350 pounds, and the ailerom can change the lift coeficient by 20%,so
> thats 70 pounds at around 8 feet or 560 foot pounds or 5 times as much.
> Guess thats why aircraft designers ussually use ailerons for roll control.
> ( now nobody come back and tell me how far off my guesses are... just wags)
>
> Topher
>
> Keep up the good work Topher, even if we are too thick to follow it we love
the way you think...."if you can express it in numbers, you are at least
beginning to understand it".
George Randolph
Firestar driver from Akron,O
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
If any of you have sent in a photo and info on your plane to be included in
the "owners album" on the Kolb web site, They have just added about 7 more to
what was there before.
Fly Safe
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | rotax going up for sale |
| From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
04/29/2003 06:46:33 AM
I am getting serious about that BMW, as of today I am offering:
1997 Rotax 582 Liquid cooled, Dual Carb, Dual Ignition, Oil Injection,
Rotax oil injection tank with low oil sender and head-mounting bracket set,
Rotax exhaust with High Performance Coatings chrome finish, Rotax dual
radiator setup with thermostat, High Altitude Compensating Bing carbs
(HAC), fuel pump, extra carb jets and spark plugs, tool kit included, 170
hrs TT, top-end decarboned on regular intervals (2nd one 7 hours ago),
perfect condition, runs great, presently flying as a pusher on a Kolb, runs
great, I am going 4-stroke, NO GEARBOX , I need to keep the gearbox. All
listed above for first $2750 (that's about 1/2 of LEAF prices).
I have original shipping crate and will package, buyer pays actual
shipping costs.
Jim Gerken
gerken(at)us.ibm.com
507-253-2454 afternoon
507-753-2619 evenings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | al bumhoffer <abumhoffer(at)yahoo.com> |
I bought a used engine from a crashed 1995 FirestarII
this past weekend from a guy in Frankfort, New York.
He also has for sale a pair of stream lined struts, 1
good landing gear leg, a pair of larger tires, wheels
and brakes, one of which may be slightly bent, all the
tail feathers, 2-5 gal. gas tanks, and some
instruments. The wings are damaged but could be used
for parts. Contact him at rakickum(at)ntcnet.com His
name is Rocco.
Al Bumhoffer
Firestar II
Painting and Final Assembly
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KRISTINA L GIBFRIED <tk1991(at)swbell.net> |
I have decided to go with the Kaw 340 for my project, a Pop's props Zing. I recived
the motor, single 32 mm carb, dual CDI Ignition, and starter. Does anyone
have an idea for a starter solenoid, voltage regulator, and exhaust? I'm also
looking for a source for a redrive. Best Regards, Tim Gibfried
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FRED2319(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: [ Larry Gitt ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: list mnonument valley |
> Anyone have a count on aircraft yet?
> Dave Rains
Dave/Kolbers/Others:
If I can get the new vertical stabilizer finished
and the tail back on Miss P'fer, I will be there.
Right now, after a weeks delay because of cracks
discovered in the uppper tailpost, I am back on
track to get things finished and ready to go on 14
May.
Tentative plans are depart hauck's holler on or
about 14 May for John Williamson's airfield near
Arlington, TX. Fly his wing to Albuquerque, NM,
then on out to Monument Valley, Utah. After our
flyin concludes, will probably do some flying in
the Utah/Arizona/California/New Mexico/Texas area,
prior to returning home to pay bills at the end of
the month. Can not afford to go to Debtor's
Prison at the beginning of the flying season.
All I am bringing is my appetite and Miss P'fer.
I plan to pitch my tent and sleep with my
airplane, if that is the best option. Do not want
to get too far away from the sh_t house and
shower. Plan to do my meals in the Lodge, but
will have MRE's and the ability to make instant
coffee at my camp site.
Am really looking forward to the flight out, as
well as the opportunity to fly locally in the
Monument Valley, Grand Canyon, Lake Powell areas.
Got to remember to bring lots of film and take
lots of pictures. May have to cut a camera port
in the right door to stick the camera lense out
of. Seems clear Lexan distorts what my eye sees
compared to what comes back from the film
developer. Hope I have time to get all the little
stuff done before I depart, plus fly a little to
make sure all systems are go.
I got the newly welded and repaired tailpost shot
with white epoxy chromate primer yesterday.
Getting ready to reassemble the upper vertical
stabilizer, cover, dope, and finish paint. That
is going to take about 5 to 7 days to go through
all the finishing processes and allow the paint
solvents to bleed off between coats.
Going to try to keep dope and paint at a minimum
or I will have to get some auxilary wings to fly
the overweight tail section. :-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
>
> May have to cut a camera port
>in the right door to stick the camera lense out
>of. Seems clear Lexan distorts what my eye sees
>compared to what comes back from the film
>developer.
Why not order one more of those little 3" Plexiglass snap vents, take it
out to shoot, the rest of the time it will look like it belongs there...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | FAA web problems |
Kolbers,
I have tried over the course of the last 3 months to occasionally download ACs
from the FAA websight, each time I get a plug-in error and a lot of times my computer
locks up on me.
What the HECK am I doing wrong? Between this problem and my FSDO taking their
good old time getting around to scheduling my inspection, I'm getting a little
POed. :-I
Denny Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> Why not order one more of those little 3" Plexiglass snap vents, take it
> out to shoot, the rest of the time it will look like it belongs there...
>
> Richard Pike
Richard/Kolbers:
You are a smart man.
How'd you know I bought two additional pop vents
to install because I got hotter in the "green
house" after I used clear book binding tape to
seal up the entrance door hinge lines to help keep
out rain, primarily, and cold air. What I did not
know was how much cooling effect I was getting
during the warm months from the air leaks in the
hinge line.
I have two pop vents I can use. I'll have to do
some serious planning to cut the hole in the best
place to use the camera in as many angles as
possible. I think the 80-300mm lense will fit in
a three inch hole. Will have to check that out
also.
Thanks again for the suggestion! :-)
john h
PS: I have been working all day and finally got
the vertical stabilizer to the point to start
installing chaffing tape and prepping for fabric.
Ahhhhhhhhh........., I need to predrill the
internal horizontal brace for fabric rivets.
About forgot about that. I can understand better
the time involved in building. It is easy to
forget, after a short time, how planning and work
intensive building a homebuilt in the basement
is. I thought I would get the stabilizer covered
and doped today. Maybe tonight I can get the
fabric on it. 14 May will be here before I know
it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
I give up!
I can not seem to acquire the ACs over the net, no mater how I try to get them
I get a plug in error.
Can anybody send me AC 90-89a, 65-23a, and 20-27e?
Thanks,
Denny Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | NOT AGAIN!!! HVLP VS. PRESSURE POT |
Hello guys, i have been doing my research on HVLP systems and it
seems that graco, devilbiss are the leaders in the industry there may be
a few others but i did not want to spend 1800.00 on the top of the line,
anyway my question is how many of you have used the pressure pot system
or the capspray! it seems to me for only a couple hundred dollars more
that would be the way to go particularly since my kolb is already built
and i want to paint it a different color other than the juneau white and
with this system you can apply paint in any attitude! thats right you
can lay on your back and paint the underside of the wing, you can not do
this with most systems. is it worth the difference and did you get good
results with regular HVLP. also do you gents go with a fresh air system
or just a half mask. maybe by my first flyin this year i can get this
thing color coated!!!
thanks in advance,
Gary r. voigt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne F.Wilson" <wfwilson1(at)yahoo.ca> |
this is a test
Post your free ad now! http://personals.yahoo.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kawasaki 340 |
> I recived the motor, single 32 mm carb, dual CDI Ignition, and starter.
Does
> anyone have an idea for a starter solenoid, voltage regulator, and
exhaust?
Try a Briggs & Straton selonoid on riding mowers, many auto parts stores
carry them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NOT AGAIN!!! HVLP VS. PRESSURE POT |
All I wore was a mask. Maybe I am too old to be persuaded by those who fell
that everything is poisonous, but have been spraying lacquer, aircraft
dope, Stits and similar since I was 16, and am satisfied that unless you
are personally allergic to it, it won't hurt you. (Assuming you are not
doing it in a closed room!)
But if you are using anything with superglue in it - use a fresh air system.
Sorry, no knowledge on the pressure pot -
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> Hello guys, i have been doing my research on HVLP systems and it
>seems that graco, devilbiss are the leaders in the industry there may be
>a few others but i did not want to spend 1800.00 on the top of the line,
>anyway my question is how many of you have used the pressure pot system
>or the capspray! it seems to me for only a couple hundred dollars more
>that would be the way to go particularly since my kolb is already built
>and i want to paint it a different color other than the juneau white and
>with this system you can apply paint in any attitude! thats right you
>can lay on your back and paint the underside of the wing, you can not do
>this with most systems. is it worth the difference and did you get good
>results with regular HVLP. also do you gents go with a fresh air system
>or just a half mask. maybe by my first flyin this year i can get this
>thing color coated!!!
>
> thanks in advance,
> Gary r. voigt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Richmond <twoschmoops(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Scuff marks on lexan |
Any ideas on removing scuff marks from Lexan ??
Got some 2x4 s bounced off windshield, scuffed it some. All cleaners won't work.
thanks
John & Lynn Richmond
Mk III - 582
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Scuff marks on lexan |
If the plastic is scratched you will need to use a
micro mash kit. Its designed for Plexi but I see no
reason why it would'nt work on Lexan. Aircraft Spruce
sells it.
=====================
>
> Any ideas on removing scuff marks from Lexan ??
>
> Got some 2x4 s bounced off windshield, scuffed it
> some. All cleaners won't work.
>
> thanks
>
>
> John & Lynn Richmond
>
> Mk III - 582
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/kolb-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Scuff marks on lexan |
> If the plastic is scratched you will need to use a
> micro mash kit. Its designed for Plexi but I see no
> reason why it would'nt work on Lexan. Aircraft Spruce
> sells it. Ron
Ron/Gang:
If it is scuffed/scratched beyond polish and wax
repair, the only recourse is to live with it or
replace it.
Save your money. The "micro mesh kit" does not
work with Lexan. Lexan is much softer than
Plexiglass. However, it is much easier to work
with. Can be bent in most any direction without
heat. Can be bent 90 degrees in a sheet metal
brake without heat.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: rowedl(at)highstream.net
Subject: Re: Forms
Lar and John,
Thanks to both of you for your help. Somehow I managed to get the ACs you both
sent me written into My Documents, still not sure how, but they are there, now
I'm going to load up the printer with paper and burn some ink.
Thanks Again,
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Bourne
To: rowedl(at)highstream.net
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 8:49 PM
Subject: Forms
AC 20-27e wouldn't come up under the number. I just got a huge list of headings.
What is the description or title of that form ?? Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Scuff marks on lexan |
My windshield got sandblasted to where the center of the windshield looks
like frosted glass, from sitting in my driveway, so I used some "light
scratch remover" and after 3 applications with a soft cloth and a lot of
elbow grease so far, it looks like I may be able to save it. For a while,
at least. The A&P says it looks pretty good, and that the wax will take
care of the rest, but I'm going to go over it at least once more before I
wax it. I could call him to get the brand
name............................?? Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
>
> >
> >
> >Any ideas on removing scuff marks from Lexan ??
> >
> >Got some 2x4 s bounced off windshield, scuffed it some. All cleaners
won't work.
> >
> >thanks
> >
> >
> >John & Lynn Richmond
> >
> >Mk III - 582
> >
> >
> >---------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
04/30/2003 11:58:58 AM
Dave et al:
I plan on trailering the Mrk III out from southern California, arriving
Monument Valley late Sunday afternoon or evening, 5/18. Wife and 7-yr old
daughter coming along for the view. I'll be sleeping at the Lodge
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NOT AGAIN!!! HVLP VS. PRESSURE POT |
Gary, let us know what model and price you find good on these better
guns. Although it would be nice to be able to spray upside down or
whatever, there is generally greater potential for runs this way too
(speaking for myself anyway ;) ), so when easy, painting mostly
downward is nice.
-Ben
--- Gary robert voigt wrote:
>
>
> Hello guys, i have been doing my research on HVLP systems and it
> seems that graco, devilbiss are the leaders in the industry there may
> be
> a few others but i did not want to spend 1800.00 on the top of the
> line,
> anyway my question is how many of you have used the pressure pot
> system
> or the capspray! it seems to me for only a couple hundred dollars
> more
> that would be the way to go particularly since my kolb is already
> built
> and i want to paint it a different color other than the juneau white
> and
> with this system you can apply paint in any attitude! thats right you
> can lay on your back and paint the underside of the wing, you can not
> do
> this with most systems. is it worth the difference and did you get
> good
> results with regular HVLP. also do you gents go with a fresh air
> system
> or just a half mask. maybe by my first flyin this year i can get this
> thing color coated!!!
>
> thanks in advance,
> Gary r. voigt
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Raeburn <raeburn(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Seat belt material |
Does anyone know where I can buy material and fittings to make seatbelts for
my Mark III?
A few years ago someone was selling the material and fittings at
"Sun-N-Fun". but I have no access to the address of the company.
John Raeburn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Allman" <fisherallman(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | aileron and flap setup |
Kolbers,
I'm still trying to get the roll out of this Mark III Extra.
I could use some advice regarding the aileron and flapperon setup.
Currently the ailerons are slightly drooped in the neutral position. Is
this normal or should the profile be flat from the leading edge of the wing
to the trailing edge of the aileron?
Also, after a second look I found the SS to be relatively even across the
horz. stab. Must of been an optical confusion of some sort. Loose nut on
the level.
As always, thanks in advance,
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Test posting |
>
>this is a test
It worked Wayne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: copper plus brazing |
I thought the comment below was a great rational for not brazing structural
items on an airplane... But then I got to thinking. I know that there is
ordinary low strength braze and then there is braze with very high
structural strength. More strength than even 1430.
For example, how many of you use a table saw with carbide blades. As far I
know, all those carbide teeth are brazed on and you think nothing of
standing in line with the blade as you saw wood or even aluminum. The
centrifugal forces are trying to throw the sharp tips at you with a very
high force... But we never even give it a second thought.
Steve Wittman brazed up the tail feathers of his Tailwinds without a
problem. The Tailwind builders continue to build them in that manner.
Rickard Finch says that it is the copper than gets between the steel
particles that makes brazed 4130 joint crack on cooling. Yet, bicycle frames
are routinely brazed together.
If you pick your brazing rod so it has no copper, you might be amazed at the
strength. I have better luck brazing band saw blades with a scarfed overlap
joint than a welded butt joint. Remember the joint has to be designed
correctly for the process and that brazing is not a good gap filler.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
Actively supporting Aeroncas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <rwpike(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: copper plus brazing
>
> Think in terms of removing the AN bolts from your Kolb and replacing them
> with brass ones from Lowes - scary huh? You would -as it were- recoil in
> horror. Brazing fits into the same category. Brazing is absolutely,
> positively unacceptable for any structural anything in aircraft. OK for
> secondary, non load bearing structures like cup holders, gps mounts,
relief
> tubes, etc.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>
> >
> >Hi
> > Is brazing a bad idea for main frame steel joints
> > ,I might find it easier than welding
> > Vnz
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron and flap setup |
>
>
>Kolbers,
>
>I'm still trying to get the roll out of this Mark III Extra.
>
>I could use some advice regarding the aileron and flapperon setup.
>
>Currently the ailerons are slightly drooped in the neutral position. Is
>this normal or should the profile be flat from the leading edge of the wing
>to the trailing edge of the aileron?
>
>As always, thanks in advance,
>
>Joe
Drooping the ailerons moves the center of pressure on the wing rearward,
making the airplane effectively nose heavier.
Reflexing the ailerons upward moves the center of pressure toward the
leading edge, making the airplane more tail heavy.
Adjust it a bit and see how it suits you, it's an interesting exercise.
I get my roll out with an adjustable trim tab on the right aileron,
readjusted for solo or dual.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick & Martha Neilsen <neilsenrm(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | aileron and flap setup |
How bad is the roll? You can take a small amount of roll out by adjusting
the flaps (try this first) but if it is real bad you may want to raise or
lower the angle of attack of one wing. If you have to adjust the wing be
VERY careful. You don't want to weaken the critical wing connections. On my
plane I took a rat tail file and elongated the front hole on the wing were
the wing attaches to the fuselage. I then drilled three holes in some steel
bar stock the size on the wing pin connection. I then put the center hole of
the bar stock over the elongated hole and bolts thru the other holes. It
will be a trial and error process were you elongate the hole more and
replace with a new bar stock but you can trim you plane to fly hands off. I
hope I have described this clearly. But again be very careful you don't
weaken the wing connection.
As for the drooping of the ailerons there should be a slight droop so that
they will ride up even with the bottom of the wing in flight. This will be a
starting point and you may want to play with this as you are trimming your
airplane.
My $.02 worth.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIII
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Joe Allman
Subject: Kolb-List: aileron and flap setup
Kolbers,
I'm still trying to get the roll out of this Mark III Extra.
I could use some advice regarding the aileron and flapperon setup.
Currently the ailerons are slightly drooped in the neutral position. Is
this normal or should the profile be flat from the leading edge of the wing
to the trailing edge of the aileron?
Also, after a second look I found the SS to be relatively even across the
horz. stab. Must of been an optical confusion of some sort. Loose nut on
the level.
As always, thanks in advance,
Joe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat belt material |
>
>Does anyone know where I can buy material and fittings to make seatbelts for
>my Mark III?
>
>A few years ago someone was selling the material and fittings at
>"Sun-N-Fun". but I have no access to the address of the company.
>
>John Raeburn
There is a GI Joe Army Surplus store in the next town over that sells that
stuff (I think)
If you have not found a source by Monday night, let me know, I'm going that
way Tuesday and can get you some.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat belt material |
> Does anyone know where I can buy material and fittings to make seatbelts for
> my Mark III?
> John Raeburn
John/Gang:
Recommend you do a Google search for
"parachute+hardware+equipment", or
"sky+diving+repair+hardware+material". You will
come up with a supplier for hardware and webbing.
That is how I got my for Brother Jim to sew up for
my MK III.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: copper plus brazing |
> Yet, bicycle frames
> are routinely brazed together.
> Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Cy/Gang:
Correct me if I am wrong, but most bicycle frames
use a tube and socket type joint similar to
sweating a copper pipe joint. Nothing like a TIG
welded 4130 tubing joint.
Some tiny accessories are silver soldered on bike
frames, e.g., cable end fittings, cable guides,
etc.
I'll stick to TIG welding my airplane stuff and
feel a little bit more comfortable.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kuffel <kuffel(at)cyberport.net> |
| Subject: | Monument Valley & Essential Fluids |
Dave et al:
Will be flying down to MV on Sunday the 18th in our homebuild
taildragger. Wife Betty and I will be staying at the Lodge but plan to
spend a lot of time at the airstrip/camp ground just relaxing and hangar
flying.
Called Gouldings about alcohol laws. None available for sale but it is
ok to bring our own. Should I bring one, two or three cases of beer?
Tom Kuffel
Whitefish, MT
Building Original FireStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley & Essential Fluids |
> Called Gouldings about alcohol laws. None available for sale but it is
> ok to bring our own. Should I bring one, two or three cases of beer?
>
> Tom Kuffel
Tom/Gang:
Now if I was still the beer drinker I was 25 years
ago, I would say, "Yes, three cases would be OK
for me. That will last me about three days."
However, my drink of choice these days is Diet
Pepsi. Big Lar is on the same "wagon" I am, so
maybe if I am nice to him, he will bring some Diet
Pepsi for his ole buddy from Abalama.
Got the first coat of Polybrush, reinforcing tape
pop riveted to the horizontal brace, and (after I
rest a spell) will go back down stairs and see if
it is not too late tonight to stick the trim tapes
on the vertical stabilizer. Figure five more days
until I finish painting. That'll be about
Monday. That leaves me another day to reinstall
the tail section and a week to test fly and do the
necessary maintenance to get me out to Utah,
probably California and parts SW. Probably come
back through El Paso and then on to San Antonio on
the way back to Alabama. This whole flight is
going to be "played by ear" all the way.
Looking forward to seeing Tom Kuffel again. I
missed meeting his wife when I stayed with Tom
overnight at Whitefish, Montana. What a beautiful
area of our great country. Wish I could keep all
those beautiful places with me that I fly over and
through. Guess it makes it even better to go back
and visit those same places again. Some I get to
do in the Mark III and pulling the 5th wheel.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Seat belt material |
Try JC Whitney.
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: John Raeburn <raeburn(at)snowhill.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Seat belt material
>
> Does anyone know where I can buy material and fittings to make seatbelts
for
> my Mark III?
>
> A few years ago someone was selling the material and fittings at
> "Sun-N-Fun". but I have no access to the address of the company.
>
> John Raeburn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
Am really looking forward to the flight out, as
well as the opportunity to fly locally in the
Monument Valley, Grand Canyon, Lake Powell areas.
Got to remember to bring lots of film and take
lots of pictures.
John h
john
a while back you mentioned a bit about the high pointy mtn tops.... well this
link will show you 3 photos of the capitol reef area that Erich Weaver and myself
flew over last fall
the photos combined are about 1 meg. and a hole in the plexeglass would help resolution.
Capitol reef is north of monument valley and Lake powell. Install
new plugs and keep the water out of the gas.
http://www.brigham.net/~byoung/southxc.html
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> It's handy because every time you make a small
> mod, you can just squirt that area....and the spruce green makes a
> very passable look-alike for zinc chromate. Works for me...
> -BB
Bob/Gang:
I have a spray can of zinc chromate in the "mole
hole". Used some the other day. Think it came
from Aircraft Spruce, or it may have come from Jim
and Dondi Miller. Can not remember.
For rust and corrosion protection, zinc chromate
is hands down over spray paint with no primer
under it. I have used red spray paint for small
stuff when I get in a hurry changing or repairing
an item. However, most will eventually rust,
especially the throttle.
To do it right, according to the "hauck's holler
book of standards", one should use a good two part
epoxy chromate primer. If prepped and applied
correctly, it is hard to beat. Randolph green, in
my opinion, is the most durable of any I have
used.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Mk-3 Rudder stops? |
Kolbers,
I see from info I have that the Airworthiness inspector wants to see positive control
stops with no control interference.
This is no problem on my elevator and ailerons, but my rudder travels all the way
to the elevators both right and left.
How did you all limit your rudder travel to keep from interfering with the elevators?
Denny Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mk-3 Rudder stops? |
Denny, on my website, Building Vamoose/Wingtip Strobes...........right at
the bottom of the page, to the right of the pic of the red tail strobe, is a
pic of the rear of the tail boom. Right behind the rudder cable retention
bolt is a stub with a little white rubber boot on it, that limits rudder
travel. It came with the kit, and is like a little "saddle" that rivets on
the rudder tube, and has 2 little stubs that contact the rudder horn at full
deflection. I put the rubber boots on to protect the
paint...................tho' the way Vamoose is beat up now, before it's
ever flown, even, I don't know why I bothered. Hope this helps.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <rowedl(at)highstream.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Mk-3 Rudder stops?
>
> Kolbers,
> I see from info I have that the Airworthiness inspector wants to see
positive control stops with no control interference.
> This is no problem on my elevator and ailerons, but my rudder travels all
the way to the elevators both right and left.
> How did you all limit your rudder travel to keep from interfering with the
elevators?
> Denny Rowe
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mk-3 Rudder stops? |
>
>Kolbers,
>I see from info I have that the Airworthiness inspector wants to see
>positive control stops with no control interference.
>This is no problem on my elevator and ailerons, but my rudder travels all
>the way to the elevators both right and left.
>How did you all limit your rudder travel to keep from interfering with the
>elevators?
>Denny Rowe
Since the tail is folded and I cant get in to see it - there is a short
length of 1/4" steel tubing extending out at 90 degrees from the sides of
the vertical tail post at the rudder control horn, so when you pull on the
horn with the cables, the tubing stops it. If you don't have such as that,
weld a short length of 1/4" tubing to a split piece of larger tubing and
rivet it on.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Scuff marks on lexan |
Just for the heck of it, I did call him, the product is "Novus," and is sold
by Aircraft Spruce. It's on page 310 of their '02/'03 catalog. I used the
finest grit - it didn't even touch the scratches, but did a good job on the
'frosting'. GoGittum Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Scuff marks on lexan
>
> My windshield got sandblasted to where the center of the windshield looks
> like frosted glass, from sitting in my driveway, so I used some "light
> scratch remover" and after 3 applications with a soft cloth and a lot of
> elbow grease so far, it looks like I may be able to save it. For a while,
> at least. The A&P says it looks pretty good, and that the wax will take
> care of the rest, but I'm going to go over it at least once more before I
> wax it. I could call him to get the brand
> name............................?? Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> www.gogittum.com
> >
> > >
> > >
> > >Any ideas on removing scuff marks from Lexan ??
> > >
> > >Got some 2x4 s bounced off windshield, scuffed it some. All cleaners
> won't work.
> > >
> > >thanks
> > >
> > >
> > >John & Lynn Richmond
> > >
> > >Mk III - 582
> > >
> > >
> > >---------------------------------
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Kolbers:
Here are some scans of my rudder stop. Just
happened to have it hanging on a hook to dry after
shooting it with white Polyfiber two part epoxy
primer:
http://home.sw.rr.com/jhauck/Miss%20P'fer/Image-01.JPG
http://home.sw.rr.com/jhauck/Miss%20P'fer/Image-02.JPG
http://home.sw.rr.com/jhauck/Miss%20P'fer/Image-03.JPG
http://home.sw.rr.com/jhauck/Miss%20P'fer/Image-04.JPG
Since mine did not do what I needed it to do, I
tapped the 1/4" stubs with an 10/32 tap and
installed two stainless dome top screws to get the
adjustment I wanted and needed.
Amazing machines. I simply laid the rudder stop
on the scanner and presto, I had a file to send to
my index page.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron and flap setup |
I set mine up where they are flat with the bootom of
the wing. If they droop you have extra camber and more
lift & Drag, and also less top speed. Try going to
neutral where they both are flat on the bottom (per
the plans). that could solve the roll, if that is how
you had it when its rolling. One of them could just be
a bit more effective than the other, causing a banking
moment.
==============================
> Kolbers,
>
> I'm still trying to get the roll out of this Mark
> III Extra.
>
> I could use some advice regarding the aileron and
> flapperon setup.
>
> Currently the ailerons are slightly drooped in the
> neutral position. Is
> this normal or should the profile be flat from the
> leading edge of the wing
> to the trailing edge of the aileron?
>
> Also, after a second look I found the SS to be
> relatively even across the
> horz. stab. Must of been an optical confusion of
> some sort. Loose nut on
> the level.
>
> As always, thanks in advance,
>
> Joe
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/kolb-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
Group,
Anyone have any info as to when or if there is going to be a Light
Blue Angels Flyin , Memorial Day Weekend?
Ed in Houston
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
The 2 new pages...................Canyon de Chelly & Grand Canyon are linked to
my main site now, under "Travelling." Other pages listed there aren't built
yet, so there's no links yet. It looks like I'm finally back in gear, so stay
tuned............................. Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Mk-3 rudder stops? The continuing saga |
Thanks to Lar,Jack, Richard,and John for the replies to my query.
Looks like something I can still add in.
Was greeted as I came in the door from work this morning by a call from the gent
who will be conducting my airworthiness inspection, got a tentative date of
5-23 at 10:00 AM for my inspection.
In the course of our conversation I asked him if he felt the rudder stop would
be a necessary thing, and he said no, as he didn't feel I would ever reach full
rudder deflection in flight, he felt the stop would be more for paint protection
while tied down in high wind and that he would leave it to my discretion
weather to install the stops or not.
What do you all say? Would you or wouldn't you?
Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Victor 1+ - First Short Cross Country |
>
>Jack,
>Do you attribute the difference in speed to a difference in HP or less
>efficient or mismatched prop?
>jerb
>
>snip....
>>Ran some numbers to see how the Victor 1+ compared with the Rotax 447 over
>>this same flight path. I had good data for nine flights with the Rotax
>>447. The average fuel burn was 5.7 gallons (3.1 gph). Yesterday, the
>>Victor 1+ burned 4.7 gallons (2.1 gph). In all fairness to the Rotax 447,
>>the average flight ground speed was 58 mph and yesterday it was 48 mph.
>>
Jerb,
One of the nice things about an IVO is that one does not have to have a protractor
or read a pitch setting for propeller adjustment. But the bad thing is one
does not know the actual propeller pitch. And I have not been keeping good
information about propeller settings so I can not compare from this propeller
to the propeller used on the Rotax 447. But I have measured the current propeller
tip setting and it is 9 degrees. In previous flights, usually test flights
at pattern altitude, it gave 50 and 55 mphi at engine speeds of 4,500 and
5,000 rpm. On this flight I was getting 50 mphi at 2,000 to 2500 feet agl at
5,000 rpm.
At 100% propeller efficiency and set at 9 degrees, the tip would advance at 56.5
and 62.8 mph at 50 and 55 mphi. This would give a FireFly and propeller system
efficiency of 88%. On the flight to Painton at altitude, the cruise speed
was 50 mphi at 5,000 rpm, and this computes out to a propeller and system efficiency
of 80%.
In their data, Simonini used a 162 cm (~64 inch) diameter propeller with a 114
cm (~45 inch) lead or a pitch of 12.6 degrees with the same reduction unit. Using
their lead/pitch and computing tip advance speed, the number would come out
to be 78.8 mph. Assuming my Painton flight propeller and system efficiency
of 80%, one could expect a cruise speed of 63.5 mph at 5,000 engine rpm.
Why am I running a 72 inch propeller? I called IVO to order a shorter propeller
blades. I like to use their used/reconditioned blades to save a few dollars.
The only blades they had were the 72 inch blades and they were red. They explained
that I could cut them. I have put them on and they look nice. But it
appears to me that outer section tip drag is eating up too much torque, and
I must cut them.
Currently I am working on adding fairings to the struts and adding a little boat
tail to the rear of the fuselage. I want to see how much these things will
increase FireFly four gallon endurance and speed at 5,000 rpm. When that is done,
I will be cutting the propeller.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: copper plus brazing |
Thanks for the reply. Sometimes it is good to make us dig out the books and
see if we really know what we think we know...
My copy of AC43-13 dated 1968 paragraph 43 says "Brazing may be used for
repairs to primary aircraft structures only if brazing was originally
approved for the particular application. Brazing is not approved for repair
of welds in steel structures due to lower strength of the brazed joint as
compared to welded joints Brazing may be used in the repair of secondary
structures." It goes on to discuss copper brazing and the potential for
cracks and concludes "...copper brazing in any other than appropriately
controlled conditions is not recommended."
Steve Wittman was very knowledgeable about many things. If only he had read
the Stits manual...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>I thought the comment below was a great rational for not brazing structural
>items on an airplane... But then I got to thinking. I know that there is
>ordinary low strength braze and then there is braze with very high
>structural strength. More strength than even 1430.
>
>For example, how many of you use a table saw with carbide blades. As far I
>know, all those carbide teeth are brazed on and you think nothing of
>standing in line with the blade as you saw wood or even aluminum. The
>centrifugal forces are trying to throw the sharp tips at you with a very
>high force... But we never even give it a second thought.
>
>Steve Wittman brazed up the tail feathers of his Tailwinds without a
>problem. The Tailwind builders continue to build them in that manner.
>
>Rickard Finch says that it is the copper than gets between the steel
>particles that makes brazed 4130 joint crack on cooling. Yet, bicycle frames
>are routinely brazed together.
>
>If you pick your brazing rod so it has no copper, you might be amazed at the
>strength. I have better luck brazing band saw blades with a scarfed overlap
>joint than a welded butt joint. Remember the joint has to be designed
>correctly for the process and that brazing is not a good gap filler.
>
>Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
>Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
>www.bellanca-championclub.com
>Actively supporting Aeroncas
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Richard Pike" <rwpike(at)charter.net>
>To:
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: copper plus brazing
>
>
> >
> > Think in terms of removing the AN bolts from your Kolb and replacing them
> > with brass ones from Lowes - scary huh? You would -as it were- recoil in
> > horror. Brazing fits into the same category. Brazing is absolutely,
> > positively unacceptable for any structural anything in aircraft. OK for
> > secondary, non load bearing structures like cup holders, gps mounts,
>relief
> > tubes, etc.
> >
> > Richard Pike
> > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Hi
> > > Is brazing a bad idea for main frame steel joints
> > > ,I might find it easier than welding
> > > Vnz
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mk-3 rudder stops? The continuing saga |
I think he is all wet, but I can't find the FAA resources to back it up.
Somewhere I remember reading an article from a respected "name" in the
aircraft industry (I think it was Molt Taylor, but not sure) who discussed
the requirement to "overload" your control system to way above what it
would normally take without the controls deflecting beyond a certain point.
He is absolutely correct.
My experience: back in the mid 90's, I was doing touch and goes in my J-6
(taildragger) and the left main wheel brake locked up during the takeoff
portion. As the airplane started to come around to the left, (at about 45
mph) I was on the right rudder so hard that during the subsequent rebuild I
discovered that I had twisted the rudder pedal mechanism (dual setup) about
30 degrees out of line by standing on it so hard. Now visualize what that
would have done without rudder stops - the rudder would have been into the
side of the elevator and I would have jammed the elevator solid at where
ever it was at when things began to get exciting.
That is why you need a rudder stop - if things get real exciting during a
crosswind takeoff or landing, you will generate enough adrenaline in .2
seconds to nail that rudder right through the end corner of your elevator
and then you will get to enjoy even more adrenaline...
Put the stops on.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Thanks to Lar,Jack, Richard,and John for the replies to my query.
>Looks like something I can still add in.
>Was greeted as I came in the door from work this morning by a call from
>the gent who will be conducting my airworthiness inspection, got a
>tentative date of 5-23 at 10:00 AM for my inspection.
>In the course of our conversation I asked him if he felt the rudder stop
>would be a necessary thing, and he said no, as he didn't feel I would ever
>reach full rudder deflection in flight, he felt the stop would be more for
>paint protection while tied down in high wind and that he would leave it
>to my discretion weather to install the stops or not.
>What do you all say? Would you or wouldn't you?
>Denny
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: copper plus brazing |
> Steve Wittman was very knowledgeable about many things. If only he had read
> the Stits manual...
>
> Richard Pike
Richard/Gang:
Amen!
It is the one little mistake that will get us.
The one little mistake always happens when we
least expect it.
Fly the airplane until you finish crashing.
Never give up. There is a chance you may be able
to save yourself (first) and the airplane
(second).
BTW: Heres an 8 Sep 02, version of AC43.13-1B:
http://av-info.faa.gov/dst/43-13/
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mk-3 rudder stops? The continuing saga |
In my M3X rudder travel is limited by the horn and it
does not make contact with the elevators but comes
real close. I will install a little tab to keep some
assured clearence. In a stall or some other slow
low-load flight situations you may easily be able to
make contact between the surfaces. I would strongly
suggest that you do make sure that there is never
contact between those surfaces at any flight/ground
movements.
=========================
--- rowedl(at)highstream.net wrote:
>
>
> Thanks to Lar,Jack, Richard,and John for the replies
> to my query.
> Looks like something I can still add in.
> Was greeted as I came in the door from work this
> morning by a call from the gent who will be
> conducting my airworthiness inspection, got a
> tentative date of 5-23 at 10:00 AM for my
> inspection.
> In the course of our conversation I asked him if he
> felt the rudder stop would be a necessary thing, and
> he said no, as he didn't feel I would ever reach
> full rudder deflection in flight, he felt the stop
> would be more for paint protection while tied down
> in high wind and that he would leave it to my
> discretion weather to install the stops or not.
> What do you all say? Would you or wouldn't you?
> Denny
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm
> Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/kolb-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
We (the Black Mesa Flyers) are having a fly-in
up here in Paulden (AZ) on the 17th and plan to
leave for MV on Sunday the 18th. Is anyone
planning to come to our fly-in? I have room to
bring extra "stuff" to MV (chairs, etc.), any
ideas on what would be good for the group (10
cases of Sam Adams is NOT an acceptable answer).
> AzDave
AZDave/Gang:
Don't know about the flyin. How far is it as the
crow flies from Gouldings to Paulden? There's a
buncha big ole hard pointy mountains between the
two locations. Bet it is purty though.
Yes, please bring extra chairs. All I will have
with me, if I don't forget it, is a scrawny little
three legged folding camp stool. A nice folding
camp chair would be really nice.
Also will need a couple 5 gal gas cans to refuel,
if we can not taxi to the gas pump at Gouldings.
john h
BTW: Trim tape is on the vertical stabilizer. A
couple brush coats of Polybrush on the trim tapes
and I am ready to shoot a couple coats on the
whole thing. Might still get that Polyspray on
there tonight. If not, will get it first thing in
the morning. Covering job going well, so
far......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kuffel <kuffel(at)cyberport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley & Essential Fluids |
John, Lar, et al,
<<>>
Sorry, wasn't clear. Meant one, two or three cases per day.
<>
Had already planned to bring some Diet (ugh) Pepsi for Big Lar. Will
double the order to include you. Anyone for regular 7-Up? Suspect it
is better to have our own supply rather than depend on the store being
near, open, etc.
Tom Kuffel
Whitefish, MT
Building Original FireStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johnjung(at)compusenior.com" <johnjung(at)compusenior.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Victor 1+ - First Short Cross Country |
Jack and Group,
I would like to suggest that the speed difference is too much to make a
decent comparison. I think that 2.1 gph should be achiveable with a 447.
A few years ago I flew 60 miles at 45 mph with my 503 powered Firestar
and got 2.25 gph. If a 503 can get that low at almost the same speed,
then a 447 should be able to. I don't know if FireFly's need more fuel
than Firestars, though.
John Jung
Jack Hart wrote:
Ran some numbers to see how the Victor 1+ compared with the Rotax 447 over this
same flight path. I had good data for nine flights with the Rotax 447. The
average fuel burn was 5.7 gallons (3.1 gph). Yesterday, the Victor 1+ burned
4.7 gallons (2.1 gph). In all fairness to the Rotax 447, the average flight ground
speed was 58 mph and yesterday it was 48 mph.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mk-3 rudder stops? The continuing saga |
Thanks Richard, You convinced me.
I'll definitly put the stops on. Now I am wondering why my kit didn't have
them back in 92.
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mk-3 rudder stops? The continuing saga
>
> I think he is all wet, but I can't find the FAA resources to back it up.
>
> Somewhere I remember reading an article from a respected "name" in the
> aircraft industry (I think it was Molt Taylor, but not sure) who discussed
> the requirement to "overload" your control system to way above what it
> would normally take without the controls deflecting beyond a certain
point.
> He is absolutely correct.
>
> My experience: back in the mid 90's, I was doing touch and goes in my J-6
> (taildragger) and the left main wheel brake locked up during the takeoff
> portion. As the airplane started to come around to the left, (at about 45
> mph) I was on the right rudder so hard that during the subsequent rebuild
I
> discovered that I had twisted the rudder pedal mechanism (dual setup)
about
> 30 degrees out of line by standing on it so hard. Now visualize what that
> would have done without rudder stops - the rudder would have been into the
> side of the elevator and I would have jammed the elevator solid at where
> ever it was at when things began to get exciting.
>
> That is why you need a rudder stop - if things get real exciting during a
> crosswind takeoff or landing, you will generate enough adrenaline in .2
> seconds to nail that rudder right through the end corner of your elevator
> and then you will get to enjoy even more adrenaline...
>
> Put the stops on.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>
> >
> >Thanks to Lar,Jack, Richard,and John for the replies to my query.
> >Looks like something I can still add in.
> >Was greeted as I came in the door from work this morning by a call from
> >the gent who will be conducting my airworthiness inspection, got a
> >tentative date of 5-23 at 10:00 AM for my inspection.
> >In the course of our conversation I asked him if he felt the rudder stop
> >would be a necessary thing, and he said no, as he didn't feel I would
ever
> >reach full rudder deflection in flight, he felt the stop would be more
for
> >paint protection while tied down in high wind and that he would leave it
> >to my discretion weather to install the stops or not.
> >What do you all say? Would you or wouldn't you?
> >Denny
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mk-3 rudder stops? The continuing saga |
> I'll definitly put the stops on. Now I am wondering why my kit didn't have
> them back in 92.
> Denny
Denny/Gang:
Doubt very seriously they were in the kits back
then. They weren't in mine in Feb 1991, SN:
M3-011.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mk-3 rudder stops? The continuing saga |
Hi Gang,
Ok, I'll put in my info. 1994 model FS II, cage is stamped with number 1162,
if I remember correctly, and the kit did come with the rudder stop just like
the one John H. posted a picture of.
Later,
John Cooley
>
> I'll definitly put the stops on. Now I am wondering why my kit didn't have
> > > them back in 92.
> > > Denny
> >
> > Denny/Gang:
> >
> > Doubt very seriously they were in the kits back
> > then. They weren't in mine in Feb 1991, SN:
> > M3-011.
>
> Not on mine either in 93...... M3-283
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mk-3 rudder stops? The continuing saga |
John,
My kit was #90 so it must have been the same as yours.
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mk-3 rudder stops? The continuing saga
>
>
> > I'll definitly put the stops on. Now I am wondering why my kit didn't
have
> > them back in 92.
> > Denny
>
> Denny/Gang:
>
> Doubt very seriously they were in the kits back
> then. They weren't in mine in Feb 1991, SN:
> M3-011.
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NOT AGAIN!!! HVLP VS. PRESSURE POT |
Ben and gang:
After talking with many painters and aircraft painters i decided to go
the graco HVLP (system 3800)
it lists for about $985.00 which does not mean any thing these days it is
what you pay that counts, paint sprayers out of Las vegas, nevada. has this
system $695.00 and non- residents pay no tax and about $20.00 to ship it...
then i found out that the distribution center is about 30 miles from my
house here in mn. and here i'm calling Las Vegas to order it so i found a
sherwin William's rep. that handles graco products and told him that i could
get a better deal down south and he did not want to lose out on a sale and
said i was getting a very good price so he matched it and saved me shipping
and i was able to get it tax exempt.
i decided not to get the pressure pot because it does not have the on board
compressor of course and the main reason is you will spend about $20.00
cleaning the hose with C2210 paint cleaner everytime you use it i'm told.
also you can still paint different attitudes with the 3800 system you just
have to keep the fan spray square with object to be painted and have the cup
rotated on the gun. picked up my cub yellow paint today and should be ready
to go in about 3 weeks. sorry to be so long winded. here is the link to the
site if any of you are interested.
http://www.searchalot.com/texis/open/s?p=google&q=hvlp+graco
getting educated....
Gary r. voigt
Ben Ransom wrote:
>
> Gary, let us know what model and price you find good on these better
> guns. Although it would be nice to be able to spray upside down or
> whatever, there is generally greater potential for runs this way too
> (speaking for myself anyway ;) ), so when easy, painting mostly
> downward is nice.
> -Ben
>
> --- Gary robert voigt wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hello guys, i have been doing my research on HVLP systems and it
> > seems that graco, devilbiss are the leaders in the industry there may
> > be
> > a few others but i did not want to spend 1800.00 on the top of the
> > line,
> > anyway my question is how many of you have used the pressure pot
> > system
> > or the capspray! it seems to me for only a couple hundred dollars
> > more
> > that would be the way to go particularly since my kolb is already
> > built
> > and i want to paint it a different color other than the juneau white
> > and
> > with this system you can apply paint in any attitude! thats right you
> > can lay on your back and paint the underside of the wing, you can not
> > do
> > this with most systems. is it worth the difference and did you get
> > good
> > results with regular HVLP. also do you gents go with a fresh air
> > system
> > or just a half mask. maybe by my first flyin this year i can get this
> > thing color coated!!!
> >
> > thanks in advance,
> > Gary r. voigt
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> =====
> http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
> __________________________________
> http://search.yahoo.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Victor 1+ - First Short Cross Country |
>
>Jack and Group,
>
>I would like to suggest that the speed difference is too much to make a
>decent comparison. I think that 2.1 gph should be achiveable with a 447.
>A few years ago I flew 60 miles at 45 mph with my 503 powered Firestar
>and got 2.25 gph. If a 503 can get that low at almost the same speed,
>then a 447 should be able to. I don't know if FireFly's need more fuel
>than Firestars, though.
>
>John Jung
>
>Jack Hart wrote:
>Ran some numbers to see how the Victor 1+ compared with the Rotax 447 over this
>same flight path. I had good data for nine flights with the Rotax 447. The
>average fuel burn was 5.7 gallons (3.1 gph). Yesterday, the Victor 1+ burned
>4.7 gallons (2.1 gph). In all fairness to the Rotax 447, the average flight ground
>speed was 58 mph and yesterday it was 48 mph.
>
John and Group,
I agree with you that it should be possible to get 2.1 gph with a 447 on a FireStar.
There are several factors in favor of the FireStar.
Assuming a 170 pound man and five gallons of gas and using TNK numbers for empty
weight one can find the following:
The wing loading of the FireStar will be 3.43 pounds per square foot and the FireFly
will be 3.88. So for any given speed, FireStar wing drag is going to be
less. The FireFly design presents much more drag. FireFly has two struts per
wing, FireStar has one strut per wing. FireFly has a short windshield, and
the FireStar has an all enclosing windshield.
Then I got to thinking. Early on I used to log engine rpm. I searched and looked
for logged flights that were 3/4 of an hour long or more and where the Rotax
447 was turning 5,000 rpm or less. I found four flights. Totaling the fuel
used and the flight times, the average overall fuel consumtion rate was 2.82
gph. The Victor 1+ was running at 5,000 rpm on 2.1 gph. The engine reduction
ratio favors the Victor 1+, but the propeller size favored the 447.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mk-3 rudder stops? The continuing saga |
>
> >> Doubt very seriously they were in the kits back
>> then. They weren't in mine in Feb 1991, SN:
>> M3-011.
>>
>> john h
>>
>
Must have included them around 1992. Rudder stop came in my kit M3-098.
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Experimentals and Capitalism |
In response to the post about making money with a homebuilt, I remember a post
about the professional photographer that makes a living taking pictures from
a MK 3 for Nationl Geographic or freelance.......How does he do that ?.... I
sometimes have requests to take pictures "for Hire" from my Ultralight( not Fat)
but am not sure how it applies to true ultralights... can't figure out where
I left my FAR book!...... I suppose it is hard to connect the pictures with
making money when you are the only one with the knowledge of taking those pictures.......
unless the camera was confiscated which probably would be a violation
of your rights........ unless a search warrant was used and that would be
a bit of a stretch.
As far as the rpm and airspeed numbers of the Firefly with different engines
I am wondering if my numbers from my enclosed ( read lower drag) Ultrastar are
correct. It seems my airspeed numbers must be too high unless the inline engine
and fuselage is that much of a decrease in drag to yield such high airspeed
numbers... I am in the process of building another more streamlined Ultrastar
but with changes to the first...One change will be to add 3 degrees of dihedral
to the wings and that may cause some loss of airspeed. Vortex generators
may offset the loss. Streamlined struts and smaller wheels will also help...I
had a 3 bladed Warp drive propellar of 50 inch diameter on the first machine
and will be using an Ivoprop of 50 inch diameter on the new one...The engines
and drives will be identical...Cuyuna UL202's with 2SI belt drives.....luckily
the first machine was sold to a friend that I will be flying with and comparisons
can be made...stay tuned....
Ed in Western NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
Demo flights, and experimental instruction, etc.. are
allowed. It has to be within the framework of the
rules.
===================
FAA considers that to be a Romper Room No-No.
=====
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Experimental Restrictions |
> Demo flights, and experimental instruction, etc.. are
> allowed. It has to be within the framework of the
> rules.
Ron/Gang:
I changed the subject line to reflect what we are
talking about.
Best check the FAR. I looked for it this
morning, but could not pull it up on the computer.
IIRC experimental instruction can only be given in
the students experimental. Not the instructors.
Also, no charges for flights. However, one can
accept contributions to help offset fuel cost,
etc. But you can not charge the passenger.
You can use your experimental to spray your on
farm, but can not legally hire out to spray your
neighbors. But I bet you can do it for free and
then your neighbor may want to help you out with
your fuel bill, etc., as a
donation/contribution/expense sharing.
I'm pulling the above out of my head. Will give
you an idea of some of the restrictions for hiring
out. But best read the reg.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Experimental Restrictions |
I run a across an ac or was some other official thing
(could have been an article in experimenter based on
an FAA finding, aint sure which or where, but if my
butt is in the sling, you can bet yours that I'll find
it). That explains that you can (gotta be a cfi)
instruct in an experimental if the student is going to
buy the same aircraft, or build the same aircraft.
Anyway there are enough holes in that to make it a
viable possibility. But you wll have to go by the rest
of the rules as well. 100 hr inspections, gotta be a
*CFI* etc.. there ain't no free lunch.
=============================
> > Demo flights, and experimental instruction, etc..
> are
> > allowed. It has to be within the framework of the
> > rules.
>
> Ron/Gang:
>
> I changed the subject line to reflect what we are
> talking about.
>
> Best check the FAR. I looked for it this
> morning, but could not pull it up on the computer.
>
> IIRC experimental instruction can only be given in
> the students experimental. Not the instructors.
>
=====
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NOT AGAIN!!! HVLP VS. PRESSURE POT |
Ben and gang:
i wanted to be the first to admit that i gave some wrong info yesterday...when
i
stated that you are suppose to use C2210 to clean the pressure pot hose is wrong,
what i ment to say is to use reducer only...C2210 is a paint cleaner only. also
the
axis HVLP system ( the unit that Jim & Dondi sell) is a very good system and whatever
HVLP you go with make sure that you are getting a quality gun because that is the
heart of the system and also it should be a 3-stage unit with min. of a 40' hose.
there is a lot to learn about Hvlp systems.
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
still getting educated
Gary robert voigt wrote:
>
> Ben and gang:
> After talking with many painters and aircraft painters i decided to go
> the graco HVLP (system 3800)
> it lists for about $985.00 which does not mean any thing these days it is
> what you pay that counts, paint sprayers out of Las vegas, nevada. has this
> system $695.00 and non- residents pay no tax and about $20.00 to ship it...
> then i found out that the distribution center is about 30 miles from my
> house here in mn. and here i'm calling Las Vegas to order it so i found a
> sherwin William's rep. that handles graco products and told him that i could
> get a better deal down south and he did not want to lose out on a sale and
> said i was getting a very good price so he matched it and saved me shipping
> and i was able to get it tax exempt.
> i decided not to get the pressure pot because it does not have the on board
> compressor of course and the main reason is you will spend about $20.00
> cleaning the hose with C2210 paint cleaner everytime you use it i'm told.
> also you can still paint different attitudes with the 3800 system you just
> have to keep the fan spray square with object to be painted and have the cup
> rotated on the gun. picked up my cub yellow paint today and should be ready
> to go in about 3 weeks. sorry to be so long winded. here is the link to the
> site if any of you are interested.
> http://www.searchalot.com/texis/open/s?p=google&q=hvlp+graco
>
> getting educated....
> Gary r. voigt
>
> Ben Ransom wrote:
>
> >
> > Gary, let us know what model and price you find good on these better
> > guns. Although it would be nice to be able to spray upside down or
> > whatever, there is generally greater potential for runs this way too
> > (speaking for myself anyway ;) ), so when easy, painting mostly
> > downward is nice.
> > -Ben
> >
> > --- Gary robert voigt wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Hello guys, i have been doing my research on HVLP systems and it
> > > seems that graco, devilbiss are the leaders in the industry there may
> > > be
> > > a few others but i did not want to spend 1800.00 on the top of the
> > > line,
> > > anyway my question is how many of you have used the pressure pot
> > > system
> > > or the capspray! it seems to me for only a couple hundred dollars
> > > more
> > > that would be the way to go particularly since my kolb is already
> > > built
> > > and i want to paint it a different color other than the juneau white
> > > and
> > > with this system you can apply paint in any attitude! thats right you
> > > can lay on your back and paint the underside of the wing, you can not
> > > do
> > > this with most systems. is it worth the difference and did you get
> > > good
> > > results with regular HVLP. also do you gents go with a fresh air
> > > system
> > > or just a half mask. maybe by my first flyin this year i can get this
> > > thing color coated!!!
> > >
> > > thanks in advance,
> > > Gary r. voigt
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > =====
> > http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
> >
> > __________________________________
> > http://search.yahoo.com
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "NBD" <mk3(at)bailinair.com> |
Does anyone have a recent price on the cost of a Rotax 912 engine package
from Kolb?
Thanks.
Noel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NOT AGAIN!!! HVLP VS. PRESSURE POT |
Gary/Gang:
Have been using an HVLP system I bought from Jim
and Dondi Miller two years ago. Does a good job,
has fresh air system in addition to the spray
system. Should have had this setup 19 years ago
when I got started in the addictive hobby of
airplane building and flying.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley & Essential Fluids |
John, You mentioned Red Areothane and Polyspray an polytone and such.....as
I also am painting....can you tell me if I can apply Red aerothane over
white Polytone?.....or any aerothane over polytone for that matter. It
sounds like you might be doing this, and I have asked the venders...and of
course they all recommend just Polytone...or just aerothane....
What I have in mind is Red Aerothane Stripes over white Poly-tone. Got the
second coat of white on today...
"putting on the colors!!!!"
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Victor 1+ - First Short Cross Country |
Jack...I thought as lift is increased...so is drag?????...college was a long
tome ago...so correct me if i'm thinking wrong....lift overcomes
gravity......thrust overcomes drag......wouldnt the Firefly wing therefore
have less lift...and less drag too???...other than the struts...
snipped...((((wing loading of the FireStar will be 3.43 pounds per square
foot and the FireFly will be 3.88. So for any given speed, FireStar wing
drag is going to be less. The FireFly design presents much more drag.))))
"in the painting mode now.....wahooo!"
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley & Essential Fluids |
Don, I can't speak for John, but aerothane has a few strikes against it.
1. get you sick if not VERY well ventilated 2. Quirky behavior as far as
being "pissy" if not allowed pot time, sensitivity to dust, oil spots,
-It will be more glossy than the polytone,why not shoot poly red and
then clear aerothane on top for a more uniform result? That's what
I did last year and it turned out well. The only downside is that the
clear will tend to yellow slightly over time. -BB
Don Gherardini wrote:
>
>John, You mentioned Red Areothane and Polyspray an polytone and such.....as
>I also am painting....can you tell me if I can apply Red aerothane over
>white Polytone?.....or any aerothane over polytone for that matter. It
>sounds like you might be doing this, and I have asked the venders...and of
>course they all recommend just Polytone...or just aerothane....
>
>What I have in mind is Red Aerothane Stripes over white Poly-tone. Got the
>second coat of white on today...
>
>
>"putting on the colors!!!!"
>
>
>http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
>Don Gherardini-
>FireFly 098
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ian Heritch" <iheritch(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Poly Tone vs. Aerothane |
Don, the Aerothane will spray nicely over Poly Tone, but, Aerothane is much
more glossy than Poly Tone although you can add a gloss retarder, but why?
If you are going to keep one color Poly Tone why not keep the entire paint
job Poly Tone. Poly Tone is safer and easier to apply. Call Jim & Dondi
and they will explain how to easily get Poly Tone to be more glossy
(although it will never be as glossy as Aerothane).
Both products are very good, but I think you will be happy with the entire
aircraft completely one product or the other.
Happy painting...
Ian Heritch
San Antonio, TX
Slingshot, 912 100% Aerothane
>
> John, You mentioned Red Areothane and Polyspray an polytone and
such.....as
> I also am painting....can you tell me if I can apply Red aerothane over
> white Polytone?.....or any aerothane over polytone for that matter. It
> sounds like you might be doing this, and I have asked the venders...and of
> course they all recommend just Polytone...or just aerothane....
>
> What I have in mind is Red Aerothane Stripes over white Poly-tone. Got the
> second coat of white on today...
>
>
> "putting on the colors!!!!"
>
>
> http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
> Don Gherardini-
> FireFly 098
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Aerothane and Polytone |
> I also am painting....can you tell me if I can apply Red aerothane over
> white Polytone?.....or any aerothane over polytone for that matter. It
> sounds like you might be doing this, and I have asked the venders...and of
> course they all recommend just Polytone...or just aerothane....
>
> What I have in mind is Red Aerothane Stripes over white Poly-tone. Got the
> second coat of white on today...
> Don Gherardini-
Don/Gang:
I changed the subject line.
Yes, by all means. Paint Aerothane over
Polytone. I think that will look cool, deep
Aerothane shiny stripes over soft white Polytone.
Polybrush, Polyspray, Polytone are all in the same
family. Only difference is the pigments used.
Polybrush uses something like superfine talc to
fill the weave in the dacron, aluminum powder in
Polyspray for UV blockage, and colored pigments in
Polytone. Use the same reducer for all these.
Aerothane compatible or you couldn't shoot it over
Polybrush or Polyspray.
Read the directions on the cans and you are good
to go. Most folks know to use a fresh air source
for two part epoxy primer and two part urethanes.
The isociantes are not stopped by charcoal
cartridges in respirators. These little fellers
are the ones that can kill you.
Good luck,
john h
PS: I undercoat all my colors with isignia white
Polytone to bring out the true colors of the
aerothane or polytone. Don't use Polytone on
metal.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Aerothane and Polytone |
> 1. get you sick if not VERY well ventilated 2. Quirky behavior as far as
> being "pissy" if not allowed pot time, sensitivity to dust, oil spots,
> -It will be more glossy than the polytone,why not shoot poly red and
> then clear aerothane on top for a more uniform result? That's what
> I did last year and it turned out well. The only downside is that the
> clear will tend to yellow slightly over time. -BB
BB/Don/Gang:
I changed the subject line.
Change 1. above to: get you sick if you do not
have a fresh air source.
2. Takes a little more skill to shoot Aerothane.
A monkey can shoot Polytone. Probably teach a
monkey to look at the clock and know when 30
minutes is up after mixing the catalyst and the
base of Aerothane. All paints, dopes, and
cements, are sensitive to dust, oil spots.
Shooting clear Aerothane over Polytone is a major
project. Much more difficult to shoot clear
Aerothane or clear Polytone (yes you can get clear
Polytone) over pigmented Polytone. I do not
recommend that procedure. Adds an additional step
to a lot of other steps.
The reason clear Aerothane has a yellow cast is
because it has a UV block that causes it to has a
yellow cast.
You can get Aerothane and Polytone with a UV block
added. This precludes the Polyspray and white
Polytone base coat. However, it tends to give all
the colors that yellow cast. Not recommended, but
in the old days folks tried this system to try and
meet the 254 lb limit on ULs.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aerothane and Polytone |
> The isociantes are not stopped by charcoal
Ya'll:
I think the way to spell the above is,
isocyanates???
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aerothane and Polytone |
Thx John...Just what I wanted to know. I am well aware of the dangers of
cyanides in paint, when inron came out I painted 3 large box trucks (c-60
chevys) with it in one week...20 years ago probably...like to killed me...
And that is the biggest reason I dont wanna use it for the whole program. I
have talked to jim miller about how to get polytone glossier...and I am
doing all the tricks....retarder...keepin the paint in the fridge...and
painting at 65 degrees. It aint too bad....but I would really like the red
to shine a little more than the white is...thats why I asked.
I believe I have the painting skills to do it, as I have done many a custom
job on cars and motorcycles over the years...flames are my specialty. But I
dont know IF I have the gumption to do all the masking work..after seeing
that FireFly down at sun 'n 'Fun...I was pretty inspired!....so I have a
similiar scheme in mind. IF I screw it up...well its only money right!
....and Time.....It is definatley adding alot of time to my building
project...Im gonna start masking in the morning.
thx men.
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aerothane and Polytone |
> ....and Time.....It is definatley adding alot of time to my building
> project...Im gonna start masking in the morning.
> Don Gherardini-
Don/Gang:
Yes, any paint job other than a single color for
everything with Polytone is work intensive. For
example, I would be replacing the tail section on
Miss P'fer this morning if I had decided to paint
my airplane with white Polytone. However, I must
paint yellow Aerothane this morning, let it dry
until tomorrow morning so it will be ready to mask
and tape, then finally shoot red Aerothane.
I have built and repaired three airplanes over the
last 19 years. Every one of my airplanes paint
schemes were exactly alike, Pontiac Red and Cub
Yellow Sunburst. No matter which angle you look
at them, the sunburst design is always the same,
top, bottom, left and right, front and rear.
Everytime I have to repair and repaint, I swear I
will paint my next airplane Cub yellow, period.
But when everything is all finished, it is my
airplane, my paint scheme, and I enjoy looking at
it. Would not be the same any other way, despite
all the extra work and money involved.
Two weeks from today, weather, machine, and me,
cooperating, should land at Gouldings airstrip,
Monument Valley, Utah. I'm getting excited now.
Have not flown a cross country, other than Sun and
Fun 2002, since my flight to Barrow.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aerothane and Polytone |
Don, i have talked with many polytone painters and when i paint mine cub
yellow (143) i'm going to buff it out with a 3M product to give it a high gloss
after about two weeks after it is painted
thanks,
Gary r. voigt
Don Gherardini wrote:
>
> Thx John...Just what I wanted to know. I am well aware of the dangers of
> cyanides in paint, when inron came out I painted 3 large box trucks (c-60
> chevys) with it in one week...20 years ago probably...like to killed me...
> And that is the biggest reason I dont wanna use it for the whole program. I
> have talked to jim miller about how to get polytone glossier...and I am
> doing all the tricks....retarder...keepin the paint in the fridge...and
> painting at 65 degrees. It aint too bad....but I would really like the red
> to shine a little more than the white is...thats why I asked.
> I believe I have the painting skills to do it, as I have done many a custom
> job on cars and motorcycles over the years...flames are my specialty. But I
> dont know IF I have the gumption to do all the masking work..after seeing
> that FireFly down at sun 'n 'Fun...I was pretty inspired!....so I have a
> similiar scheme in mind. IF I screw it up...well its only money right!
> ....and Time.....It is definatley adding alot of time to my building
> project...Im gonna start masking in the morning.
>
> thx men.
> http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
> Don Gherardini-
> FireFly 098
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aerothane and Polytone |
ARGGGGHHHH...After 5 hours on the clock of masking the horizontals.....I
shot the first coat of red polytone...waited 30 min...and peeled the
3m-painters choice masking tape off to admire my work.
Disaster....virtually every edge bled across under the tape feathering out
into the white....If any of you were outside, or had you windows down...you
might have heard me screaminmg and cussin. ...jeez...is there some secret to
keeping nice edges on a stripe when painting stitts cloth?????
the white was more than 24 hours old...good an dry. The tape was what I
thought was good quality...in fact, there were a couple of areas where I
used another kind of masking tape, still 3-M, but very narrow..1/4 inch for
going around tite curves. It was from the auto parts store...auto painting
stuff...bled there also. I rubbed all the edges with my fingers before i
painted to insure a good adhesion...Just like I have done for years flaming
fenders on cars with never a single problem.(This is my first cloth paint
attempt). I'm looking for some advice men!!!
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aerothane and Polytone |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Aerothane and Polytone
....virtually every edge bled across under the tape feathering out
> into the white....
I think you was supposed to put down a white coat after taping then the red.
That way it's the white that bleeds onto the white and it also seals so that
the red won't bleed through.......Kirk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Aerothane and Polytone |
One way to prevent the paint from going under the tape is after taping
shoot, in this case, the white along the tape edges. If it runs under no big
problem. Then shoot your stripe color. Used this many years ago when
painting model airplanes.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Aerothane and Polytone
>
> ARGGGGHHHH...After 5 hours on the clock of masking the horizontals.....I
> shot the first coat of red polytone...waited 30 min...and peeled the
> 3m-painters choice masking tape off to admire my work.
> Disaster....virtually every edge bled across under the tape feathering out
> into the white....If any of you were outside, or had you windows
down...you
> might have heard me screaminmg and cussin. ...jeez...is there some secret
to
> keeping nice edges on a stripe when painting stitts cloth?????
> the white was more than 24 hours old...good an dry. The tape was what I
> thought was good quality...in fact, there were a couple of areas where I
> used another kind of masking tape, still 3-M, but very narrow..1/4 inch
for
> going around tite curves. It was from the auto parts store...auto painting
> stuff...bled there also. I rubbed all the edges with my fingers before i
> painted to insure a good adhesion...Just like I have done for years
flaming
> fenders on cars with never a single problem.(This is my first cloth paint
> attempt). I'm looking for some advice men!!!
>
> http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
> Don Gherardini-
> FireFly 098
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Carr" <dcarr(at)uniontel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aerothane and Polytone |
I have never used any of the new paints as I am an old A&E from the 50s but
we always brushed clear on the edge of the tape to seal it from bleeding. I
am sure the base color would work fine also. It will seal the tape so not
leak.
Dave Carr
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Aerothane and Polytone
>
> ARGGGGHHHH...After 5 hours on the clock of masking the horizontals.....I
> shot the first coat of red polytone...waited 30 min...and peeled the
> 3m-painters choice masking tape off to admire my work.
> Disaster....virtually every edge bled across under the tape feathering out
> into the white....If any of you were outside, or had you windows
down...you
> might have heard me screaminmg and cussin. ...jeez...is there some secret
to
> keeping nice edges on a stripe when painting stitts cloth?????
> the white was more than 24 hours old...good an dry. The tape was what I
> thought was good quality...in fact, there were a couple of areas where I
> used another kind of masking tape, still 3-M, but very narrow..1/4 inch
for
> going around tite curves. It was from the auto parts store...auto painting
> stuff...bled there also. I rubbed all the edges with my fingers before i
> painted to insure a good adhesion...Just like I have done for years
flaming
> fenders on cars with never a single problem.(This is my first cloth paint
> attempt). I'm looking for some advice men!!!
>
> http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
> Don Gherardini-
> FireFly 098
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | aerothane and polytone |
What I don't remember seeing posted is who else has done aerothane trim
over polytone? The sealing ideas are good. I had good results with 3M
#2070 low adhesion except where I had to go over rivet heads it had to be
reinforced with regular tape - lousy flexibility but a great sharp edge.
This was with polytone on polytone. Don, what was the OAT? -should
be 75 deg in the pot for 30 min to attain some body. -BB thanks for
the warning, don't think I'll try that combo.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aerothane and polytone |
Well Bob....OAT was 67 deg....and I had 2 cap fuls of retarder in the cup
and 4 to 1 reducer.....just like the book says. Im spraying in this slightly
chilly weather to help the gloss......
The Tape was the purple....med adhesion...and I have some blue also...didnt
use it yet.
Fellas....now that edge sealing idea sounds like a real winner to me...or
laying down a white coat after masking.
I suppose...in trying to get a gloss...doin all those things to slow down
drying contributes to this bled problem...
No dang wonder all them show planes use auto paint!!!!!
Frustrated
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aerothane and polytone |
> Fellas....now that edge sealing idea sounds like a real winner to me...or
> laying down a white coat after masking.
>
> I suppose...in trying to get a gloss...doin all those things to slow down
> drying contributes to this bled problem...
>
> No dang wonder all them show planes use auto paint!!!!!
>
> Frustrated
> Don Gherardini-
Don/Gents:
You'll get over it. :-)
I have built a few show planes with good results.
Never used anything but Stitts/Polyfiber
products. No automobile paints.
Masking tape is not designed for taping lines. No
need to go through all the other additional
painting after masking tape is applied. The
correct product for taping lines is "3M fine line
polypropolene tape". It is designed for just that
purpose. I use 1/2" width.
Use the 3m auto painting masking tape to mask with
and also to stick the masking paper. Nothing
else.
I have miles of tape lines on my airplanes. First
I put down the "fine line" tape to get my design.
Then I go back and mask the areas that don't get
painted.
Regular masking tape is crepe paper. It is
designed for paint to bleed under.
In the morning I will get up and mask the sun
burst on the vertical stabilizer. Soon as I get
that done I will shoot red aerothane and my repair
job will be ready to reassemble on the airplane
Monday or Tuesday.
If anyone hears a scream about noon tomorrow,
central time, it means I have screwed up my paint
job.
The 3M Fine Line Polypropylene Tape will bend much
better than masking tape.
It is expensive, but worth every penny when the
painting is done.
Some of you all did not get my msg about the
family of Polybrush. Anyhow, there is no problem
painting Aerothane over Polytone. Been doing it
since day one, and that was a while ago.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aerothane and polytone |
> What I don't remember seeing posted is who else has done aerothane trim
> over polytone? -BB thanks for
> the warning, don't think I'll try that combo.
BB/Gang:
All the fabric on my airplane is Aerothane over
Polytone.
I do not see any difference in success when
trimming with aerothane. I wouldn't use that
method though. If I was going to trim Polytone I
would stay with the same system and use Polytone
to trim with. Much easier to repair.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aerothane and polytone |
John Hauk wrote.
. The correct product for taping lines is "3M fine line
> polypropolene tape". It is designed for just that
> purpose. I use 1/2" width.
>
> Use the 3m auto painting masking tape to mask with
> and also to stick the masking paper. Nothing
> else.
john h
John and Gang,
Jim Miller told me to never use the vinal based (polypropolene) fine line
tapes when (spraying poly-anything). As all the poly products are vinal
based, they will desolve the tapes and make a terrible mess.
These tapes work fine with Aerothane as that is not a vinal product. This is
why John has never had problems using the tapes on his Aerothane jobs.
With Polytone, the Millers and the Poly manual say to use the good autobody
paper masking tape, I used the green 3M stuff with good results on 59 degree
days.
Denny Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aerothane and polytone |
> Jim Miller told me to never use the vinal based (polypropolene) fine line
> tapes when (spraying poly-anything). As all the poly products are vinal
> based, they will desolve the tapes and make a terrible mess.
> These tapes work fine with Aerothane as that is not a vinal product. This is
> why John has never had problems using the tapes on his Aerothane jobs.
> With Polytone, the Millers and the Poly manual say to use the good autobody
> paper masking tape, I used the green 3M stuff with good results on 59 degree
> days.
>
> Denny Rowe
Denny/Gang:
I stand corrected then.
The one time I used polytone with tape lines was
my Ultrastar. Then I clear coated it with clear
Aerothane. I used paper masking tape, but not
green or what ever. Ordinary auto type 3M masking
tape.
The Firestar and MK III were all shot with white
Polytone as a base coat and then finished up with
Aerothane.
I think I will do an experiment with some fine
line tape and see what happens.
john h
BTW: After two more cups of coffee, it is time to
go down to the "mole hole" and mask for final
red. Got my fingers crossed that I have enough
red. I bought a quart last August when I did the
lower vertical stabilizer and there's not much
left.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: aerothane and polytone |
In a message dated 5/4/03 8:16:11 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com writes:
> Jim Miller told me to never use the vinal based (polypropolene) fine line
> >tapes when (spraying poly-anything). As all the poly products are vinal
> >based, they will desolve the tapes and make a terrible mess.
>
Denny,
I'm not sure what material 3M fine line tape is made from but I used several
hundred feet taping my plane and sprayed Polytone paint with no problems. Is
it possible that Jim was thinking of a tape other than the 3M fine line
tape??
Steven
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aerothane and polytone |
> I'm not sure what material 3M fine line tape is made from but I used several
> hundred feet taping my plane and sprayed Polytone paint with no problems. Is
> it possible that Jim was thinking of a tape other than the 3M fine line
> tape??
>
> Steven
Steven/Gang:
Good morning. Where you been hiding?
I dug out the manual, Polyfiber, Procedure Manual
No. 1, Revision No. 19, July 1999. There may be
newer versions, but this is the one Jim and Dondi
sent me two years ago when it came time to do Miss
P'fer's left wing, aileron, and flap.
To see what it says, go to:
http://home.sw.rr.com/jhauck/Airplane%20Stuff/Polytone.JPG
http://home.sw.rr.com/jhauck/Airplane%20Stuff/Aerothane.JPG
The manual doesn't say not use 3M Polypropolene
Fine Line Tape with Polytone. However, it
recommends using it with Aerothane.
Looks like Steven Green had no problem with
polypropolene and Polytone. I have closely
inspected his airplane and his tape lines. They
are sharp, crisp, and I don't remember seeing any
problems with Polytone creeping under tape edges.
john h
PS: I may have to retract my "I stand corrected"
msg. :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aerothane and polytone |
Thanks for all the good advice men, as for vinyl tape, I didnt use it simply
because i am aware that polytone is vinyl based, and the thinners and such
dissolve vinyl. I have lots of vinyl pinstriping tape that I have used many
times in the past for masking intricate details on motorcycle tamks and
autos....I have been tempted to try it, but I have resisted simply because
of the expierience I had on some of those disposable vinyl gloves when
covering this bird.....MEK...65-75..and ploytak all dissolved holes in those
gloves right quick...so that day I learned the difference between vinyl and
latex gloves!! BTW...."Play-Tex" brand name gloves work ok too!
Upon staring at this mess now since yesterday....I got out the magnifing
glass and looked at the fabric. The weave is easily seen. so I can
understand how thinned paint can bleed under the tape edges.
Now...Do I not have enough white paint or poly-brush on this fabric?...do I
need to have enough of the weave filled so I cannot see it?..enough so there
is a smooth , slick finish before the tape can seal the edge line?
these are the questions that are running thru my feeble, frustrated mind
now.
Don G
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aerothane and polytone |
Don/Gang:
Try not to give advice, but I will tell you what I
think.
> Thanks for all the good advice men, as for vinyl tape, I didnt use it simply
> because i am aware that polytone is vinyl based, and the thinners and such
> dissolve vinyl.
Now........I am not a chemist, but I will venture
to guess that vinyl is not polypropolene. 3M Fine
Line Polypropolene Tape is made of prolypropolene,
not vinyl.
Did a couple experiments, while I am contemplating
masking my sunburst with Fine Line Polypropolene
Tape..........
Put a piece of the above in a container with
Polyfiber Reducer, 8500. It dissolved the cement
on the tape, but not the tape.
Same experiment with Aerothane Reducer. It also
dissolved the cement, but not the tape.
My conclusion: Polytone and Aerothane will
dissolve the cement on polypropolene tape, but not
the tape.
> Now...Do I not have enough white paint or poly-brush on this fabric?...do I
> need to have enough of the weave filled so I cannot see it?..enough so there
> is a smooth , slick finish before the tape can seal the edge line?
> these are the questions that are running thru my feeble, frustrated mind
> now.
Are you using Polyspray. I believe Polybrush
seals the weave and Polyspray fills the weave (if
that's what one wants to do), provides a sanding
base and UV protection.
My fabric work shows the weave of the fabric. EAA
Judges like that over trying to "slobber" the dope
on until it covers all the defects, tape edges,
and the weave.
If I had qualms about any of this finishing
process, I would make a test piece, finish it just
like your airplane, and experiment on it rather
than take a chance on having to redo your work.
However, shooting a couple more coats to correct a
problem can be done with Polytone and Aerothane.
I have screwed up work, let it dry about a week,
sanded the buggers out of it, and repainted. The
longer Polytone and Aerothane dry the better they
sand.
BTW: I do not wet sand fabric. I use 400 wet dry
paper and compressed air to blow the sanding
residue off the work. Usually knock off the
buggers only, but if I have to repaint work that
is over 7 days old I will hit it lightly with 400
and no water.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M. Domenic Perez" <perezmdomenic(at)plateautel.net> |
| Subject: | Auto paint and small repairs |
Kolbers,
As long as we are on this paint subject, perhaps someone has experience
with fabric patching and repainting when the plane was painted with auto
paint. An overly enthusiastic friend helped me ding an aileron on my
Firestar II loading it into the trailer (pre-winch time period). It's
flyable as it is, but of course, someday it must be returned to perfection
(or near perfection). I'm not the builder/painter, but the guy who did, did
a gorgeous job on it. The ding is so minor, I hate to have to re-fabric and
repaint after a proper repair (on the trailing edge tube). Correct me if I'm
wrong, but I assume the problem with auto paint on airplane fabric is the
Catch-22 situation that a solvent that will remove it will also harm or
destroy the underlying fabric, so that it is unsound to reglue a patch to
it. Dondi Miller told me the only thing to do was to use sandpaper to get
the paint off the fabric, but I foresee great difficulty getting all the
paint off without hurting the fabric with the sanding. My paint job is, by
coincidence or plagiarism, almost like Hauck's - red and yellow sunburst.
The rays continue from the wing onto the aileron adding to the difficulty of
getting them aligned right if I have to recover the whole aileron, which may
be the only answer. Some gold metalflake was even added to the red and
figuring out how much to add to the paint will no doubt be another problem.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
M. Domenic Perez
Vaughn, New Mexico
FS II, 503
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aerothane and polytone |
> BTW: I do not wet sand fabric. I use 400 wet dry
> paper and compressed air to blow the sanding
> residue off the work. No water.
AND A TAC RAG JUST PRIOR TO SHOOTING DOPE OR
PAINT!
JOHN H
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto paint and small repairs |
> Any suggestions are appreciated.
>
> M. Domenic Perez
M. Domenic/Gang:
If the damage is "strictly cosmetic, I'd figure
out if I could put a sticky decal on it. My MK
III is covered up, especially the horizontal
stabilizers and elevators with decals. Not there
to advertise, but cover holes in fabric, rather
than the alternative of going through the long
tedious process of repairing aerothane.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "NBD" <mk3(at)bailinair.com> |
| Subject: | John Hauk: McCreary 8.00 X 6 tires |
John,
I bought a set of McCreary AirTrac 8.00 X 6 tire with tubes as you advised
last Spring, wondering if you can tell me how much air pressure you run in
them these days on your MK III.
Thank you.
Noel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aerothane and polytone |
Sanding the "little buggers" off, huh ?? I haven't had a chance to try this
yet, but will tomorrow......................several years ago Possum sent me
some teflon fabric, that, as I recall, was to help iron out those little
bumps and runs. I found a couple of places on my ailerons where the A&P got
some pretty good runs, and when I pointed them out, he said he'd sand, and
re-paint. There's LOTS of paint on Vamoose now, prob'ly 100 lbs worth,
:-( and I didn't want any more. That teflon fabric came to mind, and I
asked him to wait, cause I wanted to try something. As I remember, I'm
supposed to set the iron to a fairly low temperature, put the teflon over
the run, and iron thru it, to smooth out the run, and avoid having the iron
stick to the paint. Don G......................I'm not an
expert by any stretch, and you've prob'ly thought of this, but from reading
about your paint bleeding problem....................since it's now dry,
would it be possible to sand the bled edge smooth, mask the red with the
proper tape, and re-shoot a light touch-up of the white to cover the
bled-thru red edges ???
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: aerothane and polytone
>
> Don/Gang:
>
> Try not to give advice, but I will tell you what I
> think.
>
> > Thanks for all the good advice men, as for vinyl tape, I didnt use it
simply
> > because i am aware that polytone is vinyl based, and the thinners and
such
> > dissolve vinyl.
>
> Now........I am not a chemist, but I will venture
> to guess that vinyl is not polypropolene. 3M Fine
> Line Polypropolene Tape is made of prolypropolene,
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aerothane and polytone |
Ill take you advice John., and/ or your ideas..and thank ya fer being so
liberal with it pard!....
Polypropolene and vinyl..now this is good stuff, you have caused me to go
into my box of tape and discover I have BOTH....and I didnt even knowm it.
some 3-m, some NAPA brand..and some others too...all thios pinstriping tape
is not vinyl, as I thought before john pointed this out...thanks John!
yes..I applied 2 coats of Poly-spray silver before 2 coats of white. some
times 3 coats where it was a little thin.
I am gonna figger this out...as I now have 4 test pieces....2 horizontals
and 2 elevators that are screwed up ...so I am cleaning it off preparing for
another go....
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: John Hauk: McCreary 8.00 X 6 tires |
> I bought a set of McCreary AirTrac 8.00 X 6 tire with tubes as you advised
> last Spring, wondering if you can tell me how much air pressure you run in
> them these days on your MK III.
> Noel
Hi Noel/Gang:
I did what? Just sent a post to the List that
said I tried not to give advise. :-)
Good choice though.
I fly off a grass strip most of the time. If I
land at the local airport, I usually pick the
grass between the taxiway and the runway. For off
field, sod ops I like 6 psi.
If I am going to be flying predominately off
pavement, then I go with 8 psi.
These will give you something to start with. You
can experiment and find the pressure that suits
your situation best.
Initially I tried everything from 20 psi down to
what I use now.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kuffel <kuffel(at)cyberport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aerothane and Polytone |
Don G.,
Besides all the good advice there is one point which hasn't been
mentioned yet.
<>
3M sells a special squeegee but any stiff block of plastic which tapers
to a rounded point will do. After taping go over every edge with the
point of the squeegee with moderately hard pressure. A friend with a
biplane had exactly the same problem even though he used the most
expensive 3M tape others have mentioned. With fabric the extra step to
thoroughly seal the edge of the tape is needed.
Tom Kuffel
Whitefish, MT
Building Original FireStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron and flap setup |
The Kolb airfoil is a bit odd. The max thickness is at about 25% rather
than the more customoary 33% of chord. The aileron is also wider than would
be expected if you study the airfoil. If the top rear surface and the
bottom surface are straight lines then where they meet would give you a
maximum aileron chord of 6 inches. I set my ailerons up in a straight line
with the top surface then drop it an exta 1/2 inch to compensate for flight
loads.
Kolbs turn left. It is the nature of the beast.
>
>
>Kolbers,
>
>I'm still trying to get the roll out of this Mark III Extra.
>
>I could use some advice regarding the aileron and flapperon setup.
>
>Currently the ailerons are slightly drooped in the neutral position. Is
>this normal or should the profile be flat from the leading edge of the wing
>to the trailing edge of the aileron?
>
>Also, after a second look I found the SS to be relatively even across the
>horz. stab. Must of been an optical confusion of some sort. Loose nut on
>the level.
>
>As always, thanks in advance,
>
>Joe
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron and flap setup |
> I set my ailerons up in a straight line
> with the top surface then drop it an exta 1/2 inch to compensate for flight
> loads.
> Kolbs turn left. It is the nature of the beast.
Woody the Southerner (Canadian, that is)/Gang:
The "nature of the beast" is for the ailerons and
flaps to be pushed down in flight. If you don't
believe me, try letting the flap handle pop out of
the notch on landing. Which way did it go? If
you had full flaps on, it went up about half way
to the clean (no flap) position. If the flaps had
been in the clean position, they would have
dropped to about the mid point of adjustment.
If you adjust the ailerons with the top of the
wing, then drop them another 1/2", the air over
the wing will push them down even more. The
position of ailerons and flaps in the static
position on the ground, are not the same as they
are in flight.
If they are reflexed a tad on the ground, then
they will be about in line with the top and bottom
(split the two) of the wing.
Now.........what about this "Kolbs turn left, the
nature of the beast" BS?
Canadian Kolbs may have that "nature", but that
does not hold true for all Kolbs, or the average
Kolb. Don't you think it may have something to do
with how the airplane is rigged and whether there
is more weight on one side of the airplane or the
other?
Might be the way you all fly up there. :-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "NBD" <mk3(at)bailinair.com> |
| Subject: | McCreary 8.00 X 6 tires |
Hmmm ... Well, I don't know if you'd call it a recommendation, but you did
post what you where using them as part of a discussion about a year ago,
indicated that you liked them. I didn't see a post as to air pressures and
couldn't find one but have duely recorded your latest for posterity in my
newly started operations manual.
Regards
Noel
Kolb MK III Classic
http://www.bailinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hauck
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: John Hauk: McCreary 8.00 X 6 tires
> I bought a set of McCreary AirTrac 8.00 X 6 tire with tubes as you
> advised last Spring, wondering if you can tell me how much air
> pressure you run in them these days on your MK III.
> Noel
Hi Noel/Gang:
I did what? Just sent a post to the List that
said I tried not to give advise. :-)
Good choice though.
I fly off a grass strip most of the time. If I
land at the local airport, I usually pick the
grass between the taxiway and the runway. For off
field, sod ops I like 6 psi.
If I am going to be flying predominately off
pavement, then I go with 8 psi.
These will give you something to start with. You
can experiment and find the pressure that suits
your situation best.
Initially I tried everything from 20 psi down to
what I use now.
john h
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Share: Share photos & files with other List members.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "NBD" <mk3(at)bailinair.com> |
| Subject: | MK III Builders Log & Operations Manual |
Just curious, does anyone have a (detailed) builders log online or one that
can be emailed. It would be handy to be able to have access to same as a
reference of building sequence and of course the inevitable hint's and kinks
one encounters during the building process.
Also, an operations and maintenance manual would be handy as a guide to
creating my own.
Thanks.
Noel
Kolb MK III Classic
New Hampshire
http://www.bailinair.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Victor 1+ - First Short Cross Country |
>
>Jack...I thought as lift is increased...so is drag?????...college was a long
>tome ago...so correct me if i'm thinking wrong....lift overcomes
>gravity......thrust overcomes drag......wouldnt the Firefly wing therefore
>have less lift...and less drag too???...other than the struts...
>
>
> snipped...((((wing loading of the FireStar will be 3.43 pounds per square
>foot and the FireFly will be 3.88. So for any given speed, FireStar wing
>drag is going to be less. The FireFly design presents much more drag.))))
>
>
Don,
In this case what is generating the equivalent lift between the two planes is the
wing angle of attack. With the FireFly's higher wing loading, the wing has
to fly with a greater angle of attack than the FireStar's wing to maintain the
horizontal flight at the same speed. And so you are correct in that the FireFly's
wing is working harder and generating higher drag than the FireStar for
level flight at the same speed.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron and flap setup |
>
>
> > I set my ailerons up in a straight line
> > with the top surface then drop it an exta 1/2 inch to compensate for flight
> > loads.
>
> > Kolbs turn left. It is the nature of the beast.
>
>Woody the Southerner (Canadian, that is)/Gang:
>
>The "nature of the beast" is for the ailerons and
>flaps to be pushed down in flight. I
>If you adjust the ailerons with the top of the
>wing, then drop them another 1/2", the air over
>the wing will push them down even more. The
>position of ailerons and flaps in the static
>position on the ground, are not the same as they
>are in flight.
Unfortunately I am about 2 points dumber than a dandelion. My poor grasp
of physics would indicate that if there is a low pressure area on top of
the wing and a high pressure area on the bottom of the wing the aileron
would have a tendency to go toward the low pressure area. That would be
"up" in my limited understanding of things. Better mention that to Homer
and Dennis also. They used to, and maybe still do, put in their
instructions to deflect half an inch downwards to correct for flight loads.
>Now.........what about this "Kolbs turn left, the
>nature of the beast" BS?
>
>Canadian Kolbs may have that "nature", but that
>does not hold true for all Kolbs, or the average
>Kolb. Don't you think it may have something to do
>with how the airplane is rigged and whether there
>is more weight on one side of the airplane or the
>other?
>
>Might be the way you all fly up there. :-)
Again I admit to having below average pilot and building skills.
Unfortunately all My 2 place Kolbs have had a tendency to turn left when
flown solo. I attributed this to the weight distribution and accepted it as
the nature of the Kolbs (again based on my limited understanding of
physics) I have flown. I suppose I am the only one to notice this so please
do not think to unkindly about this poor Canadian.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron and flap setup |
Woody of the South (Cananada)/Gang:
Well..........I got you beat cause I am dumber
than a box of rocks.
I never really thought why it does what it does
until now. All I know is that ailerons/flaps are
pushed down and not up while in flight.
Picture in your mind the air flowing over the top
of the Kolb wing. It is accelerated, I believe,
and follows the surface of the wing, more or less,
which slope down towards the rear. The air on the
bottom of the wing is also being deflected down
because the bottom of the wing is flat in the
static position on the ground. But when it is
flying is is concave, because the pressure is
pushing up on the fabric. One of the reasons the
Kolb wing is not as fast as it could be if it had
a rigid surface on the bottom. If the top and
bottom air is being deflected down, the aileron is
going to want to weather vane in that downward
flow of air. Per the aviator of hauck's holler,
abalama.
> Unfortunately I am about 2 points dumber than a dandelion. My poor grasp
> of physics would indicate that if there is a low pressure area on top of
> the wing and a high pressure area on the bottom of the wing the aileron
> would have a tendency to go toward the low pressure area. That would be
> "up" in my limited understanding of things.
> Better mention that to Homer
> and Dennis also. They used to, and maybe still do, put in their
> instructions to deflect half an inch downwards to correct for flight loads.
I think what they were indicating was, if you want
more lift, shorter take off, a little slower
flight, droop the ailerons. Don't believe they
were saying the ailerons wanted to fly up and not
down.
> Again I admit to having below average pilot and building skills.
> Unfortunately all My 2 place Kolbs have had a tendency to turn left when
> flown solo.
Woody, one of the reasons I initially flew my Mark
III from the right seat. I knew the factory MK
III had a terrible tendancy to roll left when
flown solo from the left seat. Used to have to
put my right knee up against the stick to take
some of the load off my right arm when flying
other than local play time.
Not gonna hold it against ya this time. :-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron and flap setup - Paint and Repair |
> Woody of the South (Cananada)/Gang:
Woody/Kolbers:
The above should have read: Canada.
BTW: My vert stab is finished. It is hanging
down in the mole hole curing. Aerothane is some
amazing stuff. Yesterday I tried to get a gnat,
the Abalama State Bird, out of my freshly shot
paint. Used my index finger. The more I tried
the worse it got. I eventually ended up with a 3
inch trench where I was gropping for the gnat.
Hit that area a couple short shots at the end of
the session. That was yesterday. This morning it
was difficult to find the "uh oh".
As two part urethane cures, it continually flows
out and smooths itself. One of the reasons I like
to use it. It will keep on curing for about a
week or so.
I am worn out. Been a long day, but successful.
Had one little place to fix in the trim line.
Should have left it alone until tomorrow, but
couldn't wait. Made a worse mess out of it by
trying to repair. Will get it squared away in a
couple days, after the tail section is back on the
airplane. I know how to do it. The tape lines
are sharp as a razor. I am tickled pink.
Think I will take a break from painting tomorrow
and let the paint cure a little more before I try
to reinstall. It takes some persuasion to get the
tail post ring back in its correct location. The
1/4" bolt holes and all those darn rivet holes
have to be line up persackly and I won't get it
line up the first try.
Break time,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Davis - Comcast <davis207(at)comcast.net> |
Any one have experiance with Headsets, Inc's M-01 ANR inset kits?
Thanks
Chuck Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Davis - Comcast <davis207(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Firefly Shoulderbelts |
The Firefly manual (From the Old Kolb Cmpany) only shows a lap belt. Where
have people been attaching their shoulder harness? I currently have the
running all the way back to the engine mount. All the posible attachments
points further forward are less substantial. The only other oprion I see is
to drill and mount them onto the cage.
Chuck Davis
Firefly #0028
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly Shoulderbelts |
Maybe it would fit the wing attachment bolts.
Mine does, but it's not a firefly.
http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/Gapseal.jpg
>
>The Firefly manual (From the Old Kolb Cmpany) only shows a lap belt. Where
>have people been attaching their shoulder harness? I currently have the
>running all the way back to the engine mount. All the posible attachments
>points further forward are less substantial. The only other oprion I see is
>to drill and mount them onto the cage.
>
>Chuck Davis
>==============================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick & Martha Neilsen <neilsenrm(at)comcast.net> |
I have a set that I have been flying with for about three years. The noise
reduction works great with the frequency that my VW produces. I have heard
that with the higher frequency produced by higher RPM engines the noise
isn't canceled as well. I understand this is a problem with most if not all
ANR headsets.
Rick Neilsen
redrive VW powered MKIII
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chuck Davis -
Comcast
Subject: Kolb-List: ANR Headsets
Any one have experiance with Headsets, Inc's M-01 ANR inset kits?
Thanks
Chuck Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aerothane and Polytone |
Gang,
All this talk about tape, Thought I would comment. I used the 3M masking
tape 3/4 wide, BLUE in color and made of paper, for my trim colors over white
polytone with good results. Hope this helps.
Ed in Houston
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "vincenicely" <vincenicely(at)chartertn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ANR Headsets |
I have a set of Headsets, Inc. M-01 inserts in a David Clark Headset. I use
it with my Firestar II having a Rotax 503 with IVO 2 blade prop and in my
Sonerai having a Rotax 582 with Warp Drive 2 blade prop. In both machines,
the ANR gives a significant noise reduction compared to not having it. I
have been using mine about 3 years and am very pleased with the results.
Vinc Nicely
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M. Domenic Perez" <perezmdomenic(at)plateautel.net> |
| Subject: | Auto paint and small repairs |
The "ding" in my aileron trailing edge tube (5/16" diameter tubing, I
think) is substantial enough a bend so that fabric will definitely need to
be cut into, if not a section actually cut out, to properly inspect and
repair. The outboard section, out from the last rib, had the trailing edge
displace 2 to 3". I popped holes for safety wire to be wrapped around the
tubing and with a puller arrangement, returned it to within 1/2 to 3/4" of
normal location. I don't believe the tube is kinked but it needs attention.
The tubing repair will not be a mystery. The unknown here is proper
preparation of the auto painted fabric to get a patch to stick properly. Can
I sand the auto paint down enough without damaging the fabric that I want
the patch to stick to? Will it still stick good enough if it proved
impossible to completely sand away ALL of the auto paint in the area?
Gentlemen, this is why the poly system paints should be used.
M. Domenic Perez
Vaughn, NM
Firestar II, 503
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto paint and small repairs |
Suggestion: At the point where you know you are going to cut the fabric
away anyway, put a dab of paint stripper on the auto paint and see what
happens. I bet it will cut away the auto paint, and also the Stits down to
the fabric without hurting the fabric. If you can carefully strip away the
auto paint, then you can repair by laying in a fabric patch, feather sand
the edges of the auto paint, & you will be on your way.
You may be able to get it to strip the auto paint without going all the way
through to the Stits, but that's iffy. Either way, once you get the auto
paint off, everything becomes easier.
If the paint stripper doesn't work, or damages the fabric, it was a place
you were planning to cut off anyway, so...
Make sure you get all the stripper out before you begin to repair.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> The "ding" in my aileron trailing edge tube (5/16" diameter tubing, I
>think) is substantial enough a bend so that fabric will definitely need to
>be cut into, if not a section actually cut out, to properly inspect and
>repair. The outboard section, out from the last rib, had the trailing edge
>displace 2 to 3". I popped holes for safety wire to be wrapped around the
>tubing and with a puller arrangement, returned it to within 1/2 to 3/4" of
>normal location. I don't believe the tube is kinked but it needs attention.
>The tubing repair will not be a mystery. The unknown here is proper
>preparation of the auto painted fabric to get a patch to stick properly. Can
>I sand the auto paint down enough without damaging the fabric that I want
>the patch to stick to? Will it still stick good enough if it proved
>impossible to completely sand away ALL of the auto paint in the area?
> Gentlemen, this is why the poly system paints should be used.
>
>M. Domenic Perez
>Vaughn, NM
>Firestar II, 503
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | McCreary 8.00 X 6 tires |
One additional thing (advice?) to keep in mind, is that bigger softer
tires require more attention to get the wheels parallel with the runway
when landing in a crosswind on pavement. Big tire footprint and not
pointing in the direction of momentum will wake you right up! -- or
worse case, result in ground loop.
Get that windward wing down, airplane straight with rudder as req'd --
fun stuff!
-Ben
--- NBD wrote:
>
> Hmmm ... Well, I don't know if you'd call it a recommendation, but
> you did
> post what you where using them as part of a discussion about a year
> ago,
> indicated that you liked them. I didn't see a post as to air
> pressures and
> couldn't find one but have duely recorded your latest for posterity
> in my
> newly started operations manual.
>
> Regards
> Noel
> Kolb MK III Classic
> http://www.bailinair.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hauck
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: John Hauk: McCreary 8.00 X 6 tires
>
>
>
>
> > I bought a set of McCreary AirTrac 8.00 X 6 tire with tubes as you
> > advised last Spring, wondering if you can tell me how much air
> > pressure you run in them these days on your MK III.
>
> > Noel
>
> Hi Noel/Gang:
>
> I did what? Just sent a post to the List that
> said I tried not to give advise. :-)
>
> Good choice though.
>
> I fly off a grass strip most of the time. If I
> land at the local airport, I usually pick the
> grass between the taxiway and the runway. For off
> field, sod ops I like 6 psi.
>
> If I am going to be flying predominately off
> pavement, then I go with 8 psi.
>
> These will give you something to start with. You
> can experiment and find the pressure that suits
> your situation best.
>
> Initially I tried everything from 20 psi down to
> what I use now.
>
> john h
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> Share: Share photos & files with other List members.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: McCreary 8.00 X 6 tires |
> One additional thing (advice?) to keep in mind, is that bigger softer
> tires require more attention to get the wheels parallel with the runway
> when landing in a crosswind on pavement.
> -Ben
Hi Ben/Gang:
The 8.00X6 McCreary Air Tracs are far more
forgiving than what I used to fly with, Armstrong
and Cheng Shin 4 ply 8X6's. They are also trued
and balanced at the plant before they are shipped,
something the low speed cheapies do not do. The
reason for severely unbalanced out of round
problems. Cheaper ain't necessarily better. The
Air Tracs handle and feel 100% better than the off
road stuff.
BTW: Send me your tentative itinerary for S.
California. I may be able to catch up with you
somewhere. If not, maybe in the Sacremento area.
Just got my Las Vegas, SF, and Klamath Falls
Sectionals. Looking at them makes my heart rate
increase. Some beautiful flying out that way.
Gonna let the vert stab paint cure another day
before I try to install. Not a good day here
anyhow to be working at the airstrip. Looks like
tornado weather. We are on the southern edge of
it. Wind blowing like Hell.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
UN/SUBSCRIBE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron and flap setup |
>
>Woody of the South (Cananada)/Gang:
Cananada?
>]
>I never really thought why it does what it does
>until now. All I know is that ailerons/flaps are
>pushed down and not up while in flight.
Gotta see this one to belive it. Gonna have to make a wing model and
test it in a wind tunnel Anyone out there have an old model airplane wing
they can stick out a car window and see if John or I am right.
>Woody, one of the reasons I initially flew my Mark
>III from the right seat. I knew the factory MK
>III had a terrible tendancy to roll left when
>flown solo from the left seat. Used to have to
>put my right knee up against the stick to take
>some of the load off my right arm when flying
>other than local play time.
So perhaps my left turn is the nature of the beast idea is not total
B.S. Even the company plane had the tendancy. I am sure they rigged it right.
>Not gonna hold it against ya this time. :-)
>
>john h
Not gonna hold it against ya this time :-) :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aerothane and polytone |
Well ....I have just finished rubbing all the crap off of my horizontals
with MEK, went all the way down to the fabric...now I will start over on the
horizontals and the vators....sure glad I only did one side!
I went to the auto parts store today and bought a roll of every kind of
tape they had and I will start on the Bottom of the elevator this time and
see if I get any bleed thru ..and keep going untill I find the right tape.
One thing I will say...it sure came off easy with MEK thinner and a little
65-75 reducer mixed in. 1st thought i might get away with trying to rub off
the bad stuff...but it dissolves so fast I was down to the fabric before i
knew it! Didnt take near as long to rub it off as it did to mask it and put
on all those coats.
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron and flap setup |
woody wrote:
>
>
> >
> >Woody of the South (Cananada)/Gang:
>
> Cananada?
>
> >]
> >I never really thought why it does what it does
> >until now. All I know is that ailerons/flaps are
> >pushed down and not up while in flight.
>
> Gotta see this one to belive it. Gonna have to make a wing model and
> test it in a wind tunnel Anyone out there have an old model airplane wing
> they can stick out a car window and see if John or I am right.
>
> >Woody, one of the reasons I initially flew my Mark
> >III from the right seat. I knew the factory MK
> >III had a terrible tendancy to roll left when
> >flown solo from the left seat. Used to have to
> >put my right knee up against the stick to take
> >some of the load off my right arm when flying
> >other than local play time.
>
> So perhaps my left turn is the nature of the beast idea is not total
> B.S. Even the company plane had the tendancy. I am sure they rigged it right.
>
> >Not gonna hold it against ya this time. :-)
> >
> >john h
>
> Not gonna hold it against ya this time :-) :-)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron and flap setup |
> Gotta see this one to belive it. Gonna have to make a wing model and
> test it in a wind tunnel Anyone out there have an old model airplane wing
> they can stick out a car window and see if John or I am right.
Woody/Gents:
If you had been paying attention when you flew in
Miss P'fer, you would have noticed they are
depressed in flight. If you weren't, go fly your
MK III, never mind, you have a different
wing.........
Guess I'm going to have to get a witness to prove
my point to the Southerner from Canada.
> So perhaps my left turn is the nature of the beast idea is not total
> B.S. Even the company plane had the tendancy. I am sure they rigged it right.
Don't hold your breath on this one. One year at
Sun and Fun, I got in the newly overhauled factory
MK III. Started my taxi roll and something did
not feel right. Most MK III owners and builders
know the rudder cables are supposed to be crossed
in the tailboom. If they aren't, when the right
pedal is pushed the airplane turns left and vice
versa. :-) Whoever reinstalled the rudder cables
in Pennsylvania forgot to do that. So everything
the "company" does is not done right.
As far as left turns for MK IIIs and Extras, solo
left seat. I'll have to retract my BS accusation
and say Woody is correct. But not in all cases.
Mine has a tendancy to roll right, occassionally.
Since I don't know when it will decide to do this,
I installed a simple bungee forced trim system
that is adjustable from 0 to whatever is required.
If I am a good boy and do good work tomorrow, and
the weather does not turn to crap, I am going to
commit aviation. :-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary robert voigt" <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | COLOR AND STRIPING IDEAS!!! |
Ok guys, as long as we are on this paint thing i have got a couple
of questions... i'm going to paint it cub yellow and would like some
paint scheme ideas for a novice painter. i have taken pics of my plane
and then with photosuite drawn in some colors and stripes on the pc but
it just looks average... did most of you steal other ideas or did you
come up with your own or did you get them out of a model magazine. i
want my plane to be a head turner and will spend a week taping if i have
too.
thanks in advance,
Gary r. voigt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
While this site isn't really connected with ULs, it does have a huge
amount of data on a wide range of aircraft.
http:www.aerofiles.com
Bob N.
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: UL: aircraft info |
ah mada misteak!!
the correct URL for areofiles:
http://www.aerofiles.com
mea cuppa overflewith
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: COLOR AND STRIPING IDEAS!!! |
Gary,
Make a bunch of photo copies of the top and side view drawings from your
construction manuals. Than go at it with colored pencils or markers until
you come up with a winner.
I must have drawn twenty different schemes before I hit the one I used.
Denny Rowe
Mk-3, PA
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary robert voigt <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: COLOR AND STRIPING IDEAS!!!
>
> Ok guys, as long as we are on this paint thing i have got a couple
> of questions... i'm going to paint it cub yellow and would like some
> paint scheme ideas for a novice painter. i have taken pics of my plane
> and then with photosuite drawn in some colors and stripes on the pc but
> it just looks average... did most of you steal other ideas or did you
> come up with your own or did you get them out of a model magazine. i
> want my plane to be a head turner and will spend a week taping if i have
> too.
>
> thanks in advance,
> Gary r. voigt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Auto paint and small repairs |
Can
>I sand the auto paint down enough without damaging the fabric that I want
>the patch to stick to? Will it still stick good enough if it proved
>impossible to completely sand away ALL of the auto paint in the area?
> Gentlemen, this is why the poly system paints should be used.
I use an auto paint based system (4 Kolbs now). For patches I have
sanded the area and stuck the patch on with contact cement and then
painted. It looks okay to me but they can be seen when pointed out. A bit
more effort on my part would have made them practically invisible.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: COLOR AND STRIPING IDEAS!!! |
]
] Go in the archives and find a picture of my Thunderbird. It is a simple
straight line paint scheme that attracts a lot of attention.
>
>
> Ok guys, as long as we are on this paint thing i have got a couple
>of questions... i'm going to paint it cub yellow and would like some
>paint scheme ideas for a novice painter. i have taken pics of my plane
>and then with photosuite drawn in some colors and stripes on the pc but
>it just looks average... did most of you steal other ideas or did you
>come up with your own or did you get them out of a model magazine. i
>want my plane to be a head turner and will spend a week taping if i have
>too.
>
> thanks in advance,
> Gary r. voigt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Aerothane and Polytone |
In a message dated 05/03/2003 9:25:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
donghe@one-eleven.net writes:
> Disaster....virtually every edge bled across under the tape feathering out
> into the white....
IAfter carefully pressing the tape down, shoot a light coat of the existing
base color. This will effectively seal the tape and then your next color
will not bleed under.
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar
Audubon NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | " Joel Reed" <jfreed(at)dejazzd.com> |
| Subject: | Firestar for sale |
Hello I have decided to sell my 84 Firestar and get a two seater Kolb of some
kind.
1984 Kolb Firestar
hourmeter incidates 160 hours.
Rotax 377
two blade IVO prop
airspeed incidator
alimeter
dual egt & cht
tach
fuel gauge
BRS (pass repack date)
brakes.
5 gallon fuel tank (also has extra on board 5 gallons for 10 gallon combined,
easliy removed to make it FAR 103 legal.)
The plane is in good overall shape, it still runs strong. Flies, runs, and
performs great. It would not pass a beauty contest but it would make someone
a great beginner plane. I fly it at least once a week. I have it posted on
Barnstormers. asking $5500.00 or best offer. Located in south east Pennsylvania.
Happy flying
Joel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)inebraska.com> |
| Subject: | COLOR AND STRIPING IDEAS!!! |
It's not a Kolb, but I went through the same thing right up to the day
the
plane went into the paint shop last week. See
http://www.ultrafunairsports.com/titanpaint.htm for some of my crazy paint
ideas.
No, I didn't design them. Most of them are actually custom paint jobs
on
Harley tanks. If you look closely, you can see the filler neck on some. I
used Photoshop and cut out the insides of a Titan line drawing. I then
pasted the paint job on a layer and moved it behind the line drawing.
J.D. Stewart
UltraFun AirSports
http://www.ultrafunairsports.com
Challenger Owners E-mail list and Website Administrator
http://challenger.inebraska.com
>
>
> Gary,
> Make a bunch of photo copies of the top and side view drawings from your
> construction manuals. Than go at it with colored pencils or markers until
> you come up with a winner.
> I must have drawn twenty different schemes before I hit the one I used.
> Denny Rowe
> Mk-3, PA
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gary robert voigt <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: COLOR AND STRIPING IDEAS!!!
>
>
>
> >
> > Ok guys, as long as we are on this paint thing i have got a couple
> > of questions... i'm going to paint it cub yellow and would like some
> > paint scheme ideas for a novice painter. i have taken pics of my plane
> > and then with photosuite drawn in some colors and stripes on the pc but
> > it just looks average... did most of you steal other ideas or did you
> > come up with your own or did you get them out of a model magazine. i
> > want my plane to be a head turner and will spend a week taping if i have
> > too.
> >
> > thanks in advance,
> > Gary r. voigt
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | intercom for Kolb |
Help,
I have been using a sigtronics transcom II portable intercom since 1997 in my
Mk 3 and have had it repaired three times. If any has an intercom (portable)
that he likes and is reasonable , please give me a recommendation.
Tom Guidroz MKIII 259 Houma La.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: COLOR AND STRIPING IDEAS!!! |
Hi Gary,
Follow-up clarification on the squares from my last email:
Cut out a bunch of squares from some kind of masking paper. Make these
a little smaller than the actual square size. You can use cheaper
regular masking tape to tape these paper squares on top of the
perimeter tape above. Now all of what will be the yellow squares is
masked off with paper in the middle and good edge tape along the edges.
Before painting, run your fingernail around the
The regular masking tape edges should be back just a little from the
outside edge of the good quality tape edges.
BTW, I also used this tape to do the star and the stripes along the
side of my plane. I also blended paint on the stripes so that they
start out metallic silver next to the star and gradually change to full
dark blue (no silver) by the back of the stripes. I just added a
little more blue to the touch up gun's paint pot till near the back
when I made sure it was only blue. This pic,
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/ransom/BensAlbum/1997/cows1.html and
unfortunately this one
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/ransom/BensAlbum/jun99/spring99g.html show this
part of my paint scheme. I will repeat it on the rebuild paint job as
it will bring back my plane as the friend I remember it to be. :)
-Ben
--- Gary robert voigt wrote:
>
>
> Ok guys, as long as we are on this paint thing i have got a
> couple
> of questions... i'm going to paint it cub yellow and would like some
> paint scheme ideas for a novice painter. i have taken pics of my
> plane
> and then with photosuite drawn in some colors and stripes on the pc
> but
> it just looks average... did most of you steal other ideas or did you
> come up with your own or did you get them out of a model magazine. i
> want my plane to be a head turner and will spend a week taping if i
> have
> too.
>
> thanks in advance,
> Gary r. voigt
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
__________________________________
http://search.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | One more time... |
| From: | "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
05/06/2003 12:43:12 PM
Here's the complete description as promised, for the guys who responded
asking for more information. This engine is in perfect shape and is going
to make someone a real nice deal. Photos are available by direct E-mail,
if desired, for serious shoppers.
For Sale for some lucky Kolb builder...
-1997 Rotax 582 Liquid cooled, Dual Carb, Dual Ignition , 170 hrs TT
-Rotax Oil Injection system (Injection system presently removed and stored
but is complete and in working order)
-Rotax oil injection tank with low oil sender and head-mounting bracket set
-Rotax side mount exhaust with Kolb Co. shock-mount brackets, no rust,
rubber isolators replaced a year ago
-Exhaust has High Performance Coatings chrome finish with lifetime recoat
warrantee ($140 retail, beautiful chrome-like)
-New exhaust springs this season
-Rotax dual radiator setup with thermostat, all shock mounted brackets
-Rotax radiator cap modified to produce a 7 psi working system
-Coolant pressure gauge, stainless, liquid-filled
-Coolant expansion tank, 8 oz, ignition plate mounted like RV oil tank
-High Altitude Compensating (HAC)Bing carbs with very slick custom made HAC
diaphragm mounting bracket with shock mount
-Rotax (K&N) dual oval gauze air filter, 2 years old
-NEW fuel pump this Spring
-Extra carb jets and spark plugs
-Rotax tool kit included
-Rotax owners manual
-Rotax Installation manual
-Rotax Service manual
-HAC calibration paperwork.
I am original owner, engine has 170 hrs TT, all stock Rotax, top-end
decarboned on regular intervals (2nd one 7 hours ago),
perfect condition, runs great, presently flying as a pusher on a Kolb,
will continue to fly until sold.
I am going BMW 4-stroke. NO GEARBOX , I wish to keep the gearbox.
All listed above for first $2750 (that's less than 1/2 of LEAF prices).
I have original shipping crate and will package, buyer pays actual shipping
costs.
Add 170 hrs TT Rotax "C" box w/2.62:1 ratio, perfect condition $800
Add Powerfin "A" 3 blade 66" composite prop, very good condition $300
This combination of 582, C box 2.62:1, and 66" 3-blade Powerfin pushes my
MKiii at 93 mph WOT level flight. Prop is of course ground adjustable and
I can provide setup data. Prop bolt heads are drilled for safety wire.
Jim Gerken
507-253-2454 days
507-753-2619 evenings
Rochester Minnesota
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Allman" <fisherallman(at)earthlink.net> |
Chuck,
I use a Headsets Inc. kit but I'm not sure of the model.
At any rate, I've been very, very, pleased with the performance.
Joe
ss 582
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chuck Davis -
Comcast
Subject: Kolb-List: ANR Headsets
Any one have experiance with Headsets, Inc's M-01 ANR inset kits?
Thanks
Chuck Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Allman" <fisherallman(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | intercom for Kolb |
Aside from the frequent repairs- did the squelch/voice activation work in
your Kolb.
I have one someone gave me on the cheap and I wondering if it's worth
messing with.
Thanks,
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of AULSU(at)aol.com
Subject: Kolb-List: intercom for Kolb
Help,
I have been using a sigtronics transcom II portable intercom since 1997 in
my
Mk 3 and have had it repaired three times. If any has an intercom
(portable)
that he likes and is reasonable , please give me a recommendation.
Tom Guidroz MKIII 259 Houma La.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duncan McBride <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: intercom for Kolb |
I have a Sigtronics Transcom I bought in 1985 and used for instrument
training - at the time few planes were equipped with intercoms and I used
the audio out to tape the dual instruction - it was a good way to review the
flight and radio work. Anyway, I hadn't used it in ten years or more and
when I hooked it up in the Kolb, the squelch knob was a little loose and I
couldn't get it to squelch in the Kolb cockpit. I sent it back to
Sigtronics and ordered the high noise version upgrade at the same time - $20
for the upgrade and $7 to fix the squelch pot and $5 shipping. It works
great now - with the 912 at 5000 rpm and the squelch about half way the vox
works perfectly. Sure can't complain about the service. I'm sorry to hear
yours needed frequent repair. I guess mine had about 60 hours on it and ten
or twelve years on the shelf before it had a problem. Not so bad.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Allman" <fisherallman(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: intercom for Kolb
>
> Aside from the frequent repairs- did the squelch/voice activation work in
> your Kolb.
>
> I have one someone gave me on the cheap and I wondering if it's worth
> messing with.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of AULSU(at)aol.com
> To: kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: intercom for Kolb
>
>
> Help,
> I have been using a sigtronics transcom II portable intercom since 1997 in
> my
> Mk 3 and have had it repaired three times. If any has an intercom
> (portable)
> that he likes and is reasonable , please give me a recommendation.
>
> Tom Guidroz MKIII 259 Houma La.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: intercom for Kolb |
It works
> great now - with the 912 at 5000 rpm and the squelch about half way the vox
> works perfectly.
Joe/Duncan/Gang:
I have been using a Sigtronics SPA400 since the MK
III was built, 11 years. A couple years ago got
it updated to a SPA400N for high noise
environment. Works good. No problems.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: intercom for Kolb |
I just bought the sig. spo20 hn. It has a feature that you can plug in a
cd player for those long trips. I have found that the music is a bit low to
enjoy, but the intercom is just great. It has a sidetone that allows you to
hear yourself when you are talking to the tower. That means a lot to me. I
never could get over not hearing myself talk. The Mark III that I just
bought had a intercom of some GA type that was just terrible, you couldn't
hear each other at more than 4800 rpm's. I plugged in the sigtronics and the
relief was immediate.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aileron and flap setup |
| From: | Gene Ledbetter <gdledbetter1(at)fuse.net> |
> The bottom fabric on my Firefly also has the fabric pushed up into a
> concave shape...
Gene Ledbetter
Firefly 185 hrs
Cincinnati
> I'll let you check out the tauntness of the fabric
> on the bottom of my wings when I get to Monument
> Valley. I have never flown a Kolb that did not
> push the fabric up into a concave shape. When in
> flight, and I heat shrink all my fabric to the
> max, the bottom fabric will depress. If it
> depresses it is concave.
>
> Hard wing cover is the only way to get a flat
> bottom wing.
>
> john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Transition Training |
Kolb Friends -
I spent 2 days at TNK in London, KY last week to get some transition
training in their new Mark-3 Extra, and I just wanted to pass along my
experience.
The main thing I went away with (besides learning how to land a Kolb without
breaking something) is: Those are some great folks, and I'm happy to own an
airplane that is associated with a company like New Kolb!
I met the owner, Bruce Chesnut, and their two test/demo pilots, Norm
Labhardt and Brian Milburn. I received instruction on two different days
from both Norm and Brian in the new Mark-3 that they showed at Sun-n-Fun.
Got to speak with Ray Brown for quite a while as he showed me thru the
factory, and I also met Linda. All terrific, friendly people who are
obviously dedicated to their cusomers and their products. And, I saw the
fantastic Americana Firefly that won Best Ultralight at Sun-n-Fun - what
amazing piece of artwork! (Brian said more than 250 manhours of work went
into that paint job!)
I recommend a trip to TNK to any new Kolb pilot (like me) needing transition
trianing. I'tll be worth your effort, and you'll go home with the
confidence that your airplane kit was created by a caring, professional team
of folks. I'm looking forward to returning there for the Kolb Fly-In at the
end of September.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, s/n 300, Verner-powered in
New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Portable intercom Sigtronics Transcom II |
HI Gang,
Thanks for the input on the sig. intercom. When it worked it was great, but
had it repaired locally. I never thought to send it back to the factory for
up date and repair. I will give that a try. Thanks again for the
recommendations.
Tom Guidroz Houma La. Kolb MKIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | woody <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: COLOR AND STRIPING IDEAS!!! |
>
>
>]
>] Go in the archives and find a picture of my Thunderbird. It is a simple
>straight line paint scheme that attracts a lot of attention.
I meant go to the photo share and look for my flying totem pole
"THUNDERBIRD"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Fly-In at Winchester VA |
EAA ch 186 will have their Spring Fly-In at Winchester (VA) Regional
Airport (OKV)Saturday & Sunday May 17,18.
No FAA tower, just friendly folks welcoming anything that flies,
including ULs (fat, thin, reg'ler). EAA judging.
Pancake breakfast both days, soda &hamburg stand right on ramp. 100LL
available, if a fellow ULer needs
Mogas I can take cans to nearby gas station (2 mi). Five motels within
2-3 miles, at least five more a coupla miles further. Tie downs
available--bring rope if all used up here.
Here are the radio freqs:
CTAF/UNICOM 122.7 APPR/DEP 120.45 CLRNC DEL 126.15 WX AWOS-3 124.85
Contact me for any questions.
Y'all come, heah?
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fly-In at Winchester VA |
yes, John--blame it on the E'n AA! But seriously, the chapter is a good
one, and doesn't look down their noses at ULs.
Bob N. non-member, but jes tryin to git along with my fellow flyers.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fly-In at Winchester VA |
Had a great time at this last year for the fall flyin, took grand champion in
my Firestar 2 in the ultralight class. Plan to attend again this year, on
Saturday, I work on Sundays. Is anyone else planning to attend???? Be nice to
meet fellow Kolbers.
Tim in Herndon, VA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training |
Dennis....that sounds great, as I sure know how hospitable they are down
there in London. One question...how many hours and how much do they charge ?
I need some dual also....
BTW men....just unmasked my elevators ( for the second time)....this time I
did 2 things different...I hit the edges of the tapes with the base color
...let it dry 30 or 40 min....then sprayed the stripes. Other thing was I
used the green 3-M tape this time.....NO BLEEDING!!!...WAHOOOO!.. Dont know
if one the other remedy did it, but i will continue the same
way....now....on the the rest!
Thanks a million for all the help!
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chuck Davis - Comcast <davis207(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | ANR Headsets & Seatbelts |
Thanks for the many useful replies! The list once again prove's it use.
Now, if the weather in central Jersey would only improve...Bill Varnes has
promised to meet me 1/2 way for a $50 hamburger (These savings proving once
again the economy of owning a Kolb) :)
April 19, 2003 - May 08, 2003
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-eh