Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-en
September 30, 2003 - October 19, 2003
4) Spark arrestors on old Titan 912 exhaust systems are not a good thing.
5) 912's produce plenty of DC voltage if they are working right.
6) How to land in a lot of gusting wind - even if it is a couple of times.
Coming back Sunday and Monday expanded my wind threshold. It was a blowing
and gusting. Gave us good ground speed Monday.
7) Middle of the day mountain flying is not dull.
8) Wal-Mart bags make excellent galoshers and are super lightweight -
courtesy of Steven Green.
9) Tools and toilet paper are good things to have.
10) Learned about formation flying. It is not as hard as the Blue Angels
make it out to be. Especially learned that you have to quite concentrating on
the guy in front of you when it is time to land. Did anybody get any pictures?
11) There are some beautiful places in this country and seeing them from the
seat of a Kolb is a special thing.
Just my trip stats.
Total miles - 1892 NM / 2177 SM
Flight time - 33.1 hours
Average speed - 57 knots / 65.6 MPH
Thanks to TNK for all their work and help at the fly-in.
It was a pleasure meeting a lot of the faces that go with the names on the
list.
This was a great experience.
John Bickham
St. Francisville, LA
Mark III - 912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Understanding |
Hmmm..............guess there's no better memories out there in
Kolb-Land.............or maybe I'm being ignored, too......??
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Understanding
>
> Guess my name isn't John, but I sure do remember Ron's concerns with his
> controls. As I recall, it had something to do with component interference
> at full travel. Anyone out there with a better memory ??
Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> www.gogittum.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jerb" <ulflyer(at)verizon.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Understanding
>
>
> >
> > John H,
> > What do your know about any change being in the FireStar control design
by
> > Kolb. Is this true. Has Kolb made any change since and as a result of
> > Ron's input?
> > jerb
> >
> >
> > >
> > >I don't post much on this list anymore but I felt that I had to say
> > >something. I understand Mikes frustration in his posts. I used to
post
> my
> > >opinion on things that I thought would be of interest to Kolb builders.
> > >After finding what I thought was a flaw in the control design of the
new
> > >FireStar and FireStar and could not get any one in Kolb to discuss it
> with
> > >me, I posted my concerns to this list. Many of you may remember this
> > >subject. I was then threatened with legal action by Kolb as they said
I
> > >was guilty of slander so I shut up. They since have changed their
> controls
> > >to my design. Also after expressing an honest opinion different from
the
> > >resident guru of the list, and I am sure you know who this is, I was
> > >threatened with physical violence. My opinion may also not be judged
as
> > >appropriate for the list but so be it. These are the things that kill
> what
> > >started off as a good thing for all.
> > >
> > >Ron Payne
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Understanding |
> Hmmm..............guess there's no better memories out there in
> Kolb-Land.............or maybe I'm being ignored, too......??
>
> Larry Bourne
Larry/Gang:
Uh oh!
Now Larry's got his feelings hurt. Don't know what I am
going to do with all the thin skinned varmits on the List.
Guess I better get out there and find the List Guru for some
guidance.
Was sorry to hear that Ron Payne, the resident lurker, had
been threatened with physical violence because he had
disagreed with the resident Guru's ideas. Soon as we find
out what a Guru is, maybe we can find out who the varmit is
and where he hangs out. Sorry I do not remember anyone
getting threatened with physical violence since I have been
on the List, even though I have sometimes felt like it.
Only kidding gang. :-) Emailing can be a difficult way to
communicate at times.
I got no response from the List when I asked the question:
Has anyone heard of any accidents/incidents involving newer
Firestars and control interference?
I guess if someone wanted to go back into the archives, they
could pull up all the info on Ron's problem.
I think what turned off most folks to his problem was the
way he went about solving it, i.e., going to the FAA with
something that was not going to be solved by them and only
muddied the water. Maybe he could have approached the good
folks at Kolb in a slightly different manner too.
Again, folks, this is only john h's personal opinion.
Hopefully, folks won't get their feelings hurt and try to
strangle me or something like that. If they do, they will
have to come up to the GA, NC, TN, KY, and VA mountains to
find me. I am loading up the Suzuki DRZ400E dirt bike,
Nell's and my mountain bikes, hooking up the 5th wheel, and
heading for the mountains on the east side of the country.
Nell is not ready to do he big ones out west so soon after
her stroke on the way to Alaska last year.
Ya'll take care, play fair now, and love one another,
john h
PS: Waiting for all the lurkers out there to pounce on me
when given the chance. :-) I love pouncing!!! hehehe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
Just a word of caution. The people that designed your airplane had in mind
strengths and weakness for everything in that plane. Be sure that when you
make a change that you don't make that plane unsafe. I am not a aeronautical
or structural engineer so I try to not fix things that aren't broken. There
are many documented cases were people beefed up a aircraft to make it safer
and caused problems by transferring a load to a weaker part. I for example
safety wired a thumb screw that holds the top of my air cleaners on which
was good but I wrapped the other end of the safety wire around a handy brass
fuel fitting. After app. 50 hours of flight I removed the safety wire for
maintenance and found that it was rubbing a groove thru the fuel line
fitting. Another 50 hours and I would have been spraying fuel all over a hot
engine and I wouldn't have known it was happening till?
Be careful.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: no chrome
>
> Kolbers,
> On the way back from the fly in and after many nudging me forward on the
HD
> engine project, my wheels were turning thinking of this becoming a
reality.
> Thinking or color schemes and a real performer, black and Harley orange
> comes to mind. The parts I would like to have chrome plated would be the
> tail post steel part, the aileron end's, the control rod's,,, basically
all
> steel parts that would be normally painted with the exception of the
> fuselage and maybe even it. After reading the post for over a year and
> viewing many photos of builders I'm wanting to clean up the surfaces
around
> the tail. Like instead of rivet's to attach the tail post to the boom
tube,
> why not counter sunk stainless screws.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ian Heritch" <iheritch(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Warning - Old 912 Titan Exhaust with Spark Arrestor! |
What's the spark arrestor look like?
Ian Heritch
San Antonio, Tx.
Slingshot 912
----- Original Message -----
From: <BICUM(at)aol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Warning - Old 912 Titan Exhaust with Spark Arrestor!
>
> Just in case I'm not the only one that didn't know this..................
>
> If you have the old style titan exhaust for the 912 that has the spark
> arrestor on it you may want to consider replacing it. Mine let loose at
around 205
> hours and went through the prop. I was super lucky that the damage to the
> prop was minimal and there was no damage to the airframe or fabric
surfaces.
>
> It was safety wired as a precaution and all that was left was the stud
that
> holds it in place. It appears that the little shoulder in the stud and
the
> hole it sits in had worn due to vibration just enough to just let go. It
was
> fine prior to takeoff. It is part my pre-flight to give the exhaust
system a tug
> and check for looseness.
>
> If this applies to you please take notice and replace. This could have
been
> a horrible outcome. I was just lucky and had some guardian angels with
me.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John Bickham
> St. Francisville, LA
> Mark III - 912
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Warning - Old 912 Titan Exhaust with Spark Arrestor! |
Ian/Gang:
It was a Super Trap Silencer, made up of numerous washers
and wafers with cap and bolt/nut security. One end of bolt
was "Z'd" and semi-secured in a cross piece inside the
outlet of the stinger on the early Titan Exhaust System.
I had one initially, but elected to ship it back and get the
one I have now with a standard type silencer.
John B was extremely lucky to survive the failure. Still do
not understand how all those pieces were launched from the
three IVO prop blades without hitting and damaging some part
of the aircraft.
I immediately nicknamed John B the "Miracle Man".
john h
Ian Heritch wrote:
> What's the spark arrestor look like?
>
> Ian Heritch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
Paul Petty wrote:
<< I'm wanting to clean up the surfaces around
the tail. Like instead of rivet's to attach the tail post to the boom tube,
why not counter sunk stainless screws.>>
Paul, and other intrepid Experimenters -
I would think twice about countersinking rivets at the tail ring. You would
be removing quite a bit of aluminum boom material to make the countersink
dimples. It's possible that Homer intended the full thickness of the boom
tube wall was necessary to withstand the shear forces imparted from those 24
(or so) rivets holding the tailring in place. You may unknowingly weaken
this structurally crucial area.
Stainless machine-head (domed) screws might look nice...
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3
New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re:chroming parts |
Got me curious.
Found some links on the subject, all are short.
General info on hydrogen embrittlement.
http://www.finishing.com/1800-1999/1943.html
More & similar.
http://www.nmfrc.org/crarchive/feb02a.cfm
This one is especially pertinent to aircraft -
http://www.vmplating.com/vm_plating.htm
This one is NHRA official position on chroming highly stressed parts.
http://www.vmplating.com/vm_plating.htm
And this one is a bunch of plating engineers arguing about it, good stuff.
http://www.eng-tips.com/gpviewthread.cfm/qid/64502/pid/2/lev2/3/lev3/29
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Dennis,
>I am assuming that because the company I have used for years told me they
>can no longer plate aircraft parts. Said the FAA came to them and told them
>they must stop plating any aircraft parts. They may just be blowing smoke to
>get rid of me...
>
>pp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | control interferences |
> earlier subject: control interferences, I haven't hit the archives on it
> yet but I do have
> a contact between my right aileron horn and the flap rod, not within normal
> operating range but still doesn't look right. -BB
BB/Gang:
How'd you do that?
You are talking about the flap push/pull tube on the flap horn?
On a MK III?
First time I have heard of that problem.
When does it hit? pitch mode? roll mode? or both?
I'll have to take a look at mine and see how much clearance
I have.
I changed the subject to reflect "control interferences".
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tim WARLICK" <tawarlick(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | HVLP paint sprayer |
Learned a lot at the factory fly-in last weekend. Saw many good ideas on various
airplanes and attended the fabric covering workshop. Brought back my fabric
kit and am now ready to start covering my Mark 3. Any suggestions on how to find
a low cost HVLP paint sprayer? Does anyone have one they want to sell?
Tim
Kolb Mark 3
Mobile, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ron wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HVLP paint sprayer |
just my opinion, but get a hvlp gravity feed from harbor frt. keep it clean
it will work just fine.I use one in business, I build cabinets,furniture,
and an occasional house or two.
----- Original Message -----
From: "tim WARLICK" <tawarlick(at)msn.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: HVLP paint sprayer
>
> Learned a lot at the factory fly-in last weekend. Saw many good ideas on
various airplanes and attended the fabric covering workshop. Brought back my
fabric kit and am now ready to start covering my Mark 3. Any suggestions on
how to find a low cost HVLP paint sprayer? Does anyone have one they want to
sell?
>
> Tim
> Kolb Mark 3
> Mobile, Alabama
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: control interferences |
John, come daylight I'll get some details......nothing is bent anywhere
but one side hits
and the udder doesn't. Reason I noticed is when I park it back in the
shed the right
side controls sit on a pile of crap (ask Lar :) ) and they sit in the
"up" position.
Took some measurements for my version of the upper center section. Most
likely
cut a template out of cardboard or scrap laminate. Might help lift a
bit if there isn't
so much air slipping through the gaps. -bout ready to hook it to the old
Massey-Harris
and tow it back to the dungeon. Looking and feeling wintry here already. -BB
John Hauck wrote:
>
>
>
>
>>earlier subject: control interferences, I haven't hit the archives on it
>>yet but I do have
>>a contact between my right aileron horn and the flap rod, not within normal
>>operating range but still doesn't look right. -BB
>>
>>
>
>BB/Gang:
>
>How'd you do that?
>
>You are talking about the flap push/pull tube on the flap horn?
>
>On a MK III?
>
>First time I have heard of that problem.
>
>When does it hit? pitch mode? roll mode? or both?
>
>I'll have to take a look at mine and see how much clearance
>I have.
>
>I changed the subject to reflect "control interferences".
>
>john h
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David & Maria Lumgair" <dlummy(at)visi.net> |
| Subject: | Ultrastar Gear collapsed -HELP |
Well list
- after a thorough inspection the ultrastar set out for the stars today after
a number of crow hops and excellent results my buddy took to the skies - I
am proud to report that the engine ran flawlessly (that was my department)...
After about 10 minutes of flight he came in for landing - looked really good
but the left gear leg collapsed on rollout. LUCKILY the gear was the only damage
- the main tube bent right in the middle (collapsed inward) and the wheel
folded. Nobody hurt - not even a scratch. The cross brace and the forward "strut"
were also tweaked - The only thing I can figure is that it has been going
for a while and finally gave - the landing wasn't a greaser but it was pretty
smooth - I've seen much worse and the gear didn't budge on other Kolbs. He
didn't even bounce it..
NOW FOR MY PROBLEM - Since "The New Kolb" didn't buy rights to the ultrastar where
do we get parts? Does anyone on the list know about the spring aluminum gear
mod? Or even know the specs for the tubing to build the original gear again
and where to get it? Help - that thing looks like a blast! And even with
the collapse my buddy is still grinning.....
Thank you - Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | george murphy <geomurphy(at)direcway.com> |
Stan, I appreciate the info on Bills' return was starting to think Bill had
just turned invisible. I drove to the Kolb Fly-In to get some parts for the
Ole Firestar and to steal their best Ideas. The new Kolbs have sure changed
a lot. I met up with John Hauck and he told me a few things to change about
the wing bracing and a few other good ideas so I got me a bunch of tubes and
rivets to start with. I finally got all the fabric and related stuff to
start recovering as soon as I find time to do the other repairs to the
wings. It was tooooo windy, cloudy and rainy for most sane pilots to show
up at the Fly-In, so the crowd was sorta small. I will give Bill a call and
ship him the tail wires so he can make me up a new set. Hope to have this
thing flyable and may be able to meet up with you guys. I saw your new seat
on the Kolb list, it looks sharp. --- I want to make the Ole Firestar a bit
wider and give it a new nose. I thought about using one of those Kolbra
nose cones and building the cage to match up with it. Got any ideas on
nose-jobs?
See ya, George
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of possums
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: old firestar
Bill's back in town now. He's been gone for about 10 days.
He has a swaging tool "press" now and can make his own wires.
They are using stainless now instead of galvanized wire.
Neal will be back on Thursday. You should just bring your wires
sometime and make new ones. Bill said give him a call if you
need any other parts - I would call Neal on Thursday.
Stan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Guy Morgan" <morganguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wanna-be new Kolber |
Howdy folks. I'm currently taking lessons (I'm on #7) in a Challenger II in Angleton,
TX. I've been looking at planes for a while and I've decided to go with
a Kolb Mk II or Mk III (used.) Is a Kolb a good choice for a new pilot? I've
read some posts here stating that Kolbs are, how do I put it, a little more unforgiving
than some other designs. On the other hand, I've read lots of good things
about Kolbs too, such as climb rate, folding wings, etc. One last concern;
how difficult is it to transition from tricycle gear to a tail dragger, me
being a newbie and all? I am not new to aviation. I was an AT in the Navy for
7 years and have been working as an AP and avionics tech for a helicopter company
here in Galveston for the last 4 1/2 years. I went for an intro flight a couple
of months ago and instantly became obsessed with U/L's. Thanks for any input.
Guy Morgan
--Eat one live toad first thing in the morning and nothing worse will happen to
you the rest of the day.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> Well folks I finished the other horz. stab. last night
> and proudly hung them on the wall to admire.
> I'm already getting pretty good at drilling out rivets
> and redo.
>
> pp
pp/All:
Hang in there.
Might be a good idea to fill all those "uh oh" holes with
rivets, unless they are in a position to displace/disrupt
proper fit of other tubing and gussets.
Heading for the hills this afternoon,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: control interference (cont.) |
> After another look, when in full right stick deflection the aileron
> crank arm does contact
> the flap rod. -flaps in full up position. -BB
Bob/All:
Get in the aircraft, if you haven't already tried this, move
the stick full right with your leg now in the way, and have
someone check to see if you still have interference.
Usually, full travel while not in the seat does not equal
full travel while seated.
However, I don't know if you have a center stick or dual
controls in your MK III. That would also have a bearing on
the problem.
Take care,
john h
PS: Discussion of this nature should probably be archived
for future reference.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: control interferences |
BB wrote:
<< earlier subject: control interferences, I haven't hit the archives on it
yet but I do have a contact between my right aileron horn and the flap rod,
not within normal operating range but still doesn't look right. -BB >>
then John Hauck wrote:
<>
John, BB, and Kolbers -
On my 1997 Mark-3 Classic, I'm also experiencing the aileron control
horn/flap rod interference that Bob Bean describes. Happens at full side
stick deflection - the aileron horn contacts the flap push-pull rod. Did
not notice the interference until the airplane was finished. Built exactly
to plans - no mods here. It appears that if I would slam the control stick
to the side hard enough, the two intefering parts could bind up on each
other, causing a control lockup. That would be bad. I hope I should not
have to make such extreme control movements in normal flight, but ... one
never knows. I've not yet come up with a fix.
Anybody else seen this on their Mark-3s?
Dennis Kirby
Verner, Powerfin-72 in
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Costco/priceclub has a kinda neat little box for $49.95.
Has an electonic compass, thermometer, barometer, and altimeter, push button-selectable
Good sized LCD, runs from internal batts, or from cig lighter (12v) with
cable included.
Be the first on yer field/strip/patch to have one.
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanna-be new Kolber |
a little more unforgiving than some other designs.
??? I don't know what you are talking about. The Kolbs do what you tell
them.
One last concern; how difficult is it to transition from tricycle gear to a
tail dragger, me being a newbie and all?
Being a tail dragger is almost a non issue. Your tail wheel will be up in
under 50 ft and 20 Mph or less. Not a lot of time to have something go
wrong. You are probbably used to balancing the challenger on its mains
before flying and this is no different. ( In my humble opinion)
Good luck in your research on Kolbs. I am sure you will be happy owning
one of these fine machines.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 8JB Making Volts - Getting ready for next time |
For all those that helped with my voltage regulator problem..............
It is officially fixed. The 912 is making 14 volts like it is supposed to.
I went out to the airport today and dug in.
Pulled the instrument panel and checked everything back there. All OK.
Increased the wire gauge on yellow leads from generator to the regulator from
18 to 14 gauge.
Stuck a little roll of sandpaper behind flywheel and turned the engine over
by hand a few times. Kinda had a bit of corrosion on magnets.
That is all I did. Cranked the thing and it put out 14 volts right away.
Doesn't even drift with the strobes on. Not sure if it was the wire gauge or
the light cleaning of the magnets. Don't care, it works.
No more battery problems.............
I'll be ready to run with da big dogs again!
Thanks & be careful,
John Bickham
St. Francisville, LA
Kolb Mark III Classic - 912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
EAA ch 186 will hold their Fall Fly-In at Winchester (VA) Regional
Airport (OKV) Oct 4&5
N39-08.61 W078.08.66
Pancake Breakfast rain or shine 8-11AM.
Aircraft judging, Fly-market, Demos, Kids' activities, C-54 static display.
www.eaa186.org or eaa186@yahoo. com
AWOS 124.85 Unicom 122.7 Ground 121.75
Both Winchester and EAA186 are very UL-friendly
When I'm not busy answering damnfool questions (zat thang fly?) or
selling my books, I can haul mogas.
Look for the white FireFly with red LEs.
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
Kolbers,
I noticed that Jim W. covered the inside of the cage of his kolbra. If I didn't
go this route, how do you paint the back side of the fabric? Is it smooth enough
for a paint finish?
pp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: instruments? |
Don,
It's right in the store abt 2/3 way to meat sect-past the print carts.
etc--if all stores are alike(?) May not be in their web cat. yet, or
maybe just the Winchester VA store? I'll ask them tomorrow. Can try for
a quick photo???
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: control interferences |
In a message dated 10/1/03 5:30:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil writes:
> Anybody else seen this on their Mark-3s?
>
Yes.
I put stops on the rear of the aileron torque tube to limit the travel.
Steven G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | control interference |
I found some enlightenment (still a heathern though :) ) in an old Kolb
illustration,
copyright dec 1990, page 7, rev 0. Dennis Souder.
It shows a "steel strip on rear cage fairing" - aileron stop, form an L
bracket
from .032" aluminum and rivet to steel strip.
"crank should rotate approx 35 deg each direction - for a total rotation
of 70 deg"
That does some explaining, I'll put a protractor on mine and see what
the travel is
unfettered with stops. Since my plane and few others have that fairing
a good
stop location would have to be figured.
Mr. Pike's hole relocation method would also be a factor if used. -BB, MkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: inside covering |
If you don't cover the inside of the cage, you will find that it makes
wonderful corners for accumulating dirt. Lots of corners, lots of dirt. I
covered most of the inside of my cage, I wish now I'd covered all of it.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Kolbers,
>I noticed that Jim W. covered the inside of the cage of his kolbra. If I
>didn't go this route, how do you paint the back side of the fabric? Is it
>smooth enough for a paint finish?
>
>pp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: old firestar |
I HAVE A 91 FIRESTAR FOR SALE IN MASS. 200 HRS TOTAL TIME IF INTERESTED USE
EMAIL TO CONTACT RECENT COVERING
$5800 BOB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ian Heritch" <iheritch(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: inside covering |
Paul, you should talk to Jim & Dondi Miller about painting the reverse side
of fabric, it should be do-able.
After the cage was fully painted, I glued headliner material onto the
exposed fabric inside the cage. The material was cut to fit inside the
exposed tubes so that when I was finished gluing the steel tubes were
exposed. In my case the white powder coated tubes were a nice contrast to
the navy blue headliner material. This application makes the cockpit look
finished, factory finished. I get many compliments on the look of the
cockpit interior.
The headliner material is light weight, comes in many colors, is
inexpensive, and is available at any auto interior shop or supply house. I
believe I paid under $15 for the material and the 3M spray adhesive. The
job took under two hours, much less than painting would have taken with a
nicer finished look.
Ian Heritch
Slingshot 912
San Antonio, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: inside covering
>
> Kolbers,
> I noticed that Jim W. covered the inside of the cage of his kolbra. If I
didn't go this route, how do you paint the back side of the fabric? Is it
smooth enough for a paint finish?
>
> pp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: inside covering |
That sounds like a goody..............do you think it helps with sound
deadening as well ?? How thick is it ?? Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ian Heritch" <iheritch(at)satx.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: inside covering
>
> Paul, you should talk to Jim & Dondi Miller about painting the reverse
side
> of fabric, it should be do-able.
>
> After the cage was fully painted, I glued headliner material onto the
> exposed fabric inside the cage. The material was cut to fit inside the
> exposed tubes so that when I was finished gluing the steel tubes were
> exposed. In my case the white powder coated tubes were a nice contrast to
> the navy blue headliner material. This application makes the cockpit look
> finished, factory finished. I get many compliments on the look of the
> cockpit interior.
>
> The headliner material is light weight, comes in many colors, is
> inexpensive, and is available at any auto interior shop or supply house.
I
> believe I paid under $15 for the material and the 3M spray adhesive. The
> job took under two hours, much less than painting would have taken with a
> nicer finished look.
>
> Ian Heritch
> Slingshot 912
> San Antonio, Texas
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: inside covering
>
>
> >
> > Kolbers,
> > I noticed that Jim W. covered the inside of the cage of his kolbra. If I
> didn't go this route, how do you paint the back side of the fabric? Is it
> smooth enough for a paint finish?
> >
> > pp
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> Long ago, John H. told of an aid that really works..............cut a V in
> the end of a broken hacksaw blade, and grind the inside of the V to a sharp
> edge.
> Lar.
Lar/All:
You are welcome.
First, don't forget to knock the mandrel out of the rivet
with an old mandrel held with small vise grips. The
hardened steel mandrel is what raises hell with new 1/8"
bits. Once the mandrel is out, all ya gotta cut is that SS.
This will be my last post until Nell and I return from the
Eastern mountains. Be gone til we get back, two, three,
four weeks. Who knows. Probably until the cold chases us
south and home.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com> |
| Subject: | Heat treating 4130 landing gear/ |
Hey guys,
Any one know of a good place to get heat treating done? Or perhaps
someone know the procedure to do it. I have a local shop that has a
digital furnace that is used for stress relieving reground crankshafts
but they do not have the technological specs for how to harden 4130. Can
any one steer me in the right direction please.
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jimmy <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
For those looking for the LCD Compass, altimeter and other things check out item
on E-Bay Item number: 3050451257 . This looks like the item searched
for. Price is $59.00.
Jimmy Hankinson
912-863-7384
Rocky Ford, Ga. 30455
jhankin(at)planters.net
Kolb Firefly/447/240hrs
Local field, Pegasus/2000/Grass
Airport JYL/Sylvania, Ga.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <jon(at)joncroke.com> |
| Subject: | Firestar near Green Bay |
Hooray!
This afternoon an airworthy certificate was issued for N701US (this is a
Zenith CH 701) ( see www.zenithair.com for more info)
After 2+ years of building, this was a good reward.
FAA inspector was friendly, knowledgeable and finished his work in 1.5 hrs.
It took only 3 weeks for him to show after mailing my application for
inspection!
What does this have to do with Kolb?? Well, I simply cannot afford
financially to maintain 2 aircraft, so my Firestar II with trailer is
available for sale. In a nutshell: purchased new from the Old Kolb (Dennis
Souder) as a factory quickbuild in 1995, professionally covered, 503
electric start, Ivo 3 blade. Comes with custom open trailer (plane pictured
on front page of www.KolbPilot.com ) and has about 175 hrs on it. Looking in
the neighborhood of $9000.00
FWIW, I probably will loose interest in the domain www.KolbPilot.com
website, so if anyone is interested in purchasing that name from me (pretty
inexpensively), email me offline. (Obviously, I havent been keeping it up to
date... but it would be marvelous if someone was devoted to doing it right!)
I have monitored this list since 1995 (yes, before the archives were in
place!) and have learned soooo much over the years! Won't be leaving soon,
that's for sure!
Jon
near Green Bay
www.joncroke.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ian Heritch" <iheritch(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: inside covering |
Larry, never having flown the Sling Shot without the headliner material, I
can only guess that the material does dampen the noise of the cockpit
somewhat. Likely reduces vibrations in the covering material as the cage
moves through the air.
The headliner material I used is 1/4" thick but is a little fuzzy which
probably adds another 1/16-1/8.
I cannot take credit for this idea, Bill Woods who built a champion Sling
Shot, turned me on to this method. I believe he used a thin automotive
carpet purchased at a local auto parts or hardware store.
Ian Heritch
San Antonio, TX
Sling Shot 912
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: inside covering
>
> That sounds like a goody..............do you think it helps with sound
> deadening as well ?? How thick is it ?? Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> www.gogittum.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ian Heritch" <iheritch(at)satx.rr.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: inside covering
>
>
> >
> > Paul, you should talk to Jim & Dondi Miller about painting the reverse
> side
> > of fabric, it should be do-able.
> >
> > After the cage was fully painted, I glued headliner material onto the
> > exposed fabric inside the cage. The material was cut to fit inside the
> > exposed tubes so that when I was finished gluing the steel tubes were
> > exposed. In my case the white powder coated tubes were a nice contrast
to
> > the navy blue headliner material. This application makes the cockpit
look
> > finished, factory finished. I get many compliments on the look of the
> > cockpit interior.
> >
> > The headliner material is light weight, comes in many colors, is
> > inexpensive, and is available at any auto interior shop or supply house.
> I
> > believe I paid under $15 for the material and the 3M spray adhesive.
The
> > job took under two hours, much less than painting would have taken with
a
> > nicer finished look.
> >
> > Ian Heritch
> > Slingshot 912
> > San Antonio, Texas
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Kolb-List: inside covering
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Kolbers,
> > > I noticed that Jim W. covered the inside of the cage of his kolbra. If
I
> > didn't go this route, how do you paint the back side of the fabric? Is
it
> > smooth enough for a paint finish?
> > >
> > > pp
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Possum ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Possum
Subject: Panel
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/possums@mindspring.com.10.01.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
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5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
$49.95 locally in Costco
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heat treating 4130 landing gear/ |
Next week I'll be talking to the shop in Fontana, CA, that will do the heat
treating of Vamoose' new gear legs. If you haven't heard anything by then,
I'll find out what I can for you. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eugene Zimmerman" <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Heat treating 4130 landing gear/
>
>
> Hey guys,
> Any one know of a good place to get heat treating done? Or perhaps
> someone know the procedure to do it. I have a local shop that has a
> digital furnace that is used for stress relieving reground crankshafts
> but they do not have the technological specs for how to harden 4130. Can
> any one steer me in the right direction please.
>
> Gene
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: control interferences |
> Anybody else seen this on their Mark-3s?
>
> Dennis Kirby
> Verner, Powerfin-72 in
> Cedar Crest, NM
Dennis,
My kit though just completed last June is a 91 vintage Mk-3, kit #90.
At the time the fuselages were made with a streamlining bow at the rear just
above the tailboom exit. This took away the chopped back and necessitated a
rectangular opening on each side for the aileron bellcranks to exit. The
plans called for a control travel stop at the top of each opening to stop
the bellcrank travel before the pushrods interfered with each other. I guess
that after the rear streamlining bow was eliminated, it took away the
easiest place to mount a travel stop on the ailerons.
However after nearly 26 hrs on my bird with the stock aileron cord and stock
lever ratio on the ailerons, I don't think there is any chance of reaching
full aileron deflection in flight unless your bionic.
Sincerely,
Denny Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: inside covering |
> Kolbers,
> I noticed that Jim W. covered the inside of the cage of his kolbra. If I
didn't go this route, how do you paint the back side of the fabric? Is it
smooth enough for a paint finish?
Paul,
I did not cover the inside of my cage, the outside is done in Poly Fiber
with the full silver coat and white and blue Polytone finish. Even though
the inside is not painted, it looks finished and does not detract a bit from
the appearance.
Sincerely
Denny Rowe, Mk-3 N616DR, 690L-70, 68" Powerfin F model.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanna-be new Kolber |
----- Original Message -----
From: Guy Morgan <morganguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Wanna-be new Kolber
> Howdy folks. I'm currently taking lessons (I'm on #7) in a Challenger II
in Angleton, TX. I've been looking at planes for a while and I've decided to
go with a Kolb Mk II or Mk III (used.) Is a Kolb a good choice for a new
pilot? I've read some posts here stating that Kolbs are, how do I put it, a
little more unforgiving than some other designs. On the other hand, I've
read lots of good things about Kolbs too, such as climb rate, folding wings,
etc. One last concern; how difficult is it to transition from tricycle gear
to a tail dragger, me being a newbie and all? I am not new to aviation. I
was an AT in the Navy for 7 years and have been working as an AP and
avionics tech for a helicopter company here in Galveston for the last 4 1/2
years. I went for an intro flight a couple of months ago and instantly
became obsessed with U/L's. Thanks for any input.
>
> Guy Morgan
Guy,
As others have said here, the Kolb taildragger issue is a non issue, my
Mk-3 is as tame as any airplane I have ever flown including Cessna 152s and
Piper Cherokees. When transitioning from from general aviation planes to ULs
you need to learn to fly the UL onto the ground, do not flare it 5 foot up
in the air like a Cessna, if you do it will stop and drop. But you have
already learned that in the Challenger. You should have zero trouble
transitioning to a Kolb.
Sincerely,
Denny Rowe, Mk-3, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James, Ken" <KDJames(at)berkscareer.com> |
Do you have any pics of the inside of your cage?
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Pike [mailto:rwpike(at)charter.net]
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: inside covering
If you don't cover the inside of the cage, you will find that it makes
wonderful corners for accumulating dirt. Lots of corners, lots of dirt. I
covered most of the inside of my cage, I wish now I'd covered all of it.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Kolbers,
>I noticed that Jim W. covered the inside of the cage of his kolbra. If I
>didn't go this route, how do you paint the back side of the fabric? Is it
>smooth enough for a paint finish?
>
>pp
>
>
RE: Kolb-List: inside covering
Do you have any pics of the inside of your
cage?
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Pike [<A
HREF"mailto:rwpike(at)charter.net">mailto:rwpike(at)charter.net]
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 8:34 PM
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: inside covering
-- Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike
rwpike(at)charter.net
If you don't cover the inside of the cage, you will
find that it makes
wonderful corners for accumulating dirt. Lots of
corners, lots of dirt. I
covered most of the inside of my cage, I wish now
I'd covered all of it.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
-- Kolb-List message posted by: Paul
Petty ppetty@c-gate.net
Kolbers,
I noticed that Jim W. covered the inside of the
cage of his kolbra. If I
didn't go this route, how do you paint the back
side of the fabric? Is it
smooth enough for a paint finish?
pp
http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
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| From: | "James, Ken" <KDJames(at)berkscareer.com> |
Like to see a pic of your cage.
Ken
-
RE: Kolb-List: inside covering
Like to see a pic of your cage.
Ken
-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: control interferences |
>
> >> On my 1997 Mark-3 Classic, I'm also experiencing the aileron control
>> horn/flap rod interference that Bob Bean describes. Happens at full
>> side
>> stick deflection - the aileron horn contacts the flap push-pull rod.
>>
>
Dennis, I had this problem on mine also. My fix was to space the flap
push-pull rod away with washers and also (tweak) bend the aileron horn a small
amount. This was enough to allow clearance where I only needed to put a piece of
electrical tape on the p-p rod to watch for any future contact.
Bob Griffin
On my 1997 Mark-3 Classic, I'm=20also experiencing the aileron control
horn/flap rod interference that Bob Bean describes. Happens at full side
stick deflection - the aileron horn contacts=20the flap push-pull rod.
Dennis, I had this problem on mine also. My fix was to space the flap push-pull
rod away with washers and also (tweak) bend the aileron horn a small amount.
This was enough to allow clearance where I only needed to put a piece of electrical
tape on the p-p rod to watch for any future contact.
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Possum ] : New Email List Photo Share |
Available!
--bjTKjkPiTgypKhDxjzSgGEuQpse
>
>OK, Possum, you almost got me on that one...
>Still a nice piece of work, and probably available in 5 years.
>
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420p (420ldPoops)
Oh it's already here - if you go the money to waste.
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/efisone/GuidedTour215/attitude.htm
--bjTKjkPiTgypKhDxjzSgGEuQpse
-- Kolb-List message posted by: Richard Pike rwpike(at)charter.net
OK, Possum, you almost got me on that one...
Still a nice piece of work, and probably available in 5 years.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420p (420ldPoops)
Oh it's already here - if you go the money to waste.
http://www.bluemountainavionics.com/efisone/GuidedTour215/attitude.htm
http://img.msgtag.com/eiqFwykcjouwmezsfos/ec/fyhd/gFAzfq.gif">
--bjTKjkPiTgypKhDxjzSgGEuQpse--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Guy Morgan" <morganguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Thanks from the wanna-be |
Thanks for the replies everyone. I do realize (after the fact) I probably should've
searched the archives b/c there are probably a million posts of the same
basic question. I feel alot better now about buying a Kolb and I would never
buy anything to fly in that I wasn't completely confident in. I have worked
with too many helo pilots who are scared of their aircraft and it's no fun riding
with them. I have emailed someone near me (Gerry B.) who has offered me a
ride in his Mk III Extra and I'll take him up on that for sure. Thanks again,
hope to see yall soon.
Guy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thanks from the wanna-be |
Guy, As many have said hear, the Kolb is a very docile taildragger, in fact,
the most docile taildragger I can think of. I personally had never even
ridden in a Kolb till right after OshKosh, when John H stopped by my local
airport to give me a ride in his. I had completed my FireFly and probably
due to too much General Aviation backround, I was just not willing to risk
bending it untill I got a ride in one. (and also probably due to hearing
several exaggerated statements about how a Kolb can bite you). Well, John
Gave me confidence, and I Made the maiden flight the next weekend..within 15
minutes and the 2nd touch an go, I realized that it was not gonna bite me,
and to quote John..."these airplanes just dont have any bad habits". By the
time I had about an hour in, and had stalled it in all configs..landed in
crosswind..and of course began to gain confidence in my creation as any
homebuilder worries a little about something falling off you forgot to
fasten down properly, I started to realize that this baby is the best
handling airplane that you can wrap you stick Hand around. Kolbs just
respond and "do whatever you tell them to" as someone posted here a bit ago.
In fact, it does so well that if there is a problem it might be that you
could be tempted to roll it..loop it, and do all sorts of manuvers it was
not designed for, but is likely to be capable of. The challenger training
you are getting is going to be enough. And after you fly your Kolb you are
going to think of that challenger as a old truck with no power steering.Good
enough to learn in, but now we are flying a Caddy, or I might say a Ferrari!
Good luck ..and the only new advice I can give you is take some asprin along
on your maiden flight day...your jaw muscles are gonna be sore from the
grin!
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jam'n" <jghunter(at)nol.net> |
try this:
http://www.hurtwood.demon.co.uk/Fun/copter.swf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | FireFly - Powerfin Propeller & Bing Dribble Bib |
FireFlyers & Kolbers,
Mounted a Powerfin 65" B two blade propeller on the FireFly. After eight flights
to tune it in, I have decided I like it. I could not get the climb out with
the left-hand IVO that I got from a right-hand IVO on the Rotax 447. The Powerfin
fixed the problem. It is great to climb out at a rate equal to or greater
than your best glide. If the engine quits, one can drop the nose, spin it
around, and head back to the airport and make it or almost make it. Powerfin
does not like extensions, and I did not like the locating off the propeller bolts
with the Powerfin. Had a machine shop modify the IVO extension and make
a locating insert to keep things lined up. Info can be found at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly99.html
Also, I am getting tired of washing the FireFly tail surfaces to remove oil/fuel
that has been dribbling from the air filter while taxiing back to or from the
hangar. I placed a bib inside the air filter and attached it to the Bing inlet.
The bib prevents back flow fuel and oil from falling inside the air cleaner.
How it was done can be seen on the bottom of:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly90.html
Just a few more things to do, and the FireFly will be done.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Kolbers,
I asked John Williamson this question but I think it's a good one for
the list as well. My plans call for the elevators inboard/trailing and
outboard ribs to be jointed together and make sharp corners. John's
plane was a quick build I think and his elevators has the three ribs as
one continuous piece with the corners having a radius. Did TNK change
the design? I tried to call Ray at TNK but he has not called me back and
I want to build one tonight.
pp
Kolbers,
I asked John Williamson this question
but I think
it's a good one for the list as well. My plans call for the elevators
inboard/trailing and outboard ribs to be jointed together and make sharp
corners. John's plane was a quick build I think and his elevators has
the three
ribs as one continuous piece with the corners having a radius. Did TNK
change
the design? I tried to call Ray at TNK but he has not called me back and
I want
to build one tonight.
pp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James and Cathy Tripp" <jtripp(at)elmore.rr.com> |
The plans call for 3 parts but like you already observed, you can build it
with one long piece. That's the way I built my FSII elevators.
James Tripp
Building FSII
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: elevators
>
>
> Kolbers,
> I asked John Williamson this question but I think it's a good one for
> the list as well. My plans call for the elevators inboard/trailing and
> outboard ribs to be jointed together and make sharp corners. John's
> plane was a quick build I think and his elevators has the three ribs as
> one continuous piece with the corners having a radius. Did TNK change
> the design? I tried to call Ray at TNK but he has not called me back and
> I want to build one tonight.
>
> pp
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Kolbers,
> I asked John Williamson this question
> but I think
> it's a good one for the list as well. My plans call for the elevators
> inboard/trailing and outboard ribs to be jointed together and make sharp
>
> corners. John's plane was a quick build I think and his elevators has
> the three
> ribs as one continuous piece with the corners having a radius. Did TNK
> change
> the design? I tried to call Ray at TNK but he has not called me back and
> I want
> to build one tonight.
>
> pp
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Clayton <jspc78(at)yahoo.com> |
Does anyone have a picture or diagram: I'm having a
hard time visualizing using just one long piece. I am
also soon to start the elevators.
Jim Clayton
California
Mark-3X, Building the tail
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf
Of James and
Cathy Tripp
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: elevators
Tripp"
The plans call for 3 parts but like you already
observed, you can build it
with one long piece. That's the way I built my FSII
elevators.
James Tripp
Building FSII
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: elevators
<ppetty@c-gate.net>
>
>
> Kolbers,
> I asked John Williamson this question but I think
it's a good one for
> the list as well. My plans call for the elevators
inboard/trailing and
> outboard ribs to be jointed together and make sharp
corners. John's
> plane was a quick build I think and his elevators
has the three ribs as
> one continuous piece with the corners having a
radius. Did TNK change
> the design? I tried to call Ray at TNK but he has
not called me back and
> I want to build one tonight.
>
> pp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Ivoprop replacement tape - Powerfin |
Like others, I have been frustrated by Ivoprop's supplier's no longer
making the older, thicker stainless leading edge tape available. The
current thin stuff is junk. But not to worry, Powerfin urethane tape seems
to work even better, costs less, and is easier to apply.
Their web page says they have replacement stainless tape, but they don't,
it is a black urethane tape, and it seems to be working great. Unlike Ivo,
they want you to clean your prop blades with acetone instead of MEK before
you apply the tape. It is much easier to install than the stainless tape.
Lays down nice, no bubbles or creases. Seems to want to stick very well.
Got in a test flight tonight, no real numbers, the radical temperature drop
changes everything anyway, but the prop seemed to work better than before.
They charged me $3 per tape and $2 shipping, not bad.
Their phone # 1-800-581-8207
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanna-be new Kolber |
I think the original Kolb Co stated that their planes were just a bit
more responsive than other ULs. A skeptic might call this
"unforgiving", but i agree with the other post -- transitioning from
the Challenger will be cake. IMO, you'll WANT any snappier
performance, sooner the better. It is certainly not hard to fly, and I
would argue its STOL performance make it very forgiving. I'm enjoying
getting to fly my FS-KXP again after a 4 year hiatus, and I can assure
you there is a Big Smile on my face flying the Kolb again. It has some
real get-up-and-GO. Yesterday I got myself back out in the sticks
doing touch-n-goes in a set of small, graded dirt patches set up for
winter drainage. What a hoot! Big bouncy tires, no tri-gear to bobble
you on the ground, good shock gear, power and climb to jump out of one
patch and land again in the next, etc, etc. I've also been getting
myself reaccustomed to some whoopty-do wing-overs, and all kinds of
stalls (climbing, turning, power, etc). I did find that my steep turns
show some negative roll stability, meaning I need to add more reverse
aileron (up around 60deg bank) than I remembered from before. That is
a minor bark -- just something I'd call different, not perfect, and
very managable. (<45 deg banks show neutral roll stability). I should
add, my wings and wing tips are no longer stock (a bit shorter and
different tips), so perhaps in this regard I've made something worse.
Also, in shallow bank turning stalls (<30degrees), the the outer wing
drops just a tiny bit resulting in a straight ahead simple stall -- and
it is a very mild stall with extremely obvious cues. (i.e. Forgiving)
Add to all this the simple folding wing design, which can really lower
the storage costs, and I don't see a better UL -- unless you don't want
the build time. By comparison, I've not flown much else in the UL
category -- just a few of the quicksilvers (fun, but slow like a kite)
and a beaver (STIFF Popeye ailerons - not my cup of tea).
The only taildragger thing I think needs any real attention is that the
wings are at a relatively high angle of attack when the thing is
sitting on all three wheels. This means a Xwind, particularly a side
gust after landing, can pick up a wing unexpectedly. You don't want
this tossing you sideways. Just be mindful of keeping some aileron
bank into the Xwind during and after touch down -- and of course,
rudders to keep pointing straight with the direction of travel.
-Ben 'happy camper' Ransom
--- Guy Morgan wrote:
>
>
> Howdy folks. I'm currently taking lessons (I'm on #7) in a Challenger
> II in Angleton, TX. I've been looking at planes for a while and I've
> decided to go with a Kolb Mk II or Mk III (used.) Is a Kolb a good
> choice for a new pilot? I've read some posts here stating that Kolbs
> are, how do I put it, a little more unforgiving than some other
> designs. On the other hand, I've read lots of good things about Kolbs
> too, such as climb rate, folding wings, etc. One last concern; how
> difficult is it to transition from tricycle gear to a tail dragger,
> me being a newbie and all? I am not new to aviation. I was an AT in
> the Navy for 7 years and have been working as an AP and avionics tech
> for a helicopter company here in Galveston for the last 4 1/2 years.
> I went for an intro flight a couple of months ago and instantly
> became obsessed with U/L's. Thanks for any input.
>
>
> Guy Morgan
>
>
> --Eat one live toad first thing in the morning and nothing worse will
> happen to you the rest of the day.
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heat treating 4130 landing gear/ |
Gene, The specs for heat treating 4120, or anything else, are in the
machinist's handbook...and any shop that has a digital furnace and dont have
a that book I would be kinda worried about!!!! Also, they can easily call
the company that sold them the furnace and get the specs...I hate tyo say
this pard..but it sounds to me like they dont wanna do it...
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: control interference |
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: control interference
> Mr. Pike's hole relocation method would also be a factor if used. -BB,
MkIII
Bob,
Yeah, I would love to do Richards trick of increasing the aileron leverage
ratio to my bird to lighten the roll force, but the rear fairing does not
allow clearance to move the pushrods in. Oh well, I can get a lttle exercise
with every turn this way. :-)
Denny Rowe, Mk-3, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Heat treating 4130 landing gear/ |
Gene,
I had mine done at a place in LA, but they only got up to RC 42 or 43.
Brought it up on this list and John H suggested some -- included below
from the archives. BTW, I'm using mine anyway and will let y'all know
if I prang em. Have already done more "initial testing" in that regard
than I intended. ;)
cheers,
-Ben
John's post from last April (search archive on heat treat):
Terry/Gang:
Here's the web site for the plant in Anniston, AL:
http://braddockmt.com/al.htm
Here's Braddock's home page. They are larger than I thought:
http://braddockmt.com/al.htm
My gear legs were supposed to be hardened and
tempered to 48 RC, but came out of the kiln at
46-47 RC, which it good enough to get the job
done.
john h
> Hey guys,
> Any one know of a good place to get heat treating done? Or perhaps
> someone know the procedure to do it. I have a local shop that has a
> digital furnace that is used for stress relieving reground
> crankshafts
> but they do not have the technological specs for how to harden 4130.
> Can
> any one steer me in the right direction please.
>
> Gene
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan green" <lgreen1(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wanna-be new Kolber |
I agree with the others Guy you will love the Kolb and have no problems with
it. I took my training (USUA) in a Challenger II then bought my 1992 model
Firestar I and after a couple hours of taxi test was flying. I store mine in
a trailer and do the wing fold each time I fly. Have fun and fly safe.
Bryan Green Elgin SC
Firestar I 377 BRS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Ransom" <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Wanna-be new Kolber
>
> I think the original Kolb Co stated that their planes were just a bit
> more responsive than other ULs. A skeptic might call this
> "unforgiving", but i agree with the other post -- transitioning from
> the Challenger will be cake. IMO, you'll WANT any snappier
> performance, sooner the better. It is certainly not hard to fly, and I
> would argue its STOL performance make it very forgiving. I'm enjoying
> getting to fly my FS-KXP again after a 4 year hiatus, and I can assure
> you there is a Big Smile on my face flying the Kolb again. It has some
> real get-up-and-GO. Yesterday I got myself back out in the sticks
> doing touch-n-goes in a set of small, graded dirt patches set up for
> winter drainage. What a hoot! Big bouncy tires, no tri-gear to bobble
> you on the ground, good shock gear, power and climb to jump out of one
> patch and land again in the next, etc, etc. I've also been getting
> myself reaccustomed to some whoopty-do wing-overs, and all kinds of
> stalls (climbing, turning, power, etc). I did find that my steep turns
> show some negative roll stability, meaning I need to add more reverse
> aileron (up around 60deg bank) than I remembered from before. That is
> a minor bark -- just something I'd call different, not perfect, and
> very managable. (<45 deg banks show neutral roll stability). I should
> add, my wings and wing tips are no longer stock (a bit shorter and
> different tips), so perhaps in this regard I've made something worse.
> Also, in shallow bank turning stalls (<30degrees), the the outer wing
> drops just a tiny bit resulting in a straight ahead simple stall -- and
> it is a very mild stall with extremely obvious cues. (i.e. Forgiving)
> Add to all this the simple folding wing design, which can really lower
> the storage costs, and I don't see a better UL -- unless you don't want
> the build time. By comparison, I've not flown much else in the UL
> category -- just a few of the quicksilvers (fun, but slow like a kite)
> and a beaver (STIFF Popeye ailerons - not my cup of tea).
>
> The only taildragger thing I think needs any real attention is that the
> wings are at a relatively high angle of attack when the thing is
> sitting on all three wheels. This means a Xwind, particularly a side
> gust after landing, can pick up a wing unexpectedly. You don't want
> this tossing you sideways. Just be mindful of keeping some aileron
> bank into the Xwind during and after touch down -- and of course,
> rudders to keep pointing straight with the direction of travel.
> -Ben 'happy camper' Ransom
>
>
> --- Guy Morgan wrote:
> >
> >
> > Howdy folks. I'm currently taking lessons (I'm on #7) in a Challenger
> > II in Angleton, TX. I've been looking at planes for a while and I've
> > decided to go with a Kolb Mk II or Mk III (used.) Is a Kolb a good
> > choice for a new pilot? I've read some posts here stating that Kolbs
> > are, how do I put it, a little more unforgiving than some other
> > designs. On the other hand, I've read lots of good things about Kolbs
> > too, such as climb rate, folding wings, etc. One last concern; how
> > difficult is it to transition from tricycle gear to a tail dragger,
> > me being a newbie and all? I am not new to aviation. I was an AT in
> > the Navy for 7 years and have been working as an AP and avionics tech
> > for a helicopter company here in Galveston for the last 4 1/2 years.
> > I went for an intro flight a couple of months ago and instantly
> > became obsessed with U/L's. Thanks for any input.
> >
> >
> > Guy Morgan
> >
> >
> > --Eat one live toad first thing in the morning and nothing worse will
> > happen to you the rest of the day.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> =====
> http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
> __________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ron wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
just wondering how many on this list now own and fly the old ultrastar?,
any good stories?,trips,"john H"?
just wondering how many on this list
now own and
fly the old ultrastar?, any good stories?,trips,"john
H"?
________________________________________________________________________________
Gang,
Thanks to everyone for the photo's. Lots of help. The plans I have are
the new 3D format and I think I would have liked the old "blueprint"
style with alternates better.
pp
Gang,
Thanks to everyone for the photo's.
Lots of help.
The plans I have are the new 3D format and I think I would have liked
the old
"blueprint" style with alternatesbetter.
pp
________________________________________________________________________________
One more thing. If it were a deck I were building I would figure out
things for myself. But it being an aircraft that I hope to be flying
high above the earth's surface, I want to have the assurance that it is
built right. There is one thing that I have learned about aviation. And
that is things that you think are so simple are really complicated. And
vise versa.I don't want to just built a part and find out it has some
hidden problem. Sorta like the "Vibrational torsion" thing and the
"Nitrogen Embedding" thing from chrome plating. Before I met you fine
folk's, I would have never discovered this stuff. The plans I have for
the elevators do not show how far apart the ribs are supposed to be.
Just how many. They do show a 10 1/4" space between the center two ribs.
If I space them all at 10 1/4" only 4 would fit and they would not be
evenly spaced. I guess I will just figure out the spacing by dividing
the length of the control surface by the number of ribs and space them
evenly, Right? I think I will snap some good photo's of the 5 pages of
plans for the elevators and post them on photoshare.Thanks again for all
the help.
pp
One more thing. If it were a deck I
were building I
would figure out things for myself. But it being an aircraft that I hope
to be
flying high above the earth's surface, I want to have theassurance
that it
is built right. There is one thing that I have learned about aviation.
And that
is things that you think are so simple are really complicated. And vise
versa.I
don't want to just built a part and find out it has some hidden problem.
Sorta
like the "Vibrational torsion" thing and the "Nitrogen Embedding" thing
from
chrome plating. Before I met you fine folk's, I would have never
discovered this
stuff. The plans I have for the elevators do not show how far apart the
ribs are
supposed to be. Just how many. They do show a 10 1/4" space
betweenthe
center two ribs. If I space them all at 10 1/4" only 4 would fit and
they would
not be evenly spaced. I guess I will just figure out thespacing by
dividing the length of the control surface by the number of ribs and
space them
evenly, Right? I think I will snap some good photo's of the 5 pages of
plans for
the elevators andpost them on photoshare.Thanks again for all the
help.
pp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Control interferences and 2003 fly-in |
This occurred on my 1998 Classic, but only when I wasn't in the cockpit and
the stick (TNK dual sticks) was able to move to the very limit. There is no
interference when I'm in the plane. I turned the clevis and safety pin
around on the aileron arm so there is a little more clearance between the
end of the arm and the flap pull-rod. The pin and clevis end scraped the
flap pull-rod pretty good before I caught it - it happened one day when I
forgot to secure the surfaces and the they flopped from side to side in the
wind. I haven't replaced the pull-rod since the damage was slight. I think
the fix would be aileron travel stops. I'd like to see a clever idea that
incorporated travel stops with a control lock.
I saw lots of great ideas at the flyin - I'll try to post some pictures
soon. It was great to meet you guys and put some faces with the names. I'm
sorry if I didn't get to say goodbye to everyone, but when the wind picked
up and the clouds started filling in I wanted to head south while the
getting was good. Mountains and clouds still make this Florida boy nervous.
I made it down to Martin Campbell field in Ducktown via Monroe County easy
enough, and spent the week in Murphy NC with some fishing buddies from
Jacksonville FL. Left there Thursday morning in 37 degree air, yow! I just
got home to Fort Myers FL today. What a great trip, tailwinds both ways.
Thanks to everyone attending and the folks at TNK, it was a great event.
Special thanks to Steve Green, John Hauck, John Bickham, and John Williamson
for all their help and advice. Anybody on the list building or
contemplating building, you couldn't attend a more valuable gathering to
learn and compare how other builder-flyers have solved the problems and made
the choices necessary to finish their planes. I have a list of projects I
need to complete before next year. See you then, if not sooner.
Duncan McBride
Mark III, 319DM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: control interferences
>
> BB wrote:
> << earlier subject: control interferences, I haven't hit the archives on
it
> yet but I do have a contact between my right aileron horn and the flap
rod,
> not within normal operating range but still doesn't look right. -BB >>
>
> then John Hauck wrote:
> < How'd you do that?
> You are talking about the flap push/pull tube on the flap horn?
> On a MK III?
> First time I have heard of that problem.
> When does it hit? pitch mode? roll mode? or both? >>
>
> John, BB, and Kolbers -
>
> On my 1997 Mark-3 Classic, I'm also experiencing the aileron control
> horn/flap rod interference that Bob Bean describes. Happens at full side
> stick deflection - the aileron horn contacts the flap push-pull rod. Did
> not notice the interference until the airplane was finished. Built
exactly
> to plans - no mods here. It appears that if I would slam the control
stick
> to the side hard enough, the two intefering parts could bind up on each
> other, causing a control lockup. That would be bad. I hope I should not
> have to make such extreme control movements in normal flight, but ... one
> never knows. I've not yet come up with a fix.
>
> Anybody else seen this on their Mark-3s?
>
> Dennis Kirby
> Verner, Powerfin-72 in
> Cedar Crest, NM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Masqqqqqqq(at)aol.com |
I've got a 1984 Kolb UltraStar, which I bought used 8 years ago, with no
prior information on the machine.
I replaced the Cayuna engine with a dual carb Rotax 447, added Matco
hydraulic brakes, put in a 5 gallon seat tank, and designed a flaperon mechanism.
Most recent improvement was this summer, when I built and installed vortex
generators on the wing. (what an amazing difference).
Took dual training in a Quicksilver MX, and then rented a Quicksilver
Sprint for 10 hours of flight before buying the Kolb. I really like the way the
UltraStar doesn't change pitch with throttle changes, due to the low engine
mount. I've got nearly 400 hours in my UltraStar now. Going to put new
covering on the surfaces this winter.
Downsides of the UltraStar are the low prop, limiting off field
operations to close clipped grass. Also the increased take off requirements, because
you need a little more distance to get that tail wheel 4 feet off the ground
to attain flight attitude.
I've got a 1984 Kolb UltraStar, which I bought used 8 years ago, with no prior
information on the machine.
I replaced the Cayuna engine with a dual carb Rotax 447, added Matco hydraulic
brakes, put in a 5 gallon seat tank, and designed a flaperon mechanism. Most
recent improvement was this summer, when=20I built and installed vortex generators
on the wing. (what an amazing=20difference).
Took dual training in a Quicksilver MX, and then rented a Quicksilver Sprint for
10 hours of flight before buying the Kolb. I really like the way the UltraStar
doesn't change pitch with throttle changes, due to the low engine mount. I've
got nearly 400 hours in my UltraStar now. Going to put new covering on the
surfaces this winter.
Downsides of the UltraStar are the low prop, limiting off field operations to
close clipped grass. Also the increased take off requirements, because you need
a little more distance to get that tail wheel 4 feet off the ground to attain
flight attitude.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pieper_Frank" <Pieper_Frank(at)asdk12.org> |
stop sending me this stuff
> ----------
> From: Masqqqqqqq(at)aol.com
> Reply To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, October 3, 2003 2:51 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: ultrastar
>
>
>
> I've got a 1984 Kolb UltraStar, which I bought used 8 years ago, with no
> prior information on the machine.
> I replaced the Cayuna engine with a dual carb Rotax 447, added Matco
> hydraulic brakes, put in a 5 gallon seat tank, and designed a flaperon mechanism.
> Most recent improvement was this summer, when I built and installed vortex
> generators on the wing. (what an amazing difference).
> Took dual training in a Quicksilver MX, and then rented a Quicksilver
> Sprint for 10 hours of flight before buying the Kolb. I really like the way
the
> UltraStar doesn't change pitch with throttle changes, due to the low engine
> mount. I've got nearly 400 hours in my UltraStar now. Going to put new
> covering on the surfaces this winter.
> Downsides of the UltraStar are the low prop, limiting off field
> operations to close clipped grass. Also the increased take off requirements,
because
> you need a little more distance to get that tail wheel 4 feet off the ground
> to attain flight attitude.
>
>
> "SANSSERIF" FACE"Arial" LANG"0"> I've go> t a 1984 Kolb UltraStar, which I bought
used 8 years ago, with no prior info> rmation on the machine.
> I replaced the Cayuna engine with a dual carb Rotax> 447, added Matco hydraulic
brakes, put in a 5 gallon seat tank, and designe> d a flaperon mechanism.
Most recent improvement was this summer, when=20> I built and installed vortex
generators on the wing. (what an amazing=20> difference).
> Took dual training in a Quicksilver MX, and then rented a> Quicksilver Sprint
for 10 hours of flight before buying the Kolb. I r> eally like the way the
UltraStar doesn't change pitch with throttle changes,> due to the low engine
mount. I've got nearly 400 hours in my UltraSta> r now. Going to put new covering
on the surfaces this winter.
> Downsides of the UltraStar are the low prop, limiti> ng off field operations
to close clipped grass. Also the increased tak> e off requirements, because you
need a little more distance to get that tail> wheel 4 feet off the ground
to attain flight attitude. TML>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BMWBikeCrz(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Here we go again ... |
In a message dated 10/3/2003 6:37:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Pieper_Frank(at)asdk12.org writes:
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
>
Go to this Link and follow the instructions ...
In a message dated 10/3/2003 6:37:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Pieper_Frank(at)asdk12.org
writes:
http://www.matronics.com/subscription
Go to this Link and follow the instructions ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Here we go again ... |
| From: | "Pieper_Frank" <Pieper_Frank(at)asdk12.org> |
UnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribe
> ----------
> From: BMWBikeCrz(at)aol.com
> Reply To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, October 3, 2003 4:04 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Here we go again ...
>
>
>
> In a message dated 10/3/2003 6:37:56 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> Pieper_Frank(at)asdk12.org writes:
>
>
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> >
>
> Go to this Link and follow the instructions ...
>
>
> "DECORATIVE" FACE"Bauhaus 93" LANG"0">In a message dated 10/3/20> 03 6:37:56
PM Eastern Daylight Time, Pieper_Frank(at)asdk12.org writes:
>
> FAMILY"SANSSERIF" FACE"Arial" LANG"0">
> : 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">http://www.matronics.com/subscr> iption
>
> FAMILY"DECORATIVE" FACE"Bauhaus 93" LANG"0">
> Go to this Link and follow the instructions ...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
Frank
When you sign up for the Kolb list you will get plenty of E-mail. If you
will kindly read the instructions on the bottom of any Kolb E-Mail you will
learn how to delete your self from our list.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pieper_Frank" <Pieper_Frank(at)asdk12.org>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: ultrastar
>
> stop sending me this stuff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ron wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
you have a pic of it, as I have a file with lots in it!,thanks for the reply
----- Original Message -----
From: <Masqqqqqqq(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: ultrastar
>
>
> I've got a 1984 Kolb UltraStar, which I bought used 8 years ago, with
no
> prior information on the machine.
> I replaced the Cayuna engine with a dual carb Rotax 447, added Matco
> hydraulic brakes, put in a 5 gallon seat tank, and designed a flaperon
mechanism.
> Most recent improvement was this summer, when I built and installed
vortex
> generators on the wing. (what an amazing difference).
> Took dual training in a Quicksilver MX, and then rented a Quicksilver
> Sprint for 10 hours of flight before buying the Kolb. I really like the
way the
> UltraStar doesn't change pitch with throttle changes, due to the low
engine
> mount. I've got nearly 400 hours in my UltraStar now. Going to put new
> covering on the surfaces this winter.
> Downsides of the UltraStar are the low prop, limiting off field
> operations to close clipped grass. Also the increased take off
requirements, because
> you need a little more distance to get that tail wheel 4 feet off the
ground
> to attain flight attitude.
>
>
> "SANSSERIF" FACE"Arial" LANG"0"> I've go> t a 1984 Kolb UltraStar, which I bought
used 8 years ago, with no prior
info> rmation on the machine.
> I replaced the Cayuna engine with a dual carb
Rotax> 447, added Matco hydraulic brakes, put in a 5 gallon seat tank, and
designe> d a flaperon mechanism. Most recent improvement was this summer,
when=20> I built and installed vortex generators on the wing. (what an
amazing=20> difference).
> Took dual training in a Quicksilver MX, and then rented
a> Quicksilver Sprint for 10 hours of flight before buying the Kolb. I
r> eally like the way the UltraStar doesn't change pitch with throttle
changes,> due to the low engine mount. I've got nearly 400 hours in my
UltraSta> r now. Going to put new covering on the surfaces this winter.
> Downsides of the UltraStar are the low prop,
limiti> ng off field operations to close clipped grass. Also the increased
tak> e off requirements, because you need a little more distance to get that
tail> wheel 4 feet off the ground to attain flight attitude.
TML>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan green" <lgreen1(at)sc.rr.com> |
I bought two new gear legs from TNK for a Firefly to replace the ones on
my Firestar I but they are 4.5" longer than mine. Can I use the extra
lenght or should I cut to size?
Bryan Green Elgin SC
Firestar I 377 BRS
I bought two new gear legs from TNK for
a Firefly
to replace the ones on my Firestar I but they are 4.5" longer than mine.
Can I
use the extra lenght or should I cut to size?
Bryan Green Elgin SC
Firestar I 377
BRS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Duncan McBride ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Duncan McBride
Subject: Pictures from Flyin 2003
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/duncanmcbride@comcast.net.10.04.2003/index.html
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
10/04/2003 07:26:37 PM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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
I think I would call TNK and verify there the right part. The longer
length would place the wheels slightly further forward which I would think
would improve upon the nose over tenancy of the FireFly. Disadvantage is
it would make it sit higher would making getting in and out harder except
for those long legged string bean pilots.
jerb
(short for my weight & altitude challenged)
P.S. - has anyone read an echo - has you all noticed the messages echoing
lately.
>
>
>I bought two new gear legs from TNK for a Firefly to replace the ones on
>my Firestar I but they are 4.5" longer than mine. Can I use the extra
>lenght or should I cut to size?
>Bryan Green Elgin SC
>Firestar I 377 BRS
>
>I bought two new gear legs from TNK for a Firefly to replace the ones on
>my Firestar I but they are 4.5" longer than mine. Can I use the extra
>lenght or should I cut to size?
>Bryan Green Elgin SC
>Firestar I 377 BRS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | tony webster <caw(at)nctc.com> |
if you are trying to use southern slang it is have you all not has you all
jerb wrote:
>
> I think I would call TNK and verify there the right part. The longer
> length would place the wheels slightly further forward which I would think
> would improve upon the nose over tenancy of the FireFly. Disadvantage is
> it would make it sit higher would making getting in and out harder except
> for those long legged string bean pilots.
> jerb
> (short for my weight & altitude challenged)
>
> P.S. - has anyone read an echo - has you all noticed the messages echoing
> lately.
>
> >
> >
> >I bought two new gear legs from TNK for a Firefly to replace the ones on
> >my Firestar I but they are 4.5" longer than mine. Can I use the extra
> >lenght or should I cut to size?
> >Bryan Green Elgin SC
> >Firestar I 377 BRS
> >
> >I bought two new gear legs from TNK for a Firefly to replace the ones on
> >my Firestar I but they are 4.5" longer than mine. Can I use the extra
> >lenght or should I cut to size?
> >Bryan Green Elgin SC
> >Firestar I 377 BRS
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Daniel Walter ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Daniel Walter
Subject: Ultrastar Nose Cone
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o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
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Email the information above and your files and photos to:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy(at)lycos.com> |
| Subject: | Dead Puppys - I lik'em |
Hay Guys,
Stickin wit some tradition , the "subject" has nuthin 2 do wit da question.
Eye m wonder in F any body wood tell me there pitch on an IVO. Eye m redi 2
break in my 503. I set it 2 13degrees , I'm hoping 2 B close enough 4 da 1 our
it takes wit out shuting down 2 re-adjust da pitch....I can fine tune it afterwoods.
503 / 2:58 , 3blade IVO 66"
Tank U
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Cowan <tcowan1917(at)direcway.com> |
Hello all. Had a great time at the Kolb flyin. Am just (hopefully)
completing my wiring of the instruments and guages. Am having difficulty
with grasping the wiring set up for the electric trim. This employs the use
of the motor from a battery powered (3volt) electric screw driver, black and
decker. there are also two micro switches to prevent overrun at both ends
of the spectrim. does anyone happen to have any idea as to how to wire this
up to a rocker type switch or a two way toggle switch? appreciate the
imput. I think it was designed by someone on the list at one point but I
cannot find the reference in the archives. thanks. ted cowan. p.s. I
have the original rocker from the screwdriver which I can use if I can
figure (I am really dumb) out how to work the micros shut off switches.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ron wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
who owns the blue/yellow Ustar with the long gear legs,I think it is in
florida.thanks ron.w.
who owns the blue/yellow Ustar with the
long gear
legs,I think it is in florida.thanks ron.w.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ron wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
sitting here looking at my U star plans anyone know what the concrete
block drawing is on page 11?,,thinking it may be an idea for jigging up
to build the cage? p.s. plans are very old.was gonna fly mine this
morning,,but it is actually raining out here in west tx.
sitting here looking at my U star plans
anyone know
what the concrete block drawing is on page 11?,,thinking it may be an
idea for
jigging up to build the cage? p.s. plans are very old.was gonna fly mine
this
morning,,but it is actually raining out here in west
tx.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
10/05/2003 12":00:53.PM(at)matronics.com,
MIME-CD complete at 10/05/2003 12:00:53.PM(at)matronics.com,
Serialize by Router on SMTP102/URSCorp(Release 5.0.11 |July 24, 2002) at
10/05/2003 12:03:49.PM(at)matronics.com
Hey gang
I will be driving out from Santa Barbara to attend Copper State on Friday
and Saturday. No quite enough testosterone here to do the solo cross
country flight. Looks like a few of us from the Monument Valley trip will
be there - hope to see those familiar kolb faces and maybe meet a few new
ones.
regards,
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dead Puppys - I lik'em |
Don't have da pitch, but don't be surprised if you have to add more pitch
to the prop during the break in run as the engine gains power as it breaks
in. Had to do it on two different 447's when breaking them in. Warm up
the engine a little before going to any full high power runs while
completing a static prop RPM test. I did this and went right into the
break in procedure.
To remain friends with your hangar neighbors, go off to the side and do the
break end. An hour of a Rotax or Hirth screaming will drive them to
violence. Take a wrench or channel locks of the size needed so you can
adjust the prop and make sure you have enough fuel to complete the hour
run. You should need around 5 gallons for a 503 I would think, just don't
run out of fuel part way through. Last, hearing protection is advised.
jerb
>
>
> Hay Guys,
> Stickin wit some tradition , the "subject" has nuthin 2 do wit
> da question.
>
> Eye m wonder in F any body wood tell me there pitch on an IVO. Eye m
> redi 2 break in my 503. I set it 2 13degrees , I'm hoping 2 B close
> enough 4 da 1 our it takes wit out shuting down 2 re-adjust da pitch....I
> can fine tune it afterwoods.
> 503 / 2:58 , 3blade IVO 66"
>
> Tank U
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: electric trim |
The rocker switches and motor should be in the cage - some cable should be
extended out to the trim component or you may place the control surface to
far out of balance resulting in possible flutter, something you don't want.
jerb
>
>Hello all. Had a great time at the Kolb flyin. Am just (hopefully)
>completing my wiring of the instruments and guages. Am having difficulty
>with grasping the wiring set up for the electric trim. This employs the use
>of the motor from a battery powered (3volt) electric screw driver, black and
>decker. there are also two micro switches to prevent overrun at both ends
>of the spectrim. does anyone happen to have any idea as to how to wire this
>up to a rocker type switch or a two way toggle switch? appreciate the
>imput. I think it was designed by someone on the list at one point but I
>cannot find the reference in the archives. thanks. ted cowan. p.s. I
>have the original rocker from the screwdriver which I can use if I can
>figure (I am really dumb) out how to work the micros shut off switches.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BMWBikeCrz(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Venice Beach Fl ... |
While at Venice Beach a Kolb flew oner North Bound ... Lookin Good ! Who R u
??? Dave
Between 5:30 - 6:30 Pm Sunday ...
While at Venice Beach a Kolb flew oner North Bound ... Lookin Good ! Who R u ???
Dave
Between 5:30 - 6:30 Pm Sunday ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BMWBikeCrz(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Venice Beach Fl ... |
While at Venice Beach a Kolb flew oner North Bound ... Lookin Good ! Who R u
??? Dave
Between 5:30 - 6:30 Pm Sunday ...
While at Venice Beach a Kolb flew oner North Bound ... Lookin Good ! Who R u ???
Dave
Between 5:30 - 6:30 Pm Sunday ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gherkins Tim-rp3420 <rp3420(at)motorola.com> |
| Subject: | For Sale- Carb heaters |
Kolbers,
I happened upon a set of dual carb heaters designed to work with bing 54 carb for
a Rotax two stroke. Brand new, never mounted with original paperwork. I figured
with the cold season coming up on us soon someone could use them. I live
in the middle of the Sonoran desert and don't think I'll ever need them here
in the southwest. They go for 279.00 in the Aircraft Spruce catalog. I'll
let them go for 220.00. Save yourself some money, I'll even throw in 2-day priority
shipping right to your doorstep.
Interested? reply to me off the list at: rp3420(at)email.sps.mot.com
Thanks,
Tim Gherkins
Phx, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
If, and I emphasize IF, the new gear legs could be pushed all the way
up to the top of the cage sleeves, resulting in the same effective
length sticking out as before, you would have a stronger setup and no
downsides except for the weight of the extra 4.5". (The location taper
would need to be the same too.)
Those who have gone to spring steel tube gear legs have purposefully
changed to legs shoved all the way up. If there is a ground accident
that tears out the legs, the tendency with normal legs that end half
way up the sleeves is to slightly bend and crease the sleeves where the
legs end inside.
-Ben Ransom
FS KXP
--- bryan green wrote:
>
>
> I bought two new gear legs from TNK for a Firefly to replace the ones
> on
> my Firestar I but they are 4.5" longer than mine. Can I use the extra
> lenght or should I cut to size?
> Bryan Green Elgin SC
> Firestar I 377 BRS
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I bought two new gear legs from TNK for
> a Firefly
> to replace the ones on my Firestar I but they are 4.5" longer than
> mine.
> Can I
> use the extra lenght or should I cut to size?
> Bryan Green Elgin SC
Firestar I 377
> BRS
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Hocker" <hocker(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | Kolb flying over Venice Beach, FL |
Hi Kolbers,
That Kolb flying over Venice Beach, Florida could have been one I
previously owned and sold to Steve Jones of Venice. It was a 1986 Kolb
Twinstar with a Rotax 503 SCSI. It had yellow wings and a dark green
fairing. It was a great little flyer, but it was time for me to move on
since I didn't have enough time for it. He keeps it at the Venice
airport.
Bill H.
Hi Kolbers,
That Kolb flying over Venice
Beach, Florida
could have been one I previously owned and sold to Steve Jones of
Venice. It was
a 1986 Kolb Twinstar with a Rotax 503 SCSI. It had yellow wings
and a dark
green fairing. It was a great little flyer, but it was time for me
to move
on since I didn't have enough time for it. He keeps it at the
Venice
airport.
Bill H.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb flying over Venice Beach, FL |
In a message dated 10/6/2003 4:33:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time, hocker(at)gte.net
writes:
> It was a great little flyer, but it was time for me to move on
> since I didn't have enough time for it. He keeps it at the Venice
> airport.
>
> Bill H.
>
Hi Bill; I know just what you are talking about. That is why mine is for sale
as well.
such is life.
Bill
In a message dated 10/6/2003 4:33:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time, hocker(at)gte.net writes:
It was a great little flyer, but it was time for me to move on
since I didn't have enough time for it. He keeps it at the Venice
airport.
Bill H.
Hi Bill; I know just what you are talking about. That is why mine is for sale as
well.
such is life.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BMWBikeCrz(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb flying over Venice Beach, FL |
That looked like it ... looked like see through floorboards ... Definatly saw
the green ...
That looked like it ... looked like see through floorboards ... Definatly saw the
green ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kuffel <kuffel(at)cyberport.net> |
| Subject: | Electric Trim Circuit |
Ted,
<>
You will find this standard circuit in one of the Bingelis books as well
as other aviation electronic books. Draw up a diagram from the
following verbal description and you will get the idea.
You need:
circuit breaker or fuse
a momentary (spring loaded) double pole double throw center off switch
two normally closed micro-switches
4 wire cable from the control switch to the motor/limit switches area
(assuming a typical mechanical setup)
Call the 4 contacts of the dpdt switch 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 where contacts 1 &
2 are the output of pole 1 and contacts 3 & 4 are the output of pole 2.
Call the two contacts of the DC motor A & B.
Run battery plus through a fuse/circuit breaker to pole 1 input of the
control switch (output contacts 1 & 2)
Run ground to pole 2 input of the control switch (output contacts 3 & 4)
Wire from contact 1 to input of limit switch
Wire from output of limit switch to A
Wire from contact 2 to input of other limit switch
Wire from output of other limit switch to B
Wire from contact 3 to B
Wire from contact 4 to A
When the control switch energizes contacts 1 and 3 then power from 1
goes through the limit switch to A, through the motor to B and back to 3
until the limit switch opens.
When the control switch energizes contacts 2 and 4 then power from 2
goes through the other limit switch to B, through the motor in the
opposite direction to A and back to 4 until the other limit switch
opens.
Hope this is clear enough.
Tom Kuffel
Whitefish, MT
Building Original FireStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan green" <lgreen1(at)sc.rr.com> |
Thanks Ben I have read through the archives and saw several post for the
benefits of slightly longer legs,so I'll give em a try.
Bryan Green (Elgin SC)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Ransom" <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: gear legs
>
> If, and I emphasize IF, the new gear legs could be pushed all the way
> up to the top of the cage sleeves, resulting in the same effective
> length sticking out as before, you would have a stronger setup and no
> downsides except for the weight of the extra 4.5". (The location taper
> would need to be the same too.)
>
> Those who have gone to spring steel tube gear legs have purposefully
> changed to legs shoved all the way up. If there is a ground accident
> that tears out the legs, the tendency with normal legs that end half
> way up the sleeves is to slightly bend and crease the sleeves where the
> legs end inside.
> -Ben Ransom
> FS KXP
>
> --- bryan green wrote:
> >
> >
> > I bought two new gear legs from TNK for a Firefly to replace the ones
> > on
> > my Firestar I but they are 4.5" longer than mine. Can I use the extra
> > lenght or should I cut to size?
> > Bryan Green Elgin SC
> > Firestar I 377 BRS
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I bought two new gear legs from TNK for
> > a Firefly
> > to replace the ones on my Firestar I but they are 4.5" longer than
> > mine.
> > Can I
> > use the extra lenght or should I cut to size?
> > Bryan Green Elgin SC
Firestar I 377
> > BRS
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> =====
> http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
>
> __________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rayfield, Bill" <brayfield(at)kcc.com> |
Anybody seen this? I bet Paul Petty would be interested.
www.hog-air.com
Bill Rayfield
Kimberly-Clark, Corp.
Lexington Mill
ph: 336-242-6653
fax: 336-242-6633
This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain
privileged, confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from
disclosure under law. If you have received this message in error, please
inform us promptly by reply e-mail, then delete the e-mail and destroy any
printed copy. Thank you.
==============================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: electric trim |
Ted Cowan wrote:
<< Am having difficulty with grasping the wiring set up for the electric
trim. This employs the use of the motor from a battery powered (3volt)
electric screw driver, black and
decker. >>
Ted, and other intrepid Kolb experimenters:
I read about a fatal plane accident that employed this type of electric trim
mechanism, using an electric screwdriver motor. It was on a homebuilt light
aircraft, sometime in the past year or 2. Something in the motor/jackscrew
mechanism failed (I don't recall exact details) and the surface went to full
deflection, resulting in loss of control of the aircraft.
Not trying to disuade you from your plans to install it, just passing on
some info for thought. Be carful.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, Verner-1400 in
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
I'll be darn! That's neat and a real good idea. I called the guy. His name
is Bret Ray and has flown it on a Zenith. He is planning on flying it to
Daytona for "Biketoberfest" and said he will stop by my place and give me a
ride. For those who are interested, here are some numbers that are not on
the website. 100+ hp. 220 lbs 2200 rpm cruise, sells the complete package
for 8500 bucks. Not bad. He also said he tried the same engine I'm testing
but it almost shook the tail feathers off the plane.
The engine he is selling is the Twin Cam counterbalanced model. Way smoother
running engine and can be upgraded to 95 cu in real easy.
Wonder if my Kolbra could support 220 pound engine? hmmm
Thanks for the heads up Bill....
pp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rayfield, Bill" <brayfield(at)kcc.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Hog power
>
> Anybody seen this? I bet Paul Petty would be interested.
>
> www.hog-air.com
>
>
> Bill Rayfield
> Kimberly-Clark, Corp.
> Lexington Mill
> ph: 336-242-6653
> fax: 336-242-6633
>
>
> This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may
contain
> privileged, confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from
> disclosure under law. If you have received this message in error, please
> inform us promptly by reply e-mail, then delete the e-mail and destroy any
> printed copy. Thank you.
>
============================================================================
==
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
I've decided to put brakes on my old Firestar. I've flown all these years without
them, and about the only time I need them is taxiing downwind on a hard surface
or on a downgrade with a plane in front of me. It's a little embarassing
to go off on the grass and shut down the engine to avoid an accident.
Can any of you guys tell me if the Hegar axle will fit on the kolb gear leg without
any modifications? Do the Hegar internal disk brakes work with the offset
wheel (they sell two types, offset and symmetrical)?
How about the Azuza wheels and brakes, are there any problems with them?
I appreciate any help I can get, as I have written many posts over the years and
now need some of your help.
Thanks,
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
16 years flying it, and now want some brakes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: electric trim |
Along that same line, I would suggest a trim tab big enough to be helpful,
but small enough to be easily overpowered by a strong arm.
Several years ago, on my J-6, I used an electric screwdriver to raise and
lower the flaps. I just took out the forward/reverse switch that came on
the screwdriver and put the switch in a convenient spot, and used much
heavier gauge wire back to the motor/gearbox portion. Worked fine. By the
way, it was also a 3 volt system, and works fine on 12 volts. Faster, too...
It had no limit switches, just stop nuts on a threaded arm, when it got to
the stop nuts, it quit. But I could see when it was getting close. I assume
a similar thing would be true of a trim tab?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>Ted Cowan wrote:
><< Am having difficulty with grasping the wiring set up for the electric
>trim. This employs the use of the motor from a battery powered (3volt)
>electric screw driver, black and
>decker. >>
>
>Ted, and other intrepid Kolb experimenters:
>
>I read about a fatal plane accident that employed this type of electric trim
>mechanism, using an electric screwdriver motor. It was on a homebuilt light
>aircraft, sometime in the past year or 2. Something in the motor/jackscrew
>mechanism failed (I don't recall exact details) and the surface went to full
>deflection, resulting in loss of control of the aircraft.
>
>Not trying to disuade you from your plans to install it, just passing on
>some info for thought. Be carful.
>
>Dennis Kirby
>Mark-3, Verner-1400 in
>Cedar Crest, NM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Kolbers,
I stumbled across a website today www.mykitplanes.com and noticed that
TNK was not on their list. So I added them and the Kolbra model. I did
see Matronics listed. Looks like a pretty neat site and perhaps a quick
way to upload pic's and help TNK promote their product. Check it out...
pp
Kolbers,
I stumbled across a website today www.mykitplanes.com and noticed
thatTNK was not on their list. So I added them and the Kolbra
model. I did
see Matronics listed. Looks like a pretty neat site and perhaps a quick
way to
upload pic's and help TNK promote their product. Check it
out...
pp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
Well, I'm back home in 90-degree, 90% humid Florida, and while I'm
feeling pretty good about it, Honey B is back to rusting. This was my
first airplane, and I thought I did a decent job of sandblasting the
cage and spraying it with epoxy primer, but there are thin areas where
faint rust is showing, and some scrapes and scratches that I have to
attend to. Some of these scrapes are down in the bottom of the cage and
I'd like to sand down to bare metal and prime with something more rust
preventive than the PolyFibre Epoxy (which doesn't seem to adhere well
unless the surface is darn near perfect), then cover the inside of the
cage frame with PolyFiber tape, PolyBrush, and PolyTone. This would
keep moisture away from the tubing and be easer to keep clean . Any
suggestions on cleaners, primers, etc., that would be compatible with
the PolyFiber products? Thanks, guys.
Well, I'm back home in 90-degree, 90%
humid
Florida, and while I'm feeling pretty good about it, Honey B is back to
rusting. This was my first airplane, and I thought I did a decent
job of
sandblasting the cage and spraying it with epoxy primer, but there are
thin
areas where faint rust is showing, and some scrapes and scratches that I
have to
attend to. Some of these scrapes are down in the bottom of the
cage and
I'd like to sand down to bare metal and prime with something more rust
preventive than the PolyFibre Epoxy (which doesn't seem to adhere well
unless
the surface is darn near perfect), then cover the inside of the cage
frame with
PolyFiber tape, PolyBrush, and PolyTone. This would keep moisture
away
from the tubing and be easer to keep clean . Any suggestions on
cleaners,
primers, etc., that would be compatible with the PolyFiber
products?Thanks, guys.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BMWBikeCrz(at)aol.com |
If money was no object could a firestar be built entirely of titinium ,
covered with kevlar ,totaly streamlined ,retractable gear and be powered by a
(probibly non existant) turbo-prop engine .... oh well we can all dream ...LOL
....Dave
If money was no object could a firestar be built entirely of titinium , covered
with kevlar ,totaly streamlined ,retractable gear and be powered by a (probibly
non existant) turbo-prop engine .... oh well we can all dream ...LOL ....Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: brake questions |
Ralph,
I can't offer you any experience with the Hegar or Azuzu brake set ups, but
I am using Matco units on my Mk-3 and they are Great.
Fellow lister John Richmond had a set from the Mk-3 he was parting out a
couple weeks ago, you might want to check with him to see if he still has
em.
I was thinking about buying them for my next project, (Sonex) but I figured
I had better wait awile as Linda would kill me if I started building another
plane so soon.
Take Care,
Denny Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: brake questions
>
>
> I've decided to put brakes on my old Firestar. I've flown all these years
without them, and about the only time I need them is taxiing downwind on a
hard surface or on a downgrade with a plane in front of me. It's a little
embarassing to go off on the grass and shut down the engine to avoid an
accident.
>
> Can any of you guys tell me if the Hegar axle will fit on the kolb gear
leg without any modifications? Do the Hegar internal disk brakes work with
the offset wheel (they sell two types, offset and symmetrical)?
>
> How about the Azuza wheels and brakes, are there any problems with them?
>
> I appreciate any help I can get, as I have written many posts over the
years and now need some of your help.
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Burlingame
> Original Firestar
> 16 years flying it, and now want some brakes
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hugh" <hmhumes(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: mykitplane.com |
I believe that's www.mykitplane.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: mykitplane.com
>
>
> Kolbers,
> I stumbled across a website today www.mykitplanes.com and noticed that
> TNK was not on their list. So I added them and the Kolbra model. I did
> see Matronics listed. Looks like a pretty neat site and perhaps a quick
> way to upload pic's and help TNK promote their product. Check it out...
>
> pp
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Kolbers,
> I stumbled across a website today href"http://www.mykitplanes.com">www.mykitplanes.com and noticed
> thatTNK was not on their list. So I added them and the Kolbra
> model. I did
> see Matronics listed. Looks like a pretty neat site and perhaps a quick
> way to
> upload pic's and help TNK promote their product. Check it
> out...
>
> pp
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Aileron and flap Gap tapes, WOW! |
Kolbers,
OK, I finally broke down today and installed the book binding tapes in
the gaps between the wing, ailerons, and flaps. Well truth be told,
Linda did it while I changed spark plugs and pretended to be busy, :-) I
hate that arts and crafts type of work.
Upon taking off for the first time with the tapes I was astounded at the
change in performance of my Mk-3. It feels as if someone released the
emergency brake and installed power steering.
The climb rate is close to 200 fpm better solo, the roll response is way
quicker and much lighter, the sink rate is slower, and one notch of
flaps feels like it used to with no flaps. The plane even floats a
little on round out to landing, before it would just pretty much stop as
soon as you rounded out.
I ran her up to full throttle in level flight solo and actually saw
90mph, thats 8 mph more than I had before installing the tapes.
Now I am wondering how the factory guys at TNK were able to install
their tapes so nicely with no fingerprints and bubbles?
I am going to try to locate white book binding tapes to replace these
clear ones, figure that way the prints won't show.
Sincerely,
Denny (Now I understand how a Kolb is supposed to handle) Rowe
Mk-3 N616DR, 2SI 690L-70, PA
PS: We used the 3M 845, 3 inch wide with the 1.5 inch face to face with
it.
Kolbers,
OK, I finally broke down today and
installed the
book binding tapes in the gaps between the wing, ailerons, and flaps.
Well truth
be told, Linda did it while I changed spark plugs and pretended to be
busy, :-)
I hate that arts and crafts type of work.
Upon taking off for the first time with
the tapes I
was astounded at the change in performance of my Mk-3. It feels as if
someone
released the emergency brake and installed power steering.
The climb rate is close to 200 fpm
better solo, the
roll response is way quicker and much lighter, the sink rate is slower,
and one
notch of flaps feels like it used to with no flaps. The plane even
floats
a little on round out to landing, before it would just pretty much stop
as soon
as you rounded out.
I ran her up to full throttle in level
flight solo
and actually saw 90mph, thats 8 mph more than I had before installing
the
tapes.
Now I am wondering how the factory guys
at TNK were
able to install their tapes so nicely with no fingerprints and
bubbles?
I am going to try to locate white book
binding
tapes to replace these clear ones, figure that way the prints won't
show.
Sincerely,
Denny (Now I understand how a Kolb is
supposed to
handle) Rowe
Mk-3 N616DR, 2SI 690L-70,
PA
PS: We used the 3M 845, 3
inchwide with the
1.5 inch face to face with it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan green" <lgreen1(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: brake questions |
I would like to know about this also since I went into a friends short field
lately and had to go between the fence post and down towards the barn to
stop. How about the hydraulic brakes?
Bryan Green (Elgin SC)
----- Original Message -----
From: <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: brake questions
>
>
> I've decided to put brakes on my old Firestar. I've flown all these years
without them, and about the only time I need them is taxiing downwind on a
hard surface or on a downgrade with a plane in front of me. It's a little
embarassing to go off on the grass and shut down the engine to avoid an
accident.
>
> Can any of you guys tell me if the Hegar axle will fit on the kolb gear
leg without any modifications? Do the Hegar internal disk brakes work with
the offset wheel (they sell two types, offset and symmetrical)?
>
> How about the Azuza wheels and brakes, are there any problems with them?
>
> I appreciate any help I can get, as I have written many posts over the
years and now need some of your help.
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Burlingame
> Original Firestar
> 16 years flying it, and now want some brakes
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: brake questions |
I am using the Azusa go-cart brake drums & backing plates, they work just
fair on the MKIII, probably real well on something lighter.
Wicks Aircraft sells them,. page 158 on their online catalog,
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/gotopage.php?page=158
I have mine bolted to the original Kolb steel wheels, it took some careful
jigging to get the bolt holes drilled in the right places, probably much
easier if I had used the Azusa wheels.
You need part #'s AZ2208A backing plate, AZ2211 drum, and AZ2259A mounting
platform to make it fit on the Kolb wheel, if you use the Azusa wheel, you
probably don't need the platform. Plus you need some stop nuts and cable
adjusters, at the bottom right side of the page.
Low tech stuff, but no problems in 350+ hours. I am using a handle pivoted
at the bottom, alongside my left thigh, and pull the brakes with my left
hand. This winter I will probably change the one handle to two so I have
individual brakes, right now both cables are tied together at the handle,
but flying (and taxiing) Steve Green's MKIII with individual brakes spoiled
me....
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>I've decided to put brakes on my old Firestar. I've flown all these years
>without them, and about the only time I need them is taxiing downwind on a
>hard surface or on a downgrade with a plane in front of me. It's a little
>embarassing to go off on the grass and shut down the engine to avoid an
>accident.
>
>Can any of you guys tell me if the Hegar axle will fit on the kolb gear
>leg without any modifications? Do the Hegar internal disk brakes work with
>the offset wheel (they sell two types, offset and symmetrical)?
>
>How about the Azuza wheels and brakes, are there any problems with them?
>
>I appreciate any help I can get, as I have written many posts over the
>years and now need some of your help.
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph Burlingame
>Original Firestar
>16 years flying it, and now want some brakes
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: brake questions |
----- Original Message -----
From: bryan green <lgreen1(at)sc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: brake questions
>
> I would like to know about this also since I went into a friends short
field
> lately and had to go between the fence post and down towards the barn to
> stop. How about the hydraulic brakes?
> Bryan Green
Bryan,
The Matco hydralic disks are sweet.
Denny Rowe
Mk-3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: brake questions |
Vamoose' Matco wheels, tires, extra tires, brakes, and aluminum landing gear
legs will be for sale very soon. All are new..........sorta. Tires are
6.00x6. Anyone ?? What do you guys figure a fair price would be ??
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <rowedl(at)highstream.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: brake questions
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: bryan green <lgreen1(at)sc.rr.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: brake questions
>
>
> >
> > I would like to know about this also since I went into a friends short
> field
> > lately and had to go between the fence post and down towards the barn to
> > stop. How about the hydraulic brakes?
> > Bryan Green
>
> Bryan,
> The Matco hydralic disks are sweet.
> Denny Rowe
> Mk-3
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: brake questions |
I have Azusa wheels and had their drum brakes too, when new. This on a
FS, and I still really disliked them. Took them off early in my
plane's life. They weren't concentric so smooth brake pressure was
unattainable, and even when they grabbed every time around, the
stopping force was pretty poor. Weighing about 7lbs if I recall, this
wasn't worth it.
I made very light brakes and although recently reported they were
terrible, they are not so bad after minor adjustment a few weeks ago.
Nonetheless, I'm going to upgrade too. I was thinking of trying some
"Avid" cable disk brakes (for mtn bikes), but decided instead to try
some band brakes from www.northerntool.com for about $20 per side (if
interested, search on band brakes at that site.) The Avids get rave
reviews from the bike people and are super light, but I'm guessing the
band brakes might be more effective, especially at our taxi speed.
They are cable actuated, probably lighter than the Azusa drum brakes,
and reportedly, there is noticable "regenerative" braking effect by
having the band being pulled in the same direction of rotation as the
drum. I'll need to weld a cable stop mount to my axle fittings. I'll
report back after installing and trying them out.
-Ben
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David & Maria Lumgair" <dlummy(at)visi.net> |
Most primers are not good sealers and need paint to prevent rust. I had a
friend who was an excellent body reapirman back in my hot rodding days and
he used to laugh at the guys who drove their cars in primer grey before
painting because it would allow moisture at seep in. I'm not sure if this
applies to epoxy primers.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Rust
>
>
> Well, I'm back home in 90-degree, 90% humid Florida, and while I'm
> feeling pretty good about it, Honey B is back to rusting. This was my
> first airplane, and I thought I did a decent job of sandblasting the
> cage and spraying it with epoxy primer, but there are thin areas where
> faint rust is showing, and some scrapes and scratches that I have to
> attend to. Some of these scrapes are down in the bottom of the cage and
> I'd like to sand down to bare metal and prime with something more rust
> preventive than the PolyFibre Epoxy (which doesn't seem to adhere well
> unless the surface is darn near perfect), then cover the inside of the
> cage frame with PolyFiber tape, PolyBrush, and PolyTone. This would
> keep moisture away from the tubing and be easer to keep clean . Any
> suggestions on cleaners, primers, etc., that would be compatible with
> the PolyFiber products? Thanks, guys.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Well, I'm back home in 90-degree, 90%
> humid
> Florida, and while I'm feeling pretty good about it, Honey B is back to
> rusting. This was my first airplane, and I thought I did a decent
> job of
> sandblasting the cage and spraying it with epoxy primer, but there are
> thin
> areas where faint rust is showing, and some scrapes and scratches that I
> have to
> attend to. Some of these scrapes are down in the bottom of the
> cage and
> I'd like to sand down to bare metal and prime with something more rust
> preventive than the PolyFibre Epoxy (which doesn't seem to adhere well
> unless
> the surface is darn near perfect), then cover the inside of the cage
> frame with
> PolyFiber tape, PolyBrush, and PolyTone. This would keep moisture
> away
> from the tubing and be easer to keep clean . Any suggestions on
> cleaners,
> primers, etc., that would be compatible with the PolyFiber
> products?Thanks, guys.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gherkins Tim-rp3420 <rp3420(at)motorola.com> |
Ralph,
Always enjoy reading your posts.
I am finishing up on building a Firestar II, and my last big purchase is to buy
the ultralight MATCO brake set at Aircraft Spruce. Pricey at 512.00, but I wanted
a good hydraulic disk brake. I have already welded up neat little removable
toe brake peddles on my rudder peddles. I have installed one pre-bought
Master brake cylinder on one side and the other cylinder will come with the wheel
kit. I guess I heard too many sad/sorry stories about other brakes.
However, I did have my sites set on a neat brake unit made by Tracy O'Brien. John
Williamson just replaced his O'Brien brakes with some MATCO's. He reported
that he liked the O'Brien's and had no problem with them. Just that the Kolbra
was too heavy for their stopping power. But should work great on firestars.
Look up John Williamsons site and see the upgrades section, and you can see
the pictures of the O'Brien's. Maybe make a deal for his used O'Brien's.
Good luck and let us know what you will go with.
Tim Gherkins
Phx, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com [mailto:ul15rhb(at)juno.com]
Subject: Kolb-List: brake questions
I've decided to put brakes on my old Firestar. I've flown all these years without
them, and about the only time I need them is taxiing downwind on a hard surface
or on a downgrade with a plane in front of me. It's a little embarassing
to go off on the grass and shut down the engine to avoid an accident.
Can any of you guys tell me if the Hegar axle will fit on the kolb gear leg without
any modifications? Do the Hegar internal disk brakes work with the offset
wheel (they sell two types, offset and symmetrical)?
How about the Azuza wheels and brakes, are there any problems with them?
I appreciate any help I can get, as I have written many posts over the years and
now need some of your help.
Thanks,
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
16 years flying it, and now want some brakes
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Guy Morgan" <morganguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Howdy folks. I work for a helicopter company on the Texas Gulf coast, so I'm
pretty familiar with corrosion prevention and treatment. Here's how we treat
corrosion, or prep metal for painting:
1. Remove old finish. I don't recommend sand blasting. You can get away with
using plastic media, or even glass beads, but blasting creates alot of heat.
Not good for airframes. We use a chemical stripper made by Turco. It make take
a little longer, it's messy, and it burns like a SOB if you get it on you, but
it will not damage the metal and it's water soluable. You just brush it on,
wait a few minutes, and rinse it off. You can speed up the process by scrubbing
it with a plastic brush after you apply it. It'll take a few applications
to remove all the paint.
2. Treat the metal. For aluminum; scuff it with Scotch-brite, then etch it with
Alumi-prep, rinse well, dry, then chemically treat it with Alodine. For steel
I use Steel-prep after scuffing. Both procedures chemically convert the surface
of the metal to provide better paint adhesion, and prevent corrosion.
3. Primer. Spend a little extra and get a good aviation grade primer. It will
be well worth it and your paint job will last at least 2 or 3 times as long
if not more. I use PRCDesoto Fluid Resistant Epoxy Primer. They even make
a self etching primer so you can theoretically skip step 2. I don't trust it
though. I always treat the metal. This primer is awesome. It dries fast, covers
in 2 coats, and is extremely easy to shoot and work with.
4. Paint. Scuff the primer before you paint then wipe it about 50 times with
MEK, Final Wash, acetone, or whatever. You cannot clean it too much. Prep and
cleanliness is 90% of a good paint job. We use several different paints because
when we buy a helicopter it's usually painted with some oddball brand and it's
easier just to keep it original. Mainly we use Imron, RM, and PRC Desoto.
Before shooting paint, get the tech sheets for whatever you're using. Most companies
have a fax-back number you can call to get them within minutes.
Hope this helps. I guess you can tell, I'm pretty anal when it comes to aviation.
It's mainly because I'm the one fixing someone else's crappy paint jobwhen
itbubbles or flakes after a couple of months because it wasn't
done right. My work lasts foryears, even operating offshore from Galveston,
which is one of the harshest environments there is.
Take care,
Guy
--Eat one live toad first thing in the morning
and nothing
worse will happen to you the rest of the day.
Well, I'm back home in 90-degree, 90% humid Florida, and while
I'm
feeling pretty good about it, Honey B is back to rusting.
This was my
first airplane, and I thought I did a decent job of sandblasting
the
cage and spraying it with epoxy primer, but there are thin
areas where
faint rust is showing, and some scrapes and scratches that
I have to
attend to. Some of these scrapes are down in the bottom of
the cage and
I'd like to sand down to bare metal and prime with something
more rust
preventive than the PolyFibre Epoxy (which doesn't seem to
adhere well
unless the surface is darn near perfect), then cover the inside
of the
cage frame with PolyFiber tape, PolyBrush, and PolyTone. This
would
keep moisture away from the tubing and be easer to keep clean
. Any
suggestions on cleaners, primers, etc., that would be compatible
with
the PolyFiber products? Thanks, guys.
Well, I'm back home in 90-degree, 90%
humid
Florida, and while I'm feeling pretty good about it, Honey
B is back to
rusting. This was my first airplane, and I thought I
did a decent
job of
sandblasting the cage and spraying it with epoxy primer, but
there are
thin
areas where faint rust is showing, and some scrapes and scratches
that I
have to
attend to. Some of these scrapes are down in the bottom
of the
cage and
I'd like to sand down to bare metal and prime with something
more rust
preventive than the PolyFibre Epoxy (which doesn't seem to
adhere well
unless
the surface is darn near perfect), then cover the inside of
the cage
frame with
PolyFiber tape, PolyBrush, and PolyTone. This would
keep moisture
away
from the tubing and be easer to keep clean . Any suggestions
on
cleaners,
primers, etc., that would be compatible with the PolyFiber
products?Thanks, guys.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Guy Morgan" <morganguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Howdy folks. I work for a helicopter company on the Texas Gulf coast, so I'm
pretty familiar with corrosion prevention and treatment. Here's how we treat
corrosion, or prep metal for painting:
1. Remove old finish. I don't recommend sand blasting. You can get away with
using plastic media, or even glass beads, but blasting creates alot of heat.
Not good for airframes. We use a chemical stripper made by Turco. It make take
a little longer, it's messy, and it burns like a SOB if you get it on you, but
it will not damage the metal and it's water soluable. You just brush it on,
wait a few minutes, and rinse it off. You can speed up the process by scrubbing
it with a plastic brush after you apply it. It'll take a few applications
to remove all the paint.
2. Treat the metal. For aluminum; scuff it with Scotch-brite, then etch it with
Alumi-prep, rinse well, dry, then chemically treat it with Alodine. For steel
I use Steel-prep after scuffing. Both procedures chemically convert the surface
of the metal to provide better paint adhesion, and prevent corrosion.
3. Primer. Spend a little extra and get a good aviation grade primer. It will
be well worth it and your paint job will last at least 2 or 3 times as long
if not more. I use PRCDesoto Fluid Resistant Epoxy Primer. They even make
a self etching primer so you can theoretically skip step 2. I don't trust it
though. I always treat the metal. This primer is awesome. It dries fast, covers
in 2 coats, and is extremely easy to shoot and work with.
4. Paint. Scuff the primer before you paint then wipe it about 50 times with
MEK, Final Wash, acetone, or whatever. You cannot clean it too much. Prep and
cleanliness is 90% of a good paint job. We use several different paints because
when we buy a helicopter it's usually painted with some oddball brand and it's
easier just to keep it original. Mainly we use Imron, RM, and PRC Desoto.
Before shooting paint, get the tech sheets for whatever you're using. Most companies
have a fax-back number you can call to get them within minutes.
Hope this helps. I guess you can tell, I'm pretty anal when it comes to aviation.
It's mainly because I'm the one fixing someone else's crappy paint jobwhen
itbubbles or flakes after a couple of months because it wasn't
done right. My work lasts foryears, even operating offshore from Galveston,
which is one of the harshest environments there is.
Take care,
Guy
--Eat one live toad first thing in the morning and nothing
worse will happen to you the rest of the day.
Well, I'm back home in 90-degree, 90% humid Florida, and while
I'm
feeling pretty good about it, Honey B is back to rusting.
This was my
first airplane, and I thought I did a decent job of sandblasting
the
cage and spraying it with epoxy primer, but there are thin
areas where
faint rust is showing, and some scrapes and scratches that
I have to
attend to. Some of these scrapes are down in the bottom of
the cage and
I'd like to sand down to bare metal and prime with something
more rust
preventive than the PolyFibre Epoxy (which doesn't seem to
adhere well
unless the surface is darn near perfect), then cover the inside
of the
cage frame with PolyFiber tape, PolyBrush, and PolyTone. This
would
keep moisture away from the tubing and be easer to keep clean
. Any
suggestions on cleaners, primers, etc., that would be compatible
with
the PolyFiber products? Thanks, guys.
Well, I'm back home in 90-degree, 90%
humid
Florida, and while I'm feeling pretty good about it, Honey
B is back to
rusting. This was my first airplane, and I thought I
did a decent
job of
sandblasting the cage and spraying it with epoxy primer, but
there are
thin
areas where faint rust is showing, and some scrapes and scratches
that I
have to
attend to. Some of these scrapes are down in the bottom
of the
cage and
I'd like to sand down to bare metal and prime with something
more rust
preventive than the PolyFibre Epoxy (which doesn't seem to
adhere well
unless
the surface is darn near perfect), then cover the inside of
the cage
frame with
PolyFiber tape, PolyBrush, and PolyTone. This would
keep moisture
away
from the tubing and be easer to keep clean . Any suggestions
on
cleaners,
primers, etc., that would be compatible with the PolyFiber
products?Thanks, guys.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Headset/armrest cushion |
Monday evening, the Good Lookin' Old Poop & I were out MKIII sightseeing
and each noticed a problem. After about 45 minutes, the headset cushion was
getting uncomfortable over the top of the head. Last night, during a foray
to Wally World, discovered that they sell headset cushions in their
automotive department. They have foolishly mislabeled them as "Outback Seat
Belt Shoulder Pads", but I found them anyway, and they work great. $2.96 a
pop.
If you wrap a piece of insulating foam around the aileron actuating tube
that Kolb has misplaced as a MKIII armrest, you can wrap a Headset Pad
around it and it fits perfectly, looks like it was designed for it, and is
much more comfortable than the steel tube.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ron wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
| Subject: | thinking in the rain |
as it don't rain much round here, I was sittin' in my hanger looking at
my US, and thinking !! wonder how a cage would be if made from sheet
alum.W/ sides and a windshield maybe even doors?? course built with the
correct structures. "nose gear" basically get away from the welding of
tubing, riveted structure, I know I have been thinking way too much in
the WONDERFUL RAIN. idea's guys blast away. who knows I may get onto my
cad prog's tonite and play????
as it don't rain much round here, I was
sittin' in
my hanger looking at my US, and thinking !! wonder how a cage would be
ifmade from sheet alum.W/ sides and a windshield maybe even
doors??course built with the correct structures. "nose gear"
basically get
away from the welding of tubing, riveted structure, I know I have been
thinking
way too much in the WONDERFUL RAIN. idea's guys blast away. who knows I
may get
onto my cad prog's tonite and
play????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: brake questions |
Give ya 10 bucks. If you don't like the offer you should just keep the darn
things, quit monkeying around changing things and get Vamouse flying. :)
>
>
> Vamoose' Matco wheels, tires, extra tires, brakes, and aluminum landing
gear
> legs will be for sale very soon. All are new..........sorta. Tires are
> 6.00x6. Anyone ?? What do you guys figure a fair price would be ??
> Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron and flap Gap tapes, WOW! |
I still do not understand the big fuss about book binding tape( Costly,
hard to find and needs replacing). Ask the Millers how they do it. Simple,
Free and permanent.
> > 90mph, thats 8 mph more than I had before installing the tapes.
> > Now I am wondering how the factory guys at TNK were able to install
> > their tapes so nicely with no fingerprints and bubbles?
> > I am going to try to locate white book binding tapes to replace these
> > clear ones, figure that way the prints won't show.
> > Sincerely,
> >
> > Denny (Now I understand how a Kolb is supposed to handle) Rowe
> >
> > Mk-3 N616DR, 2SI 690L-70, PA
> >
> > PS: We used the 3M 845, 3 inch wide with the 1.5 inch face to face with
> > it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: brake questions |
Is that all inflation is up to by now ?? Sheeeeeessshhh ! ! ! Do
not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: brake questions
>
> Give ya 10 bucks. If you don't like the offer you should just keep the
darn
> things, quit monkeying around changing things and get Vamouse flying. :)
>
> >
> >
> > Vamoose' Matco wheels, tires, extra tires, brakes, and aluminum landing
> gear
> > legs will be for sale very soon. All are new..........sorta. Tires are
> > 6.00x6. Anyone ?? What do you guys figure a fair price would be ??
> > Lar.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Ledbetter <gdledbetter(at)earthlink.net> |
Folks,
I recently had my first flat tire on my Firefly which will be 3 years
old in November. The taiwan tube seemed to be in the early states of
rot and had opened up on the side.
Yesterday I was flying around my airport and on my second landing, the
right tire BLEW!! The landing was smooth and fortunately I was able to
keep from nosing over thru superior airmanship. Actually, I'll take
luck over skill every time.
I installed two new tires and tubes today and would advise anyone who
might be flying on Taiwan tires and tubes to replace them before they
are 3 years old since I had problems with both left and right sides
within a week of each other.... I had already planned on replacing
them but the road to hell is still paved with good intentions.
Gene Ledbetter
Cincinnati
Firefly - 245 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ron wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly Blowout |
I didn't know the taiwanian's could read a calender that close!!,sorry you
left yourself open!!glad you got it stopped a-ok.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene Ledbetter" <gdledbetter(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Firefly Blowout
>
> Folks,
> I recently had my first flat tire on my Firefly which will be 3 years
> old in November. The taiwan tube seemed to be in the early states of
> rot and had opened up on the side.
> Yesterday I was flying around my airport and on my second landing, the
> right tire BLEW!! The landing was smooth and fortunately I was able to
> keep from nosing over thru superior airmanship. Actually, I'll take
> luck over skill every time.
> I installed two new tires and tubes today and would advise anyone who
> might be flying on Taiwan tires and tubes to replace them before they
> are 3 years old since I had problems with both left and right sides
> within a week of each other.... I had already planned on replacing
> them but the road to hell is still paved with good intentions.
>
> Gene Ledbetter
> Cincinnati
> Firefly - 245 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: thinking in the rain |
Couple things to keep in mind. Draw it out first to scale in all views.
Build it to the drawing. It is a lot easier to change things with a pencil.
I find it easy to join two bars of soap together and then carve out the
shape I want. I can visualize in 3d better than in 2d. A curved (convex)
surface looks better than a flat surface. Use the same pattern to cut left
and right sides even on the top part where you will be tempted to use one
big pattern. Personally I would prefer to make it out of blue styrofaom and
epoxy fiberglass rather than sheet aluminum.
>
> as it don't rain much round here, I was sittin' in my hanger looking at
> my US, and thinking !! wonder how a cage would be if made from sheet
> alum.W/ sides and a windshield maybe even doors?? course built with the
> correct structures. "nose gear" basically get away from the welding of
> tubing, riveted structure, I know I have been thinking way too much in
> the WONDERFUL RAIN. idea's guys blast away. who knows I may get onto my
> cad prog's tonite and play????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly Blowout |
Was it a Shinn tire. I noticed a couple weeks ago that one of ours is dry
rotting. About 6 years old and kept in a hangar out of the sun.
jerb
>
>Folks,
>I recently had my first flat tire on my Firefly which will be 3 years
>old in November. The taiwan tube seemed to be in the early states of
>rot and had opened up on the side.
>Yesterday I was flying around my airport and on my second landing, the
>right tire BLEW!! The landing was smooth and fortunately I was able to
>keep from nosing over thru superior airmanship. Actually, I'll take
>luck over skill every time.
>I installed two new tires and tubes today and would advise anyone who
>might be flying on Taiwan tires and tubes to replace them before they
>are 3 years old since I had problems with both left and right sides
>within a week of each other.... I had already planned on replacing
>them but the road to hell is still paved with good intentions.
>
>Gene Ledbetter
>Cincinnati
>Firefly - 245 hours
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | george murphy <geomurphy(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | remove oil mix from 582 |
I have a problem with my 582 dripping oil from the carb filter when I leave
it sitting for a week. The mix system has always worked just fine except
for the constant drip. I want to remove the entire mix system and just mix
the oil myself. Is there any thing special that I may need to know before I
take the hammer to it? Can't seem to find much reference to this problem
in the archives.
Thanks, G.Murphy / 80's vintage Firestar / Alpine Al
I have a problem with my 582 dripping oil from the carb
filter when I leave it sitting for a week. The mix system has always worked
just fine except for the constant drip. I want to remove the entire mix system
and just mix the oil myself. Is there any thing special that I may need to
know
before I take the hammer to it? Cant seem to find much reference
to
this problem in the archives.
Thanks, G.Murphy / 80s vintage Firestar / Alpine
Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | george murphy <geomurphy(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | remove oil mix from 582 |
I have a problem with my 582 dripping oil from the carb filter when I leave
it sitting for a week. The mix system has always worked just fine except
for the constant drip. I want to remove the entire mix system and just mix
the oil myself. Is there any thing special that I may need to know before I
take the hammer to it? Can't seem to find much reference to this problem
in the archives.
Thanks, G.Murphy / 80's vintage Firestar / Alpine Al
I have a problem with my 582 dripping oil from the carb
filter when I leave it sitting for a week. The mix system has always
worked just fine except for the constant drip. I want to remove the entire mix
system and just mix the oil myself. Is there any thing special that I may
need to know before I take the hammer to it? Cant seem to
find much reference to this problem in the archives.
Thanks, G.Murphy / 80s vintage Firestar /
Alpine Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rayfield, Bill" <brayfield(at)kcc.com> |
| Subject: | remove oil mix from 582 |
You say a 582 and your signature says you have a firestar....
Is the 582 on the firestar, or on something else?
-----Original Message-----
From: george murphy [mailto:geomurphy(at)direcway.com]
Subject: Kolb-List: remove oil mix from 582
I have a problem with my 582 dripping oil from the carb filter when I leave
it sitting for a week. The mix system has always worked just fine except
for the constant drip. I want to remove the entire mix system and just mix
the oil myself. Is there any thing special that I may need to know before I
take the hammer to it? Can't seem to find much reference to this problem
in the archives.
Thanks, G.Murphy / 80's vintage Firestar / Alpine Al
I have a problem with my 582 dripping oil from the carb
filter when I leave it sitting for a week. The mix system has always
worked just fine except for the constant drip. I want to remove the entire
mix
system and just mix the oil myself. Is there any thing special that I
may
need to know before I take the hammer to it? Cant seem to
find much reference to this problem in the archives.
Thanks, G.Murphy / 80s vintage Firestar /
Alpine Al
This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain
privileged, confidential, or proprietary information that is exempt from
disclosure under law. If you have received this message in error, please
inform us promptly by reply e-mail, then delete the e-mail and destroy any
printed copy. Thank you.
==============================================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi(at)supernet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: remove oil mix from 582 |
george murphy wrote:
>
>
> I have a problem with my 582 dripping oil from the carb filter when I leave
> it sitting for a week. The mix system has always worked just fine except
> for the constant drip. I want to remove the entire mix system and just mix
> the oil myself. Is there any thing special that I may need to know before I
> take the hammer to it? Can't seem to find much reference to this problem
> in the archives.
George,
I don't think that removing the oil injection system is going to fix the
dripping problem that you are describing. We do not have the injection
system on our 582 and it also drips or drains when sitting. I think the
reason that ours drains is because at a certain throttle setting and rpm
the fuel mixture will "flash back" or spray out the carb. and then get
sucked back in. However before the mixture gets sucked back in the oil
in the mixture may soak into the filter but the gas will evaporate
again. Then when you park the plane the oil drains out and drips on the
plane ;-( ! I think if the injection system was leaking it would flow
into the crankcase instead of the filter? If I'm wrong on this I would
also like to know how to fix it because ours has been dripping on the
wing for years and I just lay a rag under the carbs. when I park the
plane. -- I think the only REAL fix is to use the "right" oil the good
stuff only goes one way (in the engine) and will never leak!! ;-) Just
Kidding! -- Earl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: remove oil mix from 582 |
George & Earl
I posted this earlier, and may be it is the solution for your problem.
"Also, I am getting tired of washing the FireFly tail surfaces to remove oil/fuel
that has been dribbling from the air filter while taxiing back to or from the
hangar. I placed a bib inside the air filter and attached it to the Bing inlet.
The bib prevents back flow fuel and oil from falling inside the air cleaner.
How it was done can be seen on the bottom of:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly90.html"
I have several hours on the engine since doing this and there has been no dribble
and no need to wash oil off the wing or tail surfaces.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>george murphy wrote:
>>
>>
>> I have a problem with my 582 dripping oil from the carb filter when I leave
>> it sitting for a week. The mix system has always worked just fine except
>> for the constant drip. I want to remove the entire mix system and just mix
>> the oil myself. Is there any thing special that I may need to know before I
>> take the hammer to it? Can't seem to find much reference to this problem
>> in the archives.
>
>George,
>I don't think that removing the oil injection system is going to fix the
>dripping problem that you are describing. We do not have the injection
>system on our 582 and it also drips or drains when sitting. I think the
>reason that ours drains is because at a certain throttle setting and rpm
>the fuel mixture will "flash back" or spray out the carb. and then get
>sucked back in. However before the mixture gets sucked back in the oil
>in the mixture may soak into the filter but the gas will evaporate
>again. Then when you park the plane the oil drains out and drips on the
>plane ;-( ! I think if the injection system was leaking it would flow
>into the crankcase instead of the filter? If I'm wrong on this I would
>also like to know how to fix it because ours has been dripping on the
>wing for years and I just lay a rag under the carbs. when I park the
>plane. -- I think the only REAL fix is to use the "right" oil the good
>stuff only goes one way (in the engine) and will never leak!! ;-) Just
>Kidding! -- Earl
>
>
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: remove oil mix from 582 |
I paid my way through college working as a line boy, and quickly learned
that every Twin Beech (BE-18) that was ever made dripped oil on the ramp.
We kept a stack of coffee cans with wire hangars attached to them in a pile
in the hangar, and whenever we parked a Twin Beech that was planning to
stay for more than a short time, it got 4 cans. One under the air intake
and another at the back of the cowl.
Moral of the story: airplanes drip oil. Don't sweat it, don't remove a
useful system, just make a catch can and go on.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>I have a problem with my 582 dripping oil from the carb filter when I leave
>it sitting for a week. The mix system has always worked just fine except
>for the constant drip. I want to remove the entire mix system and just mix
>the oil myself. Is there any thing special that I may need to know before I
>take the hammer to it? Can't seem to find much reference to this problem
>in the archives.
>
>Thanks, G.Murphy / 80's vintage Firestar / Alpine Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Harrison" <firestarii(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: brake questions |
Contact Greg Waligroski or look up his posts in the archives. He put
lightweight disk brakes from a mountain bike on his FS I. Seemed to work
well for him and he said they were very light.
I also have a friend who has a set of wheels from an original Firestar for
sale that have the internal drum brakes. According to him they are not
strong brakes, but they do the job for ground handling and taxiing. You
couldn't do a full-power runup with them.
>From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Kolb-List: brake questions
>Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2003 17:39:45 GMT
>
>
>I've decided to put brakes on my old Firestar. I've flown all these years
>without them, and about the only time I need them is taxiing downwind on a
>hard surface or on a downgrade with a plane in front of me. It's a little
>embarassing to go off on the grass and shut down the engine to avoid an
>accident.
>
>Can any of you guys tell me if the Hegar axle will fit on the kolb gear leg
>without any modifications? Do the Hegar internal disk brakes work with the
>offset wheel (they sell two types, offset and symmetrical)?
>
>How about the Azuza wheels and brakes, are there any problems with them?
>
>I appreciate any help I can get, as I have written many posts over the
>years and now need some of your help.
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph Burlingame
>Original Firestar
>16 years flying it, and now want some brakes
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Richard.
My Original Firestar never leaks anything. If it did, I would be very concerned.
It stays in the garage and I would see evidence on the floor. I don't have oil
injection either.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
16 years flying it
-- Richard Pike wrote:
I paid my way through college working as a line boy, and quickly learned
that every Twin Beech (BE-18) that was ever made dripped oil on the ramp.
We kept a stack of coffee cans with wire hangars attached to them in a pile
in the hangar, and whenever we parked a Twin Beech that was planning to
stay for more than a short time, it got 4 cans. One under the air intake
and another at the back of the cowl.
Moral of the story: airplanes drip oil. Don't sweat it, don't remove a
useful system, just make a catch can and go on.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>I have a problem with my 582 dripping oil from the carb filter when I leave
>it sitting for a week. The mix system has always worked just fine except
>for the constant drip. I want to remove the entire mix system and just mix
>the oil myself. Is there any thing special that I may need to know before I
>take the hammer to it? Can't seem to find much reference to this problem
>in the archives.
>
>Thanks, G.Murphy / 80's vintage Firestar / Alpine Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James, Ken" <KDJames(at)berkscareer.com> |
Is anyone flying with a HKS 700e Power plant?
If so you can contact me on or off the site, I have the usual questions.
Ken
Kdjames(at)berkscareer.com
HKS 700e
Is anyone flying with a HKS 700e Power plant?
If so you can contact me on or off the site, I have the usual questions.
Ken
Kdjames(at)berkscareer.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
Has other list members noticed that some messages appearing now has the
text of the message repeated twice, like an echo.
Is this associated to what the user is doing or the mail program being used?
Has this developed since Matt has added additional virus protection?
jerb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Y'all--My ISP has some kinda major problems. Said my mailbox was "too
full"--had 98 msgs plus "several with multi-mag pictures." If anyone has
sent me anything in last three day, pls wait a coupla days and resend.
I'm on aux. site now.
thanks,
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Message Echos |
| From: | Gene Ledbetter <gdledbetter(at)earthlink.net> |
My Mac doesn't have this problem....
Gene
On Thursday, Oct 9, 2003, at 15:33 US/Eastern, jerb wrote:
>
> Has other list members noticed that some messages appearing now has the
> text of the message repeated twice, like an echo.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron and flap Gap tapes, WOW! |
Woody wrote>
>
> I still do not understand the big fuss about book binding tape( Costly,
> hard to find and needs replacing). Ask the Millers how they do it. Simple,
> Free and permanent
>
Woody,
I am famialar with how Jim and Dondi do the tapes, however, I chose to paint
the aircraft before installing the control surfaces and decided that the
clear tape solution would be best for me. If I ever need to remove the
control surfaces, the tapes will not be a big deal.
Expensive? I am one of the biggest cheapskates on this list and I did not
think the 3M tape was pricey at all.
Differant strokes ;;;
Sincerely
Denny Rowe
Mk-3 PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Message Echos |
Jerry, I have had a few of the "repeats" as you describe..but not from
everyone...and I have also has some of the Formatting stuff come thru after
a message..again..not on all , but on a few..kinda strange.
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Clayton <jspc78(at)yahoo.com> |
The "echos" are HTML. Some e-mail clients send
messages in both plain text and HTML (Often Microsoft
products, and many webmail services: Yahoo, Hotmail
etc.). Perhaps the Matronics list servers
were/could-be stripping the html content. For
Microsoft clients, you can go to Format, and choose
"Plain text", before posting, to prevent your e-mail
client from sending html. I'll submit this to the
list owner as well.
Jim Clayton
California
Mark-3X, Building...at 10%
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | giberish included in many posts? |
> Below is just a piece of a post, typicle of what I have been recieving
> lately. Is there something we are doing wrong or a way to clean this up? Also
I
> think if we hylite the 1st sentance or main topic of the post we are
> responding to and copy and paste it into our message, then we dont have to continually
> see the whole post over and over again. Bob Griffin
> >>
>>
Take care,
>>
>>
>>
>>
Guy
>>
>>
--Eat one live toad first thing in the morning
>> and nothing
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> worse will happen to you the rest of the day.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Well, I'm back home in 90-degree, 90% humid
>> Florida, and while
>> I'm
>>
>>
>>
>> feeling pretty good about it, Honey B is back to
>> rusting.
>> This was my
>>
>>
>>
>> first airplane, and I thought I did a decent job
>> of sandblasting
>> the
>>
>>
>>
>> cage and spraying it with epoxy primer, but
>> there are thin
>> areas where
>>
>>
>>
>> faint rust is showing, and some scrapes and
>> scratches that
>> I have to
>>
>>
>>
>> attend to. Some of these scrapes are down in the
>> bottom of
>> the cage and
>>
>>
>>
>> I'd like to sand down to bare metal and prime
>> with something
>> more rust
>>
>>
>>
>> preventive than the PolyFibre Epoxy (which
>> doesn't seem to
>> adhere well
>>
>>
>>
>> unless the surface is darn near perfect), then
>> cover the inside
>> of the
>>
>>
>>
>> cage frame with PolyFiber tape, PolyBrush, and
>> PolyTone. This
>> would
>>
>>
>>
>> keep moisture away from the tubing and be easer
>> to keep clean
>> . Any
>>
>>
>>
>> suggestions on cleaners, primers, etc., that
>> would be compatible
>> with
>>
>>
>>
>
Below is just a piece of a posting wrong or a way to clean this up? Also I think
if we hylite the 1st sentance or main topic of the post we are responding to
and copy and paste it into our message, then we dont have to continually see
the whole post over and=20over again. Bob Griffin
DIV/DIV
PTake care,/P
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
PGuyBRBR/P
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIVBRBRBR--Eat one live toad first thing in the morning and nothing
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIVworse will happen to you the rest of the day.
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIVgt; gt;
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIVgt; gt; Well I'm
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIVgt; gt; feeling pretty good about it, Honey B is back to rusting.
This was my
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIVgt; gt; first airplane, and I thought I did a decent job of sandblasting
the
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIVgt; gt; cage and spraying it with epoxy primer, but there are thin
areas where
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIVgt; gt; faint rust is showing, and some scrapes and scratches that
I have to
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIVgt; gt; attend to. Some of these scrapes are down in the bottom of
the cage and
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIVgt; gt; I'd=20like to sand down to bare metal and prime with something
more rust
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIVgt; gt; preventive than the PolyFibre Epoxy (which doesn't seem to
adhere well
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIVgt; gt; unless the surface is darn near perfect), then cover the inside
of the
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIVgt; gt; cage frame with PolyFiber tape, PolyBrush, and PolyTone. This
would
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIVgt; gt; keep moisture away from the tubing and be easer to keep clean
. Any
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIVgt; gt; suggestions on cleaners, primers, etc., that would be compatible
with
DIV/DIV
DIV/DIV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ron wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: giberish included in many posts? |
have you changed any settings on your computer?
----- Original Message -----
From: <Airgriff2(at)aol.com>
Subject: {Spam?} Kolb-List: giberish included in many posts?
>
>
> > Below is just a piece of a post, typicle of what I have been recieving
> > lately. Is there something we are doing wrong or a way to clean this up?
Also I
> > think if we hylite the 1st sentance or main topic of the post we are
> > responding to and copy and paste it into our message, then we dont have
to continually
> > see the whole post over and over again. Bob Griffin
> > >>
> >>
Take care,
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
Guy
> >>
> >>
--Eat one live toad first thing in the
morning
> >> and nothing
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> worse will happen to you the rest of the day.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Well, I'm back home in 90-degree, 90% humid
> >> Florida, and while
> >> I'm
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> feeling pretty good about it, Honey B is
back to
> >> rusting.
> >> This was my
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> first airplane, and I thought I did a decent
job
> >> of sandblasting
> >> the
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> cage and spraying it with epoxy primer, but
> >> there are thin
> >> areas where
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> faint rust is showing, and some scrapes and
> >> scratches that
> >> I have to
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> attend to. Some of these scrapes are down in
the
> >> bottom of
> >> the cage and
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> I'd like to sand down to bare metal and
prime
> >> with something
> >> more rust
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> preventive than the PolyFibre Epoxy (which
> >> doesn't seem to
> >> adhere well
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> unless the surface is darn near perfect),
then
> >> cover the inside
> >> of the
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> cage frame with PolyFiber tape, PolyBrush,
and
> >> PolyTone. This
> >> would
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> keep moisture away from the tubing and be
easer
> >> to keep clean
> >> . Any
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> suggestions on cleaners, primers, etc., that
> >> would be compatible
> >> with
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
>
>
> "Arial" LANG"0">
> : 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Below is just a piece of a
post> ing wrong or a way to clean this up? Also I think if we hylite the 1st
senta> nce or main topic of the post we are responding to and copy and paste it
int> o our message, then we dont have to continually see the whole post over
and=20> over again. Bob Griffin
> : 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">DIV/DIV
> PTake care,/P
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
>
PGuyBRBR/P
>
> DIV/DIV
>
DIV/DIVBRBRBR--Eat one live toad first thing in the morning and nothing
>
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIVworse will happen to
y> ou the rest of the day.
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIVgt; gt;
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIVgt; gt;
Well> I'm
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIVgt; gt;
feel> ing pretty good about it, Honey B is back to rusting.
> This was my
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIVgt; gt;
firs> t airplane, and I thought I did a decent job of sandblasting
> the
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIVgt; gt;
cage> and spraying it with epoxy primer, but there are thin
> areas where
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIVgt; gt;
fain> t rust is showing, and some scrapes and scratches that
> I have to
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIVgt; gt;
atte> nd to. Some of these scrapes are down in the bottom of
> the cage and
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIVgt; gt;
I'd=20> like to sand down to bare metal and prime with something
> more rust
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIVgt; gt;
prev> entive than the PolyFibre Epoxy (which doesn't seem to
> adhere well
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIVgt; gt;
unle> ss the surface is darn near perfect), then cover the inside
> of the
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIVgt; gt;
cage> frame with PolyFiber tape, PolyBrush, and PolyTone. This
> would
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIVgt; gt;
keep> moisture away from the tubing and be easer to keep clean
> . Any
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIVgt; gt;
sugg> estions on cleaners, primers, etc., that would be compatible
> with
> DIV/DIV
> DIV/DIV
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BMWBikeCrz(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Another one of my ramblings :-) Zenair Arirfoil |
Been looking into a Mark - 3 But with a twist ... I Like the Form Factor of a
KOLB But really like the Zenair concept of its STOL wing ...
What Cha' Think ...
Dave
Been looking into a Mark - 3 But with a twist ... I Like the Form Factor of a KOLB
But really like the Zenair concept of its STOL wing ...
What Cha' Think ...
Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: giberish included in many posts? |
You can do it that way, or, what I find a little simpler - since this's how
I've always done it - is to click and highlight the parts you DON'T want,
then go up and click "Cut," assuming you use Outlook Express. The
highlighted part will vanish, leaving you with the edited message. If you
click at the top of the unwanted portion; hold the button down, and pull the
mouse toward you, it'll scroll itself, and highlight a large area very
quickly, as I did with this very long message. I try to do this on most
posts, but, being sadly imperfect, do forget once in a while.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Airgriff2(at)aol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: giberish included in many posts?
>
>
> > Below is just a piece of a post, typicle of what I have been recieving
> > lately. Is there something we are doing wrong or a way to clean this up?
Also I
> > think if we hylite the 1st sentance or main topic of the post we are
> > responding to and copy and paste it into our message, then we dont have
to continually
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another one of my ramblings :-) Zenair Arirfoil |
That's one of the great benefits of "Experimental."...............but you'd
BETTER know what you're doing as regards weight and balance, center of lift,
etc. I know - I like to play outside the box, too. If you like the Zenair
high lift airfoil, you might want to check out the "Pegazair" (sp ??) wings
with their automatically extending and retracting leading edge slats. They
look like a dandy toy. Haven't seen anything on them for a while, tho'.
Lar.
P.S. - Go into "Format" at the top of your page, and click "Plain Text."
It'll eliminate the garbage at the bottom of your post that is upsetting
some people. For regular emails, go back to "HTML." Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <BMWBikeCrz(at)aol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Another one of my ramblings :-) Zenair Arirfoil
>
>
> Been looking into a Mark - 3 But with a twist ... I Like the Form Factor
of a
> KOLB But really like the Zenair concept of its STOL wing ...
>
> What Cha' Think ...
> Dave
>
>
> | Date: | Oct 10, 2003 |
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Zenair Airfoil |
>
>
>Been looking into a Mark - 3 But with a twist ... I Like the Form Factor of a
>KOLB But really like the Zenair concept of its STOL wing ...
>
> What Cha' Think ...
> Dave
>
Dave,
Go ahead and do it and report back on how it worked out.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ALEMBIC7(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 31 Msgs - 10/09/03 |
In a message dated 10/10/03 7:01:25 AM, kolb-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< Is anyone flying with a HKS 700e Power plant?
If so you can contact me on or off the site, I have the usual questions.
Ken
>>
I would also like to hear your experience w/ this power plant...
Steve >alembic7(at)aol.com< thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James, Ken" <KDJames(at)berkscareer.com> |
| Subject: | Another one of my ramblings :-) Zenair Arirfoil |
If you don't mind what was your weight plus the passenger, and how many
gallons did you have ?
Ken
RE: Kolb-List: Another one of my ramblings :-) Zenair Arirfoil
If you don't mind what was your weight plus the passenger, and
how many gallons did you have ?
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron and flap Gap tapes, WOW! |
Denny,
Pardon if I slept thru earlier info on your this, but...
What were you using for gap seal before the book binding tape? I want
to know what the big performance gain is compared to.
thanks,
-Ben Ransom
--- rowedl(at)highstream.net wrote:
>
>
> Kolbers,
> OK, I finally broke down today and installed the book binding tapes
> in
> the gaps between the wing, ailerons, and flaps. Well truth be told,
> Linda did it while I changed spark plugs and pretended to be busy,
> :-) I
> hate that arts and crafts type of work.
> Upon taking off for the first time with the tapes I was astounded at
> the
> change in performance of my Mk-3. It feels as if someone released the
> emergency brake and installed power steering.
> The climb rate is close to 200 fpm better solo, the roll response is
> way
> quicker and much lighter, the sink rate is slower, and one notch of
> flaps feels like it used to with no flaps. The plane even floats a
> little on round out to landing, before it would just pretty much stop
> as
> soon as you rounded out.
> I ran her up to full throttle in level flight solo and actually saw
> 90mph, thats 8 mph more than I had before installing the tapes.
> Now I am wondering how the factory guys at TNK were able to install
> their tapes so nicely with no fingerprints and bubbles?
> I am going to try to locate white book binding tapes to replace these
> clear ones, figure that way the prints won't show.
> Sincerely,
>
> Denny (Now I understand how a Kolb is supposed to handle) Rowe
>
> Mk-3 N616DR, 2SI 690L-70, PA
>
> PS: We used the 3M 845, 3 inch wide with the 1.5 inch face to face
> with
> it.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Kolbers,
> OK, I finally broke down today and
> installed the
> book binding tapes in the gaps between the wing, ailerons, and flaps.
> Well truth
> be told, Linda did it while I changed spark plugs and pretended to be
> busy, :-)
> I hate that arts and crafts type of work.
> Upon taking off for the first time with
> the tapes I
> was astounded at the change in performance of my Mk-3. It feels as if
> someone
> released the emergency brake and installed power steering.
>
> The climb rate is close to 200 fpm
> better solo, the
> roll response is way quicker and much lighter, the sink rate is
> slower,
> and one
> notch of flaps feels like it used to with no flaps. The plane
> even
> floats
> a little on round out to landing, before it would just pretty much
> stop
> as soon
> as you rounded out.
> I ran her up to full throttle in level
> flight solo
> and actually saw 90mph, thats 8 mph more than I had before installing
> the
> tapes.
> Now I am wondering how the factory guys
> at TNK were
> able to install their tapes so nicely with no fingerprints and
> bubbles?
> I am going to try to locate white book
> binding
> tapes to replace these clear ones, figure that way the prints won't
> show.
> Sincerely,
>
> Denny (Now I understand how a Kolb is
> supposed to
> handle) Rowe
>
> Mk-3 N616DR, 2SI 690L-70,
> PA
>
> PS: We used the 3M 845, 3
> inchwide with the
> 1.5 inch face to face with it.
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Heat treating 4130 landing gear/ |
Jim Hauck
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron and flap Gap tapes, WOW! |
>
> Denny,
> Pardon if I slept thru earlier info on your this, but...
>
> What were you using for gap seal before the book binding tape? I want
> to know what the big performance gain is compared to.
> thanks,
> -Ben Ransom
Ben,
Before the tape I was using no tape. My bird is newly completed and today I
flew for 2.2 hrs and hit 29.7 hrs total time.
Up till a few days ago I had flown with no control gap seals at all because
I had never taken the time to install the 3M tapes, partly because a fellow
lister that has a Firefly told me he did not notice much difference in
performance with or without the tape, and partly because of my own lazyness.
Anyway, I am hear to tell ya that it makes a very big differance on my Mk-3.
This may be due in part to the fact that my hinge gaps are a little wider
than the plans call for. Hey, don't blame me, I purchased my kit after the
hinges had been located, when I discovered that they were a little off, I
made the decision to leave it alone instead of replacing the rear spar tube.
OK so maybe you can blame me.
Anyway the tapes make a nice handling airplane into an exceptionally nice
handling airplane, and cut down on drag very noticably.
I am sure that the fabric tape method that the plans and Jim and Dondi
endorse will work as good or better than the 3M tape, I just chose to use
the 3M
Denny Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Head set cushion |
Richard,
After flying for 2+ hours today, I headed for my local WalMart for the
Outback Headset Cushion you described the other day.
Sure enough, there they were mislabled as seatbelt cushions just like at
your local store. They even had the choice of white or black. We opted
for black. Thanks a ton for the heads up. When Linda was flying with me
on Wednesday she complained that the headset dug into her head, and my
buddy that flew with me this afternoon had the same problem.
Denny Rowe, Mk-3, PA
Richard,
After flying for 2+ hours today, I
headed for my
local WalMart for the Outback Headset Cushion you described the other
day.
Sure enough, there they were mislabled
as seatbelt
cushions just like at your local store. They even had the choice of
white or
black. We opted for black. Thanks a ton for the heads up. When Linda was
flying
with meon Wednesday she complained that the headset dug into her
head, and
my buddy that flew with me thisafternoon had the same
problem.
Denny Rowe, Mk-3,
PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
Kolbers,
Flew 2.2 hrs today, most of it with a friend that is thinking about
taking flying lessons.
Had a great time and let him do a lot of the flying. It was a blast
sharing my bird with someone who has a real interest in learning to fly.
He brought his digital camera / video thingy with him and took a lot of
photos and video he promised to put on a CD and VHS tape for me, I hope
to post some when I get them.
I also shot a whole roll of 35 mm film of the plane to try to get some
photos suitable for the completions sections of the magazines. Dropped
the film at Walmart tonight and checked the CD option so I hope to post
some of them to the PhotoShare also.
Anyway, for as crappy as this summer has been weather wise, it has sure
been nice to do some serious Kolb aviating the past few days, this is
living.
Denny Rowe
Mk-3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
Kolbers,
Flew 2.2 hrs today, most of it with a
friend that
is thinking about taking flying lessons.
Had a great time and let him do a lot
of the
flying. It was a blast sharing my bird with someone who has a real
interest in
learning to fly.
He brought his digital camera / video
thingy with
him and took a lot of photos and video he promised to put on a CD and
VHS tape
for me, I hope to post some when I get them.
I also shot a whole roll of 35 mm film
of the plane
to try to get some photos suitable for the completions sections of the
magazines. Dropped the film at Walmart tonight and checked the CD
option
so I hope to post some of them to the PhotoShare also.
Anyway, for as crappy as this summer
has been
weather wise, it has sure been nice to do some serious Kolb aviating the
past
few days, this is living.
Denny Rowe
Mk-3, 690L-70, Leechburg,
PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: brake questions |
In a message dated 10/09/2003 9:46:03 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
firestarii(at)hotmail.com writes:
> I also have a friend who has a set of wheels from an original Firestar for
> sale that have the internal drum brakes. According to him they are not
> strong brakes, but they do the job for ground handling and taxiing. You
> couldn't do a full-power runup with them.
>
I can vouch for that. I can run up to about 4200 RPM if I stop the wheels
against a slight rise on the turf and hold the brakes as snugly as possible.
Otherwise on a flat area I can only get about 3800 RPM before the wheels start
turning.
Another problem I have experienced, which would probably be the same with any
brake system, is that the aluminum gear legs tend to vibrate, or "wobble",
ie. spring fore and aft when applying brakes on hard surfaces. This in turn
starts the tail wheel rod flexing and then the whole plane gets into an up and
down bounce which won't stop until I stop forward motion, or let go of the
brakes. Makes me feel like a bobble head :) Don't have this problem on turf.
When I assembled the brakes (wheelbarrow wheels and go-kart brakes as
supplied by Kolb) I took a lot of time and pain to get the drums mounted onto the
wheel rims symetrically. But all the effort still resulted in having a "high"
spot, so when I roll the plane out of the hangar I can hear the shoes scrape the
drum intermittantly. The quality of the parts are such that I don't think it
can be made any better without major machining and/or modification. Still,
they do the job that Ralph says he wants to do, hold the plane back going down
hill on hard surfaces and safely taxing around other craft.
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar
9.5 years flying
412 hours
Audubon, NJ
In a message dated 10/09/2003 9:46:03 AM Eastern Daylight Time, firestarii(at)hotmail.com
writes:
I also have a friend who has a=20set of wheels from an original Firestar for
sale that have the internal drum brakes. According to him they are not
strong brakes, but they do the job for ground handling and taxiing. You
couldn't do a full-power runup with them.
I can vouch for that. I can run up to about 4200 RPM if I stop the wheels against
a slight rise on the turf and hold the brakes as snugly as possible. Otherwise
on a flat area I can only get about 3800 RPM before the wheels start turning.
Another problem I have experienced, which would probably be the same with any brake
system, is that the aluminum gear legs tend to vibrate, or "wobble", ie.
spring fore and aft when applying brakes on hard surfaces. This in turn starts
the tail wheel rod flexing and then the whole plane gets into=20an up and down
bounce which won't stop until I stop forward motion, or let go of the brakes.
Makes me feel like a bobble head :) Don't have=20this problem on turf.
When I assembled the brakes (wheelbarrow wheels and go-kart brakes as supplied
by Kolb) I took a lot of time and pain to get the drums mounted onto the=20wheel
rims symetrically. But all the effort still resulted in having a "high" spot,
so when I roll the plane out of the hangar I can hear the shoes scrape the
drum intermittantly. The quality of the parts are such that I don't think it can
be made any better without major machining and/or modification. Still, they
do the job that Ralph says he wants to do, hold the plane back going down hill
on hard surfaces and safely taxing around other craft.
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar
9.5 years flying
412 hours
Audubon, NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: brake questions |
Moto Tool with the little sanding drum, and take down the high spots. Or if
you have a side grinder, that works good too, low tech, & amazing how much
it helped mine.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>In a message dated 10/09/2003 9:46:03 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>firestarii(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
>
>When I assembled the brakes (wheelbarrow wheels and go-kart brakes as
>supplied by Kolb) I took a lot of time and pain to get the drums mounted
>onto the
>wheel rims symetrically. But all the effort still resulted in having a
>"high"
>spot, so when I roll the plane out of the hangar I can hear the shoes
>scrape the
>drum intermittantly.
>Bill Varnes
>Original FireStar
>9.5 years flying
>412 hours
>Audubon, NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: brake questions |
I know that feeling. Initially we had some problems with the brakes
grabbing on our FireFly until we upgraded the wheel bearing from the China
junk ones to some Japanese made bearings. That helped tighten things
up. If I were to do over I would incorporate the Azusa brand brakes rather
than their internal expansion brakes. They still use the same drum but the
external bands are smoother and seem to work better. To put them on might
require a simple modification to the gear leg axle bracket by welding on a
small flange to hold the bands pivot bolt.
jerb
(hop-a-long FireFly)
>
>When I assembled the brakes (wheelbarrow wheels and go-kart brakes as
>supplied by Kolb) I took a lot of time and pain to get the drums mounted
>onto the
>wheel rims symetrically. But all the effort still resulted in having a
>"high"
>spot, so when I roll the plane out of the hangar I can hear the shoes
>scrape the
>drum intermittantly. The quality of the parts are such that I don't think it
>can be made any better without major machining and/or modification. Still,
>they do the job that Ralph says he wants to do, hold the plane back going
>down
>hill on hard surfaces and safely taxing around other craft.
>
>Bill Varnes
>Original FireStar
>9.5 years flying
>412 hours
>Audubon, NJ
>
>
>In a message dated 10/09/= 2003 9:46:03 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>firestarii(at)hotmail.com writes:
>
>sale that have the internal drum brakes. According to him they are not
>strong brakes, but they do the job for ground handling and taxiing. You
>couldn't do a full-power runup with them.
>
>
>I can vouch for that. I can run up to about 4200 RPM if I stop the whe=
>els against a slight rise on the turf and hold the brakes as snugly as
>possi= ble. Otherwise on a flat area I can only get about 3800 RPM before
>the= wheels start turning.
>
>Another problem I have experienced, which would probably be the same with
>an= y brake system, is that the aluminum gear legs tend to vibrate, or
>"wobble",= ie. spring fore and aft when applying brakes on hard
>surfaces. This i= n turn starts the tail wheel rod flexing and then the
>whole plane gets into=20= an up and down bounce which won't stop until I
>stop forward motion, or let g= o of the brakes. Makes me feel like a
>bobble head :) Don't have=20= this problem on turf.
>
>When I assembled the brakes (wheelbarrow wheels and go-kart brakes as
>suppli= ed by Kolb) I took a lot of time and pain to get the drums mounted
>onto the=20= wheel rims symetrically. But all the effort still resulted
>in having a= "high" spot, so when I roll the plane out of the hangar I can
>hear the shoe= s scrape the drum intermittantly. The quality of the parts
>are such th= at I don't think it can be made any better without major
>machining and/or mo= dification. Still, they do the job that Ralph says
>he wants to do, hol= d the plane back going down hill on hard surfaces and
>safely taxing around o= ther craft.
>
>Bill Varnes
>Original FireStar
>9.5 years flying
>412 hours
>Audubon, NJ
>
I know that feeling. Initially we had some problems with the brakes
grabbing on our FireFly until we upgraded the wheel bearing from the
China junk ones to some Japanese made bearings. That helped tighten
things up. If I were to do over I would incorporate the Azusa brand
brakes rather than their internal expansion brakes. They still use
the same drum but the external bands are smoother and seem to work
better. To put them on might require a simple modification to the
gear leg axle bracket by welding on a small flange to hold the bands
pivot bolt.
jerb
(hop-a-long FireFly)
-- Kolb-List message posted by:
WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com
When I assembled the brakes (wheelbarrow wheels and go-kart brakes as
supplied by Kolb) I took a lot of time and pain to get the drums mounted
onto the
wheel rims symetrically. But all the effort still resulted in
having a high
spot, so when I roll the plane out of the hangar I can hear the shoes
scrape the
drum intermittantly. The quality of the parts are such that I don't
think it
can be made any better without major machining and/or modification.
Still,
they do the job that Ralph says he wants to do, hold the plane back going
down
hill on hard surfaces and safely taxing around other craft.
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar
9.5 years flying
412 hours
Audubon, NJ
In a message dated 10/09/= 2003 9:46:03 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
firestarii(at)hotmail.com writes:
- sale that have the internal drum brakes. According to him they are
not
- strong brakes, but they do the job for ground handling and taxiing.
You
- couldn't do a full-power runup with them.
I can vouch for that. I can run up to about 4200 RPM if I stop the
whe= els against a slight rise on the turf and hold the brakes as snugly
as possi= ble. Otherwise on a flat area I can only get about 3800
RPM before the= wheels start turning.
Another problem I have experienced, which would probably be the same with
an= y brake system, is that the aluminum gear legs tend to vibrate, or
wobble,= ie. spring fore and aft when applying brakes on hard
surfaces. This i= n turn starts the tail wheel rod flexing and then
the whole plane gets into=20= an up and down bounce which won't stop
until I stop forward motion, or let g= o of the brakes. Makes me
feel like a bobble head :) Don't have=20= this problem on
turf.
When I assembled the brakes (wheelbarrow wheels and go-kart brakes as
suppli= ed by Kolb) I took a lot of time and pain to get the drums
mounted onto the=20= wheel rims symetrically. But all the effort
still resulted in having a= high spot, so when I roll the
plane out of the hangar I can hear the shoe= s scrape the drum
intermittantly. The quality of the parts are such th= at I don't
think it can be made any better without major machining and/or modification. Still,
they do the job that Ralph says he wants to do,
hol= d the plane back going down hill on hard surfaces and safely taxing
around o= ther craft.
Bill Varnes
Original FireStar
9.5 years flying
412 hours
Audubon, NJ
- The Kolb-List Email Forum -
________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks Guy's great advice. And I plea no contest to Beauford's position.
Guy's and Gal's, I know this is not Kolb related, but I need to ask for
your prayers. My good friend and fellow student pilot Johnny Dees wife
is going for her third operation for cancer. Johnny and his wife Jane
are truly fine folk's and Johnny lost his first lady to cancer. Your
prayers will be greatly appreciated. If any care to e-mail Johnny his
address is planedeesigns(at)yahoo.com
God bless you all.
ps Thanks Matt
pp
Thanks Guy's great advice. And I plea
no contest to
Beauford's position.
Guy's and Gal's, I know this is not
Kolb related,
but I need to ask for your prayers. My good friend and fellow student
pilot
Johnny Dees wife is going for her third operation for cancer. Johnny and
his
wife Jane are truly fine folk's and Johnny lost his first lady to
cancer. Your
prayers will be greatly appreciated. If any care to e-mail Johnny his
address is
planedeesigns(at)yahoo.com
God bless you all.
ps Thanks Matt
pp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Duplicates and Extra HTML in List Messages Solved!!! |
| From: | "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com, yak-list(at)matronics.com
Dear Listers,
Well, I apologize. I discovered today why the extra HTML tags and odd
repeating of messages was occuring. About 1-2 weeks ago I was
troubleshooting a different problem and had commented out the section in
the incoming message filter that strips out MIME enclosures and other HTML
data. Duh, then I forgot to put it back! Other filters were stripping
out a good deal of the stuff, but still some stuff was getting through!
I've reinstated the MIME filter and things should be back to normal as of
about 11am pdt on Saturday. Again, my apologies!!!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russell Phillips" <rphillip1999(at)hotmail.com> |
Help,
I am trying to put finishing tapes on the trailing edges of the control surfaces
(elevators, ailerons, flaps and rudder). I think it might be a mistake. After
attempting to do this on one elevator I see a huge problem. Trying to get thefinishing
tape to lay against the wing material where the ribs meet the 5/16
trailing edge is nearly impossible. Has anyone else out there tried this or am
I the first fabric challenged rivet-head to do this? Any help is appreciated.
Russ Phillips
Mark III Classic (Someday, but if this keeps up I'll be as long as that Lar fella
:)
Southwestern N.Y.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: finishing tapes |
Mercy..........another county heard from - must be a long time lurker, eh ??
Actually I've been trying, if I can get that cussed landing gear done.
Sorry I can't help with the tape problem, but there's others on the List
that'll make it simple for ya. Lar. Do
not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Russell Phillips" <rphillip1999(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: finishing tapes
>
> Help,
> I am trying to put finishing tapes on the trailing edges of the control
surfaces (elevators, ailerons, flaps and rudder). I think it might be a
mistake. After attempting to do this on one elevator I see a huge problem.
Trying to get thefinishing tape to lay against the wing material where the
ribs meet the 5/16 trailing edge is nearly impossible. Has anyone else out
there tried this or am I the first fabric challenged rivet-head to do this?
Any help is appreciated.
>
> Russ Phillips
> Mark III Classic (Someday, but if this keeps up I'll be as long as that
Lar fella :)
> Southwestern N.Y.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
You do have a point, but it's easily taken care of. When I bought my Baja
Bug, it had a stinger exhaust, (straight up) and at night in bad weather, I
just put an empty can over it. This is also very common with heavy
equipment - and those guys DO worry about their big, expensive engines. For
short term, say a 1 or 2 hour stop, I wouldn't worry about it.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerb" <ulflyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: exhaust
>
> I don't think putting your stacks up is a good suggestion.
> If your plane were to be out side in the open during a rain, especially an
> intense rain, its likely you would get water in the stacks and into the
> cylinders - besides not being good for the cylinders, it could cause an
> immediate hydraulic lock when you come to turn the engine over at start or
> even moving the prop. Very likely to bend a connecting rod without even
> realizing it.
> jerb
>
> >
> >Seems to me this was discussed quite a while back, and the general
consensus
> >was that it wouldn't hurt the prop, cause it's spending so much more time
in
> >cool air - unless you REally get extreme. If you do decide to turn the
> >stacks, I would think about pointing the stacks straight up, or at an
angle
> >up, rather than down, tho'...............think of how much less noise it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
You've got a very valid point there Lar - tractors and heavy equipment do
exhaust up and there sitting outside most of there life. The heavy
equipment quite often has a little flipper paddle at the output but I've
seen many tractors without them......
jerb
>
>You do have a point, but it's easily taken care of. When I bought my Baja
>Bug, it had a stinger exhaust, (straight up) and at night in bad weather, I
>just put an empty can over it. This is also very common with heavy
>equipment - and those guys DO worry about their big, expensive engines. For
>short term, say a 1 or 2 hour stop, I wouldn't worry about it.
>Lar.
>
>Larry Bourne
>Palm Springs, CA
>Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
>www.gogittum.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "jerb" <ulflyer(at)verizon.net>
>To:
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: exhaust
>
>
> >
> > I don't think putting your stacks up is a good suggestion.
> > If your plane were to be out side in the open during a rain, especially an
> > intense rain, its likely you would get water in the stacks and into the
> > cylinders - besides not being good for the cylinders, it could cause an
> > immediate hydraulic lock when you come to turn the engine over at start or
> > even moving the prop. Very likely to bend a connecting rod without even
> > realizing it.
> > jerb
> >
> > >
> > >Seems to me this was discussed quite a while back, and the general
>consensus
> > >was that it wouldn't hurt the prop, cause it's spending so much more time
>in
> > >cool air - unless you REally get extreme. If you do decide to turn the
> > >stacks, I would think about pointing the stacks straight up, or at an
>angle
> > >up, rather than down, tho'...............think of how much less noise it
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | roger.hankins(at)kodak.com |
10/12/2003 03:12:45 PM,
Serialize complete at 10/12/2003 03:12:45 PM
Russell:
I put finishing tapes around all of my control surfaces except for the
ailerons. I used bias weave HS90X pinked edge tape. The HS90X is a high
thread count light weight fabric that is no longer made I believe. It
worked pretty well as the individual fibers were very small making it very
limp and flexible. The only problem was there were a few spots where the
weave didn't want to fill properly, leaving pin holes. I think this may
have been because the finishing tape was a different weave and weight than
the covering material. All other fabric on the plane is lightweight stits
as supplied with the kit.
The firestar has 185 hours on it now and is holding up pretty well. The
extra protection you get fron the finishing tape is worth the time it
takes
to put on. Folding and unfolding takes it's toll over time. If I ever do
a recover job, I will put finish tape everywhere tubing touches the
fabric. All it takes is a dropped pair of pliers or a wrench hitting the
thin fabric over a tube and you have a hole to patch.
Take your time, use a good bias weave tape of the most flexible type you
can find and you will be pleased with the results.
Roger Hankins
Ashland, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Thank You and Farewell |
Kolb Listers, one and all;
Due to personal circumstances, I have found it prudent to sell my Mark III (N629RB).
The new owner is here in Florida and is presently flying out of Hidden
Lake at Port Richey. I believe there are some other Kolb owners near that facility.
I think the new owner, is already lurking on the list.
I want to take this opportunity to thank all of the many Kolb-Listers who have
been so generous with their assistance, friendship and support over the last 5
years.
I will especially miss:
The expertise of John Hauck laced with common sense, which he shares so willing.
A special thanks for the 912 engine mounts. He leads the way.
Big Lar, who is a great correspondent and I think builder, when he is not gadding
about the country. The only person I know of building a plane on his front
porch, where it gets hot enough to blister. The guy knows how to live!
Jim and Dondi Miller who are so personable, I actually enjoyed getting in trouble
during the Stits process, so I could have an excuse to call them. They give
rare meaning to the term "service".
Lip Laurie who maintains the Builder/Pilot, list to keep us all acquainted.
Beauford, the Aluminum Butcher of Brandon, who can create humor from disaster.
I still find it hard to believe that he did not kill that cat!
Steve Green who was the source of several neat ideas.
Dennis Souder who gave me some much needed assurance in the early stages of the
building process. (1999).
Matt Dralle for the list. He has constantly improved it, and been immediate in
his response when problems developed. It is a great resource and he does it on
donations, not by charging.
Richard Pike and 42op (old poops). Lots of good sound advice and the benefit of
his experience. His pictures helped.
There are many more, some of whom I was lucky enough to meet at Sun-N-Fun. I wish
I could list them all but what do you expect from and old man? My memory's
shot!
Thanks also to TNK. They were with me to the end. Listing on their classified
sold the plane. They also quick shipped me a new gear leg last week. I guess
I do not have to explain why I needed it!
I am divesting myself of all things "Airplane". It is too much like being a "Diabetic
in a Candy Store". So, with this swan song I am leaving the list.
Wishing you all, lots of fun building and flying. Keep it Safe!
L. Ray Baker
Gainesville, FL
Mark III Classic N 629 RB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ron wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
anyone have a ultrastar with a enclosure for winter??, Need some pic's ,,thanks
ron in tx.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JACKIE AND DALE SELLERS" <jsel(at)vol.com> |
I haven't been on for about eight months because I was going through chemo treatment.
I finished the treatments and the Ultra
Star I have been rebuilding for about a year and a half. Last Wednesday, I flew
it for the first time. It was really a hoot. I'm glad I was able to finish
and fly it. It flew just fine. It was more fun than I had imagined.
Georgia Ultra Star
Jackie & Dale
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
That is fantastic news.............good on you ! ! ! From what I've seen of
chemo, it's a major accomplishment to just keep going, and for you to finish
and fly your airplane is tremendous. You humble me.............I'm still
just fumbling along. Keep 'er up. Lar. Do
not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "JACKIE AND DALE SELLERS" <jsel(at)vol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List:
>
> I haven't been on for about eight months because I was going through chemo
treatment. I finished the treatments and the Ultra
> Star I have been rebuilding for about a year and a half. Last Wednesday,
I flew it for the first time. It was really a hoot. I'm glad I was able to
finish and fly it. It flew just fine. It was more fun than I had imagined.
>
> Georgia Ultra Star
> Jackie & Dale
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Ballenger" <ulpilot(at)cavtel.net> |
| Subject: | MK III X FUEL TANKS |
Kolbers
A few weeks back there was a posting from someone on the list with the dimensions
of a 10 gallon tank from Titan Aircraft. Since I was looking for a way to increase
the amount of fuel carried aboard the Xtra, I ordered two of the tanks
from Titan last week and took delivery 2 days later. In order to fit them inside
the cage, I cut the 1/4" tubing that holds the factory 5 gallon tanks in
place. I will replace this tubing with some material to hold the larger tanks
in place for flight. The good news, there is plenty of room for the larger tanks
and the CG should not be affected that much, the bad news is I will need to
place them in the cage prior to covering.
I took some pictures, so let me know if you want me to send them to you off list.
Jim Ballenger
Flying a FS KXP 447
Building a MK III X
Virginia Beach, VA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James, Ken" <KDJames(at)berkscareer.com> |
| Subject: | MK III X FUEL TANKS |
Yes I would like to see your tank pics
ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Vortex generators installed |
Got busy this afternoon and made 20 vortex generators and went out and
stuck them on the MKIII. Had previously examined Vince Nicely's Firestar II
with his vortex generators and after we discovered the airfoils were
identical, I used his numbers to locate where I installed them on the
MKIII, as he had already done extensive testing to find the sweet spot to
locate them.
Flight testing was with mixed results, mainly because I think my airspeed
indicator is terribly non-linear below about 40 indicated, so I can't tell
if it is flying/stalling any slower or not. It feels like it is, for what
that's worth. It still stalls at the same indicated airspeed as before (26
indicated, 35 actual according to the GPS), but at a much higher apparent
deck angle. The stall is slightly more aggressive than before, it has a
clean break, both straight ahead, power off and accelerated, but still
fairly mild & easy to live with.
I may have lost a few mph top end, it seems to have dropped from a max
of around 90-92 down to about 88-89, could not tell that it was any slower
at 5000-5500 rpm cruise speeds.
The good part came in the landing configuration. Practiced at 3500', full
flaps, power off, and tried descents at 50 indicated and simulated a brisk
flare. Always before, it would start to flare and then sort of mush out the
bottom, but this time it felt solid. So I went home and shot a couple
landings at a 50 mph approach speed. (Normally I use 60) Power off, no
power added to round out and flare, full flaps, and I still get to use the
airplane again tomorrow, didn't even need to order new gear.
It was well behaved and landed normally. However, as soon as I started to
round out, the airspeed indicator was falling through 45, and if I had any
excess altitude, it would have been ugly, because it got slow real quick.
But it stayed well behaved, was still holding off the first time and
touched the tailwheel first.
I am satisfied that I can now shoot approaches slower with more security.
So although I don't know if the vortex generators have changed the stall
speed, they have certainly improved the landing characteristics, which
makes them well worth the three hours it took to make them and put them on.
I used soft aluminum gutter material, before bending they measured 3.75"
across the back, 2.75" across the front, and the ends are bent up 3/8" ,
they are 1.5" deep from front to back. The front edge of the vortex
generator is 11" from the centerline of the leading edge. They are secured
with one rivet into the rib 3/8" back from the front, and then the rest of
the underside of the vg is coated with
Goop glue before I rivet it in place, keeps it from moving against the
fabric. They have a little bend in them through the center to make them lay
down against the fabric where the fabric goes over the rib.
I used ten vg's total, starting from the outermost full rib (not the little
one that is part of the tip) there is one on every third rib (full and
false) for seven ribs, which puts those seven ending up on a full rib, and
then the last three inboard are on every fourth rib, which are all full
ribs. That keeps the innermost ones out from in front of the prop arc,
which is good, because you now get a power on real loud prop yowl and
buffet well ahead of the stall as the center section starts to let go
first, good stall warning signal.
Sorry to rattle on for so long, but I have been looking forward to this for
quite a while, and it was fun to see it come together.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Kroll <muso2080(at)yahoo.com> |
Hello Everyone.
I own Mk2-171 and I suffered some damage to the fiberglass tailspring. I want
to take out the old spring and replace it with the newer spring aluminum rod.
Anybody have any experience doing this with their Kolb and how did you accomplish
it?
Thanks up front for any help with this.
Steve Kroll
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
That's neat but that mighty heavy. I figure my VW is at least 45-50 lbs
lighter and three thousand dollars less. My plane weighs 554 lbs empty when
I add me 210lbs plus 60lbs fuel I have to limit the weight of my passengers
to stay below the max gross weight. If I were to add another 45-50 lbs I
would almost have a one passenger airplane.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Hog power
>
> I'll be darn! That's neat and a real good idea. I called the guy. His name
> is Bret Ray and has flown it on a Zenith. He is planning on flying it to
> Daytona for "Biketoberfest" and said he will stop by my place and give me
a
> ride. For those who are interested, here are some numbers that are not on
> the website. 100+ hp. 220 lbs 2200 rpm cruise, sells the complete package
> for 8500 bucks. Not bad. He also said he tried the same engine I'm testing
> but it almost shook the tail feathers off the plane.
> The engine he is selling is the Twin Cam counterbalanced model. Way
smoother
> running engine and can be upgraded to 95 cu in real easy.
> Wonder if my Kolbra could support 220 pound engine? hmmm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Vortex generators correction |
Reread my earlier post about the vortex generators -
At one point I said I used ten vg's total -
that should have been per wing.
20 total for the airplane.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators installed |
Richard,
Did you notice any change in aileron responsiveness?
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>Sorry to rattle on for so long, but I have been looking forward to this for
>quite a while, and it was fun to see it come together.
>
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johnjung(at)compusenior.com" <johnjung(at)compusenior.com> |
Steve and Group,
I replaced the fiberglass tailwheel spring on an original Firestar with
an aluminum on from Kolb.
I sawed off the old one flush with the steel, then used a drill to
remove the rest. It didn't take long
and was a nice update to the plane.
John Jung
Firestar II
Surprise, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johnjung(at)compusenior.com" <johnjung(at)compusenior.com> |
| Subject: | 2,200 mile transport |
Group,
Last week I moved my Firestar II from Upper Michigan to Surprise,
Arizona. I used an enclosed trailer for the move and the trailer will be
it's hanger for a while at least. My plan is to keep the Firestar in
Arizona. It was a long trip to tow a trailer, but it is behind me now.
I'm looking forward to seeing Arizona from the air, including Monument
Valley.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators installed |
Not that I could tell, and that was something I checked. Bear in mind, I
already have changed the bellcrank geometry and the ailerons were already
very light and responsive, especially compared to the stock MKIII.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Richard,
>
>Did you notice any change in aileron responsiveness?
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Jackson, MO
>
>
> >
> >Sorry to rattle on for so long, but I have been looking forward to this for
> >quite a while, and it was fun to see it come together.
> >
> >Richard Pike
> >MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>Jack & Louise Hart
>jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne F.Wilson" <wfwilson1(at)yahoo.ca> |
| Subject: | Slingshot Landing Gear |
To make storage easier due to height does anyone have
any Ideas or suggestions as to the landing gear. Can
it be shortened? If shortened the stance would be
narrower, what would be the results? Or should the
design not be changed?
Any comments would be appreciated.
Regards
Wayne F Wilson
Slingshot Ser 009
Amherstburg Ontario
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slingshot Landing Gear |
Not sure about the slingshot, but on my Mk III, narrowing the landing gear
3" also lowered it a couple of inches. Made it so's the leading edges of
the wings are less than 1 1/2" from the ground when folded. Can't move it
over anything larger than an ant without tearing up the leading edges, and
loading it into the trailer is a nightmare. This is the prime reason I'm
building my "bent" 4130 steel landing gear. One beauty of these is that
I'll be able to use standard Cessna 150 tapered shims to adjust toe-in and
camber. (they're also a little heavier) He's also built removeable
"jacking points" that go into the lower strut mounts, so the plane can be
lifted for landing gear work - such as alignment. I've made up drawings in
Paint, so if'n anyone's interested, I could build a quick web page about it.
Let me know. High-Steppin' Lar
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne F.Wilson" <wfwilson1(at)yahoo.ca>
Subject: Kolb-List: Slingshot Landing Gear
>
> To make storage easier due to height does anyone have
> any Ideas or suggestions as to the landing gear. Can
> it be shortened? If shortened the stance would be
> narrower, what would be the results? Or should the
> design not be changed?
> Any comments would be appreciated.
> Regards
> Wayne F Wilson
> Slingshot Ser 009
> Amherstburg Ontario
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi(at)supernet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slingshot Landing Gear |
If shortened the stance would be
> narrower, what would be the results?
I think that the most important result would a lowered angle of attack
stance while on the ground causing a much faster takeoff and landing
speed. I would NOT shorten the gear on any Kolb they already have built
in the landing gear stance a lot of safety margin for taking off too
slow. Thus affecting there STOL ability. -- Earl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators installed |
Richard,
I am curious how it will perform in slow flight standing on the propeller just
above stall and no mushing. Do you have to occasionally kick a rudder pedal to
keep a it from dropping off on one wing? Under these conditions and if you
displace the ailerons slightly out of neutral, will it rotate without a wing dropping?
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
>
>Not that I could tell, and that was something I checked. Bear in mind, I
>already have changed the bellcrank geometry and the ailerons were already
>very light and responsive, especially compared to the stock MKIII.
>
>Richard Pike
>MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>
>>
>>Richard,
>>
>>Did you notice any change in aileron responsiveness?
>>
>>Jack B. Hart FF004
>>Jackson, MO
>>
>>
>> >
>> >Sorry to rattle on for so long, but I have been looking forward to this for
>> >quite a while, and it was fun to see it come together.
>> >
>> >Richard Pike
>> >MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slingshot Landing Gear |
I don't know about other Kolbs but the MKIIIc gear legs are to short
already. As soon as I can dig up the money I will be switching to the
factory spring steel gear. They are app. two inches longer which makes the
stance wider which is always good except for storage and they are taller. I
had a chance to fly the old factory demonstrator (Fat Albert) with these
legs and they were great. The ride on rough ground was a bunch better due to
more spring effect and they allowed you to do a slower landing. I find with
the stock gear I'm always touching down with the tail wheel first. With the
new gear it will be a three pointer. If they made them longer yet I would be
even happier.
My $.02 worth
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Slingshot Landing Gear
>
> Not sure about the slingshot, but on my Mk III, narrowing the landing gear
> 3" also lowered it a couple of inches. Made it so's the leading edges of
> the wings are less than 1 1/2" from the ground when folded. Can't move it
> over anything larger than an ant without tearing up the leading edges, and
> loading it into the trailer is a nightmare. This is the prime reason I'm
> building my "bent" 4130 steel landing gear. One beauty of these is that
> I'll be able to use standard Cessna 150 tapered shims to adjust toe-in and
> camber. (they're also a little heavier) He's also built removeable
> "jacking points" that go into the lower strut mounts, so the plane can be
> lifted for landing gear work - such as alignment. I've made up drawings
in
> Paint, so if'n anyone's interested, I could build a quick web page about
it.
> Let me know. High-Steppin' Lar
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> www.gogittum.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wayne F.Wilson" <wfwilson1(at)yahoo.ca>
> To: "Kolb Matronics"
> Subject: Kolb-List: Slingshot Landing Gear
>
>
> >
> > To make storage easier due to height does anyone have
> > any Ideas or suggestions as to the landing gear. Can
> > it be shortened? If shortened the stance would be
> > narrower, what would be the results? Or should the
> > design not be changed?
> > Any comments would be appreciated.
> > Regards
> > Wayne F Wilson
> > Slingshot Ser 009
> > Amherstburg Ontario
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators installed |
If you are talking about stalls @ 5500 rpm, it was at a very steep deck
angle, stalled straight ahead, and didn't seem to have any fall off
tendency. If you are talking about stalls at max power, I didn't try
those. Guess I didn't take enough macho pills...
Flying in slow flight @ 4500 just barely above a stall with the prop
yowling like crazy, it was easy to do normal aileron turns using just
enough rudder to keep the yaw string centered. If you stalled it that way,
it dropped a little to the side you were turning toward, but not excessively.
I did a bunch of full aileron reversal turns at 40 mph and 4500 rpm and
there was no prop yowl and it seemed as happy there as at 50 or 60 mph,
probably descending about 150' minute in the process.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Richard,
>
>I am curious how it will perform in slow flight standing on the propeller
>just above stall and no mushing. Do you have to occasionally kick a
>rudder pedal to keep a it from dropping off on one wing? Under these
>conditions and if you displace the ailerons slightly out of neutral, will
>it rotate without a wing dropping?
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Jackson, MO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slingshot Landing Gear |
> I don't know about other Kolbs but the MKIIIc gear legs are to short
> already. As soon as I can dig up the money I will be switching to the
> factory spring steel gear. They are app. two inches longer which makes the
> stance wider which is always good except for storage and they are taller.
I
> had a chance to fly the old factory demonstrator (Fat Albert) with these
> legs and they were great. The ride on rough ground was a bunch better due
to
> more spring effect and they allowed you to do a slower landing. I find
with
> the stock gear I'm always touching down with the tail wheel first. With
the
> new gear it will be a three pointer. If they made them longer yet I would
be
> even happier.
>
> My $.02 worth
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered
Rick,
I agree with what you say here. My way around it was to install the big
800-6 tires and to weld up a new double forked tailwheel assembly that is
raked out a little more than the stock tailwheel, next I may slightly
shorten the tailspring rod.
All these small changes raise the front and lower the tail which has put my
standard aluminum gear Mk-3 in a little more aggressive stance on the
ground. This helps quite a bit with three point landings.
Makes the ship look a little more muscular also. Still nothing like Miss
P-fer though.
Denny Rowe
Mk-3 N616DR, 2SI 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Bad Gearbox seal |
Kolbers,
Well I finally have my first real technical problem with my 690L powerplant.
Yesterday while flying, my GB-1 gearbox developed a small gear oil leak. It looks
like the primary drive shaft that is linked to the crankshaft through the rubber
dampers has a bad seal. I noticed the leak during the post flight inspection.
A call to Roger Zerkle at ZDE has the parts in the mail and it sounds as if the
seal change should be a straight foreward job that I will be able to handle after
I make a homemade wrench to loosen the damper hub from the primary drive
shaft.
If all goes as planned the whole repair will be under $30.
I am just under 33 hours total time and the 2SI is running as advertised otherwise.
Its smooth, strong, and the average fuel burn so far is under 3.5 gph. Not
bad for a 70 hp two stroke that only weighs 105 pounds.
I'll let the list know how the repair goes.
Sincerely,
Denny Rowe
Mk-3, 2SI 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Saint <Saint(at)wccnet.edu> |
I have a '95 Firestar w ith a 503. I am in need of landing gear, nose
cone, prop (prefer 3 blade IVO), one aileron balancer, four false ribs,
both outer ribs. If anyone has or knows someone who has any of these
parts please e-mail me.
Thanks
Saint
saint(at)wccnet.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Kroll <muso2080(at)yahoo.com> |
John and everybody,
John, thanks for the reply. I've tried to do the same thing (saw the old one off
at the steel and drill out) but I found the drilling to be extremely difficult
and I managed to put a little hole in the steel in the process. I have also
made a mess of the hole (off center) What did you use for a drill bit and
how did you get it clean enough for the aluminum spring to go inside? What would
you suggest I do at this point (now that I've made a mess of it.)
Thanks
Steve Kroll
no archive
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FIXERJONES(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Venice Beach Fl ... |
thats me,steve jonesflyin the neighborhood as usual
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.L.Turner" <jimturner(at)mwt.net> |
| Subject: | Exhaust Mounting Bolts |
Received: ...with SMTP id h9G2Cc015299\n\t\234Wed, 15 Oct 200...
I recently pulled the exhaust system off my 377 Rotax to check for carbon build-up.
There is a bracket on the head of the engine that the muffler is bolted
to and I see some wear on the threads and would like to replace these bolts.
Anybody know if I need AN grade bolts or if hardened bolts will do. Thanks for
your input.
Jim Turner
Firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | what pressure do the pulse pumps see at their input? |
| From: | Jim Gerken <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
10/16/2003 07:57:39 AM
Does anyone know what the pressure pulses which drive the pulse pump
measure at their source (the crankcase fitting)? I am trying to decide if
I can drive a pulse pump with the BMW crankcase. It has a bunch of volume,
but the actual pressure is unknown because I haven't run the engine yet.
For clarity, I am interested in the crankcase pulses, not the fuel
pressure. Thanks!
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johnjung(at)compusenior.com" <johnjung(at)compusenior.com> |
Steve and Group,
I suggest that you just keep removing material with whatever size drills
that work. But stay away from the steel. Then use a drill that is full
size, (is that 3/4"?) to clean up the material near the steel. Have
patience, and it can be done. Now that you have a crooked hole, you may
want to remove a few inches of materal out to the edges, and then go deeper.
John Jung
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher J Armstrong" <tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | what pressure do the pulse pumps see at their input? |
Jim I would guess that the BMW has a single space for both pistons. If
they were both moving in and out on the same throw you would get no
pressure change, but apposed engines are nearly always on separate
throws so they would be moving in and out together, doubling the amount
of volume change that you would get with a single cylinder worth of
stroke. So my bet is you will have way plenty pressure pulse, but is
just a guess.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Gerken
Subject: Kolb-List: what pressure do the pulse pumps see at their input?
Does anyone know what the pressure pulses which drive the pulse pump
measure at their source (the crankcase fitting)? I am trying to decide
if I can drive a pulse pump with the BMW crankcase. It has a bunch of
volume, but the actual pressure is unknown because I haven't run the
engine yet. For clarity, I am interested in the crankcase pulses, not
the fuel pressure. Thanks!
Jim Gerken
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Clayton <jspc78(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: what pressure do the pulse pumps see at their input? |
Hi Jim,
I suspect you could be unhappy with a pulse pump on a
4 stroke engine:
A 2 stroke engine uses the crankcase to pressurize the
intake fuel/air charge for delivery into the cylinder.
Because of that the crankcase to designed to be
sealed from atmospheric pressure. If the seal was
compromised, such as when a crank seal fails, engine
will run poorly if at all. This design makes it a
good candidate to doing useful work with that pressure
pulse: generally no pulse pressure=no engine function.
A 4 stroke engine's crankcase has lots of opening to
atmospheric pressure: oil caps, crankcase vents, etc.
If one of the caps/vents was to come loose, you would
be facing a scenario where the engine could function
just fine, but no fuel would be pumped. Also a 4
stroke depends on the venting of crankcase pressure to
keep the oil from blowing through every seal and
gasket on the engine. If you have ever seen a worn
out engine with low compression because the rings are
shot, the pressure blowing by the rings will overwhelm
the crankcase vents, pressurizing the crankcase and
making it look like every gasket has failed at the
same time!
Assuming no engine driven pump is available, I would
suggest something like an electrically driven facet
pump. They come with various pressure outputs, so be
sure to consider the two or three feet of lift, and
measure the pressure at the carb, not the pump outlet!
Hope this helps.
-Jim
Jim Clayton
California
Mark-3X, Building...at 10%
Does anyone know what the pressure pulses which drive
the pulse pump
measure at their source (the crankcase fitting)? I am
trying to decide if
I can drive a pulse pump with the BMW crankcase. It
has a bunch of volume,
but the actual pressure is unknown because I haven't
run the engine yet.
For clarity, I am interested in the crankcase pulses,
not the fuel
pressure. Thanks!
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | [Fwd: www.matronics.com] |
Matt-- Don't know what this scam is, but I'm not answering it!1
regards,
Bob N.
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 06:59:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: Connie Davis <connie.davis(at)mail.internetseer.com>
Subject: www.matronics.com
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http://www.internetseer.com
Your email address was found during a prior visit to your website on
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
There's been a fair amount of interest in the "bent" landing gear, so I went ahead
and built the web page. Keep in mind that this is a work in progress, nothing
is painted or fine finished yet, (some may never be) and pieces are still
being modified. As the gear is completed, I'll bring the page up to date. Since
the purchase of the FireStar trailer was the cause and/or inspiration of
a lot of this mighty headache, I've combined trailer and landing gear on the same
page. This portion of the project has been a source of pride, inspiration............and
Pain. What a tangle, but I think it's gonna work out OK. I
hope.
Take a look at: http://www.biglar.homestead.com/larry.html . Go to "Building Vamoose," then to "Trailer & Landing Gear."
I hope you enjoy...........let me know what you-all think. Inventive
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> input? |
| Subject: | Re: what pressure do the pulse pumps see at their |
input?
Folks,
On a four stroke your more likely to use the intake vacuum rather than
crank case pressure pulses. I've seen it done on HKS engines and it works
fine.
jerb
>
>Hi Jim,
>
>I suspect you could be unhappy with a pulse pump on a
>4 stroke engine:
>
>A 2 stroke engine uses the crankcase to pressurize the
>intake fuel/air charge for delivery into the cylinder.
> Because of that the crankcase to designed to be
>sealed from atmospheric pressure. If the seal was
>compromised, such as when a crank seal fails, engine
>will run poorly if at all. This design makes it a
>good candidate to doing useful work with that pressure
>pulse: generally no pulse pressure=no engine function.
>
>A 4 stroke engine's crankcase has lots of opening to
>atmospheric pressure: oil caps, crankcase vents, etc.
>If one of the caps/vents was to come loose, you would
>be facing a scenario where the engine could function
>just fine, but no fuel would be pumped. Also a 4
>stroke depends on the venting of crankcase pressure to
>keep the oil from blowing through every seal and
>gasket on the engine. If you have ever seen a worn
>out engine with low compression because the rings are
>shot, the pressure blowing by the rings will overwhelm
>the crankcase vents, pressurizing the crankcase and
>making it look like every gasket has failed at the
>same time!
>
>Assuming no engine driven pump is available, I would
>suggest something like an electrically driven facet
>pump. They come with various pressure outputs, so be
>sure to consider the two or three feet of lift, and
>measure the pressure at the carb, not the pump outlet!
>
>Hope this helps.
>
>-Jim
>
>Jim Clayton
>California
>Mark-3X, Building...at 10%
>
>
>
>
>
>Does anyone know what the pressure pulses which drive
>the pulse pump
>measure at their source (the crankcase fitting)? I am
>trying to decide if
>I can drive a pulse pump with the BMW crankcase. It
>has a bunch of volume,
>but the actual pressure is unknown because I haven't
>run the engine yet.
>For clarity, I am interested in the crankcase pulses,
>not the fuel
>pressure. Thanks!
>
>Jim Gerken
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: private pilot |
At 05:28 PM 10/16/2003, you wrote:
>
>Kolbers,
>Can one receive a check ride in an Experimental aircraft for a Private
>Pilot certificate or does it have to be done in a certified GA
>airplane? Pop's sold the 150 today to one of our friends that has been
>allowed to use it for his flight training (for free) and the new owner has
>extended the offer to me but I don't know if I feel good about flying it
>solo for the rest of my training. Insurance, bending something ect.....
Yes, it's perfectly legal. The only issue is, finding someone to do
it. Many FAA types and their non-FAA counterparts have insurance that
doesn't cover them in a non-certified aircraft, so they may elect not to
give you the check ride in such a plane. But, if you can find someone that
doesn't care about that, then you can get a check ride in an Experimental,
as long as it is equipped with the basic VFR flight instrumentation.
-- Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators installed |
In a message dated 10/13/03 9:11:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
rwpike(at)charter.net writes:
> Flight testing was with mixed results, mainly because I think my airspeed
> indicator is terribly non-linear below about 40 indicated, so I can't tell
> if it is flying/stalling any slower or not. It feels like it is, for what
> that's worth. It still stalls at the same indicated airspeed as before (26
> indicated, 35 actual according to the GPS), but at a much higher apparent
> deck angle. The stall is slightly more aggressive than before, it has a
> clean break, both straight ahead, power off and accelerated, but still
> fairly mild & easy to live with.
>
>
I believe Vortex Generators help mostly where there is a higher stall speed
[before they are installed]. If your stall speed is already low, then their
effect is not as great.
I'll be surprised if your top speed decreased because of the VG's; since they
allow your wing to fly at less of an angle of attack there should be less
drag.
Howard Shackleford
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave & Eve Pelletier" <pelletier(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [Fwd: www.matronics.com] |
Yeah, I got it too. Didn't answer.
AzDave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: [Fwd: www.matronics.com]
>
> Matt-- Don't know what this scam is, but I'm not answering it!1
>
> regards,
>
> Bob N.
> Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2003 06:59:35 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Connie Davis <connie.davis(at)mail.internetseer.com>
> To: ronoy(at)shentel.net
> Subject: www.matronics.com
>
> ------=_Part_22674_3493228.1066301975578
>
website:
> due to the following reason: 404 Not Found
>
> We discovered this error during our normal course of website content
> checking for one of our search engine clients.
>
> If you would like your website monitored for free and receive
> notifications like this in the future, click here:
>
http://scclick.internetseer.com/sitecheck/clickthrough.jsp?I5s57d5f5f5j5g5i5
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xM5bSwS6v5cSLWx5c5f5c5m5i5aXTCC55x5q5i=e3
>
> Click here to learn more about us:
>
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xM5bSwS6v5cSLWx5c5f5c5m5i5aXTCC55x5q5h=e3
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Connie Davis
> InternetSeer.com
> http://www.internetseer.com
>
> Your email address was found during a prior visit to your website on
> 12-28-2002. The error listed above was verified from both of our
> indexing servers in Philadelphia, Pa. and Los Angeles, Ca. This error
could
> have been caused by any number of events, including connectivity problems
on
> our part and/or connectivity problems in the Internet as we tried to reach
> your site. This error should not be construed as a guaranteed problem on
the
> part of your website or hosting company since there are never any
guaranteed
> connection routes on the Internet.
>
> If would like to be excluded from any potential future contact, click
here:
>
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>
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> ------=_Part_22674_3493228.1066301975578
>
>
> www.matronics.com
>
>
>
website:
>
>
> due to the following reason: 404 Not Found
>
>
> We discovered this error during our normal course of website content
checking
> for one of our search engine clients.
>
>
> If you would like your website monitored for free and receive
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> We found this page by following a link on one of the URLs listed
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>
> Sincerely,
>
>
> Connie Davis
>
> InternetSeer.com
>
>
> Your email address was found during a prior visit to your website on
12-28-2002.
> The error listed above was verified from both of our indexing servers
in
> Philadelphia, Pa. and Los Angeles, Ca. This error could have been
caused by
> any number of events, including connectivity problems on our part
and/or
> connectivity problems in the Internet as we tried to reach your site.
This
> error should not be construed as a guaranteed problem on the part of
your
> website or hosting company since there are never any guaranteed
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwight.Kottke(at)hti.htch.com |
10/17/2003 09:01:46 AM,
Serialize complete at 10/17/2003 09:01:46 AM,
Itemize by SMTP Server on HUDOMGW1/HTI(Release 5.0.12 |February 13, 2003)
at
10/17/2003 09:01:29 AM,
Serialize by Router on HUDOMGW1/HTI(Release 5.0.12 |February 13, 2003)
at
10/17/2003 09:01:31 AM,
Serialize complete at 10/17/2003 09:01:31 AM
I currently fly a Firestar with a 377 that is silver in color. I picked
up a spare 377 that is black. My question is; is there any way to check
externally if an engine has CDI ignition?
The Flying Farmer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Dwight,
The CDI ignition is under the intake manifold and attached to the engine. You can't
miss it as it has spark plug wires coming out of it.
Ralph
Original Firestar
16 years flying it
-- Dwight.Kottke(at)hti.htch.com wrote:
I currently fly a Firestar with a 377 that is silver in color. I picked
up a spare 377 that is black. My question is; is there any way to check
externally if an engine has CDI ignition?
The Flying Farmer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators installed |
Question, VG's allow the wing to fly at less angle of attach than without
them? I would think its just the other way around. Wouldn't they allow
the wing to fly with a higher angle of attack (required to slow down more)
before stalling? Am I missing something here.
jerb
>
>In a message dated 10/13/03 9:11:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>rwpike(at)charter.net writes:
>
>
> > Flight testing was with mixed results, mainly because I think my airspeed
> > indicator is terribly non-linear below about 40 indicated, so I can't tell
> > if it is flying/stalling any slower or not. It feels like it is, for what
> > that's worth. It still stalls at the same indicated airspeed as before (26
> > indicated, 35 actual according to the GPS), but at a much higher apparent
> > deck angle. The stall is slightly more aggressive than before, it has a
> > clean break, both straight ahead, power off and accelerated, but still
> > fairly mild & easy to live with.
> >
> >
>
>I believe Vortex Generators help mostly where there is a higher stall speed
>[before they are installed]. If your stall speed is already low, then their
>effect is not as great.
>
>
>I'll be surprised if your top speed decreased because of the VG's; since they
>allow your wing to fly at less of an angle of attack there should be less
>drag.
>
>Howard Shackleford
>FS II
>SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dwight.Kottke(at)hti.htch.com |
10/17/2003 10:32:13 AM,
Serialize complete at 10/17/2003 10:32:13 AM,
Itemize by SMTP Server on HUDOMGW1/HTI(Release 5.0.12 |February 13, 2003)
at
10/17/2003 10:31:56 AM,
Serialize by Router on HUDOMGW1/HTI(Release 5.0.12 |February 13, 2003)
at
10/17/2003 10:31:58 AM,
Serialize complete at 10/17/2003 10:31:58 AM
Nope, my two coils are mounted vertically on top of each other beside the
cooling fan, with leads running down thru a grommet behind the recoil. No
box anywhere in site. Kind of sounds like I have points don't it!
ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Sent by: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
10/17/2003 09:37 AM
Please respond to kolb-list
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
cc: (bcc: Dwight Kottke/CNTR/HUT/HTI)
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: CDI
Dwight,
The CDI ignition is under the intake manifold and attached to the engine.
You can't miss it as it has spark plug wires coming out of it.
Ralph
Original Firestar
16 years flying it
-- Dwight.Kottke(at)hti.htch.com wrote:
I currently fly a Firestar with a 377 that is silver in color. I picked
up a spare 377 that is black. My question is; is there any way to check
externally if an engine has CDI ignition?
The Flying Farmer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators installed |
Not missing anything..it works both ways, (in theory). You should be able
to carry a higher angle near stall AND a lesser angle at cruise. -BB
jerb wrote:
>
>Question, VG's allow the wing to fly at less angle of attach than without
>them? I would think its just the other way around. Wouldn't they allow
>the wing to fly with a higher angle of attack (required to slow down more)
>before stalling? Am I missing something here.
>jerb
>
>
>
>
>>
>>In a message dated 10/13/03 9:11:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>>rwpike(at)charter.net writes:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>Flight testing was with mixed results, mainly because I think my airspeed
>>>indicator is terribly non-linear below about 40 indicated, so I can't tell
>>>if it is flying/stalling any slower or not. It feels like it is, for what
>>>that's worth. It still stalls at the same indicated airspeed as before (26
>>>indicated, 35 actual according to the GPS), but at a much higher apparent
>>>deck angle. The stall is slightly more aggressive than before, it has a
>>>clean break, both straight ahead, power off and accelerated, but still
>>>fairly mild & easy to live with.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>I believe Vortex Generators help mostly where there is a higher stall speed
>>[before they are installed]. If your stall speed is already low, then their
>>effect is not as great.
>>
>>
>>I'll be surprised if your top speed decreased because of the VG's; since they
>>allow your wing to fly at less of an angle of attack there should be less
>>drag.
>>
>>Howard Shackleford
>>FS II
>>SC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators installed |
I think we are talking about the other end of the speed spectrum. At cruise
speed, the MKIII wing has about a 5-7 degree angle of attack relative to
the horizon, and even at max speed, it still has an obvious positive angle
of attack relative to the horizon in level flight. The question would be
whether or not VG's reduce that angle of attack. Since I never actually
measured what that angle of attack was at max speed (Although I sort of
remember what it looked like) all I could do is go fly and see if it looks
like it is now less. Not very scientific.
I do disagree with Howard, I doubt that there is enough of an angle of
attack reduction to help, but it is sort of a subjective suspicion rather
than an objective rationale, maybe he is right.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Question, VG's allow the wing to fly at less angle of attach than without
>them? I would think its just the other way around. Wouldn't they allow
>the wing to fly with a higher angle of attack (required to slow down more)
>before stalling? Am I missing something here.
>jerb
>
>
> >I'll be surprised if your top speed decreased because of the VG's; since
> they
> >allow your wing to fly at less of an angle of attack there should be less
> >drag.
> >
> >Howard Shackleford
> >FS II
> >SC
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
Points ignition has two coils, one per spark plug, and an external oblong
ignition damping box. The CDI ignition has only one coil and both spark
wires originate from it.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>I currently fly a Firestar with a 377 that is silver in color. I picked
>up a spare 377 that is black. My question is; is there any way to check
>externally if an engine has CDI ignition?
>
>The Flying Farmer
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Dwight,
Yep, your new engine has points. The black CDI does not have a box, but a molded
housing for the coil and capacitor discharge circuit.
Ralph
-- Dwight.Kottke(at)hti.htch.com wrote:
Nope, my two coils are mounted vertically on top of each other beside the
cooling fan, with leads running down thru a grommet behind the recoil. No
box anywhere in site. Kind of sounds like I have points don't it!
ul15rhb(at)juno.com
Sent by: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
10/17/2003 09:37 AM
Please respond to kolb-list
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
cc: (bcc: Dwight Kottke/CNTR/HUT/HTI)
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: CDI
Dwight,
The CDI ignition is under the intake manifold and attached to the engine.
You can't miss it as it has spark plug wires coming out of it.
Ralph
Original Firestar
16 years flying it
-- Dwight.Kottke(at)hti.htch.com wrote:
I currently fly a Firestar with a 377 that is silver in color. I picked
up a spare 377 that is black. My question is; is there any way to check
externally if an engine has CDI ignition?
The Flying Farmer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators installed |
--- Richard Pike wrote:
>
> I think we are talking about the other end of the speed spectrum. At
> cruise
> speed, the MKIII wing has about a 5-7 degree angle of attack relative
> to
> the horizon, and even at max speed, it still has an obvious positive
> angle
> of attack relative to the horizon in level flight. The question would
> be
> whether or not VG's reduce that angle of attack. Since I never
> actually
> measured what that angle of attack was at max speed
The question can be avoided if we go back to what VGs really do. My
hack definition: they disturb the airflow, introducing small turbulent
flows in the boundary layer of an airfoil. This turbulence makes a
thicker "more energized" boundary layer, reducing the tendency for the
laminar airflow to separate from the boundary layer. Separation stall, so avoiding
separation means stall speeds happen at greater AOA.
So, if the laminar flow is not trying to separate in our so-called
"high speeds" and low AOA, then VGs and their affect of turbulating the
boundary layer are irrelevant. I think the only thing left is for them
to create drag. The right shape and placement can minimize this,
leaving just the already agreed upon low speed benefits. Pin stripes
on the other hand, are well known to increase speed by several knots,
regardless of AOA. :)
BTW Richard, I'm impressed you were able to make and install VGs in
just 3+ hours. It takes me that long just to gas up! I plan on VGs
too -- will play it chicken and start out with adhesive attachment.
-Ben
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators installed |
In a message dated 10/17/03 11:05:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
ulflyer(at)verizon.net writes:
> Question, VG's allow the wing to fly at less angle of attach than without
> them? I would think its just the other way around. Wouldn't they allow
> the wing to fly with a higher angle of attack (required to slow down more)
> before stalling? Am I missing something here.
> jerb
>
>
>
Perhaps my wording was misleading. VG's do allow the wing to fly with a
higher angle of attack, but they also will give more lift at a lower angle of
attack than the same wing without the VG's[less drag], so without changing rpm,
top speed should increase.
Most of my opinions about the effects of VG's are theoretical, however, I do
know from personal experience & from the first-hand reports of 50 or 60 users
of VG's made from my plans that their use will USUALLY lower stall by 4-5 mph.
Planes without flaps seem to benefit the most ie. Firestars.
Howard Shackleford
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ron wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
I was told to make a choice!!!,the kolb or my minimax i built the max and it ain't
goin' nowhere ,so the kolb has got to go,it is in very good shape,flys great,nice
plane.4k or offer, email for pics of info. it is ready to go ,,don't even
need gas,,it is READY.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Vortex generators installed |
VG aficionados,
The best treatise on the subject I've found is http://www.nar-associates.com/technical-flying/vortex/Vgs_cruise_wide.pdf
It states unequivocally that VGs lower stall speeds AND increase drag which necessarily
reduces cruise speed. This articles summarizes the rigorous tests that
were performed to demonstrate this empirically. At 75% cruise power in this
test, the cruise speed was reduced by about 2.1%. On most Kolbs this would translate
to between 1-2 mph.
I just made a set this afternoon for the 84-FS-377 and am waiting for better weather
to try them out. I used Jack Harts design but did not cut the sloping angle,
i.e., left them full 3/8" high front to back. All other designs I have seen
leave the vertical section full height throughout so I did the same.
For me, the reduction in stall speed and better roll control is worth the slight
reduction in cruise.
Thom Riddle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex generators installed |
Kolbers,
One must be careful as to what effect your VG's are going to have and to understand
what is going on. If you have them set so that they are over 45 degrees
to the undisturbed air flow, you have a turbulator. This trips the boundary layer
and causes the air to separate from the surface and to roll back over the
wing. The roll axis is parallel to the wing surface and perpendicular to the
undisturbed air flow. In the case of turbulators, you actually decrease lift
and so increase stall speed and parasitic drag. This is why they are used inboard
on wing to cause the inner most section of the wing to stall before the
outer portion.
The trick of VG's is to keep the angle to the undisturbed air flow as small as
possible and to form little swirls whose axis is perpendicular to the wing. This
minimizes parasitic drag. They delay boundary layer thickness formation, and
as result, they delay overall laminar airflow separation from the wing until
the air has passed further back over the wing. For a given speed and angle
of attack the wing will produce more lift and the center of lift will move toward
the rear. So if one is going to continue to cruise at the same indicated
air speed, the angle of attack will be reduced until the wing is developing the
same total lift as it was before the VG's were installed.
The FireFly wing is a high camber wing, and high camber wing induced drag changes
rapidly with angle of attack. So anything one can do to reduce the cruise
angle of attack and for a given power input, it will give a better cruise speed.
If you are not copying a proven set up from another plane, I believe the best way
to determine what is best for your plane is to make up a bunch of them and
tape them on the wing with electricians tape. Start out with a few and keep adding
on successive flights to determine what is best. The easiest test is to
use a hard surfaced runway, and to nurse the plane off into ground effect. As
you add VG's the indicated airspeed will decrease at which the plane will lift
off. At some point the adding of VG's will have no effect and this determines
how many to put on. Then the plane is ready to go to altitude for slow flight
and stall tests. You will be amazed at how slow it will fly, and how stable
it has become.
In my case the FireFly has 18 VG's on each wing. No way would I take them off.
I can fly any time of the day through just about anything. Whoops! I have
been gone a few days and I am starting to ramble. If you are interested, you
can see them starting at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly17.html
These VG's have been mounted for over three years with some of them inside the
propeller arc, and none have come loose.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Mason <masonclan(at)sbcglobal.net> |
September 30, 2003 - October 19, 2003
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-en