Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ep
November 04, 2003 - November 16, 2003
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: dual Facet fuel pumps, how best to plumb? |
Jim/gang
I wont venture in to whether or not running your pumps in serial or
parrallel is the better way. I can certainly see advantages and
disadvantages to both methods. But..I wouild like to clear up a few things
here I have noticed that are not exactly correct.
1. Crankcase Pulse pumps will in fact work fine on 4-strokes. And all the
current production small industrial 4-stroke use them as factory equipment
because we have found that this is the most dependable method.(read that
less warranty..lower failure rates..and not dependant on other than engine
factors. et al switch failures..broken wires..electricity failures)
Remember...we attempt to get 3500 to 4000 hours without failures in this
industry.
2. "Facet" style electric pumps have little if no flow resistance when not
running...and Mikuni style pulse pumps have no flow resistance either..so
one can pump thru the other in serial fashion.
3 . The "new " style mikuni polymer bodied pulse pumps have significantly
more volume than the old cast aluminum bodied ones, and also are less prone
to vapor lock problems. They also vent excess oil that comes from the pulse
line better..in fact they are virtually impossible to "oil lock" when
mounted with the vent down. However, they are not rebuildable or repairable.
You mentioned that in the BMW engine, both pistons hit BDC/TDC together. OK
so this would likely give a very strong impulse. What information do you
have that suggests this would inhibit the use of a pulse pump?
I have searched my available info and cannot come up with "maximum or
minimum" impulse requirements and I am very curious on this subject.
thx....
Don Gherardini
Sales / Engineering dept.
American Honda Engines
Power Equipment Company
800-626-7326
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
Subject: | Re: dual Facet fuel pumps, how best to plumb? |
At 01:25 PM 11/4/2003, you wrote:
>
>2. "Facet" style electric pumps have little if no flow resistance when not
>running...and Mikuni style pulse pumps have no flow resistance either..so
>one can pump thru the other in serial fashion.
Empirically, I can tell you from first-hand experience, that a Facet _can_
create enough of a restriction to keep sufficient fuel from reaching the
carbs. I pitched the errant Facet, thus I didn't dissect it to find out
whether it was a particle caught in the pump, or if the built-in one-way
valves got jammed, but, regardless, when the pump was off and it was in
series, it (after 3 years of excellent use) failed in some way enough to
slow the flow so that when I wanted full power, it wouldn't deliver. (I
figured this out because I had a flow meter.)
From that point on, I run all my pumps in parallel. (But I still use
Facet's... I just leave 'em on all the time, now!)
-- Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: M3X throttle configuration |
Hmmm................thought there was a picture of that thing on my site.
There is now..............look under "Building Vamoose," "Single Pictures,"
and open "Left Hand Throttle." Sorry 'bout that. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: M3X throttle configuration
>
> You're prob'ly gonna get as many opinions as there are people building,
but
> here's my .02................ when I 1st started fooling with this, it
felt
> uncomfortable reaching across my stomach for the throttle, so I built a
new
> throttle position on the left, giving me left hand for throttle, right
hand
> for stick. I've since been told that you quickly get used to reaching,
but
> I'm still gonna stick with one on each side. Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Mrk IIIX baggage door |
From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
11/04/2003 03:25:49 PM
Craig:
Thats the best looking Kolb I have seen. Please stop - you are making some
of us look bad!
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Throttles and Fuel Pumps |
Hi Gang:
I use a center throttle and fly from the right seat.
MKIII's fly the same, one seat or the other. To make it
work real nice from the right seat, I have dual controls.
This provides me with a control stick between my legs.
I have flown the factory MKIII in the standard
configuration, center stick, center throttle. After 5
minutes I was I was comfortable with it, although, I don't
want my own airplane configured that way.
I can hold the stick with my knees, control the aircraft to
a limited degree with them, while I do other chores in the
cockpit, like unfolding charts, loading film in the camera,
feeding my face and getting a drink of water.
I had the same set up in my Firestar, throttle left and
stick between my legs.
I have used Facet fuel pumps since the original Firestar
days as a boost/backup pump for the engine driven pump,
whether mikuni pulse or engine driven diaphragm type. I
always plumb them in series. I use the boost pump for take
off and landings, plus when I am flying below 1,000 feet
AGL. Never worn out a Facet. Never had one block the
delivery of fuel.
I have had two engine failures because of pilot error for
not draining and checking fuel after refueling from
"unknown" type sources. One was water, the other was tiny
nylon bristles from the flushing of a new fuel pump filler
hose and a 1,000 gal fuel trailer.
I use a standard mesh finger strainer in the bottom of the
fuel tank, into the facet (located at the bottom level of
the tank), through a Purolator cartridge type fuel filter
that uses nylon cylindrical filter elements, through the
engine driven pump to a "T" and then to each carb. System
works great as long as pilot does his job. Close to 3,000
hours on this system in MKIII and Firestar without failure
of the system. The Puralator filter was first installed on
my Ultrastar in 1984. Wish I knew how many gallons of fuel
have been pumped through that little filter in the last 19
years. I did make one major modification to the Purolator.
I changed out the glass cylinder and replaced it with a
.058 X 7/8 or 1 inch aluminum tube. The original glass
cracked the first night I had it installed on the Ultrastar
and drained 6 gal of fuel on the ground.
I prefer to keep my systems as simple and user friendly as
possible. You can make yours as complicated as you desire.
It is the nature of our system!
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Kolbers,
Did any of you rivet the rudder horn on to the rudder then cover. Or rivet the
horn on after covering? Or does it matter.
pp
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "ron wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
Subject: | Re: Mrk IIIX baggage door |
just wish mine had a pod to paint,,ron flying a original
ultrastar!!,yee'haw!
----- Original Message -----
From: <Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Mrk IIIX baggage door
>
>
> Craig:
>
> Thats the best looking Kolb I have seen. Please stop - you are making
some
> of us look bad!
>
> Erich Weaver
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James and Cathy Tripp" <jtripp(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Paul,
There's 2 control horns on the rudder. I riveted both in place before
covering. There's no way to do it afterwards, at least on the FS.
James Tripp
FSII
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: rudder horn
>
> Kolbers,
> Did any of you rivet the rudder horn on to the rudder then cover. Or rivet
the horn on after covering? Or does it matter.
>
> pp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Throttles and Fuel Pumps |
I have the dual sticks and the center throttle. I'm left-handed, and have
no sense of tradition, so using my left hand on the stick and right on the
throttle works just fine.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Throttles and Fuel Pumps
>
> Hi Gang:
>
> I use a center throttle and fly from the right seat.
> MKIII's fly the same, one seat or the other. To make it
> work real nice from the right seat, I have dual controls.
> This provides me with a control stick between my legs.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | BMWBikeCrz(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Craig's Plane |
NICE SHIP !!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
I riveted mine to the horn 1st..set it up and rigged it..the entire
plane....that away I could make any changes If needed to without bothering
the fabric..
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Craig's Plane |
Thats a beautiful bird Craig!...(APPLAUSE)...
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Craig's Plane |
That is a gorgeous looking airplane. Its really a
poster child for the Mark 3 Xtra. That pod is really
great looking. Takes away that jungle of protrusions
that so typifies the engines of our class of
airplane.
=====
Ron
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0(at)msn.com> |
Paul,
Tim and I put the horn on first. that way you can put real nice reinforcing tape
around the horn. Just looks moor air-crafty to me.
Uncle Craig
MKIIIex912uls
Arizona
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Petty
Subject: Kolb-List: rudder horn
Kolbers,
Did any of you rivet the rudder horn on to the rudder then cover. Or rivet the
horn on after covering? Or does it matter.
pp
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | List Fund Raiser - Wow, Have You Seen The Free Gifts? |
Dear Listers,
The List Fund Raiser is going well so far this year and I wanted to say
"Thank You" to everyone that has made a Contribution already this year!
Though the generous support of Andy Gold and the Builders Bookstore (
http://www.buildersbooks.com ), I'm able to offer some truly awesome gifts
with qualifying Contributions this year. There's quite a line up and a
rather diverse set of options - certainly something for every taste and
personality. Here's a list of this year's fine options:
* List Archive CD
* Aircraft Builder's Log
* Pilot Flashlight System
* Pro Pilot Logbook
* FAR/AIM on CD
* Jeppesen Flight Bag
* Aviation History Book
* Techstar Flight Computer
Please support your Email List Community AND pick up a really slick Gift at
the same time! The SSL Secure Contribution web site can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/contributions
Once again, I would like to thank everyone that has so generously supported
the continued operation and upgrade of the Lists Services here on the
Matronics servers!!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: List Fund Raiser - Wow, Have You Seen The Free Gifts? |
From: | Dwight.Kottke(at)hti.htch.com |
11/05/2003 07:43:54 AM,
Serialize complete at 11/05/2003 07:43:54 AM,
Itemize by SMTP Server on HUDOMGW1/HTI(Release 5.0.12 |February 13, 2003)
at
11/05/2003 07:43:41 AM,
Serialize by Router on HUDOMGW1/HTI(Release 5.0.12 |February 13, 2003)
at
11/05/2003 07:43:43 AM,
Serialize complete at 11/05/2003 07:43:43 AM
Matt, I just sent in a contribution to your fine publication. I did
notice one thing though. The time stamp is three hours earlier than I am
here in the central time zone. So either you have not turned your clock
back yet or you are in the Alaska time zone.....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Original Firestar Totalled |
Morning Gang:
Just got off the phone with Paul "Bart" Bartholomew, Wax
Hax, NC. Was good to talk to him. Been a long time.
The Original Firestar was built by Bart and three other
JAARS people in 1987. They shared ownership in the
ultralight. It was registered experimental, the only one I
know of sporting an "N" number.
JAARS is the acronym for Jungle Air and Radio Service. They
support translators for the Wycliff Bible Society,
translating the Bible into some languages that do not have
written words. In these cases, they must develop the
written language in order to translate the Bible. They work
primarily in South American, the Pacific, and other remote
countries of the world. Here is a link to their web site:
http://www.jaars.org/
This is the link to the aviation side of JAARS:
http://www.jaars.org/aviation.shtml
Neil was flying the Firestar when it went down. He was
doing the classic low level, slow flight around a group of
friends on the ground. Got to slow, too tight, stalled the
aircraft and went into the woods. Left wing made contact
with a tree trunk about 6" in diameter, just to the left of
the fuselage. This caused the aircraft to spin left helping
dissipate a lot of energy while it was still crashing. Neil
ended up with a cut on his forehead only. Another Kolb
survivor. However, the Firestar is now history. Bart said
it was too far gone for rebuild.
This Firestar was still powered by the original 377 Rotax
and had 870 hours time on airframe and engine. Bart told me
if you take care of the engine, watch those temps, that they
will last a long time. This is probably record time for a
377 without a crank rebuild. Their flights were made
primarily at 4,300 rpm. Not in a hurry to go anywhere, they
sorta levitated over the trees and mountains, enjoying what
God has given them. This was Homer Kolb's idea of what the
Ultrastar and Firestar were to be used for.
They have acquired a Firestar II and are in the process of
getting it flyable. It is powered by a 503 and is "N" numbered.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net> |
Man, I'm never going to get my plane finished after seeing Craig's work. I just
ordered a joggle tool to make my fuel doors flush mounted. I hadn't thought
of that before. I am planning on using Hartwell flush mount cowl latches to
secure the doors instead of Craig's cam-locks. Should they be OK?
Craig can you detail all the switches on the panel below your instrument pod?
I plan on using the stock Mark IIIXtra pod inverted to look much like Craig's,
but maybe put my GPS on a stalk mount off to my left. I don't believe that there
is enough room for the GPS on the stock pod.
Craig, what is the little scooped out place on your nose cone for? How did you
fabricate that change?
Craig, when are you going to start taking orders for engine cowlings?
Thanks,
Clay Stuart
Building Xtra, but losing ground because of Craig's inspiring craftsmanship
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Paul/All:
Think about that piece a minute, what its purpose in life
is, then decide what to do.
If you have anymore questions, let'em fly.
john h
Would any
> of you use the 2 pieces in there or order a 12" piece
> from somewhere?
>
> pp
________________________________________________________________________________
Well.... the insert is where the rudder horn rivet's to the rudder...soooo I
assume it's purpose in life is to add strength to that section of the
rudder. But I was wondering if the extra strength was in it's length or
thickness. Guess I better order a new piece... bummer more waiting oh well..
Not going to have the painted steel parts back for week anyway. Did you all
let the epoxy primer cure for 7 days like Jim has suggested ?
pp
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: insert
>
> Paul/All:
>
> Think about that piece a minute, what its purpose in life
> is, then decide what to do.
>
> If you have anymore questions, let'em fly.
>
> john h
>
> Would any
> > of you use the 2 pieces in there or order a 12" piece
> > from somewhere?
> >
> > pp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
I looked at the photo of Craigs plane today. I remembered an old tip to
make paint design more artisticly pleasing. If you outline the colours in
black either with a small paint brush or 1/16 or 1/8 pinstipping tape the
design will be a lot more dramatic. Check it out . Print a copy of craigs
plane and then ink in an outline between each colour. A good paint scheme
becomes a great paint scheme.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
Subject: | Dual Facet fuel pumps |
Jim Gerken wrote:
<>
Jim, and Kolbers -
My vote would be install in series.
My Verner (2cyl, 4-stroke, horiz opposed) came equipped with a mechanical
pump, but I installed a Facet in series with it. I turn the Facet on for
takeoffs & landings. The Facet will still allow fuel to pass if failed or
turned off. No need for a check valve, which would only introduce more
failure points. The solid-state nature of the Facet makes it simple and
reliable for many (hundreds, probably thousands) of hours. Two Facets
should give you plenty of redundancy.
Good luck with the BMW installation!
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, s/n-300
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> Well.... the insert is where the rudder horn rivet's to
> the rudder...soooo I assume it's purpose in life is to
> add strength to that section of the rudder. But I was
> wondering if the extra strength was in it's length or
> thickness. Guess I better order a new piece... bummer
> more waiting oh well.. Not going to have the painted
> steel parts back for week anyway. Did you all let the
> epoxy primer cure for 7 days like Jim has suggested ?
>
> pp
Paul/All:
If I am not badly mistaken, you are right.
There is a tremendous about of stress put on the rudder at
the point the rudder horn is attached. This is caused
primarily by the load of the rudder cables. During normal
operation, the load is normal. However, as the stress
factor is increased on the pilot, so it is on the rudder
pedals, cables, horn, and leading edge of the rudder.
If you installed two 6" pieces instead of one 12" piece, the
inserts would not do much good when the pilot got scared and
pushed the rudder pedals through the nose cone.
Take care,
john h
PS: What size is that tube?
PSS: Don't forget to put the sleeves (inserts) in the
trailing edge of the horizontal and vertical stabilizer. I
also added inserts in the leading edges of the horizontal
and upper vertical stabilizer. One of these days I am going
to put some 1/16" SS cable on them to stabilize the leading
edges which do move around a bit during flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
Subject: | Re: M3X throttle configuration |
Big Lar wrote:
<< it felt uncomfortable reaching across my stomach for the throttle, so I
built a new throttle position on the left, giving me left hand for throttle,
right hand for stick. Lar.>>
I did the same thing on my Mark-3 Classic.
During construction, I sat for many hours in the left seat of the cockpit
and could not get comfortable reaching across my stomach with my left hand
to grasp the throttle. Felt very awkward. Welded a small tab on the left
side of the cockpit for a new throttle quadrant mount. Glad I did it! I
find that my throttle hand (left) is on the throttle 90 percent of the time.
Dennis Kirby
N93DK
New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "boyd young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
Subject: | shuting down private strips |
Thanks for the great responce to my questions in regards to neighbors
complaining of our flying of our small grass strip. There were alot of good thoughts
a few years ago there was a simular problem...... 20 miles from here there is
a private airport on a hilside and a developer wanted to put a subdivision on
one end of the airport thus causing the airport to be closed. the owner
of the private strip petitioned the faa to have a buffer zone at the end of the
runway, to my knowledg the faa inspected the airport and found it to be installed
legaly and the subdivision is not there. in short if you were to check
with your local fsdo office maybe they can give you some sugestions.
also the tremonton municipal airport was closed because the city no longer wanted
it and there was nothing the fbo opperator could do about it. go figure
good luck
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "boyd young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
Subject: | paterns at private strips |
If you have a private strip you can fly whatever
pattern you like. Even in the AIM the pattern we fly
is a recommended pattern. Off a Golf course you guys
can fly anything you wish......................
this is probably true.... but you should inform the faa of the patterns you are
using so that it can be added to or updated in the airport directory. thay
way if anyone were to visit they would not cause you a problem. there has also
been complaints from golfers.. with that possibility it is or could be a
catch 22 problem.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Craig Nelson |
Clay,
thanks for the kind words---It's not just me, Milow Tim has helped also. He is
the man behind the HVLP paint sprayer. We hope to get our web sight up again.
the Hartwell latches will work fine.
as far as the switches below the panel, first is the intercom below that is the
com radio and then the transponder. IN the next row the far right switch is
the avionics master it will power the gps radio transponder. and eis. each of
which has a circuit barker underneath. the next switch is the strobe switch, which
also has a circuit barker on the bottom row, the switch to the right of that
is an aux, fuel pump which is also protected by a circuit barker. the next
hole is for the master switch. I haven't decided where to pot the mag switches
or the starter switch. I think I will use switches instead of keys because I
don't think I'm going to do the new starter for the uls. The Rotax distributor
here in the Phoenix area has shown me how to start without the slipper clutch
and moor powerful starter. Turn the engine over with throttle closed and mags
off for 3 seconds.poower up the mags and it fires right up no shake no rattle
no roll. and no there isn't enough room for a gps that's why the new pod.
The scoop is a naca air duct (copied from an Indy car) for ventilation in the hot
desert. just cut a hole in the fiber glass and bonded it in. I'm going to sell
cowlings just need to see the performance first.
Uncle Craig MKIIIex912uls
Arizona
----- Original Message -----
From: Clay Stuart
Subject: Kolb-List: Craig Nelson
Man, I'm never going to get my plane finished after seeing Craig's work. I just
ordered a joggle tool to make my fuel doors flush mounted. I hadn't thought
of that before. I am planning on using Hartwell flush mount cowl latches to
secure the doors instead of Craig's cam-locks. Should they be OK?
Craig can you detail all the switches on the panel below your instrument pod?
I plan on using the stock Mark IIIXtra pod inverted to look much like Craig's,
but maybe put my GPS on a stalk mount off to my left. I don't believe that there
is enough room for the GPS on the stock pod.
Craig, what is the little scooped out place on your nose cone for? How did you
fabricate that change?
Craig, when are you going to start taking orders for engine cowlings?
Thanks,
Clay Stuart
Building Xtra, but losing ground because of Craig's inspiring craftsmanship
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Craig Nelson |
> I think I
> will use switches instead of keys because I don't think
> I'm going to do the new starter for the uls. The Rotax
> distributor here in the Phoenix area has shown me how to
> start without the slipper clutch and moor powerful
> starter. Turn the engine over with throttle closed and
> mags off for 3 seconds.poower up the mags and it fires
> right up no shake no rattle no roll.
Uncle Craig
Uncle Craig/All:
I started my 912S for 600 hours with the little starter and
minus the slip clutch.
I knew how to start it and very seldom ever got it into the
shakes. Got used to that way of starting.
Updated to new starter and slip clutch recently. Cost was
$651.00. Lot of money, but worth every penny of it. I'll
never look back. Hit the new starter, hear a short
zippp!!!!!!!!!! and the 912S is idling.
The slip clutch is a great improvement over the original
spring loaded dogs. Torsional vibration dampening is taken
care of much better than the older system. Most engine
vibrate feedback in the airframe is gone. What else can I
say? There is more to it than simply start up!
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: epoxy primer |
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Petty
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: insert
Did you all
let the epoxy primer cure for 7 days like Jim has suggested ?
pp
We primed lots of parts whale we were building the wings and control surfaces but
the cowl and nose pieces we primed and waited about 15 to 20 min for them to
tack up then sprayed aero-thane right over it.
uncle Craig MKIIIex 912uls
Arizona
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Instruments for Sale |
pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com, commander-list(at)matronics.com,
aerobatic-list(at)matronics.com, europa-list(at)matronics.com
I have the following for sale:
RC Allen Electric Attitude Indicator with 8 degree tilt, 14V, approx. 75hrs
RC Allen Electric Direction Gyro, 14V, 150 hrs,
Both instruments are in my RV-8A still flying. Been flying in my plane for 1
year.
Instruments retail for $1895 each. Make an offer off list. Please respond
direct to: lenleg(at)aol.com
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
________________________________________________________________________________
Kolbers,
Almost finished with my rudder and need some advice. The plans call for two braces
that go from the rudders leading edge down to the bottom and the trailing
edge. Using the "radius" method, the upper brace would need to be bent so that
it could be attached to the leading edge. Would this be ok?
pp
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | rotax 503 starter |
Hi guys,
I am looking for a 90deg. starter for my mini-Max that I am building. If you
know of one please contact me off list.
Thanks,
Tom Guidroz Kolb MKIII 259
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: Airport complaints |
Years ago I was a controller at Albany Ga., and Navy Albany was a thriving
base on the east side of town. Unfortunately, there was a woman named Marie
Green living under left base to Rwy 22, and she had a lot of money and
nothing better to do than write letters to congressmen and senators.
All us FAA types (and many local politicians) were convinced that she
singlehandedly moved that Navy squadron from Albany to Key West.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> The story about the rich old lady shutting down an airport community is
> scary.
>
>Rex Rodebush
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: Firestar Questions |
Several years ago I put plastic streamline over the landing gear legs and
had to retrim the MKIII due to the reduction in drag.
Draw your own conclusions.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Hello Group,
>A friend and I just purchased a completed Firestar II kit. I have a couple
>of questions on options. What is the opinion on streamlined lift struts? Any
>advantage other than looks?
>Thanks in advance,
>Larry Autin
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce Harrison" <firestarii(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Re: Original Firestar Totalled |
Glad to hear Neil is all right. He was my flying buddy a few years back. In
fact, he was the test pilot on my first FSII.
Sorry to hear the 'ol Firestar is history, though, that had to be one of the
highest-time FS's out there. I pleaded with him years ago to replace that
377, but looks like it ran great right to the end.
>
>Morning Gang:
>
>Just got off the phone with Paul "Bart" Bartholomew, Wax
>Hax, NC. Was good to talk to him. Been a long time.
>
>The Original Firestar was built by Bart and three other
>JAARS people in 1987. They shared ownership in the
>ultralight. It was registered experimental, the only one I
>know of sporting an "N" number.
>
>JAARS is the acronym for Jungle Air and Radio Service. They
>support translators for the Wycliff Bible Society,
>translating the Bible into some languages that do not have
>written words. In these cases, they must develop the
>written language in order to translate the Bible. They work
>primarily in South American, the Pacific, and other remote
>countries of the world. Here is a link to their web site:
>
>http://www.jaars.org/
>
>This is the link to the aviation side of JAARS:
>
>http://www.jaars.org/aviation.shtml
>
>Neil was flying the Firestar when it went down. He was
>doing the classic low level, slow flight around a group of
>friends on the ground. Got to slow, too tight, stalled the
>aircraft and went into the woods. Left wing made contact
>with a tree trunk about 6" in diameter, just to the left of
>the fuselage. This caused the aircraft to spin left helping
>dissipate a lot of energy while it was still crashing. Neil
>ended up with a cut on his forehead only. Another Kolb
>survivor. However, the Firestar is now history. Bart said
>it was too far gone for rebuild.
>
>This Firestar was still powered by the original 377 Rotax
>and had 870 hours time on airframe and engine. Bart told me
>if you take care of the engine, watch those temps, that they
>will last a long time. This is probably record time for a
>377 without a crank rebuild. Their flights were made
>primarily at 4,300 rpm. Not in a hurry to go anywhere, they
>sorta levitated over the trees and mountains, enjoying what
>God has given them. This was Homer Kolb's idea of what the
>Ultrastar and Firestar were to be used for.
>
>They have acquired a Firestar II and are in the process of
>getting it flyable. It is powered by a 503 and is "N" numbered.
>
>Take care,
>
>john h
Great deals on high-speed Internet access as low as $26.95.
https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may vary by service area.)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: dual Facet fuel pumps, how best to plumb? |
Something to think about -
This spring I had fuel problems (reduced flow) caused by fiberglass crud
trying to block my original finger strainer in the tank. (15 gallon custom
system) I cut a hole in the side of the fiberglass tank and replaced the
standard small wire finger strainer pickup with a in-tank nylon strainer
from Autozone, it has 3 or 4 times as much surface area as a finger
strainer, then glassed the tank back up. Using one Facet mounted below the
tank plus the Mikuni pulse pump alongside the engine. It will run on
either, but I run the Facet all the time, plus there is a fuel pressure
gauge mounted between the Facet and the Mikuni which tells me if either the
Facet has died, or the strainer is getting clogged.
If I were to run two Facet pumps, I would have two fuel pickups/finger
strainers in the tank, then T them together, then the two Facets in series.
If that Mikuni pulse can happily draw fuel thru the Facet, there can't be
much restriction inside them. One or the other of them would have to tear
up pretty bad to stop the flow of a two-in-series arrangement. But I guess
anything's possible.
Mount your strainer/fuel pickup a bit higher than the bottom of the tank,
and mount your sump drain at the bottom of the tank. You don't want
whatever might be at the very bottom of the tank anyway...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>Well, it is not my first choice but I believe I will be running two Facet
>low pressure electric fuel pumps.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Fiberglass tank hardware? |
I'm assembling a foam and glass tank right now, and I've been pondering the
plumbing and hardware to use. I'd thought to keep it real simple and use
aluminum tubing for the drain and sump, and glass aluminum screen on the
inside around the drain tubes, like in Tony Bingelis' book. Seemed like all
the hardware for sale was for welded tanks anyway. Also, because the tank
is down in the fuselage behind the seats and I want to place the filler cap
on the top of the gap seal ( a part of it that is permanently installed), I
need a hose to lead from the tank to the filler cap. I found a marine cap
that has a hose barb for a 1-1/2 inch hose, so I was thinking of glassing
in a short piece of 1-1/2 inch aluminum tube for a filler neck that I'd
clamp the hose to. Does all this sound workable, or does anyone have some
suggestions? Thanks, guys.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <rwpike(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: dual Facet fuel pumps, how best to plumb?
>
> Something to think about -
> This spring I had fuel problems (reduced flow) caused by fiberglass crud
> trying to block my original finger strainer in the tank. (15 gallon custom
> system) I cut a hole in the side of the fiberglass tank and replaced the
> standard small wire finger strainer pickup with a in-tank nylon strainer
> from Autozone,
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fiberglass tank hardware? |
Duncan
Be sure you get the kind of filler that has a vent tube (app. 1/2") built
into it. When you fill a tank, air will need to be purged from the tank.
With out the vent the fuel will not go in well and spit back out the filler.
Also most of these marine caps have a vent valve built in that is designed
to let air in to the tank as fuel is used. If you plan to use this vent, the
cap should be in a high pressure area.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Fiberglass tank hardware?
>
> I'm assembling a foam and glass tank right now, and I've been pondering
the
> plumbing and hardware to use. I'd thought to keep it real simple and use
> aluminum tubing for the drain and sump, and glass aluminum screen on the
> inside around the drain tubes, like in Tony Bingelis' book. Seemed like
all
> the hardware for sale was for welded tanks anyway. Also, because the tank
> is down in the fuselage behind the seats and I want to place the filler
cap
> on the top of the gap seal ( a part of it that is permanently installed),
I
> need a hose to lead from the tank to the filler cap. I found a marine cap
> that has a hose barb for a 1-1/2 inch hose, so I was thinking of glassing
> in a short piece of 1-1/2 inch aluminum tube for a filler neck that I'd
> clamp the hose to. Does all this sound workable, or does anyone have some
> suggestions? Thanks, guys.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Pike" <rwpike(at)charter.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: dual Facet fuel pumps, how best to plumb?
>
>
> >
> > Something to think about -
> > This spring I had fuel problems (reduced flow) caused by fiberglass crud
> > trying to block my original finger strainer in the tank. (15 gallon
custom
> > system) I cut a hole in the side of the fiberglass tank and replaced the
> > standard small wire finger strainer pickup with a in-tank nylon strainer
> > from Autozone,
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
The private strip I have been flying out of all these years has a housing development
next to it. I was told, when I began flying there, to never overfly the
houses and fly out of the area. Most of us do just that. I go to a nearby "state"
airport" to do pattern work. Upon my return, I throttle back and it's quiet
enough where I don't disturb the neighbors.
Ralph
Original Firestar
16 years flying it
Sure they can. And you can put an expansion chamber on your dirt bike, and straight
pipes on your hot rod. And drive around the subdivision several times each
day. Then go see how many friends you have made in the process...
What you can do and what's productive are 2 different things.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Fw: CMLF Fish Fry Flyin |
----- Original Message -----
From: Dee Gilliland
Mike Smith ; Lawrence Joe Cauthen ; Guy Russo ; Gaston Barrett ; Dee Gilliland
; Billy Johnson ; vetoyoches(at)bellsouth.net ; Tony Clark ; Tom Burnside ; Terry
Teer ; Scott Swear ; Rusty Mann ; Ronny Warren ; Richard Vaughn ; Rich Pope
; Paul Hockin ; Mike Moss ; Mike Cannon ; Mark Occhipinti ; Malcom Davis ; Louise
Clark ; Lonnie Steverson ; John Price ; John Boutwell ; Joe Thweatt ; Jim
Snider ; Jerry Chisolm ; Jack Estes ; Hilton Myers ; Harold George Paris ; Gary
Hux ; Dennis Purduski ; David Smith ; David Buck ; Coley Richardson ; Bill
Jackson ; Anthony Kelley ; Alon Wood ; Allen Ross ; Thomas M Johnson ; John Peters
; Jim Lewis ; Herb Frank Chenevert ; Charlotte Charlie England ; Buddy
Steiner ; Billy Johnson ; Joe McRee ; William Butler ; Walter Harrison ; Vince
Corso ; Trey Hall ; Tom Slough ; Tom Morgan ; Tim Sebren ; Suzie Dunlap ; Steven
Vitrella ; Steven Parker ; Steve Davis ; Steve Bounds ; Stephen Sullivan
; Roly Scott ; Robert Montgomery ; Richard Vaughn ; Richard Bodine ; Rex Kilpatrick
; Randall Yoder ; Pete Walley ; Paul Spurgeon ; Paul Petty ; Paul Franks
; Patrick Fink ; Nathan Carraway ; Morgan Dickerson ; Mike Smathers ; Mike Palmer
; Mike Holloway ; Mike Graham ; Michelle Jackson ; Michelle Helms ; Micheal
Bishop ; Michael Sanders ; Mark Roderick ; Mark Boseman ; Mack Hobgood ; LarryPearce
; Larry Bufkin ; Lane Hilbun ; Kevin Hubbard ; Kendall Jones ; Keith
Jones ; Jonathan Scott ; Johnny Colle ; Johnny John Vincent ; John Toney ; John
Howard ; Joe Root ; Jim Webb ; Jim Stillwell ; Jim Cantrell ; Jerry Fitzpatrick
; Jeffrey Moore ; Jay Dewberry ; Jason Gandy ; Ira Adams ; Ian Garnham ;
Greg Miller ; Greg Herrington ; Glenn See ; GeorgeTwente ; George Gregory ; Frank
Garletts ; Floyd J Elmore ; Evan Banks ; Eric Smith ; Eric McDonald ; Eddie
Banks ; Ed Matlage ; Ed Adcock ; Earl Bolton ; Dwight Sheppard ; Doug Bates
; David Moss ; David Johnson ; Darrell Miller ; Danny Bell ; Christy Chris Meadows
; Carl Nulta ; Carl Fox ; Bobby Isonhood ; Bob Burt ; Bill Lehr ; Barry
Hamill ; Anthony McGee ; Andy Fultz
Subject: CMLF Fish Fry Flyin
I just want to remind everyone that Central MS Light Flyers club (CMLF) will host
its 9th annual Fish Fry Flyin this coming Saturday (Nov 8th) at Harrell Field,
Pisgah, MS., beginning at 10:00a.m. We hope you can be there with us.
Harrell Field, Pisgah, MS. (MS08)
2600 ft. grass N/S runway
Monitor 122.9 mhz
GPS:N32.28.243W089.51.149
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike" <mmacpherson(at)comcast.net> |
Looking to buy a used Firestar I or II. Would also consider Firefly. Finished/unfinished
I will consider all. Preferably any plane/kit 1998 or newer.
Thank you.
Mike MacPherson
Pequea PA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: airport complaints |
I am somewhat surprised that you understood my message
to mean that I was suggesting that they disregard the
comfort of their neighborers, or make noise
intentionally over peoples homes. I think the question
was: if they can modify their pattern to avoid
bothering people? And my answerer was a resounding
YES. They can come up with their own pattern to avoid
annoying their neighborers.
======================
--- Richard Pike wrote:
>
>
> Sure they can. And you can put an expansion chamber
> on your dirt bike, and
> straight pipes on your hot rod. And drive around the
> subdivision several
> times each day. Then go see how many friends you
> have made in the process...
> What you can do and what's productive are 2
> different things.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>
>
>
> >
> >If you have a private strip you can fly whatever
> >pattern you like. Even in the AIM the pattern we
> fly
> >is a recommended pattern. Off a Golf course you
> guys
> >can fly anything you wish.
> >
> >
> >=================================
> >--- Airgriff2(at)aol.com wrote:
> Airgriff2(at)aol.com
> > >
> > > A group of us are flying off a grass strip owned
> by
> > > a golf coarse, with the
> > > owners blessing. We are helping him by paying
> for
> > > insurance etc. As a result of
> > > all the flying activity,( the airstrip has been
> > > relitively quiet for 20 yrs)
> > > we are now getting home owners surrounding the
> strip
> > > coming over and
> > > complaining about the noise and asking why do we
> fly
> > > over their houses. We explained
> > > that we are required to fly certain patterns by
> the
> > > FAA and have to fly base and
> > > final, which puts us going around their houses.
> > > My question is can the people raise enough
> stink
> > > to shut down the field
> > > somehow or as a public strip (on the sectional)
> can
> > > we fly as we want? We have
> > > already restricted our take off untill after 9
> am on
> > > Sunday mornings as a
> > > result of a complaint.
> > >
> > > Fly Safe
> > > Bob Griffin
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Click on the
> > > this
> > > generous
> > > _->
> > > Contributions
> > > any other
> > > Forums.
> > >
> > > http://www.matronics.com/chat
> > >
> > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm
> > > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >=====
> >Ron
> >Building M3X
> >Southern Arizona
> >
> >__________________________________
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Click on the
> this
> generous
> _->
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Ron
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Getting a new Warp - to taper tip or not? |
Hello group,
I just skimmed through the archives and didn't find a clear reference on this
question. Some of you may already know that I had a "little" prop strike on
the way the TNK homecoming. I sent my IVO prop blades back to the manufacturer
for an inspection and reconditioning. The recommendation is to replace some
blades.
So instead of spending the money on some new blades mixed with old parts,
I've decided to purchase a new 72" 3-blade Warp with nickel edges. Nickel edges
because of the summer showers and grass fields I find myself in at times.
The one question I'm not too sure about is should I get the standard blade or
the taper tip blade. My limited knowledge of this is that taper tips offer
more efficiency at higher cruise speeds. Not sure if that is accurate. Is 70
-
80 MPH fast enough to benefit from a taper tip blade? Do you give up
something in climb?
I know the threads on props may have gotten old to some of you. I apologize.
Just looking for some recommendations on the taper tip issue.
Thanks & be careful,
John Bickham
St. Francisville, LA
Kolb Mark III Classic - 912
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
SMTPD_IN_RCVD
Hello all. I have been lurking for a few weeks now, gathering any information I
could on the kolb planes. I had been considering buying a used Kolb Mk3 and made
the leap yesterday. The plane was previously owned by two guys that have moved
up to faster x-country GA planes. They have been nice enough to offer as
much training as they legally can and have put me in contact with the CFI that
did their checkouts.
I did some training with one of the ex-owners yesterday and am quite pleased. After
the first couple high speed taxies, I wasn't so sure the transition to a
trail dragger would be 'trivial' as it has been described here. However, after
3-4 more the ruder work became easy and we moved on to flying. I am a fairly
lowtime pilot (40 hours in a challenger, few in a quicksilver, 10 in a 172, and
30 or so in a piper archer2).
The first landing I just followed the owner through the motions. Seemed easy enough...
2nd landing I did most of the work and owner needed to correct for airspeed
a couple times. After that, I did about 8 more touch and goes without the
need for any more assistance. It is amazing how a couple hours of training can
make all the difference in the world. I hope I remember what I learned for
doing my checkout with a CFI this weekend.
The plane is currently located out at Erie / TriCounty airport north of Denver
at 5100'. I am 215lbs and the owner was about 220. With the 618 engine we still
were able to get between 400-800'/min. Not bad. I will be moving the plane closer
to me soon (Meadowlake airport near Colorado Springs). Meadowlake is at
6800', hopefully the extra 1700' will not affect performance too dramatically.
I have GA solo'd a piper archer2, but have not finixhed my x-country work. I would
like to finish my GA work in the mark3. Since a lot of the work relys on navigation
via VOR, will a CFI allow me to use a navcom radio instead of a typical
VOR inst.? I'll start calling around looking for a CFI to fly with next week.
Anyone else finish up GA ticket in a mark3?
Here are the specs of my new toy:
Mark3, 618, warpdrive, dual controls, 10gal, hotbox, intercom, mid 90s kit, finished
'99, hydrolic brakes, N-number (transering it), ~180hours TTAE.
While it is not show quality, it is in very good shape.
Anyone on this list in the Colorado area? Meadowlake?
Regards,
---
Aaron Hollingsworth
new Mark3 owner
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
SMTPD_IN_RCVD
Hello all. I have been lurking for a few weeks now, gathering any information I
could on the kolb planes. I had been considering buying a used Kolb Mk3 and made
the leap yesterday. The plane was previously owned by two guys that have moved
up to faster x-country GA planes. They have been nice enough to offer as
much training as they legally can and have put me in contact with the CFI that
did their checkouts.
I did some training with one of the ex-owners yesterday and am quite pleased. After
the first couple high speed taxies, I wasn't so sure the transition to a
trail dragger would be 'trivial' as it has been described here. However, after
3-4 more the ruder work became easy and we moved on to flying. I am a fairly
lowtime pilot (40 hours in a challenger, few in a quicksilver, 10 in a 172, and
30 or so in a piper archer2).
The first landing I just followed the owner through the motions. Seemed easy enough...
2nd landing I did most of the work and owner needed to correct for airspeed
a couple times. After that, I did about 8 more touch and goes without the
need for any more assistance. It is amazing how a couple hours of training can
make all the difference in the world. I hope I remember what I learned for
doing my checkout with a CFI this weekend.
The plane is currently located out at Erie / TriCounty airport north of Denver
at 5100'. I am 215lbs and the owner was about 220. With the 618 engine we still
were able to get between 400-800'/min. Not bad. I will be moving the plane closer
to me soon (Meadowlake airport near Colorado Springs). Meadowlake is at
6800', hopefully the extra 1700' will not affect performance too dramatically.
I have GA solo'd a piper archer2, but have not finixhed my x-country work. I would
like to finish my GA work in the mark3. Since a lot of the work relys on navigation
via VOR, will a CFI allow me to use a navcom radio instead of a typical
VOR inst.? I'll start calling around looking for a CFI to fly with next week.
Anyone else finish up GA ticket in a mark3?
Here are the specs of my new toy:
Mark3, 618, warpdrive, dual controls, 10gal, hotbox, intercom, mid 90s kit, finished
'99, hydrolic brakes, N-number (transering it), ~180hours TTAE.
While it is not show quality, it is in very good shape.
Anyone on this list in the Colorado area? Meadowlake?
Regards,
---
Aaron Hollingsworth
new Mark3 owner
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "James, Ken" <KDJames(at)berkscareer.com> |
Welcome to the family
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: Aaron Hollingsworth [mailto:aaron(at)gamespeak.com]
Subject: Kolb-List: New Kolber
_-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
Subject: | EAA Centenial Certificate |
SMTPD_IN_RCVD
Kolbers,
I just got the mail and was happy to receive my package from EAA containing my
Centenial Hombuilt Certificate and data plate.
They are first rate and a real nice idea from the folks in Oshkosh. If you are
getting close to your airworthiness inspection on your project, these are nice
enough to encourage one to get it done before 12-17 -03.
Sincerely,
Dennis Rowe
Mk-3, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Johann" <johann(at)gi.is> |
Hi Mike,
Would you consider buying one from Iceland???? :-)
It is a small market up here, and I have a Firestar II first flown in
Nov. 1997. Have been trying to sell it up here, but I am beginning to
think that I am the only crazy person in Iceland to dare to fly other
type than a Spam can.
Sorry to get your hopes up, but it is that huge and deep ocean that
keeps us in a seperate ultralight flying world. Otherwise I would fly it
too you.
Hope you find a Firestar/Firefly.
Best wishes,
Johann G.
Iceland.
http://www.gi.is/fis
Looking to buy a used Firestar I or II. Would also consider Firefly.
Finished/unfinished I will consider all. Preferably any plane/kit 1998
or newer.
Thank you.
Mike MacPherson
Pequea PA
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Getting a new Warp - to taper tip or not? |
I think the prop thread has been sadly neglected of late, John, and I'm
looking forward to an exhaustive comparison of climb, cruise, noise, and
vibration between the IVO and your new Warp. Seriously. The taper tips
sound like the way to go - I think because the area is smaller, the same hp
can spin it a little faster, so you can pitch it a little higher, all other
things equal. You can still get full power out of the engine but you won't
overspeed the engine as quickly as the airplane accelerates to cruise - so
the prop can absorb more power at speed. Intuitively, you'd lose a little
static thrust if the higher pitched blades aren't as efficient at low
airspeed, but I bet the tradeoff is well worth it. You may remember after
talking to you and John Hauck at the flyin, I repitched my IVO to reduce the
static rpm by about 300, from 5650 to 5350. I lost about 50 fpm in climb
rate (which I could easily spare), but gained 5mph cruise at 5000rpm. I'm
hoping you have some performance data for your ship that will allow a good
A-B comparison between the IVO and the Warp. Looking forward to it
----- Original Message -----
From: <BICUM(at)aol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Getting a new Warp - to taper tip or not?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
Hey, congratulations on getting a great little airplane. Hope you can find
a CFI who appreciates it and will work with you. Welcome to the list.
Duncan McBride
Mark III, 319DM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: New Kolber
>
> Hello all. I have been lurking for a few weeks now, gathering any
information I could on the kolb planes. I had been considering buying a used
Kolb Mk3 and made the leap yesterday. The plane was previously owned by two
guys that have moved up to faster x-country GA planes. They have been nice
enough to offer as much training as they legally can and have put me in
contact with the CFI that did their checkouts.
>
> I did some training with one of the ex-owners yesterday and am quite
pleased. After the first couple high speed taxies, I wasn't so sure the
transition to a trail dragger would be 'trivial' as it has been described
here. However, after 3-4 more the ruder work became easy and we moved on to
flying. I am a fairly lowtime pilot (40 hours in a challenger, few in a
quicksilver, 10 in a 172, and 30 or so in a piper archer2).
>
> The first landing I just followed the owner through the motions. Seemed
easy enough... 2nd landing I did most of the work and owner needed to
correct for airspeed a couple times. After that, I did about 8 more touch
and goes without the need for any more assistance. It is amazing how a
couple hours of training can make all the difference in the world. I hope I
remember what I learned for doing my checkout with a CFI this weekend.
>
> The plane is currently located out at Erie / TriCounty airport north of
Denver at 5100'. I am 215lbs and the owner was about 220. With the 618
engine we still were able to get between 400-800'/min. Not bad. I will be
moving the plane closer to me soon (Meadowlake airport near Colorado
Springs). Meadowlake is at 6800', hopefully the extra 1700' will not affect
performance too dramatically.
>
> I have GA solo'd a piper archer2, but have not finixhed my x-country work.
I would like to finish my GA work in the mark3. Since a lot of the work
relys on navigation via VOR, will a CFI allow me to use a navcom radio
instead of a typical VOR inst.? I'll start calling around looking for a CFI
to fly with next week. Anyone else finish up GA ticket in a mark3?
>
> Here are the specs of my new toy:
>
> Mark3, 618, warpdrive, dual controls, 10gal, hotbox, intercom, mid 90s
kit, finished '99, hydrolic brakes, N-number (transering it), ~180hours
TTAE.
>
> While it is not show quality, it is in very good shape.
>
> Anyone on this list in the Colorado area? Meadowlake?
>
> Regards,
>
> ---
> Aaron Hollingsworth
> new Mark3 owner
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
At 01:17 PM 11/7/2003, you wrote:
>
>Since a lot of the work relys on navigation via VOR, will a CFI allow me
>to use a navcom radio instead of a typical VOR inst.?
The FAA regs do not, anywhere, specify the exact model/brand/type/size/etc.
of navigation equipment used, so don't let anyone tell you
otherwise. However, there are a lot of CFIs that will tell you
that. Don't believe them, either. But, bottom line is: the CFI may elect
not to do with it you, and that's their prerogative. It's legal, it can be
done, but it might be hard to find a CFI that will do it with you... that's
been my experience.
-- Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Getting a new Warp - to taper tip or not? |
> The one question I'm not too sure about is should I get
> the standard blade or the taper tip blade. My limited
> knowledge of this is that taper tips offer more
> efficiency at higher cruise speeds. Not sure if that is
> accurate. Is 70 - 80 MPH fast enough to benefit from a
> taper tip blade? Do you give up something in climb?
> John Bickham St. Francisville, LA Kolb Mark III Classic -
> 912
John B/Gang:
I have tested all the Warp Drive Prop Blade shapes on Miss
P'fer over the years. The best blade for climb and cruise
is the fast taper blade with nickel steel leading edges.
You give up nothing and gain everything. Been flying with
that prop since 1993, working on nearly 2,000 hours.
Used the fast taper blades on the 582, 912, and 912S.
Hope to see you in Pisgah, MS, tomorrow.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
I have read many people like the Bombardier (sp?) synthetic oil. The old
owner of the Mark3/618 has been using it exclusively. At 39.00 a gallon,
I thought I would ask if there are any solutions as good or better,
maybe less expensive?
I did find a local place that sells Bombardier Synthetic blend for $20 a
gallon. Is it any good?
aaron
-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fiberglass tank hardware? |
Rick,
Are you sure he would want to use a filler with a vent?
Normally a vent is run down the bottom of the tank so in the event the
aircraft become inverted like after a crash, it will not dump fuel out the
vent tube. If he used a separate piece of tubing for the vent function and
routed in that manner then it would be OK.
jerb
>
>
>Duncan
>
>Be sure you get the kind of filler that has a vent tube (app. 1/2") built
>into it. When you fill a tank, air will need to be purged from the tank.
>With out the vent the fuel will not go in well and spit back out the filler.
>Also most of these marine caps have a vent valve built in that is designed
>to let air in to the tank as fuel is used. If you plan to use this vent, the
>cap should be in a high pressure area.
>
>Rick Neilsen
>Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net>
>To:
>Subject: Kolb-List: Fiberglass tank hardware?
>
>
>
> >
> > I'm assembling a foam and glass tank right now, and I've been pondering
>the
> > plumbing and hardware to use. I'd thought to keep it real simple and use
> > aluminum tubing for the drain and sump, and glass aluminum screen on the
> > inside around the drain tubes, like in Tony Bingelis' book. Seemed like
>all
> > the hardware for sale was for welded tanks anyway. Also, because the tank
> > is down in the fuselage behind the seats and I want to place the filler
>cap
> > on the top of the gap seal ( a part of it that is permanently installed),
>I
> > need a hose to lead from the tank to the filler cap. I found a marine cap
> > that has a hose barb for a 1-1/2 inch hose, so I was thinking of glassing
> > in a short piece of 1-1/2 inch aluminum tube for a filler neck that I'd
> > clamp the hose to. Does all this sound workable, or does anyone have some
> > suggestions? Thanks, guys.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Richard Pike" <rwpike(at)charter.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: dual Facet fuel pumps, how best to plumb?
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Something to think about -
> > > This spring I had fuel problems (reduced flow) caused by fiberglass crud
> > > trying to block my original finger strainer in the tank. (15 gallon
>custom
> > > system) I cut a hole in the side of the fiberglass tank and replaced the
> > > standard small wire finger strainer pickup with a in-tank nylon strainer
> > > from Autozone,
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fiberglass tank hardware? |
I believe you really need 2 vents on your tank.............IF it has a long
filler neck. 1st is the small 1/4" or 5/16" tube that runs down under the
tank as Jerb suggests, which is to allow for expansion and contraction of
the fuel and air in the tank, as temperature and altitude change. On
Vamoose, I routed this one from the fitting on top of the tank, up about 6"
in a loop to help prevent splashing out, then down alongside the fuel drain,
and outside the bottom fabric. Any leaks or drainage will therefore be
outside the fuselage. I don't believe the standard FireStar or Mk III tanks
with the cap directly on top of the tank need a separate vent, but if you
have a long filler neck, you'll also need, as Rick Neilson pointed out, a
larger 1/2" or more vent to allow fueling without "burping." Yes, I've been
there too, on a non-vented marine tank, and it's not fun...........not to
mention dangerous. I've seen fuel spurt back 3 or 4 feet in a huge gush.
On Vamoose, I welded a fitting onto the top of the tank adjacent to the main
fuel filler neck, then put an elbow up high on the fuel filler neck and a
clear tube to connect the 2. With this set-up, the fueling nozzle will
project into the neck past the vent outlet, so that displaced air won't
burp the in-coming fuel. When the cap is replaced on the filler, the large
vent is sealed off, too. A good picture of it is on "Building Vamoose,"
"Seats and Fuel System" at the bottom of the page. Next time I visit
Vamoose, I'll take a pic of the 3 way fitting that holds the small vent, and
add it to the webpage. On that, I had to allow for return fuel from the
injectors, and prevent it splashing into the vent. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerb" <ulflyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fiberglass tank hardware?
>
> Rick,
> Are you sure he would want to use a filler with a vent?
> Normally a vent is run down the bottom of the tank so in the event the
> aircraft become inverted like after a crash, it will not dump fuel out the
> vent tube. If he used a separate piece of tubing for the vent function
and
> routed in that manner then it would be OK.
> jerb
>
> >
> >
> >Duncan
> >
> >Be sure you get the kind of filler that has a vent tube (app. 1/2") built
> >into it. When you fill a tank, air will need to be purged from the tank.
> >With out the vent the fuel will not go in well and spit back out the
filler.
> >Also most of these marine caps have a vent valve built in that is
designed
> >to let air in to the tank as fuel is used. If you plan to use this vent,
the
> >cap should be in a high pressure area.
> >
> >Rick Neilsen
> >Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net>
> >To:
> >Subject: Kolb-List: Fiberglass tank hardware?
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I'm assembling a foam and glass tank right now, and I've been
pondering
> >the
> > > plumbing and hardware to use. I'd thought to keep it real simple and
use
> > > aluminum tubing for the drain and sump, and glass aluminum screen on
the
> > > inside around the drain tubes, like in Tony Bingelis' book. Seemed
like
> >all
> > > the hardware for sale was for welded tanks anyway. Also, because the
tank
> > > is down in the fuselage behind the seats and I want to place the
filler
> >cap
> > > on the top of the gap seal ( a part of it that is permanently
installed),
> >I
> > > need a hose to lead from the tank to the filler cap. I found a marine
cap
> > > that has a hose barb for a 1-1/2 inch hose, so I was thinking of
glassing
> > > in a short piece of 1-1/2 inch aluminum tube for a filler neck that
I'd
> > > clamp the hose to. Does all this sound workable, or does anyone have
some
> > > suggestions? Thanks, guys.
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Richard Pike" <rwpike(at)charter.net>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: dual Facet fuel pumps, how best to plumb?
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Something to think about -
> > > > This spring I had fuel problems (reduced flow) caused by fiberglass
crud
> > > > trying to block my original finger strainer in the tank. (15 gallon
> >custom
> > > > system) I cut a hole in the side of the fiberglass tank and replaced
the
> > > > standard small wire finger strainer pickup with a in-tank nylon
strainer
> > > > from Autozone,
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
Do you not have to do some simulated instrument under the hood. Does it
have a full instrument panel? You may want to ask your instructor about
this. Do you plan to take your check ride in the airplane. Might be
easier to use a rental as you need to have also the paper work in order
and be prepared to do a weight & balance.
As for the NavComm - you should be able to use a handle held so long as it
support a CDI indicator and OBS function. Do you have an external antenna
as the VOR function works better if connected to external antenna? Do you
have a Yaesu Nav/Comm, if so you could have some problems with the VOR as
it has been posted on the list they have said that the VOR function does
not work well in flight (moving). Don't ask me why they would market a
product that does meet the intended application.
jerb
>
>At 01:17 PM 11/7/2003, you wrote:
> >
> >Since a lot of the work relys on navigation via VOR, will a CFI allow me
> >to use a navcom radio instead of a typical VOR inst.?
>
>The FAA regs do not, anywhere, specify the exact model/brand/type/size/etc.
>of navigation equipment used, so don't let anyone tell you
>otherwise. However, there are a lot of CFIs that will tell you
>that. Don't believe them, either. But, bottom line is: the CFI may elect
>not to do with it you, and that's their prerogative. It's legal, it can be
>done, but it might be hard to find a CFI that will do it with you... that's
>been my experience.
>
> -- Robert
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike" <mmacpherson(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Kolb Purchase |
Sorry, I believe that is a little far for me to go and shipping cost would
be prohibitive. Thank you anyway. How much were you asking, US Dollars?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Johann" <johann(at)gi.is>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Kolb Purchase
>
>
> Hi Mike,
> Would you consider buying one from Iceland???? :-)
> It is a small market up here, and I have a Firestar II first flown in
> Nov. 1997. Have been trying to sell it up here, but I am beginning to
> think that I am the only crazy person in Iceland to dare to fly other
> type than a Spam can.
> Sorry to get your hopes up, but it is that huge and deep ocean that
> keeps us in a seperate ultralight flying world. Otherwise I would fly it
> too you.
>
> Hope you find a Firestar/Firefly.
>
> Best wishes,
> Johann G.
> Iceland.
> http://www.gi.is/fis
>
>
> Looking to buy a used Firestar I or II. Would also consider Firefly.
> Finished/unfinished I will consider all. Preferably any plane/kit 1998
> or newer.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Mike MacPherson
> Pequea PA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Al & Beth Nicoson" <nicoson(at)elknet.net> |
Subject: | Need Information |
is 60 to 70%
Hello Group,
I am looking for Kolb owners/builders in Southeastern Wisconsin or Northern Illinois
that will share some information concerning
their aircraft. I am seriously contemplating building a Kolb for experimental
certification, and do not want to repeat the
frustrations and additional expenses I experienced in building my first aircraft.
Thanks,
Al Nicoson
-
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
nnicoson(at)yahoo.com
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gap seal Mark 3 Xtra |
----- Original Message -----
From: CaptainRon
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Gap seal Mark 3 Xtra
-->
--- Richard the plans are for a removable gap seal. I can show you some Ideas of
a permanent seal if you would like. Uncle Craig MKIIIex912uls
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>
> >
> >Does anyone have any pictures of the center gap
> seal
> >__________________________________
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Click on the
> this
> generous
> _->
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
Ron
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
Bombardier Synthetic at $39 a gallon is great -
especially if you are the one selling it.
Lockwood Aviation recommends using Pennzoil 2-cycle
Premium Outboard oil for the 618 and they get $1.49 a quart for it.
PS. Drain out your oil tank of the previous oil any time you change
from one brand to another especially if going from synthetic to
petroleum based or vice versa.
Details on the reason here -
http://www.lockwood-aviation.com/consumables.htm
Lots of stuff in the archives on oils. (And Seafoam...)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>I have read many people like the Bombardier (sp?) synthetic oil. The old
>owner of the Mark3/618 has been using it exclusively. At 39.00 a gallon,
>I thought I would ask if there are any solutions as good or better,
>maybe less expensive?
>
>I did find a local place that sells Bombardier Synthetic blend for $20 a
>gallon. Is it any good?
>
>aaron
>
>-
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fiberglass tank hardware? |
Jerb
Are we talking venting the air out of the tank so that you can fill the tank
like at an air port. If you have a long (over maybe six inches) filler pipe
you need some way to get the air out or fuel will burp or spit when you
fill. This line will need to be surprisingly large to do the job. A1/4 inch
is way too small.
If we are talking a vent that allows air in when you are flying. Yes as you
describe this works well. Be sure also that you don't have this vent in a
low pressure area or you will have problems with fuel flow. My marine filler
also has a one way vent built into it that allows air into the tank but no
air or fuel out so it servers the purpose you describe also. It works for me
but I haven't tried it in a crash.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerb" <ulflyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fiberglass tank hardware?
>
> Rick,
> Are you sure he would want to use a filler with a vent?
> Normally a vent is run down the bottom of the tank so in the event the
> aircraft become inverted like after a crash, it will not dump fuel out the
> vent tube. If he used a separate piece of tubing for the vent function
and
> routed in that manner then it would be OK.
> jerb
>
> >
> >
> >Duncan
> >
> >Be sure you get the kind of filler that has a vent tube (app. 1/2") built
> >into it. When you fill a tank, air will need to be purged from the tank.
> >With out the vent the fuel will not go in well and spit back out the
filler.
> >Also most of these marine caps have a vent valve built in that is
designed
> >to let air in to the tank as fuel is used. If you plan to use this vent,
the
> >cap should be in a high pressure area.
> >
> >Rick Neilsen
> >Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net>
> >To:
> >Subject: Kolb-List: Fiberglass tank hardware?
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I'm assembling a foam and glass tank right now, and I've been
pondering
> >the
> > > plumbing and hardware to use. I'd thought to keep it real simple and
use
> > > aluminum tubing for the drain and sump, and glass aluminum screen on
the
> > > inside around the drain tubes, like in Tony Bingelis' book. Seemed
like
> >all
> > > the hardware for sale was for welded tanks anyway. Also, because the
tank
> > > is down in the fuselage behind the seats and I want to place the
filler
> >cap
> > > on the top of the gap seal ( a part of it that is permanently
installed),
> >I
> > > need a hose to lead from the tank to the filler cap. I found a marine
cap
> > > that has a hose barb for a 1-1/2 inch hose, so I was thinking of
glassing
> > > in a short piece of 1-1/2 inch aluminum tube for a filler neck that
I'd
> > > clamp the hose to. Does all this sound workable, or does anyone have
some
> > > suggestions? Thanks, guys.
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Richard Pike" <rwpike(at)charter.net>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: dual Facet fuel pumps, how best to plumb?
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > Something to think about -
> > > > This spring I had fuel problems (reduced flow) caused by fiberglass
crud
> > > > trying to block my original finger strainer in the tank. (15 gallon
> >custom
> > > > system) I cut a hole in the side of the fiberglass tank and replaced
the
> > > > standard small wire finger strainer pickup with a in-tank nylon
strainer
> > > > from Autozone,
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
I already have some hood time. I will look in my logs and see how much more
I will need. Good point. I may have to do a couple rental flights for the
hood time.
My nav-com is a JRC. I haven't actually played with the nav functions yet.
Hope it works well.
Regards,
aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerb" <ulflyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: New Kolber
>
> Do you not have to do some simulated instrument under the hood. Does it
> have a full instrument panel? You may want to ask your instructor about
> this. Do you plan to take your check ride in the airplane. Might be
> easier to use a rental as you need to have also the paper work in order
> and be prepared to do a weight & balance.
>
> As for the NavComm - you should be able to use a handle held so long as it
> support a CDI indicator and OBS function. Do you have an external antenna
> as the VOR function works better if connected to external antenna? Do you
> have a Yaesu Nav/Comm, if so you could have some problems with the VOR as
> it has been posted on the list they have said that the VOR function does
> not work well in flight (moving). Don't ask me why they would market a
> product that does meet the intended application.
> jerb
>
> >
> >At 01:17 PM 11/7/2003, you wrote:
> > >
> > >Since a lot of the work relys on navigation via VOR, will a CFI allow
me
> > >to use a navcom radio instead of a typical VOR inst.?
> >
> >The FAA regs do not, anywhere, specify the exact
model/brand/type/size/etc.
> >of navigation equipment used, so don't let anyone tell you
> >otherwise. However, there are a lot of CFIs that will tell you
> >that. Don't believe them, either. But, bottom line is: the CFI may
elect
> >not to do with it you, and that's their prerogative. It's legal, it can
be
> >done, but it might be hard to find a CFI that will do it with you...
that's
> >been my experience.
> >
> > -- Robert
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Need Information |
Well hello Al,
I Just got a FireFly done about 2 months ago. It is the 5th ultralite I have
built, and Il tell ya what, the only thing easier I have done was a
weedhopper to build.
I am Central Illinois, about 250 miles south of chicago...but here is a
website that I built to give you some ideas...and if you Stick around this
list, you will find more than enough help with these gratious fellas...just
send out a question, and you will be amazed at what you will recieve. I
consider this the best tool in the shop for building an airplane!
If we would have had this medium 20 years ago, No telling where this
industry would be!
Good luck,....and welcome.
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gap seal Mark 3 Xtra |
Go ahead Craig send them over, I would be interested
in a permanent gap sealer. Any ideas at this early
stage is good. Is your aircraft at home or do you have
it at an airport?
I could drop by and look Sunday, I have a flight up to
Sky Harbor, on the way back I can stop by with my
camera and take some pics.
==============================
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: CaptainRon
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Gap seal Mark 3 Xtra
>
> -->
>
>
> --- Richard the plans are for a removable gap seal.
> I can show you some Ideas of a permanent seal if you
> would like. Uncle Craig MKIIIex912uls
>
>
> > Richard Pike
> > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Does anyone have any pictures of the center gap
> > seal
>
=====
Ron
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fiberglass tank hardware? |
Thanks for the input guys. One thing I hope to realize from the custom tank
and enclosing the cabin is a little more storage area, especially on top of
the tank. The top of the tank will be flush with top of the side covering
leaving the window area open, and will provide a shelf for stuff. The fewer
projections I have sticking out the top, the better, so the idea of a vented
filler cap that does triple duty (fill, fill vent, and drain vent) sounds
real good. I haven't started searching the marine supply houses yet, but if
you have the details on your cap, I'd appreciate it Rick. The tank is half
done and I got the wiring harness back in 319DM last night. Nice to see the
panel light up again. Looking forward to finishing up this project. I
used to think I might like building better than flying, but that was before
I had a Kolb.
Thanks,
Duncan McBride
Mark III, 319DM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net>
> low pressure area or you will have problems with fuel flow. My marine
filler
> also has a one way vent built into it that allows air into the tank but no
> air or fuel out so it servers the purpose you describe also. It works for
me
> but I haven't tried it in a crash.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "bryan green" <lgreen1(at)sc.rr.com> |
I did find a local place that sells Bombardier Synthetic blend for $20 a
gallon. Is it any good?
Aaron
Good morning Aaron there was a big discussion on oil not too long ago, if
you will search the archives its all there. No one agrees on oil.
Bryan Green Elgin SC
Firestar I 377 BRS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gap seal Mark 3 Xtra |
Folks I want to thank everyone that sent me pics of
their gap sealer. I think now I have a good idea of
how it looks like, and I have enough to finish that. I
am sure there will be more things that will get me in
trouble with this project.
This list is the only way some of us out in the
boonies can build one of these projects from scratch,
and **by** the plans.
=====
Ron
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "boyd young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
John Bickham
St. Francisville, LA
Kolb Mark III Classic - 912
The one question I'm not too sure about is should I get the standard blade or
the taper tip blade. My limited knowledge of this is that taper tips offer
more efficiency at higher cruise speeds. Not sure if that is accurate. Is 70
when I ordered my warp drive from the manufacture I had the same question and was
told " if you will be at high altitudes or plan on opperating on floats you
should use the standard tip. at sealevel and land only operations the taper
tip works great."
boyd
mkIII clasic 912 high in the rockies standard tip warp and happy!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fiberglass tank hardware? |
Duncan
My fuel filler cap is a Attwood Series 3660 I'm not sure it is still
available and it isn't very streamlined (not flush). I have a photo of it at
http://www.geocities.com/NeilsenRM/images/CAP.JPG
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fiberglass tank hardware?
>
> Thanks for the input guys. One thing I hope to realize from the custom
tank
> and enclosing the cabin is a little more storage area, especially on top
of
> the tank. The top of the tank will be flush with top of the side covering
> leaving the window area open, and will provide a shelf for stuff. The
fewer
> projections I have sticking out the top, the better, so the idea of a
vented
> filler cap that does triple duty (fill, fill vent, and drain vent) sounds
> real good. I haven't started searching the marine supply houses yet, but
if
> you have the details on your cap, I'd appreciate it Rick.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Steve Kroll <muso2080(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | tailwheel spring |
Kolbers,
A few weeks ago I posted a question about the removal of the original fiberglass
tailwheel spring in my Mk2 to be replaced by the newer solid aluminum spring
rod. Those of you that answered (thanks) suggested it was no big deal and so
I went back at the task with renewed vigor...but with the same results. Not
only could I still not get the fiberglass out of the tailpost assembly, but I
also left fragments of broken drill bits inside. My partner next to me in the
hangar who had been watching me struggle with this for awhile suggested we might
use a concrete bit since this stuff was at least as hard.
It worked great!!
So, for any of you with vintage Kolbs who are contemplating changing out your firberglass
tailwheel springs, I suggest cutting the rod off flush with the end
of the tailpost, drilling a small (1/8 inch) centering hole, and then wailing
away with a concrete bit. An 11/16 inch bit would be perfect for the 3/4 inch
inside diameter tailpost but your centering hole would have to be real accurate.
I used a 5/8 size as I had already goofed up any possibility of centering
the bit. I also raised the tail up and suspended it from the rafters so I could
get at it with some leverage. It still takes some considerable effort, but
it's doable.
I actually broke my fiberglass tailwheel spring (if you can believe that after
hearing how tough the material is) but that's a story for another time.
Steve Kroll
Mk2 '88 vintage
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Clay Stuart ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Clay Stuart
Subject: Mark IIIXtra Progress
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/tcstuart@adelphia.net.11.08.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | [ Craig Nelson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Craig Nelson
Subject: HD Engine
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/vitalfx0@msn.com.11.08.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fiberglass tank hardware? |
Yeah, I downloaded that picture back when I was asking how you connected the
stock tanks.. Thanks. The only thing I've come up with so far is
http://www.iboats.com/mall/index.cgi?prod_id=4648&cart_id=983214703
It has a separate fitting for a vent tube - is that how yours works?
Somehow I thought the thing accomodated a hose within a hose kind of
arrangement. Don't know why I thought it was that way. Anyway this one
looks like it would work ok. One thing I have going for me, the cap is
going to be positioned almost directly over the filler neck so incoming fuel
will have a straight shot into the tank. Might be less likely to burp.
Thanks again,
Duncan McBride
M3 319DM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fiberglass tank hardware?
>
> Duncan
>
> My fuel filler cap is a Attwood Series 3660 I'm not sure it is still
> available and it isn't very streamlined (not flush). I have a photo of it
at
> http://www.geocities.com/NeilsenRM/images/CAP.JPG
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fiberglass tank hardware?
>
>
>
> >
> > Thanks for the input guys. One thing I hope to realize from the custom
> tank
> > and enclosing the cabin is a little more storage area, especially on top
> of
> > the tank. The top of the tank will be flush with top of the side
covering
> > leaving the window area open, and will provide a shelf for stuff. The
> fewer
> > projections I have sticking out the top, the better, so the idea of a
> vented
> > filler cap that does triple duty (fill, fill vent, and drain vent)
sounds
> > real good. I haven't started searching the marine supply houses yet,
but
> if
> > you have the details on your cap, I'd appreciate it Rick.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Fiberglass tank hardware? |
Duncan
This filler looks to be functionally the same.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fiberglass tank hardware?
>
> Yeah, I downloaded that picture back when I was asking how you connected
the
> stock tanks.. Thanks. The only thing I've come up with so far is
> http://www.iboats.com/mall/index.cgi?prod_id=4648&cart_id=983214703
> It has a separate fitting for a vent tube - is that how yours works?
> Somehow I thought the thing accomodated a hose within a hose kind of
> arrangement. Don't know why I thought it was that way. Anyway this one
> looks like it would work ok. One thing I have going for me, the cap is
> going to be positioned almost directly over the filler neck so incoming
fuel
> will have a straight shot into the tank. Might be less likely to burp.
>
> Thanks again,
> Duncan McBride
> M3 319DM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Christopher J Armstrong" <tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
Subject: | Getting a new Warp - to taper tip or not? |
I think your larger reduction ratio has something to do with it
I fly a Firestar II with 3 blade taper-tip, 68" Warp on a 3.47:1 "C"
box. I
outclimb & outrun & outweigh most of the other Firestars at our field.
Use
less gas, too. The only exception is one that flies at a gross of
about 200
lbs less than me.
I don't know what the reason is; could be the Vortex Generators.
I think your larger reduction ratio has something to do with it
---
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "flykolb" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Kolbers
I'm looking for a new radio for my Mark III. Recommendations? Hand held or panel
mount?
Jim
Mark III
Bluebird
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mid-State Sandblasting" <plane(at)rtmc.net> |
Subject: | piston for rotax |
I am looking for a good used std piston for a 503 rotax
Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bruce McElhoe" <mcelhoe(at)cvip.net> |
Subject: | Re: piston for rotax |
SMTPD_IN_RCVD
>
> I am looking for a good used std piston for a 503 rotax
> Randy
>
And I'm looking for a lighting coil from a 503 Rotax. Does anyone know a
good source for used Rotax parts and engines?
Bruce McElhoe FireFly #88
Reedley, California
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
The two I am looking at are panel mounted, the Micro
Air and the VAL. Both seem to be reasonably priced and
good performers.
==========
--- flykolb wrote:
>
>
> Kolbers
>
> I'm looking for a new radio for my Mark III.
> Recommendations? Hand held or panel mount?
>
> Jim
> Mark III
> Bluebird
>
>
>
> Click on the
> this
> generous
> _->
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Ron
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mid-State Sandblasting" <plane(at)rtmc.net> |
Subject: | Re: piston for rotax |
Hi Bruce
I will check with a friend of mine he has a rotax that he parted out {no
Pistons} He is out on a truck run now,he will be back middle of the week. I
will see if he has a lighting coil, I will let you know, a 447 503 532
all are the same
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce McElhoe" <mcelhoe(at)cvip.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: piston for rotax
>
>
> >
> > I am looking for a good used std piston for a 503 rotax
> > Randy
> >
> And I'm looking for a lighting coil from a 503 Rotax. Does anyone know a
> good source for used Rotax parts and engines?
>
> Bruce McElhoe FireFly #88
> Reedley, California
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
Subject: | Getting a new Warp - to taper tip or not? |
> I think your larger reduction ratio has something to do with it
>
> I fly a Firestar II with 3 blade taper-tip, 68" Warp on a 3.47:1 "C"
> box. I outclimb & outrun & outweigh most of the other Firestars at
> our field. Use less gas, too. The only exception is one that flies
> at a gross of about 200 lbs less than me.
>
> I don't know what the reason is; could be the Vortex Generators.
So the deal is that this prop only turns at .475 mach assuming
6200rpm and standard day temp/press. The recommended figure of
.88 mach would give boat loads more performance. I've got the
same problem only slightly better at .528 mach since the Hirth only
turns 5200 max with 2.54 ratio. With the same ratio on yours you'd
get .649 mach. You'd have to go to 3250rpm prop range to get up
into the .8 mach regime....
So the question is...just how much performance COULD be had if
prop diameter weren't the limiting factor (at least for the Kolb pusher
range).......
J.Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | Re: piston for rotax |
Give Tom Olenik a call. he services Rotax and has new and use parts available.
His contact info is on his web site link below:
http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com
jerb
>
>I am looking for a good used std piston for a 503 rotax
>Randy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
I've been using the MicroAir 760 for almost a year. It has been very
reliable. It mounts in a 2-1/4 round instrument hole so it doesn't take up
much panel space - it's about 8 inches deep. It comes with an intercom that
you can switch on or leave on, it is not voice activated. I have a
Sigtronics SPO-22N intercom hooked up to it and it works just fine. There
is a lot of noise in the Mark III, and the microphones in my headsets pick
it up pretty good, so when the squelch breaks or I hit the PTT switch, I
hear wind and engine noise. That's one reason I'm enclosing the cabin, to
see if that helps. People understand my transmissions ok, its just
annoying. I had the same problem with the handheld I used, a Yaesu VX120.
The handheld worked ok too, I just wanted something in the panel with the
ability to display two frequencies and toggle between them. Also with a
handheld you end up with a mess of cables and adapters. You can save a few
hundred bucks, too. I wouldn't get NAV capability, save the money and get a
decent GPS. I have a Garmin III+, now I wish I'd paid for the Pilot.
----- Original Message -----
From: "flykolb" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Radio
>
> Kolbers
>
> I'm looking for a new radio for my Mark III. Recommendations? Hand held or
panel mount?
>
> Jim
> Mark III
> Bluebird
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Re: Gap seal Mark 3 Xtra |
Capt., Ron,
It's at home please com buy. I'll be at church from 10:30 1:30 and home the rest
of the day.
Uncle Craig MKIII 912uls 480 497 0236
Arizona
----- Original Message -----
From: Captain Ron
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Gap seal Mark 3 Xtra
Go ahead Craig send them over, I would be interested
in a permanent gap sealer. Any ideas at this early
stage is good. Is your aircraft at home or do you have
it at an airport?
I could drop by and look Sunday, I have a flight up to
Sky Harbor, on the way back I can stop by with my
camera and take some pics.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: CaptainRon
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Gap seal Mark 3 Xtra
>
> -->
>
>
> --- Richard the plans are for a removable gap seal.
> I can show you some Ideas of a permanent seal if you
> would like. Uncle Craig MKIIIex912uls
>
>
> > Richard Pike
> > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Does anyone have any pictures of the center gap
> > seal
>
Ron
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
I am also interested in a panel mounted radio, are there any other (cheaper)
options than the M760? Cheapest I see it doing a quick web search is ~$900
Thanks,
Aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Radio
>
> I've been using the MicroAir 760 for almost a year. It has been very
> reliable. It mounts in a 2-1/4 round instrument hole so it doesn't take
up
> much panel space - it's about 8 inches deep. It comes with an intercom
that
> you can switch on or leave on, it is not voice activated. I have a
> Sigtronics SPO-22N intercom hooked up to it and it works just fine. There
> is a lot of noise in the Mark III, and the microphones in my headsets pick
> it up pretty good, so when the squelch breaks or I hit the PTT switch, I
> hear wind and engine noise. That's one reason I'm enclosing the cabin, to
> see if that helps. People understand my transmissions ok, its just
> annoying. I had the same problem with the handheld I used, a Yaesu VX120.
> The handheld worked ok too, I just wanted something in the panel with the
> ability to display two frequencies and toggle between them. Also with a
> handheld you end up with a mess of cables and adapters. You can save a
few
> hundred bucks, too. I wouldn't get NAV capability, save the money and get
a
> decent GPS. I have a Garmin III+, now I wish I'd paid for the Pilot.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "flykolb" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: Radio
>
>
> >
> > Kolbers
> >
> > I'm looking for a new radio for my Mark III. Recommendations? Hand held
or
> panel mount?
> >
> > Jim
> > Mark III
> > Bluebird
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
I bought mine from a guy in St. Petersburg, FL who advertised on
Barnstormers - at the time it was the least expensive advertised, even with
the Florida tax. Wimberly's Sport Aviation. I searched on microair and
found him. He's advertising the 760 for 689 plus shipping and handling.
Also recommending the 760 is the Aeroelectric connection. They have a list
on the matronics site, and I recommend that to anyone. Bob Nuckolls
participates on the list regularly. You can search the archive for
microair and find references to an installation manual he wrote for the 760
when he was selling it, and a lot of discussion. He gave me a lot of help
trying to figure out where the noise was coming from when I was
transmitting. Turns out that wasn't the radio at all, but a combination of
sensitive microphones and a really loud cockpit. Bob's recommendation of
the MicroAir helped me make up my mind. I'm real happy with it, even if I
do have to take my gloves off to manage those little knobs.
Duncan McBride
Mk 3, 319DM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Radio
>
> I am also interested in a panel mounted radio, are there any other
(cheaper)
> options than the M760? Cheapest I see it doing a quick web search is ~$900
>
> Thanks,
>
> Aaron
> -
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Radio
>
>
>
> >
> > I've been using the MicroAir 760 for almost a year. It has been very
> > reliable. It mounts in a 2-1/4 round instrument hole so it doesn't take
> up
> > much panel space - it's about 8 inches deep. It comes with an intercom
> that
> > you can switch on or leave on, it is not voice activated. I have a
> > Sigtronics SPO-22N intercom hooked up to it and it works just fine.
There
> > is a lot of noise in the Mark III, and the microphones in my headsets
pick
> > it up pretty good, so when the squelch breaks or I hit the PTT switch, I
> > hear wind and engine noise. That's one reason I'm enclosing the cabin,
to
> > see if that helps. People understand my transmissions ok, its just
> > annoying. I had the same problem with the handheld I used, a Yaesu
VX120.
> > The handheld worked ok too, I just wanted something in the panel with
the
> > ability to display two frequencies and toggle between them. Also with a
> > handheld you end up with a mess of cables and adapters. You can save a
> few
> > hundred bucks, too. I wouldn't get NAV capability, save the money and
get
> a
> > decent GPS. I have a Garmin III+, now I wish I'd paid for the Pilot.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "flykolb" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Kolb-List: Radio
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Kolbers
> > >
> > > I'm looking for a new radio for my Mark III. Recommendations? Hand
held
> or
> > panel mount?
> > >
> > > Jim
> > > Mark III
> > > Bluebird
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "rwash" <rwash(at)copper.net> |
Subject: | Sale-Firestar KXP |
Hello List,
Due to illness I'm offering my Firestar KXP for sale. It has a loaded panel
with a 503 DCDI, brakes, partial enclosed, electric start, electric trim, wingtip
& belly strobes [wingtip double flash], chute, 113 TT, always hangered,
pristine condition, yellow & maroon. Was asking $10,900. Lowering to $9,900 to
find a good home. If interested I will email you pictures. I built this plane
over a 2 1/2 yr period with extra care & using all butted joints with gussets.
Located in North Central Ohio.
PS Also has tapered warp drive prop with nickel edges and balancer.
Ron Washburn
rwash(at)copper.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Thom Riddle" <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
Subject: | Slingshot w/ dual controls? |
Slingshot flyers (past or present),
Has any of you ever adapted dual controls to the back seat of a Slingshot? Is there
room for and is there a straight forward way of doing this? I don't have
a Slingshot and have not examined one with this in mind so I don't recall if this
is a possibility. I am not concerned about instruments, just controls. Thanks
for your input.
Thom in Buffalo
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | mark rinehart <capt_riney(at)yahoo.com> |
I've cleco'd the wing stow fittings on to the wings,
and was getting ready to drill the 5/8" hole thru the
fuselage tube (for the rod that attaches to the
fittings) when I thought, man that's a big hole. Has
anyone who has done this had any problems (like cracks
starting at the hole) with having a hole that size
thru the tail boom?
Mark Rinehart
Mk III Classic Builder in Indy
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
I haven't and haven't heard of any problems. Think about it, this is a real
low stress area. The highest stress is right were the fuselage tube meets
the fuselage and it decreases as you move further back.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "mark rinehart" <capt_riney(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Wing Stow
>
> I've cleco'd the wing stow fittings on to the wings,
> and was getting ready to drill the 5/8" hole thru the
> fuselage tube (for the rod that attaches to the
> fittings) when I thought, man that's a big hole. Has
> anyone who has done this had any problems (like cracks
> starting at the hole) with having a hole that size
> thru the tail boom?
>
>
> Mark Rinehart
> Mk III Classic Builder in Indy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | <JJP45(at)comcast.net> |
SCRIBE IT W/ THE WEIGHT OF THE ENGINE ON THE FRAME
----- Original Message -----
From: "mark rinehart" <capt_riney(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Wing Stow
>
> I've cleco'd the wing stow fittings on to the wings,
> and was getting ready to drill the 5/8" hole thru the
> fuselage tube (for the rod that attaches to the
> fittings) when I thought, man that's a big hole. Has
> anyone who has done this had any problems (like cracks
> starting at the hole) with having a hole that size
> thru the tail boom?
>
>
> Mark Rinehart
> Mk III Classic Builder in Indy
>
> __________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> I'm looking for a new radio for my Mark III. Recommendations? Hand held or panel
mount?
>
> Jim
> Mark III
> Bluebird
Jim/All:
I use an ICOM A3 handheld (no VOR).
Works great. I mounted it in the aircraft, runs off batter
or aircraft electrical system, with or without the radio
battery. I think it may soak up a little more IR noise with
the radio battery installed, which is recharged while I fly
from the aircraft electrical system.
I have used the STS (no longer manufactured) and King KX99,
both hand helds, in my Firestar and MK III. With two
flights to Alaska, numerous flights around CONUS and Canada,
in and out of Class D and C airports, I have not problem
with any of the three. I am losing more and more of my
hearing. Am at the threshold for max volume on the A3. I
may have to go to another system, eventually, or find
someone who can modify and increase the volume capability of
the A3.
There is a lot of difference in price between the hand held
and panel mounted radios. One of the reasons I go for hand
held.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike" <mmacpherson(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Sale-Firestar KXP |
Yes please email me pics of your plane. Thank you.
----- Original Message -----
From: "rwash" <rwash(at)copper.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Sale-Firestar KXP
>
> Hello List,
> Due to illness I'm offering my Firestar KXP for sale. It has a loaded
panel with a 503 DCDI, brakes, partial enclosed, electric start, electric
trim, wingtip & belly strobes [wingtip double flash], chute, 113 TT, always
hangered, pristine condition, yellow & maroon. Was asking $10,900. Lowering
to $9,900 to find a good home. If interested I will email you pictures. I
built this plane over a 2 1/2 yr period with extra care & using all butted
joints with gussets. Located in North Central Ohio.
> PS Also has tapered warp drive prop with nickel edges and balancer.
>
> Ron Washburn
> rwash(at)copper.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Getting a new Warp - to taper tip or not? |
> Lots of flex in the blade ends. If you mount it on an engine that jumps
> around on start/shutdown be sure to have plenty of clearance.
> Bill George
Hi Bill/A:
You have that right.
That's why I whacked an inch off my 72" Warp, making it a
70". Got a blade strike with a 2" prop extension on the MK
III a couple days prior to departure for Alaska. Had flown
this configuration for more than 100 hours without problem.
I have a feeling the new mods, starter and slip clutch, done
to my 912S would have overcome the violent start up of this
engine. It starts nice and gentle now. Nothing like the
old engine.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
John
If you haven't already you may want to try a active noise reduction head
set. They will reduce the surrounding noise level a bunch so that it is much
easer to hear your radio at a lower volume. The reduced noise will also slow
further hearing loss. I use a ANR that you add to your existing head set and
it works well. The product is sold by Headsets Inc.
http://www.headsetsinc.com/ . I know it's a bitch getting older but the
alternative is much worse.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Radio
>
>
> > I'm looking for a new radio for my Mark III. Recommendations? Hand held
or panel mount?
> >
> > Jim
> > Mark III
> > Bluebird
>
> Jim/All:
>
> I use an ICOM A3 handheld (no VOR).
>
> Works great. I mounted it in the aircraft, runs off batter
> or aircraft electrical system, with or without the radio
> battery. I think it may soak up a little more IR noise with
> the radio battery installed, which is recharged while I fly
> from the aircraft electrical system.
>
> I have used the STS (no longer manufactured) and King KX99,
> both hand helds, in my Firestar and MK III. With two
> flights to Alaska, numerous flights around CONUS and Canada,
> in and out of Class D and C airports, I have not problem
> with any of the three. I am losing more and more of my
> hearing. Am at the threshold for max volume on the A3. I
> may have to go to another system, eventually, or find
> someone who can modify and increase the volume capability of
> the A3.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Mark,
I have never seen a problem with cracks in the fuselage tube around the
wing stow and I trailer and set up every time I fly the thing. I have had
the two rivets holding the chromoly stow tube loosen up. I've replaced
them twice and had I not seen this, I would have lost the tube. One guy
flying an Original Firestar lost his in flight one day. That's a bummer
when your done for the day and want to fold it up and bring it home.
His solution to stow the wings, without the stow tube, was a large piece
of heavy sheet aluminum in the shape of a "W" lined with foam. The center
of the "W" was over the fuselage tube.
Your Mark III has a heavier wing and this could be a problem, although I
doubt it.
Ralph
Original Firestar
16 years flying it
writes:
>
>
> I've cleco'd the wing stow fittings on to the wings,
> and was getting ready to drill the 5/8" hole thru the
> fuselage tube (for the rod that attaches to the
> fittings) when I thought, man that's a big hole. Has
> anyone who has done this had any problems (like cracks
> starting at the hole) with having a hole that size
> thru the tail boom?
>
>
> Mark Rinehart
> Mk III Classic Builder in Indy
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderski(at)rocketjet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Slingshot w/ dual controls? |
Thom,
Nothing conventional would work as per my eyes. Maybe a side mounted
tube that slid forward & back for pitch, & rotated via a short handle for
yaw might be a possibility. Haven't put a lot of thought into it though.
Richard Swiderski
SlingShot still motorless & waiting to get back to work on turbo Suzuki G10.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thom Riddle" <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Slingshot w/ dual controls?
>
> Slingshot flyers (past or present),
>
> Has any of you ever adapted dual controls to the back seat of a Slingshot?
Is there room for and is there a straight forward way of doing this? I don't
have a Slingshot and have not examined one with this in mind so I don't
recall if this is a possibility. I am not concerned about instruments, just
controls. Thanks for your input.
>
> Thom in Buffalo
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Wing Stow
> Original Firestar
> 16 years flying it
>
> writes:
> >
> >
> > I've cleco'd the wing stow fittings on to the wings,
> > and was getting ready to drill the 5/8" hole thru the
> > fuselage tube (for the rod that attaches to the
> > fittings) > >
> > Mark Rinehart
> > Mk III Classic Builder in Indy
If I might suggest, before you put the tube in place, heat the ends and bell
them out as much as you can. This will make for a lot less cussin when you
fold the wings.
One of the replies related losing his. I have lost one permanently while
flying. My last trip to eastern Oregon I camped on a dried lake bed. I had
moved enough of the dried cow pies out of a strip so that I could land, but
could do nothing of the deep hoof prints that had dried in many areas. I was
gathering some of the dried BS for a fire later in the evening after flying,
and saw a piece of metal on the ground. It was tube that held the wings. A
bit of incredible luck indeed that it had fallen out where I could stumble
over it.
Larry, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
100 %.............you bet ! ! ! Last August, when I flew with Dave Rains
of El Paso in his Cessna 175, he had the engine running, we had the headsets
on, intercoms on, we were taxi-ing, and all was well and normal. Then he
said something like, "Oh yeah, see that little box down by your right knee
?? Flip the switch on it." Instant silence. (almost) The difference was
astonishing when that ANR came on. 1st time I've ever used one. You can
bet I'll have two of my own very soon. If I'm not mistaken, his are also
the "Headsets Inc." units. Very nice toys. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Radio
>
> John
>
> If you haven't already you may want to try a active noise reduction head
> set. They will reduce the surrounding noise level a bunch so that it is
much
> easer to hear your radio at a lower volume. The reduced noise will also
slow
> further hearing loss. I use a ANR that you add to your existing head set
and
> it works well. The product is sold by Headsets Inc.
> http://www.headsetsinc.com/ . I know it's a bitch getting older but the
> alternative is much worse.> Rick Neilsen
________________________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ted Cowan <tcowan1917(at)direcway.com> |
Just would like to mention that Beverly and I are hosting another little
get-to-gether on Saturday, November 15 at our little piece of turf called
The Flying C's Planetation. It is located: N 32-25.005 W085-17.900.
Called AL51. About 15 miles South of Opelika, Alabama and 20 miles West of
Columbus, Ga/Phenix City, Alabama. It is going to be informal. There will
be eats and gas available. It is for all comers. Short notice but we have
been watching the weather for some time and figure it is now or never. No
rain date. Early arrivals on Friday and late leavers on Sunday okay. Call
ahead if you want a bed. Limited. Left turn to 27 and Right turn to 09.
Pattern altitude 500'. Open to any and all craft. 2000' runway. Suggest
ultralight types only. Maybe see ya there. Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Guy Morgan" <morganguy(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | Lesson #9 and SOLO! |
Howdy Folks,
Had Lesson 9 in the Challenger II yesterday evening and soloed! Was awesome. I
didn'texpect it at all. The Challenger is a much different plane w/ 1 person in
it, especially with the doors on and a crosswind. Gotta find me a Kolb now.
If anyone needs any avionics or airframe advice, give me a holler. Talk at ya
later....gotta go find something to wipe this grin off my face. :-)
Guy Morgan
Galveston, TX
Great deals on high-speed Internet access as low as $26.95.*
* Prices may vary by service area.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "bryan green" <lgreen1(at)sc.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lesson #9 and SOLO! |
Congratulations Guy I did my training in a Challenger clip wing and your
right about it being different.
Bryan Green (Elgin SC)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Morgan" <morganguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Lesson #9 and SOLO!
>
>
> Howdy Folks,
>
>
> Had Lesson 9 in the Challenger II yesterday evening and soloed! Was
awesome. I didn'texpect it at all. The Challenger is a much different plane
w/ 1 person in it, especially with the doors on and a crosswind. Gotta find
me a Kolb now. If anyone needs any avionics or airframe advice, give me a
holler. Talk at ya later....gotta go find something to wipe this grin off my
face. :-)
>
>
> Guy Morgan
>
>
> Galveston, TX
>
>
> Great deals on high-speed
Internet access as low as $26.95.*
> * Prices may vary by service area.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "bryan green" <lgreen1(at)sc.rr.com> |
Mobile Downtown Airport, Mobile, Alabama. Mobile Downtown
used to be Brookley Air Force Base many years ago. It is a
Class D tower controlled facility, right down town Mobile,
just as the name implies.
I'm sure ya had plenty of runway there John. In the early 80's I saw a B-52 land
at the field then it was put on a barge and went to the USS Alabama park. Do
not archive
Bryan Green Elgin SC
Firestar I 377 BRS
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
Subject: | Re: Lesson #9 and SOLO! |
Congrats! I did my ultralight solo in a Challenger 2 clipped wing as well.
Lots of power when there is only one person. Good luck finding something to
wipe the grin off. 2 years later my grin is still there.
Aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Morgan" <morganguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Lesson #9 and SOLO!
>
>
> Howdy Folks,
>
>
> Had Lesson 9 in the Challenger II yesterday evening and soloed! Was
awesome. I didn'texpect it at all. The Challenger is a much different plane
w/ 1 person in it, especially with the doors on and a crosswind. Gotta find
me a Kolb now. If anyone needs any avionics or airframe advice, give me a
holler. Talk at ya later....gotta go find something to wipe this grin off my
face. :-)
>
>
> Guy Morgan
>
>
> Galveston, TX
>
>
> Great deals on high-speed
Internet access as low as $26.95.*
> * Prices may vary by service area.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike" <mmacpherson(at)comcast.net> |
Is there a difference in airfoil of the Firestar and Firefly. Other than the wing
length are there any signifigant differences in the two planes. My preferred
style of flying is low and slow and I believe the Firestar would be the better
choice as I weigh 230 lbs nekked. I also like to fly with as little RPMs as
possible and just watch the world go by. Ruling out the fact that the Firely
is a legal Ultralight and the Firestar is not, and factoring in my flying style,
what would your opinions be. Thank you.
Mike MacPherson
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Gherkins Tim-rp3420 <rp3420(at)motorola.com> |
Mike,
The airfoils on all Kolb models are the same. The only differences in the wings
is length, amount of wing ribs and the bigger models have 6" spar tubes. My
Firestar airfoil is the same as my uncles MarkIIIX airfoil. Just a different
spar flange to except the 6" spar tube on his Mark IIIextra.
As for which model to go with is up to you. I picked the Firestar because it has
a jump seat to take an occasional friend up, or luggage on those cross countries,
or added extra fuel.
Good luck in your decision,
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike [mailto:mmacpherson(at)comcast.net]
Subject: Kolb-List: Airfoil
Is there a difference in airfoil of the Firestar and Firefly. Other than the wing
length are there any signifigant differences in the two planes. My preferred
style of flying is low and slow and I believe the Firestar would be the better
choice as I weigh 230 lbs nekked. I also like to fly with as little RPMs as
possible and just watch the world go by. Ruling out the fact that the Firely
is a legal Ultralight and the Firestar is not, and factoring in my flying style,
what would your opinions be. Thank you.
Mike MacPherson
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 11/10/03 11:59:42 AM Eastern Standard Time,
mmacpherson(at)comcast.net writes:
> Is there a difference in airfoil of the Firestar and Firefly. Other than
> the wing length are there any signifigant differences in the two planes. My
> preferred style of flying is low and slow and I believe the Firestar would be
> the better choice as I weigh 230 lbs nekked. I also like to fly with as little
> RPMs as possible and just watch the world go by. Ruling out the fact that the
> Firely is a legal Ultralight and the Firestar is not, and factoring in my
> flying style, what would your opinions be. Thank you.
>
Mike, 230 nekkid is 240 dressed; a Firefly is probably too small- get the
Firestar II. You'll love it.
Shack
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
Mike,
Interesting subject you have brought up. When I built my Firefly wings, I
did not stand back and consider...I just followed the plans verbatum as I
was laying them out...well, at least the first one. When I was done, I
realised than I hand an extra 21 inchs of wing in the materials that I just
cut off!
Thats right...here is the explaination....
the Print shows the outside length of the wing at 123 inchs....and the
leading edge tube and trailing edge tubing come in full 12 ft lengths...so
you cut them down accordingly, 122 1/2 for the leading and 122 3/8ths for
the trailing...and effectivly waste 21 inchs of tubing....the main spar is 8
feet long, and ends at the last rib at 96 inchs with the outer portion of
the wing outboard of the spar considered the bow. You have seen this area as
the long tapered bow tip that is so classic of a Kolb wing...gives it a
unique look! After I built this first wing, I was not really happy with the
strength of this bow area, and as I put handles on the tips to ease handling
during folding, I reinforced this area, and ended up adding another rib to
hold the airfoil shape out farther towards the tip..thus lessening the
"taper"(in the thickness, not chord width). As I was building the second
wing, it occoured to me that it certainly would be a more efficient use of
materials to give the Firefly a full 144 inch set of wings, as the tubing is
shipped in that length, and all that would be needed is an extension of the
spar,on the outboard end..(easy) or a 10 ft length in the first place. And 1
extra rib per wing..(which I made anyway ). Even the aileron leading edge
tubes are cut down from 144 inchs.
Now I dont know how much difference 21 inchs would make..but with the wide
chord of a Kolb wing..it figures to 18 square feet more area, and a 42 inch
increase in wingspan to 25.5 feet...not a Firestar yet....but likely a
better wing for a slightly heavy Firefly. (they generally get fatter the
longer you own them anyway).
It was too late for me make this change , but I assure you, If I ever build
another FireFly...it will likely have 144 inch wings, and I will have less
scrap in my aluminum pile!
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Raeburn <raeburn(at)snowhill.com> |
Subject: | Loss of RPM on take- off and climbout |
I have a Mk III with a Rotax 582. I recently replaced the propeller after
the other-one was damaged when one of my Lexan windows flew out and hit the
prop.
I can obtain 6100 rpm on a static runup with no problem but when I
accelerate down the runway the rpm drops off to 4200 and stays there during
a climb. I have taken both carbs. off to check them and they seem OK. The
engine runs smooth in all phases of the runup.
Does anyone have any solutions?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Loss of RPM on take- off and climbout |
John Raeburn wrote:
> I have a Mk III with a Rotax 582. I recently replaced the
> propeller after the other-one was damaged when one of my
> Lexan windows flew out and hit the prop.
> Does anyone have any solutions?
John R/All:
First check to see if you have the prop on backwards.
Did the lexan window hit the carbs?
Were the carbs alright before the lose and prop strike of
the window?
If so, you probably do not have a prop problem.
What are you EGT's?
Again, check that prop. If it is on backwards, it will
still produce a little thrust and fly. Whether it will pull
that much rpm off the engine after you start your take off
roll, I do not know. I have not had the opportunity to
experiment with a backwards prop.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: Loss of RPM on take- off and climbout |
Here's a possibility: the prop is overpitched and seriously stalled at
runup, so it gets to 6100.
As you accelerate the prop begins to un-stall and bite in and it loads
itself up to normal, which because of too much pitch is 4200.
Try taking some pitch out of the prop and see if it speeds the engine up or
slows it down. If I am right, taking pitch out will initially slow the
engine down as the prop begins to bite correctly at static runup. Then as
you take more pitch out, the rpm will go back up. I had this happen years
ago with a Warp Drive on my J-6 with the dual carb 503. It would turn 6200
static and then go down to about 5800 at 50 mph on climbout.
Be careful - you will figure it out, just don't break nothin' in the meantime.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>I have a Mk III with a Rotax 582. I recently replaced the propeller after
>the other-one was damaged when one of my Lexan windows flew out and hit the
>prop.
>I can obtain 6100 rpm on a static runup with no problem but when I
>accelerate down the runway the rpm drops off to 4200 and stays there during
>a climb. I have taken both carbs. off to check them and they seem OK. The
>engine runs smooth in all phases of the runup.
>
>Does anyone have any solutions?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
>Now I dont know how much difference 21 inchs would make..but with the wide
>chord of a Kolb wing..it figures to 18 square feet more area, and a 42 inch
>increase in wingspan to 25.5 feet...not a Firestar yet....but likely a
>better wing for a slightly heavy Firefly. (they generally get fatter the
>longer you own them anyway).
Don,
One can calculate what the effect would be of adding additional wing by using
AC 103-7 Appendix 1, 2, 3 & 4.
For my FireFly if I added 18 square feet of wing surface and assuming the FireFly
weighs 250 pounds loaded with 30 pounds of fuel and a standard 170 pound pilot
aboard, you could expect the stall speed to drop from 27.6 to 25.7 mph. And
to fly 63 mph it would require one hp more than before due to the increased
drag of the longer wing.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike" <mmacpherson(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Sale-Firestar KXP |
Ron, your plane looks good in the pictures. Unfortunately they are very
dark. Of all the pics that were sent, yours has peaked my interest the most.
I hate to ask, but could you get the plane outside and retake the photos. If
your health wont allow I will understand. What year is this Firestar? Im
assuming there is a BRS chute? Thank you very much. Mike MacPherson
----- Original Message -----
From: "rwash" <rwash(at)copper.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Sale-Firestar KXP
>
> Hello List,
> Due to illness I'm offering my Firestar KXP for sale. It has a loaded
panel with a 503 DCDI, brakes, partial enclosed, electric start, electric
trim, wingtip & belly strobes [wingtip double flash], chute, 113 TT, always
hangered, pristine condition, yellow & maroon. Was asking $10,900. Lowering
to $9,900 to find a good home. If interested I will email you pictures. I
built this plane over a 2 1/2 yr period with extra care & using all butted
joints with gussets. Located in North Central Ohio.
> PS Also has tapered warp drive prop with nickel edges and balancer.
>
> Ron Washburn
> rwash(at)copper.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)pa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Loss of RPM on take- off and climbout |
Hi John,
Intriguing problem. What prop did you previously use (type, dia, # blades)
and what prop are you now using (type, dia, # blades) . Also, what ratio
gearbox?
Is the initial acceleration of your aircraft similar to how it accelerated
before (from standing still to the point the rpm drops). In other words,
does the engine seem to make good power at the 6100 rpms? Have you tied the
aircraft down and performed a sustained full power run at 6100 rpms?
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Raeburn" <raeburn(at)snowhill.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Loss of RPM on take- off and climbout
>
> I have a Mk III with a Rotax 582. I recently replaced the propeller after
> the other-one was damaged when one of my Lexan windows flew out and hit
the
> prop.
> I can obtain 6100 rpm on a static runup with no problem but when I
> accelerate down the runway the rpm drops off to 4200 and stays there
during
> a climb. I have taken both carbs. off to check them and they seem OK. The
> engine runs smooth in all phases of the runup.
>
> Does anyone have any solutions?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> Kolbers, I spent 2.75 hrs trying to fit the tail post
> onto the boom tube this
> evening
> pp Building the Pterodactyl
Paul/All:
If you carefully measure each end of each 6" tube, you will
find that none are the same size. Some will be a bit more
than 6" in diameter, and some will be less than. You are a
real winner if you get one that is 6". What I do is try all
three tubes for a total of 6 ends and six tries. Then I
pick the smallest end out of the six options. Remember that
you also have to fit two more rings on the inboard ribs. If
that doesn't work, you might need to check and see if the
ring on your tail post is at least 6" in diameter when
checked at several different points around the ring.
The ring might stretch, but not much, and the tube may
compress, but not much. Don't want to take metal off the
alum tube cause it will weaken it. Same for the steel ring.
BTW: You didn't say if the ring had been primed and
painted. If it has, a couple one or two coats of primer
and/or paint will make a big difference in ease of fitting.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Paul, hehe yup I can relate to that!....just keep sanding..or maybe
sumpthin a little stronger!..I had that problem, and I have heard others
have also!
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "bryan green" <lgreen1(at)sc.rr.com> |
Don and Paul, if you don't think it would cause any problems with the metal
put the ring in a 375 deg. oven for 1hr, use oven mitts and I bet it will
slip right on.
Bryan Green (Elgin SC)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: frustrated
>
> Paul, hehe yup I can relate to that!....just keep sanding..or maybe
> sumpthin a little stronger!..I had that problem, and I have heard others
> have also!
>
> http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
> Don Gherardini-
> FireFly 098
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
To all the Veterans out there in Kolbland, Happy Veterans Day and Thanks!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "garvelink" <link(at)cdc.net> |
Subject: | Re: Loss of RPM on take- off and climbout |
dennis, do you know if there are any kolb ultrastar basket cases out there
to rebuild?
srglink
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)pa.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Loss of RPM on take- off and climbout
>
> Hi John,
> Intriguing problem. What prop did you previously use (type, dia, # blades)
> and what prop are you now using (type, dia, # blades) . Also, what ratio
> gearbox?
> Is the initial acceleration of your aircraft similar to how it accelerated
> before (from standing still to the point the rpm drops). In other words,
> does the engine seem to make good power at the 6100 rpms? Have you tied
the
> aircraft down and performed a sustained full power run at 6100 rpms?
> Dennis
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Raeburn" <raeburn(at)snowhill.com>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: Loss of RPM on take- off and climbout
>
>
> >
> > I have a Mk III with a Rotax 582. I recently replaced the propeller
after
> > the other-one was damaged when one of my Lexan windows flew out and hit
> the
> > prop.
> > I can obtain 6100 rpm on a static runup with no problem but when I
> > accelerate down the runway the rpm drops off to 4200 and stays there
> during
> > a climb. I have taken both carbs. off to check them and they seem OK.
The
> > engine runs smooth in all phases of the runup.
> >
> > Does anyone have any solutions?
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Mike, I think these guys who are telling you the firestar is the way to go
are probably right, considering your flying desires. I have never flown a
Firestar, but as it seems in taking with other FireStar pilots...the
Firestar will do about everything a FireFly will..but at a little slower
airspeed. you need to keep the speed up on a Firefly a little more than a
Firstar I think, and of course it has a higher gross limitation. This is
about the only thing I really notice when flying on the top side of the
weight envelope, is the need for a little more speed to keep it handling ok.
At or around 500lbs TOW (I have had it up to 565) , my firefly really does
not Fly as comfortable below 50 or 55 mph....you can tell when your heavy as
it needs more throttle to maintain altitude and speed...and sems to like 60
mph much better.
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098
________________________________________________________________________________
Kolbers,
I don't know what you guys have been paying for Facet fuel pumps but I can offer
them to my fellow Kolbers for 33.78 plus shipping and can ship via ups.
pp
Building the Pterodactyl
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Loss of RPM on take- off and climbout |
This curious, its opposit to what one would expect.
Have you considered fuel shifting in the tanks?
porting or unporting something? is your prop fixed
pitch?
However during normal cruise you should at least
regain your RPM. Its seems to me that something is
moving and reducing the flow of fuel to the carbs.
=============
> I have a Mk III with a Rotax 582. I recently
> replaced the propeller after
> the other-one was damaged when one of my Lexan
> windows flew out and hit the
> prop.
> I can obtain 6100 rpm on a static runup with no
> problem but when I
> accelerate down the runway the rpm drops off to 4200
> and stays there during
> a climb. I have taken both carbs. off to check them
> and they seem OK. The
> engine runs smooth in all phases of the runup.
>
> Does anyone have any solutions?
>
>
>
> Click on the
> this
> generous
> _->
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Ron
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "k dempsey" <kdempsey(at)nyc.rr.com> |
Pretty good -as has them for $28.60-
We appreciate you helping your "fellow kolbers"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Petty
Subject: Kolb-List: fuel pumps
Kolbers,
I don't know what you guys have been paying for Facet fuel pumps but I
can offer them to my fellow Kolbers for 33.78 plus shipping and can ship
via ups.
pp
Building the Pterodactyl
=
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Subject: | Noise-reduction headsets |
BigLar recently made a glowing report on a noise reduction headset in
C175(?), saying it was excellent in blocking/reducing the noise. This
was undoubted so, as the headset was most likely made for the GA (four
stroke, low rpm engines) rather than our mostly (stop reading here, all
you guys with 4-strokes) 2-bangers operating at much higher rpms, with
much higher frequency noise.
Way back I bought a noise reducing headphone for my wife to use in our
Cardinal, and also for me on those 16 hr legs from Japan to JFK. They
worked very well in the Cardinal, and only marginally on the jets. The
mfr told me that they were "tuned" for GA's low frequency noises, and
wouldn't do as well in jets.
Before putting a load of bucks into a NRH, test or get another opinion
on their effectiveness with your type engine.
Bob N.
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
Subject: | New Mk3 owner questions |
SMTPD_IN_RCVD
I got my used mk3 delivered to my airport and an starting to go over it inch by
inch. I have a few questions.
I noticed the ailerons and elevator squeak when moved. The movement is pretty smooth,
though not nearly as smooth as my old challenger. The squeaking I hear
is not in the cockpit, and sounds like somewhere below the engine or in the wing
length. What is recommended to lube the control tubes, joints? How smooth should
the controls be.
Control slop: There is a bit of play in the left stick (dual controls) and it looks
like the play is mostly coming wear on the pivot hole. The right side is
a bit tighter but does have a little bit of dead play side by side before it moved
the aileron (1/16th of an inch maybe.) How much play is normal. Suggestions
to fix?
Elevator trim: Do all Mk3s have elevator trim? all kolbs? The spring loaded trim
system is a bit funky. It is hard to describe, but when full trim is added and
you move the stick forward (really hard to push forward) and let it come back
it doesn't come back smoothly, it pops back in 2 or three chunks.. I did not
notice this flying, but did notice it in the hanger. Is there any kits to add
electric elevator trim? Suggestions?
Tailwheel springs: there are left and right springs mounted to the tailwheel arm.
The squeak like hell. While it flys great, it sounds mickey mouse when moving
your rudder sounds like your bouncing on a pogo-stick. Anything to smooth this
out?
Thanks in advance!
Aaron
-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
I deleted that fellow's post about wanting a basket case.....but if I
didn't already have
a plane I'd sure bid on the Ebay MkII, now at $7900 with six hours to go.
I thought I did pretty good staying (just) under $10,000 on mine. But
think of
all the joy? of building I woulda missed. -Lar's not talking any more. :)
-BB, MKIII, this summer was the first time I've flown ANYTHING in 8 years,
just like riding a bicycle I guess.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
"Thom Riddle" wrote:
<< My goal is to have a two seat tandem aircraft with dual controls and a
high wing loading ... Another possibility might be to shorten the wings of a
Kolbra. Anyone done this? Any thoughts on this as a viable possibility?
Thom in Buffalo >>
Thom, and Kolb Friends -
Be careful in this area of experimentation!
One Kolb owner I know of did this to his Mark-3 in order to have a faster
plane. The wings were shortened by 2 ft each. Flew it for a year or so,
then sold it to someone at my home airfield in Albuquerque. My friend who
bought this clip-wing Kolb was an experienced ultralight pilot & flight
instructor, but was not prepared for the drastically-altered fight
characteristics of this Mark-3. Stall speed was 50 mph. On one flight soon
after the purchase, the engine quit right after takeoff, at approx 80 ft
agl. He tried to turn it slightly to the left toward flat terrain, but
stalled it as soon as he initiated the turn and spun it in. Totalled the
plane. He was lucky to escape with only bruises. (Speaks volumes for the
crash-integrity of the Kolb steel cage design!) In a "stock" Mark-3, he
could have easily made the turn & glide without stalling.
Homer's designs provide good slow-flight handling when built to plans.
Alter something major like the wing design, and you become the test pilot of
a plane with unknown (and potentially deadly) flight characteristics.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3 in N.M.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Linda Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
Subject: | Re: New Mk3 owner questions |
>
> I got my used mk3 delivered to my airport and an starting to go over it
inch by inch. I have a few questions.
Congratulations on your new bird Aaron.
>
> I noticed the ailerons and elevator squeak when moved. The movement is
pretty smooth, though not nearly as smooth as my old challenger. The
squeaking I hear is not in the cockpit, and sounds like somewhere below the
engine or in the wing length. What is recommended to lube the control tubes,
joints? How smooth should the controls be.
>
I use WD -40 on the piano hinges and than wipe away excess with a clean rag.
They always squeek a little.
> Control slop: There is a bit of play in the left stick (dual controls) and
it looks like the play is mostly coming wear on the pivot hole. The right
side is a bit tighter but does have a little bit of dead play side by side
before it moved the aileron (1/16th of an inch maybe.) How much play is
normal. Suggestions to fix?
My ship only has 36 hrs on it, it has had a little side to side play since
day one, just check the bolts and joints, relube them and reassemble them
making sure that all cotter pins and lock nuts are installed in the control
loop, a little play is normal.
>
> Elevator trim: Do all Mk3s have elevator trim? all kolbs? The spring
loaded trim system is a bit funky. It is hard to describe, but when full
trim is added and you move the stick forward (really hard to push forward)
and let it come back it doesn't come back smoothly, it pops back in 2 or
three chunks.. I did not notice this flying, but did notice it in the
hanger. Is there any kits to add electric elevator trim? Suggestions?
Make sure nothing is hanging up and that all moving parts are lubed, the
stock trim works really well and I have had zero problems with it. Given a
little time to get used to it, I think you will find you'll like it.
>
> Tailwheel springs: there are left and right springs mounted to the
tailwheel arm. The squeak like hell. While it flys great, it sounds mickey
mouse when moving your rudder sounds like your bouncing on a pogo-stick.
Anything to smooth this out?
I mounted my springs up on the rudder horns and ran the chains down to the
tailwheel. This keeps the springs up out of the grass and makes em less
likely to snagg on anything. You won't hear em with the engine running. :-)
I hope this helps,
Denny Rowe, Mk-3 N616DR, 2SI 690L-70, Powerfin F-model, Leechburg PA.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
Subject: | RPM drop on takeoff |
Wonder if you got a vacumn developing at the carb intake? Sure sounds like it.
As the speed increases the vacumn increases and air intake is reduced, the rpm
drops. Wonder if the plugs look rich? Snuf
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: New Mk3 owner questions |
Aaron
To stop the squeaking you can use any good oil that you clean off the
exterior after application. Or maybe lock lubricant with graphite would be
good. Don't forget the oil holes for the aileron control rod that passes
thru the center of the fuselage.
I can't speak for the dual controls but the single control had a oversize
hole in a pivot that was too large for the hinge bolt but too small for a
larger bolt. One of our members suggested finding a brass tube that would
fit in the hole to reduce the slop. I remember it took some filing to get it
to fit will but it helped a bunch. Try it you will like the improvement.
Yes this sounds like the stock trim system. Its not intended to feel right
on the ground but it works well in the air. But by you description it could
be binding on something you should check it out.
There is at least one optional tail wheel and springs. Which tail wheel do
you have? I never noticed the noise but when I sit in my airplane in the
hanger and play with the controls I'm also making pretend engine noises. If
it bothers you allot you could switch to compression springs which I set up
with some slack so as to reduce stress on the rudder hinge and this should
also reduce the noise also.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: New Mk3 owner questions
>
> I got my used mk3 delivered to my airport and an starting to go over it
inch by inch. I have a few questions.
>
> I noticed the ailerons and elevator squeak when moved. The movement is
pretty smooth, though not nearly as smooth as my old challenger. The
squeaking I hear is not in the cockpit, and sounds like somewhere below the
engine or in the wing length. What is recommended to lube the control tubes,
joints? How smooth should the controls be.
>
> Control slop: There is a bit of play in the left stick (dual controls) and
it looks like the play is mostly coming wear on the pivot hole. The right
side is a bit tighter but does have a little bit of dead play side by side
before it moved the aileron (1/16th of an inch maybe.) How much play is
normal. Suggestions to fix?
>
> Elevator trim: Do all Mk3s have elevator trim? all kolbs? The spring
loaded trim system is a bit funky. It is hard to describe, but when full
trim is added and you move the stick forward (really hard to push forward)
and let it come back it doesn't come back smoothly, it pops back in 2 or
three chunks.. I did not notice this flying, but did notice it in the
hanger. Is there any kits to add electric elevator trim? Suggestions?
>
> Tailwheel springs: there are left and right springs mounted to the
tailwheel arm. The squeak like hell. While it flys great, it sounds mickey
mouse when moving your rudder sounds like your bouncing on a pogo-stick.
Anything to smooth this out?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Aaron
> -
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: New Mk3 owner questions |
>
>I got my used mk3 delivered to my airport and an starting to go over it
>inch by inch. I have a few questions.
>
>I noticed the ailerons and elevator squeak when moved. The movement is
>pretty smooth, though not nearly as smooth as my old challenger. The
>squeaking I hear is not in the cockpit, and sounds like somewhere below
>the engine or in the wing length. What is recommended to lube the control
>tubes, joints? How smooth should the controls be.
Now that you mention it, I guess my ailerons squeak a little bit too. For
real noise, the cables to the empennage will really clank and rattle,
taxiing on a bumpy grass strip sounds like the Ghost of Christmas Past.
Smooth is relative, there should be no binding.
I like LPS-3 as a lubricant,
>Control slop: There is a bit of play in the left stick (dual controls) and
>it looks like the play is mostly coming wear on the pivot hole. The right
>side is a bit tighter but does have a little bit of dead play side by side
>before it moved the aileron (1/16th of an inch maybe.) How much play is
>normal. Suggestions to fix?
1/16" play is normal, don't worry about it.
>Elevator trim: Do all Mk3s have elevator trim? all kolbs? The spring
>loaded trim system is a bit funky. It is hard to describe, but when full
>trim is added and you move the stick forward (really hard to push forward)
>and let it come back it doesn't come back smoothly, it pops back in 2 or
>three chunks.. I did not notice this flying, but did notice it in the
>hanger. Is there any kits to add electric elevator trim? Suggestions?
Yes, it is funky. Yours sounds just like mine, leave it alone, it will work
great just like it is. And with full up trim, it really is hard to push
forward, but with a big passenger, you will find it is about right.
>Tailwheel springs: there are left and right springs mounted to the
>tailwheel arm. The squeak like hell. While it flys great, it sounds mickey
>mouse when moving your rudder sounds like your bouncing on a pogo-stick.
>Anything to smooth this out?
As much noise as the cables make rattling and clanging inside the tube, how
are you able to hear the tailwheel springs? I sure can't hear mine!
>Thanks in advance!
>
>Aaron
>-
You're welcome.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
Subject: | Re: New Mk3 owner questions |
Thanks for the pointers.
The tail wheel I recall the old owner mentioned that it was not stock and
was a heavier duty tailwheel. Other than that I can only comment that there
are a couple a springs loaded on a arm attached to the wheel. These are what
makes the noise.
The tail noise is the lowest concern because looking at it I can tell it is
functionally sound. The controls squeaking is what I need to make sure is ok
because I can not for sure tell where the squeak is coming from and usually
where a hinge or joint is squeaking there is extra wear. Add the squeak to a
little control slop and a little heavy to move stick (even in the hanger)
and I just want to make sure everything is ok. I'll make sure to oil all the
hinges and joints. Thanks for pointing out the oil holes in the control rod.
I bet the old owner hasn't oiled it once in the 180 hours.
Regards,
Aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: New Mk3 owner questions
>
> Aaron
>
> To stop the squeaking you can use any good oil that you clean off the
> exterior after application. Or maybe lock lubricant with graphite would be
> good. Don't forget the oil holes for the aileron control rod that passes
> thru the center of the fuselage.
>
> I can't speak for the dual controls but the single control had a oversize
> hole in a pivot that was too large for the hinge bolt but too small for a
> larger bolt. One of our members suggested finding a brass tube that would
> fit in the hole to reduce the slop. I remember it took some filing to get
it
> to fit will but it helped a bunch. Try it you will like the improvement.
>
> Yes this sounds like the stock trim system. Its not intended to feel right
> on the ground but it works well in the air. But by you description it
could
> be binding on something you should check it out.
>
> There is at least one optional tail wheel and springs. Which tail wheel do
> you have? I never noticed the noise but when I sit in my airplane in the
> hanger and play with the controls I'm also making pretend engine noises.
If
> it bothers you allot you could switch to compression springs which I set
up
> with some slack so as to reduce stress on the rudder hinge and this should
> also reduce the noise also.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: New Mk3 owner questions
>
>
>
> >
> > I got my used mk3 delivered to my airport and an starting to go over it
> inch by inch. I have a few questions.
> >
> > I noticed the ailerons and elevator squeak when moved. The movement is
> pretty smooth, though not nearly as smooth as my old challenger. The
> squeaking I hear is not in the cockpit, and sounds like somewhere below
the
> engine or in the wing length. What is recommended to lube the control
tubes,
> joints? How smooth should the controls be.
> >
> > Control slop: There is a bit of play in the left stick (dual controls)
and
> it looks like the play is mostly coming wear on the pivot hole. The right
> side is a bit tighter but does have a little bit of dead play side by side
> before it moved the aileron (1/16th of an inch maybe.) How much play is
> normal. Suggestions to fix?
> >
> > Elevator trim: Do all Mk3s have elevator trim? all kolbs? The spring
> loaded trim system is a bit funky. It is hard to describe, but when full
> trim is added and you move the stick forward (really hard to push forward)
> and let it come back it doesn't come back smoothly, it pops back in 2 or
> three chunks.. I did not notice this flying, but did notice it in the
> hanger. Is there any kits to add electric elevator trim? Suggestions?
> >
> > Tailwheel springs: there are left and right springs mounted to the
> tailwheel arm. The squeak like hell. While it flys great, it sounds mickey
> mouse when moving your rudder sounds like your bouncing on a pogo-stick.
> Anything to smooth this out?
> >
> > Thanks in advance!
> >
> > Aaron
> > -
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Loss of RPM on take- off and climbout |
> Its seems to me that something is moving and reducing the
> flow of fuel to the carbs.
Ron/All:
Why do you suppose this would happen if the aircraft was
operating normal prior to the loss of the lexan window and
prop strike?
You think the prop strike changed the fuel system?
If one prop operated fine, until it got hit with a window,
and the replacement prop had a problem, do you think it
might be a prop problem rather than a fuel problem?
I don't know if he has a ground adjustable, fixed pitch, or
what. We'll have to see what he says if he replies to all
this help.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Clip-Wing Kolb |
> Homer's designs provide good slow-flight handling when
> built to plans. Alter something major like the wing
> design, and you become the test pilot of a plane with
> unknown (and potentially deadly) flight characteristics.
>
> Dennis Kirby Mark-3 in N.M.
Dennis/All:
Thanks for sharing the above.
I have been accused of doing more modifying to the Kolbs
than anyone else. It may be true. I do not know.
However, I have never changed a wing or a control surface,
other than shortening the cord of the MK III aileron
slightly. This mod was based on a lot of flying hours in
the factory MK III, not on blind expectations without prior
knowledge of the aircraft's performance.
I had a chance to "play" with my MK III last week when I was
getting her ready to fly to Mississippi and Mobile, Alabama.
The weather was perfect for that type flying.
Miss P'fer and I did a couple spins from 3,000 feet AGL, a
lot of stalls, and some neat landings. Normally, I do not
see the airspeed indicator after I flare. Last week I
purposely kept my eye on it as Miss P'fer stalled into her 3
point landing. Indicated airspeed on the Winter ASI was
approximately 32 mph with full (40 deg) flaps and a light
load (me and about 5 gal gas). At altitude, she stalls at
35 mph full flaps, light load. And about 38 mph clean.
Being in ground effect makes a lot of difference in stall
speeds.
I think I will pass on the VG's for now. Much easier to
wash the old gal without all the porcupine quills trying to
get me and my wash rag.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike" <mmacpherson(at)comcast.net> |
Thanks to all of those who responded to my inquiries concerning a Kolb Firestar
or Firefly. I have decided to concentrate my search on the Firestar I or II.
So if you have a Firestar for sale let me know. Especially if you have a partial
or totally unbuilt kit. However it looks like a completed Kolb is what I will
be purchasing as there are more of those around. Thanks again
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Loss of RPM on take- off and climbout |
>> Its seems to me that something is moving and reducing
>> the flow of fuel to the carbs.
>
>
> Ron/All:
>
> Why do you suppose this would happen if the aircraft was
> operating normal prior to the loss of the lexan window
> and prop strike?
> john h
Hi Ya'll:
Been thinking about John Raeburn's engine problem on his MK
III. Decided he should toss the 582 and buy a 912. Naw!
Just kiddin.
Seriously, someone else mentioned he may be overpropped, but
the prop is stalling, letting the engine turn 6100 rpm
static. Then when he gets rolling, the moving air through
the prop helps the prop through the stalled state and into a
seriously overloaded two stroke engine. When two strokes
get overloaded, they get real rich, and the power comes off.
Some, Cuyuna, will quit as soon as they get over rich.
Not much margin for error with the old ULII02.
Anyhow, I still think he has a prop problem. That is the
root of all his problems, besides a loose, and now departed,
window.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mid-State Sandblasting" <plane(at)rtmc.net> |
I think that there is two here in NC for sale both have 377 engines they
would be early firestars I do not know the price, but one comes with a
trailer I can try to find out if your interested
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike" <mmacpherson(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Thanks
>
> Thanks to all of those who responded to my inquiries concerning a Kolb
Firestar or Firefly. I have decided to concentrate my search on the Firestar
I or II. So if you have a Firestar for sale let me know. Especially if you
have a partial or totally unbuilt kit. However it looks like a completed
Kolb is what I will be purchasing as there are more of those around. Thanks
again
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: bargain Kolb |
Just considering the source.................. :-) Do not
Archive. STILL no landing gear - grumble grumble.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Bean" <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: bargain Kolb
>
> I deleted that fellow's post about wanting a basket case.....but if I
> didn't already have
> a plane I'd sure bid on the Ebay MkII, now at $7900 with six hours to go.
> I thought I did pretty good staying (just) under $10,000 on mine. But
> think of
> all the joy? of building I woulda missed. -Lar's not talking any more. :)
> -BB, MKIII, this summer was the first time I've flown ANYTHING in 8 years,
> just like riding a bicycle I guess.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | FireFly Yaw Trim |
Saturday, I flew to Painton, MO to a chili dinner. It was a quick trip down and
a very slow trip back to K02. What is normally an hour trip took over an hour
and thirty minutes. It was cold and so I was wearing a head sock to keep from
freezing my face. The head sock covers my ears so that the earphones do not
seal out the noise very well. To warm up my legs a little I would dance on
the rudder pedals and to make a little better time, I kept pressure on the right
rudder pedal to keep the FireFly from skidding. During this process, I noticed
that if I held the ball centered the noise level went down. Since noise
equates to drag, this indicated the FireFly was slipping through the air a little
faster.
Yesterday I went back to K02 to gas up the FireFly and check it out after the trip.
While I was there, I rotated the belt reduction unit to offset the propeller
to the left to compensate for right rudder to center the ball. I made one
flight around the pattern. The FireFly required less right rudder pedal pressure
on take off and climb out. On down wind cruise, the ball was just about
perfectly centered, indicated air speed was higher than normal, and overall noise
level was decreased.
I have added an update on the bottom of:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly56.html
It looks a little different, but it flies better than before.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Loss of RPM on take- off and climbout |
I'm liking John's suggestion that Jon's prop may be on backward, partly
cuz it sounds very plausible, partly cuz it makes me laugh, and along
with that last reason, partly cuz it wasn't me! :) Honestly Jon, if
you did have the prop on backward, just make up something about testing
a Kolb canard configuration, but please, you gotta fess up on this one.
It's just too much fun!
On other matters ...I did break down and ordered some 1.125x.120 4130
to replace the 1.120x.095 legs I bent. I couldn't bring myself to do
it without asking an engineer friend for some help. He made up a very
nice little excel calculation to see the affect of different wall
thicknesses, gear length, Rockwell hardness, etc. To him, this was
like a little Solitaire break from his real job. :) I still could
never see why I should need the same strength legs on my KXP as JH uses
on his Mk III. According to the calculator, and simple reasoning, the
only thing that could allow me to stick with the .095 legs would be to
get them treated up to RC48. The bottom line is that I'd rather carry
the extra 1.2lbs of the thicker wall legs than worry about snapping
high Rockwell .095 legs in the boonies someday. Like my earlier set of
4130 legs, I've reamed out the top end that fits inside the cage
sleeves. Just need to get wheels aligned, holes drilled, then send
them off for heat.
-Ben
> > Ron/All:
> >
> > Why do you suppose this would happen if the aircraft was
> > operating normal prior to the loss of the lexan window
> > and prop strike?
>
> > john h
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Loss of RPM on take- off and climbout |
Don't know what is going on with his airplane? what he
described is strange. I don't know if anything else
has shifted or was rerouted by him. Just gave him a
few ideas to pursue. Don't know what all happened with
the lexan window either. Its an interesting puzzler.
I am waiting from him tell how the airplane behaves in
straight cruise flight, as that will at least narrow
it down a bit.
===============
--- John Hauck wrote:
>
>
>
> > Its seems to me that something is moving and
> reducing the
> > flow of fuel to the carbs.
>
> Ron/All:
>
> Why do you suppose this would happen if the aircraft
> was
> operating normal prior to the loss of the lexan
> window and
> prop strike?
>
> You think the prop strike changed the fuel system?
>
> If one prop operated fine, until it got hit with a
> window,
> and the replacement prop had a problem, do you think
> it
> might be a prop problem rather than a fuel problem?
>
> I don't know if he has a ground adjustable, fixed
> pitch, or
> what. We'll have to see what he says if he replies
> to all
> this help.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
>
> Click on the
> this
> generous
> _->
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Ron
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Thom Riddle" <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
Subject: | Re: Clip-Wing Kolb |
Thanks for your input, guys. Honest feedback is exactly why we ask questions here.
Thom in Buffalo
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "jrodebush" <jrodebush(at)cinci.rr.com> |
I had that concern also but I think John Hauck stated that he bent his Rc48 legs
90 degrees on a hard landing without fracture.
Rex Rodebush
From: Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Loss of RPM on take- off and climbout
................................I still could
never see why I should need the same strength legs on my KXP as JH uses
on his Mk III. According to the calculator, and simple reasoning, the
only thing that could allow me to stick with the .095 legs would be to
get them treated up to RC48. The bottom line is that I'd rather carry
the extra 1.2lbs of the thicker wall legs than worry about snapping
high Rockwell .095 legs in the boonies someday.........................
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> I had that concern also but I think John Hauck stated
> that he bent his Rc48 legs 90 degrees on a hard landing
> without fracture.
>
> Rex Rodebush
Rex/Ben/All:
Yes, I have bent both legs 90 deg, more or less, with no
visible cracks or breaks. These legs have been thoroughly
tested over more than 2,500 hours, from Barrow, Alaska, to
Key West, Florida; from San Diego to Edmundston, NB, Canada.
> ................................I still could never see
> why I should need the same strength legs on my KXP as JH
> uses on his Mk III.
The reason I can use the same material for the MK III gear
legs is the difference in the design of each system. The
Firestar uses a flatter angle with a lot more gear leg
exposed. The Mark III uses a 24" long leg with an 8" socket
and a much steeper angle.
According to the calculator, and
> simple reasoning, the only thing that could allow me to
> stick with the .095 legs would be to get them treated up
> to RC48.
I never tested the 1 X .090 X 35.5" legs, other than 42 RC,
which is what Max Air was using for their gear legs in 1987.
After I bent them, during a couple hard landings, Brother
Jim recommended I go to 1.125 X .120 X 35.5".
> The bottom line is that I'd rather carry the
> extra 1.2lbs of the thicker wall legs than worry about
> snapping high Rockwell .095 legs in the boonies
> someday.........................
> Ben
An individual's style of flying has a lot to do with how
tough his airplane needs to be. That's one reason Miss
P'fer is so fat at approximately 630 lbs empty. She has to
be a little tougher to get me there and back.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
Subject: | more misc questions: New Kolb owner |
SMTPD_IN_RCVD
Hello. Thanks for all the infor so far. I just got back from an hour of flying.
Pretty nice day.
on my Mk3 I just bought:
I did use some wd40 on all hinges and ball joints. It made a huge difference, all
the squeaking is gone.
Couple more questions.
- Should I use some sort of grease for the ball joints?
-I have a little oily film built up on the prop after cleaning it well before this
flight. Very little, but when feeling in the exhaust hole there is a little
there too, so I assume it is coming from exhaust. How much is normal? Only the
inner 1/3 of the prop had any oil film and like I said very little.
- Flaps... the previous owners would use no flaps for landing keeping speed at
70 (dual... 65-68 solo). They would use one notch only once in a while and didn't
like the feeling of landing with them. I know airspeed is a good thing, but
this feels too fast. I also have been doing my landings with one notch at 60-65mph
approach. It just feels better to me. Is this too slow? The previous owners
were worried about landing super hard with two notches of flaps. What is
the general opinion on Mk3 landings? None, one or full flaps?
Thanks,
Aaron
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: more misc questions: New Kolb owner |
>
>Hello. Thanks for all the infor so far. I just got back from an hour of
>flying. Pretty nice day.
>
>on my Mk3 I just bought:
>
>I did use some wd40 on all hinges and ball joints. It made a huge
>difference, all the squeaking is gone.
>
>Couple more questions.
>
>- Should I use some sort of grease for the ball joints?
Hi temp anti-seize is good
>-I have a little oily film built up on the prop after cleaning it well
>before this flight. Very little, but when feeling in the exhaust hole
>there is a little there too, so I assume it is coming from exhaust. How
>much is normal? Only the inner 1/3 of the prop had any oil film and like I
>said very little.
Sounds perfectly normal.
>- Flaps... the previous owners would use no flaps for landing keeping
>speed at 70 (dual... 65-68 solo). They would use one notch only once in a
>while and didn't like the feeling of landing with them. I know airspeed is
>a good thing, but this feels too fast. I also have been doing my landings
>with one notch at 60-65mph approach. It just feels better to me. Is this
>too slow? The previous owners were worried about landing super hard with
>two notches of flaps. What is the general opinion on Mk3 landings? None,
>one or full flaps?
Assuming the airspeed indicator is accurate - 60 is a good minimum approach
speed with two people, minimum 55 solo. As you get more used to the
airplane, you can try a bit less, but not much. (Until you add vortex
generators ) Flaps tend to change the touchdown angle a bit, the nose
will be lower. Flaps also slow you down after round out much faster with
two notches (minimal float) but you need to be careful, the learning curve
is kinda' steep with them. Full flaps enable a steep power off approach,
but as soon as you start to round out in the flare, the airspeed falls away
in a hurry, if you are too high, you will surely run out of airspeed
several feet up and you will bend something. But once you get used to them,
they are an excellent tool. Wind permitting, I make a habit of always
landing with full flaps so that I can always expect the same results.
When you first start trying power off approaches with full flaps, it
appears your approach angle is going to result in the proverbial "Big
smoking hole" in the ground. So you might want to be a little faster, 65
would be good, and keep practicing until you get comfortable at different
speeds and angles. Grass runways are your friend...
Do not - repeat -do not do any approaches with full flaps and a passenger
until you are very comfortable with them solo.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>Thanks,
>
>Aaron
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
Subject: | Re: more misc questions: New Kolb owner |
Thanks for the information. For clarification regarding the flaps,
you mentioned wind permitting, you always use full flaps. Does this mean
that full flaps the mk3 is harder to handle in X wind? Explain a little more
please.
I flew today with a bit of a variable X wind. I would say shifting every 3-8
seconds from 10deg cross to 60 deg cross. My landings looked like hell. I
did about 8 landings and from what I could tell I had two problems. 1. once
I touched down I must not have touched as straight as I thought because the
plane wanted to take off to the left (right Xwind). I think I had too much
left rudder?
I tried one with less left rudder and took off to the right... guess maybe
in-between :P
second problem I had is speed... It seemed I would touch a little too fast.
I did one landing that I actually bounced back into the air a foot or so
with a few inch secondary bounce... Looked like hell. :/
Any pointers would be great. It seems my Xwind skills just did not seem to
fully translate from my challenger to the Kolb. Being side by side seating
also makes me feel pretty crooked.
Aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <rwpike(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: more misc questions: New Kolb owner
>
>
> >
> >Hello. Thanks for all the infor so far. I just got back from an hour of
> >flying. Pretty nice day.
> >
> >on my Mk3 I just bought:
> >
> >I did use some wd40 on all hinges and ball joints. It made a huge
> >difference, all the squeaking is gone.
> >
> >Couple more questions.
> >
> >- Should I use some sort of grease for the ball joints?
>
> Hi temp anti-seize is good
>
> >-I have a little oily film built up on the prop after cleaning it well
> >before this flight. Very little, but when feeling in the exhaust hole
> >there is a little there too, so I assume it is coming from exhaust. How
> >much is normal? Only the inner 1/3 of the prop had any oil film and like
I
> >said very little.
>
> Sounds perfectly normal.
>
>
> >- Flaps... the previous owners would use no flaps for landing keeping
> >speed at 70 (dual... 65-68 solo). They would use one notch only once in a
> >while and didn't like the feeling of landing with them. I know airspeed
is
> >a good thing, but this feels too fast. I also have been doing my landings
> >with one notch at 60-65mph approach. It just feels better to me. Is this
> >too slow? The previous owners were worried about landing super hard with
> >two notches of flaps. What is the general opinion on Mk3 landings? None,
> >one or full flaps?
>
> Assuming the airspeed indicator is accurate - 60 is a good minimum
approach
> speed with two people, minimum 55 solo. As you get more used to the
> airplane, you can try a bit less, but not much. (Until you add vortex
> generators ) Flaps tend to change the touchdown angle a bit, the
nose
> will be lower. Flaps also slow you down after round out much faster with
> two notches (minimal float) but you need to be careful, the learning curve
> is kinda' steep with them. Full flaps enable a steep power off approach,
> but as soon as you start to round out in the flare, the airspeed falls
away
> in a hurry, if you are too high, you will surely run out of airspeed
> several feet up and you will bend something. But once you get used to
them,
> they are an excellent tool. Wind permitting, I make a habit of always
> landing with full flaps so that I can always expect the same results.
>
> When you first start trying power off approaches with full flaps, it
> appears your approach angle is going to result in the proverbial "Big
> smoking hole" in the ground. So you might want to be a little faster, 65
> would be good, and keep practicing until you get comfortable at different
> speeds and angles. Grass runways are your friend...
>
> Do not - repeat -do not do any approaches with full flaps and a passenger
> until you are very comfortable with them solo.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Aaron
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: more misc questions: New Kolb owner |
> The previous
> owners were worried about landing super hard with two
> notches of flaps. What is the general opinion on Mk3
> landings? None, one or full flaps?
> Aaron
Aaron/All:
Go fly your airplane.
Experiment with different flying techniques, i.e., landing
with full flaps, etc.
Flaps do not bend landing gear. Pilots to that.
50 to 60 mph approach speed, power off, with one person, two
persons, 150 lbs of fuel, gear, etc., a slight flare, very
slight, very close to the ground and the MK III stops its
descents and lands.
Flaps are a great safety factor on the MK III. It allows us
to make extremely steep approaches while maintaining 60 to
65 mph airspeed. We can get into little confined areas in
the event of an engine out.
On the other hand we can get out of short fields, off mud,
wet, soggy, grass strips, tall weeds, sand, etc., by popping
full flaps at about 30 mph IAS. As soon as the MK III
breaks ground, slowlyyyyyyyyyyy take the flaps out and climb
clean. The MK III climbs faster, steeper clean than it does
with flaps.
Again: Flaps to not bend airplanes, but pilots do. Fly the
airplane. They don't fly without adequate airspeed.
That's the way I do it.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jo and Larry" <joandlp(at)starband.net> |
Subject: | Registration questions |
Just purchased a completed Firestar kit (less engine and instruments).
I am looking for any ideas about registering this plane. I am sure I
am not the first person to do this. Can this qualify for ELSA even if I did
not build it and the builder did not register it?
Thanks,
Larry
Sorry if this is going over trampled earth but the whole thing is confusing
to me....
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net> |
Subject: | Xtra rudder linkages |
Mark IIIXtra drivers and builders. I recently got my console back from the upholsterer
who covered the metal in cloth that encloses the rudder springs and linkages.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/tcstuart@adelphia.net.11.08.2003/airplane_001.jpg
Is this an area that should be pre-flighted, or something that only requires an
annual inspection? I realized that there seems to be no way to examine this
area without some disassembly. I guess you could always fly without rudder imput
if necessary as long as its failure wasn't clogging up anything else.
Clay Stuart
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> A little basic blacksmithing with a torch and hammer
> across an anvil horn would stretch that ring out a bit...
>
>
> Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Richard/Paul/All:
That's one way to do it.
But if I pay good money for a part, i.e., tail post and tail
boom, I expect the to fit without any extreme hardship on my
part. A little polishing here and there, a little tapping
to get it to fit. If that won't do it, Kolb needs to send
me the parts that will.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: more misc questions: New Kolb owner |
1ST WD40 is a super product but it isn't a lubricant. It will drive water
and oil out of the hinges and when dry will leave very little to lubricate
them.
Richard and John are right flaps are super on MKIIIs but they can bite you
because they work so well. My advise is carry some power all the way down
final approach then chop the power inches above ground or after you land.
After you get used to the steep approach then do the approaches with less
and less power. You need to know how your plane flies with out power but
don't rush it.
Also one notch of flaps is fine for now take your time going to full flaps
and use more power when you do.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: more misc questions: New Kolb owner
>
> Hello. Thanks for all the infor so far. I just got back from an hour of
flying. Pretty nice day.
>
> on my Mk3 I just bought:
>
> I did use some wd40 on all hinges and ball joints. It made a huge
difference, all the squeaking is gone.
>
> Couple more questions.
>
> - Should I use some sort of grease for the ball joints?
> -I have a little oily film built up on the prop after cleaning it well
before this flight. Very little, but when feeling in the exhaust hole there
is a little there too, so I assume it is coming from exhaust. How much is
normal? Only the inner 1/3 of the prop had any oil film and like I said very
little.
>
>
> - Flaps... the previous owners would use no flaps for landing keeping
speed at 70 (dual... 65-68 solo). They would use one notch only once in a
while and didn't like the feeling of landing with them. I know airspeed is a
good thing, but this feels too fast. I also have been doing my landings with
one notch at 60-65mph approach. It just feels better to me. Is this too
slow? The previous owners were worried about landing super hard with two
notches of flaps. What is the general opinion on Mk3 landings? None, one or
full flaps?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Aaron
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
Subject: | Re: more misc questions: New Kolb owner |
Aaron wrote:
> Hello. Thanks for all the infor so far. I just got back from an hour of
flying. Pretty nice day.
>
> on my Mk3 I just bought:
>
> I did use some wd40 on all hinges and ball joints. It made a huge
difference, all the squeaking is gone.
>
Glad to hear it worked.
> Couple more questions.
>
> - Should I use some sort of grease for the ball joints?
I use 3 in 1 oil on mine, also make sure the builder of your plane installed
large diameter washers on the ball joints to keep them from seporating if
the ball joint fails.
> -I have a little oily film built up on the prop after cleaning it well
before this flight. Very little, but when feeling in the exhaust hole there
is a little there too, so I assume it is coming from exhaust. How much is
normal? Only the inner 1/3 of the prop had any oil film and like I said very
little.
You should see my prop after flight, my 2SI engine is piston port with no
reeds or rotary valves, so at idle and lower RPM she blows a good bit of
premix out the carbs through the airfilters, the fuel evaporates and the
Pennzoil remains to make sure nothing from the engine back will ever rust.
:-) If you have just a little, it shows that the rotary valve in your 618 is
doing its job. Always keep an eye on it to make sure your gearbox seals
don't go bad and leak, you should be able to tell the differance between
gear and engine oil. On that subject, it might be a good idea to change your
gearbox lube to ensure it is fresh.
>
>
> - Flaps... the previous owners would use no flaps for landing keeping
speed at 70 (dual... 65-68 solo). They would use one notch only once in a
while and didn't like the feeling of landing with them. I know airspeed is a
good thing, but this feels too fast. I also have been doing my landings with
one notch at 60-65mph approach. It just feels better to me. Is this too
slow? The previous owners were worried about landing super hard with two
notches of flaps. What is the general opinion on Mk3 landings? None, one or
full flaps?
>
70 mph on final is definitly on the fast side, I like 60 to 65 max with one
notch of flaps myself, I still have not landed with full flaps yet, when you
do use full flaps make sure to fly that bugger right down to the ground
before rounding out as it is gonna stop and drop, also with heavier loads
aboard, it helps to carry a little power to extend the float on your flare.
Enjoy and fly safe,
Denny Rowe, Mk-3, PA, 36hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
Subject: | Re: more misc questions: New Kolb owner |
Aaron wrote:
>
> Thanks for the information. For clarification regarding the flaps,
>
> you mentioned wind permitting, you always use full flaps. Does this mean
> that full flaps the mk3 is harder to handle in X wind? Explain a little
more please.
Aaron,
In gusty conditions it is generally good practice to fly final a little
faster to allow for sudden drops in head wind, and also to improve control
authority to counter unexpected gusts, using full flaps usually means flying
a little slower and thus deteriates control authority.
>
> I flew today with a bit of a variable X wind. I would say shifting every
3-8
> seconds from 10deg cross to 60 deg cross. My landings looked like hell. I
> did about 8 landings and from what I could tell I had two problems. 1.
once
> I touched down I must not have touched as straight as I thought because
the
> plane wanted to take off to the left (right Xwind). I think I had too much
> left rudder?
>
> I tried one with less left rudder and took off to the right... guess maybe
> in-between :P
>
> second problem I had is speed... It seemed I would touch a little too
fast.
> I did one landing that I actually bounced back into the air a foot or so
> with a few inch secondary bounce... Looked like hell. :/
>
> Any pointers would be great. It seems my Xwind skills just did not seem to
> fully translate from my challenger to the Kolb. Being side by side
seating> also makes me feel pretty crooked.
>
> Aaron
>
Keep practicing pal, you will have it wired in no time.
Denny Rowe
-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
Subject: | Re: Registration questions |
At 12:49 PM 11/12/2003, you wrote:
>
>
>Just purchased a completed Firestar kit (less engine and instruments).
>I am looking for any ideas about registering this plane. I am sure I
>am not the first person to do this. Can this qualify for ELSA even if I did
>not build it and the builder did not register it?
This might be of interest.... It's a quote from Sue Gardner, the FAA
National Program Manager for Sport and Recreational Aviation; it was
written as a response to the question of whether it mattered if a
single-seat or double-seat fat ultralight needed to be registered with
EAA/USUA/ASC prior to LSA/SP becoming law.
"The FAA is telling the industry that you have two years (24 months) to
register for an "N" number and 3 years (36 months) to find a DAR and have
it inspected. Upon inspection the aircraft will be issued an experimental
light-sport airworthiness certificate and the appropriate operating
limitations. We do not care where the aircraft has been, how it has been
built, or how it was operated (legally or not). All we are looking for is
that it is in a safe condition for flight. (we will provide more details as
to what that means in the guidance we are developing, but it is pretty
common sense stuff."
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | dual Facets in series |
From: | Jim Gerken <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
11/12/2003 02:55:47 PM
Thanks for all the input on the dual electric fuel pumps connection
question. The majority of guys responding favored the serial connection,
as I did at first glance also. I did plumb it up serial, specifically as
follows:
1. dip tube down from top of each (stock 5 gallon) tank left 3/4" up from
bottom to leave water in tanks,
2. filter on each line (want to change this to more coarse filters,
possibly a screens),
3. after filters/screens, the lines "T" together,
4. clear blue fuel line (in order to see any possible air bubbles on
suction side) to first pump, pumps mounted at top of tank level
5. pipe nipple connects output of first pump to inlet of second pump
6. outlet of second pump is pipe to nipple, connected to 1/4" black
automotive fuel line
7. another filter (normal large capacity) in-line, up to "T" under engine
8. one black auto line to each carb
The tanks are vacuumed monthly for water and sediment like grass blades,
dirt, etc. I could install a drain to do this easier, but have resisted
putting holes in the bottom of the tanks and also am trying to avoid having
any fuel valves on board. All fuel is filtered as its pumped into the
plane, from a sealed barrel, through a water-stopping large capacity filter
on the hand pump.
I will try the above arrangement soon and then will know if the Facets can
prime themselves when mounted at the top of the tanks. Their literature
stated to "mount the pump within 12 inches of the bottom of the fuel tank".
So I mounted it about 2 inches above that requirement actually. I will
test their ability to prime with no fuel in the lines or pumps and only a
gallon in each tank. Also, if tests show the pressure is too high for the
Bings, a regulator will be added, and possibly a gauge.
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
Subject: | Re: more misc questions: New Kolb owner |
I just bought some 3 in one oil last night. I'll oil up the joints in the
morning. I placed an order for the gearbox oil a couple days ago.. hopefully
will get it in a couple days.
I don't quite follow:
> also make sure the builder of your plane installed
> large diameter washers on the ball joints to keep them from seporating if
> the ball joint fails.
I will have to look at the plane when I am in the hanger next, but from
memory I cant think of seeing any washers by the ball joints. There are some
non ball joints that freefloat on its connection. The flap arm and the main
struts both have play where you can slide the joint within the bracket. Hard
to put into words, but I was wondering if there should be spacers there. I
guess maybe I put too much faith in the FAA inspector to have caught
anything like that wrong during the annual (a couple months ago). I am
starting to see the huge maint. disadvantage I have not having built the
plane.
Thanks everyone for the advice and help!
aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: more misc questions: New Kolb owner
>
>
> Aaron wrote:
> > Hello. Thanks for all the infor so far. I just got back from an hour of
> flying. Pretty nice day.
> >
> > on my Mk3 I just bought:
> >
> > I did use some wd40 on all hinges and ball joints. It made a huge
> difference, all the squeaking is gone.
> >
>
> Glad to hear it worked.
>
>
> > Couple more questions.
> >
> > - Should I use some sort of grease for the ball joints?
>
>
> I use 3 in 1 oil on mine, also make sure the builder of your plane
installed
> large diameter washers on the ball joints to keep them from seporating if
> the ball joint fails.
>
> > -I have a little oily film built up on the prop after cleaning it well
> before this flight. Very little, but when feeling in the exhaust hole
there
> is a little there too, so I assume it is coming from exhaust. How much is
> normal? Only the inner 1/3 of the prop had any oil film and like I said
very
> little.
>
> You should see my prop after flight, my 2SI engine is piston port with no
> reeds or rotary valves, so at idle and lower RPM she blows a good bit of
> premix out the carbs through the airfilters, the fuel evaporates and the
> Pennzoil remains to make sure nothing from the engine back will ever rust.
> :-) If you have just a little, it shows that the rotary valve in your 618
is
> doing its job. Always keep an eye on it to make sure your gearbox seals
> don't go bad and leak, you should be able to tell the differance between
> gear and engine oil. On that subject, it might be a good idea to change
your
> gearbox lube to ensure it is fresh.
> >
> >
> > - Flaps... the previous owners would use no flaps for landing keeping
> speed at 70 (dual... 65-68 solo). They would use one notch only once in a
> while and didn't like the feeling of landing with them. I know airspeed is
a
> good thing, but this feels too fast. I also have been doing my landings
with
> one notch at 60-65mph approach. It just feels better to me. Is this too
> slow? The previous owners were worried about landing super hard with two
> notches of flaps. What is the general opinion on Mk3 landings? None, one
or
> full flaps?
> >
> 70 mph on final is definitly on the fast side, I like 60 to 65 max with
one
> notch of flaps myself, I still have not landed with full flaps yet, when
you
> do use full flaps make sure to fly that bugger right down to the ground
> before rounding out as it is gonna stop and drop, also with heavier loads
> aboard, it helps to carry a little power to extend the float on your
flare.
>
> Enjoy and fly safe,
> Denny Rowe, Mk-3, PA, 36hrs
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | throttle cables question |
From: | Jim Gerken <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
11/12/2003 03:06:40 PM
Here's another one to scratch your noodle over. Why do we use a splitter
on the throttle cable? Assuming an engine has two carbs and no other
cable-able accessory like an oil injection pump, would it make more sense
to route two cables all the way to the lever? I am putting together the
throttle cables for the BMW now, and I am tempted to route two cables all
the way to the throttle lever in the cabin. This eliminates the splitter.
This seems simpler and seems to have fewer failure points. What do you
think?
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Dribbling Bing Carburetors |
>
>You should see my prop after flight, my 2SI engine is piston port with no
>reeds or rotary valves, so at idle and lower RPM she blows a good bit of
>premix out the carbs through the airfilters, the fuel evaporates and the
>Pennzoil remains to make sure nothing from the engine back will ever rust.
Denny,
Your problem has a solution on the bottom of:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly90.html
The fellow who sold me the Victor 1+ asked me if I had a solution to the problem.
Currently he is doing a good business modifying Victor 1 and Victor 2 carburetors
in Canada. Most of these engines are mounted in the tractor configuration,
and so they are getting lots of oil on the windshield.
I have flown the FireFly 10 hours with a dribble bib installed. There has been
no dribble on the wing or the tail feathers since it was installed. It is easy
to make, simple to install, and it makes washing the FireFly much easier.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: more misc questions: New Kolb owner |
>
>I don't quite follow:
>
>> also make sure the builder of your plane installed
>> large diameter washers on the ball joints to keep them from seporating if
>> the ball joint fails.
>
Aaron,
An example can be seen at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly90.html
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "flykolb" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: throttle cables question |
Jim,
I don't have a splitter. Two cables all the way. Works fine for me.
Jim
Mark III
Bluebird
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Gerken" <gerken(at)us.ibm.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: throttle cables question
>
>
> Here's another one to scratch your noodle over. Why do we use a splitter
> on the throttle cable? Assuming an engine has two carbs and no other
> cable-able accessory like an oil injection pump, would it make more sense
> to route two cables all the way to the lever? I am putting together the
> throttle cables for the BMW now, and I am tempted to route two cables all
> the way to the throttle lever in the cabin. This eliminates the splitter.
> This seems simpler and seems to have fewer failure points. What do you
> think?
>
> Jim Gerken
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "ron wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
just wondering have you checked to make sure that one of the parts may be
out of round?
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: no fit
>
>
> > A little basic blacksmithing with a torch and hammer
> > across an anvil horn would stretch that ring out a bit...
> >
> >
> > Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
> Richard/Paul/All:
>
> That's one way to do it.
>
> But if I pay good money for a part, i.e., tail post and tail
> boom, I expect the to fit without any extreme hardship on my
> part. A little polishing here and there, a little tapping
> to get it to fit. If that won't do it, Kolb needs to send
> me the parts that will.
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Linda Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
Subject: | anybody on line? |
Thought I would give this a spin while I was checking the Kolb list
Denny Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: more misc questions: New Kolb owner |
>> also make sure the builder of your plane installed
>> large diameter washers on the ball joints to keep them
>> from seporating if the ball joint fails.
Hi Young'ns:
I do not have large diameter washers on my ball joints.
What kind of failure and when I can I expect it?
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Victor Catalanotto" <Victor(at)bellanca.us> |
Subject: | Rotax 503 Oil & Fuel |
Hello
I am kind of new to the UL field. I have allot of experience with general
aviation and have just purchased a Kolb Firestar. I have a Rotax 503 to
install on it and would like to install a oil pump and fuel pump. Does
anyone have a picture of this set up that they could send to me off chat?
A picture is worth a thousand words.
Thanks in advance.
Victor Catalanotto
1972 BSV 17-30A
Web Site www.bellanca.us <http://www.bellanca.us/>
N8281R
KGPM
Mansfield, TX
Victor(at)bellanca.us
Mobile 817-925-2532
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Raeburn <raeburn(at)snowhill.com> |
Subject: | Loss of RPM on Takeoff |
Thanks for all the info. that is coming in from everyone concerning the loss
of RPM on take off with my aircraft. I can achieve 6100 rpm on a static
runup but only 4200 rpm on the takeoff run and climbout.
Let me give you more information.
1. The previous propeller and the presently used propellor are(were) both
Warp Drive, 3 blade, fixed pitch props. Ground adjustable.
2. I checked the prop. and it is not installed backwards.
3. The engine used is a Rotax 582 on a Kolb MK III.
4. I have tied the tail down and performed prolonged static runups,
achieving 6100 rpm each time.
5. The reason for the prop. change was that a rear Lexan window came off
during takeoff one day, hitting the prop. The vibration was quite severe as
you can imagine, causing the carbs. to vibrate loose. This was good in a way
because it made the engine stop causing any further damage. The runway was
long enough that the aircraft just glided back to the runway.
6. The carbs. have been disassembled and I can see no damage to the carbs.
7. I have 2 new rubber boots on order (That connect the carbs. to the engine
intake).
8. The engine loses the rpm as I accelerate down the runway.
I am still thinking the problem is in the carbs. due to the vibration that
occurred on the takeoff.
9. The fuel tanks are nearly full each time on take off so there is plenty
of fuel.
10. I'm not sure how it behaves in cruise flight due to the fact that after
I get up to 200 ft, I usually put the "old girl" back on the runway!
I'll keep you all up to-date on the progress of this problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: more misc questions: New Kolb owner |
You don't expect it - you just ensure that it is not a disaster if it happens.
We are talking about the male or female rod end bearings on the end of the
various control rods. It is a pressed ball within a housing. If you have a
slippage where the ball comes out of the end of the bearing housing, you
don't want to lose all control. Therefore you add a large washer at the
side where it might slip past the nut or bolt head if it comes apart. That
way, at least it can't get far, just rattle around.
This is a very uncommon failure, but not entirely unknown.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> >> also make sure the builder of your plane installed
> >> large diameter washers on the ball joints to keep them
> >> from seporating if the ball joint fails.
>
>Hi Young'ns:
>
>I do not have large diameter washers on my ball joints.
>
>What kind of failure and when I can I expect it?
>
>john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Loss of RPM on Takeoff |
> 4. I have tied the tail down and performed prolonged static runups,
> achieving 6100 rpm each time.
John R/All:
What were your operating temps during your static runups?
6100 rpm is pretty low for your set up. If it was my 582
and Warp Drive Prop, I would be looking for at least 6400.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: more misc questions: New Kolb owner |
> You don't expect it - you just ensure that it is not a
> disaster if it happens.
> Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Richard/All:
Have you or anyone else ever seen or know of a rod end
bearing failure?
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
Subject: | Re: Loss of RPM on Takeoff |
> 6. The carbs. have been disassembled and I can see no damage to the carbs.
> 8. The engine loses the rpm as I accelerate down the runway.
> I am still thinking the problem is in the carbs. due to the vibration that
> occurred on the takeoff.
Speculation; The float brackets were bent as a result of the severe shaking.
The floats and brackets increase angle of attack on climbout and forward
thrust of the aircraft forces them rearward. They may be binding on the rear
of the float chamber. Snuf
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
Subject: | Re: Xtra rudder linkages |
Clay
I would make it easy to remove, build a access door, or a inspection port to
give you access to this area. This isn't a known area to watch for wear but
you never know and with it covered up and not easily accessible it will not
get checked very often. It does look nice.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Xtra rudder linkages
>
> Mark IIIXtra drivers and builders. I recently got my console back from
the upholsterer who covered the metal in cloth that encloses the rudder
springs and linkages.
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/tcstuart@adelphia.net.11.08.2003/airplane_001.jpg
>
> Is this an area that should be pre-flighted, or something that only
requires an annual inspection? I realized that there seems to be no way to
examine this area without some disassembly. I guess you could always fly
without rudder imput if necessary as long as its failure wasn't clogging up
anything else.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Loss of RPM on Takeoff |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
This is a long shot, but there was a local guy who had a similar problem.
He took the float bowl off and asked me if the float rods were supposed
to be tapered. I said no. Evidently, his rods were eaten away in the
middle as if electrolysis had taken place. After replacing the floats and
bowl, everything was normal. The plane had an electric start and I wonder
if a bad ground would cause this kind of problem.
Ralph
Original Firestar
16 years flying it
>
>
> > 6. The carbs. have been disassembled and I can see no damage to
> the carbs.
> > 8. The engine loses the rpm as I accelerate down the runway.
> > I am still thinking the problem is in the carbs. due to the
> vibration that
> > occurred on the takeoff.
>
> Speculation; The float brackets were bent as a result of the severe
> shaking.
> The floats and brackets increase angle of attack on climbout and
> forward
> thrust of the aircraft forces them rearward. They may be binding on
> the rear
> of the float chamber. Snuf
>
>
>
> _->
=
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: more misc questions: New Kolb owner |
Yes. One of our local EAA members had his father killed in a homebuilt when
the rod end bearing which was attached to the bottom of the control stick
and ran to the elevator push/pull bellcrank came off. This happened many
years ago. I distinctly remember him talking about it at a club meeting.
Tony Bingelis references rod end bearing failure on page 136 of his book
Sportplane Construction Techniques and shows how the safety washer is to be
installed.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> > You don't expect it - you just ensure that it is not a
> > disaster if it happens.
> > Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Richard/All:
>
>Have you or anyone else ever seen or know of a rod end
>bearing failure?
>
>john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)pa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Loss of RPM on Takeoff |
John,
The question that rises in my mind is what type of used Warp prop did you
install? Was it identical to the one you removed? Warps have all sorts of
variations of tapers to the tips, for instance, and possibly you have a prop
with a taper that isn't optimized for your engine. Kolb had purchased quite
a few Warp props over the years and I recall Dale always thinking aloud
about what taper to cut. So we would discuss this and that and finally he
would have enough information to figure the taper angle, etc. At that time
he cut all the tapers himself. If he wasn't around, and we needed a prop
quickly - we were out of luck because no one else at Warp would cut the
tapers. I can't help but think that the rpm drop is prop related, as it
sounds like a properly functioning taper tip - but just more effect than
helpful! If, for instance, the taper was cut much longer than it should be,
then a longer portion of the blade would be stalled at a static run-up.
Then as you start moving, the speed increase would result in the airflow
starting to re-attach at the stalled portion of the blades and
...progressively increase the loading on the engine. The larger the stalled
area, the larger the magnitude of rpm drop. I would suggest adjusting the
prop till you get say 6400-6500 static and try that and see what happens as
you accelerate.
Good luck!
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Raeburn" <raeburn(at)snowhill.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Loss of RPM on Takeoff
>
> Thanks for all the info. that is coming in from everyone concerning the
loss
> of RPM on take off with my aircraft. I can achieve 6100 rpm on a static
> runup but only 4200 rpm on the takeoff run and climbout.
>
> Let me give you more information.
>
> 1. The previous propeller and the presently used propellor are(were) both
> Warp Drive, 3 blade, fixed pitch props. Ground adjustable.
> 2. I checked the prop. and it is not installed backwards.
> 3. The engine used is a Rotax 582 on a Kolb MK III.
> 4. I have tied the tail down and performed prolonged static runups,
> achieving 6100 rpm each time.
> 5. The reason for the prop. change was that a rear Lexan window came off
> during takeoff one day, hitting the prop. The vibration was quite severe
as
> you can imagine, causing the carbs. to vibrate loose. This was good in a
way
> because it made the engine stop causing any further damage. The runway was
> long enough that the aircraft just glided back to the runway.
> 6. The carbs. have been disassembled and I can see no damage to the carbs.
> 7. I have 2 new rubber boots on order (That connect the carbs. to the
engine
> intake).
> 8. The engine loses the rpm as I accelerate down the runway.
> I am still thinking the problem is in the carbs. due to the vibration that
> occurred on the takeoff.
> 9. The fuel tanks are nearly full each time on take off so there is plenty
> of fuel.
> 10. I'm not sure how it behaves in cruise flight due to the fact that
after
> I get up to 200 ft, I usually put the "old girl" back on the runway!
>
> I'll keep you all up to-date on the progress of this problem.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David & Maria Lumgair" <dlummy(at)visi.net> |
Subject: | Re: Loss of RPM on Takeoff |
this is a long shot but check the crank case pulse tube going to you fuel
pump - as it may be collapsing and restricting pulses to the fuel pump. Saw
this on a friends Kitfox. Put her under load and she'd just about stall.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Raeburn" <raeburn(at)snowhill.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Loss of RPM on Takeoff
>
> Thanks for all the info. that is coming in from everyone concerning the
loss
> of RPM on take off with my aircraft. I can achieve 6100 rpm on a static
> runup but only 4200 rpm on the takeoff run and climbout.
>
> Let me give you more information.
>
> 1. The previous propeller and the presently used propellor are(were) both
> Warp Drive, 3 blade, fixed pitch props. Ground adjustable.
> 2. I checked the prop. and it is not installed backwards.
> 3. The engine used is a Rotax 582 on a Kolb MK III.
> 4. I have tied the tail down and performed prolonged static runups,
> achieving 6100 rpm each time.
> 5. The reason for the prop. change was that a rear Lexan window came off
> during takeoff one day, hitting the prop. The vibration was quite severe
as
> you can imagine, causing the carbs. to vibrate loose. This was good in a
way
> because it made the engine stop causing any further damage. The runway was
> long enough that the aircraft just glided back to the runway.
> 6. The carbs. have been disassembled and I can see no damage to the carbs.
> 7. I have 2 new rubber boots on order (That connect the carbs. to the
engine
> intake).
> 8. The engine loses the rpm as I accelerate down the runway.
> I am still thinking the problem is in the carbs. due to the vibration that
> occurred on the takeoff.
> 9. The fuel tanks are nearly full each time on take off so there is plenty
> of fuel.
> 10. I'm not sure how it behaves in cruise flight due to the fact that
after
> I get up to 200 ft, I usually put the "old girl" back on the runway!
>
> I'll keep you all up to-date on the progress of this problem.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: more misc questions: New Kolb owner |
> Yes. One of our local EAA members had his father killed in a homebuilt when
> the rod end bearing which was attached to the bottom of the control stick
> and ran to the elevator push/pull bellcrank came off. This happened many
> years ago. I distinctly remember him talking about it at a club meeting.
> Tony Bingelis references rod end bearing failure on page 136 of his book
> Sportplane Construction Techniques and shows how the safety washer is to be
> installed.
>
> Richard Pike
Thanks Richard/All:
After I punched off that last message I got to thinking.
Now I remember fender washers on the pitch change links on
the main rotor and on the tail rotor rod end bearings.
The rod end bearing that separated on your buddy's Dad's
aircraft must have really been in bad shape for a long time
to separate. In my raggedy old mind I can see the shank
breaking or the craw dad breaking from severe side loads
long before bearing failure. If used in the proper
application, it should be in a push/push environment, not
side loaded.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Loss of RPM on Takeoff |
> this is a long shot but check the crank case pulse tube
going to you fuel
> pump - as it may be collapsing and restricting pulses to the fuel pump. Saw
> this on a friends Kitfox. Put her under load and she'd just about stall.
> Dave
Dave/All:
John R said he had done prolonged full throttle static runs.
If it was pulse tube collapsing, it would probably happen
during the static run.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
Paul
Go ahead and grind of any welding slag and maybe squeeze the ring some to
make it round. If you have to do major work on the part then stop there and
get Kolb to replace it. They need to know of the problem so that someone
else doesn't have the same problem. This isn't something you have to finish
at this point. In fact I agree with Larry Bourne you want to fit the tube in
the fuselage first then mount the tail. Also if you make it fit and screw it
up you will have to pay to get a replacement.
My $.02 worth
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: fit
>
> Kolbers,
> I am armed with drum sanding, high speed drill, grinding rocks. It's me
vs. the tail post. I plan to win this one. One way or the other! Will let
you know the out come......
>
> pp
> Building the Kolbra " Ms.Pterodactyl"
> that better?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
Subject: | Re: more misc questions: New Kolb owner |
SMTPD_IN_RCVD
> Richard/All:
>
> Have you or anyone else ever seen or know of a rod end
> bearing failure?
>
> john h
>
>
> John,
Yes I have seen a rod end bearing fail, it was on the left front wheel of a
go cart I was driving at age 16, the wheel turned full left and I slid to a
stop. No harm done but this rod end was a lot heavier than we use on light
aircraft.
Consider for a moment that your Mk-3 push rods (all four of em) would swing
into the prop if a front (flap rod) bearing slid over the head of the bolt,
or if the bottom aileron push pull rods slid over the bolt head. Not to
mention the loss of full roll control that would result from this
happening. Now consider how simple it is to put a large OD 3/16" fender
washer under the head of each of these 4 bolts. This eliminates any chance
of a rod end bearing failure causing loss of any control.
Also, the FAA examiner that issued my airworthiness certificate checked my
rod end bearings to ensure they had fender washers retaining them.
I know you have more hours on Kolbs than any ten of us can ever hope to
have, but for Goodness Sakes, please consider putting the washers on yours,
it might save you from another Big One that you might not walk away from.
With the hours you run up on Miss P-fer, you are more likely than any of us
to experience a failure.
Sincerely,
Dennis Rowe, Mk-3, PA.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
I dug out a ratty ol' pic of Vamoose' flap linkage, showing the retaining washers in place. If you're not sure, take a look at http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/flyingpicshome.html . Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "David & Maria Lumgair" <dlummy(at)visi.net> |
Subject: | Re: Loss of RPM on Takeoff |
Good point John H. like I said it was a long shot. My next ? is how does he
keep the engine cool durring a prolonged static run at full throttle? --
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Loss of RPM on Takeoff
>
> > this is a long shot but check the crank case pulse tube
> going to you fuel
> > pump - as it may be collapsing and restricting pulses to the fuel pump.
Saw
> > this on a friends Kitfox. Put her under load and she'd just about
stall.
> > Dave
>
> Dave/All:
>
> John R said he had done prolonged full throttle static runs.
> If it was pulse tube collapsing, it would probably happen
> during the static run.
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
SMTPD_IN_RCVD
Lar wrote:
> I dug out a ratty ol' pic of Vamoose' flap linkage, showing the retaining
washers in place. If you're not sure, take a look at
http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/flyingpicshome.html .
Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> www.gogittum.com
>
>
> Lar and gang,
Checking out the photo on your web sight jogged my memory a little and I
recall that on a couple of my rod end bearings I had to install a regular
washer under the fender washers to allow the Heim joint to have unrestricted
travel. Without the little washer the outer housing of the heim joint would
bind against the fender washer. This may only occur when the aircraft is
being folded up, but I thought it best to allow the heim joints unresticted
travel as binding so closs to the joint can but large loads on it. I am
pretty sure the aileron push rods needed this little washer for regular
control movements.
Also, Lars web page states that you need a washer on both sides of the rod
end, but you only need one on the side away from the bellcranks as the
bellcranks take care of anything going the other way.
Also you will need to install longer bolts after adding a washer or two to
these areas as you will not have room for your cotter pins with the old
bolts.
I apologize for wearing this subject out, but it just seems pretty important
to me.
Sincerely,
Dennis Rowe, Mk-3, PA were we are flying small household appliances as kites
this morning. :-(
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Good on you ! ! ! I had forgotten about the small washers under the big
ones.........mine bound up, too. One washer will do the job..........I just
like overkill, and thought it might be a little better in the un-likely
event that one did fail. Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Washers
>
>
> Lar wrote:
> > I dug out a ratty ol' pic of Vamoose' flap linkage, showing the
retaining
> washers in place. If you're not sure, take a look at
> http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/flyingpicshome.html .
> Lar.
> >
> > Larry Bourne
> > Palm Springs, CA
> > Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> > www.gogittum.com
> >
> >
> > Lar and gang,
> Checking out the photo on your web sight jogged my memory a little and I
> recall that on a couple of my rod end bearings I had to install a regular
> washer under the fender washers to allow the Heim joint to have
unrestricted
> travel. Without the little washer the outer housing of the heim joint
would
> bind against the fender washer. This may only occur when the aircraft is
> being folded up, but I thought it best to allow the heim joints
unresticted
> travel as binding so closs to the joint can but large loads on it. I am
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: more misc questions: New Kolb owner |
>
>I don't quite follow:
>
>> also make sure the builder of your plane installed
>> large diameter washers on the ball joints to keep them from seporating if
>> the ball joint fails.
>
Aaron,
My humble apologies for sending the wrong jump.
An example can be seen at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly54.html
I dished the washers so they would not bind the bearings as the controls moved.
This saves a little weight.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Registration questions |
From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
11/13/2003 12:17:12 PM
"Can this qualify for ELSA even if I did
not build it and the builder did not register it?"
I have asked the registration question of Sue Gardner and EAA reps myself.
Assuming FAA's final rule is consistent with the proposed rule, it is my
understanding that you will be able to register the Firestar as a light
sport aircraft regardless of whether you built the plane yourself or not.
The only condition is that you will need to get some repairman's training
in order to do repairs ( I think a two-day course is required) or sign off
your own annual inspection (longer training required - a week or two if I
remember right). One of the primary objectives of the rule is to bring the
fat and two-place ultralights into compliance, and their success at this
would be limited if there was no way to register a plane that the owner did
not build.
regards,
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Titan exhaust system |
From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
11/13/2003 12:27:02 PM
I am temporarily grounded due to cracking and excessive wear on the Titan
exhaust system on my 912S. Removed it and sent it in to Titan a few weeks
ago. Upon inspection they were surprised by how much damage there was to
it in only a relatively short time - around a hundred hours of use. A lot
of it appears to be associated with excessive tension on the springs that
connect the 4 exhaust pipes with the muffler, although they say the
distance between the attachment hooks on mine is the same as on all of
them. Some of the pipes were being pulled up and over the welded stops
resulting in a lot of chipping and wear.
They have now recommended replacing the whole unit rather than doing
repairs. The good news: they have graciously offered to replace it at
half price. The bad: thats still $430. Yikes!
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
Kolbers,
Well one and one half hours of sanding/polishing the tailpost ring gave in and
with some serious banging it is in place. Not sure how I'm going to get back off.
Bruce at TNK said Ray made a device that incorporates the use of a slide hammer
that he uses frequently.
Thanks for all the help it really paid off.
pp
Building Kolbra 012
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "boyd young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
Have you or anyone else ever seen or know of a rod end
bearing failure?
john h
i have seen some get loose after a lot of wear ( 40 year old ga ) but never
come apart.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "boyd young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
Subject: | landing with flaps / airspeed |
- Flaps... the previous owners would use no flaps for landing keeping speed at
70 (dual... 65-68 solo). They would use one notch only once in a while and didn't
like the feeling of landing with them. I know airspeed is a good thing, but
this feels too fast. I also have been doing my landings with one notch at 60-65mph
approach. It just feels better to me. Is this too slow? The previous owners
were worried about landing super hard with two notches of flaps. What is
the general opinion on Mk3 landings? None, one or full flaps?
Thanks,
Aaron
aaron
my experience is this.... after flying 118 hours in 10 month i took a friend
up for a ride.. upon reaching 800 to 900 ft i had a tool that had been inadvertently
left on the engine or wing gap seal come out from hiding and was hit
by a wood prop tip. the results caused part of the blade tip to seperate,
the out of balance condition was real bad and i thought that the engine was going
to depart the plane. i cut the throttle and pushed the nose over to maintain
airspeed, started a 180 deg turn to go back to the field. i flew the approach
at 55 ( the speed that i had determined to give me the best glide angle)
all was fine untill i reached about 8 ft above the runway, then i hit a low
level wind sheer.( that is the best explination i could come up with ) resulting
in not enough energy to flair...as i pulled back on the stick the horizontal
and elevator did not respond.. i hit the ground at the glide angle.
my conclusions:
without the engine running and well within the forward cg limit (further testing
has suported this) it seems that the rear stabilizer and elevator stalled.
with the engine running the tail will respond to a point where the wings stall.
(about 40 with two on board.) without the engine running 55 was the point
where the elevator would no longer hold the plane level. i was extreemely
close to a disaster all the way down from 800 ft. during the first 100
hours flying with a passenger i always approached at 55 to 60 with the engine
running 3000 rpm + - with lots of solo landings at engine idle at 55 to 60
without incident. since i rebuilt i always approach at 70 solo or dual..
if the engine were to quit on final i dont want to come up short again. the
airspeed bleeds off quickly enough that slowing down in the flair is not a
problem.
with the subject line reading landing with flaps... i should mention it... I
now have just over 220 hours and my prefered landing is with ond notch of flaps....
about 20 deg. i have landed with about 40 deg and with no flaps and
i feel comfortable doing so but the 20 deg just feels better.
this is from my experience and is my opinion.... take it for what it is worth.
learn the limits of your aircraft and fly safe.
boyd young
mkIII clasic
utah
do archive
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: rod end failure |
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
I flew a Mark II where the ball joint in the stick froze up. It became very difficult
to move laterally. It was very gusty that day and needed to make a crosswind
landing. What a challenge that was! The owner, along for the ride, was very
thankful nothing happened when we landed.
Ralph
Original Firestar
16 years flying it
-- "boyd young" wrote:
Have you or anyone else ever seen or know of a rod end
bearing failure?
john h
i have seen some get loose after a lot of wear ( 40 year old ga ) but never
come apart.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
SMTPD_IN_RCVD
The previous two owners of my Kolb Mk3 always used a 10-15pound weight attached
(taped securely) to the tail wheel tube when flying dual. I want to know if this
is a normal thing to do (adding tail weight for dual).. and if anyone has
a better way than taping weight. They mentioned that it does fly ok without the
weight but even with full trim you need quite a bit of back pressure on the
elevator to fly. The dual load that I am talking about was pilot 220lbs, and pass
220... plane empty 550.. so right at gross or very slightly over. They put
180 hours on the plane, almost all dual w/ the extra tail weight.
Comments?
I will try and do a weight and balance this weekend and see where its at.
aaron
-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
I'm glad this subject was brought up. It had me take a closer look at
everything. The builder did use large washers on the outside of all joints
that could potentially fail. Nice to know why they are there.
I am quite pleased. I found a CFI in the colorado springs area to fly with!
Really nice guy too. If anyone out at meadowlake or in the area is looking
for a CFI friendly the N-numbered ULs (taildragger too) email me and I'll
pass on his contact info.
We only flew for 30 minutes or so this morning because the clouds were so
low. But it will be nice to finish most of my GA time in my own plane. Now
to find and examiner that will ride with me in the Mk3.
Aaron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Washers
>
>
> Lar wrote:
> > I dug out a ratty ol' pic of Vamoose' flap linkage, showing the
retaining
> washers in place. If you're not sure, take a look at
> http://www.flyingpics.homestead.com/flyingpicshome.html .
> Lar.
> >
> > Larry Bourne
> > Palm Springs, CA
> > Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> > www.gogittum.com
> >
> >
> > Lar and gang,
> Checking out the photo on your web sight jogged my memory a little and I
> recall that on a couple of my rod end bearings I had to install a regular
> washer under the fender washers to allow the Heim joint to have
unrestricted
> travel. Without the little washer the outer housing of the heim joint
would
> bind against the fender washer. This may only occur when the aircraft is
> being folded up, but I thought it best to allow the heim joints
unresticted
> travel as binding so closs to the joint can but large loads on it. I am
> pretty sure the aileron push rods needed this little washer for regular
> control movements.
> Also, Lars web page states that you need a washer on both sides of the rod
> end, but you only need one on the side away from the bellcranks as the
> bellcranks take care of anything going the other way.
> Also you will need to install longer bolts after adding a washer or two
to
> these areas as you will not have room for your cotter pins with the old
> bolts.
> I apologize for wearing this subject out, but it just seems pretty
important
> to me.
>
> Sincerely,
> Dennis Rowe, Mk-3, PA were we are flying small household appliances as
kites
> this morning. :-(
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
Subject: | Re: landing with flaps / airspeed |
Thanks for sharing your exp. I flew with a passenger today and approached at
about 65-68. It sure seems easier to land dual that solo. I did have my tail
weighted (see my previous post about the tail weight). It really does behave
nicely with the extra weight... not that solo is bad.. just more work
keeping it straight after touchdown.
aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "boyd young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: landing with flaps / airspeed
>
>
> - Flaps... the previous owners would use no flaps for landing keeping
speed at
> 70 (dual... 65-68 solo). They would use one notch only once in a while and
didn't
> like the feeling of landing with them. I know airspeed is a good thing,
but
> this feels too fast. I also have been doing my landings with one notch at
60-65mph
> approach. It just feels better to me. Is this too slow? The previous
owners
> were worried about landing super hard with two notches of flaps. What is
> the general opinion on Mk3 landings? None, one or full flaps?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Aaron
>
>
> aaron
> my experience is this.... after flying 118 hours in 10 month i took a
friend up for a ride.. upon reaching 800 to 900 ft i had a tool that had
been inadvertently left on the engine or wing gap seal come out from hiding
and was hit by a wood prop tip. the results caused part of the blade tip
to seperate, the out of balance condition was real bad and i thought that
the engine was going to depart the plane. i cut the throttle and pushed
the nose over to maintain airspeed, started a 180 deg turn to go back to the
field. i flew the approach at 55 ( the speed that i had determined to give
me the best glide angle) all was fine untill i reached about 8 ft above the
runway, then i hit a low level wind sheer.( that is the best explination i
could come up with ) resulting in not enough energy to flair...as i pulled
back on the stick the horizontal and elevator did not respond.. i hit the
ground at the glide angle.
>
> my conclusions:
>
> without the engine running and well within the forward cg limit (further
testing has suported this) it seems that the rear stabilizer and elevator
stalled. with the engine running the tail will respond to a point where
the wings stall. (about 40 with two on board.) without the engine running
55 was the point where the elevator would no longer hold the plane level.
i was extreemely close to a disaster all the way down from 800 ft.
during the first 100 hours flying with a passenger i always approached at
55 to 60 with the engine running 3000 rpm + - with lots of solo landings
at engine idle at 55 to 60 without incident. since i rebuilt i always
approach at 70 solo or dual.. if the engine were to quit on final i dont
want to come up short again. the airspeed bleeds off quickly enough that
slowing down in the flair is not a problem.
>
> with the subject line reading landing with flaps... i should mention it...
I now have just over 220 hours and my prefered landing is with ond notch of
flaps.... about 20 deg. i have landed with about 40 deg and with no
flaps and i feel comfortable doing so but the 20 deg just feels better.
>
> this is from my experience and is my opinion.... take it for what it is
worth. learn the limits of your aircraft and fly safe.
>
>
> boyd young
> mkIII clasic
> utah
>
> do archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
During the winter flying months due to the extra clothing that I wear, I attach
an oak board with holes routed out to offset the extra weight. That triangular
board has a dual purpose in that it breaks up ice and snow ahead of the tailwheel
to protect it. I attach it to the tailwheel rod with three long hose clamps.
The fiberglass tailwheel rod is covered with thick neoprene tubing to protect
it from the clamps. I remove the board when spring arrives.
Ralph
Original Firestar
16 years flying it
-- "Aaron Hollingsworth" wrote:
The previous two owners of my Kolb Mk3 always used a 10-15pound weight attached
(taped securely) to the tail wheel tube when flying dual. I want to know if this
is a normal thing to do (adding tail weight for dual).. and if anyone has
a better way than taping weight. They mentioned that it does fly ok without the
weight but even with full trim you need quite a bit of back pressure on the
elevator to fly. The dual load that I am talking about was pilot 220lbs, and pass
220... plane empty 550.. so right at gross or very slightly over. They put
180 hours on the plane, almost all dual w/ the extra tail weight.
Comments?
I will try and do a weight and balance this weekend and see where its at.
aaron
-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
Hi Everyone,
I have just found out that I have not been receiving all of the email that
has been sent to me ( AOL problem? Virus?). I was wondering if I had just
pis*ed off the experts on the list to the point they no longer were answering my
questions or if I had a computer related problem (or both?). I have now found
out that at least half of that equation is accurate. If you have sent me a
responce to questions and I did not sent you a "thank you", please re-email your
reply as I did not recieve what was sent. Thanks.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rod End Bearings and Fender Washers |
Larry/All:
Does anyone on the List have the FAA publication that would
require AN 970 washers as safeties on rod end bearings?
I couldn't find anything spelled out in the FAA data base.
Probably a really good idea to install these washers in some
applications, especially if you do not plan to inspect them
during preflight and annuals.
I have had good luck with rod end bearings, an item that
gets attention every preflight.
A little shot of oil once in a great while will do wonders
to make them last longer.
On the FAA AD site there was an AN for TH-13 helicopters for
rod end bearings. These were tail rotor pitch change links
with rod end bearings. They were to be replaced when the
reached .015" wear or greater.
Take care,
john h
> Did you see the picture I published last night ?? Correct me if'n
> I'm wrong, but doesn't the FAA require these on certified aircraft ??
> Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Subject: | Re: Dribbling Bing Carburetors |
>Jack,
>Do you think your dribble bibs would work if I did not include the 3/16 idle
>air high rise tubes? I have a real aversion to adding anything that could be
>injested into the engine if it came loose.
>
>Denny
Denny,
Yes, If I was doing it over again, I would use a short percolation air vent tube
and bring it straight out under the bib. If it came loose, it would fall into
the air cleaner but could not be pulled into the engine. Another thing that
you can do is to drill two small holes and safety wire this tube to the bib.
And then use JB Weld to plug the wire holes to prevent the oil from leaking
through them. If the bib is rolled so that it is slightly larger than the lip
it becomes loose. Also with the percolation vent tube safety wired to the bib,
there is even less chance of anything being ingested. Just be sure to clean
everything well be for applying the JB Weld.
It is so nice not having to scrub oil off of everything.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "ron wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
, ,
"tr wells" , "Jasen Wells"
http://www.goodthink.com/$$tablecontents.html
this is a great story, very long but a great laugh and true, some may remember
it!
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Loss of RPM on Takeoff |
Install a temporary fuel pressure gauge
dz fs2 260hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Thom Riddle" <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
Subject: | Re: Titan exhaust system |
The Rotax 2-stroke engine exhaust springs come in two lengths, less than 1/4" difference
is length, if I recall correctly. Using the short ones when you should
be using the long ones will definitely put too much tension on the joint. Check
with California Power Systems for the correct springs.
Thom in Buffalo
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi(at)supernet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Loss of RPM on Takeoff |
Dennis Souder wrote:
Warps have all sorts of
> variations of tapers to the tips, for instance, and possibly you have a prop
> with a taper that isn't optimized for your engine. Kolb had purchased quite
> a few Warp props over the years and I recall Dale always thinking aloud
> about what taper to cut.
I don't have any experience with Warp props. We have been flying with
Ivo for years. Are you saying that Warps are custom made with no
standard cut? I am considering a new prop on a plane that I just bought
and would like to get any information about the best props out there.
I can't help but think that the rpm drop is prop related, as it
> sounds like a properly functioning taper tip - but just more effect than
> helpful! If, for instance, the taper was cut much longer than it should be,
> then a longer portion of the blade would be stalled at a static run-up.
> Then as you start moving, the speed increase would result in the airflow
> starting to re-attach at the stalled portion of the blades and
> ...progressively increase the loading on the engine.
I vote for your theory on John's rpm loss! -- Earl
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rod End Bearings and Fender Washers |
I don't recall ever seeing such a requirement=====
--- John Hauck wrote:
>
>
> Larry/All:
>
> Does anyone on the List have the FAA publication
> that would
> require AN 970 washers as safeties on rod end
> bearings?
>
> I couldn't find anything spelled out in the FAA data
> base.
>
> Probably a really good idea to install these washers
> in some
> applications, especially if you do not plan to
> inspect them
> during preflight and annuals.
>
> I have had good luck with rod end bearings, an item
> that
> gets attention every preflight.
>
> A little shot of oil once in a great while will do
> wonders
> to make them last longer.
>
> On the FAA AD site there was an AN for TH-13
> helicopters for
> rod end bearings. These were tail rotor pitch
> change links
> with rod end bearings. They were to be replaced
> when the
> reached .015" wear or greater.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
> > Did you see the picture I published last night ??
> Correct me if'n
> > I'm wrong, but doesn't the FAA require these on
> certified aircraft ??
> > Lar.
>
>
>
> Click on the
> this
> generous
> _->
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Ron
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)pa.net> |
Subject: | Re: Loss of RPM on Takeoff |
Hi Earl,
I would think that Warp would have the tapers figured out to a higher degree
of precision than they did years ago - back then it was probably more guess
work as it was a relatively new concept at that time (tapering the tips to
induce tip stalling at low airspeeds). I would expect they would have some
standard cuts by now. The point I was attempting to make with John's useage
of a used prop was that there are certainly a lot of Warp props in
circulation and the used prop he latched onto may well have a taper not
suitable to his engine or speed aircraft. John did not elaborate on that
aspect of the propeller. For any Kolb aircraft, I would think Warp would
have exactly the right taper for you.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl & Mim Zimmerman" <emzi(at)supernet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Loss of RPM on Takeoff
>
> Dennis Souder wrote:
> Warps have all sorts of
> > variations of tapers to the tips, for instance, and possibly you have a
prop
> > with a taper that isn't optimized for your engine. Kolb had purchased
quite
> > a few Warp props over the years and I recall Dale always thinking aloud
> > about what taper to cut.
>
> I don't have any experience with Warp props. We have been flying with
> Ivo for years. Are you saying that Warps are custom made with no
> standard cut? I am considering a new prop on a plane that I just bought
> and would like to get any information about the best props out there.
>
> I can't help but think that the rpm drop is prop related, as it
> > sounds like a properly functioning taper tip - but just more effect than
> > helpful! If, for instance, the taper was cut much longer than it should
be,
> > then a longer portion of the blade would be stalled at a static run-up.
> > Then as you start moving, the speed increase would result in the airflow
> > starting to re-attach at the stalled portion of the blades and
> > ...progressively increase the loading on the engine.
>
> I vote for your theory on John's rpm loss! -- Earl
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
Aaron
Wow 10-15 pounds on the tail wheel tube. That's a lot and I don't think that
is normal. Yes do a weight and balance on your plane then for grins try it
with that weight back there. You need to find out why they would do that.
Kolbs have a wide CG range due to that long fuselage tube but when you add
that much weight that far from the CG you are likely to make the plane very
tail heavy. The first symptom of being tail heavy would be a pitch up
tendency, then difficulty to control pitch in turbulence then some thing
major like not being able to lower the nose to get out of a stall.
If you find that the CG is good without the tail weight (it should be) and
you feel the need to reduce the stick/trim pressure when flying with
passengers try raising the flaps and ailerons. A little goes a log ways try
1/2 a turn on each aileron first. The starting point should be some were
close to where the flaps and ailerons are even with the bottom of the wing.
Also check the rigging of the trim spring. When you are flying solo with the
lightest pilot you should be able to trim the airplane with the trim lever
near the down position. With two heavy people you should be able to trim
with the lever near the up and back position.
My $.02 worth
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: tail weight
>
>
> The previous two owners of my Kolb Mk3 always used a 10-15pound weight
attached (taped securely) to the tail wheel tube when flying dual. I want to
know if this is a normal thing to do (adding tail weight for dual).. and if
anyone has a better way than taping weight. They mentioned that it does fly
ok without the weight but even with full trim you need quite a bit of back
pressure on the elevator to fly. The dual load that I am talking about was
pilot 220lbs, and pass 220... plane empty 550.. so right at gross or very
slightly over. They put 180 hours on the plane, almost all dual w/ the extra
tail weight.
>
> Comments?
>
>
> I will try and do a weight and balance this weekend and see where its at.
>
> aaron
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
Subject: | Re: landing with flaps / airspeed |
-----
Subject: Kolb-List: landing with flaps / airspeed
>
What is
> the general opinion on Mk3 landings? None, one or full flaps?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Aaron
>
With the Mark III that I just sold, I found that when I was solo it was
very difficult to land with two notches of flaps and not do a little
dribbling. Nothing serious, just embarrassing. The approach was steep, even
the GA guys thought so, but not a problem. I always kept it at 60 mph on
approach and generally at about 4000 rpms. I finally got tired of dribbling
in front of all my friends so I began landing without flaps when solo, no
problem, nice and smooth. However when dual there was enough weight to keep
the plane penetrating enough that the full flap landing was as smooth as no
flaps solo. The airspeeds were the same 60 mph. Stall was 36 solo- 45 dual.
I came to the conclusion (rightly or wrongly) that solo, I would invariably
flair too much and the airplane would stall causing the bounce. It seemed
that with the extra weight it was much easier to land. Most likely too heavy
handed, and not enough experience with the plane.
Larry, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | NealMcCann(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Loss of RPM on Takeoff |
-might also check that the carb floats don't bind and stick on climbout.
Rotax had a float modification a few years back due to this happening.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Warp Drive Props |
Morning Gang:
Just got off the phone with Darrell at Warp Drive. He is
the guy that is going to answer the phone when you call. He
will be the one to recommend what prop to fly on your airplane.
Warp Drive has come a long way since the days Dennis Souder
shared with us, when Dennis would call Warp Drive and they
would try to figure out what was going to work best on that
particular application.
They have the numbers now on most all applications, except
some of the newer aircraft, and they will obtain figures for
them ASAP.
Warp has one of the best guarantees of the prop
manufacturers - lifetime customer satisfaction.
I called Darrell this morning to see if he would put white
tips on my blades. Also to confirm the new polished prop
hub will fit the 5" spinner. The last hub and spinner I got
from them, the hub was slightly smaller than the spinner.
This system did not work well in the pusher configuration.
Now, that problem has been eliminated. Does the spinner
improve performance in the pusher configuration? I don't
know, but it does make the airplane look better. I got a
chance to see the polished hub, spinner, and white tips at
Oshkosh. They are an improvement on what I have now.
With the new starter and slip clutch installed in my 912S, I
anxiously await the arrival of my new prop. I flew the
first 100 hours or so on the 912S with the 72" prop. It has
been three years ago, but I still remember the kick in the
butt those long blades made when I poured the coal to Miss
P'fer.
Check out Warp Drive's web site:
http://www.warpdriveprops.com/
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
Subject: | Re: Left Rudder? |
Thanks for the info. I have been flying with a new GA instructor (working on
finishing my GA ticket) and have been flying with the mentioned extra tail
weight. We did power off stalls today. We found that in the 6 or so stall we
did that the left wing would always drop off. Not too drastically, but a
good 20 deg or so. Recovery was very easy, just let it nose down, gain
airspeed with leveling wings, add a little power and level nose. Pretty
uneventful.
One thing that the instructor and I are both noticing is that we are flying
most of the time with 30-50% left rudder to keep coordinated. My slip gauge
may be slightly off, but I doubt by that much. There is not any rudder trim
tab on the plane. Between 80% left rudder on fullpower takeoff and flying
around at 30%+, it sounds like my plane could sure use a rudder tab.
Being as inexperienced in the kolb as I am... I have no idea how to add one,
how big of one to buy... if it is recommended at all etc. Any suggestions?
Regards,
Aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: landing with flaps / airspeed
>
>
> -----
> Subject: Kolb-List: landing with flaps / airspeed
>
>
> >
> What is
> > the general opinion on Mk3 landings? None, one or full flaps?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Aaron
> >
> With the Mark III that I just sold, I found that when I was solo it was
> very difficult to land with two notches of flaps and not do a little
> dribbling. Nothing serious, just embarrassing. The approach was steep,
even
> the GA guys thought so, but not a problem. I always kept it at 60 mph on
> approach and generally at about 4000 rpms. I finally got tired of
dribbling
> in front of all my friends so I began landing without flaps when solo, no
> problem, nice and smooth. However when dual there was enough weight to
keep
> the plane penetrating enough that the full flap landing was as smooth as
no
> flaps solo. The airspeeds were the same 60 mph. Stall was 36 solo- 45
dual.
> I came to the conclusion (rightly or wrongly) that solo, I would
invariably
> flair too much and the airplane would stall causing the bounce. It seemed
> that with the extra weight it was much easier to land. Most likely too
heavy
> handed, and not enough experience with the plane.
> Larry, Oregon
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
Thanks for the feedback. I have been flying dual with the 10-15 pounds on
the tail both before and after I bought the plane. Stalls break slightly
left, but the nose does drop right down. I do notice landing is far easier
dual, but I have not tried dual without the weight. The previous owner has
tried this and found that he would always be flying with full up trim, and
still have to hold a good bit of back pressure on the stick. I will call TNK
and ask a few questions and try and perform a weight and balance this
weekend.
Thanks,
aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: tail weight
>
> Aaron
>
> Wow 10-15 pounds on the tail wheel tube. That's a lot and I don't think
that
> is normal. Yes do a weight and balance on your plane then for grins try it
> with that weight back there. You need to find out why they would do that.
> Kolbs have a wide CG range due to that long fuselage tube but when you add
> that much weight that far from the CG you are likely to make the plane
very
> tail heavy. The first symptom of being tail heavy would be a pitch up
> tendency, then difficulty to control pitch in turbulence then some thing
> major like not being able to lower the nose to get out of a stall.
>
> If you find that the CG is good without the tail weight (it should be) and
> you feel the need to reduce the stick/trim pressure when flying with
> passengers try raising the flaps and ailerons. A little goes a log ways
try
> 1/2 a turn on each aileron first. The starting point should be some were
> close to where the flaps and ailerons are even with the bottom of the
wing.
>
> Also check the rigging of the trim spring. When you are flying solo with
the
> lightest pilot you should be able to trim the airplane with the trim lever
> near the down position. With two heavy people you should be able to trim
> with the lever near the up and back position.
>
> My $.02 worth
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: tail weight
>
>
>
> >
> >
> > The previous two owners of my Kolb Mk3 always used a 10-15pound weight
> attached (taped securely) to the tail wheel tube when flying dual. I want
to
> know if this is a normal thing to do (adding tail weight for dual).. and
if
> anyone has a better way than taping weight. They mentioned that it does
fly
> ok without the weight but even with full trim you need quite a bit of back
> pressure on the elevator to fly. The dual load that I am talking about was
> pilot 220lbs, and pass 220... plane empty 550.. so right at gross or very
> slightly over. They put 180 hours on the plane, almost all dual w/ the
extra
> tail weight.
> >
> > Comments?
> >
> >
> > I will try and do a weight and balance this weekend and see where its
at.
> >
> > aaron
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
Subject: | Radio REALLY sucks |
SMTPD_IN_RCVD
ok.. In my challengerI my radio worked well. (JRC nav/com 520). for some reason
in my kolb mk3 no one can understand a work I say. My CH1 had an external antena
that I tied it into. That must be the key to the problem because we tried
an icom today too and it sounded as bad. I have tried with and without the intercom
with the same result so I think that the intercom is ok.
I dont know what type of ant. my ch1 had on it. Just that it was a stiff wire with
a bb sized ball at the end. Anyone have a place to recommend buying an ant.
from? Also, will the ant. come with whatever mounting and cabling needed to
run it?
Thanks,
Aaron
-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | [PLEASE READ] - Why Do I Have A Fund Raiser Each Year? |
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I have received an extremely positive response from Listers regarding the
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: Left Rudder? |
Yep, you do need tabs. All MKIII's need tabs. Here's a picture of some.
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg6.htm
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>
>One thing that the instructor and I are both noticing is that we are flying
>most of the time with 30-50% left rudder to keep coordinated. My slip gauge
>may be slightly off, but I doubt by that much. There is not any rudder trim
>tab on the plane. Between 80% left rudder on fullpower takeoff and flying
>around at 30%+, it sounds like my plane could sure use a rudder tab.
>
>Being as inexperienced in the kolb as I am... I have no idea how to add one,
>how big of one to buy... if it is recommended at all etc. Any suggestions?
>
>Regards,
>
>Aaron
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
Assuming you have the same size springs that Kolb sent me, try rigging the
trim so that with the stick in neutral, and the trim lever fully forward,
there is no spring pressure. But as soon as you start to apply trim pulling
the lever back, the springs begin to make themselves known with the stick
neutral. See how that works for you.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Thanks for the feedback. I have been flying dual with the 10-15 pounds on
>the tail both before and after I bought the plane. Stalls break slightly
>left, but the nose does drop right down. I do notice landing is far easier
>dual, but I have not tried dual without the weight. The previous owner has
>tried this and found that he would always be flying with full up trim, and
>still have to hold a good bit of back pressure on the stick. I will call TNK
>and ask a few questions and try and perform a weight and balance this
>weekend.
>
>Thanks,
>
>aaron
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
The loudest noise maker is usually the prop. I have had neighbors come up to
me that are over a mile away and comment on how much quieter my airplane is
now. They claimed that they could hear me wind up for take off in their
house over a mile away. I used to have a muffled direct drive VW and it was
terrible. I now have a unruffled reduction drive VW that is significantly
quieter. I used to make radio calls at cruise power settings and I would get
" aircraft broad casting all I hear is noise" . I had to throttle back to
approach power settings to be able to use the radio. My 72 inch prop now
rarely turns more than 2100 RPMs and I think it is still the biggest noise
maker.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Noise Again
>
> I guess I owe 4 banger pilots everywhere an abject apology. That idiot
just went over again for the 3rd or 4th time, so I finally cranked myself
outa that comfy chair, and went to take a look. (today is my Saturday) It
was a Cessna 337 pushme/pullya twin, and I've rarely heard such a racket.
Must be at full throttle, with the props on fine pitch, I guess. No wonder
non-pilots make a fuss at times. Grumblin' Lar. Do
not Archive.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> www.gogittum.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
Subject: | Re: Radio REALLY sucks |
> I dont know what type of ant. my ch1 had on it. Just that it was a stiff
wire with a bb sized ball at the end. Anyone have a place to recommend
buying an ant. from? Also, will the ant. come with whatever mounting and
cabling needed to run it?
> Thanks,
>
> Aaron
> -
>
>
> Aaron,
I installed a 10 inch dia. aluminum sheet plate on the inside bottom of my
nose cone. Through the center I installed a BNC thru connectorand attached
the ICOM rubber-duckie antenna to the underside and a 50 ohm BNC cable to my
ICOM on the top. This acts as a ground plane and I have exceptional nav and
com performance in my MK3. The key is the external antenna.
Denny Rowe, PA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "boyd young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
The previous two owners of my Kolb Mk3 always used a 10-15pound weight attached
(taped securely) to the tail wheel tube when flying dual. I want to know if this
is a normal thing to do (adding tail weight for dual)..
aaron
i dont know anyone who has done this.... but i have considered it..... i just
crunched some numbers and hope i have not tried to make it too simple and goofed
in the process.
lets assume that the cg of the airplane is at 20 inches behind the leading edge.
to make the calculations easy let us move the datum to 20 inches behind
the leading edge. ( that way we wont have to calculate the weight of the plane
in our example.) if we add a passenger of 200 lbs. the moment arm would
be -24 inches providing the passenger cg is 4 inches ahead of the leading edge.
-24 X 200 -4800 inch pounds. assuming that we did not want to change the
cg from the point we started at ( 20 ) we will ne a 4800 inch pound moment
arm to counter. 4800 / 186 25.8 where 186 is the moment arm from the
original 20 inch datum. leaving 25.8 pounds needed at the tail wheel. maybe
this is too simplistic of an approach.... what think all?
boyd
summary datum at 20 inches behind leading edge
moment weight moment arm
0 600 0
-24 200 -4800
186 25.8 4800
---------------------------------------------
0 825.8 0
datum at leading edge (double checking the work)
20 600 12000
-4 200 -800
206 25.8 5314.8
---------------------------------------------
19.998 825.8 16514.8
using the same weights added to the plane with the different datum line showes
the cg at 19.998 inches which for all intent and pourposes the same as the 20
inch ( behind the leading edge) datum in the first example.
this poses a question.... if by adding the weight on the tail it should eliminate
the need for the horizontal to apply that force to keep the plane level..
would it or would it not create a clime performande penality? or would there
be an increase due to decreased drag?
puzzeled minds want to know.
i end again boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aircraft Noise |
> There are a variety of them on e-bay, I think anyone
> with a four stroke that wanted to cut their noise could get a light weight
> aluminum one and readily adapt it to their setup.
>
> Richard Pike
Richard/All:
I flew with a SuperTrap Silencer on my 912 for a short time.
The retaining bolt with a z bend on the end to secure it
to the system always worried me. Quickly did a trade off
for a small silencer of the conventional type that I still
use today on the 912S.
I believe John Bickham posted to the List his experience
with the same set up on his MK III, 912. During our Kitty
Hawk flight, the Super Trap Silencer, with all those discs
and z bolt, nut and cap, departed the aircraft. We were
over very inhospitable terrain at the time. John B was
extremely lucky. He received damage to all three IVO blades
and none to any other part of the aircraft. A very luck man
indeed. Ask him if he wants another Super Trap on a pusher.
Also, ask him what prop he is going to run on the 912.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
Subject: | Re: weight and bal |
My used mark3 has 180 hours from the previous owners. They almost
exclusively flew with a heavy 2 person load and with the 10+ pound tail
wheel weight. I have flown a few hours in this configuration and it seems
very stable. I take the weight off for solo. It feels great solo too.
Even with the 10 pound extra in the tail, it feels perfect to use full
elevator trim on takeoff. only 1/2 so to cruise and land. That seems right.
It trims to hands off flight.
I did just call TNK and they asked me to do a W&B and call them back because
you shouldn't need a tail weight. I will be doing the W&B this weekend and
will get back to them. I'll post my findings. I hope I can figure something
simple like ailerons are drooped a little etc that is causing the nose heavy
two person situation. I would love to ditch the tail weight.... just don't
want to fly around pulling hard back on the stick w/ full trim to stay
level.
aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "boyd young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: weight and bal
>
> The previous two owners of my Kolb Mk3 always used a 10-15pound weight
attached
> (taped securely) to the tail wheel tube when flying dual. I want to know
if this
> is a normal thing to do (adding tail weight for dual)..
>
> aaron
>
> i dont know anyone who has done this.... but i have considered it..... i
just crunched some numbers and hope i have not tried to make it too simple
and goofed in the process.
> lets assume that the cg of the airplane is at 20 inches behind the
leading edge. to make the calculations easy let us move the datum to 20
inches behind the leading edge. ( that way we wont have to calculate the
weight of the plane in our example.) if we add a passenger of 200 lbs.
the moment arm would be -24 inches providing the passenger cg is 4 inches
ahead of the leading edge. -24 X 200 -4800 inch pounds. assuming that
we did not want to change the cg from the point we started at ( 20 ) we
will ne a 4800 inch pound moment arm to counter. 4800 / 186 25.8
where 186 is the moment arm from the original 20 inch datum. leaving 25.8
pounds needed at the tail wheel. maybe this is too simplistic of an
approach.... what think all?
>
> boyd
>
>
> summary datum at 20 inches behind leading edge
>
> moment weight moment arm
> 0 600 0
> -24 200 -4800
> 186 25.8 4800
> ---------------------------------------------
> 0 825.8 0
>
> datum at leading edge (double checking the work)
>
> 20 600 12000
> -4 200 -800
> 206 25.8 5314.8
> ---------------------------------------------
> 19.998 825.8 16514.8
>
> using the same weights added to the plane with the different datum line
showes the cg at 19.998 inches which for all intent and pourposes the same
as the 20 inch ( behind the leading edge) datum in the first example.
>
> this poses a question.... if by adding the weight on the tail it should
eliminate the need for the horizontal to apply that force to keep the plane
level.. would it or would it not create a clime performande penality? or
would there be an increase due to decreased drag?
>
> puzzeled minds want to know.
>
> i end again boyd
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
SMTPD_IN_RCVD
I want to go ahead and put a rudder tab on my mark3. I was planning on just going
over to a hardware store and buying a small piece of alumnium. What should
the deminsions be? My logic tells me that the tab should need to be bent to the
right (looking from behind tail to cockpit). I have a 618. Is this correct?
about how many degrees of bent should I start with?
Thanks
aaron
-
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Rod End Bearings and Fender Washers |
> Thanks for pointing that out. However as you noted the
> AC is not a requirement. I also have the large washers on
> my rod ends, as the plans call for them. Ron
Ron/John W/Denny R/Rick N/and the rest of you all:
Just got back from Gantt International Airport. Did a
thorough check of my aileron push/pull tube rod end
bearings. The lower right showed a little wear. The lower
left no wear. Both dry as bones. Failed to relube after I
gunked the engine last week.
Upper rod end bearings are inside a clevis, so, if they fail
they will be kept in place. My aileron horns are one of a
kind prototypes Brother Jim designed and fabricated in Feb
1991. I have decided to put washers on the bottom rod ends
slightly larger than the bronze bushing. No need to risk a
failure, even though chances are slim to none.
As for flap p/p tube rod end bearings, I won't put washers
on them. They are direct inline pull only. Get used once
per landing. I don't think I need them there.
Please, listen carefully. I am not recommending anything to
anyone as far as AN970 fender washers go. If the plans call
for them, they should be on there. What I say is not
"gospel", simply sharing what I do or don't do, period. I
don't have any authority to recommend anything to anyone. I
am one member of the Kolb List among many. As far as I
know, we have no rank structure on this List. Each and
everyone is the same, whether a "newbie" to Kolbs or an "old
fart". No one has to agree or disagree with me. I believe
this is a discussion group, which means sometimes I can do
the "devils advocate" thing. I can ask dumb questions, in
an attempt to get some of you thinking on your own. I can
have fun with the List. It eats up a lot of my time.
With that, I think I will fly to Circle C, about 60 miles
east of Gantt IAP. See if anyone has arrived for this
weekend's flyin. Got to hurry though. It gets dark at 1700
now.
Take care you all,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: weight and bal |
Aaron/All:
I experimented with aileron droop and reflex until I got my
MK III to fly the way I wanted it to.
When I droop the flaps the nose comes down. When I reflex
them, they pull the nose up.
Ailerons work the same way.
I adjusted both ailerons and flaps on my MK III to get the
airplane to fly the way I wanted it to.
john h
I hope I can figure something
> simple like ailerons are drooped a little etc that is causing the nose heavy
> two person situation. I would love to ditch the tail weight.... just don't
> want to fly around pulling hard back on the stick w/ full trim to stay
> level.
>
> aaron
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
Subject: | 1,000,000 Young Eagle rides! |
Just anounced yesterday, the EAA has gone over one million Young Eagle rides!
That is just PLANE wonderful.
Denny Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "John Clayton" <jclayton(at)usamedia.tv> |
Subject: | Warp Drive Props |
John Hauck/and All,
I think you, and others, should get some sort of "sponsorship" from the
companies and products you have researched and flight tested. A web site
with links to tested and suggested equipment and building hints for Kolb
builders and flyers. Seriously, my son Jim (an IT guy) has categorized and
archived Kolb-list messages from you and others to be contemplated now and
accessed when needed. As the disassembled airplane story illustrated, it's
much better to anticipate modifications, electronics and stall issues while
building a MarkIII Extra with a Rotax 912S than to say OOPS! after it's
covered and painted. Many thanks to you and other frequent contributors who
take the time to make suggestions and answer inquiries.
John Clayton (Jim's dad)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Hauck
Subject: Kolb-List: Warp Drive Props
Morning Gang:
Just got off the phone with Darrell at Warp Drive. He is
the guy that is going to answer the phone when you call. He
will be the one to recommend what prop to fly on your airplane.
Warp Drive has come a long way since the days Dennis Souder
shared with us, when Dennis would call Warp Drive and they
would try to figure out what was going to work best on that
particular application.
They have the numbers now on most all applications, except
some of the newer aircraft, and they will obtain figures for
them ASAP.
Warp has one of the best guarantees of the prop
manufacturers - lifetime customer satisfaction.
I called Darrell this morning to see if he would put white
tips on my blades. Also to confirm the new polished prop
hub will fit the 5" spinner. The last hub and spinner I got
from them, the hub was slightly smaller than the spinner.
This system did not work well in the pusher configuration.
Now, that problem has been eliminated. Does the spinner
improve performance in the pusher configuration? I don't
know, but it does make the airplane look better. I got a
chance to see the polished hub, spinner, and white tips at
Oshkosh. They are an improvement on what I have now.
With the new starter and slip clutch installed in my 912S, I
anxiously await the arrival of my new prop. I flew the
first 100 hours or so on the 912S with the 72" prop. It has
been three years ago, but I still remember the kick in the
butt those long blades made when I poured the coal to Miss
P'fer.
Check out Warp Drive's web site:
http://www.warpdriveprops.com/
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
Subject: | Re: weight and bal |
I assume that you did this without the need for tailweight (looks like I'm
the only fool with 10lbs strapped to my tail). Do you think the aileron
droop/reflex makes a large enough impact on the nose high/low to adjust out
my need for the tailweight?
I know any answer is likely speculation until I get this W&B done.. but just
curious how drastically adjusting the droop/reflex can change the nose heavy
characteristic I am seeing.... damn I hope that when I get to the hanger and
look at my ailerons and flaps that they are enough drooped to be causing the
problem. That would be an easier fix than trying to move battery from behind
seat to behind the tanks etc.
Thanks for the input,
aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: weight and bal
>
> Aaron/All:
>
> I experimented with aileron droop and reflex until I got my
> MK III to fly the way I wanted it to.
>
> When I droop the flaps the nose comes down. When I reflex
> them, they pull the nose up.
>
> Ailerons work the same way.
>
> I adjusted both ailerons and flaps on my MK III to get the
> airplane to fly the way I wanted it to.
>
> john h
>
>
> I hope I can figure something
> > simple like ailerons are drooped a little etc that is causing the nose
heavy
> > two person situation. I would love to ditch the tail weight.... just
don't
> > want to fly around pulling hard back on the stick w/ full trim to stay
> > level.
> >
> > aaron
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 11/14/03 3:39:06 PM, aaron(at)gamespeak.com writes:
>
>
> I want to go ahead and put a rudder tab on my mark3. I was planning on just
> going over to a hardware store and buying a small piece of alumnium. What
> should the deminsions be? My logic tells me that the tab should need to be bent
> to the right (looking from behind tail to cockpit). I have a 618. Is this
> correct? about how many degrees of bent should I start with?
>
> Thanks
>
> aaron
> -
>
How about a piece of lexan, can bend it in a brake for different angles and
experiment.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Raeburn <raeburn(at)snowhill.com> |
Subject: | Loss of RPM on Takeoff-problem solved! |
I had a feeling it had to be something simple (and it was). There was too
much pitch set in the new prop.
I now have the static RPM set to 6200 RPM and the RPM goes to 6400 on the
takeoff role. The EGTs and coolant temps.are in the normal range on climbout
and cruise.
Many thanks to everyone who helped in troubleshooting the problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
Kolbers,
Some time back I offered to sell to anyone on the list anything that NAPA offers
at a huge discount as a payback for all the help you have given me. In case
anyone missed that here it is again. In addition to thousands of parts we also
sell swimming pool supplies and Polaris pool cleaners and parts. I know winter
is upon us but for next year if any of you need anything just give me a call
or e-mail and I will be happy to quote you a price. If you are near a NAPA store
stop by and ask for a BALKAMP catalog. In there you can find all sorts of
stuff to maintain and build these airplanes. I think one guy called it "New Airplane
Parts & Accessories"
pp
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: weight and bal |
> I assume that you did this without the need for
> tailweight (looks like I'm the only fool with 10lbs
> strapped to my tail). Do you think the aileron
> droop/reflex makes a large enough impact on the nose
> high/low to adjust out my need for the tailweight?
> aaron
aaron/gang:
I have found that the MK III is very susceptible to the high
thrust line of a pusher configuration. My MK III requires a
lot of nose up trim, especially if I have a passenger and a
very light load of fuel, when the aircraft is a cruise
power. If I pull the power back to idle or shut the engine
off and glide, I do not need nose up trim. More like a
little nose down trim. It is the nature of the beast.
Yes, reflexing the flaps and ailerons will most definitely
reduce the amount of nose up trim required during cruise
flight. I attack this problem a little at a time until I
get the aircraft rigged the way I want it. A couple turns
of the rod end bearings (with big ass washers), then test
fly to see if I have accomplished anything.
I have flown my MK III with little tailwheels, the old
Firestar snowmobile bogey wheel, and up to an 8" pneumatic
Maule tailwheel. Doesn't really seem to bother my airplane
one way or the other. I find my MK III, as well as
Ultrastar, and Firestar, have extremely wide cg ranges. I,
personally, have never had a cg problem on any of my Kolb
airplanes, in just about any configuration. The other day a
couple spins confirmed that. Feels like it is going over on
its back, the nose is so low in a spin.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0(at)msn.com> |
Subject: | Fw: rear windows |
----- Original Message -----
From: CRAIG M NELSON
Subject: rear windows
I'm planning to put windows in the rear of my MKIIIex. With the talk of windows
going through the prop I wanted to know how any of you have mounted windows in
an Extra or a mk III. I know the plans say not to fly with the doors off without
a window behind your head warning the rear windows will come off in flight,
but would you have to enclose the hole cabin to fly door less? Here in the
west I want the option to fly with no doors.
Uncle Craig MKIIIex912uls
Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
Subject: | Re: Fw: rear windows |
I am glad you brought this up. I was just eye balling
the rear cage wondering how to configure it. I would
guess a solution to the window on rear with no doors.
would be to mount the windows on the inside of the
cage with some reinforcing laces of aluminum strips
.040 at least on the outside of the glass. I can
imagine a lot of buffeting beating on the rear with no
doors.
I am also planning on flying in summer with the doors
off.
============================================
--- CRAIG M NELSON wrote:
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: CRAIG M NELSON
> To: kolblist(at)matronics.com
> Subject: rear windows
>
> I'm planning to put windows in the rear of my
> MKIIIex. With the talk of windows going through the
> prop I wanted to know how any of you have mounted
> windows in an Extra or a mk III. I know the plans
> say not to fly with the doors off without a window
> behind your head warning the rear windows will come
> off in flight, but would you have to enclose the
> hole cabin to fly door less? Here in the west I want
> the option to fly with no doors.
> Uncle Craig MKIIIex912uls
> Arizona
>
>
>
> Click on the
> this
> generous
> _->
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Ron
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
Subject: | Re: weight and bal |
Thanks for the input. I'll check the cg with a W&B to make sure something
isn't really screwed.. but I'm crossing fingers that a little reflex or
removing the droop of ailerons and or flaps will eliminate the need for the
tail wheel... and I'll kiss my 'big ass washers' while I'm playing with it
;)
aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: weight and bal
>
>
> > I assume that you did this without the need for
> > tailweight (looks like I'm the only fool with 10lbs
> > strapped to my tail). Do you think the aileron
> > droop/reflex makes a large enough impact on the nose
> > high/low to adjust out my need for the tailweight?
>
> > aaron
>
> aaron/gang:
>
> I have found that the MK III is very susceptible to the high
> thrust line of a pusher configuration. My MK III requires a
> lot of nose up trim, especially if I have a passenger and a
> very light load of fuel, when the aircraft is a cruise
> power. If I pull the power back to idle or shut the engine
> off and glide, I do not need nose up trim. More like a
> little nose down trim. It is the nature of the beast.
>
> Yes, reflexing the flaps and ailerons will most definitely
> reduce the amount of nose up trim required during cruise
> flight. I attack this problem a little at a time until I
> get the aircraft rigged the way I want it. A couple turns
> of the rod end bearings (with big ass washers), then test
> fly to see if I have accomplished anything.
>
> I have flown my MK III with little tailwheels, the old
> Firestar snowmobile bogey wheel, and up to an 8" pneumatic
> Maule tailwheel. Doesn't really seem to bother my airplane
> one way or the other. I find my MK III, as well as
> Ultrastar, and Firestar, have extremely wide cg ranges. I,
> personally, have never had a cg problem on any of my Kolb
> airplanes, in just about any configuration. The other day a
> couple spins confirmed that. Feels like it is going over on
> its back, the nose is so low in a spin.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 11/14/2003 6:45:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ppetty@c-gate.net writes:
Kolbers,
Some time back I offered to sell to anyone on the list anything that NAPA
offers at a huge discount as a payback for all the help you have given me. In
case anyone missed that here it is again. In addition to thousands of parts we
also sell swimming pool supplies and Polaris pool cleaners and parts. I know
winter is upon us but for next year if any of you need anything just give me a
call or e-mail and I will be happy to quote you a price. If you are near a NAPA
store stop by and ask for a BALKAMP catalog. In there you can find all sorts
of stuff to maintain and build these airplanes. I think one guy called it "New
Airplane Parts & Accessories"
pp
A great product that NAPA carries is "Bug-be-gone" [?] made by Seafoam.
Spray it on, wait 1 minute, wipe off bugs from your wing with a wet cloth. Great
stuff!!
Shack
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Sea Foam ?? Whazzat ?? Ooooooohhhhh................. Do not
Archive.
I will try your Bug B Gone, tho'. I've heard about it before - all good.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <HShack(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: NAPA
>
> In a message dated 11/14/2003 6:45:10 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> ppetty@c-gate.net writes:
> Kolbers,
> Some time back I offered to sell to anyone on the list anything that NAPA
> offers at a huge discount as a payback for all the help you have given me.
In
> case anyone missed that here it is again. In addition to thousands of
parts we
> also sell swimming pool supplies and Polaris pool cleaners and parts. I
know
> winter is upon us but for next year if any of you need anything just give
me a
> call or e-mail and I will be happy to quote you a price. If you are near a
NAPA
> store stop by and ask for a BALKAMP catalog. In there you can find all
sorts
> of stuff to maintain and build these airplanes. I think one guy called it
"New
> Airplane Parts & Accessories"
>
> pp
> A great product that NAPA carries is "Bug-be-gone" [?] made by Seafoam.
> Spray it on, wait 1 minute, wipe off bugs from your wing with a wet cloth.
Great
> stuff!!
>
> Shack
> FS II
> SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "ron wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
anyone know a steve gregory in N.C.has/had a ultrastar! it is in kitplanes in
sept.97
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aircraft Noise |
> What difference does it make if you hang a Supertrapp onto your pusher or
> that self-disassembling collection of sheet metal that Rotax sells for an
> overpriced 2-cycle exhaust? The one is about as likely to throw stuff at
> your prop as the other...maybe more.
>
> Richard Pike
Richard/All:
I believe the primary difference is 10 wafers and disc
aprx'ly 3 or 4" in diameter, a zig-zag bolt and nut. Like a
small bomb when the bolt lets go. No problem in the tractor
config, but not good in the pusher config.
You must have lots of problems with you exh system. I don't
remember anything more than springs, fender washers, and
bolts departing my 2 stroke exh and finding its way into and
through my prop.
The Super Trap has one bolt with a z bend holding it in
place. When the bolt lets go, the whole kit and caboodle goes.
For some reason, last time I changed the four springs that
hold the silencer on my exhaust system, I saturated the
springs with silicone seal from one end to the other.
Especially the hooks. Couple days ago a spring broke right
in the middle, but stayed in place. With all the goop I had
on it, didn't have any other choice. Silicone seal is quick
and easy compared to safety wire and does a better job for me.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
Yes guy's that product is great but I know one better. Check these out http://www.cajuncleanall.com/ these amazing cleaning cloths really work. They will remove bugs using only water.
pp
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
Subject: | Re: Aircraft Noise |
Zig zag bolt and nut? You must be thinking about the old style Supertrapp,
can't imagine anyone using that. Both my Supertrapps (current models) have
their discs held in with 6 stainless allen bolts that would be a cinch to
safety wire.
As far as exhaust pieces going through the prop, I used to get the
occasional spring chunk, but since I changed to spring loaded retaining
bolts, and relocated the muffler as close as possible to the engine's axis
of movement, I have had zero problems.
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg2.htm
However, 4 of our locals have had the curlicue expansion cone break or
split (3 503's, 1 532) and they could hear it in flight when the exhaust
note changed. A prompt landing before the vibrating sheet metal broke off &
departed precluded prop strikes.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> > What difference does it make if you hang a Supertrapp onto your pusher or
> > that self-disassembling collection of sheet metal that Rotax sells for an
> > overpriced 2-cycle exhaust? The one is about as likely to throw stuff at
> > your prop as the other...maybe more.
> >
> > Richard Pike
>
>Richard/All:
>
>I believe the primary difference is 10 wafers and disc
>aprx'ly 3 or 4" in diameter, a zig-zag bolt and nut. Like a
>small bomb when the bolt lets go. No problem in the tractor
>config, but not good in the pusher config.
>
>You must have lots of problems with you exh system. I don't
>remember anything more than springs, fender washers, and
>bolts departing my 2 stroke exh and finding its way into and
>through my prop.
>
>The Super Trap has one bolt with a z bend holding it in
>place. When the bolt lets go, the whole kit and caboodle goes.
>
>For some reason, last time I changed the four springs that
>hold the silencer on my exhaust system, I saturated the
>springs with silicone seal from one end to the other.
>Especially the hooks. Couple days ago a spring broke right
>in the middle, but stayed in place. With all the goop I had
>on it, didn't have any other choice. Silicone seal is quick
>and easy compared to safety wire and does a better job for me.
>
>Take care,
>
>john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Victor Catalanotto" <Victor(at)bellanca.us> |
I have been using Bubble Scrubs for years on my Bellanca Super Viking. You
can get it at any Home Depot or grocery store. Just spray it on and let it
sit a few seconds and they wipe right off. Also works well on removing oil.
Victor Catalanotto
1972 BSV 17-30A
Web Site www.bellanca.us
N8281R
KGPM
Mansfield, TX
Victor(at)bellanca.us
Mobile 817-925-2532
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Petty
Subject: Kolb-List: bugs-b-gone
Yes guy's that product is great but I know one better. Check these out
http://www.cajuncleanall.com/ these amazing cleaning cloths really work.
They will remove bugs using only water.
pp
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aircraft Noise |
> Zig zag bolt and nut? You must be thinking about the old style Supertrapp,
> can't imagine anyone using that.
> As far as exhaust pieces going through the prop, I used to get the
> occasional spring chunk
> However, 4 of our locals have had the curlicue expansion cone break or
> split (3 503's, 1 532) and they could hear it in flight when the exhaust
> note changed.
> Richard Pike
Hi Richard/All:
The above does not sound like your original post.
Yes, Titan Aircraft manufactured their first exhaust systems
for the 912/912S with the "zig-zag" bolt, the only hardware
retaining "all" those washers and wafers.
To reiterate what I said earlier. I discovered that a
thorough douche of silicone seal (any kind seems to work,
not necessarily high temp) will prevent broken springs and
their related parts from going through the prop. Seems much
easier, lighter, quicker solution than all that extra
hardware and parts.
Yes, if you get enough hours on the Rotax exhaust system on
the two strokes, they will eventually fatigue crack,
especially in the neck of the system. Added weight, in the
form of additional beef up, i.e., support between the neck
space, will help them last longer.
Your previous post made it sound like entire exhaust systems
were going through the prop. Maybe, but not too frequently.
Titan came up with a good solution for their system, a nice
little twin outlet can that slips over the four exhaust
pipes, secured with four springs.
In more than 600 hours on the 912S system, I have had two
springs break. The first had nothing securing it and went
through the prop. This last one was saturated with silicone
seal, to include the hooks. It broke in the center of the
spring, but remained in position until I replaced it during
a post flight inspection.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Subject: | Re: Vamoose Logo |
Yah, but 'tain't a flyin' moose. I've been almost done for 5 years
now.................I should change something ?? Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Vamoose Logo
>
> I thought the moose looked better with the wings. :)
> Now that the gear and art work is done can we hope to hear about vamouse
> flying in the spring?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: Vamoose Logo
>
>
> >
> > On my webpage showing the Moose cartoon, and Vamoose logo, I requested
> help in smoothing out the logo to be printed on vinyl. George Alexander
> came thru for me.........again..........and made several tries at figuring
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
Sorry - did not mean to create the wrong impression.
Or as some famous somebody once mused:
"What you thought you heard was not what I thought I said."
The only thing more affected by Murphy's Law than airplanes
is communication.
Thanks John,
Richard Pike
>
>Hi Richard/All:
>
>The above does not sound like your original post.
>Your previous post made it sound like entire exhaust systems
>were going through the prop. Maybe, but not too frequently.
>Take care,
>
>john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)inebraska.com> |
Subject: | Re: Warp Drive Props |
John, that Website is for a dealer (like myself). Warp Drive itself
doesn't have a Website and Darryl isn't planning on anything soon.
If anyone is looking for a Warp Drive, I usually give listmembers a
discount. Several on this list got their props, EIS and strobes from me
over the last 6 years I've been on it.
C-ya,
J.D. Stewart
UltraFun AirSports
www.ultrafunairsports.com
>
> Check out Warp Drive's web site:
>
> http://www.warpdriveprops.com/
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
Subject: | Re: doors/windows |
>
>Bob thats what I was interested in knowing.
>I wonder if the contour of the front/windshield (it
>has an airfoil shape,) essentially creates a vacuum
>that the air is rushing to fill. Maybe a full length
>strake along the cage sill would stop some of it.
re than about 25 mph wind in my face. I can
fly with just a pair of sunglasses.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/possums@mindspring.com.09.27.2003/Seat2.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/possums@mindspring.com.09.27.2003/Seat2.jpg
I put a plug behind the seat - made of "gatorboard" - like "foam board" only
a lot stronger - with some graphics on it from Kinkos.
It keeps the wind from blowing through the back of the
plane when I fly with the windshield off. It also makes a
bubble in front of it - I suppose because the air can't go
straight back. It splits just in front of my head. I don't think
I ever get more than about 25 mph wind in my face. I can
fly with just a pair of sunglasses.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "ron wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
Subject: | looking for U.S. |
anyone around the austin tx. area have a ultrastar?
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "bryan green" <lgreen1(at)sc.rr.com> |
> John, that Website is for a dealer (like myself). Warp
> Drive itself doesn't have a Website and Darryl isn't
> planning on anything soon. If anyone is looking for a
> Warp Drive, I usually give listmembers a discount.
This is why I will buy an IVO.
Bryan Green Elgin SC
Firestar I 377 BRS
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: doors/windows |
Possums, I'll tell ya what, that bird a yours looks like the most
comfortable sittin single seat Kolb There is! I sure like the extra widt
Don Gherardini-
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy(at)lycos.com> |
Hey Guys,
On that tail weight problem of Aaron's...Did anybody ask him what the
Height of his Horizontal Stablizer at it's Leading Edge???
Although ,I haven't heard of any being TOO HIGH...
November 04, 2003 - November 16, 2003
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ep