Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-eq
November 16, 2003 - December 01, 2003
I can,t believe the moment from a 14 ft arm(from 10#)
Didn't raise suspicion that should have been solved.
Sounds like that plane came with a FREE roll of Duct Tape and maybe some bailing
wire...
Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN FSII,503
Upolstered my seat, Taping for trim paint on the Tail...it's been more work than
the seat.
---
Sometimes you just have to take the leap
and build your wings on the way down...
Gotta Fly...
http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;6413623;3807821;f?http://mocda1.com/1/c/563632/113422/313631/313631
AOL users go here: http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;6413623;3807821;f?http://mocda1.com/1/c/563632/113422/313631/313631
This offer applies to U.S. Residents Only
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Weight ??? |
I'll check.. I'll be going out to the hanger today to weight everything. I
hope my 3 misc bathroom scales do the trick. I'll try and calibrate them all
to the same before using.
I did some hops in the plane yesterday with my 'heavy' load... myself at
~215 and passenger at ~255. The empty weight according to the last W&B (from
years ago) is 535.. so total weight with fuel would be slightly over gross.
I did the hops without the tail weight. I used full up trim and noted the
after getting off the ground, I did not have more than an inch maybe two of
back stick to play with...
I did look at the flap / alieron droop. The ailerons look level with the
bottom of the wing, maybe VERY slightly drooped.. I'll get a straight edge
to it today and have a 2nd person with me to lift on the other side. However
my flaps are both drooped , the right drooped an extra 1-2 degrees over the
left. I have a left aileron trim tab bent up about 20deg if that matters to
this issue.
single occupant, the plane flys great... dual and tail weight it flys
great... but now that I know that other mk3s dont need extra tail weight
dual, I really want to fix the problem. I'll let everyone know the figures
of my new W&B after I get them today.
aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy(at)lycos.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Tail Weight ???
>
> Hey Guys,
> On that tail weight problem of Aaron's...Did anybody ask him what
the Height of his Horizontal Stablizer at it's Leading Edge???
> Although ,I haven't heard of any being TOO HIGH...
>
> I can,t believe the moment from a 14 ft arm(from 10#)
> Didn't raise suspicion that should have been solved.
>
> Sounds like that plane came with a FREE roll of Duct Tape and maybe some
bailing wire...
>
> Gotta Fly...
> Mike in MN FSII,503
> Upolstered my seat, Taping for trim paint on the Tail...it's been more
work than the seat.
>
>
> ---
> Sometimes you just have to take the leap
> and build your wings on the way down...
> Gotta Fly...
>
>
http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;6413623;3807821;f?http://mocda1.com/1/c/563632/113422/313631/313631
> AOL users go here:
http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;6413623;3807821;f?http://mocda1.com/1/c/563632/113422/313631/313631
> This offer applies to U.S. Residents Only
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: doors/windows |
----- Original Message -----
From: possums
Possums:
beautiful cabin!!!!!!!!, love the red black and yellow on white. great looking
graphics,
. post moor picks.
I think you are right on the money,.
. I've decided that to fly door less in my MKIIIex I'm going to enclose the back
of the cabin. I don't want to have to mess with the windows to remove the
doors. I'll make it accessible through the window behind my head and I have baggage
doors in the sides.
Thanks again.
Uncle Craig MKIIIex912uls
Arizona
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/possums@mindspring.com.09.27.2003/Seat2.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/possums@mindspring.com.09.27.2003/Seat2.jpg
I put a plug behind the seat - made of "gatorboard" - like "foam board" only
a lot stronger - with some graphics on it from Kinkos.
It keeps the wind from blowing through the back of the
plane when I fly with the windshield off. It also makes a
bubble in front of it - I suppose because the air can't go
straight back. It splits just in front of my head. I don't think
I ever get more than about 25 mph wind in my face. I can
fly with just a pair of sunglasses.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | george murphy <geomurphy(at)direcway.com> |
Can anyone tell me what is the recommended prop diameter for a Firestar
running a 503 with a B-type gearbox? I have a 2 blade 66" Warp Drive but am
considering changing to a Three Blade Warp. What is the optimum diameter
when running a 3 blade vs. the Two Blade?? Thanks G. Murphy/ 89 Firestar/
Alpine, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | george murphy <geomurphy(at)direcway.com> |
Can anyone tell me what is the recommended prop diameter for a Firestar
running a 503 with a B-type gearbox? I have a 2 blade 66" Warp Drive but am
considering changing to a Three Blade Warp. What is the optimum diameter
when running a 3 blade vs. the Two Blade?? Thanks G. Murphy/ 89 Firestar/
Alpine, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
| Subject: | W&B / Tail Weight |
Ok.. .I did a W&B on my mk3. I did the W&B worst case: myself at 217lbs and
my father at 256lbs. That is 473lbs of beef. Here is the breakdown.. eyeball
my math #s and tell me if something looks way off:
With full gas (10 Gallons.. no passengers)
left wheel
262 lbs
+5 from L.E
right wheel
269 lbs
+5 from L.E
Tail Wheel
88 lbs
+201 from L.E
Pilot
217 lbs
-6 from L.E
Passenger
256 lbs
-6 from L.E
Gas
0lbs (included in plane weight. 10 gallons)
+18.5 from L.E
Total Weight: 1092 lbs (yes I realize this is over gross)
Total Moment: 18,615
Result Dist: 17.046
%CG: 26.635
---
I'm happy to see that this is well within the 20% - 37% limits. I redid the
math without any gas weight and the %cg barely moved. From 26.635 to 26.500.
I thought it would move more forward without the gas weight?
------
Ok.. now on to the tail weight issue. I checked to see if my ailerons and
full up flaps to be level with the bottom edge of my wing. The ailerons
looked perfect. The flaps were a good (guess) 5-6degrees drooped. I adjusted
the flaps to be exactly flush with the wing and ailerons. Without any tail
weight and doing fast taxi and hops with my 250 lbs passenger here is what I
saw: I set full up elevator, added full rpm and we started rolling. I pulled
the tail off at about 40-45. While holding close to full back elevator, we
came off the ground at about 62-65 so I leveled a few feet and started a
gentle climb at 65-67. I did a couple hops like this and a third I used one
notch of flaps to see if it lessened the roll. It did by about 20-25% I
would guess. When getting 15-20' I would level off then nose down and slowly
pull power to land. I seemed to have plenty of elevator authority to decent
and level off. Other than a longer roll than I remembered with the tail
weight, I would say the adjustment fixed my issue with having to hold too
much back stick.
I did once around the pattern at this weight and noted sluggish climb at
200-400' min on the vsi. It is not stellar performance but not that bad
considering the beef on board, full fuel, 6800' runway, and 50deg day.
Density alt was 7800'. I will likely have to pick a lighter passenger for
our 80-90deg days or fly solo.
I also did a couple laps around the pattern solo and noticed little
difference in the adjustments. It behaved as expected... climbs like a bat
out of hell :)
All in all I would say the flap adj. fixed the heavy load w full trim issue
where I needed full back pressure. Thanks to everyone that has added some
input on this.
Next on the list of items is max rpm. On climb out I see 6180-6200. I have
not done a static rpm test, but I think I should be seeing a little more
load.. maybe 6400?
Rudder tab, and maybe a more rpm and I should be golden.
Regards,
aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Tail Weight ???
>
> I'll check.. I'll be going out to the hanger today to weight everything. I
> hope my 3 misc bathroom scales do the trick. I'll try and calibrate them
all
> to the same before using.
>
> I did some hops in the plane yesterday with my 'heavy' load... myself at
> ~215 and passenger at ~255. The empty weight according to the last W&B
(from
> years ago) is 535.. so total weight with fuel would be slightly over
gross.
> I did the hops without the tail weight. I used full up trim and noted the
> after getting off the ground, I did not have more than an inch maybe two
of
> back stick to play with...
>
> I did look at the flap / alieron droop. The ailerons look level with the
> bottom of the wing, maybe VERY slightly drooped.. I'll get a straight edge
> to it today and have a 2nd person with me to lift on the other side.
However
> my flaps are both drooped , the right drooped an extra 1-2 degrees over
the
> left. I have a left aileron trim tab bent up about 20deg if that matters
to
> this issue.
>
> single occupant, the plane flys great... dual and tail weight it flys
> great... but now that I know that other mk3s dont need extra tail weight
> dual, I really want to fix the problem. I'll let everyone know the figures
> of my new W&B after I get them today.
>
> aaron
> -
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy(at)lycos.com>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: Tail Weight ???
>
>
> >
> > Hey Guys,
> > On that tail weight problem of Aaron's...Did anybody ask him
what
> the Height of his Horizontal Stablizer at it's Leading Edge???
> > Although ,I haven't heard of any being TOO HIGH...
> >
> > I can,t believe the moment from a 14 ft arm(from 10#)
> > Didn't raise suspicion that should have been solved.
> >
> > Sounds like that plane came with a FREE roll of Duct Tape and maybe some
> bailing wire...
> >
> > Gotta Fly...
> > Mike in MN FSII,503
> > Upolstered my seat, Taping for trim paint on the Tail...it's been more
> work than the seat.
> >
> >
> > ---
> > Sometimes you just have to take the leap
> > and build your wings on the way down...
> > Gotta Fly...
> >
> >
>
http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;6413623;3807821;f?http://mocda1.com/1/c/563632/113422/313631/313631
> > AOL users go here:
>
http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;6413623;3807821;f?http://mocda1.com/1/c/563632/113422/313631/313631
> > This offer applies to U.S. Residents Only
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Weight ??? |
I measured the height of the leading edge of the horiz stab. I measured from
the bottom of the horiz stab. to the bottom of the boom tube. I got 5
inches. Does this sound right?
aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy(at)lycos.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Tail Weight ???
>
> Hey Guys,
> On that tail weight problem of Aaron's...Did anybody ask him what
the Height of his Horizontal Stablizer at it's Leading Edge???
> Although ,I haven't heard of any being TOO HIGH...
>
> I can,t believe the moment from a 14 ft arm(from 10#)
> Didn't raise suspicion that should have been solved.
>
> Sounds like that plane came with a FREE roll of Duct Tape and maybe some
bailing wire...
>
> Gotta Fly...
> Mike in MN FSII,503
> Upolstered my seat, Taping for trim paint on the Tail...it's been more
work than the seat.
>
>
> ---
> Sometimes you just have to take the leap
> and build your wings on the way down...
> Gotta Fly...
>
>
http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;6413623;3807821;f?http://mocda1.com/1/c/563632/113422/313631/313631
> AOL users go here:
http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;6413623;3807821;f?http://mocda1.com/1/c/563632/113422/313631/313631
> This offer applies to U.S. Residents Only
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
| Subject: | Re: W&B / Tail Weight |
arg.... I just remembered reading about the angle of attack on on the wing
for doing a W&B. I hope like hell that all three wheels on the ground is ~
the angle of attack needed.. I think the manual said L.E 7.5 inches above
level (straight edge level from back of wing). Otherwise all my data below
may be a bit off :/
aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: W&B / Tail Weight
>
> Ok.. .I did a W&B on my mk3. I did the W&B worst case: myself at 217lbs
and
> my father at 256lbs. That is 473lbs of beef. Here is the breakdown..
eyeball
> my math #s and tell me if something looks way off:
>
> With full gas (10 Gallons.. no passengers)
>
> left wheel
> 262 lbs
> +5 from L.E
>
> right wheel
> 269 lbs
> +5 from L.E
>
> Tail Wheel
> 88 lbs
> +201 from L.E
>
> Pilot
> 217 lbs
> -6 from L.E
>
> Passenger
> 256 lbs
> -6 from L.E
>
> Gas
> 0lbs (included in plane weight. 10 gallons)
> +18.5 from L.E
>
> Total Weight: 1092 lbs (yes I realize this is over gross)
> Total Moment: 18,615
> Result Dist: 17.046
> %CG: 26.635
>
> ---
> I'm happy to see that this is well within the 20% - 37% limits. I redid
the
> math without any gas weight and the %cg barely moved. From 26.635 to
26.500.
> I thought it would move more forward without the gas weight?
>
> ------
>
> Ok.. now on to the tail weight issue. I checked to see if my ailerons and
> full up flaps to be level with the bottom edge of my wing. The ailerons
> looked perfect. The flaps were a good (guess) 5-6degrees drooped. I
adjusted
> the flaps to be exactly flush with the wing and ailerons. Without any tail
> weight and doing fast taxi and hops with my 250 lbs passenger here is what
I
> saw: I set full up elevator, added full rpm and we started rolling. I
pulled
> the tail off at about 40-45. While holding close to full back elevator, we
> came off the ground at about 62-65 so I leveled a few feet and started a
> gentle climb at 65-67. I did a couple hops like this and a third I used
one
> notch of flaps to see if it lessened the roll. It did by about 20-25% I
> would guess. When getting 15-20' I would level off then nose down and
slowly
> pull power to land. I seemed to have plenty of elevator authority to
decent
> and level off. Other than a longer roll than I remembered with the tail
> weight, I would say the adjustment fixed my issue with having to hold too
> much back stick.
>
> I did once around the pattern at this weight and noted sluggish climb at
> 200-400' min on the vsi. It is not stellar performance but not that bad
> considering the beef on board, full fuel, 6800' runway, and 50deg day.
> Density alt was 7800'. I will likely have to pick a lighter passenger for
> our 80-90deg days or fly solo.
>
> I also did a couple laps around the pattern solo and noticed little
> difference in the adjustments. It behaved as expected... climbs like a bat
> out of hell :)
>
> All in all I would say the flap adj. fixed the heavy load w full trim
issue
> where I needed full back pressure. Thanks to everyone that has added some
> input on this.
>
> Next on the list of items is max rpm. On climb out I see 6180-6200. I have
> not done a static rpm test, but I think I should be seeing a little more
> load.. maybe 6400?
>
> Rudder tab, and maybe a more rpm and I should be golden.
>
> Regards,
>
> aaron
> -
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Tail Weight ???
>
>
>
> >
> > I'll check.. I'll be going out to the hanger today to weight everything.
I
> > hope my 3 misc bathroom scales do the trick. I'll try and calibrate them
> all
> > to the same before using.
> >
> > I did some hops in the plane yesterday with my 'heavy' load... myself at
> > ~215 and passenger at ~255. The empty weight according to the last W&B
> (from
> > years ago) is 535.. so total weight with fuel would be slightly over
> gross.
> > I did the hops without the tail weight. I used full up trim and noted
the
> > after getting off the ground, I did not have more than an inch maybe two
> of
> > back stick to play with...
> >
> > I did look at the flap / alieron droop. The ailerons look level with the
> > bottom of the wing, maybe VERY slightly drooped.. I'll get a straight
edge
> > to it today and have a 2nd person with me to lift on the other side.
> However
> > my flaps are both drooped , the right drooped an extra 1-2 degrees over
> the
> > left. I have a left aileron trim tab bent up about 20deg if that matters
> to
> > this issue.
> >
> > single occupant, the plane flys great... dual and tail weight it flys
> > great... but now that I know that other mk3s dont need extra tail weight
> > dual, I really want to fix the problem. I'll let everyone know the
figures
> > of my new W&B after I get them today.
> >
> > aaron
> > -
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy(at)lycos.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Kolb-List: Tail Weight ???
> >
> >
>
> > >
> > > Hey Guys,
> > > On that tail weight problem of Aaron's...Did anybody ask him
> what
> > the Height of his Horizontal Stablizer at it's Leading Edge???
> > > Although ,I haven't heard of any being TOO HIGH...
> > >
> > > I can,t believe the moment from a 14 ft arm(from 10#)
> > > Didn't raise suspicion that should have been solved.
> > >
> > > Sounds like that plane came with a FREE roll of Duct Tape and maybe
some
> > bailing wire...
> > >
> > > Gotta Fly...
> > > Mike in MN FSII,503
> > > Upolstered my seat, Taping for trim paint on the Tail...it's been
more
> > work than the seat.
> > >
> > >
> > > ---
> > > Sometimes you just have to take the leap
> > > and build your wings on the way down...
> > > Gotta Fly...
> > >
> > >
> >
>
http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;6413623;3807821;f?http://mocda1.com/1/c/563632/113422/313631/313631
> > > AOL users go here:
> >
>
http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;6413623;3807821;f?http://mocda1.com/1/c/563632/113422/313631/313631
> > > This offer applies to U.S. Residents Only
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
| Subject: | Re: W&B / Tail Weight |
oh.. almost forgot. When I adjusted the flaps to be level with the aileron,
I needed a good bit more length in the rod. I wanted to make sure I had the
threads even on each side. I counted exactly 6 full turns from the rod
disconnected on both ends. 6 full turns seemed like plenty of threads
screwed in, but I might as well double check with people here to make sure I
dont need more.
aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: W&B / Tail Weight
>
> Ok.. .I did a W&B on my mk3. I did the W&B worst case: myself at 217lbs
and
> my father at 256lbs. That is 473lbs of beef. Here is the breakdown..
eyeball
> my math #s and tell me if something looks way off:
>
> With full gas (10 Gallons.. no passengers)
>
> left wheel
> 262 lbs
> +5 from L.E
>
> right wheel
> 269 lbs
> +5 from L.E
>
> Tail Wheel
> 88 lbs
> +201 from L.E
>
> Pilot
> 217 lbs
> -6 from L.E
>
> Passenger
> 256 lbs
> -6 from L.E
>
> Gas
> 0lbs (included in plane weight. 10 gallons)
> +18.5 from L.E
>
> Total Weight: 1092 lbs (yes I realize this is over gross)
> Total Moment: 18,615
> Result Dist: 17.046
> %CG: 26.635
>
> ---
> I'm happy to see that this is well within the 20% - 37% limits. I redid
the
> math without any gas weight and the %cg barely moved. From 26.635 to
26.500.
> I thought it would move more forward without the gas weight?
>
> ------
>
> Ok.. now on to the tail weight issue. I checked to see if my ailerons and
> full up flaps to be level with the bottom edge of my wing. The ailerons
> looked perfect. The flaps were a good (guess) 5-6degrees drooped. I
adjusted
> the flaps to be exactly flush with the wing and ailerons. Without any tail
> weight and doing fast taxi and hops with my 250 lbs passenger here is what
I
> saw: I set full up elevator, added full rpm and we started rolling. I
pulled
> the tail off at about 40-45. While holding close to full back elevator, we
> came off the ground at about 62-65 so I leveled a few feet and started a
> gentle climb at 65-67. I did a couple hops like this and a third I used
one
> notch of flaps to see if it lessened the roll. It did by about 20-25% I
> would guess. When getting 15-20' I would level off then nose down and
slowly
> pull power to land. I seemed to have plenty of elevator authority to
decent
> and level off. Other than a longer roll than I remembered with the tail
> weight, I would say the adjustment fixed my issue with having to hold too
> much back stick.
>
> I did once around the pattern at this weight and noted sluggish climb at
> 200-400' min on the vsi. It is not stellar performance but not that bad
> considering the beef on board, full fuel, 6800' runway, and 50deg day.
> Density alt was 7800'. I will likely have to pick a lighter passenger for
> our 80-90deg days or fly solo.
>
> I also did a couple laps around the pattern solo and noticed little
> difference in the adjustments. It behaved as expected... climbs like a bat
> out of hell :)
>
> All in all I would say the flap adj. fixed the heavy load w full trim
issue
> where I needed full back pressure. Thanks to everyone that has added some
> input on this.
>
> Next on the list of items is max rpm. On climb out I see 6180-6200. I have
> not done a static rpm test, but I think I should be seeing a little more
> load.. maybe 6400?
>
> Rudder tab, and maybe a more rpm and I should be golden.
>
> Regards,
>
> aaron
> -
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Tail Weight ???
>
>
>
> >
> > I'll check.. I'll be going out to the hanger today to weight everything.
I
> > hope my 3 misc bathroom scales do the trick. I'll try and calibrate them
> all
> > to the same before using.
> >
> > I did some hops in the plane yesterday with my 'heavy' load... myself at
> > ~215 and passenger at ~255. The empty weight according to the last W&B
> (from
> > years ago) is 535.. so total weight with fuel would be slightly over
> gross.
> > I did the hops without the tail weight. I used full up trim and noted
the
> > after getting off the ground, I did not have more than an inch maybe two
> of
> > back stick to play with...
> >
> > I did look at the flap / alieron droop. The ailerons look level with the
> > bottom of the wing, maybe VERY slightly drooped.. I'll get a straight
edge
> > to it today and have a 2nd person with me to lift on the other side.
> However
> > my flaps are both drooped , the right drooped an extra 1-2 degrees over
> the
> > left. I have a left aileron trim tab bent up about 20deg if that matters
> to
> > this issue.
> >
> > single occupant, the plane flys great... dual and tail weight it flys
> > great... but now that I know that other mk3s dont need extra tail weight
> > dual, I really want to fix the problem. I'll let everyone know the
figures
> > of my new W&B after I get them today.
> >
> > aaron
> > -
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy(at)lycos.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Kolb-List: Tail Weight ???
> >
> >
>
> > >
> > > Hey Guys,
> > > On that tail weight problem of Aaron's...Did anybody ask him
> what
> > the Height of his Horizontal Stablizer at it's Leading Edge???
> > > Although ,I haven't heard of any being TOO HIGH...
> > >
> > > I can,t believe the moment from a 14 ft arm(from 10#)
> > > Didn't raise suspicion that should have been solved.
> > >
> > > Sounds like that plane came with a FREE roll of Duct Tape and maybe
some
> > bailing wire...
> > >
> > > Gotta Fly...
> > > Mike in MN FSII,503
> > > Upolstered my seat, Taping for trim paint on the Tail...it's been
more
> > work than the seat.
> > >
> > >
> > > ---
> > > Sometimes you just have to take the leap
> > > and build your wings on the way down...
> > > Gotta Fly...
> > >
> > >
> >
>
http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;6413623;3807821;f?http://mocda1.com/1/c/563632/113422/313631/313631
> > > AOL users go here:
> >
>
http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;6413623;3807821;f?http://mocda1.com/1/c/563632/113422/313631/313631
> > > This offer applies to U.S. Residents Only
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: doors/windows |
----- Original Message -----
From: possums
beautiful cabin!!!!!!!!, love the red black and yellow on white. great
looking graphics,
. post moor picks.
Thanks again.
Uncle Craig MKIIIex912uls
Here are some old ones that have been posted before - and my old web page that
hasn't been updated for 4 years because I lost the password.
Most of you have seen them before and are tired of them.
Me and John been flyin this junk since 1983. I guess some of
you others have too. Nice hobby - kinda like golf - you can start when your old
and just keep dong it till you can't walk anymore.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/possums@mindspring.com.10.01.2003/Panel.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/possums@mindspring.com.09.27.2003/Seat1.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/possums@mindspring.com.09.27.2003/Seat3.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/possums@mindspring.com.02.09.2003/1Warm3.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/possums@mindspring.com.07.26.2002/thum.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/possums@mindspring.com.05.31.2002/FlyFishin.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: doors/windows |
>my old web page
http://www.mindspring.com/~possums/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Proper Prop? |
IMHO, the optimum prop diameter for a 503 w/2.58:1 is a 66" 2 blade Warp
Drive.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (42oldPoops)
>
>Can anyone tell me what is the recommended prop diameter for a Firestar
>running a 503 with a B-type gearbox? I have a 2 blade 66" Warp Drive but am
>considering changing to a Three Blade Warp. What is the optimum diameter
>when running a 3 blade vs. the Two Blade?? Thanks G. Murphy/ 89 Firestar/
>Alpine, Alabama
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
| Subject: | Re: W&B / Tail Weight |
ok... I was so erked at myself for forgetting to raise the tail to get the
right angle of attack that I drove back out to the hanger and redid the
W&B... now I have real results. I ended up with the same total weight (good
thing) but with the right angle of attack (tail raised a bunch) I lost 10
pounds in the tail and gained 10 on the mains. Here are the new numbers.
They make more sense too:
left wheel: 265 : 5"
right wheel: 276 : 5"
tail wheel: 78 : 210"
pilot: 217 : -6"
pass: 256 : -6"
Gas: in plane weight (10gal... est 60lbs) : 18.5
Total Weight (w/10gal): 1092
Total Moment: 16,655
Result Dist: 15.252
%CG: 23.83
---
ok a couple more just to know solo and light pilot limits:
solo (just my lard butt at 217. full gas): 34.00
solo (light 160 pounder. full gas): 37.17
-
These numbers look like they all add up to me. Anything look off now?
aaron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: W&B / Tail Weight
>
> arg.... I just remembered reading about the angle of attack on on the wing
> for doing a W&B. I hope like hell that all three wheels on the ground is ~
> the angle of attack needed.. I think the manual said L.E 7.5 inches above
> level (straight edge level from back of wing). Otherwise all my data below
> may be a bit off :/
>
> aaron
> -
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: W&B / Tail Weight
>
>
>
> >
> > Ok.. .I did a W&B on my mk3. I did the W&B worst case: myself at 217lbs
> and
> > my father at 256lbs. That is 473lbs of beef. Here is the breakdown..
> eyeball
> > my math #s and tell me if something looks way off:
> >
> > With full gas (10 Gallons.. no passengers)
> >
> > left wheel
> > 262 lbs
> > +5 from L.E
> >
> > right wheel
> > 269 lbs
> > +5 from L.E
> >
> > Tail Wheel
> > 88 lbs
> > +201 from L.E
> >
> > Pilot
> > 217 lbs
> > -6 from L.E
> >
> > Passenger
> > 256 lbs
> > -6 from L.E
> >
> > Gas
> > 0lbs (included in plane weight. 10 gallons)
> > +18.5 from L.E
> >
> > Total Weight: 1092 lbs (yes I realize this is over gross)
> > Total Moment: 18,615
> > Result Dist: 17.046
> > %CG: 26.635
> >
> > ---
> > I'm happy to see that this is well within the 20% - 37% limits. I redid
> the
> > math without any gas weight and the %cg barely moved. From 26.635 to
> 26.500.
> > I thought it would move more forward without the gas weight?
> >
> > ------
> >
> > Ok.. now on to the tail weight issue. I checked to see if my ailerons
and
> > full up flaps to be level with the bottom edge of my wing. The ailerons
> > looked perfect. The flaps were a good (guess) 5-6degrees drooped. I
> adjusted
> > the flaps to be exactly flush with the wing and ailerons. Without any
tail
> > weight and doing fast taxi and hops with my 250 lbs passenger here is
what
> I
> > saw: I set full up elevator, added full rpm and we started rolling. I
> pulled
> > the tail off at about 40-45. While holding close to full back elevator,
we
> > came off the ground at about 62-65 so I leveled a few feet and started a
> > gentle climb at 65-67. I did a couple hops like this and a third I used
> one
> > notch of flaps to see if it lessened the roll. It did by about 20-25% I
> > would guess. When getting 15-20' I would level off then nose down and
> slowly
> > pull power to land. I seemed to have plenty of elevator authority to
> decent
> > and level off. Other than a longer roll than I remembered with the tail
> > weight, I would say the adjustment fixed my issue with having to hold
too
> > much back stick.
> >
> > I did once around the pattern at this weight and noted sluggish climb at
> > 200-400' min on the vsi. It is not stellar performance but not that bad
> > considering the beef on board, full fuel, 6800' runway, and 50deg day.
> > Density alt was 7800'. I will likely have to pick a lighter passenger
for
> > our 80-90deg days or fly solo.
> >
> > I also did a couple laps around the pattern solo and noticed little
> > difference in the adjustments. It behaved as expected... climbs like a
bat
> > out of hell :)
> >
> > All in all I would say the flap adj. fixed the heavy load w full trim
> issue
> > where I needed full back pressure. Thanks to everyone that has added
some
> > input on this.
> >
> > Next on the list of items is max rpm. On climb out I see 6180-6200. I
have
> > not done a static rpm test, but I think I should be seeing a little more
> > load.. maybe 6400?
> >
> > Rudder tab, and maybe a more rpm and I should be golden.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > aaron
> > -
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Tail Weight ???
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I'll check.. I'll be going out to the hanger today to weight
everything.
> I
> > > hope my 3 misc bathroom scales do the trick. I'll try and calibrate
them
> > all
> > > to the same before using.
> > >
> > > I did some hops in the plane yesterday with my 'heavy' load... myself
at
> > > ~215 and passenger at ~255. The empty weight according to the last W&B
> > (from
> > > years ago) is 535.. so total weight with fuel would be slightly over
> > gross.
> > > I did the hops without the tail weight. I used full up trim and noted
> the
> > > after getting off the ground, I did not have more than an inch maybe
two
> > of
> > > back stick to play with...
> > >
> > > I did look at the flap / alieron droop. The ailerons look level with
the
> > > bottom of the wing, maybe VERY slightly drooped.. I'll get a straight
> edge
> > > to it today and have a 2nd person with me to lift on the other side.
> > However
> > > my flaps are both drooped , the right drooped an extra 1-2 degrees
over
> > the
> > > left. I have a left aileron trim tab bent up about 20deg if that
matters
> > to
> > > this issue.
> > >
> > > single occupant, the plane flys great... dual and tail weight it flys
> > > great... but now that I know that other mk3s dont need extra tail
weight
> > > dual, I really want to fix the problem. I'll let everyone know the
> figures
> > > of my new W&B after I get them today.
> > >
> > > aaron
> > > -
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy(at)lycos.com>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: Kolb-List: Tail Weight ???
> > >
> > >
> >
> > > >
> > > > Hey Guys,
> > > > On that tail weight problem of Aaron's...Did anybody ask
him
> > what
> > > the Height of his Horizontal Stablizer at it's Leading Edge???
> > > > Although ,I haven't heard of any being TOO HIGH...
> > > >
> > > > I can,t believe the moment from a 14 ft arm(from 10#)
> > > > Didn't raise suspicion that should have been solved.
> > > >
> > > > Sounds like that plane came with a FREE roll of Duct Tape and maybe
> some
> > > bailing wire...
> > > >
> > > > Gotta Fly...
> > > > Mike in MN FSII,503
> > > > Upolstered my seat, Taping for trim paint on the Tail...it's been
> more
> > > work than the seat.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ---
> > > > Sometimes you just have to take the leap
> > > > and build your wings on the way down...
> > > > Gotta Fly...
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;6413623;3807821;f?http://mocda1.com/1/c/563632/113422/313631/313631
> > > > AOL users go here:
> > >
> >
>
http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;6413623;3807821;f?http://mocda1.com/1/c/563632/113422/313631/313631
> > > > This offer applies to U.S. Residents Only
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Ultra-Com helmet for sale |
I am selling an ultra-com helmet and patch cord on Ebay for the widow of a
club member who was killed in a crash a few weeks back. It's like new if anyone
needs a helmet, sorry to advertise here but it's a great deal if anyone needs
one and the funds go to his wife. Other club members sold most of his other
stuff and I volunteered to sell this for them on ebay. Here is the link, bidding
starts at $150.00
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&category=26436&
item=2443418125
thanks
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Weight ??? |
>
> I measured the height of the leading edge of the horiz stab. I measured
from
> the bottom of the horiz stab. to the bottom of the boom tube. I got 5
> inches. Does this sound right?
>
> aaron
Yep Aaron, That sounds about right.
Denny Rowe, Mk- 3 -90, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Weight ??? |
I did some searching through the archives and I am a bit confused about what
raising the leading edge of the horiz stab. does? When I measured mine today
I looked up the drawings in the plans and noted that a raised LE is not the
standard configuration. The leading edge is a good bit higher than the
trailing edge. The bottom of the leading edge is ~5inched to the bottom of
the boom. I would guess 2/3rds up the boom vs. the standard centered angle.
Could this have some to do with the minimized up elevator I see at heavy 2
person loads? Moving the flaps to a flat with the bottom of the wing
position definitely helped cut down the back pressure needed on climbout,
but it did little for the amount of elevator left on climb (maybe an inch
more than needed).
Aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Tail Weight ???
>
> I measured the height of the leading edge of the horiz stab. I measured
from
> the bottom of the horiz stab. to the bottom of the boom tube. I got 5
> inches. Does this sound right?
>
> aaron
> -
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy(at)lycos.com>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: Tail Weight ???
>
>
> >
> > Hey Guys,
> > On that tail weight problem of Aaron's...Did anybody ask him
what
> the Height of his Horizontal Stablizer at it's Leading Edge???
> > Although ,I haven't heard of any being TOO HIGH...
> >
> > I can,t believe the moment from a 14 ft arm(from 10#)
> > Didn't raise suspicion that should have been solved.
> >
> > Sounds like that plane came with a FREE roll of Duct Tape and maybe some
> bailing wire...
> >
> > Gotta Fly...
> > Mike in MN FSII,503
> > Upolstered my seat, Taping for trim paint on the Tail...it's been more
> work than the seat.
> >
> >
> > ---
> > Sometimes you just have to take the leap
> > and build your wings on the way down...
> > Gotta Fly...
> >
> >
>
http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;6413623;3807821;f?http://mocda1.com/1/c/563632/113422/313631/313631
> > AOL users go here:
>
http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;6413623;3807821;f?http://mocda1.com/1/c/563632/113422/313631/313631
> > This offer applies to U.S. Residents Only
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: W&B / Tail Weight |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
> > > ---
> > > I'm happy to see that this is well within the 20% - 37% limits.
Aaron,
Bad news, you have an old set of Mk-3 plans with a small error in the Weight
and Balance sheet, the correct range for your aircraft is 25% to 37%, not 20
to 37.
It looks like you are a little out the front when fully loaded, but if it
flies OK, you might be alright anyhow, check with Kolb to make sure.
I have plans dated 1990 and my plans had the same error on page 43, Rev-0,
Copyright 1990.
If I loaded my airplane the same as yours, (two heavy dudes) I would also be
out the front of the envelope, our planes are very simular in balance, but
my empty weight is 475 -485 pounds. My max forward CG figures out with me at
185 pounds and a 240 pound passenger gives a CG of 25.0087%, however I have
taken as much as 250 pounds in the passenger seat and had a few notches of
elevator trim to spare.
Sincerely,
Denny Rowe, Mk-3 N616DR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
| Subject: | Re: W&B / Tail Weight |
Thanks for the info. I wont be flying nearly this heavy a load 99% of the
time. I need to keep my old man and I on a diet. Considering he is down to
250 from 300, and I'm down to 215 from 250.... a month or two and maybe we
will be confortably within the CG range.
Interesting note:
I did another W&B with 8 pounds added to the tail (I found the weight the
exowner used to be 8 not the 10-15 I thought it was). I get 25.89 % CG with
the heavy load. That puts the total load at 1102.
Considering the previous owner mentioned one of his most frequent passengers
was 260 and he is 220, I am starting to understand why he used the tail
weight.
My change of the flaps today (level with wing bottom) did make it very
flyable without holding much pressure back on climbout, but I still had only
a little extra up elevator.
BTW is 6 lbs per gallon accurate? I used the figure as it is what I
remembered from doing W&B work for GA lessons.
I know others have flown with heavier loads than me, but considering my
airport is at 6800'.... I was impressed to see ~300fpm climb with that load
(w my 618). No hot day flying at that load though! I Will have to find a
lighter passenger and/or loose some more of my fat boy.
I do need to repitch the prop. I am only seeing 6180-6200rpm on climb out. I
would like to see 6400 or so. About how much difference in rpm do you see
between static tests and climbouts (assuming climbing out at 65mph)?
aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: W&B / Tail Weight
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
> To:
> > > > ---
> > > > I'm happy to see that this is well within the 20% - 37% limits.
>
> Aaron,
> Bad news, you have an old set of Mk-3 plans with a small error in the
Weight
> and Balance sheet, the correct range for your aircraft is 25% to 37%, not
20
> to 37.
> It looks like you are a little out the front when fully loaded, but if it
> flies OK, you might be alright anyhow, check with Kolb to make sure.
> I have plans dated 1990 and my plans had the same error on page 43, Rev-0,
> Copyright 1990.
> If I loaded my airplane the same as yours, (two heavy dudes) I would also
be
> out the front of the envelope, our planes are very simular in balance, but
> my empty weight is 475 -485 pounds. My max forward CG figures out with me
at
> 185 pounds and a 240 pound passenger gives a CG of 25.0087%, however I
have
> taken as much as 250 pounds in the passenger seat and had a few notches of
> elevator trim to spare.
> Sincerely,
> Denny Rowe, Mk-3 N616DR
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tail Weight ??? |
If you have watched a Kolb MKIII in flight you would understand what's
going on. The tail rides fairly high in flight. Remember the position the
tail was in when you did the weight and balance. The horizontal stabilizer
tries to seek a neutral angel of attack in this raised position and keeps
the wing in a slightly positive angle of attack. Normally we measure the
leading edge in relation to the top of the fuselage tube were the plans call
for the top edge to be even with the top of the tube. Remember you now have
the flaps and the ailerons at the starting point for final tuning of your
airplane. You need to experiment with the flap and aileron setting to get
the best overall performance and feel. You May find that the flaps and
ailerons need to be raised a bit more to keep from flying with the elevator
deflected upward and causing drag when flying heavy. Some people have found
that lowering the leading edge of the horizontal stabilizer an inch from
plans helps but you want to try flaps/ailerons first. Be careful with that
over gross flying. I wouldn't recommend it in rough air and be happy that
your not 10lbs heaver (tail weight) when your already over gross.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Tail Weight ???
>
> I did some searching through the archives and I am a bit confused about
what
> raising the leading edge of the horiz stab. does? When I measured mine
today
> I looked up the drawings in the plans and noted that a raised LE is not
the
> standard configuration. The leading edge is a good bit higher than the
> trailing edge. The bottom of the leading edge is ~5inched to the bottom of
> the boom. I would guess 2/3rds up the boom vs. the standard centered
angle.
>
> Could this have some to do with the minimized up elevator I see at heavy 2
> person loads? Moving the flaps to a flat with the bottom of the wing
> position definitely helped cut down the back pressure needed on climbout,
> but it did little for the amount of elevator left on climb (maybe an inch
> more than needed).
>
> Aaron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
| Subject: | Re: W&B / Tail Weight |
you mention your empty weight is ~485... mine is 559. What engine? That is a
big difference. 559 is no gas, but I keep my headsets, com etc in the
cockpit (few pounds at most). It does have a larger battery in it though.
aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: W&B / Tail Weight
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
> To:
> > > > ---
> > > > I'm happy to see that this is well within the 20% - 37% limits.
>
> Aaron,
> Bad news, you have an old set of Mk-3 plans with a small error in the
Weight
> and Balance sheet, the correct range for your aircraft is 25% to 37%, not
20
> to 37.
> It looks like you are a little out the front when fully loaded, but if it
> flies OK, you might be alright anyhow, check with Kolb to make sure.
> I have plans dated 1990 and my plans had the same error on page 43, Rev-0,
> Copyright 1990.
> If I loaded my airplane the same as yours, (two heavy dudes) I would also
be
> out the front of the envelope, our planes are very simular in balance, but
> my empty weight is 475 -485 pounds. My max forward CG figures out with me
at
> 185 pounds and a 240 pound passenger gives a CG of 25.0087%, however I
have
> taken as much as 250 pounds in the passenger seat and had a few notches of
> elevator trim to spare.
> Sincerely,
> Denny Rowe, Mk-3 N616DR
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "garvelink" <link(at)cdc.net> |
looking for a kolb ultrastar to rebuild preferably around the kentucky Georgia
tennessee alabama area
Steve Garvelink
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | do your Facets ever stop running? |
| From: | Jim Gerken <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
11/17/2003 07:07:10 AM
For you guys running Facet pumps: Do these pumps quit when they come up to
pressure, or do they keep clicking away, with a slightly different sound?
I thought they'd actually stop clicking once they had reached full
pressure. I have a Honda tractor and that's how that works. It pumps a
bunch of clicks, slows down the rate of the clicks and finally stops once
it has reached pressure. Then it clicks as needed to maintain pressure.
Facets must be different.
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rex Rodebush" <rrodebush(at)tema.net> |
I remember someone from the factory (not sure who) stated that the Mark III Xtra
flew great without the doors. Don't know if the back was covered or not. Might
be worth a call to TNK to get their comments.
Rex Rodebush
............ I've decided that to fly door less in my MKIIIex I'm going to enclose
the back
of the cabin. I don't want to have to mess with the windows to remove the
doors. I'll make it accessible through the window behind my head and I have baggage
doors in the sides.
Thanks again.
Uncle Craig MKIIIex912uls
Arizona
.....................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: W&B / Tail Weight |
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: W&B / Tail Weight
>
> you mention your empty weight is ~485... mine is 559. What engine? That is
a
> big difference. 559 is no gas, but I keep my headsets, com etc in the
> cockpit (few pounds at most). It does have a larger battery in it though.
>
> aaron
> -
My empy weight is officially 475 pounds, but I have since added headsets and
intercom along with 800-6 Mungo tires and tubes which I estimate to have
brought it up to 485.
I have a 2SI 690L-70 engine which is the same all up weight as a 582 rotax
with a B gearbox. My battery fits in the stock location with room to spare,
some day when I have $100 burning a hole in my pocket, I would like to buy
one of those super light batteries for her.
I built with total attention to weight savings, and made my own Gull wing
doors with aluminum frames. Since my doors are only .090 lexan and they
eliminated the .125 thich windshield I saved a little weight there also.
I also built a full rear enclosure using 1/16" lexan. All my lexan is
attatched with plastic P-clamps.
No carpeted floor or ectra interior trim, just a pretty basic package
overall.
I'll try to send you a photo.
Sincerely,
Denny Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
In more than 600 hours on the 912S system, I have had two
springs break. The first had nothing securing it and went
through the prop. This last one was saturated with silicone
seal, to include the hooks. It broke in the center of the
spring, but remained in position until I replaced it during
a post flight inspection.
Take care,
john h
when puting on the springs i have used the safty wire, silicone, and also put a
piece of tie wire from center of spring to center of spring with enough tention
as to deflect the springs slightly out of colum. that was to keep down the
movement... as of the last inspection. i could see no visible wear on the springs
or the loop they hook to.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | fly with doors off |
It could
make a difference. Any M3X drivers flying with the
doors off??
not sure on the extra but on my clasic there is an area between the doors and the
bulkhead behind my head.... i just leave this area open and get enough air.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | "B" box running 3 blade Warp? |
| From: | Jim Gerken <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
11/17/2003 11:11:50 AM
>Can anyone tell me what is the recommended prop diameter for a Firestar
>running a 503 with a B-type gearbox? I have a 2 blade 66" Warp Drive but
am
>considering changing to a Three Blade Warp. What is the optimum diameter
>when running a 3 blade vs. the Two Blade?? Thanks G. Murphy/ 89 Firestar/
>Alpine, Alabama
George,
If I am not mistaken, a "B" box will not allow you to run a Warp 3-blade.
The 3-blade Warp being heavier, has a rotational inertia value which
greatly exceeds Rotax requirements for the "B" box. If you want to run
three blades, your choices are Ivo and Powerfin. I suppose another
alternative is to trade up to a "C" box.
Jim Gerken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Facets stop running ? Of Course they do !!! |
> Hi all ...been watching this thread for a while ... I ran
> a VW Shop for many years and I must say I had a REAL
> problem with FACET Fuel Pumps They would quit and strand
> my customers on a regular Basis !!! (Other shops had
> failures also)Made me look pretty bad .... I sure hope
> they have improved since then .... Just my 2 cents
> ...Dave
Hi Dave/All:
Wow! That sounds bad.
I on the other hand have had excellent service with Facet
pumps for the last 20 years, whether they are sold under the
Facet, Purolator, or whatever name. I use them as back up
on a 351W powered boat, as well as, my airplane.
One thing I found out about the Facet was it does not like
salt water. The Facet in the boat did not last long because
of salt water corrosion. Remedy was find a dry place to
mount it. Then keep it doused with some kind of
anticorrosive spray. Maybe that is what the problem was
with your application.
In the airplane, out of the weather, the Facet provides good
reliable service for me.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
"Aaron Hollingsworth" wrote:
<< I just remembered reading about the angle of attack on on the wing
for doing a W&B. I hope like hell that all three wheels on the ground is ~
the angle of attack needed.. >>
Aaron -
You'll have to re-do your weight & balance.
For calculating W&B, the wing must be at the FLIGHT angle of attack.
For a Mark-3, this is 9 degrees.
To do this on the ground, the leading edge must be 7.5 inches higher than
the trailing edge. You need to raise your tail a bit to get this angle.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, Verner-powered in
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
Thanks for the info. I redid it at the right AOA. See later posts for the
results.
regards,
aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
Subject: Kolb-List: Mark-3 W&B
>
> "Aaron Hollingsworth" wrote:
> << I just remembered reading about the angle of attack on on the wing
> for doing a W&B. I hope like hell that all three wheels on the ground is ~
> the angle of attack needed.. >>
>
> Aaron -
> You'll have to re-do your weight & balance.
> For calculating W&B, the wing must be at the FLIGHT angle of attack.
> For a Mark-3, this is 9 degrees.
> To do this on the ground, the leading edge must be 7.5 inches higher than
> the trailing edge. You need to raise your tail a bit to get this angle.
> Dennis Kirby
> Mark-3, Verner-powered in
> Cedar Crest, NM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Facets stop running ? Of Course they do !!! |
> I agree. I put one on for a replacement for a $200.00
> Honda car fuel pump and it lasted for app 100 miles
> before it quit. I also had one on my VW powered MKIII
> that I used a priming/backup pump over three years it had
> maybe 3 hours total time on it when it quit. I will
> NEVER use a Facet pump on a airplane as a primary pump.
>
> Rick Neilsen Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
Rick/All:
Either I am doing something right and you all are doing
something wrong, or maybe you are having "Hauck Luck" and
got that one out of a million that crap out.
I don't know about swapping one for a $200 Honda
replacement, or letting it sit idle for three years (three
hours operation in three years is idle). Mine sees a lot of
use and keeps on ticking. The last one I replaced is still
good. Plan to use it in another application on my
Dodge/Cummins. The only reason I swapped it out was the
2000 Alaska flight.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Facets stop running ? Of Course they do !!! |
John
I'm sure there are bad pumps in any brand but I have personally seen two
Facet failures in different applications and that concerns me. The car in
Michigan may have seen some salt since they spread that crap all over our
roads in the winter. Trust me the Facet in my airplane hasn't been exposed
to very much of it. I replaced the airplane pump with another Facet because
it is so cheep and I only use it for back up and priming the carbs but I
don't feel comfortable using one as a primary pump. It's always possible I'm
doing something wrong but short of hooking them up backwards, feeding them
dirty fuel, and yes salty water there isn't much you can do wrong. And now I
hear I'm not the only one.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Facets stop running ? Of Course they do !!!
>
>
> > I agree. I put one on for a replacement for a $200.00
> > Honda car fuel pump and it lasted for app 100 miles
> > before it quit. I also had one on my VW powered MKIII
> > that I used a priming/backup pump over three years it had
> > maybe 3 hours total time on it when it quit. I will
> > NEVER use a Facet pump on a airplane as a primary pump.
> >
> > Rick Neilsen Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
>
> Rick/All:
>
> Either I am doing something right and you all are doing
> something wrong, or maybe you are having "Hauck Luck" and
> got that one out of a million that crap out.
>
> I don't know about swapping one for a $200 Honda
> replacement, or letting it sit idle for three years (three
> hours operation in three years is idle). Mine sees a lot of
> use and keeps on ticking. The last one I replaced is still
> good. Plan to use it in another application on my
> Dodge/Cummins. The only reason I swapped it out was the
> 2000 Alaska flight.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | the fuel pump deal |
A while back someone from this list asked me about the pumps that NAPA sells and
in order to help the person with that particular application I had to phone
the tech line and ask a pro.
Don't remember what the question was but did learn something I didn't know.
Most electric fuel pumps require a constant flow of fuel through them to cool the
coils. Otherwise the unit over heats and causes failure.
That's why cars have a fuel return system. It keeps a constant flow of fuel through
the pump regardless of fuel consumption.
for what it's worth.
pp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Facets stop running ? Of Course they do !!! |
> I replaced the airplane pump with another Facet because
> it is so cheep and I only use it for back up and priming the carbs but I
> don't feel comfortable using one as a primary pump. And now I
> hear I'm not the only one.
>
> Rick Neilsen
Rick/All:
Maybe it would be a good idea for someone to check with
Aircraft Spruce, and some of the other homebuilt aircraft
parts houses that sell this pump. If there is a problem, we
need to know about it. I use my Facet as boost/backup pump
should the engine driven pump on the 912S go belly up on me.
If there is a chance of the Facet now performing when
asked at that urgent time, then I need another pump with
more reliability.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BMWBikeCrz(at)aol.com |
I want to know more about the pump on vamoose ... Rotary's are pretty good
but must NOT be left Idle or allow water ingestion ...
seizes up the rollers ... I know I need a new pump on my K-75 Motorcycle
...Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Happy idiot with facet pump |
For what it's worth, I have 112 hours on 319DM (912) and I run the facet
about half the time. Test it in preflight, use it to start, turn it off to
test the main pump during warmup, and back on to takeoff. I usually turn it
off above 1000 feet which is about half the time I've been flying, but
sometimes I forget. Still ticking like a champ. Maybe there's just a bad
one now and then, but I took my direction from the fact that everybody
sells them, and the guys I trusted were using them. So far so good. That's
why I keep reading the list. And throw in my two cents worth from time to
time. If (when?) it fails, I'll let y'all know.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Facets stop running ? Of Course they do !!!
>
> John
>
> I'm sure there are bad pumps in any brand but I have personally seen two
> Facet failures in different applications and that concerns me. The car in
> Michigan may have seen some salt since they spread that crap all over our
> roads in the winter. Trust me the Facet in my airplane hasn't been exposed
> to very much of it. I replaced the airplane pump with another Facet
because
> it is so cheep and I only use it for back up and priming the carbs but I
> don't feel comfortable using one as a primary pump. It's always possible
I'm
> doing something wrong but short of hooking them up backwards, feeding them
> dirty fuel, and yes salty water there isn't much you can do wrong. And now
I
> hear I'm not the only one.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Facets stop running ? Of Course they do !!!
>
>
> >
> >
> > > I agree. I put one on for a replacement for a $200.00
> > > Honda car fuel pump and it lasted for app 100 miles
> > > before it quit. I also had one on my VW powered MKIII
> > > that I used a priming/backup pump over three years it had
> > > maybe 3 hours total time on it when it quit. I will
> > > NEVER use a Facet pump on a airplane as a primary pump.
> > >
> > > Rick Neilsen Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
> >
> > Rick/All:
> >
> > Either I am doing something right and you all are doing
> > something wrong, or maybe you are having "Hauck Luck" and
> > got that one out of a million that crap out.
> >
> > I don't know about swapping one for a $200 Honda
> > replacement, or letting it sit idle for three years (three
> > hours operation in three years is idle). Mine sees a lot of
> > use and keeps on ticking. The last one I replaced is still
> > good. Plan to use it in another application on my
> > Dodge/Cummins. The only reason I swapped it out was the
> > 2000 Alaska flight.
> >
> > Take care,
> >
> > john h
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BMWBikeCrz(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ultra-Com helmet for sale |
I love my ultra Comm !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Well ya got me mumbling to myself .....ASC lists 4 part numbers for the
solid state
type and 4 for the interrupter (boost) type. It doesn't seem right to
lump them all
together for reliability. I Myself use the low 2-4 pounder SS followed
by a regulator as my
antique carb reputedly doesn't like much more than gravity. I would guess
that the different pressures are decided by internal relief.
Has anyone popped one open or actually discovered what the failure cause
was?
Coil? spring? obstruction? corrosion? Inquiring minds want to know.
-BB , only one of 'em but then only one heart too
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Facets stop running ? Of Course they do !!! |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com.PLING_QUERY.Subject.has.exclamation.mark.and.question.mark |
(0.1 points)
Subject has exclamation mark and question mark
If a facet pump is connected in series with the mechanical pump, will it
still work if the mechanical pump diaphragm ruptures? The reason it may
not, is the facet will pump fuel through the ruptured diaphragm, via the
pulse port, into the crankcase killing the engine.
I would suggest someone with a facet pump connected in series, take an
old mechanical pump and purposely rupture the diaphragm, install it, and
check it out. A parallel arrangement will bypass the mechanical pump and
be a surefire method of getting fuel to the carb(s) when needed the most.
Ralph
Original Firestar
16 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Craig Nelson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Craig Nelson
Subject: Gap Seal
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/vitalfx0@msn.com.1.11.17.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Craig Nelson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Craig Nelson
Subject: Firewall
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/vitalfx0@msn.com.2.11.17.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Craig Nelson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Craig Nelson
Subject: Gas Tank / Firewall
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/vitalfx0@msn.com.3.11.17.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Craig Nelson ] Fuel Tank |
Craig/All:
You said as near as you could figure you were going to have
22 fuel capacity.
Does that mean you have not pressure and/or water tested the
fuel tank?
Did you slosh it?
I water tested my fuel tank so Bro Jim could get the leaks
that showed up. During the water test, I used one gal milk
jugs to fill the tank. Took 25 or those little fellers to
fill it to the top. I could drain out all 25 of the also.
After we repaired all existing leaks, I sloshed my tank four
times (once a day for four days). With 1,952 hours on the
tank, it has leaked nary a drop. Wish I could have said
that for the Firestar tank. However, what we learned from
mistakes made on it were applied to the MK III tank.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Vamoose' pumps are rotary, as I guess you've seen on my website. They did
sit idle for a long time, but seemed to work fine when I fired the engine
before vacation. They're high pressure fuel injection pumps, and hold 45
psi just fine. I bought them from CB Performance, in Farmersville, CA about
6 years ago. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <BMWBikeCrz(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: facet
>
> I want to know more about the pump on vamoose ... Rotary's are pretty good
> but must NOT be left Idle or allow water ingestion ...
> seizes up the rollers ... I know I need a new pump on my K-75 Motorcycle
> ...Dave
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ron wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
has anyone ever built a instrument pod out of pvc plumbing fittings? was at a supply
house and took a couple of 45* fittings and played with them looks doable,,ideas
guys,my "panal" on my ultrastar as i bought it is a little on the wobbbly
side.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | fuel pump backup |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
I see nobody wants to touch this one (see below):
Ralph
If a facet pump is connected in series with the mechanical pump, will it
still work if the mechanical pump diaphragm ruptures? The reason it may
not, is the facet will pump fuel through the ruptured diaphragm, via the
pulse port, into the crankcase killing the engine.
I would suggest someone with a facet pump connected in series, take an
old mechanical pump and purposely rupture the diaphragm, install it, and
check it out, on the ground of course.
A parallel arrangement will bypass the mechanical pump and be a surefire method
of getting fuel to the carb(s) when needed the most.
Ralph
Original Firestar
16 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Pulse Pump Diaphragm Rupture |
Ralph,
Searching the list for "ruptured diaphragm", "punchered diaphragm", "broken diaphragm",
etc, I found no one reporting such a failure. This has to represent
a lot of flying hours using pulse pumps.
One reason the pulse pump is so reliable is that the diaphragm moves and infinitesimal
amount to pump the amount of fuel required by one revolution of the engine.
Also diaphragm flexure is limited by the pump housings so that the diaphragm
can not become over stressed.
The only way I can see a chance of a diaphragm rupturing is for sharp particles
to get past the fuel filter pass through the pump.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
At 05:35 PM 11/18/03 GMT, you wrote:
>
>
>I see nobody wants to touch this one (see below):
>
>Ralph
>
>If a facet pump is connected in series with the mechanical pump, will it
>still work if the mechanical pump diaphragm ruptures? The reason it may
>not, is the facet will pump fuel through the ruptured diaphragm, via the
>pulse port, into the crankcase killing the engine.
>
>I would suggest someone with a facet pump connected in series, take an
>old mechanical pump and purposely rupture the diaphragm, install it, and
>check it out, on the ground of course.
>
>A parallel arrangement will bypass the mechanical pump and be a surefire method
of getting fuel to the carb(s) when needed the most.
>
>Ralph
>Original Firestar
>16 years flying it
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel pump backup |
If the diaphragm on a primary mechanical pump ruptures isn't there a chance
that the engine will be flooded thru the pulse line even with the pumps in
parallel? When a diaphragm ruptures the pump will still try to pump and it
will be pushing against the pressure ahead from the secondary pump. The
incoming check valve will keep fuel from going back to the tank, the backup
pump will try to stop the fuel from going to the carburetor, the rout of
least resistance might be up the pulse line.
Also to answer the question do diaphragms rupture. I had a diaphragm rupture
(John will think I'm really doing something wrong now) on a mechanical pump
on my tractor last summer. In this case the fuel diluted the oil in my crank
case to the point where I saw reduced oil pressure and nothing else. The
fuel pump maintained enough pressure to keep the engine running so a back up
pump of any kind would not have helped.
I guess what I'm suggesting is do what makes you comfortable. You can't
cover every angle so as to make flying completely safe. You risk death just
getting out of bed in the morning.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: fuel pump backup
>
>
> I see nobody wants to touch this one (see below):
>
> Ralph
>
> If a facet pump is connected in series with the mechanical pump, will it
> still work if the mechanical pump diaphragm ruptures? The reason it may
> not, is the facet will pump fuel through the ruptured diaphragm, via the
> pulse port, into the crankcase killing the engine.
>
> I would suggest someone with a facet pump connected in series, take an
> old mechanical pump and purposely rupture the diaphragm, install it, and
> check it out, on the ground of course.
>
> A parallel arrangement will bypass the mechanical pump and be a surefire
method of getting fuel to the carb(s) when needed the most.
>
> Ralph
> Original Firestar
> 16 years flying it
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel pump backup |
I had a Challenger1 with a facet in series. Warning to people with this
setup, the facet can overpressure the line when the manual is working. I
thought it would be a good idea to use the facet on top of manual for
climbout.. Until I noticed a substantial amount of fuel leaving the carb
overflow line splattering my tail. I luckily never had the manual pump fail
in that setup. I for sure wouldn't trust it.
aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: fuel pump backup
>
> If the diaphragm on a primary mechanical pump ruptures isn't there a
chance
> that the engine will be flooded thru the pulse line even with the pumps in
> parallel? When a diaphragm ruptures the pump will still try to pump and it
> will be pushing against the pressure ahead from the secondary pump. The
> incoming check valve will keep fuel from going back to the tank, the
backup
> pump will try to stop the fuel from going to the carburetor, the rout of
> least resistance might be up the pulse line.
>
> Also to answer the question do diaphragms rupture. I had a diaphragm
rupture
> (John will think I'm really doing something wrong now) on a mechanical
pump
> on my tractor last summer. In this case the fuel diluted the oil in my
crank
> case to the point where I saw reduced oil pressure and nothing else. The
> fuel pump maintained enough pressure to keep the engine running so a back
up
> pump of any kind would not have helped.
>
> I guess what I'm suggesting is do what makes you comfortable. You can't
> cover every angle so as to make flying completely safe. You risk death
just
> getting out of bed in the morning.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: fuel pump backup
>
>
> >
> >
> > I see nobody wants to touch this one (see below):
> >
> > Ralph
> >
> > If a facet pump is connected in series with the mechanical pump, will it
> > still work if the mechanical pump diaphragm ruptures? The reason it may
> > not, is the facet will pump fuel through the ruptured diaphragm, via the
> > pulse port, into the crankcase killing the engine.
> >
> > I would suggest someone with a facet pump connected in series, take an
> > old mechanical pump and purposely rupture the diaphragm, install it, and
> > check it out, on the ground of course.
> >
> > A parallel arrangement will bypass the mechanical pump and be a surefire
> method of getting fuel to the carb(s) when needed the most.
> >
> > Ralph
> > Original Firestar
> > 16 years flying it
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pulse Pump Diaphragm Rupture |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
Jack, I agree with you about the reliability of the mechanical pulse
pump. If they are that reliable, why the need for a backup? The point I
was making in the last post, was that a series-connected facet backup
pump may not work as intended in the event of a ruptured diaphragm.
In the 16.9 years flying the Firestar, I have had one pump failure and
that was because I replaced a good one with one that had a cracked
diaphragm (aftermarket product different from the mylar ones shipped with
new Mikuni pumps - about 12 years ago). Of course, I didn't know it was
bad when I replaced it, but I soon found out during the takeoff (engine
ran, but rough and kicking me in the back on climbout). I replaced it
with the old one and it ran fine the rest of the day.
Ralph
Original Firestar
16.9 years flying it
writes:
>
> Ralph,
>
> Searching the list for "ruptured diaphragm", "punchered diaphragm",
> "broken diaphragm", etc, I found no one reporting such a failure.
> This has to represent a lot of flying hours using pulse pumps.
>
> One reason the pulse pump is so reliable is that the diaphragm moves
> and infinitesimal amount to pump the amount of fuel required by one
> revolution of the engine. Also diaphragm flexure is limited by the
> pump housings so that the diaphragm can not become over stressed.
>
> The only way I can see a chance of a diaphragm rupturing is for
> sharp particles to get past the fuel filter pass through the pump.
>
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
>
> At 05:35 PM 11/18/03 GMT, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >I see nobody wants to touch this one (see below):
> >
> >Ralph
> >
> >If a facet pump is connected in series with the mechanical pump,
> will it
> >still work if the mechanical pump diaphragm ruptures? The reason
> it may
> >not, is the facet will pump fuel through the ruptured diaphragm,
> via the
> >pulse port, into the crankcase killing the engine.
> >
> >I would suggest someone with a facet pump connected in series, take
> an
> >old mechanical pump and purposely rupture the diaphragm, install
> it, and
> >check it out, on the ground of course.
> >
> >A parallel arrangement will bypass the mechanical pump and be a
> surefire method of getting fuel to the carb(s) when needed the
> most.
> >
> >Ralph
> >Original Firestar
> >16 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
-----
>
> Kolbers,
> My plans don't show any dimensions for the location of the hole that is to
be drilled in the lower part of the tailpost for the fly wire. Can anyone
give me the size and location of this hole?
> Also not shown are the distance between the SS angle brackets that rivet
to the fuselage tube. All it says is to allow some distance so the bracket
doesn't "bind" but how much?
>
> thanks
>
> pp
>
Paul,
I have about 1 1/2 "thick AN washer" thicknesses between the horizontal
stabilizer bracket and the boom tube brackets. You want the stabilizer
bracket centered between them when your elevator is in the neutral position,
so that when the elevator moves up and down the stabilizer has a little room
to move fore and aft without binding on the brackets. Check what length bolt
your plans call for and test fit the brackets on the stabilizer, when all
the hardware is installed through the brackets and the nut is tightened with
a couple of threads showing, you can measure the space you have. Make sure
your elevator pivot is not binding and is assembled in line with the piano
hinges.
I hope this helps, I hesitate to give you exact figures as mine is a Mk-3
and could have small differances from your Kolbra.
Denny Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | MK III Manners - Yaw Trim |
Hi Gang:
Was climbing out to the east, headed for Ted Cowan's flyin
last Saturday. Was surpassed to see the slip/skid indicator
a half ball out of trim. Since the last major modification
of my rudder trim system a couple years ago I have had nice
neutral pedals and trim ball centered during cruise and
climb, for the most part.
I decided to land at Tallassee, AL, the next airport to
check out my rudder trim tab. About that time I noticed I
had failed to secure the left door. In flight the airstrip
keeps the doors closed except an inch or so at the rear.
With the door securely closed, the slip/skid indicator ball
was centered and my rudder pedals were neutral once again.
Still learning about my airplane,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | MK III Manners - Yaw Trim |
Hi Gang:
This:
"In flight the airstrip keeps the doors closed.............."
Should be correct to read:
"In flight the airstream keeps the doors closed.............."
Sorry about that,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Craig Nelson ] Fuel Tank |
John. Thanks for the info, I don't think many folks who make aluminum tanks think
of that, and Yes I did pressure the tank filled it with a hose though. then
pressured it for 2 days. The guy that did the welding, helped me do the math
on the volume. I trust his welding. he makes radiators for and fuel systems for
Indy cars, Sill Medesty real nice guy.
thanks
Uncle Craig MkIIIex912uls
Arizona
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: [ Craig Nelson ] Fuel Tank
Craig/All:
You said as near as you could figure you were going to have
22 fuel capacity.
Does that mean you have not pressure and/or water tested the
fuel tank?
Did you slosh it?
I water tested my fuel tank so Bro Jim could get the leaks
that showed up. During the water test, I used one gal milk
jugs to fill the tank. Took 25 or those little fellers to
fill it to the top. I could drain out all 25 of the also.
After we repaired all existing leaks, I sloshed my tank four
times (once a day for four days). With 1,952 hours on the
tank, it has leaked nary a drop. Wish I could have said
that for the Firestar tank. However, what we learned from
mistakes made on it were applied to the MK III tank.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WILLIAM D BRADSHAW <PIPERJ5(at)shtc.net> |
| Subject: | 800x6 Tires on Azusa rims |
Gang
Not long ago I put 800x6 Titan Turf Glide tries & tubes
on my Firestar. The valve stems turned up a little bit but seemed ok.
The other day I wanted to fly, and there she sat
in the shop with a flat tire. Yep the valve stem pulled out.
Found out the 800x6 tube valve stem is offset about 3/4 inch
to the outboard side. The Azusa valve stem holes are in the
center.
I measured over 3/4 inch and drilled a 3/8 th inch hole
for the valve stem. Now it lays parallel to the rim and is
closer to the outside. Makes it easier to get at with the air
nozzle.
I realigned the rim halves so there is only half of the old
hole open to expose the tube. With such low tire pressure
I don't think this will be a problem.
I'm sure glad it didn't go flat while I was flying. Bet that big
tire won't roll good flat !!
If you have 800x6 tires on Azuza rims might want to check
that valve stem.
Danny Bradshaw
McBee, South Carolina
Firestar 503 200 hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | 2SI bows out, another victom of our legal system |
> I guess what I'm suggesting is do what makes you comfortable. You can't
> cover every angle so as to make flying completely safe. You risk death
just
> getting out of bed in the morning.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
Rick and others,
Thought your line here was a good intro for this post.
I have been holding this news for a couple weeks until I was sure it had
been released to the press.
South Carolina based Two Stroke International, the maker of my 690L and the
only American company manufacturing light aircraft 2 cycle engines has
decided to withdraw from the aviation market. The chief reason is because of
a lawsuit filed by a builder and pilot of a homebuilt aircraft who was
paralyzed when his engine allegedly quit and he failed to fly the airplane.
Now because of one mans refusal to accept responsibility for the risks
involved in his chosen recreation, no one will be able to purchase new
American made 2SI engines.
Another chapter in the exportation of American industry brought to you by
the upstanding trial lawyers of our once greater country.
All of us must understand that nobody has ever put a gun to our heads and
forced us to build these contraptions, nor has the manufacturer of any
engine forced us to install their engine. We do all this of our own volition
and as such should assume all the risks that go along with this sport.
If you are unwilling to accept the fact that you or one of your passengers
may someday receive horrible bodily harm or worse due to the operation of
your little aircraft or other vehicles, and if you can't accept the fact
that you are the single reason this harm may come to you, PLEASE sell your
aircraft, car, motorcycle, boat, etc right now and never look back.
The rest of us need you out of this sport before we wind up having only one
$20,000 Chinese built choice when it comes time to buy a new engine for our
airplanes.
Sincerly,
Dennis Rowe, Mk-3 N616DR, Leechburg, PA
Do definitly archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI bows out, another victom of our legal system |
> PLEASE sell your aircraft, car, motorcycle, boat, etc
> right now and never look back.
Not gonna help. We are moving toward the Japanese style of
justice wherein if you are in a particular place/situation at a specific
time and caused some grievious harm to another, you will be held
liable because if you hadn't been there nothing would have
happened. This scenario also applies to inanimate objects....if the
2SI hadn't been there all would be well.
As for lawyers...just watch what they do to medical malpractice
insurance costs....heard malparctice premiums in the state of OK
will run up 80% next year to be followed the year after by another
80%.......
Just shoot the bastards.......(Hello carnivore!)
J.Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI bows out, another victom of our legal system |
I read about 2si... yet another reason added to many that I hate our legal
system. :/ I've heard some pretty good opinions of 2si motors. It is a
shame. It reminds me of the guy that build and flew a Team airbike into a
swamp in florida.. no training. Hurt himself and now owns the airbike
design. Real shame.
aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: 2SI bows out, another victom of our legal system
>
>
> > I guess what I'm suggesting is do what makes you comfortable. You can't
> > cover every angle so as to make flying completely safe. You risk death
> just
> > getting out of bed in the morning.
> >
> > Rick Neilsen
> > Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
>
>
> Rick and others,
> Thought your line here was a good intro for this post.
> I have been holding this news for a couple weeks until I was sure it had
> been released to the press.
>
> South Carolina based Two Stroke International, the maker of my 690L and
the
> only American company manufacturing light aircraft 2 cycle engines has
> decided to withdraw from the aviation market. The chief reason is because
of
> a lawsuit filed by a builder and pilot of a homebuilt aircraft who was
> paralyzed when his engine allegedly quit and he failed to fly the
airplane.
> Now because of one mans refusal to accept responsibility for the risks
> involved in his chosen recreation, no one will be able to purchase new
> American made 2SI engines.
> Another chapter in the exportation of American industry brought to you by
> the upstanding trial lawyers of our once greater country.
> All of us must understand that nobody has ever put a gun to our heads and
> forced us to build these contraptions, nor has the manufacturer of any
> engine forced us to install their engine. We do all this of our own
volition
> and as such should assume all the risks that go along with this sport.
> If you are unwilling to accept the fact that you or one of your passengers
> may someday receive horrible bodily harm or worse due to the operation of
> your little aircraft or other vehicles, and if you can't accept the fact
> that you are the single reason this harm may come to you, PLEASE sell your
> aircraft, car, motorcycle, boat, etc right now and never look back.
> The rest of us need you out of this sport before we wind up having only
one
> $20,000 Chinese built choice when it comes time to buy a new engine for
our
> airplanes.
>
> Sincerly,
> Dennis Rowe, Mk-3 N616DR, Leechburg, PA
> Do definitly archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 800x6 Tires on Azusa rims |
Danny and all,
***the valve stem pulled out.
Found out the 800x6 tube valve stem is offset about 3/4 inch
to the outboard side. The Azusa valve stem holes are in the
center.
***
The same thing happened to my tires when they were 6 months old. I had the
same solution but I also used masking tape to make a dam and then filled the
old hole half's with J-B Weld and sanded smooth. You can barely see where
the original holes were and nothing gets to the exposed inner tube.
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolb Kolbra: Jabiru 2200, 499 hours
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ron wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI bows out, another victom of our legal system |
I think his lawyer owns it now as he could not pay him!!!, but call the new
minimax design owners,and you just may be surprised if you ask about buying
a bike!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 2SI bows out, another victom of our legal system
>
> I read about 2si... yet another reason added to many that I hate our legal
> system. :/ I've heard some pretty good opinions of 2si motors. It is a
> shame. It reminds me of the guy that build and flew a Team airbike into a
> swamp in florida.. no training. Hurt himself and now owns the airbike
> design. Real shame.
>
> aaron
>
> -
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: 2SI bows out, another victom of our legal system
>
>
> >
> >
> > > I guess what I'm suggesting is do what makes you comfortable. You
can't
> > > cover every angle so as to make flying completely safe. You risk death
> > just
> > > getting out of bed in the morning.
> > >
> > > Rick Neilsen
> > > Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
> >
> >
> > Rick and others,
> > Thought your line here was a good intro for this post.
> > I have been holding this news for a couple weeks until I was sure it had
> > been released to the press.
> >
> > South Carolina based Two Stroke International, the maker of my 690L and
> the
> > only American company manufacturing light aircraft 2 cycle engines has
> > decided to withdraw from the aviation market. The chief reason is
because
> of
> > a lawsuit filed by a builder and pilot of a homebuilt aircraft who was
> > paralyzed when his engine allegedly quit and he failed to fly the
> airplane.
> > Now because of one mans refusal to accept responsibility for the risks
> > involved in his chosen recreation, no one will be able to purchase new
> > American made 2SI engines.
> > Another chapter in the exportation of American industry brought to you
by
> > the upstanding trial lawyers of our once greater country.
> > All of us must understand that nobody has ever put a gun to our heads
and
> > forced us to build these contraptions, nor has the manufacturer of any
> > engine forced us to install their engine. We do all this of our own
> volition
> > and as such should assume all the risks that go along with this sport.
> > If you are unwilling to accept the fact that you or one of your
passengers
> > may someday receive horrible bodily harm or worse due to the operation
of
> > your little aircraft or other vehicles, and if you can't accept the fact
> > that you are the single reason this harm may come to you, PLEASE sell
your
> > aircraft, car, motorcycle, boat, etc right now and never look back.
> > The rest of us need you out of this sport before we wind up having only
> one
> > $20,000 Chinese built choice when it comes time to buy a new engine for
> our
> > airplanes.
> >
> > Sincerly,
> > Dennis Rowe, Mk-3 N616DR, Leechburg, PA
> > Do definitly archive
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> I agree with your commentary. Its ridiculous, now the
> choices left are to buy Rotax stuff at inflated
> prices.
Ron/All:
Ever price an American or Japanese outboard motor, two or
four cycle? The few choices we have, the prices are out of
sight, but they are proven products. They are reliable,
especially the four strokes. The two stroke outboards went
through a lot of "piston seizure" and "crank failure"
problems a few years back. The outboard industry seems to
have gotten those problems straightened out. Even though
there are four or five brand names out there, the
competition does not keep down the prices.
I can't speak for the Rotax two stroke engines, but the
912/912S engines are reliable, efficient, light weight, and
expensive. But so are Lycoming and Continental expensive.
Rotax parts are also very expensive, but they don't use many
parts. When is the last time you bought/priced a part for
your Ford or Dodge?
I can talk about 912/912S engines, not only from what I have
read and seen, but what I have done. I have flown in
front of the 912/912S engines for the last 10 years and
1,741 hours. I have gotten nothing but good, reliable
service from both engines. I have seen the TBO go from 600,
to 1000, to 1200, and now 1500 hours. Routine maintenance
consist of oil, oil filter, air filter, and spark plug
changes. I have never had to add oil to a 912/912S between
normal changes.
I believe the reason you don't see other engines in
quantities flying on our airplanes is because they have not
proven themselves to be as good or better than the 912/912S.
You get what you pay for. I want reliability. I want
something I can count on to get me there and back. In our
sport, we have to have an engine that we can trust and rely on.
I have had three engine outs with the 912/912S. Two were
bad fuel and the pilot was responsible for those, not the
engine. One was carb ice just prior to touch down at Toad
River, BC. That was also pilot responsibility for not
having a carb heat system. The carb ice problem has been
remedied.
I don't have any experience with Verner, but John Fletcher,
Turlock, CA, John Williamson, Arlington, TX, TNK, London,
KY, does. None of it favorable. I think John W told me
there were 5 Verner engines in the US.
I have no experience with Jabiru engines. John W seems to
have had good service out of his, but it lacks a gear box
option. This reduces the capability of the Kolb Kolbra and
MK III. Although John W had excellent cruise power, the
Jabiru lacked when it came to take off and climb.
I don't have any experience with VW engines, except in my
old VW buses and campers. We have one flying on the List
and one that has not flown. Both on MK IIIs. I'll let Rick
Nielsen defend his engine and Larry Bourne defend his, when
Larry gets it flying and gets some experience in the air
with it.
As far as comparing the reliability between two and four
stroke engines of any brand, I will let someone else speak
to that.
My thoughts, for what they are worth,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI bows out, another victom of our legal system |
In a message dated 11/18/2003 10:56:31 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jlbaker(at)telepath.com writes:
Not gonna help. We are moving toward the Japanese style of
justice wherein if you are in a particular place/situation at a specific
time and caused some grievious harm to another, you will be held
liable because if you hadn't been there nothing would have
happened. This scenario also applies to inanimate objects....if the
2SI hadn't been there all would be well.
As for lawyers...just watch what they do to medical malpractice
insurance costs....heard malparctice premiums in the state of OK
will run up 80% next year to be followed the year after by another
80%.......
Just shoot the bastards.......(Hello carnivore!)
J.Baker
Mr. Baker:
Every once in a while I read something on this list and I just feel
compelled to respond. It might be the subtlety of your analysis, it might be your
obvious grasp of the complexity of the economic and legal issues surrounding
experimental aviation and how they are intertwined. Or maybe its your
penetrating insight into Japanese tort law.
But a little background first . . . and I'll summarize . . . I'm a
lawyer and I represented Kolb Aircraft for many years. If it wasn't for me you'd
be flying a Kitfox.
I can see that you are obviously torn up about 2SI's decision to leave
the aviation market. But have no fear, the country needs folks like you to use
your good ol' common sense to straighten things out. And the helpful and
well considered attitude you display suggests you might be just the sort of guy
your local courthouse and stand on the front steps. When you see a guy with a
tie on (could be a lawyer or a judge) tell him you have THE ANSWERS and can
solve this aviation lawsuit problem. Like this guy with the 2SI suit for
example. Its simple. Just throw the greedy bastard out on his butt. Naturally,
the
judges, who as a group are a very hard working and smart bunch of guys, will
be enormously grateful for your help. In fact, you might want to do a little
something to make yourself stand out from the early morning crowd at the
courthouse, I dunno, a big pointed hat maybe, just so they see you.
Alot of us in the aviation defense bar are getting tired. You know how
it is, endlessly watching our clients getting slapped upside the head by
greedy plaintiffs who got a hangnail or lost their self esteem because of some
alleged defect in the product. So you have come along at just the right time.
I
need a break. In fact, the Lawyer Pilots Bar Association is meeting in Tucson
this winter, maybe you'd like to give a little speech to the group. Just one
thing, we make speakers wear, uh, really, really big red shoes.
So I'm just gonna put my feet up on my desk and take it easy for a bit,
now that you have made my job so much easier, then I'll get back to work on
installing that 912 in my Mark III. Thanks again for all the help.
Mark R. Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III, N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
Kolbers,
I've already made up my mind about where I'm going to locate the horz.stab. mounting
tangs in relation of height but would like to read some thread about the
difference's between the plans and what winds up on everyone's planes. John Williamson
has helped me with some issues in this area. We decided that the plans
are some what misleading as to where these "tangs" are to be located and his
quick build kit came from lite speed with the front edge of the horz. stab.
located right up even with the fuselage tube. After flying he decided that is
needed to be lowered by 5/8" (I think) to make it fly correctly. Yesterday John
sent me some photo's of Mark German's Kolbra (a masterpiece) and I noticed his
horz.stabs. were hiked up (if you will) to the top of his tube.
The factory Kolbra has the stabs. right in the center of the tube. What's up with
this? Is it a personal preference or a mishap in the plans?
John H made a good point this morning in that the factory models are built exactly
to the plans for demo reasons.
I guess I need to be more flexible in my thinking when it come's to building my
bird. This is my first airplane to build and up until Charley spent a night with
me working on the plane, I felt sorta lost trying to follow the plans to the
T. Kinda of like the FAA written exam, you have to look at your answers and
say "Does this look right?" Charley is also interested in the rudder on this
plane. He said "I've flown jets that don't have that much rudder!"
At any rate the building has been fun so far and I would recommend this kit to
any thinking of a first time project.
pp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
John/All
If you have the dollars laying around and don't want or aren't comfortable
assembling you own engine package your best bet is the Rotax 912 series for
a Kolb. The VW engine can be purchased new with top of the line parts
starting with long block for around $3,300.00. Then add additional
components and you can have a complete redrive VW engine package for around
$5,000.00. If you build your own engines you can do it for less. If you
install fuel injection or other options it will cost more. The engine can be
built to weigh app. 15 more than a 912 or as we have seen 50 lbs more if you
aren't careful. The engine is a big slow turning engine that is easy to live
with. It produces app the same thrust as a 912 and can be tuned to produce
more that a 912s if desired. The reliability issue with direct drive engines
is now fairly good and yet to be proven with redrive engines. The
reliability may be reduced in higher powered options. Due to the old design
VWs do require more frequent oil changes and may leak some oil. I also don't
see the TBO going beyond 1000 hours but rebuild cost is a fraction of the
912 cost.
There are a number of other people out there that are building Kolb's with
VWs that we haven't hear from. At least one is building a gear reduction
drive for the VW. There is another that is building a MKIIIX with a updated
Larry Bourne style reduction drive. The motivation is it a good engine at a
great price.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
> I don't have any experience with VW engines, except in my
> old VW buses and campers. We have one flying on the List
> and one that has not flown. Both on MK IIIs. I'll let Rick
> Nielsen defend his engine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI bows out, another victom of our legal system |
I had to shake this email three times to get enough sarcasm off to finish
reading it. I am not entirely sure what is attempted to be said here? That
our legal system is great the way it is? That 2si motors were shiat to begin
with? That lawyers work hard for their money? I have a lawyer to thank for
owning a kolb instead of a kitfox?
Confused....
aaron
-
----- Original Message -----
From: <Cavuontop(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 2SI bows out, another victom of our legal system
> Mr. Baker:
>
> Every once in a while I read something on this list and I just feel
> compelled to respond. It might be the subtlety of your analysis, it might
be your
> obvious grasp of the complexity of the economic and legal issues
surrounding
> experimental aviation and how they are intertwined. Or maybe its your
> penetrating insight into Japanese tort law.
>
> But a little background first . . . and I'll summarize . . . I'm a
> lawyer and I represented Kolb Aircraft for many years. If it wasn't for
me you'd
> be flying a Kitfox.
>
> I can see that you are obviously torn up about 2SI's decision to
leave
> the aviation market. But have no fear, the country needs folks like you
to use
> your good ol' common sense to straighten things out. And the helpful and
> well considered attitude you display suggests you might be just the sort
of guy
> your local courthouse and stand on the front steps. When you see a guy
with a
> tie on (could be a lawyer or a judge) tell him you have THE ANSWERS and
can
> solve this aviation lawsuit problem. Like this guy with the 2SI suit for
> example. Its simple. Just throw the greedy bastard out on his butt.
Naturally, the
> judges, who as a group are a very hard working and smart bunch of guys,
will
> be enormously grateful for your help. In fact, you might want to do a
little
> something to make yourself stand out from the early morning crowd at the
> courthouse, I dunno, a big pointed hat maybe, just so they see you.
>
> Alot of us in the aviation defense bar are getting tired. You know
how
> it is, endlessly watching our clients getting slapped upside the head by
> greedy plaintiffs who got a hangnail or lost their self esteem because of
some
> alleged defect in the product. So you have come along at just the right
time. I
> need a break. In fact, the Lawyer Pilots Bar Association is meeting in
Tucson
> this winter, maybe you'd like to give a little speech to the group. Just
one
> thing, we make speakers wear, uh, really, really big red shoes.
>
> So I'm just gonna put my feet up on my desk and take it easy for a
bit,
> now that you have made my job so much easier, then I'll get back to work
on
> installing that 912 in my Mark III. Thanks again for all the help.
>
> Mark R. Sellers
> Kolb Twinstar Mark III, N496BM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Firestar gross wt |
Hi,
I am curious about what all the Firestar (original, single seat unit, five
rib wing) pilots are flying at, relative to gross weight. I have to decide if
its time to give up on the Firestar and get something stronger or if I am being
overly concerned.
I would appreciate it if any of you who are also flying this particular model
would send me (off list) your total hours and what you have been flying at
(gross weight) and if you have heard of any wing or other failures.
Thanks,
Steve
do not archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine Choices |
> If you have the dollars laying around and don't want or
> aren't comfortable assembling you own engine package your
> best bet is the Rotax 912 series for a Kolb.
> Rick Neilsen Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
Rick/Gang:
VW's on Kolbs have a long way to go to prove their
effectiveness and reliability, compared to the 912/912S
series engines.
Value? Yes, if I could put a Ford 351W on the MK III, I
would have a cheap, reliable, powerful, heavy engine. I
paid $2,500.00 for a brand new 351W marine engine a couple
years ago.
In time VWs may prove their value and reliability. At the
present they have not demonstrated it on Kolb aircraft.
They just have not accumulated enough flight time to say
they are anywhere nearly as reliable as the 912/912S engines.
There is nothing like going out to fly, hitting the starter,
knowing I will most likely complete this flight without
redesigning or overhauling something on the engine.
Folks that are VW and auto conversion purist love what they
do. Figuring out how to make an auto engine work on an
aircraft is a game with them. I am just a little bit
different. I want to go fly with the least amount of
problems. It may cost more, but it is worth it, to me, for
the secure, comfortable feeling of flying with something
that has been proven reliable. Thanks to a lot of user
testing hours, that's us, Rotax has come up with a great
power plant.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI bows out |
As much as I may dislike Rotax and their near
monopoly. I will not dissuade anyone from buying one
on the merits that you just stated. I just don't like
as a matter of instinct price gouging. Whether its
Lycoming, Continental, Jabiru, or Rotax. We know that
those engines are priced as high as they are because
people will pay those prices. 2SI had imo a good
product which essentially kept the two stroke prices
down. Their marketing sucked, which explained their
dismal market share. With them gone I am betting that
Rotax will float their 2-stroke prices up by about
$300-$500 within the next 14 months as whatever supply
of 2si was out there gets used up.
Was I at near 0 MSL I would already have had a 2si
motor sitting waiting to be installed on my M3X.
However 70hp at D.A of around 7800-9000 in the warmer
season knocked them out of contention.
In many ways Kolb can capitalize on this situation and
gain some market share by modifying the cage on the
M3x, Kolbra etc. to be able to accept a Conti-O200.
Those are out there at 5K or less, and I am willing to
compare reliability with a Rotax of your choice
anytime. Maintenance / overhaul on those engines is
simple. Anyone that builds a Kolb can OH an O-200. If
weight is an issue then replace the mags with elec
ign, and some other stuff, and you saved 30+ pounds.
Yet TnKolb is doing nothing about that.
Anyway that how I see it.
================================
--- John Hauck wrote:
>
>
>
> > I agree with your commentary. Its ridiculous, now
> the
> > choices left are to buy Rotax stuff at inflated
> > prices.
>
> Ron/All:
>
> Ever price an American or Japanese outboard motor,
> two or
> four cycle? The few choices we have, the prices are
> out of
> sight, but they are proven products. They are
> reliable,
> especially the four strokes. The two stroke
> outboards went
> through a lot of "piston seizure" and "crank
> failure"
> problems a few years back. The outboard industry
> seems to
> have gotten those problems straightened out. Even
> though
> there are four or five brand names out there, the
> competition does not keep down the prices.
>
> I can't speak for the Rotax two stroke engines, but
> the
> 912/912S engines are reliable, efficient, light
> weight, and
> expensive. But so are Lycoming and Continental
> expensive.
> Rotax parts are also very expensive, but they don't
> use many
> parts. When is the last time you bought/priced a
> part for
> your Ford or Dodge?
>
> I can talk about 912/912S engines, not only from
> what I have
> read and seen, but what I have done. I have flown
> in
> front of the 912/912S engines for the last 10 years
> and
> 1,741 hours. I have gotten nothing but good,
> reliable
> service from both engines. I have seen the TBO go
> from 600,
> to 1000, to 1200, and now 1500 hours. Routine
> maintenance
> consist of oil, oil filter, air filter, and spark
> plug
> changes. I have never had to add oil to a 912/912S
> between
> normal changes.
>
> I believe the reason you don't see other engines in
> quantities flying on our airplanes is because they
> have not
> proven themselves to be as good or better than the
> 912/912S.
>
> You get what you pay for. I want reliability. I
> want
> something I can count on to get me there and back.
> In our
> sport, we have to have an engine that we can trust
> and rely on.
>
> I have had three engine outs with the 912/912S. Two
> were
> bad fuel and the pilot was responsible for those,
> not the
> engine. One was carb ice just prior to touch down
> at Toad
> River, BC. That was also pilot responsibility for
> not
> having a carb heat system. The carb ice problem has
> been
> remedied.
>
> I don't have any experience with Verner, but John
> Fletcher,
> Turlock, CA, John Williamson, Arlington, TX, TNK,
> London,
> KY, does. None of it favorable. I think John W
> told me
> there were 5 Verner engines in the US.
>
> I have no experience with Jabiru engines. John W
> seems to
> have had good service out of his, but it lacks a
> gear box
> option. This reduces the capability of the Kolb
> Kolbra and
> MK III. Although John W had excellent cruise power,
> the
> Jabiru lacked when it came to take off and climb.
>
> I don't have any experience with VW engines, except
> in my
> old VW buses and campers. We have one flying on the
> List
> and one that has not flown. Both on MK IIIs. I'll
> let Rick
> Nielsen defend his engine and Larry Bourne defend
> his, when
> Larry gets it flying and gets some experience in the
> air
> with it.
>
> As far as comparing the reliability between two and
> four
> stroke engines of any brand, I will let someone else
> speak
> to that.
>
> My thoughts, for what they are worth,
>
> john h
>
>
>
> Click on the
> this
> generous
> _->
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Ron
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher J Armstrong" <tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | 2SI bows out, another victom of our legal system |
Mark,
Here is my problem with decisions like these. When 2SI sold one engine
to one individual they probably made Under $2000. IF the engine fails
to perform up to its specifications then a plaintiff should be able to
recover some amount of money or repairs. But the failure of the engine
does not cause an aircraft to be damaged in a crash. The damage is
caused by pilots who made decisions and manipulated controls and
voluntarily took risks and the combination of those actions and the
risks results in damage. No amount of engineering, design or voodoo by
2SI or Rotax or Lycoming or GAEC ( God's Aircraft Engine Company) can
possibly prevent all engine stoppages or make pilots fly such that an
engine stoppage does not result in a damaged aircraft or injury to the
pilot or PAX. Because it is not possible to fulfill this admirable goal
the courts should not be able to hold the aircraft manufacture
responsible to it.
If the court shows that the Engine manufacture did not do what a normal
reasonable person would do to make their engines work as well as they
can then you have shown liability and are due some money. Maybe even
$50,000 (above actual damages). Punitive damages are supposed to make
companies use reasonable effort to make safe reliable products. They
are not to put companies out of business. And they should not be
awarded every time a product fails, cause all products have a failure
rate, even if the manufacture made an honest mistake that is part of the
failure rate. But if they knowingly made a mistake and did not try to
fix it then you have found liability.
The courts right now only have to show that it was possible that the
engine could have caused a crash and millions are awarded for $2000
profit product failure. The standard of what is considered liable, and
the award levels are utterly ridiculous.
I know of several engine and airplane designs that have performance that
is so amazing that it would literally change the world. Anybody want a
50 hp engine that weighs 50 pounds burning under 3 gallons per hour!
How about a near vtol single seater that can cruise at 150 mph and
takeoff and land in under 50 feet. You wont see them developed or sold
because the risks are not just too high, but almost completely
unbeatable. They will loose everything they have if they go into an
aviation related business, So they wont. And that is the real cost of
these rulings.
A very sad Topher
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "k dempsey" <kdempsey(at)nyc.rr.com> |
Anybody know of a subaru powered mk 3 -
I suppose a mk 2 would not be strong enough ..
Cant find much in the archives - - this - -
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=10742372?KEYS
=subaru?LISTNAME=Kolb?HITNUMBER=60?SERIAL=1203034683?SHOWBUTTONS=YES
Can Anybody point me in the right direction?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard &
Martha Neilsen
Subject: Kolb-List: Engine Choices
-->
John/All
If you have the dollars laying around and don't want or aren't
comfortable assembling you own engine package your best bet is the Rotax
912 series for a Kolb. The VW engine can be purchased new with top of
the line parts starting with long block for around $3,300.00. Then add
additional components and you can have a complete redrive VW engine
package for around $5,000.00. If you build your own engines you can do
it for less. If you install fuel injection or other options it will cost
more. The engine can be built to weigh app. 15 more than a 912 or as we
have seen 50 lbs more if you aren't careful. The engine is a big slow
turning engine that is easy to live with. It produces app the same
thrust as a 912 and can be tuned to produce more that a 912s if desired.
The reliability issue with direct drive engines is now fairly good and
yet to be proven with redrive engines. The reliability may be reduced in
higher powered options. Due to the old design VWs do require more
frequent oil changes and may leak some oil. I also don't see the TBO
going beyond 1000 hours but rebuild cost is a fraction of the 912 cost.
There are a number of other people out there that are building Kolb's
with VWs that we haven't hear from. At least one is building a gear
reduction drive for the VW. There is another that is building a MKIIIX
with a updated Larry Bourne style reduction drive. The motivation is it
a good engine at a great price.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
> I don't have any experience with VW engines, except in my
> old VW buses and campers. We have one flying on the List
> and one that has not flown. Both on MK IIIs. I'll let Rick Nielsen
> defend his engine
=
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <jon(at)joncroke.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI bows out, another victom of our legal system |
> The courts right now only have to show that it was possible that the
> engine could have caused a crash and millions are awarded for $2000
> profit product failure. The standard of what is considered liable, and
> the award levels are utterly ridiculous.
>
I wonder what the EAA is doing to address this issue.... with their MILLIONS
of $$$ we give in dues and pay at Oshkosh... hope they are considering using
their lobby voice and power to rectify this situation..
I can only wonder how a small manufacturer trying to market a Light Sport
Aircraft for Sport Pilot is going to address this nasty trap of
liability.....!?
For every lawyer a plaintiff uses to file a suit, there needs to be another
lawyer for the defendent trying to protect himself (maybe two). The
lawyering business can only benefit from this stuff -- no matter what side
you are on! Perpetual motion, almost! Yuk.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI bows out |
SMTPD_IN_RCVD
Gang,
I am sorry I even started this thread, but here goes anyhow.
We all know the Rotax 912 is the greatest, we also know it is the most
expensive.
Don't let my aircrafts light weight full you, I did not scimp on my wings or
anything else. I did however shop hard for bargains to keep the price of my
Kolb at a ridiculously low figure. Last time I checked that wasn't a crime.
(Sorry if that was a little uncivil.)
I did pay 1/5th the price of a 912S for my 2SI. Yes I know it is only a
lowly 2 cycle and I fly it as you should fly any single engine aircraft,
even a 912 powered one.
Maybe after I put more time on it I will wish I had not bought it.
Than again maybe its crank will go the full 1000hrs and the top ends will go
500 hrs between overhauls and it will have been a great investment. We shall
see.
So far so good, it has only been 36hrs because of this states crappy weather
so I have a long way to go.
I do operate this aircraft as a recreational vehicle much like a go cart or
my dirt bike. Even though it is N-numbered I consider it an Ultralight as
its speed is the same. I do not feel the need to install a $12000, 170
pound engine in an ultralight. To each his own, lets try not to look down
our noses at folks with differant powerplants than ours, it gets kind of
agrivating and after all, we are all brothers in Kolbdom.
I do lament the lack of choices in engines because of the tort situation.
Maybe if we had fewer lawyers in politics? :-I
I remember the old Kolbs video used to say that the Mk-3 could be landed in
very small places should the need arise, was this not a referance to the
nature of the engines they were putting in Mk-3s at the time. (2 cycles)
People who choose 2 cycles for their ultralights are not wrong, they have
simply made a choice.
Someday if the right deal presents itself at the right time, I will install
an 80 hp 912 in my bird, its pure economics.
When I build a Sonex, it will have a 3300 Jabiru, as that type of aircraft
is not suited to 2 cycle powerplants, Kolbs however are.
Nuf said
Maybe we could just move on, please
Dennis Rowe "Satisfied Kolb owner"
Mk-3 N616DR, PA, 2SI 690L-70, Powerfin, 485 pounds empty, (flies like a
quick ultralight)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: leave em alone |
Just a footnote, more malpractice suits are filed against lawyers than
doctors.
do not archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> Anyone have any tips for tail wire bracing? Going to have
> a stab at that tonight!
>
> pp
Paul/All:
Yep. I played with tail wire bracing from day one, 1984.
Was constantly replacing as wires and hardware changed. By
the time I got to the MK III I was, in one case, wore all
the way through a thimble or two.
I fixed that the last go around. I went to a turnbuckle on
each wire, made up tangs from 4130, used some cable barrels
(they look like little pulley wheels). I cost more the
first time around, but after that they start paying for
themselves by virtue of their much longer life.
If you all will buy me a real nice digital camera I will
take pics and post on my index page. hehehe Gonna get one
one of these days. Would be real handy to help me answer
questions about stuff I have done to my airplane.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WILLIAM D BRADSHAW <PIPERJ5(at)shtc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 800x6 Tires on Azusa rims |
>
> From: "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 800x6 Tires on Azusa rims
>
>
> Danny and all,
>
> ***the valve stem pulled out.
> Found out the 800x6 tube valve stem is offset about 3/4 inch
> to the outboard side. The Azusa valve stem holes are in the
> center.
> ***
>
> The same thing happened to my tires when they were 6 months old. I had the
> same solution but I also used masking tape to make a dam and then filled
the
> old hole half's with J-B Weld and sanded smooth. You can barely see where
> the original holes were and nothing gets to the exposed inner tube.
Good idea John, I'll fill my holes in with JB weld also. Good stuff.
Thanks
Danny
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2SI bows out |
HIya Gang...
Thought I would pass this comment along.
I spoke with **** at 2SI this morning. Called him to discuss his decision,
and here is his reasoning in a nutshell.
"The last time we defended ourselves against a lawsuit like this, it cost me
100 grand, and it never got to court. My lawyer's assure me we can beat this
one also....but the cost will likely be more."
"attempting to amoritize these expenses to the exsisting aircraft engine
sales as there is no assurance that it will be the last lawsuit, is a futile
decision" .
Rotax has insulated themselves from these Lawsuits by their
Canada-Austria-Camen islands-Canada trail of distribution, But 2SI
cannot....their plant is in this country.
THIS is the crux of the problem men..its not a level playing field for a
manufacturer in this country. Even here, and American Honda, we have
discovered that as long as you have no assets in the united states, you dont
need to worry about a lawsuit, as even if you are Filed on, you dont have to
pay the awards. BUT if you maintain any assets here..(as we do)..then you
must.
The ONLY method to hold leverage on an importer who has no assets in this
country is to BAN the importation of his goods, and the courts cannot do
this, only congress has this authority.
Don Gherardini
Sales / Engineering dept.
American Honda Engines
Power Equipment Company
800-626-7326
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI bows out |
Ron,
I'm curious where you are located with high DA? The 618 is only a little
over 70HP and seems to do very well at high DA. gross+ load I see
300-500fpm, and solo my mk3 is a real climber, seeing 1100-1200fpm. Average
temp here is 35F at 6800', so our DAs on most days I am flying (~50F) are
7500+. I'm sure I will need to either fly solo or light passenger on hot
days, but I'm not sure the extra 7 HP of a 4 stroke would be enough to
change that fact; especially when considering the extra weight. If I
remember correctly, you loose ~2.5% HP performance for every 1k' of DA. so a
7500k DA would be loosing ~20% performance. Our hot 90F days will see DA
over 10k.
I know I have heard of people having issues with the rave values in 618s,
but if you take care of it and be sure to cycle the value at cruise I have
heard people love it. I don't have enough hours in my 618 to really comment
on long-term reliability, but the previous owner has 180hrs trouble free and
the engine still runs great. I would guess that the 618 made a tempting buy
when they were still made. 7HP less than a 912 that cost almost double.
I know that 2 cycle engines do not have the best rep.... but out of 10-15
planes that flew out of the old ultralight field in Camarillo I think they
all ran rotax 2 cycles. I only heard of one engine out and if you saw it you
would wonder how it even started... I think the plane and engine had been
tied down outside for a couple years without being cleaned or maintained.
aaron
new mk3 owner
> Was I at near 0 MSL I would already have had a 2si
> motor sitting waiting to be installed on my M3X.
> However 70hp at D.A of around 7800-9000 in the warmer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2SI bows out |
I am southern Arizona (FHU) Fort Huachuca Arizona.
elev 4600 ft (on a very cold day). We loose about 3%
of hp per 1000 ft. I agree that for just regular
flying 70hp (probably around 55hp at the prop at your
alt) could be enough. I am somewhat ova mmm,,
demanding aerial adventurer. So within the limits of
my budget and the Kolb I want the most I can get. I am
planing on playing around out in the desert, landing
in all sorts of places, for hunting and just
exploring. I want lots of go juice. :-)
For more hp in a 2stroke I would suggest you look at
Hirth, and Simonini. They both have 100hp versions for
much less than the 4 strokers.
==================================================
Ron,
I'm curious where you are located with high DA? The
618 is only a
little
over 70HP and seems to do very well at high DA. gross+
load I see
300-500fpm, and solo my mk3 is a real climber, seeing
1100-1200fpm.
Average
temp here is 35F at 6800', so our DAs on most days I
am flying (~50F)
are
7500+. I'm sure I will need to either fly solo or
light passenger on
hot
days, but I'm not sure the extra 7 HP of a 4 stroke
would be enough to
change that fact; especially when considering the
extra weight. If I
remember correctly, you loose ~2.5% HP performance for
every 1k' of DA.
so a
7500k DA would be loosing ~20% performance. Our hot
90F days will see
DA
over 10k.
I know I have heard of people having issues with the
rave values in
618s,
but if you take care of it and be sure to cycle the
value at cruise I
have
heard people love it. I don't have enough hours in my
618 to really
comment
on long-term reliability, but the previous owner has
180hrs trouble
free and
the engine still runs great. I would guess that the
618 made a tempting
buy
when they were still made. 7HP less than a 912 that
cost almost double.
I know that 2 cycle engines do not have the best
rep.... but out of
10-15
planes that flew out of the old ultralight field in
Camarillo I think
they
all ran rotax 2 cycles. I only heard of one engine out
and if you saw
it you
would wonder how it even started... I think the plane
and engine had
been
tied down outside for a couple years without being
cleaned or
maintained.
aaron
new mk3 owner
=====
Ron
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com |
| Subject: | Re:Rotax 912 prices |
Hello list members.
I do agree that the price for a Rotax 912 is expensive in the USA.
If you would like to know what I have to couch up for a Rotax 912 UL up here
in Iceland with our high salestaxes, the price is $13.500 with shipping and
24,5% sales tax. I guess you are not doing so bad after all in your neck of
the woods?
Just my humble input. I enjoy the list info and opinions.
Best regards,
Johann G.
Iceland.
http://www.gi.is/fis
-------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com> |
Richard Pike wrote:
>
>
> I know a stranger thing than that:
> I got that snug, firm, secure feeling -and incredibly more- when got I
> converted from hippie heathen to trusting my Jewish Carpenter Boss for
> salvation 30 years ago.
> Compared to that, any conversion on my MKIII is trivial.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
Preach it brother! You may even convert a lawyer someday.
Amen?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | engines, debate over which is better |
| From: | Jim Gerken <gerken(at)us.ibm.com> |
11/20/2003 01:11:37 PM
I am sure glad you guys are all in love with the engine you chose. Just
think how much BMW engines would cost if you all wanted one. Competition
is a good thing. Too bad there is little economic reward for the pioneers.
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engines, debate over which is better |
>
>I am sure glad you guys are all in love with the engine you chose.
Jim,
I believe most are a little more practical about such a choice. Things like size,
weight and cost all figure into it. If someone would come out with a 30 to
40 hp four cycle engine that weighed dry and dressed around 75 pounds and priced
around two to three thousand dollars, I am sure some of them would show up
on FireFlys and Firestars. But until that happens, we are stuck with which
brand of two cycle engine to purchase that best fits our needs and our pocket
book. Maybe Rad-Cam will leave four cylinders off and sell a 30 hp two cycle
engine, or perhaps remove only two and sell a 45 hp engine.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar gross wt |
Thanks Thom.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ron wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
anyone built or know of a winter enclosure on a ultrastar?,,,yea its old (1985)
but i love it!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
ron wehba wrote:
anyone built or know of a winter
> enclosure on a ultrastar?,,,yea its old (1985) but i love
> it!!
Ron/All:
Personally, I think an enclosure would ruin what the
Ultrastar is all about, wide open, light weight, and a super
flying little airplane.
For winter flying in my Ultrastar I bought a snowmobile
suit, some elk skin mittens that came almost to my elbows,
and some kind of kinky foam and nylon snow boots they were
selling back in 1984. I also had a balaclava that covered
everything on my head but my eyeballs, and a full face BMW
helmet with swing up front so I could wear it with my
glasses. Did a pretty good job of keeping me from freezing
for a little while. On the ground I could also raise the
front of the BMW helmet and spit my Beechnut if I forgot to
before I got ready to fly. :-)
Would have been nice to have the Chilly Vest to keep me warm
back then. I believe the Cuyuna alternator would have had
plenty power to operate it. That little vest does
everything an efficient cabin heater does with out all the
plumbing and other hardware.
I have seen several attempts to enclose the Ultrastar, but
miserable failures and ruined good birds IMHO.
Want to get out of the weather, buy a Firestar. Then when
you get older, get a Mark III, fully enclose it, and enjoy
the comfort of not getting blasted by warm or cold air.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Rotax and Aircraft Engines |
> I think that's there way around all the liability
> issues... Even Rotax says their engines are not for use
> in an aircraft.
> -- R
Robert/All:
Sorry to disagree, but check this out:
When only the best will do, a genuine ROTAX Aircraft Engine
is the only option.
Then go to this url and check out the page where I got it:
http://www.rotec.com/
While you are at it, check out this page:
http://www.kodiakbs.com/index.htm
From what I can tell, they make no bones about it. Rotax
sells aircraft engines.
Take care,
john h
PS: I took the liberty to change the subject line.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ron wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
thanks guess i'll do just that or fly my minimax when its cold.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: enclosure
>
>
> ron wehba wrote:
> anyone built or know of a winter
> > enclosure on a ultrastar?,,,yea its old (1985) but i love
> > it!!
>
> Ron/All:
>
> Personally, I think an enclosure would ruin what the
> Ultrastar is all about, wide open, light weight, and a super
> flying little airplane.
>
> For winter flying in my Ultrastar I bought a snowmobile
> suit, some elk skin mittens that came almost to my elbows,
> and some kind of kinky foam and nylon snow boots they were
> selling back in 1984. I also had a balaclava that covered
> everything on my head but my eyeballs, and a full face BMW
> helmet with swing up front so I could wear it with my
> glasses. Did a pretty good job of keeping me from freezing
> for a little while. On the ground I could also raise the
> front of the BMW helmet and spit my Beechnut if I forgot to
> before I got ready to fly. :-)
>
> Would have been nice to have the Chilly Vest to keep me warm
> back then. I believe the Cuyuna alternator would have had
> plenty power to operate it. That little vest does
> everything an efficient cabin heater does with out all the
> plumbing and other hardware.
>
> I have seen several attempts to enclose the Ultrastar, but
> miserable failures and ruined good birds IMHO.
>
> Want to get out of the weather, buy a Firestar. Then when
> you get older, get a Mark III, fully enclose it, and enjoy
> the comfort of not getting blasted by warm or cold air.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ultra Star landing gear |
> Dale, It is my understanding that ultrastars where all
> plans built
> Dan Walter
Dan/All:
The early ones were Dan. In 1984, they started welding up
all the 4130 parts so folks did not have to do any welding
to build the airplane. Could have been a little earlier
though. I got mine in March 1984. Total price was $3,495.
Everything except finish paint and instruments. What an
airplane!
I never flew the Ultrastar with anything but the rigid gear.
Kept bending them, mostly the right one because of the way
I had to turn about 45 deg to right on short short final,
right before touch down. Brother Jim went to .090 4130 and
I had no more problems bending and braking them. A little
heavier, but they made the aircraft a little more survivable
to a low time untrained fixed wing pilot.
Take care,
john h
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mid-State Sandblasting" <plane(at)rtmc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ultra Star landing gear retrofit |
Now is the time to convert the landing gear to a firestar type I have the
drawings to do this if you are interested. they were designed by Dennis
Souder back in 1993. I had this retrofit on my ultrastar that had a Subaru
engine on it. I can get them copied and send them to anybody that is
interested in them.
Randy sure miss my soobydoo
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | How it all works |
Gentlemen:
I regret the sarcastic tone of my prior contribution to the thread on
2SI. But, I confess, I become exasperated with simple minded discussions of the
very complex legal/economic issues surrounding aviation, especially when they
suggest that lawyers ought to be shot, or that its all just a scam to make
lawyers rich. I've been doing stoop labor, trying to wring a little justice out
of the sweaty fields of the law for nearly 20 years now, and frankly, I think
my view is way more sophisticated, and correct, than those who simply say,
"The country's gone sue happy!!" So if you learned your morality from Hallmark
greeting cards and your economics from Time Magazine and got your
understanding of the law from USA Today, and that's fine with you, please stop
reading
now. I wouldn't want to disturb your ignorance.
To understand why companies like 2SI or Team, or indeed Kolb, can't
always thrive in the aviation market-- and the related proposition that Topher
describes of companies not being able to bring innovative products to market--
you need to know just a little history. I'll make it short.
The history of Torts. When they started this country torts were the
legal problems that weren't criminal (you stole my cow), or contractual (you
failed to sell me the cow). They were other sorts of injuries that the courts
awarded money damages for. (You hurt my cow, now it won't give milk). These
torts had funny names like trespass de bonis asportatis, or trover, and negligence
was one them. The delivery of justice ("you are right, he is wrong") was
fairly simple and reflected the shared understandings and experiences of a
homogenous agrarian society.
Then along comes the industrial revolution, and technology makes life a
bit more complicated. Any decent farmer could look at a horse or a bushel of
grain and tell right off if it was any good; if the farmer bought the bad horse
or the lousy grain thinking it was good, then shame on him for being an
idiot. But how, for example, does one appraise that Goodyear steel belted radial
tire? It could do me alot of harm if it is bad, and I have no way to tell
whether its defective or not. Guess I just have to rely on the guy who made it.
Nevertheless, the law used the concepts of "personal responsibility"
that have been thrown around in this thread for many years. (Mill owner: "I told
the little kid running the knitting machine not to put his fingers in it, now
he's got his arm tore off. What you want me to do?") (Ship owner:
"Everybody knows working on a ship is dangerous, its his problem he couldn't swim.")
(Mine owner: "The shaft collapsed on him, so what, I didn't make him work
here.") The sturdy notion of buyer beware and a sensible reluctance to shift
the
cost of a problem to some one other than the victim kept the courts from
doing anything other than saying to the plaintiff, "Suck it up, shit happens."
Then somebody noticed that the poorhouses were filling up with the
widows and orphans of the dead sailors and miners, and there were lots of mutilated
people walking around with no job. All of this turned out to be real a drag
on the economy, quite apart from the question of whether these people were
dumb or greedy or didn't take responsibility for themselves, or should have
thought before they got their loose clothes caught in the lathe. Soon it became
apparent that the court, by refusing to shift the cost of these injuries to the
ship owner or mine operator were in fact shifting them to EVERYBODY, or more
accurately all of the rest of us, who were forced to pick up the cost of
feeding and clothing these folks, and that didn't seem quite right either.
Over time a consensus grew that the people in the best position to deal
with the cost of all of these widows and orphans and hurt people were the folks
who were mining the coal or knitting the fabric. Add a few cents per ton, or
square yard, to cover the cost of the people who got hurt while the product
was produced and everyone is happy.
SO there you have it, that is the underlying logic of the system. A sort
of secondary effect of that was the rise of the insurance business to make
that expense a little more predictable for the business owners, and even out the
cash flow problems associated with the occasional big damage award. This has
been a huge success for the country. The consumers don't notice the slightly
increased cost of the product, the victims get compensated, and we all go
home happy. This is particularly apparent in an example like the cigarette
industry where the true cost of the damage done to society has only recently become
known, and when you start factoring all the heart attacks and emphysema into
the equation the cost of a pack goes from 20 cents to $3.75.
NOW, would you like to make an intelligent criticism of the legal system
as it applies to aviation? Here it is: the logic of this system works fine
when you are churning out millions of tons of coal or making millions of cars.
But it falls down when you look at small industries like experimental
aviation. I think we'd all agree that the dollar value of all the experimental
aircraft engines sold in the USA amounts to a rounding error in a footnote to the
balance sheet of General Motors. There simply aren't enough units sold to
spread all the potential costs to the consumer without raising the price into the
stratosphere. An insurance company might still take a risk on you if we were
talking about a new formula for hairspray for hamsters, something targeted at a
small audience that probably wouldn't do much damage anyway, but the
consequences of making a bad airplane can be pretty serious. So a system such
as ours
makes it more difficult to bring a product that might make a big difference
in the lives of a small number of people (a good, light, cheap, reliable
airplane engine) to market because you can't get insurance to even out the bumps
in
the cost, and you can't pass all the costs to the consumer without alienating
them. On the other hand a very small number of us are affected, and America
has bigger fish to fry than listening to me moan about how much a Rotax 912
costs.
Want another legitimate criticism of the system? Its not that it gives
away too much money to these greedy freeloading plaintiffs, its that it doesn't
give away enough-- or more specifically, the system is way too random.
Permit me to illustrate this with a real world example.
In the early 90's a RANS S-10 crashed on the on the runway at the old
Kolb factory and killed the pilot. Dennis and the guys were eager to get the
wreckage off the property because it was kind of embarrassing, so I bought it.
The engine was a Rotax 582 so I detached it from the twisted metal and brought
it home and set it on the table in my garage to study. The cooling system was
a factory designed system from RANS and the more I looked at it the worse I
thought it was. This was back in the days when the 582 cold seizure phenomenon
was not as well understood as it is now; but even so, after a couple of days
of looking at it I was convinced that the engine seized because the radiator
system was horribly designed. It was a disaster waiting to happen to the poor
slob who flew the plane; it had no thermostat, the radiator was way oversized
by Rotax's specs, and it was in this huge fairing. Dumb, really dumb. I
concluded that the grieving widow had a thing or two to say to Randy Schlitter.
Did she ever get a dime from him? Nope. Did she try? Nope. And that strikes
me as a shame.
So to refine the criticism-- the system rewards some people (who assert
their claim in court, and not even all of them) and not others who are too
disorganized or grief stricken or plain stupid to make a stink. That gives folks
the impression that the courthouse is random, like a casino, and that is
corrosive respect for the law, and its also not true.
So how do smart guys like us fix this situation? Well, the typical
answer has been to go to your congressman with a fist full of cash and ask him
to
make a law exempting your industry from suit. The problem is that we live in a
democracy and everyone, and I mean everyone, doctors, car makers, drug
manufacturers, insurance companies, HMOs (even aircraft manufacturers) have all
lined up asking for protection from the cost spreading logic of the system. The
problem is that when one group successfully sloughs off their burden everybody
else has to pick up a little extra, and that doesn't sit too well with them.
And because this is a democracy, and because there aren't enough pilots of
experimental aircraft to fill all the Denny's in Delaware we are never going to
be able to vote ourselves the special protections that big industries that
produce important consumer products get from the government.
Guys, remember, the system is supposed to produce the greatest amount of
good for the greatest number of people (not affordable aircraft engines), and
from that point of view it is doing a swell job. We are in a teeny tiny
minority.
Mark Sellers
Kolb Twinstar Mark III, N496BM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <whyme(at)vci.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How it all works |
Right =96We really have a great legal system. A fumble fingered woman can=92t
hold onto her coffee cup and dumps her coffee in her lap. McDonalds has to
pay millions of dollars because they serve hot coffee. Lets look at a
hypothetical case. A man works for a company and his job requires him to
travel a lot. He goes to the local bar while on one of these trips and has a
few drinks. He meets a good-looking girl and takes her to his room. He
contacts a fatal disease from this woman and dies. He has a wife and 4
children. He was earning $100,000 dollars a year and was 40 years old. If he
had lived till retirement with a modest 5% annually increase he would have
earned over 5 million dollars. His family is now left alone. Who should be
held responsible, the motel that rented him the room, the company that
created the job that required travel, or should he and his family have to
accept the fact that he made a poor decision and was a lousy husband and
father. This is one of the problems with our legal system. Look for the deep
pockets and ignore the facts. We all know the risk we take when we fly our
planes and should along with our families be prepared if the unthinkable
happens and not try to blame someone else. An engine failure does not cause
injury. The lack of knowledge on the pilots part either by putting himself
in a position that he cannot cope with the engine failure or does not have
the ability to respond to this engine failure is what causes injury.
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Friday, November 21, 2003 12:14:54
Subject: Kolb-List: How it all works
Gentlemen:
I regret the sarcastic tone of my prior contribution to the thread on
2SI. But, I confess, I become exasperated with simple minded discussions of
the
very complex legal/economic issues surrounding aviation, especially when
they
suggest that lawyers ought to be shot, or that its all just a scam to make
lawyers rich. I've been doing stoop labor, trying to wring a little justice
out
of the sweaty fields of the law for nearly 20 years now, and frankly, I
think
my view is way more sophisticated, and correct, than those who simply say,
"The country's gone sue happy!!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <JJP45(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How it all works |
Well SAID !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron or Mary" <whyme(at)vci.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: How it all works
>
> Right =96We really have a great legal system. A fumble fingered woman
can=92t
> hold onto her coffee cup and dumps her coffee in her lap. McDonalds has to
> pay millions of dollars because they serve hot coffee. Lets look at a
> hypothetical case. A man works for a company and his job requires him to
> travel a lot. He goes to the local bar while on one of these trips and has
a
> few drinks. He meets a good-looking girl and takes her to his room. He
> contacts a fatal disease from this woman and dies. He has a wife and 4
> children. He was earning $100,000 dollars a year and was 40 years old. If
he
> had lived till retirement with a modest 5% annually increase he would have
> earned over 5 million dollars. His family is now left alone. Who should be
> held responsible, the motel that rented him the room, the company that
> created the job that required travel, or should he and his family have to
> accept the fact that he made a poor decision and was a lousy husband and
> father. This is one of the problems with our legal system. Look for the
deep
> pockets and ignore the facts. We all know the risk we take when we fly our
> planes and should along with our families be prepared if the unthinkable
> happens and not try to blame someone else. An engine failure does not
cause
> injury. The lack of knowledge on the pilots part either by putting himself
> in a position that he cannot cope with the engine failure or does not have
> the ability to respond to this engine failure is what causes injury.
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Friday, November 21, 2003 12:14:54
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: How it all works
>
>
> Gentlemen:
>
> I regret the sarcastic tone of my prior contribution to the thread
on
> 2SI. But, I confess, I become exasperated with simple minded discussions
of
> the
> very complex legal/economic issues surrounding aviation, especially when
> they
> suggest that lawyers ought to be shot, or that its all just a scam to make
> lawyers rich. I've been doing stoop labor, trying to wring a little
justice
> out
> of the sweaty fields of the law for nearly 20 years now, and frankly, I
> think
> my view is way more sophisticated, and correct, than those who simply say,
> "The country's gone sue happy!!"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
Jack,
How did the fairing's you made for the ailerons work? Did you get
positive results? Did it do anything for prop noise?
Maybe you have all ready posted the results and I missed them, if not, I
would like to hear about them.
A fellow FireFly driver,
Terry - FireFly #95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher J Armstrong" <tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | How it all works |
Gee, thats complicated. Try designing a man rated space ship sometime.
How about:
1) we stop using the courts as insurance. That is most definitely not
what they are for.
2) We stop giving anyone, no matter what horrible thing happens
ridiculous settlements. How much life insurance does the average
American have. I would guess $250,000 or less. So that should be the
maximum award you can give over actual expenses.
3) Require legally supportable proof that a company was actually
negligent, in addition to convincing the jury. Not that they made a
REASONABLE mistake. Not that something happened that was beyond their
control. They actually made a conscious decision that directly caused
that accident. If they didn't then they are not at fault and should not
be held accountable.
4) If you chose to take part in any activity that has risks associated
with it and the odds turn up against you, you dont get to blame
somebody else for that random act and steal from them. That's right
STEAL from them.
5) If you take legal action against someone, right now you risk
nothing, as the lawyers will work for a percentage of the take, no up
front money. Well guess what, the defense attorney have to be paid and
there is no take at the end of the tunnel unless you successfully
counter sue... Good luck with that. The system absolutely has to be
changed that the loser pays both sides legal expenses. This is simply
obvious and until it happens the system is not only stupid but immoral.
I don't think this is the working lawyers fault. It is the folks in the
house and senate who allow these problems in the legal systems to
develop and continue who are at fault.
Topher
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mid-State Sandblasting" <plane(at)rtmc.net> |
I have a cuyuna ul II 02 for sale with belt reduction. this engine is good
to use on a airboat. 450.00 I have to be careful about selling a aircraft
engine { 2SI problems I don't need em }
Randy soobydoo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Cowan <tcowan1917(at)direcway.com> |
well, my two cents. On its face, having the looser pay all expenses for
both sides, sounds good. but -- and I do mean butt-- look at it this way,
John Q Public against Mega Giant. John gets an ordinary, regular, run of
the mile attorney from his home town and Mega gets the very best, most
expensive (string) of lawyers (your) money will buy. Guess who is going to
win. Someone mentioned OJ. Well, good example. OJ had the best criminal
attorneys HIS money could buy while we the people had good taxpayer dollar
attorneys. Over. Ted.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron or Mary" <whyme(at)vci.net> |
| Subject: | How it all works |
I'm with you Dave. Looser pays. I don't just mean the client. Lawyers get
rich off of their fee. If a lawyer files a frivolous suit and looses, the
lawyer should be responsible for all fees on both sides. This would stop a
lot of this bull. I may be wrong but I think this is the way it is in
England.
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Saturday, November 22, 2003 06:18:24
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: How it all works
-----Original Message-----
From: Cavuontop(at)aol.com [SMTP:Cavuontop(at)aol.com]
Subject: Kolb-List: How it all works
Gentlemen:
But, I confess, I become exasperated with simple minded discussions of
the
very complex legal/economic issues surrounding aviation, especially when
they
suggest that lawyers ought to be shot
No, just field dressed.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BMWBikeCrz(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Camping Gear |
I do motorcycle camping and have some absolute favorite items ...
Mostly LL Bean Stuff But Campmoor should do
1. Goose Down sleeping Bag Stows to size of a loaf of bread
2 . Therma rest
3. Whisper Lite stove ( I have one of these for sale )
4. Sony or grundig short wave radio with BFO for ssb and Morse code reception
The rest of the stuff is personal choice but theese I tems are the "Must Have
" Items LOL
......... Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
>
>Jack,
>
>How did the fairing's you made for the ailerons work? Did you get
>positive results? Did it do anything for prop noise?
>
>Maybe you have all ready posted the results and I missed them, if not, I
>would like to hear about them.
>
Terry,
The combination of fairings on the aileron torque tubes and the push/pull tube
helped to quiet the air passing through the propeller. It is hard to determine
what they have done to the cruise speed. But usually quieter means less drag
and therefore it should be a little faster.
The descriptions of how the these fairings were made can be found on:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly95.html
and
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly96.html
I am still working on how to form fairings for the trailing edges of the ailerons,
elevators, and the rudder. It is going to take about 24 feet of fairing.
Cutting them out or 3/4 inch thick foam and gluing them on, as I have in the
past, is too difficult. I am trying to cut and form them in 15 inch long strips.
So far I have been able to cut the external shape, but I have been having
trouble cutting the 5/16 diameter groove on the front of the fairing. I purchased
a Dremel tool and today I hope to make a holder for it with a fence so that
I can form smooth uniform depth grooves on foam strips that are 15 inches
long. If I can do this, then I can set the table on my scroll saw at an angle,
and using a fence, I can cut them to the final external shape. When I get it
figured out, I will take some photos and put them up so you can see them. So
far it seems pretty simple as to how to make them. The problem has been getting
ready to make them.
For these fairings, the HP and drag reduction calculations predict at:
mphi HP reduction #'s Drag reduction
50 0.58 4.42
55 0.78 5.35
60 1.01 6.38
After this I hope to smooth out the under side of the center section from the soft
gap seal back to and under the engine, and on back to the aileron torque tube
pivot points. This is a region of high velocity air passing through a very
dragy region. I have been putting it off because it is the most difficult.
Then I am going to fair in the horizontal stabilizers to the tail boom tube.
All of these fairings do not violate Part 103 regulations. I estimate all fairings
in total will add another two pounds to the FireFly, and it may fly a little
faster, and better yet, fly further on five gallons of gas. If none of
those things were to happen, it would still be worth it just to reduce the noise
level alone.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Jack & Louise Hart wrote:
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>After this I hope to smooth out the under side of the center section from the
soft gap seal back to and under the engine, and on back to the aileron torque
tube pivot points. This is a region of high velocity air passing through a very
dragy region. I have been putting it off because it is the most difficult.
>
>Jack and all, have been considering this area myself. I was originally
>
going to install root fences at the wing root tops, now I think they
will be total fences, top and
bottom. -Why let the air escape from the underside into all the
turbulent mess inboard?
You're only throwing away good lift pressure (screw Bernoulli). Plans
now call for using
left over lexan glued right to the roots with goop. -BB
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher J Armstrong" <tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
So?
The lawyers who take these cases on will do it on there own risk or not
do it if they dont have a case. The whole point is they now face a
risk if they are wrong. They should.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ted Cowan
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: tort law
well, my two cents. On its face, having the looser pay all expenses for
both sides, sounds good. but -- and I do mean butt-- look at it this
way, John Q Public against Mega Giant. John gets an ordinary, regular,
run of the mile attorney from his home town and Mega gets the very best,
most expensive (string) of lawyers (your) money will buy. Guess who is
going to win. Someone mentioned OJ. Well, good example. OJ had the
best criminal attorneys HIS money could buy while we the people had
good taxpayer dollar attorneys. Over. Ted.
=
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
>
>Jack,
>
>How did the fairing's you made for the ailerons work? Did you get
>positive results? Did it do anything for prop noise?
>
Terry,
I have been thinking about this some more. I have not been able to come up with
any speed improvement in the FireFly. Part of the reason is that I keep changing
other things that influence speed too. But if one goes to the Maximum Airspeed
Graph in AC 103-7, Appendix 1, you can get an idea of what to expect.
For my FireFly the calculated overall drag factor is 12.14. If one goes into the
chart at 39 hp up to the 12.14 line (must interpolate) they intersect at the
55 knot line. By adding fairings to the struts, aileron torque tubes and flairs,
aileron push/pull tubes, and the rear of the fuselage, calculations indicate
that at 60 mph 4.6 hp will be saved. But if one still wants to use up this
hp then one can add it to the 39 and move over to the right on the chart to
43.6 hp. Then move up the chart to the 12.14 line and find out what the design
maximum speed will be. In this case the projected FireFly top speed will be
57.25 kt, or 2.7 mph increase in top speed.
By adding fairings to the 5/16 OD trailing edges will save another hp. This will
boost the projected top speed up to 52.75 kt, or a 3.2 mph increase in top
speed.
One must remember, these are just numbers based on design criteria. Everyone knows
the FireFly in the legal ultralight vehicle configuration will fly faster
than 63 mph. So why bother to fair it in when you do not have to? First of
all, it just flys better in that it is less twitchy, and it is quieter. This
translates into less pilot energy required to fly the FireFly on cross countries,
and it improves endurance of both the pilot and the machine.
You can see the Maximum Airspeed Graph at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/fireflylegal.html
If you would like to print the graph go to:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/ac-7-1.jpg
Jack B Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Ultra Star landing gear |
Hasn't anyone got an old set old set of ultra star gear legs laying around? Surely
some of you US drivers who have converted to fire star gear have the old
ones around. They look like they will be a bad job to make. I have the plans
but I just finished my US and want to fly. It has six hours on it since rebuild.
There are pictures on photoshare of the completed fuslage if you care to look.
I messed up my nice nose pod too.
Dale Sellers
Georgia Ultra Star
Do not archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
Ok folks, one last comment from me on the subject, and
then I am going to think about real nice stuff. Like
flying the M3X in ravins looking for deer and buried
treasure. For some reason lawyers and the Legal
Business does not conjure up nice stuff in my mind's
eye. Being reminded of OJ and then the 40 mil
settlement by Ronald Macdonald, aint wonderful
thinking (unless you are a lawyer).
Besides all the other things that have gone out of
whack with our Justice System. Are the folks who we
get as judges. Judges *should / must* dismiss
frivolous litigation. If someone thinks it should not
have been dismissed let him/her appeal. Enough
unwarranted dismissals and the judge gets in trouble.
Our judges don't judge anymore, they are more like
Masters of Ceremony content on pulling in 70K a year
till they die. I consider the Legal Racket nothing
more than the Business of Misery. Who more than
lawyers as a group is interested in conflict and
dissonance among people, and businesses in our
country. As a group I think none else. When ones bread
and butter is conflict then that one will do as much
as he can to cultivate his business. Yes they will
point out that for every case there is a citizen
claiming a wrong. However a simple cursory study of
claims brought by Lawyers will show that most tort
cases involves an insurance pay-out of a sort, or a
rich target. In other words almost no claims are
brought when the remuneration for the lawyer is from
the litigant's pocket. The inescapable conclusion is
that a lawyer will not take a case for just Justice,
but will take a case for near certain profit. If
justice is accidentally involved then so much the
better from the P.R. angle.
Again in my opinion it is a lack of good effective
judging that allows this very ruinous circus to keep
playing. We must hold the judges responsible. They
need to stop being lawyers. They are the gate keepers,
who are almost never on duty when it counts.
==========================================
well, my two cents. On its face, having the looser
> pay all expenses for
> both sides, sounds good. but -- and I do mean
> butt-- look at it this way,
> John Q Public against Mega Giant. John gets an
> ordinary, regular, run of
> the mile attorney from his home town and Mega gets
> the very best, most
> expensive (string) of lawyers (your) money will buy.
> Guess who is going to
> win. Someone mentioned OJ. Well, good example. OJ
> had the best criminal
> attorneys HIS money could buy while we the people
> had good taxpayer dollar
> attorneys. Over. Ted.
>
>
>
> Click on the
> this
> generous
> _->
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Ron
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Ron Mason ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Ron Mason
Subject: What is this bracket used for?
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/aerialron@cox.net.11.22.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger & Mary" <rkmk(at)erols.com> |
I recently posted some items for sale on the Zenith-list which found their way
over to the Kolb list.
I only have several items left and have posted pics at www.geocities.com/metro3.geo .
Thanks to all the interest in my items. It is nice to know that my 601 will continue
to fly as so many other
projects.
Thanks,
Roger
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | JB Weld & Coolant Don't Mix |
I was using JB Weld as a flow restricter in the burp lines for the Victro 1+ cooling
system. It was not a good idea. The coolant attacks and swells the epoxy.
The hole that I had drilled to control fluid flow closed off.
If you like, you can see the system and an update at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly86.html
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Well folks the long drawn out "What engine to buy" deal is over for me. I just
sealed the deal with Roger Kilby on the 912UL and are sending a bud to go get
it.
So I guess it will be
Paul Petty
Building Kolbra 012 912UL
Decided on a name for her "Miss Dixie"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: JB Weld & Coolant Don't Mix |
For many years I have used an epoxy called PC7. It's very tough,
strong, fuel proof
(recommend only on ground-bound fuel systems tho). You have to be patient,
it's a slow cure stuff. I believe it was reformulated slightly a few
years back when
asbestos became unsafe but appears to still do as well. It's not easily
available
and I usually forget where I got it last time. Always some on my bench.
-BB
Jack & Louise Hart wrote:
>
>I was using JB Weld as a flow restricter in the burp lines for the Victro 1+ cooling
system. It was not a good idea. The coolant attacks and swells the epoxy.
The hole that I had drilled to control fluid flow closed off.
>
>If you like, you can see the system and an update at:
>
>http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly86.html
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Jackson, MO
>
>
>Jack & Louise Hart
>jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Paul,
Miss Dixie!.....good name...now about that paint job you were talkin
about...
instead..I propose a flag flyin paint job..like you know who's...but instead
of ol' Glory.......!.!.!
I have been tossing round this Idea for the paint job on my next airplane
actually...and think how good two aircraft with
a paint job like mine...and one similiar with the Reb Flag....sitting next
to each other at a Fly-in!
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
Way to go Paul, you done got yourself a good deal on the absolute top shelf
engine!
I'm really enjoying hearing progress reports on your bird. Keep her going.
Denny Rowe Mk 3, 2SI 690L-70
PS: I got 30 minutes in tonight after work, I sure miss Daylight savings
time.
>
> Well folks the long drawn out "What engine to buy" deal is over for me. I
just sealed the deal with Roger Kilby on the 912UL and are sending a bud to
go get it.
>
> So I guess it will be
>
> Paul Petty
> Building Kolbra 012 912UL
>
> Decided on a name for her "Miss Dixie"
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Does anyone have a set of UltraStar plans (plans built) they would like to sell.
Please reply offline.
Thanks,
Bruce Berry
skybolt_@msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BMWBikeCrz(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Kolb List Off Topic Delta Ohio HELP ! |
Anyone near delta Ohio (43515)please E-mail me off list .... Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
As we beat this legal system thing to death I would like to re-ask a
question I posed a couple years ago. Molt Taylor said the best way to
protect yourself from a lawsuit is to guarantee the product to fail, injure,
or kill either due to poor design, poor construction or poor pilotage. If
something happens then he has fulfilled his guarantee. If you cannot accept
the guarantee before you purchase the item then he will not feel bad about
losing your business. My question is " Would this work in an American court
of law". I would think that it would as the purchaser knows what he is
getting into and would have written proof that he accepted the risks before
hand.
Before we give the grieving widow money could you tell us what caused the
pilots death in the Rans? What was different about his Rans that all Rans
of that model with those options and whatever engine system used are not
falling out of the sky killing every pilot that flies one? That would tell
me there is a design problem. One aircraft having a problem does not really
tell me there is a design problem. Could Rotax be sued for not putting a
limiter in the system somewhere that does not allow the pilot to take off
before the engine warms up or should it be resonable for them to expect a
pilot to let his engine warm up before flight?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Davis" <davistcs(at)eoni.com> |
| Subject: | EIS effect on Compass? |
I'm getting ready to make up the instrument panel on the Firestar and I'd like
to know if an EIS box has any effect on a compass when it's turned on. The altimeter
will go between them, but on that miniature panel there isn't enough room
to get it very far away.
Terry Davis Eastern Oregon, FS2 (for one), 90% done, 90% left
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS effect on Compass? |
I wouldn't put the compass in the instrument panel. I found with my MKIII
that basic analog instruments with electronic sending units would swing my
compass. Get one of those windshield mounted compasses and mount it as far
as possible from any wire or electrical device.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Davis" <davistcs(at)eoni.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: EIS effect on Compass?
>
> I'm getting ready to make up the instrument panel on the Firestar and I'd
like to know if an EIS box has any effect on a compass when it's turned on.
The altimeter will go between them, but on that miniature panel there isn't
enough room to get it very far away.
> Terry Davis Eastern Oregon, FS2 (for one), 90% done, 90% left
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS effect on Compass? |
The easiest way to determine is to turn the unit on
and off and see if there is any difference as you are
moving the compass around. should not make too much
difference from my experience if its more than 4
inches away. 12 volts don't throw off that strong a
magnetic field.
===========================
> I'm getting ready to make up the instrument panel on
> the Firestar and I'd like to know if an EIS box has
> any effect on a compass when it's turned on. The
> altimeter will go between them, but on that
> miniature panel there isn't enough room to get it
> very far away.
> Terry Davis Eastern Oregon, FS2 (for one), 90%
> done, 90% left
>
>
>
> Click on the
> this
> generous
> _->
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Ron
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EIS effect on Compass? |
| From: | Bob Noyer <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
I have an EIS on one side of the FF's small IP--compass on other side. No
effect on compass. Or did you mean when the compass is turned on!!
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Legal question |
In a message dated 11/23/03 12:38:06 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com writes:
> Will it work in the US? Doubt it. Folks in the legal
> department are so full of themselves they believe
> "everything" is just and right, as long as they can, some
> how, justify it in the legal jungle. "Well, that depends on
> what the definition of "is" is. :-)
>
> Thanks for your post Woody. You are the only one that has
> made any sense of this argument yet, IMOHO.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
I agree!!....unfortunately...that straightforwardness must be sacrificed for
trickiness.
George Randolph
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EIS effect on Compass? |
In a message dated 11/23/03 2:25:26 PM Eastern Standard Time,
aerialron(at)yahoo.com writes:
> The easiest way to determine is to turn the unit on
> and off and see if there is any difference as you are
> moving the compass around. should not make too much
> difference from my experience if its more than 4
> inches away. 12 volts don't throw off that strong a
> magnetic field.
>
volts doesn't throw off any magnetic field...only current does, regardless of
the voltage.
Also the ferromagnetic materials in the plane will take on a magnetic set and
become slightly magnetized themselves...namely the iron bearing materials
including steels, minimaly in stainless, however, and effect the compass reading
over a long period of time as you park your plane in the same orientation of
the same location each time. Therefore it should be mounted as far away from
any iron bearing metal as possible. That's why the middle of the windshield is
usually favored.
George Randolph
Firestar driver...from The Villages
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cross Country Overnight Gear |
> Personally I like a cot
> Rick Neilsen
Rick/All:
I agree with you 100%.
Whatever makes you most comfortable that you have room in
your airplane to fly with, go for it.
When I cross country'd in the Firestar my gear and clothing
was very meager. Graduated to the MK III with its purposely
designed large cargo area (on my airplane) and the amount of
clothing and gear also increased.
The main thing is be comfortable, get a good night's sleep,
and have with you what is necessary to accomplish your
flight with the least possible problems.
Mission: Have fun!
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS effect on Compass? |
I have an EIS. I have a panel mounted compass right on the centerline of my
Mark III ( where neither the pilot or the passenger has a great view, go
figure), and the EIS is to the lower right about 5" from the compass.
Compass reads ok. Sure would hate for my GPS to fail, though. I have it
powered off the plane's bus, so batteries aren't a problem, but I should get
a backup...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: EIS effect on Compass?
>
> I wouldn't put the compass in the instrument panel. I found with my MKIII
> that basic analog instruments with electronic sending units would swing my
> compass. Get one of those windshield mounted compasses and mount it as far
> as possible from any wire or electrical device.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Terry Davis" <davistcs(at)eoni.com>
> To: "Kolb List"
> Subject: Kolb-List: EIS effect on Compass?
>
>
> >
> > I'm getting ready to make up the instrument panel on the Firestar and
I'd
> like to know if an EIS box has any effect on a compass when it's turned
on.
> The altimeter will go between them, but on that miniature panel there
isn't
> enough room to get it very far away.
> > Terry Davis Eastern Oregon, FS2 (for one), 90% done, 90% left
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS effect on Compass? |
> though. I have it powered off the plane's bus, so
> batteries aren't a problem,
but I should get
> a backup...
Duncan/All:
Isn't that what the mag compass is for? backup?
I have a mag compass. Never been able to swing it
correctly. Extremely unreliable. About the only thing I
can do with it is keep from flying in circles. It is panel
mounted, same as it was in the Firestar.
Mag compass was primary directional instrument in the
Firestar. Did all my cross countries with it and sectional.
Worked great.
Have changed out compasses in the MK III, but still get the
same behavior. It is spooked.................
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS effect on Compass? |
What do you mean you don't have much room. Man I got a 2-1/4 AIS, VSI,
G-Meter, Compass, 3-1/8" Sensitive altimeter, hobbs meter, 6 switches,
large display EIS, and the big red light in a FireFly panel. I've sent a
picture directly to you since I cant post it to the list. I have the
compass just under the left hand corner of the EIS with no problem - the
only interference I have seen is when I key the handheld radio, it does
cause a little deflection pulse in the electronic variometer (VSI) like
used in gliders and is very sensitive.
jerb
>
>
>I wouldn't put the compass in the instrument panel. I found with my MKIII
>that basic analog instruments with electronic sending units would swing my
>compass. Get one of those windshield mounted compasses and mount it as far
>as possible from any wire or electrical device.
>
>Rick Neilsen
>Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Terry Davis" <davistcs(at)eoni.com>
>To: "Kolb List"
>Subject: Kolb-List: EIS effect on Compass?
>
>
> >
> > I'm getting ready to make up the instrument panel on the Firestar and I'd
>like to know if an EIS box has any effect on a compass when it's turned on.
>The altimeter will go between them, but on that miniature panel there isn't
>enough room to get it very far away.
> > Terry Davis Eastern Oregon, FS2 (for one), 90% done, 90% left
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS effect on Compass? |
John H,
You probably have magnetized your airframe flying over those big hunks of
iron ore and up there close to the north pole. Now your plane just
automatically wants to head north.
Avionics shops degauss GA aircraft all the time. Sounds like you may need
to have that done to yours. What I've seen them use is a big 18-24" dia
degaussing coil. If you don't know what your doing you can make it even
worst - how you hold it relative to the aircraft while approaching and
especially backing away before de-energizing the coil is extremely important.
jerb
>
>
> > though. I have it powered off the plane's bus, so
> > batteries aren't a problem,
>but I should get
> > a backup...
>
>Duncan/All:
>
>Isn't that what the mag compass is for? backup?
>
>I have a mag compass. Never been able to swing it
>correctly. Extremely unreliable. About the only thing I
>can do with it is keep from flying in circles. It is panel
>mounted, same as it was in the Firestar.
>
>Mag compass was primary directional instrument in the
>Firestar. Did all my cross countries with it and sectional.
> Worked great.
>
>Have changed out compasses in the MK III, but still get the
>same behavior. It is spooked.................
>
>john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS effect on Compass? |
How much current is 12v / by say 20 watts which is
what I would guess the EIS would consume tops. In
other words a negligible magnetic field disturbance.
The aluminum in the mounting frame, and the plastic
pod and the relevant surroundings are none ferrous,
thus no possibility of residual magnetism in anything.
Some simple arranging of the instruments in the
Plastic pod will keep everything just fine.
I would not place the compass on the windshield if in
any way I can avoid it. As I don't want to block/ruin
any of the view. If it can fit into the pod that Kolb
provided then that's where I will place my compass.
==================================
--- GeoR38(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 11/23/03 2:25:26 PM Eastern
> Standard Time,
> aerialron(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
> > The easiest way to determine is to turn the unit
> on
> > and off and see if there is any difference as you
> are
> > moving the compass around. should not make too
> much
> > difference from my experience if its more than 4
> > inches away. 12 volts don't throw off that strong
> a
> > magnetic field.
===================================
> volts doesn't throw off any magnetic field...only
> current does, regardless of
> the voltage.
=====
Ron
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
The Johns are heading for Alaska how about the rest of you? How about gathering
some place and doing a mass Kolb fly in to Oshkosh next summer?
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Magnetized cages & the compass |
When cages are welded up, sometimes there is magnetic energy formed and
retained in the cluster joints. This had happened in the J-6 fuselage I
bought years ago. You can test it easily enough, take a small compass, any
cheap one will do, and move it near the different welded cluster joints of
your airplane. If any are notably magnetized, the compass will react
strongly and erratically to them. Mark those joints for degaussing.
Here's how you do it: remove anything from your airplane that would be
harmed by a strong magnetic field, and then get an electric bulk
cassette/VCR/reel-to-reel tape eraser. Radio shack used to sell them for
about 10-15$, maybe still do? Stand at least 5 feet back from the
magnetized cluster joint, turn the eraser on, and move it toward the joint
in big sweeping spirals, slowly decreasing the size of the spiral as you
get closer, sort of a vortex or cone shape pattern with the affected joint
the apex of the cone. Get real close but don't touch the airplane, (the
magnet will try to suck your hand toward the airframe, one inch is about
the minimum you can safely do) and then smoothly sweep into opposite
direction spirals, do the mirror image reverse of your movement in, and
gradually move back out. Go at a measured pace and be symmetrical. Start
each joint from about 5 feet out. Don't turn it off until you are well away
from the airplane. Do this to each affected joint and when you get done,
your whiskey compass should work correctly. (You did remove it and set it
far away from the airplane first, didn't you?)
Take your time and think. Jerb's comments below are very true, but this is
not rocket science, if I could do it, anybody can do it. If you should
touch the airplane with the degausser at any joint, just redo that joint.
When you get done, go over the airplane again with a little hand held
compass and see if any joints need retreating. Be patient, you may not get
it perfect, but you will certainly make it acceptable.
This technique was taught to me by an old A & P mechanic who has now passed
on that Great Restoration Facility. It sure fixed the J-6 fuselage. Before
the degaussing treatment, the compass would go uselessly erratic anywhere
in the cockpit. After the treatment - perfectly normal.
Besides, think of all the entertainment the local hangar rats will get
watching you do it...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>John H,
>
>Avionics shops degauss GA aircraft all the time. Sounds like you may need
>to have that done to yours. What I've seen them use is a big 18-24" dia
>degaussing coil. If you don't know what your doing you can make it even
>worse - how you hold it relative to the aircraft while approaching and
>especially backing away before de-energizing the coil is extremely important.
>jerb
>
>
>
> >I have a mag compass. Never been able to swing it
> >correctly. Extremely unreliable. About the only thing I
> >can do with it is keep from flying in circles. It is panel
> >mounted, same as it was in the Firestar.
> >
> >Mag compass was primary directional instrument in the
> >Firestar. Did all my cross countries with it and sectional.
> > Worked great.
> >
> >Have changed out compasses in the MK III, but still get the
> >same behavior. It is spooked.................
> >
> >john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Legal question |
> Good question but that raises another question. What if this purchaser
then
> resells the plane to a third party
Perhaps a bit more of the guarantee is giving the purchaser the
oblication to pass on the condition of the guarantee and then pass on the
conditions to the next etc. etc. Purchaser should be willing to do this as
when he sells he also limits his liability.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Vortex generators and flare |
Did some flight testing today with two people at the slow end of the
spectrum. The MKIII with VG's has satisfied me that it is docile at a 45
mph approach speed solo, with good flare, float, and controllability, so
today I tried it with a passenger at a big grass strip. With 380 pounds of
people in it, it flies and behaves well on the approach, but at 45 mph,
full flaps, and idle thrust there was not enough elevator authority to
flare properly. Full aft stick did not produce a corresponding rotation to
a higher angle of attack and the resulting arrival was "firm." The wing was
willing, but the elevators were weak, they just didn't do much of anything.
So it looks like before you can fully utilize the VG's with a passenger and
flaps, you would need to gap seal the horizontal stab to the elevator and
VG the underside of the horizontal stab to increase control authority.
The porcupine gets hairier...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Was EIS effect on Compass, now GPS |
You are right John, the compass is the backup. And often enough, I turn off
the GPS and fly a compass heading with my finger on the sectional. Often
enough to think I'd really rather use it as my emergency backup, after my
primary and backup GPSs fail.... ;<)
Actually, I like to keep my finger on the sectional when I'm over unfamiliar
territory, even with the GPS. An old habit, but I like knowing where stuff
is.
John, I know you got a new GPS recently. I remember you saying you were
real happy with it. I'm flying with a non-aviation Garmin GPS 3+. It's the
same size as the Garmin Pilot, and I'm thinking about getting the Pilot for
the aviation database an dfeatures, and use the 3+ as a backup. The nice
thing about them being the same size is I have a RAM mount for the 3+
already installed. But if another GPS offered a lot better features I'd
want to think about it. Are you still happy with yours? Which one is it?
Hey, I just strapped the new 17-gallon tank into 319DM. I should be flying
next weekend.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: EIS effect on Compass?
>
>
> > though. I have it powered off the plane's bus, so
> > batteries aren't a problem,
> but I should get
> > a backup...
>
> Duncan/All:
>
> Isn't that what the mag compass is for? backup?
>
> I have a mag compass. Never been able to swing it
> correctly. Extremely unreliable. About the only thing I
> can do with it is keep from flying in circles. It is panel
> mounted, same as it was in the Firestar.
>
> Mag compass was primary directional instrument in the
> Firestar. Did all my cross countries with it and sectional.
> Worked great.
>
> Have changed out compasses in the MK III, but still get the
> same behavior. It is spooked.................
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan green" <lgreen1(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | weight and balance |
Could someone on the list please tell me where the datum is, what the CG range
is and what attitude to set my plane at to do a proper w/b? I checked my plans
and assembly manual and could not find this maybe I am missing something. I have
a Firestar I 5 rib with 377 Rotax.
Bryan Green Elgin SC
Firestar I 19LBG 377 BRS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Was EIS effect on Compass, now GPS |
> But if another GPS offered a lot better features I'd want
> to think about it. Are you still happy with yours?
> Which one is it?
Duncan/All:
You will be a lot happier with any GPS that has the Jeppesen
Data Base. Saves a lot of time by eliminating the search
for GPS coordinates. Also good to have restricted areas,
VORs, NDBs, terrain features and highways, to help you
navigate. I guess any of them with a moving map have these
capabilities.
I saved my pennies and got a Garmin GPSMAP 196. After using
a Garmin 55AVD and 95XL for 10 years, it was really nice
learning to use the 196. It has many more capabilities,
information, and a large moving map that updates instantly.
The best price I found, after a long internet search, was
at Aircraft Spruce.
An added advantage of the 196 is its air, land, and sea
capability. Get all three capabilities with one GPS. Does
the same thing on land as my Garmin V, Map Source City
Select. Finds addresses, facilities, and gives directions
to them by roads and streets.
I wear it on my left thigh, same as the other two, because
there is no room left to mount it in the aircraft. Works
good located on the left thigh. I can see it with my
bifocals and operate with left or right hand.
John Williamson flies with the Garmin Pilot. Check with him
for his comments on its use.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kuffel <kuffel(at)cyberport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Legal question |
<>
Unfortunately, in the real world none of this will give much
protection. No-one, not even the first purchaser, can waive the rights
of others to sue the builder, i.e. the mourning widow, the suffering
children, etc.
Tom Kuffel
Whitefish, MT
Building Original FireStar
Awaiting his gold star for not joining the "what's wrong with our tort
system" thread.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie & Meredith Blackwell <wozani(at)optonline.net> |
After following the camping gear thread for a while I think you guys have made
some great choices. I had been into hiking/mountaineering/climbing for many
years and found that many of the items worked well for car camping and probably
plane camping because of their light weight and small size.
I would recommend a Z-Rest pad to be used with either the thermarest pad or
the cot. The nylon cot compresses all the insulation on the bottom of the sleeping
bag and makes for a cold bottom side. And the self inflating pads do occassionally
get leaks at the worst times. The z-rest pad is foam that folds
up and can be used as an extra back rest or rump pad in the plane. I use it as
a passenger back rest in my MKII.
Most new man-made fiber sleeping bags work well and while a pound heavier and
slightly bulkier than down models, they are much cheaper to buy and easier
to clean.
I can drive to Campmor to buy items and have caught their great sales, but another option is the company Sierra Trading Post, which sells seconds and factory over-runs and last year's colors and such. www.sierratradingpost.com .
A great new fabric is the Gore Windstopper. It is usually made into fleece
or wool items and is great at stopping the wind without the scratchy noise of
nylon wind jackets. The fleece gloves are much warmer than they look and the
hats are excellent. I got a nice deal on a jacket and with the collar zippered
up it keeps me nice and warm for most flights by stopping the wind from stealing
my heat.
Both MSR and Peak1 (coleman) make stoves that run on auto fuel, which is easier
to get than white gas or propane. A single teflon pot can contain most stoves
and give you a place to boil coffee or cook food. Metal cups and plates
are great conductors and cool off your food or drink way too fast. Look at lexan
or plastic eating gear instead.
Some companies are marketing a personal ELT that sends your GPS location to
rescuers. This is great for those of us flying without an ELT or want one to
be used for other sports too.
On another thread... maybe discussion of politics, lawyers, insurance companies,
race and religion, or any number of personal topics should be reserved for
bars when we meet in person. I regret joining in and trying to defend lawyers
on this Kolb topic list. It was the wrong place.
My way of making up for it to everyone is to donate another $5 to the list upkeep.
It is the least I can do for wasting people's time and Matt's hard drive
space with non related opinions.
Charlie Blackwell, MKII 503, NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
So if I may reflect a second.You (the attorney) after reviewing the
design "for a couple of days" was able to determine that it was poorly
designed? (Stupid Randy.) Can we also mention the benefit of hindsight
here? You even said something to the effect of "this plane was built
back before we knew as much about 582 cold-seizure problems" or
something to that effect. So I guess the point is should Randy be held
responsible for building something that wasn't idiot proof? I know a
guy that bought a 503 powered plane and was told the main "NO-NO's" of
air-cooled 2 stroke flying and broke the golden rule on day 2 and fried
the engine.should the guy that sold that plane to him and explained the
rules and warned of the consequences be held responsible? Of course
not!!! The guy broke the rules and broke his engine! I know when I
bought my S7, RANS made me sign a big long agreement that said all kinds
of stuff like "I understand that this is a dangerous activity and that
this machine wasn't designed nor guaranteed by GOD to work flawlessly
forever, and I signed the dotted line saying that I UNDERSTAND THAT AND
AM WILLING TO TAKE THE RISK, CAUSE IT LOOKS LIKE A BOAT-LOAD OF FUN!!!"
Sorry , my widow has no right to sue Randy if I get killed in a plane he
designed.PERIOD.
Jeremy Casey
KiloCharlie Drafting, Inc.
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tort reform? |
> You even said something to the effect of "this plane was built
> back before we knew as much about 582 cold-seizure problems" or
> something to that effect.
> Jeremy Casey
Jeremy/All:
I meant to say something about "cold seizures" when this
first was mentioned.
In early 1991, 582's came without thermostats. Me being the
stickler for making everything right obtained and installed
a Rotax supplied thermostat. Remember it cost more than $20
for a thermostat that could be obtained for less than $5
locally.
The engines ran fine and were more reliable without
thermostats, although they ran on the cold side. I wanted
mine to run warm enough to be efficient, 160 to 180F. Since
the thermostat would do this without having to tape up the
radiators to increase engine temps, I thought I was doing
things right. Wrong! There was no provision for bypassing
the thermostat when it was closed. When engine temps got to
the point to open the thermostat, cold water from the
radiators was dumped into the cooling system, rapidly
cooling the cast iron cylinder liner. Pretty soon, I mean
really soon!!! there was no place for the oil film between
the piston and the cylinder wall, and you know the rest of
the story. Didn't take but a split second for this to
happen. The engine came to a stop like it had an engine
brake installed. Mine happened as soon as I came from a
full power take off and climb to cruise transition. When I
came back on the throttle to cruise power, she seized.
Easy to get cold seizure with the old thermostat setup.
With no thermostat, highly unlikely to get a cold seizure,
unless you cranked a cold engine, immediately went to take
off power, and took off.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <jrcasey(at)ldl.net> |
And like I tell my good Friend , Mr. Benton (jr) of Benton&Benton
attorneys at law.
"Bud, I'm glad your not part of that 99% that gives the other 1% a bad
name."
I'm done with the lawyer jokes, back to your planes.weather is clearing
up!!!
(And don't get dead.the paper work would be horrible.)
Jeremy Casey
KiloCharlie Drafting, Inc.
jrcasey(at)ldl.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS effect on Compass? |
Compass, don't need no stinking compass.
I have two planes with EIS's and haven't seen any interference problem
between the EIS and the compass. I don't think you'll have to worry to
much about it.
jerb
>
>I'm getting ready to make up the instrument panel on the Firestar and I'd
>like to know if an EIS box has any effect on a compass when it's turned
>on. The altimeter will go between them, but on that miniature panel there
>isn't enough room to get it very far away.
>Terry Davis Eastern Oregon, FS2 (for one), 90% done, 90% left
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Guy Morgan" <morganguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EIS effect on Compass? |
You would need a "master compass," then you could do a compass swing. You can also use a compass rose. Here's a document detailing how to do it. http://www.campbells.org/Airplanes/CompassSwing.doc
By doing a compass swing with engine running and all instruments on, you compensate
for any error induced by said engine/instruments.
Guy Morgan
--Eat one live toad first thing in the morning and nothing worse will happen to
you the rest of the day.
-- Kolb-List message posted by: "Terry Davis"
I'm getting ready to make up the instrument panel on the Firestar and I'd
like to know if an EIS box has any effect on a compass when it's turned
on. The altimeter will go between them, but on that miniature panel there
isn't enough room to get it very far away.
Terry Davis Eastern Oregon, FS2 (for one), 90% done, 90% left
Set yourself up for fun at home! Get tips on home entertainment equipment, video game reviews, and more here.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: weight and balance |
At 09:32 AM 11/24/2003, you wrote:
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Monument Valley 2004 |
I suggest 16 & 17 May 2004 to be at Monument Valley (UT25).
I have changed the subject so we can keep track of who wants to do what and
want to include everyone's information in the archive.
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolb Kolbra: Jabiru 2200, 503 hours (Soon to be Rotax 912 ULS)
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com (by way of Matt Dralle <nospam(at)matronics.com>) |
)
Anywhere in the southwest is fine by me as well, so long as its got the
scenery. Southern Utah and Grand Canyon area are awfully hard to beat. Do
we need to have a home base, or should we have a planned flight route?
Erich Weaver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley 2004 |
How about starting this gathering at Canyonlands airport (KCNY) on about the
May 14 or 15 and work our way down to Monument Valley. We can get fuel and
spend the night if needed at Monticello and/or Blanding on the way down.
I have been reworking my Spring 2004 and Summer 2004 flying trips With a MV
trip I can knock off two trip at the same time. Here is what they will look
like for me:
http://home.comcast.net/~KolbraPilot3/Spring/gky-ut25-dvo.gif
http://home.comcast.net/~KolbraPilot3/Spring/gg-vn-gky.gif
As usual, everyone is welcome to join and leave the flight at any time and
the more the merrier.
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolb Kolbra: Jabiru 2200, 503 hours (Soon to be 912 ULS)
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley 2004 |
At 12:28 PM 11/25/2003, you wrote:
>
>just where is monument valley, Nevada?
very southern edge of Utah/northern edge of Arizona, just west of the Four
Corners area.
2943de90.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Monument Valley 2004 |
> Personally, I'm divided - I thoroughly enjoyed last years' Monument Valley
trip, and
> wouldn't at all mind doing it again. Any others feel like that ??
Big Lar, and other Kolbers -
I vote for doing the Monument Valley trip again in 2004.
Plenty of fantastic scenery to see nearby (Lake Powell, Canyon deChelly,
etc.)
And best of all (for me), I'll fly up in my own Kolb this time!
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3 in
New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jo and Larry" <joandlp(at)starband.net> |
Would anyone care to share a set of their checklists for a Firestar II with
a 503 DCDI, electric start and oil injection?
Thanks,
You can email them to me if you like.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley 2004 |
----- Original Message -----
Count Uncle Craig in. we can get a helicopter to bring a grill for a pancake breakfast
one day too. No matter the date Milow Tim and I will be there with a least
one kold.
Uncle Craig
MKIIIex912uls
Arizoma
Subject: Kolb-List: Monument Valley 2004
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: filter inspection |
> Paul, put Mobil one in that 912..it likes it.
>
> c-ya
>
> Richard Harris
Richard:
I used Mobil I 15W50 for both 912 and 912S. The last
hundred hours I have been using Shell Rotella T Full
Synthetic 5W40. Wal*Mart usually has it for less than $13 a
gal. Rotella has better numbers than Mobil I, especially
flash point.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Law Stuff 2si crash |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce n' Kathy" <n3nrr(at)erols.com>
> , I have heard no details as to
> cause of failure or crash.
Engine quit, PILOT flew aircraft into the planet at a steep angle, severely
damaging both. (pilot & aircraft) "planet escaped with minor scrapes"
> I don not understand why we are trying to treat the sympthoms not the
> cause. Who is Sueing 2si and for what reason.
> Is there someone out there knows anything about 2si and the actual
> lawsuit?
2SI: Manufacture located in Beaufort,SC. Makers of several types of
military, industrial, and commercial internal combustion engines.
Lawsuit: Man builds an aircraft, man chooses a powerplant, man makes
extensive modifications to exhaust and other systems to fit engine into
aircraft, powerplant allegedly fails on one particular take - off, man
pilots unpowered aircraft into the ground at an angle that is beyond the
airframes ability to disipate his kinetic energy, man and aircraft
experience structural failure. Man waits nearly two years to file lawsuit,
aircraft and engine reported to be unavailable for inspection
> Maybe we could all go there as witnesses and storm the court room and
> explain the ultralight pilot version.
Maybe we should.
>
> Ya fly, Ya might Die, anyone who buys an ultralight!
No doubt, kind of like roller skates and bass boats.
>
> My instructors Teach Engine out)(Unpowered landings ONLY" But that won't
> mean I wont have an accident.
>
Life gives only one guarantee, we all will die.
> Lets attack the problem! The Case that is going against 2si and putting
> them out of business,
2SI is not going out of buisness, they will defend themselves and most
likely win this case. They are simply leaving our small market for greener
pastures with fewer green onions.
Lets be constructive.
Thats how this poor sap got paralyzed, he constructed an airplane.
>
> Being a newbie pilot, so Far all the crashes I have seen or heard of
> show lack of skill or poor judgment. My biggest concern is the people
> flying too low for contitions, and people who dont know anything about
> engines or have any common sense. Most fixed wing accidents due to fuel
> problems, and they do stall spins at low altitudes. Most trike
> accidents caused by people who have never flown a trike but have flown
> fixed wing.
> Just my take!
>
Pretty clear take on things the way I see it. But accidents can and do
happen even to very careful and intellegent folks, life is a dangerous
thing, more so for folks who choose not to live in fear of dying.
Denny Rowe
Mk-3, PA, 2SI powered
>
> Trike pilot
> training in QS
> and PPC
>
> IF you reply Quoted" or Partial" Please use the "DNA"
> --
> Bruce n' Kathy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley 2004 |
I hope it's not contagious.................?? :-) Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Monument Valley 2004
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Count Uncle Craig in. we can get a helicopter to bring a grill for a
pancake breakfast one day too. No matter the date Milow Tim and I will be
there with a least one kold.
> Uncle Craig
> MKIIIex912uls
> Arizoma
> To: 'kolb-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: Kolb-List: Monument Valley 2004
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: filter inspection |
But, 23 years of selling oil filter's to the public has taught me one
thing. If you drive a Toyota you better use a OEM filter. Same goes for
Nissan. These Rotax engines are built by Germans right? Their some pretty
smart fellas! My new engine has a (sorry John H) Fram screwed on it. If it
had been a high hour engine I would had passed.
> But the oil deal still has me thinking....
My girl friends brother owns an auto parts store. We tried to cross
reference a Bosh oil filter for a british import but the only cross
reference he had was for a Fram. He did not have a high opinion of them and
I would hate to damage an expensive car for the sake of spending an extra 5
or 10 bucks on a filter and I am a notorious tightwad. So now I am looking
for a proper bosh filter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Clayton <jspc78(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | 912 engine oil, filters and oil analysis |
Hi Paul/ everyone,
I changed the subject line a little:
At Oshkosh I attended both Phil Lockwood's Rotax
engine classes, and he arranged for a Shell oil
chemist/engineer to address the group, and it was very
interesting and informative! I caught it on tape and
listened later on, several times to be sure I had it
right: Long story short, his message was, synthetic
oil is best for high temp. lubrication, however, if
you are running 100LL instead of mogas, then you are
faced with a problem dispersing the lead that builds
up in the oil. Synthetic oil is very bad at keeping
lead in solution, so it precipitates onto the insides
of the engine (oil passages etc.) and can cause many
well documented problems. The engineer believes
running TCP in the fuel will not help with this
problem of lead in the oil supply. TCP is great at
keeping the lead in solution in the combustion
chamber, but not effective enough to stop the problems
from developing in the oil supply of an engine on a
steady diet of 100LL (crankcase temps too low).
However, mineral based oils, while not as good in high
temp conditions, is very good at keeping lead in
solution. His recommendation: run a semi-synthetic
oil so you get the best of both oil types. In
addition, because the 912 series is structured very
much like a high performance motorcycle engine (common
oil supply for engine, gearbox, and clutch) the best
place to look for oils that meet all the requirements,
are racing motorcycle oils. Castrol makes a
semi-synthetic oil with all these qualities that is
called, of all things GPS! It is imported from Europe
by Castrol, and costs around $7 or $8 per quart. I
was already aware of the Castrol GPS oil, and when I
brought it up to the (Shell) engineer, he agreed that
would be the best oil he is aware of for the 912
series (also listed in Rotax SB on recommended oils).
He also mentioned Shell is putting out much effort to
blend up an oil specifically for the 912 series
engines, but it is awhile off. Another point the
engineer made is in addition to semi synthetic oil, he
said the next best way to deal with lead buildup is to
change the oil more often than the standard 100 hours,
something I understand many folk do.
Paul, if others are interested, are you able to get
the Castrol GPS through automotive channels for a more
reasonable price?
I see many on this list with much more experience
driving the 912 than I have, have had good service
using the automotive synthetics, so I offer this as
theoretical info. My formative years were spent
building and destroying high performance motorcycle
engines, and VW/Porsche engines, and everything the
oil engineer said fit with my past experiences. Make
your own assessment please.
Regarding the oil filters, IMHO cutting the filter
open every time gives valuable trend info: most
engines throw metal for awhile before failing. Also
it's a habit learned from the GA world :) I am also a
big fan of oil analysis. Over the internet, several
quality labs will send many sample jars, offering
quantity discounts so it can make sense to test the
oil, most every time, at oil change time....or at
least every 200 hours or so ;-)
So there is my 75 cents worth. Happy Thanksgiving
everyone!
-Jim
Jim Clayton
California
Mark-3X, Building
<ppetty@c-gate.net>
Kolbers,
Just sitting here fixing to head to the shop thinking
about my new engine and wondering about a few thing's.
First is filter cutting and inspection. Do you guy's
cut your filters and look for metal? Second, are there
any expert's on the list that have knowledge of engine
oil's? The fellow I bought the 912 from ran Valvoline
dura blend oil for the 50 hrs or so it was in the
Zenith. I'm a Pennzoil man myself....
________________________________________________________________________________
Kolbers,
If any of you are in the beginning stages of building (like me) get yourself a
laser level. Coolest tool I have ran up on yet! Pop's bought this thing to help
in building a green house. And I have used it to level my saw horses. I can
see where this tool would come in handy in a wide variety of places. When set
up on a tripod, you can strike a level beam of red laser light anywhere from 0
degrees horizontal to 90 degrees vertical. After clearing out my work area last
night I played with the thing for a half an hour. One word of caution though,
don't let the beam strike you in the eye! Ask me how I know this.I will post
a few photos in photoshare.
Happy Thanksgiving
pp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
I have one for my MKIII with a 582, but maybe it will give you some ideas -
First of all, the checklist is printed off on the computer so I can tape it
over one side of the "Remove Before Flight/Caution!" tag that is attached
to the parachute pin. That way, when I start the preflight, I have to pull
the safety pin for the parachute to do the preflight, that saves me
forgetting to remove the pin. The list itself looks like this:
Preflight
pitot tubes
gas cap
snake check
oil tanks
aileron trim
Start/runup
altimeter set
seat belts
doors
flaps/trim
avionics/switches
instruments
mag check
Shut down
flaps/trim normal
all switches off
GPS off
The "snake check" part of the preflight is because I have the center
section covered with rubber snakes most of the year to keep Tweetie Bird
from building his house in my airplane. It would not be good if I started
up & forgot to remove them.
I don't list all the numerous details of my preflight walkaround such as
the nuts, bolts, pins, etc. because I do it the same way every time and the
eye and the mind naturally flows from one item to the next. So I just have
on the list a few mandatory items that can vary from one flight to the
next. You may want to do this differently.
On the other side of the tag, I have taped on a list of all the local radio
frequencies.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Would anyone care to share a set of their checklists for a Firestar II with
>a 503 DCDI, electric start and oil injection?
>
>Thanks,
>You can email them to me if you like.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
OK that does it! Right after Thanksgiving I will start the
rehab of old "Haley's Comet" and go along with you guys.
Hopefully I can clean it up some and be able to keep up this
time.
What about SWRFI? It's being held May 13,14,and 15th, 2004.
If you planned this trip a little later I could do both.
But, either way, I plan to do the Monument Valley trip or
what ever the group plans to do. I enjoyed the last trip I
made with John Hauck, John Williamson, John Bickham and
Steve Green to Kitty Hawk/London KY and have been itching to
go again ever since.
Gary Haley, Houston, TX
1997 Mark III/912, N100GH
320 Hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | reply to message |
. By the way, how do you reply to a message
and only "coyp" part of it instead of the whole thing?
AzDave
from the outlook express inbox screen hit the "tools" button then choose "options"
then the file tab "send" about 1/2 way down the page is a line that says
" include message in reply" UN check it. then click "ok"
When you want to reply to a message you will need to "click and drag" the mouse
to hilight the area you want to quote in the reply. then you need to copy that
by hitting "edit" then "copy" (control C is a shortcut) now when you hit
reply there will be no message in the window. but the "to and subjuct " lines
will be filled out. you may have to change the subject line to match your
needs. now click the mouse in the message window and hit " edit" and "paste"
(control V is the shortcut) then type your message.
the other option is to reply as usual then click and drag to hilight the area you
dont want to quote and hit "edit" "cut" you may have to do this befor and
after the area you want to quote.
if you follow the first example and want to quote the entire message you can "click
and drag" the entire message OR hit "edit" then "select all" (control A
for shortcut) then "copy , reply and paste" as per above.
I hope this helps
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
Kolbers,
Just sitting here fixing to head to the shop thinking about my new engine and wondering
about a few thing's. First is filter cutting and inspection. Do you guy's
cut your filters and look for metal? Second, are there any expert's on the
list that have knowledge of engine oil's? The fellow I bought the 912 from ran
Valvoline dura blend oil for the 50 hrs or so it was in the Zenith. I'm a Pennzoil
man myself.... My experience in the automotive market of some 23 years
has proven to me that changing "brands" of engine oil does not "hurt" an engine.
Paul Petty
yes i cut my filters apart.... if i were to fine metal chips it would be time to
overhaul..... my experience in changing oil types is that some oils dont mix
well.. when changing do your best to drain every drop and change the filter
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | 912 engine oil, filters and oil analysis |
Good post.
For similar reasons I switched to semi synthetic a
couple of years ago. I used Mobil-1 exclusively in 3
cars from new all of which made it past the century
mark before were sold. However in my current vehicles
I have been using semi synthetic since new. If I
recall correctly, full synthetic will not stick to
bare metal without running off as well as mineral oil.
Mobil-1 left the aviation market because of just those
problems in the 80's. The cams on continental engines
would go dry enough to be ruined, in addition to the
lead absorption problems. They ended up spending a lot
of money OH many engines for the users of their
Av-mobil-1.
Anyway I had some personal experience with mobil-1 in
aviation many years ago, and based on it I would not
use a full synthetic in any 4 stroke aviation motor.
(and now not even in my automobiles )
However semi synthetic *will* give you the benefits of
both. In fact I see no reason why you cannot in a 4-qt
sump dump 2 qt of Mobil-1 and 2 qt of brand A good
quality mineral oil. Make your own compatible mixture,
at least you'd be certain you get the oils that you
think are the best.
As to opening oil filters to check for metal I always
do in airplanes. I also send my oil for analyses.
Between the visual inspection of the filter element,
and what the lab is reporting I know exactly how my
motor is doing. By the way from my own testing the
best oil for Lycomings (probably others too) is the
new Aeroshell 100 + (note the plus). I have been using
both Chevron and phillips x/c 20w-50w for years.
However the wear patterns with the aeroshell 100+ was
markedly better, than even the semi synthetic Aero
Shell, and the Phillips X/C oils. I am told that the
Chevron 20-50 oil is the same as the Phillips XC. Now
the Rotax 912 may be just a bit too slender for the
heavy rough and tumble single grade Aeroshell-100. I
would if I had a 912 go to mixture of Mobil-1 and a
good mineral oil on a 50/50 in summer and if winters
are really cold and I wanna fly then 70S-30m ratio.
We have the flexibility to do whatever we want with
the experimental sticker on the side.
=======================================
--- Jim Clayton wrote:
>
>
Synthetic oil is very bad at keeping
> lead in solution, so it precipitates onto the
> insides
> of the engine (oil passages etc.) and can cause many
> well documented problems. The engineer believes
> running TCP in the fuel will not help with this
> problem of lead in the oil supply. TCP is great at
> keeping the lead in solution in the combustion
> chamber, but not effective enough to stop the
> problems
> from developing in the oil supply of an engine on a
> steady diet of 100LL (crankcase temps too low).
> However, mineral based oils, while not as good in
> high
> temp conditions, is very good at keeping lead in
> solution. His recommendation: run a semi-synthetic
> oil so you get the best of both oil types.
=====
Ron
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 engine oil, filters and oil analysis |
Ron/All:
Today's technology is great. I have more than 275,000 miles
on my Dodge/Cummins. Change the oil on schedule at 6,000
mile intervals. Also the filter, a standard Fram. Well,
the next change will be NAPA Gold filter because of the good
buy I got on them. Didn't think about it at the time, but I
could have gotten some for my 912S at the same time. The
Cummins has been run exclusively on Shell Rotella T 15W40
organic oil.
> I used Mobil-1 exclusively in 3
> cars from new all of which made it past the century
> mark before were sold.
> However in my current vehicles
> I have been using semi synthetic since new. If I
> recall correctly, full synthetic will not stick to
> bare metal without running off as well as mineral oil.
I used Mobil I 15W50 in the 912 for 1135 hours with no
visible wear, engine or gear box.
Used Mobil I 15W50 in the 912S for about 500 hours. Had the
gear box apart at 400 and 500 hours. No visible wear to any
part of gear box.
Changed to Shell Rotella T Full Synthetic 5W40 for the 912S
at about 500 hours. Seems to be running great on it. Cost
was the contributing factor for changing from Mobil to
Rotella. I get the full synthetic Rotella for less than $13
from Wal*Mart.
The 912/912S are designed to run on auto fuel and auto oil,
unless they have changed recently. Erick Tucker, Rotax
since day one, recommended I run Alcor TCP in the 912S when
I am on cross country flights and a steady diet of 100LL. I
have done that with the 912S, but did not when running 100LL
in the 912. As far as I could tell, there was no lead
problem with the 912. When I am flying cross countries, I
am putting a lot of hours on the engine in a short period of
time. Engine does not rest more than a few hours. Oil is
changed at normal intervals on long cross countries, but
much frequently when the airplane is not flying much, like
now in the colder weather.
> However semi synthetic *will* give you the benefits of
> both. In fact I see no reason why you cannot in a 4-qt
> sump dump 2 qt of Mobil-1 and 2 qt of brand A good
> quality mineral oil. Make your own compatible mixture,
> at least you'd be certain you get the oils that you
> think are the best.
I am not a petroleum/lubrication chemist/scientist, but I,
personally, would not try your homemade mixture of organic
and synthetic oil. The primary reason I use full synthetic
oil is the high temps I operate the engine oil. Shell
Rotella T full synthetic has a higher flash point and other
numbers than Mobil I. To cut the synthetic in half with
organic would also reduce the ability of the mixture to
compensate for high engine oil temps.
> Now
> the Rotax 912 may be just a bit too slender for the
> heavy rough and tumble single grade Aeroshell-100. I
> would if I had a 912 go to mixture of Mobil-1 and a
> good mineral oil on a 50/50 in summer and if winters
> are really cold and I wanna fly then 70S-30m ratio.
Still do not agree with the paragraph above, but like you
say in the following paragraph, "we have the flexibility to
to whatever we want with the experimental sticker on the
side", even if it kills us. :-)
> We have the flexibility to do whatever we want with
> the experimental sticker on the side.
And yes, I still use those terrible Fram oil filters that
most folks say are worthless. However, no one has offered
to answer my question of many moons ago and provide some
hard evidence that Fram is as bad as you all make them out
to be.
While I am on an oil roll, Rotax recommends 4 stroke
motorcycle oil to help lubricate the gears in the reduction
drive of the 912/912S. Motorcycle people say use motorcycle
oil to lubricate the gears in the 4 stoke transmissions. I
am having good luck with my Suzuki DRZ400E 4 stroke thumper
and Mobil I. However, I switched to Shell Rotella Synthetic
on the Suzuki at the same time I switched on the 912S.
To each his own,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
For those who care to, here is a site on the filters I sell.
http://www.wixfilters.com/productinformation/gff_oilfilters.html
pp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Timandjan(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Static port ideas |
I put my winter enclosure back on the Firestar2 this week, and since my
normal summer flying is with an open cockpit my ASI is set up with out a static
port, seems to be pretty accurate when checked with my GPS etc. but now with the
enclosure it's way off, any ideas out there how to add a static port to my
exhisting system simply? Would one of those aluminum static port heads from
aircraft spruce work just attchaed to the outside of the nose cone. A simple second
line vented there??
The heater I built last winter sure works great, it's a whole different
airplane with doors.
thanks
Tim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Victor Catalanotto" <Victor(at)bellanca.us> |
| Subject: | Static port ideas |
Tim
This one works great. See attached pictures.
Victor Catalanotto
1972 BSV 17-30A
Web Site www.bellanca.us
N8281R
KGPM
Mansfield, TX
Victor(at)bellanca.us
Mobile 817-925-2532
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Timandjan(at)aol.com
Subject: Kolb-List: Static port ideas
I put my winter enclosure back on the Firestar2 this week, and since my
normal summer flying is with an open cockpit my ASI is set up with out a
static port, seems to be pretty accurate when checked with my GPS etc. but
now with the enclosure it's way off, any ideas out there how to add a static
port to my exhisting system simply? Would one of those aluminum static port
heads from aircraft spruce work just attchaed to the outside of the nose
cone. A simple second line vented there??
The heater I built last winter sure works great, it's a whole different
airplane with doors.
thanks
Tim
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static port ideas |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Timandjan(at)aol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Static port ideas
Would one of those aluminum static port heads from
> aircraft spruce work just attchaed to the outside of the nose cone. A
simple second
> line vented there??
>
>
>>
> thanks
>
> Tim
>
> Tim,
I have the combo Pitot/Static port Aircraft Spruce sells on the bottom of my
Mk-3s nose cone and it works fine, airspeed seems right on the money across
the whole speed range.
Dennis Rowe
Mk-3, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com> |
| Subject: | aileron question |
All:
I have a question about how are the kolb ailerons mount?
The aileron ribs have one full span tube and one shorter tube that
rivets to the full span tube. This creates the famous Homer bumps.
Now my question is, are the ailerons mounted to the wings with the Homer
bumps on the top or on the bottom? I am repairing a firestar but I do
not have the original plans. The one I am repairing has them on the top.
Is this correct?
EZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Static port ideas |
I experimented with several static locations. It seemed wherever the static
port was located where a significant obstruction was close downstream I
couldn't get a reasonable reading. I stopped after trying a port from
aircraft spruce that I installed in the bottom of the nose cone - it was PN
15165. Drilled one hole, tightened it down, slid a 1/4 ID tube on it and
hooked it up to the ASI, ALT, and VSI. Works ok. It's near the centerline,
a few inches from the end of the nose cone. I tried a convenient location
first, and haven't tried another so far.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Timandjan(at)aol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Static port ideas
>
> I put my winter enclosure back on the Firestar2 this week, and since my
> normal summer flying is with an open cockpit my ASI is set up with out a
static
> port, seems to be pretty accurate when checked with my GPS etc. but now
with the
> enclosure it's way off, any ideas out there how to add a static port to my
> exhisting system simply? Would one of those aluminum static port heads
from
> aircraft spruce work just attchaed to the outside of the nose cone. A
simple second
> line vented there??
>
>
> The heater I built last winter sure works great, it's a whole different
> airplane with doors.
>
> thanks
>
> Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan green" <lgreen1(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: aileron question |
Bryan Green (Elgin SC)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eugene Zimmerman" <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: aileron question
>
>
> All:
>
> I checked my plans and plane the long tube is on the bottom with the Homer
bumps on the bottom of the trailing edge same for the elevators. Do not
archive.
Bryan Green Elgin SC
Firestar I 19LBG 377 BRS
>> Now my question is, are the ailerons mounted to the wings with the Homer
> bumps on the top or on the bottom?>
> EZ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan green" <lgreen1(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Static port ideas |
Mine is set up this way and it seems to be in line with my GPS but I do not
have a full enclosure.
Bryan Green Elgin SC
Firestar I 19LBG 377 BRS
----- Original Message -----
From: <Timandjan(at)aol.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Static port ideas
Would one of those aluminum static port heads from
> aircraft spruce work just attchaed to the outside of the nose cone. A
simple second
> line vented there??
>
>
> thanks
>
> Tim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi(at)supernet.com> |
Hey Guys,
I would like some feedback or opinions on electric start options for
a 582 w/C gear box. Which one is the best/worst, pros/cons, anything?
Thanks -- Earl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley 2004 |
So far, the wife and I are planning to attend. I will trailer the Firestar,
not sure if I can keep up, but I have been known to have a good time by my
self before.
Larry,Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley 2004 |
At 08:54 PM 11/26/2003, you wrote:
>
>What kind of facility do they have at Page that would
>compare to the facility at Gouldings, Monument Valley?
>
>Was nice at Gouldings to have Larry's camper with awning and
>chairs to sit in the shade in the desert.
>
>Thanks for the time and your attention...............
>
>john h
Will Larry bring pictures of his plane to show us. Do we have to look at them
to sit in his camper??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley 2004 |
At 09:28 PM 11/26/2003, you wrote:
>
> >Was nice at Gouldings to have Larry's camper with awning and
> >chairs to sit in the shade in the desert.
>
>Will Larry bring pictures of his plane to show us. Do we have to look at them
>to sit in his camper??
Sorry - I thought you were talking about my pal "biglar(at)gogittum.com".
Not Larry Cottrell - who actually has a plane that "flys" and some great CDs.
But I know - E' Tu Brutus!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 engine oil, filters and oil analysis |
In regards to my home made brew. :-)
I kinda like it I was mixing Mobil-1 with regular
$1.20 mineral oil in my old Suburban, it run just fine
on it. Today at Walmart I figured out that I best
stick with my usual Syntec Blend oil as when I did the
math it turns out that Syntec is actually less
expensive per qt than if I made my own concoction. On
the other side of the coin I would know that at least
50% of the blend is synthetic where with my usual
Syntec I really have no idea what the ratios are.
==========================
>
> I am not a petroleum/lubrication chemist/scientist,
> but I,
> personally, would not try your homemade mixture of
> organic
> and synthetic oil. The primary reason I use full
> synthetic
> oil is the high temps I operate the engine oil.
> Shell
> Rotella T full synthetic has a higher flash point
> and other
> numbers than Mobil I. To cut the synthetic in half
> with
> organic would also reduce the ability of the mixture
> to
> compensate for high engine oil temps.
>
> > Now
> > the Rotax 912 may be just a bit too slender for
> the
> > heavy rough and tumble single grade Aeroshell-100.
> I
> > would if I had a 912 go to mixture of Mobil-1 and
> a
> > good mineral oil on a 50/50 in summer and if
> winters
> > are really cold and I wanna fly then 70S-30m
> ratio.
>
> Still do not agree with the paragraph above, but
> like you
> say in the following paragraph, "we have the
> flexibility to
> to whatever we want with the experimental sticker on
> the
> side", even if it kills us. :-)
>
> > We have the flexibility to do whatever we want
> with
> > the experimental sticker on the side.
>
> And yes, I still use those terrible Fram oil filters
> that
> most folks say are worthless. However, no one has
> offered
> to answer my question of many moons ago and provide
> some
> hard evidence that Fram is as bad as you all make
> them out
> to be.
==================================
You would never hear me say anything negative about
Fram as I use it myself. I started using Fram
exclusively after Consumer reports back 10 years ago
or more actually went and researched most all popular
oil filters. Fram came up number one back then, they
have improved their filters since then even more. So
if anyone says to you their filter is better ask them
how small a particle it traps on the first oil pass.
Mobile came out with a new Filter a couple of years
ago (guess what they called it) which has also a real
good micron trapping capability. But in my opinion
when you get to below 3 or 4 microns I don't think it
really makes any difference for longevity. Simply the
stuff is too small to cause any meaningful damage.
If you are happy with full synthetic then stay with
it. If I were you though I would not worry about the
flash point of the oil. If your oil (mineral) has
reached its flash point in your engine somehow, you
have bigger problems to worry about than the oil
breaking down.
======================================
======================================
> While I am on an oil roll, Rotax recommends 4 stroke
>
> motorcycle oil to help lubricate the gears in the
> reduction
> drive of the 912/912S. Motorcycle people say use
> motorcycle
> oil to lubricate the gears in the 4 stoke
> transmissions. I
> am having good luck with my Suzuki DRZ400E 4 stroke
> thumper
> and Mobil I. However, I switched to Shell Rotella
> Synthetic
> on the Suzuki at the same time I switched on the
> 912S.
>
> To each his own,
>
> john h
>
>
=====
Ron
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Synthetic Oil and 100 LL Gas |
| From: | "Lawrence M. Rice" <tailwind5(at)juno.com> |
Remember the Philips full synthetic aviation oil that was teken off the
market some years ago? It was because it did not handle lead deposits
well, especially in engines that sat a lot.
Larry the MicroMong guy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 engine oil, filters and oil analysis |
Jerb/All:
Happy Thanksgiving everybody! Wet and nasty in Alabama this
morning.
> Obviously still not flying enough John.
Probably not. Don't have time to fly all the time.
In the 912 do you
> use synthetic oil?
I have used Mobil I exclusively in 912/912S, except the last
100 hours on the 912S ran Shell Rotella T full synthetic.
A motor glider who has a 912
> commented that he runs auto gas as much as possible but
> if he has to use av gas as there is a problem where the
> synthetic will not suspend the lead like normal oil?
The 912/912S were designed to run on auto fuel and auto oil.
I do the same thing, however, on cross country flights it
is difficult to get auto fuel and I run 100LL. Eric Tucker
told me to run Alcor TCP when I run 100LL. I do. Change
oil often cause the synthetic does not hold the lead in
suspension like dino oil does.
Inspection of valve covers, rocker arms, oil tank, and gear
box indicted no lead deposits or contamination in my 912 or
912S.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Bill/Gang:
> He advised me
> that I should either us the "original" Toyota brand filter or a Wix
> filter because they have an anti-drainback valve; he said over the the
> years he has seen too many engines damaged from people using cheap
> filters.
The Fram "DG" filters have silicone seals and anti-siphon
valve. I could tell the difference between the two. The DG
keeps the oil in the tank from leaking down into the
crankcase during prolonged shutdown.
> I think the NAPA Gold filter may be a Wix brand.
Me too.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Spring Steel Gear Legs |
I just got my new spring steel gear legs installed in my VW powered MKIII. These
are the optional gear legs that the New Kolb sells now for $400+. Thanks to
Bill George who sold them to me slightly used at a bargain price. My plane sits
approximately an inch higher and has a 4 inch wider track. I only have one flight
under my belt with the new gear but they give me a much smoother ride on
my sod strip with little of the cable slap that I normally hear and the landing
is much more cushioned. Bill seemed to think they were too springy but they
are like the gear that were on the Kolb demonstrator (Fat Albert) and they were
just right.
The gear are 2.5 inches longer outside the cage sockets than the aluminum legs
but 6 inches shorter inside the socket. The Old Kolb made the gear legs just like
these but then welded a 6 inch 4130 tube to the socket end to better spread
the landing loads.
I'm concerned that the landing loads are concentrated so much closer to the end
of the landing gear sockets. Yet it would take a really bad landing to transmit
as much stress on the gear sockets as the aluminum gear legs because the steel
gear are so springy. I wonder if it would be possible to weld a pipe on the
socket end like the Old Kolb did without effecting the spring in the steel.
I suppose I could put a sleeve inside the gear sockets and grind the knob on the
socket end so that it fits into the sleeve.
For now I'm happy with the gear but wouldn't recommend the gear at their full price.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
Kirk and list, on our field there are 2 Flight Stars. One-582 and one-hks. I
have flown them both. These numbers are not exact but: With 2 on board, the
Rotax power had us off in about 150 ft. and climbing out at 800 fpm. The HKS
had us off in 200 ft. and climbing out at 5-600 fpm.. Still producing it's hp
at the high rpm's, the HKS was probably not much quieter but did sound nice
and smooth. Didn't quite have the snap of the 582 but the HKS did a fine job.
When looking at things such as cost, fuel burn?, not mixing and burning oil,
dependability, etc., The HKS may be worth looking into? I enjoyed the Flight
Star flights with either one, keeping in mind that these planes are built very
light.
http://www.ultralightflyer.com/hks/ Here is a link to more info on the
HKS
Fly Safe
Bob Griffin
MK3 618 powered
upstate NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
Bob/ List
A good comparison. I wonder how much weight difference there is between
the Flightstar and a Mark 3? Those are pretty good figures. Not a 912 but
not bad. Do you know how many hours are on HKS engine and if the guy has
any problems with it? Thanks! Kirk
" there are 2 Flight Stars. One-582 and one-hks. I
> have flown them both. These numbers are not exact but: With 2 on board,
the
> Rotax power had us off in about 150 ft. and climbing out at 800 fpm. The
HKS
> had us off in 200 ft. and climbing out at 5-600 fpm.."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi(at)supernet.com> |
| Subject: | Oil Injection Ratio? |
Hey Guys,
I have a lot of 2 stroke experience, but not with oil injection. I
was wondering what the actual average fuel/oil ratio is? I thought that
I read somewhere in the manual that it could range from 50-70:1. My fuel
capacity will be 18 gal. and the current oil reservoir is 44 oz. Are
most of you 2 strokers using the big 2.5 liter rotax oil tank? -- Earl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
Cutting the filter is an essential element in detecting wear as early as possible.
Don is absolutely correct, with the possible exception of using a magnifying
glass. All 4-stroke engines wear some and generate some very small particles
of metal between oil changes, and the normal amount can be seen with the naked
eye. If you see chunks larger than specks or a lot more than normal then it
is time to look for where it is coming from. But tiny speck size (visible with
the naked eye) bits of metal are absolutely normal. You will only know "how
much is normal" after you've cut and examined a few filters when there is no problem.
Oil analysis is an okay thing to do if you want but not nearly as good or useful
as cutting and examining the filter. Oil analysis won't tell you there is a
big chunk of aluminum sitting at the bottom of the sump or in the screen or in
the filter. Oil analysis is good for establishing a baseline metal content in
your oil. Once you have a base line future oil analyses might enable you to spot
changes. I used to do oil analysis on every oil change on our Cherokee but
stopped doing it because I kept getting inconsistent reports from the same lab
which led me to believe the results had limited value. Cutting and examining
the filter, though is a must at every oil change.
Thom Riddle
FAA Mechanic Certificate #2227907
Buffalo, NY
early FS 377 , for fun
Cherokee 140, for going places
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ALLENB007(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley 2004 |
Please remove me from your list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
>
> Do they use the HKS as a pusher ?
I know they use them on trikes.....Kirk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Homers Bumps |
Paul
I'm not a structural engineer but I would be very careful eliminating the
bumps from the leading edges. There can be allot of torque on that
connection to the control surfaces. It would seem that if it was strong
enough they would suggest it as a option like they do on the trailing edge.
Set up a test and compare the strengths of both joints on a section of a
control surface and measure the maximum pressure before failure. You may
also want to consider the fatigue resistance of your design change.
My $.02 cents worth
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Homers Bumps
>
> Kolbers,
> Last night while preparing to start wing construction a thought hit me.
(scary concept I know) However here it goes.... During my control surface
construction I chose the "radius" method to eliminate the bumps on the
trailing edges. Why not use small square gussets on the leading edges
instead of the way the plans call for. I made up one out of scrap and used
four rivets. Two on the leading edge and two on the rib. Looks real nice!
But is it as strong? Looks stronger. More work but hey, whole lot cleaner
looking.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Injection Ratio? |
>
> capacity will be 18 gal. and the current oil reservoir is 44 oz. Are
> most of you 2 strokers using the big 2.5 liter rotax oil tank? -- Earl
Earl/All:
Figuring at a straight 50 to 1, 44 oz is good for 17.2 gal.
That seems to work out just a tad on the shy side, but if
you figure in warmup, taxi, and descent time, it would
probably be just about right. I would no hesitate to fly in
that configuration.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> Speaking of tips, is there an easy way to mask things like stars for painting?
Will freezer paper work? I'm using the good poly tape but there's still some
bleeding under the tape where 2 pieces overlap.
>
> James Tripp
James/All:
Use your finger nail to crease the polytape down where it
intersects another piece of tape. This will help prevent
bleeding under.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net> |
Try blue painter's tape available at yourlocal hwd or paint store. I've
never had bleed under.
DALE SELLERS
Georgia Ultra Star
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: tip's
>
>
> > Speaking of tips, is there an easy way to mask things like stars for
painting? Will freezer paper work? I'm using the good poly tape but there's
still some bleeding under the tape where 2 pieces overlap.
> >
> > James Tripp
>
>
> James/All:
>
> Use your finger nail to crease the polytape down where it
> intersects another piece of tape. This will help prevent
> bleeding under.
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
James,
Depending on what paint you use, and how much the backround color coats have
filled the weave. If the weave is still very visable..bleeding will be more
likely than if it is filled to the point where it cant be seen.
Also a very good precaution is to shoot a coat of the backround color after
you mask the object.
For instance..IF you are doing...say..a white star on a blue backround,
mask the star , then shoot a coat of blue along the edge of your tape. If it
is going to bleed, you wont see it...this effectively seals the edge of the
tape better..then after thats is dry...shoot the white for the star over it.
If it is a stripe...the same method will apply.
using poly-tone with extra reducer and retarder to get a better gloss will
also enhance the paints bleeding under the tape edges. I think its the
slower drying maybe..or that its just thinner in viscosity maybe...but it
bleeds easier, so be careful here.
I also have found that vinyl pinstriping tape for a cleaner edge works
better than the "Blue" or "Purple" painters tape (Poly-eethelene sumpthin or
other stuff)...but that blue is alot better than regular white of beige
paper masking tape.
After many struggles with bleeding while painting the "FlagFly"...I went to
decalzone.com and ordered vinyl stars and found it alot
better..cheaper...easier...and prettier than masking them.
I used the blue 3-M vinyl pinstripe tape for the edges of all the stripes,
as it also lays a curve better, seals better, and removes better than any
painters tape you can find. Then use the blue painters tape over the
pinstripe tape to widen and fill Plus shot a coat of base color over every
single edge.I got really nice clean edges then..(finally)
I think I must have had about 4700 feet of "edges" in my paint job...and I
didnt get it right the first time. No amount of extra steps to make sure you
have a good tape edge seal is too much compared to rubbing off an entire
paint job on a control surface or a stabilizer with a case of paper towels
and a gallon of MEK Thinner.
I have a few pics in the painting section of my website...
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
James...my son just reminded me that we also used a small paint brush
(pinstripe brush) and dobbed the corners where tapes overlapped with base
color also to help seal those gaps too!
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | What Listers Are Saying III |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Transparent Fuel Tubing |
Can anyone recommend any 1/4" and 5/16" fuel line tubing that does not
discolor? I use see-through tubing as part of my fuel system to see the
fuel level when it gets down to the last 2.5 gallons, and every year I
replace it because it turns dark and hard to see through.
If anyone knows of any that stays transparent, who did you buy it from, and
what do I ask for?
Thanks
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tip's - Why drip 3/16" rivets |
What is the reason for and benefit to dipping the 3/16" rivets in oil?
jerb
snip...
> Things like "dip them 3/16" rivets in oil before snapping
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transparent Fuel Tubing |
> If anyone knows of any that stays transparent, who did you buy it from, and
> what do I ask for?
>
> Thanks
> Richard Pike
Richard/All:
I use Tygon. Get from Acft Spruce. It will stain a little,
but last many years. I use it for my fuel sight gauge.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tip's - Why drip 3/16" rivets |
I had and still have a problem with one of my L brackets on the fuselage
tube. The rivets snap before the tighten down. Travis at TNK told me that
ray dips his in oil and they would pull down all the way.
Tried it didn't work.....
pp
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerb" <ulflyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: tip's - Why drip 3/16" rivets
>
> What is the reason for and benefit to dipping the 3/16" rivets in oil?
> jerb
>
> snip...
> > Things like "dip them 3/16" rivets in oil before snapping
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jtripp(at)elmore.rr.com |
| Subject: | Re: tip's - Why drip 3/16" rivets |
Paul,
My 3/16" rivets did the same thing so I left them that way. They seem pretty secure
so I figured they were seated good enough.
James Tripp
FS II
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Petty <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Date: Friday, November 28, 2003 4:30 pm
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: tip's - Why drip 3/16" rivets
>
> I had and still have a problem with one of my L brackets on the
> fuselagetube. The rivets snap before the tighten down. Travis at
> TNK told me that
> ray dips his in oil and they would pull down all the way.
> Tried it didn't work.....
>
>
>
>
> _-
> _-> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
> ========================================================================
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SGreenpg(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Oil Injection Ratio? |
In a message dated 11/28/03 9:45:20 AM Eastern Standard Time,
emzi(at)supernet.com writes:
I
was wondering what the actual average fuel/oil ratio is? I thought that
I read somewhere in the manual that it could range from 50-70:1. My fuel
capacity will be 18 gal. and the current oil reservoir is 44 oz. Are
most of you 2 strokers using the big 2.5 liter rotax oil tank? -- Earl
Earl,
I kept track of my oil to fuel consumption very closely for the first 50
hours or so and it averaged about 62 to 1 . I called Lockwood, where I purchased
the engine, and they said that was about right. My engine is a 582.
Steven G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Guy Morgan" <morganguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tip's - Why drip 3/16" rivets |
I had and still have a problem with one of my L brackets on the
fuselagetube. The rivets snap before the tighten down. Travis at
TNK told me that
ray dips his in oil and they would pull down all the way.
Tried it didn't work.....
What kind of rivets are you using? Sounds like the grip is too short. Not sure,
though, without knowing what you're using. We use CherryMax mostly on our helos
if you can't get to 'em to buck 'em. Where the stem breaks off tells you if
the grip is too short, too long, or correct on a Cherry. I don't know about any
rivet that would snap pulling it. Don't think I'd want to be using them on
a structural joint. Maybe it's just me, but I'm a stickler where structural integrity
is concerned. Bad thing about Cherry's is they require a special pneumatic
puller that costs around $1000. Don't think you can do it with a hand puller.
You sure couldn't snap one off by hand.
Guy Morgan
Galveston, TX (wanna-be Kolber)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Olendorf" <solendor(at)nycap.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Now that's a quote. |
"life is a dangerous thing, more so for folks who choose not to live in fear of
dying", Denny Rowe
I think I'll print this on a t-shirt. I think the same thought at least once a
week.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tip's - Why drip 3/16" rivets/CherryMax |
| From: | Bob Noyer <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
I have pulled several hundred CM rivets with common Craftsman pop puller.
It'll last about maybe a 100, then back to the store. My cow-milking days
more than 70 yrs ago was good training. I've seen the pneumatic pullers, and
they are fine for production or big shops with lots of sheet metal repairs,
BUTT too much money.
As for the the common AL pops breaking--most likely too short grip length.
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CaptainRon <aerialron(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tip's - Why drip 3/16" rivets |
Well that shouldn't happen. Check make sure you are
using a SS rivet. an aluminum rivet may do that snap
early,, but SS rivet should not. If it is an AL rivet
check all your other rivets to make sure they aint AL.
If they are replace.
==============================
--- Paul Petty <ppetty@c-gate.net> wrote:
> <ppetty@c-gate.net>
>
> I had and still have a problem with one of my L
> brackets on the fuselage
> tube. The rivets snap before the tighten down.
> Travis at TNK told me that
> ray dips his in oil and they would pull down all the
> way.
> Tried it didn't work.....
>
> pp
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jerb" <ulflyer(at)verizon.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: tip's - Why drip 3/16"
> rivets
>
>
>
> >
> > What is the reason for and benefit to dipping the
> 3/16" rivets in oil?
> > jerb
> >
> > snip...
> > > Things like "dip them 3/16" rivets in oil
> before snapping
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Click on the
> this
> generous
> _->
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Ron
Building M3X
Southern Arizona
__________________________________
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:star's tip's |
----- Original Message -----
From:
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: tip's
if you want to do stars or other effects use kitchen cupboard self adhesive backed
vinyl it can be had at any grocery store. I used it on my desert scene with
aro-thane. cut the design first with an ex-ato knife then apply the mask, works
great. after the paint is dry and you remove the mask you may have to clean
the adhesive off with a little alcohol.
uncle Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | 25% COST SAVINGS - MIL-T-4345B Electronic Lacing Cord |
glasair-list(at)matronics.com, kolb-list(at)matronics.com,
zenith-list(at)matronics.com, europa-list(at)matronics.com, ez-list(at)matronics.com
I have some "Brand New" (in original packaging)
MIL-T-43435B Lacing Cord, Type 2 (polyester / Hi
Temp), Finish C (synthetic Rubber or Elastomer), Size
3 (50 Lb min strength, 0.085" wide X 0.014" thick).
This Cord is used extensively by Avionic Shops to
tie individual electrical wires into bundles for their
avionic equipment.
* Least expensive way to make Wire Bundles.
* Will not cut into wires like Dental Floss
used by some Builders, as it is "flat".
* Higher Temp Rating (-73 Deg C to 177 Deg C)
than Type 1 (-55 Deg C to 121 Deg C) that is
sold by Aircraft Spruce and Chief Aircraft
for $21 per Spool + Shipping Cost
* Each Spool contains 500 yards of BLUE Cord.
(Share with other Builders)
* Excellent "KNOT" retention.
* See: www.versatileindustrial.com/gudebrod.html
for additional information.
* Selling for $16 per Spool (Blue color) -
includes shipping in the US. SUPPLIES LIMITED
If interested, E-mail me off-line at-
gareywittich2000(at)yahoo.com
__________________________________
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: tip's - Why dip 3/16" rivets |
In a message dated 11/28/03 4:33:22 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ppetty@c-gate.net writes:
> The rivets snap before they tighten down.
Paul/others,
Check to be sure the item being riveted, is held tightly against the item
being riveted to. In other words, make sure there is no gap between the two
pieces, because if there is even the slightest gap, when the rivet begins to
expand, it will expand somewhat between the two pieces and then the rivet cannot
possibly pull the two pieces tightly together before the stem breaks off.
Bill Varnes
Kolb FireStar
Audubon, NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: tip's - Why drip 3/16" rivets/CherryMax |
You can get a pneumatic air rivet puller from Harbor Freight or Northern
Tool for $50 or less, that's not much money today compared to what we pay
for Rotax parts and gaskets.
I had a few blind rivets where the mandrel breaks about half way down the
length of the mandrel. There it is with half of the mandrel sticking out -
on these you can't drive it through - cut if off with a Dremel tool. Sure
is a bear drilling them out with steel mandrel and soft aluminum body.
jerb
>
>I have pulled several hundred CM rivets with common Craftsman pop puller.
>It'll last about maybe a 100, then back to the store. My cow-milking days
>more than 70 yrs ago was good training. I've seen the pneumatic pullers, and
>they are fine for production or big shops with lots of sheet metal repairs,
>BUTT too much money.
>
>As for the the common AL pops breaking--most likely too short grip length.
>
>Bob N.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tip's - Why drip 3/16" rivets/CherryMax |
> can't drive it through - cut if off with a Dremel tool.
> Sure is a bear drilling them out with steel mandrel and
> soft aluminum body. jerb
Jerb/All:
It took me a while, but I learned not to attempt to drill
out any kind of pop rivet with a "hardened" steel mandrel.
As soon as that little 1/8" bit hits the mandrel, it is ruined.
I have posted several times the method I use to remove pop
rivets. Every pop rivet except aluminum with aluminum
mandrel, I use a pulled mandrel, held with small vise grips,
to knock out the steel mandrel. Once the steel mandrel is
out, the job of drilling out the rivet is much easier. Not
easy, sometimes, but easier.
Many times the head of the pop rivet will rotate with the
drill bit. In that case, I made a tool out of a piece of
hack saw blade. Ground a "V" into one end with edge on one
side only. Hold the "V" snug against and under the edge of
the lip of the cap of the rivet. This will keep it from
spinning, most of the time.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transparent Fuel Tubing |
> I previously tried the
> Tygon tubing Lockwood sells, it suddenly hardened up
> after a particular one tank of fuel. jerb
Jerb/All:
My only use of Tygon tubing is for my fuel sight gauge
mounted on the bulkhead behind the left seat. It is
configured in a straight line.
In time it does like yours did, stains a little and gets
hard. However, it does not have a tendency to break once
hardened.
I used to use it for fuel line. Also used the blue urethane
and most of the other transparent tubing. However, I
discovered the transparent tubing did not last long, had a
tendency to look serviceable, yet fail with the tough of the
hand. Switched over to Gates premium neoprene fuel line,
black in color, many years ago. Have not had a fuel line
related problem since.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | early FS minimum weight |
I was wondering if anyone has ever been able to reduce the weight of an early FireStar
down to the Part 103 legal limit of 254#. My guess is it might take replacing
the 377 with a lighter engine, if such a thing is available. Thanks for
any input or ideas.
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)pa.net> |
| Subject: | Re: early FS minimum weight |
Hi Thom,
You are correct, it would take a lighter engine. As I recall the minimum
weight of a FS would be in the 270 lb range. I know some early FSs have
been reported at being at less than 254 with a Rotax 377, but probably this
would have been due to scale variations. We did a FS with a 277 and it flew
very nicely, I did some accurate speed checks and it had a top speed of 63
mph. (Standard FS with 377 / 477 was right at 70 mph.) These were measure
by stop watch over a measured distance which I found to me a very accurate
method of speed measurement. There has been a lot of development of
lightweight engine packages in the world of powered parachutes, so you might
want to look at what would be available there.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thom Riddle" <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: early FS minimum weight
>
> I was wondering if anyone has ever been able to reduce the weight of an
early FireStar down to the Part 103 legal limit of 254#. My guess is it
might take replacing the 377 with a lighter engine, if such a thing is
available. Thanks for any input or ideas.
>
> Thom Riddle
> Buffalo, NY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transparent Fuel Tubing |
Gee John,
Don't let Gates know your using it or they will come and strip it off your
"airboat" and invoke some form of penalty against the outlet that sold it
to you. There a big difference between blue stuff and Bing blue
stuff. Don't know what was in the fuel but suddenly one or tanks and the
Tygon shrank and got very stiff. So far the Bing stuff and been doing very
well and am pleased with it. Your no longer running premix so that may
make some difference. There is something about the gas and oil combination
that can do some thing to some of auto fuel lines. They use something more
oil resistant on two stroke boat motors. When Pennzoil presented at a
local area UL safety seminar, they commented on this and brought attention
to this fact.
jerb
>
>
> > I previously tried the
> > Tygon tubing Lockwood sells, it suddenly hardened up
> > after a particular one tank of fuel. jerb
>
>Jerb/All:
>
>My only use of Tygon tubing is for my fuel sight gauge
>mounted on the bulkhead behind the left seat. It is
>configured in a straight line.
>
>In time it does like yours did, stains a little and gets
>hard. However, it does not have a tendency to break once
>hardened.
>
>I used to use it for fuel line. Also used the blue urethane
>and most of the other transparent tubing. However, I
>discovered the transparent tubing did not last long, had a
>tendency to look serviceable, yet fail with the tough of the
>hand. Switched over to Gates premium neoprene fuel line,
>black in color, many years ago. Have not had a fuel line
>related problem since.
>
>Take care,
>
>john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 42 Msgs - 11/28/03 |
Tygon tubing is uaually available at suppliers for oil-field and other
outdoor equipment users. If you live in oil-field country, try your auto
parts store.
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Homers Bumps |
I'm not a structural engineer but I would be very careful eliminating the
bumps from the leading edges. There can be allot of torque on that
connection to the control surfaces. It would seem that if it was strong
enough they would suggest it as a option like they do on the trailing edge.
I'm not a structural engineer either but i would look at the problem this way.
the bumps on the front of the control surface is mounted with a single rivit...
the sheer line is the outside surface of the control tube. if you put in a gusset
with 2 rivits to the control tube and 2 rivits to the rib, the sheer line
would be in the same location and with 2 rivits in each member it would seem
to me that the joint would be stronger. it would probably be very slightly
heaver... but ever so slightly... i would probably set up a test and try to
bend, wiggle, pull, push, rotate,and see which joint stays put better.....
i used the radius rib on the trailing edge and wish i had experimented with the
gusset on the front of the control surfaces. I believe it wouod have looked
better and been easier to cover.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Homers Bumps |
The leading edge of all the Kolb control surfaces are torque tubes. The ribs
are attached to this torque tube and transit control forces primarily thru
pushing and pulling. The placement of rib on the side of the leading edge
increases the length of the lever arm for transmitting these control forces.
When you use gussets you in effect shorten the lever arm so the gusset has
to transmit more force to do the same amount of work. The gusset would have
to be a much stronger to carry this load and since it doesn't have the
profile of the rib it might be more prone to flexing and later fatigue
cracking.
I agree it would look much better and be easer to cover but........ I highly
recommend you test very carefully as a failure of a control surface in
flight will ruin you day.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "boyd young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: : Re: Kolb-List: Homers Bumps
>
>
> I'm not a structural engineer but I would be very careful eliminating the
> bumps from the leading edges. There can be allot of torque on that
> connection to the control surfaces. It would seem that if it was strong
> enough they would suggest it as a option like they do on the trailing
edge.
>
>
> I'm not a structural engineer either but i would look at the problem this
way.
>
> the bumps on the front of the control surface is mounted with a single
rivit... the sheer line is the outside surface of the control tube. if you
put in a gusset with 2 rivits to the control tube and 2 rivits to the rib,
the sheer line would be in the same location and with 2 rivits in each
member it would seem to me that the joint would be stronger. it would
probably be very slightly heaver... but ever so slightly... i would
probably set up a test and try to bend, wiggle, pull, push, rotate,and see
which joint stays put better..... i used the radius rib on the trailing
edge and wish i had experimented with the gusset on the front of the control
surfaces. I believe it wouod have looked better and been easier to cover.
>
> boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Homers Bumps |
> I believe it wouod have looked better and been
> easier to cover.
>
> boyd
Hi Boyd/All:
I built my ailerons, flaps, elevators, and rudder, like
Homer designed them.
Here is the way I see it. The single rivet in the leading
end of the rib tube holds the part together until it gets
the fabric, heat and dope. Then a tremendous amount of
pressure is holding this whole thing together.
Maybe I can explain better how strong the single rivet and
fabric combination are. The outboard rib of the aileron has
a single rivet holding the forward edge of the rib. I, for
one, install the aileron counter balance weights after the
wing and ailerons are finished painting. I cut out the
fabric on the inside of the outboard end of the leading edge
of the aileron to slide the counter balance body in. But I
can't until I remove the portion of the pop rivet that
protrudes down into the inside of the leading edge tube.
Get out the die grinder and a carbide burr. Carefully grind
the protruding portion of the rivet off flush with the
inside of the leading edge tube. I have to do this to the
top and bottom outboard aileron rib tubes. Only thing
holding the ribs on now is the little bit of rivet sticking
into the tube, about .032 or .035". I have been flying this
way for many years with no signs of weakening or possible
failure.
I personally do not think the bumps are ugly. They are a
part of the aerodynamics and character of Kolb airplanes.
Sometimes, if you get a chance, ask Homer or Dennis what the
purpose of the bumps are. I can not remember if I have ever
heard before myself.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transparent Fuel Tubing |
There is something about the gas and oil combination
> that can do some thing to some of auto fuel lines. They use something
more
> oil resistant on two stroke boat motors. When Pennzoil presented at a
> local area UL safety seminar, they commented on this and brought attention
> to this fact.
> jerb
Wow,
I have to look into this deal as when I put together my fuel system I used
automotive black line to get away from the annual fuel line replacements I
have to do on my Loehle with the urethane fuel line. Now I find out that my
Pennzoil may be breaking down my lines? Ouch.
I'll have to see about getting the type of line that comes on motocross
bikes, it is thinner walled black rubber and definitly holds up to premix
for years.
Denny Rowe
Mk-3, 2SI 690L, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Homers Bumps |
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard & Martha Neilsen
Subject: Re: Re: Kolb-List: Homers Bumps
The leading edge of all the Kolb control surfaces are torque tubes. The ribs
are attached to this torque tube and transit control forces primarily thru
pushing and pulling. The placement of rib on the side
>Hers two bits worth;
The torque tube as mentioned by John H has the covering material bonded to it.
The covering is acting as tension compression (push pull) on the entire surface.
think of the placement of the ribs in relation to how much fabric that is
bonded to the tube. torque to the entire length of the control surface is uniformly
transmitted to the surface by the fabric not a few ribs. The ribs and
the fabric act together transmitting control imputes to the surface. Here in
Arizona it is so dry that the main spar in the Citabria Decathlon dries enough
to let the nails come out that hold the metal ribs to the main spar. try as
you might to put the nails back in, the holes are so loose that they keep coming
out. Evan epoxying them back in with big epoxy heads, doing aerobatics the
nails come out. Pat the back of the wing on the bottom when the plane is on
the ground and you will hear the nails, epoxy and all rattling around inside
the wing. what keeps the ribs in place? the fabric!!!! the holmer bumps are there
because of ease of manufacturing by us the enthusiast. not every one has equipment
or the desire to form ribs. I can tell you this much, a formed rib is
lighter and stronger as it captures the torque tube and the trailing edge tube
in a cradle of material not a trailing edge held by one rivet and the leading
edge torque tube by two rivets. again formed ribs seem to work for Cessna, Piper,
Grumman America, Bowing, McDonald Douglass, Sikorsky, Bell, Air Buss, and
Lear just to mention a few. what's great about a Kolb is there is so much that
you can do to make your plane personal, and innovative to you, it lets a little
of yourself be in your project. I can tell you this, it is easer to cover,
and to make straight tapes. I like the clean look, others might like the holmer
bumps, that's cool too.
Who knows Holmer bumps may be the only thing holding a kolb in the air.
Just have fun with your project.
Uncle Craig
MKIIIex912uls
Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark German" <aerofab(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Airworthiness Certificate!! |
Kolbers:
I am happy to announce I received my Airworthiness Certificate today at
1:30pm. My Kolbra is now a legal aircraft.
Thanks to John W. for the help on W&B numbers. N20386 will be moving to the
airport 25D Forest Lake MN tomorrow Sunday Nov-30th. If the weather
corporates may just get some time to taxi test. Looking forward to getting
the first flight in and starting Phase-1 flight testing.
Mark G.
912 Kolbra.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Homers Bumps |
Craig/all
I'm sure the fabric contributes to the strength but its not all of it. Also
there is a world of difference between a formed rib like you put on your
plane and the gussets we were talking about. I'm sure you tested you ribs
for strength and I think the gusset should be tested also. Yes have fun with
your project but be very careful when you change a structural component on
an airplane.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Kolb-List: Homers Bumps
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Richard & Martha Neilsen
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Re: Kolb-List: Homers Bumps
>
>
> The leading edge of all the Kolb control surfaces are torque tubes. The
ribs
> are attached to this torque tube and transit control forces primarily thru
> pushing and pulling. The placement of rib on the side
>
> >Hers two bits worth;
> The torque tube as mentioned by John H has the covering material bonded
to it. The covering is acting as tension compression (push pull) on the
entire surface. think of the placement of the ribs in relation to how much
fabric that is bonded to the tube. torque to the entire length of the
control surface is uniformly transmitted to the surface by the fabric not a
few ribs. The ribs and the fabric act together transmitting control imputes
to the surface. Here in Arizona it is so dry that the main spar in the
Citabria Decathlon dries enough to let the nails come out that hold the
metal ribs to the main spar. try as you might to put the nails back in,
the holes are so loose that they keep coming out. Evan epoxying them back in
with big epoxy heads, doing aerobatics the nails come out. Pat the back of
the wing on the bottom when the plane is on the ground and you will hear the
nails, epoxy and all rattling around inside the wing. what keeps the ribs in
place? the fabric!!!
> !! the holmer bumps are there because of ease of manufacturing by us the
enthusiast. not every one has equipment or the desire to form ribs. I can
tell you this much, a formed rib is lighter and stronger as it captures the
torque tube and the trailing edge tube in a cradle of material not a
trailing edge held by one rivet and the leading edge torque tube by two
rivets. again formed ribs seem to work for Cessna, Piper, Grumman America,
Bowing, McDonald Douglass, Sikorsky, Bell, Air Buss, and Lear just to
mention a few. what's great about a Kolb is there is so much that you can do
to make your plane personal, and innovative to you, it lets a little of
yourself be in your project. I can tell you this, it is easer to cover, and
to make straight tapes. I like the clean look, others might like the holmer
bumps, that's cool too.
> Who knows Holmer bumps may be the only thing holding a kolb in the air.
> Just have fun with your project.
>
> Uncle Craig
> MKIIIex912uls
> Arizona
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spring Steel Gear Legs |
Richard & Martha Neilsen wrote:
>
>
> I just got my new spring steel gear legs installed in my VW powered MKIII. These
are the optional gear legs that the New Kolb sells now for $400+. Thanks to
Bill George who sold them to me slightly used at a bargain price. My plane sits
approximately an inch higher and has a 4 inch wider track. I only have one
flight under my belt with the new gear but they give me a much smoother ride
on my sod strip with little of the cable slap that I normally hear and the landing
is much more cushioned. Bill seemed to think they were too springy but they
are like the gear that were on the Kolb demonstrator (Fat Albert) and they
were just right.
>
> The gear are 2.5 inches longer outside the cage sockets than the aluminum legs
but 6 inches shorter inside the socket. The Old Kolb made the gear legs just
like these but then welded a 6 inch 4130 tube to the socket end to better spread
the landing loads.
> I'm concerned that the landing loads are concentrated so much closer to the end
of the landing gear sockets. Yet it would take a really bad landing to transmit
as much stress on the gear sockets as the aluminum gear legs because the
steel gear are so springy. I wonder if it would be possible to weld a pipe on
the socket end like the Old Kolb did without effecting the spring in the steel.
I suppose I could put a sleeve inside the gear sockets and grind the knob on
the socket end so that it fits into the sleeve.
>
> For now I'm happy with the gear but wouldn't recommend the gear at their full
price.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
>
Rick, you will definitely not be a happy camper if you mess up your
landing gear sockets. I believe it is very likely with your present
configuration. I would recommend longer legs that extent as far up into
the top of the socket as possible.
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
Jim,
Is that engine in production now? Last I knew it was a proto type on a
test stand. Kirk
" Check out the Hexadyne 60 hp 4 stroke engine. "
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
Their website indicates a specific fuel consumption of .42 - .44 lb./hr/hp 3 gallons
at the full 60 hp. Their credibility needs a little work, or at least their
math skills. .42 x 60hp / 6 lb./gal 4.2 gallons per hour. At 75% power
it would be 3.15 gph. These figures are right in line with all the other 4
stroke air-cooled engines we know about. If his .42-.44 numbers are correct then
there is no magic in this engine regarding efficiency but the weight is not
bad. For me, anyone quoting significantly better than say .4 lb./hr/hp had better
have the verified dyno data to back it up or the numbers are suspect. If
they can prove it is significantly more efficient, fine, it is worth a look see.
If not, I would stick with the tired and true. Same goes for the HKS engine
or any other new engine on the block.
Thom in Buffalo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net> |
Mark IIIXtra builders and drivers,
I recently received this advisory from Kolb:
"In the process of reviewing our Plans and Builders Manuals it was noted that neither
the Plans or the Builders Manual for the Mark III X-tra specify the placement
of the Rudder Cables through the Fuselage Tube, in relation to the H-Brace.
The Rudder Cables should be placed over the top of the H-Brace. The possibility
exists that if the cables are placed under the H-brace, fraying of the cable
may take place over an extended period of time, due to the normal course of movement
of the Rudder Cables.
The Elevator Cables should continue to be placed under the H-Brace."
I read about a corrosion prevention system today in the paper, check it out at:
http://www.counteractrust.com/
Is this something that could be used on an airplane? Would aluminum be better
or worse than steel in this process of electronic rustproofing?
Clay Stuart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate!! |
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark G
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Airworthiness Certificate!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark German" <aerofab(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Airworthiness Certificate!!
first flight in and starting Phase-1 flight testing.
>
> Mark G.
> 912 Kolbra.
>
>My hat's off to ya!!!!!! let's see some pictures!!!!
Happy flights to ya!!!
Uncle Craig
MKIIIex912uls
Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Allman" <fisherallman(at)earthlink.net> |
Tom and others,
What was the problem with the high thrust line on the Slingshot?
Maybe the sump?
Thanks for the info.
Joe
VA SS-582
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Olenik
Aviation
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: HKS engine
The aircraft where this type of performance has been accomplished with the
HKS are my Dad's Zippy Sport, the Beaver and the Chinook by ASAP, and the
Summit 2 powered parachute.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ronnie wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
anyone know where i can get line drawings of a firestar and a ultrastar?, want
to play with the drawings a little .hopefully in a format that I can change and
add to.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Don Gherardini ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Don Gherardini <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Subject: Honda Test Stand
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/donghe@one-eleven.net.11.30.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Paul Petty ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Paul Petty <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Laser Level
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/ppetty@c-gate.net.11.30.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: early FS minimum weight |
>
>I was wondering if anyone has ever been able to reduce the weight of an early
FireStar down to the Part 103 legal limit of 254#. My guess is it might take replacing
the 377 with a lighter engine, if such a thing is available. Thanks for
any input or ideas.
>
>Thom Riddle
>Buffalo, NY
>
Thom,
I have been looking into this for the FireFly. The Victor 1+ is a good engine,
but it is still too heavy for the plane, and I am coming close to the 254 pound
limit. The computed drag for the FireFly is 12.14 which allows for a 40 hp
engine to keep from going faster than 55 knots. But if one goes to a 27 or 28
hp engine one can clean up the FireFly with a full enclosure and fair in the
landing gear to reduce the drag to about nine, and the FireFly will still cruise
at 55 knots. This is based on the AC 103-7, Maximum Level Flight Air Speed
Calculations - Appendix 1, Maximum AirSpeed Graph. It can be seen at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/fireflylegal.html
With out any clean up effort, the FireFly would still top out at least 49 knots
or 56 mph. From my experience this chart is conservative in its estimates and
I believe the FireFly would do better.
I believe there are a couple of good 313cc engines out there. One is sold by Compact
Radial Engines.
http://www.compactradialengines.com/mz34.html
It is the MZ34 and is rated at 27 hp at 6,200 rpm. Complete with pull and electric
starter, belt reduction unit and muffler it's published weight is 42 pounds
and the cost is $1,958.
Hirth has a similar engine, the F-33.
http://www.recpower.com/f33.htm
It's stroke and bore are identical to the MZ34. Hirth claims the F-33 produces
28 hp at 6,000 rpm. Also they list the weight of the engine as 48 pounds with
reduction drive and electrical start with a package cost of $2,195.
I am leaning toward the MZ34. If one removes the pull starter the total weight
will drop down at least one and may be two pounds. The engine is designed for
bulk head mounting and this means one must weld up a steel tube mount. I believe
this can be done for less weight than the typical aluminum plate mounting.
The electrical starter works on the mag end of the engine, so this lets one
rotate and offset the belt reduction unit to correct yaw trim problems. The
engine uses a Tillotson carburetor which includes a built in fuel pump, which
saves another one-half pound. The F-33 comes with dual ignition and I believe
it will run on 87 octane while the MZ34 may require 93 octane or no lead or 100
LL. Torque and HP curves for these engines are very similar.
By changing engines on the FireFly and making no further changes, the weight savings
would be about 49 pounds. Adding additional fairings and to enclose the
cockpit area to reduce drag and to regain some cruise speed would use up about
ten pounds. To enable the best climb and cruise, one could invest in an IVO
inflight adjustable hub. This would add another 1.5 pounds. If I am guessing
correctly the FireFly would weigh 37 pounds less than it currently weighs.
You might wonder why I have not mentioned Simonini. The Mini3, 240cc, is listed
at 33 hp at 7,000 rpm and weighs 44 pounds. I have not been able to get the
Victor 1+ to come up to specs and I would be moving down from 382cc to 240cc.
I had assumed that if the 382 cc engine did not meet specs there was enough
displacement to enable the FireFly to fly well. It is a good engine but I do
not believe it is as good as the listed specs and so I am afraid the Mini3 will
not put out 27 hp. When doubt go with the displacement. Also the Mini3 is
a new engine, where as, over a 1,000 MZ34 are flying.
As with all things there is one aspect that is a negative. You can not climb with
hp that is not there. So with all the fairing slick up of the FireFly so
that it cruises just as fast as before, it is not going to climb nearly well as
it did before. I do not know, but I would anticipate the wing loading of a
FireStar is less than for a FireFly. If, so hp reduction would have less affect
on climb rate.
My! This is longer than I anticipated. Had a great holiday. Flew for the fourth
straight Thanksgiving for the grandchildren.
Jack B. Hart FF004I
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Craig Nelson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Craig Nelson
Subject: Holmer Bumps KOLB List
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/vitalfx0@msn.com.11.30.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Contribution!! aka happy BD
| Subject: | Re: Last "Official" Day To Make Your List |
Contribution!! aka happy BD
| From: | Bob Noyer <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Snuff--
Well. you're half way there!
Bob N. little hand past 80
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Hirth Engine experience? |
Does anyone have any experience with any of the Hirth engines and would they like
to share that with us?
When the new SP/LSA rules are finalized there are a lot of early heavy FireStars
flying that will have to be either converted to E-LSA category or loose some
weight to reach the 254# limit. There is a Hirth 28hp engine that weighs about
40 or so lb. less than a Rotax 377 but has a better torque curve and dual CDI
ignition (single cyl) that MIGHT make it a viable alternative to get the aircraft
down to Part 103 wt.
Thom in Buffalo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> about 5gal an hour burn.
> How does this
> compare to other 618 or 582 mk3s?
>
> Aaron
Aaron/All:
My 582 on my MK III burned 5 to 5.5 gph at 5800 to 6000 rpm
on cross countries.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: [ Don Gherardini ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Don
What kind of power is the engine generating at 4400 rpm's? Are you
implying that it is in the high 30's? Herb in Ky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Olendorf" <solendor(at)nycap.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Firestar II tail bracket |
I'm looking for a Firestar II tailbracket. Just the steel bracket. Maybe
someone has a crumpled up Firestar sitting around and can cut off the tail
for me. This is for Mike Alexander whos Firestar flipped upside down in the
bad wind we had here a couple weeks ago. The tail was mostly destroyed and
one wing was damaged. He has already fixed the wing.
Let me know if you have any leads. Thanks.
Scott Olendorf
Firestar, Rotax 447 and Powerfin prop.
Schenectady, NY
http://home.nycap.rr.com/firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Olendorf" <solendor(at)nycap.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Sponson attach for Firestar wing |
Does anyone have plans for the sponson attach points to go into a Firestar
II wing?
Scott Olendorf
Firestar, Rotax 447 and Powerfin prop.
Schenectady, NY
http://home.nycap.rr.com/firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Davis - Comcast" <davis207(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Exhaust cleaning |
I've hit the 50 hour mark on the 447 (1/2 prior to my purchasing the
Firefly) so today I pulled the exhaust. The good news is the pistons look
great. The bad news is the exhausting is pretty rusty and while it's off, I
need to put a coating on it.
The question is, what's the best way of getting all the rust off? The
largest piece is not to bad, but the 90 degree elbow and the "Y" are fairly
rusty. I have a Dremel like tool (Black and Decker battery operated) and
using various sandpaper and wire attachments, seems to do a reasonable job.
However, it seems impossible clean a significant area. Am I wrong to be
expecting a reasonably bringht metallic surface? Is mechanical sanding the
best way to continue, or is there a chemical angle I should try?
Thanks
Chuck Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Gassmann <a1929gassmann(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust cleaning |
At 07:32 PM 11/30/2003, you wrote:
>
>Go to an auto store and get a compound with phosphoric acid in it. Spray
>in on (I would brush off any big flakes of rust first), and wait a day or
>so. the iron oxide will be changed to Iron Phosphate. Then paint over it.
Andy
>The question is, what's the best way of getting all the rust off?
(snipped)
> Is mechanical sanding the best way to continue, or is there a chemical
> angle I should try?
>
>Thanks
>
>
>Chuck Davis
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust cleaning |
| From: | Bob Noyer <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Another rust-converter is Naval Jelly (no, not navel!)--a kinda thick pink
stuff you brush on after removing all the rust you can. It will turn the
remaining rust into a hard black compound that takes paint. Let it stay on a
few mins--may take a coupla coats. Rinse with water beteeen coats, and dry
with rags on papaer towels before next coat. Available most hdwe stores. W*M
too.
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mid-State Sandblasting" <plane(at)rtmc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust cleaning |
Try to find a professional sand blaster in your area and have it sandblasted
I charge 10.00 to do a complete exhaust system then to I fly ultralights
and I may be a little cheaper then some sandblasters or go to a machine
shop and they should have a glass bead cabinet That will cost more. get
high temp paint and put lots of it on.
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Davis - Comcast" <davis207(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Exhaust cleaning
>
> I've hit the 50 hour mark on the 447 (1/2 prior to my purchasing the
> Firefly) so today I pulled the exhaust. The good news is the pistons look
> great. The bad news is the exhausting is pretty rusty and while it's off,
I
> need to put a coating on it.
>
> The question is, what's the best way of getting all the rust off? The
> largest piece is not to bad, but the 90 degree elbow and the "Y" are
fairly
> rusty. I have a Dremel like tool (Black and Decker battery operated) and
> using various sandpaper and wire attachments, seems to do a reasonable
job.
> However, it seems impossible clean a significant area. Am I wrong to be
> expecting a reasonably bringht metallic surface? Is mechanical sanding
the
> best way to continue, or is there a chemical angle I should try?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Chuck Davis
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: [ Don Gherardini ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Well, I really dont want to imply anything...Horsepower is a very misleading
number you see...we measure torque and calculate hp from it and a time
factor..(rpms in this biz). The torque is much higher than the Cuyuna at
that rpm level....Also I have not had the engine balanced yet, which it
needs desperately due to the forged steel rods I installed. I tore it down
today to take the crank,rods piston assemblys and flywheel to the balancing
shop..where it will be till xmas probably....then I have an appointment with
a dyno shop after the holidays. I will let you know what the dyno results
are.
lets just say that it will spin a prop fast enough to run a heavy Firefly
(500 TOW) at 60 mph for certain, with the stock camshaft grind, a different
carb and slightly higher compression. I am also very certain that there is
lots more Horses in that engine to be had still with a dab of mods. How far
It will go without becoming a short life engine is really the only question
that is unanswered.
If I look at the Ul2-0II hp chart...it say it has 30 hp 5000 and 38 at 6200.
5000 rpms is where I cruise at 60 mph on a 2.5 to 1 ratio.
This is NOT the way to determine the Hondas HP at 4400 rpms...but a valid
comparison for THAT prop pitch. I lessened the pitch and the Honda engine
pulled 5000 WOT, but I had no way to know how the new pitch setting would do
on the Cuyuna. But from the way the test stand was pulling at the
stakes...it had more thrust in this mode!
However the Crankcase vent was spitting oil and the vibrations were so bad
I was afraid it was gonna fly apart. IN fact, upon disassembly, I had to get
a different flywheel to take to the balance shop because the keyway was
trashed in the one I had on the engine.
If this was the only engine I had access to, I would not have run it before
re-balancing with the new components. Since I have been saving up a pretty
good pile of freight damaged and warranty returns my supply is pretty good
on components.
Don Gherardini
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Parasitic Resistance, Struts and Wires |
I have been receiving some requests for the source that I use to calculate the
drag forces and hp reductions when fairing in various components on the FireFly.
Since the source is not readily available, I have scanned it, converted it
to an html and put it up on the server at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/pdrag.html
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Armstrong" <tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
Don,
Why the steel connecting rods?
If you lowered the pitch you would deffinately get more thrust static.
Make sure to keep in mind that using a prop under static conditions is
very different then at flight speed, so trying to compare flight thrust
numbers from static runs on a test stand is useless. You can compare
static runs to static runs as the prop is going to take the same torque
to spin each time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Don Gherardini ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Don G wrote.
. IN fact, upon disassembly, I had to get
> a different flywheel to take to the balance shop because the keyway was
> trashed in the one I had on the engine.
Don,
Sounds like you need a damper between the prop and the engine to soften the
blows between em.
Thanks for persuing this project, these are the kinds of things that make
this list so much fun.
Denny Rowe
Mk-3,2SI 690L, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust cleaning |
Phosphoric acid will do the job ?? Good to know. Another place to find
that is a refrigeration supply, or technician. We use it as an ice machine
cleaner..........or maybe I should say that the commercial ice machine
cleaners incorporate phosphoric acid. Same-o either way. I'll give it a
whirl - got lotsa that stuff. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Gassmann" <a1929gassmann(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Exhaust cleaning
>
> At 07:32 PM 11/30/2003, you wrote:
> >
>
> >Go to an auto store and get a compound with phosphoric acid in it. Spray
> >in on (I would brush off any big flakes of rust first), and wait a day or
> >so. the iron oxide will be changed to Iron Phosphate. Then paint over it.
>
> Andy
>
> >The question is, what's the best way of getting all the rust off?
>
> (snipped)
>
> > Is mechanical sanding the best way to continue, or is there a chemical
> > angle I should try?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >
> >Chuck Davis
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Exhaust cleaning |
Hi Larry/Gang:
I use Phosphoric Acid to clean and prep aluminum and steel.
Cut it with one part acid and two to three parts water.
Apply with brush or dip. Leave it on for about 3 minutes
and rinse well with water. Extremely dirty areas can be
scrubbed with a scotch brite pad or stiff brush.
Follow the acid etch with an alodine treatment. They have
gold and neutral, your choice. The alodine will keep the
aluminum from corroding for quite a long time.
The jug said nothing about steel, and Jim Miller told me
recently that using it on steel is discouraged. However, I
have done a lot of cages and steel parts with it with good
success. Paint isn't falling off Miss P'fer after 12 years now.
Take care,
john h
Larry Bourne wrote:
>
>
> Phosphoric acid will do the job ?? Good to know.
> Another place to find that is a refrigeration supply, or
> technician. We use it as an ice machine
> cleaner..........or maybe I should say that the
> commercial ice machine cleaners incorporate phosphoric
> acid. Same-o either way. I'll give it a whirl - got
> lotsa that stuff. Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne Palm Springs, CA Kolb Mk III - Vamoose
> N78LB www.gogittum.com
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Gassmann"
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Exhaust
> cleaning
>
>
>
>
>
>
>> At 07:32 PM 11/30/2003, you wrote:
>>
>>> Comcast"
>>
>>> Go to an auto store and get a compound with
>>> phosphoric acid in it. Spray in on (I would brush off
>>> any big flakes of rust first), and wait a day or so.
>>> the iron oxide will be changed to Iron Phosphate.
>>> Then paint over it.
>>
>> Andy
>>
>>
>>> The question is, what's the best way of getting all
>>> the rust off?
>>
November 16, 2003 - December 01, 2003
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-eq