Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-es
December 17, 2003 - January 10, 2004
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
Bob C has kindly brought up two (of many?) URLs that have the article I offered:
http://www.smithsonianeducation.org/educators/lesson_plans/wright/first_flight.html
and
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&q=%22It+had+not+been+our+intention+to+make+any+detailed+public%22
sorry for the truncation
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Brian Stenger ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Brian Stenger
Subject: 1987 Kolb Firestar
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/firestar1@fiberpipe.net.12.17.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Christopher Armstrong ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Christopher Armstrong
Subject: 2D CFD airfoil pressure distributions
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/tophera@centurytel.net.12.17.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
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o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
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2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Dale Sellers ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Dale Sellers
Subject: Ultra Star finished with House Paint
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/dsel1@bellsouth.net.12.17.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
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2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Paul Petty ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Paul Petty <ppetty@c-gate.net>
Subject: Wing ready to start riveting the ribs to the spar.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/ppetty@c-gate.net.12.17.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
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o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
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2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Dale Sellers ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Dale Sellers
Subject: Ultra Star Restoration
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/dsel1@bellsouth.net.1.12.17.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: [ Paul Petty ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Paul,
Man, you got a great shop....clean...eatin facilities....and 2 beerbox's!!!
Yaaaaaa.
Btw..looks real good with an airplane wing sitting in it too!
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ronnie wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
| Subject: | engine conversion |
have you guys seen this looks like he may be on to a good idea!
http://www.nessaaircraft.net/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: [ Dale Sellers ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
In a message dated 12/18/03 12:06:14 AM Eastern Standard Time,
pictures(at)matronics.com writes:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/dsel1@bellsouth.net.1.12.17.2003/index.html
>
>
Dale, do you have any concerns about trailering backwards? It is a beautiful
ship, congratulations...now we need to see some flying shots
george Randolph
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine conversion |
That guy is up in Woody's area. Not a lot of details on performance with
that engine. Most reports I've read has the Suzuki/Geo engine as being
underpowered. Maybe this guy has solved that problem. Kirk
" have you guys seen this looks like he may be on to a good idea!"
> http://www.nessaaircraft.net/index.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Dale Sellers ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
I have some video bur no stills yet. I'll be glad to get some and post.
Yes, I don't like trailering backward. That's the way the trailer was set
up. I'm in the process of rebuilding the trailer so I can trailer the plane
foreword. I have to go slow while moving it backwards. The wind plays
havoc with the tail surfaces. I have to go about 8 miles to the field I
fly out of.
Dale Sellers
Georgia Ultra Star
----- Original Message -----
From: <GeoR38(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: [ Dale Sellers ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
>
> In a message dated 12/18/03 12:06:14 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> pictures(at)matronics.com writes:
>
> >
> >
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/dsel1@bellsouth.net.1.12.17.2003/index.html
> >
> >
> Dale, do you have any concerns about trailering backwards? It is a
beautiful
> ship, congratulations...now we need to see some flying shots
>
> george Randolph
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Brian Stenger ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Email List Photo Shares" <pictures(at)matronics.com>
>
> Subject: 1987 Kolb Firestar
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/firestar1@fiberpipe.net.12.17.2003/index.html
>
Great lookink bird Brian, Congratulations!
Denny Rowe, Mk-3, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 100th Anniversary flight |
Listers:
I also was fortunate enough to get a log book entry on December 17, 2003. My
boss was nice enough to let me have the afternoon off for the specific
purpose of going to fly (new boss is nicer than the old one.) Everything just
fell
into place. It was the first enjoyable flyable day in over three weeks. I
enjoyed a nice liesurely flight around the Rogue Valley for 1.1 hours. Thanks
Wilbur and Orville....
I can't imagine making my first flight into a 21mph wind. New plane, new
pilot. Those guys had some guts.
Merry Christmas to all and a Happy New Year!
Roger in Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johnjung(at)compusenior.com" <johnjung(at)compusenior.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 100th Anniversary flight |
Group,
I took my celebration flight yesterday. I had obligations on the 17th.
It is really nice, being able to fly in comfortable temperatures in the
winter. Besides that, the air was as smooth as I have ever flown in.
For those that can't currently fly because of snow or cold, consider
moving to Arizona. We have an almost unbelievable number of good flying
days here.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J 503
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ultra star for sale |
Group
I have an Ultrastar for sale. Complete --needs the engine and
instruments hooked up to fly . 2k Herb in Ky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Christopher Armstrong ] : New Email List Photo Share |
Available!
Email List Photo Shares wrote:
>
>
> A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Christopher Armstrong
>
>
> Subject: 2D CFD airfoil pressure distributions
>
Why does the file mh78aoa12.bmp down load in the source code when I
click on it?
Can anybody see the .bmp picture?
The .jpg file is fine.
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Anderson" <janderson3(at)nc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [ Dale Sellers ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
Dale,
I trailer my US tail first for years, I did not have as far to go as you do
but had the same problems.
I took a piece of 2" PVC and drilled 4 holes in it in a line. Glued four
pieces of 1" PVC into at 90 degree about 2-3" apart and covered with pipe
insulation. After the tail surfaces were folded up I would drop this down
over the top and sandwich the vertical stab and two horiz stab in between
the pipe insulation and then bungi wrap the end. I also had to jam rags
between the elevator horns and the boom tube to prevent chaffing.
I built a spreader bar for the wing leading edges, 2x4 with notches in the
end, and used an bungi between wing attach points to keep spreader in place.
I then used an ratcheting tie down to secure the leading edges so they did
not rock back and forth.
The boom has to set on a solid mount - do not let the plane travel on the
tail wheel.
With this setup I could trailer the bird up to about 55 mph without much
damage at all.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: [ Dale Sellers ] : New Email List Photo Share
Available!
>
> I have some video bur no stills yet. I'll be glad to get some and post.
> Yes, I don't like trailering backward. That's the way the trailer was set
> up. I'm in the process of rebuilding the trailer so I can trailer the
plane
> foreword. I have to go slow while moving it backwards. The wind plays
> havoc with the tail surfaces. I have to go about 8 miles to the field I
> fly out of.
>
> Dale Sellers
> Georgia Ultra Star
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <GeoR38(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: [ Dale Sellers ] : New Email List Photo Share
> Available!
>
>
> >
> > In a message dated 12/18/03 12:06:14 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> > pictures(at)matronics.com writes:
> >
> > >
> > >
>
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/dsel1@bellsouth.net.1.12.17.2003/index.html
> > >
> > >
> > Dale, do you have any concerns about trailering backwards? It is a
> beautiful
> > ship, congratulations...now we need to see some flying shots
> >
> > george Randolph
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)telepath.com> |
> Got a question for some of you guys in snowmobile country:
> Been thinking of skis for the MKIII, (had skis years ago on the
> Hummer, really enjoyed flying off the snow) and instead of making skis
> from scratch, wondered if adapting a set of snowmobile skis would be a
> good idea?
First thing you'll want to do is call Dennis Kirk Snowmobiles
(800.328.9280) and get their catalog or just go to
www.denniskirk.com
and browse. Lots of selection in skis....composite, skis for powder,
extra wide, mounting kits, etc.....
J.Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
Here are a couple Canadian Challenger websites where you should be able to find
great ski information.
http://www.challenger.ca/
http://www.challenger.ca/owners.html
Thom in Buffalo
________________________________________________________________________________
RCVD_IN_DYNABLOCK 2.60, RCVD_IN_SORBS 0.10)
Thanks for the heads up John. Boy am I going have a ball with this. Already sent
in two. I suggested that they read the tips and if they are valid, sent e-mails
to the customers as "updates" or "revisions. This has been my only gripe with
the factory thus far. After many phone calls to other builders of the "Kolbra"
I have determined that the building instructions (wont call them plans) have
not been updated from the beginning. Simple little things that could save
first timers like me a lot of valuable time and money. Not to beat up on Kolb
to much, they are great folks and I like them all, but a little quality control
is needed. I think the main reason the building instructions on the Kolbra have
not been updated is that not many customers/builders are going the "full build"
route. And the quick builders like Bryan already know the "tricks" of construction.
Heck I doubt Bryan even looks at the BI.
I think this is a good move on Kolb's part. Just hope they carry through and get
the info out to us so early in the building process.
As for anyone thinking of starting a kit, unless you really like tinkering, or
building parts (as I do). Go the quick build route......Save yourself a lot of
time and apologies at the pearly gates!
Paul Petty
Building Ms. Dixie
Kolbra/912UL/Warp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Trask <sctrask(at)diisd.org> |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
on 12/19/03 7:45 PM, Richard Pike at rwpike(at)charter.net wrote:
>
> Got a question for some of you guys in snowmobile country:
> Been thinking of skis for the MKIII,
Hi Richard & Guys
If your interested in making up skis I just sent in photos of my skis in to
Photo Share. Take a look there not much to look at. I made them from water
skis with a plastic bottom and tubing for a frame. The plastic gives me a
wider bottom for deeper snow. They also make a more durable bottom. I made
up most of the skis from stuff that I already had lying around.
Scott Trask IMT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Morning Gang:
The installation and tuning of the new 72" 3 blade Warp
Drive is progressing slowly, despite the wind, rain, and
extremely cold temps for Alabama.
I forgot to measure the pitch in degrees of the old 70" Warp
before I pulled and disassembled it. So, I had to guess at
the appropriate setting for the new Warp. I started out
with 11.5 deg which produced 5,000 rpm static. I knew this
was way to low. I am looking for 5,300. I went ahead and
flew to see how the engine would perform loaded down. It
was getting dark, but I had time for a quick circuit around
the patch. As soon as I cleared the surrounding trees I
realized how hard the wind was blowing and the turbulence.
I turned on the panel lights to see the instruments and the
oil pressure gauge started dropping. Turned off the lights
and the gauge went back up to normal. Another problem to
trouble shoot and repair. None of the other 12VDC
accessories pulled down the oil press gauge. I was
surprised, the 912ULS would only pull 5,000 WOT, straight
and level flight. Oh well, time to quit and try another day.
Yesterday went back over to Gantt International Airport.
Pulled 2 deg out of the prop. This resulted in 5,400 rpm
static. Wind was blowing 15-25 mph, but turbulence was
minimal on the airstrip. This test flight, although rough
as a cob at 2,000 feet, indicated 5,600 rpm WOT straight and
level, which is 100 rpm above my goal of 5,500 rpm max
continuous power. Don't ask me what my true airspeed was
cause I was too busy holding on and the instrument panel was
bouncing too much to see very well. However, it was
hovering close to 100 mph. I tried several flights with the
gps, averaging my reverse course speeds to see how accurate
the ASI was, but with 25 mph winds aloft, it was not
productive enough to say for sure. However, it did look
like it was close to accurate at 90 and again at 80 mph.
Loaded with me and 10 gal of fuel, Miss P'fer is like a sky
rocket with the prop set to turn 5400 static. The 2,000 FPM
VSI was pegged during all climbs at full throttle. Not bad
for an old fat girl. Please do not tell her I said that.
She is nearly as sensitive as some of us on the Kolb List.
Today will go back and repitch one more time. .5 deg should
give me 5300 rpm static and 5500 WOT straight and level
flight. I may have to repitch another .5 deg when warm
weather returns and the prop looses some of its efficiency
to keep it at 5500 max.
I am still undecided about using the prop spinner, which
fits nicely and looks good. The reason is I can not see the
6 prop bolts. Prop bolts have been know to break. I can't
preflight them if I can't see them.
Is is May 2004 yet? I am ready to head West!
Take care,
john h
PS: I think this info has a place for future reference in
the Archives.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Hi Gang:
I forgot to mention in my post, dialing in the new prop,
that I probably need to to a prop check to determine if my
tach is still telling me the truth. That should be done
prior to dialing in the new prop.
A prop tach is something we don't need very often, but are
invaluable for calibrating the tach. I think the Rotax
912/912ULS tachs have a little screw in the back to change
calibration. 'll find out when I pull the instrument panel
to run down my 12VDC problem with the panel lights and oil
pressure gauge.
Anyone have a source for a good, reliable, inexpensive prop
tach? I have heard of people using prop tachs designed for
RC airplane engines.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com> |
Hi John,
Here's a nice little electronic tach, works on 2, 3 or 4-blade props.
Only 25
bucks. I used mine to check the Swearingen Merlin IIIB i flew a couple years back,
accurate to a couple tenths of a percent. You must use them in daylight only though,
60-cycle AC from shop lights (like in your hangar) messes up the readings.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPX81&P=7
Here's another nice 25 dollar gizzy, an infrared temp gauge. Test your microwaved
pizza
without burning your thumb (or your CHT!). Tower Hobbies is the 800-pound gorilla
of RC
retailers, very good company.
http://www.towerhobbies.com/products/duratrax/dtxp3100.html
Ed in JXN
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Prop Tach
>
> Hi Gang:
(Snip)
> Anyone have a source for a good, reliable, inexpensive prop
> tach? I have heard of people using prop tachs designed for
> RC airplane engines.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Scott Trask ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Scott Trask
Subject: Skis
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/sctrask@diisd.org.12.20.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> Just wondering John, why the prop change?
> Ed in JXN MkII/503
Hello Ed/Gang:
Had a 70" Warp on the 912. That was the longest blade Warp
could build with the Nickel Steel Leading Edge Protection,
at that time.
When I upgraded to the 912ULS, Warp had developed technology
to build a 72" prop and increased the steel edge from 11" to
15". The additional length of the steel edge covered a
critical area that extended 3" inboard of the old 11" edge.
It was in this area that rain erosion occurred. No more
problem with the longer edge.
After more than 100 flight hours with the 72" Warp and two
inch extension, I had a blade strike on the left inboard end
of the flap on start up. That happened a few days prior to
departure to Alaska, 2001. I didn't have a longer prop
extension, at that time, so cut an inch off each blade.
While at Oshkosh, this year, Daryl had a new system,
polished and improved HPL Hub and neat white tips on the
blades. Yes, and a nicely fitted spinner. With more than
600 hours on the old system, Daryl agreed to give me another
prop. Warp Drive has been my prop sponsor since September
1993. Good folks to do business with. Tell'em Hauck sent
you. :-)
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Hello Gang:
Forgot to mention in the last post:
Flying with a 4" prop extension with the 72" Warp Drive.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FireFly Video |
Thanks Larry very cool video
Gary
Souderton,Pa.
Make your home warm and cozy this winter with tips from MSN House & Home.
http://special.msn.com/home/warmhome.armx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Lost my field.........thumbs |
SUBJ_HAS_UNIQ_ID
Well civilization closed in on me. I lost my field out in Royersford Pa. I
am looking for another place to fly out of. Does anyone know of a place I
can keep and fly my Firestar ll?
Thanks for the help
Gary
Souderton,Pa.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Trask <sctrask(at)diisd.org> |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
on 12/20/03 9:52 AM, Scott Trask at sctrask(at)diisd.org wrote:
>
> on 12/19/03 7:45 PM, Richard Pike at rwpike(at)charter.net wrote:
>
>>
>> Got a question for some of you guys in snowmobile country:
>> Been thinking of skis for the MKIII,
>
> Hi Richard & Guys
> If your interested in making up skis I just sent in photos of my skis in to
> Photo Share. Take a look there not much to look at. I made them from water
> skis with a plastic bottom and tubing for a frame. The plastic gives me a
> wider bottom for deeper snow. They also make a more durable bottom. I made
> up most of the skis from stuff that I already had lying around.
> Scott Trask IMT
Hi again
One think I forgot to point out about the photos. You will see wheels on
the skis. They are just on there to get the plane in and out of the hangar.
They just slip on and off.
If you get up and flying with skis and start dropping in some remote
trackless lakes. It would be a good idea to find a good place to put a pair
of snow shoes in your plane. Hopefully you will not need them to walk out,
but you may need them to make a runway. When I land on such lakes I will do
a few touch and goes first. Take good look at my tracks and check for slush.
I had once landed on a lake and step out of the plane (to do some ice
fishing) and took one step and went over my knees and half of it was slush.
The plane sat there as nice as can be with those big skis on. Merry
Christmas.
Scott Trask IMT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Lost my field HELP!!!!......thumbs |
I tried to post this earlier but I don't think it got through.
I am a victim of encroaching civilization. My field has succomb to a
housing development.
I am looking for a place to keep and fly my Firestar. I live about 40 miles
north of Philadelphia Pa. between Lansdale and Quakertown. Does anyone know
of a field where I can relocate?
Thanks for the help
Gary
Souderton,Pa.
Working moms: Find helpful tips here on managing kids, home, work and
yourself. http://special.msn.com/msnbc/workingmom.armx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi(at)supernet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lost my field HELP!!!!......thumbs |
> I am looking for a place to keep and fly my Firestar. I live about 40 miles
> north of Philadelphia Pa. between Lansdale and Quakertown. Does anyone know
> of a field where I can relocate?
Sorry to hear that you lost your flying field! We are in Lancaster Co.
but that's a little far to go. I'm not that familiar down in that area,
but there must be some place to fly. One guy around here keeps his
Firestar II in his garage and flys out of his yard, (big yard) :-) Good
luck! -- Earl
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Starting pitch setting for new Warp? |
Merry Christmas to Most!
Santa Claus came Thursday. He was dressed like the UPS man. Delivered my
new 72" Taper tip Warp Drive prop. That hub is a CNC work of art. Anyway,
Could somebody recommend a starting pitch setting?
My Mark III has the 912 no S. John H started with 11.5 - 2 -.5 to end with 9
degrees it looks like. With 20 hp less, looks like I should start at 8
degrees and go from there. Any suggestions appreciated.
Real interested to see the difference in performance between the IVO and the
Warp.
Getting ready for MAY.
Thanks & be careful,
John Bickham
St. Francisville, LA
Kolb Mark III Classic - 912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0(at)msn.com> |
Hi all,
Hope every one has a great Christmas and new year. Didn't make the dec 17 date
for the first flight getting real close.
I have a few friends that fly kitfox and there are two that fly the 912uls that
have experienced oil ascending unit failure. their fix seems radical to me but
they have elected to use a remote ascending unit plumed into the same pressure
pick up point with a piece of hose and mounting the ascending unit to the air
frame. John what did your gage do when you had the failure?
Uncle Craig
MKIIIex
912uls
Arizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> John what did your gage do when
> you had the failure? Uncle Craig MKIIIex 912uls Arizona
Craig/All:
I didn't have an oil pressure gauge failure, but a problem
with panel lights robbing power from the oil pressure gauge
causing a needle indication of dropping oil pressure.
Oil pressure gauge works great until I turn the panel light
switch on. Will have to pull the panel and do some trouble
shooting until I find out where it is being grounded, or
what ever it is that is stealing 12VDC power from my gauge.
A problem with losing ground on an electric pressure or temp
gauge usually gives an indication of full needle swing to
the highest indication.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi(at)supernet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Starting pitch setting for new Warp? |
> Real interested to see the difference in performance between the IVO and the
> Warp.
So am I. Please keep us posted on the prop! -- Earl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Olendorf" <solendor(at)nycap.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Flew on skiis today. |
Well I had a great day of flying today. I got to the field about 8:00am. The air
temp was 17degrees but got up to around 30 by the time I went up. I threw
on the skiis and went flying for almost an hour. The lakes around here are mostly
frozen and I saw some folks out ice fishing. I didn't see any snowmobiles
or atvs so I didn't land. I intend on landing on as many lakes as I can this
winter. That's my new goal. My last goal was to fly at least once every month
this year and I completed that today!
Now I've got to get some of those nice disc brakes like Scott Trask has on his
skiis. ; )
Scott Olendorf
Firestar, Rotax 447 and Powerfin prop.
Schenectady, NY
http://home.nycap.rr.com/firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ronnie wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flew on skiis today. |
do they work ok????
Now I've got to get some of those nice disc brakes like Scott Trask has on
his skiis.
----- Original Message -----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ronnie wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dribbling Bing Carburetors - Update |
trying to upload a picture and i am told that my mail client is not
installed correctly??,using outlook express?? any ideas??, thanks ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack & Louise Hart" <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Dribbling Bing Carburetors - Update
>
> Kolbers,
>
> I have re-worked the Bing carburetor dribble bib to make it lighter and to
> reduce the chance of anything being sucked into the engine. The latest
> update can be seen on the bottom of:
>
> http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly90.html
>
> This is a long html with many photos, so it will take a while to load.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lost my field HELP!!!!......thumbs |
Gary Thacker wrote:
>
>
> I tried to post this earlier but I don't think it got through.
>
> I am a victim of encroaching civilization. My field has succomb to a
> housing development.
>
> I am looking for a place to keep and fly my Firestar. I live about 40 miles
> north of Philadelphia Pa. between Lansdale and Quakertown. Does anyone know
> of a field where I can relocate?
>
> Thanks for the help
>
> Gary
>
> Souderton,Pa.
>
Gary,
Morgantown PA has an airport where I have seen ultralights. You would
probably be about an hour away though.
Gary it seems I remember your name from a long time ago that I associate
with some pretty spectacular pictures in an Ultra Star. Right? :)
|
_____|_____
*============================R============================*
\ /
\ /
(/---\)
\___/
/ \
() ()
Eugene Zimmerman straight and level
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lost my field HELP!!!!......thumbs |
Well yes and no. You may remember me from a while back but not the Ultra
Star. I at one time was looking for one but got the Firestar instead.
I would like to get a field closer to home. One of the reasons I haven't
been flying as much as I would like is the time factor to get to the field.
There is a field pretty close but I think it may be closed. I haven't
seen much activity for a while. I may just be there at the wrong times
though.
Still lookin a hopein
Gary
Souderton,Pa.
>From: Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Lost my field HELP!!!!......thumbs
>Date: Sun, 21 Dec 2003 21:15:56 -0500
>
>
>
>Gary Thacker wrote:
> >
> >
> > I tried to post this earlier but I don't think it got through.
> >
> > I am a victim of encroaching civilization. My field has succomb to a
> > housing development.
> >
> > I am looking for a place to keep and fly my Firestar. I live about 40
>miles
> > north of Philadelphia Pa. between Lansdale and Quakertown. Does anyone
>know
> > of a field where I can relocate?
> >
> > Thanks for the help
> >
> > Gary
> >
> > Souderton,Pa.
> >
>
>Gary,
>Morgantown PA has an airport where I have seen ultralights. You would
>probably be about an hour away though.
>Gary it seems I remember your name from a long time ago that I associate
>with some pretty spectacular pictures in an Ultra Star. Right? :)
>
> |
> _____|_____
> *============================R============================*
> \ /
> \ /
> (/---\)
> \___/
> / \
> () ()
> Eugene Zimmerman straight and level
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy(at)lycos.com> |
| Subject: | Yes! We have no bannanas |
Hey Guys,
Well, I'll ask again.....
Firestar II - it calls for the aileron/wing "gap seal"
to run down the entire length of the tube.....
Is that what you guys have done OR do you just run it the length of the aileron
?
Unlike some , I've built my plane Without having to be "Spoon Fed"....
But it would be nice to get alittle feedback now&then.
Gotta Fly...
Sometimes you just have to take the leap
and build your wings on the way down...
Gotta Fly...
Free Poetry Contest. Win $10,000. Submit your poem @ Poetry.com!
http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;6750922;3807821;l?http://www.poetry.com/contest/contest.asp?Suite=A59101
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James and Cathy Tripp" <jtripp(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Yes! We have no bannanas |
Mike,
I ran my aileron gap seal the full length of the wing and I'm sure John
Hauck ran his the full length also since he's the one who showed me how to
do mine.
James Tripp
FSII, Painting
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy(at)lycos.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Yes! We have no bannanas
>
> Hey Guys,
> Well, I'll ask again.....
>
> Firestar II - it calls for the aileron/wing "gap seal"
> to run down the entire length of the tube.....
> Is that what you guys have done OR do you just run it the length of the
aileron ?
>
> Unlike some , I've built my plane Without having to be "Spoon Fed"....
>
> But it would be nice to get alittle feedback now&then.
>
> Gotta Fly...
>
>
> Sometimes you just have to take the leap
> and build your wings on the way down...
> Gotta Fly...
>
>
> Free Poetry Contest. Win $10,000. Submit your poem @ Poetry.com!
>
http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;6750922;3807821;l?http://www.poetry.com/contest/contest.asp?Suite=A59101
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flew on skiis today. |
| From: | Scott Trask <sctrask(at)diisd.org> |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
on 12/21/03 5:22 PM, Scott Olendorf at solendor(at)nycap.rr.com wrote:
>
> Well I had a great day of flying today. I got to the field about 8:00am. The
> air temp was 17degrees but got up to around 30 by the time I went up. I threw
> on the skiis and went flying for almost an hour. The lakes around here are
> mostly frozen and I saw some folks out ice fishing. I didn't see any
> snowmobiles or atvs so I didn't land. I intend on landing on as many lakes as
> I can this winter. That's my new goal. My last goal was to fly at least once
> every month this year and I completed that today!
>
> Now I've got to get some of those nice disc brakes like Scott Trask has on his
> skiis. ; )
>
> Scott Olendorf
> Firestar, Rotax 447 and Powerfin prop.
> Schenectady, NY
> http://home.nycap.rr.com/firestar
OK OK
Dose disc brakes on dose skis don't work well but dem holes in da floor for
da feet work great!
Scott Trask U.P.er
P.S best ideas Red Green show
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | KTec Kohler 4 stroke |
Jack H, and the gang
I dont know if you have run across these guys yet Jack, but there engines
are begining to get very interesting. They are Kohlers V-twins, and they
claim to have sold many. But....if you have as much snow down there in
Missouri as we have here...like me, your flying time might be browseing time
for awhile!
click on the Kohler pic...then look for the stats button..(and dont tell
anybody ya heard it from me!)
http://www.tech-advs.co.uk/#
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: KTec Kohler 4 stroke |
>
>Jack H, and the gang
>
>I dont know if you have run across these guys yet Jack, but there engines
>are begining to get very interesting. They are Kohlers V-twins, and they
>claim to have sold many. But....if you have as much snow down there in
>Missouri as we have here...like me, your flying time might be browseing time
>for awhile!
>
>click on the Kohler pic...then look for the stats button..(and dont tell
>anybody ya heard it from me!)
>
>
>http://www.tech-advs.co.uk/#
>
Don,
A 25 hp Kohler has been flying for some time (about a year) on a French design
that is based on the Spratt Control Wing. It is very interesting aircraft that
meets ultra light vehicle regulations.
It can be seen at:
http://spratt.103.free.fr/spratt103_english/welcome.htm
Weather has not been too bad here. I am making new heavier brake bands.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Cowan <tcowan1917(at)direcway.com> |
Been watching and lurking on the list and now I have a few observations and
comments. Firstly, I set up my slingshot the way the factory specified,
using the (almost) 3 inch risers on the engine to clear the wing fold
mechanism and such. Well, at take off, it was almost more than I could
overcome on the roll out. The nose would take a drastic drop and a realy
heavy elevator was the action of the day. Well, copying another slingshot,
I noticed that there was a 5/8" difference in the rear of the mount to the
front, i.e., the front was tilted down to more closely match the prop to the
boom attitude during flight. Well, after many trials and errors, I got it
around 3/4" difference and took all the strain out of take-off. The engine
being elevated so high was thought by the factory to present a possible
problem on aborting a landing but with my configuration, there seems to be
no problem now, a very light stick. Well, the added benefits were that the
fuel consumption went way down and the ability to climb went way up. Now
gets a nice 1200 fpm climb out quite regularily. I am a little heavy, 500
lbs dry but I have tried up to 150 lbs in back seat with just a little extra
run way needed to obtain speed and I think adding some air to the tires
would take care of that. Now to get to the point I was heading for. I
started out getting about five and a half gals of gas per hour burn at
around 5600 rpm. (cruise 75 to 80) Now, I get a respectable 70-72 mph at
around 5100 rpm and at 5600 rpm I am closer to 85 or more mph. I found that
around 5900 rpm I am getting close to 95 and had it up to a hundred at 6000
but did not do it long enough to obtain a WOT speed. I kind of chickened
out at a hundred mph. The best thing is I now am getting around three and a
third gal per hour burn at the 70 mph speed, four gals per hour at the 80
and then it goes up to about five gals an hour if I really push it up.
Havent tested that one yet. My egts are running around 1080 to 1140 highest
and my chts are around the 260 mark constantly and my water temps stay down
to about 160 on the hard push. My inquiry is whether or not a 582 could or
should sustain the low rpms of 5200 and verying to 5600 occasionally without
damaging the engine with carbon or anything. I would love to continue
flying at 75 mph at around 5250 rpms and get the 21 mpg consumption. whats
the take on these figures. Guys, gotta remember, I am only pushing 22 foot
of wing and 700 lbs with me in it so it aint no locomotive like the Mk II.
by the way, the baby purrrrrs at around 5200. likes it there. I have been
told that ast that low rpm, it will build large quanties of carbon under the
pistons and take out the crank. ted cowan, alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi(at)supernet.com> |
> by the way, the baby purrrrrs at around 5200. likes it there. I have been
> told that ast that low rpm, it will build large quanties of carbon under the
> pistons and take out the crank. ted cowan, alabama
Ted we have a 582 on a MKII and most of it's 500+ hrs. are between
4200-5000 rpm. We have the prop. pitched for about 6000 max. rpm (peak
torque) and an efficient cruise. We have never done any thing to this
engine except change spark plugs. Oh yes we did take the oil injection
off when we got it. I don't know if that would have any effect or not.
FWIW -- Earl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
-- Ted Cowan wrote:
I have been
told that ast that low rpm, it will build large quanties of carbon under the
pistons and take out the crank. ted cowan, alabama
Ted,
I know the 447 does just fine at 5100 all the time in cruise. To keep the carbon
buildup down, use synthetic oil like Klotz KL-216 or other Klotz synthetic 2-stroke
oils. They don't produce carbon like Pennzoil and other mineral oils (don't
want to start a flame war, but it's true).
As you well know, I give mine the Seafoam treatments every 25 hours or so. My cylinders
are very clean and look like brand new in there.
I'm saving on engine wear, it has well over 400 hours on it. I don't plan to do
an overhaul for another 200 hours. This is what synthetics will do for you.
Ralph
Original Firestar
17 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:carbon buildup |
Ted,
ON the subject of carbon buildup..let me share with you and the troops here
the results of alot of ongoing and extensive testing we do around here. And
we strive to get our engines to go for thousands of hours...not hundreds.
1st, carbon buildup...vs. temps.
These are related, but not in the areas that some might think. The largest
contributor to excess carbon build up is the residual materials left over
after the fuel mixture is burned. Lets call it the ashes for a visual model.
Alot of different things are in this "carbon" as we call it...a large
quantity is basically "dirt". This comes into the mixture from many avenues.
It can come from the fuel..the gas can..thru the air filter...and of course
from the oil. Usually the second highest source is the oil, so we will
concentrate on this.
Now petroleum based lubes are Hydrocarbons, so obviously we have a carbon
content to deal with.but the carbon we deal with here is more a subject of
the residue left after the burn...some call it "unburned residue"...but that
term does not work well here because of what really is going on in the
combustion chamber.
Since the combustion process here is related to a time factor...lets try and
breakdown that first.
On a basic level which will suffice for this discussion, lets just say that
the gasoline burns first..and the oil second. We wont go into flame front
speeds and different rates at different compression ratios, burn rates at
temp different levels and so on..because generally the gasoline still burns
first.
OH ya..Since Ralph mentioned synthetics..I better say quickly that we are
only talking about petro-based oils here!..Ill get to synthetics later.
OK..it is pretty easy to understand that if a low quality high ash content
oil is used we are likely to have alot of "carbon" left after the mix is
burned and if it doesnt exit the cyl somehow..it will buildup and cause
probs. The KEY word in the above sentence is EXIT! We really dont care about
how many ashes are left over from the burn if we can get rid of em
right?.... Herein lies the the secret to a long life 2 stroke men!
Now..where does temp relate?...Well many of you have seen the sides of a
piston "painted"with a brownish varnish looking substance.This is an
indication that there is an excess in the amount of oil in the mixture and
the engine is not burning it and I assure you, it is the begining of a
failure. The failure will come as a result of the degraded skirt/cyl wall
clearance. As this varnish builds.. we have less oil film on the cyl wall
and pretty soon...we are going to fail..this could come from a rapid
cooling...from a long haul and high heat building up...cold starts and high
loads....lots of failures are blamed on these happenings but in reality..it
was just to lack of clearance at the moment..
This condition can be induced from a fella thinking that "More is better"
and mixes his oil at a higher the recommended ratio. (Most common cause), or
a over rich condition on the fuel air ratio.("I'm gonna keep my engine
cool"), or a malfunction in an oil injection system...lots of ways.
How this relates to carbon buildup is actually a secondary reason for
failure.
Visually, picture in slow motion the combustion process. The spark ignites
the mixture and the flame front travels across the chamber. When it gets
done there is unburned oil...not the ashes...but plain liquid oil left on
the top of the piston that didnt burn because there was too much of it to
burn up in the time available.(remember the gas burns faster than the oil) A
portion of what is left is exhausted, and as it goes out thru the port it
coats the sides of the port with a oil film also. Now...as the cylinder
wall, block, piston all continue to heat up the volatiles in this oil film
all evaporate and it gets thicker..and eventually ends up as the varnish you
see on the piston skirt..it attracts the "dirts and ashes" left over from
what does burn and we see the result as a buildup of black carbon like stuff
on the top of the piston and the sides of the exhaust port and in the worst
cases...in the lands between the rings or the piston wall above the ring. We
usually dont see this carbon buildup on the skirt below the rings because
the rings kept the dirt above this point.When we do see this carbon below
the rings...well it is because we are examining a failed engine! When the
Dirt gets below the rings...failure comes very fast.
So...in summary of the root of a carbon buildup...its the "dirt and ashes"
left over from the burn stuck to the oil film that didnt burn that gets
cooked into that abrasive enemy of engine durability.
Prevention?....Whew...Examine all the possible sources...dirty air..dirty
fuel..high ash oils....heavy oil ratio...over rich fuel/air mixture.
Also, particularly on an engine run at a high load and constant rpm.(like
cruise on an airplane...or peak load on a generator), operating the engine
at the rpm level of peak volumetric efficiency. This will be at an rpm level
closer to the peak torque...NOT the peak horsepower. This level helps the
exit of all that "dirt and ashes" that we dont want sticking around in
there.
Also of course...cyl head temp....
"WHAT???.."You mean EGT dont you?".....nope fellas...I mean CHT. What we
to that, so CHT is the closest we can come.
Without some very extensive information...your EGT only tells you how much
heat is LEAVING your engine....not how much is retained.
Without an EGT prob placed at 1/2 inch intervals starting inside the exhaust
port, and spaced all in a row clear out to the muffler joint will you ever
get enough quantitive temp data to help you. UNfortunatly, the point of
peak temp of the exhaust gas changes in distance from the cylinder skirt
with rpms, and manifold vacuum (read that as load), so when you see your EGT
dropping...it likely means the hottest point of the burn is just somewhere
else in the pipe than your EGT probe is.
Any of you ever notice that sometimes in certain conditions the EGT drops
and the CHT goes up? ...That is why.
Anybody ever wonder why some engines have lower recommended Max EGTs than
others? EGT probe placement is why. Not fuel/air mixtures.
Anybody ever change mufflers or pipes but retain the same manifold pipe or
EGT probe placement and see a drastic difference in the EGT readings?
SAme reasons men...we have simply changed the distance of the hottest point
in the Exhaust gas.
EGT is an important factor in tuning your engine...but it is much more
complicated than one might think.
OK back to CHT then. Now of course...as some have suggested..running at too
low a CHT temp can contribute to carbon buildup..due actually to even less
of the oil in the mixture being burned completely and giving it a better
chance of building up into so heavy a coating that the "varnish" buildup
really becomes a problem.
Varible factors include,
Liquid cooled.
Cast iron cyls vs Nikasil coated cyls.
Higher silicone content in piston alloys ...
and of course the general cooling efficiency on any particular engine.
However still..It can be *generally* said, running an engine too cool will
contribute to carbon buildup.
If we had the ability to modify the fuel/oil ratio in flight...if we had the
ability to modify the Fuel/air ratio in flight, we could overcome this
factor.
If the ratios are set for optimum at a lower rpm level...it would be
different, and we could run em cooler...but then we would be in danger at
higher rpms and heavier loads. So that is why I said..*generally*.
Ralph mentioned that synthetics dont buildup carbon as much as some other
brands of non-synthetics do. I assure you, this is true. Not because the
synthetics lubricate better necessarliy,.. although they have synthetic
lubes that can make an elephant slip on sandpaper...
These companies have ettempted to get the lubricants flash point closer to
that of gasoline and duplicate the burn rates, so we have a more complete
and even burn of the fuel mixture and nothing is left behind. Therein lies
their advantages, not how slipperey they are...for that really is not an
issue as long as the alum piston does not touch the cyl wall...and the
clearance is maintained by what ever medium is there..nothing can be gained.
Well men..got kinda long winded again...it is a slow day at the office...My
sec....err.. I mean administrative assistant is hollering at me and the
eggnog is begining to be served downstairs...Looks like I'm going to be able
to quit thinking of infernal combustion engines for awhile and enjoy a few
holidays with time off!!!!
Happy Holidays, and to all of you in better climates suitable for commit'n
aviation...Blue Skies!
Don Gherardini
Sales / Engineering dept.
American Honda Engines
Power Equipment Company
CortLand, Illinois
800-626-7326
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: heat treating |
Joel,
I finally got around to straightening the leg that came back bent from
heat treating. I talked to the machinist in the shop I have access
to, and he really thought I was going overboard to try straightening
instead of just making one leg shorter, or whatever, to achieve level
stance on the ground. But, we felt like screwing around with it just
for kicks. It is amazing how much deflection (and force) this leg will
take.
Thanks also Bob Bean, for your advice!
Here's details and a photo.
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/ransom/BensAlbum/build/rlegstraight.html
Happy Holidays!!
-Ben
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
Paul,
Well, I dunno ...that mechanic was certainly correct in that using liquid
cooled mix in an aircooled engine is not right..but not for carbon build up
usually.
More likely..it was due to the engine running to rich in either carb
adjust...or oil mixture...or poor airfiltration.
Eggnog is about gone men...and if I can see straight..I'm going home!
Don Gherardini
Sales / Engineering dept.
American Honda Engines
Power Equipment Company
CortLand, Illinois
800-626-7326
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:carbon buildup |
Don Gherardini wrote:
>
>
> Ted,
> ON the subject of carbon buildup..
snip snip
Ok Don,
You informed us real good on everything except the Seafoam clean up.
Are there real chemical decarbon products. If so what is the active
active ingredient and what does it do to seals and gaskets?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: heat treating |
> I finally got around to straightening the leg that came back bent from
> heat treating.
> -Ben
Hi Ben/All:
Glad it worked out for you.
If you had some normalized 4130 in the same size you could do a little
experiment on how stiff it is and how little it takes to put a permanent
bend into it, compared the the greater flexibility of the heat treated 4130.
I have a couple gear legs that need some tweeking to get the back to near
straight once again.
How did you make out drilling the legs after heat treatment?
After the gear leg/axle socket failure a couple years ago, I have gone to
what Brother Jim recommended way back in 1991 when we were fabricating the
steel stuff. Weld the axle socket to the gear leg, align, then send them
off for heat treating. I don't want to go through the Muncho Lake problem
again. A little more difficult to get things straight, but much more
durable.
I got the ole computer back up on an early version of Win98 to read my mail
at home tonight. I'll drop it off with my Son tomorrow on the way to
Mobile. Hopefully, I can get my email files, addresses, bookmarks, and a
few other things back from my cleaned off hard drive. If I can't, then I
will start all over again.
Merry Xmas and Happy New Year,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
At 08:59 PM 12/23/2003, you wrote:
>
>
>Ok Don,
> You informed us real good on everything except the Seafoam clean up.
>Are there real chemical decarbon products. If so what is the active
>active ingredient and what does it do to seals and gaskets?
Seafoan? What's seafoam???
________________________________________________________________________________
A problem with losing ground on an electric pressure or temp
gauge usually gives an indication of full needle swing to
the highest indication.
Take care,
john h
sounds like you have an overload when you switch on the light......do you have
a regulator?
Its job is to compensate for load changes within limits
George Randolph
Firestar driver from The Villages Fl
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582 @ 5200 rpm's |
Tom/ and the gang,
Whew...I hope this isnt to boreing for all the other fellas on this list. I
guess if it is...like it has been said, you dont have to read what you dont
want to.
Nickle-silicon cyl coatings.
in a previous life...of maybe I should say at a previous employer...I was on
a design team working on a 2 cyle chain saw engine. jeez..I hate to think
that it was so many years ago..but..early 80s... We were trying to bust what
generally in the industry we called the 10,000 rpm barrier. we could easily
get a engine over those rpms..but we could not meet the design requirements
for engine life span. You see the smaller the bore..the tighter the skirt
clearance needed for piston stability..(rocking)..and when we lowered the
clearances..we just could not keep the piston cool enough. we needed some
way to get better heat transfer from the piston to the cylinder wall...we
tried all kinds of crazy things...different steels in the
cylinder..different finishs, different chromes...when we would get a good
heat transfer...the cyl wall material was never porus enough to hold the oil
film ,,or the expansion rate was too far off to keep the tight
clearance....we couldnt increase the clearances because then we had piston
slap at the high rpms..so lots of different oils that would (supposedly)
transfer heat better..teflon coatings and other magic stuff like
that...nothing worked. We were really chasing our tail. Then one day a
salesman from the company that supplied us with cylinders (from Germany...we
were in Sweden) came thru with a new stuff they were coating cylinders
with..Nikasil he called it. This coating was very thin although very durable
he claimed, and porus enough to hold a good oil film at the then unheard of
.003 clearance we were needing. I should mention here this was a 100 cc
engine...so the bore was quite a bit smaller than what we usually deal with
in our little airplane engines. Well..we didnt like the idea at first.,
because number one it was so thin we didnt believe it could last the 1000
hours that was the target...and secondly..it would prevent the overhaul of a
cylinder buy the common method of boring and installing an oversize
piston.So the frugal swedes said no..we will figger out a way..
Then..that other chainsaw company in germany started using them, and they
seemed successful. So it was deemed we better give them a try. At first on
just one model..and we will see if the market will buy a saw that you cant
overhaul without purchasing new jugs and pistons everytime. Well the saw
worked real well..lasted longer than the target lifespan in testing, and the
market resistance was not as bad as anticipated...so within a year or so,
all of the Pro-models were equipped with these cylinders from Mahle...then
some from an Italian company called Guilardoni as they were developing a
similiar process. In the begining, the coatings were ok as long as no dirt
was injested thru the intake...but as soon as they got one whiff of
dirt...the coatings were gone. After a couple of years the cylinder
companies had developed a harder more durable mixture, and these problems
were reduced.
Anyway, this was an exciting time for me.As a young American engineer, I
couldnt get enough rpms out of anything got my hands on and now we were
putting out production saws that ran from 12,500 for a 100cc model to 16,000
rpms for a 42 cc saw...VAROOOM!!!!!
OK..now Mr. Riddle, how does this apply to our current passions...2 cycle
airplane engines???
Well, Not being involved with 2 cycle development anymore I am a little
behind, but here is what I think..not what I know..just what I think!
Now we dont need for our engines to run at 10K rpms. But we do need the best
heat transfer/cooling ability we can get because we run these engines at 80
to 100% duty cycle..and the more heat we can pull out of that piston, the
more power we can get from our engine because the hotter we can run that
combustion.
As previously mentioned...a Nikasil cylinder cannot be bored out without
recoating..and no USA company is doing these coatings to my knowledge due to
the EPA regulations the apply to the process..so if you get a single stripe
down the cylinder wall...its a new jug...
The resistance to dirt injestion is better than it was in the begining..but
still a long way from a cast iron or steel cyl liner., so it cannot be
judged as durable as a "conventional" cylinder.
Cost a helluva lot for a manufacturer to buy these jugs...and the end user.
However.....The heat transfer qualities are second to none at the level of
technology today for a material that is porus enough for an oil film to
adhere to.
Hard cast aluminum alloys can be used for cylinders instead of a steel liner
and coated...reducing the overall weight...bringing expansion rates of
piston and cylinder very close together, which is a very good thing.
Allowing an engine to be designed with tighter skirt/wall clearances..less
ring tension...(which is less parasitic load and less bore wear)
And Yes, I have seen that engine company make those claims about
invunerability to Shock Cooling....And I believe that its probably true due
to this combination of pistons and cylinders, Although I have no direct
expierience with them.
Durability is relative...some people will use these engines no more than 25
hours a year, and 200 or 300 hours is probably enough life for those
users...As I have observed in this industry for some time...the great
majority of 2 stroke Rotax engines out there never last more than a couple
of hundred hours, and an awful lot of people still buy them for their birds.
All you have to do is start looking at used airplanes...I will venture to
say that 7 out of 10 ads say something like this..."TTAF 300 hrs. new
503",,,, or "TTAF 275 hrs...newly overhauled Rotax *** with just 30 hours."
Now no matter what you read into this..I see that there are more Rotaxs on
used birds than any other brand...and most of them dont go 300 hours.
It has become acceptable to the market.
Also...an aircraft engine operates in generally a clean air enviroment for
the bulk of its time...so by nature they are less prone to prolonged dirt
injestion.
Many high performance engine applications have begun to use Nikasil coated
cylinders..including auto racing..I have no doubt it is because they can
simply get the heat out of the piston better..and therfore run a hotter
fuel..or a higher BMEP...(Brake mean effective pressure)..(basically just
more power).
So Thom, as with everything...there are compromises. I certainly cant say
that a Nikasil coated cyl is better than a cast iron or steel cyl, they are
different...and for some people...they are probably better..for some..they
are not...I hope I have explained what differences I am aware of correctly.
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:carbon buildup |
Zim....
Seafoam....
I have never used it...dont know how it works....cant say a thing here as I
am completey ignorant on the subject.
Doubt if I ever will because when I have an engine that needs something done
to it..I cant wait to tear it down and fix whatever it needs..look inside it
and see why...I just like wrenchs I reckon.....!
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | 'Twas the Night Before Christmas |
Thanks to Aero-News.Net:
'Twas The Night Before Christmas
(With Apologies To Major Henry Livingston, Jr.)
'Twas the night before
Christmas, and out on the ramp,
Not an airplane was stirring, not even a Champ.
The aircraft were fastened to tiedowns with care,
In hopes that come morning, they all would be there.
The fuel trucks were nestled, all snug in their spots,
With gusts from two-forty at 39 knots.
I slumped at the fuel desk, now finally caught up,
And settled down comfortably, resting my butt.
When the radio lit up with noise and with chatter,
I turned up the scanner to see what was the matter.
A voice clearly heard over static and snow,
Called for clearance to land at the airport below.
He barked his transmission so lively and quick,
I'd have sworn that the call sign he used was "St. Nick".
I ran to the panel to turn up the lights,
The better to welcome this magical flight.
He called his position, no room for denial,
"St. Nicholas One, turnin' left onto final."
And what to my wondering eyes should appear,
But a Rutan-built sleigh, with eight Rotax Reindeer!
With vectors to final, down the glideslope he came,
As he passed all fixes, he called them by name:
"Now Ringo! Now Tolga! Now Trini and Bacun!
On Comet! On Cupid!" What pills was he takin'?
While controllers were sittin', and scratchin' their head,
They phoned to my office, and I heard it with dread,
The message they left was both urgent and dour:
"When Santa pulls in, have him please call the tower."
He landed like silk, with the sled runners sparking,
Then I heard "Left at Charlie," and "Taxi to parking."
He slowed to a taxi, turned off of three-oh
And stopped on the ramp with a "Ho, ho-ho-ho. "
He stepped out of the sleigh, but before he could talk,
I ran out to meet him with my best set of chocks.
His red helmet and goggles were covered with frost
And his beard was all blackened from Reindeer exhaust.
His breath smelled like peppermint, gone slightly stale,
And he puffed on a pipe, but he didn't inhale.
His cheeks were all rosy and jiggled like jelly,
His boots were as black as a cropduster's belly.
He was chubby and plump, in his suit of bright red,
And he asked me to "fill it, with hundred low-lead."
He came dashing in from the snow-covered pump,
I knew he was anxious for drainin' the sump.
I spoke not a word, but went straight to my work,
And I filled up the sleigh, but I spilled like a jerk.
He came out of the restroom, and sighed in relief,
Then he picked up a phone for a Flight Service brief.
And I thought as he silently scribed in his log,
These reindeer could land in an eighth-mile fog.
He completed his pre-flight, from the front to the rear,
Then he put on his headset, and I heard him yell, "Clear!"
And laying a finger on his push-to-talk,
He called up the tower for clearance and squawk.
"Take taxiway Charlie, the southbound direction,
Turn right three-two-zero at pilot's discretion"
He sped down the runway, the best of the best,
"Your traffic's a Grumman, inbound from the west."
Then I heard him proclaim, as he climbed thru the night,
"Merry Christmas to all! I have traffic in sight."
Anonymous
FMI: www.noradsanta.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 @ 5200 rpm's |
I'm not even a 2 stroker, Don, and I've been thoroughly enjoying your posts.
Keep 'em coming, and Thanks. Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: 582 @ 5200 rpm's
>
> Tom/ and the gang,
>
> Whew...I hope this isnt to boreing for all the other fellas on this list.
I
> guess if it is...like it has been said, you dont have to read what you
dont
> want to.
> Nickle-silicon cyl coatings.
> in a previous life...of maybe I should say at a previous employer...I was
on
> a design team working on a 2 cyle chain saw engine. jeez..I hate to think
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 @ 5200 rpm's |
> So now let me throw you a politically charged question - why does a Rotax
> 2-cycle have a TBO of 300-400 hours, and a Rotax 4-cycle have a TBO of
> 1,000 hours?
>
> Richard Pike
Morning Richard/Don/All:
Rotax 912 series 4-cycle engines now have a TBO of 1,500 hours.
I started flying in front of Nikasil cylinders in 1993, 1750 hours ago, with
a 600 hour TBO. Then it went to 1000, 1200, and now 1500 hours. As user
testing increases in time, Rotax keeps increasing TBO. I like it.
The best information I have indicates there have been no cylinder
replacements in 912 series engines. That info was as of January 2000 when I
picked up my 912ULS. At that time there were over 7,000 912's delivered
during the previous 10 years.
The 912 series uses water cooled heads and aircooled cylinders. I
understand Rotax wanted a straight air cooled engine, but in order to keep
CHT down the cooling fins would have been as big as the airplanes they were
powering. There fore, liquid cooled heads keep the engine size nice and
neat. A tidbit I learned in the 912 school was, primary 912 engine cooling
is oil. Rotax operated a 912 for two hours with zero water coolant. A word
to the wise: If you blow a radiator hose, or see a drastic rise in CHT,
reduce power, find a good forced landing area, and land. Do not kill the
engine to save it, and in the long run break your airplane, and possibly
your body.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Nikasil Cylinders |
> As previously mentioned...a Nikasil cylinder cannot be bored out without
> recoating..and no USA company is doing these coatings to my knowledge due
to
> the EPA regulations the apply to the process..so if you get a single
stripe
> down the cylinder wall...its a new jug...
> The resistance to dirt injestion is better than it was in the
begining..but
> still a long way from a cast iron or steel cyl liner., so it cannot be
> judged as durable as a "conventional" cylinder.
> Cost a helluva lot for a manufacturer to buy these jugs...and the end
user.
> However.....The heat transfer qualities are second to none at the level of
> technology today for a material that is porus enough for an oil film to
> adhere to.
> Hard cast aluminum alloys can be used for cylinders instead of a steel
liner
> and coated...reducing the overall weight...bringing expansion rates of
> piston and cylinder very close together, which is a very good thing.
> Allowing an engine to be designed with tighter skirt/wall clearances..less
> ring tension...(which is less parasitic load and less bore wear)
> And Yes, I have seen that engine company make those claims about
> invunerability to Shock Cooling....And I believe that its probably true
due
> to this combination of pistons and cylinders, Although I have no direct
> expierience with them.
> Also...an aircraft engine operates in generally a clean air enviroment for
> the bulk of its time...so by nature they are less prone to prolonged dirt
> injestion.
> Many high performance engine applications have begun to use Nikasil coated
> cylinders..including auto racing..I have no doubt it is because they can
> simply get the heat out of the piston better..and therfore run a hotter
> fuel..or a higher BMEP...(Brake mean effective pressure)..(basically just
> more power).
> Don Gherardini
Don/All:
All the above comments, generally describe the 912 engine.
I built my Son's Yamaha 426 thumper, the first of last year. Had the
nikasil cylinder redone at a shop in Auburn, Alabama. Looks like new.
Costs $150. Much less than a new cylinder. Reason for damaged cylinder:
Transmission gears came apart. Hardened steel does a job on any kind of
cylinder wall.
The piston to cylinder wall clearance for the 912 engine :
New: 0.000 to 0.0008 inch
Wear limit: 0.005 inch
The "new" clearances should get some comments from you all. The numbers
come right out of the 912 Shop Manual, 1994.
I can not remember the name of the company that did the cylinder. Lost all
my bookmarks. The company is based in England and has facilities in Auburn,
AL, and other countries.
Don's explanation may explain some reasons why the 912's are expensive
engines. They are built to very close tolerences. The UL series 912's are
the same engines as their certified engines. The only difference is the
paper trail and serial numbered parts, plus a little longer bench test.
I don't think Rotax has a problem with cylinder durability with 912 engines.
Yes, air at altitude is very dirty, even when it looks clean. You should
see the dirt collected on the leading edges of everything on Miss P'fer
after several long days of flying.
I took the liberty to change the subject line.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:carbon buildup |
Don, I dunno much about engines, pal, but I get the the impression from this thread
of yours that ....you are good....you are real good. Thank the Lord for cloudy
days and your impatience.
George Randolph
Firestar driver from The Villages
These companies have ettempted to get the lubricants flash point closer to
that of gasoline and duplicate the burn rates, so we have a more complete
and even burn of the fuel mixture and nothing is left behind. Therein lies
their advantages (of synthetics), not how slipperey they are...for that really
is not an
issue as long as the alum piston does not touch the cyl wall...and the
clearance is maintained by what ever medium is there..nothing can be gained.
Well men..got kinda long winded again...it is a slow day at the office...My
sec....err.. I mean administrative assistant is hollering at me and the
eggnog is begining to be served downstairs...Looks like I'm going to be able
to quit thinking of infernal combustion engines for awhile and enjoy a few
holidays with time off!!!!
Happy Holidays, and to all of you in better climates suitable for commit'n
aviation...Blue Skies!
Don Gherardini
Sales / Engineering dept.
American Honda Engines
Power Equipment Company
CortLand, Illinois
800-626-7326
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johann" <johann(at)gi.is> |
| Subject: | Greetings from Iceland. |
Dear list members.
I wish you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Thank you all for
your support and friendship.
Hope the new year will bring you lots of happy flying and building
moments.
For those who have been spending too many hours in the shop, building
aircraft: Stop what you have been doing and give the best gift to your
family and friends this year.
Give Notice.
Best wishes,
Johann G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: : Kolb-List:carbon buildup |
Don Gherardini wrote:
>
>
> Zim....
> Seafoam....
> I have never used it...dont know how it works....cant say a thing here as I
> am completey ignorant on the subject.
> Doubt if I ever will because when I have an engine that needs something done
> to it..I cant wait to tear it down and fix whatever it needs..look inside it
> and see why...I just like wrenchs I reckon.....!
>
Seafoam = Liquid wrench ??????
I think not!
EZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 @ 5200 rpm's |
> I'm not even a 2 stroker, Don, and I've been thoroughly enjoying your
posts.
> Keep 'em coming, and Thanks. Lar. Do not
> Archive.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> www.gogittum.com
>
\
Don,
Take it from a two stroker, this thread and your insight is priceless,
thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Merry Christmas to all and to all a good Flight.
Dennis Rowe, Mk-3, 690L-70, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SR3SA2L1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 'Twas the Night Before Christmas |
Thanks, I needed that!
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nikasil Cylinders |
> Don/All:
>
.
>
> I built my Son's Yamaha 426 thumper, the first of last year. Had the
> nikasil cylinder redone at a shop in Auburn, Alabama. Looks like new.
> Costs $150. Much less than a new cylinder. .
>
> I can not remember the name of the company that did the cylinder. Lost
all
> my bookmarks. The company is based in England and has facilities in
Auburn,
> AL, and other countries.
>
John and all,
Here are a few companies who do cylinder repair and recoating I found in a
quick search through an MX magazine.
US Chrome: Fon du Lac, WI, 920 922 5066, free brochure, or www.usnicom.com
RPM "Rick Peterson Motorsports" : San Bernadino, CA, 626 967 3052,
www.rpmsbigbore.com
Max Power Cylinders, Madison, WI, 608 224 2524, www.maxpower-engines.com
I am sure there are a lot more out there servicing the snowmobile industry
as well as off road bikes.
Denny Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nikasil Cylinders |
John...
WOW....now I am starting to understand also!!...with a wear limit of 5
thou...that is a tighter clearance than most engines with that bore size are
put together new!!!
I must confess to know very little about a Rotax 912...as I have no direct
exper with a single one. But from reading those clearances...it is pretty
clear that they are taking full advantage of the properties of a Nikasil
coated cyl.
What I *think* I know about that dang 912 is....and correct me if I'm
wrong....
It is the only engine in current production by a major engine manufacturer
that has been designed specifically for aircraft use with current technology
in design..100 hp and below...( I am always keeping my eye out..has any got
past me?)
I leave out the Vernier..the HKS...simply because those companies just
cannot be considered major manufacturers in the engine industry.. Since
Zenoah got out..they were about that last major that was in the Biz...Rotax
is now dang near all alone.
All the others I can think of in current production have their roots based
on a design for some other industry...PWC..snowmobiles..etc...
I leave out Lycoming and Cont....because you just cannot call their designs
"current tecnology".
From my viewpoint...that dang 912 is likely the best current choice we have
today due simply to its use of current technology in engine development.
It is really pretty simple men..No other major manufacturer has even
attempted to start a project for this market. The KEY word here is
major..because a small manufacturer will never have the resources to produce
an engine at a lower price than a major can. THey may choose to sell one
cheaper..but not produce it cheaper! (2SI for example)
AS far as the high price...well, I'm not to sure it has to do with the
precise tolerances that this engine is manufacturered to, for example Honda
Builds several engines of similiar tolerances...technologies...in fact..even
higher standards of technology I might say...But...due to several
factors..they are a helluvalot less money...
Production Volume is #1
Competition is 2nd...
these 2 factors are a couple a things that Rotax does not have for the
912...they have very little production volume...and they have virtually no
competition.
So I submit that these 2 things together with the smaller factors
like...new ownership group that has an obligation to its shareholders to
maximize profit on alot of brand new debt...and a market that has shown its
willingness to "pay the price"..have more to do with prices than anything
else.
The fact that is a good design and has high quality parts I think is way
down the list.
This is not unusual BTW...it would be the same at Honda or any other if
roles were reversed!
One last comparison....and I offer this to substantiate the above...
A 503 or a 582 cost compared to a 912...
These 2 strokes mentioned poabably cost about 20 % to produce as the 912 by
my judgment....maybe less..(and I am leaving out the tooling factor that was
likely long ago amoritized on the 2 strokes.... due to the new debt the
company has)..so one way to look at it is...either the 912 is a very good
value...or the 582 is a real big rip-off!!!
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G. T. Alexander, Jr." <gtalexander(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Sport pilot update |
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kirk Smith
Subject: Kolb-List: Sport pilot update
The following is quoted from http://www.usua.org/ 12-24-03
12/24/2003: Sport Pilot News
of
FAA informing us that late yesterday afternoon, the Secretary of the
Department of Transportation has signed off on the proposed Sport
Pilot/Light
Sport Aircraft Rule. It now goes to the Office of Management and Budget, the
final step in the rulemaking process. OMB is expected to use their allotted
90
days to evaluate the rule and act accordingly. If all goes well, and there
is
little to expect otherwise, we may see SP/LSA sometime after April 2004.
<<<>>>
Sounds like a SNF announcement item.
(April 13 - 19, 2004)
George Alexander
Original Firestar
http://gtalexander.home.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
Kolber's,
Wishing you all a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. Please
remember the reason for the season.
Thanks to all of you for making this such a great list. I consider all
of you friends and hope to met more of you in 2004. Don't know what I
would do without my daily dosage of "Kolb list". I pray everyone has a
safe and prosperous new year.
John Cooley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Olenik Aviation" <olenik-aviation(at)buyitsellitfixit.com> |
| Subject: | Nikasil Cylinders |
Don,
I would have to disagree about HKS not being a major company. HKS may not
be a major engine manufacturer, but they are a major engine component
manufacturer. They've been in the performance parts making biz for 30 years
and have been manufacturing engine components in house for that 30 years
that companies like Rotax still out source like electronics, turbo chargers,
etc.
Go to a search engine and start searching for HKS performance parts. I
don't know the exact numbers, but I think they are pretty close to being the
same size as Rotax.
Have you seen the movies "The Fast and the Furious" and "2 Fast 2 Furious"?
HKS makes a lot of the performance products that guys put into those
performance compacts like those used in the movie. In fact, if you watch
the first movie, there is a great big HKS poster on the wall at the
performance parts store where the guy works.
Maybe HKS has not been making complete engines for as long as Rotax, but I
would not call them a small player. I'd almost be willing to bet that they
have deeper pockets for future development than Rotax does.
If you think .005" is close, the by the book NEW piston to cylinder wall
clearance for the Rotax 582 is .06mm or .0024". Try those 2-stroke numbers
on for size. This is right out of the current maintenance manual in section
11.27. That is with a cast iron cylinder sleeve.
Tom Olenik
Olenik Aviation - Supplying the lighter side of sport aviation.
Level III Repair Station for Rotax Aircraft Engines
Dealer for Summit Powered Parachutes
http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com
Toll Free: 877-AIR-MOTORS
Buy from a dealer who can support what they sell......
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Don Gherardini
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Nikasil Cylinders
John...
WOW....now I am starting to understand also!!...with a wear limit of 5
thou...that is a tighter clearance than most engines with that bore size are
put together new!!!
I must confess to know very little about a Rotax 912...as I have no direct
exper with a single one. But from reading those clearances...it is pretty
clear that they are taking full advantage of the properties of a Nikasil
coated cyl.
What I *think* I know about that dang 912 is....and correct me if I'm
wrong....
It is the only engine in current production by a major engine manufacturer
that has been designed specifically for aircraft use with current technology
in design..100 hp and below...( I am always keeping my eye out..has any got
past me?)
I leave out the Vernier..the HKS...simply because those companies just
cannot be considered major manufacturers in the engine industry.. Since
Zenoah got out..they were about that last major that was in the Biz...Rotax
is now dang near all alone.
All the others I can think of in current production have their roots based
on a design for some other industry...PWC..snowmobiles..etc...
I leave out Lycoming and Cont....because you just cannot call their designs
"current tecnology".
>From my viewpoint...that dang 912 is likely the best current choice we
have
today due simply to its use of current technology in engine development.
It is really pretty simple men..No other major manufacturer has even
attempted to start a project for this market. The KEY word here is
major..because a small manufacturer will never have the resources to produce
an engine at a lower price than a major can. THey may choose to sell one
cheaper..but not produce it cheaper! (2SI for example)
AS far as the high price...well, I'm not to sure it has to do with the
precise tolerances that this engine is manufacturered to, for example Honda
Builds several engines of similiar tolerances...technologies...in fact..even
higher standards of technology I might say...But...due to several
factors..they are a helluvalot less money...
Production Volume is #1
Competition is 2nd...
these 2 factors are a couple a things that Rotax does not have for the
912...they have very little production volume...and they have virtually no
competition.
So I submit that these 2 things together with the smaller factors
like...new ownership group that has an obligation to its shareholders to
maximize profit on alot of brand new debt...and a market that has shown its
willingness to "pay the price"..have more to do with prices than anything
else.
The fact that is a good design and has high quality parts I think is way
down the list.
This is not unusual BTW...it would be the same at Honda or any other if
roles were reversed!
One last comparison....and I offer this to substantiate the above...
A 503 or a 582 cost compared to a 912...
These 2 strokes mentioned poabably cost about 20 % to produce as the 912 by
my judgment....maybe less..(and I am leaving out the tooling factor that was
likely long ago amoritized on the 2 strokes.... due to the new debt the
company has)..so one way to look at it is...either the 912 is a very good
value...or the 582 is a real big rip-off!!!
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2cycle vs 4cycle |
Paul.
At a National show this summer, a Bombardier ATV rep told me that within 2
years their 2 stroke line will be completely shut down, and only 4 cycles
will be produced...Now..this was in sept...and justy before the sale of the
rec division was finalized....so there might be changes in the plan as of
now...but I woulnt bet a cup a coffee on it!
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nikasil Cylinders |
HIya Tom,
In reading you post...I reckon we think alike..
snip...<<>>
cause I didnt say HKS was not a major company..just not a major engine
manufacturer...and I think you said it well in the above clip..
.
I am in fact aware of HKS performance parts...In Japan....these guys are to
Honda like TRW is to Chevrolet!
Half the Hondas in the parking lot at work are full of HKS goodies under the
hood!
I also believe that HKS products are of very high quality...and I think that
their opposed twin is the best there is on the market of its type.
I also can vouch for the companies integrity, and their support for their
products..This company I do have direct expierience with.
And I think you may be very possibly right when you mention that they might
have deeper pockets than Rotax...now that the assets of Bombardier are out
of the picture.
New 582 clearance 6mm huh?.... I'll be...now that does suprise me Tom...sure
didnt know that, and I'm glad for you to mention it.
I'll admit that it sounds tight to me, even for a liquid cooled
engine...but..we are selling our Industrial V-twins and sure enough..6mm is
the new clearance on these also..(I always thought they were to tight
too!!!) and they seem to do fine!...just shows what I know I guess!
While I have your ear Tom, and I know you have a lot more exp with these
Rotax's than I do...(which BTW I have dang little)
If I had a worn out 582 and sent it to you for an overhaul...and you needed
to bore it and install new pistons...would you set it up that tight?
Got to go and put together toys now fer the grandkids.....
Merry Christmas to all of you my aviatin' brothers!
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 2cycle vs 4cycle |
I don't know if any of you guys have any experience with Hirth Engines but they
sure look interesting to me, which is why I asked Don about the Nikasil cylinders.
Thanks again, Don, for the education. There have been a lot of bad-mouthing
of Hirth engines from years ago, but I think, don't know for sure, they have
addressed most of the problems and have some very interesting new water-cooled
designs out now. I have no experience with them at all but am might interested.
Up here in the great white north, starting a 2-stroke is as easy as in the
summer. When I fly our Cherokee, I go to the hangar an hour before just to
do the pre-heat. Don't have to do that with the little 377 on the FS. That is
one of the reasons I am still a 2-stroke fan.
Thom in Buffalo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave & Eve Pelletier" <pelletier(at)cableone.net> |
Matt & All Kolbers
Eve and I hope that all of you are having a great Christmas and that 2004 sees
a significant lowering of the stress level in the world. See ya in M.V.
AzDave
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sport pilot update |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
I got a new smoker for Christmas and was going to smoke a roast for
Christmas Eve dinner. I bought a bundle of firewood earlier and was looking
through some of the pieces to see if they'd be suitable to use in the
smoker. I put the coarse tooth blade on the bandsaw and cut a few into
chunks. This was easy, after all, I'd already cut an airplane's worth of
aluminum on this bandsaw, right? Cutting through the last log I noticed the
grain on the wood and realized for sure it was oak, no mistake, and was
excited because that was what I needed for the roast I was planning to cook.
I quickly set the cut-off piece down and reached onto the saw platform to
clear some chips aside and stuck the tip of my thumb right into the blade.
Now I'm not going to lose anything, not to worry, I just have a nice
high-speed slice into my thumbnail, thank goodness, and no inflammation
after two days. I've had a lot of cheap lessons over the years, and was
just blessed with another one. Like my old hang-glider instructor used to
say, "Aluminum is cheap." And scars are good reminders - you'd think I have
enough already. It just makes you feel really dumb to stick your thumb into
a saw. I was in the shop a little while ago and noticed the dried blood all
over the switch where I hit it. I'll leave it there as a reminder.
If a casual reminder will spare anyone on the list the feeling, then this
post will be worth it. With the season and the festivities and everything
else (giving anyone rides? trying to get some mods done before the holiday
is over? feeling some pressure?), just take a breath before every cut and
make sure you know where all your fingers are. Merry Christmas everybody,
and a Happy (and Safe) New Year.
Healing in sunny south Florida,
Duncan McBride
Mk 3, 319DM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
I re-named this to reflect the changing nature of the beast. This
clearances talk has made me hope Don, or someone familiar with such things
can offer an opinion. My 2110cc VW's - on Vamoose, and in Der Bug don't
qualify for such close piston tolerances, but a question has come up about
valve clearances. My present mechanical guru has quietened the Bug down
quite a bit by tightening the cold clearances down from the recommended .006
to .002/.003. It IS a lot quieter, and after about 3,000 enthusiastic miles
(it's so much fun, it's hard to keep my foot out of it) still shows about
120 lb compression all round, which is what it showed before. His reasoning
is that the VW book clearances are figured with aluminum pushrods, and I've
used chrome-moly pushrods. He says the Al rods will expand more to take up
the slack, and the chrome moly need tighter settings. So far, he looks to
be right, and I like his reasoning. What do you guys think ??
Curious Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Nikasil Cylinders
>
> HIya Tom,
>
> In reading you post...I reckon we think alike..
>
> snip...<< may not
> be a major engine manufacturer, but they are a major engine
> component.......>>>
>
> cause I didnt say HKS was not a major company..just not a major engine
> manufacturer...and I think you said it well in the above clip..
> .
________________________________________________________________________________
Larry,
I think that the 3000 miles you have on it will be testimony enough that it
is doing just fine at .003...although I would likely set the exhaust to
about .004 ...but...if it aint broke..dont fix it!
as easy as it is to get those v-dub valve covers off....heck just run it
around the block a fer times and get it all warmed up...and pop em off and
see if they are at least .002 hot....or just roll it over too compression
and shake the rockers....make sure at they are not tight...
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jo and Larry" <joandlp(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | Enclosed trailer question |
What is the minimum length of an enclosed trailer used for hauling
Kolbs(Firestar)? Plans are to start with an open trailer and do the
enclosure ourselves. I thought I read somewhere 24ft.
Thanks in Advance..
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot update |
> Tim and others,
I do not see how Sport Pilot Rules will benefit a commercial or
> private rated pilot
No longer will need a medical if you have private pilot rating.
Commercial another ball game altogether. Don't think " Sport Pilot "
was ever really concerned about commercial pilots. Not sure it was
focused on ultralighters either. I think ultralighters were hoping it
would benefit them. I think the focus was on making it easier to get
into aviation . Don't see where ultralighters have lost anything but
they can move into the area where they can take somebody up with them
without having to go through the private rating and all the expense that
involves. Kirk
Do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Enclosed trailer question |
The trailer I bought was built for a FireStar, and is 23' long, inside.
Plenty for a FireStar, but tight for my Mk III, and I had to lengthen it.
Take a look at it in my website, under "Building Vamoose/Trailer & Landing
Gear." Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jo and Larry" <joandlp(at)starband.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Enclosed trailer question
>
>
> What is the minimum length of an enclosed trailer used for hauling
> Kolbs(Firestar)? Plans are to start with an open trailer and do the
> enclosure ourselves. I thought I read somewhere 24ft.
> Thanks in Advance..
> Larry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Olenik Aviation" <olenik-aviation(at)buyitsellitfixit.com> |
| Subject: | Nikasil Cylinders and clearances |
Don,
I don't set them that tight. I usually shoot for the mid .003" range. Most
of the time I am between .0032" and .0035". I just set up my own engine at
.0034"
I think one reason why the 2SI 690 was so seizure resistance was because I
think they set most of those no tighter than .006" and run them to .010"
Lots of leg room for those pistons.
Tom Olenik
Olenik Aviation - Supplying the lighter side of sport aviation.
Level III Repair Station for Rotax Aircraft Engines
Dealer for Summit Powered Parachutes
http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com
Toll Free: 877-AIR-MOTORS
Buy from a dealer who can support what they sell......
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Don Gherardini
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Nikasil Cylinders
HIya Tom,
In reading you post...I reckon we think alike..
snip...<<>>
cause I didnt say HKS was not a major company..just not a major engine
manufacturer...and I think you said it well in the above clip..
.
I am in fact aware of HKS performance parts...In Japan....these guys are to
Honda like TRW is to Chevrolet!
Half the Hondas in the parking lot at work are full of HKS goodies under the
hood!
I also believe that HKS products are of very high quality...and I think that
their opposed twin is the best there is on the market of its type.
I also can vouch for the companies integrity, and their support for their
products..This company I do have direct expierience with.
And I think you may be very possibly right when you mention that they might
have deeper pockets than Rotax...now that the assets of Bombardier are out
of the picture.
New 582 clearance 6mm huh?.... I'll be...now that does suprise me Tom...sure
didnt know that, and I'm glad for you to mention it.
I'll admit that it sounds tight to me, even for a liquid cooled
engine...but..we are selling our Industrial V-twins and sure enough..6mm is
the new clearance on these also..(I always thought they were to tight
too!!!) and they seem to do fine!...just shows what I know I guess!
While I have your ear Tom, and I know you have a lot more exp with these
Rotax's than I do...(which BTW I have dang little)
If I had a worn out 582 and sent it to you for an overhaul...and you needed
to bore it and install new pistons...would you set it up that tight?
Got to go and put together toys now fer the grandkids.....
Merry Christmas to all of you my aviatin' brothers!
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Vincent <emailbill(at)chartermi.net> |
Hi Gang
If anyone on the list is planning on flying your 2 cycle in the cold
weather for the first time I recommend using a primer.
I did not use a primer the first winter I flew and could not believe how
good it started the next winter when I did use a primer.
Bill Vincent
Firestar II
Quinnesec, Upper Peninsula of Michigan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johann" <johann(at)gi.is> |
| Subject: | Enclosed trailer question |
Hello Larry.
My trailer is 23,5 feet and it works fine. 24 feet would be perfect.
Then you could walk all aound it easily, with pitot tube in place.
Best regards,
Johann G.
http://www.gi.is/fis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jo and Larry
Subject: Kolb-List: Enclosed trailer question
What is the minimum length of an enclosed trailer used for hauling
Kolbs(Firestar)? Plans are to start with an open trailer and do the
enclosure ourselves. I thought I read somewhere 24ft.
Thanks in Advance..
Larry
==
==
==
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot update |
I agree
The sport pilot option will remove one of the many regulations or hoops that
I have to deal with, the biannual medical. I like the Sport Pilot license. I
can understand the concern of many ultra light pilots who have been bending
the rules for many years. It would be nice if some of the ultra light
restrictions would be eased so that more people could fly single place ultra
light planes legally but that isn't happening. What I don't agree with is
the great number of people that fly two passenger (non training) planes as
ultra lights.
When I was flying my Weedhopper as a foot launchable ultra light the FAA
came out with part 103 and most every one thought that they were extremely
generous in their definitions. Then they allowed the two passenger training
rule so that people could get training in a like aircraft. This this was a
major safety improvement for the ultra light community.
My understanding is that the Sport Pilot rules will allow illegal ultra
light pilots to easily transition to the Sport Pilot license. This is a move
that is viewed as a fair way to two passenger ultra light pilots into the
Sport Pilot fold and improve the safety for these pilots and their
passengers. I would not be surprised that after the grand fathering period
has closed that the FAA will crack down on the illegal two passenger ultra
light pilots.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: <snuffy(at)usol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Sport Pilot update
>
> > Tim and others,
> I do not see how Sport Pilot Rules will benefit a commercial or
> > private rated pilot
>
> No longer will need a medical if you have private pilot rating.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ALLENB007(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot update |
You're only a medical away from sport pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "garvelink" <link(at)cdc.net> |
From: garvelink
Subject: need info
Hey guys I am in the process of buying an ultrastar, have you all had problems
with the cayuna engine or can you get decent service out of them if you tinker
with them. also does anybody support the ultrastar or is there anybody making
aftermarket parts frames ect? From what I take from reading the list homer
is afraid of litigation and no longer says anything. well how bout refitting
electric starter to the cayuna or refitting a new engine to the ultrastar.
Like a rotax with electric start? what should I look for in terms of fatigue
in the wing area IE the attach points and how bout fatigue in the frame. this
aircraft is coming on to its 20th year. any suggestions? Any advice. and
if you are afraid to give it because of the implications of law suits this notice
serves to hold you harmless if I take your advice. also does any one have
the drag spar modification that was sent out after Denis flew the ultrastar
to distruction?
Srglink
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Cowan <tcowan1917(at)direcway.com> |
well, aint had any to-dos with actual water injection but you can bet your
life it will take out the carbon. As a basic mechanic for most of my life,
had to keep my cars running using better than I had at the time junk yard
parts. We used to and I still did up to about ten years ago, use water to
clean an engine.(dont try that one at home kiddies unless you are real
careful.) Yep, I would slowly pour water down the carb top with the engine
running high. Do it very slowly and dont let anything lock up or chug
down. It used to clean the valves and piston tops to a polished shine. I
always liked to do this before I did an overhaul. (acually, back then to us
poor people, new rings were about as much as we could aford)
another answer for the guy who wants to know if a cyunna could be a good
engine. Yep, if you watch what you are doing, stay in its perimeter and
dont push it too hard. watch the temps real close and most of all, dont try
to outclimb a rotax!! ted cowan, alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Masqqqqqqq(at)aol.com |
Stirling engines........
I'm researching and developing a usable Stirling engine. Don't hold
your breath, it's a long way off, and might never happen.
Right now Stirling engines are available as small toys, and small fans
that sit on top of a woodstove. The only large Stirling engines that put out
any usable horsepower weigh a LOT, and are not anywhere near aircraft
application.
As far as I know, the Stirling aircraft engine exists in theory only at
this time.
It's my intention to build a Stirling engine suitable for my Kolb
UltraStar, successfully fly it, patent it, sell the patent, and retire on my own
south seas island, where I would be King.
Hey, a guy can dream, can't he?
The benefits of a my Stirling engine in an aircraft would be:
*silent operation
*low fuel consumption....about a gallon an hour of light oil, like
kerosene,
fuel oil, jet fuel, diesel.
*increased power with altitude. That's because it relies on a
temperature
differential for power, and the colder the ambient, the better it
runs.
*smooth, vibration free operation.
Take a look at my website. www.iverstuff.com
There's a button labelled "ultralights" with lots of pics of my
UltraStar, and other ultralights.
There is also a button labelled "stirling". The page is blank,
because I don't have any success to show yet.
Check out the webpage
http://users.moscow.com/oiseming/lc_ant_p/lnk_stir.htm
Lots of links to Stirling engine sites.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fw: need info |
Srglink,
I am running a ULII-02 Cuyuna on a new FireFly, I have 35 hours or so on it
so far, and it has give me no probs, In fact, I believe it is the easiest
starting engine on the Flightline at the airpark I fly from..never more than
a pull or 2 on the rope and its running. I chose this engine because over
the years, I have had more expierience with it than any other engine
suitable for the Little Kolb, and I trust it.AS long as I get to maintain
it.
38hp at 6200rpms...very little difference between it and a 447. which runs
up to 6600 I think...just dont turn the Cuyuna quite so fast.
I burn 3 gal/hr or a tad less at 60 mph and 5300at cruise with a 2.65 to one
new 2si gearbox. I originally installed a new 2si 2.5 belt drive on it and
cruised at 60 mph at 5000rpms....burning just a little bit less fuel. Climb
performance is about the same it seems. I have a 60" 3 bladeIVOprop (I have
2 actually, a right and a left hand) and used both on the 2 different
drives, but one actually measures a little over 61 inches.. The "sweet spot"
in rpms is right around 5000 give or take a couple hundred, it has a very
nice long , flat torque curve. Prop pitched for 5600 static..I get about 78
mph(corrected) at 6100...there is a link below to my airplane webpages.
Dont be afraid of seeing 1400 on the EGT, as due to the probe placement will
show higher EGT numbers than a Rotax...but watch CHT and treat those
readings the same as any other engine. But 1400 or so should be about your
top limit.
The only failures I have ever had were busting a belt (fan cooled) in flight
once and it got me back to the airpark (about 10 miles) with no problems. I
noticed the temps going way up and turned around..I was at about 3500agl and
worked the throttle alot keeping the trying to keep the temps down on the
way back. AS I had seen some pretty high CHT's I was pretty worried., the
rear cyl was at 480 when I noticed the problem..but upon cylinder
examination later...it didnt hurt a thing.
I dont know which Cuyuna you have on that bird, but the ULII-02 was the King
of ultralight engines several years ago..I ran several on weedhoppers and
ran a Cuyuna 430 in a Scorpion 440 snowmobile for a long time back in the
early 80's .I did burn a hole in a piston on this sled chasing coyotes..but
I never did blame the engine! And fixed it in one afternoon. Those have been
the only 2 failures I have ever had on this engine type in ...jeez..almost
20 years...(gulp!)
The ULII-02 is the engine Cuyuna optimized for ultralight use, and is
slightly different than the oldest 430's and has different pistons and jugs
than the newest 2SI 460's..I think it is the best they ever had, personally.
One really nice thing about this engine, is the cost of the parts...the
support the aftermarket snowmobile industry has for it, and the large
numbers that have been produced. Making cost of overhauls/repairs alot less
than any other 2 stroke I can think of.
Complete gasket sets are 30 bucks or less for instance.
DONT be tempted to "update" this engine with Bing carbs....you cannot get
any better than the Mikuni's that came on them.
IN fact, I know several fellas who have had the newer 2si 460's and replaced
the Bings with Mikuni's...they will all testify that the engine ran
better,,had more power, and better fuel economy. I persinally believe that
this has been a great contributor to the bad reputation that 2si has
recieved. Bing never gave any market support to this application and the
choices of jets and needles and such for Bing equipped/Cuyuna/2si engines is
very poor..particularly when compared to Rotax.(personal opinion
again..probably should keep that to myself I guess)
The manufacturer didnt switch to Bings because they were better...but
because Mikuni went the route that the so many have and let the liability
scare chase them right out of the aircraft engine market, and quit supplying
carbs to any manuf. that was marketing engines for aircraft.
As far as changing it to electric start...it will bring alot of weight with
it. Not in just the starter.. but you must add a flywheel, and a very heavy
flywheel cover plate/starter mount and you cant use a belt drive with this
arrangement, you must use a gearbox...so if you compare the overall weight
of a belt-drive, recoil start..to a electric start gearbox drive...you have
a substantial difference.
And BTW...Welcome to the world of Kolb ownership....they are without a
doubt, great little planes!
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net> |
I was flying with my brother yesterday during our Christmas visit. He had recently
replaced his stall indicator at his annusal and it was still a little too
sensitive. I was wondering if anyone has such device on their Kolb? Also, does
anyone have the AOA (angle of attack) lights on their plane? After 30 years
of not piloting since getting my SEL license, I was able to take off his Gruman
Cheetah without any assistance. I would be very leery, however, of attempting
a landing without recent instruction.
We now have the family farm airstrip (my brother and parents live there in separate
homes)-2200' grass strip 9 miles east of Owensboro KY. I live about 140
miles east of there. Hope to fly the Kolb there someday. My takeoff yesterday
was from the concrete airport runway, not the grass strip.
Clay Stuart
Danville KY
building Mark IIIXtra
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: stall warning |
Clay
Most of us don't have any kind of stall warning. The Kolb airplanes have a
very slow stall speed so you notice when your are close to a stall by the
feel of the controls and the wind noise. The other thing is (personal
opinion) that these airplanes slow down so fast that you would be into the
stall before you would be able to react to most stall warning devices. It's
extremely rare to that any one stalls a Kolb in anything other than landing
flair. These stalls are from the 10-20 ft range and cause bent landing gear
( I really don't want to say how I know this).
I have a 1400 foot strip and it is long by most Kolb people's standards.
That 2200 foot strip will feel like a jet can land there from a Kolb point
of view.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clay Stuart" <tcstuart(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: stall warning
>
> I was flying with my brother yesterday during our Christmas visit. He had
recently replaced his stall indicator at his annusal and it was still a
little too sensitive. I was wondering if anyone has such device on their
Kolb? Also, does anyone have the AOA (angle of attack) lights on their
plane? After 30 years of not piloting since getting my SEL license, I was
able to take off his Gruman Cheetah without any assistance. I would be very
leery, however, of attempting a landing without recent instruction.
>
> We now have the family farm airstrip (my brother and parents live there in
separate homes)-2200' grass strip 9 miles east of Owensboro KY. I live
about 140 miles east of there. Hope to fly the Kolb there someday. My
takeoff yesterday was from the concrete airport runway, not the grass strip.
>
> Clay Stuart
> Danville KY
> building Mark IIIXtra
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Olenik Aviation" <olenik-aviation(at)buyitsellitfixit.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Honda Aircraft Engine |
Hey Don,
What do you think about this? Any basis in the real world?
Tom Olenik
Honda and Teledyne team for possible aircraft engine project
Steven Mackay
Staff
Honda Motor Co. Ltd. and Teledyne Continental Motors Inc., the latter with a
plant in Mobile, have their eyes on the sky with a burgeoning project that
could produce aircraft engines.
The project is only in the feasibility study stage, according to Jeffrey
Smith, a spokesman for Honda at its Florence, Calif., facility. He says the
piston engine, to be used for small, personal aircraft, is "potentially
superior" to others presently on the market. Features of the four-cylinder,
water-cooled engine include low fuel usage, lighter weight and higher
output.
"It will be environmentally friendly," Smith says.
Now under way, the study will determine potential marketing, servicing and
product launch customers for the engine. Based on its work on motorcycle and
automobile engines, Tokyo-based Honda says it developed the piston engine
that is being tested at Teledyne's Mobile plant. The prototype stems from
two years of work between the two companies.
It is not known if the engine would be produced at either Honda's Lincoln
plant or Teledyne's Mobile plant, or elsewhere, once it is approved for
production. Honda officials would not say where the prototype was built.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FW: Honda Aircraft Engine |
Tom,
All I know for certain is we have one on each end of a Cessna SkyMaster and
it has been gathering test flight hours. American Honda HQ is pretty well
keeping most of the performance details secret, and the Engineers assigned
to the project are from Japan. The partnership with TCM is to take advantage
of their marketing expertise, and their relationships in the US Gov arena.
The First target will actually be for a US Gov bid for engines and parts for
a UAV. If we win this project. Then the engine will be offered to the GA
market, and certification will be attempted. If we dont......likely it will
be shelved.
I can tell you this. The engine is just what you would expect from Honda as
far as technology goes. Computer controlled fuel mapping, ignition, timing,
and the works. Just like we currently make for auto engines...The best quote
I think I can tell you I have heard is from one of the engineer's assigned
here to the project would be.."The pilots tell me that the only thing they
have flown behind that was as smooth burned JetA"
I have a couple of pics somewhere of it if you want me to dig em up and send
em to ya. Nothing secret tho..only what has been approved for release.
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ALEMBIC7(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Honda Aircraft Engine |
Don,
If it's on a skymastyer, it sounds like it will be too big for most of our
needs? (I want about 100hp, doesn't everyone?)
AZ lurker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TAILDRAGGER503(at)aol.com |
Will a electric fuel pump work as a primer?
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FW: Honda Aircraft Engine |
Az,
Talk around here is...3 versions...225, 275, and 300 hp ...but Fellas, this
is really way too early, if it happens, it will be 2, maybe 3 or more years
away from now..there will contunue to be market studies...new technology
developing that might change the engine. One thing I have learned in my 10
years of working for Honda....Things are done VERY slowly...different
divisions handle announcements differently, but on new products that are
released for markets we already participate in...5 years or so before a
press release that even admits we are working on it, a couple more before
you see an authorized picture, and a couple more before production. These
are for markets we are ALREADY in!
Now..markets we are considering entering?...well...nobody here really Knows
how long.
I know that Honda once built a very large and high tech wind tunnel in the
USA at a major University, along with a engine test cell that was also very
high tecnology. A couple of aircraft were developed and there were at least
4 prototypes...all different and evolving. Tens of millions of dollars were
invested. Then...somewhere upstairs...Honda decided to abandon the whole
thing and donate it to the university, along with the prototypes. No engines
were ever developed or run in the test cell. "We have decided not to pursue
that market" was the company line. BOOM...just like that all the personell
were pulled and sent back to Japan, little or no tech support was offered to
the university for future projects, and I spoke with a fella from the
aviation program there and he told me that turbine engine test cell has
never been used because they never could figure out how to operate it...it
was very complex and Hi tech. Some of you may have seen the last prototype
aircraft around at airshows promoting the Universities Aviation program.I
know I saw it at OshKosh year before last.
Then...soon after we find out that Honda in Japan is working on the current
jet engine project (this was about1986), and still we dont have any idea
when, or if we will ever get there. But today we call it the HF 118
turbofan...and there is an aircraft to go along with it simply called the
HondaJet.
Type in HF 118 HondaJet into any search engine and I imagine you will find
lots of press on it....
So as for the Honda recip....about all I can speculate is....If the US gov
buys it for their UAV's....then we might see one on a GA bird.
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Honda Aircraft Engine |
I vote for a 4-stroke 40 to 50 HP for UL single place application.
jerb
>
>Don,
>If it's on a skymastyer, it sounds like it will be too big for most of our
>needs? (I want about 100hp, doesn't everyone?)
>AZ lurker
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Olenik Aviation" <olenik-aviation(at)buyitsellitfixit.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Honda Aircraft Engine |
There is no market for it. No one is buy ANY 40 hp engines. At least not
enough to justify making them. If you want 50 HP, well you're getting
pretty close to the nich that HKS is filling.
If there were a demand for them, they would make them, but there just isn't
enough demend to do it and do it right.
Tom Olenk
Olenik Aviation - Supplying the lighter side of sport aviation.
Level III Repair Station for Rotax Aircraft Engines
Dealer for Summit Powered Parachutes
http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com
Toll Free: 877-AIR-MOTORS
Buy from a dealer who can support what they sell......
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of jerb
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: FW: Honda Aircraft Engine
I vote for a 4-stroke 40 to 50 HP for UL single place application.
jerb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
I've asked this before, and now hafta do *something.* I'm using the spam blocker
on Outlook Express, under "message," "create rule for message," and all it
seems to do is intensify the spam. Nearly 2,000 blocked addresses now, and still
getting over 200 spams a day, and nearly that many kicked directly into the
"deleted" file. A huge number from that "paris hilton" foolishness. This is
insane, and companies are defending their "right" to do this to us, while our
joyful politicians dither. I'd like to defend my right to strangle the bastards.
Some time ago, Don G. and a couple of others recommended
the "Postini" spam blocker, but looking at their website makes me think they're
aimed at commercial users. Is this true, or do they work with individuals
?? I thought about the Earthlink version, but I understand that you have to
enter the addresses you'll accept mail from. This is awkward for me, cause I
get many emails from website readers, off-line Kolb Listers, etc. I've gotta
do something, sports fans..................this is driving me loco.
Hair Pullin' Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Carr" <dcarr(at)uniontel.net> |
My ISP offers "Postini" to its users at no charge and it works great. A few
spams get through but not many. A few valid emails get caught and held by
postini so I check the caught ones several times a day but that is easier
them sorting through spams online. Works for me!
DEC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Spam
>
> I've asked this before, and now hafta do *something.* I'm using the spam
blocker on Outlook Express, under "message," "create rule for message," and
all it seems to do is intensify the spam. Nearly 2,000 blocked addresses
now, and still getting over 200 spams a day, and nearly that many kicked
directly into the "deleted" file. A huge number from that "paris hilton"
foolishness. This is insane, and companies are defending their "right" to
do this to us, while our joyful politicians dither. I'd like to defend my
right to strangle the bastards. Some time ago, Don G. and
a couple of others recommended the "Postini" spam blocker, but looking at
their website makes me think they're aimed at commercial users. Is this
true, or do they work with individuals ?? I thought about the Earthlink
version, but I understand that you have to enter the addresses you'll accept
mail from. This is awkward for me, cause I get many emails from website
readers, off-line Kolb!
> Listers, etc. I've gotta do something, sports
fans..................this is driving me loco. Hair
Pullin' Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> www.gogittum.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
Dear Lar:
I can't offer you (or anyone) a recommendation for another spam blocker, but
I can offer you some advice, for what it's worth.
First, the Direct Marketing Association has a website where you can register
to have your name and other IDs, such as your email address, placed on a
do-not-contact list. When I last checked it was free. I did this with my
postal address, phone number, and email and it substantially reduced the
amount of junk mail/phone calls I get though of course I still get a few.
The bad news is that it can take up to 3 months for the registration to
"filter through" all the various companies that use DMA's listing. Here's
the website:
http://www.dmaconsumers.org/consumerassistance.html
Of course, only the more reputable firms do this, but it's a start and
really cut down the volume of traffic I have to deal with.
Secondly, using the method you described in Outlook Express isn't going to
block spam emails successfully, as you're discovering. What you're doing is
blocking each sender, one at a time, as you experience mail from it.
Unfortunately, many of these outfits use blind sites, which of course is why
they're spam, and don't use the sending address more than a day or two
before creating a new one. There's SOME relief, but it means you have to
study and anticipate the kinds of messages you get and build rules based on
the SUBJECT line. Here's where it gets hairy. For example, we've all
probably been bombarded by the "increase male performance" messages. So I
set up a rule that excluded anything mentioning Viagra. But then I started
getting messages touting v1agra. As I learned the tricks these bozos use,
I've had to keep updating my rules to include all sorts of drug names, body
part names, and so on. It's a pain, but at that I believe it's probably
taking me much less time in a week to update those rules than it's taking
you every day to block each message. It's the old, old story that as soon as
you make something idiot-proof, they come out with a better grade of idiot.
These spamming knuckleheads are constantly trying to find ways to get around
the blocking of people who don't want their messages. So we're constantly in
a reactive mode to their "attacks," not unlike the anti-virus software
companies. What's ironic to the max, at least to me, is this. If I don't
want your message, and you irritate me so much with them anyway, what in
blazes is the chance that I'll ever buy your product? In other words, all
the effort these screwballs put into getting around my express wishes to the
contrary is completely wasted. What a world.
Anyway, because some of the terms are offensive, I'm not going to post my
rule here, but I will send it to you offline and you can use it or ignore it
as you choose.
On the other hand, if you find a better spam "solution," please share it
with us!
-Ken Fackler
Kolb Mark II / A722KWF
Rochester MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Spam
>
> I've asked this before, and now hafta do *something.* I'm using the spam
blocker on Outlook Express, under "message," "create rule for message," and
all it seems to do is intensify the spam. Nearly 2,000 blocked addresses
now, and still getting over 200 spams a day, and nearly that many kicked
directly into the "deleted" file. A huge number from that "paris hilton"
foolishness. This is insane, and companies are defending their "right" to
do this to us, while our joyful politicians dither. I'd like to defend my
right to strangle the bastards. Some time ago, Don G. and
a couple of others recommended the "Postini" spam blocker, but looking at
their website makes me think they're aimed at commercial users. Is this
true, or do they work with individuals ?? I thought about the Earthlink
version, but I understand that you have to enter the addresses you'll accept
mail from. This is awkward for me, cause I get many emails from website
readers, off-line Kolb!
> Listers, etc. I've gotta do something, sports
fans..................this is driving me loco. Hair
Pullin' Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> www.gogittum.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Hauck" <jimh474(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: marII twinstar |
I may start a "chit" storm here, but I have been known to do that. I rebuilt
a Twinstar for Adriel Hiessy a few moons ago. While I was rebuilding, I
added some structural tubes to the cage and he is using a 912 on his
twinstar now.
If the large bay between the landing gear and rear portion of the cage is
broken up with an additional X member and the rear Box is crossed braced it
will carry a 912. This only adds very few pounds of weight.
If any one is interested I have pic's of the changes I made to Adriels gage.
Jim Hauck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Mon Valley Dates |
Kolb Friends -
I just got my Kitchen Pass for attending our 2004 Monument Valley
get-together!
I'll likely trailer my plane up from the Albuquerque area.
What are the generally-agreed on dates so far?
I recall seeing talk of 14-17 May (Fri-Mon). Is that still the plan?
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, Verner-powered in
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: marII twinstar |
Jim H, Gang
Speaking of cage mods...Brother John explained to me once that the FireFly
front half of the cage was the same as the original FireStar...or something
like that..I cant remember zactly...now...what mods..if any..do you think
might be needed on the back half to make a Firefly save to carry a 503...or
maybe a 582...??
or is that getting going to far?. The goal would be only to get about 10 or
15 mph more cruise so as to be able to keep up in flight with the fellas who
cruise at 70 or so...My FireFly will run that fast now...but it is about
stem wound at that speed...and I sure would like to go along on some of the
cruises that the boys go...but dont want to overtax my engine.
cant quite keep up!
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: markII twinstar |
Don/All,
I've got a MkII/503 that will someday go in for a restoration. If I find
it can't
keep up with my pals, I think I'd go to a Mk3 rather than all the guesswork of
reengineering for an engine it wasn't designed for. I'd never second-guess Homer,
plus I
like having some options (912, 914, Hirth, VW, etc.). Just my .02 worth.
Ed in JXN
MkII/503
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Gherardini" <donghe@one-eleven.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: marII twinstar
>
> Jim H, Gang
>
> Speaking of cage mods...Brother John explained to me once that the FireFly
> front half of the cage was the same as the original FireStar...or something
> like that..I cant remember zactly...now...what mods..if any..do you think
> might be needed on the back half to make a Firefly save to carry a 503...or
> maybe a 582...??
> or is that getting going to far?.
(Snip)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FW: Honda Aircraft Engine |
Jerb...Tom....
This just shows how much I know also...I am with Jerb...in thinking that a
great 40 horse 4 stroke would be just the ticket....But Tom has the
expierience of a fella in the biz of supplying engines to this market....and
I know he is right as I have heard this from other sources...50 hp is about
the minimum size that gets ant attention anymore....I dont understand
it...just dont seem right...and I cant figger out why!!!!
Maybe if the SPort pilot rule actually causes the ultralights to become more
legal by registering all the "heavies", and the "gap" between registered and
non-registered widens this would change, and "true" part 103 UL's become
more than just the prototype that a manufacturer builds for the entry level
model, with most sales goping to the "heavies"...but somehow I just dont
think so...I kinda think it has to do with the ability to enforce the
rules...and I do see yet how the new rulings will change this other than on
2 seaters.
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | FW: Honda Aircraft Engine |
Tom O,
Your right Honda couldn't produce a small engine at a competitive price.
You say their is no market for a 40-50 HP engine. I'm not so sure about
that. Do you recall Amtech's Buddy Twin - it had a lot of interest at Sun
& Fun - however they made some radical changes from what they presented one
year to their next appearance two years later and ended up missing the
target. If they would have moved forward with what they originally
presented, they could have gone head to head with Rotax and captured a good
portion of the small engine market.
The ThunderChieft Citron conversion had a lot of promise as a small engine
for the UL's especially tractor configuration. It was compact, had all the
goodies (starter, generator). It's too bad they never finished the
development. They were on the right track.
One of the sleeper is the Constant Pressure engine - they could have a
significant influence if they ever get it out. They were also working on
an retro-fit kit for the VW. Could their crank technology be applied to
the 1/2-VW to reduce it's balance issue, it could be a significant
factor. Of coarse what their end products weighs and cost will be the issue.
Last I guess is the Needleye engine. It coming along but still not here
and like any other new engine expect there to be teething problems until it
is field proven. Right now they have 170 flight hours on one of the
development engines. Could put a little competitive pressure on the
HKS. It may be a little heavier but then again if you add up the weight
with all the hoses, coil cooler, tanks, etc, they may be very close in
actual weight.
jerb
>
>
>There is no market for it. No one is buy ANY 40 hp engines. At least not
>enough to justify making them. If you want 50 HP, well you're getting
>pretty close to the nich that HKS is filling.
>
>If there were a demand for them, they would make them, but there just isn't
>enough demend to do it and do it right.
>
>Tom Olenk
>Olenik Aviation - Supplying the lighter side of sport aviation.
>Level III Repair Station for Rotax Aircraft Engines
>Dealer for Summit Powered Parachutes
>http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com
>Toll Free: 877-AIR-MOTORS
>Buy from a dealer who can support what they sell......
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of jerb
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: FW: Honda Aircraft Engine
>
>
>I vote for a 4-stroke 40 to 50 HP for UL single place application.
>jerb
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FW: Honda Aircraft Engine |
OK...OK....easy now men....Jerb is right!....To all who have sent me the
notices about his post..of course I read it.
And no I am not gonna set him straight...think about it.
Honda is almost as big as General motors The only way a company of this size
can produce anything effieciently is in large volume.
Yes...Honda's ability and technology probably enables then to produce the
most advanced engines in the world..but to be able to market them
successfully, we need a very large market.
YES, as some have said...
snip<<< look at the price of those v-twins..I just got a Northern tool
catalogue in the mail and a 24hp V-twin is 1399.00>>>>....
Snip<<<>>>...
YA...I know all this....but here is the deal, and I have said it
before...the market is too small... Honda can produce 100,000 engines better
and cheaper than anybody else on the planet...but there is no way that Honda
could produce a dozen engines anywhere close to the cost that a small "Mom &
Pop" shop could....or even a1000...and I doubt that at the 10,000 engine
level Honda could make em cheaper than what is on the market already.
Think of it this way men....if Kolb sent NASA....or General Motors... a
FireFly kit...do you think that they could put it it together cheaper than
you could in you shop at home? Of course not...maybe they could assemble
10,000 FireFly kits cheaper than you or I could at home...because of the
production tecnology they have ...I really dont know where the volume
numbers must cross with the market prices, and many other details I study
every day...but for Honda,,it is a bigger Number than the whole
UL/microlight/little airplane market is worldwide.
So..Jerb is correct .
<<>> SNIP/.......as long as the market is so small....
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
Hey has anyone noticed the Haul-A-Hangar that serves the purpose of a
enclosed trailer and a hangar once at site. A neat concept. Might be
worth looking into.
http://www.ultralightflyer.com/haulahangar/index.htm
jerb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FlyColt45(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: marII twinstar |
I know a few friends that have 503's on their MKIIs. One of them routinely
hauled his chunky self and other beefy guys with no problems at all! It is
certainty enough power. I had a 583 on mine and probably never needed it. My
2
cents! (sorry Dick : )
Jim Cote
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James and Cathy Tripp" <jtripp(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Brass Nuts and Toggle Switches |
Questions for the list:
1. Instruments are screwed onto the panel with black oxide brass screws. I found
the screws I need but what about the nuts? Does anyone have a part number or
source for brass nuts or do you use something else?
2. I'm also looking for what type of toggle switch to use for the master switch
and power switches to accessories like fuel pump, EIS, mag kill, com, strobes,
etc.
I'm not that smart on electronics (OK, I'm not all that smart period) so any tips
would be greatly appreciated.
James Tripp
FSII, still painting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: marII twinstar |
Could be that it's how the individual feels. I flew a 503 powered Mk II
about 6 yrs ago, with a 240 lb instructor. Add in my 200 lbs, and I was
very glad we were at El Mirage dry lake, with about 7 miles of "runway."
Climb was very slow, and stall, cruise, and top speeds were so close
together that I felt like we were right on the edge, the whole time we were
flying. It didn't hurt my feelings a bit to get out of THAT airplane.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <FlyColt45(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: marII twinstar
>
> I know a few friends that have 503's on their MKIIs. One of them
routinely
> hauled his chunky self and other beefy guys with no problems at all! It
is
> certainty enough power. I had a 583 on mine and probably never needed it.
My 2
> cents! (sorry Dick : )
> Jim Cote
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Honda Aircraft Engine |
I know it's a little outside the area you need, but I was highly impressed
with Dennis Kirby's Verner engine when I visited him in Albuquerque last
year. A little less power than the 912, but, unless I'm mistaken, quite a
bit less money and (I think) less weight, too. Being air-cooled keeps it a
little simpler, as well. He's got a very nice setup there, and he's very
pleased with it. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerb" <ulflyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: FW: Honda Aircraft Engine
>
> Don,
> You have to keep this into perspective - Tom can sell only what he can get
> and make money on. Rotax no longer makes the 277 and judging by his
recent
> post sounds like Rotax is trying to make things difficult for him. He
> began to push some 2Si but now that gig went South. What's left -
Hirth,
> Rotax or HKS. If you noticed he's now talking up the HKS. For smaller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ronnie wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
dumb question, cuyuna II-02, the other day taxi'ed in hit the switch and it kept
running, had to choke it to kill it, so the question doe's this engine start
with a complete circuit or does it ground out like a mag??
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: on/off switch |
Just the opposite of the Rotax, Cuyuna II needs a ground to run and an open
will stop the engine. I would suspect you have a shorted switch or grounded
wire.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Olenik Aviation" <olenik-aviation(at)buyitsellitfixit.com> |
| Subject: | FW: Honda Aircraft Engine |
How many engines per year do you think a company could sell in the 40 HP
class? I don't know of any company, including Rotax that is selling enough
of them to justify making them unless they charge more than most are willing
to pay. Not even worth messing with. Even the 447 is an endangered species
if sales drop any more.
Nobody is buying them. 447's are a very rare engine anymore. The hard part
is that it costs nearly as much to produce a 40 HP engine as it does a 60 HP
engine. So would you pay $7000 for a 40 HP HKS that weighed 70 or 80
pounds? It would weigh less, but the cost to produce it would be about the
same. So they either need to loose money or sell it for the same price as
the higher HP engine.
And what constitutes a market? A bunch of people griped and complained when
they stopped making the 277, but when they stopped production, they were
only selling 50 engines per year world wide. It took another 3 - 5 years to
sell the last 50 engines. No body wanted a legal UL. They would rather be
illegal and have more power. That is the way things have been.
Now an engine like a Briggs & Stratton is not even touched by human hands
when it's manufactured...or so I've heard. I guess the engine is completely
assembled by machines and even set in the box by one. Of course they are
probably making 1000 times more in volume also.... and they have just a
fraction of the legal defense costs.
Tom Olenik
Olenik Aviation - Supplying the lighter side of sport aviation.
Level III Repair Station for Rotax Aircraft Engines
Dealer for Summit Powered Parachutes
http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com
Toll Free: 877-AIR-MOTORS
Buy from a dealer who can support what they sell......
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of jerb
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: FW: Honda Aircraft Engine
Tom O,
Your right Honda couldn't produce a small engine at a competitive price.
You say their is no market for a 40-50 HP engine. I'm not so sure about
that. Do you recall Amtech's Buddy Twin - it had a lot of interest at Sun
& Fun - however they made some radical changes from what they presented one
year to their next appearance two years later and ended up missing the
target. If they would have moved forward with what they originally
presented, they could have gone head to head with Rotax and captured a good
portion of the small engine market.
The ThunderChieft Citron conversion had a lot of promise as a small engine
for the UL's especially tractor configuration. It was compact, had all the
goodies (starter, generator). It's too bad they never finished the
development. They were on the right track.
One of the sleeper is the Constant Pressure engine - they could have a
significant influence if they ever get it out. They were also working on
an retro-fit kit for the VW. Could their crank technology be applied to
the 1/2-VW to reduce it's balance issue, it could be a significant
factor. Of coarse what their end products weighs and cost will be the
issue.
Last I guess is the Needleye engine. It coming along but still not here
and like any other new engine expect there to be teething problems until it
is field proven. Right now they have 170 flight hours on one of the
development engines. Could put a little competitive pressure on the
HKS. It may be a little heavier but then again if you add up the weight
with all the hoses, coil cooler, tanks, etc, they may be very close in
actual weight.
jerb
>
>
>There is no market for it. No one is buy ANY 40 hp engines. At least not
>enough to justify making them. If you want 50 HP, well you're getting
>pretty close to the nich that HKS is filling.
>
>If there were a demand for them, they would make them, but there just isn't
>enough demend to do it and do it right.
>
>Tom Olenk
>Olenik Aviation - Supplying the lighter side of sport aviation.
>Level III Repair Station for Rotax Aircraft Engines
>Dealer for Summit Powered Parachutes
>http://www.buyitsellitfixit.com
>Toll Free: 877-AIR-MOTORS
>Buy from a dealer who can support what they sell......
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of jerb
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: FW: Honda Aircraft Engine
>
>
>I vote for a 4-stroke 40 to 50 HP for UL single place application.
>jerb
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brass Nuts and Toggle Switches |
Seems to me that my instruments came with clips that pressed in from behind
and held the screws, instead of using nuts. I did find that Ace Hardware
& Aircraft Supply carries those little nuts, tho............but they're not
black. For most of the switches, I used heavy duty over the counter
toggle switches, but for the master I got a 30 amp relay from a Mercedes
Benz, and used it to take the load off the switch. Looks like it'll work
good. Once you have the base wired in, the relay just plugs into it. Have
a problem, plug in the spare...........they're small and very light. On the
lighter loads, I used the mini switches from Radio Shack. Make sure you
look at the load that your component is going to draw, and check the switch
to see that it's rated for that load - and be sure to check the voltages.
DC current is harder on switches than AC. On my website, under Building
Vamoose/Instrument Panel, the 2 switches for the EGT gauge, and the top 2 in
the group of 6 are the mini switches; the others are 20 amp toggles. Be
sure to click the link to enlarge the picture. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "James and Cathy Tripp" <jtripp(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Brass Nuts and Toggle Switches
>
> Questions for the list:
>
> 1. Instruments are screwed onto the panel with black oxide brass screws. I
found the screws I need but what about the nuts? Does anyone have a part
number or source for brass nuts or do you use something else?
>
> 2. I'm also looking for what type of toggle switch to use for the master
switch and power switches to accessories like fuel pump, EIS, mag kill, com,
strobes, etc.
>
> I'm not that smart on electronics (OK, I'm not all that smart period) so
any tips would be greatly appreciated.
>
> James Tripp
> FSII, still painting
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russ Kinne <kinnepix(at)earthlink.net> |
tests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_12_24
Kolbers
A few random suggestions about the Alaska trip a number of you will be
making --
Consider taking TWO mosquito head-nets. You can easily lose one, and in
some places it=92s near-impossible to survive without one.
Good idea to have a couple space-blankets too.
Fishing is great everywhere, and a collapsing spin - rod, or
pack-fly-rod doesn=92t take up much room. But be advised you will need an
AK license, which for a nonresident will be expensive. A few years ago
it was $50 as I recall.
Bears. Stay away! -- usually easy to do. Make noise while in the bush,
whistle, sing, whatever. They=92ll probably stay away from you. Talk to
the locals about where bears are likely to be, and what to do about
them.
Forget about guns. Handguns will only make them mad, and I doubt any of
you have enough large-bore shooting and big-game hunting experience to
kill a bear safely.
This is no place for an ego trip.
The only gun I=92d consider is a small .22 that floats, stores in its
own stock and is waterproof. THAT would be good to have, and as
survival equipt, no permits are needed. You=92ll find that Alaskans are
much more sensible than lower-48-states-ers.
Bear spray is good -- IF you think you=92ll encounter a bear. It will
squirt MACE-type stuff 25-30 feet, and you don=92t want to get any closer
-- or even that close. You can=92t legally fly (commercially) with it or
mail it. I think ground UPS is OK, but check. You can buy it at
outfitter-stores in AK.
Don=92t count on your cell-phone if you go anywhere away from the cities.
The satellite-phones will work EVERYwhere, but are expensive -- 2 years
ago it was $4 per minute.
A hand-held GPS is a very good idea, in a pinch to let people know
where to find you. Back it up with a small smoke-flare just in case.
Always carry a small signal-mirror -- they can be seen 10-20 miles away.
I=92m sure you=92ll have some simple tools like Vise-Grfps -- but also
carry a can of =93Fix-A-Flat=94 and perhaps a spare inner-tube. In a pinch
you can fill a tire with coiled rope or even sand; but if so, make a
most gentle landing.
It=92s a great State. Enjoy the trip.
Russ Kinne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: on/off switch |
----- Original Message -----
From: "ronnie wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: on/off switch
>
> dumb question, cuyuna II-02, the other day taxi'ed in hit the switch and
it kept running, had to choke it to kill it, so the question doe's this
engine start with a complete circuit or does it ground out like a mag??
>
>
> Ron,
The ULII 02 is backward on the ignition switch, a ground is hot and open is
off.
Denny Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brass Nuts and Toggle Switches |
The Aeroelectric Connection list is really worthwhile. Matronics hosts the
list for that too, and the archives have some great discussions. I bought
Bob Nuckoll's book and wired my Mk III/912 according to diagram Z-7. Bought
switches, grounding block, connectors, tools, relays, overvoltage switch,
contactors from B&C. Sure took a lot of the guesswork out of wiring it up,
and I feel good knowing how and why it's wired the way it is.
http://www.aeroelectric.com/ has links to get the book and to B&C. I think
you can download the wiring diagrams free, he has a bunch.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Brass Nuts and Toggle Switches
>
> Seems to me that my instruments came with clips that pressed in from
behind
> and held the screws, instead of using nuts. I did find that Ace
Hardware
> & Aircraft Supply carries those little nuts, tho............but they're
not
> black. For most of the switches, I used heavy duty over the counter
> toggle switches, but for the master I got a 30 amp relay from a Mercedes
> Benz, and used it to take the load off the switch. Looks like it'll work
> good. Once you have the base wired in, the relay just plugs into it.
Have
> a problem, plug in the spare...........they're small and very light. On
the
> lighter loads, I used the mini switches from Radio Shack. Make sure you
> look at the load that your component is going to draw, and check the
switch
> to see that it's rated for that load - and be sure to check the voltages.
> DC current is harder on switches than AC. On my website, under Building
> Vamoose/Instrument Panel, the 2 switches for the EGT gauge, and the top 2
in
> the group of 6 are the mini switches; the others are 20 amp toggles. Be
> sure to click the link to enlarge the picture. Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> www.gogittum.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James and Cathy Tripp" <jtripp(at)elmore.rr.com>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: Brass Nuts and Toggle Switches
>
>
>
> >
> > Questions for the list:
> >
> > 1. Instruments are screwed onto the panel with black oxide brass screws.
I
> found the screws I need but what about the nuts? Does anyone have a part
> number or source for brass nuts or do you use something else?
> >
> > 2. I'm also looking for what type of toggle switch to use for the master
> switch and power switches to accessories like fuel pump, EIS, mag kill,
com,
> strobes, etc.
> >
> > I'm not that smart on electronics (OK, I'm not all that smart period)
so
> any tips would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > James Tripp
> > FSII, still painting
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
| Subject: | Propellor change |
I have made an alteration to my two blade wood prop that has
produced amazing results, at least as far as I'm concerned. I
know that I'm in a minority when it comes to props, being a
traditionalist who needs the wood. But for any others of a
similar affliction out there I thought I would pass along what I
experienced.
I was talking to the local RC Model store guy and we got on how
many of the more advanced ideas in aircraft are first tried out
on models. He told me one of their biggest concerns was noise
which can lead to loss of flying fields. Then he told me how the
new props had really helped to cut down the noise and at the same
time increase performance. My ears perked up big time! He
showed me the new wood props made by Top Flight with their Power
Point tips. I took one look and thought, wow, maybe I could do
that to my 66 inch Tennessee prop.
The idea is to reduce the tip vortex's that cause the noise and
steal efficiency. I think it's the same idea behind the Prince
Prop's except this is a simpler solution. This may not be new,
but it is too me!!
Anyway, I considered this for some time. Took the measurements
off a large Top Flight prop and proceeded to mark off my prop and
cut the tips. My friend watched me hesitate several times before
actual cutting, realizing I may be ruining a perfectly good
prop. Next I spent a week balancing and refinishing the tips and
couldn't wait to try it. The weather conspired against me for
another week and finally got to try it two days before Christmas.
As the engine first fired up I noticed immediately how much
quieter it was. After climbing in and taking off I found it was
like being in a new airplane. Different sound altogether. Had
been warned by the owner of Tennessee Props that the upper rpm
might increase, but that didn't happen. Now after putting
several hr.'s on it I find I have to readjust my flying for the
improved performance, such as cruise and landing rpm's. I think
I've gained about 4 mph at cruise with a fuel burn of around 2
gph. I now have to throttle back more on decent for landing.
This was done to a Tennessee Prop, 66 x 30 with urethane leading
edge. So much gain for so little change to me is amazing!
Hope this is of some interest to the list,
Terry - FireFly # 95, Rotax 447, 255 hr.'s
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Propellor change |
Terry,
Tell us what you did to it.
Dale Sellers
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry" <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Propellor change
>
> I have made an alteration to my two blade wood prop that has
> produced amazing results, at least as far as I'm concerned. I
> know that I'm in a minority when it comes to props, being a
> traditionalist who needs the wood. But for any others of a
> similar affliction out there I thought I would pass along what I
> experienced.
>
> I was talking to the local RC Model store guy and we got on how
> many of the more advanced ideas in aircraft are first tried out
> on models. He told me one of their biggest concerns was noise
> which can lead to loss of flying fields. Then he told me how the
> new props had really helped to cut down the noise and at the same
> time increase performance. My ears perked up big time! He
> showed me the new wood props made by Top Flight with their Power
> Point tips. I took one look and thought, wow, maybe I could do
> that to my 66 inch Tennessee prop.
>
> The idea is to reduce the tip vortex's that cause the noise and
> steal efficiency. I think it's the same idea behind the Prince
> Prop's except this is a simpler solution. This may not be new,
> but it is too me!!
>
> Anyway, I considered this for some time. Took the measurements
> off a large Top Flight prop and proceeded to mark off my prop and
> cut the tips. My friend watched me hesitate several times before
> actual cutting, realizing I may be ruining a perfectly good
> prop. Next I spent a week balancing and refinishing the tips and
> couldn't wait to try it. The weather conspired against me for
> another week and finally got to try it two days before Christmas.
>
> As the engine first fired up I noticed immediately how much
> quieter it was. After climbing in and taking off I found it was
> like being in a new airplane. Different sound altogether. Had
> been warned by the owner of Tennessee Props that the upper rpm
> might increase, but that didn't happen. Now after putting
> several hr.'s on it I find I have to readjust my flying for the
> improved performance, such as cruise and landing rpm's. I think
> I've gained about 4 mph at cruise with a fuel burn of around 2
> gph. I now have to throttle back more on decent for landing.
>
> This was done to a Tennessee Prop, 66 x 30 with urethane leading
> edge. So much gain for so little change to me is amazing!
>
> Hope this is of some interest to the list,
>
> Terry - FireFly # 95, Rotax 447, 255 hr.'s
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brass Nuts and Toggle Switches |
At 10:51 PM 12/29/2003, you wrote:
>
>
>Questions for the list:
>
>1. Instruments are screwed onto the panel with black oxide brass screws. I
>found the screws I need but what about the nuts? Does anyone have a part
>number or source for brass nuts or do you use something else?
A lot of "model shops" carry those.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
| Subject: | Propellor change |
Richard, Ralph, Ken, Dale and All,
I didn't reduce the diameter of the prop, but cut the tips at an
angle of 20 deg. from the leading edge towards the trailing edge
letting the trailing edge the same diameter as before. This only
reduces the leading edge diameter. Also making a radius of one
half inch from the leading edge to the angle cut tip. Then the
whole tip is shaped into an airfoil, transitioning from the
leading edge back.
I don't have the ability to post photo's, one, because the
pictures are still in the camera and two, I don't have a
scanner. I'm using an antique computer as of now! Will try and
have my friend post pics in the future.
In the mean time, the best way you can see what I did is to go to
a RC model shop and look at the Top Flight wood props with the
Power Point tips. They also do this with their plastic props
although a little different over all.
Hope this helps,
Terry - FireFly # 95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gherkins Tim-rp3420 <rp3420(at)motorola.com> |
| Subject: | Tom Olenik question about Rotax 503 |
Tom (Kolbers)
I am wanting to move my oil tank on my Rotax 503 DCDI oil pump/injection system.
One afternoon while talking design and upgrades, my uncle Craig suggested that
I move the oil tank out of the slip stream. The tank is located above and
behind the engine, near the prop. I am sure it dirties air right before it enters
the prop.
Here is my question: Is there a Rotax spec that says it has to be mounted in that
location? I want to move it down in front of the engine right above the oil
pump system. Is there a height the oil tank has to be above the oil pump?
Is it gravity fed? Or, is there a oil pump?
Many benefits for me doing this: Cleans up the slip stream, gets oil tank off the
vibrating engine, places it in a location for easy oil level verification-I
can see it thru my Lexan gap seal, shortens the oil line from tank to pump, helps
CG.
One con I can think of: Harder to reach for filling.
Tell me what you know, or where I can get the info.
Much appreciated,
Tim Gherkins
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: relocating oil tank |
Yes, it is gravity fed, the oil pump (if you can call it that) will not
suck oil uphill at all, and the tank outlet has to be above the oil pump
in all configurations. I agree that it is good to reduce the drag, and I
put the tank on mine within a streamline ahead of the engine to help
improve the air flow around the engine. Pictures on this site:
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg2.htm
I have not found it to be difficult to fill, but the MKIII is sturdy enough
to stand on the boom tube to reach the engine, that may not be true of the
smaller Kolbs, (???) and I can't remember which one you have.
It seems that since improving the airflow around the engine on the MKIII,
it takes less throttle to fly at cruise speeds, but since I have also
changed so many other things, it is hard to say which change accomplished
which improvement.
Anyway, it makes sense to streamline as much as you can, provided things
stay simple. I say go for it.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Tom (Kolbers)
>
>I am wanting to move my oil tank on my Rotax 503 DCDI oil pump/injection
>system. One afternoon while talking design and upgrades, my uncle Craig
>suggested that I move the oil tank out of the slip stream. The tank is
>located above and behind the engine, near the prop. I am sure it dirties
>air right before it enters the prop.
>
>Here is my question: Is there a Rotax spec that says it has to be mounted
>in that location? I want to move it down in front of the engine right
>above the oil pump system. Is there a height the oil tank has to be above
>the oil pump? Is it gravity fed? Or, is there a oil pump?
>
>Many benefits for me doing this: Cleans up the slip stream, gets oil tank
>off the vibrating engine, places it in a location for easy oil level
>verification-I can see it thru my Lexan gap seal, shortens the oil line
>from tank to pump, helps CG.
>
>One con I can think of: Harder to reach for filling.
>
>
>Tell me what you know, or where I can get the info.
>
>Much appreciated,
>
>Tim Gherkins
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: relocating oil tank |
Richard/Gang:
Happy New Year everybody.
> I have not found it to be difficult to fill, but the MKIII is sturdy
enough
> to stand on the boom tube to reach the engine, that may not be true of the
> smaller Kolbs, (???) and I can't remember which one you have.
I have always stood on the tailboom of my old Firestar and Mark III, plus
the factory Fire Fly, Fire Star, Sling Shot, and Kolbra. Put a piece of no
skid on the tailboom and your shoes won't mar the paint and you won't slip
and bust your ass. Back in the Firestar days, I did not have any non skid
tape, so I took off my shoes every time I hoped up there to do stuff to the
top of the engine.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
RCVD_IN_DYNABLOCK 2.60, RCVD_IN_SORBS 0.10)
Kolbers,
Can anyone suggest a good drill bit? I'm using Dewalt Industrial cobalt bits and
going through them like crazy!
pp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
You shouldn't need Cobalt drills bits unless your drilling chrome moly or
steel and even then you don't need them for that. Key to drilling steel is
slow speed, lots of pressure and some oil. You don't have to spin a drill
bit very fast on steel and it heats up to the point of changing it hardness
and dulls the bit. You can also work hard the location in the material
your attempting to drill.
For aluminum I use standard drills rated for steel, not just wood. The
Black & Decker Bullet Pilot Point bits can be useful at times but I have
found that they do not last long drilling aluminum. I used to buy my drill
bits from Enco by the dozen but the last batch of China drills were too
hard, chipped or broke easy. Prior purchases worked very well. When
drilling aluminum the bit collects a small amount of aluminum on the tip
just behind where the cutting edge starts. You need to clean this off
periodically. Use some bee wax or Boeing Lube also helps reduce the build
up. For larger sizes 3/16", 1/4" you can sometimes find resharpened high
quality US made metal drill bits - got some 1/4" from a local surplus
outlet and they just eat there way through steel.
I haven't been impressed with those expensive DeWalt drill bits.
jerb
>
>Kolbers,
>Can anyone suggest a good drill bit? I'm using Dewalt Industrial cobalt
>bits and going through them like crazy!
>
>pp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi(at)supernet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Propellor change |
Terry wrote:
> This was done to a Tennessee Prop, 66 x 30 with urethane leading
> edge. So much gain for so little change to me is amazing!
>
> Hope this is of some interest to the list,
Ok let's see it! Where is the pictures? -- Earl Z.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
You better be careful..............if'n I took you up on it, you'd be stuck.
:-) ............and don't think it ain't a temptation............you've got
a verrry nice place there. Tempted Lar. Do
not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Spam
<rharris@magnolia-net.com>
>
> LAR, Just another reason you you need to get out of CAL. Remember what I
> said about this place when you were here? 2800 feet, big hanger, nobody
but
> me and my MK3, but you got to help mow..
>
> c-ya
>
> Richard Harris
> MK3 N912RH
> Lewisville, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Wait a second, here....................mow ?? MOW ?? I don't even like to
mow my back yard. Half a mile of
airstrip....................uh..................no
deal.................sorry ! ! ! Deadbeat Lar. Do
not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Spam
>
> You better be careful..............if'n I took you up on it, you'd be
stuck.
> :-) ............and don't think it ain't a temptation............you've
got
> a verrry nice place there. Tempted Lar.
Do
> not Archive.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> www.gogittum.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Spam
>
>
> <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
> >
> > LAR, Just another reason you you need to get out of CAL. Remember what I
> > said about this place when you were here? 2800 feet, big hanger, nobody
> but
> > me and my MK3, but you got to help mow..
> >
> > c-ya
> >
> > Richard Harris
> > MK3 N912RH
> > Lewisville, Arkansas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ronnie wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
hey lar i can get ya a deal on some of them'thar' mowin type goats.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Spam
>
> Wait a second, here....................mow ?? MOW ?? I don't even like
to
> mow my back yard. Half a mile of
> airstrip....................uh..................no
> deal.................sorry ! ! ! Deadbeat Lar. Do
> not Archive.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> www.gogittum.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Spam
>
>
> >
> > You better be careful..............if'n I took you up on it, you'd be
> stuck.
> > :-) ............and don't think it ain't a temptation............you've
> got
> > a verrry nice place there. Tempted Lar.
> Do
> > not Archive.
> >
> > Larry Bourne
> > Palm Springs, CA
> > Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
> > www.gogittum.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Richard Harris" <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Spam
> >
> >
> > <rharris@magnolia-net.com>
> > >
> > > LAR, Just another reason you you need to get out of CAL. Remember what
I
> > > said about this place when you were here? 2800 feet, big hanger,
nobody
> > but
> > > me and my MK3, but you got to help mow..
> > >
> > > c-ya
> > >
> > > Richard Harris
> > > MK3 N912RH
> > > Lewisville, Arkansas
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy(at)lycos.com> |
| Subject: | Oil injection tank |
Hi,
Well two things that I didn't like about that tank you have...It stuck up in
the air (parisite drag) and the price was around $265.
Here's a site where I have some pictures of the tank I made...it fits between
the cooling fan and the starter motor on my 503....
http://www.homebuiltairplanes.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=467
The pictures are at the bottom of the page....It's also another good site for
help...or helping others.
Hope this helps,
Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN
SNIP>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
From: Gherkins Tim-rp3420 <rp3420(at)motorola.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Tom Olenik question about Rotax 503
Tom (Kolbers)
I am wanting to move my oil tank on my Rotax 503 DCDI oil pump/injection system.
One afternoon while talking design and upgrades, my uncle Craig suggested that
I move the oil tank out of the slip stream. The tank is located above and
behind the engine, near the prop. I am sure it dirties air right before it enters
the prop.
Here is my question: Is there a Rotax spec that says it has to be mounted in that
location? I want to move it down in front of the engine right above the oil
pump system. Is there a height the oil tank has to be above the oil pump?
Is it gravity fed? Or, is there a oil pump?
Many benefits for me doing this: Cleans up the slip stream, gets oil tank off the
vibrating engine, places it in a location for easy oil level verification-I
can see it thru my Lexan gap seal, shortens the oil line from tank to pump, helps
CG.
One con I can think of: Harder to reach for filling.
---
Sometimes you just have to take the leap
and build your wings on the way down...
Gotta Fly...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy(at)lycos.com> |
Hi Guys,
Buy bits by the fist full ???????????
SHARPEN THEM....it's not that hard. If you have that many bad ones,experiment
!
Yes, it's harder to sharpen those tiny bits, but if it isn't working, sharpen
it again...
TIPS :
1.) Keep dipping the bit in water while sharpening it so it stays hardened.
2.) Take two NUTS...hold them together (flat to flat)
each flat is 60 degrees...The angle the two nuts make when held together ( I have
a set welded together just for this ) is the best angle for drill bit....although
sometimes you may need it otherwise...
3.) Make sure the "heel" of the bit is LOWER than the cutting edge ..or it will
rub and create HEAT.
4.) like the guys say "watch your speed"
I can BUST a bit in half and still sharpen it
I would first Square it up then,start the angles and drop the heel lower.
There are other tricks...you can grind into the bit making the contact point
smaller so the bit doesn't "WALK" when you drill.
Sounds like with all the bits you have that YOU think are junk, you could experiment...
PS in my older age, I have one of those magnifiying lights by my grinder and
sander...those little bits are harder to see.
Hope this helps..
Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN
---
Sometimes you just have to take the leap
and build your wings on the way down...
Gotta Fly...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lawrence M. Rice" <tailwind5(at)juno.com> |
Folks,
Remember that when you are switching incandescent bulbs, you need to
allow for high inrush current. A cold tungsten filament has very little
resistance, it's almost a dead short. Current is limited by the wiring
system, not the bulb! With the right power supply, I have seen inrush
currents as much as 9 to 10 times the normal hot filament current draw.
So, be sure and use a switch with a DC rating a good 5 times as much as
the steady burn rating of the bulb(s).
Larry the MicroMong guy
________________________________________________________________________________
Paul...
If you can get em...try Lawson bits...they aint bad...or Chicago
Latrobe...(CL)
I will tell you this....you aint gonna find a blackndecker bit at walmart
that is worth carring home.
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
for those who might coment from your web page you might say "put kolb in the
subject line" or if you make a link to your mail from your web page it can
be programed to automaticly put "kolb" in the subject line. the code i used
for that is
You can email comments about my pages to:
Boyd keep "kolb" in the subject line.
on the page it looks like.
You can email comments about my pages to:
Boyd keep "kolb" in the subject line.
it seems that the code for the email link was inturperted by my software and did
not show up. i will try again.
You can email comments about my pages to:
(
)() (herf)()(")mailto:by0ung(at)brigham.net(?)subject()kolb, webpage comment(")(>)Boyd()keep "kolb" in the subject line.
you will have to remove all of the ( ) they were included so the software
would not act on the code
or you could go to my page http://www.brigham.net/~byoung and click on "view" "source"
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dril bits 101 |
In a message dated 12/31/2003 11:34:21 AM Eastern Standard Time,
planecrazzzy(at)lycos.com writes:
Hi Guys,
Buy bits by the fist full ???????????
SHARPEN THEM....it's not that hard. If you have that many bad
ones,experiment !
Yes, it's harder to sharpen those tiny bits, but if it isn't working,
sharpen it again...
It's a little expensive at around $80, but Lowe's carries the "Drill Doctor"
which does a really good job of sharpening drill bits.
Howard Shackleford
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
ok guys.... i have tried twice to show how to post the mail link and have the
subject line allready filled in, and parts of the code are still being processed....
best to go to the webpage and view the source code.. if anyone would
like more info let me know.
boyd
>(
>)() (herf)()(")mailto:by0ung(at)brigham.net(?)subject()kolb, webpage comment(")(>)Boyd()keep "kolb" >in the subject line.
>you will have to remove all of the ( ) they were included so the software
>would not act on the code
> or you could go to my page http://www.brigham.net/~byoung and click on "view" "source"
>boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Upgrading from Cheng Shin to Titan Turf Glide tires |
I know there has been different discussions in the past on tires but I want
to add my experiences on changing mine over this past week, which may help
others. After 9 yrs. and 1100+ t/o and landings, my original 6.00 x 6 Cheng Shins
were about worn out and needed replacing. I decided to go after more of a
real looking aircraft tire and chose the Titan Turf Glide as I like the tread,
size, shape, and general looks of it. It is 8.00 x 6 and mounted on my Matco
rims they stand about 17" tall. After removing the brake set up and axel, I
spent about a 1/2 hr with screw drivers, tire irons, hammers, and jumping up &
down on the tire trying to seperate the tire from the rims. Being by myself, I
decided to not try the deal with a 2x4 lying on the tire and driving on it with
my car. Oh well, off to the local (family owned) tire shop. Took the fella
about 30 seconds each to pop the tires off the rims using the machine with the
blade pushing on the tire. Refused to take a penny so I said I'll see you
when the car needs tires and he said "thank you". Once home, I cleaned the rims
with "Goop" to remove old rubber residue, installed the new tubes, coated the
rims and tire beads with soapy water and brought on the air. Thanks to John
Hauck doing all the trial and error with the tire pressures on the MK 3, I'll
go right ahead with the 6-8 lbs. A couple of problems I ran into were: when
bolting the two rim halves back together, there are 6 bolts. 3 go through the
rims and 3 go through the rims and into the aluminium part that has the
bearings. I put the 3 through the rims and then tried to align the other 3 with
the
aluminium part. Big mistake. Do it the other way around. Even after trying to
enlarge the holes to bolt the al. part on, I walked away, had a cup of coffee
and the light went on in my head,"Hey dummy, bolt the al. part on first". The
other thing was that the tubes came with 90 degree bent air valves. They seem
to work ok but I need to pull them away from the rim to get the air chuck onto
them. Probably a valve with less of an angle would have worked better. Won't
get to try them out until nicer weather comes.
Happy New Year to all on the list
Fly Safe
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | the smell of polybrush in the evening |
| From: | Erich_Weaver(at)URSCorp.com |
01/01/2004 02":11:59.PM(at)matronics.com,
MIME-CD complete at 01/01/2004 02:11:59.PM(at)matronics.com,
Serialize by Router on SMTP102/URSCorp(Release 5.0.11 |July 24, 2002) at
01/01/2004 02:10:25.PM(at)matronics.com
John W.:
Nice work!
Tell us what the panel is that appears in your pictures to be mounted
directly above your new gas tank. Also, in your photo no. 1468, there is a
small box that looks like it is directly below the front lord mount for the
engine. What is that?
Happy new year. See you in May.
Erich Weaver
erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
130 Robin Hill Road, Suite 100
Santa Barbara, California 93117
Tel: 805-964-6010
fax: 805-964 0259
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: the smell of polybrush in the evening |
Erich and all,
Looking forward to the Monument Valley gathering. It is my inspiration to
this thing finished and right.
The panel on the left side is the old fuel filler access, I haven't made the
cut-out so the door will work yet. The panel on the right side is where the
new filler port is.
The small aluminum box under the forward right side lord mount I use to
weather proof two electrical connectors that connect the engine wiring
harness to the airframe harness. (A Radio Shack product)
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolb Kolbra: 508 hours, Rotax 912 ULS
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot/
no not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dril bits 101 |
In a message dated 12/31/03 8:45:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, HShack(at)aol.com
writes:
> SHARPEN THEM....it's not that hard. If you have that many bad
> ones,experiment !
> Yes, it's harder to sharpen those tiny bits, but if it isn't working,
> sharpen it again...
>
>
> It's a little expensive at around $80, but Lowe's carries the "Drill Doctor"
> which does a really good job of sharpening drill bits.
>
>
> Howard Shackleford
> FS II
> SC
>
Howard, you may be right, but I just got a drill sharpener from Harbor
Frieght in Houston and I must say it sucks for sharpening SMALL bits....er ....
maybe I need a bunch more practice.....I am forced to do them buy hand. And their
instructions are either wrong or very confusing. I know about the proper
angle and cleanout angle etc, but I have gotten very poor results on this lil 115
volt cantankerous puppy.
George RAndolph
firestar driver from Akron/ The Villages, Fl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dril bits 101 |
George,
Take it back to Harbor freight and get a refund.
Go to Lowe's and get a Drill Doctor - they have two models - you just
missed their sale just before Christmas. The more expensive model works
really well, males some operations even easier plus it can do a few other
things. Talk to the Tool Dept sales associate about both units. He should
be able to explain the differences and benefits of each.
jerb
>
>In a message dated 12/31/03 8:45:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, HShack(at)aol.com
>writes:
>
>
> > SHARPEN THEM....it's not that hard. If you have that many bad
> > ones,experiment !
> > Yes, it's harder to sharpen those tiny bits, but if it isn't working,
> > sharpen it again...
> >
> >
> > It's a little expensive at around $80, but Lowe's carries the "Drill
> Doctor"
> > which does a really good job of sharpening drill bits.
> >
> >
> > Howard Shackleford
> > FS II
> > SC
> >
>
>Howard, you may be right, but I just got a drill sharpener from Harbor
>Frieght in Houston and I must say it sucks for sharpening SMALL bits....er
>....
>maybe I need a bunch more practice.....I am forced to do them buy hand.
>And their
>instructions are either wrong or very confusing. I know about the proper
>angle and cleanout angle etc, but I have gotten very poor results on this
>lil 115
>volt cantankerous puppy.
>
>George RAndolph
>firestar driver from Akron/ The Villages, Fl
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Propellor change |
Terry,
What kind of RPM are you running where you picked up the 4 MPH?
During take off at full throttle what RPM are you seeing?
Has your fuel burn changed, if so from what to what?
Think this would work on a IVO two blade prop?
Thanks for the info,
jerb
>
>I have made an alteration to my two blade wood prop that has
>produced amazing results, at least as far as I'm concerned. I
>know that I'm in a minority when it comes to props, being a
>traditionalist who needs the wood. But for any others of a
>similar affliction out there I thought I would pass along what I
>experienced.
>
>I was talking to the local RC Model store guy and we got on how
>many of the more advanced ideas in aircraft are first tried out
>on models. He told me one of their biggest concerns was noise
>which can lead to loss of flying fields. Then he told me how the
>new props had really helped to cut down the noise and at the same
>time increase performance. My ears perked up big time! He
>showed me the new wood props made by Top Flight with their Power
>Point tips. I took one look and thought, wow, maybe I could do
>that to my 66 inch Tennessee prop.
>
>The idea is to reduce the tip vortex's that cause the noise and
>steal efficiency. I think it's the same idea behind the Prince
>Prop's except this is a simpler solution. This may not be new,
>but it is too me!!
>
>Anyway, I considered this for some time. Took the measurements
>off a large Top Flight prop and proceeded to mark off my prop and
>cut the tips. My friend watched me hesitate several times before
>actual cutting, realizing I may be ruining a perfectly good
>prop. Next I spent a week balancing and refinishing the tips and
>couldn't wait to try it. The weather conspired against me for
>another week and finally got to try it two days before Christmas.
>
>As the engine first fired up I noticed immediately how much
>quieter it was. After climbing in and taking off I found it was
>like being in a new airplane. Different sound altogether. Had
>been warned by the owner of Tennessee Props that the upper rpm
>might increase, but that didn't happen. Now after putting
>several hr.'s on it I find I have to readjust my flying for the
>improved performance, such as cruise and landing rpm's. I think
>I've gained about 4 mph at cruise with a fuel burn of around 2
>gph. I now have to throttle back more on decent for landing.
>
>This was done to a Tennessee Prop, 66 x 30 with urethane leading
>edge. So much gain for so little change to me is amazing!
>
>Hope this is of some interest to the list,
>
>Terry - FireFly # 95, Rotax 447, 255 hr.'s
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Vincent <emailbill(at)chartermi.net> |
My 2 cents worth
I have been working in a metal fabricating shop for 32 years and
have sharpened many drill bits by hand.
One thing I have learned over the years is there is a clearance on each
side of the spiral, running from the
shank to the cutting edge, leaving only about .062 of an inch on the
side of the spiral.
It is hard to see, but if this clearance is wore down near the
cutting edge it will cause binding and
an under size hole.
I recommend squaring off the bit before sharpening to get rid of this
worn spot. Also the more the bit is
sharpened and the shorter it gets, the spade will get wide in the
center. It will have to be ground
narrower. I have found that a drill bit will last a long time .
Bill Vincent
Firestar II
Upper Peninsula of Michigan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
Thom, jerb,
I wish I could post pictures for you, but as I stated earlier I
don't have a scanner and I'm using an old windows 95 computer as
of now. Have taken a couple of pictures, but still have the film
in the camera. If you want a good close up of what I did, just
visit your nearest model airplane shop and look at the new Top
Flight wood props for RC's. That's where I got my idea from and
the dimensions! I did try my best to describe what I did on an
earlier post.
I'm experiencing the 4 mph gain at cruise, which for me is at
5,000 to 5,200 rpm. The fuel burn is still the same at
approximately 2 gph. This is not the reason I made the change.
My intent was to eliminate prop noise, which it has done and the
reason the RC boys are using this design. It worked better than
expected on my full size prop!!! The gain in performance is just
a side benefit. Hope this answers some of your questions!
Now, a question for the list. Have any of you had any experience
with an intake silencer for the carb. I'm thinking that may be
my next step. Since making the alterations to the prop tips,
most of what I'm hearing is coming out of the carb. When I turn
my head to the right towards the carb, I get more noise than
when I turn my head to the left towards the muffler. Just
thinking of reducing another source of noise and increasing my
comfort zone! Guy's at the airport I fly into say I am already
much quieter then other 2 stroke UL's.
On a personal note, I got to fly today, the first day of 2004.
It was cold but worth every minute! Maybe I should build that
full enclosure? Nah!!!!!!!!!!
Terry - FireFly #95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Intake silencer |
Had one for my Rotax 277 on my Hummer years ago, was very effective, slight
power loss.
Tried it on a Rotax 503 and experienced a bit more noticable power loss.
Depending on if you can afford to give up a bit of power, it will probably
do what you want.
If I keep my 582 (I have a possibility going on a 912) that will be my next
project, however I will attempt to build my own, I am not convinced that
the one Rotax supplies is what I want, since I am not willing to give up
any power.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> Have any of you had any experience
>with an intake silencer for the carb. I'm thinking that may be
>my next step. Since making the alterations to the prop tips,
>most of what I'm hearing is coming out of the carb. When I turn
>my head to the right towards the carb, I get more noise than
>when I turn my head to the left towards the muffler. Just
>thinking of reducing another source of noise and increasing my
>comfort zone! Guy's at the airport I fly into say I am already
>much quieter then other 2 stroke UL's.
________________________________________________________________________________
Terry, Ill tell ya what..I built by Fly with the full windsheild...and no
rear enclosure(had it in the box..but never put it on)...I tried the short
windsheild for a week...lost about 8 or 9 mph...got a stiff neck ....now I
have that a full enclosure back on on my FireFly, including the rear wrap
..I doubt if I will ever go back to the short sheild. And the way the Kolb
purchased rear part of the enclosure fits up...there is absolutly no wind at
all..none..zip...It is so much more comfortable. the only thing I dont
like...is I cant loosen the shoulder strap and reach forward to the
panel..because my head hits before my finger reachs ...no biggie really...as
I put all needed switchs on a side panel and the gps mount extends the unit
about 4 inchs aft..which is just right.
Better fuel economy and faster....dont know what else i couild ask for! It
does not seem lke it is worth the money when you look at it in the box...but
a fella can spend a whole lot more looking for 8 to 9 mph.
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Cowan <tcowan1917(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: short and long windshields |
I guess I have different results with my original firestar with the
windshields. I have found over the years, seven or so, that the short
windshield goes faster, less stick pressure and gets better gas consumption
than the full enclosure does. I like the full enclosure for the colder
months in the South here but the short is much more fun to fly with. I have
revised the short one to extend further back but more upward I guess. It
covers my face from the wind better and is easier to enter and exit the
vehicle. There are apparently, many different flight characteristics
between the original (the best design) firestar and the firefly but
officicially, the firestar is very difficult to get to FAR 103. I love my
little firestar but have recently upgraded to the slingshot. I wanted the
extra. I am getting ready to completely redue the firestar from ground up.
If anyone wants it for $8000 right now, speak quick or it will be a 'new'
plane in about three months.
By the way, I have heard from those who are building and buying the big
Rans 7 and such that they believe ultralights as the firestar will be a
thing of the past when the new regs come out. I dont believe it. There are
many, many guys out there who want the little, easy to fold and store and
transport, single seaters to play with. The ones that have no intention or
desire to risk their lives to travel accross the continent. I believe the
market is not going to change that much. I dont think newbees are going to
have the thirty or forty thousand dollars to buy heavier, faster, almost ga
planes any more than they do today. So, all you out there with the
original, and IIs and such, buck up, your still going to be a force to recon
with. Besides, I can still go up for less than three gals an hour and have
more fun in twenty minutes than the big ones ever dreamed of. my opinion.
Ted Cowan, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Guy Morgan" <morganguy(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brass Nuts and Toggle Switches |
Go to EDMO's website. They have "Nut Rings," which is what we've gone to for installing
our instruments instead of the little brass "grasshoppers." It's an aluminum
ring that fits around the instrument with inserts on the corners for the
brass screws. I love 'em and they're worth every penny. If you've ever dropped
a grasshopper behind the instrument panel and had to fish it out, you'll know
what I mean. As for the switches, check out Aviall. They should have any aviation
grade switch you could ever need. As with everything else, I advocate
using aviation grade parts instead of something you get at NAPA. Yeah, I know
it costs more, but for me it's worth it. If you've got your electrical system
properly protected, you shouldn't have a problem if a switch shorts out but I'd
rather have the insurance of a quality part that isn't likely to fail. Take
care, and if you have any wiring questions, let me know. I do this for a living
and would b
e glad to help out.
Guy Morgan
Galveston, TX wanna-be Kolber
1. Instruments are screwed onto the panel with black oxide brass screws. I found
the screws I need but what about the nuts? Does anyone have a part number
or source for brass nuts or do you use something else?
2. I'm also looking for what type of toggle switch to use for the master switch
and power switches to accessories like fuel pump, EIS, mag kill, com, strobes,
etc. I'm not that smart on electronics (OK, I'm not all that smart period)
so any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Working moms: Find helpful tips here on managing kids, home, work and yourself.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Propellor change |
>
>improved performance, such as cruise and landing rpm's. I think
>I've gained about 4 mph at cruise with a fuel burn of around 2
>gph. I now have to throttle back more on decent for landing.
>
Terry,
This is great! What was your cruise speed before the change? How did the character
of the sound change? Did you loose high or low pitch or just overall sound
levels were reduced?
I checked GOOGLE for RC propeller info and found that the angle range can be from
20 to 35 degrees. If you don't mind, I will put up a sketch to describe how
it is done.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Roster for MV - 2004 |
John B and all,
Sorry if I have left anyone off this list. If so, please let me know and I
will put it on real quick.
I have also invited a couple of powered parachute flyers to come on out that
were very interested in flying in Monument Valley. So as you can see, we
love Kolbs but will fly with almost anything.
Does your frined Bruce from MS have an email address?
Folks that have stated there interest in gathering at Monument Valley during
May 14-17, 2004:
John Hauck, jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com
John Williamson, kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net
Boyd Young, by0ung(at)brigham.net
Craig Nelson, vitalfx0(at)msn.com
Dave Pelletier, pelletier(at)cableone.net
Dave Rains, rr(at)htg.net
Dennis Kirby, Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil
Erich Weaver, erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
Gary Haley, ghaley(at)wt.net
Jim Hefner, hefners_tucson(at)hotmail.com
John Bickham, BICUM(at)aol.com
Larry Bourne, biglar(at)gogittum.com
Larry Cottrell, lcottrel(at)kfalls.net
Tim Gherkins, rp3420(at)motorola.com
Tom Kuffel, kuffel(at)cyberport.net
Will Uribe, WillUribe(at)aol.com
Ted Cowan, tcowan1917(at)direcway.com
Jim Clayton, jspc78(at)yahoo.com
Bruce Williams,
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolb Kolbra: 508 hours, Rotax 912 ULS
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Propellor change |
Jack & Louise Hart wrote:
>
> >
> >improved performance, such as cruise and landing rpm's. I think
> >I've gained about 4 mph at cruise with a fuel burn of around 2
> >gph. I now have to throttle back more on decent for landing.
> >
>
> Terry,
>
> This is great! What was your cruise speed before the change? How did the character
of the sound change? Did you loose high or low pitch or just overall
sound levels were reduced?
>
> I checked GOOGLE for RC propeller info and found that the angle range can be
from 20 to 35 degrees. If you don't mind, I will put up a sketch to describe
how it is done.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
Jack,
I went from about 51 mph at 5,000 rpm to about 55 mph. Again this wasn't the reason
for the change, just an added bonus. I now have to rethink my approach
for landing because of
having to reduce rpm more than before.
I have found the overall noise level to be much reduced. I made my angle at 20
degrees. The RC prop I measured was at 23 degrees, but I didn't want to take
that much off not knowing
what was going to happen. Turned out great.
Please do post a drawing since I'm not able. Someone had asked if this might work
on props other than wood. I don't know, but I don't see why not! Top Flight
also makes a plastic
version of this vortex free idea.
Anyone trying this, do so with the idea of possibly sacrificing a prop! I'm just
reporting my experience.
Terry - FireFly #95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
Richard,
Would appreciate knowing what you have in mind for constructing
your own silencer. Thanks for you input on the loss of power due
to the silencer. I only read where if would require change of
main jet.
Terry - FireFly #95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 447 Intake Silencer |
>
>Thom, jerb,
>
>Now, a question for the list. Have any of you had any experience
>with an intake silencer for the carb. I'm thinking that may be
>my next step. Since making the alterations to the prop tips,
>most of what I'm hearing is coming out of the carb. When I turn
>my head to the right towards the carb, I get more noise than
>when I turn my head to the left towards the muffler. Just
>thinking of reducing another source of noise and increasing my
>comfort zone! Guy's at the airport I fly into say I am already
>much quieter then other 2 stroke UL's.
>
Terry,
I had an intake and exhaust silencers on the Rotax 447 for a short time. From
my flight log:
"March 26, 2000. Finished mounting the air intake silencer. Too windy to move
the plane outside. I can not fold the right wing with the silencer on. I will
have to rework the mounting so that it attaches with pins so that the silencer
can be easily removed for wing folding.
March 29, 2000 Flight 41, 11 minutes, 19:18 tt, 50 degrees F. The intake silencer
is very effective. Knocks out the high end frequencies. Made a good cross
wind landing.
March 30, 2000 Flight 42, 10 minutes, 19:28 tt. Installed exhaust silencer, and
flew to check it out. No noticeable difference in noise level. I am going
to remove it. It is not worth the weight penalty. Need to rework the fuel pump
placement and to put on some metal gas lines for greater reliability. Three
bounce landing in a 8mph cross wind from the left. I let my eyes drift too
close. I need to practice more cross wind landings with the wind from the left."
This was early in the life of the FireFly, and I had trouble keeping the intake
silencer mounts from breaking, and so I removed it. I sold both silencers to
someone on the Kolb list.
For pilot comfort an ANR head set is a big help and it weighs much less and costs
about the same. I did not notice a loss of power while the intake silencer
was mounted.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
Some one on list should be able to answer this question:
How much can you cut back on a 64" IVO prop without jeopardizing it's
integrity or cut into or to close to the torsional rods that are used to
adjust the blades twist.
jerb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
>
>Some one on list should be able to answer this question:
>How much can you cut back on a 64" IVO prop without jeopardizing it's
>integrity or cut into or to close to the torsional rods that are used to
>adjust the blades twist.
>jerb
>
jerb,
The smallest size listed by IVO is 48 inch diameter prop. See:
http://www.ivoprop.com/ultralightmodel.htm
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
Jack,
What I am trying to determine is how much latitude do I have in cutting of
prop tips off a IVO 64" two blade prop without interfering with the torsion
rod or getting to close to it to weaken it - a 48" prop may start off with
shorter torsion rods.
jerb
>
> >
> >Some one on list should be able to answer this question:
> >How much can you cut back on a 64" IVO prop without jeopardizing it's
> >integrity or cut into or to close to the torsional rods that are used to
> >adjust the blades twist.
> >jerb
> >
>
>jerb,
>
>The smallest size listed by IVO is 48 inch diameter prop. See:
>
>http://www.ivoprop.com/ultralightmodel.htm
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Jackson, MO
>
>
>Jack & Louise Hart
>jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
>
>Jack,
>What I am trying to determine is how much latitude do I have in cutting of
>prop tips off a IVO 64" two blade prop without interfering with the torsion
>rod or getting to close to it to weaken it - a 48" prop may start off with
>shorter torsion rods.
>jerb
jerb,
It is my understanding that all IVO blades are manufactured the same length, and
then they are cut to the size the customer wants. But it is worth a call.
There is a 800 number on the bottom of the jump.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
"James Tripp" asked:
< I'm also looking for what type of toggle switch to use for the master
switch
and power switches to accessories like fuel pump, EIS, mag kill, com,
strobes,
etc. James Tripp >
James, and Kolbers -
I used military toggle swithces (2 seperate ones) for my ignition (kill)
switches in my Mark-3. I prefered 2 big toggles to the rotating-key type
ignition switch that is stnadard on most GA planes. You can still find 'em
by the binfull at most electronics surplus stores. They're heavy duty and
very robust - takes an intentional tug to throw the switch, not like the
wimpy ones you find at Radio Shack. Look for the 3-position type:
Off-On-Momentary off. I use the momentary-off position (which requires you
hold the switch in that position) for doing my mag checks.
I used similar toggles for my accessories, and if you don't mind memorizing
a few switch positions, you might find some clever places to mount switches
easily that don't need to be in your view. I built an auxilliary panel for
all my switches, and its located in a built-in cove, just under the
passenger's thighs on the floorboard. Can't see them from the pilot's seat,
but within easy reach of my right hand. First switch is the master, next
one is fuel pump, 3rd one is strobe, etc. Up is on, down is off. Easy.
Have fun - these custom touches are some of the more fun parts of
homebuilding!
Dennis Kirby
Verner-1400
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Monument Valley 2004 |
Remember you are responsible for making your own arrangements with
Goulding's.
Folks that have stated an interest in gathering at Monument Valley during
May 14-17, 2004:
John Hauck, Kolb Mark III, Titus, AL jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com
John Williamson, Kolb Kolbra, Arlington, TX kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net
Boyd Young, Kolb Mark III, Brigham City, UT by0ung(at)brigham.net
Craig Nelson, Kolb Mark IIIXtra, Gilbert, AZ vitalfx0(at)msn.com
Dave Pelletier, Kolb Mark III or FireStar, Prescott, AZ
pelletier(at)cableone.net
Dave Rains, Cessna 175, El Paso, TX rr(at)htg.net
Dennis Kirby, Kolb Mark III, Cedar Crest, NM Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil
Erich Weaver, Kolb Mark III , Santa Barbara, CA erich_weaver(at)urscorp.com
Gary Haley, Kolb Mark III, Houston, TX ghaley(at)wt.net
Jim Hefner, Kolb FireFly, Tucson, AZ hefners_tucson(at)hotmail.com
John Bickham, Kolb Mark III, St. Francisville, LA BICUM(at)aol.com
Larry Bourne, Kolb Mark III, Palm Springs, CA biglar(at)gogittum.com
Larry Cottrell, Kolb Mark III, Klamath Falls, OR lcottrel(at)kfalls.net
Tim Gherkins, Kolb FireStar II, Gilbert, AZ rp3420(at)motorola.com
Tom Kuffel, Prospector, Whitefish, MT kuffel(at)cyberport.net
Will Uribe, Kolb FireStar II. El Paso, TX WillUribe(at)aol.com
Ted Cowan, Kolb SlingShot,Opelika, AL tcowan1917(at)direcway.com
Jim Clayton, Kolb Mark IIIXtra , Santa Clara, CA jspc78(at)yahoo.com
Bruce Williams, Kitfox, MS
Mark German, Kolb Kolbra, Chisago City, MN aerofab(at)worldnet.att.net
Bill Elder, Kolb Mark III, Conifer CO, billelder(at)denver.net
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolb Kolbra: 508 hours, Rotax 912 ULS
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi(at)supernet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Intake silencer |
Richard Pike wrote:
> I don't know for sure, but I think it would be possible to build a
> lightweight box to enclose the stock Rotax air filter,
Richard,
I never got a chance to look at the intake silencer closely in person,
but from the pictures in the catalogs they almost look like you could
put a filter on either end of the box. That should allow enough air in??
But would probably allow the noise to get out too :-) Maybe the power
loss is the biggest factor in noise reduction?? :-)
Will it work? Will it accomplish anything? Who knows? But I think
> it's worth trying.
I'm eager to see how you make out! There is certainly room for improving
the stealthiness of the kolbs :-) -- Earl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Intake silencer |
This'n jogged my memory on a job from last week, in the midst of the tangle
of the holiday season. Changed out the intake filters for the a/c
control air compressors at work, and was surprised at how simple and
effective they are. Keep in mind that these are only (I think) 10 or 11 cfm
compressors, so yours'll need to be a lot larger. Picture a flat can, like
a tuna can, with a 1/2" pipe fitting for the intake in the center of 1 flat
side. In the round side, at 90 deg., there's a 1/2" tube that goes in PAST
center - about 2/3 of the diameter. The filter makes it a little more
awkward to explain, but that's basically it. The thing's in 2 pieces, so
that you can pull the outer section off to change filters, and expose the
intake to the compressor. With the cover off, it's amazingly loud - almost
like a fairly loud exhaust. Put the cover on, with or without the filter
doesn't seem to make much difference, and it's VERY quiet. I was very
surprised at the difference. Grainger's has a fair selection of complete
silencer/filters, but they're real proud of them - prices are astronomical.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Kolb Mk III - Vamoose N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl & Mim Zimmerman" <emzi(at)supernet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Intake silencer
>
> Richard Pike wrote:
>
>
> > I don't know for sure, but I think it would be possible to build a
> > lightweight box to enclose the stock Rotax air filter,
>
> Richard,
> I never got a chance to look at the intake silencer closely in person,
> but from the pictures in the catalogs they almost look like you could
> put a filter on either end of the box. That should allow enough air in??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Intake silencer |
Terry,
If you want a factory made one you might want to get it ordered. If I
recall right I read something somewhere Rotax was discontinuing them. They
may be hard to get if not already.
jerb
>
>Richard,
>
>Would appreciate knowing what you have in mind for constructing
>your own silencer. Thanks for you input on the loss of power due
>to the silencer. I only read where if would require change of
>main jet.
>
>Terry - FireFly #95
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Raeburn <raeburn(at)snowhill.com> |
| Subject: | Vx and Vy for a Kolb MK III Classic? |
Hi,
does anyone know the Vx and Vy speeds for a Kolb Mk III Classic with a
Rotax 582 ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vx and Vy for a Kolb MK III Classic? |
I get my best rate at about 42, and best angle at around 36, but that is with
vortex generators. Add 4 mph for stock, w/o v/g's. I would suggest starting
a bit faster than that and come up with your own numbers.
Different MKIII's fly differently, & airspeed indicators vary. Assume nothing.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
582, B box @ 2.58:1, 68" 2 blade Ivo w/turbulators
>
>Hi,
> does anyone know the Vx and Vy speeds for a Kolb Mk III Classic with a
>Rotax 582 ?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Derek Lawrence" <Derek(at)prestwoodpetcrematorium.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Kolb Mk111 Xtra cage tubes |
Authenticated-Sender:
Kit arrived for Christmas. Happy xmas from me to me. First job is to clear out
the workshop.
I am at the staring at it stage. First thing I noticed was that there are more
tubes on the left hand side of the cage than the right. There is an extra diagonal
tube (0.445 in. dia coated)running from the tube behind the left hand door
at shoulder height to the left hand axle tube and an extra tube (0.385in dia
coated) running under the left hand tank support at a slight angle to it joining
to the axle tube.
Question :- is this standard and if so why the extra tubes on one side only?
Derek Lawrence
Stourbridge England
Kolb Mk 111 Xtra
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Mk111 Xtra cage tubes |
Derek:
When I visited the new kolb aircraft a few years ago to see the facility and an
assembled extra I saw my actual cage before it was crated for shipping and noticed
the same thing. The extra tubes on the left side is all that is needed
for diagonal bracing and a brace could be used on the right side, however, it
just as strong without the right side tubes and the extra tubes would just be
extra weight. Have fun building.
Uncle Craig,
Mark III Xtra, 912 ULS, Warp prop,
AZ
PS- The WWW.milows.com should be up soon, as we are updating the site right now.
----- Original Message -----
From: Derek Lawrence
Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb Mk111 Xtra cage tubes
Kit arrived for Christmas. Happy xmas from me to me. First job is to clear out
the workshop.
I am at the staring at it stage. First thing I noticed was that there are more
tubes on the left hand side of the cage than the right. There is an extra diagonal
tube (0.445 in. dia coated)running from the tube behind the left hand door
at shoulder height to the left hand axle tube and an extra tube (0.385in dia
coated) running under the left hand tank support at a slight angle to it joining
to the axle tube.
Question :- is this standard and if so why the extra tubes on one side only?
Derek Lawrence
Stourbridge England
Kolb Mk 111 Xtra
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 2 Strokes don't have to be Dirty. |
| From: | "Lawrence M. Rice" <tailwind5(at)juno.com> |
Folks,
Check this out:
http://www.orbeng.com/orbital/home/home.htm
http://www.orbeng.com/orbital/customersProducts/custApps.htm
http://www.orbeng.com/orbital/customersProducts/marine/bombardier.htm
http://www.orbeng.com/orbital/orbitalTechnology/combustProcess.htm
Makes 2 strokes 70% cleaner & cuts fuel use 30%, while maintaining great
power:weight ratios. It should also eliminate seizures due to mixture
being off.
Larry the MicroMong guy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ John Cooley ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: John Cooley
Subject: Propeller tip
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/johnc@datasync.com.01.03.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
| Subject: | Intake silencers |
Thanks to all that responded to my question about intake silencers. I
appreciate all of the input. Now I have to make up my mind as to
whether I'm going to purchase the Rotax model or mess around with making
my own. I like to mess as you can tell from my experiment with the prop
tips.
This list is a real gold mine of information!
Terry - FireFly #95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
I was searching for some more info on p-tips, q-tips and other noise
reduction and ran across this. I'm really considering modifying the tips of
my 70" IVO in hopes of quieting the thing a little, but I'm not quite ready
to put them to the bandsaw. This article speaks to intake noise,
particularly on two-strokes, but nothing specific.
http://www.pfa.org.uk/pdf_docs/engineering/articles/silencing_articles/light_aircraft_noise_reduction.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Winter Flying |
Great Stuff ! ! !.................but it looks sooooo coooooold.
Brrrrrrr........... Years ago, in Idaho, friends and I would light a
big bonfire, have a big party, and trade off snow-cat rides at all hours of
the night.........in 20 below weather. Makes the ol' arthritis ache just
thinking about it now. Chicken Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Winter Flying
>
> Since we don't get a lot of snow in my part of Texas, I enjoyed these
photos
> sent to me my Bill Vincent. It looks like flying on skies in Michigan is a
> lot of fun for Scott and Bill.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russ Kinne <kinnepix(at)earthlink.net> |
tests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_96_XX
I also emailed the Haul-A-Hanger folk, no answer. Too bad, looks like a good
idea. But wouldn't be hard to build one
Russ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
Anyone try to call them?
It is an interesting concept - would probably be a little heavy and might
require a good vehicle to put it though.
jerb
>
>I also emailed the Haul-A-Hanger folk, no answer. Too bad, looks like a good
>idea. But wouldn't be hard to build one
>Russ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: www.milows.com |
Happy new year gang:
didn't make the 17 as you know. but have made great progress. all I have left is
the painting of the gap sill and a little plumbing on the fuel system and one
day of wiring and it'll be ready. I have some carbon interment pods if any one
is interested in a little larger pod. Tim and I are working with the web sight
and have some extra pictures up showing fire wall ,permanent gap sill, spinner,
oil lines and stuff,
From you guys that are flying in snow are making me envious.....in fact any one
who is flying is killing me!!!!!!!!!!!
uncle craig
MKIIIex 912uls warp
Arizona
WWW.milows.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: www.milows.com |
Craig,
You by change didn't take some pictures detailed steps you went through
forming the shape on thru final lay ups and finishing. I would love to see
them. Looks really nice. Engine temps will quickly tell if you got
airflow through it right.
jerb
>
>
>Happy new year gang:
>didn't make the 17 as you know. but have made great progress. all I have
>left is the painting of the gap sill and a little plumbing on the fuel
>system and one day of wiring and it'll be ready. I have some carbon
>interment pods if any one is interested in a little larger pod. Tim and I
>are working with the web sight and have some extra pictures up showing
>fire wall ,permanent gap sill, spinner, oil lines and stuff,
> From you guys that are flying in snow are making me envious.....in fact
> any one who is flying is killing me!!!!!!!!!!!
>uncle craig
>MKIIIex 912uls warp
>Arizona
>WWW.milows.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | things I should have done. |
OK Gang....here is another idea...(I know..this might be dangerous!)
everyone who has built a kolb, and flown it for awhile, generally makes some
mods..sometimes before..and sometimes after flying awhile. Well the before
would have been alot easier huh!..
Everyone who hs the inclination, add to this post with a few of your "wish I
would have done" ideas..this might be of real value to the bunch of fellas
who are just begining right now...I'll start with about my biggest "wish i
woulda"...
I wish I would of welded a couple of tabs on the inner steel root rib to
better attach the between the wings gap cover. This gap cover is a pain in
the butt.
Velcro just aint enough ..how weather softens the glue.it wont lay
flush..the soft cover as plans suggest is pretty much a waste of time...and
a lexan..alum or thin metal cover is hard to attach if you didnt make
arrangements prior to covering the wings. A couple of tabs on the top or the
steel rib..about 1/3rd chord up from trailing edge...on top and bottom sure
would have been nice to stick a couple of bolts thru to hold my alum gap
cover..
Also a couple more tabs in the cockpit area to mount stuff along the
sides..within reach while strapped in would have been handy also. I did put
a couple in before I painted the cage...but wished I hade a couple more.
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: www.milows.com |
----- Original Message -----
From: jerb
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: www.milows.com
Craig,
You by change didn't take some pictures detailed steps you went through
forming the shape on thru final lay ups and finishing. I would love to see
them. Looks really nice.
Jerb
I have some pics. unfortunatly I lost most of them when I installed XP. I plan
on posting some in the near future
Thanks!
>uncle craig>MKIIIex 912uls warp
>Arizona
>WWW.milows.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russ Kinne <kinnepix(at)earthlink.net> |
tests=DATE_IN_FUTURE_96_XX
Has anyone ever deployed the emergency parachute? Deliberately OR
accidentally?
What happens? Any prop involvement?
Russ Kinne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net> |
Kolbers,
I need the expertise and knowledge of any of you who has had experience with Cuyuna
engines.
About two years ago I traded a table saw for a Kolb UltraStar complete with a custom
trailer, a Cuyuna II-02 which runs fine and a second engine. One engine
was complete (the II-02) but the second had a cylinder, piston and head missing.
I put it on a shelf in my shop and forgot about it , until today. I got
it out and read the data plate. It is a Cuyuna, UL RR 430, sn18388. Can any
of you tell me anything about this engine? Is it rebuildable? Can I get parts
for it. What is the power output? Where do I get parts? Do you know of a
rebuild manual for it I can obtain?
Thanks for your help,
Dale Sellers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Vincent <emailbill(at)chartermi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying on Skis |
Hi Thom and Gang
What I mean by skis being easier than wheels is when landing in average snow conditions
the snow seems to "suck" you down and there is no bounce back up in the
air like we all sometime experience when landing on
wheels.
In heavy wet snow conditions one has to be careful on take off so you don't nose
over. Also sometimes I have to bounce my skis on the runway to knock off the
heavy wet snow from them.
On my T-Bird I needed a tail ski, but with the Kolb there is no need for it. In
fact the tail wheel drags through the snow and helps slow down the plane when
landing.
I recommend a runner on the bottom of the ski so the plane does not slide sideways
when turning in the snow.
I also believe that wooden skis are better than aluminum skis because wooden skis
do not freeze into the ice as fast as the aluminum skis.
Bill Vincent
Firestar II
Upper Peninsula of Michigan
Thom Riddle wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> I moved to the great white north a couple of years ago from the deep south (I
know, its backwards from the mass migration) and am interested in flying on skis....maybe.
You said flying on skis is easier. How so?
>
> Thom in Buffalo
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying on Skis |
test...Gary!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Vincent" <emailbill(at)chartermi.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Flying on Skis
>
> Hi Thom and Gang
>
> What I mean by skis being easier than wheels is when landing in average
snow conditions the snow seems to "suck" you down and there is no bounce
back up in the air like we all sometime experience when landing on
> wheels.
>
> In heavy wet snow conditions one has to be careful on take off so you
don't nose over. Also sometimes I have to bounce my skis on the runway to
knock off the heavy wet snow from them.
>
> On my T-Bird I needed a tail ski, but with the Kolb there is no need for
it. In fact the tail wheel drags through the snow and helps slow down the
plane when landing.
>
> I recommend a runner on the bottom of the ski so the plane does not slide
sideways when turning in the snow.
>
> I also believe that wooden skis are better than aluminum skis because
wooden skis do not freeze into the ice as fast as the aluminum skis.
>
> Bill Vincent
> Firestar II
> Upper Peninsula of Michigan
>
> Thom Riddle wrote:
>
> >
> > Bill,
> >
> > I moved to the great white north a couple of years ago from the deep
south (I know, its backwards from the mass migration) and am interested in
flying on skis....maybe. You said flying on skis is easier. How so?
> >
> > Thom in Buffalo
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aaron Hollingsworth <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
| Subject: | Matco Brakes - Breeding Help |
Hello all,
I have noticed that my left and right brake were not very consistent in
their braking power. Neither brakes all that well to begin with but I
can lock up the left side but not right (if I shove my heel into it as
hard as absolute possible.... almost hard enough to shove my foot
through the nose cone and stop flintstone style). I decided that
bleeding them would be the thing to do... I pulled the flooring up and
tried to bleed them before reading the list or any info on matco brakes.
First problem, I realized that bleeding them top down just isn't going
to work well (just read to do it bottom up... makes lots more sense).
Next thing... I used dot3 automotive before I read that it isn't good
for the brakes :( Now my plane is sitting out at the hanger with a 1/2
done brake job with dot3 fluid in the lines. How bad is the dot3 on the
O-rings? I am not sure what type of fluid was used before, but it sure
looked like clear dot3 to me. I'll call the previous owner tomorrow. Can
I just bleed them and then use red tranny fluid from now on?
Now... I am not sure what kind of tool I need to pump fluid into the
little nipple fitting on the brake end. I do have an oil can.. but it
doesn't fit over the little nipple.
Thanks for any info,
Aaron
Mk3/618
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aaron Hollingsworth <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
I am making a rudder tab for my MK3 out of an old lexan windshield as
suggested here. Now that I have it cut to the right size and shape I
want to bend it to about 20-25deg. This stuff is STIFF... what do others
use to bend this stuff? Stack of books isnt doing it for me :)
Aaron
Mk3/618
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bending Lexan |
it takes a sheet metal brake
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: bending Lexan
>
> I am making a rudder tab for my MK3 out of an old lexan windshield as
> suggested here. Now that I have it cut to the right size and shape I
> want to bend it to about 20-25deg. This stuff is STIFF... what do others
> use to bend this stuff? Stack of books isnt doing it for me :)
>
> Aaron
> Mk3/618
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco Brakes - Breeding Help |
I use a little oil pump can with a piece of small diameter rubber tubing
that will fit over the end of the pump can nozzle and also the little
nipple. Put a rag inside to catch the overflow when it gets full, or you
will have a mess.
>
>Hello all,
>Now... I am not sure what kind of tool I need to pump fluid into the
>little nipple fitting on the brake end. I do have an oil can.. but it
>doesn't fit over the little nipple.
>
>Thanks for any info,
>
>Aaron
>Mk3/618
>
>
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/kolb.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: bending Lexan |
If you have one of those work benches that you can open and crank shut,
Black & Decker makes them, plus some others, clamp the Lexan in there and
then apply pressure with a board.
Or you can make a mold, lay the Lexan over it, and stick it in the oven.
Leave the light on and watch it, you can set it on fire.
(Guess how I know this?)
>
>I am making a rudder tab for my MK3 out of an old lexan windshield as
>suggested here. Now that I have it cut to the right size and shape I
>want to bend it to about 20-25deg. This stuff is STIFF... what do others
>use to bend this stuff? Stack of books isnt doing it for me :)
>
>Aaron
>Mk3/618
>
>
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/kolb.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cuyuna engine. |
Dale..I think ZDE has a cd with all the manuals..parts lists and stuff for
your Cuyuna engine...I bought one from him some time ago..I think it was
only 20 bucks then. It was all in PDF I think...and it was easy to just
print the pages I wanted, as there are several engines on it.
Btw..if you have a fax machine...send me the number off list and ill send
you a hp/torque curve sheet on it.
Don Gherardini
FireFly 098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing on frozen lakes 'n stuff |
Is he OK, and did he save his plane ?? Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Landing on frozen lakes 'n stuff
>
> Last year, here in the lower part of Michigan, one of the other Kolb
drivers
> landed on a frozen lake and found to his chagrin that he'd chosen to land
> over the mouth of a running stream. Crack! Splash!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco Brakes - Breeding Help |
As someone else said, the oilcan will work, but if you have a pressure
source (I use regulated nitrogen, 'cause I have it for my work) you can use
a couple of psi to gently push the fluid into the lines from the brake end.
Too much pressure and you and your plane'll get a bath. :-) You'll need a
turkey baster or somesuch with a length of tubing on the end to suck the
excess fluid out of the reservoir from time to time. My reservoir cracked
soon after installation, and so did the replacement, (even tho' I was very
gentle with tightening the fitting) so a friend machined me one out of
aluminum. I put a T in the line below it, and a clear tube from the T to
above the reservoir, so's to be able to see the level.
BUT............since you're not sure what all is in there, I'd recommend
talking to the manufacturer in Salt Lake City - they're good people to deal
with - and see what they say about deterioration of those vital o-rings. I
haven't hit the brake fluid problem, but I HAve seen someone hit o-rings
with alcohol, and the damage is very quick..............they turn to putty.
I t'ink I'd think real serious about a quick rebuild............o-rings are
cheap. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Matco Brakes - Breeding Help
>
> Hello all,
>
> I have noticed that my left and right brake were not very consistent in
> their braking power. Neither brakes all that well to begin with but I
> can lock up the left side but not right (if I shove my heel into it as
> hard as absolute possible.... almost hard enough to shove my foot
> through the nose cone and stop flintstone style). I decided that
> bleeding them would be the thing to do... I pulled the flooring up
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aaron Hollingsworth <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Matco Brakes - Breeding Help |
Larry Bourne wrote:
>
>As someone else said, the oilcan will work, but if you have a pressure
>source (I use regulated nitrogen, 'cause I have it for my work) you can use
>a couple of psi to gently push the fluid into the lines from the brake end.
>Too much pressure and you and your plane'll get a bath. :-) You'll need a
>turkey baster or somesuch with a length of tubing on the end to suck the
>excess fluid out of the reservoir from time to time. My reservoir cracked
>soon after installation, and so did the replacement, (even tho' I was very
>gentle with tightening the fitting) so a friend machined me one out of
>aluminum. I put a T in the line below it, and a clear tube from the T to
>above the reservoir, so's to be able to see the level.
>BUT............since you're not sure what all is in there, I'd recommend
>talking to the manufacturer in Salt Lake City - they're good people to deal
>with - and see what they say about deterioration of those vital o-rings. I
>haven't hit the brake fluid problem, but I HAve seen someone hit o-rings
>with alcohol, and the damage is very quick..............they turn to putty.
>I t'ink I'd think real serious about a quick rebuild............o-rings are
>cheap. Lar.
>
>Larry Bourne
>Palm Springs, CA
>Building Kolb Mk III
>N78LB
>www.gogittum.com
>
>
Thanks for the response. I'll give them a ring and ask about those
rings. interesting hidesight... I thought I had grey fluid and air about
5 inches up the line because the line looked clear. I drained it out to
find that it was all clear fluid. Hearing about dot3 and those ringes...
I wonder if the grey at the fluid close to the brake and about 3-5
inches up the line was the dot3 fluid eating at the rings.... it would
make sense.
Regards,
Aaron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jo and Larry" <joandlp(at)starband.net> |
Greetings,
We are really close to the first flight of our FS II. After installing the
full enclosure and removing the paper from the Lexan we found it needs a
good cleaning. What is the best method to clean and maintain the Lexan?
Thanks in advance,
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Lexan? |
Very carefully. That stuff scratches on a whim. Don't try and vacuum dust
off with a vacuum and a soft brush, it will cover it with tiny scratches.
(Guess how I know this?)
If it is dusty, I try and spray off as much dust as possible with water,
and then wipe it with a soft squeegee to get it clean. Then a soft cloth
and spray glass cleaner as necessary.
Don't use paper towels, save old t-shirts or white cotton socks or towels
and only use them once, then into the washer. When you use a t-shirt and
plastic polish, don't go in circles, it makes the sun glare show up much
worse. Polish in a straight line from side to side or top to bottom if
possible, at least that way the glare is only worse at one direction.
Since I am in an open hangar, I have to replace it every five years or so
anyway, even being really careful. If you are in a closed hangar, you will
do better.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Greetings,
>We are really close to the first flight of our FS II. After installing the
>full enclosure and removing the paper from the Lexan we found it needs a
>good cleaning. What is the best method to clean and maintain the Lexan?
>Thanks in advance,
>Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Lexan? |
> Since I am in an open hangar, I have to replace it every five years or so
> anyway, even being really careful. If you are in a closed hangar, you will
> do better.
>
> Richard Pike
Richard/All:
I am also in a hangar that is open in the front. Several years ago started
using a $2.50 plastic table cloth from Wal*Mart to cover the windshield and
doors. The table cloth has a soft polyesther backing to prevent scratching
the Lexan. Does a good job of keeping dust, dirt, bird crap, carpenter bees
dung, etc., off the windshield. I keep it secured with four small bungee
cords with hooks, also available at Wal*Mart.
The cheap table cloths will last a couple years before UV does a job on
them. Much cheaper and easier than replacing windshield and door glass.
Gonna buy me some of that Wal*Mart stock one of these days and get rich.
hehehe
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "johnjung(at)compusenior.com" <johnjung(at)compusenior.com> |
| Subject: | Re: bending Lexan |
Aaron and group,
I used a vise to bend the Lexan for my rudder trim tab. The vise was
not wide enough, so I placed the lexan between two longer pieces of
metal, aligned them, clamped them in the vise and then used my hands to
do the bending. The tab was made larger then needed so that I could trim
it with a scissors to the right size after flying.
It worked out very well. I like the way it looks better than painted
aluminum trim tabs.
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: bending Lexan |
Whatever clamp method you use, I'd recommend bending lexan (generically
called polycarbonate) cold. Try it on a scrap obviously, but yes,
lexan bends bettter cold, and I believe plexiglass bends best when
softened with heat along the bend line. I've made lexan bends holding
it between two solid pieces of wood in a vise.
-Ben
--- Aaron Hollingsworth wrote:
>
>
> I am making a rudder tab for my MK3 out of an old lexan windshield as
>
> suggested here. Now that I have it cut to the right size and shape I
> want to bend it to about 20-25deg. This stuff is STIFF... what do
> others
> use to bend this stuff? Stack of books isnt doing it for me :)
>
> Aaron
> Mk3/618
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
http://mae.ucdavis.edu/~ransom
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George" <gtb(at)georgesmail.com> |
, "H PAUL BURNS"
| Subject: | VERY IMPORTANT INFO |
The info below was received via another list that
I belong to. I felt it was of the utmost importance
that I should forward the text to you (and get it out
to all the club members, & list members) ASAP.
George
=============================
USUA has secured an agreement with First Flight Insurance,
underwritten by Lloyds of London, to provide liability insurance for
ultralights & fat-ultralights, at an estimated annual cost of $376.
You'll have to join USUA ($25) and register your craft with USUA
($25) in order to buy the coverage.
By trade I am a claims adjuster for the nations 7th largest insurance
company. People...you do not know the seriousness of the litigation
problems this country faces! Rest assured you WILL BE sued should
you have any type of incident causing injury or damages. I know, I
know...everyone thinkgs it will not happen to them. Just one
incident could cost you everything you own! I suggest you join USUA
and buy the coverage for $375 +/-.
http://www.usua.org
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Protecting Lexan s/Table Cloth |
> I'll try that.
> (I always wondered how you kept your windshield looking that good...)
>
> Richard Pike
Richard/All:
If you have a wife like John Williamson, you can sweet talk her into sewing
up a nice windshield cover for you out of, I believe, plastic table cloths.
I use "gaffers" tape to reinforce the points the wire hooks of the tiny
bungee cord attach.
I have one attached to the lower end of each lift strut, and two under the
belly. Held it it place real well until we had the thunderstorm at Monument
Valley last year. I had Miss P'fer's tail in the wind and the wind and dust
blew under the cover. Other than that, it has worked well.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Lexan? |
You can spend a lot of money on specialized polycarbonate cleaner or you can use
Lemon Pledge, which works very well. We use it on our Cherokee too. Like someone
else said, if it is dusty, hose it off with fresh water first and use soft
cotton.
Thom in Buffalo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Protecting Lexan s/Table Cloth |
Yah, and the 2 Cessna Caravans blowing dirt all over Miss P'fer didn't help
a whole lot, either. The lady co-pilot of the 2nd one turned out to be
nice people, tho'. Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Protecting Lexan s/Table Cloth
>
> > I'll try that.
> > (I always wondered how you kept your windshield looking that good...)
> >
> > Richard Pike
>
> Richard/All:
>
> If you have a wife like John Williamson, you can sweet talk her into
sewing
> up a nice windshield cover for you out of, I believe, plastic table
cloths.
>
> I use "gaffers" tape to reinforce the points the wire hooks of the tiny
> bungee cord attach.
>
> I have one attached to the lower end of each lift strut, and two under the
> belly. Held it it place real well until we had the thunderstorm at
Monument
> Valley last year. I had Miss P'fer's tail in the wind and the wind and
dust
> blew under the cover. Other than that, it has worked well.
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Rains <rr(at)htg.net> |
| Subject: | Protecting Lexan s/Table Cloth |
Naw, she rejected my marriage proposal. How could anybody so dumb fly a Caravan?
Musta been the company I keep.
Dave Rains
N8086T
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bourne [SMTP:biglar(at)gogittum.com]
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Protecting Lexan s/Table Cloth
Yah, and the 2 Cessna Caravans blowing dirt all over Miss P'fer didn't help
a whole lot, either. The lady co-pilot of the 2nd one turned out to be
nice people, tho'. Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Protecting Lexan s/Table Cloth
>
> > I'll try that.
> > (I always wondered how you kept your windshield looking that good...)
> >
> > Richard Pike
>
> Richard/All:
>
> If you have a wife like John Williamson, you can sweet talk her into
sewing
> up a nice windshield cover for you out of, I believe, plastic table
cloths.
>
> I use "gaffers" tape to reinforce the points the wire hooks of the tiny
> bungee cord attach.
>
> I have one attached to the lower end of each lift strut, and two under the
> belly. Held it it place real well until we had the thunderstorm at
Monument
> Valley last year. I had Miss P'fer's tail in the wind and the wind and
dust
> blew under the cover. Other than that, it has worked well.
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jimmy @ Jo Ann Hill" <hillstw(at)jhill.biz> |
| Subject: | Re: short and long windshields |
Ted:
It looks like I will not be getting to Mobile this month as I had thought.
So, will not have a chance to come by and see your Firestar. Am still
interested though. Actually it might work better if you go ahead and do the
rebuild you spoke of, then see where we stand. I don''t know what price you
will be thinking of, and perhaps you don't know yet either, but would
suggest you proceed whenever you so decide.
Lets keep in touch.
Sorry to miss the Southern hospitality; I am a son of the South also. Bet
you even know where there is some good fried catfish.
Best regards.
Jimmy Hill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Cowan" <tcowan1917(at)direcway.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: short and long windshields
>
> I guess I have different results with my original firestar with the
> windshields. I have found over the years, seven or so, that the short
> windshield goes faster, less stick pressure and gets better gas
consumption
> than the full enclosure does. I like the full enclosure for the colder
> months in the South here but the short is much more fun to fly with. I
have
> revised the short one to extend further back but more upward I guess. It
> covers my face from the wind better and is easier to enter and exit the
> vehicle. There are apparently, many different flight characteristics
> between the original (the best design) firestar and the firefly but
> officicially, the firestar is very difficult to get to FAR 103. I love my
> little firestar but have recently upgraded to the slingshot. I wanted the
> extra. I am getting ready to completely redue the firestar from ground
up.
> If anyone wants it for $8000 right now, speak quick or it will be a 'new'
> plane in about three months.
> By the way, I have heard from those who are building and buying the big
> Rans 7 and such that they believe ultralights as the firestar will be a
> thing of the past when the new regs come out. I dont believe it. There
are
> many, many guys out there who want the little, easy to fold and store and
> transport, single seaters to play with. The ones that have no intention
or
> desire to risk their lives to travel accross the continent. I believe the
> market is not going to change that much. I dont think newbees are going
to
> have the thirty or forty thousand dollars to buy heavier, faster, almost
ga
> planes any more than they do today. So, all you out there with the
> original, and IIs and such, buck up, your still going to be a force to
recon
> with. Besides, I can still go up for less than three gals an hour and
have
> more fun in twenty minutes than the big ones ever dreamed of. my opinion.
> Ted Cowan, Alabama
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Harrison" <firestarii(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Visit to Kolb factory |
Greetings listers:
I thought I would start out the new year with a report on my visit to the
TNK factory. I am rebuilding a Firestar II and needed some of the longer
lengths of tubing that normally have to be truck shipped. Since I was
spending New Year's in Knoxville, I decided to just drive up to London and
pick up the items myself.
I found the staff to be very friendly and accomodating. They took time from
what they were working on to explain what they were doing. I took the grand
tour from R&D with Brian, the welding area, and finally Parts with Donnie. I
can tell you that I was impressed with the entire shop area. It was a
homebuilders dream. All the aluminum, chromoly, and parts you could ever
want.
I must confess I had a bit of buyer's panic as I saw everything I needed to
finish my plane right there on the shelves, ready to grab and throw in the
truck. I managed to restrain myself to getting the tubing I needed, some
rivets, a throttle cable--but I did splurge and get the streamline strut
covers. Those struts just look more "aircraft" to me than the round ones
I've always had.
Some impressions:
They are all good knowledgeable airplane people. Unlike some of the more
extreme rumors that have circulated, the welding guys are not long-haired,
weed-smoking types.
I was very impressed by the jigs for each fuselage type, the production area
for wing ribs, and the beautiful powder-coating on many of the planes being
built.
The efficient use of space in the facility is amazing. You would not believe
that 5-6 models of UL kits are being built in a building that size.
Well, this will be my last post for a while as I now have plenty of aluminum
to play with out in the shop. My first weekend home I got the H-section
installed in the boom tube and the plane on the gear. Should be a great
2004!
Tired of slow downloads? Compare online deals from your local high-speed
providers now. https://broadband.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
Terry and Kolbers,
It has gotten cold so I have moved inside to work. I got out an old IVO,
took some measurements, and searched the web for RC propeller tip
modifications. Then I got into the CAD and drew up some templates that
could be used to modify the IVO as you have your propeller.
The actual modifications will have to wait because I am in the middle of
swinging the belt reduction unit to the left and down to investigate the
effect of lowering the thrust line. I will be using the IVO on this next
test as the Powerfin diameter is too large to clear the tail tube. On the
this test the thrust line will be 2.2 inches below that of the Rotax 447.
Then I have one more position (six inches below) to check and I will have
to cut the IVO to 56 inches to clear the tube. After that test, I will
modify the tips to see what happens.
All of this can start when the weather gets a little warmer, and I get new
brake bands installed. The old ones lasted for about 100 flights before the
band cracked and broke into. The new ones have a little thicker band material
and should hold up a little better.
If you would like to see what the propeller tip is going to look like, it can
be seen on:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly100.html
Anything that one can legitimately do to improve FireFly performance is
exciting.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
>
> Terry and Kolbers,
>
> It has gotten cold so I have moved inside to work. I got out an old IVO,
> took some measurements, and searched the web for RC propeller tip
> modifications. Then I got into the CAD and drew up some templates that
> could be used to modify the IVO as you have your propeller.
>
> The actual modifications will have to wait because I am in the middle of
> swinging the belt reduction unit to the left and down to investigate the
> effect of lowering the thrust line. I will be using the IVO on this next
> test as the Powerfin diameter is too large to clear the tail tube. On the
> this test the thrust line will be 2.2 inches below that of the Rotax 447.
> Then I have one more position (six inches below) to check and I will have
> to cut the IVO to 56 inches to clear the tube. After that test, I will
> modify the tips to see what happens.
>
> All of this can start when the weather gets a little warmer, and I get new
> brake bands installed. The old ones lasted for about 100 flights before
the
> band cracked and broke into. The new ones have a little thicker band
material
> and should hold up a little better.
>
> If you would like to see what the propeller tip is going to look like, it
can
> be seen on:
>
> http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly100.html
>
> Anything that one can legitimately do to improve FireFly performance is
> exciting.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
> Jack,
I think I would try the prop tip mod with the longer blades and higher
thrust line before you go chopping them down to 56 inches. I would bet the
farm that the longer blades will out perform the shorter ones and you will
also get a little practice cuting the tip angles, if it goes bad you can
than shorten the blades and try again.
I don't think I have ever heard of anyone who has improved performance on
aircraft of this type by going to a smaller prop, seems like everyone who
goes to deeper reduction ratios with more diameter and or pitch, get much
better performance.
At the very least by trying the tip change before you shorten your blades,
you will be comparing aples to apples when you do shorten them and cut the
tips.
Just a thought.
Dennis Rowe,
Mk-3, 2SI 690L-70, 68"Powerfin F model at 2.65 to 1 and hoping to someday
try a 3.47 to 1 Rotax C gearbox. Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
Jack,
Thanks for posting the diagram of the prop tip modifications for the
guys on the list.
Looking at your web page I noticed you said you were going to move the
profile out a quarter of an inch to allow a small flat on the tip. I
curious as to your reason for that? Part of my understanding of why
you get the performance gain is because of shaping the tip into the same
airfoil as the prop thereby eliminating and drag or vortex producing
surfaces. I could be wrong, just sharing thoughts with you. I relied
on Top Flight engineering and copied what they had apparently already
tested. Boy am I glad it worked!!!!!
Please share with me and the others on the list how you make out with
your composite prop alteration. I've had several others ask if this
would work on them. Good luck on the re-balancing! It took me a week
until I was satisfied, of course I had to refinish the tips which
effects the balancing.
Terry - FireFly #95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
Terry, Jack, others
I called Powerfin this morning to get their opinion on the Top Flight style prop
tips.
The fellow I talked to said that in a lot some cases the angled tips do work better
than the standard tips and that they are currently working on prototyping
a new blade design with the angled tips. They hope to have production blades
ready in about six months.
He said to check the websight every now and than as the new blade will be listed
there as soon as its finished.
Warp Drives tapered tip design must use the same idea to acheive its improved performance.
Also, Jack, after rereading your post that I replied to, I realized that you are
probably already planning on doing what I suggested, seems that I often miss
a lot when I am reading posts, sorry if thats the case.
Later,
Dennis Rowe, Mk-3, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cleaning Lexan |
I use a plastic polish I get from the local NAPA store. Works good and
fills in some of the tiny scratches.
Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Ransom <bwr000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop tips, prop diameter |
Jack,
I agree with Denny on the prop diameter issue -- bigger is better. But
then, I don't know what the reason is for your wanting to lower the
thrust line. I know the plane pitches up or down with throttle change,
but I feel that blends in to a no-brainer, meaning the pilot
automatically compensates for it. I don't want to discourage trying to
find improvements, but for my money, 2.2" lower thrust line would not
be worth the smaller diameter.
I made some timed climbs a couple weeks ago, getting ready to carefully
compare the climb rate I get on my 60" Powerfin vs 66" Warp. Those
flights were with the Powerfin and I got 850-900fpm, this at 500-1500ft
MSL and about 45-50deg F, high humidity. Years ago the Warp gave me
1150fpm on 90deg F days. In both conditions, the props were pitched to
give 60mph at 5000rpm, and btw, this is a 447. So, I'll be putting the
Warp back on to see if I still get over 1100fpm, or my engine has lost
umph, or, the modifications to my wing are hurting in this regard, or I
was just dreaming when I got the 1150.
-Ben
--- Jack & Louise Hart wrote:
>
> Terry and Kolbers,
>
> It has gotten cold so I have moved inside to work. I got out an old
> IVO,
> took some measurements, and searched the web for RC propeller tip
> modifications. Then I got into the CAD and drew up some templates
> that
> could be used to modify the IVO as you have your propeller.
>
> The actual modifications will have to wait because I am in the middle
> of
> swinging the belt reduction unit to the left and down to investigate
> the
> effect of lowering the thrust line. I will be using the IVO on this
> next
> test as the Powerfin diameter is too large to clear the tail tube.
> On the
> this test the thrust line will be 2.2 inches below that of the Rotax
> 447.
> Then I have one more position (six inches below) to check and I will
> have
> to cut the IVO to 56 inches to clear the tube. After that test, I
> will
> modify the tips to see what happens.
>
> All of this can start when the weather gets a little warmer, and I
> get new
> brake bands installed. The old ones lasted for about 100 flights
> before the
> band cracked and broke into. The new ones have a little thicker band
> material
> and should hold up a little better.
>
> If you would like to see what the propeller tip is going to look
> like, it can
> be seen on:
>
> http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly100.html
>
> Anything that one can legitimately do to improve FireFly performance
> is
> exciting.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
>
>Jack,
>
>Thanks for posting the diagram of the prop tip modifications for the
>guys on the list.
>
>Looking at your web page I noticed you said you were going to move the
>profile out a quarter of an inch to allow a small flat on the tip. I
>curious as to your reason for that?
Terry,
The reason for leaving a tiny flat on the end has to do with me. I have a tendency
to walk into things, like wings etc. I thought by removing the sharp point,
I may fair better in and around the FireFly.
Denny,
The IVO I will cut is a spare and so I do not feel bad about cutting it. The FireFly
flew well with a 60 inch two blade IVO on the Rotax 447. I want to see
what happens to FireFly performance as the thrust line is lowered. One can expect
several advantages. The FireFly will become less nose over sensitive on
take off, and less attitude correction with throttle changes. Also if propeller
efficiency is improved by the new tip, one can sacrifice some of it back in
a shorter prop while maintaining the same overall performance at less overall
weight. On a FireFly, weight is always a concern.
You are correct in that I can fly the present IVO 62 inch diameter with flat tips,
and then modify the tips and fly it again for comparison at the same thrust
line setting. Then I can cut it off square again at the 56 inch diameter and
repeat the process at the lower thrust line. It will be interesting.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com> |
I have a concern for anyone cutting an IVO tip. Remember that the core
is not where the strength is but in the kevlar or carbon fiber or what
ever it is that is on the outer surface of the prop.
It seems to me there could be a problem of delamination if the core is
exposed and no longer consistently covered by the fiber cover. Wood
props like Terry has would not have this issue.
Just passing along my concern.
EZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
In May of 1991, I got a deal on a used Ivo 68" prop. I installed it and decided
that it was too long and that it could contact the fuse tube if I ever landed
hard. I cut 1" off each blade by making an angle of aluminum and clamping to
each tip. I used a hack saw to follow the aluminum angle. It was cut off flat
and I have been flying ever since then. The only problem is the stainless tape
is peeling loose at the ends in recent times. I used some super glue to tack
it down and that worked. If equal amounts of blade are cut off, the prop stays
in balance. I verified this with a prop balancer after cutting. The prop becomes
less flexible and may be the reason it does not contact the aileron tubes
on my Original Firestar without a prop extention. By the way, this is one of the
early Ivo's that doesn't have the bushings in the holes. I'm running it on
a Rotax 447.
Ralph
Original Firestar
17 years flying it
-- Eugene Zimmerman wrote:
I have a concern for anyone cutting an IVO tip. Remember that the core
is not where the strength is but in the kevlar or carbon fiber or what
ever it is that is on the outer surface of the prop.
It seems to me there could be a problem of delamination if the core is
exposed and no longer consistently covered by the fiber cover. Wood
props like Terry has would not have this issue.
Just passing along my concern.
EZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com> |
ul15rhb(at)juno.com wrote:
>
>
> In May of 1991, I got a deal on a used Ivo 68" prop. I installed it and decided
that it was too long and that it could contact the fuse tube if I ever landed
hard. I cut 1" off each blade by making an angle of aluminum and clamping to
each tip. I used a hack saw to follow the aluminum angle. It was cut off flat
and I have been flying ever since then. The only problem is the stainless tape
is peeling loose at the ends in recent times. I used some super glue to tack
it down and that worked. If equal amounts of blade are cut off, the prop stays
in balance. I verified this with a prop balancer after cutting. The prop becomes
less flexible and may be the reason it does not contact the aileron tubes
on my Original Firestar without a prop extention. By the way, this is one of
the early Ivo's that doesn't have the bushings in the holes. I'm running it on
a Rotax 447.
>
> Ralph
> Original Firestar
> 17 years flying it
>
> -- Eugene Zimmerman wrote:
>
> I have a concern for anyone cutting an IVO tip. Remember that the core
> is not where the strength is but in the kevlar or carbon fiber or what
> ever it is that is on the outer surface of the prop.
> It seems to me there could be a problem of delamination if the core is
> exposed and no longer consistently covered by the fiber cover. Wood
> props like Terry has would not have this issue.
>
> Just passing along my concern.
>
> EZ
>
I agree cut off straight is not a problem, I have done it too. I also
modified a prop tip to conform to a different shape but was afraid to
use it after I saw the potential of losing part of the core not
supported with the outer fiber. There is a lot of centrifugal force
trying to pull that core medium apart and if one lets loose ,,,,,,,,,, I
don't even want to think about it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr ASC/TM <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Brake Fluid for Matcos |
Aaron, and other Kolbers with Matco brakes -
When I called the Matco factory in Salt Lake city for advice on my Matco
brakes, they recommended automotive automatic transmission fluid (red) for
use in their brakes, just as John H. mentioned yesterday.
Besides the fact that it works fine, here's another thing I discovered about
red transmission fluid in your brake system: UV rays bleach out the red
coloring. Parked in the New Mexico sun, my brake lines were exposed to the
sun for a few months before I moved into a hangar. In that time, the fluid
in the visible part of the brake lines (along gear leg) turned clear. I
thought I had lost all my brake fluid from a leak. Fluid is still red in
the non-exposed sections of my brake lines, and my brakes still work fine,
so it does not seem to affect the physical properties of the fliud.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, Verner-1400 in
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aaron Hollingsworth <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
| Subject: | Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar |
I finished bleeding my brakes, I used my air compressor to blow 20-40
psi from the reservoir through the lines to get all the dot3 out of
there. Then the oil can and plastic tubing did the trick. I noticed a
great difference in the braking power. Seems to be a good 20-30%
increase in braking power... I do think that there is room for further
gain, I got dot3 and the new red tranny fluid all over the discs. I did
my best to clean it with cleaners I had access to (Windex and simple
green).... there is still a bit of an oilly film on the disc. What
cleaner would work best for this?
I also got my rudder tab finished and installed. Damn that lexan! I tell
you.. if I did it over again I would for sure use some AL. First go I
used two 2x4s and a vice to bend it... using all my 210lbs of weight and
a brief case to keep the bend flat, it took bending it over and over and
over to get the bend in there. Just when I was about happy with the bend
angle... SNAP! $#@%@.... started all over. This time I didn't buffer the
bend with 2x4s and just used a cloth and the vice to clamp down. The
edge of the bend was sharper and easier to do with the vice and cloth.
It made the bend more precise. Drilled the tail and slapped it on... I
started with about 30deg of bend... I'll do some test hops with it tomorrow.
A side note... I learned the other day to be extra careful locking up
the brakes on one side and using power to turn around a single wheel. I
have done this many times both solo and with passenger... but a week ago
I knocked off my skid bar :( added a little much power and the pivoting
wheel got stuck on a grass clump, down the nose went... too bad the tire
did make it over the clump because it continued the turn enough to hit
the bar sideways... popped right off :/ luckily it didn't do any damage
to the nosecone, and cleanly popped off. I drilled new holes and it went
back on solid as ever.
Regards,
Aaron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Harrison" <firestarii(at)hotmail.com> |
I've seen the inside of some Ivoprops up close and shattered, and I'd have
to agree with Eugene. They are just pink foam inside. You would need to do
something to protect that exposed foam.
>From: Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop tips
>Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2004 12:35:34 -0500
>
>
>
>I have a concern for anyone cutting an IVO tip. Remember that the core
>is not where the strength is but in the kevlar or carbon fiber or what
>ever it is that is on the outer surface of the prop.
>It seems to me there could be a problem of delamination if the core is
>exposed and no longer consistently covered by the fiber cover. Wood
>props like Terry has would not have this issue.
>
>Just passing along my concern.
>
>EZ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James and Cathy Tripp" <jtripp(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Contact Paper Residue |
I used someone's suggestion to use contact paper for the stars on my paint job.
I think it was Uncle Craig. That combined with Don G's suggestion to spray the
mask with the base color before shooting the final color worked out great. I
had very little bleeding under. My new problem occured after removing the masking.
The contact paper left a sticky residue. Any ideas on how to get it off
without affecting the paint???
James Tripp
FS II, Masking and painting
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
I just wrote to IVO about reshaping the tips and they recommended against
it.
Their reply:
>Dear Duncan,
>We do not want you to alter the prop. Ivo has found our tip to be as quiet
>or quieter,
>as efficient or more efficient than all the other tips. He has tried them
>all on the Ivoprop.
>Inside there is fiberglass rope that starts at the tip and goes around the
>bolt hole and back to the tip,
>same on leading and trailing edge. If you alter you will jeopardize the
>structural integrity.
>Regards, Ron
Ron sent a follow-up that said one reason the IVOPROPS were quieter was due
to their flexibility. If the fiberglas rope doesn't extend all the way to
both the leading and trailing edges, the problem might be delamination where
the tip is exposed to the airflow. Y'all be careful. It might be
worthwhile to call IVO and have a discussion - I've always found them to be
real helpful.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eugene Zimmerman" <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop tips
>
> I have a concern for anyone cutting an IVO tip. Remember that the core
> is not where the strength is but in the kevlar or carbon fiber or what
> ever it is that is on the outer surface of the prop.
> It seems to me there could be a problem of delamination if the core is
> exposed and no longer consistently covered by the fiber cover. Wood
> props like Terry has would not have this issue.
>
> Just passing along my concern.
>
> EZ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ronnie wehba" <rwehba(at)wtxs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar |
try plain ol dishwashing liquid!
I did
> my best to clean it with cleaners I had access to (Windex and simple
> green).... there is still a bit of an oilly film on the disc. What
> cleaner would work best for this?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Visit to Kolb factory |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
I would like to add a comment or two about The New Kolb Aircraft Company.
I have an Original Firestar from the old Kolb Company that needed some
new parts. I talked to Travis and he told me that he would do anything
within his power to help me out. Not only did he help me out, but made me
feel very much like he was interested in supporting all of us older Kolb
builders. Since I have been flying my Firestar for 17 years, I'm thrilled
to know I have their factory support. The parts I bought were very
reasonably priced, for todays' prices, so I didn't think that I was
getting ripped off. I ask him to cut some chomoly steel tubes for me and
he did it finishing the ends off too.
Thank you Travis, if you are listening .....
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
17 years flying it
writes:
>
>
> Greetings listers:
>
> I thought I would start out the new year with a report on my visit
> to the
> TNK factory. I am rebuilding a Firestar II and needed some of the
> longer
> lengths of tubing that normally have to be truck shipped. Since I
> was
> spending New Year's in Knoxville, I decided to just drive up to
> London and
> pick up the items myself.
>
> I found the staff to be very friendly and accomodating. They took
> time from
> what they were working on to explain what they were doing. I took
> the grand
> tour from R&D with Brian, the welding area, and finally Parts with
> Donnie. I
> can tell you that I was impressed with the entire shop area. It was
> a
> homebuilders dream. All the aluminum, chromoly, and parts you could
> ever
> want.
>
> I must confess I had a bit of buyer's panic as I saw everything I
> needed to
> finish my plane right there on the shelves, ready to grab and throw
> in the
> truck. I managed to restrain myself to getting the tubing I needed,
> some
> rivets, a throttle cable--but I did splurge and get the streamline
> strut
> covers. Those struts just look more "aircraft" to me than the round
> ones
> I've always had.
>
> Some impressions:
> They are all good knowledgeable airplane people. Unlike some of the
> more
> extreme rumors that have circulated, the welding guys are not
> long-haired,
> weed-smoking types.
> I was very impressed by the jigs for each fuselage type, the
> production area
> for wing ribs, and the beautiful powder-coating on many of the
> planes being
> built.
> The efficient use of space in the facility is amazing. You would not
> believe
> that 5-6 models of UL kits are being built in a building that size.
>
> Well, this will be my last post for a while as I now have plenty of
> aluminum
> to play with out in the shop. My first weekend home I got the
> H-section
> stalled in the boom tube and the plane on the gear. Should be a great
>
> 2004!
>
> Tired of slow downloads? Compare online deals from your local
> high-speed
> providers now. https://broadband.msn.com
>
>
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar |
I tried heating the lexan to make it easier to bend for my center section
gap seal. DON'T do it ! ! ! I used an industrial strength hot air gun -
like a BIG hair dryer - kept it moving, and the lexan still didn't heat
evenly, I guess. It holds integrity real well at pretty high temperatures,
then starts to sag in spots. Couldn't get a clean bend. Threw it away, and
took a new piece to a local air conditioning shop and had them bend it on
their brake. Cold, (that's relative - cold in a Palm
Springs summer is about 115 deg) it took a sharp 90 deg bend with no
problems. Smaller pieces, you could do - and I have done - by clamping them
between 2 pieces of heavy angle in a vice, but, as has been said, it's very
tough stuff. For bigger pieces, go to a sheet metal shop. I think they
charged me $5.00. Very worth it. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Morgan" <morganguy(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar
>
>
> Brakleen (you can get it at an auto parts store) works great for
cleaninghydraulic/brake fluid. Has anyone tried heating the Lexan before
bending? I didn't think you could bend that stuff cold. How 'bout making a
hinged trim tab so you can adjust it without having to bend anything? Just a
thought.
>
>
> Guy Morgan,
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ian Heritch" <iheritch(at)satx.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Contact Paper Residue |
Polly Fiber C-2210, great stuff & won't harm the paint.
----- Original Message -----
From: "James and Cathy Tripp" <jtripp(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Contact Paper Residue
>
> I used someone's suggestion to use contact paper for the stars on my paint
job. I think it was Uncle Craig. That combined with Don G's suggestion to
spray the mask with the base color before shooting the final color worked
out great. I had very little bleeding under. My new problem occured after
removing the masking. The contact paper left a sticky residue. Any ideas on
how to get it off without affecting the paint???
>
> James Tripp
> FS II, Masking and painting
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar |
Yah, me 3 - I've paid my dues in that club - but it took him all of about 5
seconds on the brake. What you do hafta watch for is junk - grit, chunks,
etc. on the brake that could scratch your lexan. They just don't seem to
understand (or care) that scratches aren't wanted. It also makes a little
better job if they put a thin piece of scrap sheet on top of the lexan, to
give a little larger radius on the bend. Old timers on the List will
remember what I went thru several years ago, when I ruined several pieces of
lexan by doing things the hard way the 1st time. One of the biggest
is....................DON'T leave it laying around in the sun (especially in
Palm Springs) with the protective paper still on it. The sun cooks that
paper on till it's a part of the lexan - and it WON'T come off. You don't
wanna spill your adhesive on the lexan, either............turns it milky.
Ask me how I know. Lotsa fancy language accompanied THAT mistake. Oh, yah,
we got stories............... :-) Lar. Do not
Archive.
Pee Ess: Just got word today that the heat treating shop is done with
my landing gear - finally - and it should be back here this week. I'm
leaving tomorrow on an art education/Elephant Seal/old friend/new friend
visit for 4 days, so won't be able to pick it up till next Monday, then will
take it to the powder coater. Oh, man, what great news ! ! ! Maybe life is
good, after all. :-) Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar
>
> for what I went through, I'd be charging a hell of a lot more than 5
bucks.
>
> aaron
>
> --
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi(at)supernet.com> |
| Subject: | Gearbox Oil Leaks? |
Does anyone have any insight on gear oil leaking from the flange seal on
a C or E gearbox? My friend tok his E box apart to fix an oil leak, but
the seal looks like new and fits snugly on the flange. I also have a C
box that was leaking, and found out that my seal is no longer availably.
The seal that I was sent was too big. So I call and was informed that
the seal and flange where updated, which would be $200+. Supposedly the
update was to address an oil leak problem?? Did any of you guy run into
this? Thanks! -- Earl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Virginia UL Safety Seminar |
The Virginia Ultralight Safety Seminar will be held March 20, 2004 at
the Virginia Aviation Museum on Richmond Int'l Airport. More info:
Carolyn Toth (804) 236-3637.
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar |
heh... my lexan was an old already scratched windshield. It had been sitting
around one hanger or another for years unprotected. It looked like hell. So
I used that new palm sander and sanded the entire surface of the tab. Looks
really nice like fogged glass.... definitely looks like it was meant to be
that way ;)
Aaron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar
>
> Yah, me 3 - I've paid my dues in that club - but it took him all of about
5
> seconds on the brake. What you do hafta watch for is junk - grit, chunks,
> etc. on the brake that could scratch your lexan. They just don't seem to
> understand (or care) that scratches aren't wanted. It also makes a little
> better job if they put a thin piece of scrap sheet on top of the lexan, to
> give a little larger radius on the bend. Old timers on the List will
> remember what I went thru several years ago, when I ruined several pieces
of
> lexan by doing things the hard way the 1st time. One of the biggest
> is....................DON'T leave it laying around in the sun (especially
in
> Palm Springs) with the protective paper still on it. The sun cooks that
> paper on till it's a part of the lexan - and it WON'T come off. You
don't
> wanna spill your adhesive on the lexan, either............turns it milky.
> Ask me how I know. Lotsa fancy language accompanied THAT mistake. Oh,
yah,
> we got stories............... :-) Lar. Do not
> Archive.
>
> Pee Ess: Just got word today that the heat treating shop is done with
> my landing gear - finally - and it should be back here this week. I'm
> leaving tomorrow on an art education/Elephant Seal/old friend/new friend
> visit for 4 days, so won't be able to pick it up till next Monday, then
will
> take it to the powder coater. Oh, man, what great news ! ! ! Maybe life
is
> good, after all. :-) Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Building Kolb Mk III
> N78LB Vamoose
> www.gogittum.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Aaron Hollingsworth" <aaron(at)gamespeak.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Bleeding, Lexan, and knocking off Skidbar
>
>
>
> >
> > for what I went through, I'd be charging a hell of a lot more than 5
> bucks.
> >
> > aaron
> >
> > --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Harrison" <firestarii(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Contact Paper Residue |
Get a can of the PolyFiber Cleaning liquid from Jim and Dondi or your
favorite supplier. It cleans anything off your plane without affecting the
polyfiber. I used it to clean off overspray, bleeding under paint lines, oil
stains, ink from felt tip pens, etc. It works great and one can will last
for years.
>From: "James and Cathy Tripp" <jtripp(at)elmore.rr.com>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Kolb-List: Contact Paper Residue
>Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 17:06:57 -0600
>
>
>
>I used someone's suggestion to use contact paper for the stars on my paint
>job. I think it was Uncle Craig. That combined with Don G's suggestion to
>spray the mask with the base color before shooting the final color worked
>out great. I had very little bleeding under. My new problem occured after
>removing the masking. The contact paper left a sticky residue. Any ideas on
>how to get it off without affecting the paint???
>
>James Tripp
>FS II, Masking and painting
>
>
Working moms: Find helpful tips here on managing kids, home, work and
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.L.Turner" <jimturner(at)mwt.net> |
| Subject: | Lexan Windshields |
After reading the comments about cleaning Lexan (polycarbonate) windshields and
the problems with scratching, I had to throw my 2 cents worth in.
Several years I was a regional salesman selling plastics here in the Midwest for
a company called Tekra Corporation. The majority of the product I sold was
Lexan that was used primarily as graphics on instrument clusters of John Deere
tractors, Caterpillar earth moving equipment, numerous brands of washers & dryers,
dish washers, microwaves, etc. These instrument control panels were made
of Lexan that was "hardcoated" to resist household cleaners, wiping, and touching
with hands. Tekra Corporation actually applied their own coating to Lexan
and marketed it under the brand name of "Marnot". General Electric Plastics,
the makers of Lexan brand polycarbonates quickly followed suit with their own
hardcoated Lexan film, known as "Lexan -HP".
I only sold "film gauge", which was plastic up to .030 in thickness. Thicker gauges
than .030 are known as "sheet gauge". I think that a "hardcoated" polycarbonate
is exactly what you should be using on your Kolbs. The hardcoating will
greatly reduce scratching and should have no problems handling glass cleaners
or paper towels when cleaning them. The hardcoating also has U.V. inhibitors
in it and will slow the yellowing that polycarbonate exhibits after a while.
Hardcoated polycarbonates should be available from sign shops, or possibly from the same sources you are currently buying regular polycarbonate. The two major manufacturers of polycarbonate are GE and Bayer Plastics. Major distributors in this country are Tekra Corporation, Regal Plastics, and Cadillac Plastics. Check your yellow pages under "plastics" and you should be able to locate a supplier. Another thought would be to contact a larger sign shop or a large graphic screen printing company, (not just a tee-shirt screener). Tekra Corporation does have a website, (www.tekra.com), and they may sell you a sheet or two direct, but they'll only go up to .030 in thickness. While the cost may be greater than ordinary Lexan, a hardcoated polycarbonate will far outlast uncoated and prevent the hassles of constantly dealing with scratches and replacements.
I also read with interest how others have been bending polycarbonate in vises and
without heat. While this is possible in film gauges, heavier gauges will likely
exhibit internal fractures that will weaken the polycarbonate and could
cause it to fracture completely with added stress and vibration after installation.
If memory serves me right, the distortion temperature of Lexan is 270 degrees.
That's the point that the Lexan will easily form in heavier gauges. I'm
not saying it isn't possible to bend the Lexan without heat, but it sure can't
be as easy as with heat, especially in thicker gauges.
If TNK isn't using hardcoated polycarbonate, they certainly should be.
Jim Turner
Firestar BRS 377
Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.L.Turner" <jimturner(at)mwt.net> |
| Subject: | Hardcoated Lexan Follow-up |
Bob Bean wrote:
"I posted that GE MR10 was hardcoated all I got was a big yawn. -I think
one lister responded. It may cost more but it doesn't scratch unless you hit
it with something sharp. (done that). It might suffer some from a sandstorm."
Good point, Bob. As a salesman for the hardcoated polycarbonates AND polyesters,
some of our sales literature packets included a small piece of Lexan that had
the hardcoating on half the piece. Also included was a small piece of steel
wool that you could buff the Lexan with. Obviously the steel wool badly affected
the "raw" Lexan and scuffed it badly. The hardcoated Lexan side was unaffected.
While GE's hardcoated Lexan was designated "HP" during my tenure, it may have evolved
to be named "MR10". I know that Bayer Plastics, (based in Germany) was
called Marfoil, and Tekra's, (based in New Berlin, WI), was called Marnot. But
keep in mind that the hardcoat is only on one side and is offered in gloss
and a matte finish of various percentages of translucency.
I sold millions of dollars of the stuff each year back in the mid 1980's into 1995
and had hundreds of large sample sheets of the stuff in my garage back then.
Now I'd dearly love to have just a few sheets for my Firestar!
Jim Turner
Firestar BRS 377
Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
Any explanation as to why? I sure I've heard of them telling people to cut
off a little of the tip to make minor adjustments for clearance, RPM
and/or loading.
jerb
>
>I just wrote to IVO about reshaping the tips and they recommended against
>it.
>
>Their reply:
> >Dear Duncan,
> >We do not want you to alter the prop. Ivo has found our tip to be as quiet
> >or quieter,
> >as efficient or more efficient than all the other tips. He has tried them
> >all on the Ivoprop.
> >Inside there is fiberglass rope that starts at the tip and goes around the
> >bolt hole and back to the tip,
> >same on leading and trailing edge. If you alter you will jeopardize the
> >structural integrity.
> >Regards, Ron
>
>Ron sent a follow-up that said one reason the IVOPROPS were quieter was due
>to their flexibility. If the fiberglas rope doesn't extend all the way to
>both the leading and trailing edges, the problem might be delamination where
>the tip is exposed to the airflow. Y'all be careful. It might be
>worthwhile to call IVO and have a discussion - I've always found them to be
>real helpful.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Eugene Zimmerman" <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Prop tips
>
>
>
> >
> > I have a concern for anyone cutting an IVO tip. Remember that the core
> > is not where the strength is but in the kevlar or carbon fiber or what
> > ever it is that is on the outer surface of the prop.
> > It seems to me there could be a problem of delamination if the core is
> > exposed and no longer consistently covered by the fiber cover. Wood
> > props like Terry has would not have this issue.
> >
> > Just passing along my concern.
> >
> > EZ
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
jerb and others,
I have been thinking about your trying to cut the tips on your IVO prop
and a agree with Eugene and Duncan about possible delaminaton. What I
think is the problem is that when you only cut the tip to reduce the
diameter your not exposing anymore fiber to the direct impact of the air
stream since the tip is at a right angle to it . But, if you cut the
tip at an angle and then contour that angle into an airfoil, you will
have unsupported fiber directly exposed in to the air stream. Cutting
the angle and contouring will leave a lot of cut strands facing forward
with only the foam core for it to hold onto. This is just my reasoning
and very well could be wrong. Of course I didn't have this problem
because I did it to a wood prop.
I think the solution for composite props is for the company
manufacturing them to form the tip in this configuration during
production. Problem is they then would have to make a mold for each
different diameter since you wouldn't just be able to cut them to size.
This might be why their reluctant to make this design.
Hopefully someone out there knows more then I and come come up with a
way to alter the composite props safely. Then you all could take
advantage of the improved noise reduction and performance.
Terry - FireFly #95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop tips and IVOs |
Hi Gang:
Sitting here in the Heart of Dixie, just got dark, already 34F. Was 20F
the other morning. Maybe I am located to far north. Can't go much further
south or I'll be back in the Yankees again. Just kidding guys. I have a
lot of Yankee friends. Besides, I was born in Mainville, PA. Guess that
makes me a Yankee with an Alabama accent.
With all the chatter about IVOs and prop tip angles, got to thinking about
IVO props. Perhaps some of you experts and others can share some personal
knowledge on this.
I have flown IVOs on factory aircraft, but never owned one. Therefore, I
know very little about them, other than when the silver tape starts coming
off. They will let you know about it in the form of strange and serious
vibrations.
The thing I was thinking about was the foam core and the open ends. From
what I gather, IVO makes all the blades, for a certain run, the same length,
then cuts them to please the customer. That leaves the prop tip with the
foam core exposed to the elements. I don't know if they seal those exposed
tips or not.
My question is, "What effect does moisture (all types), freezing temps,
bugs, etc., have on the blade performance, durability, endurance, and
reliability?"
Off the top of my head, seems like, that foam might act like a sponge. I do
not know. Thinking out loud again.
I know wooden props have a moisture problem if their finish coating of
varnish, or whatever, is penetrated.
On the other hand, being a Warp Drive kind a guy, we do not have a problem
with foam core, moisture, bugs, and imbalance. For that matter, I have
never had a balance problem, or had to balance a Warp Drive since I started
flying them more than 10 years ago. Noisy? You bet, but they get me there
and get me home. For that confidence, I'll learn to live with the noise.
I heard a year or so ago that Daryl, of Warp Drive, was working on a
scimitar prop blade that would eliminate the Warp Drive "whiney noise".
Hopefully, they are still working on that blade. I have not heard.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joel Reed" <jfreed(at)dejazzd.com> |
| Subject: | Mark III switch layout |
Hello Kolbers,
I have been wondering how I could change my toggle switch and key switch from
the panel to some where closer to the pilot for easier access. I had been
checking the archives and I learned some things, and I wondered if any of you
have a picture of how you have installed your toggle switches and key switch,
I have heard of some of you installing it above the pilot's head and some of
you have put it along the center. If any of you have pictures for me to see
how you did it, it would be a big help. I am ready to change my while its too
cold to fly now.
Thanks
Joel Reed
93 Kolb Mark III w/582 E-box
Lancaster Co, Pa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <eugenezimmerman(at)dejazzd.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop tips and IVOs |
John Hauck wrote:
>
>
> My question is, "What effect does moisture (all types), freezing temps,
> bugs, etc., have on the blade performance, durability, endurance, and
> reliability?"
>
> Off the top of my head, seems like, that foam might act like a
sponge. I do
> not know. Thinking out loud again.
>
John,
The Ivo core is not foam. ( some composite props are though)
The IVO core is a dense solid kind of plastic that does not absorb
water. The core however does not have fiber in it for the tensile
strength that is necessary to withstand the centrifugal and other forces.
The outer fiberglass works like the caps on the wing spar that some
airplanes use with a foam insulation core or web. It is Very light yet
strong.
The Ivo prop is extremely durable.
I put a screwdriver through one at full throttle. It flung the
screwdriver into the ground sideways about a foot deep. It was a
tremendous impact. It put a gouge about 3/8 inch deep X 3/4 inch long
into the leading edge.
I could have been baaadd!!! Or Worse!
I repaired the gouge and used the prop many years.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III switch layout |
I don't have pictures of my old arrangement - I built a little panel of
aluminum that extended from the top of the strut that the flap handle and
the choke control are mounted to, forward to the steel bow that the
windshield forms around. The panel was about 3 inches wide and about 15
inches long. I had two rows of switches in it. I didn't use the key
switch, I used individual toggle switches for the ignition. I built an
enclosure from lexan ( just bent it in a vise, guys) and fastened it over
the back (top) of the switches to keep them covered. It was handy when I
was using the original panel in the fiberglass nosecone, but I got tired of
it because I never really got comfortable reaching for the switches and
flipping them by feel, I always looked to be sure I was switching the right
one, and I had to lean one way and twist my neck to see. After about 20
hours, I installed a new instrument panel about 10 inches closer to the
seats. The panel is bigger now and holds everything, and I can reach all
the switches with my harness fastened. Like a lot of others have done, I
hinged the panel so it drops down and I can get at everything to work on it.
That's been real nice. I have the EIS out right now to get the fuel flow
system installed - it's nice not to have to go through contortions just to
unscrew an instrument from the panel. (Next project is an access door in
the nose cone to get at the battery and brake fluid reservoir.)
Good luck. Sorry it's too cold to fly. We get a couple days like that
every year or so - hate it when that happens... ;<)
Duncan McBride
Twinstar Mk III, 319DM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joel Reed" <jfreed(at)dejazzd.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Mark III switch layout
>
> Hello Kolbers,
> I have been wondering how I could change my toggle switch and key
switch from the panel to some where closer to the pilot for easier access.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
Several years ago I got a chance to go through a composites layup and
repair course at Moody Aviation School here in Elizabethton and one of the
things we had to do was repair damaged composites that had a soft core. We
each had to layup three layers of glass/epoxy over a practice core, cut a
divot in it, and then cut away the glass skin and repair the divot.
What we did was use a small flexible sanding disc about 3" in diameter to
carefully sand down through the plys of glass until we just barely touched
the foam core, scarfing away the glass at a very shallow angle, the same
general concept as AC 43 shows for scarf patching a plywood skin on an
airplane. So we had the shallow scarfed depression, and filled it in with
carefully cut circles of glass and epoxy, each one larger in diameter than
the one below it, overlaying a corresponding layer of the scarfed glass,
plus an extra one on top. After it cured, then we sanded the top one pretty
much back off, not touching the next one down, to give it a smooth surface.
It was very tedious and labor intensive, but I think that is how you would
safely change the shape of an Ivo tip if you reformed it.
You would cut it to the desired shape, and then scarf sand the outer skin
at a shallow angle so you could lay up several thin glass plys over it to
restore the skin thickness to something very close to original except with
the new shape. I would expect it to be tedious and require a good mask and
goggles, isn't that thing carbon fiber? Probably Very Nasty.
Plus, you would want to have the leading and trailing edges made so that
you could get the new glass plys to contact each other in a way that would
assure good security at the sharp leading and trailing edges. The idea of a
small perimeter cord sounds good.
Concerning the foam core: I have taken a knife and poked at my core at the
end of the blade, and it feels about the consistency and firmness of
basswood. Don't know yet what it would look like without the outer skin, or
how solid it might be. If anyone has a busted Ivo laying on a back shelf,
I'll pay shipping if you want to send it to me to practice on, then I'll
modify my good prop and let everybody know how it works. Or if it works. Or
if it is a waste of time and screws up an otherwise good propeller...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>jerb and others,
>
>I have been thinking about your trying to cut the tips on your IVO prop
>and a agree with Eugene and Duncan about possible delaminaton. What I
>think is the problem is that when you only cut the tip to reduce the
>diameter your not exposing anymore fiber to the direct impact of the air
>stream since the tip is at a right angle to it . But, if you cut the
>tip at an angle and then contour that angle into an airfoil, you will
>have unsupported fiber directly exposed in to the air stream. Cutting
>the angle and contouring will leave a lot of cut strands facing forward
>with only the foam core for it to hold onto. This is just my reasoning
>and very well could be wrong. Of course I didn't have this problem
>because I did it to a wood prop.
>
>I think the solution for composite props is for the company
>manufacturing them to form the tip in this configuration during
>production. Problem is they then would have to make a mold for each
>different diameter since you wouldn't just be able to cut them to size.
>This might be why their reluctant to make this design.
>
>Hopefully someone out there knows more then I and come come up with a
>way to alter the composite props safely. Then you all could take
>advantage of the improved noise reduction and performance.
>
>Terry - FireFly #95
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop tips and IVOs |
| From: | ul15rhb(at)juno.com |
John,
I'm not sure what the core is made of, but I know that mine has retained
its balance for about 12 years without doing anything to it. I may have
added some fast glue to the ends when I sawed it off, but I can't
remember.
I know Ivo makes those medium sized props for higher horsepower engines.
Ralph
Original Firestar
17 years flying it
writes:
>
> Hi Gang:
>
> Sitting here in the Heart of Dixie, just got dark, already 34F.
> Was 20F
> the other morning. Maybe I am located to far north. Can't go much
> further
> south or I'll be back in the Yankees again. Just kidding guys. I
> have a
> lot of Yankee friends. Besides, I was born in Mainville, PA. Guess
> that
> makes me a Yankee with an Alabama accent.
>
> With all the chatter about IVOs and prop tip angles, got to thinking
> about
> IVO props. Perhaps some of you experts and others can share some
> personal
> knowledge on this.
>
> I have flown IVOs on factory aircraft, but never owned one.
> Therefore, I
> know very little about them, other than when the silver tape starts
> coming
> off. They will let you know about it in the form of strange and
> serious
> vibrations.
>
> The thing I was thinking about was the foam core and the open ends.
> From
> what I gather, IVO makes all the blades, for a certain run, the same
> length,
> then cuts them to please the customer. That leaves the prop tip
> with the
> foam core exposed to the elements. I don't know if they seal those
> exposed
> tips or not.
>
> My question is, "What effect does moisture (all types), freezing
> temps,
> bugs, etc., have on the blade performance, durability, endurance,
> and
> reliability?"
>
> Off the top of my head, seems like, that foam might act like a
> sponge. I do
> not know. Thinking out loud again.
>
> I know wooden props have a moisture problem if their finish coating
> of
> varnish, or whatever, is penetrated.
>
> On the other hand, being a Warp Drive kind a guy, we do not have a
> problem
> with foam core, moisture, bugs, and imbalance. For that matter, I
> have
> never had a balance problem, or had to balance a Warp Drive since I
> started
> flying them more than 10 years ago. Noisy? You bet, but they get
> me there
> and get me home. For that confidence, I'll learn to live with the
> noise.
>
> I heard a year or so ago that Daryl, of Warp Drive, was working on
> a
> scimitar prop blade that would eliminate the Warp Drive "whiney
> noise".
> Hopefully, they are still working on that blade. I have not heard.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
=
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <rwpike(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III switch layout |
If you have the single center stick, you could build a little console to go
between your legs. That's where mine is and aside from needing to carefully
plan how to get all the wires and switches in a small place, it was not too
difficult.
Picture at
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg4.htm
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Hello Kolbers,
> I have been wondering how I could change my toggle switch and key
> switch from the panel to some where closer to the pilot for easier
> access. I had been checking the archives and I learned some
> things, and I wondered if any of you have a picture of how you have
> installed your toggle switches and key switch, I have heard of some of
> you installing it above the pilot's head and some of you have put it
> along the center. If any of you have pictures for me to see how you did
> it, it would be a big help. I am ready to change my while its too cold
> to fly now.
> Thanks
> Joel Reed
> 93 Kolb Mark III w/582 E-box
> Lancaster Co, Pa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mark III switch layout |
>
> Hello Kolbers,
> I have been wondering how I could change my toggle switch and key
switch from the panel to some where closer to the pilot for easier access.
I had been checking the archives and I learned some things, and I wondered
if any of you have a picture of how you have installed your toggle switches
and key switch, I have heard of some of you installing it above the pilot's
head and some of you have put it along the center. If any of you have
pictures for me to see how you did it, it would be a big help. I am ready
to change my while its too cold to fly now.
> Thanks
> Joel Reed
> 93 Kolb Mark III w/582 E-box
> Lancaster Co, Pa
>
>
> Joel,
I have my switch box mounted in the center just in front of the bow that the
Mk-3s windshield wraps around above and in front of my head, its mounted
with P-clamps to the bow and the foreward rear enclosure bows.
As my Gull doors and rear enclosure are of my own design, I don't know if
you can mount yours the same.
In this position the switches, breakers and ignition are very easy to see
and reach.
Dennis Rowe, Mk-3,Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Sending unit for egt's |
This past fall, one side of my dual egt guage went to 0. I flew with it that
way for a month and the second side went to 0. I checked the guage , as per
instructions, with a meter, and it said it was bad. Ordered a new one from
sky sports and installed it ,using my old sending units. At that point I was
back to having a reading on one side. I still need to check out ,or run new
wiring, but I was wonder from you guys, how often do the sending units really go
bad? Is that a common problem to cause no reading at the guage or is it
usually found to be a wiring problem? The guage is ok as when I switch wires on
the
back, the sides that read and dont read , reverse. That leaves it to either
wiring or probe. Still need to run more tests to find the problem but as I
asked ,I was wondering how many of you have had to replace sending units?
Thanks
-10* Albany NY
Fly Safe
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Morning Gang:
WARNING: Aviation related, but not necessarily Kolb.
Still have lousy weather in Alabama.
A friend shared this url with me. Very interesting stuff on developing
experimental helicopters.
http://pixelito.reference.be/
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Armstrong" <tophera(at)centurytel.net> |
-----Original Message-----
From: Christopher Armstrong [mailto:tophera(at)centurytel.net]
Subject: FW: Kolb-List: Prop tips
The Ivo is not the best choice to do this on because of the sandwich
structure, but if you take as little of the skins off as possible during
the shaping process and then put two layers of a very fine glass cloth
back on covering over the new leading edge and overlapping the existing
skins you will be able to make a structurally sound new tip. The real
problem is that now you are going to have to rebalance them and hope
that your added weight is lighter then what you cut off so your not
overstreesing the roots of the blades.
John H: I believe that the foam inside the Ivo is Clark foam, a closed
cell foam with very high density. It is impervious to pretty much
anything so you probably don't have to cover the ends, though I always
thought it would look better. It is nothing like Styrofoam.
The warp drive with its solid carbon construction would seem an ideal
blade for this kind of shaping... although it probably isn't easy to
grind carbon fibers
Topher
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> The warp drive with its solid carbon construction would seem an ideal
> blade for this kind of shaping... although it probably isn't easy to
> grind carbon fibers
>
>
> Topher
Topher/All:
No problem working with carbon fiber Warp Drive blades.
I have cut them with a band saw, repaired dings with JB Weld (the JB Weld
was much harder to sand than the carbon fiber).
Don't think I will modify my new prop tips though.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russ Kinne <kinnepix(at)earthlink.net> |
Kolbers
A suggestion -- at least one member of a group XC flight might carry a roll
of fabric-repair tape. This is lightweight ripstop nylon, 2" wide with a
good adhesive on the back. I used it on a parachute for a couple years
without any sign of it's coming off.
May also be called "sail repair tape", comes in red, white or blue, find it
in boating stores or sport-parachuting centers. Cut off the corners
-'coffin-corner' it - so it won't start to peel up.
And I hope you never need it!
Russ Kinne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russ Kinne <kinnepix(at)earthlink.net> |
There are tapes and tapes -- duct tape is OK for light use and comes in
sevaral colors.
The military has "90-mile an hour tape", sort of duct tape on steroids;
about twice as strong, and OD in color; available in surplus sources. For
fabric repairs Spinnaker tape would be much better, even tho it's too light
for many other uses.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jo and Larry" <joandlp(at)starband.net> |
What is the thickness of the Lexan used on Kolb enclosures? Does anyone have
a source for it?
Thanks
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dama" <dama(at)mindspring.com> |
It's been a while since I mentioned it on the list but to those that are not aware,
you will find the best of the Kolb-type people in the database found here...
http://www.springeraviation.net/
Happy Flying...
Kip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary r. voigt" <johndeereantique(at)qwest.net> |
JGlynn5546(at)attbi.com
| Subject: | WINTER FLYING ON LAKE MINNETONKA!!! |
Ralph, today was another good day for flying the lake...not quite as bumpy
as yesterday. here are some pics that i took...and ray you need to get out there
because there were ppc's flying today...see the pic they are hard to see but
look in the background. i also included one of my favorite little pond to land
in (lake joe) also. i will be going again tomorrow morning as the weather
will be warming up.
Gary r. voigt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi(at)supernet.com> |
Hey Guys,
Does anyone have any experience with the exhaust cabin heater system
that LEAF sells part # H7311? How does it work on a 582? What kind of
heating systems are you using? I was thinking of using a water heating
system. But I'm not sure how well that would work without using a
thermostat in the cooling system,and I don't like doing that on a model
90 582 (non bluehead). I'm open to any ideas. -- Earl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sandy Hegyi" <sandyh(at)dccnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: VERY IMPORTANT INFO |
What a ripoff! In Canada if you join COPA you get PL and PD insurance for
$125 CDN. Ultralights are up to 1232 lbs. here.
----- Original Message -----
From: "George" <gtb(at)georgesmail.com>
; "H PAUL BURNS"
Subject: Kolb-List: VERY IMPORTANT INFO
>
> The info below was received via another list that
> I belong to. I felt it was of the utmost importance
> that I should forward the text to you (and get it out
> to all the club members, & list members) ASAP.
>
> George
>
> =============================
>
> USUA has secured an agreement with First Flight Insurance,
> underwritten by Lloyds of London, to provide liability insurance for
> ultralights & fat-ultralights, at an estimated annual cost of $376.
> You'll have to join USUA ($25) and register your craft with USUA
> ($25) in order to buy the coverage.
>
> By trade I am a claims adjuster for the nations 7th largest insurance
> company. People...you do not know the seriousness of the litigation
> problems this country faces! Rest assured you WILL BE sued should
> you have any type of incident causing injury or damages. I know, I
> know...everyone thinkgs it will not happen to them. Just one
> incident could cost you everything you own! I suggest you join USUA
> and buy the coverage for $375 +/-.
>
> http://www.usua.org
>
>
> ---
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "CRAIG M NELSON" <vitalfx0(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | carbon fiber instrument pod |
Hay guyes
I now have my instrument pods ready for sale if any one is interested. Jim building
a MKIII ex in cal. yours is ready , email me off the list. check the web
sight for pictures
uncle craig
MLIIIex 912uls warp
Arizona
www.milows.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
>
> There are tapes and tapes -- duct tape is OK for light use and comes in
> sevaral colors.
Hi Russ/All:
I have discovered, over the years, just about any tape will do in a pinch.
I was using "Army 90 mph tape" long before I was patching holes in Kolbs.
Twenty years ago, if I got a hole in my Kolb fabric, I would go to the
extreme to repair, even though finished in Aerothane two part polyurethane.
The longer I played with Kolbs the lazier I got. I discovered repairs to a
hole made by a dropped screw driver into the top of a wing could be
accomplished with clear packaging tape. Simply cut a dollar patch with
pinking shears and stick it on. I could then go over it with a coat or two
of Aerothane and the patch would last indifinitely, or until I crashed the
next time.
I once put extremely large holes in the bottom of wing and aileron on my
Ultrastar. On takeoff from local airport, the "famous" Ultrastar muffler
mounting bolt, fender washer, and nut, tried to go through the prop, but
failed. Brand new Jim Culver wood prop with urethane edge was destroyed,
then the foot long urethane edge went through the bottom of the wing and out
the top. The bolt, nut, or fender washers went through the aileron. A nice
dead stick landing before the engine shook itself out of the mounts, a
request for my buddy to go up to hauck's holler and retrieve my spare prop
off the mantel, and a roll of cheap duct tape, got the Ultrastar back to
Gantt International Airport under her owner power. BTW, my first airplane
was named "P'fer".
During a failed attempt to land on "Sparky", an unimproved private airstrip
next to the Alaska Highway, between Tok and Delta Junction, resulted in a
lot of damage to the upper horizontal stabilizer fabric from the alder
bushes being whipped over the leading edges. I had some 2" wide plastic
electrical tape on board. Patched up the holes and busted paint, flew the
remaining flight to Dead Horse, and back to Titus, Alabama.
Today, Miss P'fer has many, many decals all over her fabric. These are
primarily to cover holes and cracked paint in the fabric. The do a good
job, some longer than others. I keep a good supply all the time from
Oshkosh and Lakeland, replacing decals as they become aged and ugly.
I use "gaffer's" tape, supplied by a friend that works at the local civic
center. I use it primarily to cover radiator in winter temps to bring
cylinder head and engine oil temps up to normal operating range. It is good
because it sticks well, but is easy to remove without leaving adhesive
residue.
It is nearly noon and nearly 35F here at hauck's holler, alabama. My EAA
chapter meeting is at Wetumpka Airport at 1400 with a briefing from Dan
Horton about his new Chech "round" engine he is going to install in the bipe
he is building. Sorry, can not remember the name of the plane. I probably
will miss the engine brief because it will be done at Dan's hanger that has
no heat...........
Take care and stay warm,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> What kind of
> heating systems are you using? I was thinking of using a water heating
> system. -- Earl
Hi Earl/All:
I thought a lot about cabin heat over the years, especially in the Arctic
when I was so bundled up with winter clothing I could hardly get in and out
of the MK III.
Prior to the 2001, or it may have been the 2000 flight, I purchased a Chilli
Vest from Sargeant MC Equip in Orlando, FL.
http://www.sargentcycle.com/chillivest.htm
Folks, it is still only $179.95, and worth every cent. Works like a charm
simply by hooking up a couple 12VDC wires to your battery, or if no battery,
to your 12DVC reg/rec. Operates with a digital thermostat. Much better
than the old fashioned mechanical thermostats. Maintains constant heat
rather than high heat with a cool off cycle until the thermostat turns back
on again.
Eliminates the requirement for hoses, heater cores, fans, valves, and the
possibility of getting sprayed with hot water during flight. Not to mention
what happens to visibility inside the cockpit if this should happen. Ask
Norm Labhart or Brian Blackwook what happens when hot engine coolant is
blown into the cockpit while flying. This happened on two occassions with
two seperate Kolbs.
I flew into White Horse, Yukon Territory, in 2001. OAT was 28F. I had on
Levis, T Shirt, Chilli Vest, leather flight jacket and no gloves. I was
comfortable in the cockpit.
BTW, be sure and order a little larger vest than your chest size to
accomodate any unexpected increases in chest sizes over the years. Mine is
fitting a little snug these days. :-)
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark German" <aerofab(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Kolbers:
I had my first flight today at 9:30am OAT was 22F Wind was less then 5.
Flight lasted 35 minuets. The Kolbra handled better than expected. The 912
took control and blasted me off the ground. Just stayed around the airport
for the first flight to test. Had to hold just a little back pressure on
the stick. What a blast to fly!!.
We did a video and will try to get some pictures posted. Had lots of
airport people watching. I think they were impressed.
Would like to thank all you on the list for help over the last 3 years. and
TNK for there support. Looking forward to the Monument Valley trip.
Mark G.
MN.
912-Kolbra
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Guy and Jodi Swenson" <guyandjodi(at)bvillemn.net> |
Earl,
I have bee using the exhaust heater for two years now. It works great, I do
recommend you have the muffler coated. Jet Hot did mine for just over
$100.00. If you go with a painted muffler of use it as it comes stock it
will still work fine but you won't know if there's any corrosion eating away
at the muffler. This is not a heater that can be readily removed. I vent the
heat tube into the wing gap area for summer flying. Have not had any
problems doing it that way. EGT's have not been affected at all summer of
winter.
The only drawback to this system is it requires air flow to bring heat into
the cabin. You do get a little air movement during run-up. It is enough to
keep the windows defogged. Then once you are moving you have plenty of heat.
I am flying a Mark III Xtra built per the plans and have not made any
changes to the wing gap seal and still get enough heat to fly comfortably.
The coldest I have flow to date is -10 degrees F. You still need your winter
clothing at that temp, anything above zero I can start to shed the heavy
winter clothing. The coldest part is set up and take down, I store my xtra
in an enclosed trailer.
I have a friend that flies a T-bird II with a model 90-582, he installed a
truck cab (water) heater in it. He placed the heater first in line from the
engine then from the heater out line to the radiator. This worked fine until
spring, he had to add a bypass line with a valve around the heater to get
enough cooling for summer flying. Now all he has to do is close the valve on
the bypass line for winter flying and open it for summer flying. I don't
think he ever installed a thermostat. I could check with him if you decide
to go the water route.
Guy Swenson
MK III Xtra 3053B
----- Original Message -----
From: "Earl & Mim Zimmerman" <emzi(at)supernet.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Heaters?
>
> Hey Guys,
> Does anyone have any experience with the exhaust cabin heater system
> that LEAF sells part # H7311? How does it work on a 582? What kind of
> heating systems are you using? I was thinking of using a water heating
> system. But I'm not sure how well that would work without using a
> thermostat in the cooling system,and I don't like doing that on a model
> 90 582 (non bluehead). I'm open to any ideas. -- Earl
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kelvin Kurkowski" <kkurkow(at)chase3000.com> |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
Kolb guys,
Several years ago, I think about 91, a friend of mine in MN sent me my first
glimpse of the Kolb world. It is a tape that has first, an early clip of Homer,s
life, and the "Flyer" in the air, then a promo of the UltraStar, a clip that
is, I think, Dennis in an UltraStar "aerobatic test flight", pretty wild, then
a promo of the, old Kolb Co aircraft with the Firestar, the brand new Mark
III, and the Lazer. The second half is a promo for Rans with all the models
of their aircraft at that time.
The quality through most of it is good with a few fair spots, we've cleaned it
up a bit and have a new copying system that is about as good as it gets in dubbing.
I had tried to copy it before to preserve a copy for myself but couldn't
get a decent recopy. My boys have played it hundreds of times and I just
knew it was going to get ruined, but now we finally got some good copies.
If anyone would like one, I'll send one, for a "donation" of about $10 to cover
the tapes and priority mailing.
Kelvin Kurkowski Grant NE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McBride" <duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight!! |
Well done. It's great to hear of first flights, never get tired of it.
It's one of the good things about this list, the frequency of successful
first flights. Post pictures!
Duncan McBride, sunny south Florida
319DM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark German" <aerofab(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: First Flight!!
>
> Kolbers:
> I had my first flight today at 9:30am OAT was 22F Wind was less then 5.
> Flight lasted 35 minuets. The Kolbra handled better than expected. The
912
> took control and blasted me off the ground. Just stayed around the
airport
> for the first flight to test. Had to hold just a little back pressure on
> the stick. What a blast to fly!!.
> We did a video and will try to get some pictures posted. Had lots of
> airport people watching. I think they were impressed.
> Would like to thank all you on the list for help over the last 3 years.
and
> TNK for there support. Looking forward to the Monument Valley trip.
>
> Mark G.
> MN.
> 912-Kolbra
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: solo and capacitor question |
Fergot, it's a big electrolytic capacitor---aka a "condenser" to some.
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fackler, Ken" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
John Hauk:
I echo your concerns about hot water and coolant spraying into the cockpit
as a great way to ruin your day. I have similar concerns about systems that
draw heat from the exhaust side. But one of the Kolb jockeys here locally is
pulling heat from the cooling shroud. He has (literally) duct-taped a length
of dryer hose from the opening in the shroud and then run the tube down to
his cockpit. What's your opinion about using heat from the heads in such a
way? Any risks or down-side that you can see?
-Ken Fackler
Kolb Mark II / A722KWF
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Thomason" <thomason(at)scrtc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight!! |
Thanks Bob but my problem is I don't have the capacitor with me. It
is two hours away on my plane. I left it on there to be sure I
installed the new one correctly. My brilliance exceeded by ability
December 17, 2003 - January 10, 2004
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-es