Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-fh
February 10, 2005 - March 09, 2005
Jim,hope you are feeling ok, My name is Jay Carter,East Liverpool Ohio,,I
have a 91 Kolb KXP /E Start,118 Hours,tip strobes,& bottom
strobe..dici..2blade,tank warp..Reg usua as 11STR.5 gal yellow& maroon
stits cover,I need some more room.& heater..gets cold in Ohio very nice ...I
can send some e-mail pictures,,I have a flat bed trailer ,,20 FT ,not
closed...I purchased my ship last may o4 and returned it home from western
ohio on the trailer. Jay Carter SEL & Gldr.is yours ship n numbered?
----- Original Message -----
| From: | "flykolb" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Mark III for sale or trade |
>
> Fellow Kolbers,
>
> Bad news for me. After a short but great flight last weekend, I had to
have two stents in my heart on Monday. I understand that my medical is now
void and it will take a minimum of 9 months to get a new one.
>
> Therefore I would like to sell my Mark III or trade it for a true
ultralight - preferably a Kolb.
>
> My Mark III was built in 1991 by a machinist and flies great. It has a 532
engine, hydraulic brakes,strobes, electric sart, ELT, a 3 blade PowerFin
ground adjustable composite prop, and a BRS chute. I just bought a RANS type
heater to keep the enclosure warm in the winter.
>
> Pleae contact me off list if interested. I will take pictures as soon as I
am allowed to drive to the airport.
>
> Jim
> Charlotte, NC
> Mark III
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Garvelink" <link(at)cdc.net> |
| Subject: | Mark III for sale or trade |
Jim,
The way I read this sp business as long as you have not been denied your
medical your drivers license is all you need to continue flying
regardless of your recent stint procedure. As I read it you can fly a
number of 2 place airplanes cubs Taylor crafts pa22-108 piper bricks
(colt). It is kind of like the don't ask don't tell. If you go in and
get a medical they will most likely deny you one. They will put you
thru a battery of test and if you come out of that (unlikely) you would
have to be retested every 6 months. Tell me guys if I am wrong but as
long as you don't get your ppl 3rd class medical and have not been
denied it you can fly sp. It has restrictions but what the heck better
to fly legal than illegal.
SRGLINK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J carter
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mark III for sale or trade
Jim,hope you are feeling ok, My name is Jay Carter,East Liverpool
Ohio,,I
have a 91 Kolb KXP /E Start,118 Hours,tip strobes,& bottom
strobe..dici..2blade,tank warp..Reg usua as 11STR.5 gal yellow& maroon
stits cover,I need some more room.& heater..gets cold in Ohio very nice
...I
can send some e-mail pictures,,I have a flat bed trailer ,,20 FT ,not
closed...I purchased my ship last may o4 and returned it home from
western
ohio on the trailer. Jay Carter SEL & Gldr.is yours ship n numbered?
----- Original Message -----
From: "flykolb" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Mark III for sale or trade
>
> Fellow Kolbers,
>
> Bad news for me. After a short but great flight last weekend, I had to
have two stents in my heart on Monday. I understand that my medical is
now
void and it will take a minimum of 9 months to get a new one.
>
> Therefore I would like to sell my Mark III or trade it for a true
ultralight - preferably a Kolb.
>
> My Mark III was built in 1991 by a machinist and flies great. It has a
532
engine, hydraulic brakes,strobes, electric sart, ELT, a 3 blade PowerFin
ground adjustable composite prop, and a BRS chute. I just bought a RANS
type
heater to keep the enclosure warm in the winter.
>
> Pleae contact me off list if interested. I will take pictures as soon
as I
am allowed to drive to the airport.
>
> Jim
> Charlotte, NC
> Mark III
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | russ kinne <kinnepix(at)earthlink.net> |
Recent posts seem to talk about perhaps tweaking the paramaters a
little, for requirements for a SP license. Please remember that the
insurance companies are ALWAYS looking for an excuse to bug out and say
"thanks for the premiums, goodbye!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | rear attach mount |
Call Kolb. Ask if they will sell you a rear spar attach tube for a firestar
cage You can probably weld it into your US frame. It is a square tube with
the bolts welded on for the universals. Also get the universal joints that
bolt on to it.
Don't forget to ask for the rear spar fittings also
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Is anyone using an Aviasport tachometer. I just can't get used to
the tiny
| meter style tachs that are commonly seen in UL.
|
|
| Steve Boetto
Steve/Gang:
Good Morning.
I've been using one with the 912/912S for more than 10 years and over
2,000 hours. Takes a licking and keeps on ticking. My only complaint
is size. I would like a 3" gauge, but the only come in 2". Oh well,
can't have everything my way.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clifford Dow <cdowjr(at)yahoo.com> |
Barnstormers.com has an ad under ultralights - Kolb - for a Super Kolb III
price is $28K
If this is in good shape - do you think one would go wrong buying this? I bought
my 1999 Chevy Suburban at $35K and it cost me $10K/year in depreciation for
the next 2 years. What would likely happen to this high priced Kolb over the
next three years if kept in a hanger??
would it depreciate radically? If you figure the kit price, a BRS chute & Rotax
912 and all the time to assemble a new one this doesnt sound too bad to me?
What do you all think?
is there any reason why this ultralight wouldn't last me for a decade if I kept
it in a hanger?
thanks
cliff
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb prices? |
doesnt sound too bad to me? What do you all think?
| is there any reason why this ultralight wouldn't last me for a
decade if I kept it in a hanger?
| thanks
| cliff
Hi Cliff/Gang:
I don't see why not.
I have been flying my MKIII since Mar 1992 and have accumulated well
over 2,000 hours on the airframe. Original 912 was changed out for a
912S Spring 2000. Not because the 912 with 1,135.9 hours was worn
out, but because I got a deal I couldn't confuse on the 912S.
I hope my MKIII is still flying another 10 years or more from now.
Don't really want to spend the time and money for another airplane to
buy and build. Plus, I am happy with mine, until I had to fly with
John Williamson and his 912S powered Kolbra. Now that he has
downgraded to the 912, maybe I can keep up with him now. Oh well, if
I can't keep up, he'll slow down and wait on me. He's a good guy.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Perception of an "Ultralight" |
FireFlyers & Ultralighters,
Flying an ultralight vehicle, I have had no problems flying into tower
controlled airports for air shows, airport days, etc. I use a cell
telephone to call the tower before leaving my home airport and give them my
estimated time of arrival and the direction I am coming from. Also I tell
them that I can hear tower radio transmissions but from an open cockpit they
may not be able to understand me. Usually we agree on some point in close
that I am to fly about until they pick me up. Then the tower phases me into
the queue. To keep from holding things up, I fast taxi (fly in ground
effect) until I reach the runway turnoff. I use the cell telephone to call
the tower for departure too. This has worked well for the last three years.
I am more comfortable flying into busy tower controlled airports because
once the tower picks you up all the formal rules of who goes first fall
away. All you have to do is keep your eyes open, listen to the tower and
follow directions.
This year will be the first time I will be able to transmit a good voice
signal. This should make it even easier.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Perception of an "Ultralight" |
At 09:58 PM 2/11/2005, you wrote:
>This year will be the first time I will be able to transmit a good voice
>signal. This should make it even easier.
What are you doing different, now, to "transmit a good voice signal" ?
-- Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Perception of an "Ultralight" |
A lot of the confusion can be taken care of by us very small airplane
operators using the correct phraseology on the radio. As an example: I am
"Kolb 49KK" when I make all my radio calls at an uncontrolled airfield. When
I call an ATC facility I am "Kolb 49KK Experimental" for the initial contact
call and "Kolb 49KK" on all of the rest of the calls.
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
------------------
John
last year you had mentioned that there is a standard designator for aircraft
type......after ariving home i call the atc supervisor and was given this information....
when asked by atc for "aircraft type" we should use "HXP1"
To help me remember i was thinking
"H"omebuilt e"X"perimental s"P"eed "1"
so in using your example above would it be better to use "Kolb 49kk hxp1"
on the initial call then "Kolb 49kk" on additional calls? you had mentioned
that if we use the proper terminology that we would be looked on favorably....
i supose that if someone asked about the hxp1 that you could fil in the
blanks by saying "homebuilt experimental (your airspeed)"
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | preception of an ul |
dis some searching and the "P" in hxp1 stands for "piston"
"hotel xray papa one"
or hombuilt experimental piston driven slow aircraft
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | russ kinne <kinnepix(at)earthlink.net> |
At tower-controlled (and all other!) fields Kolbs and other
experimental/ultralights must mix in with "regular" traffic, and the
closer all the aircraft speeds match, the less conflicts can arise. At
least in my part of the world, normal pattern speed is 80MPH -- so it
makes sense to maintain 80MPH on down wind & base, and not reduce speed
until on short final. And of course make the first possible turnoff as
a normal courtesy.
We've all seen a powerful aircraft going as slowly as it can, and still
overhauling a low-powered Cub going as fast as it can. The thing here
is that the faster plane's pilot knows this, and will give more spacing
and/or do some gentle S-turns. It all works, He doesn't want to have to
go around either.
As to radio talk, I think saying "Experimental Ultralight-type Kolb"
would cure everything. Visually, Kolbs are considered ultralights by
those who don't know better, which seems to be most pilots. This should
identify your plane as the one they hear talking.
And visit the tower & talk to those guys sometime when they're not too
busy -- helps friendly relations all around. Or at least should!Russ
Kinne
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ Dennis Kirby ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Dennis Kirby
Subject: Kolb Tail Dolly
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Dennis.Kirby@kirtland.af.mil.02.12.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Perception of an "Ultralight" |
Hi Boyd and all,
The "HXP1" you were given is incorrect. What they are talking about is the
"Aircraft Type" that goes in block 3 on a FAA flight plan.
For an experimental aircraft that has not been assigned an identifier, the
following three codes are to be used:
HXA - Unknown Homebuilt/Experimental Spd Less Than 100
HXB - Unknown Homebuilt/Experimental Spd 100-200
HXC - Unknown Homebuilt/Experimental Spd. 200+
Some where along the line, someone has requested and an identifier for two
Kolb models have been assigned by the FAA:
KOLL - Kolb Laser
KOLT - Kolb Twinstar
The FAA does not differentiate between the Kolb Twinstar MarkII and the Kolb
Twinstar MarkIII. So you would be correct in putting KOLT in block 3 of the
FAA flight plan.
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolb Kolbra, Rotax 912UL, 708 hours
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: monument valley |
----- Original Message -----
From: "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: monument valley
> ------------------------
>
> Tom mentioned that in principle they did not want to go to mv and have
> to pay the extortion fee.....
Guys,
It is easy to stumble over a principle that in essence cures nothing
and only causes problems for your self. ( "cut off your nose to spite your
face", was one of my Mother's favorites) I personally do not like the idea
of being scalped by any Indians, however I will pay the fee if it is
necessary, BUT, Last year I was very circumspect about heights, and areas
that I flew, since we were guests. I kinda think that if I am a paying
customer then there should be a bit more lee way to fly where and how I
want. Hopefully I will not be too big a pain in anyone's butt! Five bucks
isn't very much, so I should be able to get my moneys worth.
Larry,Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rusty" <13brv3c(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | SS project for sale if anyone wants it |
Greetings,
As most of you know, I was in the process of re-working Bill Wood's old SS
for a single rotor engine. The talk of Lasers recently made me start
thinking about those, which led to the other plane that I've looked at for
years, a Sonerai. As it turns out, I just bought a Sonerai project that I
plan to convert for my single rotor test bed.
Bottom line is that I still have the SS airframe, which has been
disassembled, and stripped of fabric and Lexan. It needs to have a few
tubes replaced (too many holes drilled for trim tabs), and at least one
cracked weld repaired. The nose was smashed during hurricane Ivan, and one
of the gear legs was bent when I got the plane. I have a new nose, two new
gear legs, a 4x8 sheet of Lexan, and a new covering kit (no silver or
paint), along with some misc items like tubing, rivets, and motor mounts.
There is no engine, on instruments.
I'd like to get somewhere in the neighborhood of $10k for this, so I won't
feel like I lost too much money on this whole deal. If someone wants it,
great. Otherwise, I'll end up stashing it at the hanger, and maybe I'll
finish it some day.
Cheers,
Rusty (just don't say it Dennis)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Kolb in the Water |
I see somebody's Kolb went in the water in S Fla.
# N803?? - No floats
CBS channel 46 News - Atlanta TV
Not mine this time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
Group,
Does anyone have any experience with a KievProp? I
would like to replace the 68" two blade IVO on my
Firestar II. I am seeking the quietest prop that I can
find.
John Jung
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 2/14/2005 9:52:18 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com writes:
Does anyone have any experience with a KievProp? I
would like to replace the 68" two blade IVO on my
Firestar II. I am seeking the quietest prop that I can
find.
John Jung
We put a 70.75" 3 blade on Robert Broadwell's Mk III float plane with 912ULS.
Seems quiet [we haven't compared it to anything yet], lots of thrust, light,
& it's pretty.
Costs about the same [or a little less] than a Warp Drive.
I'd like to put one on my FS II if I had the money.
Howard Shackleford
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: First Flight |
Wade and Group,
> the only incident was 1 soft
> ground nose over resulting in the need for some
> glass work around pitot tube,
> very minor but i need input from group on a nose
> skid so that i don't repeat it.
You don't need a nose skid. Just learn to handle the
plane like all the other Kolb pilots have. If I knew
how you nosed it over, I could offer a specific
suggestion. Most of the Firestar and FireFly pilots
have nosed their's over. There isn't usually damage
and if we are lucky, no one is watching.
In my opinion the current nose cones are too much like
an egg shell. I damaged one by going over softly while
doing a 180 degree turn around a wheel. I forgot to
consider the wind direction and turned with the wind.
Currently, the inside of the nose cone on my Firestar
is reinforced with steel mesh and fiberglass to make
it less likely to be damaged. I did that 5 years ago,
after replacing a broken nose cone, and haven't nosed
it over since then.
John Jung
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | terry <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
| Subject: | Fathers Day Fly-in |
Having seen no more responses to the question of which day to have the fly-in at
Homer's on Fathers Day weekend, I think it's time to make a date for it. There
were 8
responses for that Saturday, 1 for Friday, 2 for a different weekend and 4 "will
attends". Based on that and the fact the Clara and Homer have already committed
to
that weekend, I feel the Saturday of that weekend suits the most. Impossible to
find a
date that suits everyone.
So, I will contact Homer and Clara and set the date as June 18th, with the following
day as a possible backup for bad weather. Will provide more info as we get closer
to
the time.
Hope as many of you as possible plan on attending. I know that Homer and Clara
would
appreciate your company very much!
Terry - FireFly # 95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Perception of an "Ultralight" |
Fellow Kolbers,
In a response to an email from Boyd Y, I made a mistake and am correcting
that with this post. The question was about the aircraft type codes and the
number of digits used in block 3 of the FAA flight plan.
*****************
The official list can be found in FAA pub 7340.1X, "Contractions."
Here is the link to their decode page:
http://www.faa.gov/atpubs/CNT/5-1.htm
Here is the link to Homebuilt and Experimental Aircraft that don't have a
specific type code assigned:
http://www.faa.gov/atpubs/CNT/5-3.htm
Here is the link to the whole publication:
http://www.faa.gov/atpubs/CNT/CNTHME.htm
Block 3 of the flight plan still uses 3 and 4 digit aircraft type
designations. This designator has nothing to do with radio phraseology
except when an ATC facility asks for your aircraft type.
I was incorrect when I said that the Twinstar had its own designation, it is
no longer listed in the publication but it is on the DUAT websites when you
file a flight plan. It seems that the Laser is the only Kolb with a current
type designation.
*******************
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolb Kolbra, Rotax 912UL, 708 hours
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | experimental to sport? |
Don an all,
First question: I wonder if there is anything required by way of paperwork
to change a previously certified experimental into a sport category? Don't
confuse aircraft category with the registration process. An aircraft that is
registered as "Experimental-Amateur Built" is a "N" numbered aircraft and if
it is a Kolb, already is in the "Sport Pilot Category" and nothing needs to
be done.
Second question: And...if this stuff needs to be done, can we get away with
just letting our
medical expire and continue to Fly a MK 3 for instance, that is a registered
experimental? Again, nothing needs to be done registration wise. If you have
a Recreation Pilot Certificate or higher, you already have the privileges of
a Sport Pilot Certificate, If you don't have the need for an FAA medical
then don't renew it and fly with your valid drivers license. The down side
is that you will have to fly with all the restrictions and limitation of the
Sport Pilot Certificate. You don't have to let your medical expire, you can
tear it up if you like and just use your driver's license.
Third question: Another question might come up if a person wants to buy a
exp registered
bird, and fly it under sport rules....what do you do with the N-number and
registration? The "N-number" does not need to change. I may at the old or
new owners request to either keep that particular number or to gain a new
number. If the N-numbered experimental-amateur built aircraft meets the
requirements of a sport plane, then anyone with a student sport pilot
certificate or higher can fly it, with the correct endorsements.
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolb Kolbra, Rotax 912UL, 708 hours
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: experimental to sport? |
Thx John,
Looks easier than I thought.
That brings up another question, speaking of easier....
If a fella buys a used exp that will qualify for sport pilot.....what does
he have to do to be able to do the work on it?...get that maintance license
for that aircraft ?
Or how about if you buy a wrecked bird?....does rebuilding it qualify you as
if you were the builder?
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: experimental to sport? |
I asked a bunch of questions at the Sport Pilot Seminars at Oshkosh last
summer on this subject and I agree with John.
There is one clarification I would like to make on John's answer on question
2. There aren't many down sides. If you have your private pilot license you
are trained and can continue to fly a sport plane just as you had with a
valid medical under the private pilot license. You are legally able to fly
ANY sport plane without any specific sport type training (not recommended)
but you may. You have the right to fly into controlled air space (assuming
proper equipment), fly the high performance sport planes, and can get a
check ride in most any airplane. And it seems a bunch of other things
regular SP licensed pilots can't do. This means you can get a check ride in
for example a 172 without a medical, you just can't fly it solo or pilot in
command. There might be a restriction on night flights with no medical and
some other things but this is being defined and refined as time goes bye.
Personally I have taken my last physical. If I choose to fly a spam can
again I will get a prephysical just to make sure I can still pass. Be sure
you don't start a pilot physical and expect to stop half way through. I'm
told the forms are all numbered at the doctors office and the FAA checks out
missing numbers.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: experimental to sport?
>
>
> Don an all,
>
> First question: I wonder if there is anything required by way of paperwork
> to change a previously certified experimental into a sport category? Don't
> confuse aircraft category with the registration process. An aircraft that
> is
> registered as "Experimental-Amateur Built" is a "N" numbered aircraft and
> if
> it is a Kolb, already is in the "Sport Pilot Category" and nothing needs
> to
> be done.
>
> Second question: And...if this stuff needs to be done, can we get away
> with
> just letting our
> medical expire and continue to Fly a MK 3 for instance, that is a
> registered
> experimental? Again, nothing needs to be done registration wise. If you
> have
> a Recreation Pilot Certificate or higher, you already have the privileges
> of
> a Sport Pilot Certificate, If you don't have the need for an FAA medical
> then don't renew it and fly with your valid drivers license. The down side
> is that you will have to fly with all the restrictions and limitation of
> the
> Sport Pilot Certificate. You don't have to let your medical expire, you
> can
> tear it up if you like and just use your driver's license.
>
> Third question: Another question might come up if a person wants to buy a
> exp registered
> bird, and fly it under sport rules....what do you do with the N-number and
> registration? The "N-number" does not need to change. I may at the old or
> new owners request to either keep that particular number or to gain a new
> number. If the N-numbered experimental-amateur built aircraft meets the
> requirements of a sport plane, then anyone with a student sport pilot
> certificate or higher can fly it, with the correct endorsements.
>
>
> John Williamson
> Arlington, TX
>
> Kolb Kolbra, Rotax 912UL, 708 hours
> http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rusty" <13brv3c(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | experimental to sport? |
Be sure
you don't start a pilot physical and expect to stop half way through. I'm
told the forms are all numbered at the doctors office and the FAA checks out
missing numbers.
---------------
Hi Rick, This is interesting, and it's a question that I was planning to
ask next month when I go for my 3rd class physical.
I bet your doctor could help out if a form turned up "missing". The guy I
go do is on old country doctor, and his black lab wanders around the office.
He could say his dog ate it :-)
I'm don't expect any trouble getting my medical renewed, but I sure wouldn't
do it if I didn't have the RV-3.
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rusty" <13brv3c(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | experimental to sport? |
Isn't the medical on file with the FAA and still valid with the FAA until
normal expiration date? Kirk
I've also wondered about something else. Is there a requirement to notify
the FAA of any change in your medical status? Certainly, you'd have to
notify them, and get it cleared up before you exercised private pilot
flight privileges, but if you never planned to fly as a private pilot
again, do you have to say anything?
Cheers,
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kfackler" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: experimental to sport? |
> paperwork to change a previously certified experimental into a sport
> category?
As I understand, and that's saying a lot because it's all pretty fuzzy yet,
a person who holds the SP license can fly ANY airplane that meets the
definition of LS, even if it was registered Experimental or even
certificated. Therefore, there's no "conversion" required. Similarly, if you
let your medical expire, you can still exercise the privileges of a Sport
Pilot in LS aircraft with your PP ticket.
For what it's worth...
-Ken Fackler
Kolb Mark II / A722KWF
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | experimental to sport? |
Yes the medical is on file with the FAA but you only have to carry the
paperwork for the privilege that you are exercising.
If you have a Recreational Pilot Certificate or higher and only want to
exercise the privileges of a Sport Pilot Certificate, you don't have to
carry the medical, only a valid drivers license.
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolb Kolbra, Rotax 912UL, 708 hours
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | experimental to sport? |
Don and all,
You keep mixing apples and oranges here.
Experimental-Amateur Built aircraft is one category.
Light Sport Aircraft is another category.
Special Light-Sport aircraft is another category.
Experimental-Light Sport Aircraft is another category.
You can get a repairman certificate as the builder of an
Experimental-Amateur Built aircraft.
You have to go to the approved Maintenance and Inspection courses to do the
same things on Light Sport Aircraft, Special Light-Sport aircraft and
Experimental-Light Sport Aircraft or have an A&P do the work.
Sport Pilot is a certificate.
For the operation of an aircraft that meets the definition of "Light Sport
Aircraft" the aircraft itself may be in any of the above four categories or
a standard category FAA type certificated aircraft.
Question: how about if you buy a wrecked bird?....does rebuilding it qualify
you as if you were the builder? This gets in the area of "Maybe." It will
depend on how it was registered before and if you can show the paper trail
back to the Kit Manufacture. I would talk to the FAA or my local DAR about
the specific situation to get an answer.
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolb Kolbra, Rotax 912UL, 708 hours
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: experimental to sport? |
John & all,
I've been following this discussion of the details of the sport
pilotcertificate. Confusing ain't it? I understand that if I have a
private ticket which I do, and my medical has expired, which it has, I am
legal to fly under the sport pilot's regs without doing anything except
carry my private ticket and my driver's license when I fly and be in a plane
that fits the two place, and 1250 lbs. max thing and I'm legal. Am I right
so far? I have one more question, do I have to have a current BFR in my
logbook also.
Dale Sellers
Georgia UltraStar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: experimental to sport?
>
>
> Don and all,
>
> You keep mixing apples and oranges here.
>
> Experimental-Amateur Built aircraft is one category.
> Light Sport Aircraft is another category.
> Special Light-Sport aircraft is another category.
> Experimental-Light Sport Aircraft is another category.
>
> You can get a repairman certificate as the builder of an
> Experimental-Amateur Built aircraft.
>
> You have to go to the approved Maintenance and Inspection courses to do
> the
> same things on Light Sport Aircraft, Special Light-Sport aircraft and
> Experimental-Light Sport Aircraft or have an A&P do the work.
>
> Sport Pilot is a certificate.
>
> For the operation of an aircraft that meets the definition of "Light Sport
> Aircraft" the aircraft itself may be in any of the above four categories
> or
> a standard category FAA type certificated aircraft.
>
> Question: how about if you buy a wrecked bird?....does rebuilding it
> qualify
> you as if you were the builder? This gets in the area of "Maybe." It will
> depend on how it was registered before and if you can show the paper trail
> back to the Kit Manufacture. I would talk to the FAA or my local DAR about
> the specific situation to get an answer.
>
>
> John Williamson
> Arlington, TX
>
> Kolb Kolbra, Rotax 912UL, 708 hours
> http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | experimental to sport? |
Hi Dale,
Yes, you have to have a current Flight Review within the last 24 months
logged in the logbook by an appropriately rated Instructor. There are some
exceptions to this but most of us don't qualify to use them.
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolb Kolbra, Rotax 912UL, 708 hours
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderwski" <rswiderski(at)earthlink.net> |
No personal experience, but they are high on my list of the prop I might
buy. ...Richard Swiderski
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jung
Subject: Kolb-List: KievProp
Group,
Does anyone have any experience with a KievProp? I
would like to replace the 68" two blade IVO on my
Firestar II. I am seeking the quietest prop that I can
find.
John Jung
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob and Jenn B" <tabberdd(at)hotmail.com> |
Check out www.sportpilot.org from the EAA. It will answer all these
questions and more.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: experimental to sport? |
John W, I ditto what Jung says....you are an important part of this list to
me and I know so many others.
Thank you very much for your participation...hope some day to thank you in
person.
Don Gherardini
OEM.Sales / Engineering dept.
American Honda Engines
Power Equipment Company
CortLand, Illinois
800-626-7326
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | experimental to sport? |
Ditto for me too. I met him this past October at Ronnie Smith's fly-in and
he is a class act in person as well.
John Cooley
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Don Gherardini
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: experimental to sport?
John W, I ditto what Jung says....you are an important part of this list to
me and I know so many others.
Thank you very much for your participation...hope some day to thank you in
person.
Don Gherardini
OEM.Sales / Engineering dept.
American Honda Engines
Power Equipment Company
CortLand, Illinois
800-626-7326
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: experimental to sport? |
Hey,
They don't let just any old shmuck drive them jetliners around! :-)
Denny Rowe
>
> Ditto for me too. I met him this past October at Ronnie Smith's fly-in and
> he is a class act in person as well.
>
> John Cooley
>
>
>
> John W, I ditto what Jung says....you are an important part of this list
> to
> me and I know so many others.
> Thank you very much for your participation...hope some day to thank you in
> person.
>
> Don Gherardini
> OEM.Sales / Engineering dept.
> American Honda Engines
> Power Equipment Company
> CortLand, Illinois
> 800-626-7326
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fathers Day Fly In |
Ken,
Where is Bernville, and do you know the three letter identifier for Grims
Airfield?
Denny Rowe, Mk-3
----- Original Message -----
From: "James, Ken" <KDJames(at)berkscareer.com>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Fathers Day Fly In
>
> Count me In I will drive also, my Kolb MK III is still in the very long
> construction phase!!
>
> Hope to bum a ride in a flying Kolb :0 Hint Hint. Grims Airfield is
> right
> down the road from me (o.k about 12 miles) and I can offer a overnight bed
> or two for those in need. (Then pick there brain about building)
>
> Ken James
> Bernville Pa
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom O'Hara [mailto:tohara(at)alphagraphics.com]
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Fathers Day Fly In
>
>
> If you are making up a list. Count me in. Do not own a Kolb yet, but
> perhaps by then :)
> If not I will drive down.
>
> Tom O'Hara
> Allentown, PA
>
>
> tohara(at)alphagraphics.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Anliker <manliker(at)uiuc.edu> |
| Subject: | For Sale - Electric Starter, Battery, etc. |
Very complete kit in very good condition. Includes Rotax starter, Power
Sonic battery, cables/wires (as used on a Kolb FireFly), starter switch,
installation instructions, and shipping too! More than you'll get (and for
less $$) than if buying just a new starter elsewhere. Can be used on 503 or
447. Originally purchased in 2002. Removed from a Kolb Firefly with a Rotax
447 with 70 hrs on it. Contact Mark Anliker via e-mail or at
217-898-4766. Digital pics available.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Anliker <manliker(at)uiuc.edu> |
| Subject: | For Sale - Electric Starter, Battery, etc. |
Oops...forgot something...asking $549 for the whole package as listed
above. Mark Anliker 217-898-4766.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George E. Thompson" <eagle1(at)commspeed.net> |
Just saw on the TV news of a two place "Ultralight Type" aircraft crash in Fl.
It did appear to me to be a Two place Kolb. The tube had broken off just behind
the cage. The good news tho was that both people has survived. I'm sure that
some of our Fl. friends will know who it was.
Az. Bald Eagle
________________________________________________________________________________
John,
Since I have a personal attachment to your Kolb now...glad
to see it flying again.
Can I expect another visit?
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net> |
Hi Gary,
I have to attend a CFI refresher course this weekend, but hope to have a
nice day next week to make it down to visit.
Do you a better day than any other next week?
John W.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
If you are N numbered and have an ELT, you gotta put in new batts every
24 mos...I think. I had to fer years. Even if you only test it now and
then...and only during the five mins after the hour...not fer the whole
5 mins.
The AK is a good box..I installed many in GA. Its good that it uses reg
alky D cells, and not the Expensive paks that many ELTs gotta have. By
the way, I use so-called expired ELT batts of many kinds to pwr cameras,
radios, GPS. Too good to throw away.
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kolbdriver" <Kolbdriver(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | 912 Radiator Locations |
Where have you 912 owners located the radiator when installed on a Mark III or
any Kolb. I just want some opinions to sort through before I mount mine.
Steven G.
BTW
John H., John W., John B, and Gary,
I will be able to keep up if I ever have the opportunity to join ya'll on another
trip.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Radiator Locations |
| Where have you 912 owners located the radiator when installed on a
Mark III or any Kolb. I just want some opinions to sort through
before I mount mine.
|
| Steven G.
Steven G/Gang:
My radiator was the first on a MKIII. Mounted it with the oil cooler
piggy backed on it under the engine and hung on the rear of the engine
mounts. Never had a problem since day one, a long time ago.
Look forward to having you and all the rest of the gang joining up for
another flight equal to or better than the one we had to Kitty Hawk.
That was a blast!!!
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
I recently had the oportunity to listen to William Wynn talk about Corvair
conversions. I have been interested in this conversion for quite awhile and
jumped at the chance to meet him and find out more. If anyone has this
oportunity take it. He is very knowledgeable about all things aviation and
technical. I was surprised. I thought he would just be a southern hick
selling a plans book. He is a wealth of information on engines and props and
not just book learning. he has gone out and found the answers through
experimentation and real life situations. Best thing about this is that I
think a corvair would fit on the Kolb. He claims that the Corvair will
weigh about 30 lbs more than a realisticly weighed 912. That extra 30 lb is
almost over the cg so should not be a major problem. Don't put down the
corvair because of Ralph Naders book. It is an excellent engine and can be
bought ready to install for $6500.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "alananpat" <alananpat(at)ev1.net> |
If you are using an ELT that uses "D" cell batteries, you only need to
change them by the date printed on the battery. This is a good savings in
comparison to those with a special battery pack that requires changing every
24 months.
See ya! AlananPat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: ELTs
>
> If you are N numbered and have an ELT, you gotta put in new batts every
> 24 mos...I think. I had to fer years. Even if you only test it now and
> then...and only during the five mins after the hour...not fer the whole
> 5 mins.
>
> The AK is a good box..I installed many in GA. Its good that it uses reg
> alky D cells, and not the Expensive paks that many ELTs gotta have. By
> the way, I use so-called expired ELT batts of many kinds to pwr cameras,
> radios, GPS. Too good to throw away.
>
> Bob N.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| He claims that the Corvair will
| weigh about 30 lbs more than a realisticly weighed 912. Woody
Hi Woody/Gang:
How much does this guy think a 912 weighs?
This url indicates his Corvair will weigh: "It will have an electric
starter and a small alternator and when so equipped it will weigh 225
pounds."
http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/corvair.html
Here is a spec sheet from The Corvair Authority, William Wynn:
http://www.flycorvair.com/corvair.html#Engine%20Specs
Seems the VW, Corvair, Verner, Jabiru folks all compare their stuff to
the 912. Sooner or later they will get it right. Everyone knows the
912 all up weight is 75 lbs. ;-)
john h
PS: Last time I made a comment about a Corvair engine the preacher
fired off a firey blast at me. In order to protect myself from his
wrath and the wrath of others, I shall reserve comment on the Corvair
and all other engines I know nothing about.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Another "blowed Up" Cuyuna |
Hey Kolbers,
Just thought I might throw this out there for anybody flying behind
the old Cuyuna's...I acquired an old wrecked CGS Hawk that I am in the process
of rebuilding that came with the cause of the wreck still installed...Cuyuna
UL202...the piston next to the fan was cooked . When removing the engine , the
induction bolts were finger tight ...further looking revealed that all the
head bolts were loose as well ......It would have taken less than 10 minutes to
check them all and this engine and airframe had less than 40 hours total...I
got the whole project for close to nothing ...because "everybody" knows Cuyuna's
are junk....A little preventive maintenance would have deprived me of this
project ...... Cuyuna's got another bad rap ! I intend to rebuild the Cuyuna
and use it ...I have had 2 others that were trouble free with about 200 hours
betwwen the 2 . ...I know that is not a lot compared to some of you more "experienced
" drivers .
Anybody out there have a lot of time behind Cuyuna's ? How about
a contest ?..... Who has the highest time behind a Cuyuna before it either "Blowed
Up" or was torn down for overhaul . ...Preferrably in a Kolb...but all
others will be considered....
Cuyuna ED
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob and Jenn B" <tabberdd(at)hotmail.com> |
An ELT is required for all registered fixed wing aircraft with more than one
seat unless you are performing training within a 50 mile radius. It must be
inspected at every annual and batteries changed at the expiration date. You
must be able to activate the ELT while positioned in the pilots seat, which
is why most have the remote switch to place on the panel. Hope that helps.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
When did they quit making the corvair about 1964? I had a 1960 corvair
and it ran ok but had problems with the differential. Wonder where they
are getting the engines?
Do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
They made Corvairs until 1969. The early ones (1960-1964) had a multi-piece
gasket seal between the engine and chassis that was a soup sandwich to fit
properly, so it was not unusual for mechanics to leave it out following
maintenance. Which meant that the next time you drove it on a dusty road,
the rear wheels threw dust and dirt into the engine compartment, which the
cooling fan sucked up & plastered all over the cooling fins, which killed
the airflow, made it overheat, cooked the gaskets and o-rings and then it
leaked like a sieve.
Even then it was still hard to kill - I bought a '64 convertible about 13
years ago and drove it home in that condition, then discovered it had only
partial airflow around the cylinders, no airflow through the head fins or
oil cooler at all, totally clogged with oily dirt. It got hot and ran bad
but still made the 45 minute trip home. The old guy I bought it from said
it tended to run poorly after you drove it a while... After I grubbed
several pounds of oily dirt from around all the fins and replaced the
gaskets and o-rings, it ran pretty good -
In 1965 Chevrolet went to a big one piece pop in foam gasket that fit
around the engine compartment, but by then Corvairs had a reputation for
being oil leakers and engine cookers. (Doh) There are still scads of
engines around, and as it is a simple, old technology engine, it is easy
and cheap to overhaul. Since it still has a large enthusiast base, there
are many businesses supporting it.
I thought about putting one on my MKIII, but IMO, that is way too heavy. No
way would I want a 230 pound engine sitting three feet up behind my head if
things go bad.
Besides, isn't that a lot more weight - especially in that area- than the
airframe was designed for? I think it would be hard to have two people and
ten gallons of fuel in a Corvair powered MKIII and not be up to at least
1200 pounds takeoff weight.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>When did they quit making the corvair about 1964? I had a 1960 corvair
>and it ran ok but had problems with the differential. Wonder where they
>are getting the engines?
>
>Do not
>archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another "blowed Up" Cuyuna |
| Anybody out there have a lot of time behind Cuyuna's ?
How about a contest ?..... Who has the highest time behind a Cuyuna
before it either "Blowed Up" or was torn down for overhaul .
...Preferrably in a Kolb...but all others will be considered....
|
Cuyuna ED
Morning Ed:
My first airplane engine was a Cuyuna ULII02 in my the Ultrastar.
Flew it for 385 hours. Primary problem I had with this engine was
cylinder getting loose and blowing the PTO cyl base gasket. Was my
fault because it was difficult to get to the bolts to retorque. In
order to torque them, the engine had to be dropped from the engine
mount. Back in those days I would rather fly than pull maintenance.
This resulted in pulling the engine and cyls to replace the gaskets.
Other than that, it was a great little engine.
I also put 75 hours on my buddies Cuyuna in his Ultrstar. At 10 hours
the double row crank bearing on the PTO end failed, seized the engine
at 2,500 feet. Had enough altitude to make it to a big hay field a
mile short of my airstrip. Other than the crank bearing, this little
engine was a good'un.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
I stand corrected. I had no idea the 912 only weighed 75 lbs with carbs,
exhaust, rad, oil, and water.
Hicks are everywhere trying to scam us smart folks. Don't have to be
southerners to be hicks. Just like Paris Hilton proves you don't have to be
poor to be white trash.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: corvair
>
>
> | He claims that the Corvair will
> | weigh about 30 lbs more than a realisticly weighed 912. Woody
>
> Hi Woody/Gang:
>
> How much does this guy think a 912 weighs?
>
> This url indicates his Corvair will weigh: "It will have an electric
> starter and a small alternator and when so equipped it will weigh 225
> pounds."
>
> http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/corvair.html
>
> Here is a spec sheet from The Corvair Authority, William Wynn:
>
> http://www.flycorvair.com/corvair.html#Engine%20Specs
>
> Seems the VW, Corvair, Verner, Jabiru folks all compare their stuff to
> the 912. Sooner or later they will get it right. Everyone knows the
> 912 all up weight is 75 lbs. ;-)
>
> john h
>
> PS: Last time I made a comment about a Corvair engine the preacher
> fired off a firey blast at me. In order to protect myself from his
> wrath and the wrath of others, I shall reserve comment on the Corvair
> and all other engines I know nothing about.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ray anderson <rsanoa(at)yahoo.com> |
My Rotax spec sheet says the 912 weighs 132 lbs. with starter. The only engine
used on aircraft that developed one H.P per lb. of weight is the old two stroke
McCullough weighing 75 lbs. and producing 75+ H.P.
I stand corrected. I had no idea the 912 only weighed 75 lbs with carbs,
exhaust, rad, oil, and water.
Hicks are everywhere trying to scam us smart folks. Don't have to be
southerners to be hicks. Just like Paris Hilton proves you don't have to be
poor to be white trash.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck"
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: corvair
>
>
> | He claims that the Corvair will
> | weigh about 30 lbs more than a realisticly weighed 912. Woody
>
> Hi Woody/Gang:
>
> How much does this guy think a 912 weighs?
>
> This url indicates his Corvair will weigh: "It will have an electric
> starter and a small alternator and when so equipped it will weigh 225
> pounds."
>
> http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/corvair.html
>
> Here is a spec sheet from The Corvair Authority, William Wynn:
>
> http://www.flycorvair.com/corvair.html#Engine%20Specs
>
> Seems the VW, Corvair, Verner, Jabiru folks all compare their stuff to
> the 912. Sooner or later they will get it right. Everyone knows the
> 912 all up weight is 75 lbs. ;-)
>
> john h
>
> PS: Last time I made a comment about a Corvair engine the preacher
> fired off a firey blast at me. In order to protect myself from his
> wrath and the wrath of others, I shall reserve comment on the Corvair
> and all other engines I know nothing about.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)pa.net> |
Woody,
We pulled a 912 of an airplane one time and weighed the complete package.
Its "wet" weight was 167 lb. Radiator, oil cooler, muffler, air cleaners,
oil, coolant, cables, motor mount, etc. etc. ... it all adds up.
As I recall a very basic 1800 VW we had built with 1 vertex mag weighed 155
lb., but this did not have electric start, dual ignition, muffler or
alternator.
I suspect he is correct about the CG too, the longer engine would put the
front cylinders very close to the CG of the airplane.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: corvair
>
> I recently had the oportunity to listen to William Wynn talk about
Corvair
> conversions. I have been interested in this conversion for quite awhile
and
> jumped at the chance to meet him and find out more. If anyone has this
> oportunity take it. He is very knowledgeable about all things aviation and
> technical. I was surprised. I thought he would just be a southern hick
> selling a plans book. He is a wealth of information on engines and props
and
> not just book learning. he has gone out and found the answers through
> experimentation and real life situations. Best thing about this is that I
> think a corvair would fit on the Kolb. He claims that the Corvair will
> weigh about 30 lbs more than a realisticly weighed 912. That extra 30 lb
is
> almost over the cg so should not be a major problem. Don't put down the
> corvair because of Ralph Naders book. It is an excellent engine and can be
> bought ready to install for $6500.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
I ran into the same problem, plus I just don't like that style of pin, it
is too easy to accidently open if it gets brushed against. Or removed by
the inquisitive/malicious. What I did was make my own safety rings like the
one on the end of the Quick Release Pin on the Aircraft Spruce page here.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ha/pins.html.
If you go to Lowes, Home Depot or probably any hardware store, you can buy
a spring that measures 5/8" OD, with a 1/16" diameter wire. Then go to work
with a pair of side cutters and a needle nose pliers and you can make a
half a dozen safety rings in about 15 minutes. An 8" long spring will make
a lifetime supply. Not Cad plated, but certainly spring steel. A little
harder to get on, and a lot harder to get off. As Martha Stewart would say
after she gets out of jail, "That's a good thing."
PS - never use any safety pin anywhere low enough to get plucked by grass
or a twig. Use a cotter pin instead.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>To All,
>Has anyone else noticed, but , I ordered a pack of the safety pins from
>Aircraft Spruce that are commonly used on the clevis pins that hold the
>wings on
>and the lift struts. The catalog says that they are AN416-1 mil spec cad
>plated
>spring steel but the ones I got are Stainless Steel. They clearly do not have
>the tension or the strength that the steel ones have. I called Aircraft
>Spruce
>and the girl on the phone told me I was mistaken and that I could only have
>the spring steel ones. I guess that they found a way to make Steel immune
>to a
>magnet. I doubt that a stainless one would fail but then again for an 8 cent
>part that holds your wing on why scrimp. Has anyone else seen this? Where can
>I get the real ones?
>
>Steve B
>Prepping the WetFly for Sun n Fun
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bryan green <lgreen1(at)sc.rr.com> |
Richard Pike wrote:
>
>I ran into the same problem, plus I just don't like that style of pin, it
>is too easy to accidently open if it gets brushed against. Or removed by
>the inquisitive/malicious. What I did was make my own safety rings like the
>one on the end of the Quick Release Pin on the Aircraft Spruce page here.
>
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ha/pins.html.
> I've been using the cowling safety pins in the link above with good results.
>
>
Bryan Green Elgin SC.
Firestar 377 BRS 19LBG
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Cowan <trc1917(at)direcway.com> |
just want to mention here that if anyone needs or has a use for a reverse
fan for the cuyunna engine, I have one. you can use the engine in a tractor
situation. make me a deal. I flew a Cobra with cuyunna engines for lots of
years with no problem. you are all right about having to watch and retorq
the heads and other bolts also. constant care on that engine but it would
serve you if you didnt bully it like we do our ratty-axe engines. think I
have a bunch of ole cuyunna stuff hanging around, pistons, carbs, mufflers,
stuff like that if anyone wants it. ted cowan.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rusty" <13brv3c(at)bellsouth.net> |
I doubt that a stainless one would fail but then again for an 8 cent
part that holds your wing on why scrimp. Has anyone else seen this? Where
can
I get the real ones?
Steve B
-----------------------------
(RD) Hi Steve, I just got a pack of these from Spruce, and you're right,
they're stainless. If that bothers you (doesn't bother me), then do a
Google search for AN416-1 and you'll find a number of sources. Wicks was the
only place I saw that I recognized, but I'm sure most every aircraft parts
place carries these. It would be interesting to see if you get stainless
from other sources, or if that's just what Spruce has now.
Good luck,
Rusty (Slingshot, or Sonerai-II... Can't decide)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
I have replaced all my safety pins with ring type safeties. I used them with
for years with my Weed Hopper and found them to be more reliable and much
easer to use than the Cowling Safety Pin style. This type will not be pulled
out by tall grass like the safety pin type.You can get them at any of the
ultralight part places or catalogs.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rusty" <13brv3c(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Safety Pins
>
> I doubt that a stainless one would fail but then again for an 8 cent
> part that holds your wing on why scrimp. Has anyone else seen this? Where
> can
> I get the real ones?
>
> Steve B
> -----------------------------
>
>
> (RD) Hi Steve, I just got a pack of these from Spruce, and you're right,
> they're stainless. If that bothers you (doesn't bother me), then do a
> Google search for AN416-1 and you'll find a number of sources. Wicks was
> the
> only place I saw that I recognized, but I'm sure most every aircraft parts
> place carries these. It would be interesting to see if you get stainless
> from other sources, or if that's just what Spruce has now.
>
> Good luck,
> Rusty (Slingshot, or Sonerai-II... Can't decide)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MKIII 582 prop size and Prop to Tailboom Clearance |
|
| In rest, the gap is about 3" to the tail boom. So you might add
another
| 1/2". But when it wiggles in flight, it DOES come close...
|
| Pollus
Pollus/All:
Running 72" Warp with 3/4" clearance between tailboom and prop tip.
Forget what Old Kolb called for prop clearance, 1 or 1.5". If Dennis
Souder is monitoring the List he will probably remember. I think he
is cause he just posted a comment to the Corvair engine that weighs 30
more than a 912.
I use the hardest available from Kolb supplied Lord Mounts and have no
problem with that 3/4" clearance. If I was flying any other engine, I
would also fly with the hardest Lord Mount available. Reason being,
keeps the engine from moving around so much during power changes.
Helps hold the engine in a position that is closer to what you see
when on the ground with engine off.
Recommend everyone rig their engines and props for the proper
clearance as indicated in their plans and instruction manuals from Old
and New Kolb Aircraft.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | [ William Dale Gleason ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
| From: | Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com> |
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: William Dale Gleason
Subject: Shamu blimp over Timmonsville, SC in 1991
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/williamdgleason@bellsouth.net.02.19.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
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6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
You can also get the rings at any marine supply outlet that sells supplies
for sail boats.
I have been using them on the lower strut/cage attachment point since I read
several years ago about someone taxiing through tall grass and having the
safety pin type getting snagged by the grass and pulled loose.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| You can also get the rings at any marine supply outlet that sells
supplies
| for sail boats.
Hi All:
I have been following the thread on Safety Pins and Rings since I
joined this List at the turn of the Century. No, it was even earlier
than that, Jan or Feb 1998.
I don't have to trailer or fold my airplane, so........I don't use
clevises and safety pins.
If I did fold my airplane, I would continue to use AN bolts and nyloc
nuts. Anyone ever see the difference in time between assembly and
disassembly of a Kolb using clevises verses bolts and nuts? Would be
interesting to know. Probably not more than a few seconds.
Also, by drilling lift struts and welding bushings in both ends, one
eliminates elongation of holes caused by vibration and lose clevises.
My thoughts only,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
John said
> I don't have to trailer or fold my airplane, so........I don't use
> clevises and safety pins.
>
> If I did fold my airplane, I would continue to use AN bolts and nyloc
> nuts.
John and all,
the only problem with using nyloc bolts is that they should be discarded
after they have been loosen or the bolt would have to be drilled for a
cotter key. I have been using the brass rings from a marine store since 97,
and while I do not have a great amount of time on my plane (240hrs) I do
have to take it apart each time and I have yet to have any problem with the
rings or the holes being elongated. I also do not make it a habit to fly in
rough conditions, Mostly I prefer the "velvet sky". The other stuff makes my
wife grumpy when she does the laundry. Again it is all what one likes or
will accept.
Larry, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| the only problem with using nyloc bolts is that they should be
discarded
| after they have been loosen or the bolt would have to be drilled for
a
| cotter key. | Larry, Oregon
Hi Larry/Gang:
I forget what the reg says on reusing nyloc nuts. Here's what I gauge
mine on. If I can thread the nut on the bolt and into the nyloc and
no further than a thread or two, I reuse. It ain't coming off without
a wrench. I use mine any number of times until the nyloc gets to the
point it will not do its job.
I guess it would get expensive if you used new nylocs everytime you
unfolded and flew.
Reference elongation of lift strut bolt holes:
It isn't the rough air that makes the holes elongate and where/wallow
out. It is the vibration inherent in both two and four stroke
engines, props, and air getting ruffled up a little when it flows over
the airframe. The more you fly the more they will wear.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kolbdriver" <Kolbdriver(at)bellsouth.net> |
Has anyone ever had a "standard Kolb issue safety pin" fail and come out
during flight?
I fold and trailer my plane each flight and replace the safety each year
during the annual and have had no reason to fear them. Just curious what
the stats are on them failing as they are used on Kolbs. I will seek out
the original pins instead of the SS ones. Most grades of SS fatigue
quickly.
Just my thoughts.
Still have a complete 582 engine package for sale!
Steven Green
MK III
________________________________________________________________________________
I wonder who has the most hours folding and unfolding their wings?
Do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ul15rhb(at)juno.com" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
-- snuffy(at)usol.com wrote:
I wonder who has the most hours folding and unfolding their wings?
I have 762 hours with 415 wing folds. Some of the wing folds were for setup only
and 0 hours flying after setup. The plane is stored in my garage.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
18 years flying it
Now includes pop-up blocker!
Only $14.95/month -visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up today!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Has anyone ever had a "standard Kolb issue safety pin" fail and
come out
| during flight?
| Steven Green
Steven/All:
I have never heard of a pin failing.
The primary reason we went to bolts and bushing was wear on the holes
and bolts. Bolts can be replaced, but holes can't. Besides, when I
would load and unload the wings, I didn't like to hear that thump
caused by wallowed out holes. If you don't fly much you won't wear
them out.
Have heard of folks flying without them. ;-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "H MITCHELL" <mitchmnd(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | 2/17 Mk3/912 Flight Report (Error) |
4.08 DATE_IN_FUTURE_12_24 Date: is 12 to 24 hours after Received: date
Hey gang,
I was surprised that no one noticed the error in my last report. I said my plane
had a tendency to roll to the right so I lowered the trailing edge of my left
wing. Horrors!,, that would make a right roll a lot worse. What I meant to say
was that some right stick pressure was required and lowering the trailing edge
of the left wing made the stick stay pretty well centered. Gene L. told me
about it at lunch today advising me to be ready for some e-criticism. Joke's
on him, apparently nobody read it.
Fly Safe,
Duane the plane Mitchell, Mk3/912, IVO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rusty" <13brv3c(at)bellsouth.net> |
Anyone ever see the difference in time between assembly and
disassembly of a Kolb using clevises verses bolts and nuts? Would be
interesting to know. Probably not more than a few seconds.
---------------------
Probably closer to a few minutes difference, than a few seconds.
Rusty (Slingshot versus Sonerai debate continues)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Probably closer to a few minutes difference, than a few seconds.
|
| Rusty (Slingshot versus Sonerai debate continues)
Hi Rusty/Gang:
Some of us are quicker than others.
Then some of us might take a few minutes to try to make a decision on
which nut to tighten up first.
I have never actually time myself to see how long it takes to start a
1/4" nyloc nut on a bolt and snug it up. I am sure it would only take
a few seconds. Especially is one used a cordless driver. A cordless
driver in low gear would snug them up in a flash.
I probably need to clarify my post reference reusing nyloc nuts. I
reread it after it was posted to the Kolb List and discovered I had
not done a good job of describing the operation. I should have
emphasized that finger tight nyloc without being able to run it all
the way down to the point the end of the bolt comes through the nut is
still a serviceable nyloc nut to me. Do not recommend anyone else use
this to determine serviceability of nyloc nuts. Ya'll go by the FAA
published directives.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rusty" <13brv3c(at)bellsouth.net> |
I have never actually time myself to see how long it takes to start a
1/4" nyloc nut on a bolt and snug it up. I am sure it would only take
a few seconds. Especially is one used a cordless driver. A cordless
driver in low gear would snug them up in a flash.
--------------------
(RD) Well, if you're going to use power tools... I bet a pit crew could do
it even faster :-)
I probably need to clarify my post reference reusing nyloc nuts.
-------------------
(RD) I'd have to look it up, but I thought you were allowed to reuse a
fiber nut 2 or 3 times, but I can't recall if that was a recognized safe
thing to do, or the actual FAA foolishness. I personally reuse them a few
times, UNLESS it's a flight critical item like a control surface. I've
thrown away lots of perfectly good nuts, just because it wasn't worth a few
cents to take a chance.
Cheers,
Rusty (can't be satisfied just one plane)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ray anderson <rsanoa(at)yahoo.com> |
Circle cotters are as safe as you can get and are easier to use than safety pins.
Just as fast or faster than locknuts would be an old fashioned cotter pin both
on installing and removing and a heck a lot cheaper. A pair of side cutters
would remove that size pin quickly and easily. I still have faith in the circle
cotters. My old C3 Aeroncas with the wire wing bracing (no struts) used nothing
but clevis pins and cotter pins. Never heard of a wing failure even doing
pretty violent aerobatics with them (not me).
Has anyone ever had a "standard Kolb issue safety pin" fail and come out
during flight?
I fold and trailer my plane each flight and replace the safety each year
during the annual and have had no reason to fear them. Just curious what
the stats are on them failing as they are used on Kolbs. I will seek out
the original pins instead of the SS ones. Most grades of SS fatigue
quickly.
Just my thoughts.
Still have a complete 582 engine package for sale!
Steven Green
MK III
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 2/20/2005 5:34:54 PM Eastern Standard Time,
snuffy(at)usol.com writes:
I wonder who has the most hours folding and unfolding their wings?
At our field, there is a guy who has over 450 hours on his FS II. He folds.
He can do it in 6 minutes flat [if he wants to].
Howard Shackleford
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Pearce" <rap(at)isp.com> |
Ted; A buddy of mine just bought a Quicksilver less eng. He needs the taper
hub that fits the cuyuanna eng. Would you have one too sell.
;
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Cowan" <trc1917(at)direcway.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: cuyunna
>
> just want to mention here that if anyone needs or has a use for a reverse
> fan for the cuyunna engine, I have one. you can use the engine in a
tractor
> situation. make me a deal. I flew a Cobra with cuyunna engines for lots
of
> years with no problem. you are all right about having to watch and retorq
> the heads and other bolts also. constant care on that engine but it would
> serve you if you didnt bully it like we do our ratty-axe engines. think I
> have a bunch of ole cuyunna stuff hanging around, pistons, carbs,
mufflers,
> stuff like that if anyone wants it. ted cowan.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Pearce" <rap(at)isp.com> |
I'm trying to get a fellow ultralighter in the air. Do any of you have a
tapered hub for a Cuyunna laying around that you would be willing to sell?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JIM HEFNER" <hefner_jim(at)msn.com> |
From: "Kolbdriver" <Kolbdriver(at)bellsouth.net<mailto:Kolbdriver(at)bellsouth.net>>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Safety Pins
Has anyone ever had a "standard Kolb issue safety pin" fail and come out
during flight?
I had a safety pin on the top wing attach point bolt of my Firefly apparently fail
last year. I setup my plane each time I fly and double check all safety pins
after I finish setup as part of my preflight. I use my reading glasses for
the preflight check since I don't use them during setup. I check the safety
pins to ensure the long pin part of the safety pins are bottomed in the U's of
the clip. After flying that day, only about an hour, when I was doing tear
down, I found the left top bolt had no safety pin, which gave me weak knees (for
quite a while afterward) when I found it!! At the time I was using 3 new safety
pins from Aircraft Spruce (spring steel, not SS) and one older pin that
looked pretty new. The older pin is the one that was missing. Believe me, I
now change those safety pins much more often (at least twice a year if I'm not
flying a lot). Fortunately the top attach point bolt had not moved at all,
since I assume there is a lot of constant force on them during flight. I notice
my lower strut bolts move around a lot more during flight, so I would not want
to fly without a safety pin on a lower strut attach point very long, based
on what I've observed, so I think I got lucky that the one that failed was on
the top wing attach point and not a lower strut attach point.
The idea of using the round rings on the lower struts is something I will start
doing. The lower strut attach point bolts are much easier to access, so this
should not add significant setup time and would be safer than the normal safety
pins for all the reasons that have been discussed. I setup my Firefly normally
in 8 to 10 minutes (8 when hurrying).
I use an ANR bolt and plastic loc nut on the rear tail feather guy wire attach
point. I reuse those nuts as long as there is good pressure required to install
and remove them. I change the bolt and nut once a year whether they need it
or not as part of my annual inspection and maint.
Thanks for this discussion.
Jim Hefner
Tucson, AZ
Firefly #022 187 hours - haven't counted log entries for # of setup's but others
have done many more than me. If it don't stop raining in AZ pretty soon the
safety pins might rust out if any plating is missing....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Pins and such |
> FAA regs are kinda like religion (sorry Richard),
>my 2 1/2 cents.
>Dale Sellers
>Georgia UltraStar.
Don't be sorry for my sake, there is a lot of that sort of religion around.
It's called "legalism."
But I try real hard to make sure we don't have any at our church...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
http://www.bcchapel.org/page001.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ul15rhb(at)juno.com" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
-- "JIM HEFNER" wrote:
Has anyone ever had a "standard Kolb issue safety pin" fail and come out
during flight?
Never a hint of one coming out. I use the stainless ones used for sailboats that
have the easy-start center. They overlap only a half turn, but they cannot come
loose because they would have to overcome the ring tension. The main wing
clevis pins always want to back out to the ring. If I forgot the ring, it would
come out and this would not make my day.
Ralph
Original Firestar
18 years flying it
Now includes pop-up blocker!
Only $14.95/month -visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up today!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ul15rhb(at)juno.com" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
-- "JIM HEFNER" wrote:
Has anyone ever had a "standard Kolb issue safety pin" fail and come out
during flight?
Jim and others,
I misread your post. I use a safety ring and the kit came with those safety clips.
I never wanted to use the clips from the first time I flew because I thought
about one of them getting unclipped. I bought the rings from a sailboat store
for 50 cents each. Well worth the money.
Ralph
Original Firestar
18 years flying it
Now includes pop-up blocker!
Only $14.95/month -visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up today!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
Kolbers,
I use AN castle nuts and safety rings on my Mk-3 at every location for
dissassembly that calls for clevis pins.
Gives the assurance that the safety pins won't pop open, and you only need
to tighten the nuts a tiny bit past finger tight to get the pin holes lined
up with the castles slots.
Makes the process pretty smooth.
Denny Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 Radiator Locations |
Steven,
Looking forward to it.
Gary H.
ps: I placed my radiator below the motor mounts in the rear.
Has worked just fine.
>
>
> Where have you 912 owners located the radiator when
> installed on a Mark III or any Kolb. I just want some
> opinions to sort through before I mount mine.
>
> Steven G.
>
> BTW
> John H., John W., John B, and Gary,
>
> I will be able to keep up if I ever have the opportunity
> to join ya'll on another trip.
>
>
> the Matronics Forums.
> Browse: http://www.matronics.com/browse/kolb-list _-> Browse Digests: http://www.matronics.com/digest/kolb-list
> =============
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Correcting Adverse Roll Tendancies |
We've had a little discussion in here recently but I don't remember
what the suggestions were to overcome the left roll tendency. Anybody
else?
|
| Steve Kroll
Hi Steve/Gang:
A search of the archives will produce a lot of info on roll control.
A simple method of correcting adverse roll or trimming for roll is a
piece of bungee cord and two small hose clamps. I used this method on
my MKIII. Attach the bungee to the control stick with a double wrap
loop secured with one hose clamp. Attach the other end to something
on the right side of the seat frame so it won't interfere with the
passenger's legs. With the double loop slipped all the way to the
bottom of the stick, adjust tension to neutral. You are set to go.
The more right trim you need the higher you slip the bungee up the
stick. When flying with a passenger, probably slip it all the way
down. Takes a couple minutes to install or uninstall.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 2/21/2005 7:14:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
hefner_jim(at)msn.com writes:
The idea of using the round rings on the lower struts is something I will
start doing. The lower strut attach point bolts are much easier to access, so
this should not add significant setup time and would be safer than the normal
safety pins for all the reasons that have been discussed. I setup my Firefly
normally in 8 to 10 minutes (8 when hurrying).
Do you remove the lower strut attach pins when you fold? When I used to fold
my FS II I never did- just made a PVC pipe device to hold the struts up while
folded. That would save a couple minutes.
Howard Shackleford
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | russ kinne <kinnepix(at)earthlink.net> |
In re recent talk about handling Pilot Overflow, or the
Incompressibilty of Fluids, ( esp. urine) -- this is of course a
problem in many activities.
Military planes used to use relief tubes, simple & low-tech. You could
also express your opinion of the towns youre flying over!
One of my (many) harebrained schemes was to buy a lot of
Government-surplus relief tubes & sell them to taxi drivers. Didnt
work; they just use a coffee cup, open the door & pour it out. When
flying I carried a 1-quart urinal with a funnel-spout and a SS valve.
Workt fine but was bulky. The more agile ladies could use it too, but
they preferred a Jills John.
The swordfish-spotters carried empty cardboard 1-quart milk bottles,
would fill them & then look for a plastic-basket cruiser to bomb with
them, a usually-harmless diversion . One of the bunch had a plane with
EIGHTEEN HOURS RANGE -- can you imagine that? Several times he flew
for over 17 hours, nonstop. Talk about earning your money --
I find Snapple bottles to be conveniently-sized & readily available
but they only hold 16 oz.
Any medical-supply house can sell you a condom with a tube on it,
leading to a leg-bag strapped to your calf. Uncomfortable, but it
works. You can also use a longer tube & tuck the end into your sock --
just DONT forget to take it out before you let loose! But you could
be standing over a drain talking to Miss America, & relieve yourself &
shed never even know it.
The bottom line in all this is pre-planning. If you dont drink
anything, you wont have to urinate. Not much fun though.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ray anderson <rsanoa(at)yahoo.com> |
Hospitals furnish bed ridden patients (male) with a large capacity plastic container
shaped for use lying down, or sitting up, that has a clip on the side for
hanging upright on any small horizontal tube or rail. Has a built on
snap lid that makes the contents stay put. I've used them many times and works
easily and securely. I'm sure any hospital supply house or large drug store
has them.
kinne
In re recent talk about handling Pilot Overflow, or the
Incompressibilty of Fluids, ( esp. urine) -- this is of course a
problem in many activities.
Military planes used to use relief tubes, simple & low-tech. You could
also express your opinion of the towns youre flying over!
One of my (many) harebrained schemes was to buy a lot of
Government-surplus relief tubes & sell them to taxi drivers. Didnt
work; they just use a coffee cup, open the door & pour it out. When
flying I carried a 1-quart urinal with a funnel-spout and a SS valve.
Workt fine but was bulky. The more agile ladies could use it too, but
they preferred a Jills John.
The swordfish-spotters carried empty cardboard 1-quart milk bottles,
would fill them & then look for a plastic-basket cruiser to bomb with
them, a usually-harmless diversion . One of the bunch had a plane with
EIGHTEEN HOURS RANGE -- can you imagine that? Several times he flew
for over 17 hours, nonstop. Talk about earning your money --
I find Snapple bottles to be conveniently-sized & readily available
but they only hold 16 oz.
Any medical-supply house can sell you a condom with a tube on it,
leading to a leg-bag strapped to your calf. Uncomfortable, but it
works. You can also use a longer tube & tuck the end into your sock --
just DONT forget to take it out before you let loose! But you could
be standing over a drain talking to Miss America, & relieve yourself &
shed never even know it.
The bottom line in all this is pre-planning. If you dont drink
anything, you wont have to urinate. Not much fun though.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
At 07:24 PM 2/21/2005, you wrote:
>
>Am I the only one who saw the crashed two place Kolb in Florida last week?.
>It was on the TV news and defiantly shown a two place Kolb. It said that the
>two people in the plane were not killed. Good Thing.
> I have seen no one from Florida who knows any thing about this
>accident. Speak up, We Kolb drivers need to know how to avoid this kind of
>trouble.
> Az. Bald Eagle
I saw somebody's Kolb went in the water in S Fla.
on the 13th.
# N803?? - No floats
CBS channel 46 News - Atlanta TV
Not mine this time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JIM HEFNER" <hefner_jim(at)msn.com> |
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Safety Pins
In a message dated 2/21/2005 7:14:33 AM Eastern Standard Time,
hefner_jim(at)msn.com writes:
The idea of using the round rings on the lower struts is something I will
start doing. The lower strut attach point bolts are much easier to access, so
this should not add significant setup time and would be safer than the normal
safety pins for all the reasons that have been discussed.
Do you remove the lower strut attach pins when you fold? When I used to fold
my FS II I never did- just made a PVC pipe device to hold the struts up while
folded. That would save a couple minutes.
Howard Shackleford
FS II
SC
Howard, yes I remove the lower strut attach pin when folding. I have a Firefly,
which has two struts on each side, two attach points on the wing and one attach
point at the lower strut attach point. You have to remove the lower strut
pin to fold the wings on a Firefly. Since there are two upper strut attach points
on each wing, the struts form a V, so there is nothing required to support
the struts when folded, they just ride along inside of the wing when folded.
I'm not familiar with folding a FS-II but it must be quite different than a
Firefly, assuming I'm not missing something.
Regards, Jim Hefner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net> |
To the party looking for a drive pulley for a Cuyuna,
I suggest you contact J-Bird Power Supplies, POB 476,
Kewaskum, WI 53040, 262-626-2611. I have purchased parts from them and they
seem very knowledgable abour Cuyunas as well as others. I bought a drive pulley
for a Cuyuna from them and the price was good and delivery was prompt. The
also have new and rebuilt engins of all makes and sizes and the prices are great.
For example, a Kawasaki 440, 40 h.p. for $890.
They don't have a website but they do have a catalog of regularly stocked stuff
and a they have many items that are not in the catalog. A phone call will get
you much info.
Give them a call.
Dale Sellers
Georgia UltraStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George E. Myers Jr." <gmyers(at)corridor.net> |
I would certainly like 15 to 20 of them.
Thanks
George
At 02-21-2005, you wrote:
>
>I have just found a supply house for the circle cotter pins ( the ones
>with the inner end bent for easy start) but they are sold in 100 lots. I
>have ordered 100. This of course makes them cheap. They are 3/4"dia. and
>are zinc plated steel. I will share some of them if you need them for what
>they cost plus shipping. You can see a picture and description at the link
>below. Click on line catalogue and then circle cotters.
>http://www.pivotpins.com/catalog/catidx.html
>
George E. Myers Jr.
1500 IH 35 S
San Marcos Tx.
512-353-4860
www.geohome.sytes.net/
gmyers(at)corridor.net
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ray anderson <rsanoa(at)yahoo.com> |
George,
I will send yours as soon as my shipment arrives. I'm down to only
15 available now but maybe that will help. The cost will be minimal.
"George E. Myers Jr." wrote:
I would certainly like 15 to 20 of them.
Thanks
George
At 02-21-2005, you wrote:
>
>I have just found a supply house for the circle cotter pins ( the ones
>with the inner end bent for easy start) but they are sold in 100 lots. I
>have ordered 100. This of course makes them cheap. They are 3/4"dia. and
>are zinc plated steel. I will share some of them if you need them for what
>they cost plus shipping. You can see a picture and description at the link
>below. Click on line catalogue and then circle cotters.
>http://www.pivotpins.com/catalog/catidx.html
>
George E. Myers Jr.
1500 IH 35 S
San Marcos Tx.
512-353-4860
www.geohome.sytes.net/
gmyers(at)corridor.net
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aircraft Spruce <fun_plane(at)yahoo.com> |
I noticed your posting to the Kolb group regarding
AN416-1 cowling safety pins ordered from Aircraft
Spruce, and we contacted the manufacturer to see why
we were now receiving stainless pins. We were
informed that the original spring steel cadmium plated
pins have been superceded by pins made from stainless
steel spring wire, Type 316. The safety pins Aircraft
Spruce is supplying are the current AN416-1 pins (as
superceded). We no longer have the older types
available although there still may be some available
from surplus sources. Our thanks to Steve for bringing
this matter to our attention, we will update our
catalog and website accordingly.
Jim Irwin
President, Aircraft Spruce
--- ray anderson wrote:
>
>
> George,
> I will send yours as soon as my
> shipment arrives. I'm down to only 15 available now
> but maybe that will help. The cost will be minimal.
>
>
> "George E. Myers Jr." wrote:
> Jr."
>
> I would certainly like 15 to 20 of them.
> Thanks
> George
>
> At 02-21-2005, you wrote:
>
> >
> >I have just found a supply house for the circle
> cotter pins ( the ones
> >with the inner end bent for easy start) but they
> are sold in 100 lots. I
> >have ordered 100. This of course makes them cheap.
> They are 3/4"dia. and
> >are zinc plated steel. I will share some of them if
> you need them for what
> >they cost plus shipping. You can see a picture and
> description at the link
> >below. Click on line catalogue and then circle
> cotters.
> >http://www.pivotpins.com/catalog/catidx.html
> >
>
> George E. Myers Jr.
> 1500 IH 35 S
> San Marcos Tx.
> 512-353-4860
> www.geohome.sytes.net/
> gmyers(at)corridor.net
>
>
> --
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Kolb-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
__________________________________
http://mobile.yahoo.com/maildemo
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 2/22/05 12:57:30 PM Central Standard Time,
fun_plane(at)yahoo.com writes:
> Spruce is supplying are the current AN416-1 pins (as
> superceded). We no longer have the older types
> available although there still may be some available
> from surplus sources. Our thanks to Steve for bringing
> this matter to our attention, we will update our
> catalog and website accordingly.
>
> Jim Irwin
> President, Aircraft Spruce
>
Thank you Jim for your kind reply, It is pretty impressive that you found and
responded to a small item like this. I did not mean to be a pain but I wanted
to make sure I got the right part. Thanks again for your personal attention
to detail.
Steve B
FireFly007
ACS customer since 1972
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave & Eve Pelletier" <pelletier(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Sport Pilot Medical |
Guys,
I got my 3rd Class Medical today - Finally. For those of you who don't know,
I was denied a medical a couple of years ago. I didn't worry about it because
of the driver's license medical that was supposed to come out with Sport Pilot.
As you know, when the final rule came out, they said that if you've had
a 3rd class medical revoked or denied, you need to fix that before you can use
your driver's license for a medical. OK, I jumped through all their hoops and
sent them a big package of stuff around the first of Dec. Last week I got
a letter from them saying "Our review of your medical records.....has established
that you may be granted Authorization for Special Issuance of a third-class
medical certificate......." It goes on to say that I have to retake my physical
and if they don't find anything else wrong "...an Authorization for Special
Issuance of a Medical Certification letter will be issued containing the protocol
for continued certification."
As with most government correspondence, the letter was kinda confusing. On
the one hand it sort of "undenied" my denial and that would seem like I shouldn't
have to do anything. On the other hand, it said I had to retake my medical.
I called EAA and we jawed about this for an hour. They agree that my denial
has been "undenied" by the letter, but they have also fought this battle with
FAA before and FAA says "retake the medical" so I did even tho I don't intend
to get a Private Pilot's ticket. In any case, I'm now cleared to take the
Sport Pilot test, take the practical, N number my airplane, and get an airworthiness
certificate. Arrggghhhhh! Oh well, the first hill has been climbed.
If anyone else is in this boat, I'd be glad to help in any way I can. Contact
me off line.
AzDave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Medical |
Dave,
It was my understanding that if your medical had expired or you currently
held one, you didn't have to do anything except fly a plane that qualified
as a light sport plane. There was no sport pilot's test except for a
bi-annual flight review. Was I mistaken?
Dale S.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Eve Pelletier" <pelletier(at)cableone.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Sport Pilot Medical
>
>
> Guys,
>
> I got my 3rd Class Medical today - Finally. For those of you who don't
> know, I was denied a medical a couple of years ago. I didn't worry about
> it because of the driver's license medical that was supposed to come out
> with Sport Pilot. As you know, when the final rule came out, they said
> that if you've had a 3rd class medical revoked or denied, you need to fix
> that before you can use your driver's license for a medical. OK, I jumped
> through all their hoops and sent them a big package of stuff around the
> first of Dec. Last week I got a letter from them saying "Our review of
> your medical records.....has established that you may be granted
> Authorization for Special Issuance of a third-class medical
> certificate......." It goes on to say that I have to retake my physical
> and if they don't find anything else wrong "...an Authorization for
> Special Issuance of a Medical Certification letter will be issued
> containing the protocol for continued certification."
>
> As with most government correspondence, the letter was kinda confusing.
> On the one hand it sort of "undenied" my denial and that would seem like I
> shouldn't have to do anything. On the other hand, it said I had to retake
> my medical. I called EAA and we jawed about this for an hour. They agree
> that my denial has been "undenied" by the letter, but they have also
> fought this battle with FAA before and FAA says "retake the medical" so I
> did even tho I don't intend to get a Private Pilot's ticket. In any case,
> I'm now cleared to take the Sport Pilot test, take the practical, N number
> my airplane, and get an airworthiness certificate. Arrggghhhhh! Oh well,
> the first hill has been climbed.
>
> If anyone else is in this boat, I'd be glad to help in any way I can.
> Contact me off line.
>
> AzDave
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Radiator Locations |
| It seems that it functions equally in front of and behind the
engine from
| the responses I got. | Steven
Steven G/Gang:
Well, not exactly.
The 912 is a much cooler running engine than the 912S. With the
radiator mounted up front, it will run cold most of the time unless
you run a very small radiator, or mask the normal 912 radiator.
When I was running my 912, with radiator in the rear, I had difficulty
keeping CHT above 120F. This is far to cold to be operating the 912
engine. They perform best when CHT is kept up around 180F. There is
no heat on the long intake system, and there are two intake manifolds,
to keep the temps up. My normal procedure was to by pass the oil
cooler in the winter to get engine temps up to at least 190F. Hook it
back up the following spring. Also mask portions of the radiator to
bring up CHT to around 180F.
After well over 2,000 hours operating in the same configuration, I
have no problems with my system.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)inebraska.com> |
| Subject: | 912 Radiator Locations |
I've used an oil cooler thermostat from Summit Racing. That way my oil temp
is always where it should be. Warm-ups are faster, too.
A picture is on http://www.ultrafunairsports.com/titanfinal.htm 6th
picture down.
J.D. Stewart
UltraFun AirSports, LLC
www.ultrafunairsports.com
>
> When I was running my 912, with radiator in the rear, I had difficulty
> keeping CHT above 120F. This is far to cold to be operating the 912
> engine. They perform best when CHT is kept up around 180F. There is
> no heat on the long intake system, and there are two intake manifolds,
> to keep the temps up. My normal procedure was to by pass the oil
> cooler in the winter to get engine temps up to at least 190F. Hook it
> back up the following spring. Also mask portions of the radiator to
> bring up CHT to around 180F.
>
> After well over 2,000 hours operating in the same configuration, I
> have no problems with my system.
>
> john h
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Paule" <dpaule(at)frii.com> |
Be careful with those devious little things. I use them on my sailboat to
safety the turnbuckles of the rigging, and I would routinely find that they
had worked themselves halfway out. After reading of various rigging failures
(that is, the mast came down, along with the sails, and cost several grand
to fix) I now tape them with rigging tape. They tend to stay put now;
rigging tape is pretty tenacious. But it's not suitable for removing after
flight....
I would never use those rings in any application where my life depended on
it. They are too dangerous. I've seen them part-way out too many times.
Dave Paule
Boulder, CO
FS II
============================
-- "JIM HEFNER" wrote:
Has anyone ever had a "standard Kolb issue safety pin" fail and come out
during flight?
Never a hint of one coming out. I use the stainless ones used for sailboats
that
have the easy-start center. They overlap only a half turn, but they cannot
come
loose because they would have to overcome the ring tension. The main wing
clevis pins always want to back out to the ring. If I forgot the ring, it
would
come out and this would not make my day.
Ralph
Original Firestar
18 years flying it
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Oil Thermostats |
| I've used an oil cooler thermostat from Summit Racing. That way my
oil temp
| is always where it should be. Warm-ups are faster, too.
| J.D. Stewart
Hi JD/Gang:
I did some research on engine oil thermostats a few years ago.
Finally, decided a couple wraps of gaffers tape around the radiator
was not than much problem in the winter time. I also heard from folks
that ran these thermostats that they did not bring the oil temp up to
the desired minimum of 190F. I figured it was not worth the time,
money, and effort. Plus, something else hung on the engine and
airplane.
How about some numbers on engine oil temps compared to OAT?
How many hours have you used the thermostat?
Any related problems with that system?
I'll take a look at the oil thermostat in Summit's catalog.
Thanks,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob and Jenn B" <tabberdd(at)hotmail.com> |
Just a word of caution, be careful who you tell you are doing commercial
photography in an experimental aircraft. It cannot be used for commercial
purposes. You're doing that for the fun of it, right:)
As for sitting in the right seat of a Mk II, it makes the plane roll right.
If you sit in the left seat, it rolls left. If you have the same weight in
both seats, it flies straight.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Bass" <gtb(at)commspeed.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Photo shoot |
In reference to the comments on shooting
photos from a Kolb; check out the coffee-
table books published by Adriel Heisey.
1. In the Fifth World.......
2. Under the Sun.......
His 2 books are some of the best photos
of the south west that I've ever seen and
he has done some awesome adaptations
to his plane. Try his web page at:
http://www.adrielheisey.com/
George Bass
P. O. Box 770
Camp Verde, AZ
86322
USUA #30899
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kfackler" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Antenna mounting and roll trim |
>>mounting my radio antenna to the tail boom just in front of the vertical
stab using tie wraps to hold the wire down to the boom
I did it that way too and had good results. When I had to replace the tail
boom a year ago, I took that opportunity to run it inside the tailboom,
eliminating the danger of the coax coming loose during flight. I got the
antennae from STA-Lite Aviation (www.staliteaviation.com) and it works
great. I routinely talk with pilots 30-40 miles away and on good days have
done so at 80 miles. I can frequently hear pilots on the far side of the
state, but I'm not able to talk with them.
I used John Hauck's solution to the "left roll" tendency and it works great!
I've never tried flying mine from the right seat. Now that I've redone my
panel with all the switches on the left, I wouldn't try it, but I feel
pretty sure that would eliminate the roll tendency too.
-Ken Fackler
Kolb Mark II / A722KWF
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
In response to seeing the safety pin thread I need to respond along a more
sinister line ....I once had a GA experience that high lighted the reason for
doing good preflight inspections .....It also made a big jump in my paranoia
! I had just completed a trip to Florida from Western NY (winter1995 ) in a Pa-20
Pacer I had owned for some time. Upon going to the airport a couple days
later I found a note taped to the door that read "do not fly this aircraft, cotter
pins missing right aileron". A friend had noticed my aircraft tied down and
was looking it over when he discovered the missing cotter pins. The pins
were there when I took off from my strip in NY ! I am sure of that because the
aircraft was preflighted with particular attention to those pins before the
flight.
It was a one day trip although out of my sight only for short stops ....the
moral of the story....preflight your aircraft every time before you fly . The
individual who did that deed may still be out there....It won't make any difference
if you have the "right" type of safety pin with that guy on the loose...I
haven't got the faintest clue as to what might motivate someone to do such
a thing but it did happen...I still wonder if I flew it with the missing pins
for part of the trip!
Paranoid ED in Western NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cavuontop(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Higher, farther, faster |
Gentlemen:
I've been on this list for 10 years now. And like with the various,
jobs, wives, and careers I've had in that stretch its time for me to move on.
My involvement with the Kolb company started in the early 80's when I'd drive
out to Homer's farm and look at the early open cockpit Twinstars. I think
Dennis was flying his KR-2 back then, and I was flying hang gliders off the
hill near the mental hospital at Westchester, PA.
What really cinched it for me was when Rotax came out with the dual
ignition 503, which I think was in '87. I thought that was the first thing I'd
seen on a plane of that class that actually looked like an aircraft engine.
So my Dad and I bought a Twinstar Mark II kit. I built it in my brother's
hangar in Essex, Maryland while I was living in New York City. I'd drive down
Friday night and sleep on the floor of the hangar and get up in the morning
and pop rivets until it was dark. My Dad and I put 130 hours on that plane and
then sold it when Kolb came out with the Mark III. The two of us could just
barely close the canopy on the Mark II, we are both over six feet. It was
fun flying, but if we both took a deep breath at the same time we might have
broken something.
The Mark III we subsequently built was a huge step up. And as I look
back across the history of the light aircraft business I think it was a
watershed product. With a 65 hp 582 that plane out performed a 65 hp Piper Cub
in
every category but fuel burn. 15 years down the road the Mark III classic is
still a viable product, its record is excellent, and the clever and
conservative engineering that Dennis and Homer did has stood the test of time.
But after 100 or so hours I just sold my Mark III. I took my new wife
for ONE ride. That's right-- just one-- and it scared her to death. And mind
you this is a girl who has climbed Kilimanjaro, hiked the Himalayas through
Nepal, and has a job that requires her to do stuff I couldn't do in a million
years. Anyway, what I found out later was that while she was scared to
death in the Kolb she was just fine in a Bonanza. And this has shaped my flying.
I started doing more high and fast and less and less low and slow. Anyway,
she finally made me a deal-- if I sold the Kolb I could have any plane I
wanted. And who wouldn't take that offer?
But I wasn't entirely willing to let go of my love of tubes and rag. So
I got a Bellanca Viking. Steel tube fuselage, wood wings and fabric
covering. Its got a 300 hp Continental IO-520-k. So these days its not 2 cylinders
at 1000 feet at 50 kts, its 6 cylinders at 9000 ft at 170 kts. Its just a
different kind of flying, I get my IFR clearance, couple the autopilot to the
GPS, hit the altitude hold and sit back and watch the ground go by.
I'm sure I'll be back someday, guys. Kolb flying is just too much fun
to give up altogether, but at the moment I gotta do what I gotta do. I'd like
to thank all of the contributors to this list for the help they have offered
me over the years; in particular the Good Reverend Pike and John Hauck; they
are an inspiration; and Bruce Chestnut who is doing a helluva job with the
company in a tough business climate.
Good luck guys, be safe.
Mark R. Sellers
_http://hometown.aol.com/cavuontop/viking.html_
(http://hometown.aol.com/cavuontop/viking.html)
________________________________________________________________________________
The antenna itself is a straight out of the
box Radio Shack truckers mirror antenna....
Is this a CB antenna? If it is I hope you aren't using it with an aircraft
radio.
Do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Bobrow <david(at)bobrowpalumbo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Photo shoot |
Please remove me from all your lists
On 2/23/05 6:38 AM, "Bob and Jenn B" wrote:
>
> Just a word of caution, be careful who you tell you are doing commercial
> photography in an experimental aircraft. It cannot be used for commercial
> purposes. You're doing that for the fun of it, right:)
>
> As for sitting in the right seat of a Mk II, it makes the plane roll right.
> If you sit in the left seat, it rolls left. If you have the same weight in
> both seats, it flies straight.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
david(at)bobrowpalumbo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Bobrow <david(at)bobrowpalumbo.com> |
Please remove me from all your lists
On 2/23/05 9:23 AM, "snuffy(at)usol.com" wrote:
>
> The antenna itself is a straight out of the
> box Radio Shack truckers mirror antenna....
>
> Is this a CB antenna? If it is I hope you aren't using it with an aircraft
> radio.
>
> Do not
> archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
david(at)bobrowpalumbo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | russ kinne <kinnepix(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Photo shoot |
George
Right on about Adriel Heisey's work -- he flies a Kolb but WHAT kind of
mods are there? Do you know where I can download any pix of his bird?
Russ
On Feb 23, 2005, at 8:19 AM, George Bass wrote:
>
> In reference to the comments on shooting
> photos from a Kolb; check out the coffee-
> table books published by Adriel Heisey.
>
> 1. In the Fifth World.......
> 2. Under the Sun.......
>
> His 2 books are some of the best photos
> of the south west that I've ever seen and
> he has done some awesome adaptations
> to his plane. Try his web page at:
>
> http://www.adrielheisey.com/
>
>
> George Bass
> P. O. Box 770
> Camp Verde, AZ
> 86322
>
> USUA #30899
>
>
> --
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ray anderson <rsanoa(at)yahoo.com> |
I had an experience just as scary.. Some years back living in So.Calif. I had
a beautiful Razor Back Aeronca C3 which I hangered at Torrance Airport. There
were other craft in the hanger so it was open a good deal of the day. As you know
the C3's don't have struts but are totally wire braced. I came out to fly
and fortunately didn't fail to do a pre-flight. I found every cotter pin on all
eight wire braces missing. If I hadn't done the pre-flight my day would have
probably been ruined. Regardless of how secure one feels about the condition
of your airplane there is always some one out there who gets a kick out of such
devilment.
Edward Steuber wrote: --> Kolb-List message posted
by: "Edward Steuber"
In response to seeing the safety pin thread I need to respond along a more sinister
line ....I once had a GA experience that high lighted the reason for doing
good preflight inspections .....It also made a big jump in my paranoia ! I had
just completed a trip to Florida from Western NY (winter1995 ) in a Pa-20 Pacer
I had owned for some time. Upon going to the airport a couple days later
I found a note taped to the door that read "do not fly this aircraft, cotter pins
missing right aileron". A friend had noticed my aircraft tied down and was
looking it over when he discovered the missing cotter pins. The pins were there
when I took off from my strip in NY ! I am sure of that because the aircraft
was preflighted with particular attention to those pins before the flight.
It was a one day trip although out of my sight only for short stops ....the moral
of the story....preflight your aircraft every time before you fly . The individual
who did that deed may still be out there....It won't make any difference
if you have the "right" type of safety pin with that guy on the loose...I haven't
got the faintest clue as to what might motivate someone to do such a thing
but it did happen...I still wonder if I flew it with the missing pins for
part of the trip!
Paranoid ED in Western NY
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)inebraska.com> |
| Subject: | Engine Oil Thermostats |
>
> | I've used an oil cooler thermostat from Summit Racing. That way my
> oil temp
> | is always where it should be. Warm-ups are faster, too.
> | J.D. Stewart
>
> Hi JD/Gang:
>
> I did some research on engine oil thermostats a few years ago.
> Finally, decided a couple wraps of gaffers tape around the radiator
> was not than much problem in the winter time. I also heard from folks
> that ran these thermostats that they did not bring the oil temp up to
> the desired minimum of 190F. I figured it was not worth the time,
> money, and effort. Plus, something else hung on the engine and
> airplane.
Yeah, 4 more connections to possibly leak. Haven't had any, though.
> How about some numbers on engine oil temps compared to OAT?
I've run down to zero degrees, and the temps will always get up to 180+.
I've occasionally run into the 220+ range in 90+ degrees OAT, but a
thermostat isn't going to make any difference on the top end of temps
anyway. That's more of a cooler capacity. My first one had the cooler on
the back side of the radiator. My current configuration has the oil cooler
in front, but I haven't flown in warm weather yet (first flight was
Thanksgiving).
> How many hours have you used the thermostat?
185 hours on the first plane, and 10 on my current one.
> Any related problems with that system?
None.
J.D.
> I'll take a look at the oil thermostat in Summit's catalog.
>
> Thanks,
>
> john h
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Bass" <gtb(at)commspeed.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Photo shoot |
Russ;
All the mods I've seen on Adriel's plane are
for the benefit of his passion..... photography.
He built a "pod" that occupies the entire area
of the 2nd seat and houses all his equipment
in this pod (as well as some on the outside of
it. A very nice, and somewhat aerodynamic
structure that seems to serve him well.
I took a couple pix of it awhile back, so I've
included a pic with this note.
George Bass
P. O. Box 770
Camp Verde, AZ
86322
USUA #30899
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | russ kinne <kinnepix(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Photo shoot |
Many thanx for your reply -- but there's no pic!
On Feb 23, 2005, at 12:29 PM, George Bass wrote:
>
> Russ;
>
> All the mods I've seen on Adriel's plane are
> for the benefit of his passion..... photography.
>
> He built a "pod" that occupies the entire area
> of the 2nd seat and houses all his equipment
> in this pod (as well as some on the outside of
> it. A very nice, and somewhat aerodynamic
> structure that seems to serve him well.
>
> I took a couple pix of it awhile back, so I've
> included a pic with this note.
>
> George Bass
> P. O. Box 770
> Camp Verde, AZ
> 86322
>
> USUA #30899
>
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Bass" <gtb(at)commspeed.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Photo shoot |
Sorry Russ, I forgot that the list method is to strip
anything other than the text. I'm sending the pix
on to you direct.
George Bass
P. O. Box 770
Camp Verde, AZ
86322
USUA #30899
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Photo shoot |
| Many thanx for your reply -- but there's no pic!
| > Russ
Russ/Gang:
Try contacting Adriel direct. Bet he would be glad to share some pics
of his bird.
Hate to admit it, but there is quit a bit of "Hauck" in Adriel's
Twinstar. Bro Jim has overhauled the fuselage for Adriel on two
occassions. Adriel belongs to that group of Kolber's that have been
very lucky.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bryan green <lgreen1(at)sc.rr.com> |
I have a friend that has used one on his Challenger for years with his
Icom and it works great.
Bryan Green Elgin SC
Firestar 377 BRS 19LBG
David Bobrow wrote:
>
>Please remove me from all your lists
>
>On 2/23/05 9:23 AM, "snuffy(at)usol.com" wrote:
>
>
>
>>
>>The antenna itself is a straight out of the
>>box Radio Shack truckers mirror antenna....
>>
>>Is this a CB antenna? If it is I hope you aren't using it with an aircraft
>>radio.
>>
>>Do not
>>archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>david(at)bobrowpalumbo.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Firestar Gear Leg Sockets |
| Well, this past fall I "hard landed" my Firestar and
| bent the landing leg sockets.
Hi Dwight/All:
I am guessing the gear legs on the Origianal Firestar were inserted to
about the halfway point in the gear leg socket. I sheared a gear leg
socket on my Firestar while landing from a high stall. Took out the
entire tube cluster at the bottom of the socket. Was a real mess. To
solve this problem, the next set of gear legs I made were inserted all
the way into the socket until they bottomed out at the intersection.
This distributed the load all along the socket and never had that
problem again.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flykolb" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | new Kolb web page |
Morning Kolbers
I just uploaded my new web page. It's just a beginning and doesn't compare to some
of the others by Kolb owners but it's a start!
I will be adding to it as fast as I can and hope it gets better and better. One
interesting feature is the use of videos which can also be added to emails as
well as to web pages.
Best viewed with Internet Explorer. http://jimskolb.com
Jim
Mark III
Charlotte, NC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new Kolb web page |
| Best viewed with Internet Explorer. http://jimskolb.com
|
| Jim
Hi Jim/Gang:
Looks like a great beginning. The video isa novel idea.
Please publish the coordinates for your airstrip. I haven't flown in
the Charlotte area in many years, but one never knows.
One of these days I want to get over that way, visit you, and also
visit my friends at the JAARS compound and airstrip in Waxhaw, NC.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flykolb" <flykolb(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new Kolb web page |
John,
Thanks for the encouragement.
The field I use is:
FAA Identifier: 4NC8
Lat/Long: 35-25-20.5040N / 080-37-14.2430W
35-25.341733N / 080-37.237383W
35.4223622 / -80.6206231
(estimated)
Elevation: 600 ft. / 183 m (estimated)
Variation: 05W (1985)
From city: 1 mile SE of CONCORD, NC
Zip code: 28027
It's a grass strip about 2000' long. Usual approach is from the south and
land on runway 33 but runway 15 is as good if the wind favors it. Everyone
welcome. Gas station and K-Mart nearby. Also for NASCAR fans, it is near
Lowe's Speedway. Just be aware of the Charlotte Class B and the Concord
Airport's airspace.
Lots of other grass strips near by too.
JAARS is a great place!
I welcome all kolbers to stop by.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: new Kolb web page
>
> | Best viewed with Internet Explorer. http://jimskolb.com
> |
> | Jim
>
> Hi Jim/Gang:
>
> Looks like a great beginning. The video isa novel idea.
>
> Please publish the coordinates for your airstrip. I haven't flown in
> the Charlotte area in many years, but one never knows.
>
> One of these days I want to get over that way, visit you, and also
> visit my friends at the JAARS compound and airstrip in Waxhaw, NC.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Q Radio Shack Trucker Antenna |
| "I have a friend that has used one on his Challenger for years with
his
| Icom and it works great."
What is the length of the antenna and the length of the coax?
That has a lot to do with how well a radio transmits. They'll receive
on a coat hanger wire.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Matuszczak" <mmatuszczak(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar Gear Leg |
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Firestar Gear Leg Sockets
>
>
> | Well, this past fall I "hard landed" my Firestar and
> | bent the landing leg sockets.
>
> Hi Dwight/All:
>
> I am guessing the gear legs on the Origianal Firestar were inserted to
> about the halfway point in the gear leg socket. I sheared a gear leg
> socket on my Firestar while landing from a high stall. Took out the
> entire tube cluster at the bottom of the socket. Was a real mess. To
> solve this problem, the next set of gear legs I made were inserted all
> the way into the socket until they bottomed out at the intersection.
> This distributed the load all along the socket and never had that
> problem again.
>
> john h
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Matuszczak" <mmatuszczak(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar Gear Leg ,Rt main spar,prop :( |
I did a little more than the gear yesterday. Did a base leg that was in a
brisk downwind. Lost lift and the right gear, rt. wing, prop, and bent the
main cage. The airport crew on the scene shook their heads and asked, are
you sure your are not hurt. I stated quickly, sure I am. I killed my bird
and dinged my pride. Physically though, I was unscratched. One TOUGH little
bird. Flying time will now be fixing time.
Lessons learned: Downwind IS downwind, not base with a downwind!!!
MMatuszczak ,Was an FSII 400hrs
Palm Coast, FL.
PS anyone have a few extra parts to spare.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Firestar Gear Leg Sockets
>
>
> | Well, this past fall I "hard landed" my Firestar and
> | bent the landing leg sockets.
>
> Hi Dwight/All:
>
> I am guessing the gear legs on the Origianal Firestar were inserted to
> about the halfway point in the gear leg socket. I sheared a gear leg
> socket on my Firestar while landing from a high stall. Took out the
> entire tube cluster at the bottom of the socket. Was a real mess. To
> solve this problem, the next set of gear legs I made were inserted all
> the way into the socket until they bottomed out at the intersection.
> This distributed the load all along the socket and never had that
> problem again.
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | russ kinne <kinnepix(at)earthlink.net> |
Doesn't anyone use an SWR meter anymore to adjust antenna length &
'feedback'?
Radio Shack even used to carry them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Here is a home made antenna made with RS parts that cost less than $10 and
works great.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Probably would have been better with the link in it... duh
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg9.htm
Here is a home made antenna made with RS parts that cost less than $10 and
works great.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar Gear Leg ,Rt main spar,prop :( |
In a message dated 2/24/2005 5:33:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mmatuszczak(at)cfl.rr.com writes:
I did a little more than the gear yesterday. Did a base leg that was in a
brisk downwind. Lost lift and the right gear,
Was your FS II kit produced prior to '97? If so, your gear legs may be the
short ones which can break the gear leg socket [like mine did] pretty easily.
The leg should go into the socket about 5 or 6" past the bolt hole [more than
an inch or two].
Howard Shackleford
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar Gear Leg ,Rt main spar,prop :( |
In a message dated 2/24/2005 5:33:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mmatuszczak(at)cfl.rr.com writes:
MMatuszczak ,Was an FSII 400hrs
Palm Coast, FL.
PS anyone have a few extra parts to spare.
I will soon have a professionally rebuilt cage available.
I am at Trenton, SC.
Howard Shackleford
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <williamdgleason(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Precision Propellers |
I would like to know if anyone is still using Precision Propellers 3 blade wood
prop. I think the old
Kolb Co. used one for awhile on their prototype Mk II. Would there be a noticable
overall improvement
if Ichanged to a composite type?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderwski" <rswiderski(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Precision Propellers |
William,
It's hard to say, I & a buddy of mine have used them for hundreds of
hours & were delighted with them. The company was first rate. I heard they
changed hands so I'm not sure how they compare to the original out of Vernal
Utah. If yours was anything like ours, I can't see how you would get a lot
of performance gain. If you have the soft urethane leading edge protection,
I don't think you will gain any degree of "toughness". You might find some
weight savings. ....Richard Swiderski
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
williamdgleason(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: Kolb-List: Precision Propellers
I would like to know if anyone is still using Precision Propellers 3
blade wood prop. I think the old
Kolb Co. used one for awhile on their prototype Mk II. Would there be a
noticable overall improvement
if Ichanged to a composite type?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Pierzina <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Ground looping tendencies |
Hey Guys,
Below is a message that I sent to Kolb.....I don't understand WHY
they don't look into the problem of their planes ground looping tendencies......You
guys come up with answers for the problem....Why can't they "adapt somebodys
solution" and be done with it.....
Maybe they could get Homer involved with the revision ? Why wouldn't
they want to fix this MAJOR problem.....
Gotta Fly...
Mike in Do Not
Archive
SNIP>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Hi,
I'm ready to taxi test my Firestar II, The FAA wants me to have the weight
in the front half of the CG...so I had to put 16 1/2 lbs in the nose.....
I'm always hearing about people standing their plane on it's nose...and with
this weight at the front of mine for the first flight (then I can take it out)
really makes me worry that it could do that , So I'm going to make a "ground
loop hoop" ( I don't know what you call them)
Anyway, what my point is....Why....don't you guys RE-position the landing gear
to get rid of this problem..... I've also heard that lenghtening the legs helps....
I think your dropping the ball by ignoring this MAJOR problem...
Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN
FSII / N381PM
My Web Site:
http://www.geocities.com/planecrazzzy/Planecrazzzy.html
Sometimes you just have to take the leap and build your wings on the way down...
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground looping tendencies |
> Below is a message that I sent to Kolb.....I don't
understand WHY they don't look into the problem of their planes ground
looping tendencies......You guys come up with answers for the problem....Why
can't they "adapt somebodys solution" and be done with it.....
>
Mike
Mike/All:
Maybe have the terminology of your problem incorrectly stated. I think most
of us will agree the Firestar does not have a "ground loop" problem. It may
have a tendancy to nose over if adequate pilot input is not closely
monitored. Homer designed his aircraft to be docile ground handlers rather
than "true" tail draggers (which are prone to ground looping). He puts most
of the weight on the main gear. This produces an aircraft that drives
around on the ground like a fork lift. One must be sound asleep at the
stick to ground loop a standard configured Kolb.
On the other hand, increasing the amount of weight on the tailwheel by
moving the main gear forward will produce a Kolb that does not have a
tendancy to nose over, but produces a Kolb that has a tendancy to ground
loop. It is a tradeoff. Can't have one without the other.
Homer designed his aircraft with the low time pilot in mind. Foremost in
his mind was to come up with an airplane that was safe as it could be for an
inexperienced pilot. I think he did that. One of the reasons for short
gear legs and a lot of incidence in the wings is to make the airplane gain
additional airspeed to takeoff and land in a level attitude. This helps
prevent stalls.
I don't know of but one other Kolb that has modified main gear like the gear
on my MKIII. We moved the main gear 8" forward, which increased tail wheel
weight to aprx 100 lbs. This keeps the tail wheel on the ground under heavy
braking, engine run up, off field landings, mud, tall grass, sand, etc.
However, until one becomes proficient flying my MKIII, he will have his
hands full staying ahead of the airplane on the ground. I use a lot of
differential braking in addition to rudder to maintain directional control
on the ground. Once adjusted to this setup, it is a piece of cake. I
really like mine.
I think if you try to stay ahead of your Firestar on the ground, by keeping
the stick full back, being gentle on throttle application, watching for high
tailwind conditions, you will be successful in keeping your nose off the
ground without "training wheels (skid)".
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ul15rhb(at)juno.com" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ground looping tendencies |
Mike,
There is no problem with Homer's planes in ground looping once you are experienced
with the plane. I tipped it on its nose a few times in the early days, but
haven't done that in many years. It's taildragger with a light tail and best
way to keep from nosing over is to remember to keep that tail on the ground as
long as you can during a takeoff. I use the short takeoff procedure by putting
the stick all the way back and then putting it forward as soon as the wheels
break ground. Be careful here, as you could stall very quickly should you not
put that stick forward fast enough. On landing in a crosswind, you want to get
that tail on the ground as soon as you lose flying speed. It's all in the timing.
Too soon, you balloon, and too late, and a crosswind will weathervane you
off the runway and an over correction could cause a ground loop. Practice, practice.
This is the only way you are going to keep from nosing it over.
And if you think the late model Firestars have a problem with nosing over, try
flying an Original. They are lighter yet on the tail with a straight landing gear
leg. The new model legs are canted forward with less of a tendency to nose
over.
Once you've got the technique down, you wouldn't want to fly anything else. Why?
The light weight on the tail is adapted better for rough fields and ski flying
in the winter because there is no need for a tail ski. The tail simply floats
over the ice and snow. This is what you want as there is less maintenance on
the tailwheel assembly. I've had the same tailwheel and fiberglass tail rod
for most of the 18 years flying this little engineering marvel.
Ralph
Original Firestar
18 years flying it
-- Mike Pierzina wrote:
Hey Guys,
Below is a message that I sent to Kolb.....I don't understand WHY
they don't look into the problem of their planes ground looping tendencies......You
guys come up with answers for the problem....Why can't they "adapt somebodys
solution" and be done with it.....
Maybe they could get Homer involved with the revision ? Why wouldn't
they want to fix this MAJOR problem.....
Gotta Fly...
Mike in Do Not
Archive
SNIP>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Hi,
I'm ready to taxi test my Firestar II, The FAA wants me to have the weight
in the front half of the CG...so I had to put 16 1/2 lbs in the nose.....
I'm always hearing about people standing their plane on it's nose...and with
this weight at the front of mine for the first flight (then I can take it out)
really makes me worry that it could do that , So I'm going to make a "ground
loop hoop" ( I don't know what you call them)
Anyway, what my point is....Why....don't you guys RE-position the landing gear
to get rid of this problem..... I've also heard that lenghtening the legs helps....
I think your dropping the ball by ignoring this MAJOR problem...
Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN
FSII / N381PM
My Web Site:
http://www.geocities.com/planecrazzzy/Planecrazzzy.html
Sometimes you just have to take the leap and build your wings on the way down...
---------------------------------
Now includes pop-up blocker!
Only $14.95/month -visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up today!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
The solution is very simple you could make a 1/4 wave
antenna and mount it on your plane. They are very simple to construct I
could send you a diagram and the proper length.
-----------------
i have heard a lot of good responses to this question..... but one thing has not
been mentioned...... in the coment " i will send you the legnth " needs
to be added upon.... each piece of wire and each piece of coax has a different
"velosity factor" unless you are working with the same piece of wire the
antenna legnth would have to be cut diferenly.... to say i will send you the
legnth would get you close,,,, and propably very close...... but the best way
to cut the antenna to match the frequency is to make it long and then use a
swr meter and cut small measurments untill it is corect.
i am going from memory and if i am wrong i will gladly be corected.
speed of light 300,000,000 meters per sec. devided by frequency of the center
of the tx band... 127,500,000 gives you a full wave legnth.... devide
by 4 to get a 1/4 wave legnth.... multiplied by the velosity factor. gives
the antenna legnth... i hope i did that corectly.
300 / 127.5 / 4 * velosity factor will give you somewhere just
short of .59 meters.... unless you know the vewlosity factor just cut long to
start with and trim to best swr with a meter.
boyd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Precision Propellers |
I would like to know if anyone is still using Precision Propellers 3
blade wood
prop. I think the old
Kolb Co. used one for awhile on their prototype Mk II. Would there be a
noticable
overall improvement
if Ichanged to a composite type?
i used the Precision Propellers out of vernal ut when i first built my
mkIII... i had the urilight leading edge protection..... and still had a
problem when a forign object hit the prop tip about 6 inches from the
tip.... it all came apart.... when i rebuilt i put on a warp drive prop
and gained 4 to 5 mph.... in discussions with others at the local airport
i was told that the new owners of Precision Propellers ( moved to airizona i
think they said ) is not making them as well as the old company in utah
did..... that is someones impression and i could not verify it. but i
can verify the performance diverence between the old Precision Propellers
and the warp dirve prop
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Matuszczak" <mmatuszczak(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar Gear main spar,prop :( |
Just uncovered the cage and rt wing. Cage is bent in front of the rt. gear
socket. Rt. wing needs major help I'm going to have someone who rebuilds AC
look at the damage and give me their opinion on reweld of the cage. I may
need just a wing or it if more extensive i maybe interested in an FSII that
is parted out.
I would like more info on that bird in Cananda. I'll keep in mind that cage.
The gear leg did go up into the socket about 5".
Thanks for the input and the help!!
MMatuszczak a broken FSII
----- Original Message -----
From: <HShack(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Firestar Gear Leg ,Rt main spar,prop :(
>
> In a message dated 2/24/2005 5:33:07 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> mmatuszczak(at)cfl.rr.com writes:
> MMatuszczak ,Was an FSII 400hrs
> Palm Coast, FL.
>
> PS anyone have a few extra parts to spare.
> I will soon have a professionally rebuilt cage available.
>
> I am at Trenton, SC.
>
> Howard Shackleford
> FS II
> SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar Gear main spar,prop :( |
> I would like more info on that bird in Cananda.
Was just informed today that the guy has sold it.....Kirk
Do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderwski" <rswiderski(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Precision Propellers |
Hey Boyd,
What was your "foreign object"? Do you recall the model prop you
had? And was your urethane leading edge the earlier hard material or the
later soft material? The original company did a lot of R&D & their props
were constantly evolving. His later props were significantly more advanced.
The old man was working on a symitar constant speed version just before he
died & his son took over. I guess the son sold the business. My last
Precision prop was the MT version & its leading edge was very soft. You
could dent it in with your finger nail & it would return to normal after a
few minutes. The soft material absorbs the shock & keeps the prop from
shattering. I left a 7/16" socket on the engine & it stuck the prop at full
run up, left a dent in the prop that was easily repaired. Rain & grass did
not hurt it. ...Richard Swiderski
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of b young
Subject: Kolb-List: Precision Propellers
I would like to know if anyone is still using Precision Propellers 3
blade wood
prop. I think the old
Kolb Co. used one for awhile on their prototype Mk II. Would there be a
noticable
overall improvement
if Ichanged to a composite type?
i used the Precision Propellers out of vernal ut when i first built my
mkIII... i had the urilight leading edge protection..... and still had a
problem when a forign object hit the prop tip about 6 inches from the
tip.... it all came apart.... when i rebuilt i put on a warp drive prop
and gained 4 to 5 mph.... in discussions with others at the local airport
i was told that the new owners of Precision Propellers ( moved to airizona i
think they said ) is not making them as well as the old company in utah
did..... that is someones impression and i could not verify it. but i
can verify the performance diverence between the old Precision Propellers
and the warp dirve prop
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Pierzina <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Taxi was the worry |
Hi Jeremy/Guys,
I said I had to put 16 lbs in the nose for the first flight
and from then on I'm having to explain that my plane ISN"T tailheavy.....
I'm in the Aft range of the CG , but from what I've read on "the list" so are
alot of Kolb owners...Nothing wrong with it...
I've got NO PROBLEM with flying the thing with the CG in the forward half of
the CG...
by the way their reason for this is:
"This will reduce the possibility of instability during approach to
a stall and enhance recovery from one" ( right out of the advisory circular
)
This has all been a concern about TAXI with the added nose weight , when (some)
people already have had trouble with NOSING OVER in a aft CG range
That's when I started thinking ....why don't they fix this problem......Which
John Haulk Explained VERY WELL (Thanks John ! )
Denny, You wrote that your skid hoop is 7" from the bottom of the cage....
Holy Cow, I just measured the one that I made today....it's 13 1/2 " from
the bottom of the cage.....
Earlier I pulled a string from the bottom of the tire , to the bottom of
the nose cone, and the hoop will (would) hit with the nose 8" from the ground....
I figured I wanted to catch it before it got too far out of control and gained
leverage....
I hope I didn't make it too big....?
Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN
SNIP>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Mike,
The only sensible reason (this being the FAA sensible is probably a
stretch...) for wanting the first flights of a homebuilt with the CG in
the forward half of the CG range is that they will be more stable in
pitch there. Ignore the aircraft type, peculiar habits, etc... this is
an FAA blanket rule. Most inspectors ignore it, but it looks like you
found a "good" one. Now in defense of the FAA, if you go do some
research, most first flight incidents that are not mechanical (fuel
starve, something wasn't bolted right...) are related to some form of
pilot unfamiliarity. This is an obvious reason and the reason that
mortal pilots dread the first flight...they don't know what to expect.
Also homebuilts are typically more pitch sensitive, especially compared
to GA trainers. So requesting the first flight be done with the CG set
in the forward end of the range is a way of at least making it as pitch
stable as possible for the first flight. Once some familiarity is
achieved, you start moving the CG back till it feels squirrely and back
off...
My Web Site:
http://www.geocities.com/planecrazzzy/Planecrazzzy.html
Sometimes you just have to take the leap and build your wings on the way down...
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Ultrastar redrive |
Fellow Kolbers,
Does anyone know of a sourse for a cog belt reduction drive that fits the Cuyuna
UL-02 engine on an Ultrastar. The ratio is 1.96:1. I managed to piece together
an original US redrive through the help of a friend and J-Bird Power Products
but it uses two poly-v belts and could slip. I would rather have a cog belt
version. Any help is appreciated.
Dale Sellers
Georgia UltraStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Emailing: plane001 |
0.44 FORGED_OUTLOOK_TAGS Outlook can't send HTML in this format
Here is a pix of my bird. I'm very proud of it. Much, much fun and looks good
too.
Dale Sellers
Georgis UltraStar
plane001
to determine how attachments are handled.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net> |
Sorry,
I forgot the list strips attachments off emails but there are several pix of my
US in the photoshare section.
Dale Sellers
Georgia UltraStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Cowan <trc1917(at)direcway.com> |
I enjoyed reading all the clips about the ground looping ? of the poor
little firestar series. I flew my little 'white lightning' for over seven
years and have perservered the embarassment of nose-overs many times. It
really makes you look good when you are strapped in with your tail high in
the air and wondering how to get out of the plane and get it back on its
tail without further adue. I have never had a ground loop with the
exception of vering off into a field from being pushed by the wind (Yeah,
that's what happened). Learn from your mistakes. Now, if you want an
exciting ride on the ground, take a SlingShot for a ride. Long legs, high
off the ground, short boom, full caster wheel. Now, that is a ground loop
machine. I have ground looped mine at up to thirty-five miles an hour. It
will spin around like a top at any given time. I curbed most of its
tendencies by modifing the tail wheel not to break until about seventy
percent turn. Stengthened the tail wheel springs and learned to "stay ahead
of the ball". I can still loose it but not as frequently as I used to. I
learned that if you spin it in front of a crowd, just go around a couple
more times and act like you are showing off. Gotta save face the best you
can. I put up with this business cause this is the best flying little plane
on the Kolb market. This little 22 foot wing cuts through the carbage up
there like a hot knife. Lands on a dime, very short, handles well in cross
wind, goes like a bat outa hell and is one of the fastest buggers you can
buy for its size and weight. The best part is it handles like a dream, very
nimble, would loop and roll up there in a heartbeat if you wanted to. Love
the little bugger. Sooooo, next time you think about a little ground loop,
just think about a 19 foot boom, instead of 21 foot, a 22 foot wing instead
of 27 or 32 foot and sitting up there about four feet off the ground with a
monster on your head pushing you sideways. By the way, my little "Greezed
Lightn'n" flys hands off, no twist, turn or dive. Cant say that for the
little firestar. Just sounding off for the good ole Kolb Company's ability
to kit a great plane. Too bad it has a limited market. I dont fly people,
just bags, extra gas and -- away I go.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "PATRICK LADD" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: No CG problem here |
During flight testing, I had as much as 32 pounds in the nose cone of the
Kolbra to find what the forward CG limit really was.>>
Hi John,
Thats interesting. Why do you want to know?
The C of G is just a matter of sticking the a/c on some scales and doing
some calculations. If that falls within the range specified by the kit
manufacturer surely thats it.
If you want to add lead fore and aft to find out at what point you run out
of elevator authority thats all right I suppose. Having established that you
have to approach at 100 mph to enable you to flare if you have 56lbs of
weight in the nose, then what? Its not something that you are likely to want
to do. I hope.
Cheers
Pat
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | pollus <pollus(at)fornerod.nl> |
This mailinglist indeed is Old Scool in a vegetarian sort of way. There
is an alternative I tried not that long ago, but found myself being the
only one on the entire list.
Maybe we should use both: http://www.wingsforum.com/ for the messages
that could do with some graphics, and this list for non graphic
enhanced discussions like the ones about.. errr... unrinals...
I men, if you have to leave this list for Photoshare you might as well
leave it for Wingsforum, which feels a bit more like it belongs to this
century.
Anyway: just a thought on sunday. By the way if you enjoy Old Scool I
have this tip for you:
Curious after seeing The Aviator I just downloaded the 1930 Howard
Hughes film Hells Angels (oops, does the MPAA has a Dutch branch?). I'd
say Gentlemen, start your P2P browser en go get it! The story sucks,
but the flying is AWSOME!
Regards! Pollus
Op 27-feb-05 om 9:18 heeft Dale Sellers het volgende geschreven:
>
> Sorry,
> I forgot the list strips attachments off emails but there are several
> pix of my US in the photoshare section.
>
> Dale Sellers
> Georgia UltraStar
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: ground loop |
Mike,
If you are having trouble keeping your plane straight while taxiing on hard
surface, check main wheel camber and toe in. It is important that the main
wheels point a forward path parallel to the tail tube and lean out a little
at the top with the plane in the loaded condition. With main wheel toe in
and wheels that lean in a little at the top, you can expect to be very busy
on the rudder pedals.
Been there and done that.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderwski" <rswiderski(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Ultrastar redrive |
Dale,
The poly-v that you have is actually a very efficient redrive. With
much less tension required than compared to v-belts, they didn't stress the
crankshaft nearly as much & were not prone to slipping. That unit you have
though is susceptible to having a crack form where there is hole drilled at
the end of the slot that allows the Al. to clamp around the cam for
tightening the belt. Mine never did, but other's have, so just keep an eye
on it. ...Richard Swiderski
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Sellers
Subject: Kolb-List: Ultrastar redrive
Fellow Kolbers,
Does anyone know of a sourse for a cog belt reduction drive that fits the
Cuyuna UL-02 engine on an Ultrastar. The ratio is 1.96:1. I managed to
piece together an original US redrive through the help of a friend and
J-Bird Power Products but it uses two poly-v belts and could slip. I would
rather have a cog belt version. Any help is appreciated.
Dale Sellers
Georgia UltraStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt(at)kilocharlie.us> |
| Subject: | Taxi was the worry |
Hi Jeremy/Guys,
I said I had to put 16 lbs in the nose for the
first flight and from then on I'm having to explain that my plane ISN"T
tailheavy..... I'm in the Aft range of the CG , but from what I've read
on "the list" so are alot of Kolb owners...Nothing wrong with it...
Hey Mike,
Your first message on the subject misconstrued the terms of "CG" and
"noseover" and your "huffy" about having to keep explaining your
troubles? Remember bud, everyone doesn't read this list in "REAL" time,
some of us read it a bit delayed...
One of your messages states you are building your training wheel but,
and I copy from your previous message...
" Now , on to WHY the front half of the CG range for the "FIRST"
flight.....
First of all , I haven't gotten to the point where an inspector has
looked at my plane.....
I've still been getting my paperwork to pass FAA
Remember when I said my FAA guy was a REAL #&%$@"
...sounds like you didn't know why AC90-89A says what it says and I
politely explained it!!! And even agreed with you that your inspector
was being..."difficult"
Anyway...sounds like you got it all figured out...except that Mrs.
Congeniality award.
...some dad-gum manners go a long way buddy!!!
Happy friggin' first flight and I hope you keep the nose off the ground.
Jeremy Casey
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | No CG problem here |
This is not how it is done. First you have to find what the power-off stall
> speed is and determine what the fastest speed acceptable to you is for a
> lift-off speed, typically 1.2 to 1.3 Vso. If you can't get the airplane in
> the air with full elevator travel before that speed, you have to decrease
> the added weight in the nose to a point where you can lift the nose. The
> hole point of finding the forward CG limit is so you don't have to fly an
> approach at 100 mph, but I would rather look at it as not having to
> accelerate to 100 mph before I can get airborne.
John,
How did you determine the aft CG? Kirk
Do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Pierzina <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Pictures of my new Nose Skid Hoop |
Hey Guys,
Got it painted and on the plane now.....
http://www.wingsforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=429#429
How's it look???
Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN
My Web Site:
http://www.geocities.com/planecrazzzy/Planecrazzzy.html
Sometimes you just have to take the leap and build your wings on the way down...
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | No CG problem here |
> It was not very fun at when I found the aft limit. I had to use the
engine
> rpm to get out of the stall since the elevator was up against the stop.
Thanks John, probably not a good way for a low time pilot to do it.
Do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave & Eve Pelletier" <pelletier(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pictures of my new Nose Skid Hoop |
......and the plane looks Grrrrrreat. I checked out every one of your pics.
Thanks for the entertainment.
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Pierzina" <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Pictures of my new Nose Skid Hoop
>
> Hey Guys,
> Got it painted and on the plane now.....
>
> http://www.wingsforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=429#429
>
>
> How's it look???
> Gotta Fly...
> Mike in
> MN
>
>
> My Web Site:
> http://www.geocities.com/planecrazzzy/Planecrazzzy.html
>
>
> Sometimes you just have to take the leap and build your wings on the way
> down...
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George T. Alexander, Jr." <gtalexander(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Pictures of my new Nose Skid Hoop |
Mike:
With that new super size Nose Skid Hoop, you might be able to reduce that
16.5#'s you were going to put up front by about 10#'s.
George
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Pierzina
Subject: Kolb-List: Pictures of my new Nose Skid Hoop
Hey Guys,
Got it painted and on the plane now.....
http://www.wingsforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=429#429
How's it look???
Gotta Fly...
Mike in
MN
My Web Site:
http://www.geocities.com/planecrazzzy/Planecrazzzy.html
Sometimes you just have to take the leap and build your wings on the way
down...
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ultrastar redrive |
Thanks Richard. If you say it's true then I believe it. I placed a piece
of 1 1/4" steel angle mounted under the rear engine attach bolts and the
other side presses tightly against the back if the main bracket and it is a
higher contact point to help support the top portion of the bracket. I
didn't attach it to the bracket cause I didn't want to be drilling holes.
Ever have any trouble with the bearings in the large pulley?
Thanks,
Dale Sellers
Georgia UltraStar
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Swiderwski" <rswiderski(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Ultrastar redrive
>
>
> Dale,
> The poly-v that you have is actually a very efficient redrive.
> With
> much less tension required than compared to v-belts, they didn't stress
> the
> crankshaft nearly as much & were not prone to slipping. That unit you
> have
> though is susceptible to having a crack form where there is hole drilled
> at
> the end of the slot that allows the Al. to clamp around the cam for
> tightening the belt. Mine never did, but other's have, so just keep an
> eye
> on it. ...Richard Swiderski
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Sellers
> To: Kolb List
> Subject: Kolb-List: Ultrastar redrive
>
>
> Fellow Kolbers,
> Does anyone know of a sourse for a cog belt reduction drive that fits the
> Cuyuna UL-02 engine on an Ultrastar. The ratio is 1.96:1. I managed to
> piece together an original US redrive through the help of a friend and
> J-Bird Power Products but it uses two poly-v belts and could slip. I
> would
> rather have a cog belt version. Any help is appreciated.
>
> Dale Sellers
> Georgia UltraStar
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rusty" <13brv3c(at)bellsouth.net> |
learned that if you spin it in front of a crowd, just go around a couple
more times and act like you are showing off. Gotta save face the best you
can.
-----------------
That's a good idea, but sad you've had to perfect this technique. I only
put about 60 hours on my original SS, but never had it nose over, or "ground
loop".
I did install the full swivel tail wheel after about the first 20-30 hours,
and had some entertaining problems with that. Usually, you install a full
swivel such that it still allows full rudder travel before breaking free.
The SS geometry didn't allow that, so I figured I'd just have to live with
it. On the first few flights, everything went fine, right up until I was
turning off the runway, then around it would go. Of course I was only doing
about 5 mph, so no big deal, but it was pretty entertaining to the folks at
the grass strip where I was based :-)
FWIW, I plan to make the current SS immune to this silliness.
Cheers,
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderwski" <rswiderski(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Ultrastar redrive |
Dale,
I had no problems with the redrive in the 50hrs I used it. I put a
Rotax B drive on the Cuyuna to swing a 60" prop & sold the poly-V.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Sellers
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ultrastar redrive
Thanks Richard. If you say it's true then I believe it. I placed a piece
of 1 1/4" steel angle mounted under the rear engine attach bolts and the
other side presses tightly against the back if the main bracket and it is a
higher contact point to help support the top portion of the bracket. I
didn't attach it to the bracket cause I didn't want to be drilling holes.
Ever have any trouble with the bearings in the large pulley?
Thanks,
Dale Sellers
Georgia UltraStar
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Swiderwski" <rswiderski(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Ultrastar redrive
>
>
> Dale,
> The poly-v that you have is actually a very efficient redrive.
> With
> much less tension required than compared to v-belts, they didn't stress
> the
> crankshaft nearly as much & were not prone to slipping. That unit you
> have
> though is susceptible to having a crack form where there is hole drilled
> at
> the end of the slot that allows the Al. to clamp around the cam for
> tightening the belt. Mine never did, but other's have, so just keep an
> eye
> on it. ...Richard Swiderski
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dale Sellers
> To: Kolb List
> Subject: Kolb-List: Ultrastar redrive
>
>
> Fellow Kolbers,
> Does anyone know of a sourse for a cog belt reduction drive that fits the
> Cuyuna UL-02 engine on an Ultrastar. The ratio is 1.96:1. I managed to
> piece together an original US redrive through the help of a friend and
> J-Bird Power Products but it uses two poly-v belts and could slip. I
> would
> rather have a cog belt version. Any help is appreciated.
>
> Dale Sellers
> Georgia UltraStar
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kfackler" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Looking for wheel pants |
I have 6.00 x 6 x 17" tires on my Mark II. I'm interested in finding some
wheel pants that will work with these size wheels. Anyone on the List got a
pair they're looking to sell?
-Ken Fackler
Kolb Mark II / A722KWF
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderwski" <rswiderski(at)earthlink.net> |
Hey Rusty,
I've had enough humility building with that stupid wheel. Too many
times at public airports if I put too much rudder input on the ground, I'd
just turn & helplessly turn in circles, mostly this happened as I would line
up for take-off in a stiff cross wind. Before she flies again I aim to fix
that full swivel break away. I haven't taken it apart yet, if you or others
have the fix already, how about saving us some embarrassment?
Regarding the longer nose cone installation, I just drilled through
the old rivet holes & up thru the top of the tube on both cross over tubes,
put the nose cone on, & drilled back down thru the top & on thru the nose
cone with a 0.039" bit, then bolted it with #6 stainless bolts. I used #6-32
bolts for the top/sides as well with a aluminum backing plate on the
fiberglass. Now I can take the nose cone off easily. I have a 13 lb battery
mounted in front & had to raise the rudder return spring support to clear
battery. Next I will be remaking a swing down instrument panel that sticks
out about 5" closer to pilot. Then I need to install crank scraper; wire
harness for engine management computers install
intercoolers & same for radiator. That
should get me close to flying again. I still have a couple months of
recertification for the new federal standards for teachers, then I should be
able to start on my neglected ugly duckling. ...Richard Swiderski
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rusty
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: re: ground loop
learned that if you spin it in front of a crowd, just go around a couple
more times and act like you are showing off. Gotta save face the best you
can.
-----------------
That's a good idea, but sad you've had to perfect this technique. I only
put about 60 hours on my original SS, but never had it nose over, or "ground
loop".
I did install the full swivel tail wheel after about the first 20-30 hours,
and had some entertaining problems with that. Usually, you install a full
swivel such that it still allows full rudder travel before breaking free.
The SS geometry didn't allow that, so I figured I'd just have to live with
it. On the first few flights, everything went fine, right up until I was
turning off the runway, then around it would go. Of course I was only doing
about 5 mph, so no big deal, but it was pretty entertaining to the folks at
the grass strip where I was based :-)
FWIW, I plan to make the current SS immune to this silliness.
Cheers,
Rusty
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | The Kuffels <kuffel(at)cyberport.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Q (CB antenna for aircraft use) |
<<>>
As always, things are a little more complex than anticipated.
This type of antenna is called a quarter-wave whip. It is half
of a Half-wave dipole with the missing half (quarter) created by
a mirror effect (the ground plane). It turns out, if this type
of antenna is resonant (fancy way of saying works well) at
frequency "f" then it also works at "three f" and "five f" and
"seven f" and so on. Now five times the CB frequency of 27MHz is
135MHz which is in the aircraft communication band. In other
words, it is not surprising if a CB antenna works well with an
aircraft comm radio.
Still, I would go with the Radio shack $10 homebuilt antenna or
Boyd Young's coaxial dipole. Forgot to mention to Boyd about a
possible improvement to his antenna which can be terms the
vertical coaxial dipole. Strip a whole bunch of outer insulation
off the end of your coax. Fold the outer flexible shield over
the coax to form an inline dipole (half the shield and half the
just exposed inner conductor. Trim the conductor and shield in
quarter inch lengths for best (lowest) SWR. This last step might
get tricky because of the different velocity factors between the
inner conductor and exposed braid. Sounds like a perfect Ham
radio project.
Tom Kuffel
Whitefish, MT
Building Original FireStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pictures of my new Nose Skid Hoop |
Mike,
I hate to see people create their own problems trying
to fix something that ain't broke.
After looking at your nose skid picture, I think you
may be creating a problem. Have you lifted the tail to
the flying position (9 degree) and measured the ground
clearance?
John Jung
__________________________________
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
Dale,
ZDE in Indiana has Cog belt drives for the UL 202 but in 2.5 to 1 ratio.....I
use either a 3 blade ground adjustable IVO or Warp....A 2 blade seems
to make a resonance that you can't get rid of and seems to cavitate due to the
higher pitch recquired for the 50 inch diameter on the Ultrastar....took a long
time and $$$$ to figure out but now I have a hot rod....too fast ! Check
Photo Share and I have a picture posted of the set-up or I can send you one...
Ed
in Western NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cog belt drive |
Ed,
I talked to Zerkle and he said he was considering having some redrives made
for sale but doesn't have any now. He got all the stock that 2si had and
has already slod them all. I'd like a pic of your setup. Thanks.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Cog belt drive
>
>
> Dale,
> ZDE in Indiana has Cog belt drives for the UL 202 but in 2.5 to 1
> ratio.....I use either a 3 blade ground adjustable IVO or Warp....A 2
> blade seems to make a resonance that you can't get rid of and seems to
> cavitate due to the higher pitch recquired for the 50 inch diameter on the
> Ultrastar....took a long time and $$$$ to figure out but now I have a hot
> rod....too fast ! Check Photo Share and I have a picture posted of the
> set-up or I can send you one...
>
> Ed in Western NY
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "PATRICK LADD" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
I just downloaded the 1930 Howard
Hughes film Hells Angels>>
Hi,
I remember seeing that film at the camp cinema (hah!) when I was posted to
the wilds of Yorkshire in 1947.
I believe it was the only film Ben Lyons made as he was always making
allusions to it when his radio (and later TV) show Life with the Lyons in
which he starred with Bebe Daniels to great acclaim in the 50`s.
Wasn`t there a story that the buyer of the planes for that film got such a
good deal, one free for every ten he bought or similar, that he acquired
nearly every spare plane on the market?
Cheers
Pat
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rusty" <13brv3c(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | full swivel tailwheels was ground loop |
I've had enough humility building with that stupid wheel. Too many
times at public airports if I put too much rudder input on the ground, I'd
just turn & helplessly turn in circles, mostly this happened as I would line
up for take-off in a stiff cross wind. Before she flies again I aim to fix
that full swivel break away. I haven't taken it apart yet, if you or others
have the fix already, how about saving us some embarrassment?
----------------------
(RD)
Hey, no extra charge for the overswivel wheel Richard :-)
I don't believe you can modify the wheel assembly to break out at a
different angle, but there might be a difference between manufacturers. Kolb
didn't sell the full swivel wheel when I installed the one on your SS. That
wheel came from Spruce, and was bored out to fit the spring. The wheel on
the current SS came with the kit I believe, but it appears to be the exact
same wheel that you have. The wheel that comes from Van's is different,
which might explain why I've never had a problem setting up an RV tailwheel.
I made a note to check the breakout angle to see it it's different from the
one on the SS. If not, then it must just be a geometry issue. Perhaps the
Van's wheel has a longer control arm, so the wheel just doesn't turn as far
when you turn the rudder. I'll check and let you know.
Cheers,
Rusty (remind me if I forget)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: full swivel tailwheels with ground loop |
I have the optional full swivel tail wheel that New Kolb sells now. I had to
do some trial and error to get mine right. When I 1st installed it the wheel
wouldn't swing enough to break to full swivel. I then lengthen the chains
between the rudder and the tail wheel bell crank enough that the wheel would
break loose at full rudder stop with just some one wheel braking. This
worked ok till I ran into some high cross winds a few times. I found the
springs that came with the kit would stretch enough so that wheel would
swivel and break loose even with full opposite rudder. I had to ride one
wheel brake with full opposite rudder to taxi straight. Later I drilled the
tail wheel bell crank with extra holes so that I could adjust the ratio
between the rudder bell crank and the tail wheel bell crank. Then I changed
to compression springs and adjusted the chains taunt. It is now adjusted so
that the tail wheel will not break loose till I'm right at the limit of
right or left rudder. With the chains taunt I get very precise directional
control and when the wind blows I can push in some opposite rudder and the
tail wheel will never break to swivel. Granted the wind may push a skidding
tail wheel around a bit but you will not be doing those 360 plus degree
turns. Oh one more thing that tail wheel bell crank is made from some real
hard steel you may need to buy a special drill bit to drill through that
nasty stuff.
My $.02 worth
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rusty" <13brv3c(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: full swivel tailwheels was ground loop
>
> I've had enough humility building with that stupid wheel. Too many
> times at public airports if I put too much rudder input on the ground, I'd
> just turn & helplessly turn in circles, mostly this happened as I would
> line
> up for take-off in a stiff cross wind. Before she flies again I aim to
> fix
> that full swivel break away. I haven't taken it apart yet, if you or
> others
> have the fix already, how about saving us some embarrassment?
> ----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Pearce" <rap(at)isp.com> |
I just received the prototype amphibious floats today that Kolb had on
their factory plane at Osk this last summer. I also received my new 912S. It
was snowing pretty hard and was cold so I didn't uncrate they. I'm about ready
to put on the long handles and the polar suit and go out to the hanger and uncrate
the floats. Worst than a kid at Christmas. Had a nice talk with Steve Boetto
Sat.(Float designer) Since the floats and plane together have never been
on water I will have a little testing to do. Really looking foward to this summer
looks like it will be a busy one.
Looks like I'm going to have to get my sea plane rating this summer. Does
any one know of some one around the Kansas,Oklahoma or Missouri area that
they would recommend.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Spats... |
Spats are wheel covers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
Dale,
Just sent the pics of the cog belt drive on my modified Ultrastar to your
e-mail .....I do have a CGS belt drive that came off the CGS Hawk I am rebuilding.
I got the whole set-up with a 3 blade precision prop that was undamaged
when the engine quit and the pilot made a mess of the left wing and cage....It
is a 6 V-belt system that came off the UL 202 . I was going to put it on
E-bay but will take $150 plus shipping...The total time on the aircraft was about
50 hours since built in the 80's and I do know the seller who was a friend
of the owner so I am reasonably sure it is correct ......(sounds similar to
what the saleman said who sold me my last used car)...
Honest ED in Western NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2/17 Mk3/912 Flight Report (Error) |
In a message dated 2/20/2005 8:02:40 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
mitchmnd(at)msn.com writes:
Hey gang,
I was surprised that no one noticed the error in my last report. I said my
plane had a tendency to roll to the right so I lowered the trailing edge of my
left wing. Horrors!,, that would make a right roll a lot worse. What I meant
to say was that some right stick pressure was required and lowering the
trailing edge of the left wing made the stick stay pretty well centered. Gene
L.
told me about it at lunch today advising me to be ready for some e-criticism.
Joke's on him, apparently nobody read it.
Fly Safe,
Duane the plane Mitchell, Mk3/912, IVO
I read it Mitch, but somehow I concluded you were really talking about
reflexing instead of moving the whole trailing edge......but knowing you....I
knew
you would do it "right".
yer bud in The Villages
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
Russ/all
There are spats which we in the USA call wheel pants. There are spades which
are as Lee says are things some aerobatic airplanes have to lighten the
control forces for ailerons. and there are aileron counter weights which are
all different things for different purposes.
My $.01 worth
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "russ kinne" <kinnepix(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Spats...
>
> Those "things that hang down" from the aelirons are counterweights --
> control surfaces must be balanced to avoid flutter. They also catch
> some wind & tend to lighten the control-stick forces.
>
> On Mar 1, 2005, at 8:05 AM, Creech, Lee (Local Govt) wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Methinks those are "spades" . . . They aerodynamically balance the
>> ailerons.
>>
>>
>> Lee
>> Firestar II
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net> |
Ed,
Thanks for the pix. What is the ratio of the drive you have?
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Belt drives
>
>
> Dale,
> Just sent the pics of the cog belt drive on my modified Ultrastar
> to your e-mail .....I do have a CGS belt drive that came off the CGS
> Hawk I am rebuilding. I got the whole set-up with a 3 blade precision prop
> that was undamaged when the engine quit and the pilot made a mess of the
> left wing and cage....It is a 6 V-belt system that came off the UL 202 . I
> was going to put it on E-bay but will take $150 plus shipping...The total
> time on the aircraft was about 50 hours since built in the 80's and I do
> know the seller who was a friend of the owner so I am reasonably sure it
> is correct ......(sounds similar to what the saleman said who sold me my
> last used car)...
>
> Honest ED in Western NY
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Cracked windscreens |
Kolb Fliers,
I need help.
Has anyone figured out a way to fasten the polycarbonate to the steel tube
frame of a Kolb cockpit in a fashion that holds up to several hundred hours
of flying?
I seem to be going backwards, my first windows lasted 500 hours, the second
set lasted 200 hours and this last set has lasted only 6 hours. Each time I
have used aluminum rivets to attach the plastic with nothing between it and
the fabric covered tubes.
Any help will sure be appreciated.
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolb Kolbra, Rotax 912UL, 714 hours
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked windscreens |
| Has anyone figured out a way to fasten the polycarbonate to the
steel tube
| frame of a Kolb cockpit in a fashion that holds up to several
hundred hours
| of flying?
| John Williamson
Hi John W/Gents:
Don't know if we have any ladies on the Kolb List or not. Maybe I
should have addressed ladies and gents.
I drill and pop mine, John. No special way of doing it. Sometimes
I'll get some tiny stress fractures going out from the rivet holes
over a long period of time.
My problem with lexan/polycarbonate is gasoline. You got a remedy for
keeping gas off the lexan? I ruined new lexan on left door and
quarter window in Alaska when the fuel fill hose I was using popped
off the can and splashed on the glass. Instant scrap. Made me want
to sit down and cry. Did a quick repair with gaffer's tape and it is
still on there since last July. ;-) Was going to replace the door
glass and quarter window before flying this year, but changed my mind.
Think I will put a quick patch/splice on it to replace the small area
that got zapped by auto gas, and drive on.
Am ready to get this flying season going. Looking forward to Lakeland
and MV and Moab and Bryce Canyon and Alvord and Rigby, Idaho, plus
Colorado and all the rest of the neat places the little Kolb is going
to carry me this summer. Let's get it on!
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderwski" <rswiderski(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Cracked windscreens |
John,
After experiencing cracking on mine, I enlarged the holes & that
seemed to do it, maybe a small flat washer between tube & polycarbonate
would work better still? ...Richard Swiderski
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Williamson
Subject: Kolb-List: Cracked windscreens
Kolb Fliers,
I need help.
Has anyone figured out a way to fasten the polycarbonate to the steel tube
frame of a Kolb cockpit in a fashion that holds up to several hundred hours
of flying?
I seem to be going backwards, my first windows lasted 500 hours, the second
set lasted 200 hours and this last set has lasted only 6 hours. Each time I
have used aluminum rivets to attach the plastic with nothing between it and
the fabric covered tubes.
Any help will sure be appreciated.
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolb Kolbra, Rotax 912UL, 714 hours
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
I believe they were the white things gentlemen wore around their shoes
and ankles back in the olden days when Lar was young and the earth was
starting to cool.
>
>
> Funny I thought spats were a type of collar men wore
> at the turn of the century.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked windscreens |
I have not had the experience yet and am making this up as I go. Try some
double sided foam tape between the windshield and frame as well as enlarging
the holes. Should stop the vibrations that may be causing the poly to crack.
Lexan is harder to crack but scratches easier.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Cracked windscreens
>
> Kolb Fliers,
>
> I need help.
>
> Has anyone figured out a way to fasten the polycarbonate to the steel tube
> frame of a Kolb cockpit in a fashion that holds up to several hundred
hours
> of flying?
>
> I seem to be going backwards, my first windows lasted 500 hours, the
second
> set lasted 200 hours and this last set has lasted only 6 hours. Each time
I
> have used aluminum rivets to attach the plastic with nothing between it
and
> the fabric covered tubes.
>
> Any help will sure be appreciated.
>
>
> John Williamson
> Arlington, TX
>
> Kolb Kolbra, Rotax 912UL, 714 hours
> http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
the olden days when Lar was young and the earth was
> starting to cool.
Hehehehe......good un Woody......you southern guys got a sense uh
humor......
Do no archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked windscreens |
| Should stop the vibrations that may be causing the poly to crack.
| Lexan is harder to crack but scratches easier. Woody
Woody of Windsor/Gang:
Polycarbonate is Lexan, I theennkk!
john h
DO NOT ARCHVE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked windscreens |
John Williamson wrote:
>
>Kolb Fliers,
>
>I need help.
>
>Has anyone figured out a way to fasten the polycarbonate to the steel tube
>frame of a Kolb cockpit in a fashion that holds up to several hundred hours
>of flying?
>
>I seem to be going backwards, my first windows lasted 500 hours, the second
>set lasted 200 hours and this last set has lasted only 6 hours. Each time I
>have used aluminum rivets to attach the plastic with nothing between it and
>the fabric covered tubes.
>
>Any help will sure be appreciated.
>
>
>John Williamson
>Arlington, TX
>
I have no idea whether you can adapt this to a Kolb, but have a look:
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040515213437823
http://www.sikaindustry.com/ipd-marine-window-295
http://www.rv8.ch/gallery/view_photo.php?set_albumName=Interlaken04&id=DSC01822
The adhesives are variations on Sikaflex 295UV or SemWeld from 3M.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked windscreens |
>
>Kolb Fliers,
>
>I need help.
>
>I seem to be going backwards, my first windows lasted 500 hours, the second
>set lasted 200 hours and this last set has lasted only 6 hours. Each time I
>have used aluminum rivets to attach the plastic with nothing between it and
>the fabric covered tubes.
>
John,
Enlarge the holes in the lexan. As a pop rivet mandrel is pulled, the rivet crushes
and expands into the hole. This places the lexan in tension around the
hole. With time it will crack. To determine the best oversize, make some tests
using a long narrow piece of scrap lexan. Drill an 1/8 inch hole in toward
one end and pop rivet it to a piece of scrap. Then try to rotate the strip around
the rivet. Drill out the rivet and re drill the hole in the lexan 1/64 of
and inch larger. Repeat the process until there is no noticeable reduction
in the torque to rotate the lexan strip. At this point you have found the oversize
at which the aluminum rivet does not put the lexan hole surface in tension.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kfackler" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Ruined lexan and gaffer tape |
> to sit down and cry. Did a quick repair with gaffer's tape
John:
What is gaffer's tape and how did you use it to repair lexan damaged by
gasoline?
-Ken Fackler
Kolb Mark II / A722KWF
Rochester MI
ethods."
>
> Reg,
> Fred F.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ruined lexan and gaffer tape |
| What is gaffer's tape and how did you use it to repair lexan
damaged by
| gasoline?
|
| -Ken Fackler
Hi Ken/Gang:
Gaffer's tape is what "roadies" use to secure their sound and light
cables to the floor when they set up of shows on the road, i.e., rock
concerts, Willie Nelson, etc. It is strong, yet removes easily.
Also, does not leave residue. I do not know where to buy it. I got a
couple rolls from a local friend that works at the Civic Center. Need
to find him and see if I can scrounge some more. I kept one roll and
shipped the other roll, florescent yellow, to my buddy in Wiseman,
Alaska. He is about 75 miles north of the Arctic Circle. Runs a 125
mile trap line during the winter. He uses it to do something to his
snow machine and also wraps the handle of his ax so he can easily find
it when dropped in the snow.
It is also good for placing a couple wraps around the radiator to keep
the CHT and engine oil temps up where they belong. Cheap thermostat.
;-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked windscreens |
In replacing several Cessna windscreens, especially on models with 4
bangers, I sleeve the driven rivets with a very short (same as screen
thickness) piece of electrical sleeving, that fits over the rivet and
clears the hole. Of course you have to drill the plexi a little
oversize, but certainly got rid of the cracking.
Bon N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked windscreens |
Yah, Richard, you may be right. Mine hasn't any flying hours, (vibration)
but lots and lots of heating/cooling cycles, and not a single crack. I,
too, enlarged the holes to allow for expansion. A couple of 1/8" holes for
alignment, and the rest 3/16". Used the wide headed aluminum rivets. I had
thought of running a strip of Poly-Fiber's anti-chafing stickum tape under
the lexan, but can't remember if I actually did it. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Swiderwski" <rswiderski(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Cracked windscreens
>
>
> John,
> After experiencing cracking on mine, I enlarged the holes & that
> seemed to do it, maybe a small flat washer between tube & polycarbonate
> would work better still? ...Richard Swiderski
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Williamson
> To: Kolb List
> Subject: Kolb-List: Cracked windscreens
>
>
>
> Kolb Fliers,
>
> I need help.
>
> Has anyone figured out a way to fasten the polycarbonate to the steel tube
> frame of a Kolb cockpit in a fashion that holds up to several hundred
> hours
> of flying?
>
> I seem to be going backwards, my first windows lasted 500 hours, the
> second
> set lasted 200 hours and this last set has lasted only 6 hours. Each time
> I
> have used aluminum rivets to attach the plastic with nothing between it
> and
> the fabric covered tubes.
>
> Any help will sure be appreciated.
>
>
> John Williamson
> Arlington, TX
>
> Kolb Kolbra, Rotax 912UL, 714 hours
> http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked windscreens |
Re: why didn't I use shrink tubing?
Shrink tubing costs a lot more, and I didn't want to do anything to
change the temper of the driven rivets.
But fair idea.
Bob N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ruined lexan and gaffer tape |
The A/V guys at the hotel just use various widths and colors of duct
tape......also known as 200 mph tape by drag racers. :-)
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Ruined lexan and gaffer tape
>
> | What is gaffer's tape and how did you use it to repair lexan
> damaged by
> | gasoline?
> |
> | -Ken Fackler
>
>
> Hi Ken/Gang:
>
> Gaffer's tape is what "roadies" use to secure their sound and light
> cables to the floor when they set up of shows on the road, i.e., rock
> concerts, Willie Nelson, etc. It is strong, yet removes easily.
> Also, does not leave residue. I do not know where to buy it. I got a
> couple rolls from a local friend that works at the Civic Center. Need
> to find him and see if I can scrounge some more. I kept one roll and
> shipped the other roll, florescent yellow, to my buddy in Wiseman,
> Alaska. He is about 75 miles north of the Arctic Circle. Runs a 125
> mile trap line during the winter. He uses it to do something to his
> snow machine and also wraps the handle of his ax so he can easily find
> it when dropped in the snow.
>
> It is also good for placing a couple wraps around the radiator to keep
> the CHT and engine oil temps up where they belong. Cheap thermostat.
> ;-)
>
> john h
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ul15rhb(at)juno.com" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked windscreens |
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
0404c01515401db0799124a491f9d424dda4ddddf53520253dc444d06d84cd6db9658455cd55
John,
I drilled and tapped holes in the cage so I could use a machine screw. I can't
remember what size, but it was about a 6-32 with a finer pitch thread and may
have been metric. A large washer on the outside of the lexan will spread the load
under each screw. This allows me to take off the windscreen to work on the
panel. The lexan does not crack and have done it this way for many years. I replaced
the lexan about 10 years ago, but not because it was cracked (I wanted
a longer windscreen). Be careful not to tighten them too tight. If it's snug,
it will not loosen.
Ralph
Original Firestar
18 years flying it
-- "John Williamson" wrote:
Kolb Fliers,
I need help.
Has anyone figured out a way to fasten the polycarbonate to the steel tube
frame of a Kolb cockpit in a fashion that holds up to several hundred hours
of flying?
I seem to be going backwards, my first windows lasted 500 hours, the second
set lasted 200 hours and this last set has lasted only 6 hours. Each time I
have used aluminum rivets to attach the plastic with nothing between it and
the fabric covered tubes.
Any help will sure be appreciated.
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolb Kolbra, Rotax 912UL, 714 hours
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot
Now includes pop-up blocker!
Only $14.95/month -visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up today!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracked windscreens |
Try drilling the holes in the Lexan first oversize greater than 1/8" or
whatever size rivet you are using. Give it some room to expand and
contract. Tony Bingelis said that a 24" square sheet of Plexiglas would
expand and contract by 1/8" over a 100 degree temp range, so it's something
to think about.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>Kolb Fliers,
>
>I need help.
>
>Has anyone figured out a way to fasten the polycarbonate to the steel tube
>frame of a Kolb cockpit in a fashion that holds up to several hundred hours
>of flying?
>
>I seem to be going backwards, my first windows lasted 500 hours, the second
>set lasted 200 hours and this last set has lasted only 6 hours. Each time I
>have used aluminum rivets to attach the plastic with nothing between it and
>the fabric covered tubes.
>
>Any help will sure be appreciated.
>
>
>John Williamson
>Arlington, TX
>
>Kolb Kolbra, Rotax 912UL, 714 hours
>http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot
>
>
>--
>Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
>--
>Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Hi Ya'll:
Steve Garvelink, Dallas Bay, Tennessee, sent me this url for Gaffer's
Tape:
http://www34.pair.com/harrison/thetapeworks.com/progaff.htm
It is some good stuff. Well, worth what you have to pay for it,
although this will be the first time I have had to actually buy some.
Whoa is me. ;-(
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
Why not go to Sun & Fun and pick up your float rating the week before or
after. Used to be a well known school, Brown I believe it was) that
operated out of Winter Haven just next door to Lakeland. You can do it in
a couple days if weather if find. Used to take about 5 hours of flight
time & check ride.
Floats are fun but gassing up a plane can be a challenge, pumping out leaky
floats makes it less enjoyable (I didn't fly at Browns) and no brakes can
make for excitement when approaching a dock. Lesson I - sailing.
jerb
>
> I just received the prototype amphibious floats today that Kolb
> had on their factory plane at Osk this last summer. I also received my
> new 912S. It was snowing pretty hard and was cold so I didn't uncrate
> they. I'm about ready to put on the long handles and the polar suit and
> go out to the hanger and uncrate the floats. Worst than a kid at
> Christmas. Had a nice talk with Steve Boetto Sat.(Float designer) Since
> the floats and plane together have never been on water I will have a
> little testing to do. Really looking foward to this summer looks like it
> will be a busy one.
> Looks like I'm going to have to get my sea plane rating this
> summer. Does any one know of some one around the Kansas,Oklahoma or
> Missouri area that they would recommend.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | cracked windscreens |
weld on a tab and use a bolt...... do not tighten it too tight as the constant
pressure will cause it to crack.... or wrap the tube with an adel clamp
and then bolt the windscreen to that. another option keep the vibration spread
over the entire surface instead of localizing on the rivit points is to put
a very small bead of silicone between the windscreen and tubing.
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Domenic Perez" <perezmdomenic(at)plateautel.net> |
Has anyone tried spades on the ailerons of a Firestar II or other Kolb to lighten
control pressures? I've heard of chord narrowing to achieve the same thing,
but spades seem simpler and easier to adjust for fine-tuning. Of course, there
is always more to everything than meets the eye. Mine are kind of heavy.
M. Domenic Perez
Vaughn, NM
FS II
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Has anyone tried spades on the ailerons of a Firestar II or other
Kolb to lighten control pressures? | M. Domenic Perez
Hi M. Domenic Perez/Gang:
Yes, a gentleman by the name of Aubrey Radford, old Air America pilot
from VN days installed spades on his original Firestar. Aubrey flew
hard, very similar to John Hauck, back in those days. Two months
after I pulled the wings off my original Firestar, Aubrey did the same
thing with his Firestar. He got a full canopy, but the kevlar bridal
seperated when it came into contact with the sharp edge of the engine
mount. Unfortunately, it was his last flight. Those two events
happened 15 years ago. Mine in March and Aubrey's in May. BTW My
parachute worked.
On the subject of heavy ailerons. Kolbs only have heavy ailerons as
speeds increase. For instance, my Kolb MKIII starts loading up the
ailerons about 70 mph. Below that they can be racked over stop to
stop. Above that and they are stiff. Homer Kolb told me to be
gentle, apply a little pressure, and the Kolb would roll. Those wide
cord ailerons were designed for slow speed control right through the
stall. Homer, personally, loves to fly slowly. Thus the wide cord.
I clipped some cord off my MKIII ailerons when I built it based on
many hours experience flying the factory MKIII. I got a good
compromise. Still have sufficient aileron to have control through the
stall.
Kolbs were not designed to be snappy, quick rolling aircraft. Their
beauty is in their ability to get off the ground quick, climb out
steeply, land short, and haul anything you can cram in it and
sometimes, strap on it. In my Firestar days I could not get all my
cross country gear inside the aircraft. When I was building it, I had
Brother Jim weld me some tabs on the bottom of the fuselage from the
main gear aft. Here is where my sleeping bag rode inside its bungee
cargo net. Thought I was something when I reconfigured the Firestar
and was able to fly extended cross country flights with "all" my gear
inside the airplane.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bryan green <lgreen1(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Radio shack antenna |
John / all
Here is the info I got from my friend on the radio shack antenna. He
has been using it with a Icom A23 and a Lynx headset for about five
years. He flys about 150 hours a year.
Bryan Green Elgin SC
Bryan,
What I have is the MAXRAD state of the art Antennas
http://www.maxrad.com/
I got it from Radio Shack But I am told they no longer carrie this.
My Coax is from the same company and is about 18 foot, I have it
mounted on the wing.
I hope this will help ,,,,this is all the info I have at this time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bryan green <lgreen1(at)sc.rr.com> |
John H
I am thinking about replacing the reliable old 377 on my plane with
a new 447. What prop did you use on your Firestar and can I use a Warp?
Bryan Green Elgin SC
Firestar 377 BRS 19LBG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
What prop did you use on your Firestar and can I use a Warp?
| Bryan Green Elgin SC
Hi Bryan/Gang:
I used a Jim Culver two blade wood prop 66X32 with polyurethane
leading edge. Was a perfect combo for my original FS. Put a lot of
cross country miles under those wings being pushed by that Culver
prop.
I don't know. Can you use a Warp? hehehe Seriously, I really have
no experience with the Warp Drive Prop until I put one on a 582 on my
MKIII. Best guy to talk to about Warp Drive Props and your particular
aircraft is Daryl. He has a 1-800 number.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Curtin" <jcurtin(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gaffer's Tape |
Hello John and All, I hate to sound dumb, but what is the gaffer's tape used
for. Help make me a little smarter, thanks. Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Gaffer's Tape
>
> Hi Ya'll:
>
> Steve Garvelink, Dallas Bay, Tennessee, sent me this url for Gaffer's
> Tape:
>
> http://www34.pair.com/harrison/thetapeworks.com/progaff.htm
>
> It is some good stuff. Well, worth what you have to pay for it,
> although this will be the first time I have had to actually buy some.
> Whoa is me. ;-(
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gaffer's Tape |
| what is the gaffer's tape used
| for. Jerry
Jerry/Gang:
I take it along on cross country flights for emergency situations.
Can use it like you would use duct tape. Gaffers tape is much better
quality. Sticks good, but also easy to remove. The primary
application I like is using it to tape up the radiator during cold
weather operation to keep eng oil temp and cyl head temp up to their
recommended operating ranges. Last flight to Alaska I used it to
repair lexan door and quarter window that got damaged when I
accidently splashed auto fuel on them.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
At 03:12 PM 3/2/2005, you wrote:
>
> | Has anyone tried spades on the ailerons of a Firestar II or other
>Kolb to lighten control pressures? | M. Domenic Perez
>
>Hi M. Domenic Perez/Gang:
>
>Yes, a gentleman by the name of Aubrey Radford, old Air America pilot
>from VN days installed spades on his original Firestar. Aubrey flew
>hard, very similar to John Hauck, back in those days. Two months
>after I pulled the wings off my original Firestar, Aubrey did the same
>thing with his Firestar. He got a full canopy, but the kevlar bridal
>seperated when it came into contact with the sharp edge of the engine
>mount. Unfortunately, it was his last flight. Those two events
>happened 15 years ago. Mine in March and Aubrey's in May. BTW My
>parachute worked.
He did have the spades on his plane, but later we cut down the ailerons and
archived the same or better results.
That's right about the crash - except Aubrey had a "Second Chance" chute
with a "nylon"
bridal that separated at about 100+ mph on an over loaded KXP going
straight down after doing several aerobic maneuvers - loops and
hammerheads - at an air show.
The front leading edge folded back as far as we could tell - the out of
column sort of thing.
I'm almost sure it was a 500lb max chute system. Aubrey was about 1/2 max
himself.
He hit so hard that the engine block was flattened. Not to be too graphic
but just in case you guys haven't seen one of these - they're really
teeth, hair & ....you know the rest. We've had two of these so far - so
be careful out there you guys. Aubrey flew very hard. I could tell you stories
about Aubrey, but you wouldn't believe them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lowell Metz" <lowellmetz(at)earthlink.net> |
Kolb listeners,
I would like to sell the prop from my Kolb FS II. It has 20 hours on it
since new.
GSC 66" wood , ground adjustable , inserted leading edges , with protractor. Hub
fits the 447 / 503 and was very smooth running. No damage.
$270.00 ( about half price of new)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles & Meredith Blackwell <wozani(at)optonline.net> |
For anyone with access to Kitplanes magazine, in their Dec. 2004 issue under Aero Lectrics they have a desing for antennas similar to the one provided on the website (http://www.challengers101.com/AntennaBuild.html) by Bryan. This one uses flexible 16 conductor computer ribbon cable though. Also there are directions for using something like a coat hanger and how to make grounding plates. I am probably going to be using either a retired airplane antenna or the ribbon style when I rebuild.
Until then the flexible one that came with my Icom seems to give good coverage
transmitting out to 15 miles, haven't tried further.
Charlie, MKII NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Crikey John,
| which war were you in?
Pat
Hi Pat/Gang:
And "crikey" right back atcha!!!
Vietnam 1966-1967
Vietnam 1969-1970
Only one war, but I got volunteered to do it twice. ;-)
I haven't commented on wheel pants for Kolb aircraft, although I did
have a beautiful set of them on my original Firestar. Spent many
hours fitting and finishing them. Flew my first test flight with
them, in fact. But that was all. At that time the Firestar kit was
supplied with Azusa black nylon two piece wheels. Little bitty guys.
Never knew small wheel could flex so much. When the wheel flexed the
tire rubbed the wheel pant.
I must add. I fly out of a cow pasture. Do not know how to translat
that into Pat's English. The cows constantly mine my airstrip with
big cow turds. Back then, there was no way to miss them all during
takeoff and landing. One of the primary reasons for the wheel pants
was to keep the cow crap off me and my airplane. The Ultrastar open
wheels did a good job of dispersing the fresh cow pies from the grass
to me and the bottom of the wing. Come to find out the wheel pants
did not help and were a pain in the butt. Still got routine cow crap
baths. When I took them off they each weighed 50 lbs total weight.
That's 2 lbs for the pants and 48 lbs of cow crap thrown into the rear
cavity of the pants.
My kind of flying, I don't need no fancy pants. I like big soft
tires, rough fields, gravel bars in the Tallapoosa River, and the
grass infield at Wetumpka Airport. ;-)
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| As applied to aviation I always thought a spat was a partial wheel
covering
| for streamlining the wheel but not a mud flap.
| jerb
jerb/Gang:
In Alaska and Canada you will find small gravel/mud shields for most
of the Cessna 206's, 210's. Also larger aircraft like Twin Otters.
Gravel and dirt reek havoc on sheet metal and metal props up there.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Change of subject |
Kolbers,
It appears to me that if all we have to talk about is cow patties and leggons,
we have reached the bottom of the barrel.
I have been kicking around ideas for improving the Kolb landing gear. It seems
that a lot of people have had trouble with bent or broken gear legs, including
myself.
One idea that comes to my mind and has on several ocassions, is the possibility
of using 1/2 of a auto leaf spring for a gear leg. One would have to fashion
a socket on the cage for the leaf to insert into and a spindle that would attach
to the bottom end of the leaf that would accept the wheel/backing plate for
brakes. It seems that this would give cushion to ground contact without bending
or breaking anything.
What do ya think? Anybody tried it before?
Dale Sellers
Georgia UltraStar
(sick of cow patties):>)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
Dale/all
I agree, we need a new subject
At Oshkosh last summer The New Kolb was showing a new set of landing gear
for the MKIII. They are longer (better angle of attack), tubular spring
steel (light and stronger), are bent down (not much wider if any), and
forward a bit (more weight on the tail wheel). Sounds like they are
listening to us.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Change of subject
>
> Kolbers,
>
> It appears to me that if all we have to talk about is cow patties and
> leggons, we have reached the bottom of the barrel.
> I have been kicking around ideas for improving the Kolb landing gear. It
> seems that a lot of people have had trouble with bent or broken gear legs,
> including myself.
> One idea that comes to my mind and has on several ocassions, is the
> possibility of using 1/2 of a auto leaf spring for a gear leg. One would
> have to fashion a socket on the cage for the leaf to insert into and a
> spindle that would attach to the bottom end of the leaf that would accept
> the wheel/backing plate for brakes. It seems that this would give cushion
> to ground contact without bending or breaking anything.
>
> What do ya think? Anybody tried it before?
>
> Dale Sellers
> Georgia UltraStar
> (sick of cow patties):>)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | change of subject |
I have the leaf spring for a landing gear on my 1983 T-Bird1 and I would
love to have something else, of course I can for
$325 dollars and one day to change it while suspending the
plane. Golden Circle only used this set up for one year due to damage to
the frame. They rejected it as a bad idea and I concur. I had to
straighten one as there are no replacement gears made for it. I had a much
easier time fixing gear on my Kolb Mark 3. Kolb sells a stronger gear which
I bought, but demolished my Mark 3 before I had a chance to put them on.
Sold them to someone on the west coast I think.
Dallas Shepherd
Norfork, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
| We're not dumb. We should be able to come up with a fix that works
without
| having to pay TNK an arm and a leg. I enjoy the challenge of
solving
| problems without being at the mercy of those with the high prices.
I'm
| retired and on a fixed income. That's why I'm flying an Ultrastar
instead
| of a Mark III Extra. I'm going to do some experimenting.
|
| Dale Sellers
Dale S/Gents/Ladies/and others:
You'll have to speak for yourself on that.
I haven't bought a Kolb gear leg since I bent those little ones that
came with the original Firestar Kit I received in 1986.
Been flying with my own gear legs since late 1986. Did some
experimenting, at the encouragement of Brother Jim, with 4130 tubular
heat treated main gear legs. Started out with 1" X .090" X a little
longer than the stock aluminum leg. Did some research, talked to Jan
(RIP) at Max Air to find out what the RC was on their gear legs. He
told me 42RC. Sent mine off to Lindberg Heat Treating in Orlando, FL.
Worked pretty good, but were too flexible, and not hard enough. I
ended up bending them pretty good. Also took out the left gear leg
socket that sheared at the end of the steel gear leg just about the
midpoint of the socket.
Back to the drawing board. Brother Jim suggested 1 1/8" X .120.
Ordered some tubing. When it arrived I told Jim it ain't gonna work.
Too big and too thick. No way. Had them heat treated to RC48. Also
cut them to 35.5". Lindberg could not handle anything over 36". This
length set up the FS in a perfect 3 pt stance. RC48 and the new
larger, heavier tubing worked out perfect. I still have those two
gear legs in my possession, but they have been sold to a good friend.
Will make me feel good to see them fly again on his FS.
For your info, the gear legs on my big fat overweight MKIII are 1 1/8"
X .120" X 24". They work great. Same RC numbers, 48. This makes a
good spring. They are flexible, yet if crashed, they will bend. I
tested them at Muncho Lake, BC, 1 July 2000. Bent both of them.
One of the reasons I try to do everything myself, house, truck,
tractor, boat, airplane, motorcylce, is to save money. If I did not
do the maintenance I could not affford to have them. I have been
living on retirement for 25+ years without the luxury of a job. Sure
was nice when I hit 62 and started drawing my SS check. Now I can
have peanut butter on my peanut butter and jelly sandwiches.
Would be a simple job to design gear leg sockets for the US, cut some
4130 gear legs, have them heat treated, and enjoy some main gear with
a little flex.
I broke so many US main gear, Bro Jim built the last set out of .090
wall tubing. Was heavier, but much huskier. My big problem was
dropping it in on one gear about a foot off the ground. I had to make
a 45 deg turn on touch down on my little airstrip, which put the left
wing up and the right gear down. Had no brakes on the US. Had to
land as soon as I could to get her stopped in time.
Been flying off my own gear legs for 18 years now. Have no reason to
change when they get the job done.
Take care,
john h
PS: These gear legs not effected by cow manure. Thoroughly tested
every time I take off and land.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
| Too big and too thick. No way. Had them heat treated to RC48.
Also
| cut them to 35.5".
Hi Gang:
This is an addendum to my previous gear leg msg.
Should have included: Gear legs are inserted into the socket all the
way to the intersection where they will bottom out. This effectively
puts the entire gear leg socket to work for you, and the steel leg
does not act like a shear when mounted in the old Kolb prescribed
manner for the FS.
Sorry about that,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
The original gear on my US was the rigid, a-frame type with the cross
braces. All the tubing was .035, 4130. The first time I dropped it in from
about three feet. the gear main legs and braces curshed and folded. I was
running 8 lbs. in the 6" tires to try to give it a little cushion but it was
not enough. After that, I built a new set of gear legs as per the plans but
out of .120" wall thinkness. I also reamed the .035" x 3/4" OD spindles to
5/8" ID. Really just cleaned them out. The 5/8" reamer dodn't cut any
metal. I inserted a solid piece of 5/8" cold roll inside the spindles all
the way from the outer end where the cotter pin went through that holds the
wheel on to the inner end where the criss braces bolted onto the spindle.
The new cross braces were also made of 1/2" OD 4130, .120" wall thinkness.
This new gear has taken alot of punishment with no damage. I also fashioned
backing plate attach brackets from heavy duty, 3/4" ID flat washers, slipped
them over the 3/4" spindles and after drilling four 1/4" mounting holes to
mount the backing plates for the 6" drum brakes I added and welded them to
the spendles as far as they would go inward. I use heel brake pedals. The
brakes work great, they will hold a WOT runup and I can turn around on one
wheel but it is still a stiff gear. I've been running the idea through my
mind of constructing a gear using two pieces of flat car springs as gear
legs. It will have enough give to absorb hard landings without jaring the
plane and pilot and will be much more forgiving and cheap to build. I
might fail but I'm gonna give it a try. I think I can make it work.
Dale Sellers
Georgia UltraStar
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Landing Gear Legs
>
> | We're not dumb. We should be able to come up with a fix that works
> without
> | having to pay TNK an arm and a leg. I enjoy the challenge of
> solving
> | problems without being at the mercy of those with the high prices.
> I'm
> | retired and on a fixed income. That's why I'm flying an Ultrastar
> instead
> | of a Mark III Extra. I'm going to do some experimenting.
> |
> | Dale Sellers
>
> Dale S/Gents/Ladies/and others:
>
> You'll have to speak for yourself on that.
>
> I haven't bought a Kolb gear leg since I bent those little ones that
> came with the original Firestar Kit I received in 1986.
>
> Been flying with my own gear legs since late 1986. Did some
> experimenting, at the encouragement of Brother Jim, with 4130 tubular
> heat treated main gear legs. Started out with 1" X .090" X a little
> longer than the stock aluminum leg. Did some research, talked to Jan
> (RIP) at Max Air to find out what the RC was on their gear legs. He
> told me 42RC. Sent mine off to Lindberg Heat Treating in Orlando, FL.
> Worked pretty good, but were too flexible, and not hard enough. I
> ended up bending them pretty good. Also took out the left gear leg
> socket that sheared at the end of the steel gear leg just about the
> midpoint of the socket.
>
> Back to the drawing board. Brother Jim suggested 1 1/8" X .120.
> Ordered some tubing. When it arrived I told Jim it ain't gonna work.
> Too big and too thick. No way. Had them heat treated to RC48. Also
> cut them to 35.5". Lindberg could not handle anything over 36". This
> length set up the FS in a perfect 3 pt stance. RC48 and the new
> larger, heavier tubing worked out perfect. I still have those two
> gear legs in my possession, but they have been sold to a good friend.
> Will make me feel good to see them fly again on his FS.
>
> For your info, the gear legs on my big fat overweight MKIII are 1 1/8"
> X .120" X 24". They work great. Same RC numbers, 48. This makes a
> good spring. They are flexible, yet if crashed, they will bend. I
> tested them at Muncho Lake, BC, 1 July 2000. Bent both of them.
>
> One of the reasons I try to do everything myself, house, truck,
> tractor, boat, airplane, motorcylce, is to save money. If I did not
> do the maintenance I could not affford to have them. I have been
> living on retirement for 25+ years without the luxury of a job. Sure
> was nice when I hit 62 and started drawing my SS check. Now I can
> have peanut butter on my peanut butter and jelly sandwiches.
>
> Would be a simple job to design gear leg sockets for the US, cut some
> 4130 gear legs, have them heat treated, and enjoy some main gear with
> a little flex.
>
> I broke so many US main gear, Bro Jim built the last set out of .090
> wall tubing. Was heavier, but much huskier. My big problem was
> dropping it in on one gear about a foot off the ground. I had to make
> a 45 deg turn on touch down on my little airstrip, which put the left
> wing up and the right gear down. Had no brakes on the US. Had to
> land as soon as I could to get her stopped in time.
>
> Been flying off my own gear legs for 18 years now. Have no reason to
> change when they get the job done.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
> PS: These gear legs not effected by cow manure. Thoroughly tested
> every time I take off and land.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
HI must agree with Steve here men,
Not that I dont do an awful lot myself , sometimes to save money, and
sometimes just cause "I wanna do it myself"....BUt to adress Kolbs prices.
Sometimes they might seem high...but not really that bad men...I have bought
a set of legs from them...and when ya get right down to it...they are not
really that high. 100 bucks for what?..well..2 pieces of aluminum that cost
like heck anywhere you buy it new...then try standing in front of your lathe
and turning that taper down on them..cant do it in an hour. now consider
paying a machinist to stand next to you and your lathe while ya do it...20
bucks an hour maybe?...maybe 25...? nope. Now add a little dab of profit
for them so they can keep the company alive and be there the next time we
want something from them. So there can be somebody there to answer the phone
when we need a question answered. I for one have called them and asked
plenty of questions...and I dont ever recall getting an invoice for that
time spent with me, but I surely hope that Donny or Travis or who ever
answered was getting a paycheck that day..I would hate to have to come to
work for Free! Those fellas are not retired!!!!!
Don Gherardini
OEM.Sales / Engineering dept.
American Honda Engines
Power Equipment Company
CortLand, Illinois
800-626-7326
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
>
> We're not dumb. We should be able to come up with a fix that
works without
> having to pay TNK an arm and a leg. I enjoy the challenge of
solving
> problems without being at the mercy of those with the high prices.
I'm
> retired and on a fixed income. That's why I'm flying an Ultrastar
instead
> of a Mark III Extra. I'm going to do some experimenting
Some of us are still working and don't have all that free time to
experiment so if Kolb has come up with a good landing gear like John
has, I'd buy it.
Do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb gear legs |
>
>Kolb Guys,
>
>My point.....We build and fly expirimental or ultra light, aircraft. I,
for one, believe we should keep an eye out for weak points in our aircraft
and figure out a way to fix it instead of buying another inferior
part.
>
Dale,
On the FireFly, I do not believe the landing gear is the problem. The
problem is that the wing angle to the fuselage is set too low so that one
must accelerate to higher than flying speed to get the FireFly to lift off.
The same is true of landing in that one must fly much higher than stall
speed to "grease it on". To get the FireFly to take off and land at just
above stall speed, all one has to do is droop the ailerons one or two
degrees, and it will land nicely in the three point stance. Also with the
ailerons drooped, it will take off from the three point stance without a pop
up.
The slower forward speed one can transition from or to the ground reduces
landing gear punishment. Vortex generators help reduce stall speed and
landing gear punishment too.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb gear legs |
| If you'll read my post again, I didn't say "when TNC bought Mr.
Kolb" , I
| said when the "purchers of the Kolb designs bought them.
|
| Dale Sellers
Hi Dale/Gang:
No, here is your exact quote:
| "The purchers of the Kolb designs stiffed Homer. Acording to him,
they got a goldmine for very little. They're selling kits hand over
fist, world wide."
Please qualify this statement. I am a little confused.
Thanks,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Cracked windscreens |
Fellow Kolb enthusiasts,
Here are some of the responses I got back reference my cracked windscreens:
>>I enlarged the holes & that seemed to do it, maybe a small flat washer
between tube & polycarbonate would work better still?
>>I have read that the holes for screws or rivets should have a
little extra clearance to allow for some movement.
>>Oversize the hole for a nylon sleeve/bushing that is a bit thicker than
the poly.
>>Enlarge the holes in the lexan. As a pop rivet mandrel is pulled, the
rivet crushes and expands into the hole.
>>I drilled and tapped holes in the cage so I could use a machine screw. I
can't remember what size, but it was about a 6-32 with a finer pitch thread
and may have been metric. A large washer on the outside of the lexan will
spread the load under each screw.
>>weld on a tab and use a bolt...... do not tighten it too tight as the
constant pressure will cause it to crack.... or wrap the tube with an
adel clamp and then bolt the windscreen to that. another option keep the
vibration spread over the entire surface instead of localizing on the rivit
points is to put a very small bead of silicone between the windscreen and
tubing.
>>I oversized the mounting holes in my short FSII windshield appropriately
to fit rubber grommets that I selected...shaped like Cheerios with a little
groove around the OD and snap into a proper-sized hole. I drilled the
windshield, snapped the grommets in place, and used 1/4 x 28 button head
stainless allen bolts and thin stainless flat washers to secure the
windscreen to the tabs on the fuse with nutserts.
>>Try drilling the holes in the Lexan first oversize greater than 1/8" or
whatever size rivet you are using. Give it some room to expand and contract.
Tony Bingelis said that a 24" square sheet of Plexiglas would expand and
contract by 1/8" over a 100 degree temp range, so it's something to think
about.
The most often repeated words were: "oversize the hole in the plastic."
I went back and read my Kolbra construction manual about installing the
windows, which is just a reprint of what is in the MarkIII Xtra manual. It
says to oversize the holes to 3/16" for a 1/8" rivet.
It seems that each time I have replaced my windows, I have decrased the
amount I was oversizing the holes. I have now drilled all my holes up to
3/16" and will install the new windows with large diameter head rivets. I'll
let you know how it turns out.
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolb Kolbra, Rotax 912UL, 714 hours
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Lexan & Plexiglas |
From the responses I got back about my cracked windscreens, I thought I
would add a little info about plastics.
Plexiglass is a trade name for an acrylic plastic. It is hot formed and used
in most smaller FAA certified aircraft. It is hard and scratches can be
worked out of it. It is resistant to auto and aviation fuels.
Lexan, Tuffak and Hyzod are trade names for polycarbonate plastic. It can be
cold or hot formed but is fairly soft and pliable. It scratches easily and
can not be readily repaired.
Here is some info I took off the protective covering of my Lexan Sheet:
--Cleaning:
*Rinse sheet with lukewarm water; wash gently with mild soap or detergent
and lukewarm water, using a soft cloth or sponge. DO NOT SCRUB or use
brushes or squeegees.
*Rinse again. Dry with soft cloth or moist cellulose sponge to prevent water
spotting.
*To remove wet paint, glazing compound or grease, rub lightly with a good
grade of VM&P naphtha or isopropyl alcohol, then was and rinse. DO NOT USE
GASOLINE.
--Compatible Cleaning Agents:
*Aqueous Solutions of Soaps and Detergents
Fantastik
Formula 409
Hexcel, F.O.554
Joy
Lysol
Mr. Clean
Neleco-Placer
PineSol
Top Job
Windex
*Organic Solvents
Aliphatic Hydrocarbons
Kerosene
Naphtha (VM&P Grade)
Petroleum Spirits
*Alcohols
Isopropyl Alcohol
Methanol
*Graffi Removal
Butyl Cellosolve (For removal of paints, marking pen inks, lipstick,
etc.)
To minimize scratches and minor abrasions, use a mild automobile polish such
as Johnson's Paste Wax, Novus Plastic Polish #1 and #2 or Mirror Glaze
Plastic Polish.
I hope this enlightens someone besides me. I just want to go flying!
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolb Kolbra,
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi(at)supernet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lexan & Plexiglas |
John Williamson wrote:
> To minimize scratches and minor abrasions, use a mild automobile polish such
> as Johnson's Paste Wax, Novus Plastic Polish #1 and #2 or Mirror Glaze
> Plastic Polish.
>
> I hope this enlightens someone besides me. I just want to go flying!
>
I use lemon pledge furniture polish to clean my windshield. It seems
that if you clean with windex or other glass cleaners it removes any
dirt and film and any scratches are clearly visible when flying into the
sun. However the furniture polish seems wax over the scratches and
leaves a much clearer window. Works fer me. And I like invisible glass!
~ Earl
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
>
>After wiping the origional gear out on the US caused by side loads, I built
>a new set of gear using .120" wall 4130 and so far, I've put some pretty
>heavy loads on it and no problems. The original gear legs were .035".
>
Dale,
With 15 inch chord ailerons, the original FireFly was difficult to fly in
the middle of the day and cross wind landings were almost impossible. I
changed to nine inch chord ailerons, and modified the aileron control
linkages so that stick loads became very light. All play was removed from
the system. These changes let me stay ahead of the FireFly in gusty cross
winds. Currently, it is a delight to make cross wind take off and landings
and to fly in the middle of the day. All that is required to side slip or
to keep the wings level is gentle pressure on the stick. These
modifications help the FireFly to respond just like a regular aircraft. But
due to low gross weight you have to be a little quicker in responding.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Big 'ol Ailerons (formerly landing gear legs) |
Brother Hart...
Not too sure I follow your logic... The larger 15 inch Firefly ailerons do
increase roll control stick pressures, but it seems intuitive that they also
increase roll axis control authority, and available yaw and roll control
authority (aileron and rudder together ) down near Vso is the key
determinent of demonstrated crosswind component landing limits for any
aircraft. It may take more muscle, but those big surfaces would appear to
enable a stronger roll axis input... As a matter of fact, I find that my
Firefly will run out of rudder authority in a stiff crosswind landing well
before I run out of aileron authority... and I have frequently operated my
15 inch aileron toy in good stout (15 to 20 mph) high-angle crosswinds with
no particular difficulty... You mentioned slips...'Ol FireFly 076 slips like
the clutch on an elderly Yugo -- you can almost end up looking over your
shoulder at the airport if ya ain't careful....
Please explain how smaller chord, less powerful ailerons enable higher
crosswind landing limits or enhanced forward slip capability... I would
suggest that there is a good simple reason the short-chord ailerons result
in lower stick forces.... they're deflecting less air and doing
substantially less work out there on the wings.... I just fail to see how
that increases the ability to influence the roll axis and produce the
results you cite... (Are you making an adverse yaw argument?)
Baffled Beauford in Brandon
FF#076
Manly Ailerons...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack & Louise Hart" <jbhart(at)ldd.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Landing Gear Legs
>
>>
>>After wiping the origional gear out on the US caused by side loads, I
>>built
>>a new set of gear using .120" wall 4130 and so far, I've put some pretty
>>heavy loads on it and no problems. The original gear legs were .035".
>>
>
> Dale,
>
> With 15 inch chord ailerons, the original FireFly was difficult to fly in
> the middle of the day and cross wind landings were almost impossible. I
> changed to nine inch chord ailerons, and modified the aileron control
> linkages so that stick loads became very light. All play was removed from
> the system. These changes let me stay ahead of the FireFly in gusty cross
> winds. Currently, it is a delight to make cross wind take off and
> landings
> and to fly in the middle of the day. All that is required to side slip or
> to keep the wings level is gentle pressure on the stick. These
> modifications help the FireFly to respond just like a regular aircraft.
> But
> due to low gross weight you have to be a little quicker in responding.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Jackson, MO
>
>
> Jack & Louise Hart
> jbhart(at)ldd.net
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb gear legs |
Ray & All,
Your criticize the gear but there are still two things that impact the
gear, gross weight and pilot error. Over time the planes have gotten
fatter, bigger engines, larger fuel tanks, more toys, increased
pilot/passenger loads. The Kolb lands a little different that most planes,
until new pilots get that down they often fly them in too slow and drop
them in and bend one or both gear legs. Unless bent really bad they can be
straightened. Sure they could make them carrier landing proof but it would
require beefing up the basic structure thus adding much weight - myself I
feel it is better to sacrifice a gear leg than bend the cage. Small
companies don't necessarily have a huge amount of surplus engineering
talent to draw upon. Keep in mind 9-11 hurt most of these companies with
sales also being impacted as customers sat on the fence until the Sport
Pilot issue was adapted. Customers can help invoke change and
improvements. When something is tried and field proven to work well,
submit it for them to consider or offer as an upgrade option. Or better
yet, offer it your self and make a small fortune.
jerb
>
>Dale,
> As one fighting cancer now ( 2 melanomas) I applaud your
> attitude. Hang in there. I too have an UltraStar, my second one. Now to
> the Kolb deficiencies. Basically they are using Homers design. However,
> New Kolb obviously haven't done sufficient, up to date engineering on
> gear legs and some other points. No excuses should be made. Reading the
> posts here for a year or so indicate that for the weight of the new
> planes, they are not capable of handling the loads that the AVERAGE pilot
> with perhaps low time and experience place on them. If they require
> delicate handling and near perfect landing techniques for every landing,
> the advertisements should state that certain models are not recommended
> for beginners and low time pilots.
> It doesn't matter how much the plane weighs, it is possible to
> design gear and cage and attach points that will absorb safely ANY
> average hard landings. There are dozens of homebuilt designs out there
> that never have landing gear failures under the most severe
> circumstances. There is no excuse for the New Kolbs to be different when
> proper R&D development could overcome that. Others have done it. snip....
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Cracked windscreens |
John,
Being around the RV aircraft builders, they re-drill the holes for the
canopy material over size, if not they crack @%& $$$. 3/16 would give your
1/32 clearance on each side of the rivet which sounds about right. If you
don't you will crack the windscreen when you start installing the
rivets. Almost guaranteed.
jerb
>
>Fellow Kolb enthusiasts,
>
>Here are some of the responses I got back reference my cracked windscreens:
>
> >>I enlarged the holes & that seemed to do it, maybe a small flat washer
>between tube & polycarbonate would work better still?
>
> >>I have read that the holes for screws or rivets should have a
>little extra clearance to allow for some movement.
>
> >>Oversize the hole for a nylon sleeve/bushing that is a bit thicker than
>the poly.
>
> >>Enlarge the holes in the lexan. As a pop rivet mandrel is pulled, the
>rivet crushes and expands into the hole.
>
> >>I drilled and tapped holes in the cage so I could use a machine screw. I
>can't remember what size, but it was about a 6-32 with a finer pitch thread
>and may have been metric. A large washer on the outside of the lexan will
>spread the load under each screw.
>
> >>weld on a tab and use a bolt...... do not tighten it too tight as the
>constant pressure will cause it to crack.... or wrap the tube with an
>adel clamp and then bolt the windscreen to that. another option keep the
>vibration spread over the entire surface instead of localizing on the rivit
>points is to put a very small bead of silicone between the windscreen and
>tubing.
>
> >>I oversized the mounting holes in my short FSII windshield appropriately
>to fit rubber grommets that I selected...shaped like Cheerios with a little
>groove around the OD and snap into a proper-sized hole. I drilled the
>windshield, snapped the grommets in place, and used 1/4 x 28 button head
>stainless allen bolts and thin stainless flat washers to secure the
>windscreen to the tabs on the fuse with nutserts.
>
> >>Try drilling the holes in the Lexan first oversize greater than 1/8" or
>whatever size rivet you are using. Give it some room to expand and contract.
>Tony Bingelis said that a 24" square sheet of Plexiglas would expand and
>contract by 1/8" over a 100 degree temp range, so it's something to think
>about.
>
>The most often repeated words were: "oversize the hole in the plastic."
>
>I went back and read my Kolbra construction manual about installing the
>windows, which is just a reprint of what is in the MarkIII Xtra manual. It
>says to oversize the holes to 3/16" for a 1/8" rivet.
>
>It seems that each time I have replaced my windows, I have decrased the
>amount I was oversizing the holes. I have now drilled all my holes up to
>3/16" and will install the new windows with large diameter head rivets. I'll
>let you know how it turns out.
>
>
>John Williamson
>Arlington, TX
>
>Kolb Kolbra, Rotax 912UL, 714 hours
>http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "PATRICK LADD" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
With the propensity of lawsuits these days I would think they would welcome
advise on how to improve their product.>>
Hi Dale,
with regards to the above quote.
I was surprised to receive a request from Kolb to sign away almost all my
rights to sue in nearly all circumstances. This included the basic rule (in
this country at any rate) that "goods supplied should be of merchantable
quality and fit for the purpose for which they are sold".
Not only that but any court case MUST be tried by a circuit judge in
Alabama. Having had a brush with the Americam legal system, and escaped by
the skin of my teeth, I have no hesitation in saying NO WAY Jose. I shall
not be signing.
Cheers
Pat
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
Patrick,
I agree. Where in Alabama do you live? I'm just barely into GA past
Columbus but I originally from Miss and I come and go through Alabama all
the time as most of my relatives still live there.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "PATRICK LADD" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Landing Gear Legs
>
> With the propensity of lawsuits these days I would think they would
> welcome
> advise on how to improve their product.>>
>
> Hi Dale,
> with regards to the above quote.
> I was surprised to receive a request from Kolb to sign away almost all my
> rights to sue in nearly all circumstances. This included the basic rule
> (in
> this country at any rate) that "goods supplied should be of merchantable
> quality and fit for the purpose for which they are sold".
> Not only that but any court case MUST be tried by a circuit judge in
> Alabama. Having had a brush with the Americam legal system, and escaped
> by
> the skin of my teeth, I have no hesitation in saying NO WAY Jose. I shall
> not be signing.
>
> Cheers
>
> Pat
>
>
> --
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Big 'ol Ailerons (formerly landing gear legs) |
>
>Brother Hart...
>..............................
>Please explain how smaller chord, less powerful ailerons enable higher
>crosswind landing limits or enhanced forward slip capability... I would
>suggest that there is a good simple reason the short-chord ailerons result
>in lower stick forces.... they're deflecting less air and doing
>substantially less work out there on the wings.... I just fail to see how
>that increases the ability to influence the roll axis and produce the
>results you cite... (Are you making an adverse yaw argument?)
>
>Baffled Beauford in Brandon
>FF#076
>Manly Ailerons...
>
Bro Beauford...
I flew sailplanes for several years. Sailplane landing technique is a
little different in that one approaches the field and flares at well above
Vso. There are several reasons for this approach. First is to always make
the field and to have good roll capability to handle cross winds. Since you
have just one wheel, the aircraft must be stable before you pull the
spoilers and put it on down on the ground and apply the wheel brake. If you
are drifting sideways, the chances of ground looping and tearing up a wing
tip increase. I flew a little single seat Swchiezer (sp) that was a delight
to fly. You just had to think of moving the stick and it responded. I
believe it weighed about the same as the FireFly.
It may be that part of the differences between our planes is the fact that I
have one of the early ones, FF004. I have the old stick design and so I
believe the stick moment arm is about 5 to 6 inches less than the later
design. On the first flight, I discovered that I could not displace the
ailerons at cruise due to dynamic loading. I flew it to my EAA Chapter
Meeting 54 miles away in the middle of the day. Even though I told my self
that I did not have to compensate for roll to keep the wings level, my brain
kept sending signals to my right arm to keep the wings level. By the time I
got there my shoulder was sore. Also, one can bob up and down in a forward
motion for an hour or so with out any problem. But if you add an opposing
rolling motion at the same time, it is best to fly on an empty stomach.
Also there was no way to apply rudder and side slip it to stay lined up with
the strip center while landing in a cross wind. You had to crab it down,
kick it around at the last moment and hope the wind held steady. I called
the old Kolb Company and asked what I could do to lighten the aileron forces
and was told that it was an ultra light and to not fly in the middle of the
day.
I hanger in a long open bay hanger that can hold up to 20 planes. One day I
was helping to move planes and I realized the controls were not locked. So
I got out my incline meter and tape measure. I measured wing and aileron
length and chord and aileron deflections up and down from neutral. When I
compared these numbers to those for the FireFly, I found the aileron chord
and deflections were much to large. This lead to the change to a nine chord
aileron and adjusting the lower push rod position for 20 degrees maximum
aileron defection. After these changes, the FireFly became an any time of
the day flyer. The addition of vortex generators enhanced aileron
effectiveness and helps make up for what may be lost at the lower speeds.
Also, I have removed all play from the aileron control system.
The end result of these changes is that one can fly with little energy out
put which makes for relaxed and fun flying because the FireFly will respond
instantaneously. After an hour of flight my shoulder feels normal, and I
could get back in and do it again. It will handle direct gusty cross wind
landings of 20 mph and steady cross winds of 25 mph before running out of
rudder while slipping to keep it on the runway center. Best of all only
slight pressure is required to hold it into the slip or to keep the wings
level.
I never drag in on a landing approach. I approach high and when the field
is made, I throttle back push the stick forward and maintain 55 to 60 mphi
to the point of flare. Once the flare is made into ground effect you have
about three seconds to nurse it on down. With two degrees of flaperon, it
is easy to three point.
To answer your aileron chord question. Lets not talk about aileron
deflection by degree displacement but use inches up and down of the trailing
edge. Assuming all other things equal, if both the 15 and 9 inch chord
ailerons are deflected one inch on the trailing edge and assuming they
produce the same roll rate, the 9 inch chord aileron will require, due to
the smaller moment arm, 40% less force to deflect. If you are going to
always fly at the edge of stall, larger ailerons may be of some use. The
only time one flies at this speed is when you transition to and from the
ground and playing around at altitude and under these conditions the smaller
ailerons are more than adequate.
It is much nicer having a FireFly that is fun to fly any time of the day and
does not make your shoulder sore. My humble apologies for the lengthy
response. I agree with the previous responders, that if you build it and
you don't like it, change it until if fits your needs. Don't let anyone
tell you have to make changes if you are happy with what you have. But make
small incremental changes to prevent unpleasant surprises.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Thumb & Finger Ailerons
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Firefly Cross Wind Capability |
> It will handle direct gusty cross wind
> landings of 20 mph and steady cross winds of 25 mph before running out of
> rudder while slipping to keep it on the runway center. > Jack B. Hart
> FF004
Morning Jack B/Gang:
During the last 20+ years flying Kolb aircraft, I have been very fortunate
to have the opportunity to fly most of the Kolb models, including the FF. I
have been flying it at Sun and Fun and Oshkosh for the last 7 years. The
ultralight airstrip at Lakeland, in particular, is a very difficult place to
land and take off primarily because of the wind out of the south or north.
This is a direct cross wind to the 09/27 strip. The FF's I have been flying
have all had the shorter chord ailerons. If you have been to Lakeland
during S&F you know how active the wind is. At15 mph it seems to be
screaming as it tumbles along through open pastures and then over trees and
hedge rows, one paralleling the strip. Add constant take offs and landings
and one has a very challenging environment to fly. On occassion, the FF has
run out of aileron, i.e., the stick has hit the stop.
On my cross country flights I have often encountered winds 90 degrees to the
runway in 25 mph and above. At this velocity the rudder does not have the
authority to keep the aircraft aligned with the runway. When this happens I
find a spot to land into the wind or find another airport. Of course, I do
not have vortex generators, so that may be the reason I can't overcome 25
mph cross winds.
I am amazed at the capabilities of your FF based on the modifications you
have made to it. I would like to fly out to your airport and see if you can
give me some pointers on how to modify my MKIII to perform as well in cross
winds as your FF. Keep up the good work. Before long all of us will be
landing in 20 mph gusty and 25 mph steady cross winds.
john h
PS: That is a lot of wind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Kolb Landing Gear or Poor Pilot Technique |
Morning Gang:
All this discussion on Kolb inferior landing gear has gotten my attention.
If this is true, TNK must get a couple 18 wheeler loads of gear legs
delivered to the factory per day. I bet Travis has hired a new dedicated
Gear Leg Supply Specialist to get the legs out to the customers.
I don't know of any UL, experimental, or GA aircraft that is designed to be
beat to death and mishandled. Some are built stronger than others depending
on their intended use. Take a quick look through the FAA Preliminary
Accident Reports and the NTSB accident summaries. You may be surprised to
find at least half the accidents are failed landing gear caused by bad
landings. The other half are engine failures. Don't hold me to task on the
percentages. A very general estimate on my part.
Admit it Kolb pilots. Landing gear failures on Kolb aircraft are caused by
improper landing techiniques. A lot of us are screwing up the landings and
blaming it on the gear. I read what a great pilot some of you low time Kolb
pilots are in other aircraft, but have trouble putting a little Kolb
airplane on the ground without breaking it. Sounds like poor technique to
me. Real airplane manufacturers don't require their aircraft to survive a
10 ft drop test, yet some of us Kolb test pilots think Kolb landing gear
should stand up to this kind of abuse. Admit it Kolb pilots. We screwed up
the landing.
TNK is not responsible for the way you land your Kolb!
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jack & Louise Hart <jbhart(at)ldd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly Cross Wind Capability |
>
>
>I am amazed at the capabilities of your FF based on the modifications you
>have made to it. I would like to fly out to your airport and see if you can
>give me some pointers on how to modify my MKIII to perform as well in cross
>winds as your FF. Keep up the good work. Before long all of us will be
>landing in 20 mph gusty and 25 mph steady cross winds.
>
>john h
>
>PS: That is a lot of wind.
>
FireFlyers & Kolbers,
K02 (Perryville, Missouri) is where my FireFly will reside until about mid
May. Then its new home will be PLD (Portland, Indiana). Anyone who wishes
to see it is welcome to come and look at it. If we can get the hangar doors
open, I will demo it for you. Send me an off list email so we can schedule
a time to get together.
It is easy to learn how to make and practice cross wind landing techniques.
On a day with the wind straight down the runway, take off and climb to
altitude. Then start to fly 90 degrees to the cross wind using a section
line, road or fence as a runway guide. Use the rudder to maintain a heading
parallel to the runway guide and use the ailerons to slip left or right to
stay over the center line. Start out doing this at cruise speed, and then
reduce power to fly slower and slower. At some point you will not be able
to stay over the center line due to insufficient aileron or rudder. This
illustrates why it is important to keep up your speed during cross wind
landings. Then using an airport that has a cross wind runway, fly the
runway but do not land. This gives you good practice. Start out with lower
cross winds and work your way up. It will take some time, but it will give
you confidence that if you take a trip during the day and the wind shifts
you can make a safe landing upon return.
K02 is located in the Mississippi River bottoms with a 02/20 runway. Winds
out of the west form rotors as they pass over the bluff and come down in the
bottom land. Also the hangars are west of the runway. I use a narrow 1000'
taxiway that is parallel to the runway and closer to the hangars as a
runway. I can be quite active with the stick getting down until I get into
ground effect. Then much of the business goes away after the flare.
To compare my FireFly with the TNK FireFly is a bit of a stretch. With full
enclosure, large wheels and brakes plus a chute and much more paint, it must
weigh at least twenty pounds more than mine. No way will they perform the
same.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Jackson, MO
Jack & Louise Hart
jbhart(at)ldd.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar Gear main spar,prop :( |
In a message dated 2/26/2005 5:21:38 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mmatuszczak(at)cfl.rr.com writes:
The gear leg did go up into the socket about 5".
I think it should go up about 10" or so. The gear legs Kolb supplies now are
the proper length.
Howard Shackleford
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Garvelink" <link(at)cdc.net> |
I believe this is new saw it on google.
Steve
Estate Sale
Kolb Ultrastar with JLO/Cuyuna engine W/trailer needs work. No history
on this or the following : collection of MX parts probably equal to two
MX's some parts missing or damaged ,one instrument pod, two spare JLO?
Engines one MX cowling. buyer take all. Call 301-831-9004 for inspection
and make offer.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 3/1/2005 7:37:40 AM Eastern Standard Time,
dsel1(at)bellsouth.net writes:
I was under the impression that spats on an airplane are those things used
on aerobatic planes that are attached to the outer ends on the ailerons and
hang down.
Spades.
Howard Shackleford
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Another Sensitive Reader |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net>
John,
It must be nice to know everything about everything. It seems that
your main goal on the Kolb list is to put down as many as you can.
Just from what I've read from you on the list, I hope I never have the
misopportunity to meet you in person.
Dale Sellers
GA UltraStar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Only problem is I need to hold quite a bit of right rudder to keep
straight
| at higher power settings, guess I will offset the thrust line a bit
to
| compensate (don't like trim tabs). Any suggestions from you guys who
have
| experience with this engine option would be helpful.
|
| Mike
Hi Mike/All:
Most of us have been through the adverse yaw problem with the MKIII.
I tried offsetting thrust line, offsetting leading edge of the upper
vertical stabilizer, in addition to a rudder trim tab that was only
half as large as it should have been. In the end, I now have the
engine thrust line straight ahead, upper vertical stabilizer leading
edge is straight, and I increased the size of the rudder trim tab by
two. It is two rib bays tall and I can't remember the other
dimensions. Popped the trim tab the rudder ribs with large head
aluminum fabric rivets. Now, the ball is centered without pedal
pressure. Flew many hours a half ball out. Don't think the MKIII
cared one way or the other, whether she was in trim or out.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jimmy" <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
Those of you that are a member of the EAA, will someone try to access their
web site, I need some information on local chapters in Georgia, but cannot
access their web site www.eaa.org/
I need to know if I have a computer problem or they have a problem.
Thanks for any help.
Jimmy Hankinson
912-863-7384
Firefly 035
JYL (Sylvania)
Pegasus Field (Home)
2000 Feet X 100 Feet- Grass
Rocky Ford, Georgia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Sellers" <dsel1(at)bellsouth.net> |
Jimmy'
It must be them. I couldn't get it to open either.
DS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jimmy" <jhankin(at)planters.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Eaa
>
> Those of you that are a member of the EAA, will someone try to access
> their
> web site, I need some information on local chapters in Georgia, but cannot
> access their web site www.eaa.org/
> I need to know if I have a computer problem or they have a problem.
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Jimmy Hankinson
> 912-863-7384
> Firefly 035
> JYL (Sylvania)
> Pegasus Field (Home)
> 2000 Feet X 100 Feet- Grass
> Rocky Ford, Georgia
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
> With the propensity of lawsuits these days I would think they would
welcome
> advise on how to improve their product.>>
>
I bet Kolb gets a hundred ideas a year on how to improve their
product. Some may be owners wishfull thinking other ideas may have been
tried. The original design has proven itself. If you want to make changes go
for it. I did. Saying there is a problem with the landing gear is like
saying there is a problem with fenders on my ex wifes car. They keep getting
bent. Not her fault of course, it just happens. Maybe Ford should make them
out of 1/4" steel.
----- Original Message -----
From: <HShack(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Spats...
>
> In a message dated 3/1/2005 7:37:40 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> dsel1(at)bellsouth.net writes:
> I was under the impression that spats on an airplane are those things used
> on aerobatic planes that are attached to the outer ends on the ailerons
and
> hang down.
>
> Spades.
>
> Howard Shackleford
> FS II
> SC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne T. McCullough" <blackbird754(at)alltel.net> |
Jimmy,
Please contact me if you cannot upload our web page...EAA chapter 330 is
loading and working fine for me from the national web site.
Wayne McCullough
EAA chapter 330
912-754-9598
blackbird754(at)alltel.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jimmy" <jhankin(at)planters.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Eaa
>
> Those of you that are a member of the EAA, will someone try to access
> their
> web site, I need some information on local chapters in Georgia, but cannot
> access their web site www.eaa.org/
> I need to know if I have a computer problem or they have a problem.
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Jimmy Hankinson
> 912-863-7384
> Firefly 035
> JYL (Sylvania)
> Pegasus Field (Home)
> 2000 Feet X 100 Feet- Grass
> Rocky Ford, Georgia
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Lavigne" <pjl53(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Firestar II For Sale |
FOR SALE Kolb Firestar
Rotax 447 with 42 Hrs. total time on engine and airframe
Ivo 3 blade ground adjustable prop
EIS
Icom IC-A4 radio w/ headset and helmet
Lowrance GPS
Lexan wing gap seal
full encloser plus semi-shorty wind shield, and shorty windshield
drum brakes
many,many extra's
$12,625.00
contact:
Pat LaVigne
Rochester,N.Y.
(585)426-5463
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Lavigne" <pjl53(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fire star For Sale |
Sorry Kolbers,
I forgot to say that the plane is a Firestar II
Thanks,
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne T. McCullough" <blackbird754(at)alltel.net> |
Here is the updated link as our webpage has changed. Please make a note of
it....
http://astro.armstrong.edu/~mcculeri/eaa.html
My daughter is working on this(as a college class) as she has become my
personal webmaster. LOL
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne T. McCullough" <blackbird754(at)alltel.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Eaa
>
>
> Jimmy,
>
> Please contact me if you cannot upload our web page...EAA chapter 330 is
> loading and working fine for me from the national web site.
>
>
> Wayne McCullough
> EAA chapter 330
> 912-754-9598
> blackbird754(at)alltel.net
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jimmy" <jhankin(at)planters.net>
> To:
> Subject: Kolb-List: Eaa
>
>
>>
>> Those of you that are a member of the EAA, will someone try to access
>> their
>> web site, I need some information on local chapters in Georgia, but
>> cannot
>> access their web site www.eaa.org/
>> I need to know if I have a computer problem or they have a problem.
>>
>> Thanks for any help.
>>
>> Jimmy Hankinson
>> 912-863-7384
>> Firefly 035
>> JYL (Sylvania)
>> Pegasus Field (Home)
>> 2000 Feet X 100 Feet- Grass
>> Rocky Ford, Georgia
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Pierzina <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Speaking of useful "ideas" |
Hey Guys,
Here's an idea that I wish somebody would have had while I was
building....
"Mock" stub wings.... I didn't then... and don't now....have room to stretch
out the wings on the cage while I was building in the garage....in order to make
my gap seal bettween the wings I had to wait for nice weather....push out the
plane....set it up....
Later, when I work on making the Full enclosure ( that'll be another
Original) I'll need to have the wings "set-up" again.....
Even if I could "RENT" a set of those stub wings, I would have.....I wish
I would have built something like that earlier.....too late now ....it wouldn't
be worth the time involved for what little I have left.....
Well, at least "I" think it would be a good idea......
Gotta Fly...
Mike in MN
PS John, Your still my Hero !
My Web Site:
http://www.geocities.com/planecrazzzy/Planecrazzzy.html
Sometimes you just have to take the leap and build your wings on the way down...
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
John H. and Group,
I like the attitude working together to solve the
landing gear problem. And I do think it is a problem.
Not a big one, but still a problem. But in this case,
the problem is already solved. John Hauck solved it
years ago and has done an extreme amount of testing to
prove it. It would be nice if TNK offered a steel
gear upgrade, but I'm giving up on waiting for that.
It's time for me to add some of that well tested Hauck
design to my Firestar.
So, I know what steel to order and to get it heat
treated to RC48, but how do I attached the axles and
get them at the right angle?
John Jung
Firestar II
Surprise, AZ
__________________________________
http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
This is the 3rd day that I have been trying to post.
If this gets through, I'll have an idea what the
problem is. Sorry for the extra post.
John Jung
__________________________________
http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
John's setup has been well proven and works very well. Seems to me that
someone said recently that TNK has made a steel gear available, so you might
check into that. If not, check my website under Building Vamoose/Trailer
and Landing Gear, and under Single Pictures/Landing Gear 1. Looks like I've
got some updating to do there to get it all together. I went my route
because of the narrow trailer - I'm too stubborn to look for a wider
trailer. John's experience made it much easier to work out my own solution.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jung" <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Landing Gear Legs
>
> John H. and Group,
>
> I like the attitude working together to solve the
> landing gear problem. And I do think it is a problem.
> Not a big one, but still a problem. But in this case,
> the problem is already solved. John Hauck solved it
> years ago and has done an extreme amount of testing to
> prove it. It would be nice if TNK offered a steel
> gear upgrade, but I'm giving up on waiting for that.
> It's time for me to add some of that well tested Hauck
> design to my Firestar.
>
> So, I know what steel to order and to get it heat
> treated to RC48, but how do I attached the axles and
> get them at the right angle?
>
> John Jung
> Firestar II
> Surprise, AZ
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
Since John H. can certainly land like a butterfly, he probably built
his steel legs just to kill time between adventures.
Ray Anderson
Ray A/Gang:
You said all the above, not me.
For those that know me, they know I readily admit my aviating
mistakes. I have bent aluminum and steel legs on my aircraft.
However, never bent an aluminum gear leg on factory or private owners
Kolbs I have had the privilege to fly.
Have you had the opportunity to fly with Kolb aluminum gear legs?
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | russ kinne <kinnepix(at)earthlink.net> |
In re the landing-gear discussion; I freely admit I have almost no
experience in a Kolb; but please remember that in any dynamic system
there will be a 'weak link' that will fail first. With a standard
Kolb aircraft, that will be the landing gear leg. If you make that a
lot stronger, then it will be the leg socket and cage assembly. Much
better to have a fairly cheap and easy-to-replace gear leg fail, than
to have the cage itself require repairs.
I handled Brian's new and improved gear leg at the Kolb factory, and it
seemed to me to be too strong but as I mentioned, I'm not
qualified to judge.
Just please remember that SOMETHING has to give, always; and you'll be
a lot happier if it's something fairly cheap & easy to replace.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
| Not a big one, but still a problem. But in this case,
| the problem is already solved. John Hauck solved it
| years ago and has done an extreme amount of testing to
| prove it.
]| So, I know what steel to order and to get it heat
| treated to RC48, but how do I attached the axles and
| get them at the right angle?
|
| John Jung
Hi John J/Gang:
I haven't solved the landing gear problem. All I did, with the help
of Brother Jim Hauck, was design, fabricate, and experiment with 4130
gear legs to satisfy my requirements for my style of flying, which is
probably a bit more agressive than the average Kolb flyer. I enjoy
landing out, in many places, most isolated, and need the comfort of
knowing if I screw up a landing I can still get back home. I screwed
up a landing in Muncho Lake, BC, 1 July 2000, that stranded me a long
way from Alabama. Since that time, Brother Jim and I agreed on a fix
that has gotten me back to Alaska twice, surviving some awfully
screwed up landings that would have failed lesser landing gear. Might
add, it was a big learning curve trying to learn how to land at 9,927
feet above sea level. I beat the poor old MKIII to death landing and
taking off at Leadville, CO.
I don't do anything to my airplane to try and change Kolb or others,
but throughout my experience flying, breaking, and experimenting with
Kolbs, some of it has worn off on production Kolbs. Many of those
changes were incorporated when Bro Jim went up to old Kolb for a three
month period to help Homer, who had lost all his welders due to
accident and illness. During that time period I spent a month helping
Homer in the day time and at night Jim and I built the fuselage for
the MKIII. What we did the night before, Homer would look at the next
morning when he came in. Homer has blessed everything Jim and I have
done to his aircraft. I could not have done any of this without Bro
Jim. I come up with the requirement and Jim comes up with the
solution, then produces it for me. I am a lucky man to have a brother
like Jim.
The failure at Muncho Lake, BC, was not a gear leg problem, but a gear
leg socket failure. In February 1991, when Jim was fabricating the
MKIII gear at Kolb, he wanted to weld the axle socket to the gear leg,
rather than use the system Kolb used, which was the gear leg/axle
socket. Kolb's system worked easiest to align the main gear, and the
reason I wanted to go that route. Jim knew which system was most
durable, but gave into my wishes. Hind sight says I wish I had gone
with Jim's idea instead of mine. The fix after Muncho Lake was welded
axle socket to gear leg, align, drill, then heat treat. Those gear
legs have been thoroughly tested, used and abused in the roughest
environment available between here and Point Barrow. I pulled them
off the MKIII prior to my last flight to Alaska to press the bend out
of them. They are still working well.
We got the correct angle to weld up the gear leg/axle sockets by
blocking up the fuselage, measuring the angle from floor to gear leg,
then adding a few degrees for positive camber to allow for the gear
legs to take a set after they get broken in good. Don't know how many
time I can bend the kinks out of them. Will have to see how well I
can learn to "land like a butterfly"!!!
john h
PS: John J, if you need more help with the steel gear, let me know.
I'll do what I can to help you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
Group,
Here is why I am interested in changing gear legs: For
me, they usually bend near the axle and change the
camber of the wheel, and sometimes the amount of toe
in/out. That doesn't make much difference on grass,
but I suspect that it does on pavement, which I now
fly from. I can't complain about the money I have
spent on gear legs in 9 years of flying Firestars, nor
the time it takes to change them. It is just one thing
that isn't as good as the rest of the plane. I would
be satisifed with aluminum gear, if the taper were
less or they were straight (no taper).
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
Surprise, AZ
__________________________________
http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
| I would
| be satisifed with aluminum gear, if the taper were
| less or they were straight (no taper).
|
| John Jung
John J/Gang:
IIRC the Kolb gear legs are 1 1/8 7075 aluminum rod. I looked on
Aircraft Spruce online catalog, but not listed.
I have a catalog around here somewhere which I think list 7075 alum
rod. I see no reason why you can not get it cut the desired length.
You will have to change your gear leg/axle socket to accept the 1 1/8"
gear leg. Any decent welding shop can weld these up for you with a
TIG. You can cut the leg and axle sockets with your hacksaw. If the
taper is the weak point, I would surely take it out and try that.
It is more expensive to build 4130 gear legs because of the additional
step of heat treating.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Pearce" <rap(at)isp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
I just recieved my new steel gear legs 3 weeks ago. TNK is delivering new
heat treated steel gear legs on all the new Kolbs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jung" <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Landing Gear Legs
>
> John H. and Group,
>
> I like the attitude working together to solve the
> landing gear problem. And I do think it is a problem.
> Not a big one, but still a problem. But in this case,
> the problem is already solved. John Hauck solved it
> years ago and has done an extreme amount of testing to
> prove it. It would be nice if TNK offered a steel
> gear upgrade, but I'm giving up on waiting for that.
> It's time for me to add some of that well tested Hauck
> design to my Firestar.
>
> So, I know what steel to order and to get it heat
> treated to RC48, but how do I attached the axles and
> get them at the right angle?
>
> John Jung
> Firestar II
> Surprise, AZ
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| how about some closeup shots of those strong,sexy legs! I
mean the landing gear:)
|
| wade fs #1030
Wade/Gang:
Too late tonight to get some good shots of the MKIII gear legs. This
url has a bunch of shots of the MKIII. Gear legs are shown in most of
the pics.
I have some shots of the gear legs on my old Firestar. Will have to
dig them out later.
http://home.elmore.rr.com/jhauck/Knik%20River%20Alaska/
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Landing Gear Legs |
| From: | "Rex Rodebush" <rrodebush(at)tema.net> |
I also ordered and just received the new steel gears from TNK for my
Mark III X-tra. I was planning to modify the cage and add steel gear
similar to what John Hauck had done. However, I talked to Norm at TNK
fly-in and he seemed happy with the new design. I have tundra tires and
he thought that would be a nice setup.
I guess the jury is still out on the long term success of this new gear.
The nice thing is that the cage requires no modifications. Anyway, I
decided to spend the money and take a chance. If you want to see how
the gear looks check the photo gallery section under the Mark III at
TNK's web site. It sets up higher and "appears" to be slightly more
forward but I can't be sure.
Rex Rodebush
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | FW: Landing Gear Legs |
| From: | "Rex Rodebush" <rrodebush(at)tema.net> |
I forgot to mention......I plan to sleeve and extend the gear legs if
required to make sure they go all the way up into the sockets to spread
the load.
Rex Rodebush
From: Rex Rodebush
Subject: Landing Gear Legs
I also ordered and just received the new steel gears from TNK for my
Mark III X-tra. I was planning to modify the cage and add steel gear
similar to what John Hauck had done. However, I talked to Norm at TNK
fly-in and he seemed happy with the new design. I have tundra tires and
he thought that would be a nice setup.
I guess the jury is still out on the long term success of this new gear.
The nice thing is that the cage requires no modifications. Anyway, I
decided to spend the money and take a chance. If you want to see how
the gear looks check the photo gallery section under the Mark III at
TNK's web site. It sets up higher and "appears" to be slightly more
forward but I can't be sure.
Rex Rodebush
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Landing Gear Legs |
| I forgot to mention......I plan to sleeve and extend the gear legs
if
| required to make sure they go all the way up into the sockets to
spread
| the load.
|
| Rex Rodebush
Rex/Gang:
Good idea.
I learned the hard way. My original steel gear were placed in the
same position inside the socket per plans and instructions. The end
result, after landing at 10 feet in a weed patch with engine out on
Grand Island, NY, in 1988, resulted in sheared gear leg socket at the
end of the leg, which, in turn, tore out the tube cluster around the
base of the socket.
Good luck with your new gear.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: Landing Gear Legs |
| Anyway how did you go about rebuilding the
| tube cluster? |
| The Flying Farmer............opps, I mean the repairing landing gear
| Farmer
Morning Dwight:
I have no expertise in that area, other than being a "go'fer" for Bro
Jim. He is the Kolb airframe expert in the family. He got enough
experience on the Ultrastar cage to move right into rebuilds on the FS
cage.
Bro Jim secured the cage to a rafter in the shop by the main spar
carry through tube. This was his base or starting point. In order to
insure the cage would come out true, so that wings and landing gear
would fit like it was supposed to, he had to have this start point
which was leveled and squared up.
From there he went about cutting and replacing tubes in the order the
fuselage was fabricated originally.
Wish I could be more help, but this job fell on Bro Jim's shoulders
and not my own. I am responsible for breaking. Jim for rebuilding.
Thank goodness I haven't broken one in 4.5 years. Well, last time he
only had to rebuild the left main gear mounting structure and new gear
legs with axle sockets. ;-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
John J,
I used Mr Haucks idea as well and have been very happy with
the gear legs.
I took the axel fittings from the old alum gear legs and had
them welded to the new tubular legs. The only thing is my
Mark III was in rehab with no fabric so I loaded it up on a
trailer and took it to the weld shop. The welder ran a tube
through the fittings while in place to get the alignment and
then welded them while on the AC. I did not put enough
camber in them so the wheels angled out a little, I have now
used another JH procedure and bent them down with a short
piece of water pipe...looks good and flys good.
Gary Haley, Kolb Mark IIIc 912ULS
Dry Creek Airport, Cypress, TX (NW Houston)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
Rick...
You mention steel gear on all the new kolbs...does this include the FireFly?
Don Gherardini
OEM.Sales / Engineering dept.
American Honda Engines
Power Equipment Company
CortLand, Illinois
800-626-7326
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Jung <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | This time of year |
Group,
This is the time of year that we are more likely to
feel criticized and take offense to things written on
the list. The cure is springtime, and it is coming.
But in the meantime, I suggest that we all try to cut
each other some slack.
John Jung
__________________________________
http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
All I KNow for sure is the Mark 3 Classic. When I bought my fusalage they
asked me if I wanted the new gear legs. They were back ordered for two or
three months. They have a bend in them and stand alot higher than the
std.
>
> Rick...
> You mention steel gear on all the new kolbs...does this include the
> FireFly?
>
> Don Gherardini
> OEM.Sales / Engineering dept.
> American Honda Engines
> Power Equipment Company
> CortLand, Illinois
> 800-626-7326
>
>
-----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | terry <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
| Subject: | Balancer Masters |
I just finished remounting my wood Tennessee prop after checking the balance again.
Of
course it was still dead on, but not being able to fly a fellow has to do something.
Also I wanted to make sure my cutting the prop tips to eliminate noise hadn't disturbed
the balance. Waiting for the Alberta Clippers to stop coming our way in the
northeast. Can't you Canadians do something about that!!
While I was torqueing up the prop bolts, I got to wondering if any one else is
using
Balance Masters for the prop and the magneto end of the engine. I have a FireFly
with
a 447 pushing me along. I know I'm the only one in the local group using them
and I
was looking for other input. I'm pretty well convinced that I get a smoother
performance using them.
Terry - FireFly #95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | terry <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
| Subject: | Fathers Day Fly-in |
On another note, while I sit here wishing I was up there! I couldn't help but
think
about the good flying weather that will come with spring & summer.
As of now, this is the list of people that have expressed interest in joining us
at
Homer and Clara's farm on the Saturday 18th. of the Fathers Day weekend in June:
Steve Green
Denny Rowe
Chuck Davis
Charlie Blackwell
Gene Zimmerman
Earl Zimmerman
Tim
Bob Griffin
Bob Pongrazz
John Hauck
Bill Varnes Tom Ohara
Ken james
George Alexander
If there are others let me know. I know Clara will be hitting me up eventually
to get
an idea of how many might come. Looking forward to another grand time at the Kolb
farm. Last year is going to be hard to beat!!!
Terry - FireFly #95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | terry <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
Don Gherardini wrote:
>
> Rick...
> You mention steel gear on all the new kolbs...does this include the FireFly?
>
> Don Gherardini
> OEM.Sales / Engineering dept.
> American Honda Engines
> Power Equipment Company
> CortLand, Illinois
>
Don,
I don't know if they are, but I made a set for my FireFly 3 years ago using John
Hauck's information only I stepped them down using two different diameters to fit
the
wheel socket.. They have worked well for me!
Terry - FireFly
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Silver Fern Microlights Ltd" <kiwimick(at)sfmicro.fsnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs |
All,
TNK have definately got a new steel gear leg, looks good and fits into the
existing sockets.
Mike
G-CDFA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Landing Gear Legs
>
> John's setup has been well proven and works very well. Seems to me that
> someone said recently that TNK has made a steel gear available, so you
> might
> check into that. If not, check my website under Building Vamoose/Trailer
> and Landing Gear, and under Single Pictures/Landing Gear 1. Looks like
> I've
> got some updating to do there to get it all together. I went my route
> because of the narrow trailer - I'm too stubborn to look for a wider
> trailer. John's experience made it much easier to work out my own
> solution.
> Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Building Kolb Mk III
> N78LB Vamoose
> www.gogittum.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Jung" <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Landing Gear Legs
>
>
>>
>> John H. and Group,
>>
>> I like the attitude working together to solve the
>> landing gear problem. And I do think it is a problem.
>> Not a big one, but still a problem. But in this case,
>> the problem is already solved. John Hauck solved it
>> years ago and has done an extreme amount of testing to
>> prove it. It would be nice if TNK offered a steel
>> gear upgrade, but I'm giving up on waiting for that.
>> It's time for me to add some of that well tested Hauck
>> design to my Firestar.
>>
>> So, I know what steel to order and to get it heat
>> treated to RC48, but how do I attached the axles and
>> get them at the right angle?
>>
>> John Jung
>> Firestar II
>> Surprise, AZ
>>
>>
>> __________________________________
>> http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Garvelink" <link(at)cdc.net> |
| Subject: | Balancer Masters |
http://www.balancemasters.com/ultralights.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of terry
Subject: Kolb-List: Balancer Masters
I just finished remounting my wood Tennessee prop after checking the
balance again. Of
course it was still dead on, but not being able to fly a fellow has to
do something.
Also I wanted to make sure my cutting the prop tips to eliminate noise
hadn't disturbed
the balance. Waiting for the Alberta Clippers to stop coming our way in
the
northeast. Can't you Canadians do something about that!!
While I was torqueing up the prop bolts, I got to wondering if any one
else is using
Balance Masters for the prop and the magneto end of the engine. I have
a FireFly with
a 447 pushing me along. I know I'm the only one in the local group
using them and I
was looking for other input. I'm pretty well convinced that I get a
smoother
performance using them.
Terry - FireFly #95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi(at)supernet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fathers Day Fly-in |
terry wrote:
>
> On another note, while I sit here wishing I was up there! I couldn't help but
think
> about the good flying weather that will come with spring & summer.
>
> As of now, this is the list of people that have expressed interest in joining
us at
> Homer and Clara's farm on the Saturday 18th. of the Fathers Day weekend in June:
>
> Steve Green
> Denny Rowe
> Chuck Davis
> Charlie Blackwell
> Gene Zimmerman
> Earl Zimmerman
> Tim
> Bob Griffin
> Bob Pongrazz
> John Hauck
> Bill Varnes Tom Ohara
> Ken james
> George Alexander
>
> If there are others let me know. I know Clara will be hitting me up eventually
to get
> an idea of how many might come. Looking forward to another grand time at the
Kolb
> farm. Last year is going to be hard to beat!!!
>
> Terry - FireFly #95
Terry I think that Joel is interested in coming. And I would guess that
Wilmer and Jeff would come too. But then you probably talked to them
since I have. How was the breakfast the other week? ~ Earl
--
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "woody" <duesouth(at)govital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Balancer Masters |
Waiting for the Alberta Clippers to stop coming our way in the
> northeast. Can't you Canadians do something about that!!
>
That would be stoping the most valued custom of the canadian race. We use
those winds every year so that when we put our elderly on ice flows they
have a favourable and speedy trip to the ancestors.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Balancer Masters |
----- Original Message -----
From: "terry" <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Balancer Masters
> While I was torqueing up the prop bolts, I got to wondering if any one
> else is using
> Balance Masters for the prop and the magneto end of the engine. I have a
> FireFly with
> a 447 pushing me along. I know I'm the only one in the local group using
> them and I
> was looking for other input. I'm pretty well convinced that I get a
> smoother
> performance using them.
>
> Terry - FireFly #95
>
>
Terry,
I have one on the prop of my Mk-3, I took it off last summer to see any
differance, turned around before I got to the runway and put it back on, it
really made a big diff.
Denny Rowe, Mk-3, 690L-70, 3 blade Powerfin F model
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Cowan <trc1917(at)direcway.com> |
| Subject: | Re: warp drive prop |
was wondering if anyone has any actual working knowledge of a swap from an
IVO three blade to a warp drive three blade prop on a SlingShot. Would like
imput. By the looks of the new KOLB legs, they are a cut down version of
the SlingShot legs. Gotta tell ya, if they are, they are strong and work
well. Ted Cowan. By the way, would anyone want to trade for the IVO with a
warp? What length of blade on the 582?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom O'Hara" <tohara(at)alphagraphics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fathers Day Fly-in |
For maybe one or two of us who might not have a Kolb to fly in with, could
someone post driving directions? I don't think we will see the airport
marked on a PA DOT map!!! :)
Thanks
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "terry" <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: Fathers Day Fly-in
>
> On another note, while I sit here wishing I was up there! I couldn't help
but think
> about the good flying weather that will come with spring & summer.
>
> As of now, this is the list of people that have expressed interest in
joining us at
> Homer and Clara's farm on the Saturday 18th. of the Fathers Day weekend in
June:
>
> Steve Green
> Denny Rowe
> Chuck Davis
> Charlie Blackwell
> Gene Zimmerman
> Earl Zimmerman
> Tim
> Bob Griffin
> Bob Pongrazz
> John Hauck
> Bill Varnes Tom Ohara
> Ken james
> George Alexander
>
> If there are others let me know. I know Clara will be hitting me up
eventually to get
> an idea of how many might come. Looking forward to another grand time at
the Kolb
> farm. Last year is going to be hard to beat!!!
>
> Terry - FireFly #95
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bryan green <lgreen1(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: kolb friends |
Well said I removed the dna.
Bryan
Dana Labhart wrote:
>
>Dear Friends,
>
>It would be a "missed opportunity" in life if you do
>not get a chance to know Mr. Hauck. While he may
>seem a little gritty at times, he is always willing to
>share, help and "infect" people with aviation. It is the
>same endearing qualtiy my late husband had. I'm lucky
>to be able to "class" him with Mr. Hauck. It is this love
>of aviation why he posts to the list so much. I do think
>many of you appreciate what John has to offer along
>with myself and the entire sport. Keep up the good
>work John.
>
>Love ya,
>Dana Labhart
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rusty" <13brv3c(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | full swivel tailwheels |
I finally got around to measuring the break-out angle of the SS wheel, and
my Van's RV wheel. The RV measured 41 degrees, and the SS measured 43
degrees. Since these are rough eyeball type measurements, I think I can
conclude that there's no significant difference in the angle they break-out
at.
As another note of trivia, the RV spring looks to be about 5/8" (steel)
where the SS spring is 3/4" (aluminum). The RV tailwheels are less than
half the price of the "homebuilder special" wheels that Spruce sells, but
I'm not sure if there's enough meat on it to bore it out safely for the 3/4"
spring. The RV wheel assembly is all steel, where the Spruce assembly is
aluminum. The tailwheel on the current SS is sick, so it's going to need
some work, or more likely replacement with a Van's wheel.
Cheers,
Rusty (SS completely bare now)
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Bryan,
I have a 66 inch IVO that I took off of the float plane. I have a two blade
warp and a three blade kiev on order. I can't part with the ivo until I get
the other props in. I have to make sure that I have something on it for Sun n
Fun. If you still need it later let me know.
Steve Boetto
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | terry <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fathers Day Fly-in |
Tom O'Hara wrote:
>
> For maybe one or two of us who might not have a Kolb to fly in with, could
> someone post driving directions? I don't think we will see the airport
> marked on a PA DOT map!!! :)
>
>
Tom,
Good point! I will post driving directions as well as the coordinates to Homer
and
Clara's farm when we get closer to that date. Homers field is on the sectionals
of
both Washington and New York. Look just northwest of Phila.
Lot's of time left for that. If I post them now they will be forgotten and will
need
to be done again. More info as we get near that time!
Terry - FireFly #95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob N." <ronoy(at)shentel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Legs aka Weld |
Arc no.
do not arc hive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Marsh <nellypup_29(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | flapperons and other |
I have a firestar 1985/86 vintage tha I am
re-building. I am a glider pilot and have flown power.
I am used to either flaps or spoilers for landing.
I was told by the guy I bought my firestar from that
it had flapperons on it but from the plans and parts I
have to work with I don't see anything that looks like
flapperons. I have seen disussion in this group about
flapperons. I sure don't know much about them.
Any info is appreciated.
Mike
__________________________________
http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | pic new gear leg |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Pearce" <rap(at)isp.com> |
| Subject: | pic new gear leg |
I don't know what I'm doing so I hope it went through. I sent it to photoshare@matronics.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | pic new gear leg |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David L. Bigelow" <dlbigelow(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar 2 speeds |
My FS 2 stalls between 30 and 35. Minimum sink speed is about 38, and best glide
(also best climb speed) is about 44. That's all in mph - not knots.
Depending on your static port position, there can be considerable airspeed indicator
error. When I did my test flights, I temporarily mounted a Hall meter as
a cross check.
On the first flight before shooting any landings, do a few stalls and note the
speed. For landing approach speed, multiply the stall speed by 1.5 for smooth
air approaches. If it's gusty, add the amount of the gusts up to 10 mph. IE
a 30 mph stall - smooth air approach at 45 mph.
Dave Bigelow
FS 2
Kamuela, Hawaii
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flapperons and other |
At 09:47 PM 3/8/2005, you wrote:
>
>I have a firestar 1985/86 vintage tha I am
>re-building. I am a glider pilot and have flown power.
>I am used to either flaps or spoilers for landing.
>I was told by the guy I bought my firestar from that
>it had flapperons on it but from the plans and parts I
>have to work with I don't see anything that looks like
>flapperons. I have seen disussion in this group about
>flapperons. I sure don't know much about them.
>
>Any info is appreciated.
>
> Mike
Those planes didn't have any flaps or flapperons, I'm sure
that's why you can't find them.
Better check the rivets in the wings if you haven't already.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Kroll <muso2080(at)yahoo.com> |
List,
I've developed a symptom with my 503 SCSI with 250 hours.
after having the throttle set in any postion above idle, when I bring the throttle
back to idle, it takes awhile for the throttle to respond, as if the cable
itself is sticking in it's housing. I don't want to tear it down until I have
as many ideas about it as I can get from you guys. My logic here is that this
might be one of those things that lot's of people have experienced in the past
and that knowlege could save me countless hours of piddling with it. Thanks
in advance for any help you can give me.
Steve Kroll
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | terry <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Balancer Masters |
Denny Rowe wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "terry" <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net>
> To: "kolb-list"
> Subject: Kolb-List: Balancer Masters
>
>
> > While I was torqueing up the prop bolts, I got to wondering if any one
> > else is using
> > Balance Masters for the prop and the magneto end of the engine. I have a
> > FireFly with
> > a 447 pushing me along. I know I'm the only one in the local group using
> > them and I
> > was looking for other input. I'm pretty well convinced that I get a
> > smoother
> > performance using them.
> >
> > Terry - FireFly #95
> >
> >
> Terry,
> I have one on the prop of my Mk-3, I took it off last summer to see any
> differance, turned around before I got to the runway and put it back on, it
> really made a big diff.
> Denny Rowe, Mk-3, 690L-70, 3 blade Powerfin F model
February 10, 2005 - March 09, 2005
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-fh