Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-fz
March 27, 2006 - April 23, 2006
the nose-up pitch and resultant high AOA for the wing to stall. How does he think
the pilot gets this high AOA if the tail has stalled?
If the VGs on the BOTTOM of the stabilizer increase downward lift, then the improved
downward lift would lower the tail, not raise it. Is this guy even a pilot????
Ignorance is not a sin, but ignorance masquerading as expertise is dangerous.
Thom in Buffalo
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=24517#24517
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt(at)kilocharlie.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Older Pilots |
She had around 58,000 hours when she
| quit instructing. Evelyn Johnson is her name.
|
| Steven Green
I'll place Miss Evelyn right up there along side my friend Ed Long.
Ed died in his early 80's. However, when Ed died, he has more flying
hours than any other person on earth, 63,000 I believe. Will have to
go look it up. NOTE: Can not find any info on Ed Long and his
record. Far as I know, he still holds that record for most flight
time.
Had the honor of flying in my MKIII with Ed Long. He liked the way it
flew, but did not like the seat. Well, since that flight, I fixed the
left seat to be a tad more comfortable.
john h
PS: While I was searching for Ed Long's record, I did find that an 82
year old man in Ireland solo'd a Robinson helicopter. Now that is
indicative of how old farts fall apart. I sure this elderly gentleman
is an exception.
I'll bet you know this, but if you go into the FBO at MGM in Montgomery
you'll see a glass case that has all of Mr. Longs log books laid out
including the last one with the totals. They sort of set up a memorial
to the fellow. For those that don't know this fellow flew for the
regional power company (Alabama Power) and just got up every morning to
go fly the major powerlines to look for problems (trees, etc.) and also
everytime weather blew through the area, he'd be out buzzing through at
low level looking for what was keeping the lights out...
Jeremy Casey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Land Shorter VG's on Firestar II |
| In my experience something that suddenly stops
| producung lift falls down, not up.
|
| Pat
Depends on which direction it is lifting.
Doesn't have anything to do with which side of the road one drives on.
;-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Land Shorter VG's on Firestar II |
At 07:40 AM 3/27/2006, you wrote:
>
>This JOA guy has lost all credibility with me due to his statement
>about the tail stalling first causing the tail to be low.
I don't know about that - if you do a Google Search on
"horizontal stabilizer" & "vortex generators" you will find out
that everybody recommends putting them on the "bottom" of
the Horizontal stabilizer, not just this JOA guy. Even in the
GA planes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Land Shorter VG's on Firestar II |
On Mar 27, 2006, at 9:56 AM, HShack(at)aol.com wrote:
> I think I'm gonna' put 'em on my rudder, to.
Howard,
I think that could make a lot of sense.
All single seat Kolbs I ever flew had more than enough up elevator
control authority to stall the wing even with VGs. Any more up
control is totally useless, however there are times when it would be
good to have more rudder authority for cross wind landings.
The Kolb planes that would benefit most by having VGs on the
horizontal tail surfaces would be the early twinstar and Mark II
flying two up because of their smaller tail surfaces. The Mark III
was given larger tail surfaces and some feel that even they, in
certain situations, are marginal and could possibly receive some
benefit from additional up control by adding VGs to the bottom of
horizontal tail surface.
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt(at)kilocharlie.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Land Shorter VG's on Firestar II |
In normal configuration aircraft (i.e. non-canard or tandem wing
(Quickie)) the tail produces DOWN force...the center of lift is behind
the aircraft CG. The center of lift, being the fulcrum, being behind
the CG (i.e. the load being lifted) has to have a balancing load DOWN on
the tail to keep everything level. I hope there was just some
misunderstanding of these posts cause this should have been basic
groundschool to get any form of a pilots license.
Elevator "stall" and elevator "effectiveness" are possibly being
interchanged inappropriately here but the net result is the same...the
tail can't pull the nose up...
In regards to tail stalling...yes it can and does happen. I have seen
videos of the testing of an ATR passenger aircraft that was setup to
create icing on the tail...the look on the test pilots face was sheer
panic as the nose dropped and he was fully expecting it to happen.
Other forms of tailplane stall is common on tandem aircraft like the
RANS S7 I used to fly. Flying solo (front seat) and light fuel meant CG
was right at the forward limit...this meant that getting a 3 point
landing (i.e. full stall) was dang near impossible. This doesn't make
sense right? I mean heavy (2 up, heavy fuel) stalls faster right? Of
course it does, but heavy also moved the CG back which required less
downforce from the tail to balance everything. Flown heavy the plane
landed itself...flown solo and light meant you better wheel land it. As
you would go to flare the higher downforce requirements of the forward
CG and the slower speed (less ability of the tail to generate DOWNforce
or DOWNWARD LIFT...meant the tail wasn't capable of bringing the nose
up. The extreme limits of up elevator can cause the bottom surface of
the elevator you basically stall do to the air not being able to make
the bend around the fairly level horizontal stab and then around the
upward deflected elevator...VG's on the underside of the horizontal stab
can sometimes help this. (in defense of RANS around '96 or so they
enlarged the tail a bit and made the tail considerably more
powerful...was easy to get a full stall landing in any configuration...)
Remember the Ercoupe? It's main claim to fame of being unable to be
spun was just a function of limiting the elevator travel to the point
that it could not generate enough downforce to raise the nose high
enough to exceed the wings critical angle of attack...i.e. you couldn't
stall it...if you can't stall it you can't spin it.
Personally I think spins are fun...at least with some altitude they
are... ;-)
Jeremy Casey
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Learning to fly the Firestar |
| From: | "USArmy" <douglasarmy(at)lycos.com> |
I just got a used Firestar II. I have flown for years in the military and have
flown ultralights in the past but I have never flown a Kolb before. Can anyone
give me any suggestions on how I should go about learning to fly this type
of plane ?
Douglas
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=24577#24577
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Hallam" <vince(at)devonwindmills.co.uk> |
Cc:
| Subject: | a stall between 2 fools |
Dear Pat,
Do I read you right, you are flying tandem monoplanes ,flying fleas.
and canards.? Unfortunately all my life Ive flown proper aeroplanes either with
a tail or no tail atall, The only feature that stops them diveing to the ground
is either a CofG beyond aft limits ,or the down force aerodynamically generated
at the back of the whole caboodle.The tail is behaving like an upside
down wing, that is why it is symetric,or flat on top,If it stops sucking down
the tail goes up, and the nose goes down, It can stall ,but does so in the upside
down sense.Or are you pulling my willy??
Vnz Wilyflier
Vince Hallam
please phone rather than email for best results!
07941 313141
01803 316191
www.devonwindmills.co.uk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Noyer <a58r(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Land Shorter VG's on Firestar II aka tail stalling |
The early Cardinals with 150 hp and the so-called "all moving/flying
tail/hor stab" would get the tail stalled on landing. I almost bought
a '68 for leaseback, but after a few landings I cancelled. Just about
the time the wing was gettiing close to stalling, you could churn the
yoke around like mashing potatoes..,.not good. Cessna came out with
an AD that put slots in the hor stab leading edge. My '73 was great.
regards,
Bob N.
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George E. Thompson" <eagle1(at)commspeed.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Learning to fly the Firestar |
Be sure and get some duel instruction in ultralights.
Az. Bald Eagle
----- Original Message -----
From: "USArmy" <douglasarmy(at)lycos.com>
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2006 9:45 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Learning to fly the Firestar
>
> I just got a used Firestar II. I have flown for years in the military and
> have flown ultralights in the past but I have never flown a Kolb before.
> Can anyone give me any suggestions on how I should go about learning to
> fly this type of plane ?
>
> Douglas
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=24577#24577
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Gustafson" <agustafson(at)chartermi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Learning to fly the Firestar |
>>>until your wheels are within 6 feet of the ground.<<<
More like two feet!! There is no flair. If you're above stall speed and you
pull back on the stick, YOU GO UP, stall and then you go down. Maybe hard!
Just fly it to the ground.
Aaron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi(at)supernet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Land Shorter VG's on Firestar II |
Thom Riddle wrote:
>
> This JOA guy has lost all credibility with me due to his statement about the
tail stalling first causing the tail to be low.
Is this guy even a pilot????
Thom,
I think there must be some misunderstanding or misinterpretation here!
Joa owns and flys a Rans S7. www.landshorter.com ~ Earl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Hi Gang:
My buddy Steven Green wants to know what airfoil he should use on his
box kite. March is almost over and he wants to get some serious
flying in before the winds die down.
john h
MKIII with flat wing (on the bottom)
DO NOT ARHIVE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Noyer <a58r(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airfoils aka box kites |
In 1935 my friends and I made a so-called french War Kite: a 10' tall
box kite with wings, made from bamboo rug poles and much butcher
paper from one kid's father's meat store. Used all the clothes line
available (and made available). Won a week at Boy Scout Camp (=$7).
Later, fitted with a board seat hung some 50' from kite, the youngest
gang member was hoisted aloft...maybe 50-60' until his screams
alerted some of our mothers, and Phil was reeled in...never to fly
again.
regards,
Bob N.
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Land Shorter <landshorter2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Land Shorter VG's on Firestar II- reply from Joa |
Ok guys, I'll hop into the frying pan here. Normally I don't pipe up on the forums
too much (except the Rans forums) but John called and emailed me explaining
that there might be a little bit of confusion about why folks put VGs on the
tail.
Now granted, I'm just coming off a 12+ hour workday trying to certify the Kodiak
so I might be a little rummy here :)
Let me tell you what I saw on my S-7 (and similar to what I hear from many of
my customers) and maybe that will help explain the effect VGs have when you place
them on the hor stab....
Before I put VGs on the tail but had them on the wing I couldn't even get a full
stall, it would just mush. Granted my "minimum flying speed" was much better
than before I put the VGs on the wing but I still couldn't get a stall so I
knew I wasn't going as slow as I possibly could. Basically my elevator wasn't
effective enough to get my wing to a high enough angle of attack to stall now
that it had the VGs. As Jeremy correctly pointed out this is the same effect
that kept the Ercoupes from being able to stall the wing except that Fred Weick
did it by limiting elevator travel. The later Ercoupes (I use to own a G
model) could stall just dandy (but still not spin). In fact they have a very
sharp stall due to the NACA 5 digit airfoil and could really benefit from VGs.
Anybody want to do an STC?? Sorry, I'm off track....
Ok, so where I use to really notice it (besides the non-stall) is when landing
with someone in the back seat. I just didn't have the elevator authority to
quickly flare and arrest my sink rate and ended up having to come in a little
faster than normal and float a bit more so that I wouldn't bounce.
Well now after I've put VGs on the tail I definitely can get a stall if I slow
down to below the speed I was at before (with VGs just on the wing). In fact
if I put power to her I can get the nose up so high and hang on the prop so
much that it's downright scary and when it finally does stall it is very noticable
because you're going so slow. Of course you don't really need this extreme
of attitude unless you're doing a really aggressive flare on landing. This
is a great way to really get in short if you need to (but is of course harder
on your gear and airframe and it helps to have balloon tires). Pull up hard
and 3-point stall it on and get on the brakes so that your tail comes back up
and hold the brakes as hard as you can without nosing over (not to start a religious
debate between wheelies and 3-pointers but my experience is that a proper
aggressive 3-point with heavy braking will get you stopped a lot faster than
a tail high wheel landing). If you really want t
o see
some good sticks display this technique then buy the video "Big Rocks Long Props".
Those boys are amazing!
What happens is that when you are at a high angle of attack with the stick full
aft the air separates/breaks off at the hingeline on the underside of the stab
and reduces the amount of downforce the tail can provide to rotate the wing
to a higher angle of attack. I'm not positive the tail is actually fully "stalled"
in the way we think of a wing as stalling but it's easier to think of
it as just "not producing enough lift required to rotate the wing any more".
Anyway, that's my experience and I'm stickin' to it :) Here's the best part-
you can find out for yourself and I won't even charge you if they don't work
as advertised. So far not a single person has taken me up on my money back guarantee
because they haven't worked on the tail.
By the way, the certified plane that I'm working on has VGs on the tail too.
Hmm, wonder who designed them? :)
Oh, I'm definitely a pilot and if I'm in your neck of the woods (or you're in mine
in N Idaho) I would love to fly with any of you and we can go out and have
some dandy fun. It would help if you had big tires but even if you don't I'm
sure we can get in to some really fun places and put some of this talk into practice
:)
Speaking of... soon after SnF a bunch of the Rans guys are going to try to get
together somewhere around Alvord Desert (SE Oregon) or thereabouts and have
a little informal spring fly-in. We should get some Kolbs coming too. Once I
get a date and location I'll try to remember to let you all know. Lots of fun
:)
Joa
www.landshorter.com
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Land Shorter VG's on Firestar II |
| From: | "John Jung" <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
Group,
Joa did respond to the list last night. I should read everything before I reply
to anything in the morning. He changed the subject line.
Anyway, what he accomplished with VGs on the underside of the horizontal stab is
exactly the way my Firestar II flys now. So adding them to my stab would be
a waste of time and money.
--------
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
Surprise, AZ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=24771#24771
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Land Shorter VG's on Firestar II- reply from Joa |
| Speaking of... soon after SnF a bunch of the Rans guys are going to
try to get together somewhere around Alvord Desert (SE Oregon) or
thereabouts and have a little informal spring fly-in. We should get
some Kolbs coming too. Once I get a date and location I'll try to
remember to let you all know. Lots of fun :)
|
| Joa
The weekend between Mother's Day and Memorial Day, is reserved for the
Fourth Annual UnPlanned/Unorganized Kolb Flyin, Monument Valley, UT.
Everyone is welcome to attend.
Last year after the MV Flyin, several of us Kolbers flew to Moab, UT,
for a few days, then on up to Alvord Dessert for a few more days. Had
a ball, but it turned out to be marginal because of unusually high
water. However, we did have enough dry lake bed to fly off and camp
on.
Again, several of us plan on being in the area of the Alvord the week
following our MV Flyin, which is 19-21 May 2006. Might note, some of
us will arrive MV a day or two earlier than the unofficial start date
of 19 May.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Mr. Ladd is correct; our tail feathers hold the tail DOWN in flight since,
on our wing, the center of lift is BEHIND the center of gravity.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Forget VG's I have asked this before and not got a good response that
helped me understand.
I have been told, and cant say from where, that the center of lift of a wing
will be around the 25% of the cord. or around the thickest part of the
airfoil. On our kolbs that would be near the front wing attach point.
If that is true and the rear cg is allowed to go to 35% of the wing cord or
about 6 to 7 inches behind the front wing attach point.. Then the
horizontal tail surface would have to be I LIFTING surface. but we know
that the tail is designed to have negative lift to provide stability to the
aircraft. So if Mr. Ladd is correct,,, and the tail feathers hold the
tail down,,,, then the center of lift on our wings is not at 25%,,,, it
must be beyond 35% of the wing cord.
Am I missing something here?
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt(at)kilocharlie.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Land Shorter VG's on Firestar II |
The position that I am desperately trying to defend here is my
contention
that the tail plane alone does not exert lift. When the elevator is
applied
the tail plane/elevator combination DOES assume a rough airofoil shape
and
consequently produces some lift.
In that case with VG`s on the underside of the tailplane and the
elevator in
the `up` position they would do exactly what they do on the top of a
wing.
Keep the boundary layer from breaking away. That would increase the
effectiveness of the `up` elevator.
Can you prove or disprove?
Cheers
Pat
OK Pat...I'll answer your question with another question...if a "flat"
surface can't generate lift then how the heck did the Concorde ever fly?
(Or the Mirage, or F-102 Delta Dart)
Point being anything that can deflect air one way will produce lift (or
just call it FORCE) the other way...it's that old "For every action
there is an equal and opposite REACTION" thing...Newton wasn't it?
Jeremy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt(at)kilocharlie.us> |
Yep...the "center of lift" being at 25% chord doesn't take into account
the "moment" that the airfoil produces...if it has been awhile since
physics class, "moment" is a rotation...in regards to an airplane the
rotation is considered positive when it tries to rotate leading edge
down. So the combination of CG position AND the moment coefficient of
the airfoil determines how much downforce the tail has to produce...
Clear as mud?
Jeremy Casey
I have been told, and cant say from where, that the center of lift of a
wing
will be around the 25% of the cord. or around the thickest part of the
airfoil. On our kolbs that would be near the front wing attach point.
If that is true and the rear cg is allowed to go to 35% of the wing cord
or
about 6 to 7 inches behind the front wing attach point.. Then the
horizontal tail surface would have to be I LIFTING surface. but we know
that the tail is designed to have negative lift to provide stability to
the
aircraft. So if Mr. Ladd is correct,,, and the tail feathers hold the
tail down,,,, then the center of lift on our wings is not at 25%,,,,
it
must be beyond 35% of the wing cord.
Am I missing something here?
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Land Shorter VG's on Firestar II- reply from Joa |
> | Speaking of... soon after SnF a bunch of the Rans guys are going to
> try to get together somewhere around Alvord Desert (SE Oregon) or
> thereabouts and have a little informal spring fly-in. We should get
> some Kolbs coming too. Once I get a date and location I'll try to
> remember to let you all know. Lots of fun :)
To all,
The Alvord last year was indeed marginal because of high water. I do
believe that this year will be much the same. The south end of the desert
should be dry though.
My wife and I will be moving into the Rock house at Burns Jct. N42
40.751
W117 51.673 by May 1st. The place is on Hwy 95 between Burns ( 95 miles
north)and McDermott, Nev. (50 miles south) Jordan Valley is 38 miles east on
Hwy 95. Access is through a state gravel pit at MP 72. It has a 2600 foot
gravel strip and a 40x50 cinderblock hanger. It is located 30 miles (air)
east of the Alvord, and about 7 miles north of Rome State. Nearest neighbor
is at least a mile away, and the wind always seems to blow down the strip.
We of course would like to invite all of you to come there for a visit once
we have had a chance to get settled, or you could help us move. :-) It is
out in the desert, (sage) If you Rans guys would like to join us up there I
am sure you would be welcomed by everyone. Plenty of room to camp as well.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <rswiderski(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 4th Annual Sun & Fun Kolb Kathering |
Kalling all Kolbers:
]
Myself & George Randolph (Geo38) will be hosting a Kolb Kathering
Friday evening around 6pm till whenever. My white & green trimmed UL
trailer with RV awning will be in the UL trailer parking field which is
immediately east of the UL airstrip, so you'll still be able to sit & watch
the evening parade of ultralights. Usually we are at the east boundary of
that field next to the fence line.
Each year Kolb's best gather for a chance to put faces on the
familiar names we see on the List, do some serious hanger flying & just have
fun trading ideas or stories. Last year we built a fire in a bucket (open
fires are not allowed) using artificial logs that burned with black smut &
nasty smell on the downwind crowd. We learn from are mistakes so this year
our campfire will be charcoal & real wood.
If you arrive with a Kolb hat, a Kolb T-shirt, Kolb underwear or
even a Kolb smile, you will be eligible for free tube steaks grilled to your
specifications because there's a good chance you will be grilling your own
Kolb-dogs! We will provide the cheap food stove & a few
chairs & coolers to sit on, but bring your own chairs if you can. Several
guys got chased off by the cold evening air they weren't expecting, so bring
a long sleeved shirt.
We will be there hopefully Wednesday AM (slight chance it will be
Thursday AM) till Saturday late or Sunday early. If you need some supplies,
a place to sit in the shade, or a drink of ice water during that time, feel
to just drop by. If we are not there, just make yourself at home.
Richard Swiderski
SlingShot
Turbo Suzuki
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Land Shorter VG's on Firestar II- reply from Joa |
On Mar 28, 2006, at 1:21 AM, Land Shorter wrote:
> Ok, so where I use to really notice it (besides the non-stall) is
> when landing with someone in the back seat. I just didn't have the
> elevator authority to quickly flare and arrest my sink rate and
> ended up having to come in a little faster than normal and float a
> bit more so that I wouldn't bounce.
Joa,
You seem to be saying you need more elevator authority to flare with
someone in the back seat than you do solo, is that correct?
If so, that must mean that the back seat on your Rans airplane is
still in front of the center of lift.
A Kolb Firestar II puts the weight of the back seat passenger very
close to the center of lift and does not exhibit this lack of
elevator authority you are talking about with a back seat passenger.
Perhaps a side by side Mark III Kolb driver can tell us what they
experience with elevator control, with or without a passenger? Do you
ever feel that more elevator control would be desirable?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Builder's List |
| From: | "N111KX (Kip)" <n111kx(at)mindspring.com> |
Hi gents. The database portion of my site is still down. You can email me at anytime
for info on the list. Sorry about the problems...
Regards,
Kip
n111kx(at)mindspring.com
--------
Kip
Firestar II (born September 2000)
Atlanta, GA
N111KX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=24891#24891
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Land Shorter VG's on Firestar II- reply from Joa |
| Perhaps a side by side Mark III Kolb driver can tell us what they
| experience with elevator control, with or without a passenger? Do
you
| ever feel that more elevator control would be desirable?
|
Gene:
To answer the first question, pull back, nose goes up and tail goes
down,............................... ;-)
Sorry could not resist.
Seriously, if I needed more elevator control, I would stick those
little thing on the bottom of my horizontal stabilizers.
With a real lard ass in the left seat, it does not pay to approach a 3
pt landing too slowly. Probably, could use more elevator control
during a situation like that. However, I am normally solo with gear
in the rear cargo compartment and 150 lbs of fuel in the normally
upper rear open area in a MKIII. So......I have plenty pitch control.
john h
MKIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Land Shorter VG's on Firestar II- reply from Joa |
The MKIII with full flaps and a heavy passenger is starting to run out
of elevator authority. If you have to make a go around type maneuver -
it is good to practice this at altitude, because with full power and
full flaps, the high thrust line and center of lift travel induced by
the flaps will open your eyes. it is not anything dangerous, but the
usual Kolb elevator authority is just not there the way you typically
expect.
If you land with a heavy passenger, full flaps, and VG's, you can shoot
the approach at 45 mph (indicated) but then you don't have enough
elevator authority to flare. Full aft stick changes nothing. Surprise!
And yes, more elevator authority in that situation would be good.
Richard Pike
MKIII n420P (420ldPoops)
Eugene Zimmerman wrote:
>
>
> On Mar 28, 2006, at 1:21 AM, Land Shorter wrote:
>
>
>> Ok, so where I use to really notice it (besides the non-stall) is
>> when landing with someone in the back seat. I just didn't have the
>> elevator authority to quickly flare and arrest my sink rate and
>> ended up having to come in a little faster than normal and float a
>> bit more so that I wouldn't bounce.
>>
>
> Joa,
>
> You seem to be saying you need more elevator authority to flare with
> someone in the back seat than you do solo, is that correct?
>
> If so, that must mean that the back seat on your Rans airplane is
> still in front of the center of lift.
>
> A Kolb Firestar II puts the weight of the back seat passenger very
> close to the center of lift and does not exhibit this lack of
> elevator authority you are talking about with a back seat passenger.
>
> Perhaps a side by side Mark III Kolb driver can tell us what they
> experience with elevator control, with or without a passenger? Do you
> ever feel that more elevator control would be desirable?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | elevator authority |
Ah John, You make another good point!
Having the weight of the fuel up closer to the wing rather than down
low would make it easier for the elevator to rotate the plane.
As a plane rotates to a nose high attitude the weight of a lower
fuel tank moves front further in relation to the center of lift than
the weight of a fuel tank up closer to the wing.
One hundred and fifty pounds is a pretty significant pendulum to try
to swing.
On Mar 28, 2006, at 8:02 PM, John Hauck wrote:
> Seriously, if I needed more elevator control, I would stick those
> little thing on the bottom of my horizontal stabilizers.
>
> With a real lard ass in the left seat, it does not pay to approach a 3
> pt landing too slowly. Probably, could use more elevator control
> during a situation like that. However, I am normally solo with gear
> in the rear cargo compartment and 150 lbs of fuel in the normally
> upper rear open area in a MKIII. So......I have plenty pitch control.
>
> john h
> MKIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: center of lift |
Yes - and it is easy to miss - although the center of lift can be at 25%
or 35 % or where ever, the whole chord of the wing is still producing
lift, and most of the wing is still going to be behind the CG. So
regardless of where the wing produces the greatest lift, the sum total
of lift produced will always be behind the CG. Unless you get the CG
terribly wrong...
But with the sum total of lift behind the CG, the tail surfaces keep the
wing from rotating around the CG, so they are stabilizing the airplane,
or in effect, holding the tail down. Good question.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
boyd wrote:
>
> <<<<<<<<<<<<<
>
> Mr. Ladd is correct; our tail feathers hold the tail DOWN in flight since,
> on our wing, the center of lift is BEHIND the center of gravity.
>
>
>
> Forget VG's I have asked this before and not got a good response that
> helped me understand.
>
> I have been told, and cant say from where, that the center of lift of a wing
> will be around the 25% of the cord. or around the thickest part of the
> airfoil. On our kolbs that would be near the front wing attach point.
> If that is true and the rear cg is allowed to go to 35% of the wing cord or
> about 6 to 7 inches behind the front wing attach point.. Then the
> horizontal tail surface would have to be I LIFTING surface. but we know
> that the tail is designed to have negative lift to provide stability to the
> aircraft. So if Mr. Ladd is correct,,, and the tail feathers hold the
> tail down,,,, then the center of lift on our wings is not at 25%,,,, it
> must be beyond 35% of the wing cord.
>
> Am I missing something here?
>
> Boyd
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Land Shorter VG's on Firestar II- reply from Joa |
Thanks, Richard
Have you tried the VGs for that situation yet?
On Mar 28, 2006, at 9:00 PM, Richard Pike wrote:
>
> The MKIII with full flaps and a heavy passenger is starting to run out
> of elevator authority. If you have to make a go around type maneuver -
> it is good to practice this at altitude, because with full power and
> full flaps, the high thrust line and center of lift travel induced by
> the flaps will open your eyes. it is not anything dangerous, but the
> usual Kolb elevator authority is just not there the way you typically
> expect.
>
> If you land with a heavy passenger, full flaps, and VG's, you can
> shoot
> the approach at 45 mph (indicated) but then you don't have enough
> elevator authority to flare. Full aft stick changes nothing. Surprise!
> And yes, more elevator authority in that situation would be good.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII n420P (420ldPoops)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Land Shorter VG's on Firestar II- reply from Joa |
| The MKIII with full flaps and a heavy passenger is starting to run
out
| of elevator authority. |
| Richard Pike
Richard is certainly correct here. Full flaps, heavy passenger, full
power, is a very undesirable situation. Best ease those flaps up as
you come in with full power to go around.
I don't like flying solo with full flaps and full power, although it
will fly this configuration.
john h
MKIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sun 'N Fun Ultralight Wing Walking |
In a message dated 3/29/2006 12:51:55 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
slyck(at)frontiernet.net writes:
>>> Hi Gang
>>>
>>> I just received my April, Ultralight Flying magazine, and I noticed
>>> that at Sun 'N Fun this year at the Friday Night airshow, on April
>>> 7th, they are featuring a father/daughter Ultralight Wing Walking
>>> show. It is the team of Bob Essell and his daughter Jennie Forsythe;
>>> this is first time I have ever heard of an Ultralight Wing Walking
>>> act.
>>>
>>> Bill Vincent
>>> Firestar II
>>> Upper Peninsula of Michigan
I know about Bob Essell's wing walking act on an ultralight PUSHER.....PROP
SPINNING RIGHT BEHIND THE WALKER (a small fella from Sharpsville Pa, in those
days), because, I hired him for $2k to perform the act at my cousin's
Bavarian Funfest at Yankee Lake in Aug of 1996. No one, I mean no one was doing
such an act. I ended up being the announcer as I owned the microphone. Not a
very good announcer, but what an act!!! They flew around the fairgrounds for a
good 10 minutes scaring the h--- out of everyone walkin around with beer or
ice cream cones. Everyone else was scared too.
Bob always impressed me as a nice guy but if he has his daughter doing the
act now, he may be proving to be a relative of Michael Jackson. Bob is a risk
taker but he always makes it look easy, and he always seems to come out on
top......er....flyin the plane.
George Randolph
Firestar driver from The Villages, Fl
Rotax 447, 3 blade Ivo, KX, 1991
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sun 'N Fun Ultralight Wing Walking |
| From: | "Jenny" <jennygeol(at)netscape.net> |
Hi everyone!
I noticed your posts about dad and me and just wanted to take a moment to clarify
a few things and give you a better introduction to our team...
There's no Michael Jackson funny business going on here - when I first told dad
that I wanted to be the next wingwalker (after hearing Jon was retiring), dad's
first reaction was "NO WAY". It took me 6 weeks to convince him to let me
give it a try. And it's not like I was 13 years old - I was 33!
Also, dad's been doing the UL wingwalking thing since the early 1990s, this is nothing new to him. We come from a family tradition rich in aviation and showmanship - this stuff is just in the genes... Dad's also a flight instructor (see www.libertyairsports.com for that side of the business) and I'm also a wingwalker on a 450 Stearman with Walt Pierce (www.americanbarnstormer.com).
Quite simply, we love what we do!
Jenny
Wingwalker
Bob Essell Airshows
www.bobessellairshows.com
Here's a little preview of what we'll be performing at Sun 'n Fun:
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=24967#24967
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Flight Testing VG's/Make and Model Specific |
Meant to ask Joa about his flight testing program for specific makes
and models aircraft, but forgot.
If Joa is still around, perhaps he can share some light on thig
subject.
BTW: Got a post card from Joa in the mail yesterday.
john h
MKIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sun 'N Fun Ultralight Wing Walking |
Very cool Jenny. I look forward to seeing your performance friday night!
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=24976#24976
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 4th Annual Sun & Fun Kolb Kathering |
Richard,
Thanks for the invite! I will be there friday afternoon and looking for a place
to pitch my tent. Any advice for where to camp or how to get there will be greatly
appreciated. I will have my trusty cell phone. 601-480-9979
thanks
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=24977#24977
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 4th Annual Sun & Fun Kolb Kathering |
Any advice for where to camp or how to get there will be greatly
appreciated.
| Paul Petty
Get on West Pipkin Rd (on south side of LAL. It is the road that runs
east into 98 in Lakeland. South of LAL.
Turn north on Airside Center Dr. Only way you can turn onto Airside.
Go north 3 blocks to Flightline Dr and turn left/west.
Proceed west on Flightline Dr several blocks. On the left will be the
UL Camping Area. The gate will be in the NW corner.
You will probably see a gate guard before you get to the UL Camping
Area. He "may" answer your questions.
If you are lost, call me on my cell phone: 334-315-2621.
john h
MKIII
PS: You may be able to punch "Flightline Dr, Lakeland Airport, FL"
into one of the map programs and print out a map and instructions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Any and all suggestions on the construction of a gap seal would be
much
| appreciated by him. I will shuttle the information to him.
|
| Terry - FireFly #95
BRS gave me a couple sheets of what they call "frangible hair cell
plastic". I used this black sheet to make the top of my gap
seal/parachute stowage. Their instructions were to use a utility
knife to score the inside of the plastic where the rocket will strike
the plastic and where the deployment bag and parachute will be pulled
through it. There was a particular pattern described in the
instructions. The original sheet is six years old now. It is
becoming unserviceable and starting to split in places. Some of the
splits I repaired with black silicone seal. The last I discovered
when I was getting ready to take off on a cross country flight. I did
a quick fix on it with a piece of 2" electrical tape. 1" would have
probably gotten the job done though.
Take care,
john h
MKIII/Softpack BRS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Frantz <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
John Hauck wrote:
>
> | Any and all suggestions on the construction of a gap seal would be
>much
>| appreciated by him. I will shuttle the information to him.
>|
>| Terry - FireFly #95
>
>BRS gave me a couple sheets of what they call "frangible hair cell
>plastic". I used this black sheet to make the top of my gap
>seal/parachute stowage. Their instructions were to use a utility
>knife to score the inside of the plastic where the rocket will strike
>the plastic and where the deployment bag and parachute will be pulled
>through it. There was a particular pattern described in the
>instructions. The original sheet is six years old now. It is
>becoming unserviceable and starting to split in places. Some of the
>splits I repaired with black silicone seal. The last I discovered
>when I was getting ready to take off on a cross country flight. I did
>a quick fix on it with a piece of 2" electrical tape. 1" would have
>probably gotten the job done though.
>
>Take care,
>
>john h
>MKIII/Softpack BRS
>
>
>
>
John,
Thanks for the info! Where are you going to get a new piece when you
redo it? Is it available from BRS?
Terry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Thanks for the info! Where are you going to get a new piece when
you
| redo it? Is it available from BRS?
|
| Terry
BRS sent me two pieces when I bought the parachute. Got a spare for
near time overhaul of gap seal.
Don't know if BRS has the frangible hair cell plastic sheet or not.
john h
MKIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRCowan <tc1917(at)Direcway.com> |
| Subject: | spirts plot license |
just wanted all my friends on the Kolb list to know I finally swallowed the
second big bite (the first being the registration, et. al. of my aircraft)
of the spirts plop license. I successfully passed the written exam with a
score of 90%. Now, gotta take a couple more big bites and get the oral and
flying section down pat and go for it. Good luck to everyone going that
way. Used the ASA training guide booklet but there were a few weird and
trick questions to ponder. Nothing is free, right. Anyway, on I go. Ted
Cowan, Alabama Hoops, Hoops, Hoops, but gotta have it for to legally drive
the SS through the air.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun and Fun Ultralight Arrivals and Departures |
BTW: For your info here is the url. It is pretty large, 17.24mg:
http://www.faa.gov/NTAP/sun.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: spirts plot license |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi All,
I have a Mark III. I to went the Gliem study way. It worked out will. I would recommend
the Cd's also. These were very good for any pilot. I had a DAR named
John Shablo from San Diego come out and do my airworthy inspection. It was very
easy and he was very nice. His number is 619-388-7659 or his cell is 951-259-2997.
Since my Kolb had 600 hrs. already I just signed it off without any test
time to fly off. I live in Tucson and I'm not sure who you are talking about
with the other DAR. I know of two DAR's in Phoenix for your flight test, his
name is Terry Brandt another very nice guy. His number is 623-393-9451 or his
cell is 602-739-0554. I also just got my repairman certificate the other day in
Riverside Ca. Piece of cake, but you do need to listen in class. On the 50
question test you can't miss more than 10. If you want anymore info give me a
call anytime.
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
520-574-1080
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=25284#25284
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: spirts plot license |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi All,
Two things here. First if you have FAA come out for an airworthy inspection, which
I was going to do instead of paying for a DAR, I was told by them that they
still need an FAA inspector familiar with Light Sport and it could take months
to get it done. I chose to pay and it took two weeks.
Second if you have a new plane with no time on it or very little the DAR may assign
you time to fly off in you test area. If you have a plane like mine that
has a number of hours (mine was 600 hrs.) on it then he told me all I had to do
was make the appropriate log book entries and I was ready to go without flying
off any time. This is also what I was told in the Repairman cert. class. This
is totally up to each DAR as I learned in the repairman Cert. Class. Each DAR
has the power to require slightly different flight times as he deems neccessary
for safety. In short each DAR can be somewhat different in their requirements.
It is not set in stone. The airworthy cert. and operation limitations have
to be in the plane when you fly your time off.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=25302#25302
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: a stall between 2 fools |
| And I envy you your peregrine! --
| what a fantastic bird --
Here's Stink, the falcon Larry had when we met him and Karen in the
Alvord Dessert:
http://www.c-gate.net/~ppetty/Hauck's%20Stuff/MV%202005%20Flight/DSCF2896.JPG
http://www.c-gate.net/~ppetty/Hauck's%20Stuff/MV%202005%20Flight/DSCF2897.JPG
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh! Life on the Alvord. Only with a Kolb!
http://www.c-gate.net/~ppetty/Hauck's%20Stuff/MV%202005%20Flight/DSCF2901.JPG
johnh
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Key" <dhkey(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Xtra w/a 912 on Barnstormers |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <rswiderski(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 4th Annual Sun & Fun Kolb Kathering |
Paul, tent camping is immediately adjacent to the north boundary of the UL
trailer field. If you go online to the SnF site:
http://www.sun-n-fun.org/content/interior.asp?section=flyin&body=convention
then camping info then site map you will get the layout. I didn't see UL
Camping listed but they do have it. My computer is not working well & I
can't browse internet. I'll try again later. My cell# is 352-895-9287.
Let me know if you don't get info you need. -Richard
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Petty
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2006 8:51 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 4th Annual Sun & Fun Kolb Kathering
Richard,
Thanks for the invite! I will be there friday afternoon and looking for a
place to pitch my tent. Any advice for where to camp or how to get there
will be greatly appreciated. I will have my trusty cell phone. 601-480-9979
thanks
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=24977#24977
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: a stall between 2 fools |
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <Lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
I was going to drop this line of thought since it really was not Kolb related,
but then John posted a picture of Stink, MY WIFE'S BIRD, and the tail feathers
of my firestar was in the background, so I guess that makes it ok. My bird,
Jessie, is attached. She is a Tundra Peregrine, and getting to be a character
as well. Yes they are indeed flying when they stoop (dive) since they can hit
a fleeing duck or pheasant anywhere they want to with serious results.
Larry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=25427#25427
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/jessieindy_and_betsy_457.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/jessie_gadwall_644.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cat36Fly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: spirts plot license |
I got my airworthiness last Oct for my amateur built experimental (MKlllX).
The certificate has to be in the plane before the wheels leave the ground. I
am now operating in the flight testing phase which restricts me to a 25 mile
radius of my home airport for 40 hrs. I now have 25 flown off.
The regular FAA did not do the inspection. I had to hire a qualified DAR to
do it. The biggest issue is getting all the paperwork together, signed and
notarized (where required).
Larry
MKlllx 582/warp
N615RT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sun and Fun Ultralight Arrivals and Departures |
| From: | "N111KX (Kip)" <n111kx(at)mindspring.com> |
My only mistake upon arrival two years ago was that I arrived after flying 9 hours
during the powered parachute demo. I circled out of the way for 45 minutes
and had had enough and the sun was going down. I fit in between the chutes for
landing and was chased down by the runway nazi on the 3 wheeler. I told him
that the chute thing was not on in the NOTAM and he said it was. No point in arguing
with someone who waits all year to be Top Ground [Laughing]
Kip
--------
Kip
Firestar II (born September 2000)
Atlanta, GA
N111KX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=25448#25448
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Photos and Falcons |
http://www.c-gate.net/~ppetty/Hauck%20Stuff/MV%202005%20Flight/DSCF2896.JPG
http://www.c-gate.net/~ppetty/Hauck%20Stuff/MV%202005%20Flight/DSCF2897.JPG
http://www.c-gate.net/~ppetty/Hauck%20Stuff/MV%202005%20Flight/DSCF2901.JPG
http://www.c-gate.net/~ppetty/Hauck%20Stuff/MV%202005%20Flight/DSCF2905.JPG
http://www.c-gate.net/~ppetty/Hauck%20Stuff/MV%202005%20Flight/DSCF2879.JPG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRCowan <tc1917(at)Direcway.com> |
I have had mine registered and N-numbered for about a year or so. Got a DAR
out of Enterprise to check it out and do the airworthyness inspection. Cost
a bunch of money, about four hundred bucks but it was worth it. He checked
it out, signed it off, gave me limitations of 25 miles and 40 hours to fly.
He was under the assumption it was new and not flown. Amateur Homebuilt
complete with my certification of repairman. worth every penny. flew the
time off, had a licensed pilot with tail dragger endorsement sign it off in
the log book and it was good to go. (oh yeah, he flew it off, yeah, right)
Every licensing section should have a roll of toilet paper with it for all
the crap you gotta go through! Sixty years old, been flying ultralites for
twelve years, have built and/or rebuilt six Kolbs and NOW I gotta be
licensed to fly and WORK on one. wow, who wodda thunk. ted cowan, alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Deckard" <mustangsally(at)semo.net> |
| Subject: | New member/ owner |
Let me introduce myself. I just picked up a mid 90's unfinished firestar.
I may be asking questions in the future.
I currently fly a CWII Challenger and have for about 6 years. I am in SE
Missouri and fly from my own strip.
How hard or challenging is to go from a nose wheel plane to the Kolb? I
haven't ever flown a tail wheel.
Jerry Deckard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Key" <dhkey(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | New member/ owner |
Make sure you are landing into the wind for a while. Look at the far end of
the runway when you get close to landing and when you are high speed
taxiing. Over correcting was my biggest problem at first, if it's going
crooked then make tiny rudder adjustments, not one big one. If you have your
own field then cut the runway a little wider. Make sure you're not drifting
across the runway center line on final or before touch down. After a month
none of this advise will be important to you any more, it's easy.
>From: "Jerry Deckard" <mustangsally(at)semo.net>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Kolb-List: New member/ owner
>Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2006 07:16:59 -0600
>
>
>Let me introduce myself. I just picked up a mid 90's unfinished firestar.
>I may be asking questions in the future.
>
>I currently fly a CWII Challenger and have for about 6 years. I am in SE
>Missouri and fly from my own strip.
>
>How hard or challenging is to go from a nose wheel plane to the Kolb? I
>haven't ever flown a tail wheel.
>
>Jerry Deckard
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flykolb" <flykolb(at)wowway.com> |
Jery,
"most of us have done at least one noseover in a Kolb."
A noseover is not as bad as it sounds. It merely means that the nose has touched
the ground and puts you in an embarassing position. Not at all like a flip!
Jim
Mark III
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics Email List Wiki! |
Dear Listers,
I have added a new feature to the Email List Forums at Matronics called a Wiki. What's "Wiki" you ask? A Wiki is a website. You go to it and browse just like you would any other web site. The difference is, you can change it. You can put anything you want on this web site without having to be a web designer or even being the owner. You can write a new page just like writing an email message on the BBS. You don't need to send it off to anyone to install on the site. It is kind of like a Blog (weblog) in which anyone can post. Here is a great page on where the term Wiki came from and what it means in the context of a website: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiki
So on to the new Matronics Email List Wiki... I've created this site for anyone
from any of the Email Lists to use. I envision that there are a great many
things that can be added to this new Wiki since there are always new and interesting
tidbits of useful information traversing the Lists.
Off the main Matronics Email List Wiki page, you will find a link called "Community
Portal". Here you will find more links to stubs for all the various Lists
found at Matronics (and a few other links). Brian Lloyd and others from the
Yak-List have already begun adding content in a number of areas. Bob Nuckolls
of AeroElectric fame has added a great article on "Ageing Aircraft".
I have discussed the new Matronics Email List Wiki with Tedd McHenry and Dwight Frye of the RV Wiki Site and they have decided to merge their site over onto the new Matronics Wiki server giving everyone a single source for information on RV building and flying! This migration will begin today and you should be able to find all of the content currently found at www.rvwiki.org moved over to the Matronics Wiki within a few days.
To make edits to the Matronics Wiki, you will need to have a login account on the
Matronics Wiki and I have disabled anonymous edits. This protects the Wiki
site from automated spam engines and other nuisances that could compromise the
data at the site.
Signing up for an account is fast and easy and begins by clicking on the "create
an account or log in" link in the upper right hand corner of any page. Note
that you do not have to have a login or be logged in to view any of the content.
The Matronics Email List Wiki is YOUR Wiki! It is only as useful as the content
found within. The concept of the Wiki is that the people the use it and update
it. If you've got an interesting procedure for doing something, MAKE A WIKI
PAGE ON IT! You can even upload pictures. Saw something interesting at a
flyin? MAKE A WIKI PAGE ON IT! Don't be shy, this is YOUR site to share information
with others with similar interests.
Here is a users guide on using the Wiki implemented at Matronics: http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents This gives a lot of great information on how to get started editing pages.
And finally, here is the URL for the Matronics Email List Wiki:
http://wiki.matronics.com
Brian Lloyd has written an excellent introduction to Wikis on the front page.
I encourage you to read it over, then drill into the "Community Portal" and HAVE
FUN!!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Video: Firestar II Landings |
| From: | "Bill Vincent" <emailbill(at)chartermi.net> |
Hi Gang
This video is me taking off and landing from the grass runway where I hangar my
plane.
The audio & video is a little inconsistent due to transferring from analog to digital.
Dont worry I wont bore you with any more videos for awhile [Wink]
My two cents:
I recommend taking flight training in an ultralight, even if you have experience
in heavier aircraft.
Because of the light weight, high drag, of an ultralight, I recommend to fly it
right to the ground. If you have a head wind and it suddenly disappears because
of flying it below the tree line wind gradient gusty conditions, etc. the
air speed will drop suddenly; especially in the very light ultralights.
--------
Bill Vincent
Firestar II
Upper Peninsula of Michigan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=25919#25919
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/kolb_tol_2m_155.wmv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
At 07:13 PM 4/1/2006, you wrote:
>
>Here's what I made to prevent that "Nose over" that I've heard so
>much about...
>
> I made it a little bigger than the ones I've seen.... It should "touch" when
>the nose is still 5" off the ground.... but if the ground is too
>soft , The nose would probly still touch....?
Dam... that's a big one.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New member/ owner |
Welcome Jerry Deckard...hmm that name sounds familiar...and a challenger huh?....have
you ever brought that bird up to central Illinois to any Fly-ins?
--------
Don G
FireFly#098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=25930#25930
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Land Shorter VG's on Firestar II |
At 09:54 AM 3/28/2006, you wrote:
>
>Group,
>
>Joa did respond to the list last night. I should read everything
>before I reply to anything in the morning. He changed the subject line.
>
>Anyway, what he accomplished with VGs on the underside of the
>horizontal stab is exactly the way my Firestar II flys now. So
>adding them to my stab would be a waste of time and money.
>
>--------
>John Jung
John
I'll agree with you on that .... but since I ordered another 20 VGs,
I thought I would put them on either side of the Rudder.
So, today I spent 45 minutes with my nose stuck up in the air...at
"what ever angle" it is at 29 - 32 mph and
testing the rudder input. You may not have noticed yet that when you
slow the stall speed down that much with
the VGs, the rudder does not respond like it did at 40 mph. Well, I
think you will recover the difference by
installing those little things ...like he says - in front of the
rudder hinges. Flying 30+- mph indicated - thermals, not too
bad ( but bad enough that no one else was flying ), still drops a
wing once in a while, kick the opposite rudder, and it picks it right
back up again. Used to be sloppy. I've got cars stopping below me -
thinking I'm some kind of a box-kite ...cool. Another $ 30 well spent !!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <neilsenrmf(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New member/ owner |
Welcome Jerry
You will not have any problems with the Kolb. Those of us that came from the
GA world have had problems with landing our Kolbs because of the lack of
inertia and lots of drag but you are used to it so it shouldn't be a
problem. Keep your speed and power up till you are a few inches from the
ground. As you get comfortable slowly progress to less power on approach.
As for tail wheels it's a non issue. I had a problem once landing down wind
on a paved strip but it was a stupid thing to do. I didn't ground loop but
it did get exciting. Stay on grass till you're comfortable and it will not
be a problem.
As for going up on your nose. It can happen but common sense goes a long way
here. One of our members, that hadn't flown yet, felt the need to build a
monster hoop for his plane but it isn't necessary. We really tried to advise
him that it wasn't needed but..... If you ease in the power till your
elevators start working you will not have a problem. Again just use a bit of
common sense.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Deckard" <mustangsally(at)semo.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2006 8:16 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: New member/ owner
>
> Let me introduce myself. I just picked up a mid 90's unfinished firestar.
> I may be asking questions in the future.
>
> I currently fly a CWII Challenger and have for about 6 years. I am in SE
> Missouri and fly from my own strip.
>
> How hard or challenging is to go from a nose wheel plane to the Kolb? I
> haven't ever flown a tail wheel.
>
> Jerry Deckard
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New member/ owner |
>
>I have seen a couple of nose overs on take off. Doesn't look bad just
>embarrassing.
>Jerry
Jerry,
When you see guys at EAA Chapter 453, please tell them hello.
Jerry a member of EAA Chapter 453 in Painton, MO at the time I was in MO.
He may have seen me put my FireFly on its nose. It was my first take off
from a grass strip. I thought I pushed the throttle in the same as I had at
Perryville, but it was too much for grass. The wheel drag and the high
thrust line got me. I remember sitting there wondering what is going on.
This thing is a shaken and quaken, the tail was up and it was not coming
loose from the ground. Then I felt my self sinking and the tail starting
to come up further on its own. I moved the stick back against the stop and
nothing happened. I did not get the throttle backed off in time and over I
went on the nose. It was a repeat of my sailplane days. I just kept it
straight until it came to a stop. I had 54 miles to get home as the sun was
going down. So, I put my right leg out and gave a little push. As the tail
started to come down, I gave a little push on the throttle to keep it from
banging. And then I advanced the throttle slowly, made a nice lift off and
headed on home.
This lead to VG's, never taking off with the tail up, and always holding the
stick back against the stop, and teasing the throttle. I have not had a
nose over on takeoff since the first one. But I have nosed it over twice
while taxiing in tall grass and adverse wind conditions. Experience is a
great teacher.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Garvelink" <link(at)cdc.net> |
Mike,
I am just guessing but you need to check the version of windows media player you
may have an older one and need to upgrade. I am running xp with the latest
version of windows media player and it works fine. Very neat video.
Steve Garvelink
Hixson, tn
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=26121#26121
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Largest European Kit Plane - Final assembly video |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
Not directly Kolb related but should be of interest anyway.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-3046542226114078023
Thom in Buffalo
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=26143#26143
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New member/ owner |
| From: | "Dave Bigelow" <up_country(at)hotmail.com> |
Jerry,
The transition to the Firestar will not be a big deal. Taxi it around to get a
feel for the steering. On takeoff, slowly move the throttle forward to full
power, and hold the stick slightly aft of neutral. You do not need to lift the
tail - just let it lift off from the three point attitude. If your bird is
503 equipped, the take off is more like a launch than a roll. If you are on grass,
be careful advancing the throttle until your ground speed is 10-15 mph.
I haven't noticed that there is much of a nose over tendency with the Firestar
unless you are holding the brakes as you run up, or are in pretty high grass.
Landing is pretty much the same as you are used to with the Challenger. Keep your
speed up and some power on until you are within a foot or so from the ground
and in the flare. Keep flying the plane until you are stopped or at a slow
taxi speed.
You'll like your Firestar!
--------
Dave Bigelow
Kamuela, Hawaii
FS2, Rotax 503 DCDI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=26217#26217
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Frantz <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sneaky wind upsets Kolb FireStar |
Bill,
Please tell Alan how sorry I am to hear about his loss. I have enjoyed
meeting you both at Smoketown and Homer's farm the last couple of
years. Hopefully he will be able to rebuild or find another Kolb to
purchase in the near future.
This sure has brought home the need to be prepared for those sudden wind
gusts especially while not near your plane. Friends and I go air
camping every year and have not been tying down over night. Might have
to re-evaluate the situation in the future.
Thanks for letting us know and also thanks for the information on your
gap seal which I relayed to my friend,
Terry - FireFly #95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Laird" <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
| Subject: | Half-doors on MkIII ? |
Does anyone fly with half-doors on their MkIII? I've got full doors
but am considering removing them and putting half-doors on, so I get
an unobscured view for photography purposes. But I'm wondering about
it's affect on, well, everything.
-- Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sneaky wind upsets Kolb FireStar |
On Apr 3, 2006, at 10:14 AM, Terry Frantz wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
> Please tell Alan how sorry I am to hear about his loss. I have
> enjoyed
> meeting you both at Smoketown and Homer's farm the last couple of
> years. Hopefully he will be able to rebuild or find another Kolb to
> purchase in the near future.
>
> This sure has brought home the need to be prepared for those sudden
> wind
> gusts especially while not near your plane.
Bill,
Terry expressed my sentiments exactly.
Thanks for sharing that experience.
It is so easy to become lax over time.
Hope to see you again soon.
Eugene Zimmerman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | russ kinne <kinnepix(at)earthlink.net> |
Most saddened to hear of a nice Kolb being trashed by an errant wind
-- but unfortunately it can happen.
FWIW I was taught to visualize the apparent wind (on the ground)
pushing on the stick. If the wind is from the right rear, push the
stick to the left front, etc. This lowers the upwind aeliron and
both elevators, lessening the chance for a stray gust to lift wing or
tail.
It scares me to see pilots of light taildraggers strap the seatbelt
around the stick and walk off -- now the plane is as vulnerable as
possible to a blowover from a tailwind. The stick should be tied
FORWARD -- putting the elevators down. Tailwinds then would tend to
push the tail downward; strong headwinds would only lift the tail
temporarily. Of course, always a good idea to tie the wings too.
In any case, my sympathies; hope repairs go well.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Key" <dhkey(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | No doors on xtra |
Anyone have experience on flying with no doors on the xtra? How is it? Did
you have the back lexan in?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: No doors on xtra |
At 11:49 PM 4/3/2006, you wrote:
>
>Anyone have experience on flying with no doors on the xtra? How is it? Did
>you have the back lexan in?
Not Extra but No Doors
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/possums@mindspring.com.07.26.2002/thum.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jmbrooks(at)ctc.net" <jmbrooks(at)ctc.net> |
| Subject: | Another Porcupine Kolb (thanks John H., I like the name) takes |
to the air
I recently installed modified Jack Hart designed vortex generators on the Firestar
II 503 I build and have flown more than 450 hrs over the last 10 years. I
used aluminum trim as material and a die similar to the one Jack describes on
his web site. The modification was to leave a 3/16" flat on the top edges and
add a 1/32" radius on the back corners. This produces vg's that are not as
likely to damage someone practicing Kolb worship (washing).
The vg's were installed on the wing 11" back from the apex of the leading edge
(measured along the camber of the rib) centered in the valleys. They were bonded
to the fabric (Poly Tone paint) with GE 102 silicone adhesive. No vg's were
installed in the valleys inside the prop arc. An additional 7 vg's were installed
on the bottom of each horizontal stabilizer, evenly distributed between
the tip and the last inboard rib of the elevator, 2.5" ahead of the hinge center
line.
The following report is a compilation of 3 flights on 2 different days totaling
1.5 hr: I weigh about 280 lb when dressed for the weather present at the time
of testing so the Firestar had a take off weight of about 640(me+30lb fuel+330lb
airplane). Conditions for the test flights on both days were 50 deg F and
no surface wind. After making 8-10 take offs and landings plus numerous touch
and goes I can report that the take off roll seemed unchanged (130') although
the altitude at the far end of the 5000' runway went from 800' AGL under similar
conditions to 1000' AGL with the vg's using the 50 mph climb speed I normally
use.
The stall speed dropped from 40-42 mph to 34-36 mph. My CG is at 29%. Before
the vg installation the airplane always stalled the elevator first. This stall
was characterized by the elevator stick pressure suddenly dropping, the wings
staying level at the point of the stall and the ailerons retaining authority
through the stall with a very noticable drop of the nose. After the vg's the
wing is now stalling, characterized by the retention of the elevator pressure,
the nose dropping and the slight dropping of a wing, 4 stalls (engine idling)
yielded the right wing dropping twice and the left wing dropping twice. The
stall with the vg's is less severe, losing less altitude than prior to the installation.
A slight reduction in back pressure breaks the stall and recovery
is immediate.
I have over 650 hr in certified airplanes as PIC. In fact, I owned the PA-12 that
Homer Kolb was a partner in back in the late 50's and early 60's. 10 years
ago I learned that wheel landing was the best method for me in the Firestar,
though I've always preferred three point landings in the other airplanes I've
flown. I had difficulty judging and maintaining the correct attitude for a three
point landing, even with elevator gap seals installed. The additional 3-5
mph of the wheel landing made the arrivals much more consistent. I was very
pleasantly supprised when my first landing, using the same stick pressure I previously
used for wheel landing, yielded a very nice three point landing. I
have three pointed ever since. Speed and power on final dropped from 50mph@3000rpm
to 45@2500. As I gain confidence with experience I may find that landing
at idle may be possible. I will approach this point with care as I have dinged
the gear before.
The best and most fun imporvement in the flight characteristics has been in the
lower end of the envelope. Before the vg's the low end of comfortable flight
was about 50 mph. Below that speed it was difficult to maintain a constant altitude
and speed without considerable concentration and continuous correction.
Now cruising at 45@4600, while enjoying the scenery without concentrating on
flying the airplane, is as easy as it was to cruise at 55@5000 previously.
I feel this to be a real improvement in the fun factor.
I consider the addition of the vg's to be one of the best modifications I have
tried on this airplane and a true improvement to a truly fine airplane.
John Brooks
FSII 503
Oakboro, NC
(As my Father-in-law always said "The center of the world."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Adventures in flutter |
As I mentioned in an earlier post, I encounered flutter in the left aileron
at about 75 mph on my fifth flight in my Mark III. Although I have tried to
maintain good airspeed control to stay out of the flutter regime, it
happened twice more, in both ailerons. After the last ime, I grounded the
aircraft until I could get the counter balances installed. I was doing a
general condition inspection pior to the installation and found that each
blade of the Warp Drive three blade prop had a divot in the forward surface
that aligned quite nicely with the left flap bell crank. The paint on the
aft most point of the bell crank was missing, too. That afternoon I ordered
plans from the factory and over the days I waited for them to arrive I began
to wonder if this was becoming a chicken and egg mystery. Did the prop hit
the flap bell crank and with that rythmic beat excite the aileron into
flutter, or did the flutter cause the bell crank to contact the prop? There
appears to be adequate clearance, about an inch, between the bell crank and
the prop when checking it statically, however, checking the plans shows that
the bell cranks have been installed improperly, and are rotated about 15
degrees past vertical toward the rear.
More checking of the plans revealed that the engine mount is built upside
down in a cross between the 582 and 618 design. Rather than a single motor
mount plate that bolts to the engine and the engine's vibration isolaters,
it is composed of two plates, front and rear, carrying the isolaters atop
which are two 2" square tube risers, running fore and aft. Studs going
through the risers attach the engine to the mount plates. There are no
inserts or spacers to keep the studs from squeezing the tubes (architectural
tubing that has no radius in the corners, I might add), but a square, 1/4"
thick spacer serves to spread the load of the engine to the vertical walls
of the tubes. Clear as mud, right?
So, with that back ground into the mechanics of the engine and ailerons and
how they may, or may not, be interacting to create the flutter in the
ailerons, here's my question to the group. I can replace the blades in the
Warp Drive prop and go back to a 66" prop, it's now 68", or I can replace it
entirely with an IVO or a GSC. The IVO has the option of adding the in
flight adjustable hub at a later date. If you are flying one of these props,
I'd like to hear your recommendation and insight.
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Adventures in flutter |
| From: | "John Jung" <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
jindoguy(at)gmail.com wrote:
> So, with that back ground into the mechanics of the engine and ailerons and how
they may, or may not, be interacting to create the flutter in the ailerons,
here's my question to the group. I can replace the blades in the Warp Drive prop
and go back to a 66" prop, it's now 68", or I can replace it entirely with
an IVO or a GSC. The IVO has the option of adding the in flight adjustable hub
at a later date. If you are flying one of these props, I'd like to hear your
recommendation and insight.
> Rick Girard
Rick,
Unless the Warp is contacting the bellcranks within an inch of the tips, or has
too much damage, I would not change props. It appears to me that the prop is
not the problem, and by changing the prop, you may make the problem worse or at
least fail to fix it. I suggest that you fix the bellcranks, if you can, as
well as the counterweights. I couldn't tell from your description if there is
or isn't a problem with the motor mount. It sound like some that I have seen on
Mark III's, and unless the bolts are not keeping soom tension, there may be
no problem.
--------
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
Surprise, AZ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=26583#26583
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another Porcupine Kolb (thanks John H., I like the name) |
tak
| From: | "John Jung" <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
John B,
Thanks for taking the time to share what you learned about VG's. I found it very
interesting. As more of us follow the lead of the VG pioneers on the list, and
report results, we all stand to learn.
As much as I like my Firestar II, one disappointment was the 40 mph stall and the
lack of ability to fly with friends in Quicksilvers. Even my original Firestar
had a 35 mph stall, and could not fly with slower ultralights. Now, with VG's
and a 30 mph stall, I can fly with ultralights again.
--------
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
Surprise, AZ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=26597#26597
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Adventures in flutter |
John, I guess I left it without saying that I fixed the problem with the
bell crank installation before I did anything else. As for the prop, it's
beyond my comfort zone to fly with a prop that has visible damage, so the
question to Mark III, 582 flyers remains, which do you prefer, the Warp
drive, Ivo, or the GSC prop?
On 4/5/06, John Jung wrote:
>
>
> jindoguy(at)gmail.com wrote:
> > So, with that back ground into the mechanics of the engine and ailerons
> and how they may, or may not, be interacting to create the flutter in the
> ailerons, here's my question to the group. I can replace the blades in the
> Warp Drive prop and go back to a 66" prop, it's now 68", or I can replace it
> entirely with an IVO or a GSC. The IVO has the option of adding the in
> flight adjustable hub at a later date. If you are flying one of these props,
> I'd like to hear your recommendation and insight.
> > Rick Girard
>
>
> Rick,
>
> Unless the Warp is contacting the bellcranks within an inch of the tips,
> or has too much damage, I would not change props. It appears to me that the
> prop is not the problem, and by changing the prop, you may make the problem
> worse or at least fail to fix it. I suggest that you fix the bellcranks, if
> you can, as well as the counterweights. I couldn't tell from your
> description if there is or isn't a problem with the motor mount. It sound
> like some that I have seen on Mark III's, and unless the bolts are not
> keeping soom tension, there may be no problem.
>
> --------
> John Jung
> Firestar II N6163J
> Surprise, AZ
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D26583#26583
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Adventures in flutter |
I am at a loss to understand why you need the 2" risers - I am running a
582 with a 68" Ivo & B box, and all I needed was a 1 3/8" spacer to get
enough clearance.
Also, I have a 2.5 inch spacer between the Rotax prop flange and the
prop, which gives me 5" of clearance between the flap bellcrank and the
prop.
I am of the opinion that 1" of clearance between the prop blade and the
bellcrank is not nearly enough, even considering the stiffness of the
Warp Drive. A good dose of turbulence and a bit of gyroscopic precession
of the prop, or one of my landings would be all it would take to get rid
of all of that 1" of clearance, plus a bit more.
I have seen the 2" square tube risers that you describe, and they strike
me as a poor design. I obtained a 6" length of 1.25 aluminum dowel and
took it to a machine shop and had it cut on a lathe to 1&3/8" lengths,
and then bored on the lathe so the bolts would go straight down the
middle. That gives a solid block of aluminum between the Lord mounts and
the engine motor mounts, and is probably sufficient for anything you
could sit up there, much less a lowly 582.
There are some views of it on the bottom of this page here:
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg2.htm
It is possible that there is an interaction between the flaps, ailerons
and the prop. With the prop passing so closely to the flap torque rod,
which is attached to the aileron torque rod, it is not impossible that
you could get a harmonic. Which is yet another reason to get an
extension and move the prop back another 2.5 inches away from the wing.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Richard Girard wrote:
>
> As I mentioned in an earlier post, I encounered flutter in the left aileron
> at about 75 mph on my fifth flight in my Mark III. Although I have tried to
> maintain good airspeed control to stay out of the flutter regime, it
> happened twice more, in both ailerons. After the last ime, I grounded the
> aircraft until I could get the counter balances installed. I was doing a
> general condition inspection pior to the installation and found that each
> blade of the Warp Drive three blade prop had a divot in the forward surface
> that aligned quite nicely with the left flap bell crank. The paint on the
> aft most point of the bell crank was missing, too. That afternoon I ordered
> plans from the factory and over the days I waited for them to arrive I began
> to wonder if this was becoming a chicken and egg mystery. Did the prop hit
> the flap bell crank and with that rythmic beat excite the aileron into
> flutter, or did the flutter cause the bell crank to contact the prop? There
> appears to be adequate clearance, about an inch, between the bell crank and
> the prop when checking it statically, however, checking the plans shows that
> the bell cranks have been installed improperly, and are rotated about 15
> degrees past vertical toward the rear.
> More checking of the plans revealed that the engine mount is built upside
> down in a cross between the 582 and 618 design. Rather than a single motor
> mount plate that bolts to the engine and the engine's vibration isolaters,
> it is composed of two plates, front and rear, carrying the isolaters atop
> which are two 2" square tube risers, running fore and aft. Studs going
> through the risers attach the engine to the mount plates. There are no
> inserts or spacers to keep the studs from squeezing the tubes (architectural
> tubing that has no radius in the corners, I might add), but a square, 1/4"
> thick spacer serves to spread the load of the engine to the vertical walls
> of the tubes. Clear as mud, right?
> So, with that back ground into the mechanics of the engine and ailerons and
> how they may, or may not, be interacting to create the flutter in the
> ailerons, here's my question to the group. I can replace the blades in the
> Warp Drive prop and go back to a 66" prop, it's now 68", or I can replace it
> entirely with an IVO or a GSC. The IVO has the option of adding the in
> flight adjustable hub at a later date. If you are flying one of these props,
> I'd like to hear your recommendation and insight.
>
> --
> Rick Girard
> "Pining for a home on the Range"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: sneaky wind ... pic |
| From: | "Possum" <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
I got one for you. Flipped big time, but had someone in it.
No major harm done. Made T-Shirts from this Picture and
took to S & F. Had to get it down with a small crane/wrecker.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=26692#26692
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/nice_landing_197.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/nice_landing_102.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rivet removal question |
| From: | "DrHook" <csgale(at)yahoo.com> |
I am doing a re-cover job on my firestar want to know if I should try and remove
all the rivets that are used for the fabric tape on the ribs.
My question is should I leave them in, and just cover over them?
By leaving them in, I would have to put more on the new tape and it might compromise
the strenght of the ribs.
By removing them, there will be rivet peices stuck in the middle of the ribs aluminum
tubing.
I am leaning on removing and using the same holes to re-rivet the fabric tape.
Anyone have suggestions or have done a re-cover?
Also I found this rivet removing tool at Aircraft Spruce. Is this tool a must have?
or can I just use a 1/8" drill and remove them?
Here is the link to the tool. Anyone use it?
Thanks in Advance, Chris
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/rivetremoval.php
--------
Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=26708#26708
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet removal question |
Drill them out and reuse the same holes. No problem.
All old Kolbs have rivet ends in them. Except for when handling the
wings
for removal, etc, you will never notice them.
-BB
On 6, Apr 2006, at 8:03 AM, DrHook wrote:
>
> I am doing a re-cover job on my firestar want to know if I should try
> and remove all the rivets that are used for the fabric tape on the
> ribs.
> My question is should I leave them in, and just cover over them?
> By leaving them in, I would have to put more on the new tape and it
> might compromise the strenght of the ribs.
> By removing them, there will be rivet peices stuck in the middle of
> the ribs aluminum tubing.
> I am leaning on removing and using the same holes to re-rivet the
> fabric tape.
> Anyone have suggestions or have done a re-cover?
> Also I found this rivet removing tool at Aircraft Spruce. Is this tool
> a must have? or can I just use a 1/8" drill and remove them?
> Here is the link to the tool. Anyone use it?
> Thanks in Advance, Chris
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/rivetremoval.php
>
> --------
> Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=26708#26708
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet removal question |
I wouldn't leave them in. Drilling them out with a 1/8" drill will work
fine, but the rivets will tend to spin, and enlarge the hole a bit. John
Hauck built a tool to stop this that works very well. As I recall, he took
a piece of a hacksaw blade and ground the teeth off a section, then cut a
"V" in the end. Sharpen the V on one side, so that you can press it under
the head of the rivet and apply pressure while you drill. Be very careful
with *every* single rivet, so the bit doesn't jump and mar the aluminum.
Use light pressure, and a new, sharp drill bit. I think I remember this
correctly - some one else who isn't at SnF might remember a link to a
picture of it, or it may be in the archives. I also like to use a sharp
pointed snap punch to knock the broken stub out of each rivet before
drilling them. Makes it much quicker and more accurate.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "DrHook" <csgale(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 5:03 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Rivet removal question
>
> I am doing a re-cover job on my firestar want to know if I should try and
> remove all the rivets that are used for the fabric tape on the ribs.
> My question is should I leave them in, and just cover over
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 2 stroke adventure |
| From: | "Steve Garvelink" <link(at)cdc.net> |
Mike, the video is still there at http://nhexecutivecouncil.com/media-head/aerial/vid.engineout.htm you will need to have the latest quicktime video installed to see it. It is a rather large file if you are having trouble downloading it send me your snail mail address and I will send you a copy on a cd.
Steve Garvelink
kolb us
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=26722#26722
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cooley" <johnc(at)datasync.com> |
| Subject: | Rivet removal question |
Hi Gang and DrHook,
Just drill the old ones out. The aluminum fabric rivets don't spin nearly as
bad as the old steel or especially the ss rivets. The ss ones can be a real
pain in the butt. I have also recovered a Kolb and this is what I did with
no problems. Matter of fact, flew that very plane yesterday. First time I've
been up in a possum's....errr coon's age. Sorry Possum, have a hard time
differentiating between coons and possums.
Later,
John Cooley
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Bourne
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 7:59 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rivet removal question
I wouldn't leave them in. Drilling them out with a 1/8" drill will work
fine, but the rivets will tend to spin, and enlarge the hole a bit. John
Hauck built a tool to stop this that works very well. As I recall, he took
a piece of a hacksaw blade and ground the teeth off a section, then cut a
"V" in the end. Sharpen the V on one side, so that you can press it under
the head of the rivet and apply pressure while you drill. Be very careful
with *every* single rivet, so the bit doesn't jump and mar the aluminum.
Use light pressure, and a new, sharp drill bit. I think I remember this
correctly - some one else who isn't at SnF might remember a link to a
picture of it, or it may be in the archives. I also like to use a sharp
pointed snap punch to knock the broken stub out of each rivet before
drilling them. Makes it much quicker and more accurate.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "DrHook" <csgale(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 5:03 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Rivet removal question
>
> I am doing a re-cover job on my firestar want to know if I should try and
> remove all the rivets that are used for the fabric tape on the ribs.
> My question is should I leave them in, and just cover over
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Prop clearance with bell crank |
I know that IVO says in the info they provide that there must be at least
5" clearance between the prop and trailing edge. In the MKIII plans I have
they show the flap bell crank angled to the rear (for best mechanical
advantage over the range of motion), but I believe I read some place that
you can put it straight down if you need more prop clearance.
Jason Omelchuck
MKIII
BMW R100
2 months to lift off
passed my Sport Pilot check ride yesterday (in a J3)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Adventures in flutter |
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
So, with that back ground into the mechanics of the engine and ailerons and
how they may, or may not, be interacting to create the flutter in the
ailerons, here's my question to the group. I can replace the blades in the
Warp Drive prop and go back to a 66" prop, it's now 68", or I can replace it
entirely with an IVO or a GSC. The IVO has the option of adding the in
flight adjustable hub at a later date. If you are flying one of these props,
I'd like to hear your recommendation and insight.
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
In my opinion.
At this point I am not sure I would take apart the bellclranks,,,, what I
think I would do is install a prop spacer, 3 inch or so. the prop
spacer would eliminate the interference fit and also give you a boost in
performance. By putting the prop further from the disturbed air. It will
also make it a bit quieter. I would then install the counter weights in the
ailerons.
I would not use the ivo prop as it is more flexable and would cause the
prop strike problem to be worse. Also the flight adjustable hub is best
served in an aircraft that flies much faster than the kolb will go. As to
the 66 or 68 inch prop it would depend on the engine and gear ratio. With
the speeds that the kolbs fly the 68 would be better if your engine and gear
ratio will support it.
Boyd Young
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | duncanmcbride(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Rivet removal question |
Those are aluminum rivets and should drill out very easily. With a sharp new bit,
you can drill at a slight angle to keep it from spinning and they should only
take a moment to drill through.
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
>
> I wouldn't leave them in. Drilling them out with a 1/8" drill will work
> fine, but the rivets will tend to spin, and enlarge the hole a bit. John
> Hauck built a tool to stop this that works very well. As I recall, he took
> a piece of a hacksaw blade and ground the teeth off a section, then cut a
> "V" in the end. Sharpen the V on one side, so that you can press it under
> the head of the rivet and apply pressure while you drill. Be very careful
> with *every* single rivet, so the bit doesn't jump and mar the aluminum.
> Use light pressure, and a new, sharp drill bit. I think I remember this
> correctly - some one else who isn't at SnF might remember a link to a
> picture of it, or it may be in the archives. I also like to use a sharp
> pointed snap punch to knock the broken stub out of each rivet before
> drilling them. Makes it much quicker and more accurate.
> Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Building Kolb Mk III
> N78LB Vamoose
> www.gogittum.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "DrHook"
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 5:03 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Rivet removal question
>
>
> >
> > I am doing a re-cover job on my firestar want to know if I should try and
> > remove all the rivets that are used for the fabric tape on the ribs.
> > My question is should I leave them in, and just cover over
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Those are aluminum rivets and should drill out very easily. With a sharp new bit,
you can drill at a slight angle to keep it from spinning and they should only
take a moment to drill through.
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Larry Bourne" biglar(at)gogittum.com
-- Kolb-List message posted by: "Larry Bourne"
I wouldn't leave them in. Drilling them out with a 1/8" drill will work
fine, but the rivets will tend to spin, and enlarge the hole a bit. John
Hauck built a tool to stop this that works very well. As I recall, he took
a piece of a hacksaw blade and ground the teeth off a section, then cut a
"V" in the end. Sharpen the V on one side, so that you can press it under
the head of the rivet and apply pressure while you drill. Be very careful
with *every* single rivet, so the bit doesn't jump and mar the aluminum.
Use light pressure, and a new, sharp drill bit. I think I remember this
correctly - some one else who isn't at S
nF might remember a link to a
picture of it, or it may be in the archives. I also like to use a sharp
pointed snap punch to knock the broken stub out of each rivet before
drilling them. Makes it much quicker and more accurate.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "DrHook" <CSGALE(at)YAHOO.COM>
To:
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 5:03 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Rivet removal question
-- Kolb-List message posted by: "DrHook"
I am doing a re-cover job on my firestar want to know if I should try and
remove all the rivets that are used for the fabric tape on the ribs.
My question is should I leave them in, and just cover over
&
gt;
_-
============================================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Further adventures in flutter |
First, thanks to all of you who replied to my request for info.
As of tonight the flap bell cranks have been rotated to their correct, per
plans location and reattached. There is now almost three inches clearance
between them and the prop. The pushrods for the flaps have been shortened to
accomodate the new bell crank location. The aileron counter balances have
been installed. All that is left is to install the pushrods, adjust their
length, and go do a test flight.
I believe the Warp Drive prop will be fine for a test flight but after that
it has to go. Interesting that for $30 more than the cost of three new
blades and a protractor to set them, I can get a complete new prop. The old
one will go to eBay for any airboat drivers who'd like a deal. For those of
you who asked, I do not consider the prop airworthy for anything but testing
and I won't allow it to go on another aircraft. If it doesn't sell on eBay,
it'll make a nice conversation piece for the hangar wall.
The local electric company says they'll have the power on in my shop space
real soon now. Once my Bridgeport and engine lathe are back up and running,
I'll tackle the the engine mounting system, clean up the muffler mount
design and get everything back per plans.
The fun never stops..............
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Adventures in flutter |
I agree on all points with Boyd.
Denny Rowe,
Mk-3, 68 inch Powerfin
----- Original Message -----
From: "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 06, 2006 1:10 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Adventures in flutter
>
> <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
> So, with that back ground into the mechanics of the engine and ailerons
> and
> how they may, or may not, be interacting to create the flutter in the
> ailerons, here's my question to the group. I can replace the blades in the
> Warp Drive prop and go back to a 66" prop, it's now 68", or I can replace
> it
> entirely with an IVO or a GSC. The IVO has the option of adding the in
> flight adjustable hub at a later date. If you are flying one of these
> props,
> I'd like to hear your recommendation and insight.
>
> --
> Rick Girard
> "Pining for a home on the Range"
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
> In my opinion.
>
> At this point I am not sure I would take apart the bellclranks,,,, what I
> think I would do is install a prop spacer, 3 inch or so. the prop
> spacer would eliminate the interference fit and also give you a boost in
> performance. By putting the prop further from the disturbed air. It will
> also make it a bit quieter. I would then install the counter weights in
> the
> ailerons.
>
>
> I would not use the ivo prop as it is more flexable and would cause the
> prop strike problem to be worse. Also the flight adjustable hub is best
> served in an aircraft that flies much faster than the kolb will go. As to
> the 66 or 68 inch prop it would depend on the engine and gear ratio.
> With
> the speeds that the kolbs fly the 68 would be better if your engine and
> gear
> ratio will support it.
>
> Boyd Young
>
>
> --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rivet removal question |
| From: | "DrHook" <csgale(at)yahoo.com> |
Thanks, Guys,
I will drill them out, I think the heads are wide enough where I can use a small
pair of vice grips on them, to keep em from spinning and will still have room
for drilling.
My supplies I ordered from Aircraft Spruce showed up yeserday. This weekend its
all about workin on this baby.
At first I was a bit overwelmed with all the work, but now, I think I can, I think
I can. Oh Hell, I know I can!!!
You guys are great. I sincerley appriciate the advice here. Mike, "planecrazzzy"
was right, this is the forum to be at. I will keep you posted on the progress,
& I am sure, I will need some more questions answered.
Again, Mucho thanks Fellas, Chris
--------
Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=26836#26836
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
Did any of our Kolb friends at Sun & Fun hear anything about test
pilot Dan Johnson having an accident in Florida this week?
It is reported that he suffered severe back injury.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Earl & Mim Zimmerman <emzi(at)supernet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dan Johnson ? |
Eugene Zimmerman wrote:
>
> Did any of our Kolb friends at Sun & Fun hear anything about test
> pilot Dan Johnson having an accident in Florida this week?
>
> It is reported that he suffered severe back injury.
>
Didn't hear anything about Dan. But read this about Sean Tucker from
AOPA. ~ Earl
(copied)
SEAN TUCKER BAILS OUT FROM AIRSHOW BIPLANE
Airshow legend and AOPA member Sean D. Tucker was forced on Tuesday to
bail out of his highly modified 400-horsepower Pitts S-2S biplane, the
Team Oracle Challenger, while practicing his routine near Coushatta,
Louisiana, 38 nm southeast of Shreveport. Tucker said he was doing a
7.5-G pull at 225 mph when he felt his control stick give. He went to
his trim lever as a backup control and was able to put the aircraft in a
climb to more than 9,000 feet while he evaluated the problem. Tucker
wanted to save the airplane, but it was oscillating dangerously. "This
was the most magical airplane I've ever flown," he said. Tucker thought
he might die and passed along his love for his family to the ground
crew. The local sheriff and a judge raced to the scene, closed down a
road, and directed him to a farm when a bailout became inevitable. "The
last thing you want to do is save your life and kill someone else,"
Tucker said. He ducked his head and pulled release pins holding the
canopy, but was still hit twice on his helmet by the bubble as it flew
off. After a brief tussle in getting free from the aircraft, Tucker
popped the silk. He landed uninjured after a 25-minute ordeal and asked
the sheriff to take him to the wreckage, a tangled bright red mess in a
freshly plowed field. Tucker figures the airplane hit the ground at 250
mph. He found that a torque-tube linkage controlling the main elevator
had failed. Tucker expects it will take a month or two to re-engine a
backup biplane and return to the airshow circuit. While visibly shaken,
Tucker said at Sun 'n Fun, "I want to build a better aircraft, get back
to being the best aviator I can be, and start spreading the magic."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dan Johnson ? |
Here is a message I copied from another list about Dan
Johnson...................
--
ANN Is Posting Breaking Stories, In REALTIME... Stay Tuned!
Top News
Aviation Writer Injured in LSA Accident
Tue, 04 Apr '06
Dan Johnson Suffers Back Injury In Take-Off Accident
A Lakeland bound LSA went down in Southern Florida Tuesday after a
takeoff went awry. The departure reportedly fell victim to a lack of
power from the four-stroke Rotax engine.
Aviation writer Dan Johnson, who had flown the aircraft previously,
was enroute to Lakeland FL, for a Fly-In, from South Florida's Naked
Lady Ranch when he went down at the side of the runway in small trees
and brush. Johnson suffered serious back injuries, including a
compression fracture, and is scheduled for surgery Wednesday morning
to repair the damage, though the prognosis is postive for a full
recovery.
No control difficulties or other issues appear to have contributed to
the accident. The aircraft involved, a Czech Aircraft Works (CZAW)
Parrot, had approximately 120 hours of time in service.
ANN spoke to CZAW Parrot Manufacturer, Chip Erwin, a witness to the
accident, about the situation and Johnson's unfortunate injury. Chip
reported that the aircraft failed to make power on takeoff, a fact
reportedly confirmed to him by Johnson, developing only 4000 RPM or
so on the Rotax 912 (where revs well above 5K are considered
minimum). Despite the lack of take-off power (audible to those on the
ground in the immediate area), Johnson attempted to continue the
flight, continuing most of the length of the runway, before
attempting a partial turn attempt to line up with a crosswind runway -
- a decision that was apparently aborted after nearly 90 degrees of
turn was completed.
Attempting to turn back, the Parrot, a two-place high-wing Certified
LSA, settled into small trees and brush at the side of the runway,
injuring Johnson and pretty much destroying the aircraft. Erwin noted
that the airframe remained fairly well intact throughout the
accident, but that the attendant sink rate contributed significantly
to the damage suffered by Johnson.
Erwin and others rendered aid at the scene, and kept Johnson hydrated
until medical help arrived, whereupon Johnson was treated for
transport and moved to a St. Mary's Medical Center in West Palm
Beach, FL.
------------------------------------------------
On Apr 7, 2006, at 8:47 AM, Earl & Mim Zimmerman wrote:
>
>
> Eugene Zimmerman wrote:
>>
>>
>> Did any of our Kolb friends at Sun & Fun hear anything about test
>> pilot Dan Johnson having an accident in Florida this week?
>>
>> It is reported that he suffered severe back injury.
>>
>
> Didn't hear anything about Dan. But read this about Sean Tucker from
> AOPA. ~ Earl
>
> (copied)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Converting Five Rib Wing To 10 Ribs? |
Alan Mancus is rebuilding his wind damaged FireStar. He would like to have
a seven rib wing. But previous discussions on the list pointed out the
difficulty of moving the ribs (cannot slide because of burrs creating scratches
in
the main spar tube) and leaving empty holes, etc.
What do you think of this idea?
On the 5 rib wing, there is one lower false rib centered between each full
rib and there are 3 upper false ribs divided between each full rib. Remove
the center upper and centered lower false ribs. Get another set of full ribs
and cut them in half, right through the center of the main spar flange. With
the rib assembly now in two pieces, assemble them onto the wing spars were
the false ribs were removed. Form a sheet metal piece, similar to the flange
thickness, to splice the cut flanges back together. Fasten the new ribs to
the spars (main, leading and trailing) the same way as the existing ribs are.
This would make the wing much stronger and able to tolerate a higher Vne.
(five rib wings are redlined at 75 MPH). The penalty would be a heavier
structure.
Pass on your thoughts.
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Sneaky Wind - Kolb Damage Report |
Alan Mancus, the owner of the Original Kolb FireStar that was turned over
onto it's back by the wind, while parked, has decided to rebuild it. Today we
did a complete survey of the damage.
WINGS and AILERONS:
Alan was at first reluctant to cut the fabric from the wings, thinking he
may be able to do the repair and just patch up any access holes. But after
talking to him about possible internal hidden damage, he finally did get out his
knife and remove the fabric.
We had already cut a couple of holes to look inside, but it was hard to see
the damage we then found with all the fabric off. When the wings hit the
ground inverted, the force caused the leading edge tube spars to push on the
ribs. There are two diagonals in the front portion of the rib. The longest
one, that goes from the top center of the rib to the bottom of the flange on the
main spar was bent out of column and the flange was also bent where the
diagonal attached. The rivets held tight. All but two ribs, in both wings, were
damaged identically. Also, the leading and trailing spars of the wings and
ailerons were bent. On one wing, the trailing spar and aileron leading spar
were minimally bent and we were able to straighten them. But all of the
others will be replaced. Some of the wing tip bow support tubing was also bent
slightly. Most will be replaced. The bow tube itself was not bent. The
right aileron will have to be rebuilt as both leading and trailing spars were
bent. The left aileron will need a new trailing spar only plus a rib or two.
TAIL FEATHERS:
The rudder and one elevator will have to be rebuilt as they were severely
bent and a couple of ribs broken.
BOOM TUBE:
Completely bent and twisted to the point of almost broken in two at the aft
end of the 'H' section, were the big bolt holds it to the cage. Will be
replaced. The 'H' section is bent. Possibly can straighten it, but then would
have to weld all the rivet holes shut in order to install in new boom tube.
Unless someone has an idea on how to match drill the existing holes.
FUSELAGE CAGE:
Saved. No damage to it except for a few scratches on the Lexan windshield.
He had just spent 6 months or more rebuilding the cage with a new nose cone,
fabric and Lexan windshield, so was fortunate there.
COVERING and PAINTING:
Almost all surfaces will be redone. This will probably be the most
expensive part of the rebuild.
It will be a lot of work. Drilling out the old rivets will be the worst
problem. Some come out easily, some with great difficulty, especially those
stainless steel ones. If the rivet spins during drilling, it can cause the hole
to become enlarged, but Alan has discovered that if you just drill the head
off, then punch the rest of the rivet through into the tube, or whatever its
in, it won't enlarge the hole. If it does, we found a source for 5/32"
rivets that will fill the gap.
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Converting Five Rib Wing To 10 Ribs? |
Bill, not a bad idea but here's another thought to add:
buy double the amount of flanges to be used and cut them
oversized to overlap the other piece by 1 1/2" or so.
Put the overlap joint at the top and bottom to reduce the
shear load on the rivet pattern..
-BB
On 8, Apr 2006, at 1:00 AM, WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Alan Mancus is rebuilding his wind damaged FireStar. He would like
> to have
> a seven rib wing. But previous discussions on the list pointed out
> the
> difficulty of moving the ribs (cannot slide because of burrs creating
> scratches in
> the main spar tube) and leaving empty holes, etc.
>
> What do you think of this idea?
>
> On the 5 rib wing, there is one lower false rib centered between each
> full
> rib and there are 3 upper false ribs divided between each full rib.
> Remove
> the center upper and centered lower false ribs. Get another set of
> full ribs
> and cut them in half, right through the center of the main spar
> flange. With
> the rib assembly now in two pieces, assemble them onto the wing spars
> were
> the false ribs were removed. Form a sheet metal piece, similar to
> the flange
> thickness, to splice the cut flanges back together. Fasten the new
> ribs to
> the spars (main, leading and trailing) the same way as the existing
> ribs are.
>
> This would make the wing much stronger and able to tolerate a higher
> Vne.
> (five rib wings are redlined at 75 MPH). The penalty would be a
> heavier
> structure.
>
> Pass on your thoughts.
>
> Bill Varnes
> Original Kolb FireStar
> Audubon NJ
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sneaky Wind - Kolb Damage Report |
On Apr 8, 2006, at 1:00 AM, WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com wrote:
> The 'H' section is bent. Possibly can straighten it, but then would
> have to weld all the rivet holes shut in order to install in new
> boom tube.
> Unless someone has an idea on how to match drill the existing holes.
Bill,
It is possible to match all the holes. Just drill all the rivets out
and remove the H section.
Then take a large piece of paper and wrap it around the tube snugly
and tape it together securely to form a paper tube. Secure this
paper tube with tape in place where the rivet holes are then
carefully drill or punch the holes in the paper.
Carefully remove this paper tube "pattern" from the old fuse tube by
sliding it off the tube away from the bent and distorted end. Slide
this pattern on to the new tube, making sure it is oriented exactly
the same as on the old one. Center punch the holes and drill one
hole each end of the line of holes. Use these holes to realign the H
section in place in the new tube. Then drill and rivet the remaining
holes.
It is helpful to use paper that is large enough to extent 4 to 6
inches past the line of rivets to form a slight " bell end" into
the paper pattern you want to slide on to the new tube.
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Sneaky Wind - Kolb Damage Report |
For match drilling the holes, you might try this:
Take just the section of boom where the old holes are at and cut if off
from the rest of the boom tube. Now cut it in half vertically. Verify
that all the holes line up with the straightened H section. Lay each
half on either side of the new tube with an equal gap top and bottom
between the two pieces. Make sure they lay snug and flush. Giant hose
clamps would be good. Drill just the four end holes, slide the H section
in and see if they line up enough to cleco the tube to the H section. If
they do, proceed. If they don't, you are only out four holes, which
would probably still work with a new H section.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Alan Mancus, the owner of the Original Kolb FireStar that was turned over
> onto it's back by the wind, while parked, has decided to rebuild it. Today
we
> did a complete survey of the damage.
>
>
> BOOM TUBE:
> Completely bent and twisted to the point of almost broken in two at the aft
> end of the 'H' section, were the big bolt holds it to the cage. Will be
> replaced. The 'H' section is bent. Possibly can straighten it, but then would
> have to weld all the rivet holes shut in order to install in new boom tube.
> Unless someone has an idea on how to match drill the existing holes.
>
> Bill Varnes
> Original Kolb FireStar
> Audubon NJ
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Sneaky Wind - Kolb Damage Report |
Boy, I wish I'd read this before I posted my idea 5 minutes ago. I like
yours better.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Eugene Zimmerman wrote:
>
>
> On Apr 8, 2006, at 1:00 AM, WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
>> The 'H' section is bent. Possibly can straighten it, but then would
>> have to weld all the rivet holes shut in order to install in new
>> boom tube.
>> Unless someone has an idea on how to match drill the existing holes.
>>
>
> Bill,
> It is possible to match all the holes. Just drill all the rivets out
> and remove the H section.
>
> Then take a large piece of paper and wrap it around the tube snugly
> and tape it together securely to form a paper tube. Secure this
> paper tube with tape in place where the rivet holes are then
> carefully drill or punch the holes in the paper.
>
> Carefully remove this paper tube "pattern" from the old fuse tube by
> sliding it off the tube away from the bent and distorted end. Slide
> this pattern on to the new tube, making sure it is oriented exactly
> the same as on the old one. Center punch the holes and drill one
> hole each end of the line of holes. Use these holes to realign the H
> section in place in the new tube. Then drill and rivet the remaining
> holes.
>
> It is helpful to use paper that is large enough to extent 4 to 6
> inches past the line of rivets to form a slight " bell end" into
> the paper pattern you want to slide on to the new tube.
>
> Gene
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sneaky Wind - Kolb Damage Report |
Hello Pastor Pike,
Have you experienced damage from any of the storms that hit your
state or ,,,,,,, "is the living God, is thy God, whom thou servest
continually, able to deliver thee from the lions?"
Gene
On Apr 8, 2006, at 9:16 AM, Richard Pike wrote:
>
> Boy, I wish I'd read this before I posted my idea 5 minutes ago. I
> like
> yours better.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blumax008(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dan Johnson...a repeat of mine! |
Sounds like a repeat of what happened to me a month ago. I use my Firestar
II for aerial photography. I did a run-up, no problems, taxied down to the end
of the strip, while taxiing I adjusted my camera bag to the other side of the
cockpit...right in front of the mag switches. I then applied takeoff power,
noticed about 5300rpm instead of 6300rpm, thought "that's strange." Took off
anyway, like Dan, made it out (slowly) of our 3,000 ft. strip. While enroute
(slowly) to altitude, the thought clicked (finally) into my weak mind...."I
wonder if that camera bag knocked one of the mag switches to Off?"
Guess what? It did. Things can happen so easily.
Guess what? I don't put my camera bag there anymore.
Bill Catalina
Florida
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Sneaky Wind - Kolb Damage Report |
Since Hebrews 11:32-34 is still true, we did well.
Thanks,
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Eugene Zimmerman wrote:
>
> Hello Pastor Pike,
>
> Have you experienced damage from any of the storms that hit your
> state or ,,,,,,, "is the living God, is thy God, whom thou servest
> continually, able to deliver thee from the lions?"
>
> Gene
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Converting Five Rib Wing To 10 Ribs? |
Bill.
It could be possible.
I would want to keep the top and bottom tubes of the ribs all one piece.
You may be interested in seeing how the Kolb rip off guys make their
ribs.
Check these wing details.
http://n5.se/sK
http://n5.se/sQ
http://n5.se/sR
Please understand I'm not recommending this, just showing you some
ideas.
Gene
On Apr 8, 2006, at 1:00 AM, WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com wrote:
> What do you think of this idea?
>
> On the 5 rib wing, there is one lower false rib centered between
> each full
> rib and there are 3 upper false ribs divided between each full
> rib. Remove
> the center upper and centered lower false ribs. Get another set
> of full ribs
> and cut them in half, right through the center of the main spar
> flange. With
> the rib assembly now in two pieces, assemble them onto the wing
> spars were
> the false ribs were removed. Form a sheet metal piece, similar to
> the flange
> thickness, to splice the cut flanges back together. Fasten the
> new ribs to
> the spars (main, leading and trailing) the same way as the
> existing ribs are.
>
> This would make the wing much stronger and able to tolerate a
> higher Vne.
> (five rib wings are redlined at 75 MPH). The penalty would be a
> heavier
> structure.
>
> Pass on your thoughts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Converting Five Rib Wing To 10 Ribs? |
| From: | "Eugene Zimmerman" <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
Sorry about the dead links.
I'll attach the actual photos.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27054#27054
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fergie_wing292med_236.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fergie_wing292close2_987.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fergie_wing292close1_871.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fergie_wing192med_209.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Schnabel <tnfirestar2(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Interesting Aviation Web Site |
Good afternoon Kolb'ers...
Now I know this is marginally Kolb related (I did find a picture of a Firestar
II among the links which by the way greatly resembled my own!). But I, and I
hope at least a few others that are aviation enthusiasts will find this web site
very interesting. I crossed it seeking some aviation videos. What I discovered
was the most comprehensive collection of aviation videos I have found to
date. Most all the videos I have seen to date are on this site, and then there
are hundreds more I have not seen. I must admit I have wasted the entire day
browsing here!
http://www.alexisparkinn.com/aviation_history.htm
Hope you enjoy. (Be warned, I have broadband internet access, and the speeds
were a tad on the slow side, so you dial up folks, might expect some wait times...)
Waiting for the rains to subside... hoping to plant some grass soon!
Mike S
Firestar2 503
Manchester TN
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Dalton" <wiserguy(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Check out this video! |
All,
Not Kolb related but flying related. The tires look about J.H. size.
Bob D.
Manteca, CA
C:\Documents
and Settings\Bob\My Documents\My
Videos\2006_Alaskan_Bush_Flying_Teaser.wmv
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kfackler" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Michigan Kolbers and other enthusiasts |
As long as we're posting websites, we're proud of this one:
http://www.staliteaviation.com/gtuf/gtuf_menu.html
Not a Kolb-only site, but plenty of Kolb pics there among others. No video.
-Ken Fackler
Kolb Mark II / A722KWF
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Converting Five Rib Wing To 10 Ribs? |
In a message dated 4/8/2006 5:23:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
etzim62(at)earthlink.net writes:
Sorry about the dead links.
I'll attach the actual photos
Thanks Gene,
I see that they have the ribs attached by a bracket or gusset riveted to the
very top of the main spar. This is one area that "Kolb" recommended no
holes be drilled.
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: reusing the H section in a rebuild |
In a message dated 4/8/2006 12:33:19 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
herbgh(at)juno.com writes:
Tracing paper and the large bolt hole as a guide works also.. Done
it two or three times..
Herb,
Thanks for the confirmation of procedure. But why have you already done it
2 or 3 times?
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sneaky Wind - Kolb Damage Report |
In a message dated 4/8/2006 9:00:17 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
richard(at)bcchapel.org writes:
For match drilling the holes, you might try this:
Take just the section of boom where the old holes are at and cut if off
from the rest of the boom tube. Now cut it in half vertically. Verify
that all the holes line up with the straightened H section. Lay each
half on either side of the new tube with an equal gap top and bottom
between the two pieces.
Richard,
Another good idea to try. Boy, one question got a lot of good responses.
Thanks,
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: reusing the H section in a rebuild |
In a message dated 4/8/2006 3:34:26 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
ElleryWeld(at)aol.com writes:
you can use paper if you want but the old tube will help you from a slip
with
that drill in an expensive piece of tube
Ellery,
Expensive is right, especially when you add shipping costs.
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: reusing the H section in a rebuild |
In a message dated 4/8/2006 10:07:12 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
ElleryWeld(at)aol.com writes:
cut
both sides of the old tube for a template be carefull not to get them mixed
up Right and left ,get your 3/8 holes in the tube so they match the cage
slide your H section inside and run the bolt through the templates and new
tube
start drilling from the 3/8 hole outward in both directions installing
clecos
as you go I did it this way and hit every hole without a problem
Ellery,
Thanks for another solution to match drill the holes.
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sneaky Wind - Kolb Damage Report |
In a message dated 4/8/2006 9:00:14 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
etzim62(at)earthlink.net writes:
It is possible to match all the holes. Just drill all the rivets out
and remove the H section.
Then take a large piece of paper and wrap it around the tube snugly
and tape it together securely to form a paper tube. Secure this
paper tube with tape in place where the rivet holes are then
carefully drill or punch the holes in the paper.
Gene,
Thanks for that idea. The boom tube is bent somewhat in that area, so not
sure if the paper would give an accurate location on the new straight tube.
But its an idea to consider and try.
Thanks,
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Converting Five Rib Wing To 10 Ribs? |
In a message dated 4/8/2006 7:45:41 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
slyck(at)frontiernet.net writes:
buy double the amount of flanges to be used and cut them
oversized to overlap the other piece by 1 1/2" or so.
Put the overlap joint at the top and bottom to reduce the
shear load on the rivet pattern
OK BB, Another good idea to consider.
Thanks,
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Converting Five Rib Wing To 10 Ribs? |
| From: | "Possum" <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
Eugene Zimmerman wrote:
> Sorry about the dead links.
> I'll attach the actual photos.
Here are some better ones. :D
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27104#27104
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fff_121.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/wwww_932.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jimmy Hill" <hillstw(at)jhill.biz> |
FOR SALE:
Firestar II, 320 hours total time. Rotax 503 sent to Green Sky for total go -through
at 300 hours. New case, powder coating, etc.
Excellent condition, always hangared.
$9650.
Reply offline, or call 405-743-4455 (Oklahoma)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Splicing suggestion, hinges, & vert. stab & rudder s |
| From: | "DrHook" <csgale(at)yahoo.com> |
On the left wing and ailron thats damaged, I will be splicing the 1 1/4" tubing
with a peice of 1 1/8 tube .058 wall and another peice of .028 wall 1 1/4" peice
that I cut about 1/4" out of, down the lenght of it so it wraps around the
1 1/8" peice for a nice tight fit. then I will rivet, like four rows of rivets
on about 1/2" center. It will be plenty storng, but it is going to ad some weight
in that area. Should I try to add about equel weight somehow on the left
wing in the same area? Or do you think it will matter?
The damaged area of the wing is between the first two ribs from the wingtip. How
long do you guys think I should make the 1 1/8 peice for the splice? I was thinking
about 14" for both the wing and the aileron.
here is a pic of the wing thats damaged.
I got all new hinge material. Do you think its necessary to remove the aileron
hinges in the wing to re-cover?
There is nothing wrong with them. and it will be extemely hard to drill holes in
the new hinges to line up with the holes in the trailing edge of the wing &
the aileron. I know that normally the hinges are to be put on, after the covering,
so the covering is underneath the hinges. I guess I can remove the old one
carefully, and do like you say, just number them for exact placing when its
re-covered. And it would make it harder to cover with the ailerons on.
OK so I guess I anwered my own question there.
Here is a pic of the vertical stab & rudder. Mike mentioned that I might want to
build a more flowing curve shape when I re-build it. Does anyone have suggestions
on this, Maybe even a pattern of such I could use?
Thanks very much for your time and input, in advance.
I was able to remove the rivets in the ribs yesterday and it went really good.
I didnt damage any of the existing holes. A new titanium 1/8" drill bit, did the
trick.
Chris
--------
Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27127#27127
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_4998_copy_957.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_5006_copy_863.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firefly Gap Seal |
| From: | "KenB" <kvbeaupre(at)hotmail.com> |
Hello,
I recently purchased a used Firefly and am interested in replacing the Velcro and
fabric gap seal with a Lexan gap seal like I had on my previous Twinstar Mk.
II. The problem I'm running into is that now I have a BRS 5 mounted in that
location. Does anyone have any thoughts on making a Lexan gap seal that will fit
around the BRS?
Thanks,
Ken
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27181#27181
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar for Sale |
| From: | "oneaviator" <oneaviator(at)msn.com> |
Is the kolb still for sale and if so give contact info - thakns
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27188#27188
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lanny Fetterman <donaho(at)csrlink.net> |
| Subject: | Firefly Gap Seal |
Hi Ken and all, I cut the lexan to fit around the BRS, then put
rubber weather striping ( U-shaped for the edge of a glass pane) on the
inside edge so it wouldn`t mar the BRS . They also sell chrome trim, for
truck bug shields that works well, and looks great. Lanny Fetterman N598LF
Firestar II
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jimmy Hill" <hillstw(at)jhill.biz> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar for Sale |
Yes, Firestar II is for sale. Contact is
hillstw(at)jhill.biz, or 405-743-7850.
Thanks.
Jimmy
----- Original Message -----
From: "oneaviator" <oneaviator(at)msn.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 6:31 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Firestar for Sale
>
> Is the kolb still for sale and if so give contact info - thakns
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27188#27188
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Further adventures in flutter |
My friend, Dave, and I finished up the mods to my Mark III on Thursday,
last. The new, per plans, location of the flap bell cranks gives 3.5" of
clearance to the propeller blades.
Saturday, after changing spark plugs in the 582, I took off to see what the
counter balances did for the ailerons. I advanced the speed by five mile per
hour increments until I was at red line air speed and the ailerons were
happy to stay still. I did not try to excite the ailerons back into a
flutter mode, that will wait for another day. I was just happy to fly and
enjoy the aircraft. Doubled my flight time in the aircraft in one flight.
Thanks again to all who gave suggestions and recommendations.
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | aluminum renforcing angles on the outboard ribs |
| From: | "DrHook" <csgale(at)yahoo.com> |
I am rebuilding the wingtips of the firestar, and will be using 3/8" tubing for
all of the bracing, false rib, instead of the 5/16" and 1/4"
Does anyone have any pics or suggestions from old archives, that show improvements,
such as the aluminum renforcing angles on the outboard ribs etc.
Thanks, Chris
--------
Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27534#27534
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Bennethum" <rbennethum(at)verizon.net> |
I have this MK II on Barnstormers with pics. Last flown on Sunday.
2001 KOLB MK II . $11,000 . PRICE SLASHED . Fly Right Now! Only 51 hrs TT AF&E!
This 2-place ultralight was a 1987 kit finished in 2001 and is a perfect candidate
for Sport Pilot. Features: Rotax 503 SCSI, Wingtip Strobes, Azusa Wheels,
Differential Brakes, No Damage History, Very Light - 350 lbs, Wings Fold For
Easy Storage, Flies and Looks Great! Located Eastern Pa. . Contact Robert Bennethum
III - located Lancaster, PA USA . Telephone: 717-519-7506
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
Question have any of you had the coolant adapter that screws into the
bottom of the heads leak?
When I visited with LEAF I was told that he had not heard of it=85. But
on my 912 I have had 2 of them leak, so I bought a tube of the locktite
648 and proceeded with removing them=85 I was also told that to get the
locktite to let go to get the part out that I would have to get it to
around 400 deg. I could turn these with my thumb and fingers cold=85..
anyway I removed the parts and cleaned the old locktite off them and
proceeded to twist it into in order to check the fit and know how many turns
it would take to reinstall it properly. Not being a tapered thread it
turned in extremely easy, and it turned in 1 =BD more turns than it took to
get it out. So while lining it back up to double check the turns I started
to remove it when things went bad=85 the aluminum somehow got a all balled up
and seized. The threads on the coolant adapter were destroyed and the first
thread in the head is bad. If I put in a tap to clean out the threads
and things go bad I may end up with a new head=85..
Big Question??? Does anyone know of a collapsible tap that can be inserted
into the head, expanded out to fit the good threads in the bottom part of
the hole and clean out the bad threads while removing the tap? I am not
well versed in metric so the best I can tell you is I think it is a 18 mm
size fitting with aprox 24 threads per inch=85 sorry I don=92t have a metric
thread counter.
Boyd Young
Grounded mk III trying to get ready for MV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: galled threads |
Years ago as a newbie in a Honda motorcycle shop, I cleaned some sealant
off the threads of a large diameter aluminum Honda tappet cover which
screwed into the aluminum head on a Honda Super 90. Forgot to reoil or
lube anything and screwed the cover back into the head just like you did
with your Rotax adapter. It seized and had to be destroyed to get it out
of the head. I used a dental pick, and broke the tip off a triangular
needle file to make the rest of the file into a tool to scrape and clean
the threads in the head. But I was poor then, there is probably a better
way, however the dental pick/tedious approach can be made to work. Make
sure you can see clearly exactly what it is that you are doing, or don't
do it. You may not have that option. And you will probably get a better
suggestion than this one.
Real moral to the story: degreasing or cleaning two aluminum parts and
then screwing them together un-lubed is almost as good as welding them
together.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
boyd wrote:
>
> anyway I removed the parts and cleaned the old locktite off them and
> proceeded to twist it So while lining it back up to double check the turns
I started to remove it when things went bad. the aluminum somehow got a
all balled up
> and seized. The threads on the coolant adapter were destroyed and the first
> thread in the head is bad.
>
> Boyd Young
> Grounded mk III trying to get ready for MV
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aluminum renforcing angles on the outboard ribs |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Chris,
Really good move streingthening all those areas. It only adds a few pounds and
adds a huge amount of streingth and stiffness. Here are some pictures of my
MK 3 wing with the streingthening you talk about.
John Hawk is also an expert on improving the streingth and stiffnes of the wings,
he is the one I that suggested this to me.
Dont forget to streingthen the wingtips also. There have been some cases where
the weak tips start to flutter and are just very fragile all around. Hope this
helps you out.
Michael A. Bigelow
--------
NO FEAR - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27592#27592
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00053_108.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00119_203.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Converting Five Rib Wing To 10 Ribs? |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
I really like the idea of douling the number of ribs in the wing. That will only
add a few pounds and will make it a lot stronger.
If more ribs becomes to daunting a task, streingthening the existing ribs is also
a possibility. Attached are some pictures of my MK-III wing with rib streingthening.
I would also suggest streingthening the wingtips while you are at it. There have
been a few reports of wingtip flutter at high speeds, and also that is just
a fragile area that gets a lot of abuse and handling. Streingthening that area
is just a good idea.
--------
NO FEAR - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27601#27601
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00055_120.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00053_169.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00119_151.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jratcli256(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Flight Characteristics of Kolb Mark 3 |
Hi Fellow Kolbers,
I'm new to the list. Received my kit about a month ago.
Have followed the list for a couple of weeks now and picked up on a reference to
the high sink rate of the Kolbs.
I'm a low time pilot currently flying Cessna 172's and the Cherokee 180. Can power
off land a 172 but require some power in the 180 due to the higher sink rate
of this aircraft.
My current understanding is that light aircraft would have a lower sink rate.
Can some of you clarify this for me.
Happy flying,
John Ratcliffe
jratcli256(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: galled threads |
>
>Question have any of you had the coolant adapter that screws into the
>bottom of the heads leak?
>
....................
>Big Question??? Does anyone know of a collapsible tap that can be inserted
>into the head, expanded out to fit the good threads in the bottom part of
>the hole and clean out the bad threads while removing the tap? I am not
>well versed in metric so the best I can tell you is I think it is a 18 mm
>size fitting with aprox 24 threads per inch=85 sorry I don=92t have a metric
>thread counter.
>
>Boyd Young
> Grounded mk III trying to get ready for MV
>
Boyd,
It looks like you need to insert a helicoil. The advantage of a helicoil is
that you an tap out to a larger size, screw in the insert and use the
original or replacement male threaded part. The advantage is that you do
not have to throw away the heads. They are made from stainless steel so
galling it not a problem.
Check out McMasters at:
http://www.mcmaster.com/
and put the words "helicoil" in the "Find" box. From there you should be
able to find what you need.
If you do not want to tackle this on your own, check out some motorcycle
repair shops. They would probably do it for you and a reasonable cost.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Characteristics of Kolb Mark 3 |
As a pilot transitioning to the Mark III, too, I can tell you why. Boatloads
of drag from all the stuff hanging about in the breeze and a propeller disk
that adds a second boatload. My advice, fly it like a 182 and carry power
all the way to the deck.
On 4/11/06, jratcli256(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi Fellow Kolbers,
>
> I'm new to the list. Received my kit about a month ago.
>
> Have followed the list for a couple of weeks now and picked up on a
> reference to the high sink rate of the Kolbs.
>
> I'm a low time pilot currently flying Cessna 172's and the Cherokee 180.
> Can power off land a 172 but require some power in the 180 due to the higher
> sink rate of this aircraft.
>
> My current understanding is that light aircraft would have a lower sink
> rate.
>
> Can some of you clarify this for me.
>
> Happy flying,
> John Ratcliffe
> jratcli256(at)aol.com
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Characteristics of Kolb Mark 3 |
| Can some of you clarify this for me.
|
| Happy flying,
| John Ratcliffe
High drag = high sink rate.
Actually, it is a normal sink rate for a Kolb, for some of us that
have been flying them for a while. What is normal for us is abnormal
for "real" airplane pilots.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Characteristics of Kolb Mark 3 |
I also came from general aviation and wasn't prepared for the high sink rate
of my MKIII. I bent my landing gear because of it. There is noting wrong
with the way our Kolbs fly it's just not what you are used to. Like you have
already been told keep the power up till you are a few inches above the
ground. After you get very used to the flight chrematistics start landing
with less and less power. Do not just decide to suddenly chop the power and
drop all the flaps. Much later when you have lots of experience in your Kolb
move into this mode. It is VERY impressive what can be done. Get someone
like John Hauck demo this for you some time. Wow its a real kick, but the
first time it will scare the shit out of you.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: <jratcli256(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 1:19 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Flight Characteristics of Kolb Mark 3
>
> Hi Fellow Kolbers,
>
> I'm new to the list. Received my kit about a month ago.
>
> Have followed the list for a couple of weeks now and picked up on a
> reference to the high sink rate of the Kolbs.
>
> I'm a low time pilot currently flying Cessna 172's and the Cherokee 180.
> Can power off land a 172 but require some power in the 180 due to the
> higher sink rate of this aircraft.
>
> My current understanding is that light aircraft would have a lower sink
> rate.
>
> Can some of you clarify this for me.
>
> Happy flying,
> John Ratcliffe
> jratcli256(at)aol.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Characteristics of Kolb Mark 3 |
Sink rate in Kolbs is not all that bad. Dead stick, about 500 fpm. On a
thermal-ly day, you can soar. Difference is that you have more drag, and
less weight, which means less inertia. Especially in the flare, where
drag goes up in any event.
And in a Kolb you usually have an engine with a geared prop, which means
when you pull it back to idle at flare, the prop turns into a air brake.
Which all added up, means that if you try and land it like a Cessna, and
flare and chop the power at a Cessna-typical landing position, you will
sit there and watch your airspeed indicator sweep rapidly
counterclockwise as the airplane quickly decelerates and falls out of
the flare. And bends the gear. And all of this is totally normal for
airplanes with high drag and an empty weight of less than 600 pounds.
Not just Kolbs.
Carry a little power until just before touch down. Just enough to give a
tad more than zero thrust. Until JUST BEFORE touchdown. As in 18" or
less. And you will do fine, because the touch of power will make it
feel/act like what you are used to. Then work on landing it without
power and you will be able to get into some really short fields. And in
about twenty hours, you will fall in love.
PS: Do not use flaps for the first ten hours. They increase all the
above drag factors manyfold. Kolb flaps are great, but very powerful in
terms of killing airspeed, ease into them gently. Once you learn & know
Kolb flaps, then you will know why I say this...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
jratcli256(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi Fellow Kolbers,
>
> I'm new to the list. Received my kit about a month ago.
>
> Have followed the list for a couple of weeks now and picked up on a reference
to the high sink rate of the Kolbs.
>
> I'm a low time pilot currently flying Cessna 172's and the Cherokee 180. Can
power off land a 172 but require some power in the 180 due to the higher sink
rate of this aircraft.
>
> My current understanding is that light aircraft would have a lower sink rate.
>
> Can some of you clarify this for me.
>
> Happy flying,
> John Ratcliffe
> jratcli256(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: galled threads |
The helicoil is a great idea, and I've had excellent results with them in
many applications. Just to keep the record straight, tho', stainless to
stainless will gall just as badly as aluminum to aluminum, if not worse.
You MUST lubricate those threads. Been there, done that, and done my share
of cussing over it. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 11:27 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: galled threads
>
>
>>
>>Question have any of you had the coolant adapter that screws into the
>>bottom of the heads leak?
>>
> ....................
>>Big Question??? Does anyone know of a collapsible tap that can be
>>inserted
>>into the head, expanded out to fit the good threads in the bottom part of
>>the hole and clean out the bad threads while removing the tap? I am
>>not
>>well versed in metric so the best I can tell you is I think it is a 18 mm
>>size fitting with aprox 24 threads per inch=85 sorry I don=92t have a
>>metric
>>thread counter.
>>
>>Boyd Young
>> Grounded mk III trying to get ready for MV
>>
>
> Boyd,
>
> It looks like you need to insert a helicoil. The advantage of a helicoil
> is
> that you an tap out to a larger size, screw in the insert and use the
> original or replacement male threaded part. The advantage is that you do
> not have to throw away the heads. They are made from stainless steel so
> galling it not a problem.
>
> Check out McMasters at:
>
> http://www.mcmaster.com/
>
> and put the words "helicoil" in the "Find" box. From there you should be
> able to find what you need.
>
> If you do not want to tackle this on your own, check out some motorcycle
> repair shops. They would probably do it for you and a reasonable cost.
>
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Winchester, IN
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Green" <Kolbdriver(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: galled threads |
Boyd,
If it is just the last thread or two it should be salvagable. Richard's
method may be a little slow but will give good results. As for the metric
threads they are measured peak to peak so 24 per inch would be real close to
2mm pitch. 18 X 2
Steven
I am not well versed in metric so the best I can tell you is I think it
is a 18 mm
> size fitting with aprox 24 threads per inch=85 sorry I don=92t have a
metric
> thread counter.
>
> Boyd Young
> Grounded mk III trying to get ready for MV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Trailering a Firestarll.......thumbs |
a unique ID
Well it looks like I have to move and need a trailer to transport my
Firestar ll to my new home, about 300 miles away. and about 30 miles each
way to the new field once I get there.
Can anyone point me toward a reasonably priced trailer?
Thanks for the help
Gary
Souderton,Pa.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Characteristics of Kolb Mark 3 |
At 10:03 PM 4/11/2006, you wrote:
>
>Non-Kolb musings follow-
>
>This thread got me thinking about the mid-70's when I was an Air Traffic
>Controller in Albany Georgia, at the time when the North American
>Rockwell factory there was converting the Thrush agplane to the PT6
>turbine engine.
(And for those of you
that don't know the details of ATC regs, that is perfectly legal. You
just have to know what to ask for, and how to phrase it...)
-------------------------
He is exactly right ..have to know what to ask for, and how to phrase it.
When for some strange reason you're out of gas
and you have to ask for permission to land because of engine failure.
Well............it failed, didn't it?
(really, you're out of gas at 11,000 ft five miles north of the field)
It is really hard to explain that the ETA
is about 15 minutes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aluminum renforcing angles on the outboard ribs |
| From: | "DrHook" <csgale(at)yahoo.com> |
That looks strong, Michael.
What size is the angle aluminum, & wall thickness? I will at least, do that on
the outer rib. Might be a tad overkill for my little 1 seater Firestar.
The picture tells it all.
Thanks Michael
Chris
--------
Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27835#27835
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aluminum renforcing angles on the outboard ribs |
| From: | "DrHook" <csgale(at)yahoo.com> |
What I meant to say, is it might be a tad overkill to do all the ribs that way.
Chris
--------
Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=27843#27843
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Weight and Balance Arms for a Stock MKIII |
I am about to do my weight and balance and don't think my scales will have
the ability to weigh the aircraft with me in it (I know I could use 2 scales
with a board in between). I was wondering if some of you with a stock MKIII
sling seats and stock fuel location could tell me the arm you were able to
measure with scales for the pilot/passenger and the Fuel. Please let me
know if the datum is anything different than the leading edge of the wing.
I did look in the archives and found some arms for the pilot/passenger but
none for the fuel.
Thanks
Jason
MKIII BMW R100 Engine
Portland OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: galled threads |
I've been a machinist and inspector in the aircraft industry for 34 years. I
try never to use heli-coils for the simple reason that you must seat them
before they can be checked to conform to the thread standard for which they
are intended. If you get it wrong they are a bearcat to dig out and re-do. A
much better alternative is Time-Serts (www.timesert.com). Rather than a coil
of shaped wire, Time-Serts are a machined insert with a tapered outer thread
and use a mandrel to lock them into place. How good are they? I've had them
in the short side of my Shovelhead Harley heads (modified for two plugs per
head) for 13 years and they are as solid today as the day I installed them.
Give the folks at Time Sert a call and ask them about your application. If
you decide to use them, I'm sure you will be very pleased with the results.
On 4/11/06, Larry Bourne wrote:
>
>
> The helicoil is a great idea, and I've had excellent results with them in
> many applications. Just to keep the record straight, tho', stainless to
> stainless will gall just as badly as aluminum to aluminum, if not worse.
> You MUST lubricate those threads. Been there, done that, and done my
> share
> of cussing over it. Lar.
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Building Kolb Mk III
> N78LB Vamoose
> www.gogittum.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, April 11, 2006 11:27 AM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: galled threads
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>
> >>Question have any of you had the coolant adapter that screws into the
> >>bottom of the heads leak?
> >>
> > ....................
> >>Big Question??? Does anyone know of a collapsible tap that can be
> >>inserted
> >>into the head, expanded out to fit the good threads in the bottom part
> of
> >>the hole and clean out the bad threads while removing the tap? I am
> >>not
> >>well versed in metric so the best I can tell you is I think it is a 18
> mm
> >>size fitting with aprox 24 threads per inch=3D85 sorry I don=3D92t have
a
> >>metric
> >>thread counter.
> >>
> >>Boyd Young
> >> Grounded mk III trying to get ready for MV
> >>
> >
> > Boyd,
> >
> > It looks like you need to insert a helicoil. The advantage of a
> helicoil
> > is
> > that you an tap out to a larger size, screw in the insert and use the
> > original or replacement male threaded part. The advantage is that you
> do
> > not have to throw away the heads. They are made from stainless steel so
> > galling it not a problem.
> >
> > Check out McMasters at:
> >
> > http://www.mcmaster.com/
> >
> > and put the words "helicoil" in the "Find" box. From there you should be
> > able to find what you need.
> >
> > If you do not want to tackle this on your own, check out some motorcycle
> > repair shops. They would probably do it for you and a reasonable cost.
> >
> >
> > Jack B. Hart FF004
> > Winchester, IN
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | RE: galled threads. |
Big Question??? Does anyone know of a collapsible tap that can be inserted
into the head....
Boyd Young
Grounded mk III trying to get ready for MV
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Thanks for all that answered on and off the list..... I was able to find a
18 / 1 tap. With shaky hands started to feel my way as I twisted it
into the head... it went in without problems and only required pressure
from my fingers to twist it in and clean out the threads... I removed about
3 or 4 grains of small sand worth of alum. I took the second ell that I
had removed and used it for a trial fit to see if it would work and it
went in and out without problems. As soon as the new part arrives I will
be able to locktite it in place and hopefully be leak free again.
Much relieved
Boyd young
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
At 06:18 PM 4/12/2006, you wrote:
>
>Howdy all
> Someone out ther has pictures of his adjustable stabilizer hinges on a
> Mk3EX. Could it be the preacher? I don't remember his name or web site.
This what you mean? (I took it off and painted it right after this photo
was taken.)
43374c9a.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rlaird" <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
Sorry, here's the photo....
--------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Robert Laird
MkIIIc/912ULS
Houston, TX
http://www.Texas-Flyer.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28053#28053
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/adj_hinge_330.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kolb factory participation vs "barnyard engineering&quo |
| From: | "jadamson" <j-adamson(at)tamu.edu> |
I'll admit, first off, that I'm pretty new to this list and maybe am getting the
wrong impression on a couple of things. I've followed the Zenith list religiously
for a few years now, and that's my only real basis for comparison.
I hear you guys talking about the various mods you're doing to your airplanes and
I can't help but wonder if they're approved by the engineering types that are
still supporting the various Kolb designs. Or if they're just someone's idea
of a better mousetrap, however well-intentioned they may be. And the uninformed
may grab the idea & run with it, not realizing there's no engineering behind
it at all!
I used to hear the Zenith folks talk about these kinds of mods (changing ribs,
strengthening this or that, etc) in terms of what Chris Heinz (designer) endorsed
.. or didn't. Guess I got used to paying attention to what were "approved
mods" and what were not.
So, do any of the Kolb folks ever get involved in these discussions?
Sorry if I'm being an old curmudgeon. I've just seen a few guys crater after making
some mod or other without a clue as to strength of materials, tension, shear
or any of the other topics from the engineering world. Hate it when that
happens!
You guys wouldn't do that kinda thing, would you?? :-) Hope I'm not talking out
of turn here. For all I know - and I'm still learning - there may be a dozen
Kolb engineers on this list that just aren't identified as such. If so, I'll
be embarrassed ... and much relieved!
Thanks ..
John A. (TX)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28056#28056
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Edward Steuber" <esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Kolb engineering |
John A. (TX)
We have a lot of "homegrown engineers"in the spirit of the EAA...and
we all know without the original experimenters the homebuilt movement would
be dead ...some were engineers but most were good ole boys with backgrounds
...a lot of SWAG used...Scientific wild-ass guessing......some are no longer
with us because of their experimenting....but that's progress...and that's freedom....
The majority of Kolbs are N-numbered.....There are some safeguards
in the inspection process after completion of an n-numbered aircraft and if
a major change is made to an aircraft after the certification , then you need
another approval from the powers that be....... Ultralights are exempt from
any regulation or common sense.
Hope this helps ....
Ed in Western NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 3/8" Insead of 5/16" |
| From: | "DrHook" <csgale(at)yahoo.com> |
Besides the wingtips, I am building new Vertical Stabilizer, Rudder, and Elevators.
The Plans show using 5/16" for most all of this. I could not find 5/16" 6061 T6
so I bought 3/8" instead.
What do you guys think? Will that be OK to use?
Thanks Chris
--------
Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28099#28099
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb factory participation vs "barnyard engineering&quo |
On Apr 12, 2006, at 11:57 PM, jadamson wrote:
> I've just seen a few guys crater after making some mod or other
> without a clue as to strength of materials, tension, shear or any
> of the other topics from the engineering world. Hate it when that
> happens!
Welcome John,
You must have been on the wrong list then.
We do not claim to be able to prevent suicide, but I've been on the
kolb list a long time and I have yet to hear of a list member
"crater" their kolb because of mods.
You will get jumped on real good in here if you propose a mod to your
kolb plane that is unsafe.
We do have a few Wilber and Orville types here who will try new things.
In fact, they are the reason that kolb planes are what they are
today. Kolb planes are all someone's experiment.
And yes, we do have engineers on this list.
again, Welcome!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Len du Preez" <Len(at)i5t.co.za> |
| Subject: | Kolb factory participation vs "barnyard engineering&quo |
Kind regards
Len du Preez
083 453 7806
Len(at)I5T.co.za
Hi
My name is Len, I am still trying to make up my mind between the Kolb Kolbra
and the CGS Hawk Arrow...
What would be the Maximum prop diameter to use with a 582 and ebox on the
Kolbra?
Len
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Len du Preez" <Len(at)i5t.co.za> |
| Subject: | Few Quoestion from a posible Kolber... |
Hi
My name is Len, I am still trying to make up my mind between the Kolb Kolbra
and the CGS Hawk Arrow...
What would be the Maximum prop diameter to use with a 582 and ebox on the
Kolbra?
Len
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3/8" Insead of 5/16" |
>
>Besides the wingtips, I am building new Vertical Stabilizer, Rudder, and Elevators.
>The Plans show using 5/16" for most all of this. I could not find 5/16" 6061 T6
so I bought 3/8" instead.
>What do you guys think? Will that be OK to use?
>Thanks Chris
>
>--------
Chris,
Sure it is ok to use but you will building heavy and flying tail heavy forever.
Check out Wicks at: 1-800-221-9425 or at:
http://www.wicksaircraft.com
They have listed 6061-T6 listed.
OD WALL ID WGT P/FT PART NUMBER $/FOOT
5/16" .035 .243 .0366 R5/16X035-T6 1.29
5/16" .049 .215 .0477 R5/16X049-T6 1.13
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)inebraska.com> |
| Subject: | Kolb factory participation vs "barnyard engineering&quo |
The Titan Tornado S and SS (I'm the co-designer of the SS) are very large
in front, and the SS has ample room in the back for me. I'm 6'2", 220 lbs
and have no problem. The center bar hinge swings the door way up so entry
is easy. I have 4" of front and 2" of rear headroom in the S. Add 2" to
both of those for the SS.
There are S and SSs in South Africa to look at. The wings don't fold,
though.
Just wanted to set the record straight. Now, back to your regular Kolb
programming. :>)
J.D. Stewart
UltraFun AirSports, LLC
http://www.ultrafunairsports.com
Challenger e-mail list
http://challenger.inebraska.com
Titan e-mail list
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Titanaircraft/
> Titan Tornados are also way too small up front.
> Kind Regards, Todd
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
On Apr 13, 2006, at 9:28 AM, Jimmy wrote:
> Question's are, can one side of
> this outlet be stopped up, if so, how. Do these outlets come from
> the same
> chamber of the fuel pump?
Yes, they come from the same chamber and one can be closed off with
no problem if not needed.
Bur please check out the rest of your fuel lines.
Only one year old fuel line problem seems to indicate there is some
kind of compatibility issue with fuel/oil mix you are using.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Richard P/Gang:
Got a lot riding on that Tractor Supply steel strap. Could be as
strong as 4130. Maybe not.
I would go with 4130 on an airplane, especially in a critical area
like the horizontal stabilizers.
My thoughts for what they are worth. What you paid for them.
"Nothing fancy, got a length of .080 x 3/4" steel strap from Tractor
Supply, cut out four brackets, and drilled three 3/16" holes in each
bracket."
john h
MKIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jratcli256(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Flight Charistics of Kolb Mark 3 |
Thanks guys for the input.
>From what I'm reading, The Kolb (or any aircraft in this category) seems to have
pretty well negated ground effect.
I found flying conventional aircraft rather boring after the lessons. Was wondering
how to spice it up.
Sounds like I've found the way. At 66 I still find learning fun.
Happy flying.
John Ratcliffe
jratcli256(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
John,
Did you see the bracket?
Those original stainless brackets on the horizontal stabilizer will
fail long before preacher Pike's tractor supply straps ever do.
On Apr 13, 2006, at 12:15 PM, John Hauck wrote:
>
> Richard P/Gang:
>
> Got a lot riding on that Tractor Supply steel strap. Could be as
> strong as 4130. Maybe not.
>
> I would go with 4130 on an airplane, especially in a critical area
> like the horizontal stabilizers.
>
> My thoughts for what they are worth. What you paid for them.
>
> "Nothing fancy, got a length of .080 x 3/4" steel strap from Tractor
> Supply, cut out four brackets, and drilled three 3/16" holes in each
> bracket."
>
> john h
> MKIII
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedl(at)highstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3/8" Insead of 5/16" |
Would'nt the heavier tubing on the elevator and rudder make em more likely
to flutter?
Denny Rowe, Mk-3
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 13, 2006 10:35 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 3/8" Insead of 5/16"
>
>>
>>Besides the wingtips, I am building new Vertical Stabilizer, Rudder, and
>>Elevators.
>>The Plans show using 5/16" for most all of this. I could not find 5/16"
>>6061 T6 so I bought 3/8" instead.
>>What do you guys think? Will that be OK to use?
>>Thanks Chris
>>
>>--------
>
> Chris,
>
> Sure it is ok to use but you will building heavy and flying tail heavy
> forever.
>
> Check out Wicks at: 1-800-221-9425 or at:
>
> http://www.wicksaircraft.com
>
> They have listed 6061-T6 listed.
> OD WALL ID WGT P/FT PART NUMBER $/FOOT
> 5/16" .035 .243 .0366 R5/16X035-T6 1.29
> 5/16" .049 .215 .0477 R5/16X049-T6 1.13
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Winchester, IN
>
>
> --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
,
| Did you see the bracket?
| Those original stainless brackets on the horizontal stabilizer will
| fail long before preacher Pike's tractor supply straps ever do.
|
Gene/Gang:
Yes I did see them.
No, I do not have them installed on my MKIII.
Don't think anyone has heard me rave about the durability of the SS
brackets that Old Kolb began using many years ago.
Yes, there have been some failures of the SS brackets, one relatively
recently.
I still stand by my own standards of not using unknown steel on an
airplane, especially on a critical area. That piece of TSC steel
strap my last forever, or maybe a day. I don't know and am not
willing to bet my ass on it.
Take care,
john h
MKIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flight Charistics of Kolb Mark 3 |
| >From what I'm reading, The Kolb (or any aircraft in this category)
seems to have pretty well negated ground effect.
|
| John Ratcliffe
Kolb aircraft have the advantage of "ground effect" same as any other
fixed or rotary wing aircraft. Our aircraft do not have the weight,
do have the drag, and do not have the inertia that larger GA aircraft
have.
People have problems landing Kolbs early on, primarily because they
fly near the stall, stall them in ground effect, but way to high.
They are trying to land above the ground and not on it.
I have the problem sometimes when I am not paying particular attention
to what I am doing and let the MKIII stall too high and not a few
inches above the ground.
I noticed, flying the airstrip at Sun and Fun this year, my big fat
MKIII had tremendous float if I came in a tad hot, which I like to do
at Lakeland, based on a severe cross wind, coupled with all the
mechanical turbulence generated by other aircraft landing and taking
off very close together. That was with full flaps and clean.
Not once did I experience "Kolb quit" on my flight to, at, or return
to Gantt IAP. Amazing!
john h
MKIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
|| Those original stainless brackets on the horizontal stabilizer
will
|| fail long before preacher Pike's tractor supply straps ever do.
I might add, SS is far less fatigue resistant that carbon steel.
john h
MKIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Aircraft Engineers |
This is in response to the gentleman that commented on all the "shade
tree aircraft engineers" on the Kolb List.
Yep, there are a bunch of us, including the designer of the Kolb
models, Homer Kolb.
Correct me if I am wrong. As far as I know, Homer Kolb is an 8th
grade high school graduate. That was normal for students to graduate
in Pennsylvania at the 8th grade. My Dad did the same thing many
years prior to Homer's graduation. I believe Homer is a self taught
aircraft designer and engineer. I doubt he has any formal schooling
or a diploma as an aircraft engineer.
As some one else pointed out, we do have our share of "real" aircraft
engineers on the Kolb List. Yes, they will set you straight if you
attempt to vary too far from the norm. ;-)
Take care,
john h
MKIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
On Apr 13, 2006, at 1:53 PM, John Hauck wrote:
> I might add, SS is far less fatigue resistant that carbon steel.
>
> john h
> MKIII
Yup, I'd like to see kolb come up with a better solution for this
vulnerable part.
It may be adequate for flight loads but I know from experience that
that part gets a real workout at times when ground handling the plane.
It is so easy to grab on to the LE of one horizontal stab at that point.
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Engineers |
John and others,
Homer's designs have been checked out thoroughly by Dennis Souder who is a degreed
engineer. Dennis found that Homer actually over-designed the Firestar in some
areas.
Ralph
Original Firestar
19 years flying it
-- "John Hauck" wrote:
This is in response to the gentleman that commented on all the "shade
tree aircraft engineers" on the Kolb List.
Yep, there are a bunch of us, including the designer of the Kolb
models, Homer Kolb.
Correct me if I am wrong. As far as I know, Homer Kolb is an 8th
grade high school graduate. That was normal for students to graduate
in Pennsylvania at the 8th grade. My Dad did the same thing many
years prior to Homer's graduation. I believe Homer is a self taught
aircraft designer and engineer. I doubt he has any formal schooling
or a diploma as an aircraft engineer.
As some one else pointed out, we do have our share of "real" aircraft
engineers on the Kolb List. Yes, they will set you straight if you
attempt to vary too far from the norm. ;-)
Take care,
john h
MKIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Adamson <j-adamson(at)tamu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb engineering |
Ed
Thanks for the reminder about N-numbering and subsequent approvals to
any mods. And, yes, it helps keep things in perspective.
Thx again.
John A
Edward Steuber wrote:
>
>John A. (TX)
> We have a lot of "homegrown engineers"in the spirit of the EAA...and
we all know without the original experimenters the homebuilt movement would
be dead ...some were engineers but most were good ole boys with backgrounds
...a lot of SWAG used...Scientific wild-ass guessing......some are no longer
with us because of their experimenting....but that's progress...and that's freedom....
> The majority of Kolbs are N-numbered.....There are some safeguards
in the inspection process after completion of an n-numbered aircraft and
if a major change is made to an aircraft after the certification , then you need
another approval from the powers that be....... Ultralights are exempt from
any regulation or common sense.
> Hope this helps ....
>
Ed in Western NY
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I am a pedigreed Aircraft Engineer and Homer's design is great. Before I flew I
did a lot of calculations and found two areas I redesigned (Aileron Hinges and
upper rib element just fwd of the spar). I could not design a plane with the
simplicity that Kolb achieved. However !, what still curls my toes after flying
a Firestar for 13 years is the single point failure points where one bolt
or element breaking is going to ruin your wifes day.
Dick C
St.Louis
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 4/13/06 8:29:39 AM Central Daylight Time,
jhankin(at)planters.net writes:
> Gates premium lines. Have tried to
> get boat fuel lines but cannot fine it in 1/4".
>
Jimmy, I did some reasearch on this last year, Gates line may breakdown over
time from the inside because it is not designed for oil mix fuel. At that
time I found some sources for marine grade outbourd line in all sizes. Problem
was that it was too stiff to kink and make the normal primer bypass that we all
use. I decided to go back to the extra thick urethane line like Rotax uses on
the fuel pump.
I think next time around I will use the marine grade for everything and the
clear stuff for the bypass line.
If you got a hole next to the fuel pump consider the fact that you my have
pinched it with the aileron arm during wing fold. Thetas what I did.
Try searching for "marine grade fuel line" if you want to use the boat
stuff. I think West Marine carries the right size. I think 1/4" is too small.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> what still curls my toes after flying a Firestar for 13 years is the single point
failure points where one bolt or element breaking is going to ruin your wifes
day
Dick:
A couple ways to look at that.
1-Don't get married.
2-Make sure your bolts, cables, and hardware are serviceable.
How many airplanes, "real" and our type, have redundant attachments at every point?
I don't know of any right off hand.
Our little airplanes have a good track/safety record. Up to us to make sure we
fly with the best.
john h
MKIII
--------
John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler, alabama
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28223#28223
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Adamson <j-adamson(at)tamu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Engineers |
John H ..
Thanks for the reply and, yep, I'm the guilty party who raised the
question. Don't believe I went so far as to refer to anyone as a 'shade
tree engineer' but, if I offended anyone, my apologies.
And you're probably right about Homer's education & background. That
wasn't really the question. The design seems pretty well proven -
regardless of the designer's formal skills - but it was the mods I was
more interested in. Homer probably had a given number of materials
available for a/c use when the first design went out. Today, we have
lots more and of varying quality. As someone mentioned in another
thread, a given Tractor Supply steel strap may come from a "good" batch
.. or it may not .. but do you want to bet your ass on it? Same goes
for the discussion on 5/16" vs 3/8" 6061.
But you're right. There are likely a goodly number of engineers on the
list to remind us of the pros/cons on these things, and that's all I was
wondering about.
Thx again ..
John A
John Hauck wrote:
>
>This is in response to the gentleman that commented on all the "shade
>tree aircraft engineers" on the Kolb List.
>
>Yep, there are a bunch of us, including the designer of the Kolb
>models, Homer Kolb.
>
>Correct me if I am wrong. As far as I know, Homer Kolb is an 8th
>grade high school graduate. That was normal for students to graduate
>in Pennsylvania at the 8th grade. My Dad did the same thing many
>years prior to Homer's graduation. I believe Homer is a self taught
>aircraft designer and engineer. I doubt he has any formal schooling
>or a diploma as an aircraft engineer.
>
>As some one else pointed out, we do have our share of "real" aircraft
>engineers on the Kolb List. Yes, they will set you straight if you
>attempt to vary too far from the norm. ;-)
>
>Take care,
>
>john h
>MKIII
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Adamson <j-adamson(at)tamu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Engineers |
Thanks, Ralph.
Knowing a design has been checked out is always nice to know but, as
mentioned in another post, it was the *mods* to that design I was
curious about.
Thx again ..
John A
Ralph wrote:
>
>John and others,
>
>Homer's designs have been checked out thoroughly by Dennis Souder who is a degreed
engineer. Dennis found that Homer actually over-designed the Firestar in
some areas.
>
>Ralph
>Original Firestar
>19 years flying it
>
>
>-- "John Hauck" wrote:
>
>This is in response to the gentleman that commented on all the "shade
>tree aircraft engineers" on the Kolb List.
>
>Yep, there are a bunch of us, including the designer of the Kolb
>models, Homer Kolb.
>
>Correct me if I am wrong. As far as I know, Homer Kolb is an 8th
>grade high school graduate. That was normal for students to graduate
>in Pennsylvania at the 8th grade. My Dad did the same thing many
>years prior to Homer's graduation. I believe Homer is a self taught
>aircraft designer and engineer. I doubt he has any formal schooling
>or a diploma as an aircraft engineer.
>
>As some one else pointed out, we do have our share of "real" aircraft
>engineers on the Kolb List. Yes, they will set you straight if you
>attempt to vary too far from the norm. ;-)
>
>Take care,
>
>john h
>MKIII
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 4/13/06 3:01:24 PM Central Daylight Time,
jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com writes:
>
> >what still curls my toes after flying a Firestar for 13 years is the single
> point failure points where one bolt or element breaking is going to ruin
> your wifes day
>
>
B R S, don't leave home without it.
Don't get me wrong, a BRS is not fool proof or an option in all cases. In my
firefly on floats, most of my flying is at 20 feet. However I flew for years
at 10,000 ft with no options.
Steve B
Firefly #007 on floats
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
No way it is as strong as 4130. That's why it is eighty thousandths. Per
bracket.
Two per side. To hold two 1/16" thick stainless tangs that are stressed
in twist.
The stress point in that whole assembly is where the tangs are riveted
to the stab.
Which is made out of .049 aluminum tubing. Which is stressed in twist
against the rivet.
Yet you are correct, 4130 would have been more "airplaney,"
but with the original Piper J-3's, J-4's, and J-5's being built out of
1020 mild steel,
and still doing fine today, I doubt I'll lose any sleep worrying about a
couple 3"
long mild steel long brackets that are .080 thick, with the load running
favorably to the bracket.
Does that mean that we can use mild steel just anywhere and get away
with it?
Certainly not. And now that this has come up, I will go back and modify
the web page,
deleting the reference to Tractor Supply so as not to encourage bad habits.
No way would I want to encourage anybody to do anything unsafe.
But I don't plan to change out the present brackets...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
John Hauck wrote:
>
> Richard P/Gang:
>
> Got a lot riding on that Tractor Supply steel strap. Could be as
> strong as 4130. Maybe not.
>
> I would go with 4130 on an airplane, especially in a critical area
> like the horizontal stabilizers.
>
> My thoughts for what they are worth. What you paid for them.
>
> "Nothing fancy, got a length of .080 x 3/4" steel strap from Tractor
> Supply, cut out four brackets, and drilled three 3/16" holes in each
> bracket."
>
> john h
> MKIII
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
frcole(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> However !, what still curls my toes after flying a Firestar for 13 years is the
single point failure points where one bolt or element breaking is going to
ruin your wifes day.
> Dick C
> St.Louis
Spend the money for a Good BRS Chute. We all know that the BRS is not a guarantee,
but it is pretty darn good. The Kolb has a great safety record, that combined
with the good record of the Kolb makes airframe failure a non-issue in my
book.
With both of those things working for me, chances are the drive to the airfield
is more dangerous than flying the Kolb with my BRS.
Michael A. Bigelow
--------
NO FEAR - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28263#28263
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3/8" Insead of 5/16" |
At 09:35 AM 4/13/2006, you wrote:
>
> >
> >Besides the wingtips, I am building new Vertical Stabilizer,
> Rudder, and Elevators.
> >The Plans show using 5/16" for most all of this. I could not find
> 5/16" 6061 T6 so I bought 3/8" instead.
> >What do you guys think? Will that be OK to use?
> >Thanks Chris
> >
> >--------
>
>Chris,
>
>Sure it is ok to use but you will building heavy and flying tail
>heavy forever.
>
>Check out Wicks at: 1-800-221-9425 or at:
>
>http://www.wicksaircraft.com
>
>They have listed 6061-T6 listed.
>OD WALL ID WGT P/FT PART NUMBER $/FOOT
>5/16" .035 .243 .0366 R5/16X035-T6 1.29
>5/16" .049 .215 .0477 R5/16X049-T6 1.13
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Winchester, IN
Here's another source:
http://shapirosupply.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=4&Itemid=5
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb engineering |
Ed, et al, The subject of changes to the aircraft, both major and minor, and
the effect of the changes as to operation of the aircraft are discussed on
many lists. It comes down to what was written into your operating
limitations. Even major changes, a prop or an engine for example, may only
require a logbook notation and reverting back to the test area limitations
for 5 to 10 hours. The FAA has changed the wording of operating limitations
in the last few years. If you find your operating limitations are the older,
more restrictive version you can petition your local FSDO to amend and
upgrade them to the new wording.
On 4/13/06, John Adamson wrote:
>
>
> Ed
>
> Thanks for the reminder about N-numbering and subsequent approvals to
> any mods. And, yes, it helps keep things in perspective.
>
> Thx again.
> John A
>
> Edward Steuber wrote:
>
> esteuber(at)rochester.rr.com>
> >
> >John A. (TX)
> > We have a lot of "homegrown engineers"in the spirit of
> the EAA...and we all know without the original experimenters the homebuilt
> movement would be dead ...some were engineers but most were good ole boys
> with backgrounds ...a lot of SWAG used...Scientific wild-ass
> guessing......some are no longer with us because of their
> experimenting....but that's progress...and that's freedom....
> > The majority of Kolbs are N-numbered.....There are some
> safeguards in the inspection process after completion of an n-numbered
> aircraft and if a major change is made to an aircraft after the
> certification , then you need another approval from the powers that
> be....... Ultralights are exempt from any regulation or common sense.
> > Hope this helps ....
> >
Ed
> in Western NY
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 3/8" Insead of 5/16" |
| From: | "DrHook" <csgale(at)yahoo.com> |
Well, Allrighty then, Looks like I be orderin up some 5/16.
Got to get some other supplies and it looks like Wicks, pretty much has it all.
Thanks for the advice, Chris
--------
Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28326#28326
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> engineering&quo |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb factory participation vs "barnyard engineering&quo |
>...........................
>I hear you guys talking about the various mods you're doing to your
airplanes and I can't help but wonder if they're approved by the engineering
types that are still supporting the various Kolb designs. Or if they're
just someone's idea of a better mousetrap, however well-intentioned they may
be. And the uninformed may grab the idea & run with it, not realizing
there's no engineering behind it at all!
>...........................
John,
What would you do if you spent several years building and spending some
where around $10,000 and ended up with a ultra light vehicle that was
difficult to fly? At cruise, roll control was almost impossible, so I
changed from 15 to 9 inch chord ailerons and modified the "T" bar length.
Before the change I queried the factory and was told "Its an ultra light,
don't fly in the middle of the day". At this point, one can fly it any time
of the day and it can be flown off an on the ground in cross
winds.
The flaperons were useless because the control handle was placed too far
forward and low on the right hand side of the cockpit. The control handle
could not be reached while wearing a five point harness. Also, there was no
way one would change hands on the stick to manipulate them in rough air or
on final. I installed new control on the left side under the seat so the
throttle hand could adjust the flaperons. This change along with vortex
generators, let me three point the FireFly at lower speeds than
before.
I changed engines so that engine start up can be performed while sitting the
cockpit. My right shoulder is a wreck and I am too old to try an get in the
cockpit with the engine running and the plane trying to run me down. The
engine change was tough, but worth it. Currently, I am consistently
cruising at less than two gallons per hour.
At this point the FireFly is a joy to fly during any time of the day. I
prefer to fly at 2pm when the air is the most active. It goes where it is
supposed to go when one displaces the stick and rudder pedals and without
complaint (excess if stick or rudder forces).
These are the major changes that I have made. Currently the FireFly weighs
just under 250 pounds dry. So I have four pounds to use up. And so it
goes!!!
The good thing about this list is that people report what they do, and
others may or may not debate whether the effect is good or bad. But when it
comes down to you, you have to assume responsibility for your own aircraft.
If you are going to fly it up at Vne etc., you might want to beef it up and
accept additional weight degraded performance.
To be fair to Kolb, they cannot be held responsible for what others are
going to do to their designs. There is no way they could put out the hours
that an old retired guy can to check out mods to their design. They would
go broke, and this would deprive others of the chance to fly a Kolb design.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <livair(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | R Wing needed for Firestar |
We need a right wing for a Firestar II? Anybody have an old one reasonably
priced? Uncovered and/or minor damage ok. I talked to the factory guys at Sun-N-Fun
and they said try this list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Oxygen Sensor on a Two Stroke Engine |
Kolbers,
Have you or do you know of anyone who has mounted an oxygen sensor on a two
stroke engine?
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: R Wing needed for Firestar |
On Apr 14, 2006, at 9:08 AM,
wrote:
>
> We need a right wing for a Firestar II? Anybody have an old one
> reasonably
> priced? Uncovered and/or minor damage ok. I talked to the factory
> guys at Sun-N-Fun and they said try this list.
Uh Oh!
Sounds like there is a story behind this.
You probably should plan to rebuild the wing.
A good used wing will be very hard to come by.
Sometimes it is surprising how many parts can be salvaged.
Wishing you success,
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oxygen Sensor on a Two Stroke Engine |
>
>Jack
>
> Wonder how the O2 sensor would handle the oil mix? Herb
>
Herb,
I am using Opti-2 which seems to be a non smoke oil. I have emailed them to
ask if their oil would kill an O2 sensor, but I have not recieved a reply.
The position for O2 sensor placement has already been predetermined. I
placed a second EGT probe down stream from the position recommended by
Simoninni. My thought was that if the plugs read rich and the EGT was
running at the upper limit maybe a probe down stream would read lower. It
did not. It consistently reads 100 degrees F hotter. So when I take off
the second EGT sensor, I will weld an O2 sensor adaptor to the pipe at this
location.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Not much chatter on the Kolb-List regarding Sun 'N Fun ... did I
miss out on anything spectacular, like Ultralight Wing Walking etc.?
|
| Bill Vincent
Hi Bill:
Had a nice relaxed week's vacation at S&F. Not much happening. Crowd
was down, as were the waiting lines and the UL traffic pattern.
I helped out a little by flying my MKIII daily. Dick Rahill flew the
yellow FSII.
The UL wing walker did her thing during the night airshow. Result was
darkness and we could not see anything but the pyrotechnics streaming
off the Quicksilver.
Most of the folks I see at S&F each year did not show. I did get to
see a few of the old standbys.
Had a good flight down, 5.0 hours, and a good return flight, 5.5
hours. Direct cross wind both ways.
The MKIII and 912ULS performed flawlessly, except when I forgot to
turn off my GPS and ran the battery down overnight. Got a jump start
next morning and 45 minutes flying got the Hawker Odessey back up to
snuff. Was an excellent reminder to make sure everything was turned
off prior to exixting the aircraft.
Have seen the guy that used to land his Pitts inverted in years. Had
forgotten about him until you mentioned it.
Tak
Take care,
john h
MKIII/912ULS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New video from Montreal |
| From: | "Noel" <noel(at)teledata.qc.ca> |
Hello all !
I had a wonderfull flight today ! Spring has "almost" arrived in our northern country
... but the leaves are not really out yet ...
I am sending a video made with a camera-phone ...
This is a 360 degree over a small town called Oka, located on the Lac des deux
montagnes near Montreal. The quality is not the best ... but the scenery is great
!
Have a great Easter hollyday !
Noel
1990 Twinstark MKII
Rotax 503
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28479#28479
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/_oka2500pi166_209.3gp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: R Wing needed for Firestar |
| From: | "Livair" <Livair(at)bellsouth.net> |
Are there other models that have the same wing? Is the Twinstar or Ultrastar wing
by any chance the same?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28488#28488
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oxygen Sensor on a Two Stroke Engine |
I go on O2 at 1000'! -- how could I manage that in a Kolb ? Maybe I'd
never fly that high anyway -->>
Hi Russ,
I assume you meant 10,000 ft..
Mick Moulai tells me today that he had my Xtra up to 10500ft and still
climbing yesterday as part of the test programme on my machine.
The programme is almost finished and I may actually get my hands on the
plane myself in the next couple of weeks.
Cheers
Pat
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New video from Montreal |
| From: | "Noel" <noel(at)teledata.qc.ca> |
Hello Bill !
Thanks for your comments !
This was at 2500 feet ... the higest altitude allowed in that area (without contacting
the Mirabel airport tower).
Nol
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28578#28578
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Shaking strut ... |
| From: | "Noel" <noel(at)teledata.qc.ca> |
Hello all !
I have often noticed some vibration of the wing struts of my Twinstar MK II .
This happens at a given RPM when the strut seems to hit a "resonance" point and
start to vibrate. This never bothered me too much as it seems to only happens
at a RPM of around 4500 .
Now ... i took some picture with my camera phone while flying yesterday
that happens to "catch " these vibrations on the picture.
I have been quite surprised when i saw that picture with the apparently quite large
amplitude of the vibration ! Quite amazing ... but it could also be
an optical "effect" created or amplified by the relatively low shutter speed of
the camera ...
In any case i am now thinking of installing wing strut fairings to try tio fix
the "problem" .
I have seen some modular plastic fairing that can easily be installed on a Rans
S-12 (i think) ... These are made of 2 plastic parts that "snap" together to
form a "water drop" shaped fairing ...
Any one could submit a source for these ?
Good and safle flying to all ...
Noel Bouchard
Twinstar MK II
350 Hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28579#28579
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/shakingstrut_987.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| The programme is almost finished and I may actually get my hands on
the
| plane myself in the next couple of weeks.
|
| Cheers
|
| Pat
Patrick:
Here in the States we get to be our own test pilot for our own
aircraft.
Is there a requirement for a designated person to test your homebuilt
aircraft?
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blumax008(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Shaking strut ... |
In a message dated 4/15/2006 2:44:16 PM Eastern Standard Time,
noel(at)teledata.qc.ca writes:
In any case i am now thinking of installing wing strut fairings to try tio
fix the "problem" .
My '04 and 503 powered Firestar II does the same thing depending on how the
503 feels like eating it's oats. I have the strut fairings too...same deal. I
let the sumbitch vibrate. If the strut fails, I got the 'chute.
Wild Bill Catalina
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blumax008(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: BRS Deployment... |
I figured that would get someone's attention! LOL!
This is just food for thought for all you potential BRS deployers out there.
I use my Firestar II for aerial photography for a major developer here in
north Florida.
I shoot at 12,000 ft. every week. Yes, it'll go that high, just be patient,
breathe good & carry lots of fuel for the long burn. Anyway, I was waaay up
there freezing my butt off, banking hard over, getting scared again & started
thinking....
Me thinking..."You know, with this 40mph north wind blowing & me being over
the coast, if I had an accidental 'chute deployment, I'd be at least 5 miles
out in the Gulp of Mexico before I landed in the water! Also, if I did
actually have to use that sucker & deployed it too soon at too high an
altitude...I'd be at least 5 miles out in the Gulp of Mexico!"
So...my point being, & I don't think this has ever been brought up...be
concious of where you are, how high you are & where the wind may blow you if you
really do need to use a 'chute! I've never heard of it happening before but
an accidental or intentional deployment (at altitude) could put your butt in a
very serious situation. Be prepared to ride it down to a safer altitude
before deployment...if needed...and hope the sumbitch doesn't ever accidentally
deploy due to some brain or equipment malfunction.
I'm even thinking about removing it. This is the first aircraft I've ever
had in 28 years of flying ultralights that had a BRS. Be somethin' if I saved
myself via BRS...only to drown later. Like I said...food for thought.
Wild Bill Catalina
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BRS Deployment... |
| From: | "N111KX (Kip)" <n111kx(at)mindspring.com> |
Just ride it down to 700 AGL then pull Big Red:)
Kip
--------
Kip
Firestar II (born September 2000)
Atlanta, GA
N111KX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28591#28591
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS Deployment... |
| I'm even thinking about removing it. Be somethin' if I saved
| myself via BRS...only to drown later. Like I said...food for
thought.
|
| Wild Bill Catalina
Heard the very same statement several times from different pilots over
the years, "thinking about removing it."
I can assure you, if you need it and it is laying on the bench in the
hangar, you gonna wish you had it.
Might be a good idea to purchase and wear an inflatable PFD when
flying near and or over water. I bought one a few days prior to
flying to S&F from Acft Spruce. Paid $118.00 for it. Will be worth
every penny if the time should arise when I need it, and I have it
firmly attached to my body.
Deciding when and where one will deploy their BRS during an emergency
situation may live little room for decision making at different
altitudes.
>From personal experience, I did not have a choice either time. It was
imperative to make the decision immediately or die.
Another point to consider is:
If and when the emergency arises, the aircraft may not be in a docile,
stable descent. It very well make be tumbling rapidly, spinning
wildly, with such centrifugal force that one may not be able to raise
a hand to find, grasp, and pull the deployment handle.
If one can afford to install a ballistic recovery system, one should.
One should also not be afraid to use it, should the situation present
itself. It gives you another chance when all other options have
expired.
Take care,
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS Deployment... |
| Deciding when and where one will deploy their BRS during an
emergency
| situation may live little room for decision making at different
| altitudes.
The above should have read:
"Deciding when and where one will deploy their BRS during an emergency
situation my leave little room for decision making at different
altitudes."
Thanks,
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | russ kinne <kinnepix(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BRS Deployment... |
Wild Bill
FWIW -- did you ever consider wearing a divers wet-suit jacket?
Comfortable, good insulation, and if you ditch you'd be afloat, face
up and out of the water, conscious or not. I use them over cold water
where the legal preservers would keep you afloat and dead. I'd rather
be illegal and alive
On Apr 15, 2006, at 3:20 PM, Blumax008(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> I figured that would get someone's attention! LOL!
>
> This is just food for thought for all you potential BRS deployers
> out there.
> I use my Firestar II for aerial photography for a major developer
> here in
> north Florida.
>
> I shoot at 12,000 ft. every week. Yes, it'll go that high, just be
> patient,
> breathe good & carry lots of fuel for the long burn. Anyway, I was
> waaay up
> there freezing my butt off, banking hard over, getting scared
> again & started
> thinking....
>
> Me thinking..."You know, with this 40mph north wind blowing & me
> being over
> the coast, if I had an accidental 'chute deployment, I'd be at
> least 5 miles
> out in the Gulp of Mexico before I landed in the water! Also, if I
> did
> actually have to use that sucker & deployed it too soon at too
> high an
> altitude...I'd be at least 5 miles out in the Gulp of Mexico!"
>
> So...my point being, & I don't think this has ever been brought
> up...be
> concious of where you are, how high you are & where the wind may
> blow you if you
> really do need to use a 'chute! I've never heard of it happening
> before but
> an accidental or intentional deployment (at altitude) could put
> your butt in a
> very serious situation. Be prepared to ride it down to a safer
> altitude
> before deployment...if needed...and hope the sumbitch doesn't ever
> accidentally
> deploy due to some brain or equipment malfunction.
>
> I'm even thinking about removing it. This is the first aircraft
> I've ever
> had in 28 years of flying ultralights that had a BRS. Be somethin'
> if I saved
> myself via BRS...only to drown later. Like I said...food for thought.
>
> Wild Bill Catalina
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Deckard" <mustangsally(at)semo.net> |
Anyone ever put an HKS on a Firestar? With fuel prices I am considering it.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Streamline Lift Struts / (sleeves)Homemade |
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Fairings turned out great!
What thickness alumuninum sheet did you use?
--------
John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler, alabama
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28622#28622
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Anyone ever put an HKS on a Firestar? With fuel prices I am
considering it.
|
| Jerry
Gerry Olenik was my next door neighbor while camping at S&F. We
talked about HKS and FS. I believe he is going to do some
investigating into the possibility of an HKS powered FS.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Deckard" <mustangsally(at)semo.net> |
Thanks,
I have a new 447 and box, that would help offset the cost of the HKS.
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2006 6:16 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: HKS
>
> | Anyone ever put an HKS on a Firestar? With fuel prices I am
> considering it.
> |
> | Jerry
>
> Gerry Olenik was my next door neighbor while camping at S&F. We
> talked about HKS and FS. I believe he is going to do some
> investigating into the possibility of an HKS powered FS.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Streamline Lift Struts / (sleeves)Homemade |
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Those fairings over some round 4130 lift struts would probably work well. Be nice
and solid.
--------
John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler, alabama
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28628#28628
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | FireStar II sunset flight |
Greetings,
This video was taken yesterday a little after sunset. It has been very
windy here in the southwest so anytime we get calm air we go out and fly.
_http://home.elp.rr.com/youngeagle/sunsetflight.wmv_
(http://home.elp.rr.com/youngeagle/sunsetflight.wmv)
Enjoy,
Guillermo Uribe
FireStar II N4GU
El Paso, TX
_http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/_ (http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/)
_http://members.aol.com/ELPEAA125/_ (http://members.aol.com/ELPEAA125/)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FireStar II sunset flight |
Enjoyed the video. Place looks familiar.
Your pulsating landing lights are very effective. They are difficult
to ignore, and more noticeable than the strobes when flying head on.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cspoke" <cspoke(at)gulftel.com> |
Hi Bill,
I'm new to posting on the list. I've been reading for several months and got alot
of good information. Sun N Fun was good for me. While I was there, I purchased
a Mark 111 Xtra kit. I meet the Kolb factory people and John Hauck. Great
people with a great airplane. I can't wait to start building. I'm sure that I
will have many questions. BTW Bill, I see that you are in the UP. I recently moved
from Michigan to the Gulf Coast of Alabama. No snow here. My Dad is from
Iron River Michigan. The family still has a hunting camp there. Oh,,,,the show
at Sun N Fun was good too. Lots of airplanes to look at.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28642#28642
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: FireStar II sunset flight |
Great video Will.
What kind of the lights and strobe?
And how did you do the landing light pulse?
I think I need to spend some money for that sort of setup...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
WillUribe(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Greetings,
>
> This video was taken yesterday a little after sunset. It has been very
> windy here in the southwest so anytime we get calm air we go out and fly.
>
> _http://home.elp.rr.com/youngeagle/sunsetflight.wmv_
> (http://home.elp.rr.com/youngeagle/sunsetflight.wmv)
>
> Enjoy,
> Guillermo Uribe
> FireStar II N4GU
> El Paso, TX
> _http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/_ (http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/)
> _http://members.aol.com/ELPEAA125/_ (http://members.aol.com/ELPEAA125/)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Streamline Lift Struts / (sleeves)Homemade |
| From: | "Possum" <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
planecrazzzy wrote:
> Hey guys,
>
> I've been making some streamline lift struts(sleeves) for my Firestar II
>
> When I fly with the "stock" lift struts...They sometimes start to
>
> vibrate and wiggle in flight.....I bought some aluminum and sheared
>
> two pieces 70" x 9 1/4" ....I put them thru the rollers a few times
>
> until they had about a 20" radius to them,Then with a "knife edge"
>
> and a rubber lower die....I bent them in half in the Break.....
>
>
> .
I did almost the same thing - except used a lot thiner alum - rolled the edges
just enough to wrap around the top & bottom of the struts 1/2 inch +-, then bent
in half with a "break" like you did. Used rivets to attach to the struts. It
also eliminated the vibrating strut problem with out adding more tha a pound
of weight. T6061 alum - I think?
Don't have any real close up pictures, the rolled edges are hard to see anyway.
It make more of a tear drop shape - but the difference in drag is negligible
at our speeds.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28661#28661
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/seat2_832.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/seat1_270.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Alternitive Engines For Firestar |
Jerry
I don't know much about the package but something to consider is the Generac
engine Valley Engineering is developing a reduction drive for.
http://www.culverprops.com/new-engine.htm These are the guys that make the
redrive for my VW. They have spent considerable effort in taming the
harmonic vibrations that the engine/psru/prop has with the V twin engine
configuration. They have some long term hope to completely smooth out my VW
with a similar solution.
Food for thought and a much lower price solution.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Deckard" <mustangsally(at)semo.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2006 7:34 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: HKS
>
> Thanks,
> I have a new 447 and box, that would help offset the cost of the HKS.
> Jerry
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2006 6:16 PM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: HKS
>
>
>>
>> | Anyone ever put an HKS on a Firestar? With fuel prices I am
>> considering it.
>> |
>> | Jerry
>>
>> Gerry Olenik was my next door neighbor while camping at S&F. We
>> talked about HKS and FS. I believe he is going to do some
>> investigating into the possibility of an HKS powered FS.
>>
>> john h
>> mkIII
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FireStar II sunset flight |
This video was taken yesterday a little after sunset.>>
Hi Will,
nice pics and your lights are great.
In the UK it is illegal to fly ultralights after sunset. Not so in the
States?
Cheers
Pat
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FireStar II sunset flight |
| In the UK it is illegal to fly ultralights after sunset. Not so in
the
| States?
|
| Cheers
|
| Pat
US UL's may fly 30 minutes after sunset with appropriate anticollision
light system.
Will's FS is registered amateur homebuilt experimental. If it is
equipped with navigation lights and noted by the inspector during
certification, it may be flown at night. I had my MKIII registered
for night flight, primarily, to cover me insurancewise if I should get
caught out after dark and break it.
Take care,
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)aol.com |
Hi gang, Does anyone that attended Sun & Fun have pictures they may want to
post and share with others on the list who couldnt make it ?
Thanks
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nose Fairing, & other parts for the Firestar |
| From: | "DrHook" <csgale(at)yahoo.com> |
I am trying to fix the damaged nose fairing on my Firestar. Its pretty buggered
up and was wondering how much a new one would cost me.
I have checked the New Kolb Aircrafts Website, and even E-mailed for a pricelist,
to no avail.
Anybody know how or where to look for stuff?
There are some other specific Firestar parts I will be replacing during the re-build.
Thanks Chris
--------
Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28701#28701
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | FireStar II sunset flight |
Hi Mr Poops,
The nav lights and strobes are from Dick Kuntzleman of Kuntzleman
Electronics. I got them because they use less power then all the others. The
strobes
don't show up as good on the video because they are not in synchronization
with the camera's shutter.
http://www.kestrobes.com/
For the landing lights I used a 3 way heavy duty toggle switch. Up is on,
middle is off and down is connected to an alternating flasher that I got from
a store that sells lights to emergency vehicles. The flasher part number is
Federal FA3 and costs about $22.50.
I normally don't use the landing lights because they will drain my battery.
We have some pilots that don't like to use the radio so strobes come in
handy.
Hope this helps,
Will
Great video Will.
What kind of the lights and strobe?
And how did you do the landing light pulse?
I think I need to spend some money for that sort of setup...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
WillUribe(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Greetings,
>
> This video was taken yesterday a little after sunset. It has been very
> windy here in the southwest so anytime we get calm air we go out and fly.
>
http://home.elp.rr.com/youngeagle/sunsetflight.wmv
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose Fairing, & other parts for the Firestar |
| From: | Herb Gayheart <herbgh(at)juno.com> |
Kolb Guys were likely in Florida last week... Try their phone... They
always answer... They walk around with these little wires sticking out of
their heads.. :-) Herb
>
> I am trying to fix the damaged nose fairing on my Firestar. Its
> pretty buggered up and was wondering how much a new one would cost
> me.
> I have checked the New Kolb Aircrafts Website, and even E-mailed for
> a pricelist, to no avail.
> Anybody know how or where to look for stuff?
> There are some other specific Firestar parts I will be replacing
> during the re-build.
> Thanks Chris
>
> --------
> Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28701#28701
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | FireStar II sunset flight |
Hi Pat,
We live in the land of the free and the wild west. Did you hear the gun
shoots right after I landed? I guess some people were blowing off steam after
paying their taxes.
Seriously, my FireStar is not an ultralight so I can fly at night but I
don't because I can't see much with the tinted windscreen.
Regards,
Will
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pat ladd
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 6:03 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: FireStar II sunset flight
This video was taken yesterday a little after sunset.>>
Hi Will,
nice pics and your lights are great.
In the UK it is illegal to fly ultralights after sunset. Not so in the
States?
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FireStar II sunset flight |
I don't know why Matronics treats links from AOL e-mails differently. It
used to be we could post regular URLs and clickable links for AOL but not
anymore.
One more try.
http://home.elp.rr.com/youngeagle/sunsetflight.wmv
Regards,
Guillermo Uribe
FireStar II N4GU
El Paso, TX
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane
http://members.aol.com/ELPEAA125
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of planecrazzzy
Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 7:07 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: FireStar II sunset flight
Nothing seems to be wrong with my computer....But "I" can't get "any" of
those address's to work.....?
anybody else having the same problem ?
Gotta Fly...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Fairing, & other parts for the Firestar |
| I have checked the New Kolb Aircrafts Website, and even E-mailed
for a pricelist, to no avail.
| Thanks Chris
Call Travis, Kolb Parts, tomorrow morning bight and early.
The Kolb Team has been away to S&F. When that happens, things slow
down a bit.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | S&F 2006 Photos and Video Clips |
Hi Gang:
I did not take but a couple photos and clips during my week in
Lakeland.
Here's hauck's holler (forward operating base) Paradise City,
Lakeland, FL. In the background is John W and Ken K getting the Titan
and the Kolbra ready for departure to Texas:
http://www.c-gate.net/~ppetty/Hauck%20Stuff/S&F%202006/DSCF3258-1.jpg
F-22 Raptors dwarf a WWII P-51 Mustang:
http://www.c-gate.net/~ppetty/Hauck%20Stuff/S&F%202006/DSCF3262-1.jpg
http://www.c-gate.net/~ppetty/Hauck%20Stuff/S&F%202006/DSCF3263-1.jpg
http://www.c-gate.net/~ppetty/Hauck%20Stuff/S&F%202006/DSCF3265-1.jpg
http://www.c-gate.net/~ppetty/Hauck%20Stuff/S&F%202006/DSCF3266-1.jpg
http://www.c-gate.net/~ppetty/Hauck%20Stuff/S&F%202006/DSCF3267-1.jpg
Time to blow out the candle lantern and zip up the sleeping bag:
http://www.c-gate.net/~ppetty/Hauck%20Stuff/S&F%202006/DSCF3268-1.jpg
Here are two clips of John W and Ken K departing Paradise City. Click
on the AVI files to view the clips:
http://www.c-gate.net/~ppetty/Hauck%20Stuff/S&F%202006/
Take care,
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | FireStar II sunset flight |
Hi John,
The airport is a movie star, it came out in the 1983 movie Lone Wolf McQuade
with Chuck Norris, David Carradine, Barbara Carrera and Robert Beltran
Enjoyed the video. Place looks familiar.
Your pulsating landing lights are very effective. They are difficult
to ignore, and more noticeable than the strobes when flying head on.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
In any case i am now thinking of installing wing strut fairings to try tio
fix
the "problem" .
I have seen some modular plastic fairing that can easily be installed on a
Rans
S-12 (i think) ... These are made of 2 plastic parts that "snap" together to
form a "water drop" shaped fairing ...
Any one could submit a source for these ?
Kolb has some 1 piece struts that you slide over and rivet to the strut to
keep it from twisting.
Your other option could be a jury strut.. A small brace from your main
spar to the mid point of the strut.
Boyd.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: shaking strut |
| Your other option could be a jury strut.. A small brace from your
main
| spar to the mid point of the strut.
|
| Boyd.
Homer Kolb, when I was building my MKIII at the Kolb Barn (Factory) in
1991, asked me to put jury struts on my wing lift struts. The reason
he asked was the jury strut was included in the Plans for the MKIII.
He felt if I put them on, others might follow suit.
Well..................as far as I know, my MKIII is the only one in
existence that is equipped with streamlined (or otherwise) jury
struts.
In previous posts to the Kolb List I have related how the jury strut
saved my streamlined lift strut when the gear leg/axle socket failed
in Canada. When the wheel departed the aircraft the weight of the
aircraft dropped down on the left wheel, the lift strut taking the
entire load. Jury strut prevented lift strut failure.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave & Eve Pelletier" <pelletier(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Instrument Markings |
A few of you had e-mailed me off list and asked to let you know what my instrument
markings would be when everything is said and done so here they are: (Mk
III Classic - 582)
Vne 100 Red
Vno 85 Yellow
Vsi 42 Green
Vso 38 White
Vfe 70 White
Someone (Brian Melbourne?) told me that you don't really need the yellow arc since
the MK III is ok right up to Vne. Someone else (?) told me that the DAR's
are used to seeing a yellow arc so I might consider putting it in to avoid a
problem.
AzDave
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mounment Valley Photos |
| From: | "John Jung" <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
Group,
It is time to start thinking about Monument Valley this May. To increase the intrest,
I posted some photos an Flickr. Check them out.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jrjung/sets/72057594107890481/
--------
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
Surprise, AZ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28753#28753
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FireStar II sunset flight |
| I can play the first 10 seconds; then it freezes
Never gets that cold in El Paso.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Flew Rotorway's 162F for 6 years before buying my Kolb.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28827#28827
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Dave,
Congrats for your ELSA. Who did the inspection. My guy was John Shablow from California.
It was $350 plus $100 for his flight over to Tucson. I do hear that
in some places back east that some DAR's are getting up to $750 for an inspection.
I will be flying up to MV May 18th. with 2-3 other planes. ( My Mark III, 2 x Zenith
701's and a Rans 12). We are going from Tucson to Payson, to Winslow then
to MV. You could join us in Payson or Winslow if you want.
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28831#28831
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mounment Valley Photos |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi John,
Nice photos. Hope to see you in MV again this tear.
Roger lee
Tucson, Az
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28832#28832
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Monument Valley Web Page |
Well, I guess it's proven that I'm suffering from old-timers disease. I started to build the long overdue Monument Valley '05 page tonight, and found that I'd already built it, and over 500 people have looked at it. How'd I manage that ?? It was published, all right, but not linked to the Traveling page. This is scary, folks. Take a look at: http://www.webpictures.homestead.com/travelling.html , and click on the Monument Valley '05 page. There are also some new pages published recently under "Palm Springs Day Trips." I hope you enjoy, and let me know what you think. If you haven't seen these pages before, there are many nice pics on Monument Valley '03. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mounment Valley Fly-in |
In a message dated 4/16/2006 6:44:46 P.M. Central Standard Time,
jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com writes:
Really getting excited about the Fourth Annual Unplanned/Unorganized
Kolb Flyin at MV, UT. If this year is anywhere near as much fun as
the last three have been, then it will also be an overwelming success.
john h
John and Others,
I have been looking in the Archieves on Info about Monument Valley. Not a
lot in the archives and I guess I should have paid more attention to the
talk in the past. I have bought tickets to fly to Las Vegas.I Plan to get a
rental car and drive over ariving on May,19th. We may have to camp . This will
be
our first time to make the fly-in . Do most of the Kolbers camp at the
Goulding campground. If so is it to late to get a campsite or room the 19th,20th
or 21st? Any current info would be helpful !
Ed Diebel
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose Fairing, & other parts for the Firestar |
| From: | "DrHook" <csgale(at)yahoo.com> |
Ya, But I got the Golden Egg!!! This little girl was about to grab it, so I pushed
her down, and grabbed it myself [Laughing]
OK, OK your right Mike, But you only seen the good side of it.
On the inside,
I was able to take a couple of strips of 4oz. fibrglass cloth and 30 min epoxy
on 2 of the real bad rips in it and it seems like it is going to work.
I cleaned the suface with acetone, then sanded and the epoxy has really bonded.
There are going to be some pretty bad gaps, on the outside though.
What would you suggest? Can I use some kind of bondo?
I am going to re-inforce the area's where it attach'es to the fuse cage using the
fiberglass-epoxy strip and I guess I better do the same around the Top where
I will need to attach the new short windsheild.
But still, Is there a parts list for the Firestar from Kolb?
Thanks for the nudge, Mike and Bob.
I couldn't find spell check here, So please, grade me on the curve :D
--------
Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28877#28877
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Fairing, & other parts for the Firestar |
Dr. , When doing fiberglass work, the rule is that you can put epoxy over
polyester, but not polyester over epoxy. Bondo is polyester. You can use it,
but eventually it is going to bubble up and then start to flake off taking
your paint job with it. Better to mix up what is known as heavy micro. Order
Micro ballons from Spruce, Wick's or a local supplier. Mix up a small batch
of epoxy (1/4 cup max) add micro balloons until it has the consistancy of
stiff cream (always wear a face mask when using micro balloons, they're tiny
glass bubbles) and apply with a squeegee. Put on a nicely skimmed, thin
layer. The next day, sand, and repeat until you have the surface you're
ready to prime. If you have lots of pin holes (you WILL) use pure epoxy
applied with a single edge razor blade as a squeegee to fill them. This may
take several applications, too.
If you ever wondered about it, it generally takes longer to fill and smooth
a Long EZ or Varieze than it does to build the entire stucture of the
aircraft, it just depends on what you want the finished product to look
like.
On 4/17/06, DrHook wrote:
>
>
> Ya, But I got the Golden Egg!!! This little girl was about to grab it, so
> I pushed her down, and grabbed it myself [Laughing]
> OK, OK your right Mike, But you only seen the good side of it.
> On the inside,
> I was able to take a couple of strips of 4oz. fibrglass cloth and 30 min
> epoxy on 2 of the real bad rips in it and it seems like it is going to work.
> I cleaned the suface with acetone, then sanded and the epoxy has really
> bonded.
> There are going to be some pretty bad gaps, on the outside though.
> What would you suggest? Can I use some kind of bondo?
> I am going to re-inforce the area's where it attach'es to the fuse cage
> using the fiberglass-epoxy strip and I guess I better do the same around the
> Top where I will need to attach the new short windsheild.
> But still, Is there a parts list for the Firestar from Kolb?
>
> Thanks for the nudge, Mike and Bob.
> I couldn't find spell check here, So please, grade me on the curve :D
>
> --------
> Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D28877#28877
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Fairing, & other parts for the Firestar |
Don't use Bondo. Poly-Fiber makes a product called "Super Fil" that is a
lightweight epoxy/microballoon mix that sands out to a feather edge and is
quite strong - but not to be used where structural strength is needed. You
could also order microballoons from System 3 or Gougeon (sp ??) and mix your
own. For structural repairs, I'd use silica or chopped glass as a filler,
or even, since it'll probably be painted, wood flour. I haven't worked much
with the 30 minute epoxies, mainly because of my understanding of their
being less than ideal over long term or some conditions of
humidity/moisture. System 3 has some excellent literature available. Jim
and Dondi will probably have Super Fil; for other products, I've been using
Jamestown Distributors in RI with pleasure and success for some time.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "DrHook" <csgale(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 3:22 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Nose Fairing, & other parts for the Firestar
>
> Ya, But I got the Golden Egg!!! This little girl was about to grab it, so
> I pushed her down, and grabbed it myself [Laughing]
> OK, OK your right Mike, But you only seen the good side of it.
> On the inside,
> I was able to take a couple of strips of 4oz. fibrglass cloth and 30 min
> epoxy on 2 of the real bad rips in it and it seems like it is going to
> work.
> I cleaned the suface with acetone, then sanded and the epoxy has really
> bonded.
> There are going to be some pretty bad gaps, on the outside though.
> What would you suggest? Can I use some kind of bondo?
> I am going to re-inforce the area's where it attach'es to the fuse cage
> using the fiberglass-epoxy strip and I guess I better do the same around
> the Top where I will need to attach the new short windsheild.
> But still, Is there a parts list for the Firestar from Kolb?
>
> Thanks for the nudge, Mike and Bob.
> I couldn't find spell check here, So please, grade me on the curve :D
>
> --------
> Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=28877#28877
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounment Valley Fly-in |
| I have been looking in the Archieves on Info about Monument
Valley. |
| Ed Diebel
Hi Ed:
Glad you are coming out to the flyin.
Here is a link to Gouldings which will give you plenty info. They
have a very nice lodge overlooking the valley. Resturant is right
next door.
http://www.gouldings.com/english/index.htm
If you decide to camp, there is a nice camp ground with bath house,
store, and indoor pool. Also laundrymat.
Tours are available for the valley and local area.
There is a nice service station and convenience store, plus a trading
post/grocery store on site.
Let us know if you need any more info.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Airworthiness Certificate |
I was told DARs now have to buy liability insurance that is why the
inspection fees have gone way up. Most of the DARs are retired FAA inspectors
so
they rather give the business to there retired buddies.
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave & Eve Pelletier" <pelletier(at)cableone.net> |
Guys,
I just made my reservations from the 17th thru the 21st and I'm in space 11.
There's a bunch of Airstream people there around the same time so it's probably
best to make reservations asap. I couldn't get space 48 which is what I
wanted but space 11 is near the tent camping area - just over the hill like we
were a couple of years ago. Spaces 10 on down are still available. I think
spaces 12 on up will be available if anyone is coming in late, like on the 19th
or later because the airstream people are leaving around that time. Phone number
is 435 727-3235. I asked if the tent guys need to make reservations and
his answer was kinda wishy washy. I don't think the tenters HAVE to have a reservation
but he said he'd like them to call first - whatever that means. Oh,
and when you make your reservations, tell him you're with the Kolb bunch.
AzDave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave & Eve Pelletier" <pelletier(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
>
> You guys keep saying ELSA. What am I missing? Couldn't you get your plane
> registered as a Amateur Built Experimental? Is there really a different
> registration process for ELSA? Is there a downs side to registering it as
> a
> Experimental.
If you didn't build the plane, then you can't register it as Experimental -
Amateur Built since you didn't build 51% of it.
Also, the difference is that you can do all of the inspections on your plane
after you attend the 16-hour Maintenance course if it is registered ELSA
and, (here is the important part) the next owner can also attend the 16-hour
course and do all of the maintenance and inspections. Sure, if it is
registered Experimental Amateur Buit, you can do the maintenance and
inspections since you built it. But the next owner has to have an A & E guy
do the annuals and maintenance and that can get expensive. Therefore, your
plane becomes more valuable if/when you want to sell it if it is registered
ELSA.
> It seems there would be allot more DARs for experimental and maybe even
some
> FAA guys in your area.
Yes there are. But for some reason, known only to somebody sitting behind a
grey desk somewhere, they can inspect Amateur Built but not ELSA. I guess
it's because if it is registered ELSA it flies different.
> I suppose that there are all levels of quality of DARs but you would
> expect
> if you paid for a inspection you would get a good one. Again there are all
> levels of FAA guys but I got just what I paid for when the FAA guy
> inspected
> my Experimental. The guy made sure the numbers matched on everything that
> need to match and signed off. I couldn't get him to even look at my work.
Yes, I still think I paid an outrageous fee but he did do a thorough
inspection. He spent about 45 minutes on just the plane.
AzDave
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jratcli256(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Manual In-cockpit Mixture Control for 2-stroke Engines |
Am moving along with my Mark 3X and need to start thinking of what Engine to purchase.
Was looking at the Rotax 582, but having to change jetting, limits the range of
altitudes I will be able to fly at.
In a web search looking for information on alt. compensating carbs, I came across
the Green Sky Adventures site about the HACman Mixture Control.
Looks interesting - has anyone any experience with this setup or heard about it?
If interested check it out at http://www.greenskyadventures.com/HACmanFAQ.htm
John Ratcliffe
jratcli256(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
According to the regs for amateur experimental you do not have to be
the sole builder. If one or two guys previous to you built their
contribution
and documented it, that is all that is required. I rebuilt one wing and
repaired a cage and I am the manufacturer of record.
-BB
-also having a dusty old A&P ticket helps
On 17, Apr 2006, at 12:10 PM, Dave & Eve Pelletier wrote:
>
>
>
>
>>
>> You guys keep saying ELSA. What am I missing? Couldn't you get your
>> plane
>> registered as a Amateur Built Experimental? Is there really a
>> different
>> registration process for ELSA? Is there a downs side to registering
>> it as
>> a
>> Experimental.
>
> If you didn't build the plane, then you can't register it as
> Experimental -
> Amateur Built since you didn't build 51% of it.
>
> Also, the difference is that you can do all of the inspections on your
> plane
> after you attend the 16-hour Maintenance course if it is registered
> ELSA
> and, (here is the important part) the next owner can also attend the
> 16-hour
> course and do all of the maintenance and inspections. Sure, if it is
> registered Experimental Amateur Buit, you can do the maintenance and
> inspections since you built it. But the next owner has to have an A &
> E guy
> do the annuals and maintenance and that can get expensive. Therefore,
> your
> plane becomes more valuable if/when you want to sell it if it is
> registered
> ELSA.
>
>> It seems there would be allot more DARs for experimental and maybe
>> even
> some
>> FAA guys in your area.
>
> Yes there are. But for some reason, known only to somebody sitting
> behind a
> grey desk somewhere, they can inspect Amateur Built but not ELSA. I
> guess
> it's because if it is registered ELSA it flies different.
>
>> I suppose that there are all levels of quality of DARs but you would
>> expect
>> if you paid for a inspection you would get a good one. Again there
>> are all
>> levels of FAA guys but I got just what I paid for when the FAA guy
>> inspected
>> my Experimental. The guy made sure the numbers matched on everything
>> that
>> need to match and signed off. I couldn't get him to even look at my
>> work.
>
> Yes, I still think I paid an outrageous fee but he did do a thorough
> inspection. He spent about 45 minutes on just the plane.
>
> AzDave
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley |
Thanks, Dave. I just called to double check my reservations, and I am paid,
and in space 12. She flat refused to move any of the Airstream group, and
said to call back in the morning if I'm not happy. Apparently I'm fairly
close........?? You guys who haven't reserved had better hop to it.
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Eve Pelletier" <pelletier(at)cableone.net>
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 8:47 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Monument Valley
>
>
> Guys,
>
> I just made my reservations from the 17th thru the 21st and I'm in
> space 11. There's a bunch of Airstream people there around the same time
> so it's probably best to make reservations asap. I couldn't get space 48
> which is what I wanted but space 11 is near the tent camping area - just
> over the hill like we were a couple of years ago. Spaces 10 on down are
> still available. I think spaces 12 on up will be available if anyone is
> coming in late, like on the 19th or later because the airstream people are
> leaving around that time. Phone number is 435 727-3235. I asked if the
> tent guys need to make reservations and his answer was kinda wishy washy.
> I don't think the tenters HAVE to have a reservation but he said he'd like
> them to call first - whatever that means. Oh, and when you make your
> reservations, tell him you're with the Kolb bunch.
>
> AzDave
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Manual In-cockpit Mixture Control for 2-stroke Engines |
I have used a pair of HAC compensating carbs on a 503 for about 12 years.
Technically you should adjust them once a year with a little divining rod that
comes with them and a known air pressure preferably in millibars. I have
become lazy recently and have not done the adjustment for 3 years or so. They
function well, I have been able to fly to 12K + and not have seasonal problems.
Considering how easy it is to swap a main jet (and if you are going for
altitude you will be wide open) its a working but not an economical solution.
Dick C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
At 11:15 AM 4/17/2006, you wrote:
>
>
>
>It seems there would be allot more DARs for experimental and maybe even some
>FAA guys in your area.
Come on guys ....I'm am making $4,000 a week as a DAR - don't make waves.
Don't have to get up till 10:00 AM - because they never have the paper work
ready anyway. Everybody's got to pay the rent!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Manual In-cockpit Mixture Control for 2-stroke Engines |
In a message dated 4/17/2006 3:19:54 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jratcli256(at)AOL.COM writes:
In a web search looking for information on alt. compensating carbs, I came
across the Green Sky Adventures site about the HACman Mixture Control.
Looks interesting - has anyone any experience with this setup or heard about
it?
A system was donated to Kolb as a door prize at last years homecoming. The
winner swapped it to Bryan Melborn. Bryan offered it for sale with proceeds
to go to Norm Labhardt's Children's Fund. Try him at 606 682 0645.
steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airworthiness Certificate |
Thanks Dave
I forgot the 16 hour class was a feature of ELSA registration.
Seems like there might be some way to change a amateur built experimental to
a ELSA if necessary. In fact I would expect that the FAA considers the
experimental a higher level of registration. It's something like the private
pilot license that can fly a ELSA without a medical. I would think that when
it all sorts out, its likely that a airplane registered as a Experimental
that meets the standards of a ELSA will have that ability to be maintained
by a nonbuilder owner with the 16 hour class also.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave & Eve Pelletier" <pelletier(at)cableone.net>
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2006 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Airworthiness Certificate
>
>
> If you didn't build the plane, then you can't register it as
> Experimental -
> Amateur Built since you didn't build 51% of it.
>
> Also, the difference is that you can do all of the inspections on your
> plane
> after you attend the 16-hour Maintenance course if it is registered ELSA
> and, (here is the important part) the next owner can also attend the
> 16-hour
> course and do all of the maintenance and inspections. Sure, if it is
> registered Experimental Amateur Buit, you can do the maintenance and
> inspections since you built it. But the next owner has to have an A & E
> guy
> do the annuals and maintenance and that can get expensive. Therefore,
> your
> plane becomes more valuable if/when you want to sell it if it is
> registered
> ELSA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mounment Valley Photos |
In a message dated 4/16/2006 1:09:39 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com writes:
It is time to start thinking about Monument Valley this May. To increase the
intrest, I posted some photos an Flickr. Check them out.
Hi John,
That really is some fine photography. Thanks for the posting.
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose Fairing, & other parts for the Firestar |
In a message dated 4/17/2006 9:00:43 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jindoguy(at)gmail.com writes:
Micro ballons from Spruce, Wick's or a local supplier. Mix up a small batch
of epoxy (1/4 cup max) add micro balloons until it has the consistency of
stiff cream (always wear a face mask when using micro balloons, they're tiny
glass bubbles) and apply with a squeegee. Put on a nicely skimmed, thin
layer. The next day, sand, and repeat until you have the surface you're
ready to prime. If you have lots of pin holes (you WILL) use pure epoxy
applied with a single edge razor blade as a squeegee to fill them. This may
take several applications, too.
If you ever wondered about it, it generally takes longer to fill and smooth
a Long EZ or Varieze than it does to build the entire structure of the
aircraft, it just depends on what you want the finished product to look
like.
After building a Long Ez to Show Quality I think I can comment on this.
Epoxy and polyester can be compatible in any case as long as the preparation is
ok. If you have a crushed part like a nose, there are several ways to repair
it depending on the specifics. I repaired a wheelpant once and it looked
better than the other one. feel free to call me during daytime office hours at
407 947 0708 and I will try to help. Depending on your specifics it can be a
lengthy topic.
Steve B
Firefly #007
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "oneaviator" <oneaviator(at)msn.com> |
Green Sky Adventures is looking for a firestar II to put an HKS engine on. Its
not free but they will absorb development and testing;
Check out the web http://www.greenskyadventures.com/EnginePricing/HKS/SnF_2006/kolb.htm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29050#29050
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Hey!
That's my airplane. I'd recognize the Wal*Mart plastic table cloth
windshield cover anywhere. ;-)
http://www.greenskyadventures.com/EnginePricing/HKS/SnF_2006/kolb.htm
Gerry Olenik must have taken these photos the morning after the big
thunderstorm. He and his family, occupying the two tents on the other
side of my mkIII and tent, got drenched. I woke up at 0230 to moans
and groans drifting through the rage of the storm. The wind was
blowing and the rain was coming down in buckets full. If you look
hanging on the prop of Gerry's Kitfox you will see a pair of soggy
blue jeans hanging there.
Glad to see he is initiating plans for developing the HKS for the
Kolb. Now is a good chance for someone to get in on the ground floor.
Take care,
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounment Valley Photos |
At 10:08 PM 4/17/2006, you wrote:
>
>
>In a message dated 4/16/2006 1:09:39 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com writes:
>
>It is time to start thinking about Monument Valley this May.
This is no ordinary adventure, but the celebrated
=93Running of the Kolbs=94 more than 2,100 miles
through America's Heartland - the granddaddy of
long flights - from Georgia, at least, it wanders
across how many states? I don't even know!
Through hills and mountains whose very
names Blue Ridge, Smokies, Rockies, -seems an
invitation to amble. Who could not feel an urge,
as the naturalist John Muir once put it, to
"throw a loaf of bread and a pound of tea in an
old sack and jump over the back fence", I could
set off from home, fly over 2,000 miles from
Georgia and fly over the rough and wild wilderness few have ever seen.
A little voice in my head says: "Sounds neat!
Let's do it!" I've formed a number of
rationalizations. It would get me fit after years
flying around the pattern and wandering back and
forth to Florida. It would be an interesting and
reflective way to acquaint myself with the scale
and beauty of my native land. It would be useful
(I not quite sure in what way, but I am sure
nonetheless) to learn to fend for myself in the
wilderness and live off the land (eat those
orange crackers at the FBO every meal).
When the guys in leather jackets and pop-up tents
sit around the campfire talking about fearsome
things done in the air, I would no longer have to
feel like such a cupcake. I want a little of that
swagger that comes with being able to gaze at a
far horizon through eyes of chipped granite and
say with a slow, manly sniff, "Yeah, I've shit in the woods too."
Then I came gradually to realize that this is way
beyond=AD way beyond =AD anything I had attempted
before. For instance, the woods of Alabama are
full of peril =AD rattlesnakes and water moccasins
and nests of copperheads; bobcats, bears,
coyotes, wolves, and wild boar; hillbillies
destabilize by gross quantities of impure corn
liquor and generations of profoundly unbiblical
sex; rabies-crazed skunks, raccoons, and
squirrels; merciless fire ants and ravening
blackfly; poison ivy, poison sumac, poison oak,
and poison salamanders; even a scattering of
moose lethally deranged by a parasitic worm that
burrows a nest in their brains and befuddles them
into chasing hapless campers through remote,
sunny meadows to their death =85 and that=92s just
Alabama! I've heard four separate stories
(always related with a chuckle) of campers and
bears sharing tents for a few confused and lively
moments; stories of fliers abruptly vaporized
("tweren't nothing left of him but a scorch
mark") by tree trunk-sized bolts of lightning
when caught in sudden storms and sent spinning on
to distant valley floors. If you're lucky you can
hope to spend the rest of your life propped in a
chair with a bib around your neck. "What is
certain is that it is a long, long way, and it is
not easy. Then you carry: a three-season tent,
self-inflating sleeping pad, assorted pots and
pans, collapsible eating utensils, plastic dishes
and cups, stuff sacks, patching kit, sleeping
bag, bungee cords, water bottles tie downs,
waterproof matches, a big knife for killing bears
and hillbillies, insulated long johns and
undershirts, four bandannas, and lots of other stuff.
"This wouldn't be so bad, I told myself. But
secretly I know that I am quite wrong. Maybe when
I'm older and don't have so much to lose? Maybe
next year - when I have a new engine.
Yeah....next year would be good, right Larry?
(Plagiarized =96 but bet you can't guess from whom).
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose Fairing, & other parts for the Firestar |
| From: | "DrHook" <csgale(at)yahoo.com> |
Hey, I just noticed there are two Threads here with the same subject that I posted.
So thanks guys and sorry for not replying, Herb, John, Rick, Larry, Bob &
Steve.
So I will post back in both, I guess. Here is what I ended up doing and replying
back to Mike.
Its all good, Mike
I got the day off yesterday, and went to town, to OSH and found this glass bondo
stuff that has shredded peices of fiberglass in it, with a tube of hardener.
It works great, and it was only $8.95 for a can of it.
Per instructions I cut some peices of 4oz fiberglass cloth on the real bad whole
and rips that I didnt use the epoxy, on the inside of the nose fairing, and
filled the wholes & cracks on the outside.
It bonds really well, and drying time is quick. I just got some small Voids to
fill in, and its all about primer & paint.
The epoxy I used was 30 min epoxy, and I know that stuff is not going anywhere.
I think I spent more time just pondering on weather or not to fix it or re-place
it, than it took me to get it done.
Bob E-mailed me with some suggestions on primer & paint thats I will try.
--------
Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29081#29081
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thom Riddle <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Manual In-cockpit Mixture Control for 2-stroke Engines |
I once owned a Zenith CH 701 with a 582 and the HAC kit on the carbs.
Worked great. I reset the baseline in the early summer and then again
in the fall after the first frost and that was all there was to it.
EGTs stayed good at all altitudes and plugs stayed gray-brown.
Thom in Buffalo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Fairing, & other parts for the Firestar |
Well darn, Doc. If I'd known you hadn't done the patch yet, I'd have given
you some tips to save a lot of finish work.
Safety first. Always wear saftey glasses when working with epoxy of any
kind. The hardner is a corrosive agent and a splash in the eye will cause
significant damage if not blind you. The doctors in the ER may minimize the
damage but they cannot reverse it. Always wear protection on your hands, I
use Nitrile gloves after I've smeared on a good layer of liquid gloves.
Epoxy causes a rash like reaction on the skin. Some people are more
sensitive than others, but the reaction can be severe enough to lead to
shock and death. If you are not sensitvie, you can create the sensitivity by
repeated exposure. Work in a well ventilated area, the fumes, even from low
odor epoxy can bring on a reaction, too. It sounds scary, but like most
things, it's just a matter of common sense and good work habits.
The Good Doctor got the surface prep correct. You can't make a chemical bond
between the old substrate and the new 'glass, you'll have to settle for a
good mechanical bond, so rough up the area at least 2" on either side of the
area to be patched. 220 grit sandpaper is the stuff to use but make sure it
has no stearates in it as that will effect bond strength.
You need a couple of other things besides fiberglass and resin to make the
repair EZ to finish. Saran wrap, or other plastic sheeting, Peel Ply ( 100%
polyester cloth ), and a few 1" chip brushes for stippling the resin up
through the cloth. you can buy peel ply at the fabric shop, it's known as
dress sheathing. If you buy it there, make sure it has no sizing agent
applied to it. Sizing agents contain silicone and will ruin the bond
strength of the patch and make further repairs or painting very difficult,
if not impossible. Spruce and Wick's have peel ply in 1" to 6" rolls, as
well as cloth. Buy whatever will overlap the edges of the patch 2" all
around.
An aside here, buy new 'glass to make the repair, don't use any cloth that
is dirty or has been wet. First, because you need to know if the cloth is
UNI (unidirectional cloth, having almost all it's strength in one direction)
or BID (bidirectional cloth that has a roughly equal fiber count in either
direction) You want to use BID. Second, because fiberglass cloth has a
wetting agent applied to it at the factory that does two things. It acts as
a lubricant so that the fibers slide past each other when the glass moves
and stretches and it acts to help break the surface tension so the resin can
wet out the 'glass rather than just encapsulate it. This wetting agent can
also be resin specific. If it comes from the auto parts store the 'glass
could have a wetting agent that works with polyester resin, but not with
epoxy. The kid at the counter will probably have no clue, should you ask. If
in doubt go to a boat shop or better yet, just order the BID cloth approved
by Burt Rutan for his aircraft from Spruce or Wick's. You'll know if the
resin is wetting out the cloth if the cloth changes color to that of the
resin. If the cloth remains white ( a drop of sweat makes a nice white
circle so wear a bandana ), it means the cloth is not wetted out, throw it
away and go get good cloth. Okay, on with the repair.
Cut your patch strips of fiberglass cloth on the bias (threads at 45 degrees
to cut), this lets the glass move and form around curves without puckering
at the edges. Lay out a sheet of Saran wrap, lay your glass on it and work
the resin into the fibers. Once the fiberglass is completely wetted out,
place another piece of plastic over it and squeegee the plastic, fiberglass,
plastic sandwich to work all the excess resin to the edges of the glass and
away from the cloth. All that's required is to wet out the glass, any more
resin than that is excess weight and does nothing for the strength of the
bond or the glass. Peel off the top layer of plastic, apply a light coat of
pure resin to the area to be patched and use the remaining layer of plastic
to control the glass while you put it on the patch area. Peel off the
remaining plastic sheet and squeegee the cloth working from the center to
the edges. Lay the peel ply over the repair area and smooth out. If you
don't use peel ply, the edges of the 'glass will curl and are a bear to
feather out nicely. Don't wet out the peel ply all the way to the edge, you
need to be able to grab it to peel it off after the resin has cured. Once
the peel ply is wetted out you can check your layup by rubbing the peel ply
with paper towels to pull more resin out of the layup. Use caution here as
you can create a resin starved layup if you rub too much. Remember the idea
is have only enough resin to wet out the 'glass and no more. Once the layup
and peel ply are all smoothed out, clean up and have a beer. Incidently,
white vinegar will remove uncured resin from tools like scissors but you
need to oil the tool after cleaning to prevent surface corrosion. My new W20
shears have a nice light brown patina because I forgot this, once.
It's the next day and the resin has cured. Grab the peel ply at a corner and
pull across the patch, not straight up from it, work all around the edges
toward the center. You should find that the 'glass is nicely filled with
resin, requiring very little filler and the edges are nicely tapered out to
the old surface of the part. Sand and fill as described yesterday.
On 4/18/06, DrHook wrote:
>
>
> Hey, I just noticed there are two Threads here with the same subject that
> I posted. So thanks guys and sorry for not replying, Herb, John, Rick,
> Larry, Bob & Steve.
> So I will post back in both, I guess. Here is what I ended up doing and
> replying back to Mike.
>
> Its all good, Mike
> I got the day off yesterday, and went to town, to OSH and found this glass
> bondo stuff that has shredded peices of fiberglass in it, with a tube of
> hardener. It works great, and it was only $8.95 for a can of it.
> Per instructions I cut some peices of 4oz fiberglass cloth on the real bad
> whole and rips that I didnt use the epoxy, on the inside of the nose
> fairing, and filled the wholes & cracks on the outside.
> It bonds really well, and drying time is quick. I just got some small
> Voids to fill in, and its all about primer & paint.
> The epoxy I used was 30 min epoxy, and I know that stuff is not going
> anywhere.
> I think I spent more time just pondering on weather or not to fix it or
> re-place it, than it took me to get it done.
> Bob E-mailed me with some suggestions on primer & paint thats I will try.
>
> --------
> Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D29081#29081
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Morning Gang:
For newbies and a refresher for those that were on the Kolb List last
year, here is a neat web site put together by George Alexander. It is
a collection of photos by a lot of us that attended MV III 2005:
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbflyer/
Many, many thanks, George!!!
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Checkout?...I doan need no stinking...... |
Subject: Let's Hear It For Checkouts...
Kolbers and Kolbettes...
More follies on the Local airstrip... Food for thought on the subject of
self-taught aviation...which was, as I recall, a topic on this List not
too long ago...
A week ago last Sunday, a gent crumped his factory-fresh Aventura
"Ultralight" amphibian on the friendly sands of Manatee... Seems he had
never received any instruction or checkout in the machine... Had been waiting
for an appointment to get a training session or two and get signed off in it...
but that didn't work out, so he decided to just go ahead and check himself out...
Hell, it's just another airplane, right...? He had a right smart bit of time in
other
ultralights, right....? Can't be that much different, right....?
He lucked out... only has broken arm, broken leg, and broken hip....
The new airplane appears to be pretty much toast... A lot of the primary
structure is bent or warped...port gear is ripped off...
The 582 and the prop look OK...
....and the beat goes on....
Beauford
FF #076
Brandon, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb Gayheart <herbgh(at)juno.com> |
Kolbers and Kolbettes
Just got off the phone with the Factory.. They said to tell all
that Sun N Fun was great for them this year.. And thanks a bunch to all
of those who bought MKIIIX's .. Mostly with 912's.
Factory is running full bore.. Fireflys and Firestars on order
also.. :-) Herb
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 4th Annual Kolb Gathering at Monument Valley, UT |
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot2(at)comcast.net> |
Hello Everybody,
This is the only advertisment for this event!
--------
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolbra, 912ULS
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29177#29177
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/mv2006_119.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 4th Annual Kolb Gathering at Monument Valley, UT |
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot2(at)comcast.net> |
Hello Everybody,
This is the only advertisment for this event!
--------
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolbra, 912ULS
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29178#29178
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/mv2006_119.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jratcli256(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | In-cockpit mixture control |
Dick C.,
My understanding about Rotax 2-cycle engines is that you should change carb jets
for approx. each 1500' additional altitude you fly at. Fudge factor considered
this still seems to limit your choices. I would like to be less restrained
in choices to be able to avoid the ground thermals.
$180.00 doesn't seem too bad considering that a 4-stroke would run about $7500
more installed.
Steve,
Will check with Bryan for his input on this. thanks for the reference.
John Ratcliffe
jratcli256(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Gustafson" <agustafson(at)chartermi.net> |
I have a nice jig for building Firestar wing ribs. Way better than plans device.
You pay shipping and it's you'rs. Upper Michigan
Aaron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: In-cockpit mixture control |
A lot has to do with how rich you normally run. If your engine is
running around 1000 degrees EGT or less at the altitudes you normally
fly, you will not be happy when you start to climb. But I try and keep
my EGT's in cruise around 1100 - 1125 at 2000 MSL, and the 582 still
runs fine at 7,500' MSL.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
jratcli256(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Dick C.,
>
> My understanding about Rotax 2-cycle engines is that you should change carb jets
for approx. each 1500' additional altitude you fly at. Fudge factor considered
this still seems to limit your choices. I would like to be less restrained
in choices to be able to avoid the ground thermals.
>
> $180.00 doesn't seem too bad considering that a 4-stroke would run about $7500
more installed.
>
> Steve,
>
> Will check with Bryan for his input on this. thanks for the reference.
>
> John Ratcliffe
> jratcli256(at)aol.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "N111KX (Kip)" <n111kx(at)mindspring.com> |
Lisa, did you ever fly the Mk III? I never read about it anywhere:) I really enjoyed
your adventures in the Pulsar and wish you good luck in the Rotorway...
Kip
--------
Kip
Firestar II (born September 2000)
Atlanta, GA
N111KX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29291#29291
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nose Fairing, & other parts for the Firestar |
| From: | "DrHook" <csgale(at)yahoo.com> |
Great Info Rick!!! Wow, That just about Sum's it Up. Are you sure you didnt leave
anything out?
Seriously guys, thanks for your help.
Chris
Dr. Marvin, "Is this some kinda new theropy?"
Baby Steps
--------
Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29341#29341
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nose Fairing, & other parts for the Firestar |
Doc, I tried to hit the high spots. Much of what I descibed is known as "the
poor man's vacuum bagging method".
On 4/19/06, DrHook wrote:
>
>
> Great Info Rick!!! Wow, That just about Sum's it Up. Are you sure you
> didnt leave anything out?
> Seriously guys, thanks for your help.
> Chris
>
> Dr. Marvin, "Is this some kinda new theropy?"
> Baby Steps
>
> --------
> Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D29341#29341
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
________________________________________________________________________________
I went down to Tulsa last night and helped a buddy pickup up & haul
home a nice little Firestar. It had a broke leg from the Kolb Quit
after letting his bose fly it after he had just flown it for an
hour. His bose bought him a new plane and just wanted to get rid of
the edivence. My buddy picked it for a steal. I sure wish I could
pick up a deal like that.
-----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Deckard" <mustangsally(at)semo.net> |
I saw that plane listed and thought about buying it. Did he get it under the
asking price? How damaged was it?
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: <rap(at)isp.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 12:16 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Firestar
>
> I went down to Tulsa last night and helped a buddy pickup up & haul
> home a nice little Firestar. It had a broke leg from the Kolb Quit
> after letting his bose fly it after he had just flown it for an
> hour. His bose bought him a new plane and just wanted to get rid of
> the edivence. My buddy picked it for a steal. I sure wish I could
> pick up a deal like that.
>
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
>
> I saw that plane listed and thought about buying it. Did he get it under
> the
> asking price? How damaged was it?
> Jerry
Not bad,broken gear socket (in shear) Bent tail wheel spring. About 4 for
the tubes around the socket were bent. He had all the parts already
bought to fix the plane. Came with it. Should not take much time, I'm
going to be the one doing the welding have alot of experence on
cromemolley. The guy would not come down on the price.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <rap(at)isp.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 12:16 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Firestar
>
>
>>
>> I went down to Tulsa last night and helped a buddy pickup up &
>> haul
>> home a nice little Firestar. It had a broke leg from the Kolb Quit
>> after letting his bose fly it after he had just flown it for an
>> hour. His bose bought him a new plane and just wanted to get rid of
>> the edivence. My buddy picked it for a steal. I sure wish I could
>> pick up a deal like that.
>>
>>
>> -----------------------------------------
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
-----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Solution to bent aluminum gear legs |
Even though I have gained proficiency in straightening the main gear legs on
my Mark III and have the job down to less than 4 hours to remove, straighten
and reinstall them, I'd like to avoid the experience if I can. I have 6"
steel wheels on my Mk III and until a few days ago they carried 15" X 6" X
6" grooved lawn tires. Then I discovered that Spruce carries an 18" X 6" X
6" turf tire. Running tubes in them I can drop the pressure to 8 psi. It's
like having Nerf tires. Five landings so far and they're great. Now that I
don't worry so much about bending gear legs, my landings have improved and
I'm rolling it on nicely. The Nerf tires also give a nicer ride when
taxiing. As for cost, well,it's $140 no matter which you choose. New Legs
$140. Press to straighten old bent legs $140. Nerf tires $140. I did both
the latter, but I straightened the set 3 times, so I'm actually up $140.
Maybe it's the right time to go to Vegas.
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Deckard" <mustangsally(at)semo.net> |
| Subject: | Shorting the bow tips |
Has anyone shortened the bow tips on the wings of Firestar? Seems to be a lot of
drag out there. Doing some measuring, 6" could be done pretty easy. That would
be 12" less of nonlift producing drag gone.
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shorting the bow tips |
Not sure about the FireStar, but a few years ago, Ron Christensen built a
much modified Kolb that he called the Mk III 1/2. It gave me several ideas
for Vamoose. There's a couple of pics of it on one of my Vamoose webpages.
He originally tried just what you're asking, and lost performance. Then he
built several variations of wingtips, including drooped, out of fiberglass.
He did a beautiful job, but finally wound up with stock wingtips, and said
they performed best. Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Deckard" <mustangsally(at)semo.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2006 7:16 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Shorting the bow tips
>
> Has anyone shortened the bow tips on the wings of Firestar? Seems to be a
> lot of drag out there. Doing some measuring, 6" could be done pretty easy.
> That would be 12" less of nonlift producing drag gone.
> Jerry
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
For those who asked, here is the part number of the tires and tubes I
installed on my Mk III.
Aircraft Spruce 2005 catalog page 231 lower right hand corner.- Tire part
number 06-00366 Tube part number 06-00358.
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airgriff2(at)AOL.COM |
Hi Jerry and gang, consider some research before redesigning Homers'
wing. That wing tip that you mentioned as causing extra drag may also be hindering
the high pressure from under the wing from comming up onto the low pressure
on top of the wing, therefor distroying lift on the main wing area.
Fly Safe
Bob Griffin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Deckard" <mustangsally(at)semo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: wing tip drag |
I understand the reason it is there. I would think at cruise speeds the need
would minimize. I was thinking Vortex generators on both top and bottom at
the last rib may reduce this problem at lower speeds. I will probably leave
to factory specs. One concern I had with doing this would be losing aileron
area.
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: <Airgriff2(at)aol.com>
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 5:39 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: wing tip drag
>
> Hi Jerry and gang, consider some research before redesigning Homers'
> wing. That wing tip that you mentioned as causing extra drag may also be
> hindering
> the high pressure from under the wing from comming up onto the low
> pressure
> on top of the wing, therefor distroying lift on the main wing area.
>
> Fly Safe
> Bob Griffin
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thom Riddle <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
If anyone here is interested in buying tires of this size for their
Kolb, let me know. I have a set that I put on the Titan and they looked
ridiculous so I took them off. They will look and perform much better
on a Kolb. They have less than 10 take-offs and landings on them. Mine
are like the ones shown at the following link.
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_cat.php/subid=1993/
index.html
I'll let them go at 80% of list price plus shipping. Contact me off
list at jtriddle(at)adelphia.net if interested.
Thom in Buffalo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | A Couple of Personal Milestones. |
FireFlyers and Kolbers,
Yesterday the FireFly passed the 200th hour in the air.
The last ten flights have been used to dial a new needle and jet combination
in and to record gph flow rates for various engine speeds. The engine is
not running up to Simonini specs, which I believe are very optimistic. But
it is running to the specs published by the North American supplier,
Speedwing Aircraft. At 5,500 rpm the Victor 1+ will cruise at 2.25 gph and
below 5,400 rpm it will cruise at 2.0 gph or less.
The nice thing about this new jet and needle combination is that there are
no hot spots across the rpm range.
Looks like it is going to be another nice day for flying. Off to get
another data point.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shorting the bow tips |
> Do you want to go faster with very low induced drag in cruise? I hate
> to
> break it to you, but you bought the wrong airplane.
funny
>
Guess I knew that when I first saw a Kolb.
58 hp/65 mph , 90 hp/85 mph + a lot more petrol.
But then I'm a slow guy, happy with a slow plane.
Buy a Sonex if you want a fast, simple airplane.
I like feeling like I'm riding around the sky on a barcalounger
instead of in a sardine can.
-BB, MkIII, REALLY inefficient wingtips.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Bass" <gtb(at)commspeed.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shorting the bow tips |
My apologies to the group.
I failed to add the authors name to my last post.
It was Richard R. Ryburn
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Bass" <gtb(at)commspeed.net> |
I hope you all don't mind, but, I felt this was an
important message to pass on to the group. It
is taken from another forum, but, applies to all
who have enjoyed even a moment, in the air.
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Another aviation legend goes west... this from the Cessna Pilots
Association e-letter, 4/20/06... just in case you haven't heard.
Legendary X-15 Pilot and CPA Member Scott Crossfield killed in
Cessna 210 crash in Georgia. Wednesday, April 19th, 2006,
Scott Crossfield, age 84, left Prattville, Alabama about 9AM in his
1961 Cessna 210A. He was alone & headed home to Manassas,
Virginia. A little before noon radar & radio contact with Scott was
lost about 50 miles northwest of Atlanta. There were Thunder-
storms in the area at the time. There's also an unconfirmed report
that there were engine problems. The wreckage of the aircraft with
today near Ranger, Georgia.
Scott was the first of the "Engineering Test Pilots."
An aeronautical engineer by education, he took test flying from the
seat of the pants days to that of an exacting science.
His accomplishments are many, including:
- First to fly at Mach 2
- First to fly the X-15
- Set speed & altitude records (later exceeded) of Mach 2.97,
& 81,000 feet, in the X-15.
- First to fly at Mach 3
When I was a teenager I read a book, "Always Another Dawn", that
Scott had written about his experiences on the Douglas Skyrocket
& the North American X-15 programs. That book was one of the
influences that steered me to a career in aviation. And when ever
I started thinking that I was a pretty good pilot, I would remember
the film of Scott landing the X-15, with a control problem. The air-
craft is bucking like a bronco, clearly not in full control. Scott is
timing the dips, so the aircraft can contact the lake bed, at the
bottom of one of the dips, before it runs out of airspeed & stalls.
He might have been the only pilot in the world that could have pulled
of that feat, but he did. Clearly, a pilot with skills beyond that of all
but the very best.
About 20 years ago a gentleman with a broad brimmed hat comes
in to the Cessna Pilots Association tent at Oshkosh and says he
would like to talk with "John Frank" about his 210A. He introduces
himself to me & I am dumbstruck & speechless. Here was the man
I had admired all these many years & he was asking me questions!!!
We had a very nice visit that lead to a close friendship these past two
decades. I found Scott to be a very warm person, who was totally
unassuming about his accomplishments.
When the news came to me this morning that Scott had been killed in
a plane crash, I found it almost impossible to believe. My hero, my
mentor, my friend, gone. And as I close this obituary with a safety
tag line I have used frequently, there are tears streaming from my eyes.
More than ever- LETS ALL OF US BE CAREFUL UP THERE.
PLEASE ARCHIVE
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Shorting the bow tips |
I remember a Kolb Mark3 at Oskosh that had lengthened the wings
to slow it even more so they could do hang glider tows. Now that
was neato. I'd like to see leading edge slats on one also, slow it
down to about a 15 mph flight.
Do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George E. Thompson" <eagle1(at)commspeed.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shorting the bow tips |
Been there, done that, on my Firestar II. I would not recommend it. I
thought that I would gain some speed but I could not see that it did that
but slowed the take off a bit ( Not that that hurt anything). I shortened
the bow about 8 inches on each side. In my opinion, you will not gain
anything worthwhile.
Az Bald Eagle
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Deckard" <mustangsally(at)semo.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2006 7:16 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Shorting the bow tips
>
> Has anyone shortened the bow tips on the wings of Firestar? Seems to be a
> lot of drag out there. Doing some measuring, 6" could be done pretty easy.
> That would be 12" less of nonlift producing drag gone.
> Jerry
>
>
> --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Shorting the bow tips |
| From: | "Possum" <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
mustangsally(at)semo.net wrote:
> Has anyone shortened the bow tips on the wings of Firestar? Seems to be a lot
of drag out there. Doing some measuring, 6" could be done pretty easy. That would
be 12" less of nonlift producing drag gone.
> Jerry
I did - to 26'9" - I'll send some pictures. I think it works fine. I have standard
Kolb Ribs (built on a wooden jig - the old fashion way) - different wing
bow ...a few other things different but not with the wings though - execpt VGs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29933#29933
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/5_im002601_154.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/4_wingbow_side_153.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/3_drawing_2_587.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/2_wing_back_222.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/1_wing_tip_102.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Deckard" <mustangsally(at)semo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shorting the bow tips, GEO? |
Thanks,
Is that a GEO sitting on there? If so how do you like it?
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Possum" <possums(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 3:50 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Shorting the bow tips
>
>
> mustangsally(at)semo.net wrote:
>> Has anyone shortened the bow tips on the wings of Firestar? Seems to be a
>> lot of drag out there. Doing some measuring, 6" could be done pretty
>> easy. That would be 12" less of nonlift producing drag gone.
>> Jerry
>
>
> I did - to 26'9" - I'll send some pictures. I think it works fine. I have
> standard Kolb Ribs (built on a wooden jig - the old fashion way) -
> different wing bow ...a few other things different but not with the wings
> though - execpt VGs.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=29933#29933
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/5_im002601_154.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/4_wingbow_side_153.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/3_drawing_2_587.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/2_wing_back_222.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/1_wing_tip_102.jpg
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt(at)kilocharlie.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Shorting the bow tips, GEO? |
Looks like a good 'ol 503 to me...
Jeremy
Thanks,
Is that a GEO sitting on there? If so how do you like it?
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shorting the bow tips, GEO? |
At 05:52 PM 4/21/2006, you wrote:
>
>Looks like a good 'ol 503 to me...
>
>Jeremy
Yeah...... just a good "Old" 503.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Deckard" <mustangsally(at)semo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shorting the bow tips, GEO? |
Need to either get a new monitor or glasses. It's not very clear to me.
Thanks
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt(at)kilocharlie.us>
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2006 4:52 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: Shorting the bow tips, GEO?
>
> Looks like a good 'ol 503 to me...
>
> Jeremy
>
>
>
> Thanks,
> Is that a GEO sitting on there? If so how do you like it?
> Jerry
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
I agree, I was very annoyed by Chuck Yeager's comments. What a Jerk.
Steve B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: A Couple of Personal Milestones. |
In a message dated 4/21/2006 9:18:41 A.M. Central Standard Time,
jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net writes:
FireFlyers and Kolbers,
Yesterday the FireFly passed the 200th hour in the air.
Jack,
Better keep an eye on me, I now have a little over 10 hours on my
Firefly. Seriously, Congratulations, And many thanks for the help you have been
with
your documentation on all of your ideas and replies to questions in the
past. I have used some of Your ideas and they have been a great help!
Ed Diebel Do Not Archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thom Riddle <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Shorting the bow tips |
If that Hoerner Style wing tip does to a Kolb what they do for a
Cherokee, the results must be wonderful. Of course the original shape
of the Hershey bar wing tip on the Cherokee is not as good as the
original Kolb wing tip.
Thom in Buffalo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Deckard" <mustangsally(at)semo.net> |
Thanks to everyone. I have decided to leave my tips stock. I have built a Challenger
before and I picked this kit up that was partially completed. New to Kolb's
and wish to thank everyone for their input.
Jerry Deckard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gherkins Tim-rp3420" <rp3420(at)freescale.com> |
Kolbers/Jerry,
Sorry for my late opinion on wing tips, but something to think about and
maybe someone will glean some info from this. Im sure you are thinking
about aerodynamics of shortening wing tips but when I was building my
firestar II I knew the length of the standard fuselage would fit in my
garage. But with the wings folded the firestar would not fit. I had to
reduce the wingtips by 5 inches each side for a total of 10". This
brought the folded wings right to the end of the rudder, plus don't
forget to accommodate an inch or so for the counter balance tube that
sticks out of the aileron, or wingtip strobes. Now, with my firestar
tucked away in my garage, the nose barely misses the closing garage door
by less then an inch.
Just a note, when I had to cut the wing tips down, a then visiting
renowned Will Uribe(firestar owner/builder) advised me to take off as
little as possible, for I will need all the lift when loaded down and in
the middle of summer heat(density altitude).
This reminds me of a story about one of my favorites-Ben Ransom. He was
building his firestar kxp and shortened his tail boom tube to make his
firestar fit in the garage/trailer. He didn't think about the folding
wings at the time. When he first mounted his newly finished wings and
folded them, that is where he realized that shortning the boom tube was
for not. I'm glad he shared that experience with all of us at the time,
it made me think...
Feel free to visit our website, I have pictures of the shortened
wingtips there.
Tim Gherkins
Firestar II
www.milows.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Deckard
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 6:12 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Bow tips
Thanks to everyone. I have decided to leave my tips stock. I have built
a Challenger before and I picked this kit up that was partially
completed. New to Kolb's and wish to thank everyone for their input.
Jerry Deckard
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Heel Brake Modification |
| From: | "Possum" <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
planecrazzzy wrote:
> Hey Guys,
> Just thought I'd post a few pictures of the angles that I put
on
>
> my Heel Brake pedals.....They were too "low" and too far forward....
>
> and I changed their "angle" a little too.....
>
> .
Looks Good.
I found some "push/pull" cables that were accidently the right
length. They take a lot of slop out of the Brakes. Most brakes don't have
much room between being to loose and dragging/rubbing anyway.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30088#30088
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/instpanel_brakes_707.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ultralight crash in Baldwin County Alabama/Florida |
| From: | "cspoke" <cspoke(at)gulftel.com> |
It was a Chinook two seat. It had been rebuild and test flown about two weeks prior
to the accident. It is suspected that there was some type of engine failure
or power loss.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30106#30106
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ETHANOL AS A FUEL ADDITIVE |
| From: | "Jim Ballenger" <ulpilot(at)cavtel.net> |
Hello
In my part of the country, Hampton Roads in Virgina, they are switching from MTBE
to ethanol as an additive in the fuel. Do any of you have any experience using
this kind of fuel?
Thanks
Jim
MK3X
Virginia Beach, VA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30131#30131
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Where the hell is Hauck? |
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
Now where the hell did Hauck go?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30137#30137
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/kolb_bear_289.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Mallory" <wcm(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Man Show Boy - Beer Stand |
FW: This is funny
Subject: FW: Man Show Boy - Beer Stand
....you may have seen this kid in action before....
Don't know where they found him, but he's a piece of work....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Flycrazy8(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ultralight crash in Baldwin County Alabama/Florida |
It was a Chinook two seat. It had been rebuild and test flown about two weeks
prior to the accident. It is suspected that there was some type of engine
failure or power loss.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30106#30106
Thanks Guys for the info....This what I found out too...
Elberta man is killed in plane crash
Thursday, April 20, 2006
By DANIEL JACKSON
Staff Reporter
LILLIAN -- An Elberta pilot died on his 50th birthday Wednesday when the
experimental aircraft he was flying with a friend crashed in a pasture in
this eastern Baldwin County community.
Scott Hanft died immediately after the plane went down about 9 a.m., just
north of a pond at a residence on Sunset Drive in Lillian, the Baldwin
County Sheriff's Office reported.
His passenger, Charles Bingle, 61, of Elberta, was airlifted to Pensacola's
Baptist Hospital, where he was listed in critical condition after surgery
Wednesday evening, said Stephanie Young, the hospital's assistant director
of nursing.
As members of the Lite Blue Angels, a group of about 40 pilots that fly
experimental and ultralight aircraft from a private airstrip nearby, Hanft
and Bingle had plenty of flying experience, according to several who knew
them.
James Clark, an investigator with the Federal Aviation Administration, who
started searching through the plane's wreckage about 5 p.m., said he had not
yet determined the cause of the accident.
Larry Nix, who owns the property where the plane fell, said his wife, who
was home ill, heard the crash.
"She said it sounded like it was going to hit the house," Nix said. "She got
on a golf cart and drove out to them, but by the time she got out there,
some of the guys that were watching them fly at the airstrip had come over
the fence to help."
Ian Garnham, a member of the Lite Blue Angels since about 1996, said Hanft
flew three or four circles solo on a flight path around the airstrip at
Shield's Field, then landed and went up again with Bingle, who owns the
aircraft.
Garnham said experimental aircraft like the one that crashed -- a Chinook
two-seater, single-engine pusher -- do not meet FAA regulations, but they
are proven designs that have been in the air worldwide for years.
An average flight in the plane is about 30 to 40 miles at an altitude of
about 1,000 feet, according to club members.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ETHANOL AS A FUEL ADDITIVE |
Jim, there is a May deadline for MTBE to be out of the mogas so
ethanol will be
in all our supplies soon. Two negative factors are reduced power
output, and
storage problems. It is problematic for the transportation of gas in
that
the ethanol cannot, for some reason, be added before pipeline
transmission,
but has to be mixed at destination.
We should all be observant of our fuel properties this summer.
-BB
On 23, Apr 2006, at 6:58 AM, Jim Ballenger wrote:
>
> Hello
> In my part of the country, Hampton Roads in Virgina, they are
> switching from MTBE to ethanol as an additive in the fuel. Do any of
> you have any experience using this kind of fuel?
> Thanks
> Jim
> MK3X
> Virginia Beach, VA
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30131#30131
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | More on Nico sleeves |
I found these instructions for cable construction on the EAA web site from
Ron Alexander:
- Determine the length of cable necessary. This should be stated in
your assembly manual. If not, you can use a stretchless cord the same
diameter as the cable to be installed. Route this cord as the cable will be
routed then mark it for cutting.
- Cut the cable. Invest in a pair of cable cutters. They are
inexpensive and they will save you a lot of time and effort. After marking
the cable, place a piece of masking tape around the cable where the cut will
be made. This will leave a nice even cut and will keep the strands of wire
in place during assembly. Do not cut with a torch or subject the wire to
excessive heat in any way.
- Take the thimble to be used and cut off the 4 tips you will see on
the thimble. This will allow the sleeve to fit more snugly.
- Route the cable through the sleeve and then through the turnbuckle
end fitting or the fitting that is being used. Then route it around the
thimble. ( Remember, copper sleeves for galvanized cable and zinc sleeves
for stainless cable ).
- Place the taped end of the cable through the other portion of the
sleeve to complete the initial assembly. Be sure to leave a sufficient
amount of cable extending past the sleeve=97usually an inch or so.
- The compression process will be easier if you slide a cable clamp
over the loose end of the cable and push it securely against the sleeve.
- Make the necessary compressions of the sleeve as shown in Figure 6.
Cables larger than 3/32inch diameter must have 3 compressions done in the
sequence presented. The first compression is made in the center followed by
a compression next to the sleeve. Then the final compression is made. Before
making the final compression remove the cable clamp. Also, prior to
beginning the first compression, insure that a minimum of 1/8 inch of cable
will protrude out of the sleeve after the assembly is complete. The
compression is better performed with a helper. If no one is available then
clamp one arm of the nicopress tool in a vise. That will allow you to
properly perform the compression without assistance.
- When all three compressions have been completed, use the "go-no-go"
gauge that comes with the nicopress tool to check the width of the crimps.
The widest part of the compression should slide into the appropriate slot of
the gauge. If it does not, it means the sleeve has not been properly
compressed.
- Carefully cut off any excess cable and leave at 1/8" inch protruding
beyond the sleeve. Do not nick the working cable in any way.
- Mark the portion of cable that protrudes with a red paint. This will
allow you to see if any slippage has occurred during subsequent inspections.
You may want to slip a length of clear heat shrink tubing over the cable
before you begin the nicopress crimping. When complete, you then slide the
tubing over the loose end of the cable until it is against the sleeve and
shrink it down. This prevents snagging a hand on the sharp strand ends of
the cable and still allows you to view the red mark for slippage.
- A final recommended step is to test the cable by doing a pull test
up to 60% of the rated strength of the cable. Using the torque-arm formula,
a weight suspended from a beam on a fulcrum may be easily constructed to
perform this test. The rated strength of aircraft cable may be found in
Advisory Circular 43-13. Even if you purchase cables that are already
assembled or have someone swage the fittings the pull test is desirable.
This reminded me that somewhere in all the packed boxes of books was my copy
of AC 43-13. If you don't have a copy and you're building an airplane you
should get one IMHO. Check out Illustration 7-14.
For those lacking a nico press sleeve gauge, I found this one via Google.
http://www.air-techinc.com/prod_cat_item.asp?categoryID=3Dtoolmisc&typ=3Dtools&ID=3D1479
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dangerous or just scary |
I put two nicropress sleeves on all my cables for the same reasons Mr. Pike
talks about but... Engineering data suggests that these joints a much
stronger than the cables so if they are done right there is no problem. Some
times us backyard engineers do things to our planes that we think makes them
stronger but in fact crates a weakness where there was none. The single
sleeve is normal aircraft practice.
I have seen Tim's work up close and it is shows some of the best
craftsmanship I have ever seen. I for one would not think twice of flying
anything he has worked on.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 11:18 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Dangerous or just scary
>
> I would like to see the nicopress sleeves doubled up. On every wire
> pictured. Nicos are cheap for the benefit that redundancy provides.
> Maybe the factories have enough quality control that they can get by
> with just one... we are amateurs, nicos are cheap, and redundancy is a
> good thing.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | The Certified LSA Pioneers that have gone before me |
| From: | "DrHook" <csgale(at)yahoo.com> |
The Goal:
Get all certificates that would be required to get my Sports Pilot Licence Cerificate,
during the Re-build of the Firestar project at hand.
OK so, I am a new member of EAA as of yesterday. So thats a start.
And there is no dought, I am in the right place, Here to get the advice to do that.
So for you guys that have done this and or are doing this. Can you steer me in
the most practicle, "affordable", easiest way to do this.
I have been reading up on, and will continue to read-up on the things required.
So, yes I could search the archives and probably find the answers I need here.
but hoping some of you guys got the answers and advice at your fingertips.
So I suppose, what I need to help me is, the order in which to do things and what
exactly to do.
EAA has this Homebuilt Certification Kit, Here are the details for this kit.
March 30, 2006 - EAA's new Amateur-Built Aircraft Certification Kit includes everything
you need to register and certificate a new experimental amateur-built
aircraft. The 15-page, step-by-step Certification Guide walks you through the
entire process-from getting an N number to the aircraft inspection-and provides
samples of how to complete each required form.
EAA staff member and Amateur-Built DAR Joe Norris, who reviewed all of the materials
included in the kit, commented, "Whenever I inspect an aircraft for certification,
the paperwork is what causes delays more often than anything on the
aircraft. This guide will make a homebuilder's inspection go a lot easier."
The certification kit also includes all FAA forms, Experimental sticker (in black), dataplate, and a convenient placard decal sheet. Cost for EAA members is $12.99 plus shipping. The kit is also available for non-members for $19.99 plus shipping. To order, call EAA Membership Services at 800/JOIN EAA (564-6322), or visit http://shop.eaa.org.
For $12.99 I think this will help me out, big time.
So here is an aricle that caught my I as well. Its from an older Plane & Pilot
magazine.
Traditional kit planes regulations required that the owner and/or builder construct
a minimum of 51% of the aircraft, which would take hundreds of hours of labor.
The new sport experimental rules, on the other hand, only call for the builder
to participate and sign off that he or she has played a part in making
the aircraft airworthy. The builder also needs to attend formal training classes
to earn a repairmans certificate for minor maintenance, but the whole process
is much less time-consuming than it has been in the past.
EAA has these Repairmen LSA Workshops.
Will I have to take this $300.00 16hr class?
So there it is, any help, advice and guidance would be Mucho appriciated,
Thanks Chris
--------
Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30165#30165
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dangerous or just scary |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
According to 43-13 one, done correctly, is plenty strong. I'd rather have one done
correctly than two done poorly.
Thom in Buffalo
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30190#30190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Parker" <parker910(at)comcast.net> |
Greetings
May I please request a hold on my emails until we get back in the country in
September .
Thank you and happy flying
John Parker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cat36Fly(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: ETHANOL AS A FUEL ADDITIVE |
Jim,
They are changing over here in Delaware as we speak. My understanding is
that Rotax says "no ethanol." GA pilots with auto gas STC's are in the same boat.
Larry Tasker
MKlllx 582
N615RT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The Certified LSA Pioneers that have gone before me |
| From: | Herb Gayheart <herbgh(at)juno.com> |
>
> The Goal:
> Get all certificates that would be required to get my Sports Pilot
> Licence Cerificate, during the Re-build of the Firestar project at
> hand.
>
March 27, 2006 - April 23, 2006
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-fz