Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ga
April 23, 2006 - May 12, 2006
> OK so, I am a new member of EAA as of yesterday. So thats a start.
> And there is no dought, I am in the right place, Here to get the
> advice to do that.
>
> So for you guys that have done this and or are doing this. Can you
> steer me in the most practicle, "affordable", easiest way to do
> this.
> I have been reading up on, and will continue to read-up on the
> things required.
> So, yes I could search the archives and probably find the answers I
> need here.
> but hoping some of you guys got the answers and advice at your
> fingertips.
> So I suppose, what I need to help me is, the order in which to do
> things and what exactly to do.
> EAA has this Homebuilt Certification Kit, Here are the details for
> this kit.
>
> March 30, 2006 - EAA's new Amateur-Built Aircraft Certification Kit
> includes everything you need to register and certificate a new
> experimental amateur-built aircraft. The 15-page, step-by-step
> Certification Guide walks you through the entire process-from
> getting an N number to the aircraft inspection-and provides samples
> of how to complete each required form.
> EAA staff member and Amateur-Built DAR Joe Norris, who reviewed all
> of the materials included in the kit, commented, "Whenever I inspect
> an aircraft for certification, the paperwork is what causes delays
> more often than anything on the aircraft. This guide will make a
> homebuilder's inspection go a lot easier."
>
> The certification kit also includes all FAA forms, Experimental
> sticker (in black), dataplate, and a convenient placard decal sheet.
> Cost for EAA members is $12.99 plus shipping. The kit is also
> available for non-members for $19.99 plus shipping. To order, call
> EAA Membership Services at 800/JOIN EAA (564-6322), or visit
> http://shop.eaa.org.
>
>
> For $12.99 I think this will help me out, big time.
> So here is an aricle that caught my I as well. Its from an older
> Plane & Pilot magazine.
>
> Traditional kit planes regulations required that the owner and/or
> builder construct a minimum of 51% of the aircraft, which would take
> hundreds of hours of labor. The new sport experimental rules, on the
> other hand, only call for the builder to participate and sign off
> that he or she has played a part in making the aircraft airworthy.
> The builder also needs to attend formal training classes to earn a
> repairmans certificate for minor maintenance, but the whole process
> is much less time-consuming than it has been in the past.
>
> EAA has these Repairmen LSA Workshops.
> Will I have to take this $300.00 16hr class?
>
> So there it is, any help, advice and guidance would be Mucho
> appriciated,
> Thanks Chris
>
> --------
> Kolb Firestar owner, Rebuild-Recover job at hand.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30165#30165
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dangerous or just scary |
| I put two nicropress sleeves on all my cables for the same reasons
Mr. Pike
| talks about but... Engineering data suggests that these joints a
much
| stronger than the cables so if they are done right there is no
problem. Some
| times us backyard engineers do things to our planes that we think
makes them
| stronger but in fact crates a weakness where there was none. The
single
| sleeve is normal aircraft practice.
|
| Rick Neilsen
Hi Gang:
Here is a good publication a lot of us should stick our noses in. It
will answer a lot of questions "correctly". It is Advisory Circular
43.13-1B:
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/0/99C827DB9BAAC81B86256B4500596C4E?OpenDocument&Highlight=acceptable%20methods
Here is a shortened version of the above url:
http://urlsnip.com/512534
The entire circular is available at this site.
I normally use two nicropress sleeves for 3/32 and smaller cable.
1/8" I use one, I think. I used 1/8" cable for my up elevator cable,
but it has been so long ago I forgot if I used two or one. Based on
how well I assemble my cables and hardware, I choose to use two
sleeves. Gives me that extra little bit of assureance that it will be
there for the duration.
I agree with what Rick Neilsen and Richard Pike had to say about
cables and hardware.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: new e-mail |
Had a exciting morning here at Harris Field when a 802 Airtractor
landed at our tiny 1700' strip. For those that know our place he
landed from the SOUTH! right over the tall trees then took off to the
south. |
| Paul Petty
I won't land any direction but south and take off to the north at
Harris Field. Probably very doable for some, but the location,
terrain, orientation, are such that it is very, very intimidating,
even when landing the easy direction. ;-)
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Certified LSA Pioneers that have gone before me |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Herb Gayheart" <herbgh(at)juno.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2006 5:02 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: The Certified LSA Pioneers that have gone
before me
Herb:
Could you cut some of the referenced msg. There was so much junk in
there I never did find your reply.
Folks, it only takes a second to cut out most of the referenced msg.
Leave enough so we know what you are replying to. Will do wonders to
clean up "our" List.
Thanks from an old tired fart,
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Another Milestone??? |
FireFlyers & Kolbers,
On the 590th landing, I bent landing gear leg. I took off from I22 and had climbed
to about 750 feet agl when the engine dropped to an idle. A split connector
for the throttle cable had come un screwed. I was too low to return to the
airport so elected for a cross wind landing in a corn field that was close to
a house and a main road.
Landed with the corn rows. Did not seem like I hit that hard but the up wind landing
gear leg was bent back and up about 4 to 6 inches. No damage to the tail
feathers. Walked to the house and no one was home, nor was there anyone next
door. But a couple of fellows in a pickup drove up. They had been working
in a woods not far away and saw me land. They gave me a lift back to the airport.
My wife and son-in-law helped to remove the wings and we strapped them to the back
to small pickups and took them to the hangar. Then I put the folded tail
up in my pickup and trailed it back to the airport.
I forgot to shut off my stick timer, and by the time everything was back at the
airport and in the hangar, 2 hours and 46 minutes has passed.
My wife took some photos, and when I get some time, I will put them up on the web.
I have used this splitter for years with no problem. It is made from a TV cable
connector and has very fine threads. I used to check it every flight, but it
never came loose. But it did today. I found oil in the connector. I re-lubricated
the cables and evidently the oil wicked on into the splitter and lubricated
the threaded nuts that hold the cable ends in place. IF!! it had been
safetied I would not have to straighten a landing gear leg. IF!! I had kept it
on my check list, I may have found it was loose.
End of a good day in that all I have to do is straighten a landing gear leg.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Another Milestone??? |
In a message dated 4/23/2006 5:33:53 P.M. Central Standard Time,
jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net writes:
End of a good day in that all I have to do is straighten a landing gear leg.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
Jack,
Sounds like you fared extremely well with minimal damage. This is a
good report as far as I am concerned . Glad to hear you will be back at it soon.
Ive always been concerned about the stock throttle cable ends coming loose.
Has anyone on the list heard of that happening?
Ed (Firefly #062)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Milestone??? |
Glad you are alright and only a gear leg bent.
Is there some particular reason you used a TV cable fitting rather
than a normal throttle cable fitting provided by Kolb?
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Runway Direction |
Reading a prior post referencing landing and take off direction I
noticed reference "from" one direction and "to" another direction
which can play tricks in your mind. When operating in a traffic
pattern use of proper references can reduce potential confusion so I
thought this might be a good time for some basic procedures.
On the initial position reporting and intentions, reporting "5 miles
North in bound landing 18" is short, clear and specific. Terminology
on runway direction can be confusing - normally when stated you
reference the landing or takeoff direction or the runway #. Example:
Green Ultralight Landing Runway 18 followed by the name of the
facility, say Short Stop. In the case where you don't know the exact
runway heading but do (should) know the primary direction state
landing to the South. By keeping to the same reference points it
makes things safer.
jerb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)msbit.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ETHANOL AS A FUEL ADDITIVE |
> It is problematic for the transportation of gas in
> that
> the ethanol cannot, for some reason, be added before pipeline
> transmission,
> but has to be mixed at destination.
When they send the various grades of gas down the pipeline, I'll give you one
guess what they separate the grades with.......
Since ethanol is hygroscopic, that explains that.
Jim Baker
580.788.2779
Elmore City, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Milestone??? |
>
> Glad you are alright and only a gear leg bent.
>
>Is there some particular reason you used a TV cable fitting rather
>than a normal throttle cable fitting provided by Kolb?
>
>john h
>mkIII
>
John,
A single long cable from throttle lever to the Bing makes it difficult to
remove the needle and clip for mixture adjustments. To make it easier, I
ran the cable through a housing up to just below the front wing attachment
on the throttle side. Then the cable is free suspended until it reaches the
left front engine mount. Here it enters another housing that leads to the
Bing.
The splitter was placed in the open free region. By doing this one can open
the splitter, remove the top of the Bing and the throttle cylinder and pull
the slack out of the cable in the open free region. This lets one change
the needle clip position without having to decompress the throttle return
spring. Also reassembly is much easier in that you can put everything back
into its relative position without compressing the return spring. Once the
throttle cylinder is back in the bore, you use the top cover plate to
compress the spring, start the holding screws and tighten them. Then the
splitter is reassembled. With this system I do not drop carburetor pieces
in the grass, nor do I have springs flying off.
The cable holding set screw fitting at the throttle was drilled at the front
to accept the cable end lead bead. Then one feeds a cable in through the
front up and another from the Bing down. This lets you use standard bicycle
derailer cables rather than the special long cable provided by Kolb. This
arrangement makes it much easier pull the cables out for cleaning and to
lubricate.
I have some photos somewhere of the splitter. If anyone is interested I
will post them.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ETHANOL AS A FUEL ADDITIVE |
Jim, in Minnesota ethanol has been in the gas for many years and I have used it
in my Rotax without any problems. Some stations offer ethanol-free gas for 20
cents/gallon over regular. I chose to use the ethanol-free gas.
Ralph
-- "Jim Ballenger" wrote:
Hello
In my part of the country, Hampton Roads in Virgina, they are switching from MTBE
to ethanol as an additive in the fuel. Do any of you have any experience using
this kind of fuel?
Thanks
Jim
MK3X
Virginia Beach, VA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30131#30131
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The Certified LSA Pioneers that have gone before me |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Dave,
Az. Registration $25 every year
Az. Sales tax, none
Practicle test $350, Terry Brandt in Buckeye, Az.
16 hr. course through EAA was $300 + food, travel. Took mine in Riverside, Ca.
All done.
Piece of cake. One day at a time.
Take Care,
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
see you next month in MV
p.s.
Give me a call if you need info about any of the certs.
520-574-1080
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30282#30282
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Dangerous or just scary |
Well said. However...
Back in 1979 I built my first flying machine, a Quicksilver B, from
plans. Fortunately, I had an assistant, one of the test pilots from the
North American Rockwell factory located on Albany airport, (currently
Ayers Corp) who was invaluable in knowing how Things Are Done, obtaining
aircraft hardware (yes, I paid for it) and for checking us out a
swedging tool for squeezing the nico sleeves.
It was a swedging tool checked out of the Certified Tool section of the
Rockwell factory. Used for certified aircraft.
Since I had never done any swedging before, I thought it prudent to do a
few practice attempts, cable was cheap, nicos were cheap, and getting it
right seemed important. So I made a couple, and then made a short length
with a loop with thimble & nico on each end. But how to test my attempt?
For whatever reason, (don't remember why) there was a hook in the roof
of my garage, so I hooked one thimble loop over the hook, and put a big
screwdriver through the loop at the lower end. Decided that if I could
chin myself on it by holding the screwdriver with both hands and pulling
up, that would demonstrate that the 3/32 cable could at least hold 180
pounds. ( I was skinnier back then...)
So I gave it a try. It had one nico per thimble. Swedged as per the
book. Using the factory's certified tool...
When that sucker pulled out, with me pulling down on that screwdriver,
supporting all my weight on it, it smashed it into the bridge of my
nose, knocked me silly, hurt like the devil, (I remember that part best
of all) and dumped me semi unconscious on my tush on the garage floor.
Oh, the humanity...
I gave the squeezer tool back to my pal at the Rockwell factory, got a
different one, and used two nicos per thimble loop from then on.
Feel free to use as many nicos as you want, and do it by the book all
you wish, but I know how I will be doing it...
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Thom Riddle wrote:
>
> According to 43-13 one, done correctly, is plenty strong. I'd rather have one
done correctly than two done poorly.
>
> Thom in Buffalo
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30190#30190
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ETHANOL AS A FUEL ADDITIVE |
| From: | "Dave Bigelow" <up_country(at)hotmail.com> |
Here in Hawaii, all fuel (except avaiation) sold in the state is mandated by law
to contain up to 10% ethanol (E-10). There is no source of standard gasoline
available in the State.
I did quite a bit of research on the subject. It's not a big deal with four stroke
engines built within the last ten years or so. Earlier engines may have
deterioration of fuel system components, if operated with E-10.
It's a different story for two stroke engines. Rotax has a service bulletin out
that cautions against using gasoline with more than 5% ethanol. I called Lockwood
Aviation and spoke to one of their techs. The problem is that the ethanol
eats up the crankcase seals over time. They recommend using 100 octane low
lead aviation gasoline if standard auto gas is not available.
There can be problems with premix if E-10 is used. In general, synthetic oils
don't mix well with an ethanol/gas blend. A gallon of E-10 contains less energy
than a gallon of gasoline, and also runs slightly leaner with the same jetting
than gasoline. Also, E-10 can absorb much more water than standard gasoline.
--------
Dave Bigelow
Kamuela, Hawaii
FS2, Rotax 503 DCDI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30296#30296
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dangerous or just scary |
| Feel free to use as many nicos as you want, and do it by the book
all
| you wish, but I know how I will be doing it...
|
| Richard Pike
You didn't mention if you checked your single nico with a proper
"go-no go gauge".
There is more than one way to screw up a good nico press sleeve
connection.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ultralight crash in Baldwin County Alabama/Florida |
> We had a Chinook crash a few years ago at Chanute Ks, The airport oper.
was test flying it for a guy. The whole outer 1/3 of the wing just
folded down and he spun in from 500 ft. He was just flying the pat.
Doing nothing to cause a structal failure. He survived with no injuries
Flycrazy8(at)aol.com
>
>
> It was a Chinook two seat. It had been rebuild and test flown about two
> weeks
> prior to the accident. It is suspected that there was some type of engine
> failure or power loss.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30106#30106
>
>
> Thanks Guys for the info....This what I found out too...
>
>
> Elberta man is killed in plane crash
> Thursday, April 20, 2006
> By DANIEL JACKSON
> Staff Reporter
>
> LILLIAN -- An Elberta pilot died on his 50th birthday Wednesday when the
> experimental aircraft he was flying with a friend crashed in a pasture in
> this eastern Baldwin County community.
>
> Scott Hanft died immediately after the plane went down about 9 a.m., just
> north of a pond at a residence on Sunset Drive in Lillian, the Baldwin
> County Sheriff's Office reported.
>
> His passenger, Charles Bingle, 61, of Elberta, was airlifted to
> Pensacola's
> Baptist Hospital, where he was listed in critical condition after surgery
> Wednesday evening, said Stephanie Young, the hospital's assistant director
> of nursing.
>
> As members of the Lite Blue Angels, a group of about 40 pilots that fly
> experimental and ultralight aircraft from a private airstrip nearby, Hanft
> and Bingle had plenty of flying experience, according to several who knew
> them.
>
> James Clark, an investigator with the Federal Aviation Administration, who
> started searching through the plane's wreckage about 5 p.m., said he had
> not
> yet determined the cause of the accident.
>
> Larry Nix, who owns the property where the plane fell, said his wife, who
> was home ill, heard the crash.
>
> "She said it sounded like it was going to hit the house," Nix said. "She
> got
> on a golf cart and drove out to them, but by the time she got out there,
> some of the guys that were watching them fly at the airstrip had come over
> the fence to help."
>
> Ian Garnham, a member of the Lite Blue Angels since about 1996, said Hanft
> flew three or four circles solo on a flight path around the airstrip at
> Shield's Field, then landed and went up again with Bingle, who owns the
> aircraft.
>
> Garnham said experimental aircraft like the one that crashed -- a Chinook
> two-seater, single-engine pusher -- do not meet FAA regulations, but they
> are proven designs that have been in the air worldwide for years.
>
> An average flight in the plane is about 30 to 40 miles at an altitude of
> about 1,000 feet, according to club members.
>
>
-----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | A rant about inspection and expectations |
In Richard Pike's story one important detail was left out so, I have to ask.
Did you check the swaged nico sleeve to see that it met the spec for that
size cable?
I've been a machinist and inspector in the aerospace industry since I
started working 35 years ago. Relying on certs to perform a job is a damn
good way to get yourself, or your customer killed. In aerospace, all
critical equipment must not ony be certified, it must be calibrated. Without
calibration of the tool, you have no idea what it does. If it was dropped,
misused, or in some other way impaired from performing its function, this is
where it is caught. After that the job is inspected. In the case of cable, a
sample is tested to limit load and checked for stretch and damage. Even
after that, each cable is visually inspected by the operator, the inspector,
and the mechanic who installs it. While you did the load limit test and got
a failure, that's all you know. If you didn't do the inspection step, and
this applies to every builder, shame on you for not finishing the job.
What truly appals me is the reccurring theme of two wrongs give more
security that one right. A nico sleeve is no different than any other
process done to build an aircraft. It has a procedure and it has a
specification to which it can be inspected and certified. You don't even
have to buy the tool recommended by the company, although a go nogo gauge is
deadhead simple, you can use a caliper, just as well. With the cheap Chinese
copies of swaging tools on eBay and other consumer outlets, the need for
inspection is greater, not less.
If you start off with a second best is good enough attitude, what else are
you going to overlook or let slide by? Burt Rutan, said it best when he
talked about the level of workmanship required to build an airplane, "your
best is barely good enough". Major accidents are almost always caused by
the accumulation of minor ills. Does it matter which one tips the scales?
End of rant.
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A rant about inspection and expectations |
| I've been a machinist and inspector in the aerospace industry since
I
| started working 35 years ago.
| --
| Rick Girard
Good words.
However, most of us "shade tree" aircraft mechanics do not have an
aerospace industry inspector and machinist to back up our work. We
have to rely on what is available to us, and do the best we can to
make our aircraft as flyable and safe as possible.
As pertains to nicopress sleeves, one can get the measurements from
the AC, stick them in a $10.00 caliper, and check, those sleeves to
insure they are compressed as recommended.
For the most part, most of us "shade tree" aircraft mechanics have a
darn good track record based on many hours of safe, fun flight.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dangerous or just scary |
| From: | "Gherkins Tim-rp3420" <rp3420(at)freescale.com> |
Rick and gang,
Rick, thank you for the kind comments about our kolbs. Just logged on
to my computer this morning to see this thread and thought I would share
my thoughts on swegded nicos.
Double nico swedging practice came from the early ultralight craze
starting back in mid 70's. These early pioneers would swedge a nico and
the cable end would snag and tear sails when setting up and breaking
down the ese early ultralights. One soulution was to nico the very end
of the cable so no cable was protruding to do such sail damage. Then
over the years the thought evolved as redundancy. Go look at any
general aviation aircraft, they only have one swedged nico.
Yes, we tested the swedges with a "go" and "no go" gauge. And we also
tested the same way Richard did, but with 300 plus pounds. Uncle Craig
even cut a swedged nico open to show me the effects of the nico swedge
squeeze. It is amazing to see how the copper will inandate into the
finest twines of the cable. One swedge, done correctly and to
specification is more than enough, the cable will break before the
swedge.
Yes, I did only use one swedge on rudder- I loose rudder, the machine
still flies. Yes, I did use two on my elevator- I loose elevator, well,
that is the only flight control that I must have. Because of this
reason, and maybe for my own mental health, I doubled up on swedges.
Again, for my own mental thoughts- five little kids w/o father
thoughts.......
As we built on both of our Kolb projects we were litterly sometimes like
the Wright bros. Fighting over exactly how things should be done,
engineered, or have been done. With these synergestic moments we would
come up with a or test that none of us would have engineered or tested
alone.
Uncle Craig and a very close friend who is an A&P and master craftsman,
and I mean "master craftsman"- we call him weird Larry. When you see
uncle Craigs Xtra in person, ask me what weird Larry did on it and I
will show you, it puts my uncle and myselfs custome work to shame. To
this day I still look at some of the details Larry did and wonder how he
did it. Larry is constantly approached by airplane restoration groups
and museums to restore WWI, WWII, golden age and classic aircraft back
to flying condition. You give Larry a 4x4' sheet of 2024-T3 and he
will place any type of bend, joggle, curl, compound curve, twist, you
name it......it's mind boggling!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard &
Martha Neilsen
Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2006 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Dangerous or just scary
-->
I put two nicropress sleeves on all my cables for the same reasons Mr.
Pike
talks about but... Engineering data suggests that these joints a much
stronger than the cables so if they are done right there is no problem.
Some
times us backyard engineers do things to our planes that we think makes
them
stronger but in fact crates a weakness where there was none. The single
sleeve is normal aircraft practice.
I have seen Tim's work up close and it is shows some of the best
craftsmanship I have ever seen. I for one would not think twice of
flying
anything he has worked on.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2006 11:18 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Dangerous or just scary
>
> I would like to see the nicopress sleeves doubled up. On every wire
> pictured. Nicos are cheap for the benefit that redundancy provides.
> Maybe the factories have enough quality control that they can get by
> with just one... we are amateurs, nicos are cheap, and redundancy is a
> good thing.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dangerous or just scary |
| From: | "Gherkins Tim-rp3420" <rp3420(at)freescale.com> |
OOOPS! Accidentaly sent rough draft reply without spell check or going
over real well--Im sure you catch my drift.???
Tim Gherkins
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Thom Riddle
Sent: Sunday, April 23, 2006 11:41 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Dangerous or just scary
According to 43-13 one, done correctly, is plenty strong. I'd rather
have one done correctly than two done poorly.
Thom in Buffalo
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30190#30190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skyrider2" <skyrider2(at)earthlink.net> |
In regards to the ongoing discussion on swaging NICO's, I noted that one
thing hasn't been discussed. The plastic coating found on a lot of aircraft
quality SS cable MUST be removed before crimping the NICO's.
There was a kit manufacturer in the early days of ultralights that failed to
do this and people died. Always use a "check" guage (Go/Nogo) after swaging
cables.
Later,
Doug
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gouldings Lodge ultralight policies |
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot2(at)comcast.net> |
Jim and All,
You will be doing a disservice to everyone by driving to the MV Tribal Park Entrance
and talking about "Flying Rights" over their land.
We had this same discussion last year. They can charge to drive on their land but
can't charge to fly over it at FAA minimum safe altitudes.
If you tell them that you are paying the $5 for the opportunity to retrieve your
downed ultralight, if the occasion should occur, that is different.
I will do as I did last year, fly, enjoy and have fun. If the need arises, I will
approach them as any other landowner in this country to retrieve my property.
If the Tribe were to come to the airport and collect the fee, I would gladly
pay it and safely buzz the heck out of the place.
Only 26 mor days to wait.
--------
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolbra, 912ULS
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30377#30377
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ETHANOL AS A FUEL ADDITIVE |
| From: | "Jim Ballenger" <ulpilot(at)cavtel.net> |
Thanks to all for the feedback on the ethanol.
Jim
MK3X
Virginia Beach, VA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30403#30403
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Shorting the bow tips |
<< Been there, done that, on my Firestar II. I would not recommend it. I
thought that I would gain some speed but I could not see that it did that
but slowed the take off a bit ( Not that that hurt anything). I shortened
the bow about 8 inches on each side. In my opinion, you will not gain
anything worthwhile. Az Bald Eagle >>
Here's another story that corroborates this exact point:
In the mid-90s, at the little airport I fly out of near Albuquerque, a
fellow arrived with a newly-purchased Mark-III that he bought from someone
in Arizona who built it with shortened wingtips. In the attempt to "make it
a little more agile," the builder truncated the wing at the end of the spar,
essentially eliminating the tip bow altogether.
Our hapless buyer had no Kolb experience, so he talked one of the local
ultralight instructors into doing a few test flights in the Kolb, to better
evaluate how the plane flew. This instructor was experienced, including
time in Kolbs, but he was not prepared for the drastic decrease in available
lift at low speeds in this modified Mark-3.
On the first test flight, the engine quit just after departure, at about
300' AGL. At this altitude, most normal light sport airplanes in this
weight class are able to execute a 90 degree turn and glide safely to a
landing on this airport's crossing runway. My instructor friend tells us
that, while trying to do this, it stalled at nearly 60 mph in a slight turn.
Spun it in from nearly 80 feet. Totaled the Mark-3, but he survived with
only a charley horse in his thigh.
Aside from taking away the message that you should leave Homer's wings
alone, this story speaks volumes about the crash worthiness of these Kolb
airplanes!
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, 912ul
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A rant about inspection and expectations |
At 11:41 AM 4/24/2006, you wrote:
>
> | I've been a machinist and inspector in the aerospace industry since
>-snip---
>For the most part, most of us "shade tree" aircraft mechanics have a
>darn good track record based on many hours of safe, fun flight.
>
>john h
Some advise about "Kolb Drivers"
Kolb people are notorious, not only for their skill, but for their attitude.
Most of them have built more than one Ultralight, many have built more than
one Kolb. Some have paid the price for their arrogance, if you want
to call it that.
We push it a little bit. Whether you consider that good or
bad...presumptuous maybe?
But then again..(into the gin) ..you got to fly that thing at the end
of the day.
That pile of tubes and fabric, that is what is was, this is who we are.
What we get is a certain amount of tolerance for a certain amount of risk.
What am I talkin bout Beauford??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Cables |
Richard Pike wrote:
>
> I make all my own cables. Here is a way to positively prevent the cable
> ends coming off.
>
attachments didn't go through-
will try again tomorrow.
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | One last humourous blast about Nicos |
In 1974, ultralights didn't exist as a recognized class of aircraft, and
hang gliders were darn scarce. Hang gliders in Kansas were very rare indeed.
I had just finished my first homebuilt aircraft, a Seagull III, and had
taught myself to fly it. My wife and I were driving back home from Wichita
when we were passed by a Datsun 510 with a long roll of plastic on the roof.
I didn't give it much thought until I found the Datsun pulled over to the
side of the road. I stopped and found a young couple like ourselves,
introduced myself and was told, why, yes, indeed it was a hang glider on the
roof. I told him about the Seagull, how I had bought the tubing kit last
year, built all the other parts and rigged it, and had finally been able to
afford a sail for it just a few months ago. I invited them to stop by on
their way south.
When Stan arrived I suggested we set up our gliders and check them out. Ah,
the days of no ribs, battens, or zippers in sails, bags or harnesses. We
were both set up in five minutes. I showed him some of the finer points of
the Seagull, especially all the parts I had made from block since I couldn't
get the extrusions called out in the plans.
Stan was especially puzzled by the nico press sleeves on the wires.
"How'd you get them all nice and smooth like that?"
I explained how I had been lucky and found just the right tool in the tool
crib at work and they had signed it out to me so I could do the wires.
"There's a tool for that? I just used vice grips."
We had begun to work our way over to his glider. Sure enough, the vice grips
left big tool marks on the nico sleeves. On the sides of the nicos at that.
My eye was caught by the printing on the aluminum tubing, 5052-0, in bright
red letters. The swing seat was a piece of 2 X 6 with ropes nailed on.
"Have you flown this, yet?", I asked.
"Oh, yeah, I couldn't wait to get out to a hill, so we just towed it behind
the car." "I've got pictures."
Documentary evidence of the whole design iteration process of getting his
glider to fly was contained in those twenty photos.
"It wouldn't balance right so my brother came up with the idea to cut these
slits in the sail and it worked great."
The picture showed two foot long gashes extending forward from the trailing
edge. The next showed the glider and pilot 30 to 40 feet in the air at a
surreal angle of attack.
"Yeah, it won't fly much below 35, we had to run like hell to take off."
I thought about my options, and began to tell him that I didn't think his
aircraft was airworthy, and why. In the end, I gave him my copy of Dan
Poynter's book "Hang Gliding" and let him go to draw his own conclusions.
The next time I saw him he was flying a factory built glider called a
"Pliable Moose". He had never flown the plastic sailed glider again after
that day in my back yard. We flew together for the next four years before I
left for Washington. The last summer before I moved, Stan, his friend, Don,
and I found we could get a dealership for a thing called a Soarmaster, if we
bought three. But that's another story altogether.
Folks, I swear this story is true in every detail except Stan's name.
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Some advise about old "Kolb Drivers" |
>
>Some advise about "Kolb Drivers"
>
>What we get is a certain amount of tolerance for a certain amount of risk.
>What am I talkin bout Beauford??
Can I reply to myself ?
Don't listen to me... I'll be in therapy for the rest of my life -
503 x 700 hrs = ?
Times approximate. List was current at time of printing. Any
resemblance to real persons, living or dead, is purely coincidental.
I don't have a single "nico" --- on my whole plane - mine are all
"machined swagged".
I've had them on my old 1983 "Hawk", my old 1990 "FireStar",
I've even own a press - etc. - but I don't like them.
I feel like Forrest Gump - "That's a lot to dooo.."
At least with these I've got at least 1/2 inch + - adjustment each way.
Lot's of measuring - one chance to get it right (an old Irish custom)
so don't be afraid!!
Most of your local aerodromes have access to one of these machines - I'm sure.
It only cost an extra $200 total - if you get it right the first or
2nd time? Trust me - OK.
As far as Ethanol (which is basically wood grain alcohol) - up in the
hills here in N. Ga,
we don't just put it in the cars..we drink it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dangerous or just scary |
Pretty harsh, Craig. You seemed like a fair and decent person when I met
you at Monument Valley. Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Nelson" <vitalfx0(at)qwest.net>
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Dangerous or just scary
>
> Yes the other milow has only one nicco. It is because of me milow has
> only one nicco on his plane. again if you look at general aircraft there
> is not one example where I have seen two nicco's I have not seen two
> nicco's on any commercial aircraft and I have not seen two nicco's on any
> helicopters. if the press is calibrated one nicco is as strong as the
> cable and Old poops I don't know what you are using to swedge your nicco's
> to have a cable fail with only 150 lbs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Cables |
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
I make all my own cables. Here is a way to positively prevent the cable
ends coming off.
The attachments show typical CPS cable ends, and then show it slid over
a cable.
Note that they have a beveled and an unbeveled end.
The beveled end is to make it easier to slip it over the cable, but you
don't care about that, you are going to use the bevel for the opposite
reason - to make it impossible to get the cable to come out of the
swedge end, so you slip it on the cable backwards.
You want the swedge with the beveled end towards the end of the cable.
Slide the swedge over the cable
Rat tail the end of the cable. Screw it up good. You want a cable that
is too buggered up to fit back out through the swedge anymore.
The goal is to make it impossible to pull back out.
Now pull it down into the swedge until it you have 1/16" to 3/32"
sticking out.
Lay some solder on it, do it right, let it cool.
You especially want the solder to fill all the rat tailed ends of the
cable, and be well attached.
Now you have a cable that is expanded just past the bevel, it is too big
to go through any more, plus the solder filling the end makes it too big
to go through, plus the adhesion of the solder to the swedge.
Test it. Pull it through if you can. If your solder job is any good at
all, you can't.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30533#30533
Attachments:
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http://forums.matronics.com//files/solderswage3_125.jpg
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http://forums.matronics.com//files/solderswage1_191.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dangerous or just scary |
| From: | "Gherkins Tim-rp3420" <rp3420(at)freescale.com> |
Larry and gang,
Your right! That was pretty harsh???? I think uncle Craig was having a
bad day? Please ignore his rant, I will apologize for his post.
Tim Gherkins
Firestar II
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Bourne
Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2006 6:05 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Dangerous or just scary
Pretty harsh, Craig. You seemed like a fair and decent person when I
met
you at Monument Valley. Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Nelson" <vitalfx0(at)qwest.net>
Sent: Monday, April 24, 2006 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Dangerous or just scary
>
> Yes the other milow has only one nicco. It is because of me milow has
> only one nicco on his plane. again if you look at general aircraft
there
> is not one example where I have seen two nicco's I have not seen two
> nicco's on any commercial aircraft and I have not seen two nicco's on
any
> helicopters. if the press is calibrated one nicco is as strong as the
> cable and Old poops I don't know what you are using to swedge your
nicco's
> to have a cable fail with only 150 lbs
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Blackwell <wozani(at)optonline.net> |
| Subject: | nico press swage tool |
Here is the link to the simple screw together Swageit tool at aircraft
spruce:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/swageit.php
It's the one I used for repairs and replacements. Also here is the go-no go
gauge to check them with.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/gonogo.php
Less than $60 for the whole set up.
Charlie, MkII in NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dangerous or just scary |
We need to move on to new things but...
In a previous post I talked about some backyard engineers changing things to
make something stronger but in fact creating weakness. I checked out a
MKIIIc last summer were the builder had changed the control wires for the
elevator from stock to what looked like 1/4 - 5/16 galvanized steel cables.
I don't remember if any of the fittings on this control system were beefed
up, I don't think so. My comment at the time was wow you must get some major
cable slap.
Now that I think more about this, I feel that this is a good example of us
backyard engineers trying to make something stronger but actually making it
weaker. The stock cables are plenty strong. Seems like someone stated that
they are rated at 480lbs. By increasing the size of the cables they fixed
some thing that wasn't broken. By increasing the size of the cables they
added weight. More importantly this weight has to be carried by pulling the
cables with considerably more force than is necessary to keep the lighter
cables suspended in the fuselage tube. When they taxi on rough ground the
stress on the control system goes up big time. The control system is only as
strong as its weakest link and the cables were likely never the weakest link
(but I'm not a structural engineer). My point is this added stress could
cause a critical control system failure just by having to carry the added
stretched cable weight.
My personal rule is don't change the structural design of your airplane
unless you KNOW you are making a overall improvement. Even then it is a good
idea to check with the designer or someone else that DOES KNOW about these
things.
Be careful out there.
Again this advice is worth what you paid for it.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MKIIIX040" <vicsvinyl(at)verizon.net> |
Speaking of cable noise. Has anyone ever figured out a good way to stop that sound
that reminds me more of a sailboat mast than an aircraft.
Vic
MKIIIX
--------
MKIIIX040
912UL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30598#30598
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)inebraska.com> |
Titans are similar, using a boom also. The factory made a foam plug that
fits about half-way down the boom. It has holes for cable guides that keep
the cables from slapping, plus a hole for the elevator tube.
They don't include them on the S or SS models anymore, but maybe they still
make them for the others. I made one for my SS, since it was the prototype.
I looked, but I don't have any pictures of the plug. It's about 2" thick,
and the type of foam is such that the cables won't saw it to pieces.
J.D. Stewart
UltraFun AirSports, LLC
http://www.ultrafunairsports.com
Challenger e-mail list
http://challenger.inebraska.com
Titan e-mail list
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Titanaircraft/
>
> Guys
>
> I think a few feet of the Kolb supplied fuel line on each cable in
> the tail boom would help. Herb
> writes:
> >
> >
> >
> > "Finally, try rubber cables, or keep the steel cables and go to a
> > rubber tail boom."
> >
> > Bungee cords maybe?
> >
> > Vic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt(at)kilocharlie.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Dangerous or just scary |
(CONTENTS OF MESSAGE EDITTED)
KMA- Duane the PLAIN
Ahhhh, there is that eloquence you are so famous for...wondered how long
till that came out.
Jeremy "had my mouth washed out long time ago" Casey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Key" <dhkey(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dangerous or just scary |
famous again!! usually takes a month or so to get famous again huh?
From: "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt(at)kilocharlie.us>
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: Dangerous or just scary
Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 16:55:51 -0400
>
>
>(CONTENTS OF MESSAGE EDITTED)
>
>
> KMA- Duane the PLAIN
>
>
>
>
>
>Ahhhh, there is that eloquence you are so famous for...wondered how long
>till that came out.
>
>
>Jeremy "had my mouth washed out long time ago" Casey
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Mallory" <wcm(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Mike (planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com) |
Matt,
I assume that you are monitoring this garbage.
How much does it take to get some loud mouthed,
uncultured, filth spewing jerk removed from the list????????
I think that I'm pretty much done with this list, I know that there are
many, many great and knowledgeable people on this list but it only takes one
giant, ill tempered "RECTAL CAVITY" like Planecrazzzy, a.k.a. Mike P. to
turn it into a verbal (foul mouthed) porn site.
Matt, please do your job and "Take out the garbage"
Thanks
Chris Mallory
PLEASE ARCHIVE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dallas Shepherd" <cen23954(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mike (planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com) |
Matt: I'll add my vote on to that. I worked for 40 years with foul mouth,
so called "men" who couldn't get passed four letter words to express them
selves. I had to have the work so had to put up with a lot of it until I
became the plant manager. I'm retired and 73 now and I don't want to lose
the Kolb list, but this guy is too much and upsets the sensibility of other
members of this list.
Dallas Shepherd
Norfork, Arkansas
-------Original Message-------
From: Chris Mallory
Date: 04/25/06 17:11:28
Subject: Kolb-List: Mike (planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com)
Matt,
I assume that you are monitoring this garbage.
How much does it take to get some loud mouthed,
uncultured, filth spewing jerk removed from the list????????
I think that I'm pretty much done with this list, I know that there are
many, many great and knowledgeable people on this list but it only takes one
giant, ill tempered "RECTAL CAVITY" like Planecrazzzy, a.k.a. Mike P. to
turn it into a verbal (foul mouthed) porn site.
Matt, please do your job and "Take out the garbage"
Thanks
Chris Mallory
PLEASE ARCHIVE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Noyer <a58r(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Throttle Cables |
Regarding the application of solder to ends of cable.
In the not too dim past I was doing the airframe annual inspection on
an old (ain't no new ones) TriPacer. Running an old pair(?) of ladies
hose down some of the control cables, I hit a snag at a (single!)
nico. The cable had been cut off, maybe strand-by-strand with dikes
as they were uneven in length. Some strands did have solder balls,
but close inspection with mag glass and big light showed not only
many strands not soldered, but a kind of corrosion that wasn't
rust...that looked like it went back into the nico, and maybe further
down the cable. The owner readily admitted to the previous soldering,
since he'd heard that was a good safety factor.
BUT he had trouble getting solder to flow and tin the strands, since
the cable had been oiled in a former life. So, as an time soldering
expert, he dipped a shop rag in a nearby battery and wicked some acid
up...and dampened the end with it. Some solder did flow, but more
acid went down the cable...and worked its magic for a whole year.
regards,
Bob N.
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dangerous or just scary |
In a message dated 4/25/2006 9:28:51 A.M. Central Standard Time,
NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net writes:
My personal rule is don't change the structural design of your airplane
unless you KNOW you are making a overall improvement. Even then it is a good
idea to check with the designer or someone else that DOES KNOW about these
things.
Be careful out there.
Again this advice is worth what you paid for it.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
Rick,
This Is some of the most useful advice I have seen on this list!!!!!
Ed Diebel Firefly # 62
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dangerous or just scary |
Same here, Mike.... well... "BOOOM" ..... You're blocked at my
house....
Whatever,
Go Fly...
Beauford
----- Original Message ----- >
> I guess you can only take so much of somebody TWISTING your words
around til you won't stand for it .....and well....BOOOM
>
> Whatever,
> Gotta Fly
>
> --------
> .
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Dangerous or just scary |
The builders manual that came with the MKIII and the FSII both specify 2
nicos per end of each cable.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
DAquaNut(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 4/25/2006 9:28:51 A.M. Central Standard Time,
> NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net writes:
>
> My personal rule is don't change the structural design of your airplane
> unless you KNOW you are making a overall improvement. Even then it is a good
> idea to check with the designer or someone else that DOES KNOW about these
> things.
>
> Be careful out there.
>
> Again this advice is worth what you paid for it.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
>
>
> Rick,
> This Is some of the most useful advice I have seen on this list!!!!!
>
> Ed Diebel Firefly # 62
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)msbit.net> |
Jim Baker
580.788.2779
Elmore City, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)msbit.net> |
| Subject: | Well, redux...... |
That was supposed to be an embedded image of my mail filter rule that bids
PlaneCranky adieu....and not a fond one at that. Off to the infinite bit-bucket
you go.....
Jim Baker
580.788.2779
Elmore City, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dangerous or just scary |
Rick and others,
My elevator and rudder cables are the originals and have never been changed in
19 years. I used to inspect them every year, then it was every 2 years, then every
5 years. Every time, they are perfect with no detectable wear. I have untwisted
them where they go around the pulley with all strands intact.
Ralph
Original Firestar
19 years flying with 2 nicros at each end
-- "Richard & Martha Neilsen" wrote:
We need to move on to new things but...
In a previous post I talked about some backyard engineers changing things to
make something stronger but in fact creating weakness. I checked out a
MKIIIc last summer were the builder had changed the control wires for the
elevator from stock to what looked like 1/4 - 5/16 galvanized steel cables.
I don't remember if any of the fittings on this control system were beefed
up, I don't think so. My comment at the time was wow you must get some major
cable slap.
Now that I think more about this, I feel that this is a good example of us
backyard engineers trying to make something stronger but actually making it
weaker. The stock cables are plenty strong. Seems like someone stated that
they are rated at 480lbs. By increasing the size of the cables they fixed
some thing that wasn't broken. By increasing the size of the cables they
added weight. More importantly this weight has to be carried by pulling the
cables with considerably more force than is necessary to keep the lighter
cables suspended in the fuselage tube. When they taxi on rough ground the
stress on the control system goes up big time. The control system is only as
strong as its weakest link and the cables were likely never the weakest link
(but I'm not a structural engineer). My point is this added stress could
cause a critical control system failure just by having to carry the added
stretched cable weight.
My personal rule is don't change the structural design of your airplane
unless you KNOW you are making a overall improvement. Even then it is a good
idea to check with the designer or someone else that DOES KNOW about these
things.
Be careful out there.
Again this advice is worth what you paid for it.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Dangerous or just scary |
In a message dated 4/25/2006 6:47:47 P.M. Central Standard Time,
richard(at)bcchapel.org writes:
The builders manual that came with the MKIII and the FSII both specify 2
nicos per end of each cable.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Richard,
My Firefly quickbuild kit came that way from factory. So far so good.
Ed Firefly # 62
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mike (planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com) |
Okay guys, let's settle down. I went and read the thread from the top (see here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=7004 ). Mike's initial comment was very much in the context of what "he" considered dangerous. Later on, there were some follow up comments that were pretty harsh toward Mike and his initial comments. Consequently, Mike lashed out spewing altogether inappropriate profanity, but interestingly his comments still were not directed at anyone specifically.
Now, I haven't really been following the content too closely and so maybe this
is just another in a sequence of similar outbursts, I don't know. Whatever the
case is, Mike, please refrain from using profanity on the List. This is unprofessional
and not acceptable behavior on the List. Further profanity will result
in permanent removal from the List.
To everyone on the List, please review your posts before hitting that Send button.
We don't need off handed personal attacks on the List, no matter who they
are directed toward. That is just as unprofessional and unacceptable as the
profanity. Frankly, more unacceptable. Using profanity doesn't hurt my feelings,
but calling me names can.
I am asking everyone on the List to think twice about the content of their post
and whether or not it will be considered offensive. There is absolutely no reason
that any post to this List should be considered "offensive" to anyone subscribed
to the List. And everyone knows what I'm talking about. Disagreeing
with someone's opinion absolutely can be done in an unoffensive manner.
Think -> Write -> THINK -> Post
Don't forget that second THINK!
Matt Dralle
Matronics List Admin.
At 03:21 PM 4/25/2006 Tuesday, you wrote:
>
> Matt: I'll add my vote on to that. I worked for 40 years with foul mouth,
>so called "men" who couldn't get passed four letter words to express them
>selves. I had to have the work so had to put up with a lot of it until I
>became the plant manager. I'm retired and 73 now and I don't want to lose
>the Kolb list, but this guy is too much and upsets the sensibility of other
>members of this list.
>Dallas Shepherd
>Norfork, Arkansas
>
>-------Original Message-------
>
>From: Chris Mallory
>Date: 04/25/06 17:11:28
>To: Kolb List
>Subject: Kolb-List: Mike (planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com)
>
>
>
>Matt,
>
>I assume that you are monitoring this garbage.
>
>How much does it take to get some loud mouthed,
>
>uncultured, filth spewing jerk removed from the list????????
>
>I think that I'm pretty much done with this list, I know that there are
>many, many great and knowledgeable people on this list but it only takes one
>giant, ill tempered "RECTAL CAVITY" like Planecrazzzy, a.k.a. Mike P. to
>turn it into a verbal (foul mouthed) porn site.
>
>Matt, please do your job and "Take out the garbage"
>
>Thanks
>
>Chris Mallory
>
>PLEASE ARCHIVE
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Mallory" <wcm(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mike (planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com) |
Well, I make no appoligies for stating the obvious with regard to
"Planecrazzzy"
My attack was personal and it should have been, I was personaly offended
(once again) buy this crude individual and I don't feel as though I needed
to respond "IN GENERAL"
People like this have no place in a civilized Society other that to serve as
a bad example.
I personaly think that the "wrist slap" was further insult and one more time
that Mike has gotten by with being the sarcastic, acidic, mean spirited
person that he is.
You may as well just ask him to take a "time out" or sit in a corner.
I think he should be GONE.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2006 11:34 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mike (planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com)
>
>
> Okay guys, let's settle down. I went and read the thread from the top
> (see here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=7004 ). Mike's
> initial comment was very much in the context of what "he" considered
> dangerous. Later on, there were some follow up comments that were pretty
> harsh toward Mike and his initial comments. Consequently, Mike lashed out
> spewing altogether inappropriate profanity, but interestingly his comments
> still were not directed at anyone specifically.
>
> Now, I haven't really been following the content too closely and so maybe
> this is just another in a sequence of similar outbursts, I don't know.
> Whatever the case is, Mike, please refrain from using profanity on the
> List. This is unprofessional and not acceptable behavior on the List.
> Further profanity will result in permanent removal from the List.
>
> To everyone on the List, please review your posts before hitting that Send
> button. We don't need off handed personal attacks on the List, no matter
> who they are directed toward. That is just as unprofessional and
> unacceptable as the profanity. Frankly, more unacceptable. Using
> profanity doesn't hurt my feelings, but calling me names can.
>
> I am asking everyone on the List to think twice about the content of their
> post and whether or not it will be considered offensive. There is
> absolutely no reason that any post to this List should be considered
> "offensive" to anyone subscribed to the List. And everyone knows what I'm
> talking about. Disagreeing with someone's opinion absolutely can be done
> in an unoffensive manner.
>
> Think -> Write -> THINK -> Post
>
> Don't forget that second THINK!
>
> Matt Dralle
> Matronics List Admin.
>
>
> At 03:21 PM 4/25/2006 Tuesday, you wrote:
>>
>>
>> Matt: I'll add my vote on to that. I worked for 40 years with foul
>> mouth,
>>so called "men" who couldn't get passed four letter words to express them
>>selves. I had to have the work so had to put up with a lot of it until I
>>became the plant manager. I'm retired and 73 now and I don't want to lose
>>the Kolb list, but this guy is too much and upsets the sensibility of
>>other
>>members of this list.
>>Dallas Shepherd
>>Norfork, Arkansas
>>
>>-------Original Message-------
>>
>>From: Chris Mallory
>>Date: 04/25/06 17:11:28
>>To: Kolb List
>>Subject: Kolb-List: Mike (planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com)
>>
>>
>>
>>Matt,
>>
>>I assume that you are monitoring this garbage.
>>
>>How much does it take to get some loud mouthed,
>>
>>uncultured, filth spewing jerk removed from the list????????
>>
>>I think that I'm pretty much done with this list, I know that there are
>>many, many great and knowledgeable people on this list but it only takes
>>one
>>giant, ill tempered "RECTAL CAVITY" like Planecrazzzy, a.k.a. Mike P. to
>>turn it into a verbal (foul mouthed) porn site.
>>
>>Matt, please do your job and "Take out the garbage"
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>Chris Mallory
>>
>>PLEASE ARCHIVE
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tc1917" <tc1917(at)hughes.net> |
I would like to add something to the 'solder the end of the cable to keep it
from slipping through the nico' discussion. I have been building and flying
RC models almost forty years and have built several large models. WWI
planes have cables and you have to figure a way to replace them or repair
them in the field usually. I have crimped, swedged, screwed and soldered
and one thing came out clear. If you heat a steel/SS cable even to solder
it, it seems to lose its ability to flex and will become brittle and break
upon bending. I just want to add this. I ALWAYS use two nicos -- both done
perfectly -- which adds to the redundancy and I NEVER have to worry about
them. I use the two bolt swedge unit from Aircraft Spruce. Tough to use at
times but well worth the time. The big trick is make SURE you have the
swedge tool centered so it does not squeeze the cable at the end of the
nico. It will bell out at the ends very nicely. If it is not done right,
carefully use a dremell cutting tool and cut it in half and start again.
Done that many times. After all, it is ONLY your life that depends on it.
Oh, yeah, watch out you dont have a bow in one of the cables between the
nicos. Take your time and do it right and you will live forever until you
die. Ted Cowan. Alabama. By the way, Beverly and I are having an
Ultralight get to gether on June 10 again this year. All are welcome.
Camping available. For info go to: www.airnav.com AL51. Contact me off
list for further info. Also info at: www.homestead.com/southernflyers at
the events section.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dangerous or just scary |
| From: | "Rex Rodebush" <rrodebush(at)tema.net> |
Wanted to add some information on nicos before this thing totally blows
up!
The first time I used the small "bolt on each side" nico compressor tool
the nicos came out lopsided. Turned out the top and bottom halfs of the
clamp were not aligned. The top and bottom of the holes were shifted at
the center line. I bought another tool thru Aircraft Spruce and the
holes were perfectly centered. The nicos came out looking like they
were supposed to with a good fit on the go-no go gage. I don't remember
where I got the first tool.
I also used two nicos per the plans. Sorry if I offend.
Rex Rodebush
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Another Milestone??? - Landing Out |
FireFlyer's & Kolbers,
I put up a page at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly125.html
After reflecting on this event, I will change my departure procedure. On
take off I have been retracting the flaperons at 500 feet agl and reducing
the throttle to cruise rpm. And then I would cruise climb to the desired
altitude. In the future I will raise the level to 1,000 feet. If I had
done this on flight 590, I could have returned to the airport. Also, I
would have had a little more time and I might have gotten my flaperons
lowered before landing. A few miles slower might have made the difference
between bending or not bending the right gear leg.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Key" <dhkey(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Another Milestone??? - Landing Out |
I sure like to learn from reflections, thanks, I'll do the same!
>From: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Kolb-List: Another Milestone??? - Landing Out
>Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 09:41:18 -0500
>
>
>FireFlyer's & Kolbers,
>
>I put up a page at:
>
>http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly125.html
>
>After reflecting on this event, I will change my departure procedure. On
>take off I have been retracting the flaperons at 500 feet agl and reducing
>the throttle to cruise rpm. And then I would cruise climb to the desired
>altitude. In the future I will raise the level to 1,000 feet. If I had
>done this on flight 590, I could have returned to the airport. Also, I
>would have had a little more time and I might have gotten my flaperons
>lowered before landing. A few miles slower might have made the difference
>between bending or not bending the right gear leg.
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Winchester, IN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mike (planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com) |
> People like this have no place in a civilized Society other that to
serve as
> a bad example.
>From a different perch; these types of people have served quite
well as cannon fodder in lieu of the fortunate son's of........civilized
societies?
Do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Bass" <gtb(at)commspeed.net> |
| Subject: | Re: - Landing Out |
How unfortunate that we are not often treated to the type
of information and details of ALL incidents, regarding
these aircraft, as was provided by Mr. J. B. Hart.
His assistance, the photos, & the commentary of his
unexpected return to earth, make it quite clear, that any
one can, & probably WILL, at some time in their flight-life,
put their plane into unwanted, unknown, undesirable
teritory.
Thanks, for the reminder(s). And, Good On Ya'
George Bass
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Croke" <jon(at)joncroke.com> |
| Subject: | Firestar Trailer for Sale |
I have a Firestar open Trailer (custom designed) for sale. $500
I sold my Firestar last year and no longer need it.... it has =
removeable ramps and a boom tube support, etc. A picture is at =
www.Kolbpilot.com web page.
If you have any questions, please ask. I am located about 90 mi NE of =
OshKosh... so if you are coming to the airshow I would deliver.
Jon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Paule" <dpaule(at)frii.com> |
Well, the way we do it on sailboats is to put a nylon cable tie every so
often on the cable. Leave the end sticking out. Intall these pointing in
different directions.
Of course, in sailboats, the wires don't move up and down the mast.
Dave Paule
Boulder, CO
Firestar II,
Skywagon,
And, yes, a Corsair F-27 trimaran sailboat.
P.S. The Skywagon doesn't have Nicopress sleeves on its cables - they have
proper aerospace swaged cable terminals, e.g., MS20667. Whoever said that
"all" general aviation aircraft have Nicopress sleeves is unfamiliar with
Cessna aircraft.
> Speaking of cable noise. Has anyone ever figured out a good way to stop
that sound
> that reminds me more of a sailboat mast than an aircraft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story |
Long winded Lar in full cry. Sorry for the length of this, but it makes =
a good story, even if at my expense.
I finally found the problem causing Vamoose' oil leak, and it's turning =
out to be a bear to fix. In a nutshell, a machined piece is held onto =
the end of the crankshaft with four 8mm dowel pins, and four 3/8" =
hardened cap screws. This one goes into the engine's rear oil seal. A =
2nd piece with the splines for the output shaft bolts onto that with six =
1/4" AN bolts, and clamps the flex plate for the starter.=20
The 3/8" cap screws didn't hold torque, and were loose when I =
dis-assembled the parts. One dowel pin had broken in half. Apparently =
the six 1/4" bolts had bottomed out just as they were coming tight, and =
all had seemed well, but all 6 were broken off about 1/4" into the =
threads. Safety wire on those was fine. Getting the broken stubs out =
was....interesting. They just grinned at an easy-out. The oil seal had =
a tear in it. The engine had only run for about 5 or 10 minutes before =
it started leaking the 1st time. All subsequent runs were made without =
the prop, so's to see what was happening without getting my head knocked =
off. Torque out of that engine must be awesome. =20
Original dowel pins are .314" (8mm) dia. x .620" long. There are =
oversize pins available that are .343" x .756, and I want to use these =
for more shear strength but I've got to get the original pins out, and =
they're a press fit. OK, 3 of them I drilled and tapped and used a =
home-made slide hammer and yanked them out. No problem.....not too =
much....that a little creative language didn't take care of. The 4th =
one - the broken one - is hardened somewhat. Using the same pilot bit =
as on the others, it went about 1/4" into that broken pin before =
dulling. I have no idea what kind of bit it was. Kinda grey/shiny. I =
then used every small bit I owned trying to drill deeper into that =
thing. Not a chance. Ruined every one of them. Went to Lowe's today =
and bought 1/2 doz. assorted bits - cobalt, titanium, etc., etc. Even a =
Hitachi one that claims to "last twice as long as others." None of them =
even touched it. Now, the big question - what can I use to drill that =
pin out of there ?? If I can't tap threads into it after drilling, (and =
I'll be very careful, believe me) I'll hafta go larger and drill it out =
completely. What kind of bits will do this job ?? I know something =
can, cause that small pilot bit went in 1/4". Help ! ! !
For re-assembly - I've already thoroughly cleaned the 3/8" threads, male =
and female, and will loctite them this time. Suggestions for which =
version of loctite to use would be welcome. I've drilled and tapped 6 =
more holes in the 2nd part, for a total of twelve 1/4" AN bolts. They =
came in from A/C Spruce yesterday. I drilled .2" (2/10ths) into the =
threads so's to put the shank of the bolts in shear rather than the =
threads as had been done. Also drilled and tapped them deeper to =
eliminate any possibility of bottoming again.
I guess this has all been for the better, for all the frustration, =
because it would certainly have failed completely in a very short time =
in the air. I never thought to even check it out, because the oil was =
clearly leaking from the input shaft of the re-drive on prior runs. =
Only after installing the Speedi-Sleeve did that leak dry up and stop =
masking this 2nd one. What a raging pain in the neck........but at =
least I've got a solution in sight now - if I can get that 4th dowel pin =
out of there. Lar.=20
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story |
In a message dated 4/26/2006 10:25:39 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
biglar(at)gogittum.com writes:
Now, the big question - what can I use to drill that =
pin out of there ??
Larry,
I read about a method, somewhere a long time ago, that will permit one to
drill through hard material, even spring steel. The trick is to use a VERY
slow drill speed, along with VERY high pressure. Using a drill press would be
the best way, but if that is not possible, perhaps you could enlist the help
of some beefy friends to assist you in using a handheld drill motor.
Good luck,
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story |
| From: | "jadamson" <j-adamson(at)tamu.edu> |
> Now, the big question - what can I use to drill that =
> pin out of there ?? If I can't tap threads into it after drilling, (and =
> I'll be very careful, believe me) I'll hafta go larger and drill it out =
> completely. What kind of bits will do this job ?? I know something =
> can, cause that small pilot bit went in 1/4". Help ! ! !
Hmm, trying to visualize & am thinking about some numbers here. The dowel pin
is 0.620" long but it's broken off in the machined piece. So say half of the
pin is left inside (~ 0.310" stuck). And you've drilled into it 1/4", so you're
not far from the end of the pin.
If I'm on track so far, seems like the best course - assuming you didn't break
the bit off in the pilot hole - is simply to be patient & keep looking for better
quality bits. I'd try to find a good tool supply place .. Lowe's is my Sunday
afternoon last resort. Where I live, a local welding supply place has all
kinds of quality tools.
If you did break the bit off in the pin, then a couple of other thoughts that come
to mind are:
a) If the pin broke off fairly flush with - or above - the surface it's stuck in,
would it be possible to weld a head onto it? Have seen that done on occasion.
8mm's pretty small but might still be do-able.
b) Have you tried applying mild heat and/or cold to the parts? Obviously want
to be careful here so as not to introduce new problems.
Good luck!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=30995#30995
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story |
| From: | "biglar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
Nope, the broken piece is in the crankshaft, and, thankfully, I was careful and
didn't break off a drill bit. I tried heating the 1st one I pulled, but didn't
notice any difference, and don't really like to heat that component. I'm not
crazy about Lowe's myself, but figured brands like Bosch, DeWalt, etc., would
be the same in any store. I like the welding shop idea, I'll try it tomorrow.
Thanks.
Lar.
--------
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk IIIC
"Vamoose"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31001#31001
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/drive1j_139.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story |
In a message dated 4/26/2006 11:06:51 P.M. Central Standard Time,
biglar(at)gogittum.com writes:
I like the welding shop idea, I'll try it tomorrow. Thanks.
Lar.
Lar,
If you can find a someone with a tig machine he will be more likely to have
success in tacking only where it needs to go, verses mig or stick
welding.With tig the welder has more precise control than mig or stick.
Ed Do Not Archieve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story |
Lar
I had a similar problem drilling thru the bellcrank on my tail wheel. Just
couldn't get the bit to even scratch the surface. I went to a tool store
called Production Tool and bought a drill bit for hardened steel. It just
about pulled its self thru the steel. The guy that sold it to me said to be
careful with the bit because it was very brittle. Seems like he said it
would shatter if dropped on a hard surface. It was a bit pricey but well
worth the aggravation it saved.
Hope this helps.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "biglar" <biglar(at)gogittum.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 12:05 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story |
The slow turning drill at high pressure is good advice, as is the
special bit. In addition a little bit of "tap magic" will help the
bit take a bite.
-BB
On 26, Apr 2006, at 10:22 PM, Larry Bourne wrote:
>
> Long winded Lar in full cry. Sorry for the length of this, but it
> makes =
> a good story, even if at my expense.
>
> I finally found the problem causing Vamoose' oil leak, and it's
> turning =
> out to be a bear to fix. In a nutshell, a machined piece is held onto
> =
> the end of the crankshaft with four 8mm dowel pins, and four 3/8" =
> hardened cap screws. This one goes into the engine's rear oil seal.
> A =
> 2nd piece with the splines for the output shaft bolts onto that with
> six =
> 1/4" AN bolts, and clamps the flex plate for the starter.=20
>
> The 3/8" cap screws didn't hold torque, and were loose when I =
> dis-assembled the parts. One dowel pin had broken in half.
> Apparently =
> the six 1/4" bolts had bottomed out just as they were coming tight,
> and =
> all had seemed well, but all 6 were broken off about 1/4" into the =
> threads. Safety wire on those was fine. Getting the broken stubs out
> =
> was....interesting. They just grinned at an easy-out. The oil seal
> had =
> a tear in it. The engine had only run for about 5 or 10 minutes
> before =
> it started leaking the 1st time. All subsequent runs were made
> without =
> the prop, so's to see what was happening without getting my head
> knocked =
> off. Torque out of that engine must be awesome. =20
>
> Original dowel pins are .314" (8mm) dia. x .620" long. There are =
> oversize pins available that are .343" x .756, and I want to use these
> =
> for more shear strength but I've got to get the original pins out, and
> =
> they're a press fit. OK, 3 of them I drilled and tapped and used a =
> home-made slide hammer and yanked them out. No problem.....not too =
> much....that a little creative language didn't take care of. The 4th =
> one - the broken one - is hardened somewhat. Using the same pilot bit
> =
> as on the others, it went about 1/4" into that broken pin before =
> dulling. I have no idea what kind of bit it was. Kinda grey/shiny.
> I =
> then used every small bit I owned trying to drill deeper into that =
> thing. Not a chance. Ruined every one of them. Went to Lowe's today
> =
> and bought 1/2 doz. assorted bits - cobalt, titanium, etc., etc. Even
> a =
> Hitachi one that claims to "last twice as long as others." None of
> them =
> even touched it. Now, the big question - what can I use to drill that
> =
> pin out of there ?? If I can't tap threads into it after drilling,
> (and =
> I'll be very careful, believe me) I'll hafta go larger and drill it
> out =
> completely. What kind of bits will do this job ?? I know something =
> can, cause that small pilot bit went in 1/4". Help ! ! !
>
> For re-assembly - I've already thoroughly cleaned the 3/8" threads,
> male =
> and female, and will loctite them this time. Suggestions for which =
> version of loctite to use would be welcome. I've drilled and tapped 6
> =
> more holes in the 2nd part, for a total of twelve 1/4" AN bolts. They
> =
> came in from A/C Spruce yesterday. I drilled .2" (2/10ths) into the =
> threads so's to put the shank of the bolts in shear rather than the =
> threads as had been done. Also drilled and tapped them deeper to =
> eliminate any possibility of bottoming again.
>
> I guess this has all been for the better, for all the frustration, =
> because it would certainly have failed completely in a very short time
> =
> in the air. I never thought to even check it out, because the oil was
> =
> clearly leaking from the input shaft of the re-drive on prior runs. =
> Only after installing the Speedi-Sleeve did that leak dry up and stop =
> masking this 2nd one. What a raging pain in the neck........but at =
> least I've got a solution in sight now - if I can get that 4th dowel
> pin =
> out of there. Lar.=20
>
> Larry Bourne
> Palm Springs, CA
> Building Kolb Mk III
> N78LB Vamoose
> www.gogittum.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Swartz" <terry(at)juliaswartz.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story |
Larry
If you can't use heat maybe you could try cold. Get some liquid nitrogen, it
boils at -325F degrees. Sounds dangerous but really isn't. I used to
distribute bull semen for artificial insemination of cows and we used liquid
nitrogen by the gallons. We bought it at the local welding supply where they
sell oxygen and acetylene and transported it vacuum insulated storage tanks.
For very small quantities you could use a thermos, vacuum insulated type,
preferably stainless steel, but the glass type will work for transporting.
You will have to use it right away as it will boil away in about 24 hours.
Chilling the pin may be the challenge. I removed all warts from family and
friends by dipping a drift punch in the nitrogen until it was chilled, then
holding the punch on a wart for just a few seconds until frozen. The warts
then fell of in a couple days. This process may work for you. I've used it
for other press fit applications and it worked very well. Liquid nitrogen
can be dipped with a plastic pitcher and poured but it will be boiling
continuously in the pitcher. Of course avoid contact with skin or you will
have instant frost bite. I don't recall the price, maybe $1.00 per gallon.
Another source would be your local artificial inseminator, check yellow
pages. Your local welding supply may not be interested in filling a thermos.
Good luck
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of biglar
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 12:05 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story
Nope, the broken piece is in the crankshaft, and, thankfully, I was careful
and didn't break off a drill bit. I tried heating the 1st one I pulled, but
didn't notice any difference, and don't really like to heat that component.
I'm not crazy about Lowe's myself, but figured brands like Bosch, DeWalt,
etc., would be the same in any store. I like the welding shop idea, I'll
try it tomorrow. Thanks.
Lar.
--------
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk IIIC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Alexander" <gtalexander(at)att.net> |
MAY BE A DUPLICATE RESPONSE... but anyway
Although nico sleeves weren't involved, from a personal experience, I would like
to support what Ted said about heating the cable.
In my case, the throttle cable was heated and solder applied to keep it from slipping
through the connector to the throttle lever. The good news is that it
snapped, on the ground, as part of my regular preflight. (Open the throttle to
full and close it listening for the infamous "click" of the slides as they return
home. They certainly clicked this time when the cable let go and they went
home in a hurry!)
On examination, there was noticeable discoloration from the point that was soldered,
back about 1". The general consensus, of those that examined it, was that
the break was caused by the effect on the cable of the heat application. (The
failure may have been accelerated by the humid conditions here in FL.) The
cable actually rusted through. Miffed that I didn't see the rust before it
broke. Some of the discoloration/rust protruded from the connector enough to
be seen. Conceptually a good idea, with not so good results.
tc1917(at)hughes.net wrote:
> I would like to add something to the 'solder the end of the cable to keep it
> from slipping through the nico' discussion.
>
> If you heat a steel/SS cable even to solder it, it seems to lose its ability
to flex and will become brittle and break upon bending.
--------
George Alexander
http://gtalexander.home.att.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31051#31051
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story |
I didn't, and can't use my drill press. The engine is on the plane. That
drill bit yesterday walked right into it........for a while, so I know it's
possible................?? I'm familiar with, and did try, the slow speed,
high pressure idea. Thanks. Lar. Do not
Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2006 8:40 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story
>
>
> In a message dated 4/26/2006 10:25:39 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> biglar(at)gogittum.com writes:
>
> Now, the big question - what can I use to drill that =
> pin out of there ??
>
>
> Larry,
>
> I read about a method, somewhere a long time ago, that will permit one to
> drill through hard material, even spring steel. The trick is to use a
> VERY
> slow drill speed, along with VERY high pressure. Using a drill press
> would be
> the best way, but if that is not possible, perhaps you could enlist the
> help
> of some beefy friends to assist you in using a handheld drill motor.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Bill Varnes
> Original Kolb FireStar
> Audubon NJ
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
I'm coming into this late, and don't want to step on any toes, but I've had
considerable experience with soldering, and some with cables. Here's a few
thoughts.............
As Chief Engineer of the hotel I work at, an un-enviable part of my job is
to teach others some of my skills, one of which is soft soldering. (I also
teach them silver soldering and gas welding, but that's another ulcer
building story)
Soft solder melts easily, at something around (I think) 500 F., just barely
enuf to make the metal change color. Almost without exception, even with
practise, almost everyone will heat the metal too much. Far too much. My
guys drive me crazy with this. They'll burn the flux almost every time,
even with me telling them, "Enuf, Enuf ! ! !" Practise on copper tubing.
Steel wool, wire brush, or emery cloth it till shiny - both male and female
surfaces. ALL surface contaminants MUST be removed. Coat the surfaces
lightly with a flux. Heat the joint gently with a propane or mapp torch in
the area you want the solder to flow to. It will flow TO the heat. As the
area warms up, start scratching the surface with the solder stick. Soon it
will start to leave streaks of silver on the surface. Just a little more,
and the solder will suddenly flow into the joint. STOP HEATING at this
point. A little more - repeat, a little more - heat and solder will smooth
and fill the joint. If the flux turns black, you got it too hot and you
will NOT make the solder stick. It'll just make beads. Take it apart and
start over.
OK, wire..........much tougher, but do-able. I've found it best to
carefully unwrap the strands and clean them with a solvent, even steel wool
them, re-wrap them, then flux and solder. Great care must be taken, since
individual wires will heat almost instantly and others won't. Some will
glow red hot quickly, and then won't take the solder. I've done this
successfully - sometimes - on motorcycle cables, and other times not. Many
factory cables are (or at least were, in my day) soldered. Would I trust
this on my airplane ?? Nope. Too iffy for my skill level. Properly done,
yah, probably. Once again, almost everyone uses far too much heat, which is
what ruins the cable. Take it easy. Clean parts are everything.
When I was a logger, we'd make up choker cables on the spot by sliding the
bell over the cable, then inserting a tapered, fluted steel wedge into the
end of the cable to spread the strands. Then smack the bell over the spread
strands at the end and they were locked solid. Strong ?? Yah, they'd take
the slam of a D6 Cat hitting the end of them when hooked to a tree to be
skidded to a landing, and do it repeatedly, day after day. Do they make
small enuf bells and wedges to fit these small cables ?? I dunno. Never
seen one, but a fairly handy person may be able to make one. Maybe solder
it in ?? :-) Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Alexander" <gtalexander(at)att.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 5:06 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: soldering
>
> MAY BE A DUPLICATE RESPONSE... but anyway
>
>
> Although nico sleeves weren't involved, from a personal experience, I
> would like to support what Ted said about heating the cable.
>
> In my case, the throttle cable was heated and solder applied to keep it
> from slipping through the connector to the throttle lever. The good news
> is that it snapped, on the ground, as part of my regular preflight. (Open
> the throttle to full and close it listening for the infamous "click" of
> the slides as they return home. They certainly clicked this time when the
> cable let go and they went home in a hurry!)
>
> On examination, there was noticeable discoloration from the point that was
> soldered, back about 1". The general consensus, of those that examined
> it, was that the break was caused by the effect on the cable of the heat
> application. (The failure may have been accelerated by the humid
> conditions here in FL.) The cable actually rusted through.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
I've had extremely good luck with the throttle cables that come with
Kolb Kits. Never had to solder one.
KISS (keep it simple)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
Kolbers,
I have had good luck with tandem bicycle de railer cables. The are super
long, inexpensive, and can be found with a Teflon coating. I believe they
are a little smaller in diameter than the Kolb throttle cables. You have to
reduce the diameter of the lead bead so that it will fit into the throttle
slide. It may be possible to drill out the retaining hole to accept the
non-modified bead.
I have had more problems with the other end. I clip them off square and try
to not frazzle them. Then I use a soldering iron and rosin core solder to
solder the cut end cable strands together. After this is done, I wick a
drop of crazy glue up next to the soldered end. This stabilizes the cut end
so that one can pull the cable for cleaning and re-lubrication, and
re-insert the cable with little trouble. Before I did this, the frazzled
end made it very difficult the thread the cable from the engine to the
throttle and to get the end in the small clevis hole.
I believe using an iron helps with heat control so that you do not over heat
the cable. I do not believe one should use acid flux, as it likes moisture
and will keep eating away at the metal over a period of time.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 4/27/2006 8:08:14 AM Eastern Standard Time,
gtalexander(at)att.net writes:
On examination, there was noticeable discoloration from the point that was
soldered, back about 1". The general consensus, of those that examined it, was
that the break was caused by the effect on the cable of the heat application.
(The failure may have been accelerated by the humid conditions here in FL.)
The cable actually rusted through. Miffed that I didn't see the rust before
it broke. Some of the discoloration/rust protruded from the connector enough
to be seen. Conceptually a good idea, with not so good results.
No expert here, but to solder the cable, you may apply flux or use acid core
solder. When the cable is heated, the flux migrates up the cable. That acid
or flux is corrosive to steel.
Perhaps if rosin core solder was used.....
Howard Shackleford
FS II
SC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
.....but at =
least I've got a solution in sight now - if I can get that 4th dowel pin =
out of there. Lar.=20
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I would try and find a diamond bit and put it in a dremel I am sure the
material is so hard that you wont be able to thread it. You could take
the diamond bit and slowly enlarge the hole to the edge of the pin and then
collapse the pin and pull it out. If you could get a small mist of water,
or even rubbing alcohol you could keep the bit and piece you are working on
cool.
As to the locktite, red or blue should work on the bolts. As to going
from 6 to 12 bolts,,, would 6, inch dowel pins and 6 AN bolts be
stronger in sheer than the 12 AN bolts. You may need to check the charts
on sheer for the AN bolds vs. the dowel pins. Unless you feel you need more
tension in addition to the additional sheer. For setting the dowel pins
the green locktite 648 was listed for setting press fit parts.
Boyd Y
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Noyer <a58r(at)verizon.net> |
hello, test 1, 2, 3,
regards,
Bob N.
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George E. Myers Jr." <gmyers(at)grandecom.net> |
=0D
=0D
>end of the cable to spread the strands. Then smack the bell over the
spread=0D
>strands at the end and they were locked solid. Strong ?? Yah, they'd t=
ake=0D
=0D
Use a soldering iron. The kind that goes on a propane torch works great.
Keep the flame small & the iron clean & tinned. Use only resin for flux.
Have the cable ends secured in an upright condition & slightly spread. Wi=
pe
a very small amount of flux on the ends. Put the solder on the tip & let =
the
solder heat the strands. Don't touch them with the iron. The solder will
heat & tin the strands. Apply the solder to the iron, not the cable. Clea=
n
thoroughly with alcohol then rub in grease. woiks liika charm.=0D
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Noyer <a58r(at)verizon.net> |
test3
regards,
Bob N.
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George E. Myers Jr." <gmyers(at)grandecom.net> |
maybe this is easier to read
>end of the cable to spread the strands. Then smack the bell over the spread
>strands at the end and they were locked solid. Strong ?? Yah, they'd take
Use a soldering iron. The kind that goes on a propane torch works great.
Keep the flame small & the iron clean & tinned. Use only resin for flux.
Have the cable ends secured in an upright condition & slightly spread. Wipe
a very small amount of flux on the ends. Put the solder on the tip & let the
solder heat the strands. Don't touch them with the iron. The solder will
heat & tin the strands. Apply the solder to the iron, not the cable. Clean
thoroughly with alcohol then rub in grease. woiks liika charm.
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drill Dilemma - Long Winded Story |
| From: | "jadamson" <j-adamson(at)tamu.edu> |
jr(at)rometool.com wrote:
> .....use a short piece of steel
> tubing, alittle less in diameter than the dowel or screw, position the
> end of the tubing on the broken dowel and using a stick welder and a
> small welding rod, reach through the tubing with the welding rod and
> puddle weld the tube to the dowel and ...
>
> ---
Now that's clever! Really adds a nice refinement to the welding idea, especially
when the break is down in the threads.
John A
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31182#31182
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Update on Drill Dilemma |
Thanks to everybody for your thoughts and suggestions. I talked to a =
welder today and he's going to come by Sat. morning to weld the slide =
hammer rod to the broken dowel. Tonight, when I got home from work I =
lit up my small oxy/acetylene outfit and heated that dowel red hot and =
let it cool naturally. Hoped it'd take some of the hardness out and =
leave it annealed. Nope. No difference, just ruined another bit, so =
I'll wait for the welder.
Rick, I agree with you. There's no question that concern, even =
subconsciously, about the safety of that drive has been a part of my =
foot-dragging. (could laziness be another ??) In any case, I'm waiting =
for some parts, so it should be back together next week sometime and =
I'll run it up again. If I have more problems with it, it'll go in the =
trash. As you say, there comes a time.......even for people like =
Stub-Bourne to call 'er a day and move on. BTW, originally the idea was =
that the little bit of slack in the chain would bell out at speed and =
give a measure of shock absorption. Prob'ly not, but we'll see. =
Lar.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Drilling out broken dowel |
Larry, Have you tried a carbide tipped masonry drill? If your pilot hole is
centered, a 1/4" bit sounds like the ticket. I've used them to drill out
high speed steel broken taps. Dowel pins are tough because they're inductio=
n
case hardened. After you get through the first .030" or so they're soft
underneath. sounds like your very near breaking though.
Incidentally, my experience is that Bosch drills are junk. I went through
four of them trying to drill out a single steel pop rivet. I went back to
Lowe's (closest to the hangar) got a Hitachi bit and drilled out over 20
rivets and it was still going strong.
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling out broken dowel |
Thanks, Richard. Already tried the Hitachi, and no joy. Do
not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2006 6:32 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Drilling out broken dowel
>
> Larry, Have you tried a carbide tipped masonry drill? If your pilot hole
> is
> centered, a 1/4" bit sounds like the ticket. I've used them to drill out
> high speed steel broken taps. Dowel pins are tough because they're
> inductio=
> n
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Frantz <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
Anyone out there have a practical idea on how to removes the ethanol
from gas or does it have to be re-refined through a "cracker" to
eliminate it. Wish I had paid more attention in chemistry class!!!!
Just asking! Seems like if they can add it there should be a way to
remove it.
Terry - FireFly #95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jratcli256(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Drilling hard material (Crankshaft Bolts) |
Larry,
I believe the drill bits being refered to are carbide bits.
The proper bit works great. Use a machinists bit. They are generally short (because
they are very brittle). Don't use the ones with carbide tips braised on (Masonry
type bits) They are alot cheaper but if you break them off in the hole
you've got a big problem. They are also not very accurate in size.
They work best in a drill press or milling machine because you have better control
of side loading and pressure (especially when breaking through the material
at the end of the hole).
Remember no side load if possible and just enough pressure to keep it cutting.
Don't let the bit catch as it breaks thru. Lighten the pressure. Carbides can
be run at higher speeds then high speed bits which helps at the break thru point.
Also these bits are good for drilling thru material that has been heat hardened
as in welding near-by or heated for bending.
Hope this helps.
John Ratcliffe jratcli256(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Noyer <a58r(at)verizon.net> |
Yep, only $11,050 fer 80 horses!
regards,
Bob N.
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic" <vicw(at)vcn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 04/27/06 |
For soldering cables I made a solder pot out of 3/4 inch diameter pipe about
1 inch long welded to a flat piece of steel. Make it leak proof. I filled
it with silver solder and I heat it up with a propane torch until the solder
is liquid. I dip the cable end in silver solder flux then dip it in the
molten solder for about 30 seconds. Pull the cable out and tap the end on
the solder pot to remove excess. When the joint cools dip it in clear
polyurethane to seal it from moisture. Takes longer to describe the process
than do the process.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Checkout?...I doan need no stinking...... |
| From: | "Ralph Hoover" <flht99reh(at)columbus.rr.com> |
beauford,
Then ther is the other side of the fence (track). Me! I have spent about 15 hours
over 8 months learning how to fly a "flying Log (Challenger). Since I am 6'-1"
and 230 # and my instructor is 6'-0" and weighs 200# and we only put 5 gal
in the tank, we come mighty close to the max for the log on a 1,000 foot strip
for a newby. I gave up the scooter , the weather is warm, I would be, should
be, could be, riding ....BUT NOOOOOOOOO!
I am waiting for calm, cool, evenings and weekends to get the landing part down
pat. Oh forsooth! If nothing else to this point, i have : new wiring, new gauges,
electric fuel pump as well as mechanical, new full windsheid, did I mention
new wiring and have learned to take, off fly and almost land. And have gained
a new respect for anyone that can operate a motorcycle on ice 1,000 feet off
the ground! Oh, I didn't mention, but it is important...I have learned P A T
I E N T S! Well, almost. Then I begin to loose interest and then, I see some
of these pictures of youz guys flying and get re-invigorated. Go figure!
Ohio Ralph...in need of a fix or a longer field!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31437#31437
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb/Harley/0-200 |
| From: | "jadamson" <j-adamson(at)tamu.edu> |
Here's a link to the company that seems to be the forerunner of the Skyray link referred to in another post: http://www.hog-air.com/hogindex.htm
He used to show some performance specs but I couldn't find 'em since Skyray's now
in the picture. As I recall, though, he was running the engine at a fairly
high RPM (3500+) to get the good HP/Torque values. Which is a lot higher than
I run on the highway in my Geezer Glide.
HD's Evo and TwinCam engines are a heckuva lot more reliable than the Shovels (still
the best sounding HD engine, IMO). And, the reduction drive is no more
than the standard HD primary case turned vertical. Plus fuel injection, if you
want it. On the downside, I'm not sure if dual ignition is available or not.
As for weight. gotta be sure we're comparing apples to apples. 205 lbs all up,
including mount, etc. Comparing to the Corvair (and 0-200) and to quote William
Wynne (FlyCorvair.com), "I have a lot of data that shows the Corvair has an
installed flying weight of about 225-230 lbs. .... This is slightly below the
installed weight of a typical O-200 Continental.".
For the cost difference, "user base" and experience with the engine, I'm liking
the VW more & more.
Just my 2 pesos' worth to add to the confusion ...
John A
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31498#31498
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Update on Drill Dilemma |
Defeat ?? Whazzat ?? Nope........redirection, but probably not to a 912.
I'd like to have one, but just can't afford one. That redrive does get one
more chance, and, far as I know, the engine is just fine. Do
not Archive.
Larry Bourne
Palm Springs, CA
Building Kolb Mk III
N78LB Vamoose
www.gogittum.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 12:03 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Update on Drill Dilemma
>
>
> Big Lar wrote: << If I have more problems with it, it'll go in the
> trash.
> As you say, there comes a time.......>>>
>
> Do my ears deceive me? Is Larry actually considering thoughts of DEFEAT
> regarding the vee dub on Vamoose?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Wings for Sale/Stalling on short final |
| I was glad to hear Ralph is OK. One more testimonial for the
crashworthy
| design of these Kolb cages.
|
| Dennis Kirby
| Mark-III, 912, Powerfin
| New Mexico
Again, Dennis, ya got that right.
Another testimonial that Kolbs do not fly below stall speed, with or
without factoring in the tree line, mysterious phantom winds, and poor
pilotage.
Landing at 25 feet AGL will also break your mkIII. How do I know?
Well........really I don't know about 25 feet, but I do know 30 feet
will wipe the landing gear off the bottom of my mkIII, knock the
glasses off my nose and out from under David Clark ear cups, and put
big black and blue marks on the bottom of my thighs from the forward
seat tube, and contusions on my skinny shins from the bottom of the
instrument panel. I had my flaps at 20 degrees. Maybe that is why my
mkIII did not get as much damage as Ralph's. I do know that pilotage
has nothing to do with final results, because once the mkIII stalls at
25 feet, the pilot becomes an instant passenger. hehehe Voice of
experience. ;-)
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Noel Bouchard <noelbou(at)cam.org> |
| Subject: | A special video for John Hauck ... |
Hello John & group !
I tought about you John, when seeing this fantastic chopper video ...
I hope you will enjoy it ...
http://www.alexisparkinn.com/photogallery/Videos/2006-2-13_altitudefive.wmv
Good flying all !
Nol
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A special video for John Hauck ... |
|
http://www.alexisparkinn.com/photogallery/Videos/2006-2-13_altitudefive.wmv
|
| Good flying all !
|
| Nol
That's a good one. Enjoyed it.
Do they really fly those helicopters like that? ;-)
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Bigelow" <up_country(at)hotmail.com> |
> Anyone out there have a practical idea on how to removes the ethanol
> from gas
One way I've heard suggested (but haven't tried) is to take advantage of ethanol's
affinity for water. Add water to the mixture and agitate it. Most of the
ethanol will come out of solution (mixes with the water), and when the mixture
settles down, the apparent amount of water will have increased by the amount
of ethanol that mixed with the water. Pour off the gas, and you should have
very little ethanol left in the mixture.
The octane of the gas will be less than the gas/ethanol mixture, so if you do this
with 87 octane E-10, the remaining gas will be less than 87 octane.
--------
Dave Bigelow
Kamuela, Hawaii
FS2, Rotax 503 DCDI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31577#31577
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dan Johnson...a repeat of mine! |
In a message dated 4/8/2006 1:01:07 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
Blumax008(at)aol.com writes:
Guess what? It did. Things can happen so easily.
Guess what? I don't put my camera bag there anymore.
Bill Catalina
Florida
put something around your switches so they can not be bumped..... ask me why
I am so adamant on this point
George Randolph
Firestar driver from The Villages, Fl
Rotax 447, 3 blade Ivo, KX, 1991
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
Paul/All
The Harley engine looks neat and it sure would sound nice but it isn't a
whole lot less than a 912.
The issues I would be concerned about would be vibrations. Harleys are known
to be big time vibrators already but you would have to add in the vibrations
from the interaction of the engine and the redrive. I have the same type of
redrive on my smooth running VW but the power pulses set up a harmonic
vibration that I have had to deal with. I can't even imagine what that
80-100+ V twin thumper would create in harmonic vibrations.What would it do
to a airframe? Check out the lengths Valley Engineering have had to go
through to tame the vibrations from their smooth running Generac V twin.
http://www.culverprops.com/index.php
Also that redrive is kind of tall. You would have to do some MAJOR work on
the cage to mount the engine low enough to avoid a high thrust line.
My $.02 worth
Rick Neilsen
Flying Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <paulpetty(at)hughes.net>
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 11:52 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb/Harley
>
> Hey guys,
>
> Check this out. I learned this morning that a man has ordered a Kolb =
> Mark 3 x-tra quick build kit and is having it shipped to these guys>>> =
> http://www.skyray.us/ to have a Harley engine mounted on it!=20
> This should be a very interesting project. I talked with Brett ay skyray =
> and he is very excited about it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb/Harley/0-200 |
I tried to talk to Kolb about a 0-200 or some other GA engine a few years
ago. All they would say is "way too heavy". My VW is something like 170 +or-
10 pounds or a whole lot less than a 0-200 or Corvair and I think the VW
it's kind of at the limit for the big Kolbs.
Again my $.02
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "jadamson" <j-adamson(at)tamu.edu>
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2006 7:52 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb/Harley/0-200
>
> As for weight. gotta be sure we're comparing apples to apples. 205 lbs
> all up, including mount, etc. Comparing to the Corvair (and 0-200) and to
> quote William Wynne (FlyCorvair.com), "I have a lot of data that shows the
> Corvair has an installed flying weight of about 225-230 lbs. .... This is
> slightly below the installed weight of a typical O-200 Continental.".
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fiberglass Gear Legs |
| From: | "KenB" <kvbeaupre(at)hotmail.com> |
Hello,
I had an older Mk. II Twinstar with fiberglass gear legs which worked out very
well. I now have a Firefly which I operate from a rough field. Does anyone have
a Firefly with fiberglass gear legs?
Thanks,
Ken
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31657#31657
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Hoover" <flht99reh(at)columbus.rr.com> |
I need to respond to the Harley vibration induced by the manufacturer. Which, by
the way, when Honda was making their look alike, sound alike they were told
that in order to get that potato-potato sound they had to make their engine much
more inefficient, they laughed and looked at each other. Sure enough, until
they put the crank pin where they put it, nobody wanted it. It didn't shake like
the Harley nor did it (then or now) sound like a Harley to the tuned trained
ear.
However, Harley took out the bouncing front fork that was their trademark and counterbalanced
the engine. Now, unfortunately you can look out both mirrors and
see the item coming up on you! Alas...No vibration. Good for airplanes and boats,
bad for real men and the specifically designed external heart pump or vibra-lounger
that we once knew and coveted. The last Harley I rode for 3 hours
didn't cause not even one of my crowns or fillings to come loose. Where's the
thrill in riding something like that?
And to the watching parts and pieces fall off, which the pans, shovels, knuckles
and evo's were famous for, the new engines (over 60,000 miles on mine) still,
hold together. Has to be the locktite!
No longer supporting the dental industry Ralph of Ohio.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31683#31683
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
Locktite 242, Ralph, is the miracle us Vibraglide riders prayed for. 14
years since I put my Shovel back together with it and I've never lost a
part. The tingling butt, though is unconquerable. I suppose I could get the
V Rod I ache for (word of warning, never take one for a test drive,
especially if you have a heavy fist), but it would probably develop a Vne
higher than the Mk III. No crazy drivers in the sky, okay, a lot fewer.
On 4/29/06, Ralph Hoover wrote:
>
m
> >
>
> I need to respond to the Harley vibration induced by the manufacturer.
> Which, by the way, when Honda was making their look alike, sound alike th=
ey
> were told that in order to get that potato-potato sound they had to make
> their engine much more inefficient, they laughed and looked at each other=
.
> Sure enough, until they put the crank pin where they put it, nobody wante=
d
> it. It didn't shake like the Harley nor did it (then or now) sound like a
> Harley to the tuned trained ear.
>
> However, Harley took out the bouncing front fork that was their trademark
> and counterbalanced the engine. Now, unfortunately you can look out both
> mirrors and see the item coming up on you! Alas...No vibration. Good for
> airplanes and boats, bad for real men and the specifically designed exter=
nal
> heart pump or vibra-lounger that we once knew and coveted. The last Harle=
y I
> rode for 3 hours didn't cause not even one of my crowns or fillings to co=
me
> loose. Where's the thrill in riding something like that?
>
> And to the watching parts and pieces fall off, which the pans, shovels,
> knuckles and evo's were famous for, the new engines (over 60,000 miles on
> mine) still, hold together. Has to be the locktite!
>
> No longer supporting the dental industry Ralph of Ohio.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D31683#31683
>
>
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Deckard" <mustangsally(at)semo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Gear Legs |
I was looking at that just today. I have some solid rod left from when I
converted my Challenger to fiberglass gear. The rod I have is just a bit
smaller than the factory legs. I am not to comfortable about turning the
fiberglass rod down small enough to fit in the axle cuffs. I would want to
put larger cuffs on the axles to fit over the fiberglass rod. I may do this
when I get to that point. I have to either do this or buy new legs. Mine was
the one that had the leg expoxyed in the sockets.
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: "KenB" <kvbeaupre(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 1:29 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Fiberglass Gear Legs
>
> Hello,
> I had an older Mk. II Twinstar with fiberglass gear legs which worked out
> very well. I now have a Firefly which I operate from a rough field. Does
> anyone have a Firefly with fiberglass gear legs?
> Thanks,
> Ken
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31657#31657
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Gear Legs |
Have not been following this thread but I did play around with gear legs
some years ago. I bent the original gear during a dead stick landing for fun
from altitude, at that time I still thought I might be able to thermal the Kolb.
Just as I was committed to the flare the grass cutter drove the tractor
onto the runway and the avoidance was interesting. I commandeered some titanium
rod for the legs and made new axle sockets. First landing was in front of a
crowd at a fly in. Titanium is real springy and I bounced and bounced and
bounced, If the plane had been brown they would have thought I was a Kangaroo.
Next were steel tapered legs, turned out heavy but usable. I finished up with
straight un- tapered 7075 aluminum rod from Wicks. It has been the perfect
gear material for me for over 8 years.
Dick C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)inebraska.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Gear Legs |
www.mgs4u.com
J.D. Stewart
UltraFun AirSports, LLC
www.ultrafunairsports.com
Titan Aircraft E-mail list
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Titanaircraft/
Challenger E-mail list
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/FlyChallenger/
>
>
> There's a website out there that has alot of Fiberglass rods in
> alot of sizes
> I can't find it....I got it from somebody on this list...Hauck maybe???
>
> Gotta Fly...
> Mike in MN
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Miles <ultrastarrick(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | ultrastar flight |
hello all I have finished with my rebuild of the ultrastar and begane taxy tests
to day. The test whent well and I moved to the runway and whent to the high
speed test next thing you know I am 20 ft up and loving it droped the power down
to about 4000 and it seteld nice and soft on the runway. ops I did this Hight
speed test about 8 times before the wind picked up..
Rick Milew
ultrastar Ca.
---------------------------------
Get amazing travel prices for air and hotel in one click on Yahoo! FareChase
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Checkout?...I doan need no stinking...... |
I like your analysis Pat.
I'd add "look at the far end of the runway" right before "Keep the nose off
the runway.">>
Thanks, I am sure you are right but I have never consciously been able to do
that. As I am still here perhaps I do it unconsciously?
Cheers
Pat
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Dangerous or just scary |
<>
Hi Rick,
not to mention the fact that if the diameter of the cables had been
increased then then the diameter of the pulleys should have been increased
also.
Good advice. Dont fix it unless you are aware of the ramifications,
especially if it aint broke !
Cheers
Pat
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ron wehba" <rwehba(at)pegasusbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: ultrastar flight |
well lets see it?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Miles" <ultrastarrick(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 29, 2006 9:21 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: ultrastar flight
>
> hello all I have finished with my rebuild of the ultrastar and begane taxy
> tests to day. The test whent well and I moved to the runway and whent to
> the high speed test next thing you know I am 20 ft up and loving it droped
> the power down to about 4000 and it seteld nice and soft on the runway.
> ops I did this Hight speed test about 8 times before the wind picked up..
>
> Rick Milew
> ultrastar Ca.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Get amazing travel prices for air and hotel in one click on Yahoo!
> FareChase
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Engine ideas (sleepless night) |
All this talking about an O-200 on the Mk III got me thinking in the middle
of the night. I have a couple of Lycoming O-290G (ground power unit engine)
in my shop. Way too heavy for the Mk III but what if it were cut down to a
two cylinder? Yeah, a lot of work to make a billet crank case for it, and
there would be some other issues, but it might make an interesting project
this winter. Get rid of the mags and use an electronic ignition, use a VW H=
i
Perf oil pump and get rid of the expensive Lyc unit. Unlike the Conti, the
Lyc uses a starter that doesn't go through the accessory gear drive and wit=
h
a 122 ring gear you can run an inexpensive (and much lighter) HonToyNisMa
starter. Hmmm.
Okay, gotta take the less powerful antihistamine tabs tonight and get some
sleep.
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine ideas (sleepless night) |
Morning Gang:
Thinking out loud again. Not to ruffle anyone's feathers, especially
the Kolb Alternative Engine Group.
I got my start with Kolb Aircraft more than 22 years ago. With the
exception of the Cuyuna ULII02 on the Ultrastar, Kolb aircraft have
been powered by Rotax engines. The only other engine to come close to
the Rotax, 2 and 4 stroke, was the direct drive Jabiru on John W's
Kolbra. His Jab was adequate, but did not do the Kolbra justice.
Hence, the 912ULS now powers the JW Kolbra.
Verner hasn't made much of a hit.
VW hasn't either, to be honest. Rick Neilsen is flying one on his
MKIII.
Geo/Suzuki will push a MKIII quick enough to fly. Bob Bean has one on
his MKIII.
Not to forget Jack Hart's Vitorini (sp). Haven't seen a run on Kolbs
powered by this engine.
Hirth is out there on Kolbs, but I don't hear much about them either.
I assume they do perform well with comparable power output to the
Rotax 2 stroke.
To be honest, I don't have personal experience with any of the
alternative engines, except the Cuyuna, which was my first power unit
on my very first airplane, a 1984 Ultrastar.
Please to not read anything into what I am thinking and sharing with
the List. I am not saying, "Do not pursue alternative power plants
for Kolbs." Simply saying, "So far, we have not been able to come up
with something equal to or better than Rotax to power Kolbs. Anything
less, at this time, is an injustice to the Kolb and its popular
performance.
Personally, I would love to have an alternative to the 912ULS I now
fly. If I could find an alternative at half the price of a new
912ULS, it would still be an expensive engine.
However, based on the nature of our sport, I want the best possible to
make my sport fun, safe, comfortable, and reliable. Anything less
takes the key element, "fun" out of the loop. No pun intended. If it
ain't fun, then it must be work or worse.
On my way to Indianapolis, IN, and Hampton, IA, this morning and
tomorrow. There is a 1936 Farmall
F-20 waiting for me at the end of the line. Picked a hell of a time
to go, weather looks very wet from here to there and return. Like
flying and weather, I have to take whatever the Man sends me for that
day.
Take care, see ya in four or five days,
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine ideas (sleepless night) |
With the
| exception of the Cuyuna ULII02 on the Ultrastar, Kolb aircraft have
| been powered by Rotax engines.
I know, I know, I forgot the Kolb Flyer powered by Solo, Chrysler, and
whatever Homer could find on the back shelf. Don't think I want to
try them though.
john h
hauck's holler, alabama
PS: Shutting down, for real, this time.......................
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine ideas (sleepless night) |
>
> Morning Gang:
>
>
>Not to forget Jack Hart's Vitorini (sp). Haven't seen a run on Kolbs
>powered by this engine.
>
................................................>
>Please to not read anything into what I am thinking and sharing with
>the List. I am not saying, "Do not pursue alternative power plants
>for Kolbs." Simply saying, "So far, we have not been able to come up
>with something equal to or better than Rotax to power Kolbs. Anything
>less, at this time, is an injustice to the Kolb and its popular
>performance.
.........................................>
>However, based on the nature of our sport, I want the best possible to
>make my sport fun, safe, comfortable, and reliable. Anything less
>takes the key element, "fun" out of the loop. No pun intended. If it
>ain't fun, then it must be work or worse.
...
John,
I cannot assume to speak for all who have or are mounting non Rotax engines
on other Kolb designs. But I have experience with both a Rotax 447 and the
Simonini Victor 1+ on a FireFly, I feel I can counter the statement, "So
far, we have not been able to come up with something equal to or better than
Rotax to power Kolbs." As far as I am concerned the Victor 1 is far
superior to the 447. It always starts on the first or second turn over,
idles smoothly at or below 2,000 rpm, is much quieter, and burns from 1.5 to
1.0 gph less than the 447 at the same cruise speeds.
Mounting the Victor 1+ was not easy, but it has immeasurably improved the
quality of my flight time.
Have a good trip.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Gear Legs |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi All,
I also did not like the stock Mark III gear legs that taper down from
1 3/8" to 3/4". Maybe this taper is good when you first learn in a Kolb so if you
have a really bad landing day then they will give and not the aircraft frame.
Butttttt, when you are more profient in landing then I believe these stock legs
are a little weak. Six months ago I did weld up new axile cuffs and now I have
7075 aluminum 1 3/8" gear legs that are 1 3/8" from top to bottom. Keep in mind
that if you have any severe landings that the legs don't really give much
and the shock transmitts to the frame. I have 6.00-6 tires and run 13 psi in them
for some shock absorbance. This set up seems to work very well even if you
have a hard landing. I guess the term "hard landing" can be somewhat subjective.
The welding of the new
1 3/8" axial cuffs was quite easy. I also extended my legs 4" so it raised my nose
some and gave me a slightly wider wheel stance. This made the plane handle
very well in landings and on the ground in winds.
See you at MV 2006
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
520-574-1080
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31826#31826
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb/Harley/0-200 |
| From: | "John Jung" <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
Richard Pike wrote:
>
> I think what you are missing is - It ain't the flying that causes problems, it's
the unplanned sudden stops.
Richard,
I think that you have this right. Even a hard landing could possibly bend the cage
with a heavy enough engine. Same for Firestars. More weight up high could
increase the chance turning up-side-down. Mark III's don't seem to have that problem,
though.
--------
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
Surprise, AZ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31830#31830
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Checkout?...I doan need no stinking...... |
| From: | "John Jung" <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
beauford(at)tampabay.rr.c wrote:
>
> Ralph: Personally, I think you are doing exactly the right thing by getting
> the training.
>
> Flying these little airplanes safely isn't all that difficult, but I think it
does require certain knowledge and skills that only come to most folks through
> quality training. I don't think you will ever look back and regret having invested
in the dual instruction with a good instructor.
My feelings, exactly, Beauford. I had maybe 30 hours dual before flying a Kolb,
and I have never regreted it. The dual time was not much fun, but I developed
discipline and skills that I would never have achived on my own. It really helped
to lower the stress for my first solo in a Kolb.
--------
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
Surprise, AZ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31838#31838
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine ideas (sleepless night) |
So what does Simonini get for a Victor 2 with their C box?
7 liters an hour at 5200 rpm is better than my 582.
And 92 hp on climbout wouldn't hurt either.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Jack B. Hart wrote:
>
>
> I cannot assume to speak for all who have or are mounting non Rotax engines
> on other Kolb designs. But I have experience with both a Rotax 447 and the
> Simonini Victor 1+ on a FireFly, I feel I can counter the statement, "So
> far, we have not been able to come up with something equal to or better than
> Rotax to power Kolbs." As far as I am concerned the Victor 1 is far
> superior to the 447. It always starts on the first or second turn over,
> idles smoothly at or below 2,000 rpm, is much quieter, and burns from 1.5 to
> 1.0 gph less than the 447 at the same cruise speeds.
>
> Mounting the Victor 1+ was not easy, but it has immeasurably improved the
> quality of my flight time.
>
> Have a good trip.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Winchester, IN
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Hoover" <flht99reh(at)columbus.rr.com> |
[Rolling Eyes]
A new can of worms, I hope! [Twisted Evil]
I entered "communication" into the search in our Matronics email lists. And I didn't
find all that much on Radio's. So for the ones that would say, didn't you
search first idiot? I can easily respond: Yes, thank you. And I found very little
toward radios as radios. There was some about communication systems from
pilot to passenger but not a lot about radio to the outside world. There was
a great deal about antenna, wiring, and location, location, location. But not
specifics as to radio.
Therefore, here are my questions regarding communication:
What radio do you use in communicating with the out of (your) plane world as in
to towers or plane to plane?
And
What headset have you found among all the many promising ads that works best for
you, including mike and why?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31844#31844
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
I was very annoyed by Chuck Yeager's comments. What a Jerk.>>
Will somebody tell me what is going on please. I gather Scott Crossfield is
dead but know no more than that. I have been out of touch with TV and
newspapers for the last couple of weeks and in any case it probably wasn`t
covered by the British Press.
Please somebody...
Pat
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Communication |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Ralph,
Recommendations for a radio and headset. I use a "Pilot" brand headset, model #
PA1779t, price $465. I would highly recommend a noise canceling headset. Any
good brand in noise canceling would most likely be a good choice. It is well worth
the money especially if you are slightly hard of hearing.
The radio I have is an Icom IC-A200, $780. It is a ten channel radio that I can
scroll or flip-flop channels from my stick. If you get a radio that you have
to adjust by hand every time you change channels it is bothersome to say the least.
I can program my radio with 10 different frequencies for a crosscountry
or all my local frequnceies and never have to mess with it again.
My antenna is mounted under the nose of my Kolb. I use a 45 degree angle antenna.
I also have a piece of sheet metal mounted flat on the inside of my nose to
act as a good ground plane for the antenna. I get very good range and no interference
in this location.
I'm sure their are many good radios and headsets and of course mounting locations.
These seem to work for me.
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.,
520-574-1080
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31849#31849
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kfackler" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Communication |
Radio: Sporty's SP-200 (nav/com)
Headset: Peltor (single plug with adapter and stick-mounted PTT from
Comtronics)
Antenna: STA-Lite Aviation kit mounted just in front of the vertical
stabilizer
Results: Excellent
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Communication |
| From: | "John Jung" <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
Ralph Hoover wrote:
>
>
> What headset have you found among all the many promising ads that works best
for you, including mike and why?
Ralph,
A year ago, I got the DRE 6000 and reported to the list how much I liked it. After
that, some other list members got the 6000 and it seems everyone likes it.
Noise cancelling for less than $300, and proven to work in Kolbs. Easy choice.
--------
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
Surprise, AZ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31857#31857
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ron wehba" <rwehba(at)cebridge.net> |
anyone have any pictures of a center mounted control stick on a =
ultrastar, know i have seen a picture but don't know where. thanks ron w =
missing mine, gonna build a'nuther
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | What's a SS airframe worth? |
| From: | "13brv3" <13brv3c(at)bellsouth.net> |
Greetings,
As some of you may recall, I have a SS that I was installing a single rotor Mazda
engine on. The engine is installed and running well, though the redrive had
some evil resonance issues, and was removed. The whole installation came out
on the high end of my weight expectations as well (240 lbs). I'm looking into
a couple other redrive options, but even with the available weight reductions,
I just don't think the SS is going to be the best choice for a test bed.
The engine will be too heavy, and too powerful for the SS, so the current plan
is to move the engine to a more suitable airframe when my RV-8 is flying later
this year.
This is not exactly a "for sale" announcement, but if anyone is interested you
can certainly send me an email. My primary goal is to try to figure out if it's
financially worth selling the airframe. I'd like to get it out of my way,
but if it's not worth anything, I'll probably just stick it in the corner of the
hanger for now. I've lost enough money on this project already :-)
The airframe is complete, and was previously flying. It is not currently registered.
There is no covering on it, except for the vert stab, but the covering
kit is included. The fusealage is on gear, with hydraulic heel brakes, and battery
in the nose. I removed some of the structure for the canopy, making is
similar to a FS cage, but the original structure is still here, and can be restored
to standard SS configuration with minimal welding. No engine or instruments
would be included.
I also have a 1050 Canister BRS that's just over a year old. It's still sealed
in the original box from BRS. That could go with the SS, or by itself.
So what could I sell this stuff for? Any estimates are certainly welcome.
Thanks,
Rusty (don't say it D.S. )
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31861#31861
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Casey" <n79rt(at)kilocharlie.us> |
Saw "Hog-air" fly their demo plane at the first Sebring air expo, fall a
year ago. Was standing about 30 feet from the thing when they did a
full power runup...was ridiculously loud!!! The warbird guys would have
been proud. No way you could fly a couple of hundred hours a year in
that thing without hearing damage. Think Harley with drag pipes and add
the prop noise (typically the loudest source on a 912...) and all that
vibration rattling a metal airframe. (Demo plane was a Zodiac 601...the
skins vibrated like a banjo string)
If they were able to seriously muffle that engine and not loose a big
percentage of the power it MIGHT be interesting. Then the next thing to
consider would be is it an improvement in anyway over the established
engines out there (912's, Geo's, etc...) for the money they are
talking, you can buy a 80 hp 912... and I doubt SERIOUSLY that they
will match it for dependability.
They might sell a few as conversation pieces for the diehard Harley
fans...but judging from the fact that they have already changed their
name after a whopping 2 years in business... I'd bet business ain't
good...
Jeremy Casey
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Communication |
| From: | "Ralph Hoover" <flht99reh(at)columbus.rr.com> |
If you get a radio that you have to adjust by hand every time you change channels
it is bothersome to say the least. I can program my radio with 10 different
frequencies for a cross-country or all my local frequencies and never have to
mess with it again.
My antenna is mounted under the nose of my Kolb. I use a 45 degree angle antenna.
I also have a piece of sheet metal mounted flat on the inside of my nose to
act as a good ground plane for the antenna. I get very good range and no interference
in this location. "
Now this is the meat and potato's that a man needs in order to make an inteligent
decision!
Thanks Roger
I do have the plate of aluminum (or the Brits refer to it as aluminimum), and the
45 degree angle. The radio and headset prices are way up there, wow for a simple
guy like me. Unfortunately out of my range. But none-the-less, important
to know for many others. Also the adjust and channel things are really important.
If one doesn't know the right questions to ask, one comes up short on what
he gets. I like being prepared to ask the right questions and to know what the
answers mean. Thanks again.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31874#31874
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Communication |
| From: | "Ralph Hoover" <flht99reh(at)columbus.rr.com> |
"stick-mounted PTT from Comtronics) " Thanks kfackler, that too is the meat and
potato's.
I do also have installed a push to talk button.
And John Jung, I appreciate your DRE 6000 headset info. Thats a lot of money,
but if it works, thats pretty cheap. I keep reading over the internet where individuals
have half a dozen headsets everything from lightspeed to Bose. Ironically,
the cheap ones work for some and the good (expensive) ones work for others.
All this is great help to the newby!
"I can hear-ya-now" Ralph of Ohio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31876#31876
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "J.D. Stewart" <jstewart(at)inebraska.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Communication |
If anyone is interested, I have a new DRE 6000 (maybe 4 hours?) that I'm
probably going to sell. I have a Telex 50-D for my main headset, and their
mic sensitivities are too far apart to use the squelch effectively. If I
turn down the squelch on my DRE intercom where my Telex is set right, I have
to speak very loudly into the DRE to break the squelch. Otherwise, if I
turn it up to where the DRE is set right, almost anything breaks the squelch
on the Telex. The mic is just too hot on the Telex. For anything less than
the Telex or other high-end headsets with hot mics, the DRE would probably
work fine.
DRE said the solution would be to have two DRE6000 headsets so they're both
matched. Since I have a boatload of money into the Telex, that's not an
option. Includes everything you get when buying brand new, including the
case and box it came in. $275, including shipping to anywhere in the conti
US.
Thanks,
J.D. Stewart
UltraFun AirSports, LLC
www.ultrafunairsports.com
Titan Aircraft E-mail list
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Titanaircraft/
Challenger E-mail list
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/FlyChallenger/
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ralph Hoover
> Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 3:44 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Communication
>
>
>
>
> "stick-mounted PTT from Comtronics) " Thanks kfackler, that too
> is the meat and potato's.
>
> I do also have installed a push to talk button.
>
> And John Jung, I appreciate your DRE 6000 headset info. Thats a
> lot of money, but if it works, thats pretty cheap. I keep reading
> over the internet where individuals have half a dozen headsets
> everything from lightspeed to Bose. Ironically, the cheap ones
> work for some and the good (expensive) ones work for others. All
> this is great help to the newby!
>
> "I can hear-ya-now" Ralph of Ohio
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31876#31876
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Communication |
| From: | "John Jung" <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
Ralph Hoover wrote:
>
> And John Jung, I appreciate your DRE 6000 headset info. Thats a lot of money,
but if it works, thats pretty cheap.
Ralph,
I used to think that it was a lot of money, too. But I spent more than that on
3 sets of headsets before I bought the 6000. Let me give an example of the difference
in noise reduction: On climbout, I noticed that I couldn't hear what my
buddy, in another Firestar, was saying on the radio. I wondered what was wrong
for a minute, until I remembered to turn on the noise reduction. Once on, I
could hear again with no problem. At full power with a 503, the difference in
noise reduction is like night and day.
--------
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
Surprise, AZ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31886#31886
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine ideas (sleepless night) |
In a message dated 4/30/2006 10:26:22 A.M. Central Standard Time,
jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net writes:
As far as I am concerned the Victor 1 is far
superior to the 447. It always starts on the first or second turn over,
idles smoothly at or below 2,000 rpm, is much quieter, and burns from 1.5 to
1.0 gph less than the 447 at the same cruise speeds.
Mounting the Victor 1+ was not easy, but it has immeasurably improved the
quality of my flight time.
Have a good trip.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
Jack,
I seem to be getting 1 hour and 45 min of flight time on 5
gallons. Does that sound about the same as you got with your 447? Seems like
I
went 41 miles at 65 mph and burned about 2 and 3/4 gallons. I was thinking
the 447 has a safe range of 50 or 60 miles and have a gallon or so left. What
did you consider a safe range with your 447, and now with the victor 1+ with
minimal headwind?
Ed (firefly #62)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Bass" <gtb(at)commspeed.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Communication |
Ralph Hoover , & others;
The price of one of those nice headsets could cost a
person several hundred dollars. Even the one offered
this evening was getting close to the $300.00 mark.
On the other hand, I recently had to spend THREE
THOUSAND DOLLARS, for a set of HEARING AIDS.
And at this time, I'm not too sure I want to hear all the
stuff that's out there, but, it would have been nice if I
could have put that money on something that would
have provided a little airtime.
George Bass
Maybe a new group of the "Hear No Evil, See No Evil, Etc"
could be in my future. Hearing more & liking it less.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What's a SS airframe worth? |
| From: | "13brv3" <13brv3c(at)bellsouth.net> |
Hi Scott,
Since I paid 3 times that for the chute, I'm not willing to sell it anywhere near
that cheap. This is good feedback though. If that's all it's worth, then
I'll just keep it.
Cheers,
Rusty
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=31979#31979
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine ideas (sleepless night) |
Ed,
The best I could do was about 70 miles with the 447, and I had to put it on the
ground. 447 averge for nine round trips from Perryville Municipal to Painton,
MO and back was 3.1 gph.
Last summer, I flew several 100 to 110 mile loops from Winchester where I landed
at at least two other airports. In each instance, I calculated I could make
it back to Winchester with out adding fuel. But it would have been cutting it
very close. So, I added 100 LL at the last stop and to be comfortable during
last leg home. A poor guess on the wind could have emptied the gas tank.
I have been working on leaning out the Victor 1+. I am plotting the points so
I can keep track of the needle position, jet sizes, etc. so that I can figure
out what my next move should be. Before every test flight a spark plug is removed
to check that the engine was not running too lean during the previous flight.
Then new needle seems to be very good at 5,200 rpm and lower. But as one
moves to the higher rpms, the EGT starts to drop and the Bing goes rich. I
calculated the fuel flow area between the needle and needle jet at the lowest
throttle opening at which the engine reachs maximum rpm and found that the main
jet is much too large. I have ordered some smaller main jets in an attempt
to lean out the Bing and to increase the EGT above 5,200 rpm.
The last test was run at 5,200 rpm and the calculated fuel flow rate was 1.91 gph.
Air speed was gps average of 52 mph. This fuel flow rate is conservative
as the total fuel consumed includes, engine warm up, taxi in and out, takeoff
and approach rpms with a constant cruise rpm. The timer is tripped as the takeoff
roll starts and is tripped again at touch down. Fuel volume is read with
the FireFly in the same fixed position in the hangar. Based on this performance
the FireFly could be flown 109 miles with a one gallon reserve, or 122 miles
with a half gallon reserve.
Raining here today. A good day to re-assemble the FireFly.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
> I seem to be getting 1 hour and 45 min of flight time on 5
>gallons. Does that sound about the same as you got with your 447? Seems like
I
>went 41 miles at 65 mph and burned about 2 and 3/4 gallons. I was thinking
>the 447 has a safe range of 50 or 60 miles and have a gallon or so left. What
>did you consider a safe range with your 447, and now with the victor 1+ with
>minimal headwind?
>
>Ed (firefly #62)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Frantz <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
Dave, Boyd,
Thanks for the response on my question of removing ethanol from gasoline.
Might consider tying it and then add octane booster that can be gotten
at auto supply stores.
Would like to keep my now 500 hour 447 running without losing the
crankcase seals.
Haven't tore it down yet and don't wish to for some time yet.
And Jack, I get 25 to 27 miles to the gallon on my FireFly cruising at
about 5200 rpm.
Being pushed by a Tennessee two blade wood prop with the tips cut as I
discussed before.
I'm real pleased with the performance of my 447. Steady and reliable!!!
And while Im at it, for those of you exploring alternative gear legs,
listen to what John H. is
trying to tell you!! I followed his lead and made tempered 4130 gear
legs for my FireFly and
have forgotten about them since. Land in farm fields quite a bit here
in "Amish" country.
Terry - FireFly #95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Lehman" <david(at)davidlehman.net> |
| Subject: | Re: center stick |
Ron...
I don't have time to look right at the moment, but I remember uploading som=
e
center-stick pictures on the Kolbultrastar Yahoo group...
David
On 4/30/06, ron wehba wrote:
>
>
> anyone have any pictures of a center mounted control stick on a =3D
> ultrastar, know i have seen a picture but don't know where. thanks ron w =
=3D
> missing mine, gonna build a'nuther
>
>
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
>
--
=F4=BF=F4 "Failure lies not in falling down. Failure lies in not getting u=
p."
(traditional Chinese proverb)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass gear legs (Yeager-Crossfield) |
> You would need a way to keep them dry,
> because moisture would corrode the aluminum?
Could also cause the wood to swell and split the aluminum.
Do not
archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass gear legs (Yeager-Crossfield) |
| From: | "Possum" <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
esteuber(at)rochester.rr. wrote:
> All,=20
> I am restoring a CGS Hawk with lots of mods and one is the =
> fiberglass gear legs.The CGS used straight aluminum =
> tubing for the gear legs that broke easily in the last off field landing =
> accident (not mine )....Why not use solid wood inside the aluminum gear legs...easily
done on a wood lathe to the correct dimension and then =
> epoxied or just drilled using the existing bolt mounts. The type of wood =
> used could be something flexible or more rigid depending on preference.
I tried putting fiberglass rods in my old Hawk legs (same idea - different material).
Built one in 1983 when they first came out. The Alum legs still bent, the
fiberglass rods bent too, and stayed bent. But they probably weighed about
10 pounds each.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32149#32149
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hawk_189.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 4130 gear legs |
In a message dated 5/1/2006 9:20:46 A.M. Central Standard Time,
tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net writes:
And while Im at it, for those of you exploring alternative gear legs,
listen to what John H. is
trying to tell you!! I followed his lead and made tempered 4130 gear
legs for my FireFly and
have forgotten about them since. Land in farm fields quite a bit here
in "Amish" country.
Terry - FireFly #95
Terry,
I have just a little over 10 hours and 60 landings, Several with bounces
and have not bent a leg yet. Maybe the fact that I use the 6" wheels at low
pressure helps absorb the shock. I built 3 prs of 4130 heat treated legs for
the Firefly per your drawings, but have not needed them ---yet. Those
aluminum legs seem to be pretty tough, but If I ever bend one I have plenty
replacement 4130 axles waiting for duty!
Ed Diebel Firefly # 62 ( anticipating Monument Valley)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Kolbers and Kolbettes:
Once again the mighty 447 asserts its total dominance over
a thoroughly beaten, sniveling and craven Beauford....
Last 5 hours -- Head temps are too high... they both climb steadily at =
full power, reaching=20
400 plus in about 20 seconds... and the fan-end cylinder remains hot, =
stabilizing
about 390 when one throttles back to normal (5800) cruise. Rear cylinder =
comes=20
down to about 360.
Data:
-- Engine had complete top end rebuild at Lockwood 16 hours ago...new =
pistons
and rings. Has consistently run hotter since rebuild, but not this hot =
until
last five hours.
-- Swapped plug thermocouples...verified front is hot cylinder and temp =
reads accurately
-- Same jetting as always... it previously ran at 340 CHT on these same =
jets
and with needle in this same (second) notch
-- No change in prop loading... turns 6050 static, 6450 wot in flight
-- Temps remain together up to 4400 rpm...then front takes off as =
throttle
is pushed up further...eventually gets to 40 degree difference
-- Both EGT's remain normal (1020) at WOT... 1090 at cruise.=20
-- Plugs are clean and pretty...good color,slightly on light side... no =
trace=20
of excess carbon
-- Running Amsoil Saber 100 to one, but I'm mixing it at 70 to one
-- Ran a test tank of Pennzoil AC 50 to 1, no change in problem
-- All new gaskets throughout top of engine... heads and both manifolds
are torqued and re-torqued. No evidence of leakage at head or exhaust =
gaskets.
--Have not yet pulled exhaust to verify rings are free..that is next =
step, followed
by compression check.
I'm thinking air leak. Anyone have any other "hot" ideas?
Also, is there any reliable way to leak-check the case and crank
seals without tearing down the engine...? =20
Beat-up Beauford
FF#076
Brandon, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
| From: | Herb Gayheart <herbgh(at)juno.com> |
Beauford
I feel for you! My Firefly is sitting in the garage, not flying, on
account of lack of power which has been discussed before ... Likely
crank center seals since all else has been checked..
There is a fellow in East Tenn who has mounted a 40 some odd horsepower
half vw on his Firefly.. Just about ready to take a test flight ...
Won't be as good as a 447 in performance------. He flew it previously
but got some bad gas which caused him to abort his first flight with
light damage to the Fly.. Ready to go again.. Definitely bad gas as he
had put it in some equipment around his farm and screwed the engines up
on those also.. That was when he knew what was going on...
I fly a half vw on an N3 pup and am satisfied with it... Not as
smooth as a 447. I have a second half vw and will look at the
installation in East Tenn before I decide to go that way... 5 gal tank
will give 2+ hours of cruise. It won't be a Firefly in terms of climb and
performance.. However-- 100 dollars buys two pistons , jugs, rings and
wrist pins..:-) valves cost 4 to 5 bucks.. main and cam bearing set
costs abt $40 for both. Rear seal 7 bucks.. Gasket set about 10 ..
Uses av gas with no worry..
You did not say that the fan belt was in good shape? Herb
writes:
>
>
> Kolbers and Kolbettes:
>
> Once again the mighty 447 asserts its total dominance over
> a thoroughly beaten, sniveling and craven Beauford....
>
> Last 5 hours -- Head temps are too high... they both climb steadily
> at =
> full power, reaching=20
> 400 plus in about 20 seconds... and the fan-end cylinder remains
> hot, =
> stabilizing
> about 390 when one throttles back to normal (5800) cruise. Rear
> cylinder =
> comes=20
> down to about 360.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
In a message dated 5/2/2006 8:56:25 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com writes:
Last 5 hours -- Head temps are too high
Beauford,
As Herb just mentioned, check the fan belt. High head temps usually point
to an air cooling problem, whereas high EGT readings point to a fuel mixture
(lean or rich) condition. While you look at the fan belt, also look for
obstructions in the cylinder fin area (like a rats nest or birds nest?)
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
Beauford, it needs a good Seafoam treatment :)
Seriously, have you retorqued the head bolts since the rebuild? You have to loosen
them all up, then retorque according to the bolt pattern in many of the order
catalogs.
Ralph
Original Firestar
19 years flying it
-- "Beauford" wrote:
Kolbers and Kolbettes:
Once again the mighty 447 asserts its total dominance over
a thoroughly beaten, sniveling and craven Beauford....
Last 5 hours -- Head temps are too high... they both climb steadily at =
full power, reaching=20
400 plus in about 20 seconds... and the fan-end cylinder remains hot, =
stabilizing
about 390 when one throttles back to normal (5800) cruise. Rear cylinder =
comes=20
down to about 360.
Data:
-- Engine had complete top end rebuild at Lockwood 16 hours ago...new =
pistons
and rings. Has consistently run hotter since rebuild, but not this hot =
until
last five hours.
-- Swapped plug thermocouples...verified front is hot cylinder and temp =
reads accurately
-- Same jetting as always... it previously ran at 340 CHT on these same =
jets
and with needle in this same (second) notch
-- No change in prop loading... turns 6050 static, 6450 wot in flight
-- Temps remain together up to 4400 rpm...then front takes off as =
throttle
is pushed up further...eventually gets to 40 degree difference
-- Both EGT's remain normal (1020) at WOT... 1090 at cruise.=20
-- Plugs are clean and pretty...good color,slightly on light side... no =
trace=20
of excess carbon
-- Running Amsoil Saber 100 to one, but I'm mixing it at 70 to one
-- Ran a test tank of Pennzoil AC 50 to 1, no change in problem
-- All new gaskets throughout top of engine... heads and both manifolds
are torqued and re-torqued. No evidence of leakage at head or exhaust =
gaskets.
--Have not yet pulled exhaust to verify rings are free..that is next =
step, followed
by compression check.
I'm thinking air leak. Anyone have any other "hot" ideas?
Also, is there any reliable way to leak-check the case and crank
seals without tearing down the engine...? =20
Beat-up Beauford
FF#076
Brandon, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
check fan belt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
| From: | "John Jung" <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
beauford(at)tampabay.rr.c wrote:
>
> I'm thinking air leak. Anyone have any other "hot" ideas?
> Also, is there any reliable way to leak-check the case and crank
> seals without tearing down the engine...?
Beauford,
I'm pretty sure that your problem is not a leak, be it case or crank seals. A leak
should cause high exhaust gas temps. I would check the fan, like others suggested,
and after that, I would want to see the inside of the engine. Have you
asked the people that did the work on it? I've been told that excess friction
causes high CH temps, but I don't know a likely cause of that.
--------
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
Surprise, AZ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32353#32353
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Russell <jr(at)rometool.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
Hey all, I had high cht temps many years ago with a 447, this engine was
brand new out of the box, cht temps were getting close to 500 degs.
Eventually, I removed the heads to find that the head gaskets were not
there.....this little bit of higher compression created the overheating.
In cases where I thought I may have a air leak, this works great on
motorcycles or any 2 cycle, with the engine running at idle take a can
of starting fluid and spray the suspected air leak areas, the engine
will rev upon finding a leak.
John
John Jung wrote:
>
>
> beauford(at)tampabay.rr.c wrote:
>
>> I'm thinking air leak. Anyone have any other "hot" ideas?
>> Also, is there any reliable way to leak-check the case and crank
>> seals without tearing down the engine...?
>>
>
>
> Beauford,
>
> I'm pretty sure that your problem is not a leak, be it case or crank seals. A
leak should cause high exhaust gas temps. I would check the fan, like others
suggested, and after that, I would want to see the inside of the engine. Have
you asked the people
> that did the work on it? I've been told that excess friction causes high CH
temps, but I don't know a likely cause of that.
>
> --------
> John Jung
> Firestar II N6163J
> Surprise, AZ
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32353#32353
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
| From: | "Ralph Hoover" <flht99reh(at)columbus.rr.com> |
"In cases where I thought I may have a air leak, this works great on
motorcycles or any 2 cycle, with the engine running at idle take a can
of starting fluid and spray the suspected air leak areas, the engine
will rev upon finding a leak. "
I love that! I knew that in my old ring-ding days, there was a way to check, and
you defined it! I truely hope this gives Beuford the edge he needs.
Ohio Ralph
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32374#32374
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
| From: | "jadamson" <j-adamson(at)tamu.edu> |
Ralph Hoover wrote:
> "In cases where I thought I may have a air leak, this works great on
> motorcycles or any 2 cycle, with the engine running at idle take a can
> of starting fluid and spray the suspected air leak areas, the engine
> will rev upon finding a leak. "
>
>
>
> I love that! I knew that in my old ring-ding days, there was a way to check,
and you defined it! I truely hope this gives Beuford the edge he needs.
>
>
> Ohio Ralph
Gee, Ralph, I'da thought you'd remembered that from your "old Harley days" as well.
WD-40 or starting fluid around the intake manifold is the standard way to
check for leaks on early Evos and prior, especially the ones with the rubber
compliance boots. Oh, I forgot, you ride one of them new-fangled Twin Cams.
(Sorry, couldn't resist. :-))
John A
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32392#32392
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
Just remember to cone off the carb(s) to keep a combustible compound from
going in the engine that way and giving a false positive. The opposite is
also true, use water or carb cleaner and listen for the engine to slow down
On 5/2/06, jadamson wrote:
>
>
> Ralph Hoover wrote:
> > "In cases where I thought I may have a air leak, this works great on
> > motorcycles or any 2 cycle, with the engine running at idle take a can
> > of starting fluid and spray the suspected air leak areas, the engine
> > will rev upon finding a leak. "
> >
> >
> >
> > I love that! I knew that in my old ring-ding days, there was a way to
> check, and you defined it! I truely hope this gives Beuford the edge he
> needs.
> >
> >
> > Ohio Ralph
>
>
> Gee, Ralph, I'da thought you'd remembered that from your "old Harley days=
"
> as well. WD-40 or starting fluid around the intake manifold is the stand=
ard
> way to check for leaks on early Evos and prior, especially the ones with =
the
> rubber compliance boots. Oh, I forgot, you ride one of them new-fangled
> Twin Cams. (Sorry, couldn't resist. :-))
>
> John A
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D32392#32392
>
>
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Weather..To fly or not to fly T.I.T.Q. |
| From: | "Ralph Hoover" <flht99reh(at)columbus.rr.com> |
I would personally find it interesting to hear how most of you determine if the
weather is right for flight today (or any given day). I don't believe that all
of you are as fortunate as John Houck in living in your own "Hollar" or field
attached to your residence.
My plane is hangerrd approximately 25 minutes from my home and almost every time
I lick my index finger and hold it to the air, it appears good to fly. Yet,
when I arrive at the field the sock is out straight. Go figure.
Any secrets: longer finger for greater altitude? Live closer to the airport. live
at the airport, live in the airplane. I mean here in Ohio we are sophisticated
and have "double -Doppler" Rader. that gives us....1). twice the error or
2). half the accuracy.
Any advice?
Holding an extended finger in the air Ralph of Ohio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32404#32404
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Weather..To fly or not to fly T.I.T.Q. |
Go to :www.intellicast.com
Type in your zip code.
When it comes up, go to forecasts.
Click on "winds"
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Ralph Hoover wrote:
>
> I would personally find it interesting to hear how most of you determine if the
weather is right for flight today (or any given day). I don't believe that
all of you are as fortunate as John Houck in living in your own "Hollar" or field
attached to your residence.
>
> My plane is hangerrd approximately 25 minutes from my home and almost every time
I lick my index finger and hold it to the air, it appears good to fly. Yet,
when I arrive at the field the sock is out straight. Go figure.
>
> Any secrets: longer finger for greater altitude? Live closer to the airport.
live at the airport, live in the airplane. I mean here in Ohio we are sophisticated
and have "double -Doppler" Rader. that gives us....1). twice the error or
2). half the accuracy.
>
> Any advice?
>
>
> Holding an extended finger in the air Ralph of Ohio
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32404#32404
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weather..To fly or not to fly T.I.T.Q. |
At 06:53 PM 5/2/2006, you wrote:
>
>I would personally find it interesting to hear=20
>how most of you determine if the weather is=20
>right for flight today (or any given day). I=20
>don't believe that all of you are as fortunate=20
>as John Houck in living in your own "Hollar" or=20
>field attached to your residence.
Have you ever seen a windsock at a small airport?
(Describe it as a sock flying in the air.) It
shows the direction of the wind. If the force of
the wind is strong, the sock will be
horizontal. The windsock looks like a sock
without the heel, and is mounted on a tall pole.
Possums windsock.
Materials needed:
A metal compass, protractor, paper, pencil, a store compass, ruler.
Procedure:
Using the metal compass, draw a large circle on the paper.
Use the ruler to draw vertical and horizontal
lines through the center. Mark North up , South
down, East, and West at the intersections of 90 degrees.
Use the protractor to mark off points every 30=B0 around the circle.
Point to where a variety of angles would be, such
as 30=B0, 45=B0, 60=B0, 120=B0, etc., all around the circle.
Then suspend a brick from a string (where the
brick can swing freely) over the north south line
of your circle. Measure its weight and record
(ounces). (If using metric measurements, the
weight will be in grams, and the volume will be in cubic centimeters.)
Observations: When the wind is blowing, how does
this experiment apply to an airplane?
(The air reacts against the propellers of an
airplane as they drive the plane forward, and the
reaction against the plane has two elements, one
of which lifts the plane. Can you say, and also
spell the man=92s name, "Bernoulli"? (Bernewly -- B E R N O U L L I.)
The other element, gravity, pulls it down.)
Newton=92s Third Law of Motion. (For every action
there is an equal and opposite reaction.)
Questions: Did the brick "lost weight"? No
Conclusions: If the brick passes over the 45
degree line on your circle Southeast or Southwest
=96 don=92t fly today. Mark it on your circle (Don=92t Fly Today).
That=92s how we do it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lanny Fetterman <donaho(at)csrlink.net> |
| Subject: | Weather..To fly or not to fly T.I.T.Q. |
Ralph, The best flying weather I have found , is when there is a large high
pressure system right over where I live. I trailer to the airport, and
hate when I go to all the trouble of getting things ready and find the
wind sock straight out. So if the big H on the weather map is not over my
house I expect some wind when I get to the airport. Anyway this is my
M.O. Lanny Fetterman N598LF Firestar II
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weather..To fly or not to fly T.I.T.Q. |
| From: | "Ralph Hoover" <flht99reh(at)columbus.rr.com> |
"Go to :www.intellicast.com
Type in your zip code.
When it comes up, go to forecasts.
Click on "winds"
Well Pastor Pike I am truly amazed. You mean you believe in "forecasters"? Scares
me Brother. A man of your upbringing should stay clear of voodoo and witchcraft!
And as For the Possum's weather vane wind sock. Shame on you Possum. You should
give me greater credit than that. I have seen this sock / brick wind system and
it only works at winds OVER 45 miles per hour! And as for that " Bernoulli"
fellow, my Mother went to school with him. And the rule you referred to is incomplete.
The actual rule states that a body in motion tends to stay in motion
until it meets an immovable object of equal or greater authority! You see, before
I began riding with hard core heavy drinking bikers I was a nuclear physicist!
E=Mc Squared here in Ohio Ralph
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32422#32422
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cat36Fly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Weather..To fly or not to fly T.I.T.Q. |
A large part of your decision will be based on your ability. YOU have to
decide if the winds are not right for you.
Wind conditions can be found on AOL, local FSS and several other sites. Just
remember the "old pilots vs bold pilots 'adage.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weather..To fly or not to fly T.I.T.Q. |
| From: | "Ralph Hoover" <flht99reh(at)columbus.rr.com> |
"Ralph, The best flying weather I have found , is when there is a large high pressure
system right over where I live. I trailer to the airport, and
hate when I go to all the trouble of getting things ready and find the
wind sock straight out. So if the big H on the weather map is not over my
house I expect some wind when I get to the airport. Anyway this is my
M.O. Lanny Fetterman N598LF Firestar II"
Now you other posters see. Here Mr. Fetterman treated me as an adult with a degree
of respect and assumed that I could do word association. His information was
concise, diction complete and attitude not unlike one I would choose to hang
with. And NOW I will keep my eyes on the big "H" on the weather map rather than
the dag nabed brick on the wind sock compass suggested by our famous Possum.
I'll bet most of you other fliers didn't know about the big "H". Now did ya?
Ralph in an Ohio stationary front.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32429#32429
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kfackler" <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Weather..To fly or not to fly T.I.T.Q. |
> I would personally find it interesting to hear how most of you determine
if the weather is right for flight
> My plane is hangerrd approximately 25 minutes from my home
Dear Ralph:
My situation is very similar. I'm 15 miles but it's a 30 minute drive each
way.
I find these sites very reliable in terms of short-term forecast, such as
checking just after lunch for a flight after work:
Winds aloft:
http://map.aeroplanner.com/mapping/weather/weatherwindstemps.cfm
Current conditions and short-term forecast:
http://usairnet.com/cgi-bin/launch/code.cgi?sta=KMTC&model=avn&state=MI&Submit=Get+Forecast
Note, in the last URL there's an airport identified, KMTC. You can replace
this with the identifier for your airport but the site doesn't recognize the
little fields like the one I fly from. This is the closest one of size,
approximately 8 miles away. I use a few others around the area as well, but
you'll get the idea.
Hope this helps,
-Ken Fackler
Kolb Mark II / A722KWF
Ray Community Airport MI (57D)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Weather..To fly or not to fly T.I.T.Q. |
Great WX website. Many thanks!
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
kfackler wrote:
>
>
> Current conditions and short-term forecast:
> http://usairnet.com/
>
> -Ken Fackler
> Kolb Mark II / A722KWF
> Ray Community Airport MI (57D)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax relapse |
Kolbers and Kolbettes:
My sincere thanks to all who have responded generously with ideas about =
this
clear-cut instance of Austrian revenge....
Here is where it stands with regard to your suggestions...
-- The fan is OK... belt is tensioned, in good shape, and there is =
nothing foreign in the shroud
except this diabolical little motor...
-- Heads have been re-torqued twice... loosened and re-set to specs in =
proper sequence.
-- Head gasket is new and is OK... I put it there myself.
-- No washers under the plugs.
-- Ralph...this is just between us girls, but in a moment of reckless =
abandon, I actually=20
stooped to putting a goodly shot of --foam into the plug holes... =
waiting a while... taking a good
shot of --foam myself, and then running it out of the Rotax... no change =
other=20
than in my personal hydraulic habits....(3 stops on the way home... my =
rings
are free, thank you...)... "Hello, my name is Beauford, and I use =
---foam..."
-- Not sure about the internal friction angle... except that the new =
pistons were
installed by pros and they mic'd it all several times in my presence =
while they
were installing them.... who d'ya trust...?
-- I have a virtually new Bing 54 in a box...it is from a 447. I will =
install it and test run
it before surrendering.
--Will pay-up my Blue Cross, extinguish the stogie, and get a bottle of =
ether and/or WD-40=20
and sniff the seals if all else fails...
For Brother Frantz, who has 500 trouble free hours on his 447... =
Evidently mere gin and Partegas
are not enough... Whatever incense and incantations you are using, I =
want some....500 hours...?
"it just ain't natural..." as my in-laws say in South Georgia....
For Brother Gayheart... half VW's are looking better all the time... I =
would settle for 15 or 20
honest horsepower and 50 lbs of air in the tires at this juncture...and =
I'll go on another diet.=20
=20
Immediate plan: Based on input from a kind benefactor who repairs these =
contrivances for a living, I will next
unload the prop to 6250 static and revert to 50 to 1 oil mix...then hide =
and watch temps... He sez 447's are
highly sensitive to being overpropped.... mebbe I am too....
Thanks again to you all... Will advise...
Beauford
FF#076
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
Most headsets have a way to adjust the sensitivities of the mikes. EX: my
pilot headsets I had to get a mike that just pluged in for a replacement.
My telex has a mike adjustment inside the earcup, some of there mikes have
the adjustment in the end of the mike boom just under the foam.
But then it is usually easier to have a matching set.
Boyd
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
If anyone is interested, I have a new DRE 6000 (maybe 4 hours?) that
I'm
probably going to sell. I have a Telex 50-D for my main headset, and their
mic sensitivities are too far apart to use the squelch effectively. If I
turn down the squelch on my DRE intercom where my Telex is set right, I have
to speak very loudly into the DRE to break the squelch. Otherwise, if I
turn it up to where the DRE is set right, almost anything breaks the squelch
on the Telex. The mic is just too hot on the Telex. For anything less than
the Telex or other high-end headsets with hot mics, the DRE would probably
work fine.
DRE said the solution would be to have two DRE6000 headsets so
they're both
matched. Since I have a boatload of money into the Telex, that's not an
option. Includes everything you get when buying brand new, including the
case and box it came in. $275, including shipping to anywhere in the conti
US.
Thanks,
J.D. Stewart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax relapse |
At 11:04 PM 5/2/2006, you wrote:
>
>Kolbers and Kolbettes:
>My sincere thanks to all who have responded generously with ideas about .
Rookie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
Beauford, another thing to do is borrow a known good carburetor and swap it with
the one you've got. If everything straightens up, then you've got it nailed.
I keep my old carb for just that purpose.
Ralph
Original Firestar
19 years flying it
-- "Beauford" wrote:
Kolbers and Kolbettes:
Once again the mighty 447 asserts its total dominance over
a thoroughly beaten, sniveling and craven Beauford....
Last 5 hours -- Head temps are too high... they both climb steadily at =
full power, reaching=20
400 plus in about 20 seconds... and the fan-end cylinder remains hot, =
stabilizing
about 390 when one throttles back to normal (5800) cruise. Rear cylinder =
comes=20
down to about 360.
Data:
-- Engine had complete top end rebuild at Lockwood 16 hours ago...new =
pistons
and rings. Has consistently run hotter since rebuild, but not this hot =
until
last five hours.
-- Swapped plug thermocouples...verified front is hot cylinder and temp =
reads accurately
-- Same jetting as always... it previously ran at 340 CHT on these same =
jets
and with needle in this same (second) notch
-- No change in prop loading... turns 6050 static, 6450 wot in flight
-- Temps remain together up to 4400 rpm...then front takes off as =
throttle
is pushed up further...eventually gets to 40 degree difference
-- Both EGT's remain normal (1020) at WOT... 1090 at cruise.=20
-- Plugs are clean and pretty...good color,slightly on light side... no =
trace=20
of excess carbon
-- Running Amsoil Saber 100 to one, but I'm mixing it at 70 to one
-- Ran a test tank of Pennzoil AC 50 to 1, no change in problem
-- All new gaskets throughout top of engine... heads and both manifolds
are torqued and re-torqued. No evidence of leakage at head or exhaust =
gaskets.
--Have not yet pulled exhaust to verify rings are free..that is next =
step, followed
by compression check.
I'm thinking air leak. Anyone have any other "hot" ideas?
Also, is there any reliable way to leak-check the case and crank
seals without tearing down the engine...? =20
Beat-up Beauford
FF#076
Brandon, FL
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Weather..To fly or not to fly T.I.T.Q. |
http://www.usairnet.com/cgi-bin/launch/code.cgi?sta=KLMT&model=avn&state=OR&Submit=Change+Location
try this. It will give you the guess for all times of the day. You of course
will have to change the location, but it gives you some idea of when you
should be getting out of the sky.
Larry, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weather..To fly or not to fly T.I.T.Q. |
| From: | "John Jung" <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
Ralph and Group,
Here is what I can tell you about the decision to fly or not: When I had little
experience and was flying ultralights (other than Kolbs), it was a big deal.
I spent a lot of time wondering about and trying to figure out the winds and weather.
It all changed, though, after getting more flying experience and changing
to a Kolb. Now, I fly in most any weather, if I need to, or really want to.
But given a choice, I tend to pick times to fly based on comfort, avoiding strong
thermals or really hot or cold weather. I don't generally worry about the
direction of the wind unless the winds are very high.
So, what I am suggesting here is that the problem of predicting weather is only
a tempory problem.
--------
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
Surprise, AZ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32533#32533
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Gear Legs |
| From: | "John Jung" <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
> Roger Lee wrote: I also did not like the stock Mark III gear legs that taper
down from 1 3/8" to 3/4".
Roger and Group,
I'm with you. I think the problem with the aluminum gear legs is that there is
too much taper. The area near the wheel, where the diameter is 1" or less is very
easy to bend on a hard landing, or off-field landing. I would prefer no taper
to the current taper, and I plan to build some with no taper in the furure.
If I had the axle sockets, I would be using no-taper now. I suggested this change
to TNK, and got the feeling that I wasn't taken seriously. I have seen several
Kolbs that had big bends in the gear legs without damaging the cage, so
it is my opinion that a straight leg would give enough protection to the cage.
I am not restricting my comments to Mark III's.
--------
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
Surprise, AZ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32555#32555
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engine ideas (sleepless night) |
| From: | "John Jung" <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
Richard Pike wrote:
> So what does Simonini get for a Victor 2 with their C box?
Jack or anyone,
I also am interested in more information about the Victor 1 and 2. The 2 would
give my Firestar a nice cruise speed, and the weight appears to be O.K. But I
could not find price or even availability.
Where did you get your Victor? And, how does the power compare with the 447? Do
they exaggerate the HP?
--------
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
Surprise, AZ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32560#32560
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Gear Legs |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi All,
I talked to TNK too and I actually ordered a set of steal legs from them for my
Mark III Classic. I sent them back after I saw how high it lifted the nose and
they suggested that I change the angle of incidence on the wing. When I suggested
straight aluminum they said that would work and it was about the same strength
as the newer steal legs from them. My 1 3/8", 4" longer 7075 straight
gear legs work very well. I think the older style tapered legs may have been better
suited for the Mark III's when they were lighter and with out the mods like
the 912's and other equipment. The tapered legs just didn't hold up well on
some fields.
Just my two cents and I may get some change back on this post.
Roger Lee
16 more days
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32648#32648
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
| From: | "DieselsRcool" <LarryB(at)LBMaps.com> |
Are you 100% sure your gauge is correct? What brand/type is it? I seen the cheap
ones do some funny stuff.
If EGT is right on and CHT is amiss, cooling system correct. I'd be sure and double
check the source of your info.
Larry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32663#32663
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kolbdriver" <kolbdriver(at)mlsharp.com> |
Well, it looks like I may be moving again! This will be the 4th state my
mark III has been in and she has never left the ground!!
Are there any Kolbers in the Kansas City area?
If so please contact me off list..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax relapse |
| I will next
| unload the prop to 6250 static and revert to 50 to 1 oil mix...then
hide =
| and watch temps... He sez 447's are
| highly sensitive to being overpropped.... mebbe I am too....
|
| Thanks again to you all... Will advise...
|
| Beauford
| FF#076
Beauford/All:
I would even go a little further and say "all" two strokes are highly
sensitive to "overpropping" and also "underpropping".
Overpropping pulls down EGT and pushes up CHT. Sorta like running
around in your 6 speed Ferrari, in 6th gear at 25 mph WOT climbing a
mountain. My turbo Cummins Diesel will kick the EGT past the red line
in a flash if I am pulling low rpm and high throttle setting. Drop a
gear or two or three, get the engine and turbo winding and the air
moving through the engine; EGT drops significantly. I know, I know.
It is not a two stroke. Works about the same though, in a lot of
respects.
Can not speak for Beauford's particular 447, but I never had EGT or
CHT problems with mine as long as I left the engine set up like it
came out of the box, PLUS prop the engine so that it will just bump
the red line at WOT straight and level flight. I prop my airplanes
same as I prop my boat, WOT straight heading and bump the red line.
As long as I prop the engine this way, EGT's will be right in the ball
park, and CHT's will remain in the green. This was also true for my
582. With a ground adjustable prop, or a fixed pitch prop, adjusted
this way will give you the best climb and cruise configuration, plus
the engine will also be happy!!!
May not work for everyone, but it has worked for me, very
satisfactorily.
Take care,
john h
mkIII
PS: If this reply does not make sense it is because I just walked in
the house after 4 days driving 33.5 hours, and 2,211 miles. I am the
new Daddy of a 1936 Farmall F-20. At 4,400 lbs, if it had wings it
would fly too. ;-) Was a nice solo trip to Hampton, Iowa, pulling an
empty 20 foot flat bed trailer one way, and hauling the F-20 the
other. Diesel fuel is out of sight. Paid 2.85 a gal when I refueled
the first time for the return trip. Kinda takes the fun out of
burning up the highway.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Gear Legs |
| I'm with you. I think the problem with the aluminum gear legs is
that there is too much taper.
| --------
| John Jung
John J/Gents and Ladies (I guess):
Ever stop to think that 7075 aluminum rod may not be the best spring
material in the world. Just guessing, but I think 7075 is about as
hard as we can heat treat aluminum. Please correct me if I am wrong
because I am only guessing at the above.
Just because Homer Kolb started using solid aluminum rod for main gear
legs back in the FS and Twinstar days, and TNK still uses the same
gear legs, with the exception of some newer heat treated 4130 legs,
does not make aluminum the best application for a spring type main
gear leg.
I have been using 4130 heat treated tubular gear legs on FS and mkIII
since 1987. Still using them on my mkIII with good success. Yep,
they are spring steel, heat treated to 48 RC, yet not too hard that
they will not bend, without breaking, is pranged hard enough. Yes, I
have inadvertently tested my gear legs this far. ;-)
Good luck with fiberglass rod legs and aluminum tubing stuffed with
wood legs.
Ever stop to wonder why automobiles don't use aluminum springs???
Probably some auto out there uses them simply because I asked the
question. hehehe
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weather..To fly or not to fly T.I.T.Q. |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
Depends on where you live. Check out the following link for average winds by month
for cities all around the USA.
http://www.met.utah.edu/jhorel/html/wx/climate/windavg.html
I note that Phoenix, on average, does not have much wind at any time of year. Compare
those numbers to what is normal here in Buffalo, NY. We don't have a single
month in which the average wind is anywhere nearly as low as your windiest
month. The UL types fly around here only in early morning or late evening before
dusk.
Thom in Buffalo
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32714#32714
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Gear Legs |
In a message dated 5/4/2006 12:37:03 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com writes:
Good luck with fiberglass rod legs and aluminum tubing stuffed with
wood legs.
Ever stop to wonder why automobiles don't use aluminum springs???
Probably some auto out there uses them simply because I asked the
question. hehehe
john h
mkIII
John/All
If the fiberglass legs are too springy you can tame them down by putting a
few layers of Bi directional cloth over them. You need to run the fibers at a
Bias to the length of the rod. In other words, 45 degrees to the length. I am
assuming that what is available in rods is unidirectional strands. This will
also keep the rods from splitting.
If I was not on floats and needed gearlegs I would probably build my own
using woven roving strands available from Aircraft Spruce and a simple split
mold followed up by the bias treatment. You could use a alum gearleg as the plug
for your mold.
C'mon, someone dare me.
Steve B
Firefly on floats
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax relapse |
On May 4, 2006, at 12:23 AM, John Hauck wrote:
> May not work for everyone, but it has worked for me, very
> satisfactorily.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
> mkIII
John,
What do you mean "very satisfactorily" ?
How many trouble free hours total were you able to get from a two
stroke 582 or 447?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Gear Legs |
On May 4, 2006, at 12:36 AM, John Hauck wrote:
> Ever stop to wonder why automobiles don't use aluminum springs???
> Probably some auto out there uses them simply because I asked the
> question. hehehe
>
> john h
> mkIII
True,
but there are some automotive fiberglass springs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax relapse |
| What do you mean "very satisfactorily" ?
| How many trouble free hours total were you able to get from a two
| stroke 582 or 447?
Wasn't talking about trouble free hours. Was explaining how I prop a
two and a four stroke, airplane and boat. Best way I know how to do
it with a fixed or ground adjustable prop on airplane and boat.
Propping a two stroke airplane is especially critical to load the
engine correctly to get EGT and CHT in the green.
Trouble free and two strokes don't really go together. To me, two
strokes are like race engines. Get'em set up to run, they perform
well, but demand a lot of attention. Even then, the dreaded "piston
seizure" is always lurking, waiting to strike.
The fact that I stopped buying and flying two strokes in 1993, may
help explain my position.
There are always going to be a couple folks that have flown a two
stroke 500, 1,000 hours or more without any problems and little
maintenance. However, I believe them to be in a very, very small
minority.
Its fine if you all disagree with my experience with two strokes.
Maybe I was one of the unlucky ones. Maybe I didn't know what I was
doing. Initially, I did not have much knowledge of the two stroke. I
discovered, in flight, through experimentation, the phenomenon of prop
loading and unloading, and how it affected the EGT. At a constant
throttle setting, push the nose over, the EGT climbs - pull the nose
up and the EGT falls. Low midrange power descents, EGT heads for the
red line. Full power, full throttle applications and the EGT comes
back down. Didn't have the opportunity to learn the above from books.
Accidentally came upon it while playing with my Kolb Ultrastar.
However, even with all their associated problems, I never hesitated to
hop in my two stroke powered Kolb, point the nose where I wanted to
go, and head out for adventure. When the opportunity for a four
stroke came along, it simply made those adventures a lot for
comfortable.
Some improvements have been made to our two strokes today, compared to
20+ years ago. Primarily, CDI ignition, better bearings, i.e.,
cageless wrist pin bearings.
john h
mkIII
PS: Should be landing at MV two weeks from today, I hope. ;-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax relapse |
On May 4, 2006, at 9:38 AM, John Hauck wrote:
> Wasn't talking about trouble free hours. Was explaining how I prop a
> two and a four stroke, airplane and boat. Best way I know how to do
> it with a fixed or ground adjustable prop on airplane and boat.
>
> Propping a two stroke airplane is especially critical to load the
> engine correctly to get EGT and CHT in the green.
>
> Trouble free and two strokes don't really go together.
snip
>
> Some improvements have been made to our two strokes today, compared to
> 20+ years ago. Primarily, CDI ignition, better bearings, i.e.,
> cageless wrist pin bearings.
I agree,
but it is possible to load a two-stroke anywhere within its designed
operational rpm range and, with proper mixture control, have good
success.
Our two-strokes are much more finicky because they get almost twice
the hp of a four-stroke from a given displacement, and because they
depend heavily on pulse tuning to breath properly. Any change in rpm
significantly effects the characteristic of the engine to breath
efficiently. Without fuel injection it is almost impossible to
optimize the fuel mixture for every possible load variation and
throttle position.
The key to success with a two-stroke is to understand these
characteristics and always operate them within their narrow band of
performance requirements
Two-strokes are not good at everything, but they remain unbeaten at
what they are good at.
That is hp/weight for our planes.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax relapse |
|
| Our two-strokes are much more finicky because they get almost twice
| the hp of a four-stroke from a given displacement,
Gene/Gang:
Yes, and they lack the ability to cool themselves as the 4 strokes.
The 912 is primarily oil cooled, although Rotax used water cooling to
help cool the heads. They wanted to go air cooling all the way, but
because of the amount of heat produced by the little engine, the head
cooling fins would have to have been to large a package for most
enclosed applications. The cylinders are entirely aircooled.
Along with cooling, that oil is also doing a good job of lubrication
of the engine.
Two strokes rely heavily on air and fuel to cool themselves. One
reason the are not "fuel efficient". Another is because they depend
of other means for valving than the normal 4 stroke. I know Jack Hart
is adamant about making his two strokes fuel misers. Without a doubt
he loves the challenge of trying to make something out of the two
stroke that it is not. Considerable caution should be used when
"leaning" a two stroke for fuel economy. In addition to burning less
fuel, the two stroke will put out a lot more power in an over lean
condition than when it is running in the area of fuel richness for
which it was designed. Leaner, more power, more heat, less fuel and
oil. Be glad when Jack gets a little 4 stroke to play with on his FF.
Then he can lean that little sucker out, power it down, and end up
burning a gallon an hour. ;-)
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
beauford(at)tampabay.rr.c wrote:
> Kolbers and Kolbettes:
>
> -- Running Amsoil Saber 100 to one, but I'm mixing it at 70 to one
> -- Ran a test tank of Pennzoil AC 50 to 1, no change in problem
>
> Brandon, FL
Amsoil 2 cycle oil is horrible stuff. I dont care how they market the oil, 100
- 1 is not enough oil in the gas. 70 to 1 is not even enough. Amsoil leaves
behind a sticky mess and fouls plugs and makes rings stick. Motorcycle guys
that run 2 stroke bikes run other oils.
Amsoil is an inferrior product that relys on a pyramid sales network that sells
everyone on the fact that it is better. But Amsoil sucks, and never has held
its own in the open market.
John Hawk is very correct, 2 stroke engines are unreliable and very prone to problems
and failures. They can be made to run under perfect conditions, but sooner
or later engines encounter less than perfect conditions, shit happens. Even
motorcycles, boats and jetskis are going towards 4 stroke design now days.
I realize that choices for the firefly and firestar are limited, but if I flew
one of those I would do my best to find a 4 stroke for it. Maybe the HKS ???
Only a total idiot would not realize how far superior a 4 stroke is to a 2 stroke.
Michael A. Bigelow
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32828#32828
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Lift Newton or Bernewly |
There is a guy that does a talk at Oshkosh every year. He explains the
testing he has done and the calculations proves that it is 100% Newton. Most
of it is way over my head. The EAA appears to back his ideas so I would
think it is true.
Also Bert Rutan's airfoil expert (John Ronz) has made reference to it being
Newton in his talks
My $.01 worth
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "pat ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 4:21 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Weather..To fly or not to fly T.I.T.Q.
>
> Bernewly gives abt 10% of the lift, Newt gives the rest. >>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)msbit.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
> 100 - 1 is not enough oil in the gas.
Damn! My engine isn't going to like that. I've run nothing but 106:1 since
new. OMCand Orbital, who have run two stokes at upwards of 225:1 without
deleterious effect, won't be too happy either.
Jim Baker
580.788.2779
Elmore City, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Noyer <a58r(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Weather aka what lifts a wing? |
Friend Pat
There are quite a few citations re: lift comma airfoil. The first one
that comes to mind is: http://www.allstar.fiu.edu/aero/
airflylvl3.htm. I have several on another computer I use for research
and writing, so I'll crank it up shortly and begin to flood you with
citations.
In '42 Navy PreFlight the staff was still preaching the Bernoulli
Dogma, which most all avcads had been exposed to in high school. And
it's still be taught that way today, in many schools/places. And in
the Fall of 1903, my late father was in a physics class at Indiana
University where the professor was writing equations on the
blackboard, proving that heavier-than-air machines could not fly!
For further info on fluid mechanics, look up Ludwig Prandtl and Kutta-
Jukowski...partial differential equations will help.
regards,
Bob N.
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax relapse |
On May 4, 2006, at 3:39 PM, John Hauck wrote:
> Be glad when Jack gets a little 4 stroke to play with on his FF.
> Then he can lean that little sucker out, power it down, and end up
> burning a gallon an hour. ;-)
A gallon an hour is quite
possible ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
,,in a glider. :-)
All Jack needs is for "a gallon an hour" in his two-stroke is for
MissPfer to tow his little Firefly to altitude for some good ridge lift.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weather..To fly or not to fly T.I.T.Q. |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <jtriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
Pat,
One of the best websites for learning about this is
http://www.av8n.com/how/
It is a most useful and educational resource.
Thom in Buffalo
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32855#32855
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
On May 4, 2006, at 4:49 PM, JetPilot wrote:
> I realize that choices for the firefly and firestar are limited,
> but if I flew one of those I would do my best to find a 4 stroke
> for it. Maybe the HKS ??? Only a total idiot would not realize
> how far superior a 4 stroke is to a 2 stroke.
The lighter the plane, the more superior a 2 stroke becomes.
A 40 hp 4 stroke on a legal ultralight firefly will shake the
daylights out of the pilot and plane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
| From: | "Gene Ledbetter" <gdledbetter(at)aol.com> |
Beauford,
Sorry to get into the suggestion arena a little late but thought I might share
one other possibility. I installed a new 447 on my firefly last week after 320
hrs on the original engine. The original engine was running perfectly but I
decided to go ahead and install new rather than overhaul. The difference in
price was minor and I was able to buy a short block w/o electronics through solo
aviation in Harrodsburg, KY. Solo aviation also replaced the gear box springs
and moved the electronics from the old engine to the new one.
Went on down to London and did the installation in Bryan's shop with a little over
the shoulder help.
Brought the Firefly home and did the breakin on Tuesday without any problem. Flew
today for the first time and am very pleased with the performance. Full throttle
gives 6500rpm. 5800 rpm gives 375 cht and 1025 egt. All in all, I'm
very pleased and will retorque on my next visit and be ready for the summer flying.
Now to my suggestion. My original 447 had heating problems until the engine was
really broken in. However, I also changed the needle to an 11G2 size and continue
to use that size. Today's new engine performance was achieved with that
needle.
Don't know if this will solve you problem but it's another suggestion...
Gene
--------
Gene D.
2000 Firefly
315 Hours
Brakes, Ivo
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32868#32868
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Noyer <a58r(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Weather aka what lifts a wing? |
Pat,
Here are three more that are still active:
http://user.uni-frankfurt.de/~weltner
http://amasci.com/wing/airfoil/html
http://www.aa.washington.edu/faculty/everhardt/lift.htm
regards,
Bob N.
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
Brother Ledbetter:
Thankee much for the info about the needle you are using... Will keep
that in my notes and may try it before this saga is over. I'm taking
the day off
from work tomorrow and plan to go fool around with the Nazi engine....
Will start
with the prop unload and adding enough oil to the mix to bring it to
50 to 1...
I know the prop will have some immediate effect on it, am just not
sure
whether it will be enough. I flew this thing with the prop set
roughly where it
is now (6400 WOT) for the first 80 hours or so and never had temps
anywhere near
this high... Of course that was before the new pistons and rings...
they could
well be a tad tighter than original, even though they were carefully
fitted by
the pros... If tightness is a factor, they should loosen up gradually
and the temps
should come down.
Interestingly enough, reliable sources have forwarded me some
references to
higher CHT limits than I had previously seen for the 447... with an
absolute redline
of 480 and discussions about folks routinely operating them in the 400
to 425 range.
Makes me feel a little better, but I wonder about the oil coking up on
pistons and
rings at those temps... I reckon I'll find out if mine don't come
down.
Best of luck with your new engine, Gene... hope it's a keeper.
Regards,
Beauford
FF#076
Brandon, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene Ledbetter" <gdledbetter(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 7:17 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax Relapse
>
> Beauford,
>
> Sorry to get into the suggestion arena a little late but thought I
might share one other possibility. I installed a new 447 on my
firefly last week after 320 hrs on the original engine. The original
engine was running perfectly but I decided to go ahead and install new
rather than overhaul. The difference in price was minor and I was
able to buy a short block w/o electronics through solo aviation in
Harrodsburg, KY. Solo aviation also replaced the gear box springs and
moved the electronics from the old engine to the new one.
>
> Went on down to London and did the installation in Bryan's shop with
a little over the shoulder help.
>
> Brought the Firefly home and did the breakin on Tuesday without any
problem. Flew today for the first time and am very pleased with the
performance. Full throttle gives 6500rpm. 5800 rpm gives 375 cht and
1025 egt. All in all, I'm very pleased and will retorque on my next
visit and be ready for the summer flying.
>
> Now to my suggestion. My original 447 had heating problems until
the engine was really broken in. However, I also changed the needle
to an 11G2 size and continue to use that size. Today's new engine
performance was achieved with that needle.
>
> Don't know if this will solve you problem but it's another
suggestion...
>
> Gene
>
> --------
> Gene D.
> 2000 Firefly
> 315 Hours
> Brakes, Ivo
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32868#32868
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
In a message dated 5/4/2006 3:51:06 P.M. Central Standard Time,
orcabonita(at)hotmail.com writes:
I realize that choices for the firefly and firestar are limited, but if I
flew one of those I would do my best to find a 4 stroke for it. Maybe the HKS
??? Only a total idiot would not realize how far superior a 4 stroke is to
a 2 stroke.
Michael A. Bigelow
Yes the choices are limited! The HKS is NOT a choice, as it weighs too
much for the firefly. Do You know of any reasonable choice other than a Rotax
447????????? Just bear in mind that the engine cannot weigh over about 80
lbs with redrive. Question for you----------------- Why do you feel the need
to call other list members names????????????
Ed Diebel ( Firefly # 62 Just waiting for the 45 lb
rotary engine to be available)
Do Not Archive!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
I've been running over 19 years with *unreliable* 2-stroke engines on my Firestar.
How's this possible if they are so unreliable? I've had two of them, a 377
and a 447. This last one has never been overhauled in 450 hours.
Ralph
Original Firestar
19 years flying it
-- "JetPilot" wrote:
beauford(at)tampabay.rr.c wrote:
> Kolbers and Kolbettes:
>
> -- Running Amsoil Saber 100 to one, but I'm mixing it at 70 to one
> -- Ran a test tank of Pennzoil AC 50 to 1, no change in problem
>
> Brandon, FL
Amsoil 2 cycle oil is horrible stuff. I dont care how they market the oil, 100
- 1 is not enough oil in the gas. 70 to 1 is not even enough. Amsoil leaves
behind a sticky mess and fouls plugs and makes rings stick. Motorcycle guys
that run 2 stroke bikes run other oils.
Amsoil is an inferrior product that relys on a pyramid sales network that sells
everyone on the fact that it is better. But Amsoil sucks, and never has held
its own in the open market.
John Hawk is very correct, 2 stroke engines are unreliable and very prone to problems
and failures. They can be made to run under perfect conditions, but sooner
or later engines encounter less than perfect conditions, shit happens. Even
motorcycles, boats and jetskis are going towards 4 stroke design now days.
I realize that choices for the firefly and firestar are limited, but if I flew
one of those I would do my best to find a 4 stroke for it. Maybe the HKS ???
Only a total idiot would not realize how far superior a 4 stroke is to a 2 stroke.
Michael A. Bigelow
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=32828#32828
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)msbit.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
> Only a total idiot would not realize how far superior a 4 stroke is to
> a 2 stroke.
Damn! Again! My engine jus' doan like bein' talked to like that. I don't mind,
but the fool engine thinks yer makin' fun of it and now it's all riled up. Now
if
you was to apologise, like I know you're gonna.........
Jim Baker
580.788.2779
Elmore City, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
At 08:57 PM 5/4/2006, you wrote:
> Of course that was before the new pistons and rings...
>they could
>well be a tad tighter than original, even though they were carefully
>fitted by
>the pros... If tightness is a factor, they should loosen up gradually
>and the temps
>should come down.
I'll quote some old articles on the 447:
When the CHT runs hot and the EGT gauge is normal.
A lack of lubrication will only show on the "CHT gauge."
This condition will not be indicted by an EGT gauge.
Nor will the lack of cooling air caused by a slipping fan belt
or partial blockage of the intake opening.
The EGT gauge will, however, indicate an air leak or lean
mixture long before the CHT gauge.
Piston and rings tighter than specs, of course,
will only show on the CHT.
These articles also talk about "preignition" and timing showing
both gages running hotter.
Are they still putting point ignitions on the 447's ?
That is one of the reasons I switched to the 503.
Sully
http://www.800-airwolf.com/pdffiles/ARTICLES/part12.pdf
http://www.800-airwolf.com/pdffiles/ARTICLES/part38.pdf
http://www.800-airwolf.com/pdffiles/ARTICLES/part24.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
At 02:08 AM 5/5/2006, you wrote:
>
>I'll quote some old articles on the 447:
>
>When the CHT runs hot and the EGT gauge is normal.
>
>A lack of lubrication will only show on the "CHT gauge."
>This condition will not be indicted by an EGT gauge.
>(Nor will the lack of cooling air caused by a slipping fan belt
>or partial blockage of the intake opening.)
Maybe should clarify - "the lack of cooling air caused by a slipping fan belt
or partial blockage of the intake opening will only show up on the CHT gage."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
On May 5, 2006, at 6:00 AM, Beauford wrote:
> if it
> kills me, George Alexander gets my Timex.
He deserves it . He is a good guy.
Hi Geo.
:-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
On May 5, 2006, at 6:00 AM, Beauford wrote:
> I'll give you a follow-up report later today... this ought to be
> interesting..
I'd try a higher octane fuel, especially in your climate.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
Richard
I really don't have a weight but I figure it is about 20lbs. more than a
Rotax 912. My VW uses the Valley redrive and isn't as smooth as I would
like. There are two gear redrives now available that will work on a VW and
hopefully they have some form of harmonic dampening. My redrive doesn't
other than the belt.
The noise I'm told is about like a GA airplane. Inside the cockpit it is
loud. I have a four into one exhaust system and it isn't too bad due to the
low RPMs. It doesn't scream like the high RPM VW dune buggy engines. Those
that fly their VWs with four short pipes make some real noise but my engine
noise is hard to tell from the prop noise. I had a motor cycle muffler on
the engine at one point. It was a baffled glass pack that blew the packing
after a few hours so it didn't contribute much to noise reduction. More
importantly I found it cut the power significantly so I don't use it any
more.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2006 10:21 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax Relapse
>
> Not to worry, I have enjoyed your posts for years and know that you are
> not a slinger of mud.
>
> Actually got very close to going to a VW with Valley reduction drive on
> it for my MKIII, I was really impressed watching Valley's demonstrator
> airplane several years ago at Oshkosh, may go that way when the 582
> comes up for overhaul. Most of the time I have enough power, since I
> usually fly solo. But carrying a passenger out of my short strip with
> big power lines nearby - more power is a good thing.
> 2 considerations:
> What do you figure your total powerplant weight is?
> How quiet is it? My airstrip is right beside the subdivision, so my 582
> has both after muffler and intake silencers on it, it is vital that I be
> a quiet neighbor. Is the VW powersystem really quiet? Or just sort of
> "Street legal but loud?" Because if it is not quiet, then I would have
> to make it quiet, and that would probably be more weight.
>
> Thanks,
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
> Richard & Martha Neilsen wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hey Richard
>>
>> I don't want to get in the middle of any mud slinging but you could look
>> at
>> a VW. The price would be comparable but I'm sorry you would have to live
>> with a bit more power if you bought the big engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse/VW Weight and Noise |
| I really don't have a weight but I figure it is about 20lbs. more
than a
| Rotax 912.
|
| The noise I'm told is about like a GA airplane.
|
| Rick Neilsen
Well........if we knew how much the all up weight was of a 912UL or
912ULS, added 20 lbs to it, we would know how much Rick's VW weighs.
Wonder how a 912ULS in an old 60's era VW Bug would react. Bet it
would be a screamer right out of the box.
What prop are you running on the VW, Rick?
If it is anything other than a good two blade fixed pitch wooden prop,
it is going to make a lot of racket, same, same our 912's with Warp
Drive Props.
What does Valley Redrive use for torsional vibration dampening?
Bet you would see good results with the 912ULS gear box with slip
clutch. I saw a lot of difference in vibration, during cruise
especially, after I had the slip clutch installed on my 912ULS.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
> of resentment amongst List members? There are more gracious ways
> to espouse
> your own opinions than calling our 2-stroke pilots "total idiots."
> Dennis Kirby
Yep! I guess "2 stroke" pilots encompasses about 99% of the Kolb
List. I still fly them on occassion, when the opportunity arises.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse/VW Weight and Noise |
John/all
I have a three blade 72 inch F model Powerfin prop that turns 2000 RPM at
cruise. The redrive I have has no harmonic dampening in it other than the
dampening the Kevlar belts allow and that isn't much. Yes a rotax redrive
(or one of the two copies that are available for the VW) would be a good
addition.
The slipper clutch you talk about. You say it helps at cruise? I ASSUMED
that it was a centrifugal clutch that would lock up at high RPMs. Tell me
more about how it works.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2006 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax Relapse/VW Weight and Noise
>
> | I really don't have a weight but I figure it is about 20lbs. more
> than a
> | Rotax 912.
> |
> | The noise I'm told is about like a GA airplane.
> |
> | Rick Neilsen
>
> Well........if we knew how much the all up weight was of a 912UL or
> 912ULS, added 20 lbs to it, we would know how much Rick's VW weighs.
>
> Wonder how a 912ULS in an old 60's era VW Bug would react. Bet it
> would be a screamer right out of the box.
>
> What prop are you running on the VW, Rick?
>
> If it is anything other than a good two blade fixed pitch wooden prop,
> it is going to make a lot of racket, same, same our 912's with Warp
> Drive Props.
>
> What does Valley Redrive use for torsional vibration dampening?
>
> Bet you would see good results with the 912ULS gear box with slip
> clutch. I saw a lot of difference in vibration, during cruise
> especially, after I had the slip clutch installed on my 912ULS.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse/VW Weight and Noise |
| The slipper clutch you talk about. You say it helps at cruise? I
ASSUMED
| that it was a centrifugal clutch that would lock up at high RPMs.
Tell me
| more about how it works.
|
| Rick Neilsen
No sir. One of those slipper clutches is the last thing I would want
to fly with on an airplane. They worked ok on my oldest brother's
Cushman motor scooter back in the 40's, and on my chain saw and weed
eater today. But don't think I want to go whizzing around in the air
with one.
Prior to the slipper clutch, the anti-torsional vibration dampening
was accomplished through a "dog and ramp" system under a lot of
pressure exerted by a number of very large domed spring washers. The
valleys, between the ramps were very narrow.
The slipper clutch uses a similar system with a few changes.
1-Valleys between ramps are much wider.
2-A multi-disk clutch pack which is spring loaded, is added to the
system. This clutch actually slips a little when necessary to assist
in dampening torsional vibration. Not only on start up and lower
speeds, but throughout the rpm range of the engine.
The slipper clutch works great. It needs to be inspected
periodically, like 400 to 500 hours. I need to fly down to Ronnie
Smith's and let him reshim mine to bring it back to specs if it has
loosened up enough to require the adjustment. Probably have to wait
until after MV before I will have time to get down there.
Hope this explain the difference between the slipper and the
centrifugal clutches.
john h
hauck's holler, alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos" <grageda(at)innw.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Weather aka What lifts a wing? |
Hi Guys & Gals,
Hmmm what makes a wing lift? I believe aerodynamics has nothing to do =
with it.=20
Cash is what makes a wing lift! No two ways about it, no money =3Dno =
flying.
Sad but true I'm sorry to say.
I have the receipts to prove it....
Best Regards
Carlos G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Weather aka What lifts a wing? |
-- "Carlos" wrote:
Hi Guys & Gals,
Hmmm what makes a wing lift? I believe aerodynamics has nothing to do =
with it.=20
Cash is what makes a wing lift! No two ways about it, no money =3Dno =
flying.
Sad but true I'm sorry to say.
I have the receipts to prove it....
Best Regards
Carlos G.
..... and the faster they go, the cash amount rises exponentially!
Ralph
Original Firestar
19 years flying it (still cheap flying)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
| Obviously, I'm thinking about the implications of continuing to run
| this thing with the existing CHT differential... the EGT's are
| running identically... no difference between cylinders.
/
| Beauford
What kind of engine instruments are you using? Steam gauges or the
digital thing, ahhhhhhhhhhh....I remembered the name, EIS? Are they
temperature compensated? or do you have to take care of that operation
in your head?
Been a long time since I worried about temp compesation, but the base
line is 68 or 70F. Based on OAT, one must add or subtract the
difference to get "actual temp".
If unloading the prop brought the CHT down and the EGT is in the
green, seems to me you are headed in the right direction.
Nothing associated with our sport is "precision", from airplanes, to
engines, to instruments, and pilots. If the 447 is making power,
running good, instruments are in the green, I'd fly and enjoy it. If
it breaks, you know what to do. ;-)
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
>
>
> What kind of engine instruments are you using? Steam gauges or the
> digital thing, ahhhhhhhhhhh....I remembered the name, EIS? Are they
> temperature compensated? or do you have to take care of that
operation
> in your head?
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
Ooooops... excuse the "blank" I just fired...
I am running the EIS... and it is supposedly temp corrected...
Beauford
----- Original Message -----
From: "Beauford" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2006 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax Relapse
>
>
> >
> >
> > What kind of engine instruments are you using? Steam gauges or
the
> > digital thing, ahhhhhhhhhhh....I remembered the name, EIS? Are
they
> > temperature compensated? or do you have to take care of that
> operation
> > in your head?
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Minimum pilot weight |
| From: | "galen shirley" <oneaviator(at)msn.com> |
hello group,
I just bought a used Firestar II with no manuals and need to know what the minimum
pilot weight is or, Where can I find weight and balance information.
Thanks
Galen
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33142#33142
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Minimum pilot weight |
| From: | "John Jung" <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
galen shirley wrote:
> hello group,
> I just bought a used Firestar II with no manuals and need to know what the minimum
pilot weight is or, Where can I find weight and balance information.
>
> Thanks
> Galen
Galen,
On Firestar II's, the minimum pilot weight is determined by the aft CG limit with
full fuel. On mine, it is about 150 pounds, but is different on each plane.
So if you didn't get any CG info with the plane, I suggest that you weigh the
plane and calculate the minumum. I don't have my plans handy, but I do have an
Excel program for calculating Firestar II w&b. I do have an extra set of plans,
too.
--------
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
Surprise, AZ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33153#33153
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Minimum pilot weight |
| From: | "galen shirley" <oneaviator(at)msn.com> |
Thanks for the reply - Would you send me the excel spreedsheet and I would be willing
to buy the set of plans from you. I weigh 140 lbs so I will have to add
some weight somewhere.
Thanks
Galen
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33155#33155
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
| From: | "Dave Bigelow" <up_country(at)hotmail.com> |
Beauford,
I've followed your 447 adventures with great interest. As I understand it, the
engine ran normally after the Lockwood Aviation overhaul. You mention running
with Amsoil.
A number of years ago, I used Amsoil at ratios varying from 100:1 to 50:1 in a
Koenig 3 cylinder two stroke. The amsoil left a a black gunky mess in the ring
area. I discontinued using it.
The rings in Rotax engins are of a design that cannot tolerate a bunch of junk
in the grooves. I'd guess that when you pull the pistons and look at the rings,
you'll find the Amsoil residue. When you clean things up and reassemble, try
using California Power Systems AV2 two stroke oil at 50:1. It's formulated
for Rotax engines. Another good choice is Pennsoil Two Stroke oil for aircooled
engines.
Let us know how it goes.
--------
Dave Bigelow
Kamuela, Hawaii
FS2, Rotax 503 DCDI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33182#33182
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
In a message dated 5/6/2006 9:39:54 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
gtalexander(at)att.net writes:
there is a brief record of his excursions yesterday in his endeavor
to deal with the problem of high CHTs.
For those who are interested, you can view this record at:
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbplanes/BeaufordCHT
George,
That was a great record you put together. Neato!
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine ideas (sleepless night) |
Hi Ed, Jerry here. On our Fire Fly 447 we planned for an hour and 30
minutes and then got real serious about getting it on the
ground. Not much reserve. Looks like were both experiencing about
the same fuel burn.
jerb
At 06:30 PM 4/30/2006, you wrote:
>
>In a message dated 4/30/2006 10:26:22 A.M. Central Standard Time,
>jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net writes:
>
>As far as I am concerned the Victor 1 is far
>superior to the 447. It always starts on the first or second turn over,
>idles smoothly at or below 2,000 rpm, is much quieter, and burns from 1.5 to
>1.0 gph less than the 447 at the same cruise speeds.
>
>Mounting the Victor 1+ was not easy, but it has immeasurably improved the
>quality of my flight time.
>
>Have a good trip.
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Winchester, IN
>
>Jack,
> I seem to be getting 1 hour and 45 min of flight time on 5
>gallons. Does that sound about the same as you got with your
>447? Seems like I
>went 41 miles at 65 mph and burned about 2 and 3/4 gallons. I was thinking
>the 447 has a safe range of 50 or 60 miles and have a gallon or so
>left. What
>did you consider a safe range with your 447, and now with the victor 1+ with
>minimal headwind?
>
>Ed (firefly #62)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
Do you have EGT's gauges, if so what are they doing?
Just for grins, have you checked the fan belt is ok and have you have
been into the carb recently, i.e. the main jet needle. Has it been
reassembled correctly, its easy to get the needle clip on the wrong
side of the white spring cup. It will run but not properly.
jerb
At 08:05 AM 5/2/2006, you wrote:
>
>Kolbers and Kolbettes:
>
>Once again the mighty 447 asserts its total dominance over
>a thoroughly beaten, sniveling and craven Beauford....
>
>Last 5 hours -- Head temps are too high... they both climb steadily at =
>full power, reaching
>400 plus in about 20 seconds... and the fan-end cylinder remains hot, =
>stabilizing
>about 390 when one throttles back to normal (5800) cruise. Rear cylinder =
>comes
>down to about 360.
>
>Data:
>-- Engine had complete top end rebuild at Lockwood 16 hours ago...new =
>pistons
>and rings. Has consistently run hotter since rebuild, but not this hot =
>until
>last five hours.
>-- Swapped plug thermocouples...verified front is hot cylinder and temp =
>reads accurately
>-- Same jetting as always... it previously ran at 340 CHT on these same =
>jets
>and with needle in this same (second) notch
>-- No change in prop loading... turns 6050 static, 6450 wot in flight
>-- Temps remain together up to 4400 rpm...then front takes off as =
>throttle
>is pushed up further...eventually gets to 40 degree difference
>-- Both EGT's remain normal (1020) at WOT... 1090 at cruise.
>-- Plugs are clean and pretty...good color,slightly on light side... no =
>trace
>of excess carbon
>-- Running Amsoil Saber 100 to one, but I'm mixing it at 70 to one
>-- Ran a test tank of Pennzoil AC 50 to 1, no change in problem
>-- All new gaskets throughout top of engine... heads and both manifolds
>are torqued and re-torqued. No evidence of leakage at head or exhaust =
>gaskets.
>--Have not yet pulled exhaust to verify rings are free..that is next =
>step, followed
>by compression check.
>
>I'm thinking air leak. Anyone have any other "hot" ideas?
>Also, is there any reliable way to leak-check the case and crank
>seals without tearing down the engine...?
>
>Beat-up Beauford
>FF#076
>Brandon, FL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ElleryWeld(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum pilot weight |
OK to do your weight and balance put plane in the flying attitude with no
fuel or people aboard and a scale under each wheel Left Main, Right Main,& Tail
Wheel record these weights then hang a plumb bob line even with the very front
of the nose cone and call that your Datum line and measure and record from
that line to the center of your tail wheel ,mains ,fuel ,pilot ,passenger
,parachute
The CG of a person is at the front of the stomach (navel)
add your total weights together
add your total Datum measurments together this is your arm
weight times arm equals Moment
Weight devied by moment equals CG in inches
this should tell you where your CG is but I am not sure where it should be on
a firestar 11 maybe someone else on the list can tell you the window of your
model
I hope this helps you
Ellery in original firestar
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GALEN SHIRLEY" <oneaviator(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Minimum pilot weight |
Ellery, Thanks for the response. I have done W & B on other planes but I
did not know where the datum point was that was established by Kolb. I got
the window percentages for the Firestar II from another member on the list.
Now I can get busy.
Thanks again
Galen
>From: ElleryWeld(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Minimum pilot weight
>Date: Sun, 7 May 2006 07:21:21 EDT
>
>
>OK to do your weight and balance put plane in the flying attitude with no
>fuel or people aboard and a scale under each wheel Left Main, Right Main,&
>Tail
>Wheel record these weights then hang a plumb bob line even with the very
>front
>of the nose cone and call that your Datum line and measure and record from
>that line to the center of your tail wheel ,mains ,fuel ,pilot ,passenger
>,parachute
>
>The CG of a person is at the front of the stomach (navel)
>
>add your total weights together
>add your total Datum measurments together this is your arm
>weight times arm equals Moment
>Weight devied by moment equals CG in inches
>
>this should tell you where your CG is but I am not sure where it should be
>on
>a firestar 11 maybe someone else on the list can tell you the window of
>your
>model
>I hope this helps you
>
>Ellery in original firestar
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Slipper Clutch |
Will it fit the 503/B-box engines?
|
| Tx,
| Frank Clyma
Frank/Gang:
The clutch is an integral part of the anti-torsional vibration system
for the 912 series only.
john h
mkIII
Mobile, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: My Nose skid hoop |
Creates a lot of drag doesn't it?
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: weight & balance |
| With zero trim on the little springy gadget, the plane is neutral
at
| cruise
| and slightly nose high with reduced power.
| -BB
Bob/Gang:
My mkIII is neutral in pitch trim with power off. Bring up the power
and nose up forced trim is required. All of the mkIII's I have flown
trim out about the same.
A lot of pitch change can be made by adjusting the leading edge of the
horizontal stabilizer up and down. For my mkIII, once I found the
sweet spot, I have not changed the position. Even after installing an
11 lb Maule Tundra Tailwheel, Miss P'fer still needs nose up trim for
cruise, and during power off, she rides pretty much tail low.
Never added weight to nose or tail to bring the numbers on the weight
and balance together. I figure weight and balance is done in a static
situation. In flight, a lot of things are changing on Kolbs. As long
as mine flies well, stalls nose first, has plenty of control
authority, both pitch up and down, I am happy.
Two up in mkIII's normally requires a lot of nose of pitch with power
on, and little or no nose up pitch, power off. Most of my flying is
solo, which I prefer. Airplane performs much better without the extra
load up front.
Loaded for long cross country flights, 150 lbs of fuel and 125 lbs of
gear are stowed behind the bulk head. A small amount finds it way to
the left seat, behind the left seat, and about half a dozen MRE's go
up in the nose. Takeoff weight is very close to 1,200 lbs. She flew
well with the 582, 912ul and now with the 912uls. A great little
airplane that continues to satisfy my flying requirements. Still
haven't found anything to replace her with.
john h
mkIII - 2450+ hours
912uls- 1150+ hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: My Nose skid hoop |
| From: | "Ralph Hoover" <flht99reh(at)columbus.rr.com> |
Posted: Sun May 07, 2006 3:37 am Post subject: My Nose skid hoop
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Creates a lot of drag doesn't it?
[Laughing] [Laughing]
Well, John, I noted some slipery playing with the boy on the 'Drag" thing. I
won't show you the picture of my firestar with mud flaps, then! Ha
Hilbilly Ralph in mud up to my ....... and my pick-up on blocks! [Twisted Evil]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33308#33308
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: WIND INDICATOR |
| From: | "Ralph Hoover" <flht99reh(at)columbus.rr.com> |
Bill,
I have to agree with you. I used to be in Astronomy and of course, the last thing
we wanted was clouds. Clouds are fliers friends because the let us know what
the movement of air is way up. Last week I was at my instructors field and the
clouds were going in two directions. And where they me was shear. Later in
the day, no clouds and the air was stable. I have been loking up and watching
the clouds a great deal more since I got into flying than any time before. The
weatherman doesn't have anything on us fliers!
Head in the clouds here in Ohio Ralph
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33310#33310
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Communication |
| From: | "Ralph Hoover" <flht99reh(at)columbus.rr.com> |
Well, thanks to the kind heart of John Jung, I now have a pair of DRE-2000 headsets.
Even at list of $ 129 they would be a good deal. But John did me a deal
and I had an opertunity to use them on Saturday. To me they hear great. The mic
picks-up real well and the hear-yerself aspect is great. The noise limiting
is really good and the earcovering was comfortable. The mic stays near our lips
and the cords flex well. I don't know how much better it could have gotten.
thank you John. I would love to get a radio in as good of a deal as the headset
was.
As I examined the internet to see what John was offering me, $ 129.00 was the Best
price out there. As a matter of interest, I went to the DRE web site and talked
with them. They indicated that the DRE-2000 was no longer being made. Nothing
wrong with them just too much of a mix. They offered me a DRE-4000 for $
20.00 off the $ 149.00 price. If anyone would be interested, go to their site
call them on the phone and ask for the deal.
Now I hear ya here in Ohio, Ralph!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33311#33311
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ElleryWeld(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar Wing parts on eBay |
That guy posted a list of parts and it looks like its just some small tail
controll linkeage parts with the wing kit But I dont see any H-Braces there
anywhere
Ellery
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
| From: | "Eugene Zimmerman" <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
Here is the pict again.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33402#33402
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/bt_flying_273.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: re: Rotax Relapse |
>Bill did you notice how much up elevator is required for straight and
>level ?
Eugene,
It looks like he is climbing. Compare the bottom longerons to the horizon.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | What training do I need? |
| From: | "DieselsRcool" <LarryB(at)LBMaps.com> |
After about 5+yrs of not flying I have decided to venture forth and find a Kolb
of some sort and get back into it. I'm leaning toward the Firestar due to it's
conventional controls/construction, simplicity, folding wings, and good looks.
I have 1k+ hours in taildraggers, mostly Luscome, KR2 and Baby Ace. I have
no ultralight time and am looking for opinions from Kolb pilots as to what kind
of a check-out I should work towards.
Also, I'm currently looking for a non/flying damaged or incomplete project, or
complete flying plane for a decent price. Any advise in this would be greatly
appreciated.
My current hobby/job is producing Garmin GPS maps of Baja Mexico. I want to add
the KOLB to my toolbox for mapping in this area so simplicity,durability and
trailerability is a must. I think the FireStar will fill the bill.
Larry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33482#33482
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | russ kinne <kinnepix(at)earthlink.net> |
Pat
I've been away 2 weex. Did you get info on Crossfield?
Best, rushed,
Russ
On Apr 30, 2006, at 2:40 PM, pat ladd wrote:
> Chat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry Frantz <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
Hey Eugene,
Whoaaaaa! Eagle eye at work!
Terry - Firefly #95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ray anderson <rsanoa(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What training do I need? |
A Luscomb flyer won't have any trouble getting checked out in any of the Kolbs.
After about 5+yrs of not flying I have decided to venture forth and find a Kolb
of some sort and get back into it. I'm leaning toward the Firestar due to it's
conventional controls/construction, simplicity, folding wings, and good looks.
I have 1k+ hours in taildraggers, mostly Luscome, KR2 and Baby Ace. I have
no ultralight time and am looking for opinions from Kolb pilots as to what kind
of a check-out I should work towards.
Also, I'm currently looking for a non/flying damaged or incomplete project, or
complete flying plane for a decent price. Any advise in this would be greatly
appreciated.
My current hobby/job is producing Garmin GPS maps of Baja Mexico. I want to add
the KOLB to my toolbox for mapping in this area so simplicity,durability and
trailerability is a must. I think the FireStar will fill the bill.
Larry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33482#33482
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Relapse |
| From: | "Possum" <possums(at)mindspring.com> |
George Alexander wrote:
> Jack:
> Can't let this go on...... Eugene was right... it is a doctored picture I had
done. In addition to the up elevator, note the conspicuous absence of a tail
wheel and look closely at the mains.... you will see that they are kind of fuzzy
looking around the edges.
>
You can't belive anything you see on the internet.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33499#33499
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/after_201.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/before_209.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: What training do I need? |
I'd be very interested in seeing some of those Baja maps. I have a Garmin
196 and an eTrex Legend, and I've covered a fair amount of ground in the
Baja. Lar.
----- Original Message -----
From: "DieselsRcool" <LarryB(at)LBMaps.com>
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 1:59 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: What training do I need?
>
> After about 5+yrs of not flying I have decided to venture forth and find a
> Kolb of some sort and get back into it. I'm leaning toward the Firestar
> due to it's conventional controls/construction, simplicity, folding wings,
> and good looks. I have 1k+ hours in taildraggers, mostly Luscome, KR2 and
> Baby Ace. I have no ultralight time and am looking for opinions from Kolb
> pilots as to what kind of a check-out I should work towards.
>
> Also, I'm currently looking for a non/flying damaged or incomplete
> project, or complete flying plane for a decent price. Any advise in this
> would be greatly appreciated.
>
> My current hobby/job is producing Garmin GPS maps of Baja Mexico. I want
> to add the KOLB to my toolbox for mapping in this area so
> simplicity,durability and trailerability is a must. I think the FireStar
> will fill the bill.
> Larry
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33482#33482
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What training do I need? |
Larry,If you can consider the KXP model and a 503,Works great for me + have
extra power when needed Jay Carter E Liverpool Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "DieselsRcool" <LarryB(at)LBMaps.com>
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 1:59 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: What training do I need?
>
> After about 5+yrs of not flying I have decided to venture forth and find a
Kolb of some sort and get back into it. I'm leaning toward the Firestar due
to it's conventional controls/construction, simplicity, folding wings, and
good looks. I have 1k+ hours in taildraggers, mostly Luscome, KR2 and Baby
Ace. I have no ultralight time and am looking for opinions from Kolb pilots
as to what kind of a check-out I should work towards.
>
> Also, I'm currently looking for a non/flying damaged or incomplete
project, or complete flying plane for a decent price. Any advise in this
would be greatly appreciated.
>
> My current hobby/job is producing Garmin GPS maps of Baja Mexico. I want
to add the KOLB to my toolbox for mapping in this area so
simplicity,durability and trailerability is a must. I think the FireStar
will fill the bill.
> Larry
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33482#33482
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | landing in the Oregon Outback! |
I guess its my turn for a sad tale of woe and regret. Its gonna be a bit =
lengthy, so either delete now or settle back.
My wife and I just closed on a property in the Eastern Oregon Desert. =
It is something that we both wanted, a 2600 foot airstrip and a cinder =
block hanger 40x50 for me and quiet, limitless view with a swimming pool =
and endless areas with no fences, to ride her horse for her. Everything =
was working out pretty good, We no sooner closed on the property than we =
were able to sell our house of 28 yrs here in Klamath. We have been =
making trip after trip taking stuff, mostly farming stuff, to the new =
house. A six and half hour drive each way. We had just taken a large =
truck full of stuff and had finished unloading most of it, when I see a =
falcon fly by, mine! She was really tired of the rides over and back =
riding in her hood so that she would keep quiet, so she sat outside and =
pulled and tugged on her jesses and leash until she pulled loose and off =
to see the wizard she goes. She made one pass at a quail that I was =
using for a lure and decided that she liked flying much better than =
food. Then she wouldn't let me get close to her again. I had invested a =
year of training on this bird and she was showing a lot of promise. It =
was really sad to loose her now, plus she was hampered by the jesses and =
swivel still attached to her. (major guilt trip)
I had taken my Firestar over on a earlier trip, but hadn't flown it =
since last October, and I really wanted to do an annual before flying. =
Well I had fired it up and had fresh gas in it, and it had preformed =
well as usual. So when the winds calmed down, I took off and flew it for =
about 45 minutes looking at the area around the property. She preformed =
flawlessly as usual, my first landing was just as good as it was when I =
flew last October. I was up with the daylight the next morning and it =
was dead still, so I told my wife where I wanted to look for the bird =
and took off again. I looked for about 45 minutes, flying in some pretty =
remote spots and had no luck. My fuel gages were not functioning, ( One =
of the things that I really wanted to fix) so I decided to go straight =
cross country since it was only 7 miles that way and 18 by hwy. The =
country was rising and all of a sudden the engine cut back to idle. =
First I looked and saw an area in the sage that had only grass, big =
enough to land. I was sure that I couldn't get it back out of there, but =
first things first. Now here is really where the decisions get iffy! I =
checked and CHT's and EGT's were in range. I decided that my throttle =
cable had broken and it had defaulted to idle. No big deal, I had the =
spot made with no problem. In behind the spot was a canyon, a creek =
drainage on the other. I pulled the throttle all the way back and set up =
to land. I am here to tell you that your engine at idle is pushing you =
through the air. If it pushes your airplane on the ground, it pushes =
your airplane especially well in the air. Not enough to clear a canyon, =
but enough to keep your speed up. For some reason I was distracted =
enough that I did not cut the engine. At about fifty feet, I could see =
that the area was littered with some pretty large rocks, basket ball and =
a bit bigger. I remember thinking, "this is gonna hurt". Nothing to do =
now but make the best of it, flared at way too fast a speed for a =
boulder field, and bang, a cloud of dust and I am hanging in my harness =
with gas dripping out of the vent tube. So I cut the power, released the =
harness and climbed out. The left landing leg had broken at the wheel =
axle causing the plane to nose over hard into a boulder that I would =
have other wise straddled bending the rod that the rudders are attached =
to, munching my nose cone. The rudder never hit the ground. I checked =
for injuries and found that my middle finger somehow was sprained =
because I had been holding on to the throttle. No other cuts or =
scratches, ego was sprained as well. I went back over the debris field =
which was only about 15 feet long, and found that a rock small enough to =
only hit the rim caused the left leg to break, while the other wheel =
pulled a rock about the size of two basket balls out of the ground with =
no damage to the leg.
I hiked out to the hwy "about a mile", and attempted to hitch hike back =
home. Well I walked four miles with every "honky" speeding up when they =
saw my thumb out. Apparently I don't look as trustworthy as I used to =
look. I had developed a couple of good blisters when a Mexican couple =
stopped and gave me a ride for the last 6 miles. I managed to get there =
just before the wife called up a search party. I changed shoes and =
socks, ( always wear good hiking boots when you fly), and we went back =
and took off the wings and flipped her back over to a much more =
dignified manner. I found that the front spark plug cap was off. I put =
it back on the plug and gave it a tug and it easily came off. Throttle =
cables were just fine. We then carried the wings for about 4 tenths of a =
mile to the trailer. We will go back with my quad, fasten a wheel to the =
broken leg, and pull her down the hill, across the creek and back up the =
hill on the other side. I will have to cut a fence to get her through, =
but I can repair that, then trailer her home. On my walk home I did see =
my errant falcon chasing some birds about six miles from home.
I decided to stay for a few days longer to give her a chance to get =
hungry and perhaps she would come back home. It rained a bit on Sunday =
and at dusk the wind died so I pulled out an electric RC plane that I =
had just gotten to play with. I had just set the thing down on the =
ground when there was the falcon flying over my head wondering why I =
wasn't feeding her. I hot footed it back to the house and got my quail =
and called her down. She had apparently gotten lonesome because she =
really didn't eat that much. When she was done I put her in the "fenced =
weathering pen" that I had finally gotten time to put up. She pulled her =
foot up and was apparently happy to be back. I then went out to the RC =
plane and found that it had tipped over on its nose, I had apparently =
nudged the throttle in my run to the house, so the motor was fried. That =
is how I lost two planes in two days!
I had intended to recover the plane this fall, but it appears that I =
will have to bump up the schedule a bit. I am going to put the steel =
legs and nerf tires on as well. I really don't think there is much =
damage to the frame, but of course I will not know for sure until =
stripping every thing. The wings, empennage, and boom is just fine.
Larry, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Lehman" <david(at)davidlehman.net> |
I need the aft CG limit (preferably the distance from datum, fixed point,
etc.) and the leveling points on an early Firestar...
I'm installing floats and I need to engineer the rigging...
Thanx...
David
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Level Aft CG... |
In a message dated 5/9/2006 8:47:44 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
david(at)davidlehman.net writes:
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "David Lehman"
I need the aft CG limit (preferably the distance from datum, fixed point,
etc.) and the leveling points on an early Firestar...
I'm installing floats and I need to engineer the rigging...
Thanx...
David
David,
After flying the Firefly on floats now for a year, Bryan Melborn and I have
found that there may be more critical issues on position of floats on a Kolb
other than CG. We picked a point for what would be about midpoint of the CG
range for the Firefly and placed it about an inch or so forward of the step.
This is common practice for most float installations. On a normal full power
takeoff more back pressure is required than would seem right. At reduced
throttle less back pressure is required. At SnF this year Dick Rayhill commented
that due to the high thrust line it may be better to shift the CG aft in
regard to the step. This would compensate for the high thrust line and increase
takeoff performance.
Unfortunately, it would be difficult to test this on FF #007. On the Firefly
we are building from scratch we will move the CG aft.
Despite this minor tweaking we are very please with the handling of FF#007
on floats. Due to it's light weight and other Kolb traits it handles anything
that you throw at it like a Champ.
Steve Boetto
FF#007
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: landing in the Oregon Outback! |
Larry,
As one who has been down that same road, I Welcome you to the Kolb Bender Club,
and give thanks that you are OK. I Certainly know how , after the adrenalin rush
disappates, the despair that sets in over your bent plane. But Know this,
Kolbs are awful easy to repair, and generally come out more suitable to their
owner after a repair than before. You will undoubtable use this refurbish to closer
assimilate the FireStar to your likeing, adding that small attribute here
or there, a different seat, rocket launcher, a map pocket or any varity of other
small or large customizations that will make you Kolb even more enjoyable
in the future.
Keep your chin up pard !
Don G
--------
Don G
FireFly#098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33602#33602
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Kolb-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 05/07/06 |
From: "GALEN SHIRLEY" <oneaviator(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Minimum pilot weight
Ellery, Thanks for the response. I have done W & B on other planes but I
did not know where the datum point was that was established by Kolb. I got
the window percentages for the Firestar II from another member on the list.
Now I can get busy.
Thanks again
Galen
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
Galen
It does not matter where the datum is.... but usually kolb uses the leading
edge of the wing,,, it makes for an easier problem to figure the % of wing
cord if figuring cg in % rather than inches from a given point.
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave & Eve Pelletier" <pelletier(at)cableone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: landing in the Oregon Outback! |
Larry,
So sorry to hear of your recent experience but sure glad to hear that
you weren't hurt. WHEW! Thinking about what could have happened is really
scary. Also glad to hear that your falcon came back to the roost. I'm sure
that helped a bit. Anyway, back to building, huh!
AzDave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net>
Subject: Kolb-List: landing in the Oregon Outback!
>
> I guess its my turn for a sad tale of woe and regret\
>> Larry, Oregon
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: landing in the Oregon Outback! |
Larry,
Happy to see that you were OK. Sounds like you did a real good job getting it
down in some pretty rough terrain. Good luck on the repairs and hope to see
you and Karen and the Falcon again some day.
-- Gary Haley, Cypress, TX
Quoting Larry Cottrell :
>
> I guess its my turn for a sad tale of woe and regret. Its gonna be a bit =
> lengthy, so either delete now or settle back.
> My wife and I just closed on a property in the Eastern Oregon Desert. =
> It is something that we both wanted, a 2600 foot airstrip and a cinder =
> block hanger 40x50 for me and quiet, limitless view with a swimming pool =
> and endless areas with no fences, to ride her horse for her. Everything =
> was working out pretty good, We no sooner closed on the property than we =
> were able to sell our house of 28 yrs here in Klamath. We have been =
> making trip after trip taking stuff, mostly farming stuff, to the new =
> house. A six and half hour drive each way. We had just taken a large =
> truck full of stuff and had finished unloading most of it, when I see a =
> falcon fly by, mine! She was really tired of the rides over and back =
> riding in her hood so that she would keep quiet, so she sat outside and =
> pulled and tugged on her jesses and leash until she pulled loose and off =
> to see the wizard she goes. She made one pass at a quail that I was =
> using for a lure and decided that she liked flying much better than =
> food. Then she wouldn't let me get close to her again. I had invested a =
> year of training on this bird and she was showing a lot of promise. It =
> was really sad to loose her now, plus she was hampered by the jesses and =
> swivel still attached to her. (major guilt trip)
> I had taken my Firestar over on a earlier trip, but hadn't flown it =
> since last October, and I really wanted to do an annual before flying. =
> Well I had fired it up and had fresh gas in it, and it had preformed =
> well as usual. So when the winds calmed down, I took off and flew it for =
> about 45 minutes looking at the area around the property. She preformed =
> flawlessly as usual, my first landing was just as good as it was when I =
> flew last October. I was up with the daylight the next morning and it =
> was dead still, so I told my wife where I wanted to look for the bird =
> and took off again. I looked for about 45 minutes, flying in some pretty =
> remote spots and had no luck. My fuel gages were not functioning, ( One =
> of the things that I really wanted to fix) so I decided to go straight =
> cross country since it was only 7 miles that way and 18 by hwy. The =
> country was rising and all of a sudden the engine cut back to idle. =
> First I looked and saw an area in the sage that had only grass, big =
> enough to land. I was sure that I couldn't get it back out of there, but =
> first things first. Now here is really where the decisions get iffy! I =
> checked and CHT's and EGT's were in range. I decided that my throttle =
> cable had broken and it had defaulted to idle. No big deal, I had the =
> spot made with no problem. In behind the spot was a canyon, a creek =
> drainage on the other. I pulled the throttle all the way back and set up =
> to land. I am here to tell you that your engine at idle is pushing you =
> through the air. If it pushes your airplane on the ground, it pushes =
> your airplane especially well in the air. Not enough to clear a canyon, =
> but enough to keep your speed up. For some reason I was distracted =
> enough that I did not cut the engine. At about fifty feet, I could see =
> that the area was littered with some pretty large rocks, basket ball and =
> a bit bigger. I remember thinking, "this is gonna hurt". Nothing to do =
> now but make the best of it, flared at way too fast a speed for a =
> boulder field, and bang, a cloud of dust and I am hanging in my harness =
> with gas dripping out of the vent tube. So I cut the power, released the =
> harness and climbed out. The left landing leg had broken at the wheel =
> axle causing the plane to nose over hard into a boulder that I would =
> have other wise straddled bending the rod that the rudders are attached =
> to, munching my nose cone. The rudder never hit the ground. I checked =
> for injuries and found that my middle finger somehow was sprained =
> because I had been holding on to the throttle. No other cuts or =
> scratches, ego was sprained as well. I went back over the debris field =
> which was only about 15 feet long, and found that a rock small enough to =
> only hit the rim caused the left leg to break, while the other wheel =
> pulled a rock about the size of two basket balls out of the ground with =
> no damage to the leg.
> I hiked out to the hwy "about a mile", and attempted to hitch hike back =
> home. Well I walked four miles with every "honky" speeding up when they =
> saw my thumb out. Apparently I don't look as trustworthy as I used to =
> look. I had developed a couple of good blisters when a Mexican couple =
> stopped and gave me a ride for the last 6 miles. I managed to get there =
> just before the wife called up a search party. I changed shoes and =
> socks, ( always wear good hiking boots when you fly), and we went back =
> and took off the wings and flipped her back over to a much more =
> dignified manner. I found that the front spark plug cap was off. I put =
> it back on the plug and gave it a tug and it easily came off. Throttle =
> cables were just fine. We then carried the wings for about 4 tenths of a =
> mile to the trailer. We will go back with my quad, fasten a wheel to the =
> broken leg, and pull her down the hill, across the creek and back up the =
> hill on the other side. I will have to cut a fence to get her through, =
> but I can repair that, then trailer her home. On my walk home I did see =
> my errant falcon chasing some birds about six miles from home.
> I decided to stay for a few days longer to give her a chance to get =
> hungry and perhaps she would come back home. It rained a bit on Sunday =
> and at dusk the wind died so I pulled out an electric RC plane that I =
> had just gotten to play with. I had just set the thing down on the =
> ground when there was the falcon flying over my head wondering why I =
> wasn't feeding her. I hot footed it back to the house and got my quail =
> and called her down. She had apparently gotten lonesome because she =
> really didn't eat that much. When she was done I put her in the "fenced =
> weathering pen" that I had finally gotten time to put up. She pulled her =
> foot up and was apparently happy to be back. I then went out to the RC =
> plane and found that it had tipped over on its nose, I had apparently =
> nudged the throttle in my run to the house, so the motor was fried. That =
> is how I lost two planes in two days!
> I had intended to recover the plane this fall, but it appears that I =
> will have to bump up the schedule a bit. I am going to put the steel =
> legs and nerf tires on as well. I really don't think there is much =
> damage to the frame, but of course I will not know for sure until =
> stripping every thing. The wings, empennage, and boom is just fine.
>
> Larry, Oregon
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What training do I need? |
| From: | "John Jung" <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
DieselsRcool wrote:
> I have no ultralight time and am looking for opinions from Kolb pilots as to
what kind of a check-out I should work towards.
Larry,
I suggest that you get yourself current. A current pilot should be able to make
the transition. Here are a couple of differences in Kolb type aircraft and what
you are used to:
Kolbs slow down much quicker, and will stall if you pull off the power to make
a flair on landing. Kolbs need so little flair that a lot of pilots say there
is none at all. New Kolb pilots are encouraged to keep power on to a few feet
of the ground. The other thing is that there is not much of a reference for the
attitude or direction that you are used to from the engine cowling. This matters
to some and not so much to others.
--------
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
Surprise, AZ
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33644#33644
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| We have a local pilot (ex-mil & corporate) who knew them
both,
| thought the world of Crossfield. Won't comment on Yeager. 'Nuff
said.
|
| Ed in JXN
Ed/Gang:
Major difference between Crossfield and Yeager, although both were
test pilots. General Yeager flew fighters in three wars: WWII,
Korea, and VN. Crossfield was a civilian.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Started getting the mkIII ready for the cross country flight to MV and
Alvord Desert. Today I found the throttle levers, springs and
stanchions that secure the bottom of the throttle springs, very close
to failure.
After 1122.2 hours, the above parts are trash. Always find stuff to
fix just prior to a departure date. ;-)
Got in contact with Bing Carbs USA. The have the parts in stock.
Decided to replace float bowl gaskets, floats, the above parts plus a
spare pair of throttle springs.
Total bill: $330.00. ;-( That takes the fun out of flying. Pushes
me closer to my antique tractors all the time.
Floats were 31.00 a piece times 4 ea. Pins in the float bowls are
still good, but the pins on the floats are worn considerably on each
side. Luckily we can flip the floats over to take advantage of the
other side of the pin.
Springs were 7.00 ea.
Throttle levers were 30 something dollars.
Brackets for attaching bottom of throttle springs about the same as
the levers.
Gotta have them though. That 7.00 spring is the link between fly and
land. It pulls the throttle to the WOT position. Should one of them
break, it is forced landing time.
Usually, it is the little stuff that gets you. Sure would hate to
break my airplane and myself because of a throttle spring.........
Work stopped immediately until I receive the parts. Then I can
continue to prep the mkIII for MV.
Take care and check those springs.
john h
PS: The newer carbs, and the levers and brackets Bing is sending,
have a small nylon bushing to help prevent the spring from cutting
into the lever and bracket and from cutting themselves.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrel(at)kfalls.net> |
| Subject: | Re: landing in the Oregon Outback! |
Thanks guys for the sympathy, and the kindness that managed to overlook the
mistakes that were made. There were mistakes in judgement that could have
added up to serious problems in any other type of plane. I am a firm
believer that the Kolb is indeed one of the safest planes flying. However I
cannot say anything good about alum gear legs. :-) I was aware of the
possible consequences of each judgement at the time that I made them and
accepted the risk. This time I was on the recieving end and I don't have any
problems with that. I am not having any problems with depression either. I
am anxious to get the time to repair her and do not feel that the plane or
the engine let me down. There was a post not too long ago admonishing people
to secure their spark plug caps, and I intended to do that when I did my
annual. Then the emergency situation (to me) came up and that went out the
window. My judgement, my risk! No regrets!
The only thing that I could find wrong or out of place was the spark plug
cap. If there is 38 HP with two cylinders firing. ( I have a silencer that
is supposed to rob two of the 40 reported HP) When there is only one left
and it is dragging the unfiring cylinder, that is going to be somewhere less
than half the HP left. I have of course been chasing this around in my head
since the landing. In truth I didn't try too hard to try to fly it somewhere
else. In front was definately out as the terrain was rising and there was a
canyon with some pretty steep sides. If I had made a turn to the right, and
I could have limped to a two track that I did not know at the time was
there, I would have been a lot better off. However at the altitude that I
was at, that patch of grass looked really good. If you stick it in the sage
( two foot high) it is guarenteed that you are going to flip it. I have
managed to convince myself that I made the only decision possible, that my
odds of being a lot worse off would have increased with trying to turn,
hoping that I could stay airborne long enough to get to somewhere better.
As for Monument Valley, I am afraid that I am going to have to take a
raincheck this year. I am busier than a one armed paper hanger at the
moment. George remind me to tell you about my pet rabbit that I had in
Alaska. I personally think it is better than the one about the sentry dog.
It is true as well!
The new runway is all ready, or will be by the time MV is over. You all come
visit after ward. N42 40.751 W117 51.673
This will be my last post for a while as the computer will be boxed up after
tonite. I can't even find anyone that supplies internet service there yet.
Larry, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Deckard" <mustangsally(at)semo.net> |
| Subject: | PAPA Fly-In Western Kentucky June 3rd. |
The Purchase Area Pilots Association is having a Fly-In June 3rd.
At Grow Airpark 5ky3 in western ky east of Paducah. This is for all
types of aircraft. I have attached a link which will give you all the
information in a PDF file. If any one has any questions let me know.
Hope to see you there.
Terry Wilford
recplus(at)hcis.net
Challenger CWSII
Paducah, KY
http://www.flyincalendar.com/event_detail.cfm?e=1159&m=6&y06
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Level Aft CG... |
| From: | "David.Lehman" <david(at)davidlehman.net> |
jdm(at)wideworld.net wrote:
> I'm 20.7 back from the LE and it seems to fly ok even with engine off?---
Thanx JDM...
I'm assuming that's your empty weight CG...
DVD
--------
http://photobucket.com/albums/e327/N446/
Do not spin this aircraft. If the aircraft does enter a spin it will return to
earth without further attention on the part of the aeronaut.
first handbook issued with the Curtis-Wright flyer.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33717#33717
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Redundancy.. =?ISO-8859-1?Q?I=99m?= not gonna repeat myself |
!
| From: | "Ralph Hoover" <flht99reh(at)columbus.rr.com> |
equipment) into the air for some landing time. They worked great and I
discovered Ohio farm field hospitality up close and uncomfortable. I was taking
off from my instructors field (1000 feet long) with my instructor aboard. As
we climbed we lost a tad bit of air speed, not unnatural for 430 # of student
and instructor and 60 degree temps. But then a surprise presented itself to
us rather rudely. The engine went to idle! Looked to my left (the plane is a Challenger
two place) and saw the throttle in its proper location, full open. As
was appropriate, my instructor took control. We were not more than 300 feet
above ground level and the landing needed to be now. There were several farm
fields below us and he grabbed the closest one, unfortunately at a little bit
of an angle with the plowed rows. Keeping trike front wheel up as long as possible,
he brought it down as smoothly as could be done. The field was rough but
we were no worse for wear nor was the Challenger, thank God! This ride just
gave me more interest to go flying not less, so I am ok with the landing. Now
if I am ever faced with this choice or need, I will do it knowing what I will
be getting into. Recently plowed corn fields are not fun. But I'm sure better
than standing stalks!
Now you probably want to know what this has to do with redundancy! Well here goes.
The 503 DIDC and duel fuel supplied motor had a laps of NO or very low fuel.
One cylinder didnt act funny, both were even. One carb would have allowed the
engine to run at higher rpms but rough. Two fuel lines; one from the existing
mechanical fuel pump and one from an added electric fuel pump were plumbed
into the system with appropriate check valves and Ts . Apparently one check
valve stuck and allowed fuel to backflow into the other fuel pump or there was
an air leak between the hand pump choke (enricher from my old Harley days) .
In an effort to be sure of fuel redundancy a new problem came about. I know that
there are two schools that apply here and that both have been successful. School
one says keep it simple Stupid. The Rotax people know what their doing
and if it were needed, they would have made a second fuel pump part of the package,
even though a snowmobile stopping isnt the end of someone's life. The other
school applies the its better to be safe than sorry. After all, they have
two carbs, two mags, two plugs, they would be better to have two fuel pumps.
Anyone else experience this or anything like it? If so how did you correct the
problem and does anyone have a specific suggestion to routing the fuel lines from
both the mechanical pump and an electric fuel pump. I have read on this site
where many use their electric fuel pump taking off and then shut it off for
normal flight. I am about to re hose and add an electric fuel pump. I would very
much appreciate any suggestions of success that you Kolbers have had.
Sucking air here in Ohio Ralph
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33718#33718
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Level Aft CG... |
In a message dated 5/9/2006 10:35:13 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
david(at)davidlehman.net writes:
"5 to 6 degrees (nose up) between the fuselage leveling line and the top of
the float. I used the door frame on the kitfox....you need to know where the
fuselage is level. This will make your floats slightly nose down when you
are in flight, which is OK. I do know that if you don't have at least this
much difference, you won't be able to get up on the step. Don't get carried
away with this, because your tail will drag in the water when you try to
climb up on the step. 5 to 6 degrees is the number that works!
Step needs to be 4 to 6 inches AFT of your MAX AFT CG,
David, 6 degrees sounds about right on the kolb but your aft CG figure
sounds really FAR back.
steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Level Aft CG... |
In a message dated 5/9/2006 4:19:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
edchmiel(at)mindspring.com writes:
Steve,
What else do you throw at it, besides the Champ?? ;^)
Ed in JXN
Do not archive.
Sometimes afew foul words when it wont land perfectly smooth every time (-:
No really, it is the most forgiving plane I have flown, my UL skills just
need to get better
steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ElleryWeld(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Level Aft CG... |
Really did you do the weight and balance with the plane in the flying
attitude
Ellery
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Murr" <jdm(at)wideworld.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Level Aft CG... |
No that's with me in it and no fuel.
>
>
> jdm(at)wideworld.net wrote:
>> I'm 20.7 back from the LE and it seems to fly ok even with engine off?---
>
>
> Thanx JDM...
>
> I'm assuming that's your empty weight CG...
>
> DVD
>
> --------
> http://photobucket.com/albums/e327/N446/
>
> Do not spin this aircraft. If the aircraft does enter a spin it will
> return to earth without further attention on the part of the aeronaut.
>
> first handbook issued with the Curtis-Wright flyer.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33717#33717
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Murr" <jdm(at)wideworld.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Level Aft CG... |
If you are asking me, yes.
----- Original Message -----
From: <ElleryWeld(at)aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Level Aft CG...
>
> Really did you do the weight and balance with the plane in the flying
> attitude
>
> Ellery
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Redundancy.. =?windows-1252?Q?I=99m_not_gonna?= =?windows-1252?Q?_repeat_myself_!?= |
I have a 3 PSI Facet electric pump, mounted below the bottom of the tank
which feeds straight into the Mikuni pulse pump. I turn it on to start
and once the engine is running, turn it off for the taxi out and run up
to make sure the Mikuni is working, then turn it back on prior to take
off and leave it on. No reason to turn it off, because leaving it on
doesn't hurt a thing, but not leaving it on might just let the Mikuni
die/582 die at precisely the wrong moment... After I land, I can turn it
off again for the taxi back and see if the Mikuni is still alive, but at
that point, who cares?
I realize that some people turn the electric pump on for takeoff and
then turn it back off, but to me that is like turning off one mag - Why?
What are you saving it for? Just in case the other one breaks? So that
you can then turn it on to calm your atrial fibrillation and hope for a
restart?? A new Facet electric pump costs less than 40 bucks and it's
mean time to failure is longer than any of us will live, so turn it on
and leave it on!
When I first flew to Oshkosh, I had a system like you describe in your
post. I then met John Hauck, discussed my fuel system with him, and he
was of the opinion that simpler is better. Made sense, so I eliminated
all the extra plumbing and now run dual pumps all the time. One less
thing to worry about. Oh yeah, ditch the squeeze bulb, the electric pump
takes care of the prime.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Ralph Hoover wrote:
>
equipment) into the air for some landing time. They worked great and
I discovered Ohio farm field hospitality up close and uncomfortable. I was taking
off from my instructors field (1000 feet long) with my instructor aboard.
As we climbed we lost a tad bit of air speed, not unnatural for 430 # of student
and instructor and 60 degree temps. But then a surprise presented itself to
us rather rudely. The engine went to idle! Looked to my left (the plane is a
Challenger two place) and saw the throttle in its proper location, full open.
As was appropriate, my instructor took control. We were not more than 300 feet
above ground level and the landing needed to be now. There were several farm
fields below us and he grabbed the closest one, unfortunately at a little bit
of an angle with the plowed rows. Keeping trike front wheel up as long as possible,
he brought it down as smoothly as could be do!
> ne. The field was rough but we were no worse for wear nor was the Challenger,
thank God! This ride just gave me more interest to go flying not less, so I
am ok with the landing. Now if I am ever faced with this choice or need, I will
do it knowing what I will be getting into. Recently plowed corn fields are not
fun. But I'm sure better than standing stalks!
>
> Now you probably want to know what this has to do with redundancy! Well here
goes. The 503 DIDC and duel fuel supplied motor had a laps of NO or very low fuel.
One cylinder didnt act funny, both were even. One carb would have allowed
the engine to run at higher rpms but rough. Two fuel lines; one from the existing
mechanical fuel pump and one from an added electric fuel pump were plumbed
into the system with appropriate check valves and Ts . Apparently one check
valve stuck and allowed fuel to backflow into the other fuel pump or there was
an air leak between the hand pump choke (enricher from my old Harley days)
. In an effort to be sure of fuel redundancy a new problem came about. I know
that there are two schools that apply here and that both have been successful.
School one says keep it simple Stupid. The Rotax people know what their doing
and if it were needed, they would have made a second fuel pump part of the package,
even though a snowmobile stopping isnt the end!
> of someone's life. The other school applies the its better to be safe than
sorry. After all, they have two carbs, two mags, two plugs, they would be better
to have two fuel pumps.
>
> Anyone else experience this or anything like it? If so how did you correct the
problem and does anyone have a specific suggestion to routing the fuel lines
from both the mechanical pump and an electric fuel pump. I have read on this
site where many use their electric fuel pump taking off and then shut it off for
normal flight. I am about to re hose and add an electric fuel pump. I would
very much appreciate any suggestions of success that you Kolbers have had.
>
> Sucking air here in Ohio Ralph
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33718#33718
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blumax008(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Redundancy.. ITm not gonna repeat myself ! |
In a message dated 5/10/2006 9:19:28 AM Eastern Standard Time,
blackbird754(at)alltel.net writes:
I run an electric fuel pump in-line to my pulse pump also
Hey Look Guys...I know each of us has their own set of circumstances &
reasons...but...I've been flying these contraptions since '79 ((I also fly a lot),
probably longer than some of you have aged. Using that as a basis, I can
tell you that the simpler you keep your particular situation...the easier life
is going to be in regards to keeping things running...and flying.
Just as an example, I've never used anything more than a pulse fuel pump,
have never had one fail. Right now, none (none) of my instruments are in working
condition on my Trike except the Hobbs, whose 503 just recently went over
1,300 hours since new. Zero major overhauls. Two or three top overhauls. Why do
I not have working engine or flight instruments? Don't need 'em. The sounds
tell me everything I need to know. Learn from your sight & hearing. Don't
depend on falible instruments to tell you something that is probably erroneous
in the first place.
>From my years of experience working with these engines & aircraft, I would
like to humbly offer this advice.
1) Flying is dangerous, no matter what you stick on the damn thing, if it's
your time to go...you're gonna' go. Learned that at the University of S.E.
Asia too! :)
2) Keep it simple. If it's easy to put on, it'll be easy to take off.
I've had guys show up here with more crap on their motors & airframes that I
honestly couldn't see how the things could takeoff, not to mention how long
it would take to do a top overhaul...it would probably have taken an entire
days work just to remove all the crap.
I was Scuba diving off St. Croix one day with an instructor & about 5
students. One student had more crap hanging off of him, cameras, watches, depth
gauges, strobe equipment, two regulators, a spare emergency tank etc. Anyway,
the guy was actually starting to drown under the load of crap, his bouyancy
vest would not support him, he got tired of using his fins to stay afloat & the
instructor had to go save his life & bring him back to shore.
I was a Navy trained salvage diver in the Big Vagina, we had a tank,
regulator, mask, weight belt & a pair of PX sneakers. It worked. It was simple!
Keep
it simple!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Weather to fly-previous link |
| From: | "Tom O'Hara" <tohara(at)alphagraphics.com> |
A previous asked questions regarding weather decision making. I don't know if
all of the readers are aware of the ASOS (Automated Surface Observation System)
or AWOS (Automated Weather Observation System) that you tax dollars have paid
for. These are REAL time reporting systems that you can access through aircraft
radio or the TELEPHONE. They are updated about every minute and report--
wind,gusts, ceiling/cloud cover, visibility, temp/dew point, altimeter setting,
gusts and other airport info. And, it is surprising at how many reporting
stations there are. One facility is at a single paved strip of 3200 feet with
less than 75 aircraft. I do not have one at the strip that I use (scheduled
for next year) so I call three stations-5miles N, 20 miles west, and 15miles south.
From experience I have found that RDG will have 2-4kts less wind than the
other two-located in a valley, that UKT will calm out quicker in the evening-
airport is not near any large metro area, and that ABE will calm out last--
large metro area that creates its own instability.
Also get weather briefings at 800-WX-BRIEF. This automatically calls the nearest
briefing station to the calling phone number. You can get live or recorded
weather info.
Phone numbers for AWOS and ASOS can be found in FAA Airport/Facility Directories
or probably the FBO. Hope this helps someone. Use your tax dollars!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33826#33826
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | ASOS to try 215-538-7610--UKT |
| From: | "Tom O'Hara" <tohara(at)alphagraphics.com> |
Just incase you want to listen.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33829#33829
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weather to fly-previous link |
| From: | "Ralph Hoover" <flht99reh(at)columbus.rr.com> |
Tom, Thank you . This does help. I was aware of the 1-800 WXBRIEF, but not the
other. And your right. We should use the services our tax dollars are spent on.
Ohio Ralph
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33850#33850
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Redundancy.. ITm not gonna repeat myself ! |
| From: | "Ralph Hoover" <flht99reh(at)columbus.rr.com> |
Well, Pat, Your back.
Pat, first thing that you have to understand is that were "yanks" and here in yank
land we like excess. Thats why advertising is working so well.
Ask yourself this question:
Where else in the world would or could a human being buy a Cadillac pick-up truck?
And why? I mean, if you want to remodel a room, hauling the 2x4s in the back
of your Caddy is like the cats meow!
But seriously folks, two cylinders, two carbs, twin plugs, two mags. Why not two
fuel supplies. Just to be sure. But in the case I outlined, it may have been
the reason for the problem. Both fuel pumps worked then and still do now but
alas, no fuel.
Ohio Ralph
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33852#33852
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
<< does anyone have a specific suggestion to routing the fuel lines from
both the mechanical pump and an electric fuel pump. I have read on this site
where many use their electric fuel pump taking off and then shut it off for
normal flight. I am about to re hose and add an electric fuel pump.
Sucking air here in Ohio Ralph >>
Ralph -
The Rotax on my Kolb runs with two fuel pumps: A mechanical one, and a Facet
electric fuel pump. I plumbed my fuel pumps in series. No primer bulb.
The Facet is designed to allow unobstructed passage of fuel when it is
either off or failed. That allows me to turn it on or off at my convenience
(such as during takeoff and landing). Have had zero problems with this
setup since new.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-III, 912, 47 hrs
New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph Hoover" <flht99reh(at)columbus.rr.com> |
and a Facet electric fuel pump. I plumbed my fuel pumps in series. No primer bulb.
The Facet is designed to allow unobstructed passage of fuel when it is either
off or failed.
Dennis, Thank you. That is without a doubt what I will do. Now do you mount the
electric pump close to the fuel tank (gulp..sparks), or is it mounted up along
the frame of the cage so that you can see it?
Next, which model number pump is it and is it in the low (3 psi) range as previously
described by others in order to not overcome the float bowles?
Thanks all for your assistance.
She'a gushin now ralph of Ohio
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33862#33862
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Laird" <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
Dennis --
The Facet isn't fail-safe. I had one where the internal check valve
got stuck. When it was on and pumping, everything was fine. But when
I turned it off, it created enough of a restriction that, under WOT,
it couldn't fill the bowl fast enough. That was responsible for the
one and only engine-out I've ever had. (I forgot to turn it on during
take-off, and the engine cut out at about 200 feet. Luckily, I landed
straight ahead without incident.)
It took me quite a while to diagnose the problem, helped in large part
to a fuel flow meter I had. Replacing the Facet fixed the problem, of
course. And now I don't forget to turn it on!
-- Robert
On 5/10/06, Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL wrote:
>
> << does anyone have a specific suggestion to routing the fuel lines from
> both the mechanical pump and an electric fuel pump. I have read on this site
> where many use their electric fuel pump taking off and then shut it off for
> normal flight. I am about to re hose and add an electric fuel pump.
> Sucking air here in Ohio Ralph >>
>
> Ralph -
>
> The Rotax on my Kolb runs with two fuel pumps: A mechanical one, and a Facet
> electric fuel pump. I plumbed my fuel pumps in series. No primer bulb.
> The Facet is designed to allow unobstructed passage of fuel when it is
> either off or failed. That allows me to turn it on or off at my convenience
> (such as during takeoff and landing). Have had zero problems with this
> setup since new.
>
> Dennis Kirby
> Mark-III, 912, 47 hrs
> New Mexico
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
And now I don't forget to turn it on!
|
| -- Robert
Seems like that would be a good case for doing a full power runup
prior to takeoff with the electric pump shut down.
Would have to hold WOT long enough until you were satisfied the engine
driven pump was going to pump enough fuel to keep the engine happy.
My experience with 2 and 4 stroke Rotax engines indicates the both
shut down right now if they get a "little" starved for fuel.
I have been using a Facet and engine driven pump set up since 1987, on
my Firestar. Seems to be working well.
Primer bulbs were always a source of fuel delivery problems in the old
days. Maybe they have improved them since then. That's the first
thing not to be installed on my airplane.
I have had several ignition related engine failures with the Cuyuna
ULII02 and the point ignition 447. Lost the plug cap off a spark plug
on inverted engine, had an NGK BR8EV lose an electrode, and had plug
fouling twice. All four times put me in the forced landing mode and
on the ground. Dual ignition would have prevented the forced landings
until I could get to a suitable area to land and see what my problem
was.
Once I tried a JC Whitney "el cheapo" Facet look alike pump on the FS.
Was on one of my flights up to the Flight Farm in Monterey, NY. The
electric pump went belly up during the trip. While in the process of
cutting toilet paper and approximately 100 feet, the Mikuni engine
driven pump bit the dust. Very lucky to be in a position to push the
nose over and land in a nice hay field. Come to find out, the rebuild
kit I purchased from LEAF was a no name aftermarket kit. The diaphram
with its little flapper valves lasted about 30 minutes. I built the
pump at the Flight Farm. I pulled the old Mikuni diaphram out of the
trash can and reinstalled it. On my return home I contacted LEAF to
let them know of my disappointment in their inferior parts. They gave
me my money back, but did not seem too concerned about the problem.
No telling how many of us UL nuts out there were flying around with
these things. heehee
1500 and black as night outside. So dark the security light is
burning bright. Really erie feeling to know it is still the middle of
the afternoon, look up from the computer and see a totally black
window. So far the major thunderstorms are just north of my location.
Hunkered down at hauck's holler, alabama,
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Laird" <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
On 5/10/06, John Hauck wrote:
>
> And now I don't forget to turn it on!
> |
> | -- Robert
>
> Seems like that would be a good case for doing a full power runup
> prior to takeoff with the electric pump shut down.
>
> Would have to hold WOT long enough until you were satisfied the engine
> driven pump was going to pump enough fuel to keep the engine happy.
I've yet to find any brakes that would hold a 912 or 912S for a WOT
full power runup for that long, but maybe, with a large amount of
money, they can be found. (Probably put me on my nose! :-) Prior
to this event, I had detected a much lower fuel flow rate than nominal
when at a high cruise speed. That was my first clue.
-- Robert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| I've yet to find any brakes that would hold a 912 or 912S for a WOT
| full power runup for that long, but maybe, with a large amount of
| money, they can be found. (Probably put me on my nose! :-) Prior
| to this event, I had detected a much lower fuel flow rate than
nominal
| when at a high cruise speed. That was my first clue.
|
| -- Robert
The brakes are out there. MATCO makes a good set with 3/4" axles
w/tapered roller bearings (that are adjustable like real wheels), and
enough braking power to hold the 912uls. However, main gear located
in the stock position will put you on your nose.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Redundancy.. ITm not gonna repeat myself ! |
As long as the requirement is for redundancy of flight critical components,
where should we hang that second engine?
On 5/10/06, Ralph Hoover wrote:
>
m
> >
>
> Well, Pat, Your back.
>
> Pat, first thing that you have to understand is that were "yanks" and her=
e
> in yank land we like excess. Thats why advertising is working so well.
>
> Ask yourself this question:
>
> Where else in the world would or could a human being buy a Cadillac
> pick-up truck? And why? I mean, if you want to remodel a room, hauling th=
e
> 2x4s in the back of your Caddy is like the cats meow!
>
> But seriously folks, two cylinders, two carbs, twin plugs, two mags. Why
> not two fuel supplies. Just to be sure. But in the case I outlined, it m=
ay
> have been the reason for the problem. Both fuel pumps worked then and sti=
ll
> do now but alas, no fuel.
>
> Ohio Ralph
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p33852#33852
>
>
=
=
=
=
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Pining for a home on the Range"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Lehman" <david(at)davidlehman.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Redundancy.. ITm not gonna repeat myself ! |
Or second pilot?...
On 5/10/06, Richard Girard wrote:
>
>
> As long as the requirement is for redundancy of flight critical
> components,
> where should we hang that second engine?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Redundancy.. ITm not gonna repeat myself ! |
| From: | "Ralph Hoover" <flht99reh(at)columbus.rr.com> |
The second engine will go right below the extra pair of back-up wings and redundant
cableing.
Now tha I added all that stuff. The plane taxies real well but it doesn't seem
to want to lift. More motors, more carbs, more fuel!
Really ready for the nice young men in their little white coats to cart me off
to OHIO cause I'm ralph!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33912#33912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Bigelow" <up_country(at)hotmail.com> |
Dennis,
The electric pump redundancy is a good idea. If you look at the specs for the
Mikuni engine pumps that come with the two stroke Rotax engines, you'll see that
they are rated to lift fuel no more than about 36 inches. Measure the distance
to the mid point of your fuel tanks and you'll see that it is pretty close
to that.
I've believed for some time that some of the mysterious engine seizures that seem
to happen for no known reason are partial fuel starvation caused by the pulse
pump not putting out enough fuel. The classic failure is a full power take
off and climb, followed by a seizure when the power is pulled back.
The electric pump should be plumbed in parallel rather than in series. Both the
mechanical and electric pumps have a built in check valve, so you don't need
to add check valves unless you want more redundancy. If you plumb the pumps
in series, the fuel pressure will be too high (unless you install a regulator),
and either pump failing can block the single fuel path to the engine. There
was a good article in "Ultralight Flying" several years ago by Arnold Anderson
(Fight Safety Notebook) on the subject.
I don't see any reason to turn the electric pump off in flight unless you don't
have battery charging, and want to save electricity.
--------
Dave Bigelow
Kamuela, Hawaii
FS2, Rotax 503 DCDI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33990#33990
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
I disagree that the pressure would be too high. I have a fuel pressure
gauge on the panel, my pumps are in series, and I learned that with both
pumps working, the fuel pressure pickup located between the Mikuni and
carbs, the pressure is 3 1/2 pounds.
I relocated the pickup for the pressure gauge, so that it now only
monitors the Facet electric pump. Still shows 3 1/2 pounds. Left the
pressure pickup at that location. I test the Mikuni during taxi out and
run up by turning the electric pump off, (fuel pressure gauge falls to
zero) engine still runs ok, Mikuni must be working, and drawing fuel
through the Facet.
Then I turn the electric pump back on for the rest of the flight. Should
the Mikuni fail in flight, as long as the pressure is showing 3 pounds
or better, I know I will get fuel, because I see no way for the Mikuni
to block the fuel that the electric pump is pushing into the inlet side.
Don't know about the article in Ultralight Flying, but I know what
works. It might get blocked up tomorrow, but it's worked fine since '98.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Dave Bigelow wrote:
>
> Dennis,
>
> The electric pump redundancy is a good idea. If you look at the specs for the
Mikuni engine pumps that come with the two stroke Rotax engines, you'll see
that they are rated to lift fuel no more than about 36 inches. Measure the distance
to the mid point of your fuel tanks and you'll see that it is pretty close
to that.
>
> I've believed for some time that some of the mysterious engine seizures that
seem to happen for no known reason are partial fuel starvation caused by the pulse
pump not putting out enough fuel. The classic failure is a full power take
off and climb, followed by a seizure when the power is pulled back.
>
> The electric pump should be plumbed in parallel rather than in series. Both
the mechanical and electric pumps have a built in check valve, so you don't need
to add check valves unless you want more redundancy. If you plumb the pumps
in series, the fuel pressure will be too high (unless you install a regulator),
and either pump failing can block the single fuel path to the engine. There
was a good article in "Ultralight Flying" several years ago by Arnold Anderson
(Fight Safety Notebook) on the subject.
>
> I don't see any reason to turn the electric pump off in flight unless you don't
have battery charging, and want to save electricity.
>
> --------
> Dave Bigelow
> Kamuela, Hawaii
> FS2, Rotax 503 DCDI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33990#33990
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
I have two electric fuel pumps plumed into my fuel system in series. I would
prefer one of my fuel pumps to be some thing other than electric but my
reduction drive sits were the mechanical fuel would be. I use a Facet as one
of my pumps. I would never want to depend on a Facet pump because I have
experienced a few failures with them.
I use the following procedure that tests both pumps before each flight. I
prime my carbs by turning on only the Facet pump which is the first in
series and is my backup or boost pump. I can physically see the flow rate as
I have a short piece of transparent fuel line just before the carbs. then I
turn it off. I then start the engine using only the primary pump and
continue thru warm-up and run up. Just before take off I switch on the Facet
pump. After takeoff I turn the Facet pump off.
I don't like to run both pumps all the time because I feel that I might be
wearing out both pumps and want to have at least one fairly unused pump
there for back up if my primary pump fails. This is also the same procedure
I was trained to use and described in the Piper Owners Manual. There must
have been reason Piper Aircraft suggested turning off the boost pump at
altitude so I follow the same guideline with my Kolb.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bigelow" <up_country(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 5:27 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Redundancy
>
> Dennis,
>
> The electric pump redundancy is a good idea.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Paule" <dpaule(at)frii.com> |
FYI, alkaline batteries are quite magnetic and, if placed close to your
compass, can cause a deviation.
Found this out on the Skywagon some time ago, with extra batteries in the
glove box, at least a foot and a half from the compass. I generally use
Duracells, for which this warning applies, haven't tried others.
Dave Paule
Boulder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Easy to tell when the Facet is ready. -Turn on the ignition and wait
until the
tone changes and its ready to hit start.
For the person who wanted the low pressure number: 40105
AC Spruce has them in stock
-BB
On 11, May 2006, at 12:00 PM, Richard & Martha Neilsen wrote:
>
>
> I have two electric fuel pumps plumed into my fuel system in series. I
> would
> prefer one of my fuel pumps to be some thing other than electric but my
> reduction drive sits were the mechanical fuel would be. I use a Facet
> as one
> of my pumps. I would never want to depend on a Facet pump because I
> have
> experienced a few failures with them.
>
> I use the following procedure that tests both pumps before each
> flight. I
> prime my carbs by turning on only the Facet pump which is the first in
> series and is my backup or boost pump. I can physically see the flow
> rate as
> I have a short piece of transparent fuel line just before the carbs.
> then I
> turn it off. I then start the engine using only the primary pump and
> continue thru warm-up and run up. Just before take off I switch on the
> Facet
> pump. After takeoff I turn the Facet pump off.
>
> I don't like to run both pumps all the time because I feel that I
> might be
> wearing out both pumps and want to have at least one fairly unused pump
> there for back up if my primary pump fails. This is also the same
> procedure
> I was trained to use and described in the Piper Owners Manual. There
> must
> have been reason Piper Aircraft suggested turning off the boost pump at
> altitude so I follow the same guideline with my Kolb.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave Bigelow" <up_country(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 5:27 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Redundancy
>
>
>>
>>
>> Dennis,
>>
>> The electric pump redundancy is a good idea.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
<< do you mount the electric pump close to the fuel tank (gulp..sparks), or
is it mounted up along the frame of the cage so that you can see it? ralph
of Ohio >>
Ralph - Using a pair of aluminum brackets spanning between two of the cage
members on the fuselage side, I fashioned a method to attach the Facet level
with the bottom of the fuel tanks and angled at 45 degrees (per fuel pump
installation instructions). Part of my preflight is to peer behind the seat
to inspect the pump, mostly for security of hose connections. Easy to see
and service (if needed).
<< Next, which model number pump is it and is it in the low (3 psi) range as
previously described by others in order to not overcome the float bowles? >>
>From the ACSpruce catalog, I purchased the Facet model 40105, 2.5 to 4.5 psi
max, 12v, solid state pump. As it is solid state (not an electric motor),
there is no worry about sparks.
The Rotax manuals warn that pressures above 5.8 psi may lead to "override of
float valves," but there is some protection in the float bowl overflow
feature. The overflow can handle pressures up to perhaps 7 or 8 psi before
the floats become overwhelmed with too much incoming fuel. I have never yet
seen the carb bowls overflow on my Bings from the Facet pump being left on
(while the engine is running).
You are wise to follow the "keep it simple" advice from the List members
that offer it, with regard to fuel systems.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-III, 912ul, in
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| The Rotax manuals warn that pressures above 5.8 psi may lead to
"override of
| float valves," but there is some protection in the float bowl
overflow
| feature. The overflow can handle pressures up to perhaps 7 or 8 psi
before
| the floats become overwhelmed with too much incoming fuel. |
| Dennis Kirby
| Mark-III, 912ul, in
| Cedar Crest, NM
Dennis:
That outlet on the float bowl chamber of the 912 carb is not an
overflow as I thought when I initially installed the 912 on my mkIII
in 1994. That is one of the static air sources that works with the
other static air source in the lip of the carb inlet. These two
static sources and the position of the throttle plate tell the piston
in the carb where it should be positioned. That is why it is
important for them to all read the same static pressure.
The low pressure Facet and the engine driven pump will not produce
enough pressure to override the floats and needles.
This is covered in the Rotax 912 School presented by Eric Tucker.
After three classes over the last six years I think I have that part
down correctly. hehehe
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Redundancy.. ITm not gonna repeat myself ! |
| From: | "jadamson" <j-adamson(at)tamu.edu> |
Pat wrote ".. I think it comes from having far more than your fair share of the
worlds resources. Wasting things is a national pastime. ..."
I take it you meant this as humor. If, OTOH, you meant this as a social comment,
then I don't appreciate it. The US gives a helluva lot more of its resources
to the rest of the world than the rest of the world combined! And, as thanks,
usually get back the kind of thankless comments typified by your post (which,
of course, you meant only as humor, I'm sure). Be glad we had some resources
to waste - as our national pasttime - sixty or so years back.
And maybe our history books are a little revisionist, but I never had the impression
King George "allowed" us to keep our little colonies. We fought for 'em!
What was it the Brits used to say about US troops? Something like "Over-paid,
over-sexed, and .. over HERE"? Typical British gratitude. I know, what you really
meant to say was "The Germans are kicking our a##es. Thanks for helping
out."
As for the French .. we agree. :-)
If I've misinterpreted your meaning, my apologies. I just have grown a little
weary of US-bashing. Better if we stick to subjects we all agree on .. like Kolbs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=34241#34241
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Myers" <gmyers(at)grandecom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Redundancy.. ITm not gonna repeat myself ! |
What an imbezzel. What a maroon.
-------Original Message-------
From: jadamson
Date: 05/12/06 09:59:52
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Redundancy.. ITm not gonna repeat myself !
Pat wrote ".. I think it comes from having far more than your fair share =
of
the worlds resources. Wasting things is a national pastime. ..."
I take it you meant this as humor. If, OTOH, you meant this as a social
comment, then I don't appreciate it. The US gives a helluva lot more of =
its
resources to the rest of the world than the rest of the world combined! =
And
as thanks, usually get back the kind of thankless comments typified by y=
our
post (which, of course, you meant only as humor, I'm sure). Be glad we h=
ad
some resources to waste - as our national pasttime - sixty or so years ba=
ck.
And maybe our history books are a little revisionist, but I never had the
impression King George "allowed" us to keep our little colonies. We foug=
ht
for 'em!
What was it the Brits used to say about US troops? Something like
Over-paid, over-sexed, and .. over HERE"? Typical British gratitude. I
know, what you really meant to say was "The Germans are kicking our a##es=
=2E
Thanks for helping out."
As for the French .. we agree. :-)
If I've misinterpreted your meaning, my apologies. I just have grown a
little weary of US-bashing. Better if we stick to subjects we all agree =
on
=2E like Kolbs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p34241#34241
=
=
=
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Carr" <decarr(at)hughes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Redundancy.. ITm not gonna repeat myself ! |
That was very well written and I agree completely. I am sure Pat meant hi=
s
comment as humor but We Americans are very sensitive to that type of comm=
ent
by the rest of the world. We seem to be wasting our resources by sending
them all over the world and watching the rest of the world sucking up our
kindness and then bashing us. I think we can be forgiven if we are gettin=
g a
little sensitive about it.
DEC
Wisconsin
-------Original Message-------
From: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: 05/12/06 10:03:29
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Redundancy.. ITm not gonna repeat myself !
Pat wrote ".. I think it comes from having far more than your fair share =
of
the worlds resources. Wasting things is a national pastime. ..."
I take it you meant this as humor. If, OTOH, you meant this as a social
comment, then I don't appreciate it. The US gives a helluva lot more of =
its
resources to the rest of the world than the rest of the world combined! =
And
as thanks, usually get back the kind of thankless comments typified by y=
our
post (which, of course, you meant only as humor, I'm sure). Be glad we h=
ad
some resources to waste - as our national pasttime - sixty or so years ba=
ck.
And maybe our history books are a little revisionist, but I never had the
impression King George "allowed" us to keep our little colonies. We foug=
ht
for 'em!
What was it the Brits used to say about US troops? Something like
Over-paid, over-sexed, and .. over HERE"? Typical British gratitude. I
know, what you really meant to say was "The Germans are kicking our a##es=
=2E
Thanks for helping out."
As for the French .. we agree. :-)
If I've misinterpreted your meaning, my apologies. I just have grown a
little weary of US-bashing. Better if we stick to subjects we all agree =
on
=2E like Kolbs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p34241#34241
=
=
=
=
=2E
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Redundancy.. ITm not gonna repeat myself ! |
Inappropriate.
On 12, May 2006, at 10:52 AM, jadamson wrote:
>
> Pat wrote ".. I think it comes from having far more than your fair
> share of the worlds resources. Wasting things is a national pastime.
> ..."
>
> I take it you meant this as humor. If, OTOH, you meant this as a
> social comment, then I don't appreciate it. The US gives a helluva
> lot more of its resources to the rest of the world than the rest of
> the world combined! And, as thanks, usually get back the kind of
> thankless comments typified by your post (which, of course, you meant
April 23, 2006 - May 12, 2006
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ga