Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-go
February 26, 2007 - March 17, 2007
familiar.
Looking forward to my flight back to MV for the 5th time this May. Be
looking for you all there.
Time for a Navajo Taco Salad, Navajo fry bread and honey for
breakfast, when I get tired of eating eggs and bacon.
Best flying is before coffee and breakfast. Tough for me to get going
with no caffeine, but an early morning flight through the monuments is
worth it.
Attached are a few memories from MV 2005.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Stonex" <cstonex(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Monument Valley - Excellent Videos :) |
Excellant videos ...thanks for sharing. I am looking forward to making it to
MV myself someday soon.
Chuck S
Here are two very good short videos about flying in Monument Valley. They
were shot from an Ultralight Trike, but they are the best I have ever seen.
Part 1
http://www.emuvideo.com/videos.php?page=trikemv1
Part 2
http://www.emuvideo.com/videos.php?page=trikemv2
JettPilot
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you
could have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97542#97542
_________________________________________________________________
Win a Zunemake MSN your homepage for your chance to win!
http://homepage.msn.com/zune?icid=hmetagline
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Recommended Prop for my Firstar |
| From: | "John H Murphy" <jhm9812(at)yahoo.com> |
Do most folks opt for the three blade prop or two bladed type. I have a two blade
variety and it's in need of being replaced. The engine is a Rotax 503 DCDI.
Where does one shop for this prop. The only source I have now is CPS in Calif.
I've heard the Spruce is pretty pricey.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97553#97553
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Recommended Prop for my Firstar |
Welcome to the most argued about topic on the list...
Props and the number of blades they should have is sort of a religion here -
and within this religion you have True Believers, a Priesthood, a Laity,
Backsliders, Infidels, Apostates and a Mixed Multitude.
But do not dispair - for a Love Offering of any amount of Seafoam, Bro.
Beauford will be more than glad to reveal to you The One True Prop...
Aw, ok - Rotax 503, DCDI, 2.58:1 B box - IMO, get a 66" two blade Ivo and
you won't go wrong. Google it, lots of folks sell 'em, shop around. Use a
prop extension, makes things quieter.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
----- Original Message -----
From: "John H Murphy" <jhm9812(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 11:09 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Recommended Prop for my Firstar
>
> Do most folks opt for the three blade prop or two bladed type. I have a
> two blade variety and it's in need of being replaced. The engine is a
> Rotax 503 DCDI. Where does one shop for this prop. The only source I have
> now is CPS in Calif. I've heard the Spruce is pretty pricey.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97553#97553
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
Group,
I have had a drop of about 300 -400 rpm static on my 447 with only 45
hours on it. what are the symptoms of stuck rings and can you tell if they are
stuck by doing a compression test? I noticed I was not getting as many rpms on
climb out but it still seemed to have plenty of power. Can the pitch increase
on the Ivo prop by itself???? Suggestons?
Ed (In Houston FF 62)
**************************************
AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TheWanderingWench <thewanderingwench(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley - Excellent Videos :) |
John -
GORGEOUS pics.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed that Larry Cottrell and
I make it there this May. The pictures sure keep the
memories flowing - last year's MV fly-in was a truly
great flight for me from start to finish.
Arty Trost
Sandy, Oregon
--- John Hauck wrote:
>
> Looking forward to my flight back to MV for the 5th
> time this May. Be
> looking for you all there.
>
> Time for a Navajo Taco Salad, Navajo fry bread and
> honey for
> breakfast, when I get tired of eating eggs and
> bacon.
>
> Best flying is before coffee and breakfast. Tough
> for me to get going
> with no caffeine, but an early morning flight
> through the monuments is
> worth it.
>
> Attached are a few memories from MV 2005.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
www.LessonsFromTheEdge.com
"Life's a daring adventure or nothing"
Helen Keller
"I refuse to tip toe through life just to arrive safely at death."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Recommended Transponder |
| From: | "John H Murphy" <jhm9812(at)yahoo.com> |
I'm in the process of getting my Firestar registered. I will need a transponder
to use one of the airports I may be flying into. Any recommendations as to what
transponder I should purchase? I notice a Garmin 327? on ebay for about $1,600.
Is this overkill for what I need?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97569#97569
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Recommended Prop for my Firstar |
----- Original Message -----
From: "John H Murphy" <jhm9812(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2007 11:09 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Recommended Prop for my Firstar
>
> Do most folks opt for the three blade prop or two bladed type. I have a
> two blade variety and it's in need of being replaced. The engine is a
> Rotax 503 DCDI. Where does one shop for this prop. The only source I have
> now is CPS in Calif. I've heard the Spruce is pretty pricey.
>
>
> John,
Some other sources for wood props would be Tennessee props, and Culver props
"Valley engineering".
You can Google either to find their web sights. Both are reputable
companies.
I would stick with two blades for the best all around performance.
Denny Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Key" <dhkey(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Recommended Transponder |
John, I have the Garmin 327 in my Kolb, I like it. Yes it's overkill but it
looks good. I fly out of class D under B in the mode C veil.
>From: "John H Murphy" <jhm9812(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Kolb-List: Recommended Transponder
>Date: Mon, 26 Feb 2007 22:36:41 -0800
>
>
>I'm in the process of getting my Firestar registered. I will need a
>transponder to use one of the airports I may be flying into. Any
>recommendations as to what transponder I should purchase? I notice a Garmin
>327? on ebay for about $1,600. Is this overkill for what I need?
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97569#97569
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finishing tapes |
> Show of hands Please,
> How many Kolb coverors put tapes on all the smaller ribs ?
> Elevators, rudder and ailerons.
>
> Vic
> Extra 912
> Maine
I did on Kolb Classic Rick Pearce
-----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley - Excellent Videos :) |
| I'm keeping my fingers crossed that Larry Cottrell and
| I make it there this May.
| Arty Trost
Morning Arty:
Thanks for the kind words.
No need to cross fingers. You and Larry will have a great flight, and
you all will be at MV, Lord willing and the creek don't rise,
and............. the Rotax keep turning. If I could do it 20 years
ago in a point ignition, single carb 447, and a Firestar, you and
Larry can do the same thing. Of course, my buddies Will U and Dave R
can and did some long cross country in their Firestars.
Yes, I must agree, last year's Kolb Unplanned/Unorganized Monument
Valley Flyin was a complete success and now, it is also a very special
one and always will be. Primarily because there are great memories of
my buddy, AZ Dave and Eve. Not only last year, but all four years.
Kolb folks are special, and that is why I keep going back to MV.
Take care,
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Primer versus Choke? |
| From: | "John H Murphy" <jhm9812(at)yahoo.com> |
My apologies in advance for this question. I have a choke on my Firestar. It's
located near the recoil starter. Is the choke and primer the same? If it's not
the same do most folks install a primer? If so, why?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97603#97603
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Recommended Transponder |
>
> I'm in the process of getting my Firestar registered. I will need a
> transponder to use one of the airports I may be flying into. Any
> recommendations as to what transponder I should purchase? I notice
> a Garmin 327? on ebay for about $1,600. Is this overkill for what I
> need?
>
You may want to try some of the FBO's in your area... sometimes they will
have something that they have removed for an upgrade in a ga aircraft and
will have a good unit for 1/2 price. I am working on getting one and the
previous owner is sending it to the factory for a full checkout. He wants
only 500 for it. I will have to spend a bit more for the encoder but he
thinks it will come to about 700 total.
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford T" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer versus Choke? |
Brother Murphy:
No apology required for any question asked on this List, sir....
IMHO, the "choke" or "enrichment circuit" on my 447 is next to worthless...
I had chronic difficulty starting the engine with it... and besides, there
were problems with the rubber seal at the base of the piston on that item
leaking... (see earlier threads on fun with carbon ...)
Conversely, the manual primer pump I finally installed works great, giving
first or second pull starts most of the time... Wouldn't be without one...
Worth what ye paid fer it...
Beauford
FF#076
BRS finally reinstalled
----- Original Message -----
Subject: Kolb-List: Primer versus Choke?
>
> My apologies in advance for this question. I have a choke on my Firestar.
> It's located near the recoil starter. Is the choke and primer the same? If
> it's not the same do most folks install a primer? If so, why?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97603#97603
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Recommended Transponder |
Is this airport in Class B or C airspace? How often will you be flying
into it? If it's Class C and you're only flying into it occasionally, I
would probably skip the transponder and encoder. Instead I would call
your local RAPCON on the phone and ask them if it is a problem getting
clearance into the airspace on short notice. If you have no Xpdr
installed the regs say you need 1 hr advance notice, but I suspect they
will say no problem in which case I would just call by radio when you want
to go in.
If it's class B and/or you plan to go into this airport often, I'd find
the cheapest Xpdr & encoder I could find. Theoretically/legally this also
means a transponder check every 2 years.
In case you didn't know, the blind encoder is a separate device that
determines your altitude referenced to 29.92 and inserts that altitude
into the return echo so the radar operator can get an altitude readout.
The cheapest (new) is about $179. You will also need an antenna, cable,
and it should have a circuit breaker. It's called "blind" because it
doesn't know what your altimiter's altitude is. Non-blind encoders are
internal to the altimiter.
Jim
N. Idaho
>
> I'm in the process of getting my Firestar registered. I will need a
> transponder to use one of the airports I may be flying into. Any
> recommendations as to what transponder I should purchase? I notice a
> Garmin 327? on ebay for about $1,600. Is this overkill for what I need?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97569#97569
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Noyer <a58r(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: David's Kolb |
Miz Lisa,
Could you chop off/not include the LONG string of archive stuff?
Tried to send this to you off list, but bounced.
regards,
Bob N. FireFly 070 Old Kolb
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Noyer <a58r(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer versus Choke? |
I suffered through years of shoulder-separating 5 or 6 pulls on my
"choked" 447, until I got a tiny push button primer from Mark Smith.
Now two pulls and the mighty (means might-it go?) Rotaxi fires off.
regards,
Bob N. FireFly 070 Old Kolb
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer versus Choke? |
>
>My apologies in advance for this question. I have a choke on my Firestar.
It's located near the recoil starter. Is the choke and primer the same? If
it's not the same do most folks install a primer? If so, why?
>
John,
The advantage of a primer is that you can prime the engine so it will start
on the first time over compression. I mounted a primer on the Bing float
bowl. I give it two squirts, and pull the engine through compression two
times to move charge into the engine. Then I put the choke full on and hit
the starter. Engine fires on the first time over compression every time.
Saves the arm and/or battery.
The primer mod can be seen at:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly89.html
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Primer versus Choke? |
| From: | "blackbird" <blackbird754(at)alltel.net> |
This question has come up more than once.....If you do NOT have an electric fuel
pump......The bowls in the carbs can run dry after sitting for awhile..........
Most folks use a primer bulb with a bypass line(in case of bulb going bad) followed
by a primer circuit..........Not even hook up the enricher circuit....
Mechanically speaking, on a 2-stroke this primer immediately gives fuel to the
engine and thus reduces the cranking efforts....
The primer bulb like found on most outboard marine engines....Can and WILL deteriorate
over time.....hence the bypass line....
Most experimental aircraft with fuel below the engine or in wing tanks using NO
electric fuel pump....will need a primer bulb.....YOUR option...
Having batteries go dead before.....I prefer bulb over electric......
W
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97667#97667
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finishing tapes |
| From: | "Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
<< How many Kolb coverors put tapes on all the smaller ribs ?
Elevators, rudder and ailerons. Vic >>
I did not apply any anti-chafing tape on my wing ribs before covering,
and now I wish I had. Near the leading edge, a few of the ribs are
beginning to poke thru the fabric.
I don't know where in the Kolb manual (or the Poly Fiber manual) I
missed the mantra that says, "Thou shalt apply anti-chafe tape on all
airframe members that touch the fabric," but ... I missed it. Darn.
At least it'll be easy when I replace the wing fabric, because I
rib-stitched, instead of using rivets!
Dennis Kirby
New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Screw the Coil, or not...? |
Got a minor question.... Do the plug wires connected to the Ducati
CD coils on the mighty 447 screw into the coil, or press-fit (snap)
into it...? Thanks...
Baffled Beauford from Brandon
Bill:
Screw'em.
john h
mkIII with screwed plug wires too.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer versus Choke? |
At 02:32 PM 2/27/2007, blackbird wrote:
>
>Most folks use a primer bulb with a bypass line(in case of bulb going bad)
>followed by a primer circuit..........Not even hook up the enricher circuit....
How do you plumb the bypass? A check valve to prevent backflow through the
bypass while priming? And/or shutoffs to isolate the primer in flight?
-Dana
--
--
Mr. Cole's Axiom:
The sum of the intelligence on the planet is a constant; the population is
growing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Lehman" <david(at)davidlehman.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer versus Choke? |
Richard...
Mine's an "original" Firestar, so the primer is mounted behind the seat,
below the staring rope...
DVD
On 2/27/07, Richard Girard wrote:
>
> David, I had a primer setup and blocked off enrichener valves when I
> bought my Kolb. Worked great for starting and I liked it. What I didn't like
> were the extra fuel lines routed underneath the left seat. I added back the
> enricheners and plugged the primer port on the carb. Now I'm thinking of
> adding the primer lines back but putting the plunger up by the engine with
> the rest of the fuel lines, that way I have the most options.
>
> Rick
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop hub extentions |
| From: | "Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
"Paul Petty" wrote: < here is the one we made with the 912 lugs pressed
in >
Beautiful piece of work, Paul!
Which causes me to wonder: Do I need one of these for my Mark-III?
With this recent thread about prop hub extenders, I still do no know if
the specific advantage is: 1) noise reduction, by moving the spinning
prop tips further away from the trailing edge, or 2) improved
performance.
Can anyone answer this?
Thanks in advance,
Dennis Kirby
912ul, Powerfin-72
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arizona Man <captainron1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Recommended Transponder |
---- John H Murphy wrote:
============
I'm in the process of getting my Firestar registered. I will need a transponder
to use one of the airports I may be flying into. Any recommendations as to what
transponder I should purchase? I notice a Garmin 327? on ebay for about $1,600.
Is this overkill for what I need?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97569#97569
If money is no object get the smallest one you can find. There is an Australian one http://www.microair.com.au/ however they are all otherwise the same. I would buy a used one at around $600 You will also need an encoder for altitude reporting those are under $200.
Get a radio shop for the installation it will save you some potential trouble.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lexan door latch - how to make/where to buy |
| From: | "John H Murphy" <jhm9812(at)yahoo.com> |
My "summer doors" for my Firestar have just been installed. They lack any type
of latch or locking mechanism to keep them closed in flight. Any ideas as to hardware
to buy or to how to make would be appreciated. These doors are hinged
much like the Kolb Mark III...with the same tube steel from the gap cover to the
nose piece.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97795#97795
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "olendorf" <olendorf(at)gmail.com> |
I also had a primer bulb fail. I was preflighting when I noticed it. I saw some
tiny balls of something in the fuel line. Further inspection revealed that
the primer bulb internal parts had fallen apart. Now I rebuild the fuel pump
and replace primer bulb every 18 months.
--------
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 447, Powerfin prop
Schenectady, NY
http://KolbFirestar.googlepages.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97845#97845
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | LISA TURNER <lisaturner(at)prodigy.net> |
Bob N., thanks for the angelfire link. Sorry to have attached all the prev
ious "stuff". =0A =0ALisa
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Primer versus Choke? |
| From: | "blackbird" <blackbird754(at)alltel.net> |
Ok guys,
Would you plumb in the primer "tee" before or after the squeeze bulb?
Also, on my Kolbra would you run the primer to the cockpit or underneath the engine?
Really don't like the fuel up front with me........
Your thoughts....
Wayne
--------
Wish I lived in the American REPUBLIC!!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97856#97856
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Primer versus Choke? |
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Really nice arrangement David. Let me throw in my $.02 worth - I am not all that
crazy about tie wraps as fuel line clamps, I really prefer something that will
clamp the tubing in such a way that the soft tubing is pushed extra snugly
around the barbs of the fittings. I am not convinced that tie wraps will do this,
and I am convinced that most hose clamps do not apply even grip pressure for
the full circumference of the tubing.
Here is what I use instead of either of them, details on this page:
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97879#97879
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/safety_wire_2_186.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/safety_wire1_808.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
The "it might happen" attitude may be beloved by insurers -- but it may
also save your plane and your life.>>
Hi Russ,
of course you are right, and reasonable forethought and precautions are
OK. However I would like to see some figures of bulb failure per
thousand flying hours before building in two more tee joints which I
reckon are more likely to fail than the bulb.
I don`t know what its like in the US but here we have a whole industry
employing thousands and costing millions to keep people safe from things
that `might happen`. Its called Health and Safety and to give just two
examples.
One. For years the net has been attached to the goal posts at football
fields by hooks so that the net can easily be removed. At the last
inspection of our village football field the twit of an inspector
ordered that the hooks be replaced by closed rings because `the
goalkeeper might get his finger caught in it`
Two. On TV a couple of weeks ago the Health and Safety Inspector was
seen gathering all the members of a road repair gang together before
they started work to explain that road rollers and excavators `sometimes
go backwards` and that the men should be aware of the dangers.
Give me strength!
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
When I got back home I cut the primer bulb out of the fuel line and
found it did not work,>>
Hi Richard,
I am not suggesting that it CAN`T happen, just querying how often and is
it worth complicating the systemfor it.. The bulb is rubber. Rubber
deteriorates, fair enough. Just replace it when you do your annual
check. If we had belt and braces for everything that just might fail we
would never get off the ground.
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
Any of you ever tried using a Snowmobile ski on your Kolb????
We tried to fly some lite trikes this past weekend but the snows
surface was
much too soft for a wheeled landing.... The landing had Turtled
written all over it 8-(
I started looked at some Skis on snowmobile and thought they might be
just the ticket
for our use ..... Ideally a Wider Mountain Sled Ski for softer snow
landings......
The material these ski are made from already have a proven track
record when it comes
to rough abuse under various COLD temps.... It would be just a matter
of designing a foot
to attach the ski to...
I saw the water ski set up on the KOLB site but I do Question the skis
integrity under such
harsh conditions... After all they are designed for use on melted snow
8-)
Mark Vaughn
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
from AOL at AOL.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer versus Choke? |
At 10:18 AM 2/28/2007, David Lehman wrote:
>Picture's worth $.02 of words...
Looks like a neat installation. Only thing I don't see is how the bulb can
draw anything from the tank unless the bypass line is pinched off... is
that what you do?
-Dana
--
--
Ever notice how fast Windows runs? Neither did I.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Noyer <a58r(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Primer versus Choke? |
Re: safety hose clamps. I've used soft copper instead of
steel...won't cut fuel line, and easier to use on smaller lines. Fire
away, gridleak.
regards,
Bob N. FireFly 070 Old Kolb
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Reeves <mattreeves(at)yahoo.com> |
I read an article on skis recently, I think it was in Sport Aviation. I learned
a lot. The skis are not the problem on the ground so much as they are in
the air. The air catches one or both of them and they point up or down and act
like ailerons or bang around.
There was also an interesting picture of a DC3 with snow skis and they were attached
to each other with a small wing in the back to keep them level in flight.
Good idea.
Maybe you could come up with a way to do that with snowmobile skis.
Cool article and fun stuff to think about and experiment with.
Matt
knowvne(at)aol.com wrote:
Any of you ever tried using a Snowmobile ski on your Kolb????
We tried to fly some lite trikes this past weekend but the snows
surface was
much too soft for a wheeled landing.... The landing had Turtled
written all over it 8-(
I started looked at some Skis on snowmobile and thought they might be
just the ticket
for our use ..... Ideally a Wider Mountain Sled Ski for softer snow
landings......
The material these ski are made from already have a proven track
record when it comes
to rough abuse under various COLD temps.... It would be just a matter
of designing a foot
to attach the ski to...
I saw the water ski set up on the KOLB site but I do Question the skis
integrity under such
harsh conditions... After all they are designed for use on melted snow
8-)
Mark Vaughn
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
from AOL at AOL.com.
---------------------------------
Get your own web address.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Primer versus Choke? |
| From: | "blackbird" <blackbird754(at)alltel.net> |
Ok,
The primer "t" goes after the squeeze bulb.......CPS says it must be mounted in
the horizontal position.....New issue..
What about the primer in the cockpit...............any thoughts?
Wayne
--------
Wish I lived in the American REPUBLIC!!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=97927#97927
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chris davis <capedavis(at)yahoo.com> |
I put the front skis, steel,off a snowmobile on my Kxp 503 and happily flew
it out of as much as 14 inches of snow to a light dusting for 2 winters. C
hris Davis =0A=0A=0A----- Original Message
----=0AFrom: "knowvne(at)aol.com" <knowvne(at)aol.com>=0ATo: kolb-list@matronics
.com=0ASent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 1:06:16 PM=0ASubject: Kolb-List:
Any of you ever tried using a Snowmobile ski on your Kolb????=0A We tried
to fly some lite trikes this past weekend but the snows =0Asurface was=0A
much too soft for a wheeled landing.... The landing had Turtled =0Awritten
all over it 8-(=0A=0A I started looked at some Skis on snowmobile and thou
ght they might be =0Ajust the ticket=0A for our use ..... Ideally a Wider
Mountain Sled Ski for softer snow =0Alandings......=0A=0A The material the
se ski are made from already have a proven track =0Arecord when it comes=0A
to rough abuse under various COLD temps.... It would be just a matter =0A
of designing a foot=0Ato attach the ski to...=0A=0A I saw the water ski se
t up on the KOLB site but I do Question the skis =0Aintegrity under such=0A
harsh conditions... After all they are designed for use on melted snow
=0A8-)=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AMark Vaughn=0A=0A_______________________________
_________________________________________=0AAOL now offers free email to ev
=======================0A=0A=0A
=0A_______________________________________________________________________
_____________=0AThe fish are biting. =0AGet more visitors on your site usin
g Yahoo! Search Marketing.=0Ahttp://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/arp/sponsored
search_v2.php
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George T. Alexander, Jr." <gtalexander(at)att.net> |
Mark:
Here is a link to some info that I used to carry on my web site (before I
moved to Florida) that you might find interesting. John Carpenter is the
person who did skis out of snow mobile skins. There is a link to his email.
Don't know if it is still valid or not.
http://gtalexander.home.att.net/winterflying.html
George Alexander
http://gtalexander.home.att.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of knowvne(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 1:06 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Snow Skis
Any of you ever tried using a Snowmobile ski on your Kolb????
We tried to fly some lite trikes this past weekend but the snows surface
was
much too soft for a wheeled landing.... The landing had Turtled written
all over it 8-(
I started looked at some Skis on snowmobile and thought they might be just
the ticket
for our use ..... Ideally a Wider Mountain Sled Ski for softer snow
landings......
The material these ski are made from already have a proven track record
when it comes
to rough abuse under various COLD temps.... It would be just a matter of
designing a foot to attach the ski to...
I saw the water ski set up on the KOLB site but I do Question the skis
integrity under such
harsh conditions... After all they are designed for use on melted snow
8-)
Mark Vaughn
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from
AOL at AOL.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
The skis are not the problem on the ground so much as they are in the
air.
The air catches one or both of them and they point up or down and act
like ailerons or bang around.
Hi Matt
Yea I thought about that and was considering a limiting cable on the
nose and tail of the ski along
with a tight bungie cord on the nose so to make darn sure the tail of
the ski touched down first....8-)
On a KOLB there doesn't appear to be much rotation in the flair when
landing so i wouldn't expect
their to be too much slack in the limiting cables.. I just have to
make certain the AOA of Both skis
stay positive...
On trikes their nose always rotates forward and UP when leaving the
ground so that creates the
needed positive AOA for them.....
OK!
So who wants to be my test pilot?????? BUCK BUCK BUCK hahahaha
Mark
knowvne(at)aol.com wrote:
Any of you ever tried using a Snowmobile ski on your Kolb????
We tried to fly some lite trikes this past weekend but the snows
surface was
much too soft for a wheeled landing.... The landing had Turtled
written all over it 8-(
I started looked at some Skis on snowmobile and thought they might be
just the ticket
for our use ..... Ideally a Wider Mountain Sled Ski for softer snow
landings......
The material these ski are made from already have a proven track
record when it comes
to rough abuse under various COLD temps.... It would be just a matter
of designing a foot
to attach the ski to...
I saw the water ski set up on the KOLB site but I do Question the skis
integrity under such
harsh conditions... After all they are designed for use on melted snow
8-)
Mark Vaughn
________________________________________________________________________
AOL --------
Get your own web address.
Have a HUGE year through
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
________________________________________________________________________
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=0
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Chris
Did you also land in that 14 inch snow????
I would fear flipping a KOLB if the skis dug in too fast.....
Hence why I considered the WIDER Mountain Sled type Skis...
Is that what you used?
Thanks
Mark Vaughn
-----Original Message-----
From: capedavis(at)yahoo.com
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Snow Skis
I put the front skis, steel,off a snowmobile on my Kxp 503and
happily flew it out of as much as 14 inches of snow to a light dusting
for 2 winters. Chris Davis
----- Original Message ----
From: "knowvne(at)aol.com" <knowvne(at)aol.com>
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2007 1:06:16 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Snow Skis
Any of you ever tried using a Snowmobile ski on your Kolb????
We tried to fly some lite trikes this past weekend but the snows
surface was
much too soft for a wheeled landing.... The landing had Turtled
written all over it 8-(
I started looked at some Skis on snowmobile and thought they might
be
just the ticket
for our use ..... Ideally a Wider Mountain Sled Ski for softer snow
landings......
The material these ski are made from already have a proven track
record when it comes
to rough abuse under various COLD temps.... It would be just a
matter
of designing a foot
to attach the ski to...
I saw the water ski set up on the KOLB site but I do Question the
skis
integrity under such
harsh conditions... After all they are designed for use on melted
snow
8-)
Mark Vaughn
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone.Find out more about what's
free
frosp;- The Kolb-List Email Fom/Navigator?Kolb-List"
target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?K- NEW
MAT="http://forums.matronics.com/"
target=_blank>http://forums.matronics.c=============
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Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo!
Games.
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=0
________________________________________________________________________________
What about weight? Aren't snowmobile skis all steel? Are they too heavy?
>
> Any of you ever tried using a Snowmobile ski on your Kolb????
________________________________________________________________________________
Nope today they're made of a tough Polymer that has a Steel Foot bolted
into it..
my guess is they'll weigh in about the same as the Tire & Rim already
there ...
Manufactures also will bolt into the bottom of the ski something
called a Skag
which is little more than a Steel Rod thats
about 18 inches long for crossing Asphalt and other hard surfaces and
to help
control the sled when on more packed surfaces like Ice or packed snow
on trails...
Some sleds are designed for deep snow so a winder ski is used up front
to help
keep the Sled on top of power type snow... Thats the ski I'd
consider....
Mark Vaughn
-----Original Message-----
From: jim@tru-cast.com
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Kolb-List: Snow Skis
What about weight? Aren't snowmobile skis all steel? Are they too
heavy?
>
> Any of you ever tried using a Snowmobile ski on your Kolb????
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
from AOL at AOL.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolbs in the Wind |
At 02:20 PM 2/28/2007, knowvne(at)AOL.COM wrote:
>
>As a 20 year Vet of HangGliding we pilots experience this sort of head
>wind all the time ...
> A lesser performing glider or a Paraglider would have been in deep do do...
Hah! Try it in a PPG sometime... more than once I've made flights without
ever turning Take off into the wind, fly forward low in the boundary
layer, climb until I'm going backwards, drift back, then descend again into
the slower air to land at the takeoff point.
Of course the downside is that the scenery gets boring pretty quick.
Flew backwards a few times in the T-Craft too, but that was on the edge of
stall at 8000' or more...
-Dana
--
--
Ever notice how fast Windows runs? Neither did I.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
At 02:48 PM 2/28/2007, knowvne(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Yea I thought about that and was considering a limiting cable on the
> nose and tail of the ski along with a tight bungie cord on the nose so
> to make darn sure the tail of the ski touched down first....8-)
>
> On a KOLB there doesn't appear to be much rotation in the flair when
> landing so i wouldn't expect their to be too much slack in the limiting
> cables...
That's the typical setup.
I've always wanted to fly off skis. Even bought a set for my T-Craft, but
after I had already disassembled it for restoration... and the skis went
with the project when I sold it. I how have a set of fiberglass skis which
I believe came off an early ParaPlane, seem to be about the right size. Of
course my Ultrastar sits at a higher angle on the ground, necessitating
more slack in the limiting cables than you'd need for a low boom Kolb.
-Dana
--
--
Ever notice how fast Windows runs? Neither did I.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Malcolmbru(at)aol.com |
I posted a question about ske flying last week this is one if the postings
I got from another list it has a real nice set of plans for building a set .
Malcom, here is the plan of the wheel penetrating skis I
made a few
years ago:
http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/SkiFox.pdf
And here are some photos of the installation:
http://home.online.no/~michel/ski/
**************************************
AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ElleryWeld(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: A primer that system that works well |
Steve
I use a primer out of a skidoo snowmobile with a Rotax engine They all come
with this same primer and the fuel line coming out of the bottom of my fuel
Tank I installed a fuel filter then a 1/4 X 1/8 T after the filter to hook my
primer line to the T run the other primer line to the intake port on the
carb not the float bowl this will start first flop every time even in the cold
weather we have here in Maine if it starts to die after it starts use the
primer to keep it running untill it stays running on its own
Oh and take the enricher hardware out and toss it I made a tapered brass pin
to Tap in the hole and use the spring and screw on top to make sure the brass
plug stays in place just a make sure thing
Hope this helps anyone
Ellery In Maine
**************************************
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________________________________________________________________________________
Nice !
A true snow Amphib 8-)
Mark Vaughn
-----Original Message-----
From: Malcolmbru(at)aol.com
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wed, 28 Feb 2007 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Snow Skis
I posted a question about ske flying last week this is one if the
postings I got from another list it has a real nice set of plans for
building a
set.
Malcom, here is the plan of the wheel
penetrating skis I made a few
years ago:
http://home.online.no/~michel/tmp/SkiFox.pdf
And here are some photos of the installation:
http://home.online.no/~michel/ski/
--------
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
from AOL at AOL.com.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
from AOL at AOL.com.
=0
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank & margie" <frank-margie(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | BONDED Plug Wires? |
Ref.
Got a minor question.... Do the plug wires connected to the Ducati CD
coils on the mighty 447 screw into the coil, or press-fit (snap) into
it...? I'm about to remove mine to replace the boots and it could be
messy if I have the wrong answer...
-------------------------------------------------
According to the maintenence info in the back of the CPS Catalog, Part
32, pg 75 in the '06 catalog, "the plug wires are bonded or glued to the
transducers" with Loctite #380. There is no screw, only a pointed post,
in the transducer connection.
But----same catalog, Part 58, the plug wires are easily replacable, and
there is a threaded post in the E box output boss.
Anyone have some definite info on this?
Frank Clyma
Orange Park, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank & margie" <frank-margie(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Ref;
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RPM drop
Group,
I have had a drop of about 300 -400 rpm static on my 447 with only 45
hours on it. what are the symptoms of stuck rings and can you tell if
they are
stuck by doing a compression test? I noticed I was not getting as many
rpms on
climb out but it still seemed to have plenty of power. Can the pitch
increase
on the Ivo prop by itself???? Suggestons?
---------------------------------------------------
My 503 DCDI is real sensitive to plug gap------try resetting the plugs
to .016. I use NGK BR8ES, and replace at 25 hours. I've also seen
plugs that wouldn't fire as strong if they'd been wet, as in flooded
engine or lots of preservative oil.
Frank Clyma
Orange Park, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Minnesota skis - Part 1 |
Here are the skis I've been flying with for 20 years (see attached).
They are composite water skis with the water hardware removed.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
Minnesota
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Minnesota skis - Part 1 |
HI Ralph
I saw your images on the KOLB Web site...
20 years WOW looks like they do the trick just fine...
Are they Wood a Polymer What?
Did you use Carriage Bolts on the bottom to hold
your axial assembly??
Thanks
Mark Vaughn
-----Original Message-----
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wed, 28 Feb 2007 10:01 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Minnesota skis - Part 1
Here are the skis I've been flying with for 20 years (see attached).
They are composite water skis with the water hardware removed.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
Minnesota
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Minnesota skis - Part 2 |
I spoke too soon 8-) thanks for the plans
Mark Vaughn
-----Original Message-----
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wed, 28 Feb 2007 10:09 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Minnesota skis - Part 2
Here is the 2nd part of the ski attachment pics.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
Minnesota
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Minnesota skis - Part 1 |
-- knowvne(at)aol.com wrote:
HI Ralph
I saw your images on the KOLB Web site...
20 years WOW looks like they do the trick just fine...
Are they Wood a Polymer What?
Did you use Carriage Bolts on the bottom to hold
your axial assembly??
Thanks
Mark Vaughn
Mark, they are a composite material for water skis. I don't know what
material it is, but it's like hard rubber. You might contact the
Cascade water ski company and ask them. Be careful when drilling out
the holes in the skis as they have a steel rod running down the sides.
Find them with a stud detector.
I used 5/16" carriage bolts and blind nuts (hardware store). If you
save the plans to your computer, they are clearer so you can see
everything. I made these plans about 9 years ago.
The skis slide onto the axle through the hole and are held on with
spacers and washers. They were made for the Original Firestar axle
which was 3/4". The new axle is 5/8" and I have to use an aluminum
tube which I slide over the the axle. It works great. Of course, if
they were constructed new, drill out for 5/8" w/o the tubes, but still
need the washers.
I wax the bottoms with ordinary jelly paraffin wax purchased from a
grocery store. Take the wax and rub it on. No heat needed.
I bought the skis new from "Play-it-Again-Sports" store. They were
$75. These are cheap skis and they work well in heavy snow because of
the ski area. They are low drag too. They tailwheel rod has a
triangular oak block attached with long hose clamps to help protect
the tailwheel. The block has another purpose in offsetting the extra
weight due to winter flying clothing.
Ralph Burlingame
-----Original Message-----
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wed, 28 Feb 2007 10:01 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Minnesota skis - Part 1
Here are the skis I've been flying with for 20 years (see attached).
They are composite water skis with the water hardware removed.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
Minnesota
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Chmielewski" <edchmiel(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: David's Kolb |
Hi Lisa,
You're rightfully proud of that Kolb. It is nice! In the
future though, could you please not send the pic itself? I've seen
where others send a 'link' in the e-mail instead. I received it twice,
247KB both times, and it really slowed down my ol' dial-up connection.
Thanks!
Ed in JXN
MkII/503
----- Original Message -----
From: LISA TURNER
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com ; Kolb-List Digest List
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 8:25 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: David's Kolb
Hi Paul,
Yes, David Key has finished little "Kolbie" as we call her, and I'll
post on my web site within the next few weeks as I finally get around to
updating the web! www.lisaturner.com. We spent three weeks painting
her, it's a beautiful airplane that David fine tuned and test flew, and
has many hours on now. I'll attach a picture.
Lisa
________________________________________________________________________________
Mark Vaughn
-----Original Message-----
From: jtriddle(at)adelphia.net
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thu, 1 Mar 2007 8:32 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Bulb bypass
Pat,
It is called OSHA over here. Occupational Safety and Health
Administration or
somesuch nonsense. Are backup horns required on trucks and tractors in
the UK?
Thom
A buddy of mines wife just got a new Artic Cat Snowmobile and even it
has a back up alarm...
Un real...
Ya know when you think about it all vehicles should have a Forward
Alarm...
Isn't that when most accidents happen ? 8-)
Mark
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
I started looked at some Skis on snowmobile and thought they might be just
the ticket>>
Hi
a friend of mine used the bumpers (fenders?) from an old car and flew all
one winter with them. There was a girl that he reely reely needed to visit.
Anything will do in a pinch. Incidentally he tied them on with binder twine.
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Need trailer ideas for transporting a Kolb Mark III |
| From: | "Flyboy7" <alex777aw(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Kolbers,
I'm new to the forum and to Kolbs. I will be buying a Mark III this spring and
want to keep it at home. My issue is how to trailer. I've got mixed emotions
about open trailering for longer distances due to wind buffeting and road hazards,
but feel that an enclosed trailer is too costly and cumbersome. I'm looking
for ideas on what others are doing. Does anyone have photos of their trailers
or a web site to look at? Thanks for your help
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98132#98132
________________________________________________________________________________
Ahhhhhhhh NO ............
Experimental YES - Suicidal NO HAHAHAHAHA
The short water ski or Snowmobile ski approach seems to be our most
viable
options at the moment..... Their are some really creative ideas out
there...
Thanks to all who cared enough to share....
Mark Vaughn
Hi
a friend of mine used the bumpers (fenders?) from an old car and flew
all one winter with them. There was a girl that he reely reely needed
to visit. Anything will do in a pinch. Incidentally he tied them on
with binder twine.
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
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=0
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <snuffy(at)usol.com> |
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=22765
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Minnesota skis - Part 1 |
Not to confuse anyone about the skis, but the carriage bolts were
used with standard nuts on top and the blind nuts were used on the
bottom front and rear with an "eye" bolt for the rigging.
Ralph
-- "Ralph" wrote:
-- knowvne(at)aol.com wrote:
HI Ralph
I saw your images on the KOLB Web site...
20 years WOW looks like they do the trick just fine...
Are they Wood a Polymer What?
Did you use Carriage Bolts on the bottom to hold
your axial assembly??
Thanks
Mark Vaughn
Mark, they are a composite material for water skis. I don't know what
material it is, but it's like hard rubber. You might contact the
Cascade water ski company and ask them. Be careful when drilling out
the holes in the skis as they have a steel rod running down the
sides.
Find them with a stud detector.
I used 5/16" carriage bolts and blind nuts (hardware store). If you
save the plans to your computer, they are clearer so you can see
everything. I made these plans about 9 years ago.
The skis slide onto the axle through the hole and are held on with
spacers and washers. They were made for the Original Firestar axle
which was 3/4". The new axle is 5/8" and I have to use an aluminum
tube which I slide over the the axle. It works great. Of course, if
they were constructed new, drill out for 5/8" w/o the tubes, but
still
need the washers.
I wax the bottoms with ordinary jelly paraffin wax purchased from a
grocery store. Take the wax and rub it on. No heat needed.
I bought the skis new from "Play-it-Again-Sports" store. They were
$75. These are cheap skis and they work well in heavy snow because of
the ski area. They are low drag too. They tailwheel rod has a
triangular oak block attached with long hose clamps to help protect
the tailwheel. The block has another purpose in offsetting the extra
weight due to winter flying clothing.
Ralph Burlingame
-----Original Message-----
From: ul15rhb(at)juno.com
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wed, 28 Feb 2007 10:01 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Minnesota skis - Part 1
Here are the skis I've been flying with for 20 years (see attached).
They are composite water skis with the water hardware removed.
Ralph Burlingame
Original Firestar
Minnesota
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank & margie" <frank-margie(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Ref;
From: "pat ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: Bulb bypass
the bypass tees before and after the squeeze bulb>>
Hi all,
do you have a history of bulbs fouling over there? Bypasses seems to be
yet another complication and another flouting of the KISS priciple. I
have never noticed anyone here with a bulb bypass set up and I have
never heard of there being a problem.
Is this yet another example of the `it might happen` attitude beloved by
insurers without looking at the actual failure rate?
-------------------------------
I've had a bulb fail-----check valve stuck closed (fortunately on the
ground). I won't use one without a bypass anymore.
As a mattter of fact, I recently installed a Facet electronic pump, in
series, per recent discussions on this forum. (Facet #40105, low
pressure) Only problem was a leaking primer, now that it had pressure
behind it---flooded the engine when I was checking the new installation
for leaks (Pump on, engine not running) A new primer solved that.
Frank Clyma
Orange Park, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank & margie" <frank-margie(at)worldnet.att.net> |
REF:
From: Bob Noyer <a58r(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Primer versus Choke?
Re: safety hose clamps. I've used soft copper instead of
steel...won't cut fuel line, and easier to use on smaller lines. Fire
away, gridleak.
regards,
Bob N. FireFly 070 Old Kolb
-----------------------------------------
Bob,
Please tell us more about your copper clamps. Do you mean copper
wire vs steel, or an Ideal-type screw clamp, or? Where do you get them?
Ref the other current posts on the subject; I've had safety wire
(per Richard Pike) cut the tubing. I probably overtightened it, but
just knowing it could cut into the fuel line has scared me off. I agree
tie wraps don't seal all 360 degrees----but I sometimes still use them
where the nipple length and diameter are probably sufficient to hold the
tube without any clamp, like on the carbs. I've used small tie wraps on
the primer nipples, for 1/8 fuel line----not totally comfortable with
this, but space between the 2 nipples limits what will fit (especially
with the "out" hose being rubber automotive hose).
I've gone to rubber hose for most of my installation. Still use
clear Tygothane from carbs to pulse pump, and from carb primer ports to
where they're T'd into the 1/8 rubber hose----this allows viewing the
fuel flow to confirm the electronic pump and the primer are working.
And have 1/8 clear fuel line from the T in the main fuel line, to the in
port on the primer, due to space limitations.
I'm using Corbin clamps on most connections, rubber and Tygothane.
Use small, narrow, Ideal-type screw clamps in a few
places----particularly on the pulse pump in port; the nipple there is
small dia and short, and an air leak there could really slow down the
pulse pump action (or leak fuel onto a hot engine now that I have the
electronic pump). Also use screw clamps on the pulse line. I've
learned the hard way that screw clamps can be overtightened too, and I
don't like to use them on plastic nipples, as on fuel filters or T & Y
fittings.
This subject has seen quite a bit of discussion B4, but I'm still
looking for better answers in an area that I think bears close watching.
Frank Clyma
Orange Park, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank & margie" <frank-margie(at)worldnet.att.net> |
REF:
I used to have my primer ..."T'd" in my fuel line....
Just thought that was a bad idea....So it has it's own pick up tube from
the fuel
tank now.....
Gotta Fly...
Mike & "Jaz" in MN
...
..
...
blackbird wrote:
> Ok,
>
> The primer "t" goes after the squeeze bulb.......CPS says it must be
mounted
in the horizontal position.....New issue..
-------------------------------------------
My "T" is vertical, and seems to work fine. I kind of like Mike's idea
of a seperate pick up, however, eliminating the T altogether----the 1/8
part of the plastic T sorta seems a little flimsy, makes me wonder if it
might break-----
Frank Clyma
Orange Park, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
I don't like the tywraps for holding tubing; they leave one square corner
unclamped and thus prone to leakage. Worm screw clamps have the same
problem in smaller size, which is why you never see them on new cars. You
*can* buy tywraps made for round tubing:
( http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/113/gfx/large/6705kp2l.gif ) but I've
never used them, preferring to use safety wire.
For tubing I've been using either the yellow Tygon tubing (made for fuel
and oil) or the blue stuff Aircraft Spruce sells. Over on the Quicksilver
list people don't like the blue stuff but could never give a good reason
why, only saying, "it sucks".
-Dana
--
--
Ever notice how fast Windows runs? Neither did I.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb on skis |
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=22765
Snuffy/Bill V:
I remember seeing this video last year, but do not remember him coming
in hot and doing a go around. Question, how does he stop it on that
strip.?
john h
mkIII
PS: Drove through multiple cells, from Tallahassee, FL, to hauck's
holler, AL, this afternoon. When I went through Ozark, the town was
without power and the wind was howling. I did not know that
Enterprise, AL, had already been hit by a tornado. 8 dead. It
demoslished the high school. Troy, AL, rained so hard I could not
see. Just south of MGM hit another big cell of frog stragling rain.
When I got home, it had rained, but no damage. Still waiting to see
what happens before thsi big system moves through our area.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
If everyone in America had a shirt with that design on it, Kolb would be selling
a LOT of planes :) I think its a great idea, shirts, hats, coveralls, Kolb
would benefit as much as you would.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98201#98201
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb on skis |
Question, how does he stop it on that
> strip.?
>
> john h
Don't know how he stopped. Only experience I had with skis was with
a C-120 on Federal 1500's and the places I flew in and out of
stopping was a non issue. Like on Saginaw bay. It's a good idea to
know how far yer plane will slide after touchdown and give yerself
plenty of room. You can sometimes steer into a few snow drifts as
long as there ain't no fences or stuff buried in them. I had deeper
unpacked snow on the north edge of my runway I could steer into to
slow her down quicker if needed. I stayed away from ice with no snow
on it. Also I always carried 2 short 2x4's to put under the front of
the skis so they wouldn't freeze down when I parked her.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
frank & margie wrote:
> *REF*:
> From: Bob Noyer <a58r(at)verizon.net>
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Primer versus Choke?
>
>
> Re: safety hose clamps. I've used soft copper instead of
> steel...won't cut fuel line, and easier to use on smaller lines. Fire
> away, gridleak.
> regards,
> Bob N. FireFly 070 Old Kolb
> -----------------------------------------
>
> Bob,
> Please tell us more about your copper clamps. Do you mean copper
> wire vs steel, or an Ideal-type screw clamp, or? Where do you get them?
>
> Ref the other current posts on the subject; I've had safety wire
> (per Richard Pike) cut the tubing. I probably overtightened it, but
> just knowing it could cut into the fuel line has scared me off. I agree
> tie wraps don't seal all 360 degrees----but I sometimes still use them
> where the nipple length and diameter are probably sufficient to hold the
> tube without any clamp, like on the carbs. I've used small tie wraps on
> the primer nipples, for 1/8 fuel line----not totally comfortable with
> this, but space between the 2 nipples limits what will fit (especially
> with the "out" hose being rubber automotive hose).
>
> I've gone to rubber hose for most of my installation. Still use
> clear Tygothane from carbs to pulse pump, and from carb primer ports to
> where they're T'd into the 1/8 rubber hose----this allows viewing the
> fuel flow to confirm the electronic pump and the primer are working.
> And have 1/8 clear fuel line from the T in the main fuel line, to the in
> port on the primer, due to space limitations.
>
> I'm using Corbin clamps on most connections, rubber and Tygothane.
> Use small, narrow, Ideal-type screw clamps in a few
> places----particularly on the pulse pump in port; the nipple there is
> small dia and short, and an air leak there could really slow down the
> pulse pump action (or leak fuel onto a hot engine now that I have the
> electronic pump). Also use screw clamps on the pulse line. I've
> learned the hard way that screw clamps can be overtightened too, and I
> don't like to use them on plastic nipples, as on fuel filters or T & Y
> fittings.
>
> This subject has seen quite a bit of discussion B4, but I'm
> still looking for better answers in an area that I think bears close
> watching.
>
> Frank Clyma
> Orange Park, FL
>
There's a relatively new 'clamp' for silicone hose that's basically a
ring of heat shrink tubing. I think that it's made by Gates. A friend
has been flying with it on his radiator hoses (alternative engine
homebuilt) for years.
I'll try to find a link if you want it.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Enrichers Vs Primers |
Hi Gang:
Been reading with interest the discussions on primers and their
assorted plumbing and hardware.
I have been using what came with the engines since day one. That
includes my 912 engines, as well as Rotax two strokes. They always
work for me in all temps, low and high. The secret is to use the
prescribed procedure for starting as described in the operators
manual.
1-Throttle closed.
2-Enricher full open.
3-Hit the starter.
The enricher dumps a load of fuel initially, then continues to operate
on a larger idle jet and more air to increase rpm.
I also experienced leaking enricher on the old 447. When I discovered
what it was, put a new part in it and drove on.
The 912 carb does not use the same valve as the two stroke. It is a
rotating valve with "O" rings that seems to work better and last
longer.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Two Stroke Coils and Wire Attachment |
Buford T:
Sorry about the misinformation, reference attachment of plug wires on
your engine. Understand the newer ignitions do not use the threaded
studs, but cement the wires into the ignition modules.
The 912 uses ignition modules and also uses coils which use the same
attachment as my old 447, threaded studs.
20,000 xin loi,
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb on skis |
Thanks Bill V:
All is well at hauck's holler, but the folks down in Enterprise, AL,
did not fare so well. Last report I got was 9 dead. Tornado hit the
high school.
Seems the little kolb tail wheel would make a good brake. Just haul
back on the stick once the plane quits flying.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford T" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Two Stroke Coils and Wire Attachment |
John: ....no sweat, G.I....and certainly no xin lois req'd... I'm gonna
just go at it from the other end... I KNOW those caps screw off... It would
sure help if those nazi bastards would put something about it into the
manuals.. I spent almost 2 hours chasing that on Google and in my
documentation... never did find anything...
Really bad about what happened in Enterprise this evening... I feel for
those poor parents. Wonder if Mother Rucker got any of it...? Did you
get any at your place? Heard Wetumpka mentioned on Fox a couple of times
today...
b.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 01, 2007 9:28 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Two Stroke Coils and Wire Attachment
>
> Buford T:
>
> Sorry about the misinformation, reference attachment of plug wires on
> your engine. Understand the newer ignitions do not use the threaded
> studs, but cement the wires into the ignition modules.
>
> The 912 uses ignition modules and also uses coils which use the same
> attachment as my old 447, threaded studs.
>
> 20,000 xin loi,
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "olendorf" <olendorf(at)gmail.com> |
>From Orlando, FL. Orlando Sentinel :
SANDY CREEK -- The bodies of two men were discovered in the wreckage of an ultralight
aircraft Wednesday, a day after the plane was reported missing, authorities
said.
A fellow pilot spotted the wreckage of the Kolb Mark III ultralight shortly before
8 a.m. and alerted authorities, according to the Bay County Sheriff's Office.
The Bay County Sheriff's Office Search and Rescue Unit located the bodies soon
after the pilot's report, authorities said.
The bodies of the pilot, Joseph Peter Lagerloef, 69, of Panama City, and his passenger,
Claude Frank Phillips, 63, of Lynn Haven, were recovered, reports said.
The men took off from Sandy Creek Airstrip about 10 a.m. Tuesday and were reported
missing that evening, sheriff's officials said.
A flight plan had not been filed.
It was not clear where the men intended to fly.
The Federal Aviation Administration was investigating the crash.
--------
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 447, Powerfin prop
Schenectady, NY
http://KolbFirestar.googlepages.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98236#98236
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need trailer ideas for transporting a Kolb Mark III |
| From: | "Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
Need trailer ideas for transporting a Kolb Mark III
From: "Flyboy7" <alex777aw(at)yahoo.com>
"Flyboy7" wrote: << ... how to trailer. I've got mixed emotions
about open trailering for longer distances ... I'm looking for ideas on
what others are doing. Does anyone have photos of their trailers or a
web site to look at? >>
Hi, Alex - Welcome to the Kolb List!
I frequently transport my Mark-III on an open trailer.
Last May, I trailered it from Albuquerque to Monument Valley, to attend
our annual "Kolb Unofficial, Unorganized Monument Valley Fly-In." About
450 miles each way. The Kolb did fine. My arrangement has the nose
pointing forward. If you secure it properly, to prevent flight surfaces
from flapping and keep the wings from swaying back & forth, your Kolb
will do just fine on an open trailer.
I built a special fuselage support dolly for my plane that also has
padded saddles to support the wings. It sits on an old tire on the
trailer deck to help absorb road vibration.
Someone on this List (I do not remember who) has collected various
pictures of Kolbs on trailers, and has posted them on his website. (Can
anyone provide this website?) Also, check the archives - there was much
discussion on this topic last October.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-III, 912ul, 65 hrs tt
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need trailer ideas for transporting a Kolb Mark III |
| From: | "George Alexander" <gtalexander(at)att.net> |
Dennis, Alex(?), et al:
Trailer stuff:
http://gtalexander.home.att.net
Click on "Trailering a Kolb"
Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland. wrote:
> Someone on this List (I do not remember who) has collected various
> pictures of Kolbs on trailers, and has posted them on his website. (Can
> anyone provide this website?)
> Dennis Kirby
> Mark-III, 912ul, 65 hrs tt
> Cedar Crest, NM
--------
George Alexander
http://gtalexander.home.att.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98304#98304
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need trailer ideas for transporting a Kolb Mark III |
Hi Alex,
I have an all aluminum trailer that I put together for my firefly for SnF
two years ago that I am not using.
contact me offlist if yu are interested
steve
**************************************
AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank & margie" <frank-margie(at)worldnet.att.net> |
REF;
There's a relatively new 'clamp' for silicone hose that's basically a
ring of heat shrink tubing. I think that it's made by Gates. A friend
has been flying with it on his radiator hoses (alternative engine
homebuilt) for years.
I'll try to find a link if you want it.
Charlie
-------------------------------------------
I'd like to have the link!
Thanks,
Frank Clyma
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
frank & margie wrote:
> *REF;*
> **
> There's a relatively new 'clamp' for silicone hose that's basically a
> ring of heat shrink tubing. I think that it's made by Gates. A friend
> has been flying with it on his radiator hoses (alternative engine
> homebuilt) for years.
>
> I'll try to find a link if you want it.
>
> Charlie
> -------------------------------------------
>
> I'd like to have the link!
>
> Thanks,
> Frank Clyma
>
Remember, this is for coolant hose. Smallest dia listed is 1/2".
Go to
http://www.mcmaster.com/
& type 'hose clamp' in the search engine, then click 'coolant hose
clamps'. It should jump to the plastic shrink to fit hose clamps.
For just a little reality check, there's now a hose for something like
250 psi that doesn't require a clamp; just uses the retention of the
barbs to hold it on the connector.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Have always heard that true "Possums" can
| meet in the middle of a 40 acre field, at midnight, on a moonless
night, and
| instantly establish one another's bonafides by merely "sniffing" one
| another....(Not further specified...)
|
| Beauford
Beauford:
You're talking about ground bound possums. We is flying possums. Don
't do no sniffing. We have a secret hand shake and pass word.
Well,..........I believe I am supposed to have them. Right now, all I
have is my airplane and possum shirt. And I am proud of both.
john h
mkIII
Official Possum
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Landing distances |
After some careful, but not scientifically accurate, measurements, I've
determined the following for my aircraft:
Min takeoff: 400'
Min landing: 500'
Realistic takeoff: 500'
Realistic landing: 600'
This is in a Kolb Mark II with a Rotax 503, flying consistently at gross
weight of 750 lbs. I do have brakes, but they're the go-cart cable type and
hardly effective. They're not useful on landings or for short field takeoff
technique, only for slowing down while taxiing.
How do these compare to what the rest of you experience?
-Ken Fackler
Kolb Mark II / N722KM
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing distances |
Really! 500 ft for landing???
Two foot ball fields end to end ???
I would have thought less...
Is this also the case for a Firestar II ????
The KOLB site doesn't list the landing distance but has
take off at 200 ft with a 503... Do we assume at Gross weight ?
How far off are these figure???? 8-/
Thanks!
Mark Vaughn
-----Original Message-----
From: kfackler(at)ameritech.net
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Fri, 2 Mar 2007 10:57 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Landing distances
After some careful, but not scientifically accurate, measurements, I've
determined the following for my aircraft:
Min takeoff: 400'
Min landing: 500'
Realistic takeoff: 500'
Realistic landing: 600'
This is in a Kolb Mark II with a Rotax 503, flying consistently at
gross
weight of 750 lbs. I do have brakes, but they're the go-cart cable
type and
hardly effective. They're not useful on landings or for short field
takeoff
technique, only for slowing down while taxiing.
How do these compare to what the rest of you experience?
-Ken Fackler
Kolb Mark II / N722KM
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
from AOL at AOL.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing distances |
> Really! 500 ft for landing???
> The KOLB site doesn't list the landing distance but has take off at 200 ft
with a 503
> Do we assume at Gross weight ?
Like most mfgs of any sort of product, I'm sure they put the figures out
that have the most "wow" factor. Not to say they're wrong, but they probably
were generated under the most favorable conditions imaginable: a very light
ship with a very light pilot carrying a gallon or two of fuel on a low DA
day and with a stiff headwind. Don't get me wrong, I love my Kolb! But as
you say, what's realistic?
I don't claim to be a 'hot stick' so it's quite possible others can fly
their ships at slow enough speeds, and possibly with some help from flaps
which I don't have, and get it slow enough to stop much more quickly. But
that's why I asked, to see what others are doing.
-Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
Had a message to you bounced. Returned marked `over quota`
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Southern Reflections" <purplemoon99(at)bellsouth.net> |
Is it possible to be a member of the "possums" without going through
sniffing thing?,if so would being a"possum" make it possible to get closer
look at those" Brains" Joe N101HD
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 10:51 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Hose Clamps
>
> Have always heard that true "Possums" can
> | meet in the middle of a 40 acre field, at midnight, on a moonless
> night, and
> | instantly establish one another's bonafides by merely "sniffing" one
> | another....(Not further specified...)
> |
> | Beauford
>
> Beauford:
>
> You're talking about ground bound possums. We is flying possums. Don
> 't do no sniffing. We have a secret hand shake and pass word.
> Well,..........I believe I am supposed to have them. Right now, all I
> have is my airplane and possum shirt. And I am proud of both.
>
> john h
> mkIII
> Official Possum
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing distances |
Ken,
I easily cut that in half, no wind.
On Mar 2, 2007, at 10:57 PM,
wrote:
>
> After some careful, but not scientifically accurate, measurements,
> I've
> determined the following for my aircraft:
>
> Min takeoff: 400'
> Min landing: 500'
>
> Realistic takeoff: 500'
> Realistic landing: 600'
>
> This is in a Kolb Mark II with a Rotax 503, flying consistently at
> gross
> weight of 750 lbs. I do have brakes, but they're the go-cart cable
> type and
> hardly effective. They're not useful on landings or for short field
> takeoff
> technique, only for slowing down while taxiing.
>
> How do these compare to what the rest of you experience?
>
> -Ken Fackler
> Kolb Mark II / N722KM
> Rochester MI
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing distances |
>a very light
>ship with a very light pilot carrying a gallon or two of fuel on a low DA
>day and with a stiff headwind.
>
>I don't claim to be a 'hot stick' so it's quite possible others can fly
>their ships at slow enough speeds,
Depends on the ship
Short Field landings
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4011065178040668060&hl=en
These guys are good.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
N27SB(at)aol.com wrote:
> Has someone posted a source for these magic clamps or are the just part
> of the possum joke?
>
> steve
yes:
> Remember, this is for coolant hose. Smallest dia listed is 1/2".
> Go to
> http://www.mcmaster.com/
>
> & type 'hose clamp' in the search engine, then click 'coolant hose clamps'. It
should jump to the plastic shrink to fit hose clamps.
>
> For just a little reality check, there's now a hose for something like 250 psi
that doesn't require a clamp; just uses the retention of the barbs to hold it
on the connector.
>
> Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing distances |
Bet a Kolb could catch the #3 wire.... ONCE hahahahaha
Mark Vaughn
-----Original Message-----
From: possums(at)bellsouth.net
Sent: Sat, 3 Mar 2007 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Landing distances
>a very light
>ship with a very light pilot carrying a gallon or two of fuel on a
low DA
>day and with a stiff headwind.
>
>I don't claim to be a 'hot stick' so it's quite possible others can
fly
>their ships at slow enough speeds,
Depends on the ship
Short Field landings
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4011065178040668060&hl=en
These guys are good.
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
from AOL at AOL.com.
=0
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need trailer ideas for transporting a Kolb Mark III |
| From: | "Flyboy7" <alex777aw(at)yahoo.com> |
Dennis and George,
Thanks for the input and photos. I feel better about the idea of open trailering
after seeing the pics. I love the aircraft cover idea. That is a must have
item for the long hauls I think. The Kolb I'll be getting is coming from Dallas,
TX to the Minneapolis area so I would like to have it protected. Has anyone
used a commercial transporter to move an aircraft?
Alex
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98488#98488
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank & margie" <frank-margie(at)worldnet.att.net> |
REF:
I'll go with you and half the gas...JoeN101HD P S L FLA.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Beauford T" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, March 02, 2007 7:14 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Hose Clamps
>
> Gents:
> Password...? Handshake...? Have always heard that true "Possums"
can
> meet in the middle of a 40 acre field, at midnight, on a moonless
night,
> and instantly establish one another's bonafides by merely "sniffing"
one
> another....(Not further specified...) If you two "Possums" should set
out
> to test this hypothesis, by all means call me first... Would be well
> worth the drive up from Florida to observe...
>
> By the way... what's this got to do with hose clamps, anyway...?
....no...
> don't answer that.......
---------------------------------------------------------
I'd like to go on that trip, now we're down to 1/3rd the gas-----glad
the humor hasn't deserted this forum, anyway-----I miss some of the
technically informed who've opted out, like Topher and Honda Don.
While looking around at other hose clamps in the McMaster Carr reference
(thanks Charlie) I found "ear clamps". They don't go quite small enuf
(in McM-C) to cover the 1/8 fuel line application, which is the one I'm
most concerned about------but the ones used for the 1/16 oil injection
tubing on my 503 might work. Don't know why I didn't think of them
B4----this old age stuff creeps up on you, wonder how bad off I'll be
when I get as old as some ex-chopper pilot from AL?
Frank
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Winter high speed taxi |
| From: | "Craig Nelson" <Craig.Nelson(at)heraeus.com> |
<> We <> nt <> f
<> ly <> ing with a friedn in his R44 today
had a blast
Uncle craig
Don't archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Winter high speed taxi |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Great pictures. That engine fairing looks really cool on the MK-III. Makes me
want to go flying :)
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98546#98546
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRatcli256(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Winter Air Speed Indicator |
Hi All,
Received my Winter ASI today.
There is a part in the box that looks like it would make a good "Pot" pipe.
Must be for either the pitot or static hookup. Can anyone tell me which?
John Ratcliffe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Winter Air Speed Indicator |
| Must be for either the pitot or static hookup. Can anyone tell me
which?
|
| John Ratcliffe
|
John R:
That is the pitot. However, you can use any straight tube for a pitot
if you wish.
I have a Winter and use a PT-17 pitot/static system, vintage WWII.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRatcli256(at)AOL.COM |
| Subject: | RE: Winter Air Speed Indicator |
John H,
I assume that the bowl portion faces the front as a pitot tube. However is
very short.
Seems I've read that the pitot tube should stick out into air that's not
disturbed by the fuselage or wing.
Then again I suppose, if extended out most of the length of the stem (about
3") it would be past the boundary layer and wouldn't stick out where someone
would be likely to bump it.
Also has a much larger opening (7/16" ID) then say a 5/16" alum tube. Would
that provide a more accurate ram air source ???
John R.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Winter Air Speed Indicator |
| Also has a much larger opening (7/16" ID) then say a 5/16" alum
tube. Would
| that provide a more accurate ram air source ???
|
| John R.
|
John R:
Don't think the diameter of the pitot tube matters. Large or small
diameter, they all give you the same pressure indication.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 2/28/2007 6:49:17 P.M. Central Standard Time,
frank-margie(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
My 503 DCDI is real sensitive to plug gap------try resetting the plugs to
.016. I use NGK BR8ES, and replace at 25 hours. I've also seen plugs that
wouldn't fire as strong if they'd been wet, as in flooded engine or lots of
preservative oil.
Frank Clyma
Orange Park, FL
Frank,
I went to the hangar today. I put seafoam into the back cylinder
and let it soak while I replaced my strobe light. I then ran the 447 on the
plugs that were in it already. My RPMs were at 6030 tied down. That was up
from 5970. I put in new BR8ES plugs and fired her up.She went right on up to
6270 rpms. That is only 20 rpms less than what I got when I originaly set the
IVO. Ran great on the way to another airstrip about 9 miles away. The old
plugs were very clean looking with a hint of light brown grey on them, but the
new plugs bumped the rpms up another 240 . You were right on! Thanks for
your input!
Ed (ff 62 running strong for the moment)
**************************************
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email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Unless you are having static problems with your radio, lose the BR8ES
plugs and go with B8ES instead. The extra resistance certainly does not
not improve the spark, and unless you are having radio hash noise, you
don't need the extra resistance.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
----- Original Message -----
From: DAquaNut(at)aol.com
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, March 03, 2007 11:38 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RPM Drop
In a message dated 2/28/2007 6:49:17 P.M. Central Standard Time,
frank-margie(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
My 503 DCDI is real sensitive to plug gap------try resetting the
plugs to .016. I use NGK BR8ES, and replace at 25 hours. I've also
seen plugs that wouldn't fire as strong if they'd been wet, as in
flooded engine or lots of preservative oil.
Frank Clyma
Orange Park, FL
Frank, I went to the hangar today. I put seafoam into the
back cylinder and let it soak while I replaced my strobe light. I then
ran the 447 on the plugs that were in it already. My RPMs were at 6030
tied down. That was up from 5970. I put in new BR8ES plugs and fired
her up.She went right on up to 6270 rpms. That is only 20 rpms less than
what I got when I originaly set the IVO. Ran great on the way to
another airstrip about 9 miles away. The old plugs were very clean
looking with a hint of light brown grey on them, but the new plugs
bumped the rpms up another 240 . You were right on! Thanks for your
input!
Ed (ff 62 running strong for the moment)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
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________________________________________________________________________________
Regarding spark plugs for the 503 This is off the Aero Propulsions Web
site..
Spark Plugs:
The recommended spark plugs are the NGK B8ES or BR8ES.
The "R" denotes a resistance which helps suppress radio interference.
The use of spark plugs with a solid tip, rather than the screwed-on tip,
is mandatory. The latter can unscrew itself in flight and dislodge the
spark plug connector cap, creating an ignition failure.
Spark plug gap:
Allowable range: 0.4-0.5mm / .016-.020"Optimal: 0.45mm / .018"
The gap can be reduced to its allowable minimum to help starting in
very cold conditions
Things to be avoided:
Other spark plug models and other manufacturers' equivalents Screwed-on
tips Unverified spark plug gaps
WHAT IS SEA FOAM?
SOUNDS LIKE AN OIL FOR USE ON MOTORS THAT HAVE BEEN SITTING FOR A
WHILE... YES / NO
Mark Vaughn
-----Original Message-----
From: DAquaNut(at)aol.com
Sent: Sat, 3 Mar 2007 11:38 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RPM Drop
In a message dated 2/28/2007 6:49:17 P.M. Central Standard Time,
frank-margie(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
My 503 DCDI is real sensitive to plug gap------try resetting the plugs
to .016. I use NGK BR8ES, and replace at 25 hours. I've also seen
plugs that wouldn't fire as strong if they'd been wet, as in flooded
engine or lots of preservative oil.
Frank Clyma
Orange Park, FL
Frank, I went to the hangar today. I put seafoam into
the back cylinder and let it soak while I replaced my strobe light. I
then ran the 447 on the plugs that were in it already. My RPMs were at
6030 tied down. That was up from 5970. I put in new BR8ES plugs and
fired her up.She went right on up to 6270 rpms. That is only 20 rpms
less than what I got when I originaly set the IVO. Ran great on the
way to another airstrip about 9 miles away. The old plugs were very
clean looking with a hint of light brown grey on them, but the new
plugs bumped the rpms up another 240 . You were right on! Thanks for
your input!
Ed (ff 62 running strong for the moment)
--------
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
from AOL at AOL.com.
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
________________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 3/4/2007 9:16:58 A.M. Central Standard Time,
knowvne(at)aol.com writes:
WHAT IS SEA FOAM?
SOUNDS LIKE AN OIL FOR USE ON MOTORS THAT HAVE BEEN SITTING FOR A
WHILE... YES / NO
YES Please no more questions about on seafoam on the list even though
it is a little slow right now. It is supposed to be a carbon remover, There is
a lot about it in the archives. Some swear by it, but the subject has been
ridden pretty hard, and is a sore subject to some on the list . I dont want to
be flamed for starting anything!
Ed Do Not Archive
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________________________________________________________________________________
John H. My apologies....
Clearly this 2 stroke Aphrodisiac has gotten you too hot and bothered
to answer the question... 8-)
Ignorant 2 2 strokes
Mark Vaughn
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
from AOL at AOL.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks Ed
No worries of being flamed from me... I'm absorbing as much as I can
from these topics..
BTW
Those who have a Thread issue also own a Delete Key... 8-)
HEY HERE'S A THOUGHT
If this lists purpose is to inform pilots then shouldn't it be used to
inform ALL PILOTS and
not just those who ALREADY know it all ???? 8-) ALL types are sitting
around this digital camp fire...
ED here's a cold one... Toss another log on the fire I'm truly
absorbing the warmth of the topics...
Thanks again 8-)
Ignorant to 2 strokes
Mark
WHAT IS SEA FOAM?
SOUNDS LIKE AN OIL FOR USE ON MOTORS THAT HAVE BEEN SITTING FOR A
WHILE... YES / NO
YES Please nomore questions about on seafoamon
the list even though it is a little slow right now.
It is supposed to be a carbon remover, There is a lot about it in the
archives. Some swear by it, but the subject has beenridden pretty hard,
and is a sore subject to some on the list. I dont want to beflamed
for starting anything!
Ed
________________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)msbit.net> |
X-mailer: Pegasus Mail for Windows (4.41)
> The recommended spark plugs are.......
Recommended......
> The use of spark plugs with a solid tip, rather than the screwed-on tip,
> is mandatory.
Slightly deform the screw on cap in a vice and screw it on....it
won't come off.
> Things to be avoided:
> Other spark plug models and other manufacturers' equivalents Screwed-on
> tips Unverified spark plug gaps
Don't see why.....heat range is the driver here, not mfg, model,
composition, etc. I've got over 300 hrs on a set of plugs (not the
mfg recommeded ones, either) that look like they're from a four
stroke.
Jim Baker
580.788.2779
Elmore City, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Petty" <paulpetty(at)myway.com> |
I sell and used these on my Kolbra/912. Nice and clean looking.
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=927&location_id=546
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
painting and reassembly
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98678#98678
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Jim
Please don't shoot the Messenger......
I was merely listing what I found on the Aero Propulsion website...
To be honest I don't know why we can't just install Glow Plugs and use
Diesel 8-)
HAHAHAHA
SHOWS YA WHAT I KNOW .. 8-)
ignorant 2 2 strokes..... Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: jlbaker(at)msbit.net
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sun, 4 Mar 2007 1:05 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: RPM Drop
> The recommended spark plugs are.......
Recommended......
> The use of spark plugs with a solid tip, rather than the screwed-on
tip,
> is mandatory.
Slightly deform the screw on cap in a vice and screw it on....it
won't come off.
> Things to be avoided:
> Other spark plug models and other manufacturers' equivalents
Screwed-on
> tips Unverified spark plug gaps
Don't see why.....heat range is the driver here, not mfg, model,
composition, etc. I've got over 300 hrs on a set of plugs (not the
mfg recommeded ones, either) that look like they're from a four
stroke.
Jim Baker
580.788.2779
Elmore City, OK
________________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Don't see why.....heat range is the driver here, not mfg, model,
| composition, etc. I've got over 300 hrs on a set of plugs (not the
| mfg recommeded ones, either) that look like they're from a four
| stroke.
|
|
| Jim Baker
Jim B:
Just an added note.
Be careful switching brands of spark plugs with different brands of
spark plug wire caps. I ran into a problem with Bosch plugs many
years ago, when they first came out with a platinum tip plug. Great!
A plug that would be better than the BR8EV and for a fraction of the
cost. Plug worked great, but not with the NGK plug wire cap. Had to
get some Bosch plug wire caps that were molded to match the ribs on
the Bosch plugs. This kept the caps from wobbling around on the spark
plug.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
Another Great FYI
Thanks John...
Be careful switching brands of spark plugs with different brands of
spark plug wire caps. I ran into a problem with Bosch plugs many
years ago, when they first came out with a platinum tip plug. Great!
A plug that would be better than the BR8EV and for a fraction of the
cost.
I wonder if the Rotax manufacture ever does Bench tests using such
suggestions to see if it effects or improves their products
performance????
After all it says EXPERMENTAL on the plane NOT the MOTOR 8-)
Ignorant 2 2 strokes
Mark
________________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RPM Drop/Bosch Spark Plugs |
Mark:
Eric Tucker, Rotax two and four stroke "guru" explained to us in the
last class I attended a year ago, that Rotax had a difficult time
maintainer suppliers for any length of time. For example, the
question was asked, "Why doesn't Rotax put fuel injection on its 912
series engines?" Answer was, lack of a supplier that would stay the
course. It cost a great deal to certify an engine and its
accessories, which does not affect us UL and experimenters, but does
cost them a mint for their certified line. Uncertified parts for
Rotax are the same as certified except the certified part has a
serial number to track it, and ours don't.
Rotax has been using NGK plugs since the very early years.
I had good luck with Bosch WR4CP Platinum plugs and metal jacketed
Boxch plug wires for a 4 cyl Volvo, about 1975 vintage. Back in the
mid 80's that would make two sets of wires for a 447. Now it will
make one set of wires for a 503 or 582. Probably still available and
cheaper than Rotax supplied parts. This plug worked great on my 447.
Never fouled another plug after I started using them and they lasted a
very long time.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Not a good idea at all. The problem is not making it stay on, the problem is
that you are using aluminum in a place that requires steel. The solid top
spark plugs have a steel top, while the screw on spark plug tops are
aluminum. The problem arises when the Rotax plug cap is snapped onto the
aluminum spark plug top. There is a hard steel spring wire in the Rotax plug
cap which holds it on and provides continuity. When it is snapped over the
aluminum plug top, the engine vibration causes it to quickly eat it's way
into the aluminum. Even though you deform the screw-on aluminum top, it is
still going to be chewed up/worn away in a way that the solid steel spark
plug top will not. You will end up with a Rotax plug cap full of aluminum
dust and a wobbly poor connection. Eventually you will have to buy a new
Rotax plug cap because the aluminum crud will ruin it.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)msbit.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 1:05 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: RPM Drop
The use of spark plugs with a solid tip, rather than the screwed-on tip, is
mandatory.
Slightly deform the screw on cap in a vice and screw it on....it won't come
off.
Jim Baker
580.788.2779 Elmore City, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not? |
| From: | "John H Murphy" <jhm9812(at)yahoo.com> |
I'm a little confused about which NGK plug works "best" in the Rotax engine. What
are the upsides and downsides of the resistor type BR8ES NGK Spark Plug? I'm
figuring the upside is the ability to reduce noise in my radio. Am I trading
off noise for a less reliable spark plug?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98708#98708
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not? |
Probably not less reliable. If it was less reliable, Rotax wouldn't tell you
to use it.
But the hotter a spark I can have, that's what I want. If I don't need a
resistor plug, then I won't use one.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
----- Original Message -----
From: "John H Murphy" <jhm9812(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 5:26 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not?
>
> I'm a little confused about which NGK plug works "best" in the Rotax
> engine. What are the upsides and downsides of the resistor type BR8ES NGK
> Spark Plug? I'm figuring the upside is the ability to reduce noise in my
> radio. Am I trading off noise for a less reliable spark plug?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98708#98708
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not? |
Spark Plug? I'm figuring the upside is the ability to reduce noise in
my radio. Am I trading off noise for a less reliable spark plug?
John M:
There is not enough difference in performance between resistor and
non-resistor plugs to measure. Most engines are equipped with
resistor plugs. I know the 912 series engines are factory equipped
with resistor plugs. Rotax would not install a spark plug that was
less reliable than another, especially in a two stroke. The NGK
resistor plugs and Rotax have been operating many, many successful
hours.
What does Rotax put in the two strokes now days?
My 2 cents worth.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RPM Drop/Bosch Spark Plugs |
John,
My 447 came from with factory with BR8ES and that is what my manual
recommends.
Ed
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not? |
| From: | "Paul Petty" <paulpetty(at)myway.com> |
But the hotter a spark I can have, that's what I want
Brother Richard,
The heat range of a spark plug does not refrance the heat of the spark but rather
the heat transfer of the spark plug to the cly head as Eric Tucker explained
to me in the 4 stroke school If i remember it correctly :D
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
painting and reassembly
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98728#98728
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not? |
Assuming that you have an ignition system in perfect condition, I'm sure
it's not worth measuring. But if one of us might some day have the
remarkable misfortune to have an ignition system that is putting out less
than it should, (Unthinkable! Rotax ignition systms are surely failure
proof) or leave a spark plug in too long and let it get cruddy (Never
happen, GI) then you might be glad to have as little resistance in your
system as possible.
Especially if you don't need it, which is my whole point.
Here is a link to the difference between resistor vs non-resistor plugs:
http://www.ultralightnews.com/enginetroublshooting/resistorcapsandplugs.htm
Here is a line to the CPS tech page on plugs
http://www.800-airwolf.com/pdffiles/ARTICLES/part9.pdf
-which says that using both a resistor cap and a resistor plug can cause
problems.
And which I have experienced in the past.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
PS: I know perfectly well what Rotax puts in two strokes these days, just as
I know what stock Kolbs are like. But if that is all that matters, why do
any of us change anything?
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 5:59 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not?
>
> Spark Plug? I'm figuring the upside is the ability to reduce noise in
> my radio. Am I trading off noise for a less reliable spark plug?
>
> John M:
>
> There is not enough difference in performance between resistor and
> non-resistor plugs to measure. Most engines are equipped with
> resistor plugs. I know the 912 series engines are factory equipped
> with resistor plugs. Rotax would not install a spark plug that was
> less reliable than another, especially in a two stroke. The NGK
> resistor plugs and Rotax have been operating many, many successful
> hours.
>
> What does Rotax put in the two strokes now days?
>
> My 2 cents worth.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)msbit.net> |
X-mailer: Pegasus Mail for Windows (4.41)
> Be careful switching brands of spark plugs with different brands of
> spark plug wire caps.
Ah, tis true. Too bad we just can't graft on a set of full length
silicone boots.....
Jim Baker
580.788.2779
Elmore City, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)msbit.net> |
X-mailer: Pegasus Mail for Windows (4.41)
> Please don't shoot the Messenger......
> I was merely listing what I found on the Aero Propulsion website...
Didn't mean to slam a door on you, such was not my intent, tho it
sure sounded that way when I re-read my reply. My apologies.
Often, advice from such sites must be evaluated critically.
> ignorant 2 2 strokes..... Mark
May I recommend....
http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/jennings.htm
Kinda hard to read since it's just page images but the info is all
there from one of the leading two-stroke practitioners.....
Jim Baker
580.788.2779
Elmore City, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not? |
This is correct. A hot spark is a spark that I can see jump a big gap in the
daylight as opposed to a cold spark that is so wimpy it can only be seen in
the dark, and may or may not fire the plug. Having a hot spark has nothing
to do with heat range. Apples and oranges.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <paulpetty(at)myway.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 7:45 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not?
>
> But the hotter a spark I can have, that's what I want
>
> Brother Richard,
>
> The heat range of a spark plug does not refrance the heat of the spark but
> rather the heat transfer of the spark plug to the cly head as Eric Tucker
> explained to me in the 4 stroke school If i remember it correctly :D
>
> --------
> Paul Petty
> Kolbra #12
> Ms Dixie
> painting and reassembly
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98728#98728
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)msbit.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not? |
X-mailer: Pegasus Mail for Windows (4.41)
> But the hotter a spark I can have, that's what I want. If I don't need a
> resistor plug, then I won't use one.
God's-own-Lightning would be a welcome change from the
anemic flicker we now enjoy. Just look at plugs taken from a
modern coil-on-plug vehicle when the owner actually takes the
100,000 mile plug replacement interval as gospel...electrodes
are probably absent and/or reduced to nubbins but still light the
fires reliably....not efficently, but still......
Jim Baker
580.788.2779
Elmore City, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not? |
| From: | "John H Murphy" <jhm9812(at)yahoo.com> |
I was impressed with the CPS article on plugs. I think I'm going to order some
non resistor plugs just in case.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98738#98738
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not? |
| Richard Pike
| MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
|
| PS: I know perfectly well what Rotax puts in two strokes these days,
just as
| I know what stock Kolbs are like. But if that is all that matters,
why do
| any of us change anything?
Richard:
The CDI is super hot. If you let a plug get cruddy enough to foul, it
ain't gonna make any difference if it is resistor or not. Now days,
if you foul a plug, you better not be flying cause you got a serious
problem.
Now..............if you want to fly with a non resistor plug.
Great!!!
I prefer resistor.
You probably light up the airport when you crank.
john h
mkIII
PS: I will sleep better tonight because you know what comes in Rotax
and stock Kolbs. However, to change something for nothing can not be
too gratifying. I have certainly done that many times when I found
out my idea did not work as I thought it would.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | carburetor rebuilt schedule |
| From: | "John H Murphy" <jhm9812(at)yahoo.com> |
How often does one rebuild a carburetor? My engine is how 7 to 8 years old, Rotax
503 DCDI with 190 hours. The carbs work fine as far as I can see.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98743#98743
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not? |
| I was impressed with the CPS article on plugs. I think I'm going to
order some non resistor plugs just in case.
|
John M:
You might check the date on the CPS publication. Sounds to me like it
was written back in the early days when we were flying with point ign
and not CDI which fires through peanut butter.
As far as California Power Systems goes, they have a a lot of articles
written by Mike Stratman who owns the company and makes lots of money
selling you all parts whether you need them or not.
If you have questions reference Rotax engines, why not check with the
source, Rotax? That's what I do.
A CDI system either works or doesn't work. There is no in between
like the old point system.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: carburetor rebuilt schedule |
| How often does one rebuild a carburetor?
John M:
Usually, the parts that wear in a two and four stroke carb are the
little tangs on the floats, the little arms on the float lever, the
posts the floats ride on. Also the enricher valve.
I check mine periodically. If they look pretty worn, I replace the
worn part. Don't do it very often though cause Bing parts are out of
sight.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not? |
Yeah, it's so super hot we have to run a plug gap of .020 max
Whoo Hoo
My wife's motorcycle runs a bigger spark gap...
And as far as lighting up the airport? If I can't hear hash on my home made
recycled radio system, why should I think it would bother other people with
a good system? Anyway, no complaints in ten years.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2007 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not?
>
> Richard:
>
> The CDI is super hot. > I prefer resistor.
> snip>
> You probably light up the airport when you crank.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing distances |
| From: | "lndc" <lndc(at)fnbcnet.com> |
Hi, I used to own an original firestar with a 377. Take off was never over 125'.
Landing about the same maybe a little longer.
Dan Charter
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98751#98751
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| Subject: | Re: carburetor rebuilt schedule |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi All,
The manual says every 200 hrs. for the 912uls and the rebuild kit cost $214 for
the pair from CPS.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98758#98758
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LEE CREECH" <dcreech3(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Winter high speed taxi |
I second the opinion on the fairing. I've always wondered why someone
doesn't design a fairing for the 503 in a Firestar-type installation. Seems
like you could pick up 10 or 15 mph, considering how draggy the unfaired
engine appears to be.
Lee
Firestar II
>From: "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Winter high speed taxi
>Date: Sat, 3 Mar 2007 13:58:22 -0800
>
>
>Great pictures. That engine fairing looks really cool on the MK-III.
>Makes me want to go flying :)
>
>Mike
>
>--------
>"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you
>could have !!!
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98546#98546
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: carburetor rebuilt schedule |
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Roger L:
I'd go broke rebuilding carbs if I built them every 200 hours. More realistically,
take a look at them every 200 hours.
Also of extreme importance for two and four stroke carbs is to pull the float bowl
and check for water and contamination. A drop of water will turn into a lot
of crud that can shut down a two or four stroke.
--------
John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler, alabama
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98764#98764
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: carburetor rebuilt schedule |
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Forgot to mention, check those float bowls at least every couple weeks. At the
longest once a month.
--------
John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler, alabama
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98766#98766
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Thom Riddle <thomriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: carburetor rebuilt schedule |
...The manual says every 200 hrs. for the 912uls and the rebuild kit
cost $214 for
the pair from CPS....
A couple months ago, I removed, cleaned and inspected the carbs on a
Diamond Katana with certified 912F engine at the request of the owner.
(I'm an FAA Powerplant Mechanic so it was legal.) The reason for doing
it was that he had hard starting when hot and rough idle. Upon
inspection I found that both starter jets were wrong number, one too
rich, and one two lean, the mixture adjust o-ring was brittle and
cracked on both carbs. I ordered the minimum of rebuild kits from
Lockwood since they are cheaper than Bing distributor prices and new
starter jets. The whole thing for both carbs was about $60. I replaced
only the parts that needed replacing, cleaned everything, reassembled
it, balanced the carbs and gave the owner the left over gaskets and
o-rings that came in the minimum gasket/seal kit for him to use if/when
they are needed. It runs like a sewing machine now. The condition of
the o-rings as well as inspection of the log books told me that the
carbs had never been removed, cleaned and inspected in a few thousand
hours.
The moral of this story is that manufacturers and parts suppliers make
money by selling parts. IF they can sell you a $214 kit every 200 hours
of use, it accomplishes two things. 1) covers their arse. 2) generates
a lot of un-earned income for them. I did not replace the gaskets and
o-rings that were still in good shape, nor the float mechanism parts
because they were still good and new ones are expensive. If they don't
need it, your replacing them makes the manufacturers and parts
suppliers very happy and your wallet thinner, but does nothing to
enhance the function or operation of your engine. If they are needed,
then by all means replace them, otherwise, why waste your money?
Get to know your engine and listen to it and monitor it very carefully.
It will tell you when it needs attention. It costs nothing but a little
labor to remove, inspect and clean the carbs, so doing it every 200
hours is not a bad idea, but replacing parts that are still good is a
waste of money IMO. If you take apart a Bing Carb please do yourself a
favor and spend the $10 Bing charges for their manual, before doing so,
it is the cheapest and best investment one can make regarding Bing
carbs.
My opinion is cheap, as is my labor or my airplane, but Bing parts
(except for their manual) are outrageously priced.
Thom in Buffalo
________________________________________________________________________________
Jim
Thanks for the Read 8-)
Some abit over my Grey Matter but interesting material just the same...
Thanks
Ignorant 2 2 Strokes...
Mark Vaughn
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: carburetor rebuilt schedule |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi John,
I think Thom makes a good point.
I'm with you on not always rebuilding carbs every 200 hrs. It was only what the
manual stated and a price out of CPS. I believe in inspecting and sync to check
performance. That being said, I would only not follow the book if I did not
have any warranty or insurance.
I think flying is taking care of your aircraft before something becomes an issue.
Sometimes stretching something out to the last penny cost you more later in
money and heartache.
We all believe this to some point, more or less, or we wouldn't change oil, filters
or plugs by the tach, we would wait until we squeezed the last penny out
of our oil, filter and plugs. We all have our own limits on replacement programs
from the manual.
My new plane is warrantied and insured so I pretty much go by the book. The first
incident and they will check your logbook for proper maint. If poor maint.
schedule or a mod. is noted which contributed to an incident then you might as
well not even have a warranty and and not bother with insurance at all.
We all have seen too many people fly and their lives hang on the all mightly dollar
and no matter what you say you couldn't convence them of this. You have a
bigger responsibility to yourself to come home every night. We have had too many
crashes this year for different reasons, but to save a dollar!
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98853#98853
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: carburetor rebuilt schedule/Justified Maintenance |
| We all have seen too many people fly and their lives hang on the
all mightly dollar and no matter what you say you couldn't convence
them of this. You have a bigger responsibility to yourself to come
home every night. We have had too many crashes this year for different
reasons, but to save a dollar!
|
| --------
| Roger Lee
Roger:
Whoa............Amigo.
Maybe you misunderstood what I was saying.
I would not be here today if I scrimped on maintenance, inspections,
and was not a responsible aviator. I wouldn't fly around the patch if
I thought there might be some problem looming ahead if I had not done
my home work.
However, I do not believe in trashing good parts because CPS or anyone
else says to. Carbs are easy because we can see the wear.
I don't stretch oil changes, plugs, or any other maintenance on my
airplane to save a penny, but I don't throw my money away either.
If something needs replacing on the engine I do that, but not replace
the entire engine. Well, maybe this last time I did. Just
kidding......................
john h
mkIII
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| Subject: | jswan/Carburetor rebuilt schedule |
Hello everyone,
been reading your posts on carburetor rebuild...Here is my 2 cents
worth...
when i brought the firestar with the 503 on it to Florida this winter it
became very hard to start. We bought this plane last fall and this was our 1st
experence with the rotax, so we had a lot to learn. Staying near Sebring in
Florida I took off the Bing carbs and took them to Lockwood aviation to have
them rebuilt. They only replaced the parts needed. The engine had about 325
hours and the carbs may have had the same. They found that the jetting was not
correct and replaced those that needed to be. I decided to replace two of the
floats. The engine now starts excellent with pull start, temps run about 1000
deg on exhaust temp and about 200 on cly head temp. correct carburation is
very important. I have not had to adjust the carbs from the way Lockwood set
them....Flying is good here in Florida.....Jim Swan
firestar ll rotax 503 MI in summer and FL in winter
do not archive
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: carburetor rebuilt schedule/Justified Maintenance |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi John,
:D
This is why I hate email. No face to face emotion or immediate dialog.
I did not mean to infer that you did not do what is necessary. It was just a general
statement about what other pilots do at times. I really did not mean to
make you think it was directed at you. You have my apology if I offended you.
I do believe that some parts are replaced prematurely and an inspection will suffice.
I think companies will replace an item because they don't always trust
the individual to be able to test or verify the part's condition.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98925#98925
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop hub extentions |
| From: | "Paul Petty" <paulpetty(at)myway.com> |
Dennis,
I thought the extention was needed to have proper clearance. Without one on my
kolbra the prop would be vert close to the flaps. The reason for this thread was
to find out what everyone is useing. I bought/made 3 before I found the one
closest to what TNK sends out. The problem with the "black" one was it uses the
smaller diamater bolt circle and no lugs (rotax). Daryel at warp was not happy
with this combo. The one Travis sent me for comparison did not have the holes
on the prop side properly sized for the lugs to be "pressed" or "pulled" into
the hub. This has been a real adventure finding out what is used out there.
I have seen it all however I think what we landed on is the closest to right.
If there is such of thing.
p.s. send me a off list e-mail at paupetty(at)myway.com if you need more photos
p.s.s. call me anytime @ 601-480-9979
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
painting and reassembly
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98942#98942
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not? |
In a message dated 3/4/2007 8:41:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jhm9812(at)yahoo.com writes:
I think I'm going to order some non resistor plugs just in case
John Murphy,
You can get NGK B8ES plugs at an automotive store (Pep Boys), but they won't
have the solid caps. They'll have the screw on type caps. But you could
use them as a test to see if it causes radio interference.
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
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| Subject: | Re: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not? |
| From: | "R. Hankins" <rphanks(at)grantspass.com> |
After a careful search of the Rotax Parts manual I replaced my resistor caps and
installed resistor plugs as well. My radio noise decreased; my climb rate did
not. The idle seems to be just a touch rougher, but temps were in the low
60's this weekend and I didn't lower my needles 'til after I got back home. I
did lots of slow flight, stalls and sink rate testing at an idle and the engine
was a little less smooth, but never even hinted at wanting to die. Throttle
response was positive and instant. Interestingly, the non-resistor plugs are
not listed for the 503 in the current on-line parts manual.
Many of the newer 2 stroke dirt bikes use resistor plug because the R/F generated
by standard plugs can mess with the electronic ignition at high RPMs (or so
a local dealer tells me).
By the way, if you need new caps and plugs, go to sparkplugs.com. They have the
NGK LB50EZ plug caps (same NGK part number as on my 503) for $2.24 ea. Rotax
price is over $16ea. You will have to live with black instead of red; Otherwise
they are identical. They have plugs as well. Just type in "solid" after
the plug number to get the solid tops. Be careful, Aircraft Spruce will send
you screw tops. You would think an aircraft supply outfit would know better (or
at least tell you they are screw tops).
Here is the address to a .pdf of NGK's resistor cap number scheme for anyone interested.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/docs/Resistor_Covers.pdf
Fly when the sun shines, fish for steelhead when it rains!
--------
Roger in Oregon
1992 KXP 503
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98998#98998
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not? |
| From: | "R. Hankins" <rphanks(at)grantspass.com> |
After a careful search of the Rotax Parts manual I replaced my resistor caps and
installed resistor plugs as well. My radio noise decreased; my climb rate did
not. The idle seems to be just a touch rougher, but temps were in the low
60's this weekend and I didn't lower my needles 'til after I got back home. I
did lots of slow flight, stalls and sink rate testing at an idle and the engine
was a little less smooth, but never even hinted at wanting to die. Throttle
response was positive and instant. Interestingly, the non-resistor plugs are
not listed for the 503 in the current on-line parts manual.
Many of the newer 2 stroke dirt bikes use resistor plug because the R/F generated
by standard plugs can mess with the electronic ignition at high RPMs (or so
a local dealer tells me).
By the way, if you need new caps and plugs, go to sparkplugs.com. They have the
NGK LB50EZ plug caps (same NGK part number as on my 503) for $2.24 ea. Rotax
price is over $16ea. You will have to live with black instead of red; Otherwise
they are identical. They have plugs as well. Just type in "solid" after
the plug number to get the solid tops. Be careful, Aircraft Spruce will send
you screw tops. You would think an aircraft supply outfit would know better (or
at least tell you they are screw tops).
Here is the address to a .pdf of NGK's resistor cap number scheme for anyone interested.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/docs/Resistor_Covers.pdf
Fly when the sun shines, fish for steelhead when it rains!
--------
Roger in Oregon
1992 KXP 503
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=98999#98999
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not? |
At 11:43 PM 3/5/2007, R. Hankins wrote:
>
>Here is the address to a .pdf of NGK's resistor cap number scheme for
>anyone interested.
>
>http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/docs/Resistor_Covers.pdf
That's good info, thanks for the link. Interesting... I used to have an
old Quicksilver weightshift (with the 15hp Yamaha engine). It had a cap
that was made to slip over the stud (not solid) terminal spark plug cap
with the terminal removed; there was a spring loaded metal ball that
pressed on the threads. This would seem to be a good solution; no worries
about obtaining solid cap plugs locally, and no worries about the screw on
cap coming loose since you already removed it. Confused the hell out of me
at first, though. Apparently that's the "F" instead of "E" in the part number.
BTW, all this talk of resistor plugs... my understanding was always that if
you have a resistor cap you should NOT also use resistor plugs. Als, that
LB50EZ part number... are you sure it's correct? That NGK page shows
"05" but not "50".
-Dana
--
--
1. Misogynist.........Women are no good
2. Feminist...........Men are no good
3. Environmentalist...People are no good
4. Cannibal...........People are good.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Parts Replacement |
departure from the wholesale replacement of components,
i,
quite right Bob. I have a friend who has built up a thriving automatic
gearbox replacement business on that principle. Gear boxes are stripped and
inspected against the original spec. If a part meets the spec it goes back
in. If it doesn`t it is replaced.
He now has the main agency a well known French make and does all their gear
boxes in the UK
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
You may remember I was having problems with my radio having lots of
static with a new engine change. I received suggestions that I get a rf
capacitor to stop it. I was unable to do so without going on line and
ordering one. I generally have a bit of trouble buying something that I
can't examine. ( we all have our quirks) One of the problems that I had
with an earlier version capacitor was that it screwed with my RPM's on
my EIS. So I called the gal at EIS and asked her about the problem. She
told me to change to the gray wire out of the rectifier, but that it
would cost me the check for one of my mags. She mentioned a RF choke
from Radio Shack that should do the job of cutting out the static
interference. The numbers are 273-105 and 273-104. Look them up on the
Radio Shack web page. Most all the Radio Shack stores carry them unlike
the capacitor. The cost for both is under $15.00. They work by wrapping
the wire around one of the chokes and the other works by just passing
the wire through it. In a conversation with Roger Hankins, I found that
the choke will eliminate the necessity of matching your RG cable length
to the antenna. I cannot tell you any more about this aspect, perhaps
Roger can clarify that.
The weather finally moderated enough to allow me to fly today, so off
into the wild blue I went with the wife giving me radio checks on the
ground. I am pleased to report that there was "minimal" static with the
use of these, and it APPEARS that the distance has been increased
dramatically. I caped appears, since there has been no exhaustive
testing done. The only thing that I can tell you is that before the
chokes I could only talk to her from about 8 miles. This time there was
no noticeable difference in quality at that distance. Good enough for
me, you can make your own deductions.
I did have to remove the power wire to the 196 gps though. My choke is
placed on the main feed wire from the battery to the main power bar. All
the power originates there through the master switch. The GPS power wire
makes a static build up that culminates in a "pop", then builds again.
Karen can't hear it, but it is quite loud in my head phones. I will wrap
the power wire around a choke and see if that helps. If not then I guess
I am going to have to buy some stock in Delco batteries.
Larry, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: NGK Spark Plugs - resistor or not? |
| From: | "R. Hankins" <rphanks(at)grantspass.com> |
Oops! I fat fingered the part number. LB05EZ is correct.
--------
Roger in Oregon
1992 KXP 503
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99108#99108
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop hub extentions |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
I had some of the same questions about my Prop Extension on my 912-s. I am not
concerned about having lugs or not where it bolts down to the 912's, those bolts
are huge, and the diameter of the pattern is large, meaning the will be lightly
stressed. I have one of the RED extensions you posted in some of your pictures.
I have two concerns about this, first is the taper in the extension
itself down to 2 inches before the flange to attach it to the prop. Second, using
the smaller bolt pattern on the warp puts a LOT more stress on the small
bolts that attach the prop to the spacer itself, these bolts are pretty small
and do break sometimes. The stress on those bolts increases almost exponentially
as the bolt pattern diameter gets smaller. Its just plain dumb using the
smaller pattern when the larger one could be used. Attached is a picture of
my spacer...
I like two things about your hub, first is has no super thin taper in it sressing
the aluminum neck itself. Second is the larger bolt pattern on the prop side
takes a lot of load off the thin prop bolts. ( I also like the cool black
color :) it matches my prop ). One thing I have to ask though is why use 6061
aluminum instead of 7075 ? Isnt 7075 a lot stronger ? If memory serves me
right, isnt the red spacer made out of 7075 ?
Mike Bigelow
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing distances |
| From: | "John Jung" <jrjungjr(at)yahoo.com> |
Ken,
I fly a 503 Firestar II, which should be similar to yours for take-off and landing.
Trouble is, I usually fly at 600 pounds gross, or less. When I have flown
at 750 pounds, both take-off and landing were significantly longer. So, your
numbers don't sound bad to me.
--------
John Jung
Firestar II N6163J
Surprise, AZ
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Monument Valley, Some neat places I have never seen before. |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Here is a video of some really neat places in Monument Valley that I have never
seen before. Click on the link below to see this great video. Also attached
is a nice picture.
http://www.jeffsflightlog.com/movies/20061118_mv2_serenity2.wmv
Enjoy,
Mike Bigelow
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spring clips on float bowls |
| From: | "olendorf" <olendorf(at)gmail.com> |
I have a spring on my clip that goes around the protusion at the bottom of the
bowl. That gives me a little extra protection from the clip coming loose and doesn't
interfere with removing the float bowl. Although I have never seen a clip
come loose either. I do it because the spring was there when I bought the
plane. I can't see any reason to remove it now.
--------
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 447, Powerfin prop
Schenectady, NY
http://KolbFirestar.googlepages.com
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley, Some neat places I have never seen before. |
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot1(at)comcast.net> |
If it isn't taken from a Kolb, it just isn't the same!
--------
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolbra, 912ULS
http://home.comcast.net/~kolbrapilot1
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99188#99188
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R. Hankins" <rphanks(at)grantspass.com> |
When tuning my Firestar antenna I reached a point when trimming the antenna length
didn't improve the SWR. The reading was still a 2.7; not horrible, but I
wanted better. I spent an evening or two reading all of the HAM sites about antennas
and discovered that one can either match the length of the feed co-ax
to the frequency just as one does the antenna, or install a choke or balun to
"divorce" the feed line from the antenna.
I didn't have any ferrite napkin rings around so I trimmed my coax 7" (I got the
theoretical magic length from an online antenna calculator a HAM guy put up
on his site). I now have an SWR of 1.6. The co-ax trim made more difference than
the antenna trim did. I'm no radio expert, I just know it worked for me.
I did read enough to get the impression that antenna design is truly a black
art.
Here is a link to one of the sites I saved in my favorites.
http://www.electronics-tutorials.com/antennas/antennas.htm
If you want to know about antenna stuff, Ask a HAM!
--------
Roger in Oregon
1992 KXP 503
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: carburetor rebuild schedule |
| From: | "The BaronVonEvil" <grageda(at)innw.net> |
Hi John,
As for carburetor maintainence I usually check my carb in the spring just before
the flying season gets going.
I drop the float bowl and check for dirt & muck. It seems no matter how many or
how fine a filter you have, dirt some how manages to get through.
I'll check the jets for build-up of funk and make sure the're clean & secure.
Next check the throttle sleeve, bore and jet needle for condition and wear.
Then its the throttle cable, enrichener cable (if used) and fuel lines & fittings.
Also check the carburetor to manifold rubber coupler for attachment, flexability
and cracks.
Finally, I will inspect and clean the airfilter and re-oil it with the filter manufacturer's
oil.
Usually, if the plane is being used regularly, fresh fuel is being used, the carb(s)
should provide accurate and reliable service.
Nevertheless, vibration, the fuel itself and UV light will take its toll of the
carburetor and its related parts.
It really doesnt take very long to do this work, maybe a half hour for each carburetor.
If you havent done any work on your carburetors I'd say you really need to check
them throughly before heading off into the wild blue yonder.
Best Regards,
Carlos G
AKA BaronVonEvil
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley, Some neat places I have never seen before. |
Sure it is. It's still beautiful. I'm already thinking about when I can get down
there in my Firefly. Maybe next winter. Thanks for posting this video!
John Williamson wrote:
> If it isn't taken from a Kolb, it just isn't the same!
--------
Jim
N. Idaho
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99274#99274
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley, Some neat places I have never seen before. |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
One day we will have a Kolb Video, I will make one when I go :) Dont know if
it will be this year or next, depends on work, but watching those videos makes
me want to go all that much more :D
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99333#99333
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Noyer <a58r(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | gasoline vs. plastics |
Here's a chart of various plastics and their use/non use with gasoline.
Mat'l LDPE HDPE PP/PPCO PMP FEP/TFE/PFA PC Rigid PVC PSF
FN GG GF GF EE FF
GN FF
LDPE---- Low density Polyethylene
Ratings Key
HDPE---- High density Polyethylene
PP/PPCO--- Polypropylene/Polypropylene Copolymer E---
excellent
PMP----
Polymethylpentene G---good
PC-----
Polycarbonate F---fair
PVC--- Polyvinyl
Chloride N---not recommended
PSF---
Polysulfone
first letter applies to conditions @20C
FEP--- Teflon=99
FEP second
letter applies to 50C
TFE--- Teflon=99 TFE
PFA--- Teflon=99 PFA
Now you can check your 5 gal. replacement jugs before buying/leaking.
regards,
Bob N. FireFly 070 Old Kolb
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop hub extentions |
| From: | "Paul Petty" <paulpetty(at)myway.com> |
Mike,
I still have the black tapered hub if you want it. Dont know if the prop side is
the same bolt circle as the Kleiv but your welcome to it. Two things I noticed
about your photo are 1. your prop hub doesn't seam to be completly sandwiched.
Is this normal? 2. Why did you go with castel nuts and cotter pins? Just curious....
One more question does the Kleiv hub have the larger diamater bolt
circle with the bored holes for the rotax lugs? From evey one i have talked to
the rotax lugs and 8mm bolts are the strongest combo for what it's worth.
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
painting and reassembly
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99361#99361
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Petty" <paulpetty(at)myway.com> |
Hey gang lets talk nose cones. I am not real happy with mine as well as others.
I know the fine folks at TNK do their best with these and for the most part they
are holding up but mine is like paper thin. It will crack if you look at it
funny. Wonder if Uncle Craig would consider making us some carbon fiber nose
cones with perhaps some special reinforcements where we might like to mount say
an antenna or something elese?
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
painting and reassembly
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99362#99362
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p3060047_190.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
Somehow I doubt that running coax Through a ferrite ring/loop will alter the
electrical length, Tell me how this works?
regards,
Bob N. FireFly 070 Old Kolb
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
chokes and coils are funny animals, especially when hooked up to radios and
antennas. But in short,,, by running a coax through a ferrite ring will
in effect create a transformer, in that some of the energy traveling
through the wire will cause movement of electrons to run around the ring.
This would stop the offending energy from getting to the radio or from the
radio to the antenna... Depending on the frequency of the interference
and the number of turns around the ring, the size of the ring, the
offending interference can be eliminated.... but on the other hand some of
the RF signal can also be eliminated. As to the electrical length.... it
could or will have an affect on the impedance which could cause you to
change electrical lengths to compensate. but chokes and coils work
generally in 1 of 2 ways... they are designed to block a signal,,, or pass
a signal... what we would want on an antenna would be a pass filter,
designed to pass all of the radio signals in the range we want to use and
block all others. Or if you have interference at a specific frequency,,,
you would want a notch filter to eliminate the offending interference. And
unless you are more skilled than I,,,,, the production of these devices is
not best achieved by a back yard experimenter.
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: gasoline vs. plastics |
| From: | "David Lucas" <d_a_lucas(at)hotmail.com> |
Think I've sorted the puzzle out [Wink]
If I've got it right, then the Teflon based containers are best. Is that right
[Question]
David.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99414#99414
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: gasoline vs. plastics |
>
>Think I've sorted the puzzle out [Wink]
>If I've got it right, then the Teflon based containers are best. Is that right
[Question]
>
>David.
>
David,
When in doubt, place a few shavings or pieces in a clear glass jar filled
with gasoline and see what happens.
According to my CRC handbook polyvinylchloride and vinylchloride acetate
unmodified rigid shows excellent resistance to aliphatic hydrocarbons and
alcohols. The non-rigid or plasticized is rated as poor.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic Peters" <vicsvinyl(at)verizon.net> |
"Hey gang lets talk nose cones"
Hey Paul,
Your right on the nose. I had to cut my original nose from front to
back on the bottom and open it up 1/2 " then reglass it just to get it
to fit over the cage. That still didn't do the trick and nothing would.
I asked TNK for a replacement and got it lickety split no problem.
I haven't had a chance to check the fit yet but you are right it is much
lighter which can be a good thing. It appears to be more symetrical
also.
It's not hard at all to slap a little glass mat and epoxy inside where
you might want it - at the expense of extra weight.
Again your right about Uncle Craig. I'd like to see him make noses for
Kolb.
What I'd like to know is how to attach a skid under them to insure us
complete beginers against an expensive and time consuming repair from
even the slightest nose dinging.
Maybe a vertical partition inside front to back. Maybe Uncle C. would
know how to do that and if it would work.
By the way your prop spacer is perfect! I decided not to use one since I
have flaperons instead of normal flaps and 5" of clearance all around. I
hope it doesn't mean a lot of extra noise.
Vic
912 Maine
Finish Tapiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
Paul, Nice looking nose cone. Why not just get a yard of BID (bidirectional
weave fiberglass) a quart kit of an epoxy you like (EZ Poxy, AeroPoxy and
MGS are all good), and put reinforcements where you want them? Just prep the
area by sanding, wet out your reinforcement, put it in place and squeegee
down a piece of peel ply so the edges don't curl. You can also encapsulate
any metal of phenolic plates so you have a solid area to attach things. Look
on the LongEZ and Cozy builder's sites and you'll find all sorts of clever
ways to do what you want.
The problem with carbon fiber is that it's very pricey, is extremely fragile
if only used to its design specs, and takes an autoclave bake to really get
those properties of light weight and strength. For the homebuilder, there's
no advantage of carbonfiber over "S" glass.
Rick
On 3/7/07, Paul Petty wrote:
>
>
> Hey gang lets talk nose cones. I am not real happy with mine as well as
> others. I know the fine folks at TNK do their best with these and for the
> most part they are holding up but mine is like paper thin. It will crack if
> you look at it funny. Wonder if Uncle Craig would consider making us some
> carbon fiber nose cones with perhaps some special reinforcements where we
> might like to mount say an antenna or something elese?
>
> --------
> Paul Petty
> Kolbra #12
> Ms Dixie
> painting and reassembly
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99362#99362
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/p3060047_190.jpg
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Reeves <mattreeves(at)yahoo.com> |
Lancair builder and all around good guy here - and here's my 2 cents...
Rick is right. Carbon fiber is strong as hell and very very pricey AND there
are some disadvantages to it as well - believe it or not. E or S glass, especially
the lighter weights, are the easiest to work with. Carbon fiber frays
and it needs constant pressure during the cure due to the stiffness, it WILL bow,
even saturated with resin, mostly on the outside of an L shape. On the inside
of an L shape it is much better.
For the application you are discussing, simple E-glass or S-glass is the way
to go. Don't cake on too much resin because it does compromise strength and weight
to add un-necessary resin.
I clean, sand 40-80 grit, clean, and clean (acetone or MEK) the surface first,
paint a thin layer of resin where I want the glass. On a table, I put a layer
of plastic, then E-glass - 1 or 2 layers and a layer of peel ply on top (but
this is not always necessary - just DON'T forget to put it on the TOP, not
the bottom or you will have NO bond) - and then another layer of plastic. Use
a long screw from Home depot with just the threads, no nuts, use just enough
pressure to remove excess resin and air bubbles like a baby rolling pin- if the
cloth turns white, you took out too much resin. The groves in the screw will
allow just enough resin to remain.
Then, mark the top of the plastic sandwich with a sharpie and a ruler - say a
2 inch strip or whatever you want. Cut both sides of the sandwhich. Carefully
remove JUST the bottom layer of plastic (NOT the peel ply side). The remaining
sandwhich will retain the shape of your cut. Lay down the bare saturated
glass side to the part you painted. Gently push out any air bubbles and remove
the TOP layer of plastic which is directly over the peel ply layer which you
are going to leave. Get it as perfect as you want and remove drips with a
rag of acetone but don't mess up your edges. You can even use a small strip
of duct tape over the edges to keep them down while curing. When cured, remove
the peel ply and you'll have one hell of a nice looking strong as hell layup
without too much resin.
Lancair did a bunch of testing a few years back before they would only talk to
millionaires - and found out that too much resin was NOT as strong as this procedure.
I see lots of people paint resin and put in dry glass, paint more resin,
more dry glass, paint more resin, and more dry glass until it's all saturated
way too much and resin is running out all over hell and creation. PLUS
when you finish that way, not only is the strength compromised, it looks like
a crap and is such a sloppy lay up.
Anyway, that's my 2 cents but do whatever you want - after all - it is EXPERIMENTAL
meaning you can do JUST THAT!!!
Have a great day and good luck!
Matt Reeves
Rochester, NY
Richard Girard wrote:
Paul, Nice looking nose cone. Why not just get a yard of BID (bidirectional weave
fiberglass) a quart kit of an epoxy you like (EZ Poxy, AeroPoxy and MGS are
all good), and put reinforcements where you want them? Just prep the area by
sanding, wet out your reinforcement, put it in place and squeegee down a piece
of peel ply so the edges don't curl. You can also encapsulate any metal of
phenolic plates so you have a solid area to attach things. Look on the LongEZ
and Cozy builder's sites and you'll find all sorts of clever ways to do what you
want.
The problem with carbon fiber is that it's very pricey, is extremely fragile if
only used to its design specs, and takes an autoclave bake to really get those
properties of light weight and strength. For the homebuilder, there's no advantage
of carbonfiber over "S" glass.
Rick
Hey gang lets talk nose cones. I am not real happy with mine as well as others.
I know the fine folks at TNK do their best with these and for the most part they
are holding up but mine is like paper thin. It will crack if you look at it
funny. Wonder if Uncle Craig would consider making us some carbon fiber nose
cones with perhaps some special reinforcements where we might like to mount say
an antenna or something elese?
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
painting and reassembly
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99362#99362
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
---------------------------------
Don't pick lemons.
See all the new 2007 cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
| From: | "John H Murphy" <jhm9812(at)yahoo.com> |
I've heard people talk about how much more reliable 4 stroke engines are versus
the 2 stroke variety. Any truth to this? I understand the Rotax 912 engines are
very reliable. Why not more affordable 4 stroke engines on the market?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99441#99441
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rex Rodebush" <rrodebush(at)tema.net> |
I had to do some minor cutting and rewelding on my front frame to get a good fit
with the nose cone. I think the problem was on the lower right and left corners
of the cage.
I'm also building a support structure out from the front cage inside the cone to
attach a combination skid, pull handle and tie down fitting. I should have
it done in a few weeks and will send some pictures if it turns out O.K. The fitting
will attach thru two holes on the bottom of the cone.
Rex Rodebush (early model X-tra)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99442#99442
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
At 10:31 AM 3/8/2007, John H Murphy wrote:
>
>I've heard people talk about how much more reliable 4 stroke engines are
>versus the 2 stroke variety. Any truth to this? I understand the Rotax 912
>engines are very reliable. Why not more affordable 4 stroke engines on the
>market?
There are three primary reasons for the lower reliability of a 2-stroke
engine, all related to the need to mix (whether premix or injected) oil
with the fuel:
* Oil fouls the spark plugs.
* If you forget to add oil (or if the injector pump fails), the engine
will seize.
* If you set the carburetor too lean, the engine will seize.
On the plus side, 2-strokes:
* Cost less than 4-strokes (because they have fewer moving parts).
* Weigh less than an equivalent power 4-stroke
* Are simpler to service (again because they have fewer moving parts).
-Dana
--
--
1. Misogynist.........Women are no good
2. Feminist...........Men are no good
3. Environmentalist...People are no good
4. Cannibal...........People are good.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R. Hankins" <rphanks(at)grantspass.com> |
> ... the production of these devices is
> not best achieved by a back yard experimenter.
One could say the same about building a flying machine... and yet we are all pretty
successful at it. We can get a lot done by learning from people who have
taken the time to combine study with experiment and are willing to share their
results. That is the power of this, and other forums. We are not limited in
what we can accomplish to just our own knowlege.
Ok, I'm off my soapbox now....
--------
Roger in Oregon
1992 KXP 503
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99472#99472
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
After working on my new hawk house all day I needed a break. The wind
had abated finally for the most part, so I rolled out the Firestar. This
time I put the vinyl enclosure on to see what effect it would have on my
speed and noise. Of course without Jack here it is all speculation. :-)
Over all I was pleased with the addition.
If you remember in my last post I complained about the noise from my
GPS. This time I wrapped the power cord in the remaining RF Choke.
Unfortunately it made the noise from the GPS worse, so I guess I am
going to have to stock up on batteries. I do not understand where all
the noise comes from, or why a gps puts out static.
With all my "extensive" testing over I resorted to all out fun. That
meant flying no higher than 50 feet off the sage, and flying contour. I
thought for a little bit about what I would do if the engine quit, but
decided to ignore it and just have fun. I was looking for Coyotes or any
other living thing. I checked out a new property that had just been
sold, and then decided to be a bit more conservative and fly up the hwy.
Still at telephone pole high I had a race with a semi who lost. At WOT I
was doing 82 on the ground, and 72 at 6000 rpms. I flew for about 20
minutes buzzing a Golden Eagle sitting on a Sage bush, and flying up the
creek making knife edge turns, (at least that is what I felt) until it
begin to get dark enough to make landing a necessity. I do feel better!
I like my little hot rod!
Larry, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley, Some neat places I have never seen before. |
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot1(at)tx.rr.com> |
Here are some photos of the same area of Monument Valley taken from a Kolb.
These are large files to keep the effect.
--------
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolbra, 912ULS
http://home.tx.rr.com/kolbrapilot
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99580#99580
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_2079_201.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_2080_845.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_3370_194.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arizona Man <captainron1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Winter high speed taxi |
Hi Craig, that airport looks familiar, I see it on the way ip to PHX. If you are
going to be out this weekend flying I would be interested in flying in to take
a look at your machine. Let me know.
Thanks
Ron (KFHU)
=================================
---- Craig Nelson wrote:
============
<> We <> nt <> f
<> ly <> ing with a friedn in his R44 today
had a blast
Uncle craig
Don't archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
The 4 stroke engine is MUCH more reliable than a 2 stroke. Every certified airplane
in the world uses 4 stroke, every car in the world uses 4 stroke. Even
most dirt bikes and motorcycles are now 4 stroke. There is a really good reason
for this.
Some people that have 2 stroke engines live in a state of denail and will try to
convince you otherwise with all sorts of different "reasons".
Bottom line is, when all is said and done, 2 stroke engines have many more fialures,
problems, etc. than 4 strokes.
Mike Bigelow
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99677#99677
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop hub extentions |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Paul,
What do you mean by sandwiched ? I am including another picture so you can get
a better look at it, if you see something that does not look right please let
me know !
I used cotter pins because they are easy, and I had the cotter pins. Is there
a reason not to use them on the extension ? The Kiev prop is VERY light, and
uses the smaller bolt pattern only. It performs well, is smooth, and quiet,
but the hub and blades are so light that is scares me. It would probably be
fine for a smaller 2 stroke engine, but it does not seem strong enough for a
912-s. The other problem is that if something came off the engine and went into
the prop, the Kiev would surely explode into a million peices :(
I have a Warp drive prop with the larger bolt pattern sitting in the box just waiting
to bolted on :) After seeing how light the Kiev prop is, the small
bolt pattern, and the small neck in the spacer, im just not willing to be the
test case for this setup....
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99680#99680
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
In a message dated 3/9/2007 2:37:38 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
orcabonita(at)hotmail.com writes:
Some people that have 2 stroke engines live in a state of denail and will
try to convince you otherwise with all sorts of different "reasons".
Bottom line is, when all is said and done, 2 stroke engines have many more
fialures, problems, etc. than 4 strokes.
Mike Bigelow
Hi Mike, have to disagree with ya here. "Reasons" Build me a 4 stroke
engine that produces 40 hp at or near the weight of a 2 stroke for my Legal UL
and I will be first in line.
Steve
FF #007 on Floats
**************************************
AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop hub extentions |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Pictures
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99681#99681
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop hub extentions |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Here are a couple pictures..
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99684#99684
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ultralightmikekolbdetail12_20_2006_117_154.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ultralightmikekolbdetail12_20_2006_112_114.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Winter high speed taxi |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Craig,
Aside from making your plane look bad ass cool, did the fairing give you much of
a speed increase ?
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99686#99686
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Winter high speed taxi |
Craig, any idea how much faster the Kolb is with the fairing cf without the fairing?
thanks,
Jim
N. Idaho
--------
Jim
N. Idaho
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99696#99696
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
In a message dated 3/9/2007 6:03:04 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com writes:
For street bikes it was due to Environmental Regulations. The only
2-strokes on the street any more are the little 49 cc. scooters, or antiques.
For off road use and MX racing, the 2-stroke still provides the best power
to weight ratio, but the 4-strokes are gaining in popularity.
Bill Varnes
Good point Bill, I own an older 2 stroke Vespa Scooter (Germans call them
Rollers) and a newer 4 stroke. The 2 stroke is lighter, Quicker and more
nimble. It also gets better mileage. all this on 50 cc vs 150cc.
What is interesting is the fact that the transmission is a constant speed
type that tends to focus the rpm in a tight range. Makes you consider the idea
of running your 447 in that 5600 to 6100 range doesn't it? Over 6000 miles
at 30 mph and no problems. Not bad for one cylinder the size of your thumb.
steve
strokin 2 at a time
**************************************
AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
Mr. Murphy,
Let me reply to your question with a terribly long but pertinent discorse on the
2 cycle/4 cycle subject.
This question cannot truly be answered because it does not have enough parameters.
It is kind of like asking iwhich is better a Ford or Chevy. When a person
eliminates brand loyalty and gets down to the details..not enough parameters.
For instance..which is better, a Corvette, or a Pinto? And what features weigh
the most in your desires? GAs milage?, or life? or maybe 1/4 mile speed...or
top speed possibly, or cost.
The issue of reliablility needs more details too. like "Reliable for how long?
So which 2 stroke vs which 4 stroke?
And for how long. Detroit deisel makes 2 cycle engines which are reliable for many
more hours of service than , say..a Rotax 912 or a Lycoming IO-360
Tecumseh makes a small 2 cycle engine that is very reliable for about 50 hours..then
it is wore out and will become unreliable. IT does very well in its intended
market.
One can look at the content of Brother Steve B's answer and determine that Steve's
priority characteristic is power to weight ratio, and it is very hard to create
a 4 cycle engine that can beat a 2 cycle in this arena, so he is right according
to his highest priority.
But if longevity of service is a higher priority, then a 4 cycle might be the winning
choice, but which particular ones? As the above examples indicate, more
specifics are needed.
And of course, how about cost...a factor that certainly might play highly to one
list of "preferred characteristics".
When we isolate our choices to engines suitable and commonly used on aircraft,
which undoubtedly you are thinking. There still needs to be more parameters for
an accurate analysis. Which specific engines and what lifespan is desired or
determined "acceptable " in terms of hours of service before the lack of reliablility
due to excessive wear is discounted as "expected".
Generally 2 cycles run at a higher rpm so they wear faster..But really fast 4 cycles
will wear at near the same rate. Ring/cylinder/skirt wear is a function
of piston speed first...other factors second. This generally gives faster engines
less service lifespan. It DOES NOT necesssarily make them less reliable.
WIth IC Engines, Like with different designs of aircraft, features of performance
are generally all compromises with other features. Fast wings vs low stall
wings. High wing loading vs low wing loading..neither is better than the other
generally, but there are obvious winners when more parameters are given and
priorities arranged by either mission requirements, or other desires deemed most
important.
So in a nutshell, the definition of "reliability" needs an expected service life
parameter to start an accurate....errr..debate!!! [Laughing]
--------
Don G
FireFly#098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99747#99747
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arizona Man <captainron1(at)cox.net> |
I have been thinking about that nose over thing since it was first mentioned here
several years ago. I have to admit till then I didn't even think of that possibility.
But as most of us builders/ designers/ EAA folks are, we try come up
with simple solutions. My solution and I invite commentary on it, not that it
likely to change my mind but it may,, that the easiest way is to tilt the main
gear about an inch forward increasing the moment arm to where the gear would
rather drag than pivot into the muck. Anyone tried that approach, or conversely
how endemic is the nose tipping over potential?
Ron (Arizona)
==============================
---- Vic Peters wrote:
============
"Hey gang lets talk nose cones"
Hey Paul,
Your right on the nose. I had to cut my original nose from front to back on the
bottom and open it up 1/2 " then reglass it just to get it to fit over the cage.
That still didn't do the trick and nothing would. I asked TNK for a replacement
and got it lickety split no problem.
I haven't had a chance to check the fit yet but you are right it is much lighter
which can be a good thing. It appears to be more symetrical also.
It's not hard at all to slap a little glass mat and epoxy inside where you might
want it - at the expense of extra weight.
Again your right about Uncle Craig. I'd like to see him make noses for Kolb.
What I'd like to know is how to attach a skid under them to insure us complete
beginers against an expensive and time consuming repair from even the slightest
nose dinging.
Maybe a vertical partition inside front to back. Maybe Uncle C. would know how
to do that and if it would work.
By the way your prop spacer is perfect! I decided not to use one since I have flaperons
instead of normal flaps and 5" of clearance all around. I hope it doesn't
mean a lot of extra noise.
Vic
912 Maine
Finish Tapiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arizona Man <captainron1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
There are several of us who are building and converting the Suzuki/Geo motors for
the M3X. The down side at least for me being remote from aviation civilization
is,, that I have to figure everything out and then build it. It takes lots
of time to do that. There are a couple of folks that for a price will build you
a plug and play Suzuki motor but then you have to pay for their labor and then
you are still out of about 7k and still have to do some welding on the cage.
If you have the money get the Rotax if you don't then exchange your labor/time
for money for the Geo/zuki or another model motor.
Ron (Arizona)
============================
---- John H Murphy wrote:
============
I've heard people talk about how much more reliable 4 stroke engines are versus
the 2 stroke variety. Any truth to this? I understand the Rotax 912 engines are
very reliable. Why not more affordable 4 stroke engines on the market?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99441#99441
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
Has anyone looked at the HKS 700?
Anybody out there using one who can give us a FYI??? 8-)
Thanks
Mark Vaughn
-----Original Message-----
From: captainron1(at)cox.net
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sat, 10 Mar 2007 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is
more reliable?
There are several of us who are building and converting the Suzuki/Geo
motors for the M3X. The down side at least for me being remote from
aviation civilization is,, that I have to figure everything out and
then build it. It takes lots of time to do that. There are a couple of
folks that for a price will build you a plug and play Suzuki motor but
then you have to pay for their labor and then you are still out of
about 7k and still have to do some welding on the cage.
If you have the money get the Rotax if you don't then exchange your
labor/time for money for the Geo/zuki or another model motor.
Ron (Arizona)
============================
---- John H Murphy wrote:
============
I've heard people talk about how much more reliable 4 stroke engines
are versus the 2 stroke variety. Any truth to this? I understand the
Rotax 912 engines are very reliable. Why not more affordable 4 stroke
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
from AOL at AOL.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Blumax008(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
2-strokes by a landslide.
1,600 hours on my 503 & still going strong. Just got in from cruising the
tree tops on a 1600 hour motor.
Ever tried overhauling a 4-stroke?
Think...Bank Loan.
Think...Time Involved.
Think...a hell-uv-a lot of trouble...for what?
**************************************
AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arizona Man <captainron1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
I think that is about 60 hp, not enough for the bigger Kolbs and especially out
here at the High Desert with density altitudes easily in the 7-9k warmer months.
You need lots of HP or a turbo charger to get it flying without sweating it
in more ways than one.
Ron (Arizona)
================================
---- knowvne(at)aol.com wrote:
============
Has anyone looked at the HKS 700?
Anybody out there using one who can give us a FYI??? 8-)
Thanks
Mark Vaughn
-----Original Message-----
From: captainron1(at)cox.net
Sent: Sat, 10 Mar 2007 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is
more reliable?
There are several of us who are building and converting the Suzuki/Geo
motors for the M3X. The down side at least for me being remote from
aviation civilization is,, that I have to figure everything out and
then build it. It takes lots of time to do that. There are a couple of
folks that for a price will build you a plug and play Suzuki motor but
then you have to pay for their labor and then you are still out of
about 7k and still have to do some welding on the cage.
If you have the money get the Rotax if you don't then exchange your
labor/time for money for the Geo/zuki or another model motor.
Ron (Arizona)
============================
---- John H Murphy wrote:
============
I've heard people talk about how much more reliable 4 stroke engines
are versus the 2 stroke variety. Any truth to this? I understand the
Rotax 912 engines are very reliable. Why not more affordable 4 stroke
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free
from AOL at AOL.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
| From: | "R. Hankins" <rphanks(at)grantspass.com> |
> 1,600 hours on my 503 & still going strong. Just got in from cruising the tree
tops on a 1600 hour motor
How many cranks have you gone through in your 503? I'm pushing the 400hr mark
and wondering if the near $1000 for a crank is worth the peace of mind. If I
don't change it now, then when? Its crazy that I can rebuild the engine in my
Honda Civic cheaper than buying a crank for my 503.
--------
Roger in Oregon
1992 KXP 503
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99808#99808
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop hub extentions |
| From: | "Paul Petty" <paulpetty(at)myway.com> |
Mike,
Look at the side view of your prop hub. Notice how the 2 "Halfs" dont completely
touch at the top but almost touch at the bottom. The warp is completely closed
when torqued to spec. Yours might be fine. Just a thought.
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
painting and reassembly
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99811#99811
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop hub extentions |
| From: | "Paul Petty" <paulpetty(at)myway.com> |
Mike,
As for the cotter pins and castle nuts. I dont know if they pose a problem or not.
I was just curious why you used them over nylocks. Some told me this rule
of thumb when it comes to AN hardware. "If the bolt goes through a rotating part
i.e. control stick or any part that moves use drilled bolts castle nuts and
cotter pins. IF the part is to be bolted tight or torqed to spec use undrilled
bolts and nylock nuts" Cant remember who told me that. But is on this fine list.
Question, what is the torque on the prop hub on the Kleiv?
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
painting and reassembly
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99814#99814
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop hub extentions |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Paul,
The torque on the prop bolts is 14.5 foot-lb, for both the 6 that holds the prop
to the spacer, and also 14.5 foot-lb for the bolts that clamp the blades down
( 2 each for a total of 6 ). I used a very accurate torque wrench and was
very careful to get the torque perfect on each bolt. I also used the sequential
pattern to attach the prop to the spacer. The picture you see is a fully tightened
and adjusted prop... I never really paid attention, but looking at the
picture I have no idea why the space varies a bit between the hub halves.
The 2 halves never touch together anywhere, there is a space along the enitre
hub.
Do most people use Nylock on the prop bolts ? It would have certianly been easier
and I would like to change them if that is the way to go. I had to file washers,
or add them to get the correct torque so that the cotter pin grooves lined
up with the holes. It was a pain in the arse !!!
Every time I look at your spacer, I like it more :) Nice, thick, strong, and
a cool black color that matches my prop.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99848#99848
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop hub extentions |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Looking agian, yours is silver, but it could be anadozied. I do like the thick
neck of yours. The taper to a very thin 2 inches on my spacer and the black
spacer you have in your pictures one scares me on the Kiev Prop, I really would
not trust it on the much heavier warp drive prop.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99850#99850
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II HKS Conversion |
| From: | "Dave Bigelow" <up_country(at)hotmail.com> |
Ive finally finished the installation of the HKS 700E on my Firestar II. I started
the engine and did ground runs to pitch the propeller so the engine would
not exceed 6,000 RPM. Maximum RPM for the HKS is 6,200 for three minutes, and
maximum continuous RPM is 5,800.
Im using the same two blade 66 inch Powerfin that I used with my 2.58:1 gearbox
Rotax 503. The HKS gearbox has the same ratio. I had to add 2 degrees of pitch
over what I used with the 503, which tells me that I should get more thrust
with the HKS.
The engine idles nicely at 1,500 RPM, and is noticeably smoother and quieter than
the 503. The whole package weighs about 20 pounds more than the Rotax 503
installation. The dual ignition requires 12 volts, and is wired to the hot battery
bus (direct to battery in parallel with the engine generator driven rectifier).
The fuel system consists of two 12 volt solid state pumps plumbed in parallel.
Engine instruments are dual CHT/EGT, oil temperature, oil pressure, volt meter,
and fuel tank gauge. I used the Stratomaster Smart Single engine instruments,
and mounted them on the right side of the pilot seat. Also, I installed Jerry
Olenicks (Green Sky Adventures) HACMan mixture control, which allows manual
leaning of the mixture for flight at higher altitudes.
The biggest two challenges were the engine mounts and locating and plumbing the
oil system. Jerry Olenick (HKS dealer) and I worked together to design a mounting
system that uses the existing Firestar Lord engine mounts without any cutting
or welding being necessary. The engine position on the mounts is critical,
since if it is too far back or too low, the exhaust manifolds interfere with
the wing fold system. Jerry is going to sell a mounting kit for the Firestar
once we have all the bugs worked out.
I rigged the Firestar this morning, and did some taxi tests. Engine vibration
through the airframe is noticeably less that with the Rotax 503. Also, it takes
less engine RPM to get moving and maintain on the grass, which is not surprising,
since there is now more prop pitch. I was really tempted to just take
off, but restrained myself, since my strip is only 600 feet long, and is at 5,000
feet density altitude. By the time you are moving fast enough to detect a
problem, you are too fast to abort. Ill trailer the Firestar to the Waimea Airport
this week and do the test flights there where there is 5,000 feet of runway.
Ill post the test flight results as soon as I can.
--------
Dave Bigelow
Kamuela, Hawaii
FS2, HKS 700E
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99876#99876
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/firestar_hks_instrument_panel_855.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/firestar_hks_engine_instruments_171.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/firestar_hks_taxi_test_1_533.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/firestar_hks_engine_1_381.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/firestar_hks_hawaii_pasture_runway_693.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/firestar_hks_engine_8_206.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kolb Fly-In at KHZR |
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot1(at)tx.rr.com> |
Do we have anybody besides me that would be interested in a Kolb Fly-In on 14 July
2007?
I am looking at piggy-backing on the EAA Chapter Fly-In:
"Jul. 14 - Fly-in Lunch - False River Regional Airport (HZR) - New Roads, LA -
Chapter 244 hosts their fly-in lunch featuring their soon to be famous fried
catfish on the second Saturday of every month. Contact Jeff Behrnes - topglock(at)cox.net
or 225-773-9671."
We could arrive on Friday or Saturday and leave on Saturday or Sunday.
It's a great little airport with self-serve fuel and the town is just past walking
distance away.
Speak up if you would attend!
--------
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolbra, 912ULS
http://home.tx.rr.com/kolbrapilot
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99885#99885
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Arizona man meets cuncl craig and Tim |
| From: | "Craig Nelson" <Craig.Nelson(at)heraeus.com> |
_________________________________________________________________________
_____________
The information transmitted is intended only for the person or entity to
which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged
material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination, or other use of, or
taking of any action in reliance upon this information by persons or
entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. Ifyou receive
this in error, please contact the sender and delete the material from
any computer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II HKS Conversion |
IApJbiBhIG1lc3NhZ2UgZGF0ZWQgMy8xMC8yMDA3IDk6Mjg6MjEgUC5NLiBFYXN0ZXJuIFN0
YW5kYXJkIFRpbWUsICAKdXBfY291bnRyeUBob3RtYWlsLmNvbSB3cml0ZXM6CgpJw6Ligqzi
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KioqKioqKioqKioqKioqKioqKjxCUj4gQU9MIG5vdyBvZmZlcnMgZnJlZSAKZW1haWwgdG8g
ZXZlcnlvbmUuICBGaW5kIG91dCBtb3JlIGFib3V0IHdoYXQncyBmcmVlIGZyb20gQU9MIGF0
IApodHRwOi8vd3d3LmFvbC5jb20uCg=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
In a message dated 3/9/2007 10:09:12 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
N27SB(at)aol.com writes:
I own an older 2 stroke Vespa Scooter
Steve,
By golly, I do believe you may have an antique there!
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
**************************************
AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Fly-In at KHZR |
| From: | "Paul Petty" <paulpetty(at)myway.com> |
count me in for saturday/sunday! Might even show up in a yellow Kolbra [Wink]
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
painting and reassembly
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99913#99913
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Fly-In at KHZR |
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
I like Kolb flyins.
Count me in.
--------
John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler, alabama
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99924#99924
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | On the road again............. |
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Hi Gang:
Still on the road. RON beautiful downtown Kingdom City, MO.
Have been able to get the old email system to work on some of the motels' wireless
hookups, and for got about using the BBS until this morning. duhhhhhhhh
Uncle Craig: You can contact me at 334-315-2621.
Ron Mason: Moving main gear forward puts more weight on the tail wheel and reduces
the tendancy of nosing over. However, is also becomes a "true" tail dragger
as weight is shifted to the tail wheel. Takes a little more control touch
to keep the tail where it belongs and not in front of you. Good differential
braking and rudder control will keep you on the straight and narrow most of the
time. I do not worry about getting my mkIII up on its nose. Can do full power
run ups, when the brakes will hold me.
Got to hit the road. Still got 750 miles to go. My mkIII waits patiently to come
home and get updated. Sun and Fun is right around the corner.
Take care,
john h
mkIII
--------
John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler, alabama
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99928#99928
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: prop hub extentions |
Mike
There is no problem using castle nuts with cotter pins on prop bolts. There
is a concern with nylocks in that the torque on the bolt may not be just
right. Most torque specs are given using regular dry nuts or bolts.
Also I see a few props with metal hubs using crush plates. Crush plates are
mostly for wood props. You may not be need to use them on metal or medal hub
props. Check with your prop manufacturer. Powerfin doesn't need them. My
general rule is if it doesn't serve a purpose, I take it off my airplane.
Light planes fly better.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <paulpetty(at)myway.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2007 3:00 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: prop hub extentions
>
> Mike,
>
> As for the cotter pins and castle nuts. I dont know if they pose a problem
> or not. I was just curious why you used them over nylocks. Some told me
> this rule of thumb when it comes to AN hardware. "If the bolt goes through
> a rotating part i.e. control stick or any part that moves use drilled
> bolts castle nuts and cotter pins. IF the part is to be bolted tight or
> torqed to spec use undrilled bolts and nylock nuts" Cant remember who told
> me that. But is on this fine list. Question, what is the torque on the
> prop hub on the Kleiv?
>
> --------
> Paul Petty
> Kolbra #12
> Ms Dixie
> painting and reassembly
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99814#99814
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ms. Dixie update |
| From: | "Paul Petty" <paulpetty(at)myway.com> |
Hi Gang,
I am very happy to report the Airplane is painted. Nose cone and Vertical stab
brackets are drying as I post this. Got the new brake pedels fitted and lines
ran to them. I really like the action of this new design. My wife took my camera
to fla. for spring break so photos will be not so good from the video cam.
Maybe i can shoot some video and put it on youtube. Going to make the mount for
the eletric elevator trim herein a few and try to have the control sticks in
by this afternoon.
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
painting and reassembly
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99956#99956
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable? |
John
This is a rather sensitive subject, so I will try to tread very carefully.
Two stroke airplane engines that are currently on the market aren't as
reliable as four strokes. I don't have any hard data to prove this comment
but if I did I'm not sure those are so adamant would believe it. Just
looking at the rebuild schedule for Rotax two strokes and Rotax four strokes
has to be close to hard data but....
Granted there is a place for 2 strokes. They provide much better power to
weight than four strokes. They also are much less expensive than a four
stroke from the same manufacturer and the are less expensive to fix. But are
the less expensive in the long run????
Why aren't there more four strokes out there? The market is too small and
too dangerous from a liability stand point.
There is the VW engine which can be purchased new with all accessories for
around $4,000.00 to $6,500.00 depending on how much you build and who you
buy it from. There is still not a ideal reduction drive for the engine but
the Valley redrive is serviceable. Over the last few years there have been
two new products that have reduced the weight of the VW engine down to the
weight of a 912 rotax. The new nikasil cylinders cut 10lbs and the new light
weight geared starter cuts two pounds. For those that want more power there
are the new water cooled heads that will stay cool while producing 100HP.
>From first hand experience these engines can be rebuilt for $1800.00 all
moving parts, parts and labor. This results in a 4 stroke engine that costs
about what a 2 stroke costs (maybe less) to buy and rebuild. Is it as
reliable as a two stroke... I think it is much more so. Is it as reliable as
a Rotax 912... I don't think so.
There are also a number of other engines out there that people are working
on. Seems like there are GEOs, BMWs, Jabirus, and others. Are they less
expensive and reliable as a 912 rotax??? Also do they produce the thrust
that a 912 produces????
My $.02 worth
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "John H Murphy" <jhm9812(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 08, 2007 11:31 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more
reliable?
>
> I've heard people talk about how much more reliable 4 stroke engines are
> versus the 2 stroke variety. Any truth to this? I understand the Rotax 912
> engines are very reliable. Why not more affordable 4 stroke engines on the
> market?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99441#99441
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Fly-In at KHZR |
| From: | "cspoke" <cspoke(at)gulftel.com> |
Good food, good people, good airplanes,,,,Sounds like a plan to me, I'll be there.
--------
Craig Spoke
Mark 111 Xtra (in the works)
Lillian, AL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99970#99970
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aileron rolls in a Firestar - It cannot be done? |
| From: | "John H Murphy" <jhm9812(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi All,
Just got back from a two day (16 hour) FAA Inspection course at Rainbow Aviation
in Northern California. Excellent course. I will be able to do all my FAA annuals
on any E-LSA that I own now or in the future. The instruction from Carol
& Brian Carpenter was really first class.
Anyway Brian told the class that the Firestar is unable to complete a aileron roll
because of the wing design. He said the only way to recover is to put the
aircraft in a dive (I hope I have this right).
Not that I intend to do any aileron rolls in my Firestar II but what's the story?
Is this true? Is there a flaw in the Firestar's wing design?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100040#100040
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | End User <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 4 stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more reliable?4 |
stroke versus 2 stroke engines - Which is more
Hey Rick and all, we might add the time wasted fiddling with that
car engine.
I could have built two airplanes in the time I spent on mine.
As far as the suzuki is concerned, the engine has performed flawlessly
with the exception of a possible carb ice one morning early on before
I had crafted a little water heated manifold muff for it.
The weak spot is the redrive, getting the bearing preload just right
on the Raven reduction. The russian made gear reduction might
have saved me a lot of trouble although they are a bit heavier.
I've spent my whole life doing things my way (wrong) the first time.
Not going to change now.
BB, getting warm enough to venture back in the shop for some more
fiddling on the Kolb.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | russ kinne <kinnepix(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | 4 stroke versus 2 stroke |
One more little thing about 2-stroke vs 4-stroke -- the type of use
can affect reliability. Many 2-strokes are used as generators, or
engines on freighters -- where they may run at the same speed for
many many hours, or even days.
This is very different than zzipping around the patch & changing
throttle settings frequently.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New brake pedal design |
| From: | "Paul Petty" <paulpetty(at)myway.com> |
THis is a new brake pedal design by Mark G. He was not happy with performance of
the Matco/Kolb combo. I have a set instaled in a temporay state for testing.
Mark was unaware I had the master cyls with the resevouir made into the cyls
so the clearance is tight. He has a new set on the way and I will send more photos
and video once installed. Here is some pics of what we have so far. They
work really smooth even tho they rub just a tad.
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
Final assembly!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100055#100055
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/pedals_985.wmv
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscn0847_182.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscn0845_627.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscn0844_111.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Fly-In at KHZR |
Hello John/All,
The new will be worn off this thing I just finished building so count me
and my Mark III in.
I'll go anyway the group wants to go; arrive Friday/Saturday and leave
Saturday/Sunday.
Gary Haley
Dry Creek Airport, Cypress, TX (TS07)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
<< ... how endemic is the nose tipping over potential? Ron >>
Cap'n Ron, and Kolbers -
I had a passenger with me on a windy day, and we had stopped on the
taxiway to do our runup. Wind was coming from the side. When I
increased the RPM for the runup, the tail instantly came up. I
throttled back before the nose hoop hit the ground, and the tail settled
back down. This had never happened before. (My passenger, though
silent, looked at me with that "what the hell is happening" look in his
eyes!)
I knew this had something to do with the wind, so tried my runup again
with the stick fully back. No difference - tail came up again when the
RPM reached 3000. Apparently, the wind was strong enough to blow the
propwash away from the tail, making full up elevator ineffective in
keeping the tail down with the forward CG of having a passenger.
Luckly, we did not nose over - but if we had, I would've been glad that
hoop was there to protect the nose cone. ("Training wheel" to some on
this List with more forwardly-located main gear.) Point is, you may
encounter unforeseen conditions that could cause a stock Kolb to
genuflect unexpectedly.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, 912
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Morning Vic:
Homer Kolb designed a great wing that can hardly be improved upon for the type
flying the Kolb aircraft was designed for.
The stall could not be more gentle. However, like anyother airplane, when it quits
flying, it quits flying.
The bow type is a unique design which makes the Kolb wing do the things it does.
Change it and you will mess up something else.
I can not comment on vortex generators. I have no experience with them on a Kolb
or any other aircraft.
I have never found any valid reason to change Homer's wing. Others have, without
improvement, much to their dismay.
I am on the road and can not get this system to send regular email or I would answered
your 's bc.
--------
John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler, alabama
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100062#100062
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Dennis:
What about turning the nose of the aircraft into the wind?
--------
John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler, alabama
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100065#100065
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron rolls in a Firestar - It cannot be done? |
At 04:00 AM 3/12/2007, John H Murphy wrote:
>
>Not that I intend to do any aileron rolls in my Firestar II but what's the
>story? Is this true? Is there a flaw in the Firestar's wing design?
It's not a design flaw; it's just a matter of the design parameters
chosen. The Firestar isn't designed to be an aerobatic ship. The flat
bottom airfoil is good for low speed performance and flying right side up,
but flat bottom airfoils just don't work very well upside down. A Pitts
Special can fly upside down all day long, but it doesn't have any hear the
STOL capability of a Kolb, either.
-Dana
--
--
For people who like peace and quiet: a phoneless cord.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Blackwell <wozani(at)optonline.net> |
My MkII Twinstar was sold this weekend (finally) to Scott MacPetrie of
Michigan. He might need some help from kolb experienced pilots in his area,
so I gave him the list address and encouraged him to visit. Please make him
feel welcome when he shows up.
Charlie, MkII in NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron rolls in a Firestar - It cannot be done? |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
He probably should not have used the term "Unable To complete a Roll". The flat
bottom wing does not fly well upside down, but they do roll. You do not have
to go negative G to roll a plane.
Chances of it being successfully done are probably pretty low, im sure the great
majority of people would screw it up and probably overstress the airplane, or
kill themselves.
But to say it "Cant Be Done", I just dont buy that.
JettpIlot
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100107#100107
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
The further foward the main gear, the much greater tendency there is to ground
loop, and it also puts a lot more stress on the tailwheel.
I would rather have a nose over than a ground loop anyday :)
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100108#100108
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: For Vic Gibson |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Someone needs to sneek out to Haucks Holler and attach some Vortex Generators for
him in the night :) Given the overwhelming positive comments from people
that have Vortex Generators, I think John just might like them.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100111#100111
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New brake pedal design |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Paul,
You are have been posting some neat stuff on the list lately. Makes me wonder
what else you have done that I have not seen. Can you post some pictures of your
entire plane ?
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100112#100112
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flykolb" <flykolb(at)wowway.com> |
Charlie
Where in Michigan?
Jim
Mt Clemens, MI
20 miles north of Detroit
----- Original Message -----
From: Charles Blackwell
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 2:33 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Sold MkII
My MkII Twinstar was sold this weekend (finally) to Scott MacPetrie of
Michigan. He might need some help from kolb experienced pilots in his
area, so I gave him the list address and encouraged him to visit.
Please make him feel welcome when he shows up.
Charlie, MkII in NJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron rolls in a Firestar - It cannot be done? |
Normally in a low performance airplane you would get some speed, raise the nose
20 degrees, then do your aileron roll. The slower the roll response the higher
you raise the nose to start; that way you won't exceed Vne on recovery. The
nose should end up only slightly nose low; not 30 degrees nose down.
--------
Jim
N. Idaho
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100122#100122
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New brake pedal design |
| From: | "Paul Petty" <paulpetty(at)myway.com> |
Mike,
I used to be pretty active on this list as I completed this or that. Then i got
into the areas that were not much to look at AKA Boring. I am about 2 weeks from
taxi testing and things are getting interesting again. This Kolbra as is Mark
Germans have under gone many mods. Mine will be the first (as far as I know)
to have flaps. Electric flaps at that. The reason for electirc was there was
no other way to get it done. I will compile a CD of building photos when I am
finished and weather is no good for flying. Will be happy to sent anyone a free
copy. For now I post photos on MSN
http://groups.msn.com/AerialWorld/kolbra012.msnw
Book mark that site as I add photos almost daily. If there are any areas if interest
let me know. Sheesh I must have over 4000 photos during this 3 year 6 month
project!
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
Final assembly!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100123#100123
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Kmet" <jlsk1(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron rolls in a Firestar - It cannot be done? |
I`ll bet Dennis S. Knows the answer to this.!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "jim" <jim@tru-cast.com>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 4:29 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Aileron rolls in a Firestar - It cannot be done?
>
> Normally in a low performance airplane you would get some speed, raise the
> nose 20 degrees, then do your aileron roll. The slower the roll response
> the higher you raise the nose to start; that way you won't exceed Vne on
> recovery. The nose should end up only slightly nose low; not 30 degrees
> nose down.
>
> --------
> Jim
> N. Idaho
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100122#100122
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron rolls in a Firestar - It cannot be done? |
At 04:46 PM 3/12/2007, jam-n wrote:
>well, the procedure to roll a c-150 or a c-172 is to add power, lower
>nose and roll... maybe toss is a bit rudder. and even then it is a
>wallowed out roll at best. all the time trying to not overspeed nor over
>stress...
>
>so given the limited envelope of an ultralight such as a firestar... how
>could it be done? and would it not be just a wallow through?
Way back when I was young and stupid I allegedly did loops and rolls in
Cessnas and Pipers (and scared the hell out of myself a few times). Only
tried to roll my T-Craft once, the roll rate was so slow it didn't feel
safe (as opposed to snap rolls which it did nicely until I started thinking
about the age of the structure...).
I don't know about a Kolb, what's the roll rate like? (I haven't flown
mine yet.)
-Dana
--
--
For people who like peace and quiet: a phoneless cord.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron rolls in a Firestar - It cannot be done? |
>
>
>I don't know about a Kolb, what's the roll rate like? (I haven't
>flown mine yet.)
>
> -Dana
I don't know exactly, but I think you would fall out of the top of
the roll and be
looking straight down at the ground - watching the little airspeed needle bury
itself. I vote that the roll rate is too slow to get all the way around without
way exceeding the limits of a Firestar - I don't know about the other planes.
Wiggle your wings from 45 right to 45 left and calculate a 360. It's
going to get
slower as you lose speed and come all the way around. Do a loop if you want to
try something that can be done.
Right John H?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron rolls in a Firestar - DANGEROUS MANUEVER |
| From: | jam-n <jghunter(at)nol.net> |
having done many, many aileron rolls and aileron rolls in sequential
groups... in such aircraft as the Navy-Beech T-34 Mentor, M-D A4
Skyhawk... and some in the 2-hole Pitts Special. and others... and...
the C-172 and... yes 'even' the C-150... my experience has shown me...
[keyword ME], that high drag aircraft, with slow roll rates will have,
at best... a pronounced nose low attitude upon recovery. and an
immediate reduction in power is required in an attempt to avoid Vne once
on the recovery side of being upsidedown. it really falls fast in the
last quarter off the upsidedown portion of the roll recovery in a high
drag airframe... and it has been as such Every time!... a big wallow in
a high drag, slow roll bird... and nose low and gaining speed or if done
wrong... slow and approaching an upsidedown stall... to me every time i
have attempted or completed such an event in a slow, high drag airframe
i can only consider it to have been a dangerous maneuver. hardly a safe,
acrobatic maneuver.
no doubt it can be done... and one can wallow thru it... given imo, more
braun in the cockpit than a sense of cool smarts... :) but clearly it is
a DANGEROUS maneuver. " kids, don't attempt this at home!"
in fact, tonite on local 6pm news last item was pix of the acro pilot in
brazil or some place close... high and tight... rolling, flipping,
zipping and all this and that at an airshow... wow... and then... NO
MORE air! " ouch " and he bot the farm in full view of the crowd. even
safe things can get dangerous... and rolling slow, high drag aircraft is
always dangerous...
ymmv, but i am not so sure... ;)
regards
jam'n
>
>Normally in a low performance airplane you would get some speed, raise the nose
20 degrees, then do your aileron roll. The slower the roll response the higher
you raise the nose to start; that way you won't exceed Vne on recovery. The
nose should end up only slightly nose low; not 30 degrees nose down.
>
>--------
>Jim
>N. Idaho
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop hub extentions |
| Also I see a few props with metal hubs using crush plates. Crush
plates are
| mostly for wood props. You may not be need to use them on metal or
medal hub
| props. Check with your prop manufacturer.
|
| Rick Neilsen
|
Rick N:
Warp Drive requires crush plate, per Daryl at Warp Drive.
john h
mkIII
Tunica, MS, RON and 360 miles to go.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| I would rather have a nose over than a ground loop anyday :)
|
| Mike
Mike B:
Not me!
I've done nose plowing with Firestar and MKIII. I can assure you that
ground looping a mkIII with 6' track is really another maneuver to
keep me out of trouble when I get into a situation where I can not
stop before I implant myself on whatever is in front of me. The
ability to ground loop has saved my airplane several times over the
years.
There have been several times I have ground looped when I had no
intention of doing so, too. During a flight to OSH I landed at my
usual refuel airport, Joliet, IL. Took off from Joliet and next
landing was on dry grass on the UL/Lt Plane airstrip OSH. Landing to
the north with a 15 to 25 mph 90 degree cross wind from the west.
Soon as I touched down, with full right brake, wheel locked and
skidding, the tail went right any how, and I did a 180 degree ground
loop in front of God and all the fence hangers at the UL strip. Wings
stayed level, as usual. When I stopped ground looping, I throttle up
and taxied over to the fence, got out, stretched, and went on about my
business. No one, even Frank Beagle in the tower, ever asked me or
kidded me about my ground loop landing at OSH. What happened was the
lose of the right rudder/tail wheel spring, giving me full left
tailwheel and no way to turn it right.
Mike, I have no problem taxiing through sand, mud, tall weeds, rough
terrain because I do have the main gear about 8" forward and over 100
lbs on the tail wheel. I never have a nose over tendancy. I can
relax and taxi my airplane with comfort. Yes, it is more difficult to
land, and at times, take off because it is a "real" taildragger, but
does not take long to learn to live with this and be able to fly good
enough not to kill ones self. It does take good differential brakes,
at times, because you can get ahead of the rudder, and never catch up
until you are facing the opposite direction.
But................don't have to worry about flying around with a
training skid under my nose and my tail sticking up in the air.
However, I do have a bit of time in a lot of standard Kolb aircraft,
and haven't put one on its nose in a long time. Last year at the Kolb
Flyin at Labhart Field was a good example of what one can do with a
standard Kolb in some pretty tough wind conditions and not get the
airplane on its nose. I was flying a FS II. Did not have as much
luck staying dry though. The field was wet, I was making a short
landing at the east departure end of the strip, though I was going to
go over the precipice because the wheels were locked and I was not
slowing up the way I wanted to. I put the FS in a left ground loop
and thoroughly soaked me and the airplane. But........did not go over
the end of the strip. ;-)
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron rolls in a Firestar - It cannot be done? |
The nose should end up only slightly nose low; not 30 degrees nose
down.
|
| --------
| Jim
Jim:
Firestars, especially the early model Firestar, would not roll. I
used to practice hours at a time. Even had my old buddy on the ground
coaching me with a hand held radio. I could get her upside down and
she would fall out of it. Was not problem other than the fact we
could only get half way through the maneuver. No big problem when one
screwed up, turn loose of the stick and she would start flying again.
Amazing little airplane, but.............she was not built for
aerobatics and tried to kill me when she had had enough. Aerobatics
are for aerobatic aircraft. Aerobatics are not for little airplanes
that are not rated as such. I have not done an aerobatic maneuver, on
purpose, in 17 years tomorrow, if I remember correctly.
If some of you all still want to do loops and rolls, hammer heads, and
all the rest of the fun stuff in a Kolb, be my guest. However, please
remember the penalty for performing these maneuvers is a great
possibilty you will die. Thanks, Jim Handbury, for designing and
manufacturing a great deployed emergency parachute. Dennis Souder
used a similar parachute when he folded the wing on the Ultrastar six
years prior.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron rolls in a Firestar - It cannot be done? |
Thanks, Jim Handbury, for designing and
| manufacturing a great "HAND" deployed emergency parachute.
|
| john h
| mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arizona Man <captainron1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Metal or rubber tubes. |
I am about to start ordering fittings, but will wait your responses. This is the
situation; I have the fuel tanks mounted, or rather mounted fitted and now are
off. But now I must decide the plumbing. Ok shall I go with rubber or alum
tubing. Rubber is easier but alum seems to be better for fuel, or is it?
I would like to hear some opinions about pro and cons, and whatever else you folks
have discovered. Craig Nelson used metal and I like the way it looks. On the
other hand with those slip on fittings it make the whole thing an easy afternoon
fun job. No need to flare the tube and try to figure out the sizes and so
on. I essentially have -8 and -6 pipe thread openings in the fuel tanks, and
will carry mogas, I am not sure about the Suzuki on 100LL.
Ron (Arizoan)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Mac." <sdmacp(at)yahoo.com> |
Thanks for the intro Charlie,
Jim, I'm just a few miles up Gratiot in New Haven.
I'd love to take a look at your ship to get some ideas.
--------
Scott Mac.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100216#100216
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)bellsouth.net> |
We are having a "Possum" party at my Dad's house next Saturday He's 80,
March 17th - in Powder Springs, Georgia. Free beer,steaks and lobster.
Bring a sleeping bag - or your wife - if you can't drive home.
Me, Dad, George Murphy, Greg Elliot, Fred Murphy, Bob Leatherwood, etc.
Bill Ferguson,maybe you and maybe John & Charlie? - ask them!!
call me or email me.
770-422-1318
http://www.sullivanhouse.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)bellsouth.net> |
BTW : We close the Wedding House in the winter and just have fun.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tc1917" <tc1917(at)hughes.net> |
I just have to answer to this one about kolbs not being able to roll.
Although I did not witness this, I have it from very reliable sources that
there is a guy, Ronnie, from around Prattville, Alabama. He had a
beautiful, simple, light as could be, Kolb slingshot. In front of hundreds
of witnesses, he took off from Smiths Station, Alabama during an airshow
there and shortly after take-off, rolled the buggy. He did loops, hammer
heads, etc all the time. He stood too close to the prop one day and chunked
his back and shoulder really good and was out of the flying game for a long
time. He has another type aircraft at this time and is still hot doggin
around. If you have never flown a slingshot, as I have for many years now,
you just dont understand how completely maneuverable this plane is. If you
move the stick, it has already done it. It is the most docile plane in
bumps, humps, and cross winds. It will shake those little 22 foot wings a
little and keep on truckin. Drop the flapperons and land in less than three
hundred feet any time you want. I have set it down and stopped in less than
a hundred and fifty feet and this was with the motor still running. I just
know I could stop it in less than seventy five without an engine and still
fly it out. Soooo, to all you that say a Kolb cant roll -- you better check
out the Sling shot for it is the most bestest plane you will ever get your
paws on. I wish I had a pic. You guys that drive the other little Kolb
probably know what I am talking about but it still aint as quick as the
Slingshot. Ted Cowan, Alabama. oh, yeah, plus the cruise is an easy 85 if
you would like with a 582!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Wow,
Not that I would do aerobatics in one, but your message makes me wonder why
anyone would ever want to sell their Slingshot.
Luray, what are you thinking man, take that thing off the market and take a
trip out here to visit this Summer, I'll bet you can find a local Kolb buddy
to fly along with ya too!
Better yet, leave it on the market and I'll bet after you make the trip,
you'll wonder why you wanted to sell it. :-)
OK, enough harrassment for this week.
Denny Rowe, Mk-3
----- Original Message -----
From: "tc1917" <tc1917(at)hughes.net>
> I just have to answer to this one about kolbs not being able to roll.
> Although I did not witness this, I have it from very reliable sources that
> there is a guy, Ronnie, from around Prattville, Alabama. He had a
> beautiful, simple, light as could be, Kolb slingshot. In front of
> hundreds of witnesses, he took off from Smiths Station, Alabama during an
> airshow there and shortly after take-off, rolled the buggy. He did loops,
> hammer heads, etc all the time. He stood too close to the prop one day
> and chunked his back and shoulder really good and was out of the flying
> game for a long time. He has another type aircraft at this time and is
> still hot doggin around. If you have never flown a slingshot, as I have
> for many years now, you just dont understand how completely maneuverable
> this plane is. If you move the stick, it has already done it. It is the
> most docile plane in bumps, humps, and cross winds. It will shake those
> little 22 foot wings a little and keep on truckin. Drop the flapperons
> and land in less than three hundred feet any time you want. I have set it
> down and stopped in less than a hundred and fifty feet and this was with
> the motor still running. I just know I could stop it in less than seventy
> five without an engine and still fly it out. Soooo, to all you that say a
> Kolb cant roll -- you better check out the Sling shot for it is the most
> bestest plane you will ever get your paws on. I wish I had a pic. You
> guys that drive the other little Kolb probably know what I am talking
> about but it still aint as quick as the Slingshot. Ted Cowan, Alabama.
> oh, yeah, plus the cruise is an easy 85 if you would like with a 582!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| If you have never flown a slingshot, as I have for many years now,
| you just dont understand how completely maneuverable this plane is.
Ted C:
You are absolutely right. The SS will roll right up. That is what I
get for trying to write after driving for six days. I also forgot to
mention the Ultrastar will snap roll in the blink of an eye, but the
FS won't.
john h
mkIII
I stand corrected!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aileron rolls in a Firestar - It cannot be done? |
I did not mean to imply that you can do an aileron role in any airplane. That
is not the case, at least not safely. See how well it does through the first
90 degrees. If not satisfied, ABORT. If not confident in your ability and the
airplane, do not try it. It takes a long time to complete that last 270 degrees
of roll in a low performane airplane. Do not apply G while rolling; wait
until wings are level.
Legaly, if experimental you need to be above 5000 agl and wear an approved parachute.
jim wrote:
> Normally in a low performance airplane you would get some speed, raise the nose
20 degrees, then do your aileron roll. The slower the roll response the higher
you raise the nose to start; that way you won't exceed Vne on recovery.
The nose should end up only slightly nose low; not 30 degrees nose down.
--------
Jim
N. Idaho
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100306#100306
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
Finally forced myself to take a day and get the trike up for its first
flight. I realize this is the Kolb list but since Dave in Hawaii is putting
an HKS on a Firestar I decided reporting on engine perfomance wouldn't be a
stretch.
There are two versions of the HKS gearbox, Dave has the 2.58 to 1, I have
the 3.47 to 1.
The engine is mounted on a Northwing Apache Sport trike with a 19M single
surface wing. For those of you unfamiliar with flex wing aircraft, this
combination can be characterized as a boat. Heck, Vne is 55. I found myself
channeling Sammy Hagar while flying, but that's an aside of no consequence.
The empty weight of the trike and my 582 powered Mk 3 are very close as are
the propellor sizes (68" and 66" respectively) and gear box ratios (the C
gearbox on the Mk3 is 4.00 to 1). After the first two landings over the
course of the first hour of flight time, I began to relax and enjoy flying
the trike and make some comparison to the feel of the trike and the Mk3.
The first thing I noticed was how similar the acceleration of the Mk3 and
the trike are, take off runs were roughly the same length and initial climb
out of about 500 fpm is very close. I have a Warp Drive 3 blade on the Mk 3
set so that I get 6200 RPM in climb, which I think is a little steep because
I see Vne before I see 6500 in level flight. Now, many of you have already
brought to my attention that my ASI may be a bit optimistic, so take those
numbers with a grain of salt. I only took the HKS and its 4 blade Power Fin
to 5800 RPM for one take off and used 5500 for the others. I used 5100 to
5200 RPM for climb out after the rotation adjustment (if you think the high
thrust line of the Kolb gives a power pitch coupling, it's virtually
unnoticeable compared to the trike) and that's where I got the 500 fpm
climb. Some of the inability to reach full rated take off power for the HKS
may be as much too big a shoe size as too much prop pitch as the trike has a
foot throttle as well as a hand throttle and I used the foot throttle
exclusively for take off and initial climb. I'll have to do some more
checking here.
The next thing that became apparent is the power curve on the HKS is
essentially flat, just as the literature describes it. The 582 has always
stuck me as peaky in its power delivery. 4000 RPM is about the lower limit
of its usable power in level flight and even with David Clark's on it is
loud, at that RPM or any other. At that same RPM, the HKS is purring quite
nicely even though the only hearing protection I had was a Shoei full face
motor cycle helmet, and the trike could manage a nice 150 to 200 fpm cruise
climb. Usable power for level flight extended down to 3500 RPM. If you
consider the differing gearbox ratios, prop RPM comparisons betwen the two
engines are fairly similar, too.
So there you have it, two data points, both pretty subjective. I can tell
you this, I'm leaning ever more to an HKS on my next Kolb. Now if I could
just decide between the Kolbra and the Extra.
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "wmtatham(at)juno.com" <wmtatham(at)juno.com> |
| Subject: | Mark III w/Jabiru 2200a for Sale |
This is to inform the list members that were putting our Kolb Mark
III Classic up for sale. It is equipped with a Jabiru 2200A 80 hp
engine and was finished in 2003. This is the third Kolb project
weve completed during our 22 years of sport flying. I have over 950
hours left seat time in Kolbs. This Jabiru-powered Mark III has, by
far, been the most enjoyable.
We left our home in Ohio last October and have been snow birds since
then. Weve just accepted an offer on our house and will be
returning to Ohio soon for the closing. Thereafter, we plan to
travel full-time in our motorhome.
It is likely that well be on the road for at least a few years. My
wife and I have wrestled with what to do about the Kolb. Weve
really enjoyed that airplane but have decided to sell it rather than
to turn it into a hangar queen. Since I need to sell it quickly, I
just put it out on Barnstormers with an asking price of $21,500. At
that price, somebody is going to end up with a great plane at a
bargain price. Here are the particulars.:
2003 Kolb Mark III Classic with Jabiru 2200A w/carb economy mod.
180 TTAE. Very nice looking, great flying airplane. Always
hangared, no damage history. Powder coated. CCI VGs. Full swivel
tailwheel. Includes 2 props (Sensenich & Prince). AS, alt, tach,
dual cht/egt, voltage. Steel gear. Wheel pants (new and not
installed) Whelen wingtip nav/strobes. Hyd heel and parking brakes.
F-glas gap seal fairing. Bucket seats with 3-pt harnesses.
headsets and i-com. Full enclosure plus short doors. $21,500
plane located in Findlay, OH 419-348-7075
email - wmtatham(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________
Interested in getting caught up on today's news?
Click here to checkout USA TODAY Headlines.
http://track.juno.com/s/lc?s=198954&u=http://www.usatoday.com/news/front.htm?csp=24
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II HKS Conversion |
| From: | "Dave Bigelow" <up_country(at)hotmail.com> |
I did the first test flights this morning with my HKS 700E powered Firestar II.
The Firstar airframe has 60 hours, but this was the first flight with the HKS
engine. I loaded the FS on the trailer and drove it to the Waimea Airport (2,700
msl) early this morning. Theres an approaching late season cold front over
the western Hawaiian Islands, and the weather was moist with 900 foot broken
at the uncontrolled and lightly used airport. The wind was light and variable.
Airport density altitude was 3,500 feet.
I rigged the FS, did a very thorough pre-flight, and taxied out to the 5,000 foot
runway. My friend, Woody Woods, took videos. The plan was to do a reduced
power takeoff, lift off, and check for trim or any other problems. I added power
and lifted off in a gentle climb straight ahead, checked pitch trim and did
a quick scan of the engine instruments. All was normal, so I added full throttle
and climbed out. I had ground pitched the prop previously for about 6,000
RPM static, and saw 6,200 RPM (engine maximum) during climb, which is exactly
what I was shooting for.
I climbed out as high as I could without touching cloud base and flew around the
airport area within gliding distance of the runway. I ran the engine stabilized
at a number of power settings and noted the engine parameters. CHT was stable
in the 250 degree F range, EGT ranged from 1200 1400 F, depending on power
setting. The EGT bumped the 1400 degree limit of the engine at mid-range
power settings in the 4,800 5,200 RPM range. Above and below this range, EGT
was stable near 1300 degrees. Oil pressure ranged from 26 psi at idle to 75
psi at full throttle. Oil temperature stabilized at 130 degrees F, and remained
there for the entire flight.
I did some power on and power off stalls. I could detect no changes in aircraft
flight characteristics from the Rotax 503 installation. Pitch trim is very
close to that of the Rotax installation, indicating little change in CG position.
I did 8 patterns with touch and gos or stop and gos. My main impression
is an engine that is smooth and has low vibration throughout the operating range.
It is much smoother than the 503. Takeoff and climb performance is very
similar to the 503. It is definitely at least as powerful as the Rotax 503 at
maximum RPM, and produces cruise (55 mph) thrust at an RPM several hundred less
than the 503 did. Throttle response is smooth and immediate, and the RPM is
stable at whatever throttle setting you choose.
I taxied back to the ramp and took a break. My original plan was to fly home to
my 600 foot pasture strip and avoid the wear and tear of trailering home over
pot-holed country roads. My strip is at 4,000 feet MSL (5,000 feet density
altitude). Things looked pretty dark and overcast in that direction, and I decided
to de-rig and park the FS in Woodys hangar until Wednesday, when I could
try again. Just before, I started de-rigging, my wife called and told me it
was open at home. I reversed, took off, and headed home. Had to do some scud
running at about 500 AGL, but things did open up as I climbed the west slope
of Mauna Kea towards home. I did 3 landings and 2 takeoffs on the grass strip.
Lift off was within a very few feet of that with the Rotax 503. I really couldnt
see much difference.
Within 30 minutes of shutting down, the clouds popped, and visibility was about
200 feet with fog and light rain.
My overall impression of the engine is very good. It feels right. My wife says
the noise level on the ground is lower than the 503, and it sounds like a regular
light airplane. An added bonus is fuel usage. I flew for 1:20, and used
3.0 gallons of gas. Thats with lots of up and downs. I plan on raising the
jet needle one notch to see if I can get a cooler mid-range. Other than that,
I cant think of anything that needs tweaking.
When the weather gets better, Woody (in his Super Cub) and I will fly some formation
and see if we can get some airborne pictures. Ill post them.
--------
Dave Bigelow
Kamuela, Hawaii
FS2, HKS 700E
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100385#100385
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/firestar_hks_test_flights4_841.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/firestar_hks_test_flights3_115.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/firestar_hks_test_flights2_870.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/firestar_hks_test_flights1_307.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II HKS Conversion |
| I did the first test flights this morning with my HKS 700E powered
Firestar II.
| Dave Bigelow
Dave B:
Sounds like you are pretty happy with the HKS. Hope it works out and
folks can start flying FS's with 4 strokes.
Is 130F oil temp normal for this engine? Minimum oil temp for the 912
series is 190F. Has to get this hot to cook off condensation.
One thing I noticed was your FS configuration. Looks like sheet metal
leading edges, vortex generators, and a lot more than normal dihedral.
Does that change flight and performance characteristics from a
standard FS?
Glad it worked out safely for you.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron rolls in a Firestar - It cannot be done? |
I was nervous about
| overstressing a 45 year old airframe. I kinda feel the same way now
about
| my Ultrastar.
|
| -Dana
Dana:
I don't know if you read my recent email about aerobatics in aircraft
not certified for aerobatics, especially Kolbs, or not.
The Ultrastar is about as far from an aerobatic aircraft as one could
get. I has a 5 rib wing panel made up of .028 wall 6061-T6 aluminum
tube ribs. That means that each panel is supporting half the weight
of the aircraft on 5 of these little rib noses. That where most of
the stress is. That is where the wing will probably fail if you
decide to become an US aerobatic pilot.
Would like to think that folks have learned something by the mistakes
I made along the Kolb way, that nearly cut my aviation career very
short.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Dresden" <bdres(at)zirkel.us> |
| Subject: | Re: RPM Drop/Bosch Spark Plugs |
> Howdy Kolbers, Bob Dresden here, a long time lurker on the list. Just
> catching up on my mail and noticed this discussion on fuel injection. Hard
> to accept that argument, as HIRTH has been offering FI for awhile, and O
> Yes, it's built by Bing. I'll try to send a pic.
> PS Lord willin, I'll be the guy at MV this year trying to beg a
> ride.
>
> Bob Dresden..Kolbless in Co
>
>
> Mark:
>
> Eric Tucker, Rotax two and four stroke "guru" explained to us in the
> last class I attended a year ago, that Rotax had a difficult time
> maintainer suppliers for any length of time. For example, the
> question was asked, "Why doesn't Rotax put fuel injection on its 912
> series engines?" Answer was, lack of a supplier that would stay the
> course. It cost a great deal to certify an engine and its
> accessories, which does not affect us UL and experimenters, but does
> cost them a mint for their certified line. Uncertified parts for
> Rotax are the same as certified except the certified part has a
> serial number to track it, and ours don't.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Hauck MKIII Fuselage |
Hi Gang:
Here is an index page with 20 photos of my mkIII fuselage.
http://home.elmore.rr.com/jhauck/Hauck%20mkIII/
Click on the file to see the photo.
Give you some idea of the small changes we made in my bird.
If you have any questions about them, let me know and I will attempt
to answer.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II HKS Conversion |
| From: | "Dave Bigelow" <up_country(at)hotmail.com> |
> John Hauck wrote:
>
> Is 130F oil temp normal for this engine? Minimum oil temp for the 912
> series is 190F. Has to get this hot to cook off condensation.
>
> One thing I noticed was your FS configuration. Looks like sheet metal
> leading edges, vortex generators, and a lot more than normal dihedral.
> Does that change flight and performance characteristics from a
> standard FS?
>
> Glad it worked out safely for you.
>
> john h
> mkIII
John,
I'm also thinking 130 degree oil temperature may be a bit low - I'll check with
the HKS people. Minimum for takeoff is 120 according to the book. I am seeing
water droplets condensed on the inside of the oil tank vent line after the
engine cools down.
The leading edges are fiberglass. I don't know if it changed things from a standard
FS, since I've never flown one other than my own.
I added the dihedral to eliminate spiral instability. I put in just enough so
I can let go of the stick without the FS starting a roll-off in one direction
or other. Didn't see much change in flight charactoristics other than roll stability
with the dihedral, but the VG's dropped the stall speed 5
mph, and give much more solid feeling low speed handling. They say they don't
affect the high end, but I think it does require slightly more power for the same
cruise speed. Stall is also more pronounced and abrubt with the VG's - much
like a sailplane laminar wing stall.
--------
Dave Bigelow
Kamuela, Hawaii
FS2, HKS 700E
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100399#100399
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hauck MKIII Fuselage |
| Here is an index page with 20 photos of my mkIII fuselage.
|
| http://home.elmore.rr.com/jhauck/Hauck%20mkIII/
Gang;
Forgot to mention. The reason it is on the trailer in front of the
house is to get it into the basement and begin updating and
repowering. Major updates are new glass all around and rebuild gap
seal. The lexan lasted 15 years and was looking pretty ratty by the
time I took the wings off last month. Will take a little effort to
get the new engine installed and ready to go.
Should be flying in time to make Sun and Fun next month.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hauck MKIII Fuselage |
| Here is an index page with 20 photos of my mkIII fuselage.
|
| http://home.elmore.rr.com/jhauck/Hauck%20mkIII/
Gang:
FTP did not upload all the photos although the files got loaded. Will
scratch my head a bit and see if I can get the rest of the photos
uploaded.
20,000 xin loi's,
johnh
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hauck MKIII Fuselage |
| FTP did not upload all the photos although the files got loaded.
Gang:
Musta scratched the right spot. All the photos loaded this time.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hauck MKIII Fuselage |
| From: | Todd Fredricks <flyingfoxservices(at)mac.com> |
These photos are just great, John. Really shows off Miss P'Fer better than
anything else that I have ever seen. I missed her at OSH the last couple of
years so these are super. Thanks!
Todd
On 3/13/07 11:20 PM, "John Hauck" wrote:
>
>
>
> | FTP did not upload all the photos although the files got loaded.
>
>
> Gang:
>
> Musta scratched the right spot. All the photos loaded this time.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
>
>
>
Todd Fredricks, DO
Family and Aerospace Medicine
flyingfoxservices(at)mac.com
740-350-5266 Voice
815-301-2879 Fax
http://web.mac.com/flyingfoxservices/iWeb/Site/Welcome.html
The evil of the world is made possible by nothing but the sanction you give
it.
-Ayn
Rand
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hauck MKIII Fuselage |
John,
Nice pics, but after checking out all the bumper stickers, I can't seem to
get Hank Snows' song "I've been everywhere" out of my head. :-)
Denny Rowe, mk-3 that has yet to leave the state of PA, even in kit form.
> Hi Gang:
>
> Here is an index page with 20 photos of my mkIII fuselage.
>
> http://home.elmore.rr.com/jhauck/Hauck%20mkIII/
>
> Click on the file to see the photo.
>
> Give you some idea of the small changes we made in my bird.
>
> If you have any questions about them, let me know and I will attempt
> to answer.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hauck MKIII Fuselage |
| Nice pics, but after checking out all the bumper stickers, I can't
seem to
| get Hank Snows' song "I've been everywhere" out of my head. :-)
| Denny Rowe, mk-3 that has yet to leave the state of PA, even in kit
form.
Denny:
Stickers serve several purposes, but the primary purpose is a quick,
easy, and efficient way to cover holes in the fabric, and dings on the
nose pod. In the early days, I used to go through the process of
patching and painting. That soon became too time and labor intensive.
Paint is getting faded and cracked, especially on the tail, but it
still test out good. Will keep on flying it for a while before the
fabric and paint is replaced.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hauck MKIII Fuselage |
Morning Vic P:
The short struts a solid streamlined 4130. They are rigid.
Suspension is created by the heat treated 4130 legs and the soft
tires. What you see on the outside is only a small part of the entire
main gear suspension. There is square tube bridge work on the inside
of the fuselage that carries the load. The original gear leg socket
is used to attach the rear brace only. Was a convenient place to put
it.
The two tube on the tailpost and tailboom ring are lateral bracing for
the tailpost. The ring is the only lateral bracing on the standard
Kolb. The wire bracing is there the keep the vertical and horizontal
components in position only. All lateral forces are directed at the
ring and the connection to the tailpost. I went through several
tailpost failures before my friend Dan Horton came up with the idea of
using these two small braces to beef up the tailpost. It works. I
have had no problem with cracks and breakage since we installed them a
couple years ago.
Adverse yaw depends on prop direction of rotation. 912 rotates
counter clockwise looking at it from rear to front. Two strokes
rotate clockwise. With the 912 the aircraft wants to yaw left when
you come up on power on the ground and in the air. To counteract this
left yaw I have to give it right rudder. Thus, the trim tab is bent
left to push the rudder right and correct for adverse yaw. In cruise,
which is of most concern to me, my mkIII is trimmed up with no pedal
input with the very large trim tab. I believe a lot of the adverse
yaw is created by the spinning prop wash which hits the left side of
the vertical stabilizer pushing the nose left.
The trailer does a great job hauling the mkIII from airstrip 3 miles
home. Especially since the engine is off and no fuel in the tank. It
is a pleasure to maneuver the mkIII by hand when it is this light.
Take care,
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Thompson" <eagle1(at)commspeed.net> |
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Wed, 14 Mar '07
Top News
EASA Issues Airworthiness Directive For Rotax 912 Fuel Pumps
Tue, 13 Mar '07
Affects Several Sport Aircraft Engines
Type Approval Holder=99s Name:
a.. BRP-Rotax GmbH & Co. KG
Type/Model designation(s):
a.. Rotax 912 A series
b.. Rotax 912 F series
c.. Rotax 912 S series
TCDS Number: Austria TW008/89 and TW 009-ACG
Foreign AD: N/A
Supersedure: N/A
ATA 73 Engine Fuel and Control - Fuel Pump - Replacement
Manufacturer(s): BRP-Rotax GmbH & Co. KG; Bombardier-Rotax GmbH & Co.
KG;
Bombardier-Rotax GmbH;
Applicability:
All versions of the engine type Rotax 912 A, 912 F and 912 S all serial
numbers if Fuel pump part no. 892230, 892232, 892540 (standard version)
or part no. 892235, 892236, 892545 (version including flexible fuel
line), are installed.
These engines are known to be installed on, but not limited to, the
following aircraft types:
Skyfox CA-25, CA-25N; Diamond (formerly HOAC) HK-36R Super Dimona, DV 20
Katana; Aeromot AMT-200 Super Ximango; Diamond DA20-A1 Katana;
Evektor-Aerotechnik EV-97 Eurostar; Issoire APM-20 Lionceau; EIS
(Fournier) RF-9; Scheibe SF 36R, SF 25C; Technoflug TFK-2 Carat; WD D4
BK Fascination; III Sky Arrow 650 TC, 650 TCN and 650 TCNS; ABS RF-9
motor glider (Fournier design);
Reason:
Due to high fuel pressure, caused by exceeding pressure in front of the
mechanical fuel pump (e.g. due to an electrical fuel pump), in limited
cases a deviation in the fuel supply could occur. This can result in
exceeding of the fuel pressure and might cause engine malfunction and/or
massive fuel leakage.
Non-compliance with these instructions could result in engine damages,
personal injuries or death.
Effective Date: 09 March 2007
Compliance:
At the next maintenance event, or within the next 25 hours of engine
operation, but not later than 01 July 2007, whichever occurs first after
the effective date of this directive:
a.. replace the affected fuel pumps with part no. 892230, 892232,
892540 by part no. 892542 or replace fuel pumps with part no. 892235,
892236, 892545 by part no. 892546
b.. After the effective date of this AD no person may install a
replacement engine on any aircraft unless fuel pump part no. 892542 or
part no.
892546 are installed.
Ref. Publications: BRP Rotax Alert Service Bulletin SB-912-053, dated 20
February 2007, or later approved revision
Remarks:
1.. If requested and appropriately substantiated the responsible EASA
manager for the related product has the authority to accept Alternative
Methods of Compliance (AMOC) for this AD.
2.. The safety assessment has requested not to implement the full
consultation process and an immediate publication and notification.
3.. Enquiries regarding this Airworthiness Directive should be
referred to the AD Focal Point - Certification Directorate, EASA.
FMI: ADs(at)easa.europa.eu
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n.. AZ TFR: 03.15.07 - 03.19.07
o.. NY TFR: UFN
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=C2=BB Kill Off Much of Aviation
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hauck MKIII Fuselage |
| I like that idea, think I will mooch it for my MKIII.
| Richard Pike
Richard:
Be my guest.
It was a long time coming, and I do not take credit for it. In fact,
when Dan Horton suggested the braces, I was against the idea because I
did not want to add any more stuff outside. He convinced me I would
be pulling the tail section off again soon if I didn't do it. Now
that it is on there, I never notice it. And...........it is doing a
good job.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Emailing: index |
Hey George, this is spam. Quit it.
On 3/14/07, George Thompson wrote:
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> Top News
> EASA Issues Airworthiness Directive For Rotax 912 Fuel Pumps
>
> Tue, 13 Mar '07
> Affects Several Sport Aircraft Engines
>
>
> <http://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?ContentBlockID=1dd6ae25-7461-4c35-a
959-8dba7b925f03&#d><http://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?ContentBlockID=1d
d6ae25-7461-4c35-a959-8dba7b925f03&#d>Type Approval Holder's Name:
>
> - BRP-Rotax GmbH & Co. KG
>
> Type/Model designation(s):
>
> - Rotax 912 A series
> - Rotax 912 F series
> - Rotax 912 S series
>
> TCDS Number: Austria TW008/89 and TW 009-ACG
>
> Foreign AD: N/A
>
> Supersedure: N/A
>
> ATA 73 Engine Fuel and Control - Fuel Pump - Replacement
>
> *Manufacturer(s):* BRP-Rotax GmbH & Co. KG; Bombardier-Rotax GmbH & Co.
> KG;
> Bombardier-Rotax GmbH;
> Applicability:
>
> All versions of the engine type Rotax 912 A, 912 F and 912 S all serial
> numbers if Fuel pump part no. 892230, 892232, 892540 (standard version) o
r
> part no. 892235, 892236, 892545 (version including flexible fuel line), a
re
> installed.
>
> *These engines are known to be installed on, but not limited to, the
> following aircraft types:*
>
> Skyfox CA-25, CA-25N; Diamond (formerly HOAC) HK-36R Super Dimona, DV 20
> Katana; Aeromot AMT-200 Super Ximango; Diamond DA20-A1 Katana;
> Evektor-Aerotechnik EV-97 Eurostar; Issoire APM-20 Lionceau; EIS (Fournie
r)
> RF-9; Scheibe SF 36R, SF 25C; Technoflug TFK-2 Carat; WD D4 BK Fascinatio
n;
> III Sky Arrow 650 TC, 650 TCN and 650 TCNS; ABS RF-9 motor glider (Fourni
er
> design);
> Reason:
>
>
> <http://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?ContentBlockID=1dd6ae25-7461-4c35-a
959-8dba7b925f03&#d><http://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?ContentBlockID=1d
d6ae25-7461-4c35-a959-8dba7b925f03&#d>Due
> to high fuel pressure, caused by exceeding pressure in front of the
> mechanical fuel pump (e.g. due to an electrical fuel pump), in limited
> cases a deviation in the fuel supply could occur. This can result in
> exceeding of the fuel pressure and might cause engine malfunction and/or
> massive fuel leakage.
>
> Non-compliance with these instructions could result in engine damages,
> personal injuries or death.
>
> *Effective Date:* 09 March 2007
> Compliance:
>
> At the next maintenance event, or within the next 25 hours of engine
> operation, but not later than 01 July 2007, whichever occurs first after
the
> effective date of this directive:
>
> - replace the affected fuel pumps with part no. 892230, 892232,
> 892540 by part no. 892542 or replace fuel pumps with part no. 892235,
> 892236, 892545 by part no. 892546
> - After the effective date of this AD no person may install a
> replacement engine on any aircraft unless fuel pump part no. 892542 or
part
> no.
> 892546 are installed.
>
> Ref. Publications: BRP Rotax Alert Service Bulletin SB-912-053, dated 20
> February 2007, or later approved revision
> Remarks:
>
> 1. If requested and appropriately substantiated the responsible EASA
> manager for the related product has the authority to accept Alternativ
e
> Methods of Compliance (AMOC) for this AD.
> 2. The safety assessment has requested not to implement the full
> consultation process and an immediate publication and notification.
> 3. Enquiries regarding this Airworthiness Directive should be
> referred to the AD Focal Point - Certification Directorate, EASA.
>
> FMI: ADs(at)easa.europa.eu
>
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> ------------------------------
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> 2007/03/12
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tentBlockID=9855c4d6-e3a2-41cf-8022-d68d1c1fd4f6&>
> - AZ TFR: 03.13.07<http://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?ContentBlockID
=5a0baa3c-d3f3-482d-b491-81f86a67a817&>
> - CA TFR: UFN<http://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?ContentBlockID=3d4f
0edc-4d9d-4f3a-8eac-5b0aa7631d70&>
> - NC TFR: UFN<http://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?ContentBlockID=5ad5
88d5-b4b4-4831-b007-925b1e36ce99&>
> - AZ TFR: 03.16.07 - 03.19.07<http://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?Conte
ntBlockID=a2ab4ce4-1688-47d4-8910-468bbb7bc0ea&>
> - AZ TFR: 03.15.07 - 03.19.07<http://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?Conte
ntBlockID=63fa9aa3-cf0f-48d3-a9a4-33963593d6e5&>
> - NY TFR: UFN<http://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?ContentBlockID=eee6
5867-23ee-45ff-8790-d66b3c0421e5&>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Daily Survey
>
> User Fees May Be Imminent, and Their Effect May...
>
> =BB Kill Off Much of Aviation<http://www.aero-news.net/SurveyAction.cfm?S
urveyDefinitionID=107&SurveyAnswer=1>
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"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
Hey George, This is spam. The Kolb list is a forum, not your advertising
medium, quit it.
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: email index/Rotax Updates |
I took this differently... I figured George was letting us know about
the
Rotax service information...
DVD
Gang:
Me too.
Glad George Thompson, Arizona Bald Eagle, sent it to the List. I had
forgotten about the update and replacement of the fuel pump on my new
912ULS.
Will get a call in to South Mississippi Light Aircraft, Ronnie Smith,
and see what I have to do to get a replacement.
Nice to be able to do this before I crank the engine for the first
time.
Take care,
john h
mkIII
PS: I take up for my buddy, AZ Bald Eagle. He gives the best and
most frequent rides up and down the hill from camp ground to airstrip
at MV. hehehe
Thanks, George. I look forward to you and your pickup truck with
convenient tailgate again this year. jrh
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hauck MKIII Fuselage |
Vic P:
" Did those cracks in tailpost happen before or after 13LB. tail wheel
and wheels forward."
Tailpost failed because of lateral loads primarily. Like I said
earlier, the only lateral bracing of the tailpost is the tailboom
ring.
The main gear was designed and fabricated when Brother Jim built my
fuselage and other components at the Old Kolb Factory in 1991. Moving
the main gear forward, which automatically added weight to the
tailwheel, also contributed to the tailpost failure. It is not common
and I have never heard of it happening to a standard built mkIII.
" I meant to ask before what size tires did you use and are they still
available. "
I use McCreary 8.00 X 6 4 ply tires and tubes. They are readily
available.
Take care,
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Hi Gang:
Here's what I have to do to shoe horn my mkIII into my basement that
has been used to build three Kolbs and repair and overhaul them more
than I would like to admit.
The main gear have to be replaced with "Ernie gear", named after my
old male Bassett Hound.
What results is a low drag, high speed, narrow fuselage that will just
slip into the basement. Those wheels are the little plastic AZUSA
wheel that came with my FS in 1986. I used the for the first test
flight only. Since, I found a use for them on the mkIII.
Any questions, give me a holler.
I had to take down the other mkIII photos I put up yesterday. FTP
would not cooperate for some unknown reason until I did.
http://home.elmore.rr.com/jhauck/Hauck%20mkIII/
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRatcli256(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fuel Filter / Water Seperator |
Hi gang,
Considering installing a Racor Fuel Filter/Water Separator in place of
regular fuel filter.
Normal Mister Funnel and preflight fuel samples should take care of fuel
source and condensation problems, but with ethanol fuels in our future would this
be enough?
Water and alcohol mix quite readily. Would a water filter tend to separate
the alcohol along with the water from the rest of the fuel? Could a
water/alcohol emulsified mixture get by normal fuel checks?
Not worth worrying about?
Would like to hear general comments and as well as from those who may be
using this type of filter.
John Ratcliffe
**************************************
AOL now offers free
email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Key" <dhkey(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel Filter / Water Seperator |
I use the Racor
http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store/index.php?p=details&mfc=RACOR&sku=120AS&frm=g
It's not very light but it has worked so far.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Fredricks <flyingfox(at)copper.net> |
I want to know more about the whole "Best hand-launched parachute" incident.
Todd
On 3/13/07 6:21 AM, "tc1917" wrote:
>
>
> I just have to answer to this one about kolbs not being able to roll.
> Although I did not witness this, I have it from very reliable sources that
> there is a guy, Ronnie, from around Prattville, Alabama. He had a
> beautiful, simple, light as could be, Kolb slingshot. In front of hundreds
> of witnesses, he took off from Smiths Station, Alabama during an airshow
> there and shortly after take-off, rolled the buggy. He did loops, hammer
> heads, etc all the time. He stood too close to the prop one day and chunked
> his back and shoulder really good and was out of the flying game for a long
> time. He has another type aircraft at this time and is still hot doggin
> around. If you have never flown a slingshot, as I have for many years now,
> you just dont understand how completely maneuverable this plane is. If you
> move the stick, it has already done it. It is the most docile plane in
> bumps, humps, and cross winds. It will shake those little 22 foot wings a
> little and keep on truckin. Drop the flapperons and land in less than three
> hundred feet any time you want. I have set it down and stopped in less than
> a hundred and fifty feet and this was with the motor still running. I just
> know I could stop it in less than seventy five without an engine and still
> fly it out. Soooo, to all you that say a Kolb cant roll -- you better check
> out the Sling shot for it is the most bestest plane you will ever get your
> paws on. I wish I had a pic. You guys that drive the other little Kolb
> probably know what I am talking about but it still aint as quick as the
> Slingshot. Ted Cowan, Alabama. oh, yeah, plus the cruise is an easy 85 if
> you would like with a 582!!
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TheWanderingWench <thewanderingwench(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Rebuilding Fuel Pump |
How often do you folks like to rebuild/replace your
fuel pump? (I've got a 503 DCDI.)
This was a topic at our last club meeting, and Roger
Hankins and I are also discussing it - so I thought
I'd throw it out to this list.
Arty Trost
Sandy, Oregon
www.LessonsFromTheEdge.com
"Life's a daring adventure or nothing"
Helen Keller
"I refuse to tip toe through life just to arrive safely at death."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rebuilding Fuel Pump |
| How often do you folks like to rebuild/replace your
| fuel pump?
|
| Arty Trost
Arty:
I have an old Kubota tractor with a Mikuni impulse fuel pump just like
the one you fly with. It is about 30 years old and has about 3000
hours on it. It is still pumping, every time I crank the little
Kubota.
Of course, the Kubota lives in a different world than the Mikuni on
your Rotax. It also pumps diesel and not gasoline. If the Kubota
quits, no sweat.
I can not remember how often I changed out or overhauled Mikuni fuel
pumps back in the day when I was flying two strokes. Every couple
years or so. They are extremely reliable. Three parts: Top half,
diaphram, and bottom half. About the only thing to wear out is the
diaphram which also acts as the gasket.
How much does the overhaul kit cost?
Make sure it is genuine Mikuni. LEAF was selling a kit many years ago
that was not Mikuni. I had a forced landing the first flight after I
overhauled my fuel pump at the Flight Farm, Monterey, NY, 1989. Put
the old diaphram back in, flew to OSH, and home to Alabama. BTW:
LEAF grudeonly refunded my money for my fuel pump kit.
Don't think I answered your question.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rebuilding Fuel Pump |
At 01:29 PM 3/15/2007, John Hauck wrote:
>
>Make sure it is genuine Mikuni. LEAF was selling a kit many years ago
>that was not Mikuni. I had a forced landing the first flight after I
>overhauled my fuel pump...
The pumps are so cheap doesn't it just make more sense to replace the
entire pump than to rebuild it?
OTOH... the previous owner of my US made a forced landing (fortunately on
the airport, but he still broke a gear leg) when the brand new fuel pump
he'd just installed failed. Apparently it had been sitting on the shelf
for some time, and the diaphragm had dried out.
He actually did pretty good considering it was about his third solo flight
in any kind of airplane (he's got a lot of PPC and gyro time, and prefers
the gyro, which is why he sold the US to me).
-Dana
--
--
I started out with nothing. I still have most of it left.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel Filter / Water Seperator |
Hi gang,
Considering installing a Racor Fuel Filter/Water Separator in place of
regular fuel filter.
Normal Mister Funnel and preflight fuel samplesshould take care of fuel
source and condensation problems, but with ethanol fuels in our future would
this be enough?
Water and alcohol mix quite readily. Would a water filter tend to separate
the alcohol along with the water from the rest of the fuel?Could a
water/alcohol emulsified mixture get by normal fuel checks?
Not worth worrying about?
Would like to hear general comments and as well as from those who may be
using this type of filter.
John Ratcliffe
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
If we get a small percent of alcohol in our gas.... then we will have no
concern for water in the gas..... unless we get more water than alcohol
in our systems.... a water alcohol mix of 50 - 50 will mix and burn
without problems in our fuel.... the water wont separate out until the
water is greater than 50 % compared to the alcohol in the fuel. to check
for alcohol in the gas is quite easy... fill a test tube 1/2 full with
water, then draw a line,,, then fill it the rest of the way with gas,
shake it up and let it settle. The difference between the line and the
water / gas line is the amount of alcohol. Now to test for the purity
of the alcohol will take a bit more time but is done in near the same
way.... fill the test tube to the first line with gas.... slowly put in
drops of water and shake between drops. When you first start noticing water
in the bottom of the test tube, you will know how much water the alcohol in
the gas will absorb before it starts to settle out.
For example... if you have a test tube marked from 0 to 150 CC... fill it
to 100 with gas... if it is 5 percent alcohol in the gas... you should
be able to fill it to the 105 before the water starts to settle in the
bottom.... if you only get it to 102.... then the alcohol in the gas
already had water mixed into it,, or it was only 2 percent alcohol in the
gas to start with.
Any way until you get enough water into the gas to cause it to settle out,,,
it will burn ok.
Boyd young
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | SlingShot on E-Bay |
I just happened across a Kolb Sling Shot with out engine on E-Bay. The
current bid is $5,000.00 with 7 hours left on the auction. I might be
one heck of a deal. It is all red. Could this be one of New Kolb's old
demonstrator?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kolb-Slingshot-Aircraft-minus-powerplant_W
0QQitemZ110101269542QQcategoryZ63679QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: radio noise
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jim Baker" <jlbaker(at)msbit.net>
> To: "Larry Cottrell"
> Sent: Friday, March 09, 2007 7:05 PM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: radio noise
, are the power supply wires to the stobe(s) sheilded
>> and grounded at one end only? Your "pop" description seems to
>> fit a capacitor discharge scenario, something a strobe is likely to
>> do.
I read the manual from Kesterston strobes and the one thing that they said
was to connect the power wire to the strobes to the first terminal on the
power bar. I did so and the "Pop" stopped. I am still not able to hook the
GPS to the battery for the noise.
Larry, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: SlingShot on E-Bay |
Just described it to Bryan M. You are right John, sounds like Bruce's if
they took the 912S off and replaced it with a 582.
steve
************************************** AOL now offers free email to everyone.
Find out more about what's free from AOL at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron <captainron1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SlingShot on E-Bay |
I don't know if I am reading the bidding history right but bidder number 8 looks
like he is either bidding against himself, or is the owner of the aircraft and
is jacking up the Kolb price.
Ron (Arizona)
===============
---- Richard & Martha Neilsen wrote:
============
I just happened across a Kolb Sling Shot with out engine on E-Bay. The current bid is $5,000.00 with 7 hours left on the auction. I might be one heck of a deal. It is all red. Could this be one of New Kolb's old demonstrator? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kolb-Slingshot-Aircraft-minus-powerplant_W0QQitemZ110101269542QQcategoryZ63679QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kolbdriver" <kolbdriver(at)mlsharp.com> |
| Subject: | SlingShot on E-Bay |
What it looks like is that bidder 8 has a max bid and no one has hit it yet.
He will show up as the high bidder with his bid going up until his max is
met. Then the other bidder will show up.
Mike
_____
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 7:47 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: SlingShot on E-Bay
I don't know if I am reading the bidding history right but bidder number 8
looks like he is either bidding against himself, or is the owner of the
aircraft and is jacking up the Kolb price.
Ron (Arizona)
================
---- Richard & Martha Neilsen wrote:
============
I just happened across a Kolb Sling Shot with out engine on E-Bay. The
current bid is $5,000.00 with 7 hours left on the auction. I might be one
heck of a deal. It is all red. Could this be one of New Kolb's old
demonstrator?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kolb-Slingshot-Aircraft-minus-powerplant_W0QQ
itemZ110101269542QQcategoryZ63679QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Kolb model differences |
Kolb, Kolbra, Twinstar, Slingshot, etc... I know what the Ultrastar is
because I own one, and the current models are described on TNK's website,
but I'm in the dark about many of the older models... is there any website
that describes (or anybody willing to summarize) the various models and the
differences?
-Dana
--
--
But do you trust the _government_ with semi-automatic assault rifles?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRatcli256(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RE: Fuel Filter / Water Seperator |
Boyd,
Was thinking, by using the water separator to filter the water/alcohol
mixture, maybe it would remove the alcohol as well.
Thanks for the info on testing the fuel. Sounds easy to do in the field when
your not sure of the source.
John Ratcliffe
************************************** AOL now offers free email to everyone.
Find out more about what's free from AOL at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II HKS Conversion |
| From: | "Dave Bigelow" <up_country(at)hotmail.com> |
Flew the HKS Firestar II today again. Prior to the flight, I raised the needle
jet one notch on both carbs in hopes of eliminating the EGT spike in the mid-range
RPM. I also put a strip of duct tape down the center of the oil cooler
to see if I could get the oil temperature up. I saw 130 degrees on the first
flight, and the manual indicates optimum range of 170-212 degrees F.
The flight went very well. I like this engine! The EGT was more consistent across
the entire operational RPM range (no big mid-range spike), running about
1290 degrees at 4,900 RPM. This is at 6,000 feet density altitude. The strip
of duct tape across the radiator raised the oil temperature to around 140 degrees
- still not high enough. The oil temperature pickup is at the bottom of
the tank, so I'm sure the oil coming out of the engine before going through the
cooler is higher.
For you Rotax 912 drivers - where is the oil temperature probe located on your
installations? Also, what are your EGT's at maximum power, and at 1,000 RPM less
than maximuM? The HKS has the same carbs as the 912.
After the flight, I refilled the two five gallon gas tanks (standard Firestar tanks).
It took about 4.2 gallons to refill. That is with 2.5 hours running time,
with 2.2 hours in the air. Most of the two flights were in the pattern,
up and down with a total of 16 landings. I believe ten gallons of fuel will probably
equate to 4 hours of flight time with the HKS. Best I could do with the
Rotax 503 was 3 hours. That's averaging 50 mph cruise.
More later, as I get more time on the engine.
--------
Dave Bigelow
Kamuela, Hawaii
FS2, HKS 700E
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=100915#100915
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II HKS Conversion |
| For you Rotax 912 drivers - where is the oil temperature probe
located on your installations? Also, what are your EGT's at maximum
power, and at 1,000 RPM less than maximuM? The HKS has the same carbs
as the 912.
| --------
| Dave Bigelow
Dave:
The 912 oil temp sender is on the back side of the oil pump after it
goes through the oil cooler. That is why the minimum oil temp is
190F. It is much hotter when it comes out the sump and back into the
remote tank.
I have no idea about EGT. I have never had an EGT on any of my 912
engines.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Key" <dhkey(at)msn.com> |
http://www.glumbert.com/media/swiss
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Filter / Water Seperator |
Haven't used it on the plane, but I've used a Racor fuel/water separator on
my outboard boat for several years, and it does a dandy
job. Lar.
On 3/15/07, boyd wrote:
>
>
> Hi gang,
>
> Considering installing a Racor Fuel Filter/Water Separator in place of
> regular fuel filter.
>
> Normal Mister Funnel and preflight fuel samplesshould take care of fuel
> source and condensation problems, but with ethanol fuels in our future
> would
> this be enough?
>
> Water and alcohol mix quite readily. Would a water filter tend to separate
> the alcohol along with the water from the rest of the fuel?Could a
> water/alcohol emulsified mixture get by normal fuel checks?
>
> Not worth worrying about?
>
> Would like to hear general comments and as well as from those who may be
> using this type of filter.
>
> John Ratcliffe
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SlingShot on E-Bay |
At 12:29 AM 3/16/2007, Richard Pike wrote:
>
>I have had good luck by running my laptop open at the same time as my old
>desktop. Refresh on one while the other one is loaded and ready with the
>bid ready to enter. Every once in a while I bid a second too late...
There are websites that do the automatic bidding (sniping) for you,
presumably for a fee. I lost out on a great deal on a paraglider that way,
with the winning bid only $10 over my max bid.
-Dana
--
--
Arrest rate for Washington DC police officers: 19 per 1000
Arrest rate for New York City police officers: 3 per 1000
Arrest rate for Florida concealed handgun permit holders: 0.9 per 1000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SlingShot on E-Bay |
The truth is this strategy is usually a futile attempt to
manipulate a competitor's max bid, or for people who do not actually
know their own heart and what their own max price they are willing to
bid is themselves.
Whether the item sells for $.01 or $100.00 over your actual max price
you are willing to pay, you should never feel you "lost out on a
great deal".
On Mar 16, 2007, at 7:10 AM, Dana Hague wrote:
>
> At 12:29 AM 3/16/2007, Richard Pike wrote:
>>
>>
>> I have had good luck by running my laptop open at the same time as
>> my old desktop. Refresh on one while the other one is loaded and
>> ready with the bid ready to enter. Every once in a while I bid a
>> second too late...
>
> There are websites that do the automatic bidding (sniping) for you,
> presumably for a fee. I lost out on a great deal on a paraglider
> that way, with the winning bid only $10 over my max bid.
>
> -Dana
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Welch" <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | HKS Engine Report |
Hey Guys!
Now, I've been pretty busy the last few days..so in case someone
already mentioned this don't shoot me. I just haven't had the time to read
ALL the latest Kolb-list emails. I hope to catch up by this weekend.
However, I have noticed a couple of emails with the subject as " HKS".
I thought I'd mention
"Kitplanes magazine did a thorough engine report on the HKS 700E in the
latest edition.
In case anyone wants to read it, I can scan the report and email it to
you. Let me know. email is: mdanwelch(at)hotmail.com
Again, i apologize if someone has already stated this....I just didn't
see it. Mike in SW Utah
_________________________________________________________________
Its tax season, make sure to follow these few simple tips
http://articles.moneycentral.msn.com/Taxes/PreparationTips/PreparationTips.aspx?icid=HMMartagline
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II HKS Conversion |
| From: | Herb Gayheart <herbgh(at)juno.com> |
Dave
Wondering if you checked the oil thremostat housing to see if it has
a thermostat in place? Herb
writes:
>
>
> Flew the HKS Firestar II today again. Prior to the flight, I raised
> the needle jet one notch on both carbs in hopes of eliminating the
> EGT spike in the mid-range RPM. I also put a strip of duct tape
> down the center of the oil cooler to see if I could get the oil
> temperature up. I saw 130 degrees on the first flight, and the
> manual indicates optimum range of 170-212 degrees F.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb model differences |
Dana
No one else seems to be responding so I will tell you what I know. You will
also need to check the New Kolb web site at http://207.234.166.41/
The MKIIIc is the standard big Kolb with side by side seating and I think it
is a upgraded version of the discontinued MKII.
The MKIII Xtra is a Barnaby Wilifan (spelling?) improvement of the MKIIIc
for more speed and comfort/room.
The Kolbra is the same as a MKIII but has tandem seating. It is a bit faster
and doesn't have flaps unless you go with electric flaps like Paul P. has
done. It was originally built as a training aircraft.
The Slingshot is a short wing MKIII with tandem seating. It is much faster
and sporty. It was designed as a Kolb for GA pilots. I think the cockpit is
a much tighter fit than the Kolbra especially in the back.
All the above share the same wing structure but the Slingshot wings are
shorter.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Hague" <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 15, 2007 9:57 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb model differences
>
> Kolb, Kolbra, Twinstar, Slingshot, etc... I know what the Ultrastar is
> because I own one, and the current models are described on TNK's website,
> but I'm in the dark about many of the older models... is there any website
> that describes (or anybody willing to summarize) the various models and
> the differences?
>
> -Dana
> --
> --
> But do you trust the _government_ with semi-automatic assault rifles?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb model differences |
hey, don't ferget the little Firefly
steve
************************************** AOL now offers free email to everyone.
Find out more about what's free from AOL at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb model differences |
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot1(at)tx.rr.com> |
Here is an old webpage I had up for a long time about the Kolb line of products.
I did this back when I was researching which model I would build.
--------
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolbra, 912ULS
http://home.tx.rr.com/kolbrapilot
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=101084#101084
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/kolb_history_177.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb model differences |
Thanks to all who responded (esp. John W. for the pdf!). I have a much
better understanding of the model differences now. Only problem now is I
want one of each...
-Dana
--
--
No trees were harmed in the transmission of this message. However, a rather
large number of electrons were temporarily inconvenienced.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank & margie" <frank-margie(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rebuilding Fuel Pump |
REF:
> Arty
I rebuilt mine ever 100 hrs. Had one last year fail at 110 hrs. Glad I
had
a electric back-up.
Back in the snow mobile days some of them would last for ever?
Wayne
-------------------------------------------------------
I'd like to see a lot of input on this question, an impromptu poll of
experiences/observations could provide some good guidelines, if enuf
people added to it.
I rebuild at 2 years or 100 hrs max. And John Hauck is right on about
using genuine Mikuni parts. The rebuild kits are cheap, and easy to
install.
I've seen a lot of pulse pump failures. I don't know why they seem to
fail a lot more often on ultralights, but that's my impression too. I
don't completely trust them, even when rebuilt often, which is why I
just added a Facet pump, in series, per Msr's Hauck/Pike and others on
this list. (The grass strip I fly off of is not ultralight friendly,
lots of big trees all around, lots of pucker factor until one gets a
little altitude.) I mount my pump with tie-wraps and rubber hose
standoffs, on the airframe (vs on the engine), to try and reduce the
vibration level at the pump. Also mount with the pulse line input on
the bottom, tilted down maybe 30 degrees, and I leave a "belly" in the
pulse line below the pump. Hopefully the tilt and belly will let any
residual fuel/oil run away from the diaphragm----I'm not convinced the
little weep hole in the pump/pump fitting is enuf to do the job on a 2
cycle. Don't know how much my mounting methods help, but I personally
have never had a pump failure, and I don't much care to if I can help
it. (A friend went down on take off from SunN'Fun a few years back,
and was real lucky to get it down in the paved parking area off the end
of the strip, without getting hurt.)
I believe a large % of powerplant failures in GA are fuel system
related, and I'd be willing to bet it's an even higher % in the
ultralight world.
Frank Clyma
Orange Park, FL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly tube |
| How thick is the boom tube on a Firefly?
|
| Thanks,
|
| Jimmy Hankinson
Jimmy:
I don't know about the FF specifically, but most 5 and 6 inch tail
booms are .058" wall thickness, I think.
john h
mkIII
PS: Winter returned to hauck's holler over night. Glad I am in the
"mole hole" (basement) working on the mkIII.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firefly tube |
The Fireflys use 6061-T6 Aluminum. The tube used to be 0.049" which is a
non standard size. They are now 0.052" wall thickness, which is a
standard size made by Alcoa.
Jim Dunn
N. Idaho
>
> | How thick is the boom tube on a Firefly?
> |
> | Thanks,
> |
> | Jimmy Hankinson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Harry Griffin-Beale" <acepilot(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HKS Engine Report |
Hi Guys,
Have been a member of this list for a couple of years. Really am
thankful for all the info available and I guess it is time to ask for
some feedback on this subject.
I am flying a Twinstar MKII with a Rotax 532. I have put 340 hrs of
great flying on this engine with no problems. I am now looking at a 300
TBO as that is what is recommended. I fly on the West Coast of Vancouver
British Columbia, Canada. Most of my flying is in the mountains or over
water. I will fly 27 miles across the strait of Georgia to Vancouver
Island. or over 6000ft passes to get somewhere.
Always in the back of my mind is when is this little 2 stroke going to
quite. Most of my fellow pilots here have gone over to the 4 stroke
Rotax and can't say enough about it. I can't go up
as I am already over the recomended power for this aircraft. I yearn for
the peace of mind that a 4 stroke delivers so I have been looking for
something better for a couple of years now.
The HKS700E seems to be the answer, my only reservation regarding this
engine is the air cooled system. Any feedback would be appreciated
Regards
Harry
Twinstar MKII
Vancouver, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb model differences Converting a FireStar to an |
Ultra Light Vehicle?
............................
John,
Thank you for the info. It looks like a FireStar could be easily be moved
into the ultra light vehicle 103.7 category by getting rid of 21 pounds.
This could be done by smaller wheels, less paint and a lighter engine.
Using AC 103-7 Appendix 1, 2, 3 & 4, a 33 hp Mini III Simonini engine would
push it 63 mph. Changing to this engine would put the FireStar under the
weight limit.
Calculations for a gross weight of 550 pounds gives a stall speed of 27.5
mph. If one assumes a converted (re-engined) FireStar weighs 248 pounds
dry, with five gallons of fuel and flown by a standard FAA 170 pound pilot,
the wing loading would be 3.2 pounds per square foot. This would give a
stall speed of 25 mph with out flaperons.
One major advantage to converting is the extra load carrying capacity of
fifty pounds over a FireFly.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II HKS Conversion |
| From: | "Dave Bigelow" <up_country(at)hotmail.com> |
Herb,
There is no housing for an oil thermostat on the HKS that I know of - an oil thermostat
can be plumbed externally. Tuning the airflow through the radiator to
maintain an acceptable range of temperature is simple, and seems to work well
for most people.
--------
Dave Bigelow
Kamuela, Hawaii
FS2, HKS 700E
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=101318#101318
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/oilthermostat_1_283.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HKS Engine Report |
| From: | "Dave Bigelow" <up_country(at)hotmail.com> |
> "Kitplanes magazine" did a thorough engine report on the HKS 700E in the
> latest edition.
Mike, would you scan and post the HKS report? I couldn't get your email address
to work.
Harry, look here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=13013. So far, I haven't had any cooling issues with my HKS.
--------
Dave Bigelow
Kamuela, Hawaii
FS2, HKS 700E
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=101321#101321
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II HKS Conversion |
| From: | Herb Gayheart <herbgh(at)juno.com> |
February 26, 2007 - March 17, 2007
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-go