Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-gr
April 13, 2007 - April 27, 2007
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
| From: | "Paul Petty" <paulpetty(at)myway.com> |
Dennis,
My only thought is why chance it with such an expensive engine? I have been selling
oil filters for 28 years and only had 2 times that customers have came back
on me "claiming" that the filter media came lose stopped up oil pump and burned
up the engine. Both were 350 chevys and both were Fram. Only other auto engine
that likes it's own brand of filter is Toyota. Mainly the older 22re engines.
If you run anything but a Toyota filter you can be assured of a timing cover
and chain replacement before 70K miles. Strange ey? My thoughts are with
Erics. Rotax designed the filter to do what They wanted it to do. Fram Im sure
dont even know what a Rotax 912 is! Plus if you were to have a problem and you
felt it was a Rotax issue and you go to say a Rotax repair station with said
problem, and they see that orange Fram filter, what do you think they are going
to say right off the bat!
Just my point of view
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
Final assembly!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106699#106699
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Dennis,
I did a big study on oil filters pertaining to the 912 and have been to Rotax's
classes. It would be hard for anyone who has not done a lot of research, torn
filters apart and talked to the filter company engineers to comment on oil filters
and know all the ins/outs and whys.
It then just becomes speculation.
There are differences and the Rotax filter is not number one.
I don't want to type a long dissertation.
Please call me today at my work in Tucson, Az at 520-791-5286 (I'm there 24 hrs
so you can call up until 2100 hrs tonight) or at home tomorrow at 520-574-1080
and I will be happy to tell you more than you ever wanted to know about filters
for the 912 engine.
Roger Lee
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106706#106706
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
Paul, All oil filter manufacturers have charts that show equivalent filters
from other manufacturers and legal staffs that would stop them if they're
filters did not meet the standards for that type. Ratings for bypass
pressure, burst strength, and filtering media capability can be found and
assessed for the requirements needed. While most car manufacturers have
their own labels for filters, I don't know of a single one that makes their
own.
As for 22RE Toyota engines, I'm on my third in the last twenty years. My son
has had two. Neither of us has ever bought a filter from Toyota. Neither of
us has ever had a timing cover leak, a timing chain failure, or any
indication of inordinate wear timing chain wear. A small statistical sample,
to be sure, but the only one I know personally. :-)
I use K & N oil filters on my current surface vehicles ( 2003 Hyundai Sante
Fe, 2006 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner, and 1977 H-D Vibraglide) In the cars, I
run Mobil 1 Extended Service full synthetic oil to the limit (15K miles).
The bike doesn't go near that long between oil changes, but I like the K & N
filters for it because I can safety wire them easily. When the HKS gets it's
first oil change, it'll get a K & N HP 1003.
MHO, you're results may be different.
Rick
On 4/13/07, Paul Petty wrote:
>
>
> Dennis,
>
> My only thought is why chance it with such an expensive engine? I have
> been selling oil filters for 28 years and only had 2 times that customers
> have came back on me "claiming" that the filter media came lose stopped up
> oil pump and burned up the engine. Both were 350 chevys and both were Fram.
> Only other auto engine that likes it's own brand of filter is Toyota. Mainly
> the older 22re engines. If you run anything but a Toyota filter you can be
> assured of a timing cover and chain replacement before 70K miles. Strange
> ey? My thoughts are with Erics. Rotax designed the filter to do what They
> wanted it to do. Fram Im sure dont even know what a Rotax 912 is! Plus if
> you were to have a problem and you felt it was a Rotax issue and you go to
> say a Rotax repair station with said problem, and they see that orange Fram
> filter, what do you think they are going to say right off the bat!
>
> Just my point of view
>
> --------
> Paul Petty
> Kolbra #12
> Ms Dixie
> Final assembly!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106699#106699
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland. wrote:
>
>
> Right there, in the middle of the page, in a box all by
> itself, is a big warning, telling Rotax 912 owners that they should
> NEVER use anything other than the prescribed Rotax oil filter, or you
> might ruin your engine. Reason was related to the bypass pressure in
> the filter.
>
>
Dennis
Rotax is trying to sell thier branded filters, which they do not manufacture for
themselves. Rotax uses fear and lack of knowlege as a way to sell their filters.
The bypass pressure is around 12 PSI on the rotax filter, and 13 on the
replacement filters you might use. That is a 1 PSI difference, get real, the
engine will never care if the filter goes into bypass at 12 or 13 PSI. Its
either bypassing or its not. If you had read Roger Lee's excellent article
on this, you would have known this. I went to the trouble to check Rogers facts
from indepdendent sources, and found Rogers conclusions to be right on the
money.
Paul hit on something with Fram filters, I have read about fram filter media comming
apart from several different places, and now Paul says the same thing.
The only filter I would absalutely not use is a Fram.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106746#106746
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
| The Fram TG-3614 filter
| Dennis Kirby
Dennis:
I have used three Rotax oil filters, the ones that came on the three
912 engines I have installed.
I have used Fram TG3614 filters for 2,400+ hours on a 912UL and a
912ULS. I have no oil related problems. I have not problems period.
You have to make your own decision on what you want to run. Eric
Tucker has to share the Rotax guidelines with is their oil filter.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
| Btw whats the latest recomended oil for the 912 (Rotax only) is it
still the Honda semi syn?
| Paul Petty
Hi Paul:
My less than an hour old 912ULS is full of its first taste of
Valvoline Durablend 20W50. John W and I both use this oil in our
912ULS engines. Takes care of the lead problem associated with 100LL.
If I was going to run a steady diet of mogas I would run Shell Rotella
100% synthetic.
Rotax likes motor cycle oil, blend for 100LL and full synthetic for
mogas.
john h
mkIII
PS: If I have an oil filter induced engine failure, I'll put a Rotax
filter on it before I take it to the shop. ;-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Hauck mkIII Lives |
Hi Gang:
James Tripp came up and helped me get the Hauck gear legs on the
mkIII, plus a miriad of other things that it takes to get a new engine
installation ready for the first start up. Oil system has to be
primed, cooling system filled, fuel system was flushed from the tank
to the carbs.
Had to to a primary prop pitch set, mount the prop, and fire it up.
What a beautiful sight and sound to hear a 912ULS come to life for the
first time. Didn't turn more than a cylinder before it came to life.
Checked the mags, and no mag check. Got the engine shut down with the
enrichers. Trouble shot and found the problem. Cranked it for the
second time, mag check, good, shut down good.
Loaded her up and hauled to the airstrip. Wings and lift struts
installed, and Miss P'fer is home in her hanger.
Tomorrow is supposed to be a cruddy weather day down here. Will use
it to get the center section installed and all the other little things
that need to be taken care of to get this bird ready for her first
flight since 22 Aug 2006.
Will probably be flying Sunday. That will give me enough time to get
everything dialed in and happy with the engine and airplane.
Doctor apts Monday. Will pack up and get out of here for Lakeland
Tuesday morning. Should be there after the airshow at about 1730.
It is a good feeling to have the old gal back in the hanger after such
a long time of being powerless.
Take care,
john h
mkIII
PS: Thanks James for being such a big help to me today.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Guys,
Motorcycle oil is the number one recommended because it has shear additives. Oil
will lose its viscosity when it is put under high mechanical stress and work
like in a gearbox working through gears. This is why motorcycles have a shear
additive because like the 912 motorcycles use the oil in the engine and the gearbox.
Antifoaming agent are also added because of the higher mechanical action.
Automotive oil does not have shear additives. Synthetic oil will not suspend
lead and that's why we use semi-synthetic when we use 100LL more than 30% of
the time.
Mike,
The after market filters by-pass is 12 psi - 15 psi and the Rotax is
13 psi - 15.9 psi (.9 bar-1.1 bar). Fram a few years ago did have a problem or
two on the standard Fram filter and not the Tough Guard series. One psi on a coil
spring in our application will not have any appreciable effect.
The Rotax filter like the Fram TG3614 is an average filter and does the job, especially
as often as we change oil. But the better filter is absolutely a PurOne
filter PL10241 and then a Mobile One filter.
The PurOne has a higher effiency rating, more square inches of filter medium and
3 types of filter medium that increase its effiency.
Rotax right now recommends Mobile One Racing 4T Synthetic oil.
Don't overlook Amsoil Motorcycle full Synth oil 10-40 or 20-50. It is actually
rated somewhat better than Mobile One in antifoaming and shear wear.
Champion oil filters for Rotax is a company in Europe and not the Champion in the
states. We had filters to fit the Rotax and don't believe they have the selection
in Europe as we do or the quality.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106800#106800
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hauck mkIII Lives |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Thats awesome, I bet you are very anxious to get back in the air after eight months
of not flying... I am looking foward to hearing your report on the tapered
warp drive prop, especially being that I have one exactly like yours still
in the box waiting to be installed.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106801#106801
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hauck mkIII Lives |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi John,
I hope the winds we have had here for the last three days don't hit there. They
are up to 35-40 mph. They are headed your way.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106803#106803
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hauck mkIII Lives |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Rotax recommeded when using the Warp Drive to use nothing over 68" and use the
tapered tips to cut down on the load the prop puts on the gears when it comes
to a stop. The Warp Drive I guess seems to be a heavier prop. They recommended
to never use the Warp Drive with the metal leading edge protection. Too much
weight/energy at the tips for gearbox longevity.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106805#106805
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ms Dixie update |
| From: | "cspoke" <cspoke(at)gulftel.com> |
Wow Mike. Your plane is gorgeous. Thanks for the picture. I sure hope that mine
turns out looking close to as nice as yours.
--------
Craig Spoke
Mark 111 Xtra (in the works)
Lillian, AL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106814#106814
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hauck mkIII Lives |
| Rotax recommeded when using the Warp Drive to use nothing over 68"
and use the tapered tips to cut down on the load the prop puts on the
gears when it comes to a stop. The Warp Drive I guess seems to be a
heavier prop. They recommended to never use the Warp Drive with the
metal leading edge protection. Too much weight/energy at the tips for
gearbox longevity.
|
| --------
| Roger Lee
Roger L:
How about sending me a reference on the above info about Rotax and
Warp Drive Props.
I have been flying Warp Drive 70 and 72 inch props since 1993, on my
582, 912UL, and 912ULS, about 2,600 hours. I have a new Warp Drive
70" taper tip with nickle steel leading edge on the new 912ULS. BTW,
all my Warps had nickle steel leading edges. The older props were 11"
and the newer ones are 15".
We pulled the gear box on my last 912ULS a couple hours before I
removed it from my airplane and delivered it to the buyer. With
1,233.0 hours, there was no wear of any kind. Of course that was all
Warp Drive, Valvoline Durablend Semi Synthetic, and TG3614 oil
filters. If Shell Rotella made a semi-synthetic blend oil, that is
what I would run in my 912ULS. If it is good enough to lube the
accessory gear drive in a big over the road diesel, it is good enough
to get the job done in my little Rotax.
I don't think I read it during this last run on oil filters. The
primary reason Rotax recommends their oil filter is during cold
weather start up. This is when the bypass valve has the best chance
of opening, dumping all the dirty contents back into the oil system.
Rotax seems to be satisfied with their oil filter, especially physical
size, filter capacity. One can nearly double filter area by changing
up from a TG3614 to a TG3600. The end of the can is near the number 2
exhaust outlet, but it will work if you think you need more
filtration.
I am satisfied with my setup. I am not recommended anyone else on the
List use the same systems I do. It is their choice.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hauck mkIII Lives |
tapered warp drive prop, especially being that I have one exactly
like yours still in the box waiting to be installed.
|
| Mike
Hi Mike,
Better stick that Warp Drive on and go fly.
Been flying Warps since 1993. Totally satisfied with performance,
reliability, survivability. Was amazed at the amount of abuse the
prop will take and keep on flying.
Zero maintenance, never had to balance one, and once I get it dialed
in, never have to go back and reset the pitch.
My experience is with 70 and 72 inch primarily. Performance is pretty
close, with the 72 inch climbing a little better than the 70 inch.
Cruise speed is about the same. Noise level is much less with the 70
inch.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hauck mkIII Lives |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
John,
I will most definately put on my Warp Drive the first chance I have. There are
so many Warp Drive props out there and they have a great record. With the Warp
I will also have a fair chance of the prop not comming apart when something
comes off my engine and runs through it [Shocked]
My only question is if I should have gotten the 72 inch or not. I would like the
extra performance. Do you think the extra noise in your case could be from
the tips being so close to the boom ? I have enough clearance, that I could
run either size of prop 70 or 72 and not have to worry about the tips being
to close to the boom and making a bunch of noise.
Rotax recommendations or not, a 68 inch or less would be a real dissapointment
on a 912-S, I dont think the performane would be good at all once the diameter
of the prop started getting that small on a Kolb.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106899#106899
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ms Dixie update |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
cspoke wrote:
> Wow Mike. Your plane is gorgeous. Thanks for the picture. I sure hope that mine
turns out looking close to as nice as yours.
Thanks,
Maybe I should just put it in a Museum somewhere ( the Smithsonian should give
me a tax Deduction :) )... I am afraid that I might ding it if I fly it !
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106903#106903
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Where do you get the Mobil 1 4t Racing Synthetic oil ??? I have never seen it
at the auto parts store here :(
Also John, where do you get the Shell Rotella Oil ?
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106904#106904
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Warp Drive prop inertia concerns |
Mike, et al, Since you haven't installed your new Warp Drive prop yet, why
not take an hour and test it's inertia per Rotax service information
bulletin SI 11 UL 91E? It's really easy to do, all it takes is a small piece
of plywood, some safety wire and a stop watch. Better to know you're within
limits, than guess, eh?
You can download SI 11 UL 91E from the Rotax owners web site.
Rick
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
Ok, lets go back a few years... and there are probably some left in
operation still today. Aircraft engines never had oil filters, at all.
They use to run the oil through a fine mesh screen. The oil change period
was at 25 hours, when they went to a filter the time doubled to 50 hours.
So lets look at the process of filtering oil in the rotax 912. as long as
the filter medium will pass all the oil being pumped there is a 100%
filtering. If the medium gets dirty or plugged, ( you have a big problem
any way).. or the pump is pushing the oil through till the pressure gradient
across the filter reaches 12 to 13 lbs. Then the bypass opens, the oil
that goes through the bypass will be returned to the engine mixed with the
filtered oil.
: These following numbers are pulled out of the air, and are for example
only :
Lets say for example that: ( I'm thinking worst case here)
50 % of the oil is being bypassed,
You have 4 quarts on board
The oil pump delivers 2 quarts a min
Every 2 min the engine will go through all the available oil on board.
Every 4 min 4 quarts of oil will go through the filter medium.
Every 6 min 98 to 99% of every drop will go through the filter.
On average all the oil will go through the filter element 15 times an hour.
If the engine is creating enough crud that every 6 min between filtering,
near every drop, is a problem, then the engine is going to fail within the
next hour anyway. Remember the old aircraft engines would go 25 hours with
no filtering. Even if an element rips open,,, still a small % will go
through the filter element... and unless there is such a catastrophic
breakdown of the element as to plug everything up... the engine would still
get oil. The oil pressure gauge should warn you of a catastrophic type of
failure.
>From the filters that I have cut open,,, including lots of fram filters. I
have had to pry and pull and cut and hack and dispel copious amounts of
energy to get the elements apart. In an effort to see what the element had
filtered out of the oil. I've not seen a bad one yet.
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
| Also John, where do you get the Shell Rotella Oil ?
|
| Mike
Mike B/Gang:
Shell Rotella Full Syn is avail at Wal*Mart. Best buy for full syn
oil.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Warp Drive prop inertia concerns |
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot1(at)tx.rr.com> |
It took over 30 minutes to find the document you were referring to on the Rotax
Owners web site.
It can't be very relevent any more since the real Rotax site doesn't carry it:
http://www.rotax-aircraft-engines.com/a_searchdoc.aspx
To make it easier for those that are interested, I have uploaded the .pdf file
with this post.
It is listed as SI-11-1991 and it's old number is SI 11 UL 91 E.
I have zero concerns about running my 68 inch 3 blade Warp Drive tapered tip prop
with nickel leading edges on my Rotax 912ULS. It seems to make the Kolbra perform
fairly well!
--------
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolbra, 912ULS
http://home.tx.rr.com/kolbrapilot
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106922#106922
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/11ul91_818.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron <captainron1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
that's am interesting question. I can only relate to it by thinking as to what
Rotax was trying to do. It seems to me that Rotax decided that since in 912 motor
goes in airplanes it should have an aviation oil filter. Based on what you
wrote I think they copied the CH48109 type filters that go on Lycomings. These
filters have a bypass valve that will allow the oil to flow through under some
over pressure situations. Such as the oil is too congealed because of cold
to flow through the media or if there is so much gunk in your motor to plug it
up. Would any of those be of concern to me for example. I don't think so, if
I use synthetic oil which I would, it would flow in any condition that I care
to fly. If there is too much gunk (metal) in the engine to plug up my filter to
activate the bypass valve I think the engine would break before the valve would
open. There is another possibility with the Rotax that under certain RPM combinations
the oil pump may shove through more oil than the filter media can
handle and then its essential that the bypass valve opens or you can burst the
filter or some other such nasty stuff . If I were not to use the Rotax filter
I would buy an oversize filter for a bigger motor that fits and use it. Just
to be on the safe side.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron <captainron1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
Well this is funny Mike!
the only filter I ever use is Fram. :-)
Certainly for least 20 years. I think I started right after Consumer reports Magazine
did an oil filter test and Fram filter after their exhaustive testing came
on top. Even if they are not now and I don't know that they are not the top
filtering can, I figure that if it was good enough 15 20 years ago its still
good enough today. I am sure that they have improved to stay competitive. Never
a problem with the Fram filter.
Ron (Arizona)
========================
---- JetPilot wrote:
============
Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland. wrote:
>
>
>Right there, in the middle of the page, in a box all by
>itself, is a big warning, telling Rotax 912 owners that they should
>NEVER use anything other than the prescribed Rotax oil filter, or you
>might ruin your engine. Reason was related to the bypass pressure in
>the filter.
>
>
Dennis
Rotax is trying to sell thier branded filters, which they do not manufacture for
themselves. Rotax uses fear and lack of knowlege as a way to sell their filters.
The bypass pressure is around 12 PSI on the rotax filter, and 13 on the replacement
filters you might use. That is a 1 PSI difference, get real, the engine
will never care if the filter goes into bypass at 12 or 13 PSI. Its either
bypassing or its not. If you had read Roger Lee's excellent article on this,
you would have known this. I went to the trouble to check Rogers facts from indepdendent
sources, and found Rogers conclusions to be right on the money.
Paul hit on something with Fram filters, I have read about fram filter media comming
apart from several different places, and now Paul says the same thing. The
only filter I would absalutely not use is a Fram.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have
!!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106746#106746
--
kugelair.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Warp Drive prop inertia concerns |
| I have zero concerns about running my 68 inch 3 blade Warp Drive
tapered tip prop with nickel leading edges on my Rotax 912ULS. It
seems to make the Kolbra perform fairly well!
|
| --------
| John Williamson
Hi John W/Gang:
I'm not going to lose any sleep over flying Warp Drive Props with
nickle edges either. After 13 years and 2,500+ hours split between
two engines, without showing any wear in either engine to either gear
box, I have convinced myself that my 912ULS will preform as usual.
Same goes for my oil and oil filters.
I don't advise anyone to use anything I do. Based on the type of
flying, the places I have flown, and the places I plan to fly, I'm not
going to use a product that I have any doubts about, any at all.
I've got antique tractors that are 71 years old that still don't know
what an oil filter is and never will. ;-)
Plugging along getting the mkIII flyable in some very adverse weather.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Guys,
Real numbers are, the Rotax 912 uls pumps 4.5 gals. per minute and typically at
pressures in the neighborhood of 40-70 psi (average is approximately 45-60 psi).
The filters we use can handle at least 6 gal.+ per minute. Since Consumers
Reports did there oil filter report some things have changed. I live by that
magazine, but they can't do the same reports evey year, hince there are sometimes
big gaps in certain product reports.
Mobile One Racing 4T should be in automotive stores. I have seen it in several.
(Checker and Auto Zone)
Filters are not all the same. The old aircraft engines are not the same engine
that a Rotax is and neither is the technology. Different engines, time periods,
tolerances and knowledge.
Most filters use a standard paper element that has an effiency rating. Some paper
elements filter finer particles than others, hice the effiency rating. PurOne
has three filtering mediums not just one. Hince its 98% effiency rating.
I agree that if a filter plugs up enough to open the bypass then you have a far
bigger problem on your hands than worrying about which filter was on the aircraft.
Your engine is down right sick internally.
The Rotax European Champion filter is not strictly an aircarft filter, but designed
after car and motorcycles. At the time in Europe some filters had coiled
springs in the top of the filter and that is why Rotax doesn't use those types
as they can poke a hole in the top of the filter from vibration and they set
it up for a little higher pressures. They also upped the safety valve bypass pressures
that was too low at the time. A lot of engines now have higher oil pressures
due to our new style engines and changes in Manufacturing. Our engines
now days are much closer tolerances from the yester-year aircraft engines. Usually
the closer the tolerances the higher the oil pressure. Our engines are dry
sump and that means our engine oil lubricates with crankcase pressure. Wet
sumps are different.
While looking at oil don't bypass Amsoil motorcycle oil either 10-40 or 20-50.
It has better antifoaming and better shear protection than most others.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106943#106943
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Warp Drive prop inertia concerns |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi John,
Were all those hours with a 68"+, nickel edged prop? I don't remember you with
the nickeled edge prop.
Your engine will run just like Eric Tucker said, but if the inertia is too much
it just causes premature wear.
Tapered tips are better than square tips as they have less mass. Eric warned us
away from the nickeled edged props. Too weighty at the tips for the tranny longevity.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106945#106945
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Oil Filter question |
Our engines are dry sump and that means our engine oil lubricates
with crankcase pressure. Wet sumps are different.
| --------
| Roger Lee
Roger:
How about explaining the above. Does "dry sump" really mean "ur
engine oil lubricates with crankcase pressure??? And "wet sumps are
different."???
john h
mkIII|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Warp Drive prop inertia concerns |
| Were all those hours with a 68"+, nickel edged prop? I don't
remember you with the nickeled edge prop.
|
| --------
| Roger Lee
Hi Roger:
Don't know if you were addressing the question to John W or me.
If it was me, yes I flew all those hours with two 912's turning 70 and
72" Warps with nickle edges.
John W flies with a 68" Warp Drive and I can not remember if he has
nickle edges or not.
I have successfully completed Eric Tucker's 912 Course three times
now. I have good luck with 912's and get a lot of reliable service
from them.
Like I said in a previous msg, I am not going to do something with my
engine to put my life in jeopardy based on my flying style and the
"serious" areas I fly out West, in Canada, and Alaska.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Steve, all of the gas here in Minnesota is 10% ethanol, although there are a few
stations that are enthanol-free. I used the ethanol gas for many years and the
447 ran fine. A friend of mine started using the ethanol-free and I thought
his engine ran smoother, so I switched over and have had good luck with it.
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar
20 years flying it
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106957#106957
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Steve, all of the gas here in Minnesota is 10% ethanol, although
there are a few stations that are enthanol-free.
| Ralph
Ralph:
My biggest concern operating a 2 stroke on ethanol laced fuel is
moisture in the crank case, rusting main ball bearings. Might also
attack the cast iron piston rings.
I don't know, just thinking out loud.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Deiulio" <tpd47(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | A Continental A-65 on a Kolb MkIII? Why not? |
I am lucky to have access to a Continental A-65-8 for a very reasonable
price, much less than the cost of a typical Rotax 582, VW conversion,
Jabiru and the like. I would like to open a discussion thread on the use
of this engine on the Kolb Mk III Xtra. I realize I will have to design
and build my own engine mount but don't see too many other challenges I
can't live with (the -8 version will not accept a starter or alternator,
so I hand prop). I appreciate any input from the list both for and
against. Thanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
The weather here has been a bit nippy lately, which got me to thinking
about what I might encounter on a trip to Texas and back, so I put a
heater on the 503 today. I had one on the 447, but it wasn't worth
taking off and most likely wouldn't have fit any way. As a hedge against
hot weather I also put two air vents in the front of the new lexan doors
that I put in as well, just in case it gets hot.
Larry, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron <captainron1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A Continental A-65 on a Kolb MkIII? Why not? |
Well, it may work out, but a couple of things. It will vibrate a lot more then
any of the alternatives and the kolb cage structure maybe marginal for that. I
considered putting a O-200 Conti on my M3X. But again it may just be too much
for the frame. Ok it is too much for the frame. :-)
Also 65 hp for that much weight not the best choice. I would buy the motor anyway
if the price is real good, but that would be for another project.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "olendorf" <olendorf(at)gmail.com> |
Paul, I think you may have the meaning of dielectric backwards. I did for a long
time then finally looked it up and realized I had been doing the opposite of
what I really wanted. :o
"A dielectric, or electrical insulator, is a substance that is highly resistant
to the flow of an electric current."
That plane is looking NICE!
--------
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 447, Powerfin prop
Schenectady, NY
http://KolbFirestar.googlepages.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=106988#106988
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Would moisture have a chance to rust anything with the Pennzoil? I
can see
| synthetic allowing rust, but natural oil?
| Larry, Oregon
Larry:
Those are my thoughts. Don't know for sure. You all can bat it
around and solve the problem.
Interval between flights may play a big role in corrosion of internal
engine parts. I would think the longer they sit without operation,
especially full power to a good operating temp, the more chance for
corrosion. The worst case would be cranking one, letting it run a
short while without bringing it to operating temp. Condensation would
be waiting for that.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Would moisture have a chance to rust anything with the Pennzoil? I
can see
| synthetic allowing rust, but natural oil?
| Larry, Oregon
I cant remember where I read this,, but a natural mineral oil was better
for corrosion protection against moisture,,,, but synthetic oil was better
at reducing friction wear,,, so I use a mineral oil and synthetic blend.
Like john mentions an engine not run up to temps is more likely to have
condensation and moisture left in the system than an engine run at proper
temps. As to the alcohol or no alcohol in the gas should not make any
difference..... any time you burn a hydrocarbon in an engine it will
produce varing amounts of carbon c carbon monoxide co and carbon
dioxide co2 and h2o as byproducts, so all the moisture in an engine
does not come from the alcohol,,,, it comes from the gas... the alcohol
in the engine will prevent water buildup in the fuel system including the
fuel tank and carb bowls.
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
so all the moisture in an engine
| does not come from the alcohol,,,, it comes from the gas... the
alcohol
| in the engine will prevent water buildup in the fuel system
including the
| fuel tank and carb bowls.
|
| Boyd
Boyd:
I think a major consideration is everything that is pulled through the
carb goes through the crankcase in a two stroke before it gets to the
upper end of the engine.
Will this be a major factor in determining moisture/corrosion of
bearings on the crank shaft?
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Girard" <jindoguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A Continental A-65 on a Kolb MkIII? Why not? |
Weight for power, I think is the best reason. You'll have the weight of the
heaviest VW conversion with the power of a 582. Not a good trade, in my
book.
Why not sell the A65 and either add a bit more to it for a new 582 or get a
good used one?
Rick
On 4/14/07, Tom Deiulio wrote:
>
> I am lucky to have access to a Continental A-65-8 for a very reasonable
> price, much less than the cost of a typical Rotax 582, VW conversion, Jabiru
> and the like. I would like to open a discussion thread on the use of this
> engine on the Kolb Mk III Xtra. I realize I will have to design and build my
> own engine mount but don't see too many other challenges I can't live with
> (the -8 version will not accept a starter or alternator, so I hand prop). I
> appreciate any input from the list both for and against. Thanks.
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Girard
"Ya'll drop on in"
takes on a whole new meaning
when you live at the airport.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Bigelow" <up_country(at)hotmail.com> |
Here in Hawaii, E-10 was mandated by the legislature last year. There is no ethanol
free gas available at this time. This mixture has damaged a number of marine
engines and small engines for several reasons.
Boats with fiberglass fuel tanks have had major problems. The ethanol apparently
softens the resin. The resin residue has gunked up and damaged engines. Also,
small pieces of fiberglass break off from the softened resin, and clog the
filters and carbs.
In a moist enviornment, the ethanol absorbs water until it is saturated. A gunky
mixture of ethanol and water precipitates out and clogs carbs. Some of the
small engine operators (like yard services) have been adding Sea Foam, and have
reported it solves the clogged carb problem. Also, ethanol is corrisive, and
can damage fuel system parts that are not designed for an ethanol mixture.
There is a bill in the legislature this year that would make 92 octane ethanol
free gas available. The theory is that the high octane gas would serve any engine
that needs ethanol free fuel.
I spoke to a Bing representative, and asked him if Bing carbs are OK to use with
ethanol. He told me all of their products manufactured in the past few years
will not be damaged by ethanol. In general, I believe it is best to use straight
gas in both the two and four stroke engines we use, if you can get it.
--------
Dave Bigelow
Kamuela, Hawaii
FS2, HKS 700E
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107010#107010
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 4/15/2007 5:43:34 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
up_country(at)hotmail.com writes:
Here in Hawaii, E-10 was mandated by the legislature last year. There is no
ethanol free gas available at this time. This mixture has damaged a number
of marine engines and small engines for several reasons.
Hi Dave, Have you checked at the local airport? I thought that aircraft
that were STC'd for Mogas were not allowed ethanol and you could get straight
gas at the FBO.
Boats with fiberglass fuel tanks have had major problems. The
ethanol apparently softens resin. The resin residue has gunked up
and
damaged engines. Also, small pieces of fiberglass break off from the
softened resin, and clog the filters and carbs.
The FRP industry has already responded to this issue in the form of Ethanol
resistant resins. Recently I have located several options. It appears that
newer tanks with the right resin should be OK. Major boat companies are still
building integral tanks with the new resins.
My major concern is the effects that the gasohol has on the Rotax.
Steve
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
John, I would think if ethanol posed a real problem we would have seen it by now
in cars. The stations have had ethanol for over 10 years. I use it when flying
on trips where that's all I can get besides 100LL.
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar
20 years flying it
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107023#107023
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
At 11:49 PM 4/14/2007, boyd wrote:
>Like john mentions an engine not run up to temps is more likely to have
>condensation and moisture left in the system than an engine run at proper
>temps. As to the alcohol or no alcohol in the gas should not make any
>difference..... any time you burn a hydrocarbon in an engine it will
>produce varing amounts of carbon c carbon monoxide co and carbon
>dioxide co2 and h2o as byproducts, so all the moisture in an engine
>does not come from the alcohol,,,, it comes from the gas... the alcohol
>in the engine will prevent water buildup in the fuel system including the
>fuel tank and carb bowls.
The problem is not the water produced by burning hydrocarbons, but the fact
that the alcohol absorbs water. In small quantities it's not a problem; as
you say it absorbs any water buildup in the tank (up to a point), but if
that water comes back out of solution it can lead to corrosion in the
internal parts (crankcase and bearings) before it ever gets into the
cylinders to be burned.
-Dana
--
--
My software never has bugs. It just develops random features.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A Continental A-65 on a Kolb MkIII? Why not? |
| Weight for power, I think is the best reason. You'll have the weight
of the
| heaviest VW conversion with the power of a 582. | Rick
Gang:
Kolbs don't perform well with direct drive engines. Rick Neilsen and
John W have had experience with these set ups.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A Continental A-65 on a Kolb MkIII? Why not? |
I'm a day late because I've been using the digest but here's my
opinion on the A-65:
The ONLY drawback is the weight. A sturdy engine mounting would have
to be
created. Hard landings (and sudden stops) may overstress the cage
compression
design limits.
Definitely stay with the -8 (blanked accessory case plate, no pads
for starter or generator)
Continental also made -8 versions of the C-85 and C-90 that formula
one racers still use.
A65s prop start very easily.
65 is a conservative rating. At 2600 rpm it will match any rotax.
Mine used to swing a 74" metal MacCauley and climbed out briskly at
2300.
They were rated at 2300 redline which was an ultra conservative
number. They also sold
a version of the same engine with a few extra oil squirt holes and 4
ring pistons
rated at 80 hp, obviously called the A-80. I used the same ones in
mine.
BB, back working on my Kolb, light snow on the lawn this morning
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: pictures from a kolb |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Here are a few pics ....
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar
20 years flying it
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107030#107030
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fly_over__120.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cockpit_shot__369.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/over_the_lake__195.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/big_beautiful_lake__118.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/nine_mile_creek__557.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/coming_in_to_maple__173.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <kfackler(at)ameritech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A Continental A-65 on a Kolb MkIII? Why not? |
> Kolbs don't perform well with direct drive engines. Rick Neilsen and
> John W have had experience with these set ups.
Why is that? Understand, I'm not challenging your comment, I'm just curious.
-Ken Fackler
Kolb Mark II / N722KM
Rochester MI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A Continental A-65 on a Kolb MkIII? Why not? |
| Why is that? Understand, I'm not challenging your comment, I'm just
curious.
|
| -Ken Fackler
Morning Ken:
I don't know. Probably restricted prop size.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pictures from a kolb |
| Here are a few pics ....
|
| Ralph
Morning Ralph:
Great photos taken from one of the older flying Firestars.
I like the one on short final with the reflection of the instrument
panel in the windshield.
Also like your cockpit temp gauge. Did you also have a temp prob
outside the cockpit?
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A Continental A-65 on a Kolb MkIII? Why not? |
Yes I have said many times that direct drive engines don't perform well on
Kolbs but I guess I need to amend it a bit. Engines that are designed
correctly for direct drive might do well if they aren't too heavy.
Continental and Lycoming engines are designed to produce their rated power
down in the RPM range where it can swing a large efficient prop without
having the prop tips going supersonic.
I have discussed using the small Lycoming and Continental engines a few
times with Kolb and their opinion was NO they are just way too heavy.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: A Continental A-65 on a Kolb MkIII? Why not?
>
>
> | Weight for power, I think is the best reason. You'll have the weight
> of the
> | heaviest VW conversion with the power of a 582. | Rick
>
>
> Gang:
>
> Kolbs don't perform well with direct drive engines. Rick Neilsen and
> John W have had experience with these set ups.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A Continental A-65 on a Kolb MkIII? Why not? |
| The A-65 has a 36 pound or less weight disadvantage. Some of this
could be
| resolved by using a light wood propeller.
|
| More snow!
|
| Jack B. Hart FF004
Jack:
Numbers are great! But.........they do not always equate to the
"real" world.
Based on flight comparison, that is side by side flying with my mkIII
and John W's Jabiru powered direct drive 80 hp Kolbra, the Kolbra was
really puny, except in cruise flight, and the 912 powered mkIII and
the Jab powered Kolbra were about equal.
Now, side by side performance comparison with John W's new 912ULS
powered Kolbra and my 912ULS powered mkIII. John W blew me away in
take off, climb, and cruise.
Early on there was a Subaru powered mkIII that could barely fly with
the direct drive configuration.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A Continental A-65 on a Kolb MkIII? Why not? |
| One of the great things about this list is that people are flying
engines
| other than Rotax. This shows the skill of builders and the strength
of
| Homer Kolbs and Dennis Souder's efforts that Kolbs are not limited
to Rotax
| engines. What is important is the fact that we safely fly over and
under
| weight Kolb knock offs with a variety of engines, reduction units,
and
| propellers. That is what "experimental" is all about.
|
| Jack B. Hart FF004
Hi Jack:
I'm sorry. I left the most important part out of my last post, which
turned out to be a comparison between John W and my airplanes. My
intention was not to push Rotax, although I will not hesitate to tell
you how much I like the engine I fly with.
What I wanted to say was Kolbs do not fly well with direct drive
engines. They do much better with engines, not necessarily Rotax,
that are equipped with reduction drives. Kolbs are super STOL type
aircraft. If you power them other than a reduction drive, you take
away from this capability. The first aircraft that comes to mind that
flies with a reduction drive is the old Helio Curior, a super STOL
aircraft. Part of that spetacular package is the powerful engine that
turn a big prop through a reduction drive to slow it down.
Kolbs were not designed to fly off 4,000 ft paved runways. Rather
more at home on air strips like my little strip, Gantt International
Airport, that started off life in the cow pasture on 600 feet of
unimproved rough sod. Kolbs will land on sand bars in the Tallapoosa
River in Alabama or the Sag River in the Arctic North Slope of Alaska.
Kolbs fly well when they are loaded up to their max gross weight.
Some of us even push that a bit and they still fly well. I was not
knocking anyone who was experimenting with their Kolb or other
homebuilt. I have done and still do a lot of experimenting with my
airplane, and airplanes I have built in the past.
I will say that flying with an engine that is not reliable,
underpowered, and barely flying on the edge, is hazardous to ones
health. I for one do not like that kind of flight and would much
rather have an aircraft that is more comfortable to fly and well above
the danger zone.
I know you are terribly interested in low weight and low fuel burn.
I'd love to have the low fuel burn, but get a lot more enjoyment out
of performance than economy.
When I share my experiences, I am also sharing my desires. I think
that is natural for a person to do that. Don't get me wrong. I am
not trying to convince you or anyone else to build, equip, and fly
like me. If you want to, great! Then we can comfortably fly
together.
Take care,
john h
mkIII
Winds are 23 mph gusting to 33. Not conducive to good flight testing.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Pearce" <rap(at)isp.com> |
I need some education the Rotax manual says to use RON 95 or
EN228 premium for fuel or 100LL The highest octane I can find in my area
is 91 or 100LL. What do RON or EN228 mean? Rick Pearce MK3 912ULS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912ULS octane |
I need some education the Rotax manual says to use RON 95 or
EN228 premium for fuel or 100LL The highest octane I can find in my
area is 91 or 100LL. What do RON or EN228 mean? Rick Pearce MK3 912ULS
Hi Rick:
Forget all that and go with 91 octane minimum for the 912ULS. That is
91 octane, the US rating for antki-knock.
The 912UL operates on a minimum of 87 octane, as do all the Rotax 2
strokes except the 618, which is out of production. How about the
532, Richard P? Does it operate on 87 or 91 minimum?
I just looked in my 912ULS Operators Manual. They used to list two
different numbers that had to be added together and divided by two to
get the correct US octane rating for the 912ULS, which was 91 octane.
I think those old numbers were 95 + 87 / 2 = 91.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: A Continental A-65 on a Kolb MkIII? Why not? |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
jbhart(at)onlyinternet.ne wrote:
>
>
> The point is that if one can run identical propellers at the same setting,
> the performance of the A-65 minus the 36 pound weight increase will be equal
> to the 912 up to the point of 84% open throttle. The propeller does not
> care if it is gear or pulley or direct driven.
>
>
This is not quite true, if he uses a metal prop that was designed to cruise and
be efficient at 100 MPH, it might not do very well in a slower cruising Kolb.
A wood prop would probably be even worse, and less efficient. 36 pounds is
not that much extra, IF IT HOLDS TRUE when all is said and done.
What would worry me is the prop, having lower power with heavy weight will make
it a poorly performing airplane. Having lower power, high weight, with an inefficient
prop will make the plane almost not worth flying.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107098#107098
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912ULS octane |
| I think those old numbers were 95 + 87 / 2 = 91.
|
Gang:
Should have added, and I forgot, one of those was RON and one MON.
Both ratings were not US type ratings for anti-knock.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Warp Drive prop inertia concerns |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
John W,
Why are you only running 68 inch prop ? I would think the 70 or even 72 would
perform better on a 912 ULS ...
I also have nickel leading edges on my prop also, I plan on flying through some
rain, and they are needed for that, no way do I want go through trying to put
and keep leading edge tape on the prop, it sounds like a real pain in the arse
from what I have read about it. I am not to worried about the inertia of the
prop, there are so many warp drive props in use on 912's and it has never been
an issue. I would rather have a prop that will take some abuse and stay
together than a lighter one that is in limits, and that I have to worry about
comming apart.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107104#107104
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912ULS octane |
At 02:29 PM 4/14/2007, Rick Pearce wrote:
> I need some education the Rotax manual says to use RON 95 or
> EN228 premium for fuel or 100LL The highest octane I can find in my area
> is 91 or 100LL. What do RON or EN228 mean?
I don't know what EN228 is, but RON is "Research Octane Number", one of the
primary measurements used for a fuel's antiknock rating. RON is the
typical number seen in Europe. There is also the "Motor Octane -Number",
which is the same as the Aviation Lean rating, and which is usually about
8-10 points lower. The number displayed on U.S. gas pumps is the average
of the two ((R+M)2), which averages 4-5 points lower than RON. Thus 91
octane pump gas is equivalent to RON 95.
-Dana
--
--
My software never has bugs. It just develops random features.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A Continental A-65 on a Kolb MkIII? Why not? |
At 02:27 PM 4/15/2007, John Hauck wrote:
>What I wanted to say was Kolbs do not fly well with direct drive
>engines. They do much better with engines, not necessarily Rotax,
>that are equipped with reduction drives...
There's nothing magical about the presence (or absence) of a reduction drive.
If you have two engines of the same horsepower and same weight, but one has
a direct drive prop turning at, say, 2500 rpm, and the other one has a 2:1
reduction with the engine turning 5000 rpm, the performance will be identical.
That said, one way to get more power out of a given engine is to turn it
faster. This was less feasible in the 1930's and 1940's when the A-65, for
example, was designed, but modern metallurgy has come a long way, so we can
cruise nowadays at rpm's that would have been way above redline in an older
engine. This is why a 65hp Rotax engine weighs considerably less than a
65hp Continental. However, turning a small prop fast is less efficient, so
we have reduction drives. If the reduction drive assembly weighs less then
the bare engine's weight difference, you get better performance.
Sign... my Ultrastar sits in my fabric garage, as the rain and winds batter
my half rebuilt trailer...
-Dana
--
--
My software never has bugs. It just develops random features.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Warp Drive prop inertia concerns |
>
I would rather have a prop that will take some abuse and stay together than a lighter
one that is in limits, and that I have to worry about comming apart.
>
Mike,
Doesn't this void the engine warrenty?
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912ULS octane |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Guys,
My new 912 100hp manual states 91 oct. or higher. I looked in the 912 80 hp and
because it is a lower compression it gave 87 oct ok.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107113#107113
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
>>>>>>>>>
Boyd:
I think a major consideration is everything that is pulled through the
carb goes through the crankcase in a two stroke before it gets to the
upper end of the engine.
Will this be a major factor in determining moisture/corrosion of
bearings on the crank shaft?
john h
mkIII
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
John
I think that the major factor in determining moisture/corrosion on the crank
shaft would be
1 frequency of use... in an engine that is used only infrequently will
allow the oil protecting the metal parts to drain off leaving it exposed to
whatever is in the environment.
2 temp of the engine when shut down. If it is shut down cold the
possibility of condensation is much greater,
3 the type of oil... synthetics drain off the metal parts faster than
mineral oil. And could also reduce proper lubrication on start up. [ if
infrequently used] ( I've been using mineral / synthetics blend...you get
the best of both worlds)
4 the humidity of the air where the engine is stored... would affect
1,2,and 3 above.
In a 2 stroke the biggest worry for me would be keeping the dust and dirt
out by the use of a good filter,, the moisture would be of little concern
if operated correctly. The heat in the engine will keep the moisture boiled
out. The oil in the fuel should coat and protect everything from the
moisture. Even in a 4 stroke,, the moisture from humidity /combustion
process will end up in the bottom end... just at a smaller percent.
Remember you are using blow by to force the oil back to the oil tank. And
all the same precautions concerning moisture apply.
If putting any engine away for any length of time,,, it would be very
beneficial to use some type of fogging / storage oil just before shutdown.
The fogging oil is designed to stick to the parts without draining off and
protecting the engine parts.
I read in a magazine where a gentleman would turn the prop over once or
twice a month over a years time till he sold the engine/plane ,,, his
thought process was to keep things moving..... but turning it over without
getting the oil up to temp and pressure,, caused the rings to scrap all the
remaining oil off the cylinder walls and the bearings went dry... when the
engine was finally fired up it had very poor performance, the teardown
showed a multitude of moisture related problems... moral of the story was
run it properly or store it properly,, anything else will cause problems.
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
The problem is not the water produced by burning hydrocarbons, but the fact
that the alcohol absorbs water. In small quantities it's not a problem; as
you say it absorbs any water buildup in the tank (up to a point), but if
that water comes back out of solution it can lead to corrosion in the
internal parts (crankcase and bearings) before it ever gets into the
cylinders to be burned.
-Dana
Dana..
Any alcohol in the tank will not reach outside the tank to find extra
moisture to absorb... it will only work on what is already in the tank....
thus if you fill the tank when done flying and force all the high humidity
air from the tank before it has a chance to condensate on the tank walls and
enter into the gasohol mix you will minimize the problem....
Still in my opinion,, the greatest amount of problems associated with
alcohol in the gas is the corrosion to storage tanks and seals used in the
system. NOT corrosion problems in the combustion process.
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912ULS octane |
John Hauck wrote:
>
>
>
>
> I need some education the Rotax manual says to use RON 95 or
> EN228 premium for fuel or 100LL The highest octane I can find in my
> area is 91 or 100LL. What do RON or EN228 mean? Rick Pearce MK3 912ULS
>
> Hi Rick:
>
> Forget all that and go with 91 octane minimum for the 912ULS. That is
> 91 octane, the US rating for antki-knock.
>
> The 912UL operates on a minimum of 87 octane, as do all the Rotax 2
> strokes except the 618, which is out of production. How about the
> 532, Richard P? Does it operate on 87 or 91 minimum?
>
> I just looked in my 912ULS Operators Manual. They used to list two
> different numbers that had to be added together and divided by two to
> get the correct US octane rating for the 912ULS, which was 91 octane.
>
> I think those old numbers were 95 + 87 / 2 = 91.
>
> john h
> mkIII
Wikipedia is a wonderful thing:
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A Continental A-65 on a Kolb MkIII? Why not? |
Gang:
Kolbs don't perform well with direct drive engines. Rick Neilsen and
John W have had experience with these set ups.
john h
mkIII
John I think the problems that have been noticed by rick and john w is
direct drive on high revving engines requiring a small diameter prop. The
a65 would be a slow turning engine and could turn a much larger diameter
prop and would work well that way, the big disadvantage would be hp to
weight ratio.
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A Continental A-65 on a Kolb MkIII? Why not? |
The
| a65 would be a slow turning engine and could turn a much larger
diameter
| prop and would work well that way, the big disadvantage would be
hp to
| weight ratio.
|
| Boyd
On a Kolb the prop diameter would be limited.
Agree the VW was designed to turn more rpm. But the Jab is an
aircraft engine from the get go, not a converted auto engine.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Old Ultrastar, Old Pilot but first ultralight, any advice? |
| From: | "Matt Hancuh" <mhancuh(at)msn.com> |
The Ultrastar was built by someone else,(Bruce Borg) from one of the 80-83 kits,
and it's powered by a ULII02 that runs very well in the opinion of someone that's
got no other experience but this engine.
The airframe is in very good condition and so are the wings and tail. The aircraft
has a cannister BRS that was repacked 08/04
I've got about 800 hours in Pipers and Cessnas, the last 100 hours or so, over
the last few years, have been spent flying a PA-11 and a PA-12.
The field that I intend to fly out of is the sod field that surrounds my house,
which allows me to point into the wind at all times with from 520 to 600 ft of
runway in front of me.
I've been doing some taxi tests to get used to the different swing of the nose
(since it's a pusher) and the pilot position. All advice is welcome, the two questions
I have off the bat are...
1) I've got 3 small holes in the fabric, two caused by transport (rudder cables
rubbed the elevator) and one in the bottom of the wing. All 3 holes are about
the size of a pencil eraser. I need to patch these I suppose, so what's the
smart way to do that?
2) Along with the purchase I've got half a bottle of penzoil outdoor. I'll need
more oil, is it only penzoil outdoor that I want or will many 2cycle oils do?
Thanks for the time and the information, don't worry about being tactful, I've
been with the same woman for 20 years, I know I don't know nuthin'.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107147#107147
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ms Dixie update |
| From: | "Paul Petty" <paulpetty(at)myway.com> |
Thanks Craig,
After two band-aids on two fingers the Lexan is cut and fitted. Have to postpone
the move to the airport another week. But we are geting there.
http://groups.msn.com/AerialWorld/kolbra012.msnw?Page=4
Page 4 and 5 are the latest... Been a long day!
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
Final assembly!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107151#107151
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A Continental A-65 on a Kolb MkIII? Why not? |
John
The Jabiru engine is a aircraft engine but it runs at a higher RPM than most
aircraft engines. Stuart at Power Fin once commented that they, Jabiru, just
didn't understand props. Aircraft engines need to turn their rated power in
the very low 2000 range to be able to efficiently handle a 70-72 inch prop
which is almost necessary to fly a big Kolb very well. Granted with enough
power you can get the same thrust but then you have more weight and use more
fuel.
Even the big WWII engines (Merlin and some of the big radial engines) used
reduction drives to efficiently power the huge props they used. Big slow
turning props produce much more thrust than a small fast turning prop.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 5:21 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: A Continental A-65 on a Kolb MkIII? Why not?
>
> The
> | a65 would be a slow turning engine and could turn a much larger
> diameter
> | prop and would work well that way, the big disadvantage would be
> hp to
> | weight ratio.
> |
> | Boyd
>
>
> On a Kolb the prop diameter would be limited.
>
> Agree the VW was designed to turn more rpm. But the Jab is an
> aircraft engine from the get go, not a converted auto engine.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A Continental A-65 on a Kolb MkIII? Why not? |
I guess we won't know until someone actually does it. :)
Since it wouldn't be on a type certificated airplane there would be
some weight saving options:
clunky mags replaced with electronic ignition
lighter exhaust system
fuel injection (Lar has a spare ready)
A few advantages: no oil cooler, no filter, no water/radiator.
No hoses to leak except fuel
The A-65 was approved for several diameter props, metal and wood.
I can't see any reason not to use a light composite.
Unless I'm missing something, a Warpdrive prop spun by any engine,
redrive or not,
at 23-2600 rpm should yield the same gittup and go.
Sensenich made the most efficient wood.
Parts are still available but I would have that old crankshaft
magnafluxed.
You may have to enclose the engine to get the right air cooling effect
or try to duplicate the J3 Cub scoopers.
Use oil drilled con rods for the higher RPMs
A-50, A-65, A-75, C-75 (not the same engine folks), C-85 all used the
same stroke crank.
Some tapered, some flanged. -A rare few were hollow nosed for prop
control (erk!)
Replace or remachine the oil pump, they were marginal to start with
Good luck, BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A Continental A-65 on a Kolb MkIII? Why not? |
John Hauck wrote:
>
> The
> | a65 would be a slow turning engine and could turn a much larger
> diameter
> | prop and would work well that way, the big disadvantage would be
> hp to
> | weight ratio.
> |
> | Boyd
>
>
> On a Kolb the prop diameter would be limited.
>
> Agree the VW was designed to turn more rpm. But the Jab is an
> aircraft engine from the get go, not a converted auto engine.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
Can I take a shot at this?
Here's one of the better explanations I've seen:
http://www.geocities.com/vjaqua/
Click on 'Propellers'.
Vance Jaqua was a pretty smart guy & could explain things where non-tech
people could understand tech subjects.
It really is all about prop diameter ('disk loading', or 'mass flow').
The Jab or direct drive Sub turns *the prop* too fast (typically
3000-3400 rpm) at rated power to turn a 6' diameter prop like the Rotax;
it must use a smaller dia prop so its efficiency, at low speed is poorer
than a typical a/c engine or a geared Rotax, engine.
The link above has a chart showing various efficiency curves of hp per
sq ft of prop area for various speeds. If you think about the two
extremes, 160 hp can lift a 2 seat helicopter straight up by having a
25-30 ft diameter 'propeller'(a 160hp C-172 staggers into the air), &
there aren't any low speed a/c using a pure jet, because of the tiny
disk area per hp.
If a geared Rotax and a direct drive Continental have the same HP at the
same *prop* rpm, they will have the same torque at the prop and they can
swing the same diameter/pitch prop. The only performance difference
would be due to difference in weight.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: pictures from a kolb |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
John, before I got the plane registered I flew with a temp gauge that had the probe
outside the cockpit indicating outside temp. I have since taken it off.
I'm glad you liked the pics. I put a couple hundred miles on my Goldwing today.
The field was too soft to fly from (typical springtime in Minnesota).
Have a safe flight to Sun-N-Fun ..
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar
20 years flying it
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107188#107188
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Thacker" <gbthacker(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Firestar II trailer.....thumbs |
What would you guys suggest as the minimum interior trailer length for my 97
Firestar II?
Gary
Souderton,PA
_________________________________________________________________
Download Messenger. Join the im Initiative. Help make a difference today.
http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=TAGHM_APR07
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Warp Drive prop inertia concerns |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
jbhart(at)onlyinternet.ne wrote:
>
>
> Mike,
>
> Doesn't this void the engine warrenty?
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Winchester, IN
>
>
I have not measured the inertia of the warp drive prop, nor do I know what it is.
It would be interesting to know, but I suspect it is in limits. If not,
its probably pretty close. I would like to know the number, but in the end I
am still going to use my Warp drive prop.
There are many many warp drive props running on Rotax 912's, probably more hours
with the warp drive than any other type of prop with no problems reported.
What does that tell you ? It tells me not to worry about it.
Now in a pusher configuration, there is always the possiblity of an engine part
going through the prop. Would you run a very light prop that would probably
throw a blade if a muffler part went through it, ripping the engine from its
mounts, just because you are worried about the engine warrenty ? That is a very
real concern, it happens.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107209#107209
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 4/14/2007 8:04:56 PM Central Standard Time,
jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com writes:
> My biggest concern operating a 2 stroke on ethanol laced fuel is
> moisture in the crank case, rusting main ball bearings. Might also
> attack the cast iron piston rings.
>
> I don't know, just thinking out loud.
>
> john h
> mkIII
John,
I feel the same way as I live where the humidity is seldom les than 70%.
Did you ever use fogging preservation oil in your early 2-strokes, and do you
think that is a good idea. All I know is my manual said to run preservation
oil through the carb on my 447. I have heard others say yes and no. At this
time Im not sure what to do ,but I am leaning toward following Rotax's advice,
except it seems to be hard on the plugs and I have to replace them sooner. .I
plan on doing a proper Decarb and inspection at 50 hours. What is the longest
you have run a 447 without a decarbon and not had trouble?
Ed Diebel
**************************************
See
what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Warp Drive prop inertia concerns |
In a message dated 4/15/2007 10:59:48 PM Central Standard Time,
orcabonita(at)hotmail.com writes:
> Would you run a very light prop that would probably throw a blade if a
> muffler part went through it, ripping the engine from its mounts, just because
> you are worried about the engine warrenty ? That is a very real concern, it
> happens.
>
> Mike
>
>
Has this senario actually happened, or, are you just afraid it
is going to happen. Is there documentation that these props throw blades with
no apparent cause? Do you have your muffler springs safetied along with
silicon in them? How about the newer clamps that replace the springs and cant break
and go through the prop?
Ed Diebel
**************************************
See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Bigelow" <up_country(at)hotmail.com> |
What is Octane Number (AKI)?
The AKI (Anti-Knock Index) is a measure of a particular gasoline blends ability
to resist engine knock. The stickers seen on gasoline dispensers describing the
Regular, Midgrade, and Premium grades of gasoline as 87, 89, or 91 octane are
commonly referred to as octane numbers. However, it is more accurate to refer
to those numbers as the Anti-Knock Index value or simply the AKI.
The AKI is determined in a laboratory by operating, under differing operating conditions,
two separate single-cylinder engines: a Research engine, by which a
Research Octane Number (RON) is determined and a Motor engine, by which the Motor
Octane Number (MON) is determined. The AKI posted on gasoline dispensers
is determined by the following mathematical equation: (RON+MON)/2 or (R+M)/2.
Rotax and HKS use RON numbers as the recommended octane in their manuals. Here's
a cross reference table:
AKI RON MON
87 90 83
89 92 85
92 96 88
--------
Dave Bigelow
Kamuela, Hawaii
FS2, HKS 700E
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107228#107228
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
What is the longest
| you have run a 447 without a decarbon and not had trouble?
|
| Ed
Hi Ed:
Remember, I was flying a 1985 and 86, vintage 447 with dual point ign
and caged wrist pin beIIIarings. In those days, I would get about 250
hours before the engine would get sick enough to tear down and
rebuild. My philosphy was to fly them until they showed some sign of
getting tired or sick. I did a lot of cross country flying back then.
Flew 5,800 rpm normally. Higher at times. We didn't do decarbons
back then, per se.
I had two engines back then. My second engine was one of the Disney
World engines. I kept one built on the bench all the time.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Petty" <paulpetty(at)myway.com> |
Scott,
Are you 100% sure about this? If so I have one hell of a mess. All my electrical
system appear to work fine and test good. I used it to prevent corosion.
Dielectric Silicone Compound Stops Electrical Failures. A MUST for all electronic
and standard ignitions. Meets OEM specifications. Only Dielectric Silicone
works on HIGH ENERGY IGNITION SYSTEMS. Prevents mis-readings. Seals out moisture
and corrosion. Recommended for sensor connections, computer connections, solenoids,
truck pigtails, plugs, ignition modules and coils, marine connections,
lighting systems, batteries, and terminals.
This is from the mfg. website
Regards
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
Final assembly!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107254#107254
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "olendorf" <olendorf(at)gmail.com> |
I found this over on the Matronics AeroElectric list;
"Hi Wayne,
Here's my understanding:
Properly designed electrical connectors make gas-tight connections
between the conductors. This means that as well as squishing all of the
air out of the interface, closing the connection will also squish out
any other liquid/grease in the joint, including dielectric grease.
Applying dielectric grease to a properly designed connector will not
interfere with the conductive properties of the joint because the grease
will get squished out of the places where the joint is gas-tigth.
However, applying dielectric grease may stave off corrosion at the
margins of the joint. At the margins (edge) of a connection, there may
exist narrow (microscopic) crevices/voids, which can be the perfect
environment for corrosion of the materials used to make the connection.
Regards,
Matt- "
--------
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 447, Powerfin prop
Schenectady, NY
http://KolbFirestar.googlepages.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107268#107268
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Warp Drive prop inertia concerns |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Ed,
Not on a Kolb, but there are quite a history of prop blades being thrown on small
experimental aircraft. I found quite a few accidents where prop blades were
thrown and the prop, or both the prop and engine was ripped from the plane.
I can not find a single fialure of the Kiev prop, but there are so few of them
out there it is hard to find any information or user reports for the Kiev.
There are even fewer examples of a Kiev prop on the 912-S. I think the Kiev
prop would be great on a 2 stroke Rotax, but I dont trust it on the 912-S.
What are the new clamps you are talking about for the muffler ? I have springs
with safety wire, but I would like to see the clamps if they are better. Can
you point me in the right direction ?
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107289#107289
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Old Ultrastar, Old Pilot but first ultralight, any advice? |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Matt,
My advice would be to go to bigger runway for your first Ultrastar flights. 600
feet is more than enough runway for the Ultrastar, but if you have never flown
a Kolb before, or if its been a very long time, go to some GA airport and
get used to takeoff and landings before trying to fly from a short field. How
long has it been since the plane has flown ? If something goes wrong with the
engine or plane, having thousands of feet of runway can save your plane or
even your life.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107291#107291
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II trailer.....thumbs |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Try this one. It's 5'X8'.
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar
20 years flying it
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107299#107299
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/on_the_trailer__192.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Welch" <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | The Perfect Engine |
Hi All, (and specifically John H.),
I have yet to fly my MkIII. There has been a lot of talk re: direct drive
vs. redrive, Rotax vs. everything else, etc. In regards to a MkIII....
what is the best engine power system you feel is the absolute best for a
Kolb....all things considered??
Now, I realize this can open up a HUGE can of worms, but if a person had
to rattle off all the items on their wishlist, what would it include in the
way of engines on a Kolb?
In other words....I have a Suzuki 1.0 (Raven) Redrive, with an Ivo 3
blade (72") electric in-flight adjustable prop. The engine is purportedly
to be about 62 (??) HP. Does this seem like a fairly reasonable
engine/prop combination, or is it really dumb?? Would this power be close
to what you would think is right, or is it greatly underpowered? Is an
engine in the 60 HP range w/ a redrive gonna do the job (at max. gross)?
Or does the MkIII REALLY need 80 HP before it can perform??
Just curious about your opinions.
Mike in SW Utah
_________________________________________________________________
Need a break? Find your escape route with Live Search Maps.
http://maps.live.com/?icid=hmtag3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
<< Btw whats the latest recomended oil for the 912 (Rotax only) is it
still the Honda semi syn? Paul Petty >>
Paul -
Again, based on experience-based advice from this List, I am running
Mobile-1 full synthetic, 20W-50. I've only changed my oil once so far.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-III, 912ul, 68 hrs tt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron <captainron1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The Perfect Engine |
In regards to a MkIII....
what is the best engine power system you feel is the absolute best for a
Kolb....all things considered?? ======
I doubt anyone would disagree that if you have the budget get a 912 rotax or a
914 Rotax. Its as close to plug and play for the Kolb as you can get.
If you don't or have a wild streak then you have many choices. the next best thing
IMO and I have been looking is the great plains VW with the reduction drive.
Its cheaper than the Rotax and has lots of power, maybe even more than you
will ever need, but its always easy to de-rate an engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A Continental A-65 on a Kolb MkIII? Why not? |
On a Kolb the prop diameter would be limited.
Agree the VW was designed to turn more rpm. But the Jab is an
aircraft engine from the get go, not a converted auto engine.
john h
mkIII
john I don't know why the prop dia would be limited on a kolb... the
engine mount could be built to raise the engine, to give boom clearance...
I would have to take some measurements, maybe it would have to mounted way
too high to work. I will concede here, I have not done the homework.
. But the Jab is an
aircraft engine from the get go,
true enough,,, but it was designed to produce the power at 3300 to 3500
(best of my memory) which is still 1000 rpm above the continental. Thus
the smaller prop to keep the tips sub sonic, the smaller prop works well at
135 to 150 mph.... but not on a kolb.
still without having done any homework,,, hp / weight would be my biggest
concern, and 65 hp on a mkIII seems short of power. Ok maybe at sea
level... but where I fly,, one would not be happy.
Not withstanding the cost,,, the 912 still seems the best engine for the
application. Or the 912s
boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Welch" <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Perfect Engine |
Thanks for the feedback, Ron, but I actually have my engine (Suzuki 1.0,
mounted and running a long time ago), and I can't afford to buy a different
one. However, do you think the 60 HP range is going to do the job??
Mike
(My GlaSar took all my real serious money) But I was seriously pondering
the idea of putting a turbo on the GEO and boost it up to 80 HP.
Anybody?? Anybody??
>From: Ron <captainron1(at)cox.net>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: The Perfect Engine
>Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 9:52:35 -0700
>
>
>In regards to a MkIII....
>what is the best engine power system you feel is the absolute best for a
>Kolb....all things considered?? ======
>
>I doubt anyone would disagree that if you have the budget get a 912 rotax
>or a 914 Rotax. Its as close to plug and play for the Kolb as you can get.
>If you don't or have a wild streak then you have many choices. the next
>best thing IMO and I have been looking is the great plains VW with the
>reduction drive. Its cheaper than the Rotax and has lots of power, maybe
>even more than you will ever need, but its always easy to de-rate an
>engine.
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Mortgage rates near historic lows. Refinance $200,000 loan for as low as
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Perfect Engine |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Welch" <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb-List: The Perfect Engine
> Hi All, (and specifically John H.),
>
> I have yet to fly my MkIII. There has been a lot of talk re: direct
> drive vs. redrive, Rotax vs. everything else, etc. In regards to a
> MkIII.... what is the best engine power system you feel is the absolute
> best for a Kolb....all things considered??
This is a continuation of the thread about the A65. Keeping in mind that
"Opinions are like A#$%#@, every body has one and few want to have another".
I purchased a Mark III with a 582, 10 gal of gas available. There was
nothing wrong with the plane, it was built to specs. just like the plans
called for. It flew like a Piper 150, nothing spectacular, steady, average
GA type plane. By its very performance one flew it like a GA plane, handling
was the same- steady and uninspiring. I also had a Firestar II with a 447 on
it, also built to plans, a bit cleaned up as far as drag was concerned. It
flew like your best dream, steady in configurations that made my flight
instructor cringe and shake, and me smile. Yes the Mark III flew and flew
well, handling gross weights up to 900 lbs, but it was like flying a truck
compared to the Firestar. If I had been able to put a engine on it with the
extra power to bring it alive, I would have definitely kept it. As it was I
sold it to a fella on the Oregon Coast. I should also mention that my take
off point is at least 4000 feet. The plane flies well at sea level.
The common desire of most of us is to have a four stroke. Wouldn't mind it
myself, but they are going to have to get a lot better before I will try one
on my Firestar. A older fella that I met at the Alvord one year had a
firestar that he put a Moser? four stroke direct drive on. It was supposed
to put out 37 hp. He was concerned about flying it for the first time. My
friend, very good pilot, took it up for him. It sounded great, but he had to
fly it in ground effect for quite a while before he could get it up in the
air. Its performance was quite marginal. The guy flew it there a bit and
then after he got it home (at 300 ft asl) tried to take it off and crashed
it when it got out of ground effect. It has never flown again.
The purpose of all this long winded stuff is that you should endeavor to put
the best engine on that you can. It can make all the difference in the world
as to your safety and enjoyment.
I have had rides in both Pfer and JW's Kolbra, neither of them had any
resemblance to the Mark III that I owned.
Larry, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II trailer.....thumbs |
Ralph,
I would think that set up is putting too much load on the tail boom tube
where the support holds it. Any bumps or side loads are going to put a
tremendous loads on the tail.
Denny Rowe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph B" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 12:10 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Firestar II trailer.....thumbs
>
> Try this one. It's 5'X8'.
>
> Ralph
>
> --------
> Ralph B
> Original Firestar
> 20 years flying it
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107299#107299
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/on_the_trailer__192.jpg
>
>
> --
> 4:22 PM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Old Ultrastar, Old Pilot but first ultralight, any advice? |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Matt, take Mike's advice and get some time on a long runway before attempting the
600' backyard strip. As far as oils go, Klotz synthetic (50:1) is the way to
go for low ash and no carbon (a shortcoming of the 2-stroke engine). It's very
easy to repair the fabric. Cut a square hole around the puncture. Clean it
with lacquer thinner. Cut a piece of new fabric oversized by at least an inch
around the square hole. Apply polybrush (dope) around the hole. Apply another
coat and let dry. Apply a third coat and then lay the patch over the hole. Use
your fingers and brush to straighten it before it dries. Let dry for 24 hours,
then heat shrink at low temps until it starts to stick with a clothes iron.
Apply more dope, let dry, and then paint. That's it.
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar
20 years flying it
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107332#107332
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The Perfect Engine |
Mike
The best engine for a Kolb MKIII is a 100HP Rotax. It has proven
reliability, it makes the MKIII perform as a Kolb was designed to fly and it
is supported by Kolb with a installation package. If are willing to spend
the money don't think twice buy it.
Now if you can't afford the hefty price the 80 HP rotax for a few dollars
less would be the second best. After that we get into a real tough choice.
There are Suzukis, VWs, BMWs Verniers and some other new engines.
The Suzuki is a bit under powered to get the full potential out of a MKIII.
Also if you keep the in-flight adjustable prop on it, it will not be a light
sport airplane. Add a turbo? Is that engine designed for it? Would you be
compromising the reliability of the engine? I flew my MKIIIC with a
underpowered engine (direct drive VW) for four years and I just wasn't
happy. A underpowered MKIII is a airplane but it isn't a Kolb.
I would really like to hear more from the BMW guys out there. These engines
could be the best (some what) lower cost option. The engines appear to be
reliable and there is a redrive that is designed for the engine. There are
also quite a few flying in Europe.
As a barging basement engine the VW can't be beat. The engine seems to have
a life of its own even after the cars that used it have been out of
production except in South America for what 30 years. There is continual
after market development on the engine with new stuff being developed for it
all the time, good stuff and cheap. Just in the last years there have been
aluminum cases, water cooled heads, Nicisil cylinders, light weight
starters, new reduction drives. Stay tuned. If the new redrive works as well
as I think it does, this might be the very best price/performance engine on
the market.
I would stay away from direct drive engines. There just aren't any on the
market that properly fly a Kolb.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Welch" <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 12:35 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: The Perfect Engine
>
>
> Hi All, (and specifically John H.),
>
> I have yet to fly my MkIII. There has been a lot of talk re: direct
> drive vs. redrive, Rotax vs. everything else, etc. In regards to a
> MkIII.... what is the best engine power system you feel is the absolute
> best for a Kolb....all things considered??
>
> Now, I realize this can open up a HUGE can of worms, but if a person had
> to rattle off all the items on their wishlist, what would it include in
> the way of engines on a Kolb?
>
> In other words....I have a Suzuki 1.0 (Raven) Redrive, with an Ivo 3
> blade (72") electric in-flight adjustable prop. The engine is
> purportedly to be about 62 (??) HP. Does this seem like a fairly
> reasonable engine/prop combination, or is it really dumb?? Would this
> power be close to what you would think is right, or is it greatly
> underpowered? Is an engine in the 60 HP range w/ a redrive gonna do the
> job (at max. gross)? Or does the MkIII REALLY need 80 HP before it can
> perform??
>
> Just curious about your opinions.
> Mike in SW Utah
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Need a break? Find your escape route with Live Search Maps.
> http://maps.live.com/?icid=hmtag3
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II trailer.....thumbs |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Denny, I've been trailering on this for over 20 years. The reason it doesn't dent
the main fuse tube is because the trailer is a single axle and has enough cushion
to absorb the bumps in the road. This design would not work for a large
2-axle trailer and would dent the tube. I know this as it happened to a friend
of mine. The pedestal support is 6" X 1" with carpet remnant for the tube.
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar
20 years flying it
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107337#107337
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Key" <dhkey(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | The Perfect Engine |
I had a Mark III with a 582 and it was a blast, so I'd say it doesn't need
the 80hp.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Key" <dhkey(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | The Perfect Engine |
but the 582 ate gas very quickly. Went with a 912 this time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Welch" <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Perfect Engine |
Thanks Rick, and Larry for your valuable opinions.
This information is giving me a lot of things to think about. Yes, I
greatly want the MkIII to perform (like a bat out of hell......well, a slow
bat!) I am leaning more and more toward the turbo.
Yes, there is a turbo for the GEO engine, and I hear it performs VERY well
with it (GEO made a turbo version in their cars, as an option for a few
years). Jeron, at Raven Redrives actually has a complete bolt-on kit that
he has put together. ($1700) The torque goes from 58 ftlbs @ 3300 to
107ftlbs @ 3500. What a difference!!!!! And at only 2lbs boost and
this is the reason I chose GEO, this is at 2 gal/hr. I do feel I get the
idea that more power is better, in regard to powering the MkIII. Thanks a
ton for your input. Mike in SW Utah
>From: "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: The Perfect Engine
>Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 13:52:05 -0400
>
>
>
>Mike
>
>The best engine for a Kolb MKIII is a 100HP Rotax. It has proven
>reliability, it makes the MKIII perform as a Kolb was designed to fly and
>it is supported by Kolb with a installation package. If are willing to
>spend the money don't think twice buy it.
>
>Now if you can't afford the hefty price the 80 HP rotax for a few dollars
>less would be the second best. After that we get into a real tough choice.
>There are Suzukis, VWs, BMWs Verniers and some other new engines.
>
>The Suzuki is a bit under powered to get the full potential out of a MKIII.
>Also if you keep the in-flight adjustable prop on it, it will not be a
>light sport airplane. Add a turbo? Is that engine designed for it? Would
>you be compromising the reliability of the engine? I flew my MKIIIC with a
>underpowered engine (direct drive VW) for four years and I just wasn't
>happy. A underpowered MKIII is a airplane but it isn't a Kolb.
>
>I would really like to hear more from the BMW guys out there. These engines
>could be the best (some what) lower cost option. The engines appear to be
>reliable and there is a redrive that is designed for the engine. There are
>also quite a few flying in Europe.
>
>As a barging basement engine the VW can't be beat. The engine seems to have
>a life of its own even after the cars that used it have been out of
>production except in South America for what 30 years. There is continual
>after market development on the engine with new stuff being developed for
>it all the time, good stuff and cheap. Just in the last years there have
>been aluminum cases, water cooled heads, Nicisil cylinders, light weight
>starters, new reduction drives. Stay tuned. If the new redrive works as
>well as I think it does, this might be the very best price/performance
>engine on the market.
>
>I would stay away from direct drive engines. There just aren't any on the
>market that properly fly a Kolb.
>
>Rick Neilsen
>Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Welch" <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 12:35 PM
>Subject: Kolb-List: The Perfect Engine
>
>
>>
>>
>> Hi All, (and specifically John H.),
>>
>> I have yet to fly my MkIII. There has been a lot of talk re: direct
>>drive vs. redrive, Rotax vs. everything else, etc. In regards to a
>>MkIII.... what is the best engine power system you feel is the absolute
>>best for a Kolb....all things considered??
>>
>> Now, I realize this can open up a HUGE can of worms, but if a person
>>had to rattle off all the items on their wishlist, what would it include
>>in the way of engines on a Kolb?
>>
>> In other words....I have a Suzuki 1.0 (Raven) Redrive, with an Ivo 3
>>blade (72") electric in-flight adjustable prop. The engine is
>>purportedly to be about 62 (??) HP. Does this seem like a fairly
>>reasonable engine/prop combination, or is it really dumb?? Would this
>>power be close to what you would think is right, or is it greatly
>>underpowered? Is an engine in the 60 HP range w/ a redrive gonna do the
>>job (at max. gross)? Or does the MkIII REALLY need 80 HP before it can
>>perform??
>>
>> Just curious about your opinions. Mike in SW Utah
>>
>>_________________________________________________________________
>>Need a break? Find your escape route with Live Search Maps.
>>http://maps.live.com/?icid=hmtag3
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Cant afford to quit your job? Earn your AS, BS, or MS degree online in 1
year.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "flykolb" <flykolb(at)wowway.com> |
| Subject: | The Perfect Engine |
David,
I had a 503 (53HP) on my Mark III and put on over 50 hours per year and
had a lot of good flying. Not a screeming eagle but a very reliable
engine that was simple to take care of. I was able to take passengers
slightly over 200 lbs but it was not great.
Your 60 HP will give you a lot of pleasure and it seems to be a safe
range.
That said, I too would love to have a 100HP engine but for the PRICE!!!
Jim
Mark III with a 532
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II trailer.....thumbs |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
It's small and easy to maneuver with the single axle. It has negative tongue pressure,
which means when I remove it from the ball hitch, the tongue goes up and
it rests on the tailwheel. If you think it would be unstable on the road, it's
not. This is because the slipstream acts like a huge rudder going down the
road and actually stabilizes it. I've trailered though some heavy winds with
this. The faster you go, the more stable it becomes. In a good wind I can feel
the back of the car moving a little. I only go about 7 miles to the strip, so
it's not too bad. I wouldn't want to trailer it for long distances, but I'll
bet I could. Here it is in my garage. I haven't ever had any problems with this,
but I have to make sure the trailer wheels are chocked and the tongue prop
is secure before unloading. If it moves, the wings can get dented easily. I have
to be very careful.
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar
20 years flying it
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107376#107376
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tucked_in_bed__135.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Burning 100LL in the 912 |
| From: | "Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
(NOTE - Subject line changed to reflect current thread topic.)
"John Hauck" wrote : << My less than an hour old 912ULS is full of its
first taste of Valvoline Durablend 20W50. John W and I both use this
oil in our
912ULS engines. Takes care of the lead problem associated with 100LL.
>>
John, and other 912 Drivers -
I've seen this advice before: The use of semi-synthetic oil if you burn
lots of 100LL in your 912. (Helps suspend the lead from the gas.)
Presently, I'm using Mobil-1 full synthetic in my 912ul, because all my
flying up to now has been local, and 87 (or better) octane has always
been available. (I bring my gas to the airport in 5-gal fuel cans.)
So here's a question for you seasoned 912 operators:
With the upcoming Monument Valley trip, I will be refueling at airports
that only sell 100LL. Over the course of this trip, I will likely put
8-10 hours on my plane burning 100LL. Not enough to make it worth doing
an oil change with semi-synthetic.
But ... would it be worthwhile to run those tankfulls of 100LL with TCP
fuel additive, or Marvel Mystery Oil to prevent buildup of excessive
carbon? Or is ten hours not enough to worry about?
Dennis Kirby
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pictures from a kolb |
Last summer I took this picture of someone going up the river
"standing"
> on a jet ski;>>
Hi All,
sometimes in the summer I fly along the Ridgeway. A neolithic track
which skirts the brow of a range of hills locally. They were long
distance tracks all over the country.
Lately kids on motor bikes have been hacking the surface up, because
they often ride the tracks in the wet and they completely spoil the
silence which walkers following the track desire They are also breaking
the law.
Therefore I have no compunction about creeping up behind the noisy
little blighters at 25 feet. They can`t hear me coming and the reaction
as that big black shadow falls across them does my heart good. They
skitter around right and left, brake, accelerate. It really puts the
fear of the Lord into them. Yeah!
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Continental A-65 on a Kolb MkIII? Why not? |
| From: | "Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
"Tom Deiulio" asked: <<... the use of this engine on the Kolb Mk III
Xtra? >>
Tom -
This topic thread was discussed on this forum a few years ago.
The biggest difficulty with installing the A-65 on a Kolb is making room
for the underslung oil tank. You'd have to cut away a significant
amount of the original Kolb airframe in the motor mount area to make
room. This includes cutting the primary 2-inch diam root tube (to which
the motor mounts are attached) at the aft end.
The structural integrity of what's left of the frame after you cut away
all that tubing to accommodate the A-65 would likely be compromised.
Plus (as someone else already mentioned), there's the weight issue.
Only 65 hp for an engine weight nearing 190 lbs is not a great trade.
Details are in the archives ...
Dennis Kirby
Mark-III
New Mexico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II trailer.....thumbs |
Ralph B wrote:
>
>Denny, I've been trailering on this for over 20 years. The reason it doesn't dent
the main fuse tube is because the trailer is a single axle and has enough
cushion to absorb the bumps in the road. This design would not work for a large
2-axle trailer and would dent the tube. I know this as it happened to a friend
of mine. The pedestal support is 6" X 1" with carpet remnant for the tube.
>
>Ralph
>
>--------
>Ralph B
>Original Firestar
>20 years flying it
>
>
>
Ralph,
Enjoy seeing someone who thinks outside the box!!! Two many Nay
sayer's out there. I would think 20 years of trailering would be enough
to convince most anyone, but then again!!! I was told I would need a
trailer to haul my FireFly a mile to my airstrip, but decided that was
too much trouble loading and unloading. So, I worked up a a tow bar to
be able to tow it behind my car on it's main gear to my field. Been
doing it for ten years so far. Still would love to have a hanger to
avoid unfolding and folding every time I fly, but for now it's a solution.
Terry - Firefly #95
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Burning 100LL in the 912 |
| From: | "Paul Petty" <paulpetty(at)myway.com> |
Dennis,
Dont think carbon will be an issue. If you run a 912 on a steady diet of 100LL
the problem is the build up of lead in the sprag clutch in the gear box that
the starter engages.
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
Final assembly!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107389#107389
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: pictures from a kolb |
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot1(at)tx.rr.com> |
To try and stay on subject, here is a photo I took yesterday.
Here are two links to some video I shot yeasterday:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzEZ11zUjd4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6meY76aiJc
--------
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolbra, 912ULS
http://home.tx.rr.com/kolbrapilot
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107422#107422
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0607_160.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron <captainron1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The Perfect Engine |
Bob Bean has a Turbo 1.0 Suzuki, I think he is happy with it, maybe he can jump
in and give us his latest thoughts on this.
=======================
---- Mike Welch wrote:
============
Thanks for the feedback, Ron, but I actually have my engine (Suzuki 1.0,
mounted and running a long time ago), and I can't afford to buy a different
one. However, do you think the 60 HP range is going to do the job??
Mike
(My GlaSar took all my real serious money) But I was seriously pondering
the idea of putting a turbo on the GEO and boost it up to 80 HP.
Anybody?? Anybody??
>From: Ron <captainron1(at)cox.net>
>Reply-To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: The Perfect Engine
>Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2007 9:52:35 -0700
>
>
>In regards to a MkIII....
>what is the best engine power system you feel is the absolute best for a
>Kolb....all things considered?? ======
>
>I doubt anyone would disagree that if you have the budget get a 912 rotax
>or a 914 Rotax. Its as close to plug and play for the Kolb as you can get.
>If you don't or have a wild streak then you have many choices. the next
>best thing IMO and I have been looking is the great plains VW with the
>reduction drive. Its cheaper than the Rotax and has lots of power, maybe
>even more than you will ever need, but its always easy to de-rate an
>engine.
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Mortgage rates near historic lows. Refinance $200,000 loan for as low as
$771/month*
https://www2.nextag.com/goto.jsp?product=100000035&url=%2fst.jsp&tm=y&search=mortgage_text_links_88_h27f8&disc=y&vers=689&s=4056&p=5117
--
kugelair.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: pictures from a kolb |
At 07:00 PM 4/16/2007, you wrote:
>Here are two links to some video I shot yeasterday:
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzEZ11zUjd4
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6meY76aiJc
>
>--------
>John Williamson
Looks pretty dangerous to me - where you gonna land if...?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Perfect Engine |
| Bob Bean has a Turbo 1.0 Suzuki
Ron
Ron:
I think that is Richard Swiderski who is building a Suzuki Turbo for
his Sling Shot.
Bob B has a normally aspirated Suzuki, IIRC.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: pictures from a kolb |
John W:
Was that Possum Kingdom?
Sounds like the old 912ULS is a humming good.
I plan to fly in the morning. Will be first flight for the mkIII in
nearly 8 months. She is sitting there ready.
Good video. I enjoyed the low level recon.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Burning 100LL in the 912 |
| I've seen this advice before: The use of semi-synthetic oil if you
burn
| lots of 100LL in your 912. (Helps suspend the lead from the gas.)
|
| Dennis Kirby
Dennis K:
Full synthetic will not suspend lead. Organic and semi-synthetic
will.
A couple tanks of 100LL probably will not warrant a switch to
semi-synthetic.
There is a percentage published by Rotax on when to change over. I
can not remember it right now. Perhaps Paul Petty can. It was given
to us during the 912 School.
Carbon is not a problem, unless you baby the 912. If you cruise at
5,000 or more, you will blow the carbon out. Lead is the problem.
Marvel Mystery Oil might help keep the plugs clean. I fouled a couple
plugs with 100LL during a 232 hour flight. When I landed, I pulled
them out, took my knife and scraped the lead out of the plug, put them
back in and flew on.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The Perfect Engine |
| what is the best engine power system you feel is the absolute best
for a
| Kolb....all things considered??
| Mike in SW Utah
912UL or 912ULS for the mkIII, Kolbra, and Sling Shot.
My mkIII was powered with a 582 and I put a lot of hours on the
factory mkIII's with 582. Hauled a lot of passengers with 65 hp.
However, the mkIII was built very light, nothing like the weight I
carry around on my mkIII.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: pictures from a kolb |
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot1(at)tx.rr.com> |
That was Lake Whitney.
The Kolb Cavalry is not for the faint of heart!
Will be at lakeland on Thursday.
--------
John Williamson
Arlington, TX
Kolbra, 912ULS
http://home.tx.rr.com/kolbrapilot
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107450#107450
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II trailer.....thumbs |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
I found a few more Firestar trailer pics.
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar
20 years flying it
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Old Ultrastar, Old Pilot but first ultralight, any advice? |
| From: | "Matt Hancuh" <mhancuh(at)msn.com> |
Thanks for the oil and the patch info.
The aircraft last flew a little less than 2 weeks ago, and I'll see what I can
do about finding a GA field that'll let me fly off of it.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107462#107462
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron <captainron1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: The Perfect Engine |
You are right John, I have not seen him round here for a while.
============================
---- John Hauck wrote:
============
| Bob Bean has a Turbo 1.0 Suzuki
Ron
Ron:
I think that is Richard Swiderski who is building a Suzuki Turbo for
his Sling Shot.
Bob B has a normally aspirated Suzuki, IIRC.
john h
mkIII
--
kugelair.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | TNK at Sun and Fun |
Morning Gang:
Talked to Travis yesterday about 1300. Said they were all set up and
ready for Sun and Fun to start this morning.
I plan to depart Gantt International Airport in the morning, arriving
MKIII went back together good. Center section fit like a glove.
Still have to calibrate the tach using the prop tach. I bought a
little RC prop tach a few years ago for about $25.00 that works good
for this job.
Will mechanically sychronize the carbs.
By that time, I will have enough time on the engine to know if
everything is ok to fly.
Got a ton of dirt, dust, and pollen to wash off the old bird. Then I
will be ready to load it and head out for Lakeland in the morning.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: TNK at Sun and Fun |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi John,
When you say mechanically sync the carbs you mean only with the .004 feeler gage?
That just gives you are starting point on each carb to continue the pneumatic part
of the sync process. When you run your engine up to cruise speed the carbs
will try and run each bank of cylinders at different rpms. Even with the cross
over tube that tries to help equalize each side it only helps, but won't make
them equal. Not good for the engine to have one side trying to run at 5000 rpm
and the other at 5050 rpm or worse. Why not take an extra 30 min. and set the
sync during a run? Especially since you are flying long hours for this flight.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107546#107546
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Steve,
There are other countries in the world that use up to 18% ethanol. When I was in
the Rotax class Eric Tucker said not to worry about it unless you were flying
over 8K in altitude because they worried about some phase seperation. The Ethanol
in the USA typically runs between 5.5-10%. He said the amount of alcohol
we have in our fuels have not really caused any problems. Unless you have a lot
of water in the fuel and fly at 10K for extended periods I don't think I would
worry a lot about it.
I wouldn't worry about corrosion unless you knownly have a lot of water in your
fuel or you let it sit without starting it on a regular basis. Regular running
is a key element here and making sure you build up the proper engine temps while
flying.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107548#107548
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The Perfect Engine |
| From: | "Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
<< In regards to a MkIII.... what is the best engine power system you
feel is the absolute best for a Kolb....all things considered?? Mike >>
My vote goes to the 912 for the best-suited engine for a Mark-III. Been
flying my Mark-3 with a 912ul (80 hp) since summer, 2005, and have been
very happy with it. Tried a Verner (also 80 hp) before the 912, but
that didn't work out (reliability issues).
In the mid-90's, Old Kolb advertised that the 912ul (80 hp) was the
biggest engine recommended for the Mark-3, which previously was selling
with mostly 582s. Since then, of course, lot of folks are now flying
'em with the 912S (100 hp) with excellent results. But the 80 hp 912
still gives the airplane plenty of spunk and fun to fly.
I found a used 912 on Barnstormers (under 25 hrs) that I paid $8500 for.
These come up for sale occasionally - you can save quite a bit $ over a
new engine! Took me a weekend to install the 912 ... a truly "plug &
play" engine for the Mark-3, no modifications or quirky installation
tricks needed. (Didja catch that, Big Lar?!)
I've seen lots of replies suggesting the Suzuki (Geo) engines, and
indeed, these are becoming more & more common as homebuilders strive to
find cost-saving four stroke alternatives to the pricy 912 engines.
Although I have heard several favorable reports on the performance of
these engines (with the Raven redrive), a common caveat I also hear is
that the builder must be very mechanically savvy and be willing to
tinker a lot in getting the engine installed & set up properly. As for
me, I prefer the simplicity of a plug and play engine.
The other two 4-stroke alternates that seem to be most popular on the
Mark-3 are the VW-based engines (like Great Plains - but be sure to get
one with a redrive rather than direct drive, as recommended by Rick
Neilsen), and the BMW moto engine. I would've considered either of
these engines if I could not have found a 912 for a good price. Good
luck in your decision process!
Dennis Kirby
Mark-III, 912ul, 65 hrs tt (40 hrs of it on the 912)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Balancing Carbs on a 912 |
| When you say mechanically sync the carbs you mean only with the
.004 feeler gage?
Why not take an extra 30 min. and set the sync during a run?
Especially since you are flying long hours for this flight.
| Roger Lee
Roger:
No, I didn't use a .004" feeler gauge. I used a .030".
Probably take me longer than 30 minutes to balance the carbs with a
vacuum system, since I do not own one.
I don't consider 5 hours to Lakeland a long flight.
I have never balanced my 912 series engines with vacuum gauges.
Maybe, one of these days I will. First, I have to balance my new Warp
Drive.
How about a set of those gauges for my birthday? :-)
I think before I do any more adjusting to the new engine and old
airplane, I will make the flight to Lakeland and back. What I fly on
the trip plus time at Lakeland should give the engine a chance to run
in a bit, along with the new throttle cables.
Thanks for the info. I am a three time happy graduate of the Rotax
912 School. Took me three times to pass it. ;-)
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| I wouldn't worry about corrosion unless you knownly have a lot of
water in your fuel or you let it sit without starting it on a regular
basis. Regular running is a key element here and making sure you build
up the proper engine temps while flying.
|
| --------
| Roger Lee
Roger:
You didn't mention water in the carb fuel bowls.
Based on personal experience, a drop of water in the float bowls for
30 days will create crud, flaking, and lots of corrosion where that
drop of water lives. Doesn't matter if you are flying regularly or
not.
There is a water fence around the main jet well in the float bowl.
This keep water in the bowl, until it can hop over the fence. While
it is in the bowl it is steadily eating away at the pot metal.
One of those little tiny flakes of crap is enough to cause engine
failure. Been there and done that with my 912 and the 912 on the
factory Sling Shot 912.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912 |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi John,
I guarantee you that your carbs then are out of sync. I can send you a picture
of a set of gages that you can make from an auto store for $30-$40. All you need
is 2 vac. gages and, two fittings and some tubing. They will last forever and
once you use it you'll find it's actually quite easy. Just takes a little time,
but well worth it. It isn't good to fly with one set of cylinders fighting
the other side for rpm. I'd be happy to talk you through the first one, too.
This is fairly important. Your plane will be smoother with vibration.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107595#107595
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912 |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi John,
Just a thought. If you have a new engine then this sync step would be a really
important process for a new engine.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107597#107597
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
If you have that kind of an issue with water then you should pop the carb bowl
off once in a while to check them. Why would anyone leave a bowl with water in
it. I live in a dry climate and water is not a problem, but if I lived where
you do then I would check it once in a while and use a water trapping filter to
put fuel into my plane. May not be a cure all, but it couldn't hurt. Install
a float bowl manual drain and drain them every so often then you'll know for
sure.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107598#107598
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912 |
| I guarantee you that your carbs then are out of sync. | Roger Lee
Roger:
Thanks for the info.
Been flying three 912's just like I am flying this one.
Would like to have a nice vacuum set up, one of these days, but for
now I don't have time to mess with it, and don't want to spend the
money. Gotta buy a lot of gas to get to Lakeland, MV, Salt Lake City,
The Rock House, and points West. ;-)
john h
mkIII
912ULS with 15 minutes flight time. Love it!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Welch" <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | I've come to a decision! |
To All the Guys that took the time to give their opinion regarding "The
Perfect Engine"
First of all, thanks!! I really do value your experience and opinion.
Basically, it appears as though most of you recommend the Rotax 912 (UL...at
least). So in other words, at least 80 HP.
As I stated, though, I already have an engine/prop combination. (GEO 3
cyl w/ Raven Redrive)What you have given me is the feeling I would be MUCH
better off with the "Bolt-On Turbo" Jeron, at Raven Redrives, has done all
the "legwork" and fabricating for the turbo to simply bolt right on the 1000
CC 3 cylinder. By putting the turbo on the GEO it will be more like the
912UL than the 582, which is its closest "comparison" right now.
I began building my MkIII back in 1999. ( I got side-tracked!!) I have
had my engine/prop running a few years ago. It really does "kick butt".
But, as I also stated, I never finished actually building the plane. About
all I have left to do is install fabric. And now, since I've let it sit so
long, I have to replace the Lexan, do some paint touch up, etc.
As some of you will recall, when I joined this "Group" about 4 months
ago, I mentioned I am changing my new home A LOT!!! (Yeah, me personally.)
I have hauled 35 dump truck loads of grass, old concrete, and dirt away.
I have been building a swimming pool (I'll finish it this week), poured 50
yards of concrete for my RV parking, (done), poured the foundation for the
airplane shop (20' X 32'). I am within a few days of beginning the
framing on my shop. I anticipate one and a half months to finish the
shop. I said all that to say this; As soon as my shop is
finished I am going to get back to working on my Kolb. Yay!!!
I look forward to seeing many of you at Monument Valley. (I'll be taking
photos of your neat ideas, and incorporating them in my MkIII). I should
be able to get back to working on the MkIII soon after I get back. And
then, I don't have to be a fence hanger anymore!!!
Again, thanks for your input re: the engine. It is evident to me I will
want 80 or so HP for my MkIII.
Mike in SW Utah (with a soon to be
finished shop for my airplanes!!)
_________________________________________________________________
The average US Credit Score is 675. The cost to see yours: $0 by Experian.
http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=660600&bcd=EMAILFOOTERAVERAGE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | BRS for Ultrastar? |
Guys,
I've been offered a BRS from a guy who got it with some estate goods. It's
a BRS-4-UL1, which is all I know (so far). Would that be suitable for my
Ultrastar? Any idea of repack cost?
Supposedly the guy I got my plane from has the BRS from it, but I think
it's a Second Chantz, which I understand can't be repacked?
-Dana
--
--
My software never has bugs. It just develops random features.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sun and Fun 2007 NOTAM |
| From: | "N111KX (Kip)" <n111kx(at)mindspring.com> |
On my only trip to SnF by air a few years ago I had flown 8 hours and arrived from
the SW only to see all powered parachutes in the air only. I held a few miles
out for 45 minutes (the last thing that I wanted to do was fly around). But
the sun was going down so I headed in in between the chutes. I landed and got
cussed out by the Quadrunner Runway Nazi. I told him the chute flight window
was not in the NOTAM and he said that it was [Rolling Eyes]
He did not have time to show me his copy... [Twisted Evil]
Kip
See you there...
--------
Kip
Firestar II (born September 2000)
Atlanta, GA
N111KX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107642#107642
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912 |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Guys,
This is really important.
The mechanical sync only gets you close and down around the idle area. When you
do a mechanical sync you advance the throttle up off the idle stop. You are suppose
to have the cross over tube disconnected. You can hook up your gages on
the tube and the open end of the carb where the tube came off of. The cross over
can only correct so much, it helps, but that's all it can do. It can't correct
when carbs are off very much. You have two carbs that feed two different
cylinders each. That's how the
912 uls makes its Horse power. If one is set different from the other then each
bank of cylinders (left v.s. right) fight each other. This is not a good state
for any engine to be in. I would never run a new engine out of sync. It's just
not good for the moving internal parts to be at war with each other.
The gage set is easy to put together (automotive store and hardware parts) and
the procedure is relatively easy to do if someone talks you through it once. It
might take longer if you only read the manual, but it is easier if someone explains
it to you. Once you do it once or twice you can do a mechanical and pneumatic
sync from start to finish in 40 min.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107644#107644
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912 |
| Just to say, before balancing the carbs hook both gauges to a T
and make
| sure they read the same.
|
| Dan Walter
Hi Dan:
Very, very good point.
Also, to keep in mind, our engine instruments we use on our
ultralights and light planes are not precision. To get wrapped around
the axle trying to get your two or four stroke to comply with an
instrument that is incorrectly calibrated at the factory gets you no
where in a hurry.
john h
mkIII/912ULS (1.5 hours)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
Hi Guys,
FYI
Here in NJ we have up to 10% Ethanol in all grades of auto fuel. Along with
everyone else, I have been concerned about the Ethanol (being laced with
water), causing rust in the bearings and cylinders, etc.
I have just disassembled my Rotax 447 two-stroke engine because it had lost
300 RPM during takeoff. I was happy to find "no evidence of rust" in the
crankshaft/connecting rod/cylinder area. It was all clean and shiny. This
engine has been run infrequently since October 2006 and I did not take any
special steps to prepare it for storage, other than to use the enrichener (choke)
during shutdown. Not the best of care, I must admit.
The cause of the power loss was due to poor piston ring seating. I had
purchased this engine used and it performed OK for awhile, but over time it began
to loose RPM. The cylinder linings had to be honed to renew the cross hatch
and then I installed new rings. The clearances are still within close specs
so I did not have to over bore.
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912 |
| From: | "Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
<< and the procedure is relatively easy to do if someone talks you
through it once. Once you do it once or twice you can do a mechanical
and pneumatic
sync from start to finish in 40 min. Roger Lee, Tucson, Az. >>
Roger -
Will you be at MV in May?
If you are, and if you are able to bring your pneumatic balance kit, I
bet you'd have more than a couple of 912 owners interested in watching
the process. I for one, would volunteer my 912ul for a carb-balance
demo, if you are willing to demonstrate it!
Dennis Kirby
Mark-III, 912ul in
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | re balancing carbs on a 912 |
| Just to say, before balancing the carbs hook both gauges to a T
and make
| sure they read the same.
|
| Dan Walter
When I did mine I went to the airport and borrowed a U shaped piece of
tubing filled with mercury, hooked each end to a carb and adjusted till the
mercury stayed at the same level.( or there about)..
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "henry.voris" <henry_voris(at)yahoo.com> |
Howzit...
I've been lurking this list for a long time. I have avoided posting
for fear for getting hung on someones cross of chocolate bunnies with seafoam
and VGs stuck to painfull parts of my body [Shocked] . This Kolb crowd is
pretty tough. But the gasohol thing has got me going...
If you're worried about water contaminated gasohol carrying moisture
to the innards of your two-stroke engine and rusting the bearings... it ain't
gonna happen. There are plenty of bad things about gasohol but this isn't
one of them.
The ethanol in the gasohol not only attracts water, it forms a little cage around
each water molecule. To get them to separate takes adding another alcohol
and a two step distillation process. Not likely to happen in one's gas tank. Water
bound up with the ethanol will pass through the engine.
The bound up water in the fuel mix left in the crank-case will not be free to
oxidize with the bare metal. However... the ethanol may reduce the ability of
the oil in the mix to protect the bare metal from moisture free in the atmosphere.
The real danger (and it is a DANGER) is phase separation. Using the Hawaiian standard
a 10% ethanol/gas mix... When the water reaches .25% (one quarter of one
percent or, two and a half parts per thousand) at 70 degrees F., the ethanol/water
falls out of solution with the gas. It's heaver than the gas so it forms
a layer at the bottom of your tank. It doesn't burn. Lower the temperature
and phase separation occurs with even less water... So fuel that appears fine
on the ground may suffer phase separation in the colder temperatures of altitude.
You are much more likely to suffer an engine failure from ingesting phase separated
fuel than incur the expense of replacing rusting bearings...
If you live somewhere where all auto fuel has ethanol in it, burn 100LL and learn
to live with the lead (check plugs and for carbon more frequently). If ya
gotta use gasohol install a gascolator so you can catch any problems before they
get to your carburetor (something I need to do myself).
Aloha Nui
Henry
FireFly five charlee-bravo
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107774#107774
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Masqqqqqqq(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 4/18/07 2:39:31 PM Eastern Standard Time,
henry_voris(at)yahoo.com writes:
If ya gotta use gasohol install a gascolator so you can catch any problems
before they get to your carburetor
question about that: If it achieves this phase seperation and gets to
the gascolator, will the water be visible there? Or is it just something I'd
empty and clean on a regular basis.
Further question: does E-85 ethanol, with it's higher ratio of alcohol,
get to this phase seperation state sooner, or later, than 10% gasohol?
Thanks.
Richy
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912 |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Guys,
Here is a picture of a simple carb balance set of gages.
Mine are liquid filled, but they don't have to be. Pick up a set of vacumm gages
from Checker, Pepboys or Auto Zone for $15-$19 each. Some tubing and a couple
of fittings from the hardware store and you are all set. I will be happy to
talk anyone through this if you would like to call me. 520-574-1080 Roger in
Tucson, Az.
Normally I would be happy to come to MV and do carb balancing for whom ever wanted
one, but I have been invited to McMinnville, OR for another Fly-In the weekend
before MV. Then I'm flying on up into Washington for 4 days. This will take
me right up to the MV weekend.
I have people call me all the time for maint. ideas or tips on the 912 and you
all are welcome to call and I will walk you through it or help in some other way.
The three big things that should be addressed on most planes is carb balance (if
they have carbs), prop balance and making sure the prop blades all have the
exact same pitch. These three items are not hard to accomplish. Although you usually
need someone for the prop balance. The other two are very easy. I'm on
other flight forums and we address these items and all understand their importance.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107790#107790
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/carb_sync_1501_127.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "henry.voris" <henry_voris(at)yahoo.com> |
[quote="Masqqqqqqq(at)aol.com"]In a message dated 4/18/07 2:39:31 PM Eastern Standard
Time, henry_voris(at)yahoo.com writes:
> If ya gotta use gasohol install a gascolator so you can catch any problems before
they get to your carburetor
question about that: If it achieves this phase seperation and gets to the
gascolator, will the water be visible there? Or is it just something I'd empty
and clean on a regular basis.
Further question: does E-85 ethanol, with it's higher ratio of alcohol, get
to this phase seperation state sooner, or later, than 10% gasohol?
Thanks.
Richy
See what's free at AOL.com (http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503).
> [b]
Richy,
Yes, the seperation is easy to see... the ethanol/water is clear and there is a
clear boundary between it and the colored fuel floating on top.
In truth if you have a gascolator you should take a squirt into a glass vessel
and look at it real good before each days flying, even if there is no ethanol
in your fuel..
If there is ethanol in the fuel you should drain your fuel completely (float chamber
too) after a day's flying and start the next day with fresh fuel. Gasohol
is OK when it's fresh from the refinery, but the longer it waits around in fuel
cans waiting to be burned the more water it will contain.
Second question... Yes fuel with 15% ethanol will retain more water than fuel with
10% ethanol. At 70 degrees F. a 15% mix can tolerate .5% (one half of one
percent or, 5 parts per thousand) before seperating... A 40% mix will tolerate
a full 2% of water.
Again... fuel can be good in all respects (looks good, burns good) on the ground,
but as soon as you gain altitude and the temprature drops, all bets are off.
Hope that helps...
Aloha
Henry
FireFly five charlee bravo
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107791#107791
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gasohol, gascolators |
>
>Re the gascolators... on my Taylorcraft I had a gascolator with a glass
>bowl, which was nice because I could see what was in it before draining
>it. All the aircraft gascolatars I can find nowadays are all metal, and
>all the automotive or power equipment ones are small and have no
>drain. I'd like to put a glass bowl gascolator-- with a drain-- on my
>Ultrastar, replacing (or supplementing) the inline fuel filter. Anybody
>got any suggestions?
>
Dana,
If you are just interested in seeing if water is dropping out, there is a
small one available for motorcycles that can be purchased from:
http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com
Part # Z90395 - $9.95
In eight years, I have never found water in the Bing float bowl. I drain my
five gallon tank in the spring and the most water I have found is between
the volume of a nickel or a dime. Water does accumulate in my gas cans. I
use four 2.5 gallon gas cans to transfer fuel. I always leave about a cup
of fuel in the cans. This keeps the water in the cans and along with enough
fuel so that when I put in oil, the oil is already some what premixed before
refilling at the gas station. I remove the water from the transfer cans
once a year.
For what it is worth.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Laird" <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912 |
If anyone in the Houston/SE Texas area wants to balance their 912 carbs, I
have a similar set up.
-- Robert
On 4/18/07, Roger Lee wrote:
>
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> Here is a picture of a simple carb balance set of gages.
> Mine are liquid filled, but they don't have to be. Pick up a set of vacumm
> gages from Checker, Pepboys or Auto Zone for $15-$19 each. Some tubing and a
> couple of fittings from the hardware store and you are all set. I will be
> happy to talk anyone through this if you would like to call
> me. 520-574-1080 Roger in Tucson, Az.
>
> Normally I would be happy to come to MV and do carb balancing for whom
> ever wanted one, but I have been invited to McMinnville, OR for another
> Fly-In the weekend before MV. Then I'm flying on up into Washington for 4
> days. This will take me right up to the MV weekend.
> I have people call me all the time for maint. ideas or tips on the 912 and
> you all are welcome to call and I will walk you through it or help in some
> other way.
> The three big things that should be addressed on most planes is carb
> balance (if they have carbs), prop balance and making sure the prop blades
> all have the exact same pitch. These three items are not hard to accomplish.
> Although you usually need someone for the prop balance. The other two are
> very easy. I'm on other flight forums and we address these items and all
> understand their importance.
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107790#107790
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/carb_sync_1501_127.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Graven <gravinus1(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | HELP! N numbering my Xtra? |
Hello, I'm brand new to the sport and have a question
about getting my plane N numbered. I just bought a
xtra that is partially assembled. I doubt that I'll
have the plane done before the end of the year. How
will I be effected by the Jan 31st deadline and what
would be the best course of action for me at this
point?
Any help is greatly appreciated...
Thanks Again, Ben from MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912 |
Yah, despite the uncertainties and questions about the need, I believe in
this 100%, Dennis. I know for an absolute fact that my Baja Bug ran Much
Better after having the dual Weber 44 IDF's on its' 2110cc engine balanced
and tuned. Fuel economy is slightly better, too, tho' I gen'rally drive
with my foot on the floor. It's sooo much fun ! ! ! :-)
Lar.
On 4/18/07, Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL wrote:
>
> Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
>
>
> << and the procedure is relatively easy to do if someone talks you
> through it once. Once you do it once or twice you can do a mechanical
> and pneumatic
> sync from start to finish in 40 min. Roger Lee, Tucson, Az. >>
>
> Roger -
>
> Will you be at MV in May?
>
> If you are, and if you are able to bring your pneumatic balance kit, I
> bet you'd have more than a couple of 912 owners interested in watching
> the process. I for one, would volunteer my 912ul for a carb-balance
> demo, if you are willing to demonstrate it!
>
> Dennis Kirby
> Mark-III, 912ul in
> Cedar Crest, NM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912 |
| From: | Herb Gayheart <herbgh(at)juno.com> |
Roger
How about one gauge? Tee the two vaccuum take off points together and
adj for Zero...? Herb
writes:
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> Here is a picture of a simple carb balance set of gages.
> Mine are liquid filled, but they don't have to be. Pick up a set of
> vacumm gages from Checker, Pepboys or Auto Zone for $15-$19 each.
> Some tubing and a couple of fittings from the hardware store and you
> are all set. I will be happy to talk anyone through this if you
> would like to call me. 520-574-1080 Roger in Tucson, Az.
>
> Normally I would be happy to come to MV and do carb balancing for
> whom ever wanted one, but I have been invited to McMinnville, OR for
> another Fly-In the weekend before MV. Then I'm flying on up into
> Washington for 4 days. This will take me right up to the MV
> weekend.
> I have people call me all the time for maint. ideas or tips on the
> 912 and you all are welcome to call and I will walk you through it
> or help in some other way.
> The three big things that should be addressed on most planes is carb
> balance (if they have carbs), prop balance and making sure the prop
> blades all have the exact same pitch. These three items are not hard
> to accomplish. Although you usually need someone for the prop
> balance. The other two are very easy. I'm on other flight forums and
> we address these items and all understand their importance.
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107790#107790
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/carb_sync_1501_127.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Laird" <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gasohol, gascolators |
Lar --
Is this the one:
http://reddenmarine.com/site/new-detail.cfm?id=RAC215R2
-- Robert
On 4/18/07, Larry Bourne wrote:
>
> This subject came up a bit ago, and I'll repeat my comment from then - I
> have a Racor marine fuel filter/separator on my boat that has a replaceable
> filter element (like a standard oil filter) and a plastic (I think
> polycarbonate, but not certain) see-thru bowl. Easy to see water in the
> fuel, easy to change, not too expensive, and not too large. I got it
> because I was fishing in Baja and buying gas down there. Never did have a
> problem, but it's nice to be sure. Important on the water, more important
> on Mexican water, and really important in the air.
> Lar.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Swartz" <terry(at)juliaswartz.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912 |
How about a long loop of clear tubing with a little water inside. That is
how I tuned mine a few years ago as per Dennis's suggestion.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Herb Gayheart
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 6:24 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912
Roger
How about one gauge? Tee the two vaccuum take off points together and
adj for Zero...? Herb
writes:
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> Here is a picture of a simple carb balance set of gages.
> Mine are liquid filled, but they don't have to be. Pick up a set of
> vacumm gages from Checker, Pepboys or Auto Zone for $15-$19 each.
> Some tubing and a couple of fittings from the hardware store and you
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912 |
| From: | Herb Gayheart <herbgh(at)juno.com> |
I think I hit the send button before I got my mind in gear.. One gauge
won't work as I described it.. One gauge should work other wise.. one
side at a time. Watch the tach. Herb
writes:
>
>
> How about a long loop of clear tubing with a little water inside.
> That is
> how I tuned mine a few years ago as per Dennis's suggestion.
>
> Terry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Herb
> Gayheart
> Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 6:24 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912
>
>
> Roger
>
> How about one gauge? Tee the two vaccuum take off points together
> and
> adj for Zero...? Herb
>
> writes:
>
> >
> > Hi Guys,
> >
> > Here is a picture of a simple carb balance set of gages.
> > Mine are liquid filled, but they don't have to be. Pick up a set
> of
> > vacumm gages from Checker, Pepboys or Auto Zone for $15-$19 each.
>
> > Some tubing and a couple of fittings from the hardware store and
> you
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gasohol, gascolators |
At 07:07 PM 4/18/2007, Jack B. Hart wrote:
>If you are just interested in seeing if water is dropping out, there is a
>small one available for motorcycles that can be purchased from:
>
>http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com
>
>Part # Z90395 - $9.95
Problem with that one (like the tractor parts) is no drain, unless you
remove the bowl each time... messy. The aircraft gascolator on my T-Craft
had a glass tube between a metal top and bottom, with the drain in the bottom.
-Dana
--
--
My software never has bugs. It just develops random features.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912 |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Guys,
You need two gages because you need to compare the two at the same time so you
can set the needles to the same on both. Makes your life a 100% easier.
A water column type gage will work provided that everything is 100%equal on both
sides. The water column works it's just a crude way to do it. If you are off
on one side or the other then you will not be able to balance the carbs. Why
go through the trouble of trying to make everything that precise when you can
pick up a gage for $15 and be done with it?
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107823#107823
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gasohol, gascolators |
Perty close, Robert, but that one's for a diesel. Mine has a smaller filter
section, and a larger, blue colored bowl. The whole thing's a little bigger
than my fist. Lar.
On 4/18/07, Robert Laird wrote:
>
> Lar --
>
> Is this the one:
>
> http://reddenmarine.com/site/new-detail.cfm?id=RAC215R2
>
> -- Robert
>
> On 4/18/07, Larry Bourne wrote:
> >
> > This subject came up a bit ago, and I'll repeat my comment from then - I
> > have a Racor marine fuel filter/separator on my boat that has a replaceable
> > filter element (like a standard oil filter) and a plastic (I think
> > polycarbonate, but not certain) see-thru bowl. Easy to see water in the
> > fuel, easy to change, not too expensive, and not too large. I got it
> > because I was fishing in Baja and buying gas down there. Never did have a
> > problem, but it's nice to be sure. Important on the water, more important
> > on Mexican water, and really important in the air.
> > Lar.
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Petty" <paulpetty(at)myway.com> |
Gang,
LONG day for Paul P. Woke up at 1:00am CDST and drove 1.5 hrs climbed in the King
air E90 and wheels up at 3:50am and got home with red face and wobbly legs
at 9:30pm CDST. I got to visit with Mark G., Travis,Donnie,Brian,Steve B. Bruce
and the welder of TNK that his name escapes me at the moment. Met another Kolbra
builder #16 of Daytona Fl. he just as I had MANY MANY questions about how
did you do this, how did you do that.....and furthermore WHY !!! I really hate
I missed my buddy John H and felow kolbra pilot John W but we were on a tight
schedule. Hope we didint saw John H in half on departure as there were airplanes
EVERWHERE! We came within I'd say 100 yards of a rockwell comander that we
caught up with less than the 3 mile straight out rule who decided to make his
turn a bit early. Was interesting none the less. It was a fun/hot/windy/expensive/tireing
day but loved it. Kinda neat siting in a group of guys talking about
my Kolb all the way up to 2.5 million dollar aircraft but to be honest...
the Kolb factory firestar stole everyones heart Once again!
When we got out of the KAe90 and the multi mil owner who i had spent an hour next
to explaining the history and design of Kolb aircraft to...he said LOOK there
is a kolb in the patteren and he is waxing everything!
I wonder how many hours that firefly has on it?
Point....Last time for me was S-N-F 2003 there were hundreds of PPC's and Trikes.
Today there were only 2 PPC's maybe 10 boths for PPC PPG-1 in the UL area.
It was only the second day of the show but a lot less of the PPC's and no PPG's
flying. wind was high but the little Kolb firefly was in the air the whole time
al day!
Go Homer!
sorry for typos bla bla but i have been up 22 hrs today and drove 3 hrs flew 5
hrs and walked god knows how many miles!
take care
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
Final assembly!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107852#107852
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HELP! N numbering my Xtra? |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
There is no deadline for experiemental amateur built. Planes can still be built
and N numbered after 2008.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107857#107857
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lexan Wing Gap Seal |
| From: | "John H Murphy" <jhm9812(at)yahoo.com> |
Is there any issues with regards to flight performance when the Wing gap seal is
not used?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107860#107860
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gasohol, gascolators |
Just saw a really small gascolator at SnF. It was on a new version of an
Easy Riser.
BTW, got to see John Moody fly an original Riser late yesterday in 25 mph
winds.
The gascolator was available from Briggs and Stratton at a mower store.
Steve
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne T. McCullough" <blackbird754(at)alltel.net> |
Paul,
Thanks for the info, and I sure am watching the list and all of the pics
close...couldn't make sun-n-fun this year..............
Wayne McCullough
Kolbra 004
Springfield, Georgia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Petty" <paulpetty(at)myway.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 12:03 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Lakeland
>
> Gang,
> LONG day for Paul P. Woke up at 1:00am CDST and drove 1.5 hrs climbed in
> the King air E90 and wheels up at 3:50am and got home with red face and
> wobbly legs at 9:30pm CDST. I got to visit with Mark G.,
> Travis,Donnie,Brian,Steve B. Bruce and the welder of TNK that his name
> escapes me at the moment. Met another Kolbra builder #16 of Daytona Fl. he
> just as I had MANY MANY questions about how did you do this, how did you
> do that.....and furthermore WHY !!! I really hate I missed my buddy John H
> and felow kolbra pilot John W but we were on a tight schedule. Hope we
> didint saw John H in half on departure as there were airplanes EVERWHERE!
> We came within I'd say 100 yards of a rockwell comander that we caught up
> with less than the 3 mile straight out rule who decided to make his turn a
> bit early. Was interesting none the less. It was a
> fun/hot/windy/expensive/tireing day but loved it. Kinda neat siting in a
> group of guys talking about my Kolb all the way up to 2.5 million dollar
> ai!
> rcraft but to be honest... the Kolb factory firestar stole everyones heart
> Once again!
> When we got out of the KAe90 and the multi mil owner who i had spent an
> hour next to explaining the history and design of Kolb aircraft to...he
> said LOOK there is a kolb in the patteren and he is waxing everything!
>
> I wonder how many hours that firefly has on it?
>
> Point....Last time for me was S-N-F 2003 there were hundreds of PPC's and
> Trikes. Today there were only 2 PPC's maybe 10 boths for PPC PPG-1 in the
> UL area. It was only the second day of the show but a lot less of the
> PPC's and no PPG's flying. wind was high but the little Kolb firefly was
> in the air the whole time al day!
>
> Go Homer!
>
> sorry for typos bla bla but i have been up 22 hrs today and drove 3 hrs
> flew 5 hrs and walked god knows how many miles!
>
> take care
>
> --------
> Paul Petty
> Kolbra #12
> Ms Dixie
> Final assembly!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107852#107852
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912 |
>
>I think I hit the send button before I got my mind in gear.. One gauge
>won't work as I described it.. One gauge should work other wise.. one
>side at a time. Watch the tach. Herb
>
Herb,
There are differential air gages that show zero at center scale. They are a
little pricey. The advantage is that only one gage would be required, and
you do not have to worry about accuracy between two gages.
Magnehelic makes them.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912 |
| From: | Herb Gayheart <herbgh(at)juno.com> |
Jack
Yep. Used them in the computer industry..
My thought that we could use one , teed off of both carbs would not
work.. obviously one could work on an engine at any stable rpm.. Home
made water manometer also.. Herb
writes:
>
>
> >
> >I think I hit the send button before I got my mind in gear.. One
> gauge
> >won't work as I described it.. One gauge should work other wise..
> one
> >side at a time. Watch the tach. Herb
> >
>
> Herb,
>
> There are differential air gages that show zero at center scale.
> They are a
> little pricey. The advantage is that only one gage would be
> required, and
> you do not have to worry about accuracy between two gages.
>
> Magnehelic makes them.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Winchester, IN
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firestar lift struts |
| From: | Herb Gayheart <herbgh(at)juno.com> |
Nuther subject..
I am building a set of single lift strut wings for my Firefly..
finally getting my butt in gear after a long and hard winter..
Question: what dia and wall thickness are the lift struts on a
Firestar.. older , single seat model would be fine... Herb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gasohol, gascolators |
Just saw a really small gascolator at SnF. It was on a new version of
an Easy Riser.
BTW, got to see John Moody fly an original Riser late yesterday in 25
mph winds.
The gascolator was available from Briggs and Stratton at a mower
store.
Steve
Steve,
Did it have a sump drain and glass bowel?
Denny Rowe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 912 Throttle Cable Failure |
| From: | "Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
Kolb Friends -
This morning, when flying my Mark-III, I experienced a broken throttle
cable on the 912ul engine. This awarded me the opportunity to execute
my FIRST dead stick landing in my Kolb. I'm happy to report the landing
was uneventful.
I had been flying for about 15 minutes; I was about 3 miles from my home
field. I wanted to look at something in a field, so I descended and
retarded the throttle to get a bit closer. At about 100 feet AGL I felt
a snap in the throttle lever and the mighty 912 went to full throttle.
I knew exactly what had happened: the throttle cable had broken
somewhere, and the 912 series engines are designed to go to full
throttle if this happens. Flew back to my airport, entered the pattern
(still at 100%), established a downwind at 1000 AGL, then flipped the
magneto switches to "off."
What a rush.
All your senses are screaming at you in alarm, in the very unfamiliar
silence. I pegged my glide rate at 55 mph, and the airplane felt very
stable. What I also realized was, this Mark-III was descending more
steeply than my usual power-off (idle) approach. Obviously, the stopped
prop creates more drag than an idling engine, for my setup anyway. I
used half flaps for landing, but would have been better off if I had
used none.
I announced to the traffic pattern my situation - that I was dead stick
and headed for THAT runway. (I even got to say "mayday" on the radio.)
After landing, I had to push my 650 lbs of airplane a half mile back to
the hangar. (Whew - good workout!) But WAY better'n being stuck out
somewhere, if I had been forced to land because of carburetors that
spring to idle.
I disassembled the throttle splitter tube and confirmed that the cable
had indeed separated from the splitter assembly. The tiny brass ferrule
that is soldered to the end of the cable (this is what keeps it seated
in the splitter slider) had pulled off. I had soldered this ferrule on
during construction. It was my own workmanship that failed here,
nothing the fault of the Rotax.
After discussing the details with the local A&P at my airport, he
concluded that is was likely a cold solder that caused it to let loose.
His advice was to get a hotter soldering iron (or flame), tin the
braided strands well before flowing the solder in. Even if you are
using solder with flux in it, still apply flux to the braided cable
before you touch it with the solder.
It is fascinating to me how the mechanical failure of a part the size of
an uncooked grain of rice can put you on the ground.
And the 912ul fail-safe design of the carb setup got me home safe. I
love this little engine.
Lesson here is: Give appropriate attention to even the LITTLE details
during your building process. That tiny little brass ferrule needs to
be soldered correctly for it to do it's job.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-III, 912ul, 66.6 hrs on the Hobbs when I took off, this flight, in
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 Throttle Cable Failure |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Dennis, I'm happy to hear that everything turned out fine and that you landed that
bird without incident.
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar
20 years flying it
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107932#107932
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lexan Wing Gap Seal |
| From: | "olendorf" <olendorf(at)gmail.com> |
If you mean the gap seal over your head (between the wings ) then DO NOT fly without
that. I tried that on my Firestar and the stall speed went up to about
43mph (normally 30) and the max airspeed I could get with a 377 was about 53mph
(normally 65). Not much room in there to play with.
Do not do it. [Shocked]
--------
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 447, Powerfin prop
Schenectady, NY
http://KolbFirestar.googlepages.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107940#107940
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 Throttle Cable Failure |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Dennis,
Glad everything went ok after the break.
This is why I think everyone should go up and turn the engine off while in control
and practice dead sticks. They are really easy as you now know first hand.
It gves you new confidence that if something happens it's really not a high stress
issue, but only a landing one.
All cable ends that get pulled on or have stress should be a hot solder, but a
word of caution, do not over heat or apply too much heat too long. It will cause
your cable to become brittle. Just enough heat to cause the flux to flow and
the solder to flow and then remove the heat. One time when I was doing a hot
solder on a cable I did not like my solder joint at the cable end. I applied
heat too long. When I went to check on the cable strength and flexibilty it snapped
just behind the new solder. Too much heat, i.e. from a torch, will cause
a cable failure. You can use the torch, but no more heat than necessary to melt
the solder.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107946#107946
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | 912 Throttle Cable Failure |
>>>>>>>>> I pegged my glide rate at 55 mph, and the airplane felt very
stable.>>>>>>>>>>>>
if solo I think you did well..... with 2 on board,,, keep it in the 65 to
70 range.... ask me how I know.....
better yet,,, take up a passenger,,,, while at 65 to 70, pull the
throttle to idle, adjust your glide to maintain your speed, then very
slowly adjust your glide to slow your speed... you will find a speed where
you start to feel that you don't have enough elevator authority.... if you
ever have to dead stick with a passenger,,,,, stay well above that speed.
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Throttle Cable Failure |
Good on you, Dennis. It sounds like you handled it real well. I've done a
lot of soldering and silver soldering in the course of my work, and I've
seen both cold solder joints, and overheated connections, as was mentioned
in another post. Many times now, or even most times, I'll tin each
component separately and very carefully, then put them in position and heat
them lightly. Make sure you use the correct flux - some can cause
corrosion. When the solder flows, it melts together, and you're done - get
the heat off it. The advantage to this, especially with different sized
components to be soldered, it makes sure both are properly tinned, whereas
if you put them together and solder them, quite often the larger component
doesn't receive enuf heat and you'll have a cold solder joint. If it does
get enuf heat, quite often that will overheat the smaller and burn the
flux....then nothing will stick and you'll have an awful time cleaning it up
again for another try. Again, as was said, too much heat is as bad as not
enuf. Lar.
On 4/19/07, Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL wrote:
>
> Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
>
>
> Kolb Friends -
>
> This morning, when flying my Mark-III, I experienced a broken throttle
> cable on the 912ul engine. This awarded me the opportunity to execute
> my FIRST dead stick landing in my Kolb. I'm happy to report the landing
> was uneventful.
>
> I had been flying for about 15 minutes; I was about 3 miles from my home
> field. I wanted to look at something in a field, so I descended and
> retarded the throttle to get a bit closer. At about 100 feet AGL I felt
> a snap in the throttle lever and the mighty 912 went to full throttle.
>
> I knew exactly what had happened: the throttle cable had broken
> somewhere, and the 912 series engines are designed to go to full
> throttle if this happens. Flew back to my airport, entered the pattern
> (still at 100%), established a downwind at 1000 AGL, then flipped the
> magneto switches to "off."
>
> What a rush.
>
> All your senses are screaming at you in alarm, in the very unfamiliar
> silence. I pegged my glide rate at 55 mph, and the airplane felt very
> stable. What I also realized was, this Mark-III was descending more
> steeply than my usual power-off (idle) approach. Obviously, the stopped
> prop creates more drag than an idling engine, for my setup anyway. I
> used half flaps for landing, but would have been better off if I had
> used none.
>
> I announced to the traffic pattern my situation - that I was dead stick
> and headed for THAT runway. (I even got to say "mayday" on the radio.)
>
> After landing, I had to push my 650 lbs of airplane a half mile back to
> the hangar. (Whew - good workout!) But WAY better'n being stuck out
> somewhere, if I had been forced to land because of carburetors that
> spring to idle.
>
> I disassembled the throttle splitter tube and confirmed that the cable
> had indeed separated from the splitter assembly. The tiny brass ferrule
> that is soldered to the end of the cable (this is what keeps it seated
> in the splitter slider) had pulled off. I had soldered this ferrule on
> during construction. It was my own workmanship that failed here,
> nothing the fault of the Rotax.
>
> After discussing the details with the local A&P at my airport, he
> concluded that is was likely a cold solder that caused it to let loose.
> His advice was to get a hotter soldering iron (or flame), tin the
> braided strands well before flowing the solder in. Even if you are
> using solder with flux in it, still apply flux to the braided cable
> before you touch it with the solder.
>
> It is fascinating to me how the mechanical failure of a part the size of
> an uncooked grain of rice can put you on the ground.
>
> And the 912ul fail-safe design of the carb setup got me home safe. I
> love this little engine.
>
> Lesson here is: Give appropriate attention to even the LITTLE details
> during your building process. That tiny little brass ferrule needs to
> be soldered correctly for it to do it's job.
>
> Dennis Kirby
> Mark-III, 912ul, 66.6 hrs on the Hobbs when I took off, this flight, in
> Cedar Crest, NM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Ledbetter <gdledbetter(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | BRS repack information |
Returned from Florida to Cincinnati and the weather immediately
turned cold and wet and windy.
Shut the Firefly down on November 11. Shut down with fogging oil and
added fogging oil to cylinders. Added stabilizer to the fuel and
covered carb and muffler openings
Removed parachute to sent to to BRS for repack. Was very
reasonable. As I recall, it was under $200. When parachute
returned, it came with a new label that said it was only good to
06/08. I called and asked about the short life and he told me that
two years was all a repack was good for unless the chute was
protected and didn't get wet. I told him that my Firefly was hangar
or trailer housed and had never been wet. So he send a new label
with 06/12 as the expiration date. If you are sending your chute to
BRS and it's a soft pack, be sure to tell them that it doesn't get
wet if you want the 6 year repack life
The weather finally got warm this week and I was finally able to get
back into the air on Tuesday. It was glorious. Installed new
plugs. The engine started on the first pull and I used 5 gallons of
the old stabilized fuel without a problem.
Life is good.
Gene Ledbetter
Firefly, new 447, IVO 2 blade, 350 hrs,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Throttle Cable Failure |
I personally would never use a torch to solder a cable. Too risky. It
doesn't take much flame to compromise a cable.
I use a small solder pot I made out of a half inch nut with the one
end welded shut. Heat the nut with torch and fill half full of
solder, flux the cable end and ferrule. Dip ferrule half way into the
molten solder and watch for solder to seep up into the cable strands
above the ferrule, remove and let cool.
Never had one come loose ,,,,,,,, yet.
Gene
On Apr 19, 2007, at 4:06 PM, Roger Lee wrote:
>
> Hi Dennis,
>
> Glad everything went ok after the break.
> This is why I think everyone should go up and turn the engine off
> while in control and practice dead sticks. They are really easy as
> you now know first hand. It gves you new confidence that if
> something happens it's really not a high stress issue, but only a
> landing one.
>
> All cable ends that get pulled on or have stress should be a hot
> solder, but a word of caution, do not over heat or apply too much
> heat too long. It will cause your cable to become brittle. Just
> enough heat to cause the flux to flow and the solder to flow and
> then remove the heat. One time when I was doing a hot solder on a
> cable I did not like my solder joint at the cable end. I applied
> heat too long. When I went to check on the cable strength and
> flexibilty it snapped just behind the new solder. Too much heat,
> i.e. from a torch, will cause a cable failure. You can use the
> torch, but no more heat than necessary to melt the solder.
>
> --------
> Roger Lee
> Tucson, Az.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=107946#107946
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Throttle Cable Failure |
At 03:41 PM 4/19/2007, Paul Petty wrote:
>I know alot of things go through ones mind and Im by no means saying what
>I would have done. But monday morning quarter backing I would have called
>the "mayday" or anounced my situation to the ground and or traffic and
>went WAY out and called "straight in" everybody get the hell out of my way!
My take is that one only calls "Mayday" in a dire emergency, when you need
assistance (whether advice or traffic control) from somebody on the
ground. Not that it hurts... and announcing your situation and intentions
as Dennis is definitely a good thing. Of course at a controlled airport
it's a different thing... "Tower, Kolb one two three kilo is declaring an
emergency..."
I don't agree about the straight in, though. It gives you far fewer
options for adjusting your glide once the engine is stopped. A normal
pattern and approach gives much better control, with the option to widen or
shorten the legs as appropriate.
I had a similar problem years ago in my T-Craft; a pin fell out of the
throttle linkage and left the engine stuck just below the minimum power for
level flight. I was able to make a long slow descent back to the nearest
airport, and made the landing by "blipping" the ignition like a WWI rotary
engined airplane. Of course the prop on a Continental will keep spinning
unless you fly REAL slow and stall the plane, so switching on the ignition
starts it right up again.
-Dana
--
--
My software never has bugs. It just develops random features.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gasohol, gascolators |
In a message dated 4/19/2007 9:44:40 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rowedenny(at)windstream.net writes:
Steve,
Did it have a sump drain and glass bowel?
Denny Rowe
yup
steve
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar lift struts |
In a message dated 4/19/2007 9:34:56 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
herbgh(at)juno.com writes:
Question: what dia and wall thickness are the lift struts on a
Firestar.. older , single seat model would be fine
Herb,
Here are the dimensions of the early Original FireStar model:
Strut = 2024-T3 Alum Tube 1-1/4" OD X .058" wall, with length to be
determined at assembly.
Internal Sleeve = 2024-T3 Alum Tube 1-1/8" OD X .058" wall X 36" long.
Internal sleeve is to be centered in the strut and held in place with one
1/8" X 1/8" rivet. It is important to place the rivet 41-1/2" from the top end
of the strut AND the rivet head toward the rear (or trailing edge) of the
strut.
Lift strut fittings are attached to each end of the strut with 1/8" X 1/2"
rivets. 5 rows of 5 rivets per row, spaced evenly around the circumference of
the tube.
Hope this helps.
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Key" <dhkey(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | 912 Throttle Cable Failure |
glad you're not hurt and your bird isn't.
same thing happend to me with a passenger, uneventful.
I was kinda far from my home airport and really wanted to get back there to
do the repair so I just flew it wide open, the tail boom started to shake
sometime after VNE so I angled up some to keep it slowed down a little.
Ended up at 6k over my home airport had plenty of time to figure it out how
to land it. Soon as the engine went off I think I only took one breath of
air the whole way down.
They dont fly like a sailplane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)AOL.com |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Throttle Cable Failure |
In a message dated 4/19/2007 1:56:06 PM Central Standard Time,
Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil writes:
>
> Lesson here is: Give appropriate attention to even the LITTLE details
> during your building process. That tiny little brass ferrule needs to
> be soldered correctly for it to do it's job.
>
> Dennis Kirby
> Mark-III, 912ul, 66.6 hrs on the Hobbs when I took off, this flight, in
> Cedar Crest, NM
>
> Dennis,
> Good to hear a post with a good ending! Keeping your head is a big factor,
> when there is a malfunction. Wish I had a way to get my Firefly to go wide
> open if the throttle cable broke. It is quite exciting to have the engine go
> that choice has to be made QUICK !
Ed Diebel
**************************************
See
what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug Wetzel" <dougwe(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Kolb-related news story on KSL tonight |
KSL TV carried this story tonight - not just an ultralight segment, but a
positive one as well...what model Kolb is this fellow flying?
http://www.ksl.com/?nid=148&sid=1124968
See you all at MV.
Doug Wetzel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Bass" <gtb(at)commspeed.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-related story on KSL tonight |
That clip from the KSL.com website is of the very
famous photographer, Adriel Heisey, who also has
several "coffee table" books in print that are truly
awesome to see. His captures of the terrain and
landscapes (many of which are unique in perspective)
are just further inspiration for all of us to fly.
I was fortunate to meet him at the Pilot's Rest airstrip
in Paulden, Az after Dave Pelletier graciously invited
me there when he and Adriel were going to share the
sky one day.
As all who remember Dave will attest, he was very
willing to help and assist anyone interested in any
aspect of flight, and I had mentioned that I had one of
Adriel's books. Adriel was kind enough to sign it.
This was a very special day for me, and one that I
remember with a heavy heart, due to Dave's passing.
Please do yourselves a favor and have a look at Adriel's
excellent work. I believe that he flies an older model
of the Kolb Classic. Maybe a Mark II. He designed &
built a unique "pod" for the area that used to be the 2nd
seat, and it houses all of his camera equipment, & the
lenses, etc. for his work. He is also a real neat guy
to speak with.
George
PS: Thanks for relighting the memories.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Best source for Pennzoil 2 Stroke oil |
| From: | "John H Murphy" <jhm9812(at)yahoo.com> |
I've been buying my 2 stroke oil from CPS. There must be a better source for buying
2 stroke oil. I tried K-Mart & Target last night. No luck.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108079#108079
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Throttle Cable Failure |
CPS sells replacement brass ferrules, and here is how to guarantee the wire
will not pull through. One end of the ferrule is countersunk, the other is
square cut, apparently to make it easier to slip over the cable. Slip the
ferrule on the wire backwards so that the countersunk end is toward the end
of the cable. Now take an Xacto knife and rat tail the exposed end of the
cable. Pull the cable down into the ferrule a bit until it starts to bind,
if it is rat tailed really bad, it can't go through. You ought to have about
1/16" sticking out. Now solder it, the solder will lock the splayed rat
tailed ends in place in the countersink, make it solid so that it cannot
compress, and now you have a cable end that is too big to fit through the
countersunk end of the ferrule, in addition to the solder joint itself.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 2:54 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: 912 Throttle Cable Failure
>
>
>
> Kolb Friends -
>
> This morning, when flying my Mark-III, I experienced a broken throttle
> cable on the 912ul engine. This awarded me the opportunity to execute
> my FIRST dead stick landing in my Kolb. I'm happy to report the landing
> was uneventful.
>
> I had been flying for about 15 minutes; I was about 3 miles from my home
> field. I wanted to look at something in a field, so I descended and
> retarded the throttle to get a bit closer. At about 100 feet AGL I felt
> a snap in the throttle lever and the mighty 912 went to full throttle.
>
> I knew exactly what had happened: the throttle cable had broken
> somewhere, and the 912 series engines are designed to go to full
> throttle if this happens. Flew back to my airport, entered the pattern
> (still at 100%), established a downwind at 1000 AGL, then flipped the
> magneto switches to "off."
>
> What a rush.
>
> All your senses are screaming at you in alarm, in the very unfamiliar
> silence. I pegged my glide rate at 55 mph, and the airplane felt very
> stable. What I also realized was, this Mark-III was descending more
> steeply than my usual power-off (idle) approach. Obviously, the stopped
> prop creates more drag than an idling engine, for my setup anyway. I
> used half flaps for landing, but would have been better off if I had
> used none.
>
> I announced to the traffic pattern my situation - that I was dead stick
> and headed for THAT runway. (I even got to say "mayday" on the radio.)
>
> After landing, I had to push my 650 lbs of airplane a half mile back to
> the hangar. (Whew - good workout!) But WAY better'n being stuck out
> somewhere, if I had been forced to land because of carburetors that
> spring to idle.
>
> I disassembled the throttle splitter tube and confirmed that the cable
> had indeed separated from the splitter assembly. The tiny brass ferrule
> that is soldered to the end of the cable (this is what keeps it seated
> in the splitter slider) had pulled off. I had soldered this ferrule on
> during construction. It was my own workmanship that failed here,
> nothing the fault of the Rotax.
>
> After discussing the details with the local A&P at my airport, he
> concluded that is was likely a cold solder that caused it to let loose.
> His advice was to get a hotter soldering iron (or flame), tin the
> braided strands well before flowing the solder in. Even if you are
> using solder with flux in it, still apply flux to the braided cable
> before you touch it with the solder.
>
> It is fascinating to me how the mechanical failure of a part the size of
> an uncooked grain of rice can put you on the ground.
>
> And the 912ul fail-safe design of the carb setup got me home safe. I
> love this little engine.
>
> Lesson here is: Give appropriate attention to even the LITTLE details
> during your building process. That tiny little brass ferrule needs to
> be soldered correctly for it to do it's job.
>
> Dennis Kirby
> Mark-III, 912ul, 66.6 hrs on the Hobbs when I took off, this flight, in
> Cedar Crest, NM
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Best source for Pennzoil 2 Stroke oil |
Use the Yellow pages and call around town looking for a Pennzoil
distributor. I found one locally (in Spokane WA). Ask for the Penzoil
4130 (2 stroke air-cooled engines, pints). Last Summer it was $36/case of
24 pints, plus tax. I paid $38.47 two weeks ago.
I've been buying my 2 stroke oil from CPS. There must be a better source
for buying 2 stroke oil. I tried K-Mart & Target last night. No luck.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar lift struts |
In a message dated 4/20/2007 12:26:56 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
herbgh(at)juno.com writes:
I hoped that they were 6061 t6 since I have quite an assortment of that
Herb,
Just for your information, the specification of 2024-T3 which I gave you was
taken directly from the plans and material packing list. I agree, it would
be best to ask someone at Kolb.
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Best source for Pennzoil 2 Stroke oil |
At 10:22 AM 4/20/2007, John H Murphy wrote:
>
>I've been buying my 2 stroke oil from CPS. There must be a better source
>for buying 2 stroke oil. I tried K-Mart & Target last night. No luck.
I bought a few cases from Lockwood, until I found it at the local Advance
Auto Parts. Advance only has 8oz bottles, though... fine for my PPG but
now that I have a Kolb I'll have to look for other options.
-Dana
--
--
My software never has bugs. It just develops random features.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 Throttle Cable Failure |
| From: | "Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
<< Just curious, did you turn L/R base then L/R final with no power? If
you chopped the power as you beaked the numbers how well did she glide
in the 180? Paul P. >>
Paul, and All -
While I still had power, I positioned my Mark-III into the exact spot in
the traffic pattern that I usually fly it, when under power. At 1000'
AGL and abeam the numbers on a downwind leg, I cut the mags.
>From this point, on a normal approach with power pulled back to near
idle, my plane would continue on downwind another half minute, then turn
base & final, and touch down on the last third of the mile-long runway.
Dead stick, I barely made it to the first third of the runway.
Dennis Kirby
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 Throttle Cable Failure |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Guys,
There are many reasons for an engine out. We have broached this subject once before
to practice real engine out dead sticks. The Kolb under idle lands differently
from a full engine out. The glide on a full engine out is shorter. Best
way to practice so you can be comfortable with them is to be on final and know
you absolutely have the runway. Reach up and kill the engine. You are now no
different from a glider pilot. Keep up your speed, maybe add 5 mph, fly it to
the runway and land. It handles very well and there are no suprises. Land it like
you always do. When I practiced mine in the Mark III I would come in at 65
mph no flaps, with 20 flaps I would come in at 55 mph. Go up a few thousand
feet and glide around a while just to get comfortable and relaxed. Pretty soon
you will think this is fun. You sure won't worry if the engine quits so long
as you have a landing site in range. Glider pilots glide and land all the time,
I don't know why so many power plant pilots panic and crash when the engine
quits. Ahhhh, could it be they never practiced or tried these. The time to practice
is before you have a real problem.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108177#108177
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-related news story on KSL tonight |
| From: | "grabo172" <grabo172(at)sc.rr.com> |
OK...
Can anyone tell me how he gets past the limitation on E-AB and E-LSA Operating
Limitations that say the aircraft can't be used for commercial purposes?
I ask, because I'm an aerial photographer, and legally, I can't use my Firestar
as a photo platform if I'm going to sell the photos as part of a business. I
did many weeks of research and calling the FSDO and everything to see if I could
use it... the final answer was... NO
I would LOVE to be able to use my Firestar instead of having to rent a 172 everytime
I go on a photoshoot. Not only to save money ($9/hour vs $165/hour), but
it is a MUCH better photo platform.
So any ideas on how he can do it legally, or is he just doing it illeagally?
--------
-Erik Grabowski
Kolb Firestar N197BG
CFI/CFII/LS-I
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108179#108179
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Throttle Cable Failure |
You make me think of the wire rope chokers we used when skidding logs in
Idaho. For on the spot repairs we'd use a cutter and sledgehammer to trim
the end of the wire rope square, slip the ferrule over it, then spread the
strands as you say, but carefully, so's not to frazzle them. Then we'd
insert a tapered, grooved 2 piece plug into the end of the wire rope and
pull the ferrule back down over it. Smack it tight a few times with a
hammer and go use it. Never, ever saw one slip, and they took enormous
impacts and loads. I wonder if such a thing would be feasible for the
smaller wire ?? It's the same construction, just a different
scale. Lar.
On 4/20/07, Richard Pike wrote:
>
>
> CPS sells replacement brass ferrules, and here is how to guarantee the
> wire
> will not pull through. One end of the ferrule is countersunk, the other is
> square cut, apparently to make it easier to slip over the cable. Slip the
> ferrule on the wire backwards so that the countersunk end is toward the
> end
> of the cable. Now take an Xacto knife and rat tail the exposed end of the
> cable. Pull the cable down into the ferrule a bit until it starts to bind,
> if it is rat tailed really bad, it can't go through. You ought to have
> about
> 1/16" sticking out. Now solder it, the solder will lock the splayed rat
> tailed ends in place in the countersink, make it solid so that it cannot
> compress, and now you have a cable end that is too big to fit through the
> countersunk end of the ferrule, in addition to the solder joint itself.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kirby Dennis Contr MDA/AL" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
> To: ;
> Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 2:54 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: 912 Throttle Cable Failure
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-related news story on KSL tonight |
At 05:00 PM 4/20/2007, grabo172 wrote:
>...legally, I can't use my Firestar as a photo platform if I'm going to
>sell the photos as part of a business. I did many weeks of research and
>calling the FSDO and everything to see if I could use it... the final
>answer was... NO
>
>
>I would LOVE to be able to use my Firestar instead of having to rent a 172
>everytime I go on a photoshoot. Not only to save money ($9/hour vs
>$165/hour), but it is a MUCH better photo platform.
>
>So any ideas on how he can do it legally, or is he just doing it illeagally?
$165 an hour? Yikes! Sure has gone up since the last time I rented one!
Depending on your intentions, it could be a gray area. It's OK to take
pictures-- photography is a legitimate recreational activity-- and it's OK
to sell them later-- but you're not allowed to make a flight for the
purpose of taking pictures that you intend to sell. Enforcement would be
unlikely... unless you were advertising an aerial photography business or
taking orders to photograph specific things.
AC103.7 says, "Persons are not prohibited from flying ultralights and then
authoring books about their experiences for which they ultimately receive
compensation," which is what Adriel seems to be doing.
-Dana
--
--
My software never has bugs. It just develops random features.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lexan Wing Gap Seal - revisited |
| From: | "John H Murphy" <jhm9812(at)yahoo.com> |
I've received a lot of responses about the need to have a gap seal. I guess stall
speeds increase & performance in general is severely degraded. Mine is pretty
shot. Has anyone built one that is permanent? Does not need to be removed everytime
you fold the wings. Barring that does Kolb sell one or is it usual for
one to fabricate your own?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108209#108209
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Pitchurs you say?
Okey Dokey.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108214#108214
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030927_large_403.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030925_large_126.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030923_large_976.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030919_large_248.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030918_large_200.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030917_large_124.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030902_large_193.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Russ Kinne <russ(at)rkiphoto.com> |
I would feel anxious if I knew my throttle cable were held only by
solder. The suggestion by Richard pike is a very good one, and in
fact any way that a splayed-out cable can be secured with a jamming
plug. Used all the time on sailboats, but never saw anything as small
as a throttle cable. I wonder if an end could be cold-swedged on?
That's an awesomely strong terminal fitting, approaching the strength
of the cable itself. Possibly you could even run it thru a two-hole
swedge fitting, making the smallest loop possible. That would
certainly hold.
I once had the mix-control come out in my hand, going down the Fraser
River valley in BC at about 400'; the wire simply broke. I assumed it
had a return-to-full-rich spring & just flew along another half hour
and landed at Hope. THEN I found out there was no such spring! -- but
I hadn't tried to change the mix setting & all worked out OK.
Got an automotive control, installed it & used it another 500 hours
or so.
But overall, what Roger Lee says -- "The time to practice is before
you have a real problem" is the best advice anyone could get, for any
subject.
I don't know for sure, but suspect a high-drag aircraft like a Kolb
would be similar to Cessnas on floats --power-off, you have to hold a
startlingly steep angle of descent to keep your airspeed up, then
flare at a few feet above your landing surface. Otherwise you're
lilkely to stall.
With a WOT throttle I think I'd roar along downwind & base, start
final and when I'm SURE I had the field made, kill the engine & bleed
off speed. If I thought everyone in the vicinity had radio contact I
think I'd announce my problem & make a straight-in approach, holding
power until over the threshold.
But every situation is different, I wasn't there, and Dennis did a
fine job of handling the problem and landed without bashing anyone
or anything.
A fine piece of work in anyone's book!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gasohol, gascolators |
Steve,
Please give me that part number again, I think I want one.
Denny
----- Original Message -----
From: N27SB(at)aol.com
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Gasohol, gascolators
In a message dated 4/19/2007 9:44:40 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rowedenny(at)windstream.net writes:
Steve,
Did it have a sump drain and glass bowel?
Denny Rowe
yup
steve
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
See what's free at AOL.com.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
4/19/2007 5:56 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
Richard,
Thanks much for the picts of the new kolb details.
What are they saying about performance improvements with the new
features?
Gene
On Apr 20, 2007, at 9:11 PM, Richard Pike wrote:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030927_large_403.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030925_large_126.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030923_large_976.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030919_large_248.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030918_large_200.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030917_large_124.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030902_large_193.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | lakeland..pic of John Hauck...frid. |
spent the whole day in the ultra light area. Met John Hauck for the 1st time
and had a good visit with him...made the trip worth while...grandson Kendall
Rusco also was with me and also met John...attached is Pic. of john and his
mklll
jim swan firestar ll 503 michigan
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
The airplane is not yet licensed. Will be a while for results, it is a test
mule. (But a really gorgeous one!)
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eugene Zimmerman" <etzim62(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 9:39 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Lakeland
>
>
> Richard,
> Thanks much for the picts of the new kolb details.
> What are they saying about performance improvements with the new
> features?
>
> Gene
>
> On Apr 20, 2007, at 9:11 PM, Richard Pike wrote:
>
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030927_large_403.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030925_large_126.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030923_large_976.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030919_large_248.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030918_large_200.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030917_large_124.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030902_large_193.jpg
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kolb Firestar @ Lakeland Sun n' fun |
| From: | "ruscok" <ruscok(at)gmail.com> |
Its always good to see this famous firestar at either Osh Kosh or Sun n' Fun showing
off the great flight characteristics of the Kolb.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0bjd38jvHWk
Kendall Rusco
ruscok(at)gmail.com
517.230.9000
Michigan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108228#108228
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-related news story on KSL tonight |
| From: | "grabo172" <grabo172(at)sc.rr.com> |
$165... $135 for the plane and $30 for a pilot... the company I rent from for
my photoshoots doesn't allow commercial flights without thier instructor on board.
I used to be an instructor for them. Photo flights were the most fun flights I
got to do. But since I'm no longer with them as a pilot, I have to pay the extra
for them.
Wish I could use my Kolb!
--------
-Erik Grabowski
Kolb Firestar N197BG
CFI/CFII/LS-I
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108233#108233
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lexan Wing Gap Seal - revisited |
John, there's a little showing on page 3 & 4 of the Engine and Redrive
section of Building Vamoose on my website: www.gogittum.com . I just
reviewed it, and was amazed that that was 3 years ago already. Lots of
water under the bridge, and the redrive lives at the Palm Springs City
Landfill now.
On 4/20/07, John H Murphy wrote:
>
>
> I've received a lot of responses about the need to have a gap seal. I
> guess stall speeds increase & performance in general is severely degraded.
> Mine is pretty shot. Has anyone built one that is permanent? Does not need
> to be removed everytime you fold the wings. Barring that does Kolb sell one
> or is it usual for one to fabricate your own?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108209#108209
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | lakeland and pic of john Williamson, his Kolbra and my grandson |
Hi Gang,
Met John Wiliamson today , Frid at lakeland, looked over his Kolbra both
him and John H are interesting to talk with and have lots of good info. The
best part is that they are willing to share with you and be helpful...so had
a wonderful time and my granson Kendall Rusco got some more education.
attached is pic of John w. and my granson setting in his kolbra.
Jim swan firestar ll 503 michigan
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | lakeland...pic of Ric Neilsen and the Kolb stand... |
Hello gang.
attached is pic of Ric Neilsen on the left...Ric only live's about 15
miles north of me in Michigan...flys a Kolb MK lll with a vw engine....we plan
on flying our Kolbs to some of the fly ins in Michigan this summer...had a
enjoyable time with Ric this afternoon ...frid....at lakeland..
jim swan firestar ll 503 michigan
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | lakeland and pic of Steve Boetto's Firefly on floats |
attached pic is the firefly of steve's on floats...met Steve for the 1st
time today at Sun-n fun....got lots of interesting info from him on kolb float
flying today....he also got my grandson Kendall Rusco interested, I can see we
may be doing some flying off from water in the future.. I wish to thank
Steve here for doing that and also for all the info....
jim swan firestar ll 503 michigan
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gasohol, gascolators |
Denny
no part #. Going back to show today, I will get more info
steve
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: lakeland and pic of Steve Boetto's Firefly on floats |
In a message dated 4/20/2007 11:35:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
Arksey(at)aol.com writes:
....he also got my grandson Kendall Rusco interested, I can see we may be
doing some flying off from water in the future.. I wish to thank Steve here
for doing that and also for all the info....
jim swan firestar ll 503 michigan
Thanks Jim, It was a Pleasure. Most people did not realize the scope of
Kendall's achievement in flying your FirestarII from OK to Mich. We don't see
many younger guys in the sport anymore and Kendall is a Fine Talented Young
Gentleman. Hope to do some flying with both of you in the future.
Steve B
Firefly 007
on Floats
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
At 09:11 PM 4/20/2007, Russ Kinne wrote:
>I would feel anxious if I knew my throttle cable were held only by solder.
>The suggestion by Richard pike is a very good one, and in fact any way
>that a splayed-out cable can be secured with a jamming plug. Used all the
>time on sailboats, but never saw anything as small as a throttle cable...
I would be nervous about the jammed on plug in a vibration application. I
have done the solder thing, both for the throttle cable on my PPG as well
as replacement window lift cables in a Mazda Miata. I used brass tubing;
ran the cable through the tubing and then stuck a pin through the strands
of the cable to spread them out. FIlled the tube with solder, pin and all,
and trimmed the pin off later. Too much heat's a killer, though.
The R/C guys use cable that's brass plated. Available from hobby
suppliers, it's MUCH easier to solder to.
-Dana
--
--
My software never has bugs. It just develops random features.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 Throttle Cable Failure |
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
After I sent my post on this yesterday, remembered that I had done an article on
this for our local EAA chapter newsletter, with some pictures. So here they
are. I think the attachments will probably show up in reverse order, but you
guys will figure it out.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108285#108285
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/solderswage4_medium_147.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/solderswage3_medium_126.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/solderswage2_medium_907.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/solderswage1_medium_181.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
I've received a lot of responses about the need to have a gap seal. I guess
stall speeds increase & performance in general is severely degraded. Mine is
pretty shot. Has anyone built one that is permanent? Does not need to be
removed every time you fold the wings. Barring that does Kolb sell one or is
it usual for one to fabricate your own?
I did not like the option of having to remove the gap seal to fold the
wings... so I started with kolbs plans and modified them to fit my
application.. you can follow a link to my gap seal from this link. If you
have any other specific questions that you think I could help with, let me
know.
http://www.brigham.net/~byoung
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron <captainron1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-related news story on KSL tonight |
Well if he is selling his pictures after taking them, but not contracting the kolb
to take the pictures then he is legal. The difference as far as the feds are
concerned is "Holding Out" in other words is he is advertising his kolb for
the purposes of taking pictures. If he is on his own accord flying his Kolb and
taking pictures and then he sells them he is 100% legal. If he takes a paying
pax with him for the purposes of a photo shoot then he is not legal and will
be violated. In other words if he is doing it for himself he is legal if he
is doing it for someone else he is FAR 135 or another type of regulated commercial
op, like a flight school etc.. .
the purpose of the reg is the protection of the public, if you are acting on your
own behalf for your own purposes even if they are monetary you are clear. Even
the mighty FAA has to regulate in accordance with the Constitution, this is
why we have the best aviation in the world.
======================
---- Dana Hague wrote:
============
At 05:00 PM 4/20/2007, grabo172 wrote:
>...legally, I can't use my Firestar as a photo platform if I'm going to
>sell the photos as part of a business. I did many weeks of research and
>calling the FSDO and everything to see if I could use it... the final
>answer was... NO
>
>
>I would LOVE to be able to use my Firestar instead of having to rent a 172
>everytime I go on a photoshoot. Not only to save money ($9/hour vs
>$165/hour), but it is a MUCH better photo platform.
>
>So any ideas on how he can do it legally, or is he just doing it illeagally?
$165 an hour? Yikes! Sure has gone up since the last time I rented one!
Depending on your intentions, it could be a gray area. It's OK to take
pictures-- photography is a legitimate recreational activity-- and it's OK
to sell them later-- but you're not allowed to make a flight for the
purpose of taking pictures that you intend to sell. Enforcement would be
unlikely... unless you were advertising an aerial photography business or
taking orders to photograph specific things.
AC103.7 says, "Persons are not prohibited from flying ultralights and then
authoring books about their experiences for which they ultimately receive
compensation," which is what Adriel seems to be doing.
-Dana
--
--
My software never has bugs. It just develops random features.
--
kugelair.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)bellsouth.net> |
At 11:12 AM 4/21/2007, you wrote:
>
>
>I've received a lot of responses about the need to have a gap seal. I guess
>stall speeds increase & performance in general is severely degraded. Mine
is
>pretty shot. Has anyone built one that is permanent? Does not need to be
>removed every time you fold the wings. Barring that does Kolb sell one or
is
>it usual for one to fabricate your own?
This one slides out, all you have to do is take
two screws loose from the front.
Takes about 60 seconds. Here is the way we do it down south.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------
WING GAP SEAL
See drawing sheet 44. In your kit are
four 1/2"x5/8"x30" sheet metal angles. Clamp two
of these together with approximately 0.032 gap
between the 1/2" legs and drill #30 holes with 1"
spacing starting from one end for 16". Then cut
metal to each of the holes so channels can be contoured to the wing.
Drill and install channels with 2"
spacing to IB side of IB wing ribs with 1/8"
rivets. Lay 0.020 sheet metal on top of wings and
mark along each channel (I think it is 6061
aluminum 'thin, but kind of stiff). Add
approximately 1/2" to each side of these marks
and cut (You don=92t have to get too tight of a fit here).
Now cut a section of 1 112" tubing to fit
between wing LE tubes. Hold tube in position and
slide gap seal LE on tube and rivet in place. Cut
a 1" long piece of 1 1/2" aluminum tube. Then cut
out 1/4" gap, as you did making rear spar
splices. Slide this piece into wing LE tube with
Epoxy applied and use sheet metal screws to
attach the forward corners of gap seal to wing LE
tubes. The doubler makes a better thread for the
sheet metal screws(drill larger hole in gap seal
for screw). I did mine a little different here
and just used one tube over the ends of the LE
tubes that stick out about 2 inches on my plane.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar lift struts |
I dont know if you will like these, but I built single struts for my FireFly a
couple of years ago. They made a world of difference.
here is a link to the strut mod page on my FireFly builders site.
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/strut_mod.htm
I consulted with Dennis Souder on the design of the attachment fittings, and followed
his advise accordingly.
They have over 100 hours on em now....wouldnt even consider going back.
--------
Don G
FireFly#098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108364#108364
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Laird" <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
| Subject: | time lapse video: folding a kolb |
I did this today... it was a foggy morning, but it cleared.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uGblkR8cdYE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Throttle Cable Failure |
At 10:42 PM 4/20/2007, you wrote:
>
>Nice going Dennis!! Glad to hear you got your plane down without
>incident.... looking forward to seeing you at MV soon! It's good
>that it happend close to home and not enroute to MV!!
>
>I practiced power-off (engine at idle) glide approaches regularly in
>the Firefly and performed several approaches with engine off.... I
>found the Firefly glided better and further with engine off than it
>did at idle.
I agree .... my "Semi" Firestar glides better and further with engine
off than it does at idle.
I got three blades, so the disk may effect me more.
Maybe the "Twins" have more drag to deal with than the single seaters?
This was on a day with pretty good thermals and I still don't think
"it drops like a rock" at least not to me - 400 ft per minute?
Sorry about the quality - this was with my old VHS camera converted
to digital, but still.
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-9177096133625180462&hl=en
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 Throttle Cable Failure |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
400' per minute drop is nothing. d When doing auto-rotations in my helicopter it
would drop 1400'-1600' per minute. It's all in what you get used to. That's
why you need to try it so your ready if or when the day comes so you don't miss
your landing spot. With a little practice you can get within 20' of a predetermined
touchdown spot and when it's an emergency that may be exactly what you
need. You won't under or over shoot your spot with a little practice.
You will have confidence that you can calmly handle any engine out.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108376#108376
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar lift struts |
Don
I remember your conversion.. and would have copied it save that I am
using h sections in my spar and the thru bolt.. using Ultra star ribs and
the ultrastar h section..
Do you recall the major and minor axis for the streamlined tubing? I
am guessing that they buy it from Mary Carlson.. She has the dies for
two sizes..Herb
writes:
>
> I dont know if you will like these, but I built single struts for my
> FireFly a couple of years ago. They made a world of difference.
>
> here is a link to the strut mod page on my FireFly builders site.
>
> http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/strut_mod.htm
>
> I consulted with Dennis Souder on the design of the attachment
> fittings, and followed his advise accordingly.
> They have over 100 hours on em now....wouldnt even consider going
> back.
>
> --------
> Don G
> FireFly#098
>
> http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108364#108364
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar lift struts |
At 08:58 PM 4/21/2007, you wrote:
>
>At 07:42 PM 4/21/2007, Don G wrote:
>>
>>I dont know if you will like these, but I built single struts for
>>my FireFly a couple of years ago. They made a world of difference...
>
>What is the advantage to the single strut? Less drag I suppose, but
>the loss of stiffness (allowing wing twist) would seem to be a bad thing.
>
> -Dana
Ok - since it's Saturday and after 5:00 PM and most of the hard core
Kolb guys have gone to
"Sun & Fun" , I'll comment here. My plane (half Kolb/half Fergy) and
has connections for
both the single and double struts. You supposed right, less drag is
the advantage,
Loss of 8 mph top end.
Wing twist is why they were ever there to start with. But it is very
hard to twist the original Kolb wing/ribs. My plane
has original Kolb wing/ribs. However, I do put the doubles on
occasionally when I might decide to do
something outside the envelope. Fergy has taken them off all their
planes (if you would want to know).
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar lift struts |
At 09:20 PM 4/21/2007, herbgh(at)juno.com wrote:
> I suspect that the reason for the dual lift strut on the firefly was
>for weight considerations?
>
> I do not follow the loss of stiffness idea? The wing is built like
>all other Kolbs which have a single strut... Same spar as the Firestar..
Having dual struts resists twisting of the wing, and the expense of drag
(vs. a single strut). If there's only one strut (as in the Ultrastar), the
wing structure itself has to resist all the twisting forces (as from
aileron deflection). A single strut attaching at two points is no stiffer
than a single strut attaching at one point (unless the strut is VERY stiff,
with a rigid connection to the crossbar).
-Dana
--
--
My software never has bugs. It just develops random features.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar lift struts |
At 09:58 PM 4/21/2007, you wrote:
>>Re: Ff double struts. Need the extra drag to comply w/ 103. dang
>>shame, though.
>
>Ah HA! Is that really why? Tricky, very tricky...
>
> -Dana
YES -
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | "Best" source for weather forecasting - wind info. |
| From: | "John H Murphy" <jhm9812(at)yahoo.com> |
I've been using weather.com for my source of weather information. Specifically
I want to get the best forecast for wind. I've also tried the NOAA site. Are there
other sources online that I'm missing? The wunderground.com just does not
seem to be accurate.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108496#108496
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "john brown" <jbrown909(at)btinternet.com> |
Hi (from the UK)
I am in the process of repairing a Twinstar Mk III (classic) and would
like to see pictures of the cage before any bits are hung on it, to see
which tubes are meant to be straight and which are not!
Any drawings with dimensions to check straightness would be appreciated
too.
For instance, can anyone tell me the dimension from the forward lower
corner of the front wing attachment tube to the OD of the forward-most
horizontal tube in front of the pedals?
Thanks,
John Brown
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: "Best" source for weather forecasting - wind info. |
At 05:07 PM 4/22/2007, John H Murphy wrote:
>
>I've been using weather.com for my source of weather information.
>Specifically I want to get the best forecast for wind. I've also tried the
>NOAA site. Are there other sources online that I'm missing? The
>wunderground.com just does not seem to be accurate.
John, I like wunderground for the local weather stations (some are better
than others) but not for their forecasts. I put together my own wx page
containing all the sites I usually use:
http://home.comcast.net/~d-m-hague/weather/weather.htm
It's local to Connecticut, but you can follow the links and browse to other
locations. The Rapid Update Cycle forecasts seem to be the most accurate
for wind.
-Dana
--
--
My software never has bugs. It just develops random features.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II HKS Conversion |
| From: | "Dave Bigelow" <up_country(at)hotmail.com> |
This is an update on the HKS powered Firestar. Ive been flying it regularly, and
nothing to report but good. Its smooth, powerful, starts immediately, and
hasnt missed a beat. Ive been going over it very carefully after every flight,
and everything is solid, with no sign of anything wanting to shake off or come
loose.
Fuel consumption is between 2.4 and 2.5 gallons per hour over the broad range of
flying. You could probably do a bit better than that in steady cruise.
The only thing I am going to change is to add an oil thermostat. I fly over such
a broad range of altitude and temperature that it is difficult to regulate
oil temperature by partially blocking the cooler airflow.
Here are a couple of hints for anyone contemplating using this engine:
1. The ignition is hot from the battery/rectifier. It has to have 12 volt DC
to run. It is very important to have a good grounding system. If not, it is
easy to blow an ignition module or worse.
2. Get the HKS tachometer. It is the best small tachometer Ive every used, and
has a warning light built in that comes on if you exceed maximum RPM.
Here is link to YouTube to a short video clip I posted of operations from my pasture
strip:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbrTNuS9yVY
--------
Dave Bigelow
Kamuela, Hawaii
FS2, HKS 700E
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108543#108543
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | MV red bull air races |
FYI.
according to our local news this evening,,, the red bull air races will be
at MV the weekend before our unorganized, unplanned, gathering at MV... one
of the concessions of having the races there is the airport will be paved.
Those attending will be bussed into the area, which will not be around the
monuments,,, and the crowd will be limited to 5000 persons.
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II HKS Conversion |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Neat video !! I just went to Sun and Fun and saw the the HKS is being used on
a lot of very small planes, mostly weight shift trikes... The HKS is getting
a reputation for being a reliable, smooth running, light engine. The HKS looks
like the perfect engine for the Firestar, and its not that much more expensive
than a new 503 and gearbox....
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108676#108676
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzim62(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Kolb Lazer prototype on Ebay |
http://tinyurl.com/3xkp7l
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Help-- High Voltage? |
| From: | "Tom O'Hara" <tohara(at)alphagraphics.com> |
First, let me say that I am a buyer/flyer not a builder/flyer. Purchased a MKIII
a year and a half ago and have been having a ball. I believe it is the first
one out of the TN plant.
Saturday I went out for a flight and had an EIS warning light come on--- voltage.
Currently the EIS is set for 11.2 to 14.6 volts acceptable range. I was running
16.2 to 17.4.
Are the set points correct?
Where should I start trouble shooting?
What are the consequences of the high voltage?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108679#108679
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Help-- High Voltage? |
Saturday I went out for a flight and had an EIS warning light come on---
voltage. Currently the EIS is set for 11.2 to 14.6 volts acceptable range.
I was running 16.2 to 17.4.
Are the set points correct?
Where should I start trouble shooting?
What are the consequences of the high voltage?
I think I would set the lower range to 11.8V the 14.6 seems ok. Lead acid
batteries are considered discharged at 11.8 V
If you are running 16.2 to 17.4 the first thing I would do is compare it to
another volt meter, if it is still that high I would check the battery, or
the voltage regulator/ rectifier. I would compare the voltage without
starting up the engine... no need of having the last test be the one to let
the smoke out.
You do know about the smoke don't you,,,,, the factory fills all
electronics with smoke before they sell them.... if you let the smoke out
they quit working.
the consequences of the high voltage could include smoking the eis, that
would be an expensive puff of smoke,,, it could also damage radios, gps,
etc, if they are using onboard power. It could even destroy the battery by
over charging it and boiling out the electrolyte.
Mine has always read 13.8 while running.
[Boyd]
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Help-- High Voltage? |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
You ought to check your regulator/rectifier. High voltage is what happens when
it goes out. Easy to replace. High voltage can damage instruments,
radios and batteries. They are not expensive and it stands a high probability for
the cause. I wouldn't fly it or run it any more than you have to until it's
fixed.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108698#108698
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Help-- High Voltage? |
11.2 to 14.6 would be a good normal.
As far as trouble shooting, what engine are you running? What
regulator/rectifier? Can't second guess the unknown, at least from this
end...
As far as the consequences - probably something like fried avionics, battery
with water boiled away (check it first), stuff like that.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom O'Hara" <tohara(at)alphagraphics.com>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 1:25 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Help-- High Voltage?
>
> First, let me say that I am a buyer/flyer not a builder/flyer. Purchased
> a MKIII a year and a half ago and have been having a ball. I believe it is
> the first one out of the TN plant.
>
> Saturday I went out for a flight and had an EIS warning light come on---
> voltage. Currently the EIS is set for 11.2 to 14.6 volts acceptable
> range. I was running 16.2 to 17.4.
>
> Are the set points correct?
> Where should I start trouble shooting?
> What are the consequences of the high voltage?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108679#108679
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912 |
| You need two gages because you need to compare the two at the same
time so you can set the needles to the same on both.
| Roger Lee
Roger:
What does the above mean?
I don't recall "setting the needles"???
john h
mkIII A bunch.
912ULS 13.6 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Throttle Cable Failure |
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 912 Throttle Cable Failure
Dennis/Gang:
Spend a buck and get a new cable. Why take a chance on another
failure.
Your home soldered cable is not the first failure I have heard about.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kenanddenice(at)aol.com |
I am between a wing-gap and a hard place right now...HA... I have been think
ing, looking, and scratching my head for ideas on how to do a better style o
f gap seal (other than what is shown on my Firestar II plan-set).
My Firestar is an 96 model....I'm a little slow!!! Cauz I'm not in a hurry!
!!!
I have not yet had the time to fully digest the information you have shown..
..but the few moments I have spent looking makes me want to jump out of my s
eat and say Thank you!!! Thank you!!! Thank you!!!
***I love a great idea****
Any other information on this topic will help, I have attached two digital i
mages of my project.
Ken Gardner
Boise, Idaho.
-----Original Message-----
From: possums(at)bellsouth.net
Sent: Sat, 21 Apr 2007 3:16 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: gap seal
At 11:12 AM 4/21/2007, you wrote:
I've received a lot of responses about the need to have a gap seal. I guess
stall speeds increase & performance in general is severely degraded. Mine is
pretty shot. Has anyone built one that is permanent? Does not need to be
removed every time you fold the wings. Barring that does Kolb sell one or is
it usual for one to fabricate your own?
This one slides out, all you have to do is take two screws loose from the fr
ont.
Takes about 60 seconds. Here is the way we do it down south.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------
WING GAP SEAL
See drawing sheet 44. In your kit are four 1/2"x5/8"x30" sheet metal
angles. Clamp two of these together with approximately 0.032 gap between the
1/2" legs and drill #30 holes with 1" spacing starting from one end for 16"
. Then cut metal to each of the holes so channels can be contoured to the wi
ng.
Drill and install channels with 2" spacing to IB side of IB wing ribs
with 1/8" rivets. Lay 0.020 sheet metal on top of wings and mark along each
channel (I think it is 6061 aluminum =93thin, but kind of stiff). Add
approximately 1/2" to each side of these marks and cut (You don=99t h
ave to get too tight of a fit here).
Now cut a section of 1 112" tubing to fit between wing LE tubes. Hold
tube in position and slide gap seal LE on tube and rivet in place. Cut a 1"
long piece of 1 1/2" aluminum tube. Then cut out 1/4" gap, as you did makin
g rear spar splices. Slide this piece into wing LE tube with Epoxy applied a
nd use sheet metal screws to attach the forward corners of gap seal to wing
LE tubes. The doubler makes a better thread for the sheet metal screws(drill
larger hole in gap seal for screw). I did mine a little different here and
just used one tube over the ends of the LE tubes that stick out about 2 inch
es on my plane.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
AOL at AOL.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kenanddenice(at)aol.com |
I am between a wing-gap and a hard place right now...HA... I have been think
ing, looking, and scratching my head for ideas on how to do a better style o
f gap seal (other than what is shown on my Firestar II plan-set).
My Firestar is an 96 model....I'm a little slow!!! Cauz I'm not in a hurry!
!!!
I have not yet had the time to fully digest the information you have shown..
..but the few moments I have spent looking makes me want to jump out of my s
eat and say Thank you!!! Thank you!!! Thank you!!!
***I love a great idea****
Any other information on this topic will help.
Ken Gardner
Boise, Idaho.
-----Original Message-----
From: possums(at)bellsouth.net
Sent: Sat, 21 Apr 2007 3:16 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: gap seal
At 11:12 AM 4/21/2007, you wrote:
I've received a lot of responses about the need to have a gap seal. I guess
stall speeds increase & performance in general is severely degraded. Mine is
pretty shot. Has anyone built one that is permanent? Does not need to be
removed every time you fold the wings. Barring that does Kolb sell one or is
it usual for one to fabricate your own?
This one slides out, all you have to do is take two screws loose from the fr
ont.
Takes about 60 seconds. Here is the way we do it down south.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------
WING GAP SEAL
See drawing sheet 44. In your kit are four 1/2"x5/8"x30" sheet metal
angles. Clamp two of these together with approximately 0.032 gap between the
1/2" legs and drill #30 holes with 1" spacing starting from one end for 16"
. Then cut metal to each of the holes so channels can be contoured to the wi
ng.
Drill and install channels with 2" spacing to IB side of IB wing ribs
with 1/8" rivets. Lay 0.020 sheet metal on top of wings and mark along each
channel (I think it is 6061 aluminum =93thin, but kind of stiff). Add
approximately 1/2" to each side of these marks and cut (You don=99t h
ave to get too tight of a fit here).
Now cut a section of 1 112" tubing to fit between wing LE tubes. Hold
tube in position and slide gap seal LE on tube and rivet in place. Cut a 1"
long piece of 1 1/2" aluminum tube. Then cut out 1/4" gap, as you did makin
g rear spar splices. Slide this piece into wing LE tube with Epoxy applied a
nd use sheet metal screws to attach the forward corners of gap seal to wing
LE tubes. The doubler makes a better thread for the sheet metal screws(drill
larger hole in gap seal for screw). I did mine a little different here and
just used one tube over the ends of the LE tubes that stick out about 2 inch
es on my plane.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________
AOL at AOL.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | low and not-so-slow video |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <thomriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
For you guys going to MV soon, keep your eyes open for these guys. Great low and
not-so-slow video in an area that looks a lot like MV but based on the hardware
and the last few seconds of the video, me thinks it might be elsewhere. I
promise you will enjoy viewing this one.
http://www.glumbert.com/media/flylow
Thom in Buffalo
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108760#108760
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: low and not-so-slow video |
| From: | "John Williamson" <kolbrapilot1(at)tx.rr.com> |
Nice video, but not even in this hemisphere!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108775#108775
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912 |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi John,
Needles were in reference the needles on the gages.
I just meant that the needles on each gage should be set so they are the same.
i.e. When you have 5 on one gage you adjust the other carb so the needle on that
gage is 5 or what ever the reading maybe on each gage. Just get them set the
same.. syncing the carbs.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108799#108799
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rotax 447 longevity |
Guys,
Im trying to make a decision. Your input will help me make the right one.
Has any one ran a 447 to 100 hours without a decarbon using pennzoil? Has
anyone had a 447 fail due to carbon under the rings before reaching 100 hours
while using Pennzoil air cooled exclusively? PLEASE, No oil war! If you have
experience That falls in either of these categories, I would like to have your
imput, otherwise please dont respond. Thanks in advance.
Ed Diebel (FF 62)
**************************************
See
what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Help-- High Voltage? |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
16.2 volts is way to high, you should never see it that high. You will fry something
in short order with a voltage that high. I would not fly the plane until
the voltage problem is fixed.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108817#108817
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rotax 447 longevity |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
You wont get carbon buildup if you use Seafoam :) I asked a similar question
in the Rotax Forum and got some good information. I did not ask about oil,
but I did get a lot of responses on engine life. You might want to look at this
thread. It got broken into 4 threads, but some good information if you read
them all.
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=23615
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108818#108818
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flimsy Little Planes |
| From: | "Dave Rains" <RangeFlyer72(at)yahoo.com> |
So, I like saw one these Kolbs, and it's like made out of paper or something. [Shocked]
Are they really safe? I mean the one I saw had a mexikan (overweight)
in it and hard as I tried, there wasn't an ICE agent to be found! My plane
is made out of metal :D I'm going to fly up to Monument valley the same week
as you girly men, and show you what a real plane can do!
Skeeter
(future helicopter owner)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108838#108838
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flimsy Little Planes |
| From: | "Dave Rains" <RangeFlyer72(at)yahoo.com> |
Ellery, never heard of you :( are you going to monument valley, or do you just
fly around the patch?
Skeeter
--------
Dave Rains
N8086T
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108842#108842
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912 |
| Needles were in reference the needles on the gages.
| Roger Lee
Roger:
Thanks. I was confused.
My line of thinking was more, setting the carbs and reading the
gauges.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rotax 447 longevity |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
I have over 450 hours on my 447. It's never been overhauled or decarboned. I don't
plan on doing anything but inspect the rings and cylinders once a year as
I always do. I do use Seafoam and Klotz synthetic oil. I believe in it, but that's
just my opinion. I like a reliable engine, and I have had great reliability
with this combo.
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar
20 years flying it
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108853#108853
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flimsy Little Planes |
| From: | "Dave Rains" <RangeFlyer72(at)yahoo.com> |
No Ralph, you have earned your status as a true Kolb (alpha male) pilot. Would
like to see you make MV some time. How runs the rotax? Do Jim and Dondi still
provide the dacron for Kolb kits? I wish I had another one, but I can always
steal Will's in a pinch. I'm building a Mosquito XE this year, a small helicopter.
With any luck, (or perhaps a lot) I'll be bringing it to MV next year.
Best regards,
Dave
--------
Dave Rains
N8086T
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108856#108856
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912 |
| From: | "Paul Petty" <paulpetty(at)myway.com> |
Gang,
Ronnie Smith of SMLA told me at sun-n-fun he was switching to a "one" guage set
up and used a valve to switch from one side to the other to eliminate the differance
in two or more guages.
--------
Paul Petty
Kolbra #12
Ms Dixie
Final assembly!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108875#108875
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Balancing Carbs on a 912 |
| Ronnie Smith of SMLA told me at sun-n-fun he was switching to a
"one" guage set up
| Paul Petty
Paul:
I like that idea.
Would like it even better if Rotax could get a fuel injection supplier
and eliminate the need for balancing dual carbs.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Welch" <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Make my own Turbo set-up |
Hey All,
A little over a week ago I asked everybody for their opinion on the
"Perfect engine" or more specifically, "the Perfect Power". (to push my
MkIII) While there were one or two guys that said the 60 HP range (Rotax
582) was just fine, it appears that the basic concensus was more the 80 HP
range (Rotax 912).
Since I already have my Kolb engine (GEO 1000cc 3 cylinder, Raven
Redrive) (approx. 60 hp, 58 ftlb torque) and I am going to stick with it,
here is what I have decided to do: I am going to fabricate my OWN Turbo
set-up. First, let me say "I don't know diddly about turbo-ing
anything." But, thank God for Google search and eBay!!!
In the course of a week, I feel I have come up with enough "know-how" to
put a turbo on my GEO. Yes, there are important issues to resolve!!!
Things like;
1) Excess turbine back pressure (handled by a wastegate)
2) Surging, after you close the throttle (quickly letting off the gas)
(handled by the Blow-Off valve)
3) Proper turbo size (This isn't as critical as you might think!!)
4) Fuel/air ratio (turbos give you "tons" more air, so what about the fuel
to go along with it??)
(This is handled by the O2 sensor and the MAP sensor. The O2 sensor will
read extra lean and then tell the computer to richen up the fuel/air ratio.
The MAP, manifold air pressure, sensor also assists the O2 sensor in
detecting the correct F/A mixture)
There are, of course, other issues, but for this email they get lengthy.
I could have bought a ready-made turbo set-up from Raven ($1800), but after
doing all the research, I decided to do my own. Kind of a challenge thing.
I can certainly handle the fabrication part of the project.
And putting a turbo on an engine isn't Rocket Science!!! (It isn't, is
it??) Just kidding.
If anyone is interested in what I have come up with, let me know. Call me
435-817-1816. It's just too complicated to do by way of email. (Plus,
I'll tell you about this awesome turbo I found that doesn't need a
wastegate....brand new...$325...came on Shelbys...and really small.)
By the way, all told, I may have about $600 TOTAL to do this turbo set-up.
I should go from 60 HP to about 80-85HP. And yes, as I stated before,
Suzuki 3 cylinders came with turbos as an option in their cars a few years
ago.
Gotta get to work on my shop. Mike in SW Utah
_________________________________________________________________
Interest Rates NEAR 39yr LOWS! $430,000 Mortgage for $1,299/mo - Calculate
new payment
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar lift struts |
Sounds like you Guys got this one sorted out.
Yes the two struts were for drag for part 103. Drag values were given for
different parts and tubes for the paper calculations.
A conversion to a single strut with ONE connection would require a new wing
with an H section.
Don, I like your mod, might use it on my FF. I get plenty af drag with my
Floats.
This info comes via Bryan Melborn.
Steve B
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron <captainron1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firestar II HKS Conversion |
Very nice video, and nice flying on your part.
Ron (Arizona)
=
---- Dave Bigelow wrote:
============
This is an update on the HKS powered Firestar. I=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2ve
been flying it regularly, and nothing to report but good. It=C3=A2=82=AC
=84=A2s smooth, powerful, starts immediately, and hasn=C3=A2=82=AC
=84=A2t missed a beat. I=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2ve been going over it very
carefully after every flight, and everything is solid, with no sign of anyt
hing wanting to shake off or come loose.
Fuel consumption is between 2.4 and 2.5 gallons per hour over the broad ran
ge of flying. You could probably do a bit better than that in steady cruise
.
The only thing I am going to change is to add an oil thermostat. I fly over
such a broad range of altitude and temperature that it is difficult to reg
ulate oil temperature by partially blocking the cooler airflow.
Here are a couple of hints for anyone contemplating using this engine:
1. The ignition is hot from the battery/rectifier. It has to have 12 volt D
C to run. It is very important to have a good grounding system. If not, it
is easy to blow an ignition module or worse.
2. Get the HKS tachometer. It is the best small tachometer I=C3=A2=82=AC
=84=A2ve every used, and has a warning light built in that comes on if y
ou exceed maximum RPM.
Here is link to YouTube to a short video clip I posted of operations from m
y pasture strip:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbrTNuS9yVY
--------
Dave Bigelow
Kamuela, Hawaii
FS2, HKS 700E
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108543#108543
--
kugelair.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron <captainron1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Help-- High Voltage? |
First thing I would do is hook up a voltage regulator and make sure the two instruments
agree, if not, then I would find out where is the voltage regulator and
swap it out. Other than that can't think of anything else off hand.
Ron (arizona)
=-=======================
---- Tom O'Hara wrote:
============
First, let me say that I am a buyer/flyer not a builder/flyer. Purchased a MKIII
a year and a half ago and have been having a ball. I believe it is the first
one out of the TN plant.
Saturday I went out for a flight and had an EIS warning light come on--- voltage.
Currently the EIS is set for 11.2 to 14.6 volts acceptable range. I was running
16.2 to 17.4.
Are the set points correct?
Where should I start trouble shooting?
What are the consequences of the high voltage?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108679#108679
--
kugelair.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron <captainron1(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Help-- High Voltage? |
First thing I would do is hook up a voltage meter and make sure the two instruments
agree, if not, then I would find out where is the voltage regulator and swap
it out. Other than that can't think of anything else off hand.
Ron (arizona)
=-=======================
---- Tom O'Hara wrote:
============
First, let me say that I am a buyer/flyer not a builder/flyer. Purchased a MKIII
a year and a half ago and have been having a ball. I believe it is the first
one out of the TN plant.
Saturday I went out for a flight and had an EIS warning light come on--- voltage.
Currently the EIS is set for 11.2 to 14.6 volts acceptable range. I was running
16.2 to 17.4.
Are the set points correct?
Where should I start trouble shooting?
What are the consequences of the high voltage?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108679#108679
--
kugelair.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Help-- High Voltage? |
Gang:
Didn't say what engine he was running, but constant hight voltage on a
two or four stroke Rotax is time to change out regulator/rectifier.
Only takes a minute to have the battery boiling. Been there and done
that. As an immediate expedient, turn on everything in the aircraft
that consumes 12VDC power. This will lessen the problem until you can
land and shut down the engine.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | High Voltage-- thank you |
| From: | "Tom O'Hara" <tohara(at)alphagraphics.com> |
Thanks for the help-- will be looking at regulator/rectifier this week.
Boyd-- I am aware of the "special smoke". Used to fly hot air and we were always
asked what kind of "special air" we used. Always answered that we bought it
at the Hot Air Store. The really special air was when you caught a gust on
inflation. That air could smell of burnt nylon-- which is REALLY special--$$$$----LOL
Thanks again
Note: Rotax 582
Tom
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108966#108966
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rotax 447 longevity |
Im trying to make a decision. Your input will help me make the right
one. Has any one ran a 447 to 100 hours without a decarbon using
pennzoil? Has anyone had a 447 fail due to carbon under the rings
before reaching 100 hours while using Pennzoil air cooled exclusively?
PLEASE, No oil war! If you have experience That falls in either of
these categories, I would like to have your imput, otherwise please dont
respond. Thanks in advance.
Ed Diebel (FF 62)
Hi,
I put 200 hours on a 447 with no decarbon or need to do so, using
only Penn air cooled. No noticeable reduction in power, very little
carbon on the top of the cylinders. Take your exhaust off and look at
it. Do a compression check. A lot of the carbon buildup comes with
running the egt's too low. No one of us can tell you it is alright
without being able to look at it ourselves. However if I had not
obtained a 503, I would still be flying the 447 without a "decarbon".
Larry , Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon LaVasseur <firestar503(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Monument Valley questions |
Hi Kolb guys and ladies,
Ive been hoping to come to Monument Valley for
some time. If I get to come this year it is
certain that I will trailer the bird. I havent
flown my Firestar more than 150 miles from home
so you can imagine I have a lot of questions.
Id be grateful if some of you would writer back
with details on the life and flying at Monument
Valley.
How much actual flying goes on?
Is weather good for flying all day or just
morning and evening?
Is there much chance of bad weather this time of
year?
Do you guys kinda fly together or not?
Is there is a lot of other air traffic in the
area?
What are the winds like?
Is motor gas available?
What are the daytime and nighttime temperatures?
Are there tie-down charges or other fees for
flying there?
Are there any special flight rules in the area?
My normal flying is around 2,000-3000 MSL. Do
the jet needles in the 503 need changing for
Monument Valley?
Is there any other engine modification
recommended?
Is there anything for a guys wife to do if she
is not crazy about flying?
How big is the general flying area, in case I
ever had to walk back? :-)
Unrelated but does any one know if flying near
the hoodoos at Bryce Canyon is legal?
Thanks in advance.
Sincerely,
Jon LaVasseur
Firestar503(at)yahoo.com
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flimsy Little Planes |
@yahoo.com>
>
> So, I like saw one these Kolbs, and it's like made out of paper or
> something. [Shocked] Are they really safe? I mean the one I saw had a
> mexikan (overweight) in it and hard as I tried, there wasn't an ICE agent
> to be found! My plane is made out of metal :D I'm going to fly up to
> Monument valley the same week as you girly men, and show you what a real
> plane can do!
> Skeeter
> (future helicopter owner)
>
>
> BIG GRIN,
Sic him, Will
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Maximum wind speed for "comfortable" flying? |
| From: | "John H Murphy" <jhm9812(at)yahoo.com> |
I have a Kolb Firestar II. Obviously it's best if flying with no wind. I'm curious
to find out what the maximum speed most people fly in and still be "comfortable".
There are other things of course that come into play as well such as thermals
and wind shear & the like. I sure like a completely calm day for flying!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109013#109013
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Flimsy Little Planes |
Hi Ellery,
Dave sold his FireStar to a guy from Mexico and now flys a tin can. When
ever he flys my FireStar he regrets ever selling his to the Mexican. The
tightwad finally got Roadrunner so he is back on the list after a long absents
and
is just messing with the new list members.
Check out this webpage for our first flight to Monument Valley in July 2001.
http://home.elp.rr.com/airplane/oregon.htm
Regards,
Will Uribe
FireStar II N4GU
El Paso, TX
_http://members.aol.com/WillUribe/mv/_ (http://members.aol.com/WillUribe/mv/)
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of ElleryWeld(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 5:31 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Flimsy Little Planes
The kolb is a stronger plane than you think and dam sure is not made out of
paper there the best little planes you could get compared to any other of its
class if you had done your home work you would have realized this before
you made a donkey's behind out of your self
Ellery
do not archive
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flimsy Little Planes |
| From: | "Dave Rains" <RangeFlyer72(at)yahoo.com> |
Yeah Will, got to mess with the natives. For all the list members who don't know
me, I do have a few hours in the Firestar, quite a few, many hundreds, perhaps
more! I have a deep respect for the design, as I've used it both for work
and pleasure, and in all weather, (except I don't do no ice!). Now, what's the
count for MV this year? I just know big Lar is flying Vamoose in, right? [Rolling
Eyes] Looking forward to seeing old friends and doing some good flying.
I intend to give a lot of free rides to the local kids.
Dave.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109036#109036
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Flycrazy8(at)AOL.com |
| Subject: | Re: rotax 447 longevity |
Im trying to make a decision. Your input will help me make the right one.
Has any one ran a 447 to 100 hours without a decarbon using pennzoil? Has
anyone had a 447 fail due to carbon under the rings before reaching 100 hours
while using Pennzoil air cooled exclusively? PLEASE, No oil war! If you have
experience That falls in either of these categories, I would like to have your
imput, otherwise please dont respond. Thanks in advance.
Ed Diebel (FF 62)
Hey Ed
Got 166 hours on my 447 and no carbon build-up . I am using seafoam with my
Pennz-Oil Air Cooled
Stephen
Firefly
Do Not archive
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Maximum wind speed for "comfortable" flying? |
| From: | "Dave Rains" <RangeFlyer72(at)yahoo.com> |
Yes John, Lumpy air reduces the fun, but a lumpy pilot does not notice :)
Right?
Skeeter
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109042#109042
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Maximum wind speed for "comfortable" flying? |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
I used to fly in winds up to 25mph. The plane will take a direct 15mph crosswind
on landing. Now I pick my days and fly in winds less than 15mph. Maybe I'm getting
old.
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar
20 years flying it
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109048#109048
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cost to cover an UltraStar |
| My UltraStar, built in 1984, is ready for new coverings. I
haven't
| priced the stuff yet, but would someone be able to give me a
ballpark cost of
| what I can expect?
Who are we talking to?
Be nice to have a signature. I have trouble remembering my own email
address, much less someone else's.
Best bet is call Jim and/or Dondi Miller for that info. They will
also be the best folks to give you what you need to do the job
correctly. Plus, they are also a big help if you have any questions
as to technique, etc.
1-877-877-3334
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Kmet" <jlsk1(at)frontiernet.net> |
Hi all, I`m about to fire up a newly overhualed 582 w/oil injection.
With everything set up PER rotax sevice manual, when I crank the engine
with the electric starter, but with no gas available, shouldn`t I get
some oil movement in the lines between the oil injector & the engine
crankcase where the oil line attaches to engine? I`m hesitant to put
gas in & run the engine with no visible oil movement while cranking at
different throttle settings. Everything else ablout the installation
looks great & "by the book". Thanks, Jim Kmet
MK-3C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 oil pump |
I`m hesitant to put gas in & run the engine with no visible oil
movement while cranking at different throttle settings. Everything
else ablout the installation looks great & "by the book". Thanks,
Jim Kmet
MK-3C
Jim:
Put 5 gals of 50 to 1 fuel/oil mix for the first run. I think that is
in the installation manual somewhere. You can do a search for it on
the Kodiak web page.
I think that is what I did for start up and break in of my 582 in
1992. Some of the current 582 guys should be able to give you better
info.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Deckard" <mustangsally(at)semo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 oil pump |
I would run the first couple of gallons as premix.
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kmet
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 7:48 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: 582 oil pump
Hi all, I`m about to fire up a newly overhualed 582 w/oil injection.
With everything set up PER rotax sevice manual, when I crank the engine
with the electric starter, but with no gas available, shouldn`t I get
some oil movement in the lines between the oil injector & the engine
crankcase where the oil line attaches to engine? I`m hesitant to put
gas in & run the engine with no visible oil movement while cranking at
different throttle settings. Everything else ablout the installation
looks great & "by the book". Thanks, Jim Kmet
MK-3C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Kmet" <jlsk1(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 oil pump |
I plan on running & breaking in engine with the recomeded procedures,
which include pre-mix, the question is,,,,,,,, should there be visible
movement, during & as a result of Cranking???
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Deckard
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 582 oil pump
I would run the first couple of gallons as premix.
Jerry
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kmet
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 7:48 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: 582 oil pump
Hi all, I`m about to fire up a newly overhualed 582 w/oil injection.
With everything set up PER rotax sevice manual, when I crank the engine
with the electric starter, but with no gas available, shouldn`t I get
some oil movement in the lines between the oil injector & the engine
crankcase where the oil line attaches to engine? I`m hesitant to put
gas in & run the engine with no visible oil movement while cranking at
different throttle settings. Everything else ablout the installation
looks great & "by the book". Thanks, Jim Kmet
MK-3C
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582 oil pump |
| From: | "Dave Rains" <RangeFlyer72(at)yahoo.com> |
No, you won't see any visible movement. Just ensure there are no bubbles in the
lines after about 5 gallons of premix. The 582 pump is very reliable in my
opinion.
Skeeter
--------
Dave Rains
N8086T
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109076#109076
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 oil pump |
the question is,,,,,,,, should there be visible movement, during &
as a result of Cranking???
Not hardly.
1 part in 50 ain't much, especially at cranking speeds.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Maximum wind speed for "comfortable" flying? |
| From: | "Dave Bigelow" <up_country(at)hotmail.com> |
I agree with Ralph - 15 mph and below makes for reasonable fun flying. The Firestar
will handle more than that, but the "pucker factor" increases rapidly with
velocity. If the air is unstable, even 15 mph can get exciting.
--------
Dave Bigelow
Kamuela, Hawaii
FS2, HKS 700E
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109090#109090
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 Throttle Cable Failure |
| From: | "Dave Bigelow" <up_country(at)hotmail.com> |
> Spend a buck and get a new cable. Why take a chance on another
> failure.
>
> Your home soldered cable is not the first failure I have heard about.
>
> john h
> mkIII
I agree with John. You can get cables with professionally soldered ends in custom
lengths from California Power Systems at a reasonable price.
It's also important to make sure the throttle end is properly done too - those
disconnects between pilot and engine can ruin your whole day.
--------
Dave Bigelow
Kamuela, Hawaii
FS2, HKS 700E
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109092#109092
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 Throttle Cable Failure |
You can get cables with professionally soldered ends in custom
lengths from California Power Systems at a reasonable price.
| --------
| Dave Bigelow
Dave:
Over all my years flying Kolbs, I have always used throttle and
enricher cables supplied by Kolb. Give Travis a call. He'll fix you
up with the best. I have never had a throttle cable failure. One
less problem to worry about.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 oil pump |
I don't remember now how I did it, but in addition to using the 50:1
premix, but somehow I reached back across the wing from the front side
and pulled the oil pump cable while the engine was running at part
throttle. If you kick the oil pump up to max, within a short time it
will suck all the air bubbles out, and the noticable increase in oil
smoke tells you that the pump is doing it's thing.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Kmet
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 8:48 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: 582 oil pump
Hi all, I`m about to fire up a newly overhualed 582 w/oil injection.
With everything set up PER rotax sevice manual, when I crank the engine
with the electric starter, but with no gas available, shouldn`t I get
some oil movement in the lines between the oil injector & the engine
crankcase where the oil line attaches to engine? I`m hesitant to put
gas in & run the engine with no visible oil movement while cranking at
different throttle settings. Everything else ablout the installation
looks great & "by the book". Thanks, Jim Kmet
MK-3C
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Maximum wind speed for "comfortable" flying? |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
15 MPH .... You could fly in more wind if you are an experienced pilot, but its
no fun.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109105#109105
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rotax 447 longevity |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Ed,
There is a lot of risk opening up an engine that does not need to be opened up.
There is always the chance of damaging something, or something being done wrong
that could cause problems or a fialure. Bottom line, dont work on an engine
that has nothing wrong with it.
Remember, many times manuals are written by lawyers, not mechanics. They may say
decarbon every 2 hours, that covers their arse. The dont care and they are
not liable if the engine is damaged or put back together wrong by a mechanic...
So what do you think they are going to recommend ? Get the picture ?
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109111#109111
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TheWanderingWench <thewanderingwench(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Monument Valley questions |
Hi Jon,
I've only been to the Kolb fly-in once - last year -
so my answers are based on that one experience:
> How much actual flying goes on?
Last year it was pretty hot, so most folks flew in the
morning and the evening. You could easily fly 4-5
hours/day if you want to get up early.
>
> Is weather good for flying all day or just
> morning and evening?
See answer above.
>
> Is there much chance of bad weather this time of
> year?
Yes - but that's always true when you fly in this part
of the country. "Bad weather" mostly translates into
strong winds and thermals.
>
> Do you guys kinda fly together or not?
Some do, some don't. I didn't see any evidence of
"Let's all get together tomorrow and fly at
such-and-such a time." If someone was ready to fly
and someone else wanted to join up, it happened.
>
> Is there is a lot of other air traffic in the
> area?
There was a "cruise ship" flying sightsee-ers in and
out. But not a problem as far as our flying.
>
> What are the winds like?
See first answer.
>
> Is motor gas available?
Yes, there's a gas station about 1/3 mile away.
>
> What are the daytime and nighttime temperatures?
HOT during the day. In the 90's. Cooled down some at
night.
>
> Are there tie-down charges or other fees for
> flying there?
Not that I remember.
>
> Are there any special flight rules in the area?
Don't land on the mesas.
>
> My normal flying is around 2,000-3000 MSL. Do
> the jet needles in the 503 need changing for
> Monument Valley?
I have a 503 DCDI. I dropped my jet needle to the
lowest position and went to a smaller main jet.
>
> Is there any other engine modification
> recommended?
I didn't do anything else.
>
> Is there anything for a guys wife to do if she
> is not crazy about flying?
The lodge, museum and gift shop are nice - but can be
seen pretty quickly. There's a swimming pool. Other
than that, she'll have to get in a car and go touring.
There are a few small towns around - Mexican Hat, for
one. I forget how far it is to Moab. I'd suggest she
bring some good books and if she does handicrafts -
bring them.
>
> How big is the general flying area, in case I
> ever had to walk back? :-)
Farther than you can walk back unless you're a strong
hiker and are carrying lots and lots of water. You
definitely don't want to be walking in the desert once
the sun comes up - not in mid-late May.
>
> Unrelated but does any one know if flying near
> the hoodoos at Bryce Canyon is legal?
Yes - but they appreciate it if you don't fly low over
the hoodoos.
Arty Trost
Maxair Drifter
Sandy, Oregon
www.LessonsFromTheEdge.com
"Life's a daring adventure or nothing"
Helen Keller
"I refuse to tip toe through life just to arrive safely at death."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flimsy Little Planes |
In a message dated 4/25/2007 6:56:53 AM Central Standard Time,
biglar(at)gogittum.com writes:
> Will you be at MV this year ?? Lar. Do
> not Archive.
>
Lar,
We would love to make MV, but we havent made Oshkosh in several years
and decided on Oshkosh since we cant make both. Maybe next year. Maybe you
will be flyin by then. It could happen ya know!
Ed
**************************************
See
what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | 582 w/oil injection |
Hi all, I`m about to fire up a newly overhualed 582 w/oil injection. With
everything set up PER rotax sevice manual, when I crank the engine with the
electric starter, but with no gas available, shouldn`t I get some oil
movement in the lines between the oil injector & the engine crankcase where
the oil line attaches to engine? I`m hesitant to put gas in & run the
engine with no visible oil movement while cranking at different throttle
settings. Everything else ablout the installation looks great & "by the
book". Thanks, Jim Kmet
MK-3C
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
If in doubt mix some oil in the gas... at the proper ratio... then after
20 to 30 min look at the level in the oil res,,,, if it has not moved go
back to the drawing board,,, if it has gone down drain the premix, check
the plugs and filer up. The oil feeds slow enough you may not see it move
with only the electric starter. Somewhere I remember that doubling the oil
for the first tank is good for the break in period...
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | MicroTim altimeter |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <thomriddle(at)adelphia.net> |
Our Kollsman window has quit reading properly and we are looking for alternatives
to replacing it or overhauling it since it still works other than the incorrect
Kollsman window reading.
Does anyone have any experience with the electronic altimeter from MicroTim? www.microtim.com
Thom in Buffalo
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109190#109190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flimsy Little Planes |
Hi Larry,
Have you looked at the MZ301 engine? I kinda like the MZ202 for my FireStar.
Check it out;
_http://www.compactradialengines.com/engines.html_
(http://www.compactradialengines.com/engines.html)
I just received confirmation I will be working in Waterloo, IA during the MV
flying. You all have fun for me.
Regards,
Will Uribe
FireStar II N4GU
El Paso, TX
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Bourne
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 5:54 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Flimsy Little Planes
My new job is pretty intense, Ed, and when I do get time off I head for the
hills. In the evenings I'm beat and read a book or doze till bedtime.
Saving my pennies for a new engine, too, tho' I haven't made final choice yet.
Will you be at MV this year ?? Lar. Do
not Archive.
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flimsy Little Planes |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
[quote="rowedenny(at)windstream.n"]
>
>
>
> I just didnt think it was ok to just barge in the list shooting down the Kolb
line of Planes Sorry for Jumping the Gun on anyone
>
> Ellery
> do not archive
>
>
>
Hahahaha,
I thought it was funny ! After all, thinking how long it took to fold 650 pounds
of paper into a MK III makes me with I had used aluminum and fabric covering...
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109224#109224
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 4/25/2007 2:20:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
WillUribe(at)aol.com writes:
Hi Larry,
Have you looked at the MZ301 engine? I kinda like the MZ202 for my FireStar.
Check it out;
Will,
Looks interesting, anyone using one of these
steve
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 w/oil injection |
If you run it at part throttle with premix AND also pull the oil pump cable
to max, you can see the air bubbles pulsing through the oil line as the pump
sucks them out.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
----- Original Message -----
From: "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 11:39 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: 582 w/oil injection
>
> Hi all, I`m about to fire up a newly overhualed 582 w/oil injection. With
> everything set up PER rotax sevice manual, when I crank the engine with
> the
> electric starter, but with no gas available, shouldn`t I get some oil
> movement in the lines between the oil injector & the engine crankcase
> where
> the oil line attaches to engine? I`m hesitant to put gas in & run the
> engine with no visible oil movement while cranking at different throttle
> settings. Everything else ablout the installation looks great & "by the
> book". Thanks, Jim Kmet
> MK-3C
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> If in doubt mix some oil in the gas... at the proper ratio... then
> after
> 20 to 30 min look at the level in the oil res,,,, if it has not moved go
> back to the drawing board,,, if it has gone down drain the premix, check
> the plugs and filer up. The oil feeds slow enough you may not see it
> move
> with only the electric starter. Somewhere I remember that doubling the
> oil
> for the first tank is good for the break in period...
>
> Boyd
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rotax Pull Starter Problem |
| From: | "beauford" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Per the DAR who inspected some airplanes here yesterday, there is a serious problem
with some 2-stroke rope starters... The weld which holds the starter axle
to the stamped steel starter housing breaks loose. This allows the recoil mechanism
to float around in the housing, where it eventually gets off center enough
to make contact with the flywheel assembly, resulting in all manner of bad
outcomes up to and including sudden stoppage, trashing of the engine, loss
of the aircraft, etc.. The minimum to be expected is a significant amount of expensive
damage to the starter and flywheel.
Points he made:
- inspect the shaft... if it turns when rope is pulled, do not run it or fly it.
- Starter can have a broken weld and still work just fine to start engine.
- If oil injection is installed, end of shaft cannot be seen because it is behind
the injection unit. (remove unit to inspect)
- Inspect frequently... like every preflight.
Mine, on my 447, is already broken...I was lucky... I will re-weld it and reinforce
the weak area... I also looked at a 503 on another Kolb... it was not yet
broken, but the weld had been ground down to make it "pretty" and it did not
look strong. We are going to reinforce that one, too.
See attached picture...
Worth what ye paid fer it...
Beauford
FF-076
Brandon, FL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109244#109244
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/starter_3_956.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/starter_3_102.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford T" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rotax 447 longevity |
Ed:
Whichever oil you use, if you start noticing any extra carbon, my advice
is not to wait... pull that little choke piston out of the Bing and
inspect the rubber in the bottom of it to make sure it is still
seating... I now change that piston every year just because of the
prior carbon problems experienced due to deterioration of that rubber in
the base.
Also, speaking of Rotax longevity, the DAR who was here yesterday
inspecting airplanes pointed out a serious problem with the Rotax rope
starters... can cost a man an engine, possibly even his airplane, with
no warning... Mine was broken and I didn't even realize it... There
is an item about it , with a photo, posted on the Kolb Forum.
Worth what ye paid fer it...
Beauford
Firefly 076
Brandon, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: DAquaNut(at)aol.com
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 1:19 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: rotax 447 longevity
Guys,
Im trying to make a decision. Your input will help me make the right
one. Has any one ran a 447 to 100 hours without a decarbon using
pennzoil? Has anyone had a 447 fail due to carbon under the rings
before reaching 100 hours while using Pennzoil air cooled exclusively?
PLEASE, No oil war! If you have experience That falls in either of
these categories, I would like to have your imput, otherwise please dont
respond. Thanks in advance.
Ed Diebel (FF 62)
**************************************
See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firestar lift struts |
Herb,
((Do you recall the major and minor axis for the streamlined tubing? I
am guessing that they buy it from Mary Carlson.. She has the dies for
two sizes..Herb ))
No I dont recall the sizes I am afraid, I bought it from Wicks, and if I recall
they told me it was the same size that CGS uses on the Hawk.
Probably 3 inchs or so major....but I will measure it next time I get to the hangar
for you.
Steve....the drag reduction you get is pretty significant. And you might consider
a smaller size in steel streamlined tubeing, Could work even better. I Believe
John Hawk told me once he used that on a Firestar with good results. In fact,
As I remember, I got the Idea from him, and after I talked to Dennis Souder
about the reasons for the dual struts in the first place. I had heard that
it was for part 103 compliance and I didnt really believe that, So I called Dennis
and he explained the whole deal to me.
Considering you are hauling around those Pontoon logs, It oughtta help!!
I can tell you this, My FireFly is heavy, and my TOW sometimes is 550lbs and even
at that weight, it will do 90mph WOT with a 2 blade 60 inch IVO set at 6250
static and 6450 WOT inflight. Cruises at a solid 75 around 5600
Naturally thats not all due to the struts, but the combination of struts, ducktail
and enclosure of the cage all around.
I had wheelpants on it for awhile, but they didnt seem to help it anymore. And
when I put Hydraulic brakes on it with bigger tires, I took them off..(wouldnt
fit anymore) didnt seem to notice a speed reduction. Obviously I dont fly it
that fast very often. But when the need arises to show off, It does a good job
of it.
Last summer, I was leaving a fly-in and took off behind an L-2 and a Luscombe.
They were traveling together. I kinda got in that show off mood, and about 5 miles
out from the airfeild, I caught up and passed them. The guy in the Luscombe
joined in and flew with me for a few miles, but the guy in the L2 was left
in the dust! After a while, the guy in the Luscombe called a goodbye on the radio
and went back to find his partner, who was long outta sight, but not out of
radio range. He kept asking the Luscombe pilot...IS that a damn ultralight
up there?????
They talk about that RV grin...but that day I had a Kolb smile that lasted a long,
long time!
--------
Don G
FireFly#098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109254#109254
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Bourne" <biglar(at)gogittum.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flimsy Little Planes |
Riiiiiiiiight ! ! !
On 4/25/07, DAquaNut(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 4/25/2007 6:56:53 AM Central Standard Time,
> biglar(at)gogittum.com writes:
>
>
> Will you be at MV this year ?? Lar. Do
> not Archive.
>
>
> Lar,
>
> We would love to make MV, but we havent made Oshkosh in several
> years and decided on Oshkosh since we cant make both. Maybe next year.
> Maybe you will be flyin by then. It could happen ya know!
>
> Ed
>
>
> **************************************
> See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)AOL.COM |
Hi Steve,
It is standard equipment on the Mosquito XE helicopter.
_http://www.innovator.mosquito.net.nz/mbbs2/_
(http://www.innovator.mosquito.net.nz/mbbs2/)
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of N27SB(at)aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 1:03 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: MZ202
In a message dated 4/25/2007 2:20:05 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
WillUribe(at)aol.com writes:
Hi Larry,
Have you looked at the MZ301 engine? I kinda like the MZ202 for my FireStar.
Check it out;
Will,
Looks interesting, anyone using one of these
steve
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terry <tkrolfe(at)usadatanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Pull Starter Problem |
beauford wrote:
>
>Per the DAR who inspected some airplanes here yesterday, there is a serious problem
with some 2-stroke rope starters... The weld which holds the starter axle
to the stamped steel starter housing breaks loose. This allows the recoil
mechanism to float around in the housing, where it eventually gets off center
enough to make contact with the flywheel assembly, resulting in all manner of
bad outcomes up to and including sudden stoppage, trashing of the engine, loss
of the aircraft, etc.. The minimum to be expected is a significant amount of
expensive damage to the starter and flywheel.
>
>Points he made:
> - inspect the shaft... if it turns when rope is pulled, do not run it or fly
it.
> - Starter can have a broken weld and still work just fine to start engine.
> - If oil injection is installed, end of shaft cannot be seen because it is behind
the injection unit. (remove unit to inspect)
> - Inspect frequently... like every preflight.
>
>Mine, on my 447, is already broken...I was lucky... I will re-weld it and reinforce
the weak area... I also looked at a 503 on another Kolb... it was not
yet broken, but the weld had been ground down to make it "pretty" and it did not
look strong. We are going to reinforce that one, too.
>
>See attached picture...
>Worth what ye paid fer it...
>
>Beauford
>FF-076
>Brandon, FL
>
>
>
Beauford,
I too had the shaft break loose from the housing on my 447 last year.
Lucky I have a friend ( Wilmer) who is our local 2 cycle guru and looks
after us. He pointed it out to me and I had it welded by a pro with Tig
so as to not over heat the spring inside. Holding up fine since. Now
have 646 hr.'s on it and still running strong. He has put 735 hr.'s on
his 503 in 2 1/2 yr.'s with no problems.
Hope the rest of you listen to Beauford and check your starter box
especially if you have lots of hr.'s on it. It's easy to miss it. I did.
Terry - FireFly #95
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Key" <dhkey(at)msn.com> |
I watched about 10 videos and I noticed that the pilots don't go much higher
than 3 feet, is there a good reason for that?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Pull Starter Problem |
In a message dated 4/25/2007 3:30:50 PM Central Standard Time,
beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com writes:
>
> Mine, on my 447, is already broken...I was lucky... I will re-weld it and
> reinforce the weak area... I also looked at a 503 on another Kolb... it was
> not yet broken, but the weld had been ground down to make it "pretty" and it
> did not look strong. We are going to reinforce that one, too.
>
> See attached picture...
> Worth what ye paid fer it...
>
> Beauford
> FF-076
> Brandon, FL
>
> Bill,
> Thanks fo the info. How do you propose to beef if up Is there a way to
weld it on the inside also?
Ed
**************************************
See what's
free at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
Will,
The 2cyl version is interesting because it has a claimed weight of 84 lbs
and includes a gear reduction with a clutch plus a starter. That's only 2 lbs
more than Rotax claims for the 447.
My biggest concern is the fact that it uses a Reed Valve.
It certainly is worth looking into. I saw the little chopper fly at Osh 2
years ago and it was impressive. Their booth was next to Kolb's.
steve b
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford T" <beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Pull Starter Problem |
Bill,
Thanks fo the info. How do you propose to beef if up
Is there a way to weld it on the inside also?
Ed
Ed:
Not completely sure how to fix it until I get time to take it apart and
study it from both sides...Just looking at it, I can imagine at the very
least welding about a 30 or 35 mm steel washer over the outside... more
on that later.
Luckily I have an extra 447, so was able to just slap the starter unit
from that one on there for the inspection... It is interesting, the
other "parts" engine is older than the one on the plane by many
thousands of serial numbers, but the older starter unit looks a lot
beefier... no hole in the middle and a reinforcing disc about the size
of a quarter welded on the outside of the cover where the axle mates on
the inside... They must have had some reason to change it, but
strengthening it does not appear to be that reason...
The DAR painted a rather grim picture of what is reported to have
happened on those occasions when that steel axle breaks free of the
weld, pops out of that shallow little hole and gets jammed sideways in
the flywheel... He said they have all been warned about it and told to
look for broken starter welds as an inspection priority... it was the
first thing he went for when he walked up to the airplane... He had my
undivided attention.
Beauford
FF 076
Brandon FL
----- Original Message -----
From: DAquaNut(at)aol.com
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 8:53 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rotax Pull Starter Problem
In a message dated 4/25/2007 3:30:50 PM Central Standard Time,
beauford(at)tampabay.rr.com writes:
**************************************
See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Kmet" <jlsk1(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 w/oil injection |
Thanks, I ran it for a few min today with the premix, didn`t have time to
run it very long, just enough to bring up temps, & the oil has started to
fill the lines, evrything looks like it will be OK, thanks to everyone for
the help. Also, Richard, how far away from TRI are you & your plane? I`m
in there about Once a month lately, thought I might give you a call. I`m at
SRB
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 582 w/oil injection
>
> If you run it at part throttle with premix AND also pull the oil pump
> cable to max, you can see the air bubbles pulsing through the oil line as
> the pump sucks them out.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 11:39 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: 582 w/oil injection
>
>
>>
>> Hi all, I`m about to fire up a newly overhualed 582 w/oil injection. With
>> everything set up PER rotax sevice manual, when I crank the engine with
>> the
>> electric starter, but with no gas available, shouldn`t I get some oil
>> movement in the lines between the oil injector & the engine crankcase
>> where
>> the oil line attaches to engine? I`m hesitant to put gas in & run the
>> engine with no visible oil movement while cranking at different throttle
>> settings. Everything else ablout the installation looks great & "by the
>> book". Thanks, Jim Kmet
>> MK-3C
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>> If in doubt mix some oil in the gas... at the proper ratio... then
>> after
>> 20 to 30 min look at the level in the oil res,,,, if it has not moved go
>> back to the drawing board,,, if it has gone down drain the premix, check
>> the plugs and filer up. The oil feeds slow enough you may not see it
>> move
>> with only the electric starter. Somewhere I remember that doubling the
>> oil
>> for the first tank is good for the break in period...
>>
>> Boyd
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ElleryWeld(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Flimsy Little Planes |
I have it listed on Barnstormers also you can get more info there but if
theres anything else you would like to know about it let me know it has a new
engine on it and I am flying it as much as posible so the time on it is not
5.5 hrs now its 11.2 hrs
Ellery
**************************************
See what's free at
http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flimsy Little Planes |
| From: | "Dave Rains" <RangeFlyer72(at)yahoo.com> |
Hey Ellery, why does living on the far side of the country preclude you from making
Monument Valley? I read some where that others have flown there toy planes
from sea to shining sea [Shocked] Take John's advice and get some Wal Mart
bags to line your leading edge and you should be just fine! Selling yur plane???
That you will regret....... Looking forward to "looking you in the eye"
John, I keep a sharp stick in my pocket.
Skeeter
N8086T
MV rabble rouser
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109320#109320
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Rains" <RangeFlyer72(at)yahoo.com> |
"I watched about 10 videos and I noticed that the pilots don't go much higher
than 3 feet, is there a good reason for that"?
Yeah, playing for the the crowd and cammera. In some places their area for demostration
is limited, and leaving the area requires clearence. There are many
other videos available on the web site, some showing forward flight.
Skeeter
N8086T[/quote]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109322#109322
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pat ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: A Pilot's View |
----- Original Message -----
From: Bud
Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2007 10:38 AM
Subject: Fw: A Pilot's View
Hi All, not Kolb but definitely flying. This from my mate Bud who used
to be flight engineer in the New Zealand Air Force on Hastings and then
Hercs. We became diving buddies when he waa seconded to the RAF at a
local airfield here in the UK.
Pat.
You will enjoy this one Pat. We used to do a different approach
into strips in Viet Nam, from 20,000 plus straight down in what was
called a 'jet penetration', and then pull a short landing. Really
exciting!! Bud.
C-130 Pilot's Description of Approach into Baghdad
This is a funny story particularly if you lust over mixed
metaphors. This is from a colorful writer from the 3rd Marine Air Wing
based at MCAS Miramar:
There I was at six thousand feet over central Iraq, two hundred
eighty knots and we're dropping faster than Paris Hilton's panties. It's
a typical September evening in the Persian Gulf; hotter than a rectal
thermometer and I'm sweating like a priest at a Cub Scout meeting. But
that's neither here nor there. The night is moonless over Baghdad
tonight, and blacker than a Steven King novel. But its 2006, folks, and
I'm sporting the latest in night-combat technology - namely,
hand-me-down night vision goggles (NVGs) thrown out by the fighter boys.
Additionally, my 1962 Lockheed C-130E Hercules is equipped with an
obsolete, yet, semi-effective missile warning system (MWS). The MWS
conveniently makes a nice soothing tone in your headset just before the
missile explodes into your airplane. Who says you can't polish a turd?
At any rate, the NVGs are illuminating Baghdad International
Airport like the Las Vegas Strip during a Mike Tyson fight. These NVGs
are the cat's ass. But I've digressed. The preferred method of approach
tonight is the random shallow. This tactical maneuver allows the pilot
to ingress the landing zone in an unpredictable manner, thus exploiting
the supposedly secured perimeter of the airfield in an attempt to avoid
enemy surface-to-air-missiles and small arms fire. Personally, I
wouldn't bet my pink ass on that theory but the approach is fun as hell
and that's the real reason we fly it. We get a visual on the runway at
three miles out, drop down to one thousand feet above the ground, still
maintaining two hundred eighty knots. Now the fun starts.
It' s pilot appreciation time as I descend the mighty Herc to six
hundred feet and smoothly, yet very deliberately, yank into a sixty
degree left bank turning the aircraft ninety degrees offset from runway
heading. As soon as we roll out of the turn, I reverse turn to the right
a full two hundred seventy degrees in order to roll out aligned with the
runway. Some aeronautical genius coined this maneuver the
"Ninety/Two-Seventy." Chopping the power during the turn, I pull back on
the yoke just to the point my nether regions start to sag, bleeding off
energy in order to configure the pig for landing. "Flaps Fifty! landing
Gear Down!, Before Landing Checklist!" I look over at the copilot and
he's shaking like a cat shitting on a sheet of ice. Looking further back
at the navigator, and even through the Nags, I can clearly see the wet
spot spreading around his crotch. Finally, I glance at my steely eyed
flight engineer. His eyebrows rise in unison as a grin forms on his
face. I can tell he's thinking the same thing I am .... "Where do we
find such fine young men?" "Flaps One Hundred!" I bark at the shaking
cat. Now it's all aim-point and airspeed. Aviation 101, with the
exception there are no lights, I'm on NVGs its Baghdad, and now tracers
are starting to crisscross the black sky. Naturally, and not at all
surprisingly, I grease the Goodyear's on brick-one of runway 33 left,
bring the throttles to ground idle and then force the props to full
reverse pitch. Tonight, the sound of freedom is my four Hamilton
Standard propellers chewing through the thick, putrid, Baghdad air. The
huge, one hundred forty-thousand pound, lumbering whisper pig comes to a
lurching stop in less than two thousand feet. Let's see a Viper do that!
We exit the runway to a welcoming committee of government issued
Army grunts It's time to download their beans and bullets and letters
from their sweethearts, look for war booty, and of course, urinate on
Saddam 's home. Walking down the crew entry steps with my lowest-bidder,
Beretta 92F, 9 millimeter strapped smartly to my side, look around and
thank God, not Allah I'm an American and I'm on the winning team. Then I
thank God I'm not in the Army.
Knowing once again I've cheated death, I ask myself, "What in the
hell am I doing in this mess?" Is it Duty, Honor, and Country? You bet
your ass. Or could it possibly be for the glory, the swag, and not to
mention, chicks dig the Air Medal. There's probably some truth there
too. But now is not the time to derive the complexities of the superior,
cerebral properties of the human portion of the aviator-man-machine
model. It is however, time to get out of this hole. Hey copilot how's
'bout the 'Before Starting Engines Checklist."
God, I love this job! Semper Fidelis
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
See what's free at AOL.com.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
24/04/2007 17:43
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flimsy Little Planes |
| From: | "Dave Rains" <RangeFlyer72(at)yahoo.com> |
Yeah Ellery, work sucks sometimes. I wanted to make sun&fun, but no time. When
Will and I flew to Oregon and back, I had taken 30 days vacation to do it, just
in case. Perhaps you could plan for next year, trailer the Kolb, or.....
I plan to do a factory build on the Mosquito sometime in late August, they are
located in Florida. I would sure like to see your projects, and perhaps give
you a chance at retribution.
Skeeter.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109339#109339
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Sorry, OFF topic - BUT A new East coast Hang Glider Record |
was set today...
Hi All
I just learned that 2 flex wing HangGlider pilots just Broke the east
coast cross country record of 218 miles and were still in the air
attempting to break the current Rigid Wing record of 234 miles...
Flexi and Rigids are both Hanggliders... A Flexi is usually made of
Alum (Tubes some times Carbon) and is controlled by Weight shift ...
A Rigid wing is made of Carbon fiber D cells and is much stiffer ....
It's controlled by Spoilers on it's wings Upper surface...... A Rigids
L/D
is about 5 points better than the Best Topless Flex wings being
produced... But that Gap is closing... 8-)
The two are shooting for at least 300 miles but even if they reach
that the World record will still held by Mike Barber who flew over 400
miles
(434 I think) in TEXAS....
The two were Towed up from Quest flight park in Clearmont FL Just NW
of Orlando and last report t were past Jessup GA with cloud base around
7,000 ft and a cloud street going to the horizon...
Will report their final distance once the day shuts down.... BTW that
7,000 foot cloud base equates to about a 20 mile glide Not
counting the Tail wind.. 8-) AND if the Cloud street is really working
the two could be hitting speeds over 60 miles per hour...
Stay tuned...
Mark Vaughn
________________________________________________________________________
from AOL at AOL.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Noyer <a58r(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sorry, OFF topic - BUT A new East coast Hang Glider Record |
was set today...
archived?
regards,
Bob N. FireFly 070 Old Kolb
http://www.angelfire.com/rpg/ronoy/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flimsy Little Planes |
| From: | "Dave Rains" <RangeFlyer72(at)yahoo.com> |
Ah, the Highlander. Very nice design! Putting a 912S in it? Should make a very
nice bush plane. I spent considerable time looking at their design at Copperstate
last year, what I saw was impressive. Is the kit well made? Any surprises?
Seriously, all work and no play should be avoided. I considered building
a Kolbra, but decided I wanted to try something new. I can't afford more
than two aircraft at a time, and didn't want two fixed wing. Sure caught a lot
of crooks with the Kolb though.......
Skeeter.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109440#109440
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: GPS and flying in the wind |
Steven,
I bought my Garmin 196 used on ebay last year for 500 bucks...go check there.
And BTW....after useing it on the first flight, I would have paid double if I had
known what it would do, and how easy it is to use.
--------
Don G
FireFly#098
http://www.geocities.com/dagger369th/my_firefly.htm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109453#109453
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | A New! East Coast XC Hang Glider Record |
To UPDATE those who are interested ..
Yesterday 2 HangGlider Pilots Jonny Durand & Dustin Martin Broke the
East Coast XC Record of ( 218 miles for Flexwings ) & ( 234 miles For
Rigid wing ) flying their Moyes Lightspeed and WW T2 Flex wing Hang
Gliders ...
The two were towed to altitude out of the Quest Air flight park in
Clearmont, FL and flew an amazing 283 miles landing near Sylvania
Georgia, which is just south of the South Carolina Border...
CONGRATS to them both....
Truly An amazing flight when you consider the ocean of trees and
swamps they had to cross to make it happen...
Sorry for the Break in Topic but felt it was a News Worthy Event ...
Mark Vaughn
-----Original Message-----
From: knowvne(at)aol.com
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thu, 26 Apr 2007 6:28 PM
Subject: Sorry, OFF topic - BUT A new East coast Hang Glider Record
was set today...
Hi All
I just learned that 2 flex wing HangGlider pilots just Broke the east
coast cross country record of 218 miles and were still in the air
attempting to break the current Rigid Wing record of 234 miles...
Flexi and Rigids are both Hanggliders... A Flexi is usually made of
Alum (Tubes some times Carbon) and is controlled by Weight shift ...
A Rigid wing is made of Carbon fiber D cells and is much stiffer ....
It's controlled by Spoilers on it's wings Upper surface...... A Rigids
L/D
is about 5 points better than the Best Topless Flex wings being
produced... But that Gap is closing... 8-)
The two are shooting for at least 300 miles but even if they reach
that the World record will still held by Mike Barber who flew over 400
miles
(434 I think) in TEXAS....
The two were Towed up from Quest flight park in Clearmont FL Just NW
of Orlando and last report t were past Jessup GA with cloud base around
7,000 ft and a cloud street going to the horizon...
Will report their final distance once the day shuts down.... BTW that
7,000 foot cloud base equates to about a 20 mile glide Not
counting the Tail wind.. 8-) AND if the Cloud street is really
working the two could be hitting speeds over 60 miles per hour...
Stay tuned...
Mark Vaughn
________________________________________________________________________
from AOL at AOL.com.
________________________________________________________________________
from AOL at AOL.com.
=0
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| From: | "Vic Peters" <vicsvinyl(at)verizon.net> |
Ellery, Ellery, Ellery,
You should have known Skeeters ain't out here yet and when they are,
we just squash the little suckers!
All in fun
Vic
Maine
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| From: | Blumax008(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: A New! East Coast XC Hang Glider Record |
In a message dated 4/27/2007 9:01:34 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
knowvne(at)aol.com writes:
Sorry for the Break in Topic but felt it was a News Worthy Event ...
After tons of boring repetitive crap...any break is worth it. Guess that big
fire helped a lot on the thermals.
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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| Subject: | Re: Sport pilot license |
| From: | "John H Murphy" <jhm9812(at)yahoo.com> |
The C-150 does not meet the requirements of gross weight of 1320 lbs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109534#109534
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| From: | "Jimmy" <jhankin(at)planters.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sport pilot license |
Wayne,
I would be very glad to know more about that class, please let me know more
of the details when you have them.
How is your Kobra coming?
Jimmy Hankinson
912-863-7384
Firefly #035, (N6007L)
JYL (Sylvania)
Pegasus Field (Home)
2000 Feet X 100 Feet- Grass
Rocky Ford, Georgia
--
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| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GPS and flying in the wind |
All things considered I don't know what would top the 2000c however I
would certainly like to know what others have found.
|
| Ken Gardner
Ken:
I don't know about others, but I have thoroughly enjoyed flying with
my Garmin 196. It has proven to be an invaluable aid, making my long
cross country flights a lot safer, and more fun.
April 13, 2007 - April 27, 2007
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-gr