Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-hw

December 08, 2008 - December 19, 2008



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From: <apilot(at)surewest.net>
Subject: Re: VG affect on stall
Date: Dec 08, 2008
To insure that the tips keep flying while the root stalls is why I only used VG's from the wing tips to the inboard end of the flaps. That leaves a good bit of mid wing to stall first. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: HShack(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 08, 2008
Subject: Re: VG affect on stall
I no longer have the drawing, but perhaps brother Cottrell or Beauford has a copy to send you. Before I learned a little about my computer, I snail-mailed about 50 drawings. Later, emailed about 200. It got to be too much. Now, an outfit called _www.landshorter.com_ (http://www.landshorter.com) has a nice setup for about $100 [so I'm told]. VG's give you the most bang for the buck I can imagine. Worth a C note & a couple hours. Howard Shackleford FS II SC In a message dated 12/8/2008 8:08:15 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, grant_richardson25(at)yahoo.com writes: Howard, Do you have a drawing for your Vgs? **************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one place. Try it now. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
From: "grantr" <grant_richardson25(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 08, 2008
That almost seems impossible. How did you only loss 100 feet in a 180o turn? What I read suggest making a 45o turn at best glide speed to lose the least altitude in a 180o turn. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218285#218285 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
Date: Dec 08, 2008
> What I read suggest making a 45o turn at best glide speed to lose the least altitude in a 180o turn. Grant: You are saying, "45 degree turn" and I think you mean "45 degree bank". There are a whole lot of varibles when it comes to gliding turns and altitude loss. The faster you are flying when you begin the glide has a lot to do with how much altitude will be lost. Also, how aggressive you turn will make a big difference. A Kolb will turn on its wing tip, or so it seems when you really honk it around using a lot of up elevator in a steep bank. I haven't flown in almost three months. Next time I fly, probably tomorrow, if I can get the 912 cranked and knock off most of the dust, bug crap, ect, I'll see what my altitude loss is in a 180 degree turn with a dead stick. Dead stick will produce less altitude loss than an idling prop. Good flying weather at hauck's holler, alabama, this afternoon, but I don't know about tomorrow. Take care, john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 08, 2008
From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
At 02:21 PM 12/8/2008, apilot(at)surewest.net wrote: >You may be able to reduce the altitude loss with practice. My guess is >that your plane can make a successful 180 degree turn without losing over >100 feet of altitude. My best in a Cessna 150 was 100 feet and the best >in a PA-11 Cub was 50 feet. Practicing the technique is a worthwhile effort. 100' and 50' seems awfully low, unless you have a good bit of energy (speed) at the start... from what starting condition? There's also reaction time. I figure 250' in my Ultrastar, sudden power loss from a normal (i.e. low airspeed) climb... I use 300' to be safe. -Dana -- We have enough youth; how about a Fountain of Smart? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
Date: Dec 08, 2008
My guess is a hastily begun step angle turn would yield the best results. Less exposure time to drag. Sure easy to prove but I'm not going to do it today. BB On 8, Dec 2008, at 4:04 PM, grantr wrote: > > > That almost seems impossible. How did you only loss 100 feet in a > 180o turn? > > What I read suggest making a 45o turn at best glide speed to lose > the least altitude in a 180o turn. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218285#218285 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
Date: Dec 08, 2008
steep angle (bank) On 8, Dec 2008, at 5:29 PM, robert bean wrote: > > My guess is a hastily begun step angle turn would yield the best > results. Less exposure time to drag. > > Sure easy to prove but I'm not going to do it today. > BB > > On 8, Dec 2008, at 4:04 PM, grantr wrote: > >> >> >> That almost seems impossible. How did you only loss 100 feet in a >> 180o turn? >> >> What I read suggest making a 45o turn at best glide speed to lose >> the least altitude in a 180o turn. >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218285#218285 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 08, 2008
From: possums <possums(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
At 04:50 PM 12/8/2008, you wrote: >>You may be able to reduce the altitude loss with practice. My >>guess is that your plane can make a successful 180 degree turn >>without losing over 100 feet of altitude. My best in a Cessna 150 >>was 100 feet and the best in a PA-11 Cub was 50 feet. Practicing >>the technique is a worthwhile effort. > >100' and 50' seems awfully low, unless you have a good bit of energy >(speed) at the start... from what starting condition? There's also >reaction time. I figure 250' in my Ultrastar, sudden power loss >from a normal (i.e. low airspeed) climb... I use 300' to be safe. > >-Dana >-- I can do a full turn in a spin and lose less than 300 ft. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 08, 2008
From: possums <possums(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
At 06:45 PM 12/8/2008, you wrote: > >I can do a full turn in a spin and lose less than 300 ft. See: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=897400447222498104&hl=en ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 08, 2008
From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
At 06:45 PM 12/8/2008, possums wrote: >I can do a full turn in a spin and lose less than 300 ft. Not a recommended maneuver after and engine failure on takeoff though... :) -Dana -- Hard work has a future payoff. Laziness pays off now. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
From: "grantr" <grant_richardson25(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 08, 2008
John, Yes I meant 45o bank not turn. [Wink] Please do let us know how much you loss in an engine out 180. I don't have the nerve to kill a perfectly good running engine yet. My test was for the purpose of determining how high i would need to be to turn back to the runway if I had an engine failure on take off. The 300 feet lost was from entering the turn to exiting wings level. I know it will take a little more during a turn back due to the fact a 180 will not have the plane aligned with the runway. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218359#218359 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: El Paso, Texas
From: "Dave Rains" <RangeFlyer72(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 08, 2008
[quote="pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com"]You are both still ugly.... > and that there ain't a Kolb..>> True! But we're happy! :D Skeeter -------- Dave Rains N8086T Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218363#218363 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
Date: Dec 08, 2008
> I don't have the nerve to kill a perfectly good running engine yet. > > My test was for the purpose of determining how high i would need to be to > turn back to the runway if I had an engine failure on take off. > > The 300 feet lost was from entering the turn to exiting wings level. I > know it will take a little more during a turn back due to the fact a 180 > will not have the plane aligned with the runway. Grant: Turning back to the runway kills lot of good folks. This maneuver introduces a lot more ways to hurt your airplane and yourself. My first engine out, in a fixed wing, was my Ultrastar. I was so dead set on getting back to where I had come from, I mushed the little Ultrastar in, experiencing a very hard landing. Engine quit dead about 100 feet on takeoff. In my effort to get turned around, I did not see the several thousand feet of taxiway almost directly in front of me. Hard maneuvering with a dead engine during an emergency situation makes it so easy to try to turn harder than the plane will fly, and try to stretch the glide by slowing down airspeed. All the previous are inviting a stall, spin accident. I think I will shoot straight ahead, deviating left or right to make the best landing I can. My primary purpose is to survive with as little damage to me as possible. The airplane can be repaired or replaced if necessary. Flying off a "real" airport, always us all of the runway, whether 3,000 feet or 6,000 feet. At the rate our Kolbs climb, and the speed they climb, there is generally always room to land if you experience an engine out on takeoff. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 08, 2008
From: "beauford T" <beauford173(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: VG affect on stall
...Brother Davis... Yessir, the Kleenex Kolb is a FireFly... True, the wing is a tad abbreviated, but there is an upside -- it rides well in the chop while the long-wing sissies are getting the living hell pounded out of them in the same stuff. The little Nazi engine is indeed a 447... when it deigns to function, it climbs the Fly in a sprightly manner, despite my gradually accumulated bulk. With the IVO pitched for climb and the carb needle jacked up a notch to keep up with the brutal 65 degree temps we have been experiencing here in west Fla this past week, I reckon it did at least 800 fpm or so, turning 6350 rpm in the climb...Back in the summer in the heat, I experimented with setting the prop at a more leisurely 6100 to see if fuel endurance would improve, but it climbed like a Chevy Suburban with low tires, so I reverted to the climb pitch setting... We are both happier there... The single most noteworthy improvement I see from the VGs on the Fly wing is the ability to execute a power-off flare in ground effect from a 50 IAS glide without blowing out the bottom like a bowling ball through a wet newspaper... the VG's add just enough extra lift at that critical point to make it safe and fun... otherwise, needed 55 in the glide and mebbe a touch of power at the flare... I predict that you will learn to really like the drooping ailerons.... I think they make a big difference in the ground effect operations of this short-winged little airplane. One thing: You did not mention your height... Am considering hiring a private contractor with appropriate equipment to sling-load me in and out of the Fly, despite the fact that I skip breakfast and scrupulously empty my pockets of car-keys, gas station receipts, excess change, ball-point pens, the spare Arturo Fuente and the little remove-before-flight tag from the BRS prior to attempting the dreaded FireFly mount or dismount. Negotiating one's feet safely around the windshield, whilst simultaneously suspending one's flabby butt in midair over the seat with both hands on the siderails and a deeply veined purple face, is a real crowd-pleaser.... Upon landing, I have been known to feign illness, or a drunken stupor, and sit quietly in place in the airplane until the onlookers lost interest and melted away before attempting it. I don't know how long your legs are, but I recommend you consider an enlarged windshield cut-out on the right side. Saves public humiliation.... until one returns home, anyway... Good luck with your Fly, sir... bucolic beauford FF-076 Brandon, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: chris davis To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 6:34 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: VG affect on stall Beauford, Did you say you weigh 220 and from your signature FF it appears that you fly a FireFly is that correct? I weigh about 215 and am building a FireFly and I was a bit concerned about that short wing ! Before my accident I only weighed 190 and was flying a Firestar with a 503 and that bird had a lot of wing . If what I determined about your signature is correct , how does it do? do you have a 447? how many feet per min does it climb at ? Sorry about all these questions but there are not many people that fly FireFlys on the list especially not " Bloated" ones . Thank you in advance for any info you could give me . Chris ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: beauford T <beauford173(at)verizon.net> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com ----- Original Message ----- 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com>
Subject: HKS 700 E
Date: Dec 08, 2008
Guys, and Cristal, I have completed the installation of a HKS 700 E to my Firestar II. Well actually I still have to hook up the tach and install two switches for the mags and add oil before I can fire it up. I am also waiting on a quick connect oil drain valve to put on the bottom of the oil tank. It should be here in a few days. As you can see there are a pile of wires and stuff all over the top of the engine, but at least every thing is contained on top of the engine. I made these pictures small for the band width challenged. If any one would like more detailed ( larger size let me know and I will send them back channel) I purchased the engine from Jerry Olenik of Green Sky Adventures in Hawthorne Fl. I cannot stress enough how well he has treated me. I am not by nature and inclination to be mechanically inclined. In fact if I get grease on my hands I count the whole day as a failure. He took the time to answer any and all of my questions to guide me through a very traumatic experience. :-) Jerry has all the parts and modifications needed to mount one of these engines on a Kolb as well as worked out all the quirks and little things that you need for the installation. If any of you decide to go four stroke, you could not do better than Green Sky. I do think that there should be a "HKS for Dummies" manual since both Jerry and HKS only hit the high spots and leave some of the other stuff unexplained. However Jerry never complained when I called for an explanation of where this or that goes. The great flying weather has of course departed for regions a lot further south. ( Yes Beauford, my heart bleeds for you, imagine having to endure 65 degree weather, how terrible) Perhaps it will get warm enough to get a few tests in to see the difference between this one and a 503. I of course will have to do a weight and balance first, but I hope to have it in the air soon. Larry C ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 08, 2008
From: possums <possums(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: VG affect on stall
At 08:11 PM 12/8/2008, you wrote: >...Brother Davis... >One thing: You did not mention your height... Am considering hiring >a private contractor with appropriate equipment to sling-load me in >and out of the Fly, despite the fact that I skip breakfast and >scrupulously empty my pockets of car-keys, gas station receipts, >excess change, ball-point pens, the spare Arturo Fuente and the >little remove-before-flight tag from the BRS prior to attempting the >dreaded FireFly mount or dismount. Negotiating one's feet safely >around the windshield, whilst simultaneously suspending one's flabby >butt in midair over the seat with both hands on the siderails and a >deeply veined purple face, is a real crowd-pleaser.... Upon >landing, I have been known to feign illness, or a drunken stupor, >and sit quietly in place in the airplane until the onlookers lost >interest and melted away before attempting it. I don't know how >long your legs are, but I recommend you consider an enlarged >windshield cut-out on the right side. Saves public humiliation.... >until one returns home, anyway... > > >bucolic beauford I'm thinking you need the "Geezer Lift Chair" option for you Firefly. http://www.spinlife.com/Uplift-Technologies-UPEASY-Power-Uplift-Seat-Assists/spec.cfm?productID=73225 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: VG affect on stall
From: "Dave Bigelow" <up_country(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 08, 2008
With the Landshorter VG's installed on my Firestar as recommended by Landshorter, the stall is more abrubt than without the VG's. Without the VG's there is no classic stall with a break, but more of a mush that started at 40 mph indicated airspeed with my Firestar. Slow flight below 40 mph was not possible, and final needed to be flown at 50-55 mph (power off) to avoid a hard landing during the flare. After VG installation, control was rock solid and responsive right down to the stall, which takes place at about 30 mph wings level unaccelerated. There is no pre-stall buffet, and the break is distinct, much like that of a sailplane with laminar flow wing. With VG's, final can be flown as low as 40 mph power off with sufficient energy to flare without a hard landing. There is nothing dangerous or radical about the stall with VG's, but it not as forgiving as without VG's. My recommendation for a low time pilot new to Kolbs is to get some hours on your new plane without VG's, and then install them after reaching a reasonable level of proficiency. -------- Dave Bigelow Kamuela, Hawaii FS2, HKS 700E Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218396#218396 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
From: "grantr" <grant_richardson25(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 08, 2008
John, Thanks for the advice. I do use the entire runway each time I fly and I don't plan on turning back unless I have plenty of altitude say 700 + and no other options. Looking at the end of runway 23 or 27 there are no good options that I would consider safe to try to land in. Fairly dense tall trees, houses and large power lines! 27 is 3600 feet and 23 is 6000 so I never use 27/9. Each time I make my departure I am constantly observing the runway left over ahead of me and any other option to the left and right of me and thinking what would I do if the engine quit now. I do the same when I am away from the airport flying over the fields and trees. I know making that turn under the stress of losing the engine will not be the same as practicing the turn at altitude. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218397#218397 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: HKS 700 E
From: "grantr" <grant_richardson25(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 08, 2008
Larry, Did you trade in a used engine for the HKS engine or is this a new plane? It looks nice! I would like a 4 cycle at some point. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218398#218398 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com>
Subject: Re: HKS 700 E
Date: Dec 08, 2008
Yes, I traded in a 447 that originally came with the plane when I bought it in 1997. Without a muffler he gave me 800.00 for the engine. This is my third engine on the Firestar, and I have 447 hours on the plane. I sold the 503 to another pilot in Wash. Another point of interest regarding the change is that I had an EIS model 2000 which is a two stroke model. I sent it in to Grand Rapids Tech and they changed it to a four stroke model and supplied the CHT,EGT, Oil temps as well as the oil PSI for a very reasonable price. I really liked the 503 and didn't really make the change because I was afraid that it would fail. It was the fuel consumption that got me. Four gallons an hour at 64 mph is just not enough to go anywhere, and where I live every where is a long way off. I made the trip to Texas by putting an extra 10 gallons of gas in the back seat, but had no room for much else. If you pencil it out, you will save enough money with the fuel savings and the rebuild (300 hours if you follow Rotax recommendations) to more than pay for the HKS. Rebuild on the HKS is 1000 hours. I should be too feeble to either pass my BFR or get into the plane even with a "Geezer lift", before it needs the rebuild. Larry C ----- Original Message ----- From: grantr To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 8:39 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: HKS 700 E Larry, Did you trade in a used engine for the HKS engine or is this a new plane? It looks nice! I would like a 4 cycle at some point. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218398#218398 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 12/8/2008 6:16 PM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
Date: Dec 09, 2008
Turning back to the runway kills lot of good folks.>> Hi John, One Christmas Day many years ago when I had been learning to glide for about a couple of months this happened. A friend who joined the club at the same time that I did strapped into our old tandem seat Slingsby trainer. The instructor was in the back and they were practicing `cable breaks`. For those with no gliding experience. We were pulled into the air by an old Allard sports car. The piano wire launch cable broke about every 4th launch. Learning `cable breaks` was the gliding equivalent of `engine failure`in the powered flying world. The last thing anyone heard was the instructor sasying "OK Now Safety above everything`. The Allard pulled away and the glider trundled down the runway and into the air. At around 500 feet the instructor pulled the bung and detached the cable to simulate a cable break. At that point the glider had a mile of runway ahead and cracking the brakes and landing straight ahead was the obvious drill. To the surprise of the watchers on the ground, the glider turned back through 180 degrees. Even then it would have been OK. He could have landed downwind with no trouble BUT.. when he got abreast of the launch point he tried to turn back into wind. By this time he was low and was afraid to put his wing down so he banked slightly and put in a bootful of rudder, skidded into the turn and of course the inside wing stalled, the plane dropped into an incipient spin for about 50 feet and dived straight into the tarmac. The pupil was killed outright. The instructor lingered a couple of days and then died. No one knows what happened. Presumably the pupil froze on the controls and the instructor couldn`t over ride him. Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 2008
From: "Jean PILLAUDIN" <jean.pillaudin(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
From: "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 09, 2008
Kolbers, The time to turn an airplane depends primarily on the bank angle of the turn and the airspeed being flown. It is a mathematical relationship that is a function of the tangent of the angle of bank. Attached is an image of a spreadsheet table I put together to show this relationship at various airspeeds and bank angles. The first table shows the turn radius (not diameter) in feet for a given bank angle and airspeed. The second table uses this data to derive the time in seconds to make a turn of 270 degrees. I used 270 degrees because to get back to the runway you have to turn 180 to get the right heading but then you are two radii away from the runway so then you have to keep turning, say another 45 degrees then turn back 45 degrees to get re-aligned with the runway, for a total of 270 degrees of turning. The third table takes the second tables data and ASSUMING a 600 FPM descent rate, calculates the loss of altitude in the 270 degree turn. NOTE: This is not a recommendation for or against turning back to the runway at any time. It is simply showing the mathematical relationship amongst bank angle, true airspeed, time to turn and altitude lost in doing so. -------- Thom Riddle CFI-SP Power Plant Mechanic N1208P RANS S6S, Tailwheel, 912UL N197BG FS1/447 -------------------- Scratch any cynic, he said, and youll find a disappointed idealist. George Carlin Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218444#218444 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/turnback_182.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
From: "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 09, 2008
I did not use very steep bank angles in the previous table posted so I am posting another with steeper bank angles, for your amusement and perhaps amazement. -------- Thom Riddle CFI-SP Power Plant Mechanic N1208P RANS S6S, Tailwheel, 912UL N197BG FS1/447 -------------------- Scratch any cynic, he said, and youll find a disappointed idealist. George Carlin Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218446#218446 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/steepturnback_329.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 2008
From: "Richard Girard" <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: HKS 700 E
Larry, I have an HKS on my trike and I love it, especially the fuel consumption. Another is the noise level, or rather the lack or it.I strongly suggest you review section 5 of the Installation Manual with respect to mounting the oil tank and the caution about the oil cooler mounting. Rick On Mon, Dec 8, 2008 at 8:12 PM, Larry Cottrell wrote: > Guys, and Cristal, > I have completed the installation of a HKS 700 E to my Firestar II. Well > actually I still have to hook up the tach and install two switches for the > mags and add oil before I can fire it up. I am also waiting on a quick > connect oil drain valve to put on the bottom of the oil tank. It should be > here in a few days. > > > As you can see there are a pile of wires and stuff all over the top of the > engine, but at least every thing is contained on top of the engine. I made > these pictures small for the band width challenged. If any one would like > more detailed ( larger size let me know and I will send them back channel) > > I purchased the engine from Jerry Olenik of Green Sky Adventures in > Hawthorne Fl. I cannot stress enough how well he has treated me. I am not by > nature and inclination to be mechanically inclined. In fact if I get grease > on my hands I count the whole day as a failure. He took the time to answer > any and all of my questions to guide me through a very traumatic experience. > :-) Jerry has all the parts and modifications needed to mount one of these > engines on a Kolb as well as worked out all the quirks and little things > that you need for the installation. If any of you decide to go four > stroke, you could not do better than Green Sky. I do think that there should > be a "HKS for Dummies" manual since both Jerry and HKS only hit the high > spots and leave some of the other stuff unexplained. However Jerry never > complained when I called for an explanation of where this or that goes. > > The great flying weather has of course departed for regions a lot further > south. ( Yes Beauford, my heart bleeds for you, imagine having to endure 65 > degree weather, how terrible) Perhaps it will get warm enough to get a few > tests in to see the difference between this one and a 503. I of course will > have to do a weight and balance first, but I hope to have it in the air > soon. > > Larry C > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com>
Subject: Re: HKS 700 E
Date: Dec 09, 2008
----- Original Message ----- From: Richard Girard To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2008 7:07 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: HKS 700 E Larry, I have an HKS on my trike and I love it, especially the fuel consumption. Another is the noise level, or rather the lack or it. I strongly suggest you review section 5 of the Installation Manual with respect to mounting the oil tank and the caution about the oil cooler mounting. Rick Actually I already did and asked Jerry about whether or not to mount the oil tank above the cooler. He said it was not necessary. I am not real sure how you could accomplish such a feat with the Firestar? Larry ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
Date: Dec 09, 2008
> I did not use very steep bank angles in the previous table posted so I am > posting another with steeper bank angles, for your amusement and perhaps > amazement. > Thom Riddle Thom: Are these Kolb numbers, or a generalization? I'm not surprised at the results of steep bank angles and higher airspeeds. I believe I mentioned in a previous email, agressive turns take less time and use less altitude. The problem with that maneuver is attaining and maintaining the increased airspeed at low altitudes, and how hard can I crank it around, at very low altitudes, without stalling. If I get a chance to fly today, I will practice some of this stuff at altitude to see how it works out. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
From: "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 09, 2008
John H, The first two tables are mathematical relationships that are independent of the airplane being flown. This means that the turn radius and time to turn are the same for any airplane at these bank angle and airspeed combinations. Ever notice how big a radius it takes to turn a jet fighter flying at high speed? It takes many miles to turn around at high speed, even in a near 90 degree bank angle. Ever wonder why gyroplanes (and helicopters for that mater) can turn on a dime? Because of their very low speed capability. At higher speeds they cannot turn so quickly or in such short distances. It is pure math. The third table, ASSUMES a 600 FPM descent rate. This table depends upon that assumption. If your airplane descends at a different rate then the altitude loss numbers will differ linearly. In other words if your airplane descends at say 450 FPM then the altitude loss will be 3/4 of those in the table shown for a 600 FPM descent rate. -------- Thom Riddle CFI-SP Power Plant Mechanic N1208P RANS S6S, Tailwheel, 912UL N197BG FS1/447 -------------------- Scratch any cynic, he said, and youll find a disappointed idealist. George Carlin Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218459#218459 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
Date: Dec 09, 2008
My Aeronca chief, when experimenting this series of turns, would eat up a lot of energy in a hurry. It wasn't very good without the prop helping it around. Straight ahead glide wasn't too bad. The MkIII, to my pleasant surprise, seems much happier in a steep turn. I gave demo rides this past summer to a couple of young lads and did steep bank turns to show what a small circle we could turn. The extra passenger load made little difference. Pretty amazing. BB On 9, Dec 2008, at 9:24 AM, John Hauck wrote: > > >> I did not use very steep bank angles in the previous table posted >> so I am posting another with steeper bank angles, for your >> amusement and perhaps amazement. > >> Thom Riddle > > > Thom: > > Are these Kolb numbers, or a generalization? > > I'm not surprised at the results of steep bank angles and higher > airspeeds. I believe I mentioned in a previous email, agressive > turns take less time and use less altitude. The problem with that > maneuver is attaining and maintaining the increased airspeed at low > altitudes, and how hard can I crank it around, at very low > altitudes, without stalling. > > If I get a chance to fly today, I will practice some of this stuff > at altitude to see how it works out. > > john h > mkIII > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
Date: Dec 09, 2008
Ever wonder why gyroplanes (and helicopters for that mater) can turn on a dime? Because of their very low speed capability. At higher speeds they cannot turn so quickly or in such short distances. It is pure math. > Thom Riddle Thom: Helicopters are much more adept at making 180s than fixed wing. The primary reason, rotary wing aircraft build rotor rpm in turns. The tighter the turn, the more rotor rpm. Sometimes it took quite a bit of collective to prevent overspeed and maintain rotor rpm in the green. Very low speeds during autorotation will prove hazardous to your health in a helicoper. The Army helicopters I flew were amazingly agile. They handled quick turns and steep bank angles quite well. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
Date: Dec 09, 2008
> The MkIII, to my pleasant surprise, seems much happier in a steep turn. > I gave demo rides > this past summer to a couple of young lads and did steep bank turns to > show what a small circle we could turn. > The extra passenger load made little difference. Pretty amazing. > BB Bob B: You are quite right. It took a pretty good sized passenger in the the factory MKIII to get into an accelerated stall during demonstrations. That, of course, was in the clean configuration, no flaps. During a demo in my mkIII a few years ago at Lakeland, I blanked out the elevators during a hard pull up with full flaps. Would not do it clean, but with full flaps, the elevators went away. This caused me to be a lot mor cautious during steep approaches and landings with full flaps. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
Date: Dec 09, 2008
(those demo turns were WITH power) :) BB On 9, Dec 2008, at 9:49 AM, robert bean wrote: > > My Aeronca chief, when experimenting this series of turns, would > eat up a lot of energy in a hurry. > It wasn't very good without the prop helping it around. Straight > ahead glide wasn't too bad. > > The MkIII, to my pleasant surprise, seems much happier in a steep > turn. I gave demo rides > this past summer to a couple of young lads and did steep bank turns > to show what a small circle we could turn. > The extra passenger load made little difference. Pretty amazing. > BB > > On 9, Dec 2008, at 9:24 AM, John Hauck wrote: > >> >> >> >>> I did not use very steep bank angles in the previous table posted >>> so I am posting another with steeper bank angles, for your >>> amusement and perhaps amazement. >> >>> Thom Riddle >> >> >> >> Thom: >> >> Are these Kolb numbers, or a generalization? >> >> I'm not surprised at the results of steep bank angles and higher >> airspeeds. I believe I mentioned in a previous email, agressive >> turns take less time and use less altitude. The problem with that >> maneuver is attaining and maintaining the increased airspeed at >> low altitudes, and how hard can I crank it around, at very low >> altitudes, without stalling. >> >> If I get a chance to fly today, I will practice some of this stuff >> at altitude to see how it works out. >> >> john h >> mkIII >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
From: "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 09, 2008
John H, You bring up a good point. The tables I posted assume 1 G flight because the original question was about turning back with engine out. In a descending turn without power or attempt to hold altitude it is easy enough to maintain 1 G or less. What gets a lot of airplane pilots in trouble is pulling back on the stick during a power out descending turn in the vain hope that some magic will be performed. The vast majority of CFIs and the FAA pubs teach that Gs increase in high banked turns. Of course this is true if you are maintaining altitude. In a power out situation any attempt to maintain altitude in an airplane will eventually result in exceeding the critical angle of attack and a stall. The trick to quick descending power out turns in an airplane is maintaining 1 G or less loading. If this is done you can get turned around pretty quickly at slow speeds. Load it up with back stick and you are asking for a stall/spin fatality. -------- Thom Riddle CFI-SP Power Plant Mechanic N1208P RANS S6S, Tailwheel, 912UL N197BG FS1/447 -------------------- Scratch any cynic, he said, and youll find a disappointed idealist. George Carlin Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218470#218470 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Arksey(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 09, 2008
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
Hi gang, I learned to fly in a J-3 back in 1946, we were taught to go straight ahead if we had engine failure on take off...later on i had a engine fail on takeoff in a J-3, I never thought about trying to turn around to the runway which was a farm field. I went about straight ahead into a pasture and the plane was ok, I was lucky to have that field there, I had veered slightly to the right on take off because there was a woods straight ahead, good thing i did. You need to remember stall speeds go up in turns. I wonder how many on this list have made a 180 on take off after losing a engine and survived and if so from what altitude? I also wonder how many have stalled and crashed or killed themselves trying it? As for me if I lose a engine on my firestar on take off I will go straight ahead no matter what unless i have 6 to 7 hundred feet. Hope this info saves someone's life.... do not archive jim swan FS ll 503 michigan **************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one place. Try it now. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
Date: Dec 09, 2008
Hi Jim S: Good to hear you are still alive and kicking in the cold country, or have y ou migrated with the other snow bird from Michigan to Florida? Your IP probably knew what he was talking about. Not much has changed from then to now. Gravity is still in charge. john h mkIII-Too windy to fly today, especially after a 2.5 month lay off. 67F I learned to fly in a J-3 back in 1946, we were taught to go straight ahead jim swan FS ll 503 michigan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 2008
From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
At 09:43 AM 12/9/2008, Thom Riddle wrote: >The third table, ASSUMES a 600 FPM descent rate. This table depends upon >that assumption. If your airplane descends at a different rate then the >altitude loss numbers will differ linearly. In other words if your >airplane descends at say 450 FPM then the altitude loss will be 3/4 of >those in the table shown for a 600 FPM descent rate. Without checking the numbers, it looks right. However, I question the assumption of a constant 600fpm descent rate. In a steep turn, the descent rate will increase quite a bit. Of course, there's also reaction time, and time to push the nose down, roll into the turn, roll back out, and flare, which all must be factored into the real world scenario. -Dana -- The gene pool could use a little chlorine. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 2008
From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
At 09:43 AM 12/9/2008, Thom Riddle wrote: >The third table, ASSUMES a 600 FPM descent rate. This table depends upon >that assumption. If your airplane descends at a different rate then the >altitude loss numbers will differ linearly. In other words if your >airplane descends at say 450 FPM then the altitude loss will be 3/4 of >those in the table shown for a 600 FPM descent rate. Without checking the numbers, it looks right. However, I question the assumption of a constant 600fpm descent rate. In a steep turn, the descent rate will increase quite a bit. Of course, there's also reaction time, and time to push the nose down, roll into the turn, roll back out, and flare, which all must be factored into the real world scenario. -Dana -- The gene pool could use a little chlorine. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: HKS 700 E
From: "Mnflyer" <gbsb2002(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 09, 2008
Hi Larry I think your going to like the HKS I know I really really like mine, have 300+ hrs on it in the Kitfox and per my calculations its paid for vs the 582 I replaced, the cost of operation is 1/2 the cost vs the 582. -------- GB MNFlyer Flying a HKS Kitfox III Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218509#218509 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
From: "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 09, 2008
Stall speed vs bank angle is widely misunderstood. Many CFIs regurgitate what they've been taught and what they've read in FAA publications without fully understanding it. What most have been taught is that "Stall speed increases with increased bank angle." What they are not taught, but is true nonetheless, is that this statement is true ONLY if there is an increase in G loading, which is the case if you are trying to maintain altitude and airspeed. If you maintain 1 G loading when banking steeply(by descending at the proper rate), the stall speed does not increase. The only way to maintain 1 G load while banking steeply and turning is by descending while turning. The "Stall speed increases with increased bank angle." adage probably came about as an over simplification because it is easier to teach and is a good idea as a point of safety when teaching new students. Unfortunately, that is as far as most pilots, CFIs included, ever dig into the physics. If you are comfortable with experimenting, consider sometime climbing to an altitude of at least 2,500' AGL, do clearing turns then reduce the power to idle, put the nose down and hold your normal approach speed. and start banking to your favorite side, BEING SURE TO HOLD YOUR NORMAL APPROACH SPEED THROUGHOUT this maneuver, continue increasing the bank angle until your maximum comfort level and notice how quickly you are turning. You should also notice three other things. 1) You are NOT experiencing higher than 1 G loading, like you would at high bank angles with power and maintaining altitude. 2) You are not stalling. 3) Your descent rate and turning rate increase as you increase the bank angle while holding a constant airspeed. While descending, gently roll to wings level attitude with coordinating rudder maintaining your normal approach speed (do this without increasing G load). Complete this maneuver by no lower than 1,500' AGL because that is the minimum legal altitude for maneuvering flight. The most important thing to get from this is that the increased G loading from maintaining airspeed AND ALTITUDE while increasing bank angle is responsible for the increased stall speed. Maintain 1 G load at your normal approach speed by descending and you can bank quite steeply without increasing the stall speed. If you start to pull back on the stick while you are steeply banked you will be increasing the G loading which WILL result in a higher stall speed. PLEASE NOTE: I am NOT recommending you do this anywhere near the ground or in a real engine out event. I'm merely trying to clear up a common misunderstanding about the relationship between bank angle and increasing stall speed. I fully expect to get an argument so go ahead and flame away. -------- Thom Riddle CFI-SP Power Plant Mechanic N1208P RANS S6S, Tailwheel, 912UL N197BG FS1/447 -------------------- Scratch any cynic, he said, and youll find a disappointed idealist. George Carlin Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218511#218511 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
Date: Dec 09, 2008
> PLEASE NOTE: I am NOT recommending you do this anywhere near the ground or in a real engine out event. I'm merely trying to clear up a common misunderstanding about the relationship between bank angle and increasing stall speed. > > I fully expect to get an argument so go ahead and flame away. > > -------- > Thom Riddle Thom: Not from me. I'm too tired. ;-) Didn't know anyone was disagreeing with you. I believe we went through this not too long ago. Tom Kuffle was part of that discussion, IIRC. I've learned through the years I can get away with a lot of stuff in a Kolb if I keep my airspeed above stall speed. It is a terrific little airplane. Don't think I would try and fly some of the other light aircraft like I do my Kolbs. john h mkIII - Waiting for the thunderstorms to hit. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
From: "grantr" <grant_richardson25(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 09, 2008
I think the main reason the turn back is not encouraged is "human error" It is a lot harder to get in trouble (stall/spin) if you keep gliding straight. In the stress of turning back to soon or low there is a very high probability that a pilot will attempt to stretch the glide by adding back pressure and thus entering a stall/ spin. If something doesn't feel quite right apply forward stick! Here is a great article covering the turnback: http://www.auf.asn.au/magazine/turnback.html Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218529#218529 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: The turn-back following engine failure article
From: "grantr" <grant_richardson25(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 09, 2008
http://www.auf.asn.au/magazine/turnback.html Just reposting the article for the list. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218530#218530 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 2008
From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
At 02:20 PM 12/9/2008, Thom Riddle wrote: > >Stall speed vs bank angle is widely misunderstood. Many CFIs regurgitate >what they've been taught and what they've read in FAA publications without >fully understanding it. What most have been taught is that "Stall speed >increases with increased bank angle." What they are not taught, but is >true nonetheless, is that this statement is true ONLY if there is an >increase in G loading, which is the case if you are trying to maintain >altitude and airspeed. If you maintain 1 G loading when banking steeply(by >descending at the proper rate), the stall speed does not increase. The >only way to maintain 1 G load while banking steeply and turning is by >descending while turning. You are correct; stall speed increases with bank angle in a level coordinated turn. BUT... If you maintain 1g in a coordinated banked turn, then the aircraft must accelerate downwards at an acceleration corresponding to the 1 minus the cosine of the bank angle times 1G. In the case of the 60 banked turn, you either pull 2g's or you pull 1g and accelerate down at 1/2g... so your vertical speed increases by 16 fps (960 fpm) every second. So, to using an airspeed of 50 mph and 60 bank, according to the chart you posted earlier it takes 6 seconds... but at the end of those 6 seconds your rate of descent has increased to 5760 fpm and you've lost an additional 288' of altitude. -Dana -- In the 60's people took acid to make the world weird. Now the world is weird, people take prozac to make it normal. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Beauford is the expert on VG's !
Date: Dec 09, 2008
Beauford: I don't know about that. First tour in VN my medic took great delight in g iving me some daily penicillin shots, in the butt, for something like VG. Said if I stayed out of the village I wouldn't have to take the shots. Never had to take them again, so.....you may be right. Once you get'em you become immune. I didn't get to fly today. Weather was kinda cruddy and very windy. Went over to Gantt International Airport anyhow. Decided to drag the strip and smooth out the cow pies. While I was down by the hanger I checked out my bird. Darned rat has been back in it while I was on my trip. He ate t he right shoulder harness. Cut'em right off the bulkhead. Also got the ri ght seatbelt. Looks like it went through a buzz saw. While he was at it, he or she checked out a couple wires. Cut the 12vdc wires to my ANR headse t and my Chillie Vest. That is all I could find damaged. Hopefully, he di dn't get back in places and cut wires and hydraulic brake lines like he did a couple years ago. Time to call my friendly Falcon Insurance Agent and see what to do next. ; -( john h mkIII Anyway, strongly recommend you look into the new vaccine once you get ov er your current problem...recommend you look for someone else to pass it al ong to...talk to Hauck...he hasn't had VG yet... beauford ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <apilot(at)surewest.net>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
Date: Dec 09, 2008
Apparently, this 180 turn is a matter of interest to many with differing opinions. Certainly, most of what has been written here is true and is appreciated. Many of us pilots fly differently and were taught in a variety of ways. I believe the important point of all of this discussion is for the individual pilot to know his limits and fly within them. Learning to do an efficient and safe 180 degree turn is worth the time, effort and gas, in my opinion. The most efficient procedure may seem radical, but can be done safely if it is practiced at altitude on a regular basis. Amelia Reid taught me the science of the turn (some on line may have heard of her.....she was a very good instructor). Back to the point. A pilot who practices and knows his ability should base his decisions on what he can do and not what some say is possible. In a Cessna 150 my first tries resulted in altitude losses of up to 600 ft. I lost an engine at 35 feet in a Kasperwing and had to do a 180 to a! void obstacles. My effort was about 10 degrees short and bent a nose wheel. Thank goodness the Kasper is a slow flying airplane. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: The turn-back following engine failure article
Date: Dec 09, 2008
fuel in the bowser? let us not dwell upon that condition..... BB On 9, Dec 2008, at 4:19 PM, grantr wrote: > > > http://www.auf.asn.au/magazine/turnback.html > > Just reposting the article for the list. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218530#218530 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: The turn-back following engine failure article
Date: Dec 10, 2008
Just reposting the article for the list.>> Thanks for that, Grant. Very good article. I think there is a good case to be made that all pilots should start their training in gliders. By the time they have gone solo they will have done more take offs and landings and experienced more engine failures (cable breaks) than the average power pilot will experience in his first 5 years flying. Just a thought Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Beauford is the expert on VG's !
Date: Dec 10, 2008
Hi gang....These pictures rest my case...;-)>> Great pics. Is the smoke generator part of the airodynamics test programme? Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
Date: Dec 10, 2008
Not being able to afford a lawyer as good as he could hire with his doctor's income, she lost the business>> Hi Dana, Life is damned unfair sometimes. Specially when litigation is involved. Sad story Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 10, 2008
From: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net>
Subject: Re: The turn-back following engine failure article
> >I think there is a good case to be made that all pilots should start their >training in gliders. By the time they have gone solo they will have done >more take offs and landings and experienced more engine failures (cable >breaks) than the average power pilot will experience in his first 5 years >flying. > Pat, I believe this is good advice. It helps to overcome the tendency to hold back on the stick to extend a flight. I remember when I was solo and realized what I thought at the time was too low and too far away to make it back to the airport. I had to force my self to let the stick go forward so that I could increase ground speed. I made it with altitude to spare, and after that, I never had one time I never had any problems with letting the stick go forward. Simulated rope breaks were great, and one learned to drop the nose and kick it around in a hurry. One advantage in a glider is that you did not have to worry about the airspeed indicator, as you could gage air speed from the wind noise. With the FireFly, I have had only one 180 back to the landing strip. The 447 iced up on takeoff. At about 250 feet the engine started to droop and I kicked it around and luckily made a down wind landing is spite of turning down wind. The second engine droop came here in Indiana on a very hot day. Even though I was at a much higher altitude, I did not elect to return to the airport as the VSI indicated I was in an area of high sink. Instead, I headed for a corn stalk field and landed cross wind in with the rows close to a house and road. These procedures can be practiced at altitude, so that you can experience the sudden deceleration and discover the importance of pilot reaction time. Also one can get comfortable with making a tight bank at fairly low speed with the nose seemingly pointed at the ground and the gentle leveling of the wings and pull up. Also, one should practice during cold and warm weather to experience the different handling characteristics. As someone else has said, it is all about good energy management. Fly Safe! Jack B. Hart FF004 Winchester, IN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 10, 2008
From: Dave Kulp <undoctor(at)ptd.net>
Subject: JH's "Darned rat" vandal
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found --- A message with no text/plain MIME section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using Plain Text formatting. HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section in their client's default configuration. If you're using HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text". --- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found --- ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal
From: "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 10, 2008
undoctor wrote: > > > [b]Went over to Gantt International Airport anyhow. Decided to drag the strip > > and smooth out the cow pies. While I was down by the hanger I checked out > > my bird. Darned rat has been back in it while I was on my trip. He ate t > > he right shoulder harness. Cut'em right off the bulkhead. Also got the ri > > ght seatbelt. Looks like it went through a buzz saw. While he was at it, > > he or she checked out a couple wires. Cut the 12vdc wires to my ANR headse > > t and my Chillie Vest. That is all I could find damaged. Hopefully, he di > > dn't get back in places and cut wires and hydraulic brake lines like he did > > a couple years ago. > > [/b] > > > > John, gang, > > Here's the Kolb part. I learned that if you sprinkle moth balls on the floor around any place the mice can access your vehicle, they won't go through the smell and your vehicle's safe. Of course the down side is enduring the smell of the moth balls. Without regard to the imminent risk of folks asking the age-old burning question, "Do you know how to smell moth balls?", this info could prevent a lot of mice from trespassing on a lot of Kolbs. > John, Does this mean the valerian didn't work or did the smell/effect wear off while you were roaming the countryside? Thanks, Cristal -------- Cristal Waters Kolb Mark II Twinstar Rotax 503 DCSI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218741#218741 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal
From: "grantr" <grant_richardson25(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 10, 2008
Last year, I had a similar situation where a rats or a few got under the hood of my truck and cut a few wires to the computer shorting it out. They had a massive amount of figs piles high on my intake cover. The truck was running a 6 cylinders barely and the ABS system failed. I had to have the ABS and computer replace at a cost of $1200. Shortly after this they got back in a cut my alternator wire twice. 1st time I had to be pulled 16 miles to a shop to have a new wire made since it was cut right at the connector. 2nd time i made it back home and the truck died in the yard. Wire was easy to fix this time. This year I killed 9 mice in my attic. I have no Idea how they got there. The cheap victor snap traps with peanut butter on them will kill them 99% of the time. Moth balls don't work that well. They still get in my landlords vehicle despite him putting mothballs around the truck. He has to leave the hood open with mothballs on the engine to keep them out. If you don't have pets, Timick (spelling?) a granular pesticide used by farmers will kill the rats almost instantly. It is however very toxic and potent in smell. I keep my Kolb in a 8.5X 24 foot Haulmark car hauler. No rats can get it it! You can alway install a cat in your hangar. They are pretty efficient rat killers if you don't over feed them. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218743#218743 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: choke or primer
From: "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 10, 2008
Hi all. I got the mouse nest out of my tube, cleaned up the corrosion, finished my annual inspection and re-mounted my Rotax after Gerry Olenik from Green Sky Adventures did some maintenance on it for me. I have seen several brag on him so I will also brag. He did a great job, was very knowledgeable and helpful. With the help of a friend we determined that my choke has not been closing all the way. If I manually move the cable back where it splits into the two cables it'll close and run fine. My friend suggested doing away with the choke and just using a priming system. I've gotten used to the choke and am thinking perhaps I could just replace the cables. P.S. Gave my dad a quick ride around the pattern and he LOVED it of course. What fun! -------- Cristal Waters Kolb Mark II Twinstar Rotax 503 DCSI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218755#218755 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal
Date: Dec 10, 2008
> John, > Does this mean the valerian didn't work or did the smell/effect wear off > while you were roaming the countryside? > > Thanks, > Cristal Cristal: Don't know. I probably should have dumped the whole bottle of valerian capsules in the boom tube, sprinkled several boxes of moth balls around the tailwheel, main wheels, and some inside. Not a good feeling to open the door and see your airplane chewed up. Especially the second time around. ;-( I put out two big sticky pads for rats, some Decon rat poison, and a box of moth balls in front of and below the boom tube inside the cockpit. Hope it works before I have my seat belts and shoulder harnesses replaced. john h mkIII - Slightly chewed on. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal
Date: Dec 10, 2008
> Victor also makes an electronic rat assasination machine > > bloodthirsty beauford Beauford: I like that idea. Gonna got to Lowes tomorrow and see if I can find me one of them. Put it right by the tailwheel. I am sure they are getting in the airplane via tailwheel and tailboom. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal
From: "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 10, 2008
I have one of those electronic mouse killers. I had a medium sized mouse that I was trying to kill, and put a camera by the trap. He went in, got zapped, jumped back out and never went near it again. The electronic Rat Killer is a great idea, its just not strong enough to work all the time. Mike -------- "NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have !!! Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218783#218783 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: russ kinne <russ(at)rkiphoto.com>
Subject: Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal
Date: Dec 10, 2008
List FWIW - rats & mice W ILL get 'in' anywhere, no matter what you put up as a barrier. Most often the tailwheel area. Electric zappers do work, but get the biggest one you can. It would be fairly easy to make one self-resetting; there was one like that a long time ago. Shoved the dead ones over into a sealed & concealed container & readied itself for the next one. Rats are smart-- if they see a dead one they may stay away. Rat/mouse urine is very corrosive to alum. Most expensive to repair too. Peanut butter is a good bait. But if you use a Havahart trap with a 1/2" wire mesh, mice will enter, trip it, eat the bait & then squeeze out thru the 1/2"mesh. I had a boa constrictor as a pet for years, NO mice/rats in the house. But I realize that's not a solution for everyone. Good luck. PS Don't let them get near Viagra! -- no telling what would happen. On Dec 10, 2008, at 7:09 PM, John Hauck wrote: > > > > Victor also makes an electronic rat assasination machine > > >> bloodthirsty beauford > > > Beauford: > > I like that idea. > > Gonna got to Lowes tomorrow and see if I can find me one of them. > Put it right by the tailwheel. I am sure they are getting in the > airplane via tailwheel and tailboom. > > john h > mkIII > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 10, 2008
From: "Robert Laird" <rlaird(at)cavediver.com>
Subject: Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal
Ok, here's my solution... worked EVERY time.... Got a large bucket... really large, and tall... made of plastic so the sides were slippery... Bucket has to be big enough and deep enough for about at least 8 inches of water, 8 inches between the water and the rim, and slippery enough so a mouse/rat can't climb out. I stuck a chair next to the bucket, filled the bucket half way with water, put a 2x4 that went out over the bucket and then put a weight on the 2x4 so it became, essentially a steady diving board. Then I took a 6" x 6" piece of plywood, put it on the water, then put on it a couple of bits of dry dog food... the really smelly kind. The mice/rats would climb out on the diving board, drop down to the plywood to get the dog food, the plywood would immediately tump over, and the mouse/rat would swim to exhaustion and drown. Obviously, making sure the mouse/rat can't climb back out is critical, as is making sure the water level/plywood is far enough away so they -have- to drop down to to get it. Worked flawlessly, every time. I once got rid of a whole family that way, one each day. -- R On Wed, Dec 10, 2008 at 7:25 PM, russ kinne wrote: > > List > FWIW - rats & mice W ILL get 'in' anywhere, no matter what you put up as a > barrier. Most often the tailwheel area. Electric zappers do work, but get > the biggest one you can. It would be fairly easy to make one > self-resetting; there was one like that a long time ago. Shoved the dead > ones over into a sealed & concealed container & readied itself for the next > one. Rats are smart-- if they see a dead one they may stay away. > Rat/mouse urine is very corrosive to alum. Most expensive to repair too. > Peanut butter is a good bait. But if you use a Havahart trap with a 1/2" > wire mesh, mice will enter, trip it, eat the bait & then squeeze out thru > the 1/2"mesh. > I had a boa constrictor as a pet for years, NO mice/rats in the house. But I > realize that's not a solution for everyone. > Good luck. > PS Don't let them get near Viagra! -- no telling what would happen. > > On Dec 10, 2008, at 7:09 PM, John Hauck wrote: > >> >> >> > Victor also makes an electronic rat assasination machine > >> >>> bloodthirsty beauford >> >> >> >> Beauford: >> >> I like that idea. >> >> Gonna got to Lowes tomorrow and see if I can find me one of them. Put it >> right by the tailwheel. I am sure they are getting in the airplane via >> tailwheel and tailboom. >> >> john h >> mkIII >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Jimmy Young <jdy100(at)comcast.net>
Subject: trying a new prop
Date: Dec 10, 2008
Kolbers, I got a new prop delivered today from Valley Engineering. I hope to put it on Saturday and if the weather is cooperative I plan to fly. In my last post I mentioned my plane handled "superb". I need to re- qualify that remark...it still has marginal climb out performance with my new Generac engine. It's about half what my old 503 had, at best about 400 fpm, but probably the average is more like 300. I'd call that marginal at best. I currently have an IVO 72" 3 blade, set so I get about 3700 rpm on take-off WOT. Once I'm up to cruise altitude, it does handle and perform the same as it always did, with the exception of the climb rate. The new prop is a 78" 2 blade Culver Prop, pitched at 41. I'll still have a good 2 1/4" from the tip to the boom tube. I'm going to also change the spacer from a 3" to a 1 3/4" spacer, since the new prop is 2 1/4" thick at the hub and the IVO is only 1" thick. That should be a better set up for maintaining prop balance since the prop will be closer to the engine, and will still keep the prop tips 3 3/4" from my aileron tubes. The larger spacer was used to allow for the clearance required between the prop and the aileron tubes for the IVO, which has a lot of flex. I have a prop thrust tester I can use, and I plan to check the IVO on a static run up, record the thrust, then change out to the new prop and see what it produces on a static run up. I have a question to throw out there for review. If one prop produces more static run up thrust than another, regardless of whether it is a 2 or 3 blade prop, would it not therefore be a better all around performing prop in both climb and cruise? If the new prop, which is not ground-adjustable like the IVO is, allows the engine to reach 3700 RPM on a static run up test, which is where the max HP and torque values meet on the Generac engine, and if it produces more thrust at that RPM level, it seems to me it would out-perform the IVO in both climb out and cruise. I know no one here know much about the engine I'm using, but wouldn't these facts hold true for any engine/prop combination? Thanks for any input, Jimmy Young FS II, Houston TX ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 10, 2008
From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: trying a new prop
At 09:45 PM 12/10/2008, Jimmy Young wrote: >I have a question to throw out there for review. If one prop produces >more static run up thrust than another, regardless of whether it is a >2 or 3 blade prop, would it not therefore be a better all around >performing prop in both climb and cruise? No, it might, but it's just as likely to be worse. A prop has to be optimized for a particular airspeed, which is why we have "climb" props which are less efficient at cruise speed, and "cruise" props which don't climb as well but are more efficient during cruise. Or it could be a compromise. A prop that's optimized for static thrust would have lousy cruise (and even climb) performance. Taken to the extreme, consider a helicopter rotor... it's optimized for static thrust but would make poor (if any) thrust if used as a prop at 60 mph. -Dana -- I support drug testing. I believe every public official should be given a shot of sodium pentathol and asked "Which laws have you broken this week?". ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carlos" <grageda(at)innw.net>
Subject: Re: trying a new prop
Date: Dec 10, 2008
Hi Jimmy, Oh I think you are going to open up a can of worms here. Static thrust is only a partial measure of how a prop may perform. Another part is velocity of the same air. Basically you could have a huge amount of thrust by swinging a twelve foot diameter prop that the engine is properly geared for but, you would have such low velocity that a plane would never gain enough speed to get off the ground. It is finding the proper balance between engine speed, thrust and velocity that has to overcome the weight and drag of the airframe to make a good flying plane. Basically, I think that your performance issue is a lack of horsepower. It takes power to lift anything into the air rapidly. Once the plane has reached a steady cruise, power is typically reduce for economy and conservation of engine life. You might have to re-pitch the prop so that on the ground you might be below peak rpm/torque but, once the engine unloads in the air, the peak torque is reached. Usually though most people pitch their props for maximum horsepower and that is usually at a higher rpm than peak torque. Oh there are so many trade-offs! Basically you are going to have to find whats best for your application by good ol' trial and error. Two blades are more efficient than three. One blade is best but, has its own practical problems of balance issues to say the least. Good luck with the plane and please be careful. Carlos G. Just My $0.02 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jimmy Young" <jdy100(at)comcast.net> Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 6:45 PM Subject: Kolb-List: trying a new prop > > Kolbers, > > I got a new prop delivered today from Valley Engineering. I hope to put > it on Saturday and if the weather is cooperative I plan to fly. > > In my last post I mentioned my plane handled "superb". I need to re- > qualify that remark...it still has marginal climb out performance with my > new Generac engine. It's about half what my old 503 had, at best about > 400 fpm, but probably the average is more like 300. I'd call that > marginal at best. I currently have an IVO 72" 3 blade, set so I it > does > handle and perform the same as it always did, with the exception of the > climb rate. > > The new prop is a 78" 2 blade Culver Prop, pitched at 41. I'll still have > a good 2 1/4" from the tip to the boom tube. I'm going to also change the > spacer from a 3" to a 1 3/4" spacer, since the new prop is 2 1/4" thick > at the hub and the IVO is only 1" thick. That should be a better set up > for maintaining prop balance since the prop will be closer to the engine, > and will still keep the prop tips 3 3/4" from my aileron tubes. The > larger spacer was used to allow for the clearance required between the > prop and the aileron tubes for the IVO, which has a lot of flex. I have a > prop thrust tester I can use, and I plan to check the IVO on a static run > up, record the thrust, then change out to the new prop and see what it > produces on a static run up. > > I have a question to throw out there for review. If one prop produces > more static run up thrust than another, regardless of whether it is a 2 > or 3 blade prop, would it not therefore be a better all around performing > prop in both climb and cruise? If the new prop, which is not > ground-adjustable like the IVO is, allows the engine to reach 3700 RPM on > a static run up test, which is where the max HP and torque values meet on > the Generac engine, and if it produces more thrust at that RPM level, it > seems to me it would out-perform the IVO in both climb out and cruise. > > I know no one here know much about the engine I'm using, but wouldn't > these facts hold true for any engine/prop combination? > > Thanks for any input, > > Jimmy Young > FS II, Houston TX > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 10, 2008
From: TheWanderingWench <thewanderingwench(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: choke or primer
Hi Cristal, I removed the choke on my 503 a few years ago and have been using just the primer, without any difficulty. However, I did read somewhere that you can troubleshoot your engine via the choke (don't remember the details) so am not sure if I did the wisest thing - although, as I said, it's been fine for several years and several hundred hours without it. Arty Trost Sandy, Oregon Maxair Drifter www.LessonsFromTheEdge.com "Life's a daring adventure or nothing" Helen Keller "I refuse to tip toe through life just to arrive safely at death." --- On Wed, 12/10/08, cristalclear13 wrote: > From: cristalclear13 <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com> > Subject: Kolb-List: choke or primer > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Wednesday, December 10, 2008, 2:39 PM > "cristalclear13" > > > Hi all. I got the mouse nest out of my tube, cleaned up > the corrosion, finished my annual inspection and re-mounted > my Rotax after Gerry Olenik from Green Sky Adventures did > some maintenance on it for me. I have seen several brag on > him so I will also brag. He did a great job, was very > knowledgeable and helpful. > > With the help of a friend we determined that my choke has > not been closing all the way. If I manually move the cable > back where it splits into the two cables it'll close and > run fine. My friend suggested doing away with the choke and > just using a priming system. I've gotten used to the > choke and am thinking perhaps I could just replace the > cables. > > P.S. Gave my dad a quick ride around the pattern and he > LOVED it of course. What fun! > > -------- > Cristal Waters > Kolb Mark II Twinstar > Rotax 503 DCSI > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218755#218755 > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: trying a new prop
Date: Dec 10, 2008
> I have a question to throw out there for review. If one prop produces > more static run up thrust than another, regardless of whether it is a > 2 or 3 blade prop, would it not therefore be a better all around > performing prop in both climb and cruise? > Jimmy Young > FS II, Houston TX Jimmy, For the problems you've discussed, these are the reasons why I opted for the in-flight adjustable, electric motor option, for my Ivo Prop. I expect it should give the best of both worlds. At static thrust I can decrease pitch substantially, allowing the engine to acheive a higher RPM (into the power band). Once I'm cruising along, I can crank in quite a bit of pitch, for better dynamic thrust. Although I haven't flown with this combination, yet. I have had it operational a few years ago. It was quite impressive to me. The pitch change is quite subtantial, and takes maybe 7-10 seconds to go from a flat pitch to really steep. Although this combination may not be for everyone, it seems like a good way to go for me. Mike Welch MkIII _________________________________________________________________ You live life online. So we put Windows on the web. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com>
Subject: Re: trying a new prop
Date: Dec 11, 2008
It depends on how he has the plane registered. If EAB he can use it, other wise no. Larry C ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike Welch To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 10:47 PM Subject: RE: Kolb-List: trying a new prop > I have a question to throw out there for review. If one prop produces > more static run up thrust than another, regardless of whether it is a > 2 or 3 blade prop, would it not therefore be a better all around > performing prop in both climb and cruise? > Jimmy Young > FS II, Houston TX Jimmy, For the problems you've discussed, these are the reasons why I opted for the in-flight adjustable, electric motor option, for my Ivo Prop. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: choke or primer
From: "ropermike" <ropermike2002(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 11, 2008
I have farmed and ranched for 28 years and dealt with a lot of troublesome small gas engines. I have kept a lot of those engines running (momentarily) using the choke, at least, I can determine if the problem is fuel starvation.... If my 503 ever starts coughing and running rough during flight, one option would be is to choke the engine slightly. It might work and get you to a safe landing spot. You can also diagnose fuel mixture problems with it....You may be able to do the same thing with the primer but I havnt tried it.....Just my thoughts on the matter. -------- The next best thing to playing and winning is playing and losing!...Mike Hillger Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218864#218864 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 11, 2008
From: "Jean PILLAUDIN" <jean.pillaudin(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Hi all, I am at the very beginning of my experience of flying a Kolb Ultrastar. I only have spend two hour of running the runway (grass) in little cross wind, and i have two take off and hopefully two landing too :) I am reading Jack Firefly WebSite , very interesting: http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/howtofly.html And Jack says: "I always take off with the *stick centered and full back*." I did not that. I gradually put full throtle and put the stick forward (surely glider pilot habit), rapidly the tail go up and I control it moving the stick a little back (still up), maintain the axe with the foot and ailerons. The plane accelerate and take off, accelerate again in the air -I kepp the runway axe- and gently pull back to climb at the good speed. It is not concrete runway, it is gentle grass. How do you do, with your Kolb? Am I wrong somewhere? Jean ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: trying a new prop
Date: Dec 11, 2008
Jimmy This sounds like a good test. Of the composite props on the market the IVO has the least thrust. That two bladed wood prop should give you alot more thrust. Horse power is always important but it is thrust that moves you. A long two bladed prop turns more HP into thrust. The problem is that there are compromises. As you get closer to the limit of how big a prop your engine can handle the smaller speed range your prop work in. If you configure your prop for best static thrust at max RPM you might over RPM your engine or limit your cruise speed. The 41 pitch on your prop might be just right but only testing will tell. I recently cut my prop from a 72 inch to 71 inches to get a wider speed range which it did but it also increased the HP necessary to maintain the same cruise. Let us know how it works. Rick Neilsen Redrive VW powered MKIIIC ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jimmy Young" <jdy100(at)comcast.net> Sent: Wednesday, December 10, 2008 9:45 PM Subject: Kolb-List: trying a new prop > > Kolbers, > > I got a new prop delivered today from Valley Engineering. I hope to put > it on Saturday and if the weather is cooperative I plan to fly. > > In my last post I mentioned my plane handled "superb". I need to re- > qualify that remark...it still has marginal climb out performance with my > new Generac engine. It's about half what my old 503 had, at best about > 400 fpm, but probably the average is more like 300. I'd call that > marginal at best. I currently have an IVO 72" 3 blade, set so I get about > 3700 rpm on take-off WOT. Once I'm up to cruise altitude, it does handle > and perform the same as it always did, with the exception of the climb > rate. > > The new prop is a 78" 2 blade Culver Prop, pitched at 41. I'll still have > a good 2 1/4" from the tip to the boom tube. I'm going to also change the > spacer from a 3" to a 1 3/4" spacer, since the new prop is 2 1/4" thick > at the hub and the IVO is only 1" thick. That should be a better set up > for maintaining prop balance since the prop will be closer to the engine, > and will still keep the prop tips 3 3/4" from my aileron tubes. The > larger spacer was used to allow for the clearance required between the > prop and the aileron tubes for the IVO, which has a lot of flex. I have a > prop thrust tester I can use, and I plan to check the IVO on a static run > up, record the thrust, then change out to the new prop and see what it > produces on a static run up. > > I have a question to throw out there for review. If one prop produces > more static run up thrust than another, regardless of whether it is a 2 > or 3 blade prop, would it not therefore be a better all around performing > prop in both climb and cruise? If the new prop, which is not > ground-adjustable like the IVO is, allows the engine to reach 3700 RPM on > a static run up test, which is where the max HP and torque values meet on > the Generac engine, and if it produces more thrust at that RPM level, it > seems to me it would out-perform the IVO in both climb out and cruise. > > I know no one here know much about the engine I'm using, but wouldn't > these facts hold true for any engine/prop combination? > > Thanks for any input, > > Jimmy Young > FS II, Houston TX > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 11, 2008
Hi Jean: I don't think you are wrong. I take off in all models of Kolbs, normally like this: 1-Full Throttle 2-Neutral Stick - No pressure on the stick to keep the tail down or force t he tail up. It will come up by itself when ready. 3-When the tail starts coming up, input control pressure to keep it level. 4-When it is ready to fly, a little aft stick pressure and you are flying. All this takes place in a matter of a few seconds time. This would be an ordinary takeoff on good surfaces. john h mkIII How do you do, with your Kolb? Am I wrong somewhere? Jean ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: choke or primer
From: "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 11, 2008
ropermike wrote: > I have farmed and ranched for 28 years and dealt with a lot of troublesome small gas engines. I have kept a lot of those engines running (momentarily) using the choke, at least, I can determine if the problem is fuel starvation.... If my 503 ever starts coughing and running rough during flight, one option would be is to choke the engine slightly. It might work and get you to a safe landing spot. You can also diagnose fuel mixture problems with it....You may be able to do the same thing with the primer but I havnt tried it.....Just my thoughts on the matter. You can with the primer and it's the same troubleshooting process. You can hit the primer with the engine running to enrichen the mixture in the same way as activating the chokes. The primer is the way to go. The cost is just the extra small tubing you have to run to the carburettors, the plunger and the fuel pickup, but it eliminates the cabling and etc. associated with the chokes. The primer generally leads to quicker starting as well, one shot of gas and usually the motor starts on the first pull of the rope.... LS -------- LS Titan II SS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218887#218887 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: choke or primer
Date: Dec 11, 2008
You can hit the primer with the engine running to enrichen the mixture in the same way as activating the chokes. > > LS Lucien: I can't find my chokes. Don't think I have them on Bing carbs, two or four stroke. john h mkIII - Waiting on the snow, soon as New Orleans and St Francisville, LA, finish with it. John B: Got your snow shovel handy? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: choke or primer
From: "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 11, 2008
John Hauck wrote: > > > Lucien: > > I can't find my chokes. Don't think I have them on Bing carbs, two or four > stroke. > > john h > mkIII - Waiting on the snow, soon as New Orleans and St Francisville, LA, > finish with it. John B: Got your snow shovel handy? Er, you are kidding, right? ;). Technically, our bings have enrichener circuits instead of the chokes of yore that just had a butterfly that closed off the venturi. I have to admit to not having had much trouble with the enricheners on the 2-stroke bings. The original builder of my FSII used them and after I bought the plane I never saw the need to eliminate it in favor of a primer. That engine had the clutch, tho, so it was a lot easier to start anyway... My 912uls fires up fairly quickly with the enricheners unless it's really cold. The system works pretty good... LS -------- LS Titan II SS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218909#218909 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Arksey(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 11, 2008
Subject: choke or primer
Hi Cristal, I think i would fix the enrichener's what you called the choke. On my firestar with the 503 i disabled the enrichener's and use a primer and it starts and works fine. But some of the primers including the one I am using is of poor construction and not up to general aviation standards, I had to replace my primer as the old one was leaking a that meant to me it could be causing a air leak which you do not want in the suction line on your gas line. So if I was to do it again I would use the enrichener's (choke) and not the primer for that reason and because engine temps are so critical on a 2 cly in case of high temps one could use the enricher to lower the temps until the problem was cured. So i would rebuild the enrichener's and make sure they were closing correctly. just my 2 cents worth... jim SWAN do not archive jim swan FS ll 503 michigan **************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one place. Try it now. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: choke or primer
Date: Dec 11, 2008
From: zeprep251(at)aol.com
In cold weather the 503 required 4 hard pulls to light off with enrichener only.With 1 full shot of prime and enrichener,it fired and stayed running on the first pull.Even in mild weather that was the case.On the Firestar,the primer was located on the fuel pump mounting angle below the pump,which required only a few inches of primer line but was obviously out of reach from the cockpit,but the enrichener was right where it was in the plans, above and slightly behind your left shoulder.There are some good reasons to keep all your options open in my opinion. ? ? ? ? ? ?? Welcome? to Fla.Nielsons -----Original Message----- From: lucien <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Thu, 11 Dec 2008 7:13 am Subject: Kolb-List: Re: choke or primer ropermike wrote: > I have farmed and ranched for 28 years and dealt with a lot of troublesome small gas engines. I have kept a lot of those engines running (momentarily) using the choke, at least, I can determine if the problem is fuel starvation.... If my 503 ever starts coughing and running rough during flight, one option would be is to choke the engine slightly. It might work and get you to a safe landing spot. You can also diagnose fuel mixture problems with it....You may be able to do the same thing with the primer but I havnt tried it.....Just my thoughts on the matter. You can with the primer and it's the same troubleshooting process. You can hit the primer with the engine running to enrichen the mixture in the same way as activating the chokes. The primer is the way to go. The cost is just the extra small tubing you have to run to the carburettors, the plunger and the fuel pickup, but it eliminates the cabling and etc. associated with the chokes. The primer generally leads to quicker starting as well, one shot of gas and usually the motor starts on the first pull of the rope.... LS -------- LS Titan II SS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218887#218887 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 11, 2008
Jean, the FF has a top mounted engine so full power will push the nose down. Since the US has center thrust the stick position required will not be the same. I agree with John H., neutral stick will do the job until you become more familiar. BB On 11, Dec 2008, at 9:14 AM, Jean PILLAUDIN wrote: > Hi all, > > I am at the very beginning of my experience of flying a Kolb > Ultrastar. I only have spend two hour of running the runway (grass) > in little cross wind, and i have two take off and hopefully two > landing too :) > > I am reading Jack Firefly WebSite , very interesting: > http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/howtofly.html > > And Jack says: > "I always take off with the stick centered and full back." > > I did not that. I gradually put full throtle and put the stick > forward (surely glider pilot habit), rapidly the tail go up and I > control it moving the stick a little back (still up), maintain the > axe with the foot and ailerons. The plane accelerate and take off, > accelerate again in the air -I kepp the runway axe- and gently pull > back to climb at the good speed. > > It is not concrete runway, it is gentle grass. > > How do you do, with your Kolb? Am I wrong somewhere? > > Jean > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 11, 2008
From: "Jean PILLAUDIN" <jean.pillaudin(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Ho yes sure I understand, the design is really not the same, Jack take care about the nose over! Thank's Robert and John for your incomes! Jean 2008/12/11 robert bean > Jean, the FF has a top mounted engine so full power will push the nose > down.Since the US has center thrust the stick position required will not > be the same. > I agree with John H., neutral stick will do the job until you become more > familiar. > BB > > On 11, Dec 2008, at 9:14 AM, Jean PILLAUDIN wrote: > > Hi all, > > I am at the very beginning of my experience of flying a Kolb Ultrastar. I > only have spend two hour of running the runway (grass) in little cross wind, > and i have two take off and hopefully two landing too :) > > I am reading Jack Firefly WebSite , very interesting: > http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/howtofly.html > > And Jack says: > "I always take off with the *stick centered and full back*." > > I did not that. I gradually put full throtle and put the stick forward > (surely glider pilot habit), rapidly the tail go up and I control it moving > the stick a little back (still up), maintain the axe with the foot and > ailerons. The plane accelerate and take off, accelerate again in the air -I > kepp the runway axe- and gently pull back to climb at the good speed. > > It is not concrete runway, it is gentle grass. > > How do you do, with your Kolb? Am I wrong somewhere? > > Jean > > * > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com* > > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 11, 2008
From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
I do pretty much as John says, but I use a touch of forward stick to lift the tail as the US doesn't have that high engine helping to pitch forward. On grass I hold the nose a bit higher so it lifts off by itself when it's ready. -Dana At 09:35 AM 12/11/2008, John Hauck wrote: > >I take off in all models of Kolbs, normally like this: > >1-Full Throttle > >2-Neutral Stick - No pressure on the stick to keep the tail down or force >the tail up. It will come up by itself when ready. > >3-When the tail starts coming up, input control pressure to keep it level. > >4-When it is ready to fly, a little aft stick pressure and you are flying. > >All this takes place in a matter of a few seconds time. > >This would be an ordinary takeoff on good surfaces. -- If it were truly the thought that counted, more women would be pregnant. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal
Date: Dec 11, 2008
The mouse-size unit runs on AA > cells... the rat unit feels a lot heavier and uses C cells... I assume > from > the weight that the capacitor in the rat unit has substantially more > punch. > You might consider trying a small damp door-mat at the entrance of > yours... > > curious beauford Bro Beau: Went by Lowes on the way home from MGM. All they had was the little bitty mouse zappers. Had they had the Rat Zappers, I would have gotten one or a couple. However, I did buy two big old rat traps at 1.97 ea. Gonna bait'em up with a little peanut butter and see what I can catch. I haven't had time to get back over to Gantt International Airport to see how my glue traps have done. I also left them 4 trays of Decon to munch on while I was gone. Too dark and too cold to set the traps tonight. I might ought to tack a 1/16" cable to the rat traps in case I catch something that is too big for them and decides to walk off with one on its nose or paw. I am gonna get'em. Take care, john h mkIII pilot and rat killer!!! ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: choke or primer
Date: Dec 11, 2008
> Technically, our bings have enrichener circuits instead of the chokes of yore that just had a butterfly that closed off the venturi. > > I have to admit to not having had much trouble with the enricheners on the > 2-stroke bings. The original builder of my FSII used them and after I > bought the plane I never saw the need to eliminate it in favor of a > primer. That engine had the clutch, tho, so it was a lot easier to start > anyway... > > My 912uls fires up fairly quickly with the enricheners unless it's really > cold. The system works pretty good... > > LS Lucien: Yes, they call them chokes because that is what they do. Enricheners work on the same principle as the primer. There is an enricher well and enricher jet located in the float bowl. Important to insure the throttle is on the idle stop. Enricher full open. When the engine turns over, it sucks in the charge of fuel stored in the enricher well. From there on the engine is running off the enricher circuit through the enricher jet. If operated correctly, the enricher system on Bing carbs works well for two and four stroke Rotax engines. I have operated the 912 series engines in the Arctic at temps well below freezing with success. It also takes a hot battery to turn the engine over to start. Big problem with the two stroke Bings is the plunger style system they use to control the enricher. After they get some age on them, they will leak, causing an over rich condition without the operator realizing it. It is an easy fix to remove and replace with new parts to correct the problem. I prefer the enricher over primer. Primers introduce more plumbing, carrying fuel, especially in the area of the cockpit. Take care, john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: choke or primer
From: "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 11, 2008
John Hauck wrote: > > Lucien: Yes, they call them chokes because that is what they do. Enricheners work on the same principle as the primer. There is an enricher well and enricher jet located in the float bowl. Important to insure the throttle is on the idle stop. Enricher full open. When the engine turns over, it sucks in the charge of fuel stored in the enricher well. From there on the engine is running off the enricher circuit through the enricher jet. If operated correctly, the enricher system on Bing carbs works well for two and four stroke Rotax engines. I have operated the 912 series engines in the Arctic at temps well below freezing with success. It also takes a hot battery to turn the engine over to start. Big problem with the two stroke Bings is the plunger style system they use to control the enricher. After they get some age on them, they will leak, causing an over rich condition without the operator realizing it. It is an easy fix to remove and replace with new parts to correct the problem. I prefer the enricher over primer. Primers introduce more plumbing, carrying fuel, especially in the area of the cockpit. Take care, john h mkIII[/quote] A bit of trivia on the enrichener for parties..... If you need to replace a float bowl, be sure to order the jet as well or save the old jet from the old bowl. Just ordering the bowl and you get the bowl with no jet in it. The enrichener circuit works WAY too well without the jet. You can probably guess why I know this but I'm not going to admit anything anyway...... In any case, I've used both the primer system and the stock enrichener systems for many years and both are very trouble free and work very well. The only concern I've ever had with the primer is a leaking primer plunger. This can result in extra gas getting into the carburettors just like when the rubber stoppers fail on the 2-stroke carbs. Which I use simply depends on which is easier to deal with on that particular plane. On the 912 the enricheners are the only choice, I believe. Mine work perfectly so far even in temps as low as 10F....... LS -------- LS Titan II SS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=218989#218989 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: DAquaNut(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 11, 2008
Subject: Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal
In a message dated 12/11/2008 5:11:14 P.M. Central Standard Time, jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com writes: However, I did buy two big old rat traps at 1.97 ea. Gonna bait'em up with a little peanut butter and see what I can catch. John, If that doesn't do it, try getting some corn kernels, like they feed deer. Take a 1/16 th inch drill bit and drill through about six kernels and wire them together on the rat trap trigger. It is hard for them to get it off without tripping the trap. Another option is to get some bird seed that has sunflower seed in it. Put a small amount into a piece of plastic window screen, making it into a little ball and wiring it onto the trap trigger. Another choice is to wire a peanut in its shell ,to the trigger If necessary you can modify the trigger to where it will trip easier. I have had rats lick all the Peanut butter off and not get caught! Ed Diebel FF 062 **************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one place. Try it now. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 11, 2008
From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: choke or primer
This discussion of the choke (enrichener) raises an interesting question. As others have pointed out, the enrichener is sometimes used as a diagnostic tool, to see if the engine's running lean (or correct it if it is). However, the enrichener also supposedly is only effective near idle... so will it have any significant effect at cruise or max throttle? I have a plunger primer and it works great, but I've considered adding a remote cable to the choke for inflight emergency or diagnostic use... now I'm not so sure... -Dana -- We are sorry, you have reached an imaginary number. Please rotate your phone ninety degrees and try again. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: choke or primer
Date: Dec 11, 2008
> However, the enrichener also supposedly is only effective near > idle... so will it have any significant effect at cruise or max throttle? > > -Dana Dana: The primary reason for starting the engine with the throttle closed is to have maximum suction to pull the initial charge out of the enrichener well. If the throttle is opened above idle, on start up, it doesn't do a good job of scavenging the fuel out of the well. At cruise rpm, if the enrichener is opened, there is more than enough suction to pull the charge out of the well, then run richer from the extra fuel being drawn from the enrichener jet. Clear as mud, huh? john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: JH's "Darned rat" vandal
Date: Dec 11, 2008
Thanks Ed D: These Alabama rats are big and clumsey, I hope. They are field rats with t eeth like bolt cutters. I'll try peanut butter first. If they can get the peanut butter with out g etting caught, I will try some of your suggestions. We will prevail. john h mkIII If that doesn't do it, try getting some corn kernels, like they f eed deer. Take a 1/16 th inch drill bit and drill through about six kernels and wire them together on the rat trap trigger. It is hard for them to get it off without tripping the trap. Another option is to get some bird seed that has sunflower seed in it. Put a small amount into a piece of plastic window screen, making it into a little ball and wiring it onto the trap tr igger. Another choice is to wire a peanut in its shell ,to the trigger If necessary you can modify the trigger to where it will trip easier. I have had rats lick all the Peanut butter off and not get caught! Ed Diebel FF 062 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 11, 2008
From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: choke or primer
At 09:57 PM 12/11/2008, John Hauck wrote: >At cruise rpm, if the enrichener is opened, there is more than enough >suction to pull the charge out of the well, then run richer from the extra >fuel being drawn from the enrichener jet. > >Clear as mud, huh? Quite clear... I should have thought of that. -Dana (brain dead tonight trying to fix a Vista printing problem...) -- Please return stewardess to original upright position. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: choke or primer
Date: Dec 12, 2008
From: zeprep251(at)aol.com
the enrichener works at any engine speed -----Original Message----- From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> Sent: Thu, 11 Dec 2008 6:17 pm Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: choke or primer ? This discussion of the choke (enrichener) raises an interesting question.? ? As others have pointed out, the enrichener is sometimes used as a diagnostic tool, to see if the engine's running lean (or correct it if it is). However, the enrichener also supposedly is only effective near idle... so will it have any significant effect at cruise or max throttle?? ? I have a plunger primer and it works great, but I've considered adding a remote cable to the choke for inflight emergency or diagnostic use... now I'm not so sure...? ? -Dana? --? ?We are sorry, you have reached an imaginary number.? Please rotate your phone ninety degrees and try again.? ? ? ? ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ted Cowan" <tc1917(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: 912 enrichers
Date: Dec 12, 2008
I may be misunderstanding what John H was saying but my 912 ul 80 hp does not have enrichers in the carbs. They have full butterly chokes in them. I know for sure because I looked in there. Butterfly type is way better than the rubber based enricher valve. I used my enricher valve to save my butt once. I had icing (I believe it was) and pulled the enricher lever and it coffed and stumbled and lit it back up. It actually blew the ice off the jet and away I went. Really sounded bad from the ground according to my friend down there but I told him it sounded worse when a plane hits the ground. I have had a recent chance to find out if the plunger style gas unit works the same in an emergency on a challenger -- it does not keep the engine running!!!!! Did a really great two point landing. Had to take the nose wheel out to stop in time but thanks to the fragil nose wheel of a challenger, it folded just as I thought it would and I stopped in plenty of time. Limited damage. My Kolb would have stopped in plenty of time. Ted ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 12, 2008
From: <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 912 enrichers
> I may be misunderstanding what John H was saying but my 912 ul 80 hp does > not have enrichers in the carbs. They have full butterly chokes in them. I > know for sure because I looked in there. Butterfly type is way better than > the rubber based enricher valve. Ted Ted: Check to see if your choke butterfly vavles are connected to your throttle cables. The Bings on the 912 series engines use a rotary valve system for enrichener, rather than the plunger valve used by the two stroke Rotax. There are a couple o ring seals in them that need to be checked periodically. They could possibly leak if they go bad. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: VG affect on stall
From: "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 12, 2008
Grant R, I have about 140 VG's on my MK III Xtra, from the Center of the wing all the way to the wingtips, the stall is very gentle, as gentle as any Cessna I have ever flown. My stall speed was lowered 10 MPH, and the handling of the plane improved immensely. I have a video posted of stalls, and flow flight with VG's on my Kolb, You can see it at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjI7-kBptrA To see how the VG's help keep the Kolb from landing firmly at low landing speeds watch this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L508itf3oy8 I use VG's from www.landshorter.com. Making your own VG's will probably help, but they are CRITICAL. If you don't make them the right dimensions they wont work as well as they should. Its important to place the VG's in the EXACT place on the wing to be effective, and the PRECISE angle of the VG's in relation to the airstream is even more important if you want to get the full benefits of VG's. Just imagine building a wing using the " That looks about right " method, and then putting the wing of by guessing where it should be, and then wondering why your plane does not fly well ??? Some people have done this with VG's, and then reported to the list they are not very effective.... Hmmm, I wonder why ???? Mike -------- "NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have !!! Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219074#219074 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: VG affect on stall
Date: Dec 12, 2008
the stall is very gentle, as gentle as any Cessna I have ever flown. > > Mike Mike: Most all Kolbs, without VGs, I have flown, fly much better than any Cessna I have flown, which is limited to a couple of old tired 152's, it took to get my Private Ticket in 1990. In fact, based on my limited experience, Cessnas have a rather sharp stall compared to the Kolbs' mushie stall characteristics. Cessnas also lose much more altitude than Kolbs in a spin, and much quicker. Never spun a Kolb with VGs, and have a couple flights in one FSII equipped with VGs. I am neither pro or con VG. However, if I start wearing a flight helmet, I will mimic Brother Beauford's helmet, complete with appropriate VGs. I may even go a step further and put them on top and bottom. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: VG affect on stall
From: "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 12, 2008
HShack(at)aol.com wrote: > When I designed & installed my VG's some 7 or 8 yrs. ago, I put 7 on each wing [these were the aluminum flashing kind]. My stall dropped from 41 to 36. The stall was still very gentle; in fact it didn't really want to stall. > > I added 13 more per wing. Stall dropped another 4 mph, but when she stalled it was rather violent & scary. I hated the way it felt, so went back to the original 7 per wing. Happy again. > > If you put VG's on only part of the wing, you only get part of the benefit. Being that you guessed where your VG's should go, and that you guessed on the design of your VG's, its no wonder you ended up with some bad characteristics and scared yourself. If you put anything on the wrong part of a wing, including VG's, they can go from being a benefit to being dangerous very quickly. I would not want to be the test pilot on an airplane with poorly place VG's [Shocked] Here is a video of some guys that put VG's on their airplane the right way, using precise measurements to get them in the correct place on the wing, and getting the exact angles of the VG's to the airstream using templates. These guys also did a lot of work so the rest of us can see the effect VG's have on the airflow on the wing. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQO7SoULc3U&feature=related The research has already been done over many years. I prefer to use the design and placement that a lot of aeronautical engineers have developed over the years than try to guess on VG placement. Mike -------- "NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have !!! Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219080#219080 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: VG affect on stall
Date: Dec 12, 2008
> The research has already been done over many years. I prefer to use the > design and placement that a lot of aeronautical engineers have developed > over the years than try to guess on VG placement. > > Mike Mike: Looks like we are getting a lot of VG manufacturers out there all over the world. Do you believe each one of these VG manufacturers has done the research and testing to provide precise guidance on where to place their VGs on your Kolb's wings? john h mkIII-Slick wing! ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 12, 2008
From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: VG affect on stall
At 05:10 PM 12/12/2008, John Hauck wrote: >Looks like we are getting a lot of VG manufacturers out there all over the >world. > >Do you believe each one of these VG manufacturers has done the research >and testing to provide precise guidance on where to place their VGs on >your Kolb's wings? Well, as long as the _first_ manufacturer did the R&D... everybody else is probably just copying them... -Dana (still VG-less in CT) -- If we wish to "restore" respect for the law, a good start would be to pass only laws that people will respect. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: VG affect on stall
Date: Dec 12, 2008
> Well, as long as the _first_ manufacturer did the R&D... everybody else is > probably just copying them... > > -Dana (still VG-less in CT) Dana: Do you think any of those vg manufacturers ever went so far as do testing on a Kolb wing? How do we know what precise is, when placing those little buggers on our wings and under our tails? I bet if you get right down to the real nitty gritty, you will discover there is very, very little serious flight or simulated flight testing on any UL or experiemental homebuilt. john h mkIII-Who did his own testing, good and bad. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: VG affect on stall
From: "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 12, 2008
I doubt that any manufacturer did testing on the Kolb wing, but they have on many other wings. For the type of airplanes we fly, and the speeds we fly at, VG placement on wings is pretty much universal. In the video below, you see these guys carefully placing VG's right where they should be, at about 10 % of the chord of the wing behind the leading edge, and equally spaced at about 1 % the span of the wing. On my Kolb, I placed my VG's at slightly less than 1 % of the span because it is desirable to put each pair of VG's in the rib valleys, all VG's evenly spaced, 2.5 inches spacing between all VG's on my Kolb. Even more important than the spacing is that VG's be EXACTLY 15 degrees "Nose In " to the relative wind, that is where they create the most efficient "tornado" above the wing without adding excessive drag. It is necessary to use a template to get the correct angle on VG's. The video shows how its done :) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQO7SoULc3U&feature=related Mike -------- "NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have !!! Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219134#219134 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: VG affect on stall
Date: Dec 12, 2008
> I doubt that any manufacturer did testing on the Kolb wing, but they have on many other wings. For the type of airplanes we fly, and the speeds we fly at, VG placement on wings is pretty much universal. In the video below, you see these guys carefully placing VG's right where they should be, at about 10 % of the chord of the wing behind the leading edge, and equally spaced at about 1 % the span of the wing. On my Kolb, I placed my VG's at slightly less than 1 % of the span because it is desirable to put each pair of VG's in the rib valleys, all VG's evenly spaced, 2.5 inches spacing between all VG's on my Kolb. Even more important than the spacing is that VG's be EXACTLY 15 degrees "Nose In " to the relative wind, that is where they create the most efficient "tornado" above the wing without adding excessive drag. It is necessary to use a template to get the correct angle on VG's. The video shows how its done :) > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQO7SoULc3U&feature=related > > Mike > > -------- > "NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you > could have !!! > > Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219134#219134 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: VG affect on stall
Date: Dec 12, 2008
Sorry, Gang: Looks like I fired a blank. Was thinking about replying and changed my mind. john h mkIII ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> Sent: Friday, December 12, 2008 6:03 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: VG affect on stall > > > > I doubt that any manufacturer did testing on the Kolb wing, but they > > have > on many other wings. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: xtra wingtip mods
Date: Dec 12, 2008
> We've finished modifying our wing to accept fiberglass wingtips. > -------- > Scott Scott/Paul: Looks good. I believe you told me what the length of the wing panel was while at the Homecoming, but I forgot. ;-) john h mkIII 31F and cold at hauck's holler. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 13, 2008
"I always take off with the *stick centered and full back*." Hi Jean, I have not flown a Firefly but to take off `stick fully back ` is dangerous in any plane I dont know who Jack is but I am surprised that he is alive. If you take off as he suggests you will get airborne as soon as you hit flying speed. THAT IS NOT FAST ENOUGH. A slight drop in the wind or power from your engine and you will stall., just off the ground and you will at best bump heavily or at worst you will crash. You will also be stuck in ground effect until you build up some speed. It CAN be done that way but only when you have some experience. I never look at the ASI on takeoff. You do not fly small aircraft by the numbers with a co pilot calling V1, V2. Advance the throttle smoothly with the stick forward, the tail will come up in a few yards and you can ease off on the stick to balance the plane on its wheels. Smoothly push the throttle to full power. The plane will tell you when she wants to fly. Hold it like that for a couple of seconds as the speed builds and then ease the stick back and you will climb away with no trouble. You have gliding experience you will know that you do not pull into a steep climb until you have some height. Cables break and engines pack up. Good luck Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: xtra wingtip mods
From: "icrashrc" <icrashrc(at)aol.com>
Date: Dec 13, 2008
John, The wingspan is the same as with the stock wingtip bow. Total wingspan including the glass tip should be within a few inches of the yellow and white factory Xtra. Scott 31f? that's a heat wave! It's 14f here. [/quote] Scott/Paul: Looks good. I believe you told me what the length of the wing panel was while at the Homecoming, but I forgot. ;-) john h mkIII 31F and cold at hauck's holler.[/quote] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219183#219183 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Eugene Zimmerman <etzimm(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: VG affect on stall
Date: Dec 13, 2008
On Dec 12, 2008, at 5:41 PM, John Hauck wrote: > I bet if you get right down to the real nitty gritty, you will > discover there is very, very little serious flight or simulated > flight testing on any UL or experiemental homebuilt. John, I bet if you get right down to the nitty gritty you will discover that most experimental planes are never actually involved in any real experimental testing. "Experimental aircraft " is in that case a misnomer. The actual testing in most cases is not a testing of the plane, but most often the real test is a test that reveals whether a person is, or is not, a real pilot. How many Kolb "planes" ever proved to be unsatisfactory as a flying experiment? How many Kolb "pilots" ever proved to be unsatisfactory as a flying experiment? In most cases it is the pilot that is ,,,,,,,,,,, "EXPERIMENTAL" It is always true in my case anyways ,,,,,,, because the EXPERIENCE is always mine. I am always "experimental" ,,,,,,,,,,,, every once in a while my plane is also. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 13, 2008
From: "Jean PILLAUDIN" <jean.pillaudin(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Yes you're right, but I think Jack just want to take care of nose over, and as an experienced Pilot he let his firefly accelerate before beginning to climb. Thank you for your income. Jean 2008/12/13 pj.ladd > "I always take off with the *stick centered and full back*." > > Hi Jean, > > I have not flown a Firefly but to take off `stick fully back ` is > dangerous in any plane > > I dont know who Jack is but I am surprised that he is alive. > If you take off as he suggests you will get airborne as soon as you hit > flying speed. THAT IS NOT FAST ENOUGH. A slight drop in the wind or power > from your engine and you will stall., just off the ground and you will at > best bump heavily or at worst you will crash. You will also be stuck in > ground effect until you build up some speed. > It CAN be done that way but only when you have some experience. > > I never look at the ASI on takeoff. You do not fly small aircraft by the > numbers with a co pilot calling V1, V2. Advance the throttle smoothly with > the stick forward, the tail will come up in a few yards and you can ease off > on the stick to balance the plane on its wheels. Smoothly push the throttle > to full power. The plane will tell you when she wants to fly. Hold it like > that for a couple of seconds as the speed builds and then ease the stick > back and you will climb away with no trouble. > You have gliding experience you will know that you do not pull into a > steep climb until you have some height. Cables break and engines pack up. > > Good luck > > Pat > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: xtra wingtip mods
Date: Dec 13, 2008
Scott: How and where are you all going to attach and rig your aileron counter balance weights? john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: VG affect on stall
Date: Dec 13, 2008
> In most cases it is the pilot that is ,,,,,,,,,,, "EXPERIMENTAL" > > It is always true in my case anyways ,,,,,,, because the EXPERIENCE is > always mine. > > I am always "experimental" ,,,,,,,,,,,, every once in a while my plane > is also. Gene Z: Good point. True in my case. Was and still is a big learning curve flying these little airplanes. Up until 1990, I flew the single place Kolbs. Never had any professional instruction. Never had a check ride. Never had another pilot ride along to see if what I was doing was right or wrong. In the Army it was a constant series of check rides and standardization. I enjoy the freedom of my sport, but it can lead to some serious problems if I let it. Sometimes I don't know if I am letting it or not. This morning I am going to the airstrip to see if I caught anything. Put out two big rat traps with peanut butter. Used safety wire to secure them in place, in case I get a really big one that wants to walk off with my traps. I notices yesterday the four trays of Decon were cleaned out. I put them out and did not have a chance to check them for 48 hours. The glue traps had caught some pretty big grass hoppers, but that's all. Brother Jim has volunteered to sew me up some more seat belts and shoulder harnesses. I discovered the DRE 6000 ANR headsets are coming back. Aircraft Spruce has them for 359.00. Wiring in my old set got chewed up, plus they are getting on in age and hours. I ordered some new ones last night, but they were back ordered. I like the DRE6000 because I can plug them into the aircraft 12VDC system and not have to worry about batteries, just rats. ;-) Was 24F this morning. Must have been the nearness of the full moon last night. john h mkIII - Putting another log on the fire. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 13, 2008
> Every plane/kolb is a little different. I never really thought > about how the take off process works in my mongrelized MkIII but here is what I can put together from memory: 1. taxi to the end where the wind is hitting me in the face 2 wait until the water temp gets near a boiling 3. check all two gages 4. see if those flappy things are working on the wings. 5. advance the throttle fully, the mighty geo wheezes to full power 6. lumber at a slightly increasing rate over the undulating terrain 7. start bouncing from hummock to hummock at increasingly large increments. 8 doesn't much matter where the stick is, can't remember anyway. 9. some kinda magic makes it leave the ground. -thank goodness, I was was getting tired of all that bounding. 10. free as a bird. Hope it keeps running. I won't even go to the landing process, much too frightening for me to review. BB never had a lesson in a Kolb either, and it shows. :) ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 13, 2008
From: "Richard Girard" <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: 912 enrichers
Ted, I'm going to assume you have the stock Bing 64's on your 912 and you haven't hung a Holley double pumper on it.That butterfly you saw when you looked in the carb throat is NOT a choke, it's the throttle. In the 64 this sets the vacuum level in the carb which pulls the piston up and sets the mixture. Unlike the two stroke Bings, the throttle cable is NOT connected to the piston. In the 64 the piston is suspended from a diaphragm inside that big cover on top of the carb. What may be confusing you is that the linkage on the throttle cable should be set up so that the throttle butterfly goes full open should the cable fail. The throttle cable pulls the butterfly closed, not open. NOTE: this could be changed as the 64's on my HKS do not have this linkage setup. On the HKS the throttle is closed by the spring, just like it would be on a BMW motorcycle, but a 912 should have the aviation linkage that fails open. Rick On Fri, Dec 12, 2008 at 7:34 AM, wrote: > > > > I may be misunderstanding what John H was saying but my 912 ul 80 hp > does > > not have enrichers in the carbs. They have full butterly chokes in them. > I > > know for sure because I looked in there. Butterfly type is way better > than > > the rubber based enricher valve. > > Ted > > > Ted: > > Check to see if your choke butterfly vavles are connected to your throttle > cables. > > The Bings on the 912 series engines use a rotary valve system for > enrichener, rather than the plunger valve used by the two stroke Rotax. > There are a couple o ring seals in them that need to be checked > periodically. They could possibly leak if they go bad. > > john h > mkIII > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 13, 2008
From: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
...................... I dont know who Jack is but I am surprised that he is alive. If you take off as he suggests you will get airborne as soon as you hit flying speed. THAT IS NOT FAST ENOUGH. A slight drop in the wind or power from your engine and you will stall., just off the ground and you will at best bump heavily or at worst you will crash. You will also be stuck in ground effect until you build up some speed. It CAN be done that way but only when you have some experience. ....................... Pat, I am the "Jack" and I referred Jean to my how to transition to a FireFly page. http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/howtofly.html I have copied out My Standard Take-Off "I always take off with the stick centered and full back. This approach has several advantages. In cross winds it keeps the FireFly stuck to the runway until lift-off and it makes it easier to keep the FireFly straight down the runway. It lets you get off soft tall grass fields with out a nose over, and it can get you off the ground as quickly as possible. A nose over experience on a soft tall grass runway and water in tall grass experience brought about always using the stick back against the stop. The throttle is teased forward until the FireFly is bouncing. Throttle teasing reduces the effect of P-factor and helps you to keep up with rudder. Each time the FireFly bounces the throttle is jigged open a little more lengthening the next bounce until the FireFly flies off into ground effect. During the bouncing phase and if the tail comes up on its own when taking off from grass, you are on your way to a nose over. Jig the throttle back to get the tail to come back down or abort and try again. If there is a cross wind, one lowers the up wind wing and adds rudder to keep the FireFly straight with the runway. As the FireFly rises up in ground effect, back stick pressure is released and the throttle is advanced more aggressively. When the indicated airspeed reaches 55 mph and the FireFly continues to accelerate, the stick is slowly pulled back to maintain 55 mphi. If at any time during the climb out the engine rpm droops or you think it is drooping, push the stick forward to maintain or increase indicated air speed." ......................... At the time I wrote the avove, the FireFly was powered by a Rotax 447, and riding on the original 4 inch Azusa wheels. By chocking the wheels, I found that the tail wheel would leave the ground at 4,000 rpm with the stick in the full back position. At 4,300 rpm the FireFly was over balanced on the main gear and would have fallen on its nose if I had not looped a safety rope over the tail wheel spring. I added a gap seal between the horizontal stabilizer and elevator, but found no improvement. After mounting the Victor 1+ and VG's on the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer and lowering the thrust line there is less of a nose over problem upon throttle opening. I have not repeated the wheel chocked test. I have added it to my things to do list. My first concern to be able to safely nurse the FireFly off wet, soft, tall grass strips with out a nose over. And so I continuously practice. Now that I have infinite choice of flaperon settings, I usually set the flaperons at five degrees down. The reason to tease the throttle is to ensure that the FireFly can only lift in to ground effect. At this point, stick pressure is released and the ground effect flight is stabilized and then the throttle is advanced and climb out initiated. With this procedure, if things are not going well, all one has to do is back off the throttle and ease the FireFly down few feet. The field that am flying out of has only one runway, and it is very rare that the wind matches the runway direction. If the wind is not gusting over 20 mph, I like to fly. This makes for interesting cross wind takeoff and landing with hangars and tall trees within less that 100 yards of the runway. The advantage of using ground effect is that it moderates the cross wind effect. If one wing gets low, ground effect pressure helps to push it back up. Upon advance of the throttle, the FireFly accelerates rapidly in ground effect to a speed that gives very good control surface response. From this point one can initiate climb out with out having to worry about PF, heading, or stall. I find that I do better with above approach, in that it reduces the pilot load and minimizes multi tasking. It allows one to leave the ground at very low speed with virtually no pf effect. Next, slow speed flight is stabilized relative to the runway which is similar a glider at the beginning of an aircraft tow. This is followed by power addition to bring the ias up to best rate of climb speed. Then climb out is initiated up through the unstable air with very effective controls. It works for me. Jack B. Hart FF004 Winchester, IN ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
From: "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 13, 2008
pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com wrote: > "I always take off with the *stick centered and full back*." > > Hi Jean, > > I have not flown a Firefly but to take off `stick fully back ` is dangerous in any plane > > I dont know who Jack is but I am surprised that he is alive. > If you take off as he suggests you will get airborne as soon as you hit flying speed. THAT IS NOT FAST ENOUGH. A slight drop in the wind or power from your engine and you will stall., just off the ground and you will at best bump heavily or at worst you will crash. You will also be stuck in ground effect until you build up some speed. > It CAN be done that way but only when you have some experience. > Er, I don't understand how this is dangerous - this is just standard soft-field takeoff technique, at least according to my training. I did this literally all the time in my FSII when I felt like doing a soft-field takeoff (unfortunately I never flew it off grass, but soft-fields were fun anyway): - Stick full back - slowly advance throttle - keep tailwheel glued to the ground - lift off in ground effect - release back pressure as needed to remain in ground effect - when safe flying speed is acheived go fly. Works in all the other planes I've flown as well including my titan.... A standard takeoff in my FSII tho was the way John described, with neutral stick instead letting the tail come up... PS: I'm thinking now about building a firefly, so I may be back in the Kolb saddle again after a while. LS -------- LS Titan II SS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219221#219221 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 13, 2008
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
In a message dated 12/13/2008 5:28:56 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com writes: I have not flown a Firefly but to take off `stick fully back ` is dangerous in any plane Hi Pat, We're talking about a Kolb here, specifically a Firefly. I fly a Kolb FireStar, which is pretty much the same model, but with slightly more wing area. I always take off with the stick fully back, because otherwise you risk pushing the nose over onto the ground. I add throttle slowly at first, but as soon as it is moving, I go to full power. It accelerates very quickly and I'm off the ground in a matter of seconds. Then I relieve the back pressure just enough to maintain a normal climb. I don't know about other Kolb models, but the Firefly and FireStar accelerate so quickly that ground effect is almost meaningless, they practically jump off the ground and climb like a bat out of &%#$@. Merry Christmas Everyone, Bill Varnes Original Kolb FireStar 500 hrs + Audubon NJ Do Not Archive **************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one place. Try it now. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Eugene Zimmerman <ez(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: VG affect on stall
Date: Dec 13, 2008
On Dec 12, 2008, at 5:41 PM, John Hauck wrote: > > I bet if you get right down to the real nitty gritty, you will > discover there is very, very little serious flight or simulated > flight testing on any UL or experiemental homebuilt. John, I bet if you get right down to the nitty gritty you will discover that most experimental planes are never actually involved in any real experimental testing. "Experimental aircraft " is in that case a misnomer. The actual testing in most cases is not a testing of the plane, but most often the real test is a test that reveals whether a person is, or is not, a real pilot. How many Kolb "planes" ever proved to be unsatisfactory as a flying experiment? How many Kolb "pilots" ever proved to be unsatisfactory as a flying experiment? In most cases it is the pilot that is ,,,,,,,,,,, "EXPERIMENTAL" It is always true in my case anyways ,,,,,,, because the EXPERIENCE is always mine. I am always "experimental" ,,,,,,,,,,,, every once in a while my plane is also. | _____|_____ *=======================R=======================* \ / ^ \ / ( /---\ ) \___/ / \ () () Eugene Zimmerman ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Eugene Zimmerman <etzimm(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: VG affect on stall
Date: Dec 13, 2008
Oooops, Looks like I just posted a duplicate. Sorry. Gene On Dec 13, 2008, at 1:05 PM, Eugene Zimmerman wrote: > > > On Dec 12, 2008, at 5:41 PM, John Hauck wrote: > >> >> I bet if you get right down to the real nitty gritty, you will >> discover there is very, very little serious flight or simulated >> flight testing on any UL or experiemental homebuilt. > > > John, > > I bet if you get right down to the nitty gritty you will discover > that most experimental planes are never actually involved in any > real experimental testing. "Experimental aircraft " is in that case > a misnomer. > > The actual testing in most cases is not a testing of the plane, but > most often the real test is a test that reveals whether a person > is, or is not, a real pilot. > > How many Kolb "planes" ever proved to be unsatisfactory as a > flying experiment? > How many Kolb "pilots" ever proved to be unsatisfactory as a flying > experiment? > > In most cases it is the pilot that is ,,,,,,,,,,, "EXPERIMENTAL" > > It is always true in my case anyways ,,,,,,, because the EXPERIENCE > is always mine. > > I am always "experimental" ,,,,,,,,,,,, every once in a while my > plane is also. > > > | > _____|_____ > *=======================R=======================* > \ / ^ > \ / > ( /---\ ) > \___/ > / \ > () () > > Eugene Zimmerman > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jimmy Young" <jdy100(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Trying a new prop
Date: Dec 13, 2008
Richard Gerard wrote: >>>With Rotax engines that means 300 to 500 RPM less than full HP RPM.<<< Richard, I got the new prop on today, but it was just too windy to fly. I did a static run up test with a thrust gauge, and was getting 255 lbs. with the new Culver prop. With the IVO, it was making 195 lbs. The with the new prop, the engine RPM would top out at 3300 rpm. But, with the IVO, the engine would hit 3600 rpm on a static thrust test. Since I didn't get to fly, I have nothing to compare yet regarding performance. I am at a new airport now, and it's a good airport to test stuff at because it has 2800 ft. of grass runway. The first good calm evening this week I hope to take the plane up and see what the improvements are, if any. At least the new prop is producing more thrust and I hope that translates into better climb performance. I'm leary of any speculation on my part just because of the improved thrust #'s. I guess it is better than finding out it has less thrust than the IVO though. I'll post the results after I go fly it. Jimmy Young Houston TX ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Eugene Zimmerman <ez(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Trying a new prop
Date: Dec 13, 2008
Jimmy, With those numbers it sounds like you should experience a significant performance improvement. Please keep us posted. Gene On Dec 13, 2008, at 6:26 PM, Jimmy Young wrote: > Richard Gerard wrote: > >>>With Rotax engines that means 300 to 500 RPM less than full HP > RPM.<<< > > Richard, > > I got the new prop on today, but it was just too windy to fly. I did > a static run up test with a thrust gauge, and was getting 255 lbs. > with the new Culver prop. With the IVO, it was making 195 lbs. The > with the new prop, the engine RPM would top out at 3300 rpm. But, > with the IVO, the engine would hit 3600 rpm on a static thrust test. > Since I didn't get to fly, I have nothing to compare yet regarding > performance. > > I am at a new airport now, and it's a good airport to test stuff at > because it has 2800 ft. of grass runway. The first good calm evening > this week I hope to take the plane up and see what the improvements > are, if any. At least the new prop is producing more thrust and I > hope that translates into better climb performance. I'm leary of any > speculation on my part just because of the improved thrust #'s. I > guess it is better than finding out it has less thrust than the IVO > though. I'll post the results after I go fly it. > > Jimmy Young > Houston TX > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com>
Subject: fired up
Date: Dec 13, 2008
Hi, I managed to get every thing squared away today and fired up the HKS. I pumped up the oil pressure yesterday by removing sparkplugs and cranking it until the pressure came up. Then I tried to start it and found that my battery would not turn it over. I brought up the quad and used jumper cables and that wasn't enough either. I spent the evening trying to figure what was up. This morning I called Jerry Olenik to see what he could tell me. I put the prop on it and brought up the truck and hooked it to that, and it fired, but was running crappy and backfiring. Called Jerry again and we went through the electrical hook up. I went back and ran a ground wire from the battery to the starter housing to make sure that it had a good ground. (apparently extremely important) I had run a ground wire from the starter housing to the ground block. Then he assured me that not being able to turn the prop over by hand was normal. (takes two and the power required is extreme) After that I got it running, actually starts pretty easy if you have the proper power to turn it over. Then it was backfiring. Another call to Jerry, found that I had hooked up the spark plug wires wrong. The wires in each module goes to different cylinders. DUH! (the only problem with the way the way I had it hooked up is that when you turn off one mag the other cylinder didn't have any power to it) Then I found that I wasn't showing oil pressure. Another call to Jerry, he suggested things to look at. I asked how tight the plastic fittings on the oil hoses could be tightened. Turns out they are painted alum and I didn't have them tight enough. Another DUH! That solved my pressure problem, but it was still running rough and backfiring. Jerry suggested that it might be denotation due to me using 89 octane. Off Karen and I went to Jordan Valley to buy premium, over icy roads. She is getting to be one of those old ladies like on the commercial "You are driving like a bat out of Hell"! :-) When we got back I fired it up again, no back firing, runs pretty smooth. The best is that it is half the noise of a 503. I plan to submit to Jerry a HKS for dummies type book, since I am quite sure that I made every possible mistake (misteak) that was possible. Larry C ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ted Cowan" <tc1917(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: 912
Date: Dec 14, 2008
mea culpa, mea culpa. I guess I had a brain fart. dont know what I was thinking when I posted that. I know the butterfly is for the throttle, yet I stated otherwise. I know and understand how the carb works -- is a bitch to set up from 582 linkage. I am old and getting older I guess. maybe I should go back to a razor scooter. my data bank is working good, my rememberance is wrong. I still like the enricher circuit on the 447 and 503 better than a plunger style on any kolb. you can troubleshoot it better. ted cowan, idiot, alabama, slingshot. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 14, 2008
We're talking about a Kolb here, specifically a Firefly. >> Hi Bill, I wouldn`t like to try it on any plane but if it works and keeps on working safely I guess thats good enough. I fly the Extra and have her up to full throttle more or less as soon as the tail rises. Never had a problem with the high thrust line except when I dropped a wheel in a rut while taxying and stood her on her nose and wiped the pitot off. The Challenger was the same. Obviously not on the ground because of the nosewheel but if you went to full power on a go-round it was something to watch for. No great trouble, just be aware. Still don`t like the idea of being nose high at marginal flying speed though. How does JH do it? Comments John? Cheers Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Masqqqqqqq(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 14, 2008
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Remember, an UltraStar is unique among Kolbs because of the high tailboom, low engine arrangement. The tailwheel has to be about 3- 4 feet off the ground to level the wings for flight configuration. To takeoff, open the throttle with all controls centered. Adjust for P factor and crosswind as needed to keep the machine going straight as speed builds. When you feel the tail get responsive, a slight forward push on the stick will raise the tail to flight position. Center stick again to build speed for takeoff. When you achieve that speed, slight back on the stick and you are airborne. Taking off with the tail still on the ground can be done, but you're 'mushing' along, flirting with a stall. Landing the UltraStar is sort of opposite takeoff......... meaning, fly the main wheels onto the ground, and as your speed reduces, let the tail settle down. I tried 3 point landings, but putting the tail that low while flying slow results in a stall and a rough and bouncing landing. Only after putting Vortex Generators on the wings, could I do a 3 point landing. In a message dated 12/13/2008 4:28:56 A.M. Central Standard Time, pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com writes: "I always take off with the *stick centered and full back*." Hi Jean, I have not flown a Firefly but to take off `stick fully back ` is dangerous in any plane I dont know who Jack is but I am surprised that he is alive. If you take off as he suggests you will get airborne as soon as you hit flying speed. THAT IS NOT FAST ENOUGH. A slight drop in the wind or power from your engine and you will stall., just off the ground and you will at best bump heavily or at worst you will crash. You will also be stuck in ground effect until you build up some speed. It CAN be done that way but only when you have some experience. I never look at the ASI on takeoff. You do not fly small aircraft by the numbers with a co pilot calling V1, V2. Advance the throttle smoothly with the stick forward, the tail will come up in a few yards and you can ease off on the stick to balance the plane on its wheels. Smoothly push the throttle to full power. The plane will tell you when she wants to fly. Hold it like that for a couple of seconds as the speed builds and then ease the stick back and you will climb away with no trouble. You have gliding experience you will know that you do not pull into a steep climb until you have some height. Cables break and engines pack up. Good luck Pat (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List) **************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one place. Try it now. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Kolb high thrust line.
From: "poorboy" <hartungj(at)srt.com>
Date: Dec 14, 2008
Gretings fellow flyers. I have been enjoying the reading of the posts, mostly I sit on the sidelines and look through the window of the postings. Reading the topics I am stirred up to comment on one of my fears, that is giving advice on flying technique and in particular the latest one on take off procedures. I suppose that my recent poor performance has brought me to the position of relearning some things, which has been a good thing, and in particular the review of reading all the postings has been a value. I recently changed my plane from a Poorboy to an Ultrastar and the takeoff power is quite different so I got into a bit of a scare several times because my bad habit of holding the stick back and taking off with lots of thrust available. A big engine like a 503 with a 70 prop made a lazy pilot out of me and I frequently violated the rules of common sense because with lots of power you can transition from not flying speed to flying with a steep takeoff angle and climb out and hardly realize you are doing it. WWEEEEEEEEE, lots of fun but potentially dumb! This has the potential of putting me in the position of no thrust with steep angle of attack (and quickly no airspeed), if this happens close to the ground (under 100 ft) it may do more than just bang up my planeouch to me When I started back flying an Ultrastar (this is my second Ultrastar) I quickly saw that my tactics were wrong. Now I was flying a 50 propeller with UL202 35hp, in the air this is adequate power and is a good flying plane but is marginal on a 700ft runway, I dont like being marginal and it scares me. A good portion of the problem lies in my poor takeoff procedure as holding the stick back on this plane actually slowed down the takeoff, increased the takeoff roll and the plane staggered into the air. I needed additional lesson from an instructor and review to get straightened out. This turned out to be quite nice flying plane, the engine ran flawlessly but the marginal performance (50 inch warp drive with adj. Experiments showed it was pitched very close to optimum) still it left me discontent for this runway has obstructions and I have sold the airplane and am now building a 1993 Firestar kit that was not finished. This is my second firestar (1st one 1991 rotax 377) and I had a mark III (1997 rotax 503). The point of my comment is that I seem to acquire patterns or habits that meet the experience necessities of the plane I am currently flying and in so doing my judgment and comments to others becomes skewed, that means I prefer to be careful when giving advice as I have lost the objectivity of view required for folks who have an other frame of reference from their last flying experience. The safe way out of this for me is to recommend them to an instructor; never-the-less these pages of comments are great and with that in mind allow my summarization of what I remembered differences in Kolbs. Ultrastar procedures. 1000 to 1200 ft. runway is adequate (unobstructed preferred), throttle up, stick forward or neutral to pick up the tail, take off roll is shortest with the wing angle of attack at close to zero until flying speed and gentle ease back on stick to lift off in ground effect or close to that height (ground effect generally one wingspan range of ground height) and let speed build a bit before entering climb out angle and rate. A great flying airplane, no handling surprised and it generally just does what you tell it to, very nice landing approach control. 35hp. UL202 has limited power as compared to some of the other Kolbs but is well suited to the plane, if a landing go around is required there is the need to recognize it early and add power soon enough if obstructions are part of the equation. My take offs are 500ft range for the best short ones and 700ft isnt long enough if Im doing it wrong. This is my experience with the two Ultrastars I have had, others may be better pilots or have other variables of weight and power that give different results. Firestar and Mark III. My experiences as I remember them were similar with these models as far as takeoff and landing are the subject, generally they are the same configuration. I have flown (owned) the short cab Firestar, flown a borrowed Firestar 2 long cab, and owned the Mark III. I have not flown a Firefly that has the most in common with the old short cab Firestar, the Firefly has a 22ft. wing and a flaperon control mixer. I will use the Firestar in general as a descriptive airplane subject as the high mounted engine configuration is present in all of these models. The Firestars need a modified procedure and awareness from many other airplanes, particular to Firestars is there high thrust line. Tractor airplanes and pushers with the prop thrust line even or below the line of the wing have much less of the tendencys that Kolb Firestars suffer from. My opinion is that they SUFFER from this feature as well as have the benefits of getting the prop high enough to allow efficient prop length (and the additional benefit of excellent aircraft fold up ability with the engine and prop out of the way of the folded wings), this is a reasonable trade off as Kolb sales have demonstrated. The down side of this high thrust line is substantial and should not be (in good flying practice) safely ignored. The 1st issue of high thrust line is adding power at takeoff, with the stick at neutral a quick throttle to full will put the Firestar on its nose often with damage, this is not a tendency present in most other aircraft. In order to compensate for this resultant action I hold the stick full back at early power addition and early roll for takeoff, but then I need to more neutral the stick as the tail becomes effective and in control, if the stick is left full back you encourage early takeoff and hard climb right into early flight, this is potentially dangerous and unnecessary. A safe and normal takeoff does not include a risky maneuver like early hard climb, this is special procedure for short field obstructed takeoff and good pilot judgment will try to avoid that. It takes a bit of practicing combinations of adding power more slowly and stick position for reasonable lift off speed and speed addition at low angle of attack before climb out. I notice that practice is what I need to keep from bobbing down the runway trying to balance that high thrust line and input stick control power issues, in actual application I tend to get lazy and just blast off with the stick too far back and allow the engine to haul my dumb butt up. The 2nd issue of high thrust line is quick throttle changes in flight will result in nose up with quick decrease power and nose down tendency when quickly adding power. The tendency is not serious in normal flight with altitude but certainly can be an issue during the landing cycle. The first answer here is not get caught in a situation when large power setting changes are quickly required, the faster you make those throttle changes the more pronounced the result. In particular note that on approach if you find out a bit late that you need to adjust the glide path angle a throttle adjustment will complicate the issue and without experience (practice) you are in for a surprise. I will stick my neck out here and say that the most common BAD landing incidents here is an approach that is judged for correction late in the cycle and a quick power addition will drive the aircraft right into the ground, this has damaged lots of Kolbs. How does that ring with you guys. Well that was a mouthful anyway, hope it was enjoyable if not viewed as accurate. Jim Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219324#219324 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 14, 2008
From: TheWanderingWench <thewanderingwench(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Fw: UL: Chuck Slusasczyk - CGS Hawk
Hi Kolbers, This was sent out to the UL list by Steve Bensinger, and knowing that many of you may know Chuck, thought I'd pass it on. Arty Trost Sandy, Oregon >Chuck's wife, Pixie, asked me to let you all know that Chuck had a >stroke a little over a week ago. After some time in ICU he's now in >the rehab center and doing very very well. He's up and around and >almost back to his old self. No word yet on when he'll be going home >- he could be in rehab for a while. >Cards can be sent to Chuck at: >Parma Community General Hospital >Rehab Center, Room 453 >7007 Powers Blvd. >Parma, OH 44129 >The shop is open for business as usual, with Chuck Capaldi and Nick >holding down the fort. Pixie is now checking Chuck's email (their >computer was down for the last week, too), and will forward your >questions to the guys in the shop. >Please keep the ol' chicken thief in your thoughts this holiday >season. - Steve Bensinger ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "The Kuffels" <kuffel(at)cyberport.net>
Subject: VG research
Date: Dec 14, 2008
The NASA research on VGs which I read over 30 years ago concluded the best spanwise spacing occurred when the vortices generated just met at the training edge of the wing. The vortices spread from each generator at an included angle of 15 degrees. Thus, the farther forward the generators, the farther apart they can be and still be fully effective. Don't remember the details about chordwise location but they ended up at 10% - 15% of local chord. Whenever I get my FireStar flying I'll use these numbers as a starting point for my VG experimenting. Tom Kuffel Whitefish, MT ________________________________________________________________________________
From: GeoR38(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 14, 2008
Subject: Re: Fw: UL: Chuck Slusasczyk - CGS Hawk
In a message dated 12/14/2008 4:46:08 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, thewanderingwench(at)yahoo.com writes: Hi Kolbers, This was sent out to the UL list by Steve Bensinger, and knowing that many of you may know Chuck, thought I'd pass it on. Arty Trost Sandy, Oregon >Chuck's wife, Pixie, asked me to let you all know that Chuck had a >stroke a little over a week ago. After some time in ICU he's now in >the rehab center and doing very very well. He's up and around and >almost back to his old self. No word yet on when he'll be going home >- he could be in rehab for a while. >Cards can be sent to Chuck at: >Parma Community General Hospital >Rehab Center, Room 453 >7007 Powers Blvd. >Parma, OH 44129 >The shop is open for business as usual, with Chuck Capaldi and Nick >holding down the fort. Pixie is now checking Chuck's email (their >computer was down for the last week, too), and will forward your >questions to the guys in the shop. >Please keep the ol' chicken thief in your thoughts this holiday >season. - Steve Bensinger Thank you for the heads up on "Chuck", Arty....Although he was just an acquaintance of mine I always felt that I knew him more than I did as he was so homey and open in the way he carries himself. Besides, his hawk was the main contender of the Firestar that I ultimately purchased from Homer, back in "90 as Chuck's business was only a few miles from where I lived in Warren, Ohio. I will send a card and wish him well. George Randolph Firestar driver in The Villages, Fl **************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one place. Try it now. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Poly Tone paint
Date: Dec 14, 2008
Kolb people, I have an expertise question for someone who knows their stuff about applying Poly Tone paint. For me, at the present time, it will be difficult to spray my Poly Tone paint. Too lengthy to go into, but it just would. I CAN spray, but I'd have to do it outside. My question is: Is it possible to brush on Poly Tone paint (with a very high quality brush), and it turn out with very good results. Is there anyone out there that brushed on their paint, and were pleased with the results? Or, should I just forget that idea, and plan on spraying it on? Mike Welch MkIII _________________________________________________________________ Send e-mail faster without improving your typing skills. http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_speed_122008 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Poly Tone paint
Date: Dec 14, 2008
Mike, I doubt you would be happy with the result. I would buy a HVLP system. Combined with a couple of portable exhaust fans and a good mask you should be alright. These systems are now available at a reasonable price from sources like harbor freight. If I were not near the end of my project career I would get one myself. BB On 14, Dec 2008, at 6:45 PM, Mike Welch wrote: > > > Kolb people, > > I have an expertise question for someone who knows their stuff > about applying > Poly Tone paint. > > For me, at the present time, it will be difficult to spray my > Poly Tone paint. > Too lengthy to go into, but it just would. I CAN spray, but I'd > have to do it outside. > > My question is: Is it possible to brush on Poly Tone paint (with > a very high > quality brush), and it turn out with very good results. > Is there anyone out there that brushed on their paint, and were > pleased with > the results? Or, should I just forget that idea, and plan on > spraying it on? > > Mike Welch > MkIII > > _________________________________________________________________ > Send e-mail faster without improving your typing skills. > http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail? > ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_speed_122008 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 14, 2008
Patrick: I fly the airplane. My MKIII, landing gear configuration and location being different from stan dard Kolb configuration, doesn't suffer from the dreaded nose over. It als o has a little aft cg, so it sort of flies off by itself. When I fly other Kolbs, I usually fly them the same way. I tell the airpla ne what I want it to do and do it. I have no standard procedure for takeoffs. Conditions are constantly chang ing. This dictates changes in how I fly. john h mkIII How does JH do it? Comments John? Cheers Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Arksey(at)AOL.COM
Date: Dec 14, 2008
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Hi gang, Here is my 2 cents worth.....I fly a firestar ll 503, but I was taught to fly in J-3 cub and my instructors had me hold the stick full back when going to full power, the plane would start rolling forward, then going forward with the stick until the tail came up, then holding the stick so that the tail was up in a wheel landing attitude until flying speed, than back on the stick and climb at speed correct for climb out to altitude. I do the same in the firestar and it works just fine for me...I sure like the firestar and it sure has good traits on takeoff and landing...well just my 2 cents worth....a bit of snow on ground up here in michigan and sort of cold...so have not been flying....Jim Swan do not archive jim swan FS ll 503 michigan **************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one place. Try it now. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Arksey(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 14, 2008
Subject: RE: fired up
Hi Larry, keep us informed of the HKS ....it should be a excellent engine for the firestar.....jim swan do not archive jim swan FS ll 503 michigan **************Make your life easier with all your friends, email, and favorite sites in one place. Try it now. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Poly Tone paint
Date: Dec 14, 2008
> Not a chance Mike...The poly tone would melt the poly spray -poly > brush and make a mess...Herb > > its the acetone and mek.... Yup!! I think you pegged it, Herb. I hadn't considered that. That's all I needed to know. Thanks Mike Welch _________________________________________________________________ Send e-mail anywhere. No map, no compass. http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_anywhere_122008 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Poly Tone paint
Date: Dec 14, 2008
> > Yup!! I think you pegged it, Herb. I hadn't considered that. That's > all I needed to know. Thanks > > Mike Welch I've seen a few cars and tractors painted with a brush, but would not be too proud of any of them. john h - None of these were painted with a brush. ;-) mkIII - 1993 OSH Grand Champion Light Plane 1993 Sun and Fun Reserve Grand Champion Light Plane Firestar - 1989 OSH Grand Champion Ultralight 1988 Sun and Fun Grand Champion Ultralight ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Poly Tone paint
Date: Dec 14, 2008
> john h - None of these were painted with a brush. ;-) > > mkIII - 1993 OSH Grand Champion Light Plane > 1993 Sun and Fun Reserve Grand Champion Light Plane > Firestar - 1989 OSH Grand Champion Ultralight > 1988 Sun and Fun Grand Champion Ultralight John H., I was curious if it was possible to do a nice paint job with a brush. Evidently not! I won't do anything but a professional looking job!! However, my friend Myron, (you met him last spring at Monument Valley) "TOLD" me he painted his entire plane with a brush Using Poly Tone Paint. And it looks DAMN nice!!! But, the fact is, I don't think he was entirely truthful. The airport regulations forbid ANY spraying of paint products. He may have told me he used a brush, so that I would think he was obeying the law in his hangar. My curiosity was if this scenario was possible. I would say "not likely." I am not in contact with him any longer. Mike Welch PS. I bought a car once that was painted with a brush, or a roller. 1961 Falcon. They used kitchen latex paint. It had about 30 lbs.of Bondo to cover the rust, spread by hand. It was a junker while I lived in Okinawa for a couple years 1971-1973. Ran like a champ, tho!! _________________________________________________________________ Send e-mail faster without improving your typing skills. http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_speed_122008 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 15, 2008
this is just standard soft-field takeoff technique,>> Hi Lucien, I would quite agree, but that is a technique to deal with a particular situation. If it is imperative that you get off the ground as quickly as possible then you are willing to trade something else, in this case safety. I once had to put the Challenger down in a small, very rough field when the teeth came off the drive belt when I was on the approach.Next morning I changed the belt, pushed the plane back as far as I could into the hedge, and went for it. I bounced into the air off the first of a series of hummocks and arrived with a crunch that rattled my fillings on the next one. I just grazed the third hummock with a heavy jolt and was airborne. I wouldn`t describe it as flying. I managed to struggle high enough to get over a 4 foot hedge and settled down again into ground effect as I crossed the next field building speed to pull up to about 50ft to cross a road.. By then I was flying properly and I chopped the throttle and landed on my own strip, quite surprised to find the wings still attached and the undercart in one piece. The short take off technique worked but I was very familiar with the Challenger, knew what to expect, and dealt with the situation accordingly BUT it was not a technique I would teach a guy with very little experience as a standard take off procedure. That was the situation with the guy who sent the post which started this thread. Cheers Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 15, 2008
I fly the airplane.>> Thanks John. Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 15, 2008
It works for me. >> Hi Jack, Fair enough but is that a technique you would recommend to an inexperienced learner? Would you be happy to be told that was the way to do it with only a few take offs under your belt. Messing about in ground effect just above the stall is not something most instructors would suggest. You obviously have had experience of soft field, long grass flying and have evolved a technique to deal with it which works. If I ever have to deal with water hidden in long grass on the runway I will remember the way you do it and be profoundly grateful. Alternatively I might leave the plane in the hangar. Cheers Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 15, 2008
2 wait until the water temp gets near a boiling>> Hi Robert, Love that bit. LOL Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Video Camcorder Editing Help.
From: "grantr" <grant_richardson25(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 15, 2008
I got a Sony DCR-SR45 30GB Handycam Camcorder http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=8198552921665291488 So far I like the camcorder. It takes very clear video and is fun to use! The problem I have is what to do with the video when I put it on the computer. My camcorder records in MPEG-2 format. Windows movie maker, real player, quicktime and win amp will not play these files or edit them. Real player will start playing but the picture freezes. The files can be converted to WMV files but that takes a while an decreases the quality of the video. I am not looking for any thing real elaborate for editing. I just need to be able to dub over some background narration or music, Cut out sections of the video. I believe this is called video trimming. The software that came with the camera will trim but it saves each trimmed section as an individual video file and there is no way to merge the file with another video file to make a movie. Windows movie maker seems to be ok but it does not work with my file type. Any suggestions? I prefer freeware if it is available. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219414#219414 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Video Camcorder Editing Help.
Date: Dec 15, 2008
Grant, when I have nothing better to do and the nordic elements hereabouts are forbidding I intend to embark on the same pursuit. I bought a Toshiba player/recorder that will dub either way. It will play several formats so I will dub the disc to tape which is easy to edit, then back to disc. I haven't tried that routine yet but so far it has done a good job converting VHS to disc. BB On 15, Dec 2008, at 8:35 AM, grantr wrote: > > > I got a Sony DCR-SR45 30GB Handycam Camcorder > > http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay? > catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=8198552921665291488 > > So far I like the camcorder. It takes very clear video and is fun > to use! > > The problem I have is what to do with the video when I put it on > the computer. My camcorder records in MPEG-2 format. Windows movie > maker, real player, quicktime and win amp will not play these files > or edit them. > > Real player will start playing but the picture freezes. The files > can be converted to WMV files but that takes a while an decreases > the quality of the video. > > I am not looking for any thing real elaborate for editing. I just > need to be able to dub over some background narration or music, Cut > out sections of the video. I believe this is called video trimming. > The software that came with the camera will trim but it saves each > trimmed section as an individual video file and there is no way to > merge the file with another video file to make a movie. Windows > movie maker seems to be ok but it does not work with my file type. > > Any suggestions? I prefer freeware if it is available. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219414#219414 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 15, 2008
From: "Robert Laird" <rlaird(at)cavediver.com>
Subject: Re: Video Camcorder Editing Help.
I'm lucky enough to have access to commercial software, but, for free video editing, you could try this: http://fixounet.free.fr/avidemux/ I've not tried it, but it looks decent. -- Robert On Mon, Dec 15, 2008 at 7:35 AM, grantr wrote: > > I got a Sony DCR-SR45 30GB Handycam(R) Camcorder > > http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=8198552921665291488 > > So far I like the camcorder. It takes very clear video and is fun to use! > > The problem I have is what to do with the video when I put it on the computer. My camcorder records in MPEG-2 format. Windows movie maker, real player, quicktime and win amp will not play these files or edit them. > > Real player will start playing but the picture freezes. The files can be converted to WMV files but that takes a while an decreases the quality of the video. > > I am not looking for any thing real elaborate for editing. I just need to be able to dub over some background narration or music, Cut out sections of the video. I believe this is called video trimming. The software that came with the camera will trim but it saves each trimmed section as an individual video file and there is no way to merge the file with another video file to make a movie. Windows movie maker seems to be ok but it does not work with my file type. > > Any suggestions? I prefer freeware if it is available. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219414#219414 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
From: "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 15, 2008
pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com wrote: > this is just standard soft-field takeoff technique,>> > > Hi Lucien, > I would quite agree, but that is a technique to deal with a particular > situation. If it is imperative that you get off the ground as quickly as > possible then you are willing to trade something else, in this case safety. > Sorry, but I'm just not understanding how proper soft-field takeoff technique is a compromise in safety. I was never trained that way and it has never been my experience that correct technique involved a safety hazard. If done correctly, there's nothing unsafe about a soft-field takeoff - you take the same precautions there as you do with any takeoff. So I'm confused..... > > I once had to put the Challenger down in a small, very rough field when the > teeth came off the drive belt when I was on the approach.Next morning I > changed the belt, pushed the plane back as far as I could into the hedge, > and went for it. I bounced into the air off the first of a series of > hummocks and arrived with a crunch that rattled my fillings on the next one. > I just grazed the third hummock with a heavy jolt and was airborne. I > wouldn`t describe it as flying. I managed to struggle high enough to get > over a 4 foot hedge and settled down again into ground effect as I crossed > the next field building speed to pull up to about 50ft to cross a road.. By > then I was flying properly and I chopped the throttle and landed on my own > strip, quite surprised to find the wings still attached and the undercart > in one piece. > > The short take off technique worked but I was very familiar with the > Challenger, knew what to expect, and dealt with the situation accordingly > BUT it was not a technique I would teach a guy with very little experience > as a standard take off procedure. That was the situation with the guy who > sent the post which started this thread. > > Cheers > > Pat Er, yeah I wouldn't teach a takeoff like that either! No offense, but instead I'd teach how to dismantle and trailer the plane out of that field rather than try to actually fly out of it. An integral part of takeoff training is learning when not to attempt it. If you're bending metal or close to it like this, you made a mistake long before you put the coals to it. No safe SF takeoff involves whacking the airframe on not one but multiple dirtbars on the takeoff run........ I don't consider this a typical soft-field takeoff situation and certainly nothing a student should ever be exposed to...... LS -------- LS Titan II SS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219432#219432 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 15, 2008
From: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
> >Fair enough but is that a technique you would recommend to an inexperienced >learner? Would you be happy to be told that was the way to do it with only a >few take offs under your belt. Messing about in ground effect just above the >stall is not something most instructors would suggest. > Pat No, I do not recommend an inexperienced learner try this technique. But anyone can learn this technique by using a long runway under no wind conditions, and then progressing on to low cross wind winds, etc. The time to learn it is when you don't need to use it. After you land in tall grass or water puddles in grass is not the time to make your first attempt. What I recommend before flying a FireFly and taken from the top of the page that I recommended to Jean: http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/howtofly.html "If you have had little to no flight instruction, I strongly urge you get flight instruction before attempting your first flight in the FireFly. You need to understand the basic rudimentary physical principles of flight, so that you will be able to analyze what is going on and so that you can react appropriately to the normal unexpected things that happen during any flight. During slow flight, you need to understand, experience, and practice how to recover from stalls and spins. In addition, during landings you must be able to initiate forward slips and side slips to enable you to lose altitude, and to handle cross winds. When all of these skills have been developed to the point that they are almost automatic, you will have little trouble transition to the FireFly. The following observations come from several years experience getting the FireFly and myself ready to fly. Hopefully, these comments will be helpful but I am sure they are not all encompassing." > >Messing about in ground effect just above the stall is not something most >instructors would >suggest." > I agree, but few, if any instructor is used to flying a 500 lb gross weight aircraft with four inch wheels off of grass. One other point. There is nothing wrong with flying in ground effect if you keep tabs on your ASI. The problem comes when one is overcome by the illusion that ground and air speed are the same. It is unfortunate the most hazardous part of flight, the transition to and from flight through ground effect is ignored by most instructors and yet, I feel, it is one of the most important to learn for very light aircraft. I taught my self by flying a 4,000 foot runway at progressively lower speeds on a no wind day with the wheels no more than three feet above the ground. Then I repeated the same process in a light cross wind etc and finally progressed to gusty cross winds. I would bump a wheel once in a while, but I improved. With practice and no wind or flaperons, it is possible to fly/taxi the FireFly with the tail planted and main gear off the runway surface. Fly Safe! Jack B. Hart FF004 Winchester, IN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 15, 2008
With practice and no wind or flaperons, it is possible to > fly/taxi the FireFly with the tail planted and main gear off the runway > surface. > > Jack B. Hart FF004 Jack: I'm curious. What is the purpose of this exercise? How do you control pitch attitude with the tailwheel on the ground and the mains flying. I'm not sure I understand why all this concern about ground effect. Kolbs and other aircraft, fixed as well as rotary, require less power to fly in ground effect. Our Kolbs fly so well, most of the time we don't know when we are in it or out of it. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 15, 2008
No, I do not recommend an inexperienced learner try this technique. But anyone can learn this technique by using a long runway etc..>> No disagreement there Jack Cheers Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 15, 2008
From: herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com>
Subject: Poly Tone paint
Easiest way to prove it is to make a foot square test frame Mike.... Herb At 09:38 PM 12/14/2008, you wrote: > > > > john h - None of these were painted with a brush. ;-) > > > > mkIII - 1993 OSH Grand Champion Light Plane > > 1993 Sun and Fun Reserve Grand Champion Light Plane > > Firestar - 1989 OSH Grand Champion Ultralight > > 1988 Sun and Fun Grand Champion Ultralight > >John H., > > I was curious if it was possible to do a nice paint job with a brush. > > Evidently not! I won't do anything but a professional looking job!! > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
From: "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 15, 2008
John Hauck wrote: > > Jack: > > I'm curious. What is the purpose of this exercise? > > How do you control pitch attitude with the tailwheel on the ground and the > mains flying. > > I'm not sure I understand why all this concern about ground effect. Kolbs > and other aircraft, fixed as well as rotary, require less power to fly in > ground effect. Our Kolbs fly so well, most of the time we don't know when > we are in it or out of it. > > john h > mkIII Don't mean to butt in again, but I'm with John on this - my FSII and thereofre I should think all Kolbs, fly just fine in ground effect. I'm still a little mystified about these claims that flying in ground-effect is dangerous and not something students should be exposed to, etc. This is very basic training in fixed-wing airplanes, you're exposed to it pretty much right away when you start on landings and takeoffs. I got hours and hours of training in this as a student in both GA and light a/c from my various instructors. I submit problems with flying in GE are training issues rather than problems with the plane. I did this literally all the time in my FS II when practicing landings, low approaches and takeoffs..... Someone help me out here ;)..... LS -------- LS Titan II SS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219447#219447 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 15, 2008
If done correctly, there's nothing unsafe about a soft-field takeoff - you take the same precautions there as you do with any takeoff. So I'm confused.....>> Sorry that you are confused Lucien. I just don`t see that dragging a plane off the ground before it is really ready to go is good technique. If there are special circumstances , short field , soft field, standing water, tall obstructions close by then of course you would use techniques evolved to deal with that situation. I have flown from a field which is steeply sloped. The only way to land is to land uphill through a farm gate entrance and to take off downhill the opposite way.. Wind direction is not in the equation. That is a technique to deal with a specific problem and is as safe as it can be made but presumably you would not advocate teaching it to a low hours pilot or contend that landing and take off down wind is a desirable thing in normal conditions.. All I am saying is that taking off while holding the tail down CAN be done and in specific conditions MUST be done but it is not normal take off technique. I read once that Gann, the pilot and author, was once by mistake overloaded with fuel. He just made it into the air but could only just stay airborne. His speed was OK so he cleaned up the plane, retracted flaps and wheels. Then to his horror he found he was headed straight for the Taj Mahal getting close enough that he could see the fearstricken workmen scrambling off the scaffolding which surrounded it. Being unable to climb over it Gann dropped his flaps and achieved that extra bit of lift we all experience when lowering flaps. This just bumped him high enough. Now that was a technique to suit a particular situation but I presume that you wouldn`t teach it as normal. Good. Now we can have a thread about wether it is possible to increase your height by dropping flaps. Cheers Pat Cheers Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 15, 2008
Don't mean to butt in again, but I'm with John on this - my FSII and thereofre I should think all Kolbs, fly just fine in ground effect. I'm still a little mystified about these claims that flying in ground-effect is dangerous and not something students should be exposed to, etc. This is very basic training in fixed-wing airplanes, you're exposed to it pretty much right away when you start on landings and takeoffs. I got hours and hours of training in this as a student in both GA and light a/c from my various instructors. I submit problems with flying in GE are training issues rather than problems with the plane. I did this literally all the time in my FS II when practicing landings, low approaches and takeoffs..... Someone help me out here ;)..... LS -------- LS Titan II SS Lucien, I think I can bring some clarity into Pat's problem with this technique. You are basing your observations on how a Kolb acts and reacts, while he is basing his on a Challenger. :-) Did you think the name was by chance? (The devil made me do it) Larry C ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 15, 2008
From: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
> > With practice and no wind or flaperons, it is possible to >> fly/taxi the FireFly with the tail planted and main gear off the runway >> surface. > > >> Jack B. Hart FF004 > > >Jack: > >I'm curious. What is the purpose of this exercise? There is none, except that it can be done. > >How do you control pitch attitude with the tailwheel on the ground and the >mains flying. Throttle > >I'm not sure I understand why all this concern about ground effect. Kolbs >and other aircraft, fixed as well as rotary, require less power to fly in >ground effect. Our Kolbs fly so well, most of the time we don't know when >we are in it or out of it. John, I do not believe there is much reason to worry about it in heavier and faster aircraft. Think of risk management and cross wind speed versus stall speed. Assume you are going to take off in a 20 mph cross wind. Comparing wind to stall speed, this would give 44% for 45 mphi and 74% for 27 mphi stall speed. Also comparing 1,000 lb to 500 lb gr wt, which is going to get blown around more on takeoff and which pilot is going to be the busiest and who is at greater risk? Control surface effectiveness is greater in ground effect and cross wind shear is less close to the ground, so it is better to stabilize and accelerate the aircraft at this point before moving on up into the full effects of the cross wind. Before I changed out the ailerons, modified the control system and added VGs, I would not have attempted to takeoff in a cross wind of more than 5 mph. This is the best I can do. Jack B. Hart FF004 Winchester, IN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 15, 2008
Assume you are going to take off in a 20 mph cross wind. > > Jack B. Hart FF004 Jack: Kolbs do not have enough yaw attitude authority to overcome a 20 mph cross wind. Somewhere below 20 mph the Kolb will begin to weather vane. Rudder becomes pretty much useless. VGs or no VGs. More than once I have had to find some place to land into the wind because the wind overpowered the rudder, at the risk of wetting my pants because my bladder was full. Full bladder was reason for landing in the first place. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 15, 2008
circumstances when you would want to get into ground effect early: 1. long draggy grass or brush which would otherwise prevent attaining flying speed. 2. rough plowed ground 3. wet snow. done 'em all BB On 15, Dec 2008, at 11:27 AM, pj.ladd wrote: > > If done correctly, there's nothing unsafe about a soft-field > takeoff - you take the same precautions there as you do with any > takeoff. > So I'm confused.....>> > > Sorry that you are confused Lucien. > > I just don`t see that dragging a plane off the ground before it is > really ready to go is good technique. > If there are special circumstances , short field , soft field, > standing water, tall obstructions close by then of course you would > use techniques evolved to deal with that situation. I have flown > from a field which is steeply sloped. The only way to land is to > land uphill through a farm gate entrance and to take off downhill > the opposite way.. Wind direction is not in the equation. > That is a technique to deal with a specific problem and is as safe > as it can be made but presumably you would not advocate teaching it > to a low hours pilot or contend that landing and take off down wind > is a desirable thing in normal conditions.. > All I am saying is that taking off while holding the tail down CAN > be done and in specific conditions MUST be done but it is not > normal take off technique. > I read once that Gann, the pilot and author, was once by mistake > overloaded with fuel. He just made it into the air but could only > just stay airborne. His speed was OK so he cleaned up the plane, > retracted flaps and wheels. Then to his horror he found he was > headed straight for the Taj Mahal getting close enough that he > could see the fearstricken workmen scrambling off the scaffolding > which surrounded it. Being unable to climb over it Gann dropped his > flaps and achieved that extra bit of lift we all experience when > lowering flaps. This just bumped him high enough. > Now that was a technique to suit a particular situation but I > presume that you wouldn`t teach it as normal. > > Good. Now we can have a thread about wether it is possible to > increase your height by dropping flaps. > > > Cheers > > Pat > Cheers > > Pat > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 15, 2008
From: "Bill Eslick" <wgeslick(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Video Camcorder Editing Help.
I have been using a free program called "any video converter". Google it up and give it a try. Bill Eslick On Mon, Dec 15, 2008 at 7:35 AM, grantr wrote: > > I got a Sony DCR-SR45 30GB Handycam(R) Camcorder > > > http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=8198552921665291488 > > So far I like the camcorder. It takes very clear video and is fun to use! > > The problem I have is what to do with the video when I put it on the > computer. My camcorder records in MPEG-2 format. Windows movie maker, real > player, quicktime and win amp will not play these files or edit them. > > Real player will start playing but the picture freezes. The files can be > converted to WMV files but that takes a while an decreases the quality of > the video. > > I am not looking for any thing real elaborate for editing. I just need to > be able to dub over some background narration or music, Cut out sections of > the video. I believe this is called video trimming. The software that came > with the camera will trim but it saves each trimmed section as an individual > video file and there is no way to merge the file with another video file to > make a movie. Windows movie maker seems to be ok but it does not work with > my file type. > > Any suggestions? I prefer freeware if it is available. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219414#219414 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 15, 2008
From: possums <possums(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Video Camcorder Editing Help.
At 08:35 AM 12/15/2008, you wrote: > >I got a Sony DCR-SR45 30GB Handycam=C2=AE Camcorder > >http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId =10551&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=8198552921665291488 > >So far I like the camcorder. It takes very clear video and is fun to use! > >The problem I have is what to do with the video >when I put it on the computer. My camcorder >records in MPEG-2 format. Windows movie maker, >real player, quicktime and win amp will not play these files or edit them. I use Studio 10 - but the new version is Studio 12 - not free - about $50 http://www.pinnaclesys.com/PublicSite/us/Products/Consumer+Products/Home+Vid eo/Studio+Family/ You might click on "see what's new with Version12" and run the tutorial. It supports Video: DV, AVI, MPEG-1, MPEG-2, DivX=AE*, MPEG-4*, 3GP(MPEG-4)*, WMV, Non-encrypted DVD title After editing, I always save it as a MPEG-4 file & upload it that to goggle or youtube. Or burn it to HD disc for the TV. If you're just trying to play the MPEG-2 - copy it from the chip to your desktop & play it from there. That will keep it from sticking while you play it on your computer most of the time. Sample of one done pretty quick & dirty. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-3487102474967847487&hl=en ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
From: "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 15, 2008
pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com wrote: > > Sorry that you are confused Lucien. > > I just don`t see that dragging a plane off the ground before it is really > ready to go is good technique. > > I've never heard of anything like that being taught. I've never encountered this in any training situation I've ever been in regardless of plane, instructor or situation. No soft-field technique I've ever been taught involved anything close to that and I don't recall ever doing this personally. What you described in your particular scenario - bouncing over at least 3 large dirt mounds, then clearing a hedge and then a road after a major, but untested, repair to the prop drive system - is not in any PTS for any rating I'm aware of. But it's quite right to say that that's definitely not safe takeoff practice! > > All I am saying is that taking off while holding the tail down CAN be done > and in specific conditions MUST be done but it is not normal take off > technique. > I read once that Gann, the pilot and author, was once by mistake overloaded > with fuel. > Here again is another training item I'm not familiar with. Knowingly taking off over over gross is just plain verboten under all circumstances the way I was taught. Or at least, doing so puts you in test pilot territory and at your own risk. > > > He just made it into the air but could only just stay airborne. > His speed was OK so he cleaned up the plane, retracted flaps and wheels. > Then to his horror he found he was headed straight for the Taj Mahal getting > close enough that he could see the fearstricken workmen scrambling off the > scaffolding which surrounded it. Being unable to climb over it Gann dropped > his flaps and achieved that extra bit of lift we all experience when > lowering flaps. This just bumped him high enough. > Now that was a technique to suit a particular situation but I presume that > you wouldn`t teach it as normal. > Actually, I wouldn't teach this technique of dodging buildings and people while over gross as normal or safe under _any_ circumstances at all, so yes, you're quite right. Again, I'd be instructing some other method than flight as the alternative here, such as a vehicle for the pilot and a trailer for the plane. You're right - you're definitely not talking about good training or safety here.... LS -------- LS Titan II SS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219523#219523 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
From: "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 15, 2008
lcottrell wrote: > > Lucien, I think I can bring some clarity into Pat's problem with this technique. You are basing your observations on how a Kolb acts and reacts, while he is basing his on a Challenger. :-) Did you think the name was by chance? (The devil made me do it) > Larry C > I appreciate the attempt but this doesn't help me too much. Every plane I've flown so far flies just fine in ground effect, even the one or two trikes both single and double-surface. The Kolb is in large company in this regard.... LS -------- LS Titan II SS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219524#219524 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "The Kuffels" <kuffel(at)cyberport.net>
Subject: Re: VG research
Date: Dec 16, 2008
Scott, << If the best location chordwise is when the vortices meet at the trailing edge then couldn't you calculate backwards from the TE to find the sweet spot for mounting the VG's? >> kuffel(at)cyberport.net wrote: << best spanwise spacing occurred when the vortices generated just met at the training edge of the wing. The vortices spread from each generator at an included angle of 15 degrees. >> Not really. There are two independent variables, spanwise spacing and chord location. Once you decide on a given chord location then geometry does tell you the minimum useful spanwise spacing. Any more generators than this minimum spacing will not improve matters and might make things worse. Don't remember how NASA (actually it might have been a NACA report) decided on 10% - 15% of chord for subsonic wings but that range seems to be what is used by all the VG vendors, both experimental and certified. Tom Kuffel Whitefish, MT Building Original FireStar ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Video Camcorder Editing Help.
From: "Dave Bigelow" <up_country(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 16, 2008
The important thing about your camcorder movies is to end up with a product that you or anyone else can play and enjoy without special equipment. For most, that means getting your movies into DVD format. Also, it is nice to be able to convert your videos to a format that you can upload to YouTube, etc. I've tried a lot of editing applications, and have had very good luck with Ulead Visual Studio 11. You can edit just about any format, and go as simple or elaborate as you wish. You can convert your edited videos to just about any format known to man. It's not free, but is worth every penny. Why go to all the trouble of taking videos and then not get good tools to share them with the world? Visual Studio (and most other editing apps) need some computing power to work well. I'd recommend a duo core processor, lots of memory, a big hard drive, and a good graphics card. -------- Dave Bigelow Kamuela, Hawaii FS2, HKS 700E Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219563#219563 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Video Camcorder Editing Help.
Date: Dec 16, 2008
Why go to all the trouble of taking videos and then not get good tools to share them with the world? >> Hi Dave, All that presupposes that the world actually wants to see them. Judging from the general standard of filming displayed on the net the perpetrators would be well advised to keep their productions to themselves until they have mastered some basic technique. A few are superb but most....yuck! Cheers Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 16, 2008
<> Sorry Lucien, either we speak different languages or you don`t read very carefully. I specifically said "loaded by mistake" nothing at all about `knowingly taking off etc` >From what I remember of the story the refuelling crew were instructed to put in a specific amount of fuel but instead filled the tanks. I am not going to get into the question of whether Gann should have checked the amount. It is just the story as I remember it and its years since I read it.. As for my `take off with an untested repair`. Replacing a faulty drive belt with a new one hardly calls for a major investigation. In any case that is entirely beside the point. The object of the story was to illustrate that in that instance there WAS a case for dragging the plane off the ground as quickly as possible as it was a small very rough field and a NORMAL take off run was impractical. That encapsulates what I have said all along. You CAN take off with the tail on the ground but unless you need to what is the point? I think this has been hammered to death. Let us just leave it. I shall continue to take off in what I consider a safe manner and no doubt you will do the same. Incidentally if you have never come across Ganns books I think his initials are D.W and there was at least one film derived from one of his stories. Well worth reading. Merry Christmas Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
From: "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 16, 2008
pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com wrote: > > Sorry Lucien, either we speak different languages or you don`t read very > carefully. I specifically said "loaded by mistake" nothing at all about > `knowingly taking off etc` > Regardless of why, taking off over gross is a training issue and thus has nothing to do correct takeoff technique. Negligence of this type doesn't say anything about the technique used to get in the air, at that point you can't and shouldn't rely on the results you get. > > As for my `take off with an untested repair`. Replacing a faulty drive belt > with a new one hardly calls for a major investigation. In any case that is > entirely beside the point. The object of the story was to illustrate that in > that instance there WAS a case for dragging the plane off the ground as > quickly as possible as it was a small very rough field and a NORMAL take off > run was impractical. > The way I see it, no takeoff at all, regardless of technique used, could have been the correct method to use in that situation. Dirt bars, bushes and roads directly in the path of the takeoff and clearly too close to clear safely is only a case for not attempting flight period and don't support the use of any takeoff method. Trailering techniques, OTOH, could have been effectively taught in a situation like that. > > That encapsulates what I have said all along. You CAN take off with the tail > on the ground but unless you need to what is the point? > > I think this has been hammered to death. Let us just leave it. I shall > continue to take off in what I consider a safe manner and no doubt you will > do the same. > Well, good luck to you, LS -------- LS Titan II SS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219578#219578 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Eugene Zimmerman <ez(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Re: Video Camcorder Editing Help.
Date: Dec 16, 2008
On Dec 16, 2008, at 3:44 AM, Dave Bigelow wrote: > . I'd recommend a duo core processor, lots of memory, a big hard > drive, and a good graphics card. Dave, sounds like an Apple Mac advertisement. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: russ kinne <russ(at)rkiphoto.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 16, 2008
On Dec 16, 2008, at 7:41 AM, pj.ladd wrote: > > <> > > Sorry Lucien, either we speak different languages or you don`t > read very carefully. I specifically said "loaded by mistake" > nothing at all about `knowingly taking off etc` >> From what I remember of the story the refuelling crew were >> instructed to put > in a specific amount of fuel but instead filled the tanks. > I am not going to get into the question of whether Gann should have > checked the amount. It is just the story as I remember it and its > years since I read it.. > > As for my `take off with an untested repair`. Replacing a faulty > drive belt with a new one hardly calls for a major investigation. > In any case that is entirely beside the point. The object of the > story was to illustrate that in that instance there WAS a case for > dragging the plane off the ground as quickly as possible as it was > a small very rough field and a NORMAL take off run was impractical. > > That encapsulates what I have said all along. You CAN take off with > the tail on the ground but unless you need to what is the point? > > I think this has been hammered to death. Let us just leave it. I > shall continue to take off in what I consider a safe manner and no > doubt you will do the same. > > Incidentally if you have never come across Ganns books I think his > initials are D.W and there was at least one film derived from one > of his stories. Well worth reading. > > Merry Christmas > > Pat > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: choke or primer
From: "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 16, 2008
> [quote="beauford"]On the Bing enrichment circuit: > > The small enrichment piston which is raised by either a lever on the carb, or by a cable to a remote > "choke" lever has a small nitrile rubber insert set in a cavity in the base. The rubber insert will gradually > deteriorate and deform with age, thereby allowing additional (excessive) fuel to leak through the enrichment circuit and dump into the engine. > > This occurs gradually over many hours and may not be detected until excessive carbon shows up in the top end > of the engine, possibly causing stuck rings and potentially serious problems. > > Some of you Listers may recall Beauford's fun with this problem in the Nazi 447 a few years back... In my ignorance about what was happening, I ended up chasing back and forth with metering rod adjustments, jetting changes, > fouled plugs, etc.... I had repeatedly checked the enrichment piston's function, verifying that it was bottoming into the seat properly...the problem was that the rubber insert had receded up into the base of the thing and I did not notice it. because it looked fine...the rubber was not obviously cracked or split. > > Long story, short... The guys over at Lockwood took one look and immediately diagnosed the problem...said that they had seen a number of Rotax 2-strokes trashed with this... and that the Bing enrichment piston ought to be replacd every 2 years or so as a matter of routine maintenance....especially with PREMIXED fuel which attacked the nitrile faster than straight gas... One can only wonder what the ethanol is doing to these things. As I recall, the part cost under $10.... which was certainly substantially less than the two new pistons I had to buy after the carbon had seized the rings... > > I now keep an extra enrichment piston on hand... > > ...worth what ye paid fer it... > > beauford > FF-076 > Brandon, FL > > > > > --- Beauford, Is there a website or article in the CPS catalogue that talks about replacing the parts you are talking about (or did you just get the information by word of mouth from Lockwood)? I would like to read more about it. Can you look at your old receipts and tell me what part(s) I would need to order? All, We got my choke cables working correctly now. The choke wasn't stuck on...it was never opened. There was a washer (that prevented the cable housing from sliding into the metal tube) that hadn't been replaced when we put everything back together. (But this doesn't help me solve the mystery of the excessive smoking when we first started it up...but that could be another thread on the forum.) Thanks for everyone's input and advice. -------- Cristal Waters Kolb Mark II Twinstar Rotax 503 DCSI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219590#219590 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: choke or primer
Date: Dec 16, 2008
(But this doesn't help me solve the mystery of the excessive smoking when we first started it up...but that could be another thread on the forum.) > -------- > Cristal Waters Cristal: Two strokes tend to load up with excessive oil in the crank case when run slowly for long periods of time. As soon as rpm is increased, it will clear it out, along with a lot of smoke. Another reason not to let a two stroke idle any longer than necessary. Another reason the run a two stroke in the power band and not lug them down at lower rpm. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2008
From: william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net>
Subject: re: choke or primer
- John- Considering that taxiing and parking may involve low engine speed s, what would be an appropriate shut-down procedure? - ------------------------- ---------------- Bill Sullivan ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: re: choke or primer
Date: Dec 16, 2008
Bill: I don't know. I'd keep low engine speeds to a minimum though. What does your operators manual say? john h mkIII John- Considering that taxiing and parking may involve low engine speeds, what would be an appropriate shut-down procedure? Bill Sullivan ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2008
From: "beauford T" <beauford173(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: choke or primer
Sister Cristal: I initially discovered what was going on from the Lockwood mechanics... I have never seen a discussion of this problem in written form anyplace... The mechanics I talked to were certainly familiar with it... Per your question... Reference the 2009 CPS catalog, page 143, pertaining to the Bung...er...Bing 36 mm... I assume from your reference to the cables that you are using the cable configuration to work your enrichment/choke... In that case the part is Bing "starting piston" # 963-740. If you were using the lever type choke, it is called Bing "choke piston" part # 268-847. Hope this helps... worth what ye paid fer it... beauford of Brandon FF -076 Brandon, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com> Beauford, Is there a website or article in the CPS catalogue that talks about replacing the parts you are talking about (or did you just get the information by word of mouth from Lockwood)? I would like to read more about it. Can you look at your old receipts and tell me what part(s) I would need to order? All, We got my choke cables working correctly now. The choke wasn't stuck on...it was never opened. There was a washer (that prevented the cable housing from sliding into the metal tube) that hadn't been replaced when we put everything back together. (But this doesn't help me solve the mystery of the excessive smoking when we first started it up...but that could be another thread on the forum.) Thanks for everyone's input and advice. -------- Cristal Waters Kolb Mark II Twinstar Rotax 503 DCSI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219590#219590 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Darndest thing I ever saw!!
Date: Dec 16, 2008
Kolb guys and girls=2C A few weeks back=2C a guy from Bonaco Inc. offered to send for free (yes =2C free!!!) a complete set of brake lines to the first person to furnish t o him the necessary dimensions for said brake lines. The person who respon ded to his request was me. It also just happens that I am just about ready to install such brake lines=2C but I didn't have any=2C yet. Well=2C lo and behold=2C guess what showed up in the mail today. My very own FREE=2C custom-made complete brake line set=2C including all appropria te AN fittings to complete the installation. Whoa!! No way!! Yes=2C way! ! This complete brake line set is some of the nicest looking parts I do bel ieve I've ever seen. The quality is impeccable. The attached photo does n ot do the parts justice!! The stainless steel braid has a clear plastic co at. The AN fittings are anodized and are aircraft quality. Truly good stu ff. This set of brake lines was free=2C cost me nothing=2C but the time to fu rnish measurements=2C and was otherwise at no charge at all. Can't beat th at with a stick!!! My guess at the approximate value would be just over $100. I will be purchasing more items in the future from this company. I need a flexible fuel line=2C rather than the solid steel tube fuel line I was using. I will be ordering it from them. Not only because of this excellent marketing plan=2C but be cause I have the parts in my hand=2C and they are top notch quality!! Evidently=2C the old addage "there ain't no such thing as a free lunch" i sn't completely true! At least in my case=2C there is such a thing as a once in a lifetime free o ffer. I've got the goods to prove it!! Mike Welch MkIII PS For your own quality hoses I highly recommend giving Brett at Bonaco=2C Inc. a call. He can be found at 909-985-3429. Their products are featur ed at www.Bonacoinc.com _________________________________________________________________ Send e-mail faster without improving your typing skills. http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_spee d_122008 /9j/4AAQSkZJRgABAAEASABIAAD//gAfTEVBRCBUZWNobm9sb2dpZXMgSW5jLiBWMS4wMQD/2wCE AAwICQsJCAwLCgsODQwPEyAUExEREyccHRcgLigwMC0oLCwzOUk+MzZFNywsQFdARUxOUlNSMT1a YFlQYElQUk8BDQ4OExATJRQUJU80LDRPT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09P T09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT//EAaIAAAEFAQEBAQEBAAAAAAAAAAABAgMEBQYHCAkKCwEAAwEBAQEB AQEBAQAAAAAAAAECAwQFBgcICQoLEAACAQMDAgQDBQUEBAAAAX0BAgMABBEFEiExQQYTUWEHInEU MoGRoQgjQrHBFVLR8CQzYnKCCQoWFxgZGiUmJygpKjQ1Njc4OTpDREVGR0hJSlNUVVZXWFlaY2Rl ZmdoaWpzdHV2d3h5eoOEhYaHiImKkpOUlZaXmJmaoqOkpaanqKmqsrO0tba3uLm6wsPExcbHyMnK 0tPU1dbX2Nna4eLj5OXm5+jp6vHy8/T19vf4+foRAAIBAgQEAwQHBQQEAAECdwABAgMRBAUhMQYS QVEHYXETIjKBCBRCkaGxwQkjM1LwFWJy0QoWJDThJfEXGBkaJicoKSo1Njc4OTpDREVGR0hJSlNU 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From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Darndest thing I ever saw!!
Date: Dec 16, 2008
This complete brake line set is some of the nicest looking parts I do believe I've ever seen. The quality is impeccable. Mike Welch MkIII Mike: Wonder how much more those lines and fittings weigh than what I have been using for the past 17 years on my mkIII? Mine are 1/8" ID X 3/16" OD plastic. Weight is negligible. Fittings are tiny. Believe they came with the MATCO brake kit. Proven to be effective and reliable. Costs: A couple dollars. john h mkIII - 2,800+ hours since 1992. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2008
From: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
> > > Assume you are going to take off in a 20 mph cross wind. > >> Jack B. Hart FF004 > > >Jack: > >Kolbs do not have enough yaw attitude authority to overcome a 20 mph cross >wind. > John, On take off you do not need all that much yaw authority. If you move the stick into the wind and back to keep the up wind main wheel and the tail wheel planted until it leaves the ground, there is no need for a rudder. After it leaves the ground, you can let it weather vane into the wind, level the wings and crab into the wind on climb out. Landing is different. You can hold in as much side slip as the rudder will permit. If the wind blows you off, then you have to decide whether to use a combination of side alip and a crab to get to the runway, and at the last second lower the up wind wing and plant the up wind wheel. In this case, I land into the wind. The landing roll is very short. Jack B. Hart FF004 Winchester, IN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 16, 2008
> On take off you do not need all that much yaw authority. > > Jack B. Hart FF004 Jack: You have written of flying in 25 mph cross winds in the past. I'd like to watch you demonstrate those maneuvers for me, as soon as I finish making double tie downs on my mkIII. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Brake lines
Date: Dec 16, 2008
John H., The brake lines furnished to me for free from Bonaco, Inc were their offering, not my choice. He asked for dimensions and these were what I got. I agree these would be more appropriate to put on my GlaStar (when I get back to working on it someday). The truth is I intended to use plastic tubing, like you have, until this offer came about. I have looked for the 1/4" plastic tubing, but I'm not sure what I have found is appropriate for brake lines. Icemaker water line just doesn't sound right!!!! Does anyone know where to get the CORRECT 1/4" plastic tubing, that would work well for brake lines on Matco calipers? (Yes, I need 1/4", that's the size of my fittings). Mike Welch MkIII Still, it was a hellava nice present for free. _________________________________________________________________ Suspicious message? Theres an alert for that. http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_broad2_122008 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Poly Tone paint
Date: Dec 16, 2008
From: "Kirby, Dennis CTR USAF AFMC MDA/AL" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
Mike Welch asked: << Is it possible to brush on Poly Tone paint (with a very high quality brush) >> Hi, Mike - I applied the Poly Tone trim colors on my Mark-III using a roller brush, with excellent results. What I discovered after a few tries was, when you first roll on the paint, tiny bubbles form on the surface. But those get smoothed out with the subsequent passes of the roller. The trick is to get the timing right on the last pass of the paint roller: if it's too SOON, the little bubbles keep forming, and if it dries this way, you'll see all the tiny circles. If it's too LATE (too dry), the roller will leave a textured finish in the paint, like orange peel. If your last roller pass is timed JUST RIGHT, the bubbles are eliminated and the paint settles out perfectly smooth. But you gotta discover the "right" timing all on your own - it'll depend on your temperature and humidity. But the short answer is, "yes," you CAN get an acceptably smooth and attractive Poly-Tone finish using a roller. Dennis Kirby Mark-3, 912ul, "Magic Bike" Cedar Crest, NM ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2008
From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
At 07:41 AM 12/16/2008, pj.ladd wrote: > From what I remember of the story the refuelling crew were instructed to > put in a specific amount of fuel but instead filled the tanks. >I am not going to get into the question of whether Gann should have >checked the amount. It is just the story as I remember it and its years >since I read it. I don't remember the details from when I read it, either, but also IIRC it was during wartime... when people often must do things with a much lower margin of safety than they'd otherwise find acceptable. >Incidentally if you have never come across Ganns books I think his >initials are D.W and there was at least one film derived from one of his >stories. Ernest K. Gann... all of his numerous flying books are worth reading. He also wrote several sea stories but I haven't read any of those. -Dana -- "The difference between death and taxes is death doesn't get worse every time Congress meets." -- Will Rogers ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2008
From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Brake lines
At 03:34 PM 12/16/2008, Mike Welch wrote: > > I have looked for the 1/4" plastic tubing, but I'm not sure what I have > found is >appropriate for brake lines. Icemaker water line just doesn't sound right!!!! > > Does anyone know where to get the CORRECT 1/4" plastic tubing, that > would work well >for brake lines on Matco calipers? (Yes, I need 1/4", that's the size of >my fittings). No, icemaker tubing is usually polyethylene. You want the hard nylon tubing, which is rated for much higher pressure... I got mine from McMaster-Carr. You need to know the inside diameter too; they have it in several different ID's. -Dana -- "The difference between death and taxes is death doesn't get worse every time Congress meets." -- Will Rogers ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Brake lines
Date: Dec 16, 2008
> No, icemaker tubing is usually polyethylene. You want the hard nylon > tubing, which is rated for much higher pressure... I got mine from > McMaster-Carr. You need to know the inside diameter too; they have it in > several different ID's. > > -Dana Dana, Yeah, I know icemaker tubing wouldn't do. Polyethylene and polyurethane tubing are not strong enough for the job. I was being facetious. I have found a few sources that do sell the high pressure nylon tubing. Thanks for the McMaster-Carr tip. I'll check with them. Mike Welch MkIII _________________________________________________________________ Send e-mail faster without improving your typing skills. http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_speed_122008 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2008
From: jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Brake lines
Aircraft Spruce sells the stuff you need, line & connectors. You are aware that most aircraft brake assembles use red transmission fluid not the very corrosive clear hydraulic fluid like used in automobiles. They package cans labeled for aircraft use. jerb At 06:31 PM 12/16/2008, you wrote: > >At 03:34 PM 12/16/2008, Mike Welch wrote: >> >> I have looked for the 1/4" plastic tubing, but I'm not sure what >> I have found is >>appropriate for brake lines. Icemaker water line just doesn't >>sound right!!!! >> >> Does anyone know where to get the CORRECT 1/4" plastic tubing, >> that would work well >>for brake lines on Matco calipers? (Yes, I need 1/4", that's the >>size of my fittings). > >No, icemaker tubing is usually polyethylene. You want the hard >nylon tubing, which is rated for much higher pressure... I got mine >from McMaster-Carr. You need to know the inside diameter too; they >have it in several different ID's. > >-Dana >-- > "The difference between death and taxes is death doesn't get worse every >time Congress meets." -- Will Rogers > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Brake lines
Date: Dec 16, 2008
> Aircraft Spruce sells the stuff you need, line & connectors. You are > aware that most aircraft brake assembles use red transmission fluid > not the very corrosive clear hydraulic fluid like used in > automobiles. They package cans labeled for aircraft use. > jerb Thanks Jerb for the Aircraft Spruce reference. I looked and looked for it there, but could never seem to come up with it. I found it, thanks. Yes, I'm very much aware of the differences in brake fluid between an airplane and a car. I still have some of my red brake fluid left over from topping off my Cessna's brakes. Mike Welch MkIII _________________________________________________________________ Send e-mail faster without improving your typing skills. http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_speed_122008 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Installation
Date: Dec 16, 2008
> I've added a couple pics of the engine installation on me Xtra. > -------- > Scott Hi Scott: You mentioned oil temp and water temp on your engine installation web page. The 912ULS (and 912UL) are concerned with oil temp and cylinder head metal temp. Don't believe there are limits for water temp since it is not a required parameter to measure. There are three temp three temp senders on the engine. They are identical. One is for engine oil temp, and the other two measure #2 and #3 CHT (one for tractor and one for pusher configuration). I discovered the engine runs better is the CHT is kept above 180F. Nothing in the book about that. You will probably have to block part of the coolant radiator to get the CHT and engine oil temp up to the minimum of 190F (to burn off condensation in the oil system). John W kept each end of his radiator taped year round. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Installation
Date: Dec 16, 2008
> I've added a couple pics of the engine installation on me Xtra. > -------- > Scott Scott: Missed the location of the oil cooler. Will be interested to see how well it cools in that location. Probably will be ok. I piggy back my oil cooler on the radiator. My oil temps run higher than average, even with the largest size Rotax cooler, except, of course, during the winter months. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 17, 2008
Ernest K. Gann.! Of course. Stupid me. Senior moment. Thanks Dana Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 17, 2008
I'm sure you're talking about Ernest K. Gann,>> Hi Russ, quite right. Just me being thick. The High and the Mighty was the film which I had in mind,. Thanks for the list of books, there were a few there I hadn`t read. Cheers Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 17, 2008
Agreed. If you haven't read it, do it. So real you will feel you are there.>> Hi Robert, I remember there was a passage in one book describing a flight into a fijord in Iceland(?) during a transatlantic flight. Clag closed the top and the Airforce base was right at the inland end . There were a couple of bad direction changes to be negotiated and the it was straight into the airstrip with no room to turn round and try again. One try only. It had me on the edge of my seat. great stuff. thanks for putting me right on the initials, everybody Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2008
From: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off > >I'd like to watch you demonstrate those maneuvers for me, as soon as I >finish making double tie downs on my mkIII. < John, I am some what puzzled by your cross wind problem. I have thought about it a little and may be I can help out a little. You have said you are self taught and I wonder if you are proficient at cross controlled flying especially side slipping? I assume you are. Not all Kolbs are the same and this includes your MKIIIC. There are several changes that you have done to your plane that make it more yaw sensitive. First, you have moved your main gear forward. This moves the cg further behind the main gear. What you gained in nose over prevention you lost in making the plane more squirrelly in yaw on the ground. To compound this you have added additional fuel capacity and weight. If you do not have baffles in the tank, fuel sloshing while making a take off run in a gusty cross wind will cause yaw problems. With your admitted aft cg and flying heavy, you will lose some roll authority at low speed, and this will reduce ones ability to hold the plane steady in gusty cross wind on take off. VG's can help overcome this situation, in that, they will improve aileron effectiveness at low speed, and they will move the center of lift back from the cg. A couple of other factors that can make your plane less ground yaw stable is incorrect toe in, camber and tire pressure. If the toe in is not neutral and/or camber is not positive under load, the plane will be squirrely on a gusty cross wind take off. If you are running low pressure tires the rolling resistance is a function of the load, and so as the plane rocks from side to side it will want to turn in that direction. For what it is worth. Fly safe! Jack B. Hart FF004 Winchester, IN ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 17, 2008
Jack I think you have misunderstood John's message. First let me assure you John and his plane are more than up to the task of handling the upper limits of any Kolb cross wind landing. Two things. First, we all need to be very careful not to overstate the capabilities of our airplanes so that less experienced pilots will not try to handle weather they think is safe because someone has said it was safe. Second, less experienced pilots tend to over estimate the actual cross wind component that they have landed in. I think we should follow John's lead in reporting accurate limits of our aircraft. Pounding our chests and stating "I can land in a higher cross wind" isn't a good thing to do here. Rick Neilsen Redrive VW powered MKIIIC ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 8:44 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off > > From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off > >> >>I'd like to watch you demonstrate those maneuvers for me, as soon as I >>finish making double tie downs on my mkIII. > < > > John, > > I am some what puzzled by your cross wind problem. I have thought about > it > a little and may be I can help out a little. > > You have said you are self taught and I wonder if you are proficient at > cross controlled flying especially side slipping? I assume you are. > > Not all Kolbs are the same and this includes your MKIIIC. There are > several > changes that you have done to your plane that make it more yaw sensitive. > First, you have moved your main gear forward. This moves the cg further > behind the main gear. What you gained in nose over prevention you lost in > making the plane more squirrelly in yaw on the ground. To compound this > you > have added additional fuel capacity and weight. If you do not have > baffles > in the tank, fuel sloshing while making a take off run in a gusty cross > wind > will cause yaw problems. > > With your admitted aft cg and flying heavy, you will lose some roll > authority at low speed, and this will reduce ones ability to hold the > plane > steady in gusty cross wind on take off. VG's can help overcome this > situation, in that, they will improve aileron effectiveness at low speed, > and they will move the center of lift back from the cg. > > A couple of other factors that can make your plane less ground yaw stable > is > incorrect toe in, camber and tire pressure. If the toe in is not neutral > and/or camber is not positive under load, the plane will be squirrely on > a > gusty cross wind take off. If you are running low pressure tires the > rolling resistance is a function of the load, and so as the plane rocks > from > side to side it will want to turn in that direction. > > For what it is worth. > Fly safe! > > Jack B. Hart FF004 > Winchester, IN > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 17, 2008
> I am some what puzzled by your cross wind problem. I have thought about > it > a little and may be I can help out a little. > > Jack B. Hart FF004 Hi Jack: All aircraft have a ultimate cross wind component limit. I don't know what Kolbs limits are, but probably around 15 mph in a direct cross wind. After that there just ain't enough rudder to align the aircraft with the runway. Landing is much more critical than takeoff in high cross wind conditions, probably because there is much less air moving over the rudder, and other flight controls, during landings. I have found it helpful to use short burst of power to help align the aircraft just prior to and during touch down, especially on paved strips. Grass and gravel strips are much more forgiving when touching down or taking off while crabbing. If all cross winds were steady, it would make operating in them much easier. But, normally, they are not. Gusty wind conditions play havoc on very light aircraft. Many times we find ourselves, momentarily, in a "along for the ride" condition. I find my modified Kolb as good or better handling rough air and cross winds than the standard Kolbs I fly. Maintaining runway alignment during takeoffs is not a problem, normally. I do a lot better negotiating rough air and cross winds the more I fly. Lately, I haven't been flying much. In fact, I'm pushing three months since my last flight, returning from the Kolb Homecoming in Kentucky. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2008
From: "Richard Girard" <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: choke or primer
Cristal, Get yourself a free copy of the Rotax Illustrated Parts Catalog at: http://www.rotax-owner.com/ Click on support, find engine manuals. While it won't necessarily give you a procedure, the break down drawing should give you a good idea about how it all goes together. You'll certainly get all the current part numbers, at least. Rick On Tue, Dec 16, 2008 at 9:16 AM, cristalclear13 < cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com> wrote: > cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com> > > > > [quote="beauford"]On the Bing enrichment circuit: > > > > The small enrichment piston which is raised by either a lever on the > carb, or by a cable to a remote > > "choke" lever has a small nitrile rubber insert set in a cavity in the > base. The rubber insert will gradually > > deteriorate and deform with age, thereby allowing additional > (excessive) fuel to leak through the enrichment circuit and dump into the > engine. > > > > This occurs gradually over many hours and may not be detected until > excessive carbon shows up in the top end > > of the engine, possibly causing stuck rings and potentially serious > problems. > > > > Some of you Listers may recall Beauford's fun with this problem in the > Nazi 447 a few years back... In my ignorance about what was happening, I > ended up chasing back and forth with metering rod adjustments, jetting > changes, > > fouled plugs, etc.... I had repeatedly checked the enrichment piston's > function, verifying that it was bottoming into the seat properly...the > problem was that the rubber insert had receded up into the base of the > thing and I did not notice it. because it looked fine...the rubber was not > obviously cracked or split. > > > > Long story, short... The guys over at Lockwood took one look and > immediately diagnosed the problem...said that they had seen a number of > Rotax 2-strokes trashed with this... and that the Bing enrichment piston > ought to be replacd every 2 years or so as a matter of routine > maintenance....especially with PREMIXED fuel which attacked the nitrile > faster than straight gas... One can only wonder what the ethanol is doing > to these things. As I recall, the part cost under $10.... which was > certainly substantially less than the two new pistons I had to buy after > the carbon had seized the rings... > > > > I now keep an extra enrichment piston on hand... > > > > ...worth what ye paid fer it... > > > > beauford > > FF-076 > > Brandon, FL > > > > > > > > > > --- > > > Beauford, > Is there a website or article in the CPS catalogue that talks about > replacing the parts you are talking about (or did you just get the > information by word of mouth from Lockwood)? I would like to read more > about it. Can you look at your old receipts and tell me what part(s) I > would need to order? > > All, > We got my choke cables working correctly now. The choke wasn't stuck > on...it was never opened. There was a washer (that prevented the cable > housing from sliding into the metal tube) that hadn't been replaced when we > put everything back together. (But this doesn't help me solve the mystery > of the excessive smoking when we first started it up...but that could be > another thread on the forum.) > > Thanks for everyone's input and advice. > > -------- > Cristal Waters > Kolb Mark II Twinstar > Rotax 503 DCSI > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219590#219590 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2008
From: "VICTOR PETERS" <vicsv(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Installation
That install looks good. i had a chute to contend with up front. I don't know about the 100 hp but John was right when he said the 912ul runs cool. Just before that i had removed my oil cooler and saw 190 deg for the first time. He also mentioned (John H.) quite awhile back that the 912 didn't like conical filters. Maybe he could comment on that again as I have forgotten. Vic Xtra 912ul conical filters ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2008
From: "VICTOR PETERS" <vicsv(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Hey Jack, As a novice with 3.5 legal hrs. with Instructor and only 6 seconds of solo I don't under stand Why you would crab into the wind on take off if you already weather vaned into it. "After it leaves the ground, you can let it weather vane into the wind, level the wings and crab into the wind on climb out." How do you slip and crab simu, simul, together? "If the wind blows you off, then you have to decide whether to use a combination of side alip and a crab to get to the runway, and at the last " Thanks in advance for the free instruction. Vic ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2008
From: "VICTOR PETERS" <vicsv(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Jack That reminds me of another question, Pats brain cramps are catching. I noticed while taxying with a cross wind if rudder input was not enough, aileron in the opposite direction would bring it in line. Soooo how would you (I) be able to keep a wing down into the x wind? Vic ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2008
From: "Richard Girard" <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Brake lines
Mike, You'll need to put a UV shield over it where it's out in the light and it's good for 20 years. Rick On Tue, Dec 16, 2008 at 2:34 PM, Mike Welch wrote: > > > John H., > > The brake lines furnished to me for free from Bonaco, Inc were their > offering, not my choice. He asked for dimensions and these were what I > got. > I agree these would be more appropriate to put on my GlaStar (when I get > back > to working on it someday). > > The truth is I intended to use plastic tubing, like you have, until this > offer came about. > > I have looked for the 1/4" plastic tubing, but I'm not sure what I have > found is > appropriate for brake lines. Icemaker water line just doesn't sound > right!!!! > > Does anyone know where to get the CORRECT 1/4" plastic tubing, that would > work well > for brake lines on Matco calipers? (Yes, I need 1/4", that's the size of > my fittings). > > Mike Welch > MkIII > > Still, it was a hellava nice present for free. > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Suspicious message? There's an alert for that. > > http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_broad2_122008 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Installation
Date: Dec 17, 2008
Hi Vic: The 100 horse generates much more heat than the 80. My understanding is the Bing carbs on the 912's were not designed to operat ed in the pusher configuration, air stream blasting the air filters and car b intakes head on. Frank Reyen designed a way to reverse the intake manifo lds and fly his carbs on the back side of the engine. On BMW two cylinder engines, the carbs are mounted on the back side of the cylinders. The Bing has two static ports is it reading to decide where the piston will be loca ted, in conjunction with the throttle valve, to adjust mixture. One port i s what is commonly referred to as the float chamber vent tube and the other is a port on the lip of the carb intake. These ports need to be reading u ndisturbed static pressure in order to do their jobs correctly. John W ove rcame this by running the flat (cake pan) type K&N filters. I did it with filter covers that came with a carb heat system I purchased some time back. Before I installed the covers, airflow would blown the fuel vapor stand o ff at the mouth of the carb out the side of the filter and on the carb and engine. My 912 engines ran ok with conical filters, but made a mess of bro wn fuel stain on them. One of these days I will remove the filter covers a nd see if I can detect any difference in performance. john h mkIII That install looks good. i had a chute to contend with up front. I don't know about the 100 hp but John was right when he said the 912ul runs cool. Just before that i h ad removed my oil cooler and saw 190 deg for the first time. He also mentioned (John H.) quite awh ile back that the 912 didn't like conical filters. Maybe he could comment o n that again as I have forgotten. Vic ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Brake lines
Date: Dec 17, 2008
Rick: If you are referring to the clear plastic brake line like I am using, mine has no UV shield and it is pushing 18 years service. john h mkIII ----- Mike, You'll need to put a UV shield over it where it's out in the light and it's good for 20 years. Rick ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com>
Subject: parts needed for sync of dual carbs
Date: Dec 17, 2008
I notice that Lockwood has a dual carb sync kit for around $79.00, Seems like a lot of money for a one time use. Would it be worthwhile to build one from available parts? Any body done it? Minus 6 this morning. BRRRRRR Larry C ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: choke or primer
From: "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 17, 2008
Why Choke (enricher) OR Primer? Why not both, each performing a separate function? When I bought my FS1 w/447, it was very hard starting. It had only the enricher circuit, which for reasons I'm still not sure of, was not much help in getting it started when cold. It would take 6-8 pulls before it would get rich enough to fire. Yes, it has an electric fuel pump used to make sure there is fuel in the float chambers before attempting a start. My hard starting fix was to install a squeeze bulb primer teed off the main fuel supply line and plumbed to the nipple (designed for this purpose) just downstream of the butterfly valve. To start I give the bulb one squeeze to give the carb throat a little raw fuel, shut off the valve to this branch of the line and start it with a single pull of the rope. The squeeze bulb primer is used only for a starting squirt and then isolated from the rest of the fuel system during running. The shut-off valve is important because this branch is located on the suction side of the mechanical pump. Without the shut-off valve, the mechanical pump could draw air thru this branch from the carburetor if the check valve in the squeeze bulb failed. Once started, the enricher can be shut down as the engine warms up. It is simpler than it sounds when I read this description and works perfectly. -------- Thom Riddle N1208P RANS S6S, Tailwheel, 912UL N197BG FS1/447 -------------------- It is by universal misunderstanding that all agree. For if, by ill luck, people understood each other, they would never agree. - Charles Baudelaire Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219793#219793 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: choke or primer
Date: Dec 17, 2008
> Why Choke (enricher) OR Primer? Why not both, each performing a separate function? > > -------- > Thom Riddle Thom: I've had excellent results with enrichers on two and four stroke Rotax engines. If the engine and carb is set up correctly, and the enricher circuit is in good shape, it'll fire right up in many different climatic conditions. If not, then there is something wrong with enricher system and/or engine. johnh mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: choke or primer
From: "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 17, 2008
I'm sure you are right, John. I didn't take the carb apart to check out the enricher. Instead I did what I said, which is something I had intended to do anyway. -------- Thom Riddle N1208P RANS S6S, Tailwheel, 912UL N197BG FS1/447 -------------------- It is by universal misunderstanding that all agree. For if, by ill luck, people understood each other, they would never agree. - Charles Baudelaire Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219800#219800 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: choke or primer
Date: Dec 17, 2008
> I'm sure you are right, John. I didn't take the carb apart to check out the enricher. Instead I did what I said, which is something I had intended to do anyway. > > -------- > Thom Riddle Thom: I'm sorry. I misunderstood your msg. Thought you put the primer on because you couldn't get your 447 to start with the enricher. "When I bought my FS1 w/447, it was very hard starting. It had only the enricher circuit, which for reasons I'm still not sure of, was not much help in getting it started when cold. It would take 6-8 pulls before it would get rich enough to fire. Yes, it has an electric fuel pump used to make sure there is fuel in the float chambers before attempting a start." I was trying to emphasize enrichers work if set up and operated correctly. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: parts needed for sync of dual carbs
Date: Dec 17, 2008
Larry: Its 66F at hauck's holler. Sun is trying to burn off this crud and I'm goi ng to commit aviation. After all the talk of sync'ing carbs with vacuum gauges, I purchased to hig h quality, viscous dampened vaacuum gauges. Made me a carb sync board and did a job on the 912ULS. My mechanical settings were as close as the vacuu m gauges could get. Accidently broke one gauge, put it into the prop ;-(, and am back to mechanical sync'ing again. I am satisfied with the results. I bet you can sync the HKS carbs mechanically using the procedure in the 91 2 maint manual. Don't intend to spend any more money on vacuum gauges. john h mkIII I notice that Lockwood has a dual carb sync kit for around $79.00, Seems like a lot of money for a one time use. Would it be worthwhile to build one from available parts? Any body done it? Minus 6 this morning. BRRRRRR Larry C ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off
Date: Dec 17, 2008
Narssarssuaq (sp?) in Greenland.>> Yeah. Well I knew it was partway across the Atlantic Thanks. Must 30 years since I read that book Cheer Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2008
From: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off - Cross Wind Landings
Richard, If I have not made my self clear on this List, then I apologize. I feel like I always recommend practice and training. I make no apology for recommending that fellow FireFlyers and/or Kolbers practice cross wind landings. I have gotten caught on return trips where the wind was too high to make a cross wind landing. It is easily detected by setting up a side slip on final approach. If you drift off you have to take a different approach. I assume the FireFly has the advantage in this case because one can turn into the wind and land on a cross taxiway or a ramp with very low ground touch down speed. The MKIIIC can be flown the same way but the roll out would be longer due to the higher stall/approach speed. I do worry about inexperienced pilots being told that all Kolb models fly the same, they don't. I worry about the inexperienced being told that aft cg is unimportant. Is this chest pounding? Well, I guess it is. This List is a good forum for telling it like it is. Several people on this list have had accidents, and they have come forward and told it like was, so that we all could learn from their experience. In the last few years some "good and experienced" Kolb pilots have been killed. The last was John W. Several people on this list were present, but we have not seen a good description of what they saw, if they saw anything. Was he flying through a down draft on the back of a mountain? Did he have medical emergency? Since he was camping was he flying with an aft cg? Most likely we will never know. Most likely what will injure or kill you is what you didn't know until it is too late. So practice and practice. So lets keep it safe. Jack B. Hart FF004 Winchester, IN > >Jack > >I think you have misunderstood John's message. First let me assure you John >and his plane are more than up to the task of handling the upper limits of >any Kolb cross wind landing. > >Two things. First, we all need to be very careful not to overstate the >capabilities of our airplanes so that less experienced pilots will not try >to handle weather they think is safe because someone has said it was safe. >Second, less experienced pilots tend to over estimate the actual cross wind >component that they have landed in. > >I think we should follow John's lead in reporting accurate limits of our >aircraft. Pounding our chests and stating "I can land in a higher cross >wind" isn't a good thing to do here. > >Rick Neilsen >Redrive VW powered MKIIIC > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off - Cross Wind Landings
Date: Dec 17, 2008
If I had a steady 30 MPH crosswind to land in there would be little trouble. The key word is STEADY. The problem here is 30 MPH translates into gusts over 40 and sudden calm thus setting up the clenched grip, sweat-inducing, heart-palpitating hope for good luck. I was the grateful recipient of a piece of that luck one time this summer in my stubborn insistence to land back at my home field. If I had it on video you wouldn't believe it. Drive a man to drink. (or at least one reason) BB On 17, Dec 2008, at 2:44 PM, Jack B. Hart wrote: > > > Richard, > > If I have not made my self clear on this List, then I apologize. I > feel > like I always recommend practice and training. I make no apology for > recommending that fellow FireFlyers and/or Kolbers practice cross wind > landings. I have gotten caught on return trips where the wind was > too high > to make a cross wind landing. It is easily detected by setting up > a side > slip on final approach. If you drift off you have to take a different > approach. I assume the FireFly has the advantage in this case > because one > can turn into the wind and land on a cross taxiway or a ramp with > very low > ground touch down speed. The MKIIIC can be flown the same way but > the roll > out would be longer due to the higher stall/approach speed. > > I do worry about inexperienced pilots being told that all Kolb > models fly > the same, they don't. I worry about the inexperienced being told > that aft > cg is unimportant. Is this chest pounding? Well, I guess it is. > > This List is a good forum for telling it like it is. Several > people on this > list have had accidents, and they have come forward and told it > like was, so > that we all could learn from their experience. In the last few > years some > "good and experienced" Kolb pilots have been killed. The last was > John W. > Several people on this list were present, but we have not seen a good > description of what they saw, if they saw anything. Was he flying > through a > down draft on the back of a mountain? Did he have medical > emergency? Since > he was camping was he flying with an aft cg? Most likely we will > never > know. Most likely what will injure or kill you is what you didn't > know until it is too > late. So practice and practice. > > So lets keep it safe. > > Jack B. Hart FF004 > Winchester, IN > >> >> >> Jack >> >> I think you have misunderstood John's message. First let me assure >> you John >> and his plane are more than up to the task of handling the upper >> limits of >> any Kolb cross wind landing. >> >> Two things. First, we all need to be very careful not to overstate >> the >> capabilities of our airplanes so that less experienced pilots will >> not try >> to handle weather they think is safe because someone has said it >> was safe. >> Second, less experienced pilots tend to over estimate the actual >> cross wind >> component that they have landed in. >> >> I think we should follow John's lead in reporting accurate limits >> of our >> aircraft. Pounding our chests and stating "I can land in a higher >> cross >> wind" isn't a good thing to do here. >> >> Rick Neilsen >> Redrive VW powered MKIIIC >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2008
From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Brake lines
At 05:42 PM 12/17/2008, ElleryWeld(at)aol.com wrote: >Aircraft Brake fluid is not transmission oil it is MIL-H-5606 A not >anywhere near the same stuff just because it is red in color, some brake >systems have seals that cannot take to oil like ATF it will swell the >seals up and make them fail >Use the right fluid for manufacture recommendation with the brake system >you have Part of the confusion may be from the fact that some non certified aircraft brakes (like the Free Bird brakes on my UltraStar) do indeed specify Dexron II or III automatic transmission fluid, which is also red. ATF must also be compatible with the Hegar master cylinders that control the brakes on my plane, since I've had no trouble. I can't speak for other types. -Dana -- Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Installation
Date: Dec 17, 2008
> My Rotax 912 operators manual has specs for coolant temp. > > -------- > Scott Hi Scott: Must be something new. I can take a gander at the manual on Kodiak. Thanks, john h ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Brake lines
Date: Dec 17, 2008
Part of the confusion may be from the fact that some non certified aircraf t brakes (like the Free Bird brakes on my UltraStar) do indeed specify Dexr on II or III automatic transmission fluid, which is also red. ATF must als o be compatible with the Hegar master cylinders that control the brakes on my plane, since I've had no trouble. I can't speak for other types. -Dana Dana: I have always used ATF in Hegar and Matco brakes. However, recently I saw a spec sheet that called for aviation red fluid for Matco. I have never ha d a problem with the ATF, but that is what both systems called for when I i nstalled them some time ago. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine Installation
From: "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 17, 2008
John H. I really like your conical covers for the K&N air filters that come on the 912. I also have the fuel stains you describe on my engine. I wonder even more what going through heavy rain would do to the filters, if flying through heavy rain could get them soaked enough to induce an engine failure ? Do you know where I can get a set of the covers that you have ? Mike -------- "NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have !!! Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219893#219893 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Engine Installation
From: "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 17, 2008
Scott, I really like what you did with the radiators on your Kolb, I have always thought about moving my radiators away from behind the cage, and putting a sharp V aluminum fairing back there like John H has. I was just not sure where to move the radiators to... On front of the engine would be almost no drag, and keep clean air in the prop. Where did you get the hardware to mount the radiators on the front of the engine ? I looked at your pictures, could you post a few pictures showing more of the mounting details ? Mike -------- "NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have !!! Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219895#219895 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Ultrastar: How to take-off - Cross Wind Landings
Date: Dec 17, 2008
Jack: > I do worry about inexperienced pilots being told that all Kolb models fly > the same, they don't. Have you flown all the Kolb models? Except for a little difference in size, weight, and power, they all fly the same. If I remember correctly, you have only flown your FF. However, you could crawl in a MKIII, FS, US, or Kolbra, and feel right at home after a few take offs and landings. > I worry about the inexperienced being told that aft > cg is unimportant. Is this chest pounding? Well, I guess it is. Who said that? On several occassions I have stated paper weight and balance and reality are not always the same when it comes to Kolb aircraft. If it was, my airplane would not fly. I didn't put the 11+ lb Maule Tundra Tailwheel on my mkIII to prove this point, I needed a better tail wheel, but it sort of demonstrates that paper and actuality do not agree. >In the last few years some > "good and experienced" Kolb pilots have been killed. The last was John W. > Several people on this list were present, but we have not seen a good > description of what they saw, if they saw anything. John Williamson was my best flying buddy. We spent some great time together flying cross country all over the lower 48. Our flight last May was the best yet. Here is the final NTSB report on John's accident. It was compiled from what Larry Cottrell, Roger Hankins, and I saw and heard that Sunday morning, 25 May 2008. However, probable cause was determined by the NTSB agent. The four of us have flown extensively together in this part of Oregon. To understand what a unique experience this was, one would have to have been a participant. We have been doing this since our first on the Alvord Desert in 2005. http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 080530X00757&key=1 john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: parts needed for sync of dual carbs
From: "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 17, 2008
[quote="John Hauck"] Accidently broke one gauge, put it into the prop ;-(, and am back to mechanical sync'ing again. I am satisfied with the results. I bet you can sync the HKS carbs mechanically using the procedure in the 912 maint manual. Don't intend to spend any more money on vacuum gauges. john h mkIII [quote] John, That is funny, just because I thought I was the only one to have ever done that [Wink] Thank Goodness I have a Warp Drive prop, anything less would have shattered into a million pieces. The guage was less fortunate... I am also back to mechanical adjustment, but I am not sure how close I am getting. Given your accuracy with mechanical sync, could you post your technique ? Thanks, Mike -------- "NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have !!! Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219897#219897 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Installation
Date: Dec 17, 2008
> I really like your conical covers for the K&N air filters that come on the 912. I also have the fuel stains you describe on my engine. I wonder even more what going through heavy rain would do to the filters, if flying through heavy rain could get them soaked enough to induce an engine failure ? Do you know where I can get a set of the covers that you have ? > > Mike Mike: I have spent days flying in heavy rain with never a hint of engine miss fire or failure with the conical K&N filters. Did nearly lose the engine on my FS, Rotax 447, after flying through a rain storm. It did result in a precautionary landing and I was losing power when I turned to final in a drainage ditch south of Crystal River, Florida, in Hernando County. Also ate up an unprotected wood prop. ;-( I paid 385.00 for a hot water carb heat system which included the covers. I flew with the carb heat system for a few years, then uninstalled everything except the filter covers. I bought them through a guy that was selling 912 powered trikes at Lakeland about 2001. Should be able to lay up a couple in glass if you have that particular expertise. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Darndest thing I ever saw!!
From: "ThisOne" <thisone58(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 17, 2008
First may I say "Mike...I'm happy you now have your lines. And Thank You for your help. I have been providing brake/fuel lines to home builders for years now, and now and then I like to "fill in the blanks" (as it were) so that when a builder calls me with a build I am not familiar with i can lend a hand. Now I know full well that there are those who prefer the poly tubing due mostly the weight (FYI: the -3 Teflon lines Mike has weigh .055 lbs per Ft.), and there are those who use the poly line as that whats what was provided in the build. And lastly there are builders who when they see what is given to them for brake lines say "I'm going to trust that to stop me"?. Now as holder of a SEL lic, I am well aware of weight and its affects. But when I see builds like say a CH701 that are to be built and then flown in to some rough areas.....well if it were my build I would not want poly lines (but this is just my personal thought). So if you are happy with the lines you have great....fly till you drop. Because that is why you built your baby in the first place right? But there are options. And I am always seeking those who are willing to help me.."fill in the blanks" Again "Thank you Mike" Best regards to all.... Brett Bonaco, Inc. brett at bonacoinc.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219901#219901 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Antifreeze vs Waterless Coolant
Date: Dec 17, 2008
Scott: Looks like they made a change to the Op Man: Antifreeze: Monitor coolant and cylinder head temps. Waterless Coolant: Monitor CHT. Antifreeze is red lined at 245F and Waterless at 275. John W and I chose to use Antifreeze. It is much cheaper than Waterless Coolant and cools better. I've been using antifreeze since 1994 in the 912's. No problem and no coolant temp gauge. If this requirement had been initiated back when I mounted the first 912, I probably would have stuck a coolant temp sender in the system somewhere. I think the book said measured at the pump outlet, but I may be wrong. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: parts needed for sync of dual carbs
Date: Dec 17, 2008
> I am also back to mechanical adjustment, but I am not sure how close I am getting. Given your accuracy with mechanical sync, could you post your technique ? > > Thanks, > > Mike Mike: It is in the maintenance book on the Kodiak web site. I do it like the book describes. It works for me. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Installation
Date: Dec 17, 2008
> I have spent days flying in heavy rain with never a hint of engine miss fire > or failure with the conical K&N filters. Mike: Need to add: The K&N filters were not covered when I was doing the flying in heavy rain. Most of that was in Yukon Territory and British Columbia during my 1994 flight to Alaska. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Darndest thing I ever saw!!
Date: Dec 17, 2008
> But when I see builds like say a CH701 that are to be built and then flown in to some rough areas.....well if it were my build I would not want poly lines (but this is just my personal thought). > > Brett Hi Brett: My Kolb MKIII was built specifically to fly in very rough, sparsely populated areas. It has 2,800+ hours on the airframe, flights to the northernmost point of the North American Continent in the US and Canada, Point Barrow, Alaska, and Tuktoyaktuk, North West Territory, plus another flight to Dead Horse/Prudhoe Bay, and numerous adventures all over the lower 48 landing in the desert, gravel beds, roads, and even dirt airstrips. Poly lines have been working well for me the last 2,800+ hours. How much would a set of lines for my MKIII cost? What is the OD and ID of your lines? How much do Mike Welch's MKIII lines weigh? john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2008
From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Brake lines
At 09:34 PM 12/17/2008, John Hauck wrote: > >I have always used ATF in Hegar and Matco brakes. However, recently I saw >a spec sheet that called for aviation red fluid for Matco. I have never >had a problem with the ATF, but that is what both systems called for when >I installed them some time ago. Both MIL-H-5606 aviation hydraulic fluid and Dexron III ATF are petroleum based fluids (the MSDS's list them as "highly refined oils" with additives). Both are compatible with Buna-N seals (the most common generic seal material), although there may be other reasons not to use one or the other. However, there are other types of ATF (ATF+4, Ford Type F, and others) that may have a different base, I don't know. OTOH, DOT3 and DOT4 automotive brake fluids are a mixture of various glycols, which don't like Buna but are compatible with EPDM rubber seals (but EPDM doesn't like petroleum oils), while DOT5 brake fluid is a silicone base fluid (I once owned a surplus postal Jeep that used DOT5). Older British cars used a mineral based brake fluid and you could screw them up by using DOT3. -Dana -- The greatest threat to western civilization are people whose fear of other people's liberty exceeds the love of their own. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Darndest thing I ever saw!!
From: "ThisOne" <thisone58(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 17, 2008
John, Well sir you have an outstanding aircraft there, and with the TT you have on her I would assume that she is well taken care of as well. I can only provide you a cost based on the lengths that Mike gave me for his build (so I am not certain that that they would apply to yours). -3 Teflon w/clear coat St to St 103" OVL $38.20 -3 Teflon w/clear coat St st St 90" OVL $33.30 The OD of this hose is .2995. The ID is 3/16". Now I gave Mike several adapters (816-3D and 822-3D) not knowing just how He would be routing the lines. If your build (or others) have -4 fittings, I can build -3 lines with -4 nuts (with this you would not have change anything on your build). As I had said the hose weights .055 lbs per ft. I hope that you found this some what helpful, if you have any questions at all please feel free to ask, or drop me a line. Regards, Brett brett at bonacoinc.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219909#219909 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Update
Date: Dec 17, 2008
Hey Guys: Got an hour flight time in today, first in nearly three months. Felt good. Airplane did good. OAT was 70F at 2,500 feet. Now have 301.2 hours on the new 912ULS. It is running good. While I was roaming around out West, we had two new additions to the Gantt International Airport family. The two resident mama burros had two little baby burros. It is worth the effort to go over to the farm just to watch these two clowns perform. Don't know how old they are, but not more than two months. These are genuine airport jackasses. They fit right in. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tony Oldman" <aoldman(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Engine Installation
Date: Dec 18, 2008
I to have used the K&N filters in rain. No problems while at cruse RPM. I have had trouble after sitting on the ground waiting on light rain or misty weather to clear with the engine not running up to full take off RPM. This has happened on two occasions. Both times I removed the filters , the engine ran to correct RPM. On these occasions I returned to my home airport without problem. When the filters dried out I put them back on , no problems . The way I see it when the engine is pulling plenty of air it will keep the filter pods clear. When left sitting the water build up will prevent sufficent air to pass though the filters reducing HP . Flying in rain is no fun and it chews up those wooden props fast. Tony Downunder MK111c 503 ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 4:28 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Engine Installation > > > > I have spent days flying in heavy rain with never a hint of engine miss > fire >> or failure with the conical K&N filters. > > > Mike: > > Need to add: The K&N filters were not covered when I was doing the flying > in heavy rain. Most of that was in Yukon Territory and British Columbia > during my 1994 flight to Alaska. > > john h > mkIII > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2008
From: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net>
Subject: John W.
> >http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 080530X00757&key=1 > Thanks for the jump. It helped to explain what happened. Jack B Hart FF004 Winchester, IN ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: parts needed for sync of dual carbs
From: "robcannon" <leecannon(at)telus.net>
Date: Dec 18, 2008
Here's a very simple, accurate, gage you can build in ten minutes for about 5 bucks. Buy about 6 ft of clear plastic tubing, sized to fit the nipple on your carb or manifold. Fill the tube about half way with some oil (I used pretty blue two stroke oil) Form a low loop with the ends attached to the carbs and tape the whole affair in place with the part with the oil in it parallel and touching each other (make sense). If you are working on a hks you can remove the prop to make things easier and much safer. The hks doesn't mind being run with no prop ( I keep the revs below around 3500) The carbs should be mechanically synchronized before you start the engine or the oil will quickly get sucked into the weaker carb. As you adjust the carbs the oil level will move toward the weaker carb. It is quite easy to get the carbs perfectly balanced ! By the way, I did it without the prop, then checked it with the prop and it made no difference, other than the engine ran much smoother with no prop. cheers, Rob Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219945#219945 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Video Camcorder Editing Help.
From: "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 18, 2008
Possums wrote: > > > I use Studio 10 - but the new version is Studio 12 - not free - about $50 > > Pinnacle Studio 11 is the best video editing program I have ever used. It does everything, simple to elaborate, and is super easy to use. I have tried others, Adobe does everything, but you need to spend a month figuring out how to use it, everything is a hard with that program. Sony Vegas is much to limited in what it can do. Windows Movie maker that comes with Windows XP is good, and free, for simple editing, and most importantly, easy and quick to use. Mike -------- "NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have !!! Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=219949#219949 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2008
From: william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net>
Subject: re: update
- Thanks for the pictures, John.- Brings back a lot of memories.- Wha t was the ground temp?- 31 degrees, going to 40 today.- Heavy snow tomo rrow, so I have welding to do.- The front frame of the Firestar is done, except for the small brackets.- I ordered the fuselage tube from Travis y esterday. - ------------------------- ------------------------- ----- Bill Sullivan ------------------------- ------------------------- ----- Windsor Locks, Ct. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: re: update
Date: Dec 18, 2008
Bill: I don't know what the ground temp was, but today they are forecasting 77F. So far it is rats - 3 and me - 0. That have tripped the rat traps three ti mes, liked the peanut butter off clean, without getting caught. Glue traps didn't work, except to catch broke crickets. Decon rat poison, put out four trays, was gone the first night. I was able to salvage enough undamaged parts to make up seat belt and shoul der harness for the pilots seat. That is why I got to fly yesterday. As far as I know, the only damage was the seat belt/shoulder harness, 12VDC power wire to my ANR headset, power socket for my electric vest, and the 2 " wide velcro strap I use to secure my GPS to my leg. Still have my finger s crossed they didn't cut wires I could not see. My strobes, nav lights, e lectric fuel pump, mag switch, all performed normally. The radio and inter com also were operational. First time the rats got me I lost radio and int ercom. They even tried to chew into the kevlar bridals on the parachute. john h mkIII Thanks for the pictures, John. Brings back a lot of memories. W hat was the ground temp? 31 degrees, going to 40 today. Heavy snow tomorr ow, so I have welding to do. The front frame of the Firestar is done, exce pt for the small brackets. I ordered the fuselage tube from Travis yesterd ay. Bill Sulliv an Windsor Loc ks, Ct. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Installation
Date: Dec 18, 2008
> My Rotax 912 operators manual has specs for coolant temp. > > -------- > Scott >>>>>>>>>>>>>> The last time I visited with LEAF about water temp, I was interested in putting in a thermostat to control min. water temps so my heater would work better in cool temps.... I was told that there was no minimum water temp... only a maximum temp. that is why there was no provision for a thermostat in the system. Boyd Young MKIIIC Utah ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: re: update
Date: Dec 18, 2008
First time the rats got me I lost radio and intercom. They even tried to chew into the kevlar bridals on the parachute.>> Good grief John, that is serious business. The worst I have had, so far, in spite of being hangared on a farm is a bug up the pitot. Mind you that nearly gave me heart failure as the ASI wound backwards in the middle of the climb out. Trouble is that the first thing that happens when the apparent speed drops off is to stuff the nose down without thinking . Not until I looked for an horizon did I realise what was happening. 77 degrees.? Very comfortable. Here it is just above freezing and we have had torrential rain with which the fields have been unable to cope so there have been floods all around the area. Joys of winter. Cheers, and a ratfree Christmas Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2008
From: "Richard Girard" <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: parts needed for sync of dual carbs
Yeah, Larry I did it. two inexpensive vacuum gauges @ $20 + two inline valves @ 10 + plus fittings and lines $10 to $15 depending on application. + shipping.Who said it was a one time thing? After I got my carbs set the CHT's and EGT's were dead even at all times 5 degree spread for the CHT's and 25 for the EGT's, but always in that range. When the carb boots started to leak the temp spreads grew. I went back to the vacuum gauges to get a reading and reset. Temp spread grew again. Time to look elsewhere. Found rotted carb sockets. Even if you don't use it as a diagnostic tool, what about every annual? Having balanced carbs is paramount for the best fuel economy and engine performance, why would you not include it as an item on your annual? Rick On Wed, Dec 17, 2008 at 10:55 AM, Larry Cottrell wrote: > I notice that Lockwood has a dual carb sync kit for around $79.00, Seems > like a lot of money for a one time use. Would it be worthwhile to build one > from available parts? Any body done it? > > Minus 6 this morning. BRRRRRR > Larry C > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com>
Subject: Re: parts needed for sync of dual carbs
Date: Dec 18, 2008
----- Original Message ----- From: Richard Girard To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, December 18, 2008 12:18 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: parts needed for sync of dual carbs Yeah, Larry I did it. two inexpensive vacuum gauges @ $20 + two inline valves @ 10 + plus fittings and lines $10 to $15 depending on application. + shipping. Who said it was a one time thing? After I got my carbs set the CHT's and EGT's were dead even at all times 5 degree spread for the CHT's and 25 for the EGT's, but always in that range. When the carb boots started to leak the temp spreads grew. I went back to the vacuum gauges to get a reading and reset. Temp spread grew again. Time to look elsewhere. Found rotted carb sockets. Even if you don't use it as a diagnostic tool, what about every annual? Having balanced carbs is paramount for the best fuel economy and engine performance, why would you not include it as an item on your annual? Rick Thanks guy's, I appreciate the help. I have a new baqttery on order and will give it a try as soon as I get it. It is much too cold to do much now. Larry C ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2008
From: possums <possums(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Rats Inc.
At 10:08 AM 12/18/2008, you wrote: > >So far it is rats - 3 and me - 0. That have tripped the rat traps >three times, liked the peanut butter off clean, without getting caught. Dear Investors, This is of the utmost urgency. The following is the "sleeper of all sleepers." Please send your check in the amount of $50,000 immediately. We are limiting each participant to one unit. You can understand after reading this once in a lifetime offer. A group of us are considering investing in a large cat ranch near Hermosillo, Mexico. It is our purpose to start rather small with about one million cats. Each cat averages about twelve kittens a year; skins can be sold for about 20 cents for the white ones and up to 40 cents for the black. This will give us twelve million cat skins per year to sell at an average price of around 32 cents, making our gross revenue about $3 million a year. This really averages out to about $10,000 a day (excluding Sundays and holidays, of course). A good Mexican cat man can skin about 50 cats each day, at a wage of $13.15 a day. It will take 663 men to operate the ranch, so the net profit would be over $8,200 per day. Your $50,000 investment would be recovered in 6.1 days, which beats the stock market don't ya know. Now, the cats would be fed on rats exclusively. Rats multiply four times faster than cats. We would start a rat ranch adjacent to our cat farm for the rats. If we start with a million rats, we will have four rats per cat per day. The rats will be fed on the carcasses of the cats that we skin. This will give each rat a quarter of a cat. You can see by this that the business is a clean operation; self-supporting and really automatic throughout. The cats will eat the rats and the rats will eat the cats and we will get the skins Time is of the essence. Any hesitation on your part would be sheer disaster. Become a millionaire with us through knowledgeable investments. Send your cashier's check today to: Possums Inc. Kennesaw, Georgia, USA, Earth ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2008
From: william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)ATT.NET>
Subject: re: update
- Russ- You have to get really close for the plastic capsule birdshot to work- 15 feet or so.- the advantage is that you can work around animals, people, and equipment with almost no worry.- Lots of sport, and you have to be quick with a second shot.- At 15 feet, they won't go through both s ides of a cardboard box.- I know it won't hurt the tires, but maybe the p lastic brake lines. - Finished all the welding today- including control brackets.- The aile ron control rods will be made up when I mount the wings.- The main engine mount tube was replaced, and I made up a new front cage.- Cost so far - including rivets for the wings (completed minus Stits)- is just under $200. - Labor overall is about 20 hours.- No problems, so far.- - ------------------------- ------------------------- - Bill Sullivan ------------------------- ------------------------- - Windsor Locks, Ct. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Rats Inc.
Date: Dec 18, 2008
Possums, What a wonderful business opportunity (unless, of course, you happen to be a cat or a rat). This plan has all the promise of your finest government program. Highly profitable, self- supportive, tremendous positives all around. Promises abound!!! I'll run down to my local Post Office tomorrow and submit my tax payment...er, investment. I can't wait to see the millions and millions of dollars roll in. I beg your indulgence to make a special allowance in my case, (you know..."just for you"), Please allow me to purchase four units immediately ($200,000). Mike Welch Can't wait till the money rolls in!!! PS. BTW, have you considered locating near Detroit? If I'm not mistaken, there are about to be a huge unemployed work force very soon. I'm sure they'll work cheap, then! Dear Investors, This is of the utmost urgency. The following is the "sleeper of all sleepers." Please send your check in the amount of $50,000 immediately. We are limiting each participant to one unit. You can understand after reading this once in a lifetime offer. A group of us are considering investing in a large cat ranch near Hermosillo, Mexico. It is our purpose to start rather small with about one million cats. Each cat averages about twelve kittens a year; skins can be sold for about 20 cents for the white ones and up to 40 cents for the black. This will give us twelve million cat skins per year to sell at an average price of around 32 cents, making our gross revenue about $3 million a year. This really averages out to about $10,000 a day (excluding Sundays and holidays, of course). A good Mexican cat man can skin about 50 cats each day, at a wage of $13.15 a day. It will take 663 men to operate the ranch, so the net profit would be over $8,200 per day. Your $50,000 investment would be recovered in 6.1 days, which beats the stock market don't ya know. Now, the cats would be fed on rats exclusively. Rats multiply four times faster than cats. We would start a rat ranch adjacent to our cat farm for the rats. If we start with a million rats, we will have four rats per cat per day. The rats will be fed on the carcasses of the cats that we skin. This will give each rat a quarter of a cat. You can see by this that the business is a clean operation; self-supporting and really automatic throughout. The cats will eat the rats and the rats will eat the cats and we will get the skins Time is of the essence. Any hesitation on your part would be sheer disaster. Become a millionaire with us through knowledgeable investments. Send your cashier's check today to: Possums Inc. Kennesaw, Georgia, USA, Earth _________________________________________________________________ Send e-mail anywhere. No map, no compass. http://windowslive.com/Explore/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_anywhere_122008 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2008
From: "Robert Laird" <rlaird(at)cavediver.com>
Subject: Re: Rats Inc.
> At 10:08 AM 12/18/2008, you wrote: > > So far it is rats - 3 and me - 0. That have tripped the rat traps three > times, liked the peanut butter off clean, without getting caught. I tried to tell you... drown 'em. No rat can swim for very long. -- R ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com>
Subject: rats inc
Date: Dec 18, 2008
Hi, A little advice from a "never failed yet" trapper. If the rats are licking the P Butter from the pan, there are two ways to handle it. Firstly it may not be rats, it may be mice that are not heavy enough to trip the trap. I would put lots of mouse traps around or a live trap that will take care of the little ones. The other thing you can do is to dig enough ground out to bury the trap. It would need to be by a wall where you could hang your bait high enough that the rat would have to stretch to reach the bait. You, I assume have a steel trap with a pan, if so tear off a small piece of cloth and lay over the trigger and pan, but not over the jaws. The idea is to keep the dirt from sifting under the pan and keep the trap from springing. Sift the dirt over the jaws just enough to conceal the trap, but the bare minimum necessary to hide it. What you are trying to do is to lure the rat into walking up to the wall and trying to reach the food that is dangling just out of reach, thus stepping into a trap that it does not know is there. Rats generally run along walls and natural corridors, so even if they don't smell the bait, (unlikely) they have a chance to step into the trap. If there are isolated points of entrance bury a trap there. If they run the walls, such as on a 2x4, place a trap there where they can't avoid it. Karen and I put the wings on the Firestar today, wind is howling, cold as a well diggers butt! Larry C ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: parts needed for sync of dual carbs
Date: Dec 19, 2008
From: zeprep251(at)aol.com
Carb sockets from rotax just don't hold up .The JBM rubber sockets, boots replaced the originals at 150 hrs and were still on it and in good working order when I sold it at 600+ hrs, plus they cost less!? 503DCDI. ??????????????????????????????????????????? G.Aman mk3-C Jabiru 2200 400hrs -----Original Message----- From: Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> Sent: Thu, 18 Dec 2008 11:18 am Subject: Re: Kolb-List: parts needed for sync of dual carbs Yeah, Larry I did it. two inexpensive vacuum gauges @ $20 + two inline valves @ 10 + plus fittings and lines $10 to $15 depending on application. + shipping. Who said it was a one time thing? After I got my carbs set the CHT's and EGT's were dead even at all times 5 degree spread for the CHT's and 25 for the EGT's, but always in that range. When the carb boots started to leak the temp spreads grew. I went back to the vacuum gauges to get a reading and reset. Temp spread grew again. Time to look elsewhere. Found rotted carb sockets. Even if you don't use it as a diagnostic tool, what about every annual? Having balanced carbs is paramount for the best fuel economy and engine performance, why would you not include it as an item on your annual? Rick On Wed, Dec 17, 2008 at 10:55 AM, Larry Cottrell wrote: I notice that Lockwood has a dual carb sync kit for around $79.00, Seems like a lot of money for a one time use. Would it be worthwhile to build one from available parts? Any body done it? ? Minus 6 this morning. BRRRRRR Larry C ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Update
From: "grantr" <grant_richardson25(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 19, 2008
John, I started having the same problem with them licking the peanut butter off. I found a way to fix that. Get a jar of roasted peanuts and take a half peanut and push it through the trigger mechanism between the catch for the rod and the bait holder. You need a nut that is a little big then push it through. This will shave off part of it so it fits snug. Then put peanut butter on it. The mouse will lick of the PB and then it will get greedy and try to get the nut and pow! I caught two tiny ones on mouse traps with this method. Are you using Victor traps which have the brass colored metal trigger catch? These are the best snap traps. The Black Cats from Lowes with the plastic trigger that looks like cheese are terrible. They will not snap if I touch the trigger. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220122#220122 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Video Camcorder Editing Help.
From: "grantr" <grant_richardson25(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 19, 2008
Thanks everyone, I downloaded Video Spin by Pinnacle for free and I really like it. Its very easy to use and does what I need it to do. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220123#220123 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: What is your Altitude loss in a 180 degree turn?
From: "grantr" <grant_richardson25(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 19, 2008
John, Did you get a chance to see what your altitude loss was with the engine off? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=220125#220125 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Rats Inc.
Date: Dec 19, 2008
I will be sending a check immediately drawn on my Madoff Investor's account. BB On 18, Dec 2008, at 8:16 PM, possums wrote: > At 10:08 AM 12/18/2008, you wrote: > >> >> So far it is rats - 3 and me - 0. That have tripped the rat traps >> three times, liked the peanut butter off clean, without getting >> caught. > > > Dear Investors, > This is of the utmost urgency. The following is the "sleeper of all > sleepers." Please send your check in the amount of $50,000 > immediately. We are limiting each participant to one unit. You can > understand after reading this once in a lifetime offer. > > A group of us are considering investing in a large cat ranch near > Hermosillo, Mexico. It is our purpose to start rather small with > about one million cats. Each cat averages about twelve kittens a > year; skins can be sold for about 20 cents for the white ones and > up to 40 cents for the black. This will give us twelve million cat > skins per year to sell at an average price of around 32 cents, > making our gross revenue about $3 million a year. This really > averages out to about $10,000 a day (excluding Sundays and > holidays, of course). > > A good Mexican cat man can skin about 50 cats each day, at a wage > of $13.15 a day. It will take 663 men to operate the ranch, so the > net profit would be over $8,200 per day. Your $50,000 investment > would be recovered in 6.1 days, which beats the stock market don't > ya know. > > Now, the cats would be fed on rats exclusively. Rats multiply four


December 08, 2008 - December 19, 2008

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