Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-hz
January 29, 2009 - February 25, 2009
I also had a conversation with Jerry at Green Sky about the temps and
position of the clips. He thinks with this engine they are already in
the last clip on the needle. He also brought up that with my oil temps
being low as well as the EGT's also being low, (1170) the last thing
that the engine would appear to need is more fuel cooling the EGT even
more.
So far it isn't a problem, it may never be a problem. In other words,
"it ain't broke", perhaps I should leave it alone and see how it shakes
out.
Larry C, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HKS readings for the day |
| From: | "robcannon" <leecannon(at)telus.net> |
Guest - interesting that you say that prop pitch has no effect on cht and egt.
When I set up my prop on my hks I found that my prop pitch had a direct influence
on cht and egt. Too little pitch equaled high egt's and low cht's and vice
versa. It was a very fine line to get it right.
Rob Cannon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227596#227596
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Greasing bolts and fittings |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Mike, the choice is not grease or nothing. We are blessed with a host of
light oils and dry lubricants that can do the job. They are thin enough that
they wash out the joint upon reapplication.
Rick
On Thu, Jan 29, 2009 at 1:18 PM, JetPilot wrote:
>
>
> aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > Grease is great stuff. It lubricates and protects from oxidation,
> provided you protect the grease from contamination by dirt and grit. If that
> protection isn't provided the dirt and grit combines with the grease to make
> a rudimentary grinding compound.
> >
> >
>
>
> Rick,
>
> You are correct, dirt and grit are not a good thing in grease, but hard
> metal to metal contact is even worse. My controls feel like they are
> mounted on bearings, and I have had no wear on the bolts, cable thimbles, or
> any other greased part in 200 hours. In many places, its either allow hard
> metal to metal contact, or grease it. The grease wins, in both operation
> and reduced wear, and preventing corrosion. Its not perfect, and I'm sure
> it attracts a bit of dirt, but its far better than hard metal to metal wear.
>
> Mike
>
> --------
> "NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have
> !!!
>
> Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227542#227542
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Engine at Sebring |
| From: | "R. Hankins" <rphanks(at)grantspass.com> |
"By their own figures It's heavier than a 912, will cost the same, and burn the
same amount of fuel that is priced 20% higher. Doesn't make a lot of sense to
me. "
They may be looking at a larger market than just the USA. There are many places
in the world where Jet-A is easier to find than 110LL. With the EPA tightening
its grip every year, it is only a matter of time before it goes away here.
As for the 20% more expensive, I suppose that is true compared to Mogas, but
doesn't hold vs 110LL (at least according to air-nav:)
http://www.airnav.com/fuel/report.html
This engine stacks up pretty well (on paper) against the Cont. O-200 etc. It also
has a better power to weight ratio than the 80hp 912UL. With directly opposed
pistons and symmetrical crankshafts, this should be a low vibration engine
as well. Nearly all of us run gear reduction already, so I don't see having
to gear both cranks to the output shaft as an over complication. Piston porting
eliminates the whole valve train, so in some ways it is simpler. The super
charger does add some complexity.
If they can field this engine anywhere close to their weight and power specs,
it will be a fine engineering achievement regardless of what the market does with
it. Think of it, a diesel that weighs less than most air cooled gas aviation
engines. Pretty cool.
If I had the money to spend, I wouldn't shell out for this one just yet, but I
do wish them the best of luck and am looking forward to the flight reports.
Hoping for a sunny weekend - or just a weekend above minimums....
--------
Roger in Oregon
1992 KXP 503 - N1782C
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227635#227635
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Greasing bolts and fittings |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com wrote:
> Mike, the choice is not grease or nothing. We are blessed with a host of light
oils and dry lubricants that can do the job. They are thin enough that they
wash out the joint upon reapplication.
>
> Rick
>
>
There was talk about a dry type bicycle grease for hinges in a thread not to long
ago, I intend to buy some and try it on my hinges. It may be an even better
option than grease in some places. I am going to try it on my hinges first
and go from there if I like it.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227742#227742
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Video In High Definition: Flying My Kolb MK III Xtra |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Here is a High Definition video of my wife and I flying my Kolb MK III Xtra around
South Florida. As always with You Tube, the stock quality is HORRIBLE, but
if you click on " Watch in HD " which is in blue at the bottom right of the
video, and then click on " Watch in Full Screen " the quality will be pretty incredible.
Enjoy...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNNdSS7jcgY
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227744#227744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Video In High Definition: Flying My Kolb MK III Xtra |
At 04:39 PM 1/30/2009, JetPilot wrote:
>
>Here is a High Definition video of my wife and I flying my Kolb MK III
>Xtra around South Florida. As always with You Tube, the stock quality is
>HORRIBLE, but if you click on " Watch in HD " which is in blue at the
>bottom right of the video, and then click on " Watch in Full Screen " the
>quality will be pretty incredible. Enjoy...
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNNdSS7jcgY
Nice video, but some of those tags are over the top, nothing to do with the
video. BTW, you don't need to embed the tags in the description since if
they're in there as tags, you can use the description to describe the video.
Also if you add "&fmt=22" to the end of the address it will automatically
go to HD:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNNdSS7jcgY&fmt=22
-Dana
--
Why did the chicken cross the Mobius strip? To get to the other, er, um....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HKS readings for the day |
| From: | "robcannon" <leecannon(at)telus.net> |
Rick - Veeerrry interesting......4 blade F model 68 inch powerfin... I fly a Kolb
twinstar mark II and have a 66 inch F model. What are you flying Rick?
Rob Cannon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227810#227810
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HKS readings for the day |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
It's on a trike, a Northwing Apache Sport.
Rick
On Fri, Jan 30, 2009 at 9:31 PM, robcannon wrote:
>
> Rick - Veeerrry interesting......4 blade F model 68 inch powerfin... I fly
> a Kolb twinstar mark II and have a 66 inch F model. What are you flying
> Rick?
> Rob Cannon
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227810#227810
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Video In High Definition: Flying My Kolb MK III Xtra |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Thanks Dana,
I will start adding that to the URL !!
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227831#227831
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gerard uebbing <guebbing(at)yahoo.com> |
Guys,
I'm building a firestar2 with a 503 DCDI 2.58 B gearbox and considering the
Powerfin prop.
Any opinions on 2 blade vs. 3? Also those out there using this prop, what b
lade type/ length are you using B,C, or F combo. Just looking for info to m
ake the right decision for me. Thanks,
-Gerry
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop selection |
| From: | zeprep251(at)aol.com |
Gerry,
? You might want to consider the mass weight inertia of all 3 blades types before
you buy. The B -Box has some limits.Most on this list favor the Powerfin or
Warp over the Ivo, but the Ivo is the lightest I believe.
-----Original Message-----
From: gerard uebbing <guebbing(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 9:33 am
Subject: Kolb-List: prop selection
Guys,
I'm building a firestar2 with a 503 DCDI 2.58 B gearbox and considering the Powerfin
prop.
Any opinions on 2 blade vs. 3? Also those out there using this prop, what blade
type/ length are you using B,C, or F combo. Just looking for info to make the
right decision for me. Thanks,
?Gerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop selection |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Gerry, I have a Powerfin on my HKS powered trike. The blades are light so
the inertia is low, a good match for the limits of the B gearbox. They are
easy to adjust accurately, and the factory gives very good support. If they
have a weakness, it's that they are not terribly robust if something hard
goes through them. I wiped out a blade when I forgot to take my glasses off
my collar and the slipstream sent them flying.
Rick
On Sat, Jan 31, 2009 at 11:33 AM, gerard uebbing wrote:
> Guys,
> I'm building a firestar2 with a 503 DCDI 2.58 B gearbox and considering the
> Powerfin prop.
> Any opinions on 2 blade vs. 3? Also those out there using this prop, what
> blade type/ length are you using B,C, or F combo. Just looking for info to
> make the right decision for me. Thanks,
> Gerry
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop selection |
| From: | "George Alexander" <gtalexander(at)att.net> |
guebbing(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> Guys,
> Any opinions on 2 blade vs. 3? Also those out there using this prop, what blade
type/ length are you using B,C, or F combo.
>
Gerry:
The setup on my FS II is a 3 blade Power Fin, Model F; C gearbox (3.47 ratio) being
driven by the R503 DCDI/Dual Carb.
--------
George Alexander
FS II R503 N709FS
http://gtalexander.home.att.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227887#227887
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop selection |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
I fly a powerfin on a Trike also, its a great prop. We replaced the wooden prop
that came on the trike with the powerfin. The Powerfin gives more thrust, is
smoother, and is quieter. Better than the expensive french made wooden prop
in every way.
I have a Warp drive on my 912-S, its very strong, exactly what I want for when
something goes through the proppeller as does happen with pushers from time to
time. I also love the nickel leading edges for flying through rain. No leading
edge tapes to mess with and I can fly into a thunderstorm with confidence
[Wink]
I think both props are great !
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227891#227891
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop selection |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
[quote="guebbing(at)yahoo.com"]Guys,
I'm building a firestar2 with a 503 DCDI 2.58 B gearbox and considering the Powerfin
prop.
Any opinions on 2 blade vs. 3? Also those out there using this prop, what blade
type/ length are you using B,C, or F combo. Just looking for info to make the
right decision for me. Thanks,
Gerry
> [b]
Friend of mine back in TX ran a tennessee 66x34 woodie on his FSII 503 B box and
it worked really well.
My FSII had the 3.47:1 C box on it with a 3 blade warp drive taper tip in 68" diameter.
I could outclimb my friend's FSII but only by a very little bit.
Judging by those two planes, tho, my suggestion would be for a 2.58 ratio stick
with a 2 blade of about 66" (i.e. the F model powerfin would be pretty good.
The tennessee woodie is great too but may vibrate a little more). If you go 3
blade, I'd suggest gearing down to 3.47 with the C box and running a 68" warp
drive. I tried a powerfin F model 68" 3 blade, but the warp drive worked a little
better overall.
I'm also an RK-400 clutch fan, so going to C box would allow you to use that as
well....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227902#227902
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop selection |
No leading edge tapes to mess with and I can fly into a thunderstorm with
confidence [Wink]
>
> Mike
Confidence in what? ;-)
john h
mkIII - Raking leaves and splitting firewood instead of flying this
beautiful Sunday at hauck's holler. Got an hour day before yesterday
though. 912ULS is honking. Climbing at 5400 and turning 5500 at WOT
straight and level. Will only fly 90 mph with the 8" Maule Tundra
Tailwheel. Will do 95 with a 6" solid Maule. Sure works better on the
ground though.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: prop selection |
That didn't put you down, did it?
Did it require a blade replacement, or repair?
john h
mkIII
I wiped out a blade when I forgot to take my glasses off my collar and th
e slipstream sent them flying.
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop selection |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com wrote:
> Gerry, I have a Powerfin on my HKS powered trike. The blades are light so the
inertia is low, a good match for the limits of the B gearbox. They are easy to
adjust accurately, and the factory gives very good support. If they have a weakness,
it's that they are not terribly robust if something hard goes through
them. I wiped out a blade when I forgot to take my glasses off my collar and
the slipstream sent them flying.
>
> Rick
>
>
For what it's worth, Powefin's newer props are more heavily made. I still have
my F model that I'd bought to try on my FSII and its blades are a fair bit more
robust than the F I had on my trike. It was evident even with a heft test, the
newer blades are noticeably heavier, tho not by a lot.
The powerfin is the most efficient pusher you can buy. I could get 1800fpm sustained
climb on my trike with its F model 2 blade. The only other prop that could
come close was my tennessee woodie which gave about 1400 to 1500.
My F model 3 blade on the FSII did climb better than the warp drive set for the
same rpms, but it didn't do well in cruise which is why I went back to the warp
drive. The warp still gave the best overall performance....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227908#227908
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: prop selection |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
I was able to do a field repair to keep flying that day, but afterward I
decided to get a new blade. It just didn't make good sense to me to risk the
aircraft for the cost of a single prop blade.
Rick
On Sat, Jan 31, 2009 at 3:07 PM, John Hauck wrote:
> That didn't put you down, did it?
>
> Did it require a blade replacement, or repair?
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
> I wiped out a blade when I forgot to take my glasses off my collar and the
> slipstream sent them flying.
>
> Rick
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: prop selection |
At 09:00 PM 1/31/2009, Richard Girard wrote:
>I was able to do a field repair to keep flying that day, but afterward I
>decided to get a new blade. It just didn't make good sense to me to risk
>the aircraft for the cost of a single prop blade.
Good move, as I've related before, some years ago I witnessed the bad crash
of a MKIII due to the failure of a repaired Powerfin prop.
-Dana
--
Drink wet cement, and get completely stoned!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WillUribe(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts |
Hi Jimmy,
Thanks for the heads up, found my A3-10 bolts a little worn so I replaced
them before I flew yesterday.
Regards,
Will Uribe
FireStar II
El Paso, TX
_http://gtalexander.home.att.net/kolb.html_
(http://gtalexander.home.att.net/kolb.html)
**************Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499.
ntent/products/features.aspx/laptops_great_deals?c=us%26cs=19%26l=en%26s=d
hs%26~ck=anavml)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts |
| From: | zeprep251(at)AOL.COM |
If these bolts are left loose,vibration makes them spin.Using a spacer on the
bolt,if you don't fold it frequently,allows you to put the bolt in very light
tension.If you fold it ,you have to be sure the clearances do not change before
you add any tension or you introduce bending? forces.By shaking it up and down
during your preflight check,you can even tell when it wears through the cad
plating .
-----Original Message-----
From: WillUribe(at)aol.com
Sent: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 7:13 am
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts
Hi Jimmy,
Thanks for the heads up, found my A3-10 bolts a little worn so I replaced
them before I flew yesterday.
?
Regards,
Will Uribe
FireStar II
El Paso, TX
http://gtalexander.home.att.net/kolb.html
?
Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts |
zeprep251=2C (do you not sign your name?)
You can NOT add a spacer to the forward horizontal stabilizer attach bolt
s (to put the bolt in very light tension). The entire stabilizer slides fo
rward and backwards every time the elevator is moved up or down. You will
break something immediately=2C if you remove the ability of the stabilizer
to slide for and aft.
Mike Welch
MkIII
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts
Date: Sun=2C 1 Feb 2009 11:13:31 -0500
From: zeprep251(at)aol.com
If these bolts are left loose=2Cvibration makes them spin.Using a spacer on
the bolt=2Cif you don't fold it frequently=2Callows you to put the bolt in
very light tension.If you fold it =2Cyou have to be sure the clearances do
not change before you add any tension or you introduce bending forces.By
shaking it up and down during your preflight check=2Cyou can even tell when
it wears through the cad plating .
-----Original Message-----
From: WillUribe(at)aol.com
Sent: Sun=2C 1 Feb 2009 7:13 am
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts
Hi Jimmy=2C
Thanks for the heads up=2C found my A3-10 bolts a little worn so I replaced
them before I flew yesterday.
Regards=2C
Will Uribe
FireStar II
El Paso=2C TX
http://gtalexander.home.att.net/kolb.html
_________________________________________________________________
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MrEyDg5HOfWrkX3tw4J6kdaikBXBA475oVyo68Vte5kWnJfadx65OO9LLKNvymo2k+QbeveqbSMA
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23mDEAttP41zIk54NTRylZNw6g54HQ1M0mrAlY+oiwI4NIWppOOBSZ/GuY2HUgxSZozSEKT+FITz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B+tFFMBTjik6/SiikAyTcThSBT1ztyTyKKKGAm7JxQx4oooBke7FNZv/ANdFFMCCRlBzjn6VXeQE
kg0UU0DK0klV3k5yKKKpMTRWeXDEdc+tN83LbN3PvRRVskoXMp84AntzVd5gCVJx70UVpHZEvcp3
c5C7gc47Z61lXdzvQ44JoorR6Ce9jGkl2zt8xAI6HvWZqVztRmB6npnrRRSWxXUw1kLNuPFOZxRR
XI273NpL3QLDPI6c0hkooouTYTzR2P5UhfHQ0UUAJ5gHfijePX9aKKaAQzZGBkUglyetFFO2or2E
80cYpDLxRRQ0K7sJ5o9aBMM+1FFOwJu4edR5/NFFIbR//9k
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)hughes.net> |
I am wondering what everyone has been using for there oil line runs between the
engine, coolers, and maybe a external oil filter adapter. The last plane I built,
a Cozy, I used braided hoses with special fittings which cost an arm and
a leg. Looking at the many pictures I have of this stile of aircraft mostly
all I see is barbed fittings with rubber hose and hose clamps. Can this method
really handle the oil pressures? Maybe I did an over kill on the last plane.
Rick Lewis
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228064#228064
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts |
| From: | zeprep251(at)aol.com |
Sorry Mike,
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- I used fuel line to space it on the FS. On the MK-3
it's all stainless tabs and it wears the bolt plating before the stainless,
but I can put a little tension on the tangs with the nyloc nut.I still lube
it and everything else that moves.The tail wheel is the most problem with di
rt.
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- Gary Aman MK-3 Jab 2200 405hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 9:43 am
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts
zeprep251, (do you not sign your name?)
You can NOT add a spacer to the forward horizontal stabilizer attach bolts
(to
put the bolt in very light tension). The entire stabilizer slides forward a
nd
backwards every time the elevator is moved up or down. You will break somet
hing
immediately, if you remove the ability of the stabilizer to slide for and af
t.
Mike Welch
MkIII
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 11:13:31 -0500
From: zeprep251(at)aol.com
If these bolts are left loose,vibration makes them spin.Using a spacer on th
e
bolt,if you don't fold it frequently,allows you to put the bolt in very ligh
t
tension.If you fold it ,you have to be sure the clearances do not change bef
ore
you add any tension or you introduce bending forces.By
shaking it up and down
during your preflight check,you can even tell when it wears through the cad
plating .
-----Original Message-----
From: WillUribe(at)aol.com
Sent: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 7:13 am
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts
Hi Jimmy,
Thanks for the heads up, found my A3-10 bolts a little worn so I replaced th
em
before I flew yesterday.
Regards,
Will Uribe
FireStar II
El Paso, TX
http://gtalexander.home.att.net/kolb.html
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live=84=A2: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
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2009
[Image Removed]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts |
Gary,
As I understood your description of "spacers", I got the impression you might
not have been
aware of the stabilizer's fore/aft movement. If you are aware, great. I thought
you meant metal sleeves as spacers. This would cause bad juju. (Swahili for
"Oh crap!")
Does using fuel line allow for easy lubrication of this attachment point? I
guess as long as you completely dissasemble the pieces periodically, and clean
any dirt, etc, and then reassemble
all the clean lubed pieces, this would keep the bolts in good condition for a long
time.
It has been awhile since I have observed the attach point movement. If I recall
correctly, it's about a half an inch. (No, I don't think this qualifies as
weight shift.) Will the fuel line compress easily and sufficiently to work okay?
Mike Welch
MkIII
Turbo GEO engine being assembled
BTW. It should be appreciated by all that Jimmie brought this to everyone's attention.
With a couple of others guys showing similar wear, maybe we should make
a point of replacing all wearable bolts every 2nd annual, or whatever works
out long before a bolt becomes too weak to be safe.
________________________________
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts
> Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 19:15:50 -0500
> From: zeprep251(at)aol.com
>
>
> Sorry Mike,
>
> I used fuel line to space it on the FS. On the MK-3 it's all stainless tabs and
it wears the bolt plating before the stainless,but I can put a little tension
on the tangs with the nyloc nut.I still lube it and everything else that moves.The
tail wheel is the most problem with dirt.
>
> Gary Aman MK-3 Jab 2200 405hrs
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: Mike Welch
>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Sent: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 9:43 am
>
> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts
>
>
> zeprep251, (do you not sign your name?)
>
>
> You can NOT add a spacer to the forward horizontal stabilizer attach bolts (to
>
> put the bolt in very light tension). The entire stabilizer slides forward and
>
> backwards every time the elevator is moved up or down. You will break something
>
> immediately, if you remove the ability of the stabilizer to slide for and aft.
>
>
> Mike Welch
>
> MkIII
>
>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re:
> Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts
>
> Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 11:13:31 -0500
>
> From: zeprep251(at)aol.com
>
>
> If these bolts are left loose,vibration makes them spin.Using a spacer on the
>
> bolt,if you don't fold it frequently,allows you to put the bolt in very light
>
> tension.If you fold it ,you have to be sure the clearances do not change before
>
> you add any tension or you introduce bending forces.By shaking it up and down
>
> during your preflight check,you can even tell when it wears through the cad
>
> plating .
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: WillUribe(at)aol.com
>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Sent: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 7:13 am
>
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts
>
>
> Hi Jimmy,
>
> Thanks for the heads up, found my A3-10 bolts a little worn so I replaced them
>
> before I flew yesterday.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Will Uribe
>
> FireStar II
>
> El Paso, TX
>
> http://gtalexander.home.att.net/kolb.html
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
>
> Windows Live: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
>
> http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_012009
>
>
> =0
> A
>
>
> ________________________________
> Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499.
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts |
> It has been awhile since I have observed the attach point movement. If
I recall correctly, it's about a half an inch. (No, I don't think this
qualifies as weight shift.)
>
> Mike Welch
Mike W:
If the elevator hinge pin and elvator control mechanism are rigged
correctly, there will be no movement in the inboard end of the horizontal
stabilizer. My right horizontal stabilizer doesn't move fore and aft.
However, the left one does about an 1/8 inch at full travel. I couldn't get
two of them the same.
One half inch of fore and aft travel in the inboard end of the horizontal
stabilizer is a tad excessive. As Bob B remarked, "May be bordering on
weight shift."
I think Jimmy Y has a unique problem based on an engine hard mounted to the
airframe.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts |
John H.
As I said, it has been a long time. It may as be as long as 1 year since I even
had the
tail assembly attached, let alone look at the motion of the horiz. stab. movement.
The fact is, it's been so long ago, I can't remember when I noticed the movement
at that location.
It is entirely possible it is MUCH less than 1/2". Maybe it was more than 1/8",
can't
remember exactly......
I just went out and measured the elevator mechanism that mounts the rear of the
horiz. stab.
Fore and aft motion is VERY close to 1/8" to 3/16" max. Seemed like it was more.
My memory,
along with an ever increasing list of other things, is getting worse all the time.
Primarily, my response to Gary was to point out that the forward stabilizer attach
point did not just allow for folding, which could permit for tight bushings.
If a person weren't aware of the fore/aft movement, and put in spacers,
well, that would not be a good gameplan.
Mike Welch
MkIII
----------------------------------------
> From: jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts
> Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 22:06:11 -0600
>
>
>> It has been awhile since I have observed the attach point movement. If
> I recall correctly, it's about a half an inch. (No, I don't think this
> qualifies as weight shift.)
>>
>> Mike Welch
>
>
> Mike W:
>
> If the elevator hinge pin and elvator control mechanism are rigged
> correctly, there will be no movement in the inboard end of the horizontal
> stabilizer. My right horizontal stabilizer doesn't move fore and aft.
> However, the left one does about an 1/8 inch at full travel. I couldn't get
> two of them the same.
>
> One half inch of fore and aft travel in the inboard end of the horizontal
> stabilizer is a tad excessive. As Bob B remarked, "May be bordering on
> weight shift."
>
> I think Jimmy Y has a unique problem based on an engine hard mounted to the
> airframe.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_explore_012009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
Rick
I used MIL-H6000 hose on my VW and it works fine. It is rated to 250 F and
1000 PSI. It isn't cheap ether but much better priced than that braded stuff
with the special fittings. Aircraft Spruce part number 6000-8 was $3.50 a
ft.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)hughes.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2009 5:22 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Oil Lines
>
> I am wondering what everyone has been using for there oil line runs
> between the engine, coolers, and maybe a external oil filter adapter. The
> last plane I built, a Cozy, I used braided hoses with special fittings
> which cost an arm and a leg. Looking at the many pictures I have of this
> stile of aircraft mostly all I see is barbed fittings with rubber hose and
> hose clamps. Can this method really handle the oil pressures? Maybe I
> did an over kill on the last plane.
>
> Rick Lewis
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228064#228064
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Broken tail FireStar 2 |
At 60 hrs and no rough handling the short cromemolly tube that is
welded to the ring that is attached to the tail boom broke. there are
2 stubs , one on top of the ring and one on the bottom.
The one on the bottom broke. Also the very bottom aluminum tube broke.
My vertical stabalizer is very nearly ready to leave the A/C. I fold
my plane every time I fly , so I was lucky enough to
have my face a foot from the break when I went to attach my tail
wires. The tail had moved enough to tear the fabric , but it would
have been hard to catch on a normal preflight if had been left unfolded.
After talking to Travis and Dennis at Kolb we found out that the
factory had left out 3 gussets when they welded up the tailpost They have sent me the gussets
and enough tubeing to make a repair.
Also I talked to Brian Milborne and he said that someone had just
called him about a wrinkle in the fabric in the area we are talking
about . That plane will be coming to Brian for a condition inspection
soon, So maby Brian will have more to say after he looks at it.
Frank Goodnight
HKS FireStar 2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "grantr" <grant_richardson25(at)yahoo.com> |
Some low level flying
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nqdo3rCKBRg&fmt=18
More low level plus rough air
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DluFHb11JCs&fmt=18
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228135#228135
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying videos |
| From: | "Luke" <aurich85(at)yahoo.com> |
While watching your videos I ran across another video I had never seen before that
had a couple Kolbs in it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwgoPsfqrwo
--------
"The LORD is a warrior; the LORD is his name." Exodus 15:3
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228139#228139
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts |
| From: | zeprep251(at)aol.com |
Mike,
=C2- Good point.I Never considered that movement,only the folding action.U
sed the soft yellow 1/4" line,but had to extend the support upward about 1"w
ith 1/8"4130 plates and steel spacers to help the trim.Only used the spacers
for a couple hours before modifying the mount.I may have run into trouble i
f I had kept them in.The MK-3 has stainless brackets and it's easy to tensio
n lightly.I only have wear on the passenger side bolt.I have changed it twic
e in 200hrs.I thought the higher rpm ,3100,may be rattling things around bac
k there.I can remove almost all the free play with a new bolt.The plating mu
st be softer than the stainless.
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2
- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2-
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2-=C2- Thanks, G. Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 5:31 pm
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts
Gary,
As I understood your description of "spacers", I got the impression you mi
ght
not have been
aware of the stabilizer's fore/aft movement. If you are aware, great. I
thought you meant metal sleeves as spacers. This would cause bad juju. (Swa
hili
for "Oh crap!")
Does using fuel line allow for easy lubrication of this attachment point?
I
guess as long as you20completely dissasemble the pieces periodically, and cl
ean
any dirt, etc, and then reassemble
all the clean lubed pieces, this would keep the bolts in good condition for
a
long time.
It has been awhile since I have observed the attach point movement. If I
recall correctly, it's about a half an inch. (No, I don't think this qualifi
es
as weight shift.) Will the fuel line compress easily and sufficiently to wo
rk
okay?
Mike Welch
MkIII
Turbo GEO engine being assembled
BTW. It should be appreciated by all that Jimmie brought this to everyone's
attention. With a couple of others guys showing similar wear, maybe we shou
ld
make a point of replacing all wearable bolts every 2nd annual, or whatever w
orks
out long before a bolt becomes too weak to be safe.
________________________________
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts
> Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 19:15:50 -0500
> From: zeprep251(at)aol.com
>
>
> Sorry Mike,
>
> I used fuel line to space it on the FS. On the MK-3 it's all stainless tab
s
and it wears the bolt plating before the stainless,but I can put a little
tension on the tangs with the nyloc nut.I still lube it and everything else
that
moves.The tail wheel is the most problem with dirt.
>
> Gary Aman MK-3 Jab 2200 405hrs
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: Mike Welch
>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Sent: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 9:43 am
>
> Subject: RE: Kolb-Lis
t: Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts
>
>
> zeprep251, (do you not sign your name?)
>
>
> You can NOT add a spacer to the forward horizontal stabilizer attach bolts
(to
>
> put the bolt in very light tension). The entire stabilizer slides forward
and
>
> backwards every time the elevator is moved up or down. You will break
something
>
> immediately, if you remove the ability of the stabilizer to slide for and
aft.
>
>
> Mike Welch
>
> MkIII
>
>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re:
> Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts
>
> Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 11:13:31 -0500
>
> From: zeprep251(at)aol.com
>
>
> If these bolts are left loose,vibration makes them spin.Using a spacer on
the
>
> bolt,if you don't fold it frequently,allows you to put the bolt in very li
ght
>
> tension.If you fold it ,you have to be sure the clearances do not change
before
>
> you add any tension or you introduce bending forces.By shaking it up and d
own
>
> during your preflight check,you can even tell when it wears through the ca
d
>
> plating .
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From: WillUribe(at)aol.com
>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Sent: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 7:13 am
>
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts
>
>
> Hi Jimmy,
>
> Thanks for the heads up, found my A3-10 bolts a little worn so I replaced
them
>
> before I flew yes
terday.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Will Uribe
>
> FireStar II
>
> El Paso, TX
>
> http://gtalexander.home.att.net/kolb.html
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
>
> Windows Live=84=A2: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
>
> http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_
012009
>
>
> =0
> A
>
>
> ________________________________
> Great Deals on Dell Laptops. Starting at $499.
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live=84=A2: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_explore_012009
=====================3D===
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying videos |
>
>Some low level flying
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nqdo3rCKBRg&fmt=18
>
> More low level plus rough air
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DluFHb11JCs&fmt=18
>
>
Grant,
Looks like you are holding a lot of left rudder. Is this due to flying
without a passenger?
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying videos |
| From: | "grantr" <grant_richardson25(at)yahoo.com> |
Jack,
That is a camera illusion. I am not holding any rudder while flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228149#228149
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Broken tail FireStar 2 |
| From: | zeprep251(at)aol.com |
Frank,
?I also broke those parts,but I was using the brakes.to swing the plane around
when parking and put a lot of twisting load on things.The first thing to fail
was the aluminum tube that goes from the bottom of the tail post up to the tail
boom,right where it leaves the steel.Replaced it with a thicker tube,then broke
the bottom stub tube at the ring you mentioned shortly after,but I was really
watching things closely every time I folded by then.Drilled the tail assy
off and had it welded, with some gussets,ordered a full swivel tail wheel assy.
from Travis and modified it to use the stock tail wheel.Other than the pain
from hack sawing the new tail wheel? assy. in two,it has stayed intact.I thought
I was the cause of the failure by the way I drug the wheel sideways when turning.You
were not doing that?
????????????????????????? G.Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: frank.goodnight <frank.goodnight(at)att.net>
Sent: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 5:15 am
Subject: Kolb-List: Broken tail FireStar 2
?
At 60 hrs and no rough handling the short cromemolly tube that is welded to the
ring that is attached to the tail boom broke. there are 2 stubs , one on top
of the ring and one on the bottom.?
The one on the bottom broke. Also the very bottom aluminum tube broke. My vertical
stabalizer is very nearly ready to leave the A/C. I fold my plane every time
I fly , so I was lucky enough to?
have my face a foot from the break when I went to attach my tail wires. The tail
had moved enough to tear the fabric , but it would have been hard to catch on
a normal preflight if had been left unfolded.?
?
? After talking to Travis and Dennis at Kolb we found out that the factory had
left out 3 gussets when they welded up the tailpost They have sent me the gussets?
and enough tubeing to make a repair.?
?
? Also I talked to Brian Milborne and he said that someone had just called him
about a wrinkle in the fabric in the area we are talking about . That plane will
be coming to Brian for a condition inspection?
soon, So maby Brian will have more to say after he looks at it.?
?
Frank Goodnight?
HKS FireStar 2?
?
?
?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken tail FireStar 2 |
A friend of mine's FSII broke in the same place. It seems that this is a
weak link in a lot of Kolbs (normally high time) even with gussets. I bolted
aluminum straps (1 X 1/8) from the sides of the fuselage tube to the lower
vertical stabilizer to keep mine from breaking. John H 1st reported this as
a weak point and suggested a similar fix on his MKIII.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net>
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 8:15 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Broken tail FireStar 2
>
>
> At 60 hrs and no rough handling the short cromemolly tube that is welded
> to the ring that is attached to the tail boom broke. there are 2 stubs ,
> one on top of the ring and one on the bottom.
> The one on the bottom broke. Also the very bottom aluminum tube broke. My
> vertical stabalizer is very nearly ready to leave the A/C. I fold my
> plane every time I fly , so I was lucky enough to
> have my face a foot from the break when I went to attach my tail wires.
> The tail had moved enough to tear the fabric , but it would have been
> hard to catch on a normal preflight if had been left unfolded.
>
> After talking to Travis and Dennis at Kolb we found out that the
> factory had left out 3 gussets when they welded up the tailpost the top stub and 2 on the bottom> They have sent me the gussets
> and enough tubeing to make a repair.
>
> Also I talked to Brian Milborne and he said that someone had just
> called him about a wrinkle in the fabric in the area we are talking about
> . That plane will be coming to Brian for a condition inspection
> soon, So maby Brian will have more to say after he looks at it.
>
> Frank Goodnight
> HKS FireStar 2
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken tail FireStar 2 |
Yes I have locked one brake , added about 1/2 power to turn around in
a tight place . When I talked to Travis I explained , He said it was
not a very good thing to do , however most Kolb drivers
do it at one time or another. I won"t do it again. I also ordered a
full swivel tail wheel. Why did you replace the wheel that came with
full swivel unit with the original one?
Thanks for your input.
Frank Goodnight
HKS FireStar 2
I guess the point of my post was so other FireStar owners will be
aware that the tail assy. CAN break. Incidentally the people at Kolb
told me that they had never heard of those parts breaking.
On Feb 2, 2009, at 9:00 AM, zeprep251(at)aol.com wrote:
> Frank,
> I also broke those parts,but I was using the brakes.to swing the
> plane around when parking and put a lot of twisting load on
> things.The first thing to fail was the aluminum tube that goes from
> the bottom of the tail post up to the tail boom,right where it
> leaves the steel.Replaced it with a thicker tube,then broke the
> bottom stub tube at the ring you mentioned shortly after,but I was
> really watching things closely every time I folded by then.Drilled
> the tail assy off and had it welded, with some gussets,ordered a
> full swivel tail wheel assy. from Travis and modified it to use the
> stock tail wheel.Other than the pain from hack sawing the new tail
> wheel assy. in two,it has stayed intact.I thought I was the cause
> of the failure by the way I drug the wheel sideways when turning.You
> were not doing that?
> G.Aman
> -----Original Message-----
> From: frank.goodnight <frank.goodnight(at)att.net>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 5:15 am
> Subject: Kolb-List: Broken tail FireStar 2
>
> >
>
> At 60 hrs and no rough handling the short cromemolly tube that is
> welded to the ring that is attached to the tail boom broke. there
> are 2 stubs , one on top of the ring and one on the bottom.
> The one on the bottom broke. Also the very bottom aluminum tube
> broke. My vertical stabalizer is very nearly ready to leave the A/C.
> I fold my plane every time I fly , so I was lucky enough to
> have my face a foot from the break when I went to attach my tail
> wires. The tail had moved enough to tear the fabric , but it would
> have been hard to catch on a normal preflight if had been left
> unfolded.
>
> After talking to Travis and Dennis at Kolb we found out that the
> factory had left out 3 gussets when they welded up the tailpost on the top stub and 2 on the bottom> They have sent me the gussets
> and enough tubeing to make a repair.
>
> Also I talked to Brian Milborne and he said that someone had just
> called him about a wrinkle in the fabric in the area we are talking
> about . That plane will be coming to Brian for a condition inspection
> soon, So maby Brian will have more to say after he looks at it.
>
> Frank Goodnight
> HKS FireStar 2
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken tail FireStar 2 |
> A friend of mine's FSII broke in the same place. It seems that this is a
> weak link in a lot of Kolbs (normally high time) even with gussets. I
> bolted aluminum straps (1 X 1/8) from the sides of the fuselage tube to
> the lower vertical stabilizer to keep mine from breaking. John H 1st
> reported this as a weak point and suggested a similar fix on his MKIII.
>
> Rick Neilsen
Rick N:
Here are a few photos of what I did, plus one that Gary Haley did with
aluminum strap.
I have some photos of my tail post after modifying and prior to covering.
If I run across them, I will post.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts |
| From: | "Jimmy Young" <jdy100(at)comcast.net> |
>>I think Jimmy Y has a unique problem based on an engine hard mounted to the airframe.
--------
Jimmy Young
FS II, Generac V-Twin
Houston TX area
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228197#228197
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Video In High Definition: Flying My Kolb MK III Xtra |
| From: | "grantr" <grant_richardson25(at)yahoo.com> |
Mike,
I cant watch your video in HD it is choppy. Even when I pause and let the video
load a bit it still is choppy.
BTW how did you get the video to upload in HD? I tried uploading a MPEG 4 a while
back and it will not allow HD.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228205#228205
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken tail FireStar 2 |
> I like that... the same area has always concerned me on my US (especially
> with the 1/16" tail brace wires), though I've had no problems so far. Was
> that an existing bolt in the tube or did you drill out one of the rivets?
> It doesn't look like you have an "H" section inside the tube like the US,
> though, is this correct?
>
> I'm also tempted to redo the elevator connection like that, instead of the
> US arrangement where I have to install the pin and ring every time I
> unfold the tail.
>
> -Dana
Dana:
The photo of the aluminum strap is Gary Haley's mkIII. I'm sure he drilled
out a rivet in the ring and a new hole in the lower vertical stabilizer
tube.
Dan Horton came up with the idea for the external braces on my tail post,
after several attempts at strengthening it with gussets. He ovalized some
3/8 or 1/2" 4130 tubes, we didn't have and streamlined ones, then welded to
the tail post ring and the bottom tube.
MKIII does not use tubes, rather a ring for tail post attachment.
Most folks think the wire bracing on the tail section is for bracing. Not
true. Their function in life is to keep the vertical and horizontal
stabilizers positioned. The only lateral bracing on the tail post is where
the top and bottom stub tubes are welded to the top and bottom of the tail
post ring. On the ground, especially without a full swivel tail wheel,
there are tremendous lateral loads placed on the tail post in the area of
the ring. Those two little external braces do a good job of beefing up
lateral strength in the tail post. I installed mine in 2004, after I
discovered the tail post had broken in two at the bottom of the ring. This
happened within days of my return from Alaska. I was very fortunate.
If I was flying an Ultrastar, I think I would got to 3/32" tail wires. I
flew mine with 1/16" wire, but that was 25 years ago. I lot of experience
has flowed under the bridge since then. I look at a lot of "stuff" quite
differently now than I did back then.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JR" <jrsmith2(at)triad.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Video In High Definition: Flying My Kolb MK III Xtra |
Beautiful glades, beautiful kolb, and more beautiful wife... thanks for
sharing!
----- Original Message -----
From: "grantr" <grant_richardson25(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 3:59 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Video In High Definition: Flying My Kolb MK III Xtra
>
> Mike,
>
> I cant watch your video in HD it is choppy. Even when I pause and let the
> video load a bit it still is choppy.
>
> BTW how did you get the video to upload in HD? I tried uploading a MPEG 4
> a while back and it will not allow HD.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228205#228205
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken tail FireStar 2 |
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, February 02, 2009 9:20 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken tail FireStar 2
Sorry about that. Fired a blank.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne Boyter" <wboyter(at)q.com> |
Good Morning
I have a trailer that I use to haul my kolb mark 3 on for sale. It
worked very well, it has the tail support and wing cradles, with wench,
$750.00
Wayne Boyter
Roseburg, OR 97470
541-679-3831
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Broken tail FireStar 2 |
| From: | zeprep251(at)aol.com |
Frank,
???? Two reasons really.I have a track in the trailer that has a groove in it to
guide the plane back into the trailer,and the small cross tube just above the
wheel, has two small loops welded to it for my tow bar.The swivel tail wheel
is beefy and heavy and I'm already heavy in the tail.So I cut the pivot bolt
off just below the flange and had the original cross tube and tail wheel? assy.
welded with 2 small gussets to the bottom of that? bolt.Saved some weight and
allowed me to use the old tail wheel rig.The tough part was shortening the
bar where the chains and s hooks attach and drilling two new holes in it to keep
the steering geometry the same That bar is extremely hard.Almost as hard as
staring at that $ 307.00 assy.in the vise when you have a hacksaw in your hand.
? G Aman
?????
-----Original Message-----
From: frank.goodnight <frank.goodnight(at)att.net>
Sent: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 7:38 am
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken tail FireStar 2
Yes I have locked one brake , added about 1/2 power to turn around in a tight place
. When I talked to Travis I explained , He said it was not a very good thing
to do , however most Kolb drivers
do it at one time or another. I won"t do it again. I also ordered a full swivel
tail wheel. Why did you replace the wheel that came with full swivel unit with
the original one?
??Thanks for your input.
Frank Goodnight
HKS FireStar 2?
??I guess the point of my post was ?so other FireStar owners will be aware that
the tail assy. CAN break. Incidentally the people at Kolb told me that they had
never heard of those parts breaking.
On Feb 2, 2009, at 9:00 AM, zeprep251(at)aol.com wrote:
Frank,
?I also broke those parts,but I was using the brakes.to swing the plane around
when parking and put a lot of twisting load on things.The first thing to fail
was the aluminum tube that goes from the bottom of the tail post up to the tail
boom,right where it leaves the steel.Replaced it with a thicker tube,then broke
the bottom stub tube at the ring you mentioned shortly after,but I was really
watching things closely every time I folded by then.Drilled the tail assy
off and had it welded, with some gussets,ordered a full swivel tail wheel assy.
from Travis and modified it to use the stock tail wheel.Other than the pain
from hack sawing the new tail wheel? assy. in two,it has stayed intact.I thought
I was the cause of the failure by the way I drug the wheel sideways when turning.You
were not doing that?
????????????????????????? G.Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: frank.goodnight <frank.goodnight(at)att.net>
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 5:15 am
Subject: Kolb-List: Broken tail FireStar 2
?
At 60 hrs and no rough handling the short cromemolly tube that is welded to the
ring that is attached to the tail boom broke. there are 2 stubs , one on top
of the ring and one on the bottom.?
The one on the bottom broke. Also the very bottom aluminum tube broke. My vertical
stabalizer is very nearly ready to leave the A/C. I fold my plane every time
I fly , so I was lucky enough to?
have my face a foot from the break when I went to attach my tail wires. The tail
had moved enough to tear the fabric , but it would have been hard to catch
on a normal preflight if had been left unfolded.?
?
? After talking to Travis and Dennis at Kolb we found out that the factory had
left out 3 gussets when they welded up the tailpost They have sent me the gussets?
and enough tubeing to make a repair.?
?
? Also I talked to Brian Milborne and he said that someone had just called him
about a wrinkle in the fabric in the area we are talking about . That plane will
be coming to Brian for a condition inspection?
soon, So maby Brian will have more to say after he looks at it.?
?
Frank Goodnight?
HKS FireStar 2?
?
?
?
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken tail FireStar 2 |
I"m writeing this post to thank the people that responded to my
problem. After being told by Kolb that they had never heard of this
happening to any of their airplanes, and being new to Kolb , and
flying in
general I was in a rather deep funk. I knew I could do a repair ,BUT
if it broke once it might break again and I might not catch it in
time. Finding that it"s rather common ,and that we have a simple
permanent
fix was a big relief. I will be sending Matt some money to help keep
the website going . It"s already been worth it. THANKS again.
Frank Goodnight
HKS FireStar 2
On Feb 2, 2009, at 7:15 AM, frank.goodnight wrote:
> >
>
> At 60 hrs and no rough handling the short cromemolly tube that is
> welded to the ring that is attached to the tail boom broke. there
> are 2 stubs , one on top of the ring and one on the bottom.
> The one on the bottom broke. Also the very bottom aluminum tube
> broke. My vertical stabalizer is very nearly ready to leave the A/C.
> I fold my plane every time I fly , so I was lucky enough to
> have my face a foot from the break when I went to attach my tail
> wires. The tail had moved enough to tear the fabric , but it would
> have been hard to catch on a normal preflight if had been left
> unfolded.
>
> After talking to Travis and Dennis at Kolb we found out that the
> factory had left out 3 gussets when they welded up the tailpost on the top stub and 2 on the bottom> They have sent me the gussets
> and enough tubeing to make a repair.
>
> Also I talked to Brian Milborne and he said that someone had just
> called him about a wrinkle in the fabric in the area we are talking
> about . That plane will be coming to Brian for a condition inspection
> soon, So maby Brian will have more to say after he looks at it.
>
> Frank Goodnight
> HKS FireStar 2
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
I currently have aluminum gear legs on my MkIII (and a spare set on
the shelf)
Now I am considering changing out for the steel ones, not for any
reason other than
the increased stance on the ground. -not because it "looks cool" but
because I am
going to experiment with decreased wing incidence and it would be
nice to have enough
to get off the ground.
Anyone with a spare set lying around? I would be interested.
Otherwise I will go to TNK
BTW, what is the actual height gain over the original?
BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
Bob,
Although I built my own steel gear legs, I did build them from the measurements
of someone who does have genuine Kolb steel legs. Plus, I called TNK and had Donnie
measure the stance height of the cage, directly below the socket.
The gain in height will be very close to 5 inches. 5" may not sound like much,
but it
is a bunch!!
Mike Welch
MkIII
----------------------------------------
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> From: slyck(at)frontiernet.net
> Subject: Kolb-List: legs
> Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 12:18:24 -0500
>
>
> I currently have aluminum gear legs on my MkIII (and a spare set on
> the shelf)
> Now I am considering changing out for the steel ones, not for any
> reason other than
> the increased stance on the ground. -not because it "looks cool" but
> because I am
> going to experiment with decreased wing incidence and it would be
> nice to have enough
> to get off the ground.
> Anyone with a spare set lying around? I would be interested.
> Otherwise I will go to TNK
>
> BTW, what is the actual height gain over the original?
> BB
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail:more than just e-mail.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_hm_justgotbetter_explore_012009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chris davis <capedavis(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Broken tail FireStar 2 |
John , Isnt it amazing how "wisdom" sneeks up on you-,and how you think
-you-dont have any!=0AChris=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________
=0AFrom: John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>=0ATo: kolb-list(at)matronics.com=0A
Sent: Monday, February 2, 2009 6:14:42 PM=0ASubject: Re: Kolb-List: Broken
elmore.rr.com>=0A=0A=0A> I like that... the same area has always concerned
me on my US (especially=0A> with the 1/16" tail brace wires), though I've h
ad no problems so far.- Was that an existing bolt in the tube or did you
drill out one of the rivets?=0A=0A> It doesn't look like you have an "H" se
ction inside the tube like the US, though, is this correct?=0A> =0A> I'm al
so tempted to redo the elevator connection like that, instead of the US arr
angement where I have to install the pin and ring every time I unfold the t
ail.=0A> =0A> -Dana=0A=0A=0ADana:=0A=0AThe photo of the aluminum strap is G
ary Haley's mkIII.- I'm sure he drilled out a rivet in the ring and a new
hole in the lower vertical stabilizer tube.=0A=0ADan Horton came up with t
he idea for the external braces on my tail post, after several attempts at
strengthening it with gussets.- He ovalized some 3/8 or 1/2" 4130 tubes,
we didn't have and streamlined ones, then welded to the tail post ring and
the bottom tube.=0A=0AMKIII does not use tubes, rather a ring for tail post
attachment.=0A=0AMost folks think the wire bracing on the tail section is
for bracing.- Not true.- Their function in life is to keep the vertical
and horizontal stabilizers positioned.- The only lateral bracing on the
tail post is where the top and bottom stub tubes are welded to the top and
bottom of the tail post ring.- On the ground, especially without a full s
wivel tail wheel, there are tremendous lateral loads placed on the tail pos
t in the area of the ring.- Those two little external braces do a good jo
b of beefing up lateral strength in the tail post.- I installed mine in 2
004, after I discovered the tail post had broken in two at the bottom of th
e ring.- This happened within days of my return from Alaska.- I was ver
y fortunate.=0A=0AIf I was flying an Ultrastar, I think I would got to 3/32
" tail wires.- I flew mine with 1/16" wire, but that was 25 years ago.-
I lot of experience has flowed under the bridge since then.- I look at a
lot of "stuff" quite differently now than I did back then.=0A=0Ajohn h=0Am
=================0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
Robert - first I am not challenging you on what your proposing to do,
that is reduce your wings incidence, just trying to understand why
and what your trying to accomplish.
I know you have been around a while so for others by changing the
wing incidence on an aircraft like a Kolb will change it's takeoff
performance, make it better or make worst. It can also impact it's
stall attitude thus the desired stance during landing operation which
thus impacts the gear configuration and vise-versa. It will also
impact the planes cruise attitude which can impact it's cruise speed,
clean and straight at cruise power setting versus a less than optimum
flight attitude at cruise resulting in greater induced drag thus lower speed.
jerb
At 11
:18 AM 2/3/2009, you wrote:
>
>I currently have aluminum gear legs on my MkIII (and a spare set on
>the shelf)
>Now I am considering changing out for the steel ones, not for any
>reason other than
>the increased stance on the ground. -not because it "looks cool" but
>because I am
>going to experiment with decreased wing incidence and it would be
>nice to have enough
>to get off the ground.
>Anyone with a spare set lying around? I would be interested.
>Otherwise I will go to TNK
>
>BTW, what is the actual height gain over the original?
>BB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Video In High Definition: Flying My Kolb MK III Xtra |
Hey Folks,
Not to take away from Mike and his wife's nice flight video I noticed
on the You-Tube video on the right hand side below the description of
the video under Category, Entertainment, Tags there are number of
less than desirable tags related to this Category. Take a look,
looks like they may have been appended on to the original Tag
list. Looks bad. Should one of us contact You-Tube regarding this.
jerb
At 03:39 PM 1/30/2009, you wrote:
>
>Here is a High Definition video of my wife and I flying my Kolb MK
>III Xtra around South Florida. As always with You Tube, the stock
>quality is HORRIBLE, but if you click on " Watch in HD " which is in
>blue at the bottom right of the video, and then click on " Watch in
>Full Screen " the quality will be pretty incredible. Enjoy...
>
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNNdSS7jcgY
>
>Mike
>
>--------
>"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as
>you could have !!!
>
>Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227744#227744
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
| Subject: | face book trip to the Alvord |
I am trying to fly as much as I can to get the new engine broken in
before summer, so a trip to the Alvord was in order.
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid 09727&l=181a3&id=1002056194
This should be a link that will allow you to see the photo's that I took
with out having to join.
The weather was pretty nice for this time of the year, 42 Degrees, clear
but hazy skies. Little or no wind. I flew 91 miles in one hour and 24
minutes, burning 3 GPH.
Larry C, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TheWanderingWench <thewanderingwench(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: face book trip to the Alvord |
Larry -
Your photos are great! Thanks for sharing them. I've never seen Steens Mountain
with so much snow - since I'm always there in the fall, there's usually only
snow at the highest peaks. Great stuff.
Arty Trost
Sandy, Oregon
www.LessonsFromTheEdge.com
"Life's a daring adventure or nothing" Helen Keller
"I refuse to tip toe through life just to arrive safely at death."
--- On Tue, 2/3/09, Larry Cottrell wrote:
> From: Larry Cottrell <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com>
> Subject: Kolb-List: face book trip to the Alvord
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, February 3, 2009, 9:00 PM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I am trying to fly as much as I can
> to get the new engine
> broken in before summer, so a trip to the Alvord was in
> order.
> http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid 09727&l=181a3&id=1002056194
>
> This should be a link that
> will allow you to see the
> photo's that I took with out having to join.
>
>
> The weather was pretty nice
> for this time of the
> year, 42 Degrees, clear but hazy skies. Little or no wind.
> I flew 91 miles in
> one hour and 24 minutes, burning 3 GPH.
>
> Larry C,
> Oregon
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
You are quite right, and I hope to be around for a while longer :)
Just experimenting. I can always revert back to stock.
It is an easy process with my bird as I don't have as much to fiddle
with the center section.
A couple of new holes in the spar ears and shims for the tin.
Check for control rod adjustment.
I won't initially change horizontal stab incidence because of a
factor I shall not divulge yet.
-only if it works
BB
On 3, Feb 2009, at 11:05 PM, jerb wrote:
>
> Robert - first I am not challenging you on what your proposing to
> do, that is reduce your wings incidence, just trying to understand
> why and what your trying to accomplish.
>
> I know you have been around a while so for others by changing the
> wing incidence on an aircraft like a Kolb will change it's takeoff
> performance, make it better or make worst. It can also impact it's
> stall attitude thus the desired stance during landing operation
> which thus impacts the gear configuration and vise-versa. It will
> also impact the planes cruise attitude which can impact it's cruise
> speed, clean and straight at cruise power setting versus a less
> than optimum flight attitude at cruise resulting in greater induced
> drag thus lower speed.
> jerb
>
>
> At 11
> :18 AM 2/3/2009, you wrote:
>>
>> I currently have aluminum gear legs on my MkIII (and a spare set on
>> the shelf)
>> Now I am considering changing out for the steel ones, not for any
>> reason other than
>> the increased stance on the ground. -not because it "looks cool" but
>> because I am
>> going to experiment with decreased wing incidence and it would be
>> nice to have enough
>> to get off the ground.
>> Anyone with a spare set lying around? I would be interested.
>> Otherwise I will go to TNK
>>
>> BTW, what is the actual height gain over the original?
>> BB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
Liked your reply Robert, sounds like some past experience and lessons
learned.
Knowledge can be taught or in some cases learned and confirmed from
practice, (some past experience comes to mind of my mother telling me
not to touch the stove because it was hot and I would get burned -
yep confirmed she was right, she had knowledge).
In reference to incidence and stance I got mine from practice with
another aircraft. Lesson 1 - If you have the wrong stance an
airplane will resist becoming airborne at lower normally flyable
takeoff roll speeds. Lesson 2- if it has the correct stance but the
wing has the wrong incidence, it will increase take off roll and lift
off speed. Think about what would contribute to this.
Robert, now we need for you to pass on your knowledge to us younger
generations of lessons learned pertaining to the horizontal stabilizer.
jerb
At 07:25 AM 2/4/2009, you wrote:
>
>You are quite right, and I hope to be around for a while longer :)
>
>Just experimenting. I can always revert back to stock.
>It is an easy process with my bird as I don't have as much to fiddle
>with the center section.
>A couple of new holes in the spar ears and shims for the tin.
>Check for control rod adjustment.
>I won't initially change horizontal stab incidence because of a
>factor I shall not divulge yet.
>-only if it works
>BB
>
>On 3, Feb 2009, at 11:05 PM, jerb wrote:
>
>>
>>Robert - first I am not challenging you on what your proposing to
>>do, that is reduce your wings incidence, just trying to understand
>>why and what your trying to accomplish.
>>
>>I know you have been around a while so for others by changing the
>>wing incidence on an aircraft like a Kolb will change it's takeoff
>>performance, make it better or make worst. It can also impact it's
>>stall attitude thus the desired stance during landing operation
>>which thus impacts the gear configuration and vise-versa. It will
>>also impact the planes cruise attitude which can impact it's cruise
>>speed, clean and straight at cruise power setting versus a less
>>than optimum flight attitude at cruise resulting in greater induced
>>drag thus lower speed.
>>jerb
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>At 11
>>:18 AM 2/3/2009, you wrote:
>>>
>>>I currently have aluminum gear legs on my MkIII (and a spare set on
>>>the shelf)
>>>Now I am considering changing out for the steel ones, not for any
>>>reason other than
>>>the increased stance on the ground. -not because it "looks cool" but
>>>because I am
>>>going to experiment with decreased wing incidence and it would be
>>>nice to have enough
>>>to get off the ground.
>>>Anyone with a spare set lying around? I would be interested.
>>>Otherwise I will go to TNK
>>>
>>>BTW, what is the actual height gain over the original?
>>>BB
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Homer Kolb was, and still is, more interested in slow flight, than faster
flight. He is still designing and building slow, high lift airplanes.
Designing increased wing incidence into his airplanes, Homer was able to
satisfy several of his requirements:
-Design the airplane to sit in a near level attitude on the ground, and be
able to take off and land in a near level attitude. His idea was to prevent
low time pilots from getting into take off and landing stalls.
-Fly very slow without the tail sagging excessively.
In accomplishing the above, it created some problems for my kind of flying:
-Cruise speed is reduced because the tail flies high, dragging the top of
the tail boom through the air, increasing drag.
-Discourages three point landings, increasing landing and take off
distances.
I would have already removed a lot of the incidence in my wings if it
weren't for refitting the windshield and center section. If I did it would
be very easy to increase nose height on the ground by increasing gear leg
length. I'm running 24" gear legs on my "Hauck" main gear. This puts my
MKIII about 4 or 5" higher than a stock MKIII. Would be pretty easy to
increase them as much as required to get the job done. Using standard MKIII
gear leg sockets with their low angle, turned down gear legs are required to
get the nose up without getting excessive track (width between main gear).
The primary reason the Sling Shot sits in a nose high attitude on the ground
is because of reduced wing incidence. The tail boom flies level, reducing
drag.
The Kolbra has less wing incidence, flies in a similar attitude as the Sling
Shot, and cruises 10 to 15 mph faster than my mkIII when both aircraft are
powered with the 912ULS.
Too late in the game for me to start making major changes to my MKIII.
Although another 10 to 15 mph cruise would be nice on a long cross country,
it ain't worth all the effort to make the changes.
john h
mkIII - From 18F to 31F by 1100 hours. Too cold to play outside today.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The BaronVonEvil" <grageda(at)innw.net> |
Hi All,
Perhaps another way to tweak the incidence on your Kolbs is to pickup a set of
the England U-Joints. They will allow you to make minor changes in the wing incidence
to see if it is something that would improve your Kolb with out cutting
or welding.
If you see some improvement you like then you can make permanent changes to your
wings or tail feathers.
Best Regards
Carlos G
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228462#228462
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/english_u_joint_328.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Engine at Sebring |
It has been a bit slow on the list lately. It was also very interesting to
hear everyone's comments on this new engine. I really hope it makes it to
the market
At the time I posted the information on this engine I hadn't done much
research. I still don't know as much about the subject as I would like but
thanks to Dave's link and some web browsing I have learned a bit.
This engine is based on a very successful German engine that flew in a
number of airplanes. It was also licensed and built in England and another
country. Why it didn't catch on is likely a matter of real cheap fuel and a
aviation community that is afraid to change. Remember Lycoming and
Continental are still producing engines that really haven't changed since
the 1940s. If you fix something you can be sued because you have just proven
for the lawyers that there was a problem.
Specific fuel consumption is a term that is real hard to get a handle on.
The biggest problem is determining how that relates to fuel consumption at
cruise. The tables I see on the internet show a .4 SFC as a common fuel burn
for diesel engines and .5 for gasoline engines. In flight in a Kolb it it is
only speculation what the gal/hr would be but at a given power level but it
would be less. The neat thing about a diesel engine is that they will burn
the same SFC at almost all power settings. In other words a 100 HP Rotax
engine has super power when you need it but you pay for it in increased fuel
consumption in cruise. A diesel engine like the Gemini 100 would give you
the same power when you want it but get better fuel consumption than say a
80 HP Rotax when you pull the power back to cruise. It is also likely you
could pull power to a economy cruise and get close to 2 gallons per hour at
say 55-65 mph in a MKIII.
Again I'm dreaming. If this engine works out consider the possibilities. A
TBO of 2000-3000+ hours (your fuel is a lubricant). Lower fuel weight or
longer range with the same fuel. If you get low on fuel you can power back
and significantly extend your range. No spark plugs, no valves, no carb
icing, smooth running, greatly reduced fire danger in flight and in a crash.
Same price and only 18 lbs. more weight than 912ULS.
If you think the price is too high consider a VW.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Lucas" <d_a_lucas(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 10:38 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: New Engine at Sebring
>
> quote]I have read about that engine, it seems way over complicated That
> crazy setup is based on a German design around WWII, if it were a good
> design, I think someone somewhere would have used it in the last 50
> years.... [/quote]
>
> Got to keep an open mind Mike, an 'Old' idea re-visited with 'New'
> technology applied is smart thinking. I don't think any investor would put
> his money into such a project if it didn't have a promising future.
>
> There's quite a good write up from some engineering professionals here;
>
> http://www.amtonline.com/print/Aircraft-Maintenance-Technology/Gemini-100/1$4434
>
> Pro's and Con's to it of course but it seems they're quite open to see how
> it develops.
>
> David.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=227499#227499
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
| Subject: | CHT sender check, HKS |
I checked the CHT senders today by boiling some water and using a
dial thermometer and the sender at the same time. I found that the
cylinder that has been sending the highest temp is for all intents and
purposes right on, and the one that was reading a bit lower is off by
the amount that it was showing lower. In other words there is nothing
wrong with the senders.
I hope to put some more time on the engine today.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
I agree once more and that approach would be simpler but lowering the
front will accomplish another
feat that I, personally, wish to do. -the change in geometry will
also increase dihedral. Counterproductive?
Yes, in that it will reduce the lift efficiency of the wing a trifle
by increasing tip loss (and vortex)
But that's what old knothead here is curious about.
BB
I like the behavior of more dihedral because it allows you to cruise
more with your feet.
On 4, Feb 2009, at 12:22 PM, The BaronVonEvil wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> Perhaps another way to tweak the incidence on your Kolbs is to
> pickup a set of the England U-Joints. They will allow you to make
> minor changes in the wing incidence to see if it is something that
> would improve your Kolb with out cutting or welding.
>
> If you see some improvement you like then you can make permanent
> changes to your wings or tail feathers.
>
> Best Regards
>
> Carlos G
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228462#228462
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/english_u_joint_328.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
When I rebuilt my mkIII after a hard landing... I bought new lift strut
fittings and I put in twice the dihedral recommended... from memory here
I went from 1 1/2 to 3 inches at the end rib.
I went from a bit of negative roll stability to neutral roll stability..
still not going to drive with your feet.. but it was an improvement for me.
Boyd young
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I agree once more and that approach would be simpler but lowering the
front will accomplish another
feat that I, personally, wish to do. -the change in geometry will
also increase dihedral. Counterproductive?
Yes, in that it will reduce the lift efficiency of the wing a trifle
by increasing tip loss (and vortex)
But that's what old knothead here is curious about.
BB
I like the behavior of more dihedral because it allows you to cruise
more with your feet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Boyd, thanx for your input and I will render more thought into my
future changes.
The main concern would be to have a struggle with the first test
flight after such "improvements"
BB
On 4, Feb 2009, at 3:16 PM, boyd wrote:
>
> When I rebuilt my mkIII after a hard landing... I bought new lift
> strut
> fittings and I put in twice the dihedral recommended... from
> memory here
> I went from 1 1/2 to 3 inches at the end rib.
> I went from a bit of negative roll stability to neutral roll
> stability..
> still not going to drive with your feet.. but it was an
> improvement for me.
>
> Boyd young
>
>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
> I agree once more and that approach would be simpler but lowering the
> front will accomplish another
> feat that I, personally, wish to do. -the change in geometry will
> also increase dihedral. Counterproductive?
> Yes, in that it will reduce the lift efficiency of the wing a trifle
> by increasing tip loss (and vortex)
> But that's what old knothead here is curious about.
> BB
> I like the behavior of more dihedral because it allows you to cruise
> more with your feet.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzimm(at)gmail.com> |
Bob.
Think about this.
Anything you do on a Kolb to gain roll ability with your feet will be
at the expense of your cross wind capability.
Gene
On Feb 4, 2009, at 1:44 PM, robert bean wrote:
>
> I agree once more and that approach would be simpler but lowering
> the front will accomplish another
> feat that I, personally, wish to do. -the change in geometry will
> also increase dihedral. Counterproductive?
> Yes, in that it will reduce the lift efficiency of the wing a trifle
> by increasing tip loss (and vortex)
> But that's what old knothead here is curious about.
> BB
> I like the behavior of more dihedral because it allows you to cruise
> more with your feet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Thought accepted for consideration.
Legs ordered today. I woke Travis up.
Now thinking about wasting some more moola on another prop. My
office gets more artifacts hanging on the wall.
I have a beautiful 3 blade powerfin hanging behind my head now. Hope
the nail doesn't pull out of the wall.
Soon to be joined by a 70" warp. Both near virgin.
BB
On 4, Feb 2009, at 8:43 PM, Eugene Zimmerman wrote:
> Bob.
>
> Think about this.
> Anything you do on a Kolb to gain roll ability with your feet will
> be at the expense of your cross wind capability.
>
> Gene
>
>
> On Feb 4, 2009, at 1:44 PM, robert bean wrote:
>
>>
>> I agree once more and that approach would be simpler but lowering
>> the front will accomplish another
>> feat that I, personally, wish to do. -the change in geometry will
>> also increase dihedral. Counterproductive?
>> Yes, in that it will reduce the lift efficiency of the wing a
>> trifle by increasing tip loss (and vortex)
>> But that's what old knothead here is curious about.
>> BB
>> I like the behavior of more dihedral because it allows you to
>> cruise more with your feet.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "beauford" <beauford173(at)verizon.net> |
On Dihedral...
Cranked about 3 degrees into the Fly when building to induce positive (or at least
neutral) roll stability. No regrets. It works. Crosswinds no problem.
Worth what ye paid fer it...
Beauford
FF-076
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228583#228583
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/_mg_0747_custom_417.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
| Subject: | Facebook Photo's |
Here are some more photo's of the Oregon Desert. Doing my best to get
the engine broken in. Temps were low 40's, Sky clear, with a lot of
haze, no noticable wind. I flew cross country to a friends place,
Crystal Crane Hot Springs. Total of 141 miles, average speed of 67 MPH.
I did burn a bit more gas than I thought I would. A total of 8.25
gallons.Larry C
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30192613&l=78eba&id=100205619
4
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Facebook Photo's |
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
Cool photos, Larry! Do you ever fly lower? Ever thought of landing on a mesa?
-- Robert
On Wed, Feb 4, 2009 at 9:54 PM, Larry Cottrell wrote:
> Here are some more photo's of the Oregon Desert. Doing my best to get the
> engine broken in. Temps were low 40's, Sky clear, with a lot of haze, no
> noticable wind. I flew cross country to a friends place, Crystal Crane Hot
> Springs. Total of 141 miles, average speed of 67 MPH. I did burn a bit more
> gas than I thought I would. A total of 8.25 gallons.Larry C
>
> http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30192613&l=78eba&id=1002056194
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Facebook Photo's |
According to my wife, my biggest problem is that I fly too low. :-)
Actually if I am not going somewhere my average height is about 100
feet, sometimes lower, but this time I had to go to 7000 just to clear
the mountains. All of the terrain under the plane is not suitable for
landing. That is the nice part about flying high, it all looks good and
smooth. The little dirt roads are your only hope of not tearing
something up, and it is generally a long way to any where you could find
help.
Larry C, Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Laird
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2009 9:01 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Facebook Photo's
Cool photos, Larry! Do you ever fly lower? Ever thought of landing
on a mesa?
-- Robert
On Wed, Feb 4, 2009 at 9:54 PM, Larry Cottrell
wrote:
> Here are some more photo's of the Oregon Desert. Doing my best to
get the
> engine broken in. Temps were low 40's, Sky clear, with a lot of
haze, no
> noticable wind. I flew cross country to a friends place, Crystal
Crane Hot
> Springs. Total of 141 miles, average speed of 67 MPH. I did burn a
bit more
> gas than I thought I would. A total of 8.25 gallons.Larry C
>
>
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=30192613&l=78eba&id=100205619
4
>
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
02/03/09 17:48:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Facebook Photo's |
The little dirt roads are your only hope of not tearing something up, and it is
generally a long way to any where you could find help.
> Larry C, Oregon
Larry:
It is difficult to understand just how desolate and sparsely populated your neck
of the woods is until one actually flies it in a Kolb.
Can't wait to get back.
john h
mkIII - 21F and falling.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
For what ever reason Face book is giving me a bad time. I think that the
other link that I sent only shows one photo. There are 25 in the album.
This one will take you there.
Sorry,
Larry C
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid 09806&l=c03c3&id=1002056194
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fw: face book |
| From: | zeprep251(at)aol.com |
Larry,
?? Great pictures! Want to ask you about the EIS readings.The 2.5 reading and below
it the 5? When I was flying my FS there was one page that showed the egts
and chts for both cyls on the far right,vsi in the lower middle and alt and rpm
on far left.Can you still program the unit yourself?
?????????????????????????????????? G Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Cottrell <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com>
Sent: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 9:10 pm
Subject: Kolb-List: Fw: face book
For what ever reason Face book is giving me a bad time. I
think that the other link that I sent only shows one photo. There are 25 in the
album. This one will take you there.
Sorry,
Larry C
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid 09806&l=c03c3&id=1002056194
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: face book |
----- Original Message -----
From: zeprep251(at)aol.com
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 6:33 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fw: face book
Larry,
Great pictures! Want to ask you about the EIS readings.The 2.5
reading and below it the 5? When I was flying my FS there was one page
that showed the egts and chts for both cyls on the far right,vsi in the
lower middle and alt and rpm on far left.Can you still program the unit
yourself?
G Aman
Gary,
The 2.5 is my aux reading for my fuel tank, The four stroke EIS has
two aux sensors, I only use one of them and the default is 5 on the
unused one. It indicates that I have 2.5 gallons of fuel left in that
tank.
There are several screens available to use. The one that I prefer
shows from left to right - top left is RPM, bottom left is Oil temp/
pressure, middle is the Aux readings of fuel levels, The far right is
highest EGT on top and the highest CHT on the bottom.
Larry C
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fw: face book |
| From: | zeprep251(at)aol.com |
Larry,
? Totally forgot about oil temp and pressure.Still thinking 2 stroke.Still enjoy
your photos.
?? Thanx G.Aman
.
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Cottrell <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com>
Sent: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 7:05 am
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fw: face book
?
----- Original Message -----
From:
zeprep251(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 6:33
AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fw: face
book
Larry,
?? Great
pictures! Want to ask you about the EIS readings.The 2.5 reading and below it
the 5? When I was flying my FS there was one page that showed the egts and
chts for both cyls on the far right,vsi in the lower middle and alt and rpm on
far left.Can you still program the unit yourself?
??????????????????????????????????
G Aman
Gary,
?? The 2.5 is my aux reading for my fuel tank,
The four stroke EIS has two aux sensors, I only use one of them and the
default is 5 on the unused one.? It indicates that I have 2.5 gallons of
fuel left in that tank.?
?
There are several screens available to use. The one that
I prefer shows from left to right - top left is RPM, bottom left is Oil temp/
pressure, middle is the Aux readings of fuel levels, The far right is highest
EGT on top and the highest CHT on the bottom.
?
Larry C
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Video In High Definition: Flying My Kolb MK III Xtra |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Grant,
To get your videos loaded into You Tube in the highest quality, when you edit the
video, make the final video at a resolution of 1280 x 720 and upload it at
that resolution. The video can be up to 1 Gigabyte in size, and it will take
a long time to upload, but it will work. Even if your camera is not HD, uploading
in this resolution will result in the best quality video from a normal camera.
The jerking if you are getting it is due to your computer slowing down. Make sure
there is nothing else running when you watch HD video, it does take a pretty
fast computer to watch HD smoothly.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228700#228700
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Check your Horiz. Stblzr bolts |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
My horizontal stab front attachment bolts show zero wear after about 200 hours.
It is very important for the tail attachment to be able to slide on these bolts,
if not the attachment will fatigue due to bending and fail [Shocked]
I keep this area as well as all other moving areas well greased. Not only do I
have zero wear, my flight controls feel like they are on bearings. Someone
mentioned the issue of grease attracting dirt, which is not ideal, but this just
has not been a problem. Given the reports in this thread, metal to metal
wear is a problem and is bad.
So for the grease causing more wear theory, it is just not happening. There is
a saying " Results trump theory every time ". I will go with what is actually
happening rather than what someone thinks might be a probelm.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228704#228704
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
I don't think you will gain any appreciable speed by lowering the incidence of
the wings. In the end, at cruise, you will still have to fly with the wings at
the same angle of attack for a given speed. Your nose will be sticking up more
in cruise, and you will feel like you are climbing when you are level.
I think the much faster speeds in the Kolbra and Slingshot are due to the reduced
drag of a narrow tandem fuselage, and very little to do with the reduced wing
incidence. If a lot of cruise speed could be gained as easily as just reducing
the wing incidence and putting taller gear in, I think Kolb and a lot of
others would have already done this.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228706#228706
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Facebook Photo's |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Really great pictures Larry, that looks like a great place to fly. That HKS is
a great engine to have considering the terrain you fly over.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228719#228719
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
| Subject: | HKS heat problems |
Earlier Richard G. suggested that I needed to lower my clip one notch to
get more fuel into the carbs to lower my CHT's, while on the face of it
the idea is sound. I resisted doing that because the engine is oil
cooled, and if anything the oil temps were a bit lower that it really
should have been, and did not correlate. The EGT's were lower than they
should have been as well. It just didn't compute.
On my flight yesterday I left my choke on full while I flew 70 miles on
one leg of the trip. ( I am a bit ashamed that it wasn't on purpose) My
temps were actually cooler by about 10 degrees or a bit more. The engine
ran fine, enough that I had no idea that I had left it on. For the
return 70 miles I did not have the choke on, and the CHT was a bit
higher, but not quite (seemed to me) as high as it has been. I do have
almost 10 hours on the engine now. Today I pulled the plugs to see what
they look like. They are sooty, not terribly, but indicate too much gas
getting to them.
Now I want to assure you that I mean no criticism of any of the ideas
that I have been given by any of you. We are all fumbling in the dark,
with not enough information to know what course to take. I did want to
share with those who might be interested what seems to be happening.
Another disclaimer is needed here. I am a pessimist by nature, operating
on the theory that I can only be vindicated if things go wrong and best
case, pleasantly pleased when they work out.
My conclusion- I need to fly more!
Larry C
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HKS heat problems |
| From: | zeprep251(at)aol.com |
Larry,
??? The EGT on my 2200 jabiru are 1390 at cruise.I don't know if the mixture will
have much effect on CHTs,they are air cooled and run almost constantly at 290.On
GA aircraft engines,leaning to peak often gives exhaust temps in that range.Does
HKS give any guide lines for temps?
??????????????????????????????????????????? G.Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Cottrell <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com>
Sent: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 2:56 pm
Subject: Kolb-List: HKS heat problems
Earlier Richard G. suggested that I needed to lower my
clip one notch to get more fuel into the carbs to lower my CHT's, while on the
face of it the idea is sound. I resisted doing that because the engine is oil
cooled, and if anything the oil temps were a bit lower that?it really
should have been, and did not correlate.?The?EGT's were lower than
they should have been as well. It just didn't compute.
?
?On my flight yesterday I left my choke on full while
I flew 70 miles on one leg of the trip. ( I?am a bit ashamed?that it
wasn't on purpose) ?My temps were actually cooler by about 10 degrees or a
bit more. The engine ran fine, enough that I had no idea that I had left it on.
For the return 70 miles I did not have the choke on, and the CHT was a bit
higher, but not quite (seemed to me) as high as it has been. I do have almost 10
hours on the engine now. Today I pulled the plugs to see what they look like.
They are sooty, not terribly, but indicate too much gas getting to them.
?
Now I want to assure you that I mean no criticism of any
of the ideas that I have been given by any of you. We are all fumbling in the
dark, with not enough information to know what course to take. I did want to
share with those who might be interested what seems to be happening.
?
Another disclaimer is needed here. I am a pessimist by
nature, operating on the theory that I can only be vindicated if things go wrong
and best case, pleasantly pleased when they work out.
?
My conclusion- I need to fly more!
?
Larry C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HKS heat problems |
Max is supposed to be 1400 at the point that I have my probes located.
Larry C
----- Original Message -----
From: zeprep251(at)aol.com
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 4:20 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: HKS heat problems
Larry,
The EGT on my 2200 jabiru are 1390 at cruise.I don't know if the
mixture will have much effect on CHTs,they are air cooled and run almost
constantly at 290.On GA aircraft engines,leaning to peak often gives
exhaust temps in that range.Does HKS give any guide lines for temps?
G.Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Cottrell <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com>
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 2:56 pm
Subject: Kolb-List: HKS heat problems
Earlier Richard G. suggested that I needed to lower my clip one notch
to get more fuel into the carbs to lower my CHT's, while on the face of
it the idea is sound. I resisted doing that because the engine is oil
cooled, and if anything the oil temps were a bit lower that it really
should have been, and did not correlate. The EGT's were lower than they
should have been as well. It just didn't compute.
On my flight yesterday I left my choke on full while I flew 70 miles
on one leg of the trip. ( I am a bit ashamed that it wasn't on purpose)
My temps were actually cooler by about 10 degrees or a bit more. The
engine ran fine, enough that I had no idea that I had left it on. For
the return 70 miles I did not have the choke on, and the CHT was a bit
higher, but not quite (seemed to me) as high as it has been. I do have
almost 10 hours on the engine now. Today I pulled the plugs to see what
they look like. They are sooty, not terribly, but indicate too much gas
getting to them.
Now I want to assure you that I mean no criticism of any of the ideas
that I have been given by any of you. We are all fumbling in the dark,
with not enough information to know what course to take. I did want to
share with those who might be interested what seems to be happening.
Another disclaimer is needed here. I am a pessimist by nature,
operating on the theory that I can only be vindicated if things go wrong
and best case, pleasantly pleased when they work out.
My conclusion- I need to fly more!
Larry C
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
02/04/09 08:24:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "N111KX (Kip)" <n111kx(at)mindspring.com> |
Looks like some unfriendly terrain below. You must actually have to have a backup
plan if you get stranded out there.
I base my engine out decisions on whose backyard is the biggest...:)
--------
Kip
Firestar II, N111KX
Waiex, N111YX
Quickie 1, N111QX
Atlanta
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228788#228788
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
Looks like some unfriendly terrain below. You must actually have to
have a backup plan if you get stranded out there.
--------
Kip
I took a suggestion from Larry Bourne and bought a "Spot" locator that
I take with me, and leave a flight plan with the wife when I go. I also
try real hard to stick to it. One of the reasons that I bought the HKS
is that I like to go straight line, and this is the best I can do to
make it safe or at least stack the odds in my favor. The wife's
instructions in case I don't return, is to draw a line from my last
known position to where I was supposed to be going and I should be
somewhere close to that line. :-) As you can tell most of the places
here are few and far between. It isn't very hard at all to be somewhere
that it would take you more than a day to walk out of if you weren't
injured.
Larry C
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HKS heat problems |
| From: | zeprep251(at)aol.com |
Larry,
? While I had my FS ,I frequently flew with a friend with a Hawk Arrow with an
HKS.His fuel burn was consistently half of mine with the 503 DCDI.We cruised at
70-75mph and I burn about 4GPH @5700rpm to run with him.My EGTs would get above
1150 @ that rpm.I think once you get it dialed in you will really like the
economy.
?? G Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Cottrell <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com>
Sent: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 3:34 pm
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: HKS heat problems
Max is supposed to be 1400 at the point that I have my
probes located.
?
Larry C
----- Original Message -----
From:
zeprep251(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 4:20
PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: HKS heat
problems
Larry,
???
The EGT on my 2200 jabiru are 1390 at cruise.I don't know if the mixture will
have much effect on CHTs,they are air cooled and run almost constantly at
290.On GA aircraft engines,leaning to peak often gives exhaust temps in that
range.Does HKS give any guide lines for temps?
???????????????????????????????????????????
G.Aman
-----Original
Message-----
From: Larry Cottrell <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com>
kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 2:56 pm
Subject:
Kolb-List: HKS heat problems
Earlier Richard G. suggested that I needed to lower my
clip one notch to get more fuel into the carbs to lower my CHT's, while on the
face of it the idea is sound. I resisted doing that because the engine is oil
cooled, and if anything the oil temps were a bit lower that?it really
should have been, and did not correlate.?The?EGT's were lower than
they should have been as well. It just didn't compute.
?
?On my flight yesterday I left my choke on full
while I flew 70 miles on one leg of the trip. ( I?am a bit
ashamed?that it wasn't on purpose) ?My temps were actually cooler by
about 10 degrees or a bit more. The engine ran fine, enough that I had no idea
that I had left it on. For the return 70 miles I did not have the choke on,
and the CHT was a bit higher, but not quite (seemed to me) as high as it has
been. I do have almost 10 hours on the engine now. Today I pulled the plugs to
see what they look like. They are sooty, not terribly, but indicate too much
gas getting to them.
?
Now I want to assure you that I mean no criticism of any
of the ideas that I have been given by any of you. We are all fumbling in the
dark, with not enough information to know what course to take. I did want to
share with those who might be interested what seems to be happening.
?
Another disclaimer is needed here. I am a pessimist by
nature, operating on the theory that I can only be vindicated if things go
wrong and best case, pleasantly pleased when they work out.
?
My conclusion- I need to fly more!
?
Larry C
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
-
Release
Date: 02/04/09 08:24:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "N111KX (Kip)" <n111kx(at)mindspring.com> |
Larry, that's the kind of "plan" that I was thinking!
Way to go.
Is your locator a 406mhz type...?
--------
Kip
Firestar II, N111KX
Waiex, N111YX
Quickie 1, N111QX
Atlanta
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228839#228839
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
My ELT is the old "outdated" one, the other one is a "Find me Spot" that
you can buy at Sporting goods stores. I bought it at Christmas and got a
$50. rebate. You can send a 911 call, an OK call or a Help call,
whichever suits your condition, assuming of course that you are in any
kind of condition to do any of the above. The way that I use it is to
send a OK call that goes to my computer (and anyone else you designate),
that gives the wife a solid time and location of where I was, and that I
am heading back. Of course if I decide to deviate, then I can send
another one. It just basically narrows down the search requirements, and
makes her feel better. Not every one would need it, but here it could
be as bad as trying to find Fosset if you didn't show up.
http://www.findmespot.com/en/index.php?cid=1110 In case you would
like to check it out.
Larry C
----- Original Message -----
From: N111KX (Kip)
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 6:48 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: face book
Larry, that's the kind of "plan" that I was thinking!
Way to go.
Is your locator a 406mhz type...?
--------
Kip
Firestar II, N111KX
Waiex, N111YX
Quickie 1, N111QX
Atlanta
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228839#228839
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
02/05/09 11:34:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Larry:
Maybe I missed it, but Spot also has the capability of tracking your progre
ss with periodic updates of your position.
"TRACK PROGRESS: Also known as SPOTcastingSM, this feature allows friends a
nd family to follow your progress in real time using your password, or to s
ave waypoints so you can review your entire route at a later date."
I have an ACR 406 Microfix. It has internal GPS. It is to be used in emer
gency situations of life and death only. Contact is made with National Sea
rch and Rescue:
http://www.sarsat.noaa.gov/
I do a lot of ATV and Dirt Bike riding, solo most of the time, in addition
to flying. It would be nice to have the other capabilities of the Spot sys
tem, i.e., letting folks know I am ok but having mechanical problems, track
ing progress, and also contacting 911.
The PLB was about $600.00, but no annual fee and batteries are good for 5 y
ears.
Spot has annual service fee.
They balance out when it comes to capability and money.
Either one is good to have when you get into a position/situation where you
need it.
john h
mkIII
Of course if I decide to deviate, then I can send another one. It just b
asically narrows down the search requirements, and makes her feel better.
Not every one would need it, but here it could be as bad as trying to find
Fosset if you didn't show up.
http://www.findmespot.com/en/index.php?cid=1110
Larry C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
FYI, BigLar (Larry Bourne) has had only intermittent luck with the
Spot's periodic updates. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
My impression is that Spot's software and website is still in beta
mode.
-- Robert
On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 9:45 AM, John Hauck wrote:
> Larry:
>
> Maybe I missed it, but Spot also has the capability of tracking your
> progress with periodic updates of your position.
>
> "TRACK PROGRESS: Also known as SPOTcastingSM, this feature allows friends
> and family to follow your progress in real time using your password, or to
> save waypoints so you can review your entire route at a later date."
>
> I have an ACR 406 Microfix. It has internal GPS. It is to be used in
> emergency situations of life and death only. Contact is made with National
> Search and Rescue:
>
> http://www.sarsat.noaa.gov/
>
> I do a lot of ATV and Dirt Bike riding, solo most of the time, in addition
> to flying. It would be nice to have the other capabilities of the Spot
> system, i.e., letting folks know I am ok but having mechanical problems,
> tracking progress, and also contacting 911.
>
> The PLB was about $600.00, but no annual fee and batteries are good for 5
> years.
>
> Spot has annual service fee.
>
> They balance out when it comes to capability and money.
>
> Either one is good to have when you get into a position/situation where you
> need it.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
> Of course if I decide to deviate, then I can send another one. It just
> basically narrows down the search requirements, and makes her feel better.
> Not every one would need it, but here it could be as bad as trying to find
> Fosset if you didn't show up.
> http://www.findmespot.com/en/index.php?cid=1110
> Larry C
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Older Firestar weight |
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Got a friend who has purchased an early model Firestar, 5 rib wing, there is a
447 on it, and he is concerned about total weight as well as weight and balance,
because he is on the chubby side. Searched the archives, and found a plethora
of stuff on Firestar weights, but nothing pertinent to the question. Appreciate
if anybody with any real data can give me some numbers to pass along.
Thanks,
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228870#228870
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> FYI, BigLar (Larry Bourne) has had only intermittent luck with the
> Spot's periodic updates.
>
> -- Robert
Robert:
Is Larry Bourne flying with his Spot?
Might make a difference in reception, whether on the ground or in the air.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
Nope, not unless you call tearing-across-the-desert-in-a-4-wheeler, flying! :-)
On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 9:56 AM, John Hauck wrote:
>
>
>> FYI, BigLar (Larry Bourne) has had only intermittent luck with the
>>
>> Spot's periodic updates.
>> -- Robert
>
>
> Robert:
>
> Is Larry Bourne flying with his Spot?
>
> Might make a difference in reception, whether on the ground or in the air.
>
> john h
> mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Older Firestar weight |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Richard,
My FS1 is on the heavy side as am I. It weighs 362 lb empty and I weigh about 215
with clothing and my FS1 has a ten gallon tank. So, my typical take-off weight,
before I bent it, was about 635-640 lbs and it handles(d) fine with very
good performance with the 447 engine. Hope this is useful data.
--------
Thom Riddle
N1208P RANS S6S, Tailwheel, 912UL
N197BG FS1/447
--------------------
It is by universal misunderstanding that all agree. For if, by ill luck, people
understood each other, they would never agree.
- Charles Baudelaire
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228886#228886
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Laird
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 06, 2009 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: face book
FYI, BigLar (Larry Bourne) has had only intermittent luck with the
Spot's periodic updates. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
My impression is that Spot's software and website is still in beta
mode.
-- Robert
On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 9:45 AM, John Hauck
wrote:
> Larry:
>
> Maybe I missed it, but Spot also has the capability of tracking your
> progress with periodic updates of your position.
>
>========================
===============
The system operates with a GPS, and it tries to send, ( I think) for
an OK about 5 minutes, for the 911 it is much longer. I declined to
purchase the tracking feature even though I had a coupon for the service
for $24.00, I didn't feel it was going to do me any good, or be that
necessary. I agree that it is not perfect, but I will take whatever edge
that I can get. Red Skelton said concerning his wife, " She is a
wonderful gal, but where she spits, the grass don't grow". It doesn't
pay to make mine grumpy either. Another "safety" feature that I am
incorporating is an aircraft base station that we can use to keep in
touch. The nearest facility using a base station is at least 118 miles
away, so I don't anticipate interfering with any one.
Larry C
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Older Firestar weight |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Roughly the same aircraft, 338 lb.
Rick
On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 9:56 AM, Richard Pike wrote:
>
> Got a friend who has purchased an early model Firestar, 5 rib wing, there
> is a 447 on it, and he is concerned about total weight as well as weight and
> balance, because he is on the chubby side. Searched the archives, and found
> a plethora of stuff on Firestar weights, but nothing pertinent to the
> question. Appreciate if anybody with any real data can give me some numbers
> to pass along.
>
> Thanks,
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=228870#228870
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim ODay" <jimoday(at)hotmail.com> |
I have a SPOT unit and I agree the "update" function is "spotty". When it works,
it is pretty cool. The "Check In" message is reliable. Have not needed the
911 message (hope I never do either). I am not 100% satisfied with the operation,
but I still don't fly without it.
I was in Guatemala a week ago and had it with me and it looked to be working but
did not send any messages. :( So much for that.
I bought a RAM mount for the unit and am going to try to mount it up on the greenhouse
roof of my plane and see what happens later today. I have had it on the
dash of my Cessna and it works well there.
I have the following emergency message set up:
"This is an aircraft. Either a Blue/White Twin Engine Cessna or a Red/White small
single engine aircraft. Cindy will know which one- 701-388-0019, 701-241-7637
or 701-293-2088" Flight Service # 800 992-7433"
I never file a flight plan when I go our fun flying because I never know where
I will be going anyway. I figure if I go down and survive, I can push the 911
button to summon help. If I don't survive, I figure the Cindy will check the
SPOT website to narrow down the search to a 10 minute flying area.
Fly safe,
Jim
--------
Jim O'Day
Fargo, ND
Former Firestar II Builder/Pilot
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229084#229084
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Older Firestar weight |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Richard Pike wrote:
> Got a friend who has purchased an early model Firestar, 5 rib wing, there is
a 447 on it, and he is concerned about total weight as well as weight and balance,
because he is on the chubby side. Searched the archives, and found a plethora
of stuff on Firestar weights, but nothing pertinent to the question. Appreciate
if anybody with any real data can give me some numbers to pass along.
>
> Thanks,
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Richard, my Original Firestar is 319lbs empty with a 447 engine. I listed it with
a gross weight of 650lb. Here are some pictures and my weight and balance sheet.
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar 447
N91493 E-AB
22 years flying it
Kolbra 912UL
N20386
almost 1 year flying it
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229142#229142
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/8_20_06_1__952.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/8_20_06_2__234.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/8_20_06_3__157.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/n91493_faa_weight_and_balance_submit_ralph_128.xls
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Aaron Gustafson" <agustafson(at)chartermi.net> |
| Subject: | Kolb list member |
Is Ted Cowan still on the list? My email to him bounced.
Aaron Gustafson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim ODay" <jimoday(at)hotmail.com> |
I flew today and the SPOT worked fine. I mounted it so that it had a clear view
of the sky and it sent position reports as promised every 10 minutes. I attached
a shot of the SPOT web page that shows the tracking.
--------
Jim O'Day
Fargo, ND
Former Firestar II Builder/Pilot
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229284#229284
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/282009_flight_102.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | diode on a starter solenoid |
>You mentioned the need for a diode on the starter solenoid to prevent
>voltage spikes, what specification of diode is used and how is it wired in?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
First I wired my kolb so that when the starter is activated,,,, nothing
else can be on... that way a spike cant do any damage... I do not have a
diode on mine. If anyone wants a quick schematic let me know.
If you want to put on a diode... most any rectifying diodes should work
fine (little black diode about 1/8 inch diameter and just over 1/4 inch
long).... they will have a line that goes around them on one end, if the
end with the line is toward the negative terminal they will conduct. So the
secret is to put the end with the line on it on the positive terminal and
the other end on the negative terminal of the starter solenoid coil... that
way when the power is applied there will be no flow through the diode....
but when the circuit breaks ( you let go of the starter switch) the energy
stored in the electrical coils that normally creates a back flow will be
absorbed in the diode.
If you put it in backwards,,, it will blow the diode or the fuse to the
starting circuit.
The final test,,,, for safety and to eliminate shaking so you can see
better, disconnect the wire going to the starter,,, and touch a positive
wire to the solenoid coil with the other side attached to the neg, ground.
You should hear it click. When you remove the wire[Boyd] it will click
back and you will see a spark when the wire is removed..... after you
install the diode and do the same test the spark should be much much
smaller. That way you will know it is in correctly and working.
Boyd Young
Kolb MKIIIC
Brigham City Ut.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | RE: diode on a starter |
>You mentioned the need for a diode on the starter solenoid to prevent
>voltage spikes, what specification of diode is used and how is it wired in?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
First I wired my kolb so that when the starter is activated,,,, nothing
else can be on... that way a spike cant do any damage... I do not have a
diode on mine. If anyone wants a quick schematic let me know.
If you want to put on a diode... most any rectifying diodes should work
fine (little black diode about 1/8 inch diameter and just over 1/4 inch
long).... they will have a line that goes around them on one end, if the
end with the line is toward the negative terminal they will conduct. So the
secret is to put the end with the line on it on the positive terminal and
the other end on the negative terminal of the starter solenoid coil... that
way when the power is applied there will be no flow through the diode....
but when the circuit breaks ( you let go of the starter switch) the energy
stored in the electrical coils that normally creates a back flow will be
absorbed in the diode.
If you put it in backwards,,, it will blow the diode or the fuse to the
starting circuit.
The final test,,,, for safety and to eliminate shaking so you can see
better, disconnect the wire going to the starter,,, and touch a positive
wire to the solenoid coil with the other side attached to the neg, ground.
You should hear it click. When you remove the wire[Boyd] it will click
back and you will see a spark when the wire is removed..... after you
install the diode and do the same test the spark should be much much
smaller. That way you will know it is in correctly and working.
Boyd Young
Kolb MKIIIC
Brigham City Ut.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: diode on a starter solenoid |
| From: | "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)hughes.net> |
Boyd:
The starter solenoid is not the only thing we need to worry about. The starter
itself produces high voltage spikes through out the plane. Possibly the
diode trick would work on the starter also but I've never tried it. Putting a
diode across any relay's coil is a good idea. The only problem is that when the
diode goes bad, opens up, you don't know it and radio's get zapped. Knowing
this, a diode of at least 1 amp at 600 volts should be used. That's all I've
ever used on my starter solenoids and haven't had any problems.
Rick Lewis
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229311#229311
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | cable adjustments |
- I am about to install the control cables.- How many degrees of "up el
evator" should there be with the stick all the way back?- Also, degrees r
elative to the main fuselage tube, or the horizontal stabilizer?
-
-
-------------------------
------------------ Bill Sullivan
-------------------------
------------------ Windsor Locks, Ct.
-------------------------
------------------ FS 447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: diode on a starter solenoid |
Boyd:
The starter solenoid is not the only thing we need to worry about. The
starter itself produces high voltage spikes through out the plane. Possibly
the diode trick would work on the starter also but I've never tried it.
Putting a diode across any relay's coil is a good idea. The only problem is
that when the diode goes bad, opens up, you don't know it and radio's get
zapped. Knowing this, a diode of at least 1 amp at 600 volts should be
used. That's all I've ever used on my starter solenoids and haven't had any
problems.
Rick Lewis
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Rick
this is how I approached the problem... it seems to be fail safe and easy.
I did not use the diode but I showed it in the diagram to show proper
placement.
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: diode on a starter solenoid |
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
So, Boyd, where does the wine chiller plug in? ;-)
On Mon, Feb 9, 2009 at 10:32 AM, boyd wrote:
>
> Rick
>
> this is how I approached the problem... it seems to be fail safe and
> easy. I did not use the diode but I showed it in the diagram to show
> proper placement.
>
> Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Cable adjustments |
- Boyd- thanks.- I just finished, and 35 degrees up and down was all th
at the linkage allowed.
-
-------------------------
-------------------- Bill Sullivan
-------------------------
-------------------- Windsor Locks,
Ct.
-------------------------
-------------------- FS 447
38 degrees and clear
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: diode on a starter solenoid |
| From: | "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)hughes.net> |
Boyd:
The way you have your system wired is perfect isolation so much so that the
diode is not needed at all to protect the electronics. The diode is however
still needed to protect the starter switch contacts. The contacts can actually
pit without it. Good job, I'll be using your idea in my plane.
Rick Lewis
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229449#229449
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Poly Fiber & pop rivet holes, plus some US Military photos |
Kolb guys,
I have a question regarding the pop rivets on the fabric on the wings.
Is there a proper way to drill the holes? What I mean is, should I drill all the
holes in the ribs FIRST, and then melt the holes through the finished faric,
with a soldering iron? Or, would it be better to do all the fabric, reinforcing
tapes, etc, and then drill through a final layers?
It would seem to me the better way would be to drill all the holes in the ribs
first. The reason I think this is because I can make a nice 90* drilling jig,
to insure the holes are centered on the top of the rib. I'm afraid if I try
to drill the holes after the fabric and tape is on, I run the risk of off-centered
holes...making a lop-sided rivet.
Anybody? Anybody?
Thanks,
Mike Welch
MkIII finally (!!!) putting fabric on flaps. So far, Poly Fiber on ALL tailfeathers,
fuselage, both ailerons, & one flap. One more flap, and then the wings!!
It's about time!!
I just received an email from my step-father, a WW II retired Lt Commander.
He forwarded to me an email of some of the most awesome military photographs
I've ever seen.
(mostly flying photos)
If you want to see them, I absolutely guarantee you'll be amazed, send me an
email, and I'll forward them on to you. They WILL be worth your time, unless
you're a tree hugging hippie!
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_howitworks_022009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Poly Fiber & pop rivet holes, plus some US Military photos |
Drill holes first...then burn through fabric
after tautening...then reinforcement tapes..more
burning...rivets,,,poly brush etc... Herb
At 01:21 PM 2/11/2009, you wrote:
>
>
>Kolb guys,
>
>
> I have a question regarding the pop rivets on the fabric on the wings.
>Is there a proper way to drill the holes? What
>I mean is, should I drill all the holes in the
>ribs FIRST, and then melt the holes through the
>finished faric, with a soldering iron? Or,
>would it be better to do all the fabric,
>reinforcing tapes, etc, and then drill through a final layers?
>
> It would seem to me the better way would be
> to drill all the holes in the ribs first. The
> reason I think this is because I can make a
> nice 90* drilling jig, to insure the holes are
> centered on the top of the rib. I'm afraid if
> I try to drill the holes after the fabric and
> tape is on, I run the risk of off-centered holes...making a lop-sided rivet.
>
> Anybody? Anybody?
>
>Thanks,
>Mike Welch
>MkIII finally (!!!) putting fabric on
>flaps. So far, Poly Fiber on ALL tailfeathers,
>fuselage, both ailerons, & one flap. One more
>flap, and then the wings!! It's about time!!
>
> I just received an email from my step-father, a WW II retired Lt Commander.
>
> He forwarded to me an email of some of the
> most awesome military photographs I've ever seen.
>(mostly flying photos)
>
> If you want to see them, I absolutely
> guarantee you'll be amazed, send me an email,
> and I'll forward them on to you. They WILL be
> worth your time, unless you're a tree hugging hippie!
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
>http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_howitworks_022009
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Poly Fiber & pop rivet holes, plus some US Military photos |
> It would seem to me the better way would be to drill all the holes in
the ribs first. >
> Thanks,
> Mike Welch
That's the way I do it.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Poly Fiber & pop rivet holes, plus some US Military photos |
> Drill holes first...then burn through fabric
> after tautening...then reinforcement tapes..more burning...rivets,,,poly
> brush etc... Herb
Herb:
I burn once.
Put a tick mark beside each rivet hole to help line up after the reinforcing
tape is on.
If hole location is questionable, can use a pick to help locate.
Saves another operation.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | russ kinne <russ(at)rkiphoto.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Poly Fiber & pop rivet holes, plus some US Military photos |
Mike
Those are MY kinda pictures! -- pls send
Thanx
Russ
On Feb 11, 2009, at 2:21 PM, Mike Welch wrote:
>
>
> Kolb guys,
>
>
> I have a question regarding the pop rivets on the fabric on the
> wings.
> Is there a proper way to drill the holes? What I mean is, should I
> drill all the holes in the ribs FIRST, and then melt the holes
> through the finished faric, with a soldering iron? Or, would it be
> better to do all the fabric, reinforcing tapes, etc, and then drill
> through a final layers?
>
> It would seem to me the better way would be to drill all the
> holes in the ribs first. The reason I think this is because I can
> make a nice 90* drilling jig, to insure the holes are centered on
> the top of the rib. I'm afraid if I try to drill the holes after
> the fabric and tape is on, I run the risk of off-centered
> holes...making a lop-sided rivet.
>
> Anybody? Anybody?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike Welch
> MkIII finally (!!!) putting fabric on flaps. So far, Poly Fiber
> on ALL tailfeathers, fuselage, both ailerons, & one flap. One more
> flap, and then the wings!! It's about time!!
>
> I just received an email from my step-father, a WW II retired Lt
> Commander.
>
> He forwarded to me an email of some of the most awesome military
> photographs I've ever seen.
> (mostly flying photos)
>
> If you want to see them, I absolutely guarantee you'll be amazed,
> send me an email, and I'll forward them on to you. They WILL be
> worth your time, unless you're a tree hugging hippie!
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
> http://windowslive.com/howitworks?
> ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_howitworks_022009
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Poly Fiber & pop rivet holes, plus some US Military photos |
| From: | zeprep251(at)aol.com |
You need to be able to get ALL the drillings out of the rib tubes by blowin
g, beating on the the structure lightly to vibrate it or turning it over and
over while doing the above.One little sharp chip will find it's way to a pr
essure point in the fabric and=C2- cut a hole in it.You can find the holes
with a straight pin or do it like John does.The drill can stick in the fabr
ic and wad it up in a knot.Just my 2 cents worth.
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- G.Aman FS2=C2- MK-3
=C2-
-----Original Message-----
From: russ kinne <russ(at)rkiphoto.com>
Sent: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 12:35 pm
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Poly Fiber & pop rivet holes, plus some US Military
photos
=C2-
Mike=C2-
Those are MY kinda pictures! -- pls send=C2-
Thanx=C2-
Russ=C2-
=C2-
On Feb 11, 2009, at 2:21 PM, Mike Welch wrote:=C2-
=C2-
-
>=C2-
>=C2-
> Kolb guys,=C2-
>=C2-
>=C2-
>=C2-
> I have a question regarding the pop rivets on the fabric on the > wings
.=C2-
> Is there a proper way to drill the holes? What I mean is, should I > dr
ill all the holes in the ribs FIRST, and then melt the holes > through the f
inished faric, with a soldering iron? Or, would it be > better to do all th
e fabric, reinforcing tapes, etc, and then drill > through a final layers?
=C2-
>=C2-
> It would seem to me the better way would be to drill all the > holes in
the ribs first. The reason I think this is because I can > make a nice 90*
drilling jig, to insure the holes are centered on > the top of the rib. I'm
afraid if I try to drill the holes after > the fabric and tape is on, I run
the risk of off-centered > holes...making a lop-sided rivet.=C2-
>=C2-
> Anybody? Anybody?=C2-
>=C2-
> Thanks,=C2-
> Mike Welch=C2-
> MkIII finally (!!!) putting fabric on flaps. So far, Poly Fiber > on ALL
tailfeathers, fuselage, both ailerons, & one flap. One more > flap, and th
en the wings!! It's about time!!=C2-
>=C2-
> I just received an email from my step-father, a WW II retired Lt > Comma
nder.=C2-
>=C2-
> He forwarded to me an email of some of the most awesome military > photo
graphs I've ever seen.=C2-
> (mostly flying photos)=C2-
>=C2-
> If you want to see them, I absolutely guarantee you'll be amazed, > send
me an email, and I'll forward them on to you. They WILL be > worth your ti
me, unless you're a tree hugging hippie!=C2-
>=C2-
>=C2-
>=C2-
> _________________________________________________________________=C2-
> Windows Liv
e=84=A2: Keep your life in sync.=C2-
> http://windowslive.com/howitworks?> ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_howitwork
s_022009=C2-
>=C2-
>=C2-
>=C2-
>=C2-
=C2-
=C2-
============C2-
============C2-
============C2-
===========C2-
=C2-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | russ kinne <russ(at)rkiphoto.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Poly Fiber & pop rivet holes, plus some US Military photos |
I assume everybody knows about greasing the drill bit to capture
chips --
On Feb 11, 2009, at 5:31 PM, zeprep251(at)aol.com wrote:
> You need to be able to get ALL the drillings out of the rib tubes
> by blowing, beating on the the structure lightly to vibrate it or
> turning it over and over while doing the above.One little sharp
> chip will find it's way to a pressure point in the fabric and cut
> a hole in it.You can find the holes with a straight pin or do it
> like John does.The drill can stick in the fabric and wad it up in a
> knot.Just my 2 cents worth.
> G.Aman
> FS2 MK-3
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Unbelievable Military Photos |
Kolb list=2C
I generally try NOT to post non-Kolb items on this list. Although I have
received a few off-list requests to see these military photos=2C I decided
to share them with everyone.
If you take offense=2C sorry. I'll feel really rotten at your scolding.
Trust me on that.
If you've been in the military=2C some of these will=2C no doubt=2C bring
back some fond memories. At the very least=2C
we should be proud of those who are (and have) protecting our freedoms.
Mike Welch
MkIII
PS. I've got TWO boys (in their 30's) in Afghanistan. I especially like t
he saying at the bottom of the list of photos.
"If you can read this...thank a TEACHER. If you can read this in English..
..thank the Military. hoo rah!
Unbelievable photos...click on all 3 (one at a time)
These are great shots. Would have liked to be the photographer.
http://www.tom-phillips.info/images/cool.pics.military.htm
http://www.tom-phillips.info/images/cool.pics.military.2.htm
http://www.tom-phillips.info/images/cool.pics.military.3.htm
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live=99: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_howitworks_0
22009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Poly Fiber & pop rivet holes, plus some US Military photos |
Russ:
Yes, that works good in other situations.
When working with fabric, the last thing you want around it is grease. Mig
ht have a hard time getting the grease cleaned up prior to fabric applicati
on.
john h
mkIII
I assume everybody knows about greasing the drill bit to capture chips --
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Kmet" <jlsk1(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Poly Fiber & pop rivet holes, plus some US Military photos |
Mike, drill your holes 1st!!Use a string going across the tops & mark them ,
from root to tip, so they are all in a "Pretty-Pretty" line. Then drill them
all with your 90 degree jig you mentioned. After drilling, blow out all the
rib tubing with a compressor. Then stuff a tiny piece of fabric in each tube
that you drilled, so that when you pull a rivet, if that little ball of the
rivet falls off in the tube, it won`t find its way into the interior of the
wing. If any shavings or rivet tips get into the wing, they will find
somewhere comfortable to rest, & each time you fly, tiny vibrations will
cause them to wear through the fabric from the inside out.
Jim Kmet
MK-3C
Soon to be flying with a 912.
Cookeville, TN
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Welch" <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 11:21 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Poly Fiber & pop rivet holes, plus some US Military
photos
>
>
> Kolb guys,
>
>
> I have a question regarding the pop rivets on the fabric on the wings.
> Is there a proper way to drill the holes? What I mean is, should I drill
> all the holes in the ribs FIRST, and then melt the holes through the
> finished faric, with a soldering iron? Or, would it be better to do all
> the fabric, reinforcing tapes, etc, and then drill through a final layers?
>
> It would seem to me the better way would be to drill all the holes in the
> ribs first. The reason I think this is because I can make a nice 90*
> drilling jig, to insure the holes are centered on the top of the rib. I'm
> afraid if I try to drill the holes after the fabric and tape is on, I run
> the risk of off-centered holes...making a lop-sided rivet.
>
> Anybody? Anybody?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike Welch
> MkIII finally (!!!) putting fabric on flaps. So far, Poly Fiber on ALL
> tailfeathers, fuselage, both ailerons, & one flap. One more flap, and
> then the wings!! It's about time!!
>
> I just received an email from my step-father, a WW II retired Lt
> Commander.
>
> He forwarded to me an email of some of the most awesome military
> photographs I've ever seen.
> (mostly flying photos)
>
> If you want to see them, I absolutely guarantee you'll be amazed, send me
> an email, and I'll forward them on to you. They WILL be worth your time,
> unless you're a tree hugging hippie!
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
> http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_howitworks_022009
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Poly Fiber & pop rivet holes, plus some US Military photos |
| From: | "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)hughes.net> |
I am attaching two pictures of how Brian, at Kolb factory, handles the loose pieces
that may remain in the tubes. He probably blows the tubes out first then
he seals all the ends as show in the pictures. Silicone rubber would probably
be good to use here.
Rick Lewis
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=229897#229897
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/kolbs_yellow_planes_consturction_079_204.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/kolbs_yellow_planes_consturction_078_181.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
Group=2C
My apologies for another un-Kolb post=2C but I have had a few people ask
for the photos to be forwarded to them=2C by returning the Kolb list email
to me.
If you guys would check to very bottom of that email entitled "Unbelievab
le Military Photos" I sent=2C you will see the three links to the photos.
As you were.
Mike Welch
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live=99: E-mail. Chat. Share. Get more ways to connect.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_allup_explore_022009
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Poly Fiber & pop rivet holes, plus some US Military photos |
| From: | "Kirby, Dennis CTR USAF AFMC MDA/AL" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
<< I have a question regarding the pop rivets on the fabric on the
wings...
Anybody? Anybody? Thanks, Mike Welch >>
Mike -
At the recommendation of a few fellow Kolbers, I rib stitched my wing
fabric, and am very pleased with the outcome. The bump from a stitch of
twine is much smaller beneath the finishing tape than the bump from a
rivet. Plus, I like to think replacing the fabric will be easier, if I
ever have to do it.
Have you considered rib stitching?
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, 912ul, "Magic Bike"
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Poly Fiber & pop rivet holes, plus some US Military |
photos
If it was me, I'd go with the Polyfiber Installation Manual for covering, a
ttachment, and finishing.
I believe rib stitching was to be used with wooden ribs with flat rib caps
, not round aluminum tubing.
I have seen several Kolbs that were rib stitched that did have stitching br
eak or pull loose on top, rear, inboard section of wings. When this happen
s, fabric ballons up creating some serious vibration problems.
Unfortunately, I have had to recover several of my wings, and helped remove
fabric from other Kolb wings. Removing the soft aluminum fabric rivets wa
s not a problem.
john h
mkIII
At the recommendation of a few fellow Kolbers, I rib stitched my wing fab
ric, and am very pleased with the outcome. The bump from a stitch of twine
is much smaller beneath the finishing tape than the bump from a rivet. Pl
us, I like to think replacing the fabric will be easier, if I ever have to
do it.
Have you considered rib stitching?
Dennis Kirby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com> |
I am thinking about a new battery. The one that came with the plane when I bought
it has a (overflow?) drain on the side of it and has made a mess. I suppose
I could try to catch what comes out but I don't know what with or how secure
I could make it.
Saw this battery on aircraft spruce, but it's a little pricey isn't it?
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/gellcellbatt.php
A fellow airport bum who is rebuilding a wrecked Titan bought a 12 volt 26 amp
sealed acid battery from Interstate Batteries store.
Could I go with that or should I spend the extra for the gell cell? Or perhaps
I could keep using the one I have... just keep it from making a mess somehow?
--------
Cristal Waters
Kolb Mark II Twinstar
Rotax 503 DCSI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230051#230051
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
Cristal --
I recently got a new Odyssey PC680 Battery for my MkIII from Quality
Power for about $120... it's got more than twice the cranking amps as
the Centennial, and is smaller.
But regardless of which you buy, definitely dump the old, spillable
battery and get a gel cell battery!!! And, yes, they are more
expensive than sealed lead-acid, but you get what you pay for.
-- Robert
On Thu, Feb 12, 2009 at 10:09 PM, cristalclear13
wrote:
>
> I am thinking about a new battery. The one that came with the plane when I bought
it has a (overflow?) drain on the side of it and has made a mess. I suppose
I could try to catch what comes out but I don't know what with or how secure
I could make it.
>
> Saw this battery on aircraft spruce, but it's a little pricey isn't it?
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/gellcellbatt.php
>
> A fellow airport bum who is rebuilding a wrecked Titan bought a 12 volt 26 amp
sealed acid battery from Interstate Batteries store.
> Could I go with that or should I spend the extra for the gell cell? Or perhaps
I could keep using the one I have... just keep it from making a mess somehow?
>
> --------
> Cristal Waters
> Kolb Mark II Twinstar
> Rotax 503 DCSI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230051#230051
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> Saw this battery on aircraft spruce, but it's a little pricey isn't it?
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/gellcellbatt.php
> --------
> Cristal Waters
This one from Aircraft Spruce will get the job done.
BATTERY 18 AMP SEALED BT021 $56.25
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/powersonic.php
I use a 545 Odyessey 15 Amp with the 912uls. Shouldn't have any problem
turning the 503 with 18 amp.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks for the advice Robert and John. I appreciate it. :)
--------
Cristal Waters
Kolb Mark II Twinstar
Rotax 503 DCSI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230063#230063
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos" <grageda(at)innw.net> |
Hi Cristalclear,
What did you do to resolve your fabric/tube problem? Did you repair it or
did you do a complete recover?
Just curious...
Carlos G.
----- Original Message -----
From: "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 9:27 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: gel battery
>
>
> Thanks for the advice Robert and John. I appreciate it. :)
>
> --------
> Cristal Waters
> Kolb Mark II Twinstar
> Rotax 503 DCSI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230063#230063
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Cristal, et al, You do not want a gel cell. What you want to get may be
known variously as an Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM), Starved Lead Acid (SLA), or
Recombinant Gas Battery (RGB). It doesn't matter which of the three names
you use, they're all the same. A gel cell is something completely different.
It's more expensive and inferior in all aspects of battery performance to
the AGM, SLA, RGB batteries.
Rick
On Thu, Feb 12, 2009 at 10:44 PM, John Hauck wrote:
>
>
> > Saw this battery on aircraft spruce, but it's a little pricey isn't it?
>
>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/gellcellbatt.php
>>
> > --------
>
>> Cristal Waters
>>
>
>
> This one from Aircraft Spruce will get the job done.
>
> BATTERY 18 AMP SEALED BT021 $56.25
>
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/powersonic.php
>
>
> I use a 545 Odyessey 15 Amp with the 912uls. Shouldn't have any problem
> turning the 503 with 18 amp.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
Cristal
Kind of interesting some of the advise we get. You get what you pay for.
It's like money in the bank. Or my personal favorite... cheep is $49 a year.
If you don't have unlimited funds the best advice is, Pay extra for NEEDED
features, quality is always good but don't pay for marketing hype.
What is your battery for? If it fails it is nothing that will kill you or
cause a forced landing, so why does it need to be aircraft grade or
expensive. Yes I know freak things can happen but they can happen to the
expensive stuff too.
I use the lightest battery I can find. Light planes fly better than heavy.
Besides I put enough weight in the pilot's seat I don't need any more
ballast. I use a 12 volt 12 amp riding lawn mower battery. The greater the
amp rating the heaver they are. Why not use just enough to start your
engine? I have tried the more expensive brands and they don't seem to last
any longer than the cheep ones so Wal-Mart brands are my batteries of
choice. My batteries get stressed pretty bad so initially they didn't last
more than a few years. About 6 years ago I started hooking a battery
maintainer to the battery between every flight and more importantly all
winter. The last battery was four years old and still going strong but I
didn't want to risk getting stranded at Oshkosh so I bought a new one. After
all it didn't cost much. If you have a expensive battery would you tend to
keep it till it let you down?
My battery is a wet cell so I have a vent line that extends out the bottom
of the fuselage. I never noticed any mess. All wet cells need to be vented
outside anyway due to their corrosive and explosive gasses.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC (the plane is in Michigan while I'm in Florida for
the winter)
----- Original Message -----
From: "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 11:09 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: gel battery
>
>
> I am thinking about a new battery. The one that came with the plane when
> I bought it has a (overflow?) drain on the side of it and has made a mess.
> I suppose I could try to catch what comes out but I don't know what with
> or how secure I could make it.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
I am thinking about a new battery. The one that came with the plane when I
bought it has a (overflow?) drain on the side of it and has made a mess. I
suppose I could try to catch what comes out but I don't know what with or
how secure I could make it.
Cristal Waters
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Cristal
This is the type of battery I use in my MKIII to start my 912
http://www.arizonabattery.com/?page=shop/flypage&product_id=58&category_id=b
291dca6cea297f2a41f49052a63d38d&
If the link does not work go to http://www.arizonabattery.com and search
all batteries, pick 12 volts and scroll down it is a 18 amp hour. And
has a better price than the one you had found.
I have ordered from Arizona battery before and the product is on your door
in3 or 4 days.
Then if you are not in a hurry,,, the last one I ordered was from harbor
freight as a replacement battery for one of their jump starts. Seems like
the cost was around 18 dollars and 4 or 5 dollars for freight so I ordered
2 and the freight remained the same.... now the not being in a hurry bit,
it took 4 or 5 months, and I am nearly sure it was put on a container ship
from china.
Boyd young
Kolb MKIIIC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Richard, I vote for cheap, too. The new 20 AH AGM battery I bought for the
trike last year was $38 from the local battery shop. It starts the HKS with
its 11.3 to 1 compression ratio like a champ. My buddie Wayne has the
Oddysey 680 in his LongEZ with a 200 horse IO-360. Vrooom.
Rick
On Fri, Feb 13, 2009 at 9:53 AM, Richard & Martha Neilsen <
NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> wrote:
> NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net>
>
> Cristal
>
> Kind of interesting some of the advise we get. You get what you pay for.
> It's like money in the bank. Or my personal favorite... cheep is $49 a year.
> If you don't have unlimited funds the best advice is, Pay extra for NEEDED
> features, quality is always good but don't pay for marketing hype.
>
> What is your battery for? If it fails it is nothing that will kill you or
> cause a forced landing, so why does it need to be aircraft grade or
> expensive. Yes I know freak things can happen but they can happen to the
> expensive stuff too.
>
> I use the lightest battery I can find. Light planes fly better than heavy.
> Besides I put enough weight in the pilot's seat I don't need any more
> ballast. I use a 12 volt 12 amp riding lawn mower battery. The greater the
> amp rating the heaver they are. Why not use just enough to start your
> engine? I have tried the more expensive brands and they don't seem to last
> any longer than the cheep ones so Wal-Mart brands are my batteries of
> choice. My batteries get stressed pretty bad so initially they didn't last
> more than a few years. About 6 years ago I started hooking a battery
> maintainer to the battery between every flight and more importantly all
> winter. The last battery was four years old and still going strong but I
> didn't want to risk getting stranded at Oshkosh so I bought a new one. After
> all it didn't cost much. If you have a expensive battery would you tend to
> keep it till it let you down?
>
> My battery is a wet cell so I have a vent line that extends out the bottom
> of the fuselage. I never noticed any mess. All wet cells need to be vented
> outside anyway due to their corrosive and explosive gasses.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered MKIIIC (the plane is in Michigan while I'm in Florida
> for the winter)
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "cristalclear13" <
> cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 11:09 PM
> Subject: Kolb-List: gel battery
>
>
>> cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com>
>>
>> I am thinking about a new battery. The one that came with the plane when
>> I bought it has a (overflow?) drain on the side of it and has made a mess. I
>> suppose I could try to catch what comes out but I don't know what with or
>> how secure I could make it.
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | A better gas can |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Awhile back Grant, I think it was Grant, anyway, asked about better and
easier ways to fuel his Kolb. I wrote the attached article for EAA Chapter
88's newsletter over the last few days and did the testing this morning so I
could wrap it up.
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A better gas can |
Rick:
Good idea!
I do mine a little bit simpler. Drill a hole to vent. Plug it with a golf
tee when not in use. Been working for years with no problem. Got the ide
a from the Walmart 6 gal water cans that vent using a similar method.
As far as refueling, I use a 6' length of 7/8' OD X 3/4' ID clear vinyl tub
ing. Get it at the local hardware store. One end is pushed on the spout a
nd the other is stuck into the fuel tanked opening. I can stand off, lift
the tank higher than the tank inlet, and let'er pour. I'm still able to ho
ld 5 gal of gas over my head, but it ain't as easy as it used to be. When
I get to the point I can't handle 5 gal, then I'll start using 2.5 gal gans
. If it gets bad enough, guess I could go with 1 gal cans. ;-) I also us
e a short piece of 3/4' aluminum tubing shoved in one end of the tube. Whe
n I am finished refueling, I roll it up and stick the other end of the tube
on the aluminum tube to keep out contamination. I also take this "Alabama
Credit Card" with me on cross country flights, should I have an opportunit
y to buy cheap gas and refuel from a 5 gal can.
john h
mkIII
Awhile back Grant, I think it was Grant, anyway, asked about better and e
asier ways to fuel his Kolb. I wrote the attached article for EAA Chapter 8
8's newsletter over the last few days and did the testing this morning so I
could wrap it up.
Rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A better gas can |
John, I use about the same method but leave the vinyl tubing on the
can. I plug it with one
of those synthetic wine bottle corks and poke it through the handle
when finished.
BB
On 13, Feb 2009, at 12:24 PM, John Hauck wrote:
> Rick:
>
> Good idea!
>
> I do mine a little bit simpler. Drill a hole to vent. Plug it
> with a golf tee when not in use. Been working for years with no
> problem. Got the idea from the Walmart 6 gal water cans that vent
> using a similar method.
>
> As far as refueling, I use a 6' length of 7/8' OD X 3/4' ID clear
> vinyl tubing. Get it at the local hardware store. One end is
> pushed on the spout and the other is stuck into the fuel tanked
> opening. I can stand off, lift the tank higher than the tank
> inlet, and let'er pour. I'm still able to hold 5 gal of gas over
> my head, but it ain't as easy as it used to be. When I get to the
> point I can't handle 5 gal, then I'll start using 2.5 gal gans. If
> it gets bad enough, guess I could go with 1 gal cans. ;-) I also
> use a short piece of 3/4' aluminum tubing shoved in one end of the
> tube. When I am finished refueling, I roll it up and stick the
> other end of the tube on the aluminum tube to keep out
> contamination. I also take this "Alabama Credit Card" with me on
> cross country flights, should I have an opportunity to buy cheap
> gas and refuel from a 5 gal can.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
> Awhile back Grant, I think it was Grant, anyway, asked about better
> and easier ways to fuel his Kolb. I wrote the attached article for
> EAA Chapter 88's newsletter over the last few days and did the
> testing this morning so I could wrap it up.
>
> Rick
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
>
>I am thinking about a new battery. The one that came with the plane when I bought
it has a (overflow?) drain on the side of it and has made a mess. I suppose
I could try to catch what comes out but I don't know what with or how secure
I could make it.
>
>Saw this battery on aircraft spruce, but it's a little pricey isn't it?
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/gellcellbatt.php
>
>A fellow airport bum who is rebuilding a wrecked Titan bought a 12 volt 26 amp
sealed acid battery from Interstate Batteries store.
>Could I go with that or should I spend the extra for the gell cell? Or perhaps
I could keep using the one I have... just keep it from making a mess somehow?
>
>--------
>Cristal Waters
>Kolb Mark II Twinstar
>Rotax 503 DCSI
>
Cristal,
Due to weight constraints, I use an ULTRASTART-RED BATTERY - 11-00375 -
$89.95 from http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/atphighpwr.php. It
weighs 4.4 pounds. I am on my second battery. See below - sent to the List
July 5, 2008.
To get by with such a small battery, I always prime the engine, and pull the
propeller through two compressions to move the charge into the case and
cylinder. Then I rotate the propeller backwards against compression to give
the starter a full run against compression in the forward direction. This
approach minimizes battery current capacity. In my case the Victor 1+ never
fails to hit on the first time over. The only time it will fail to remain
running is if I remove the choker too soon.
FWIW
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
--------------------------------------------------
Kolbers,
No July fourth flyby this year. A couple months ago I had trouble getting
the engine started after the FireFly had set in the hangar for a couple of
weeks. I put a trickle charger on the battery to bet the engine started.
When I got home I ordered a new ultrastart-red battery. To keep flying I
connected the trickle charger to the battery to keep it topped off while it
was in the hangar. The battery was back ordered and it came two days ago.
I did not bother to install it as I had been having no trouble with
starting the engine. But yesterday, the battery died, and so I did not get
to make my flyby.
I checked out my log. The battery started the engine for 467 flights over a
period of six years and two months. At current battery cost, it figures out
to 21 cents per flight to keep from pulling a rope or hand propping.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb history |
| From: | "N111KX (Kip)" <n111kx(at)mindspring.com> |
Dennis, do you recall the last FS cage serial numbers out of Phoenixville? I am
curious as mine is FS-705 delivered around Jan, 1999. I have wondered if it was
one of the last.
Regards,
Kip
--------
Kip
Firestar II, N111KX
Waiex, N111YX
Quickie 1, N111QX
Atlanta
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230171#230171
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb history |
| From: | zeprep251(at)aol.com |
Kip,
? Ordered my FS in Dec 1998,it came from Phoenixville,in January of 1999,F-1274
stamped on the rear of the motor support tube.
??????? G.Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: N111KX (Kip) <n111kx(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 4:54 pm
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb history
Dennis, do you recall the last FS cage serial numbers out of Phoenixville? I am
curious as mine is FS-705 delivered around Jan, 1999. I have wondered if it was
one of the last.
Regards,
Kip
--------
Kip
Firestar II, N111KX
Waiex, N111YX
Quickie 1, N111QX
Atlanta
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230171#230171
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net> |
- Scott- I have two sets of mid '80's Firestar wings, and both sets have
the rivets as shown.- They go from the root rib to the first rib, top and
bottom, spaced 3 inches apart.- Mine are 5 rib wings.- The rivets are
1/8" stainless.-
-
-------------------------
----------------- Bill Sullivan
-------------------------
----------------- Windsor Locks, Ct.
-------------------------
----------------- FS 447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: M3X drag strut |
> If it's not required anyone care to speculate on
> strength gained, or lost buy drilling a bunch of holes thru an otherwise
> sound piece of tubing? Thanks,
>
> --------
> Scott
Scott:
This procedure, for making up the drag struts, has been used since Ultrastar
days.
My guess would be to give it a little more strength to keep it in column by
tying all the tubes together.
I don't know what your plans and instructions look at, but understand they
are about as good as the Kolbra instructions. If so, the spacing is 3" on
each side, top and bottom, alternating the rivet holes.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AGM Battery & charger info |
battery & charger info:
>
>
>
>> Is a special charger needed for AGM batteries such as the Odyssey? At
>> www.odyessy.com <http://www.odyessy.com/> they recommend two types,
>> but I?m wondering why something like a Schumacher
>> http://store.schumachermart.com/se-1010-2.html won?t work just as well.
>
> ALL battery technologies benefit from the use of
> "smart" battery chargers that offer charge, top-off
> and maintenance cycles. The charger you cited
> doesn't cite this feature.
>
> A really nice, low cost Schumacher product sold
> at Wallmart is the 1562 series critters cited in
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Batteries/Multiple_Battery_Myths_A.pdf
>
>
> and illustrated here:
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/Schumacher_Chargers/1562.jpg
>
>
> Schumacher makes a range of smart chargers identifiable
> by the word "maintainer" in their descriptions. These
> include the SC600, SC1000, SC1200, etc.
>
> The idea that one should finely tune a plug-in-the-wall
> battery charger to the brand/technology of the battery
> is not supported by the way we charge batteries in our
> vehicles and expect years of service life.
>
> Consider also a variety of small battery charger/maintainers
> like:
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/Battery_Minder/
>
> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/Battery_Tender_Jr/Battery_Tender-Junior.jpeg
>
>
> Bob . . .
>
> ----------------------------------------)
> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
> ( appearance of being right . . . )
> ( )
> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
> ----------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)pa.net> |
Hi Scott,
John's guess is correct: Riveting the two tubes together makes them
stronger: It makes them stronger in compression and bending. Your concern
about the holes weakening the tubes would be correct only if exceedingly
high tension loads were imposed - but this is not the case for their
application here.
Dennis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hauck
Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2009 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: M3X drag strut
> If it's not required anyone care to speculate on
> strength gained, or lost buy drilling a bunch of holes thru an otherwise
> sound piece of tubing? Thanks,
>
> --------
> Scott
Scott:
This procedure, for making up the drag struts, has been used since Ultrastar
days.
My guess would be to give it a little more strength to keep it in column by
tying all the tubes together.
I don't know what your plans and instructions look at, but understand they
are about as good as the Kolbra instructions. If so, the spacing is 3" on
each side, top and bottom, alternating the rivet holes.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: M3X drag strut/MV 2009 |
> John's guess is correct: Riveting the two tubes together makes them
> stronger:
>
> Dennis
Thanks for the reply, Dennis:
While I have your attention, Monument Valley will be here before you know
it, 15-17 May 2009. You are cordially invited to join us for our 7th
Annual Unplanned/Unorganized Kolb Flyin, Monument Valley, Utah.
I don't know about you all, but I am going to dedicate this year's flyin to
John W. He was one of the charter members, having attended everyone since
we started in 2003. I know he looked forward to it and enjoyed it as much
or more than I do.
Brother Jim is up at Homer Kolb's visiting. I got a chance to remind Homer
about MV. He wants to come out and join us this year. If he can make it,
he and Clara will be there. I know a lot of you have met Homer, but a lot
of our western friends have not. If Homer makes it, this would be a great
time to share our passion of flying his airplanes. If Dennis could make it,
it would be doubly so.
john h
mkIII - Fogged in at hauck's holler, alabama.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: M3X drag strut |
>
>If it's not required anyone care to speculate on
>strength gained, or lost buy drilling a bunch of holes thru an otherwise sound
piece of tubing? Thanks,
>
>--------
Scott,
It is a design solution. Drag struts are loaded in compression. If you
design to the compressive load times a safety factor, the material cross
sectional area will be quite small. If you used a solid rod of this cross
sectional area or even a thin walled tube, the material would fail by
buckling when placed under the design load. The only way to reduce this
tendency is to increase the outside diameter of the drag strut. But if one
does, you end up with much more cross sectional area to handle the
compressive loads and unnecessary weight. The more efficient weight wise
way to do it is to use a thin wall tube of the correct cross sectional area
to handle the compressive loads. Then add over it another larger OD thin
wall tube to handle the buckling component.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | A better gas can |
Awhile back Grant, I think it was Grant, anyway, asked about better and
easier ways to fuel his Kolb. I wrote the attached article for EAA Chapter
88's newsletter over the last few days and did the testing this morning so I
could wrap it up.
Rick
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Rick
I am sure your idea made a great difference.. BUT there is an easier
way... if you put the long extension on the self venting fuel can, ( say
a 3 to 4 footer) then place the extension in your plane's tank, lift your
portable tank higher than the one in the plane and start pouring. About
the time the tank starts to show a vacuum, loosen the big nut holding the
spout on just a bit. The vacuum in the tank will pull air in from the
loose fitting and you wont spill any on the ground, remember you will have
to tighten the large nut a bit as the tank is about empty, you can tell when
to do this by the sound of the air bubbles going into the portable tank
Boyd
Ps if you really like the jb weld idea------- I would screw the fitting
into the tank, then remove it and put the jb on the fitting, then screw it
in again,,, this way putting the jb weld in the threads and under the
flange.
My $0.02 worth..
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb history |
| From: | "N111KX (Kip)" <n111kx(at)mindspring.com> |
G.Aman, I was thinking of the aircraft serial number which was FS-705. The stamped
cage number is 12XX as I recall. I'll have to note it next time I am at the
airport...
Kip
--------
Kip
Firestar II, N111KX
Waiex, N111YX
Quickie 1, N111QX
Atlanta
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230257#230257
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: M3X drag strut |
| From: | "cspoke" <cspoke(at)gulftel.com> |
Scott,
I discovered the same thing as you. The manual does not address the drag strut
rivets but I also noticed them on the Kolb demo plane. I searched and eventually
did find the reference to them on page 6 of the large two page folded plan
drawings. I ended up using these sheets for the majority of my building. Let
me know if you do not have this sheet and I can send it to you. It specifies the
spacing etc...
--------
Craig Spoke
Mk 111 Xtra VW (in the works)
Lillian, AL
cspoke(at)gulftel.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230266#230266
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AGM Battery & charger info |
Charlie
Great information.
The battery maintainer I have on my airplane is the unit you mentioned.
http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/Schumacher_Chargers/1562.jpg
It has a adapter that I attach permanently to my battery with a keyed plug
that allows quick easy attachment without having to worry that it is
connected backwards. I notice when I attach the charger to the plane it will
go into charging mode even after a long flight. When I taxi back to my
hanger the planes charging system goes into discharge due to low RPMs. I
think I can detect a slightly increased power level after being hooked to
the battery maintainer than without. Any way after multiple batteries with
and without the battery maintainer the batteries last longer when kept on
the maintainer. The biggest longevity improvement is likely from attaching
the battery through the 3-4 months in the winter when the plane doesn't fly.
For the rest of my vehicles (cars, boat and tractor) that are left in
storage for some times 9 months at a time I have had very good luck
attaching a float charger. I used to disconnect the batteries but now I just
connect the float charger. Yes I fog the engines and change the oil. The
float chargers I use are:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42292
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie England" <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 14, 2009 10:14 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: AGM Battery & charger info
>
> battery & charger info:
>>
>>
>>
>>> Is a special charger needed for AGM batteries such as the Odyssey? At
>>> www.odyessy.com <http://www.odyessy.com/> they recommend two types, but
>>> I?m wondering why something like a Schumacher
>>> http://store.schumachermart.com/se-1010-2.html won?t work just as well.
>>
>> ALL battery technologies benefit from the use of
>> "smart" battery chargers that offer charge, top-off
>> and maintenance cycles. The charger you cited
>> doesn't cite this feature.
>>
>> A really nice, low cost Schumacher product sold
>> at Wallmart is the 1562 series critters cited in
>>
>> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Batteries/Multiple_Battery_Myths_A.pdf
>>
>> and illustrated here:
>>
>> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/Schumacher_Chargers/1562.jpg
>>
>> Schumacher makes a range of smart chargers identifiable
>> by the word "maintainer" in their descriptions. These
>> include the SC600, SC1000, SC1200, etc.
>>
>> The idea that one should finely tune a plug-in-the-wall
>> battery charger to the brand/technology of the battery
>> is not supported by the way we charge batteries in our
>> vehicles and expect years of service life.
>>
>> Consider also a variety of small battery charger/maintainers
>> like:
>>
>> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/Battery_Minder/
>>
>> http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Battery_Chargers/Battery_Tender_Jr/Battery_Tender-Junior.jpeg
>>
>> Bob . . .
>>
>> ----------------------------------------)
>> ( . . . a long habit of not thinking )
>> ( a thing wrong, gives it a superficial )
>> ( appearance of being right . . . )
>> ( )
>> ( -Thomas Paine 1776- )
>> ----------------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb history |
| From: | zeprep251(at)aol.com |
Kip,
? I really missed it this time.I recorded the F1274 as the serial no.on all the
paperwork for the registration process.Does Kolb include a serial no. on any
of the paperwork I received with the kit?
????????? Thanks G. Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: N111KX (Kip) <n111kx(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 12:58 pm
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb history
G.Aman, I was thinking of the aircraft serial number which was FS-705. The
stamped cage number is 12XX as I recall. I'll have to note it next time I am at
the airport...
Kip
--------
Kip
Firestar II, N111KX
Waiex, N111YX
Quickie 1, N111QX
Atlanta
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230257#230257
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb history |
Serial numbers for experimental aircraft are arbitrary. You can use
anything you want but
it would be best to check FAA records to see if you are using a
duplicate.
My MkIII is M1060 which was created from an unused gap in a common
sequence of pre-existing numbers.
The only place you will find it on the plane is the dataplate.
BB
On 15, Feb 2009, at 11:58 AM, zeprep251(at)aol.com wrote:
> Kip,
> I really missed it this time.I recorded the F1274 as the serial
> no.on all the paperwork for the registration process.Does Kolb
> include a serial no. on any of the paperwork I received with the kit?
> Thanks G. Aman
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: N111KX (Kip) <n111kx(at)mindspring.com>
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 12:58 pm
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb history
>
>
>
>
> G.Aman, I was thinking of the aircraft serial number which was
> FS-705. The
>
> stamped cage number is 12XX as I recall. I'll have to note it next
> time I am at
>
> the airport...
>
> Kip
>
>
> --------
>
> Kip
>
> Firestar II, N111KX
>
> Waiex, N111YX
>
> Quickie 1, N111QX
>
> Atlanta
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230257#230257
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb history |
Bob:
Mine is M3-011, number 11 off the line.
And you are correct. There is no other serial number on my airframe except
what I engraved on the data plate.
john h
mkIII
My MkIII is M1060 which was created from an unused gap in a common seque
nce of pre-existing numbers.
The only place you will find it on the plane is the dataplate.
BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Valentines Day Flight |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Guys and ladies, here are a few pics taking my Valentine for a flight.
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar 447
N91493 E-AB
22 years flying it
Kolbra 912UL
N20386
almost 1 year flying it
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230374#230374
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/out_the_windshield__214.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/snowmobile_races__168.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/over_dam__362.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/laurie_in_back_seat_2__212.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/kolbra_ready_for_flight__679.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Valentines Day Flight |
> Guys and ladies, here are a few pics taking my Valentine for a flight.
>
> Ralph
Ralph:
Looks good to me!
How are you keeping the 80 horse temps up in the icy part of the country?
john h]
mkIII - T-Shirt weather at hauck's holler.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Valentines Day Flight |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
John Hauck
> Ralph:
>
> Looks good to me!
>
> How are you keeping the 80 horse temps up in the icy part of the country?
>
> john h]
> mkIII - T-Shirt weather at hauck's holler.
John and others,
I taped off the front of the radiator and half of the oil cooler with 3M non-residue
duct tape. It was 9F at 2000' and the oil temp was too low at 157F. Last
weekend I flew around the cities and it was 185F when it was 30F OAT.
There is also something else I noticed: Before flying (cold engine), I turned the
prop and I noticed a few drops of coolant dripping out the bottom of the engine.
Once the 912 warms up, it goes away. There is another 912 owner that notices
the same thing. This only happens on cold winter days. Does anyone know if
this is problem with the water pump? The engine only has a little over 300 hours
on it, but it's an early 912.
Ralph B
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar 447
N91493 E-AB
22 years flying it
Kolbra 912UL
N20386
almost 1 year flying it
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230401#230401
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb history |
| From: | "N111KX (Kip)" <n111kx(at)mindspring.com> |
On my bill of sale, and confirmed by the nice lady on the phone at Kolb aircraft
(Mrs. Kolb?) in 1998 the serial # is FS-705 with the cage number being different...
Kip
--------
Kip
Firestar II, N111KX
Waiex, N111YX
Quickie 1, N111QX
Atlanta
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230427#230427
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Valentines Day Flight |
| From: | "N111KX (Kip)" <n111kx(at)mindspring.com> |
A real trooper of a lady there... :)
--------
Kip
Firestar II, N111KX
Waiex, N111YX
Quickie 1, N111QX
Atlanta
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230434#230434
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "boyd" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Valentines Day Flight |
I taped off the front of the radiator and half of the oil cooler with 3M
non-residue duct tape. It was 9F at 2000' and the oil temp was too low at
157F. Last weekend I flew around the cities and it was 185F when it was 30F
OAT.
There is also something else I noticed: Before flying (cold engine), I
turned the prop and I noticed a few drops of coolant dripping out the bottom
of the engine.
Ralph B
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Ralph
In the past I have noticed antifreeze leaking out of 2 areas of the 912,,
1: was from the Ells where the coolant lines attached at the bottom of the
heads. Two of them came out by hand cold,,, I was told by the mechanic at
LEAF that they had never seen that problem. I bought the correct lock tite
and re installed the ells with no additional problems.
2: there is a small weep hole on the bottom of the engine under the water
pump, and if that is where you are seeing the leak, I have noticed the
same situation, and when I asked at LEAF I was told that if the overflow
bottle did not go down too rapidly, and the level in the engine stayed up,,,
to just keep an eye on it.. if you start loosing a large amount of
antifreeze, then you may need a new water pump, or other repairs.
Boyd Young
Kolb MKIIIC
Utah
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: M3X drag strut |
| From: | "icrashrc" <icrashrc(at)aol.com> |
Thanks for all the replies. I went back and looked at all the info i was supplied
and the rivets are simply not there. I don't know what Craig has that shows
them but I don't have it. SS rivets spaced 3" apart, top and bottom, staggered.
We can do that. Thanks again!
Scott
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230468#230468
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Valentines Day Flight |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
"by0ung(at)brigham.net"
>
> Ralph
>
> In the past I have noticed antifreeze leaking out of 2 areas of the 912,,
> 1: was from the Ells where the coolant lines attached at the bottom of the
> heads. Two of them came out by hand cold,,, I was told by the mechanic at
> LEAF that they had never seen that problem. I bought the correct lock tite
> and re installed the ells with no additional problems.
>
> 2: there is a small weep hole on the bottom of the engine under the water
> pump, and if that is where you are seeing the leak, I have noticed the
> same situation, and when I asked at LEAF I was told that if the overflow
> bottle did not go down too rapidly, and the level in the engine stayed up,,,
> to just keep an eye on it.. if you start loosing a large amount of
> antifreeze, then you may need a new water pump, or other repairs.
>
> Boyd Young
> Kolb MKIIIC
> Utah
Thanks boyd, I will check into this. So far the coolant drips a few drops when
the engine is cold. I suppose it could get worse. I use the Evans coolant.
Ralph B.
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar 447
N91493 E-AB
22 years flying it
Kolbra 912UL
N20386
almost 1 year flying it
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230473#230473
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Valentines Day Flight |
| From: | zeprep251(at)AOL.COM |
Anyone know if the pump seals are neoprene or ceramic?
?? G.Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: Ralph B <ul15rhb(at)juno.com>
Sent: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 4:19 am
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Valentines Day Flight
"by0ung(at)brigham.net"
>
> Ralph
>
> In the past I have noticed antifreeze leaking out of 2 areas of the 912,,
> 1: was from the Ells where the coolant lines attached at the bottom of the
> heads. Two of them came out by hand cold,,, I was told by the mechanic at
> LEAF that they had never seen that problem. I bought the correct lock tite
> and re installed the ells with no additional problems.
>
> 2: there is a small weep hole on the bottom of the engine under the water
> pump, and if that is where you are seeing the leak, I have noticed the
> same situation, and when I asked at LEAF I was told that if the overflow
> bottle did not go down too rapidly, and the level in the engine stayed up,,,
> to just keep an eye on it.. if you start loosing a large amount of
> antifreeze, then you may need a new water pump, or other repairs.
>
> Boyd Young
> Kolb MKIIIC
> Utah
Thanks boyd, I will check into this. So far the coolant drips a few drops when
the engine is cold. I suppose it could get worse. I use the Evans coolant.
Ralph B.
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar 447
N91493 E-AB
22 years flying it
Kolbra 912UL
N20386
almost 1 year flying it
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230473#230473
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark" <mshimei(at)bellsouth.net> |
Does anyone know what 2 blade prop the stock Ultrastar uses? Cuyuna,flat
belt drive,48" max diameter. I could use one.. Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Flight/Line FL-760 Radio |
| From: | "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)hughes.net> |
Does anyone use or have any experience with the Flight/Line Fl-760 radio. I was
going to simply use my Icon hand held radio but I like the fact that the Fl-760
has a built in intercom. It does seem odd though that some people that have
this radio hook it into a separate external intercom. This is the main question
I have about this radio. Why would anyone feel the need to have an external
intercom when one is built into the radio. If the built in intercom is lousy
and unusable than I would like to know before I go out and buy it. If it's
really only good for communication, than I might as well go with my original
idea.
Would appreciate any info on this.
Rick Lewis
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230595#230595
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ultrastar prop |
Message Mark:
Been 25 years since my Ultrastar, but I remember what came with the kit and
which prop was the best for the US:
Jim Culver 50"X30"
Larry and/or Gene Smith of Valley Engineering can fix up right up. They bo
ught the rights to Jim Culvers props:
http://www.culverprops.com/index.php
john h
mkIII
Does anyone know what 2 blade prop the stock Ultrastar uses? Cuyuna,flat
belt drive,48" max diameter. I could use one.. Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | warp drive prop extension |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi all,
I've seen a prop extension used on the Kolb with the warp drive prop on the 912,
I think I saw a video of the factory MKIII with an extension used.
There's a possibility I may put a warp drive on my plane (which also uses the 912ULS
in pusher config) and I'd need an extension - is this a Kolb part or is
it aftermarket?
Just curious,
thanks,
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230600#230600
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: warp drive prop extension |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
You can buy the prop extension directly from Warp Drive, I bought my 4 inch prop
extension from Warp drive when I bought my prop. Its very strong and well designed.
Talk to Daryl and he will fix you up the extension, bolts, and everything
you need !
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230605#230605
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | re: warp drive prop extension |
| From: | "Kirby, Dennis CTR USAF AFMC MDA/AL" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
<< I've seen a prop extension used on the Kolb with the warp drive prop
on the 912, >>
Lucien -
As Scott "icrashrc" suggested, Travis at Kolb recommended I go to Sabre
Mfg (Granbury, TX) for a prop extension for my 912. I purchased a
3-inch extension for my Powerfin for $320 in March, 07. CNC machined
from billet aluminum, it's practically a work of art. I have been
totally pleased with it, since I installed it. Noticeable decrease in
cabin noise, in flight.
I suspect the type of prop you have does not matter. What is important
is you tell them it's for a 912. It's the 912's prop flange and hole
spacing that dictates the design of the prop extension. Good luck!
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, 912ul, Powerfin-72
Cedar Crest, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: warp drive prop extension |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
Ok thanks all.
A warp drive is currently plan B. I'm doing plan A first tho. The electric pitch
adjust in my IVO has gone intermittant which makes pitch adjustment, er, kind
of impossible to say the least ;).
So I'm putting the ground adjust backplate on it rather than try to figure out
what's gone wrong with the electric stuff. It wasn't really that lovely to me
when it did work, so...
It's always been a reasonably OK prop, but I keep remembering how well my warp
drive worked on my FSII. So I may end up splurging on a warp drive for this plane
too (plus or minus the ol' tax return that is)....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230831#230831
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Non Kolb Ultralight Crash |
> The most spectacular information was provided by http://wwww.lowellsun.com
> as a video made by the woman pilot's son. It is the kind of thing that
> will
> put 103-7 at risk.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
Jack:
Amazing she lived. She was flying a HiMax. Wooden airplanes are not very
crashworth. When they hit, they explode. I have seen several crash.
Always the same scenario. The pilot usually ends up on the ground with a
piece of the wooden seat and seat belt attached to kindling.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Ultralights....no training required |
Kolb people=2C
The following quote is from the newspaper article regarding the NH women'
s second ultralight flight:
"According to official FAA regulations=2C no pilot license is required to o
perate an ultralight plane."
Remains of an ultralight plane rest where it crashed against a house on Har
vest Road in Windham=2C N.H. (Sun/Jon Hill) Many non-pilots and some people
read that last sentence to say "According to the FAA=2C no pilot license A
ND TRAINING is required to operate an ultralight.
Having crashed an ultralight myself=2C because I ASSUMED "some" Cessna pi
lot training from years ealier was good enough=2C I feel qualified enough t
o say that she=2C as was I=2C is a moron.
I'm not exactly sure why some of us think proper flight instruction isn't
necessary=2C just because the airplane is small. I hope she learned her l
esson. I know I learned mine! I
hope others that who read this=2C and tried to fly their own plane and cras
hed=2C have learned also. Can you fly an ultralight=2C without training=2C
and live? Yes=2C some have. I know one guy who did. (He eventually stal
led=2C crashed=2C broke his ankle=2C and totalled the plane at Cd'A=2C ID)
But=2C is it worth the risk of smashing your plane=2C and broken bones and
possibly worse? Not to me=2C anymore!!
I plan on proper flight instruction before taking all my hard work into t
he air. Just my thoughts on the matter.......
Mike Welch
MkIII CX
_________________________________________________________________
Want to do more with Windows Live? Learn =9310 hidden secrets=94 from Jamie
.
http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!5
50F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | russ kinne <russ(at)rkiphoto.com> |
Kolbers
Anyone in FL got time to gab for 15 a little while? I expect to
swing thru Jax, Stuart, Sarasota & Clearwater. Would like to visit if
you have the time.
Pls contact me off list.
Thanx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Non Kolb Ultralight Crash |
| From: | "N111KX (Kip)" <n111kx(at)mindspring.com> |
I hate it when the FAA prelim site uses the term "unregistered ultralight".
If they were registered then they would not be ultralights, right?
And these are the people that govern us... [Rolling Eyes]
Kip
--------
Kip
Firestar II, N111KX
Waiex, N111YX
Quickie 1, N111QX
Atlanta
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230921#230921
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark" <mshimei(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Ultrastar redrive |
Well....my flat belt drive has a bad shaft...anyone got one in the corner
somewhere? THX Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "clrprop" <ktony(at)windstream.net> |
Could someone please give me a ballpark number on what the useful load should be
on a Mark III C with a 582 and standard configuration?
Thanks!
Keath T
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=230947#230947
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
| Subject: | new photos on facebook |
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid 10836&id=1002056194&l=03915
I posted a few more photos on facebook this evening. I decided to burn a
bit more gas in the HKS since the weather warmed up above 40 degrees and
the wind died, so I took my camera along and took a 360 video that I
also uploaded to face book, but I cannot find a link to it that will
allow a non face book member to see it. I did post some still pictures
of the area however. I shot the video at the highest setting on the
little camera, (a Fuji z20, a small compact pocket camera) and I was
fairly impressed with the quality. If I can figure out how to get a link
for it I will post it later. The large shadow areas caused by the clouds
screw with the pictures a bit, but if you notice there are three total
houses in any of the pictures.
I decided to fly up to the bottom of the clouds that were drifting
overhead, and ran the engine as hard as I could allowing the CHT's to
control my throttle setting. At almost 9000 feet the OAT was 24 degrees
and I could run the engine at 5800 RPM's without overheating.
Larry C, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
> Could someone please give me a ballpark number on what the useful load
> should be on a Mark III C with a 582 and standard configuration?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Keath T
>
>
> Keath,
Depending on the empty weight of the particular bird and if the established
gross weight is 1000 pounds, the usefull load with ten gallons of fuel will
be around 400 to 500 pounds.
Denny Rowe, Mk-3, 690L-70, empty weight 470lbs, useful load approx 470lbs.
PS, some people set their gross weight as high as 1200lbs when they register
their Mk-3s, adding a lot to their legal useful load.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
Keath
Useful load really depends on how it is built. Most Kolbs are built heavy
reducing their useful load. My MKIIIC with a VW weighs 598lbs. empty. The
582 will weigh less but there really isn't a standard MKIII empty weight.
They are after all experimental so the weight varies all over the place.
Also Kolb recommends a maximum gross weight of 1000 lbs. It is NOT good to
recommend a higher gross weight. Some people have made modifications (me
included) that they think increases the strength and have registered their
planes heaver but? Kolb is conservative but they have to be because the
builders might not build the plane correctly. My plane is registered with a
1050 lbs. maximum gross weight and it is beefed up to my satisfaction. There
is only one person that I'm aware of that has a gross weight at 1200 lbs.
and he did some major modification to do this.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedenny(at)windstream.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 7:00 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: weight question
>
>
>> Could someone please give me a ballpark number on what the useful load
>> should be on a Mark III C with a 582 and standard configuration?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Keath T
>>
>>
>> Keath,
>
> Depending on the empty weight of the particular bird and if the
> established gross weight is 1000 pounds, the usefull load with ten gallons
> of fuel will be around 400 to 500 pounds.
>
> Denny Rowe, Mk-3, 690L-70, empty weight 470lbs, useful load approx 470lbs.
> PS, some people set their gross weight as high as 1200lbs when they
> register their Mk-3s, adding a lot to their legal useful load.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
The other part of declaring a heavier weight is that you must test the
aircraft at that weight and record such things as stall speed at that weight
in order to legally come out of phase 1 testing. If you declare 1200 lb. and
only test to 1050, or whatever, you have never truly completed your phase 1
testing. Check to see what your operating limitations say, too.
Rick
On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 8:10 AM, Richard & Martha Neilsen <
NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> wrote:
> NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net>
>
> Keath
>
> Useful load really depends on how it is built. Most Kolbs are built heavy
> reducing their useful load. My MKIIIC with a VW weighs 598lbs. empty. The
> 582 will weigh less but there really isn't a standard MKIII empty weight.
> They are after all experimental so the weight varies all over the place.
>
> Also Kolb recommends a maximum gross weight of 1000 lbs. It is NOT good to
> recommend a higher gross weight. Some people have made modifications (me
> included) that they think increases the strength and have registered their
> planes heaver but? Kolb is conservative but they have to be because the
> builders might not build the plane correctly. My plane is registered with a
> 1050 lbs. maximum gross weight and it is beefed up to my satisfaction. There
> is only one person that I'm aware of that has a gross weight at 1200 lbs.
> and he did some major modification to do this.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedenny(at)windstream.net>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 7:00 AM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: weight question
>
>
>>
>>
>> Could someone please give me a ballpark number on what the useful load
>>> should be on a Mark III C with a 582 and standard configuration?
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Keath T
>>>
>>>
>>> Keath,
>>>
>>
>> Depending on the empty weight of the particular bird and if the
>> established gross weight is 1000 pounds, the usefull load with ten gallons
>> of fuel will be around 400 to 500 pounds.
>>
>> Denny Rowe, Mk-3, 690L-70, empty weight 470lbs, useful load approx 470lbs.
>> PS, some people set their gross weight as high as 1200lbs when they
>> register their Mk-3s, adding a lot to their legal useful load.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | withdrawal symptoms |
| From: | zeprep251(at)aol.com |
Rick,
??? How are you holding up?A couple months now,earthbound,no view from up high,no
olfactory treat flying over the local pig farms, no riding the midday thermals!
Just checking!
?? Gary Aman MK-3C Jabiru 2200, Lakeland Fla.
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard & Martha Neilsen <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 9:10 am
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: weight question
?
Keath?
?
Useful load really depends on how it is built. Most Kolbs are built heavy
reducing their useful load. My MKIIIC with a VW weighs 598lbs. empty. The
582 will weigh less but there really isn't a standard MKIII empty weight.
They are after all experimental so the weight varies all over the place.?
?
Also Kolb recommends a maximum gross weight of 1000 lbs. It is NOT good to
recommend a higher gross weight. Some people have made modifications (me
included) that they think increases the strength and have registered their
planes heaver but? Kolb is conservative but they have to be because the
builders might not build the plane correctly. My plane is registered with a
1050 lbs. maximum gross weight and it is beefed up to my satisfaction. There
is only one person that I'm aware of that has a gross weight at 1200 lbs.
and he did some major modification to do this.?
?
Rick Neilsen?
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC?
?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denny Rowe" <rowedenny(at)windstream.net>?
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 7:00 AM?
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: weight question?
?
>?
>?
>> Could someone please give me a ballpark number on what the useful load
>> should be on a Mark III C with a 582 and standard configuration??
>>?
>> Thanks!?
>>?
>> Keath T?
>>?
>>?
>> Keath,?
>?
> Depending on the empty weight of the particular bird and if the
> established gross weight is 1000 pounds, the usefull load with ten gallons
> of fuel will be around 400 to 500 pounds.?
>?
> Denny Rowe, Mk-3, 690L-70, empty weight 470lbs, useful load approx 470lbs.?
> PS, some people set their gross weight as high as 1200lbs when they
> register their Mk-3s, adding a lot to their legal useful load.?
>?
>?
>?
> ?
?
?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes |
| From: | "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com> |
I appreciate everyone's input on this. I'm sorry it has taken me so long to follow
up, but it has taken me a while to get out and work on it and then test it.
I used my shop vac on the inside where the fabric joins the tubing and cleaned
up any loose dirt I could. The outside oily substance I had already just
wiped away when I first saw it. Then I put some goop as a filler so that more
substance (water, dirt, etc.) wouldn't fall down between the fabric and tubing.
I put the goop only in a couple test areas that seemed to have a problem.
I've flown and flown and it is not doing it again anywhere, so here's hoping either
one or both the cleaning and/or goop helped.
I'll keep you informed (for those inquiring minds...whose initials are Carlos).
:D
jbhart(at)onlyinternet.ne wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > Haven't followed this thread closely, but do have a comment about fabric
> > wearing aluminum. It's likely not the covering doing the damage, but
> > grit carried by the covering as it moves relative to the tube.
> >
> > Most of the guys flying bigger experimentals know not to use nylon wire
> > ties directly on motor mounts because they can eat through the 4130
> > steel. Dirt & grit get embedded in the nylon & if it moves, it acts like
> > a saw. This is a very real issue with any soft material moving against
> > metal in an a/c; I've had a fabric covered starter cable cut through an
> > aluminum oil drain-back tube on a Lyc.
> >
> >
> >
>
> Charlie, Cristal, and Kolbers,
>
> One thing to remember is that iron oxide and aluminum oxide are both
> abrasives, where aluminum oxide is the champ. This why if the fabric is
> fretting over aluminum tubing, a black powder will form. Add a little water
> or oil and it will run down the fabric. When you can see the black, it is
> the alumni oxide caught in the fabric that will rapidly wear or fret the
> aluminum tube over which the fabric has been stretched.
>
> Since you cannot get away from the fabric contacting the aluminum tube oxide
> coating, the only way to stop the fretting is to make sure the fabric cannot
> move. In Cristal's case I would blow the dust away from the tube and fabric
> and then lightly brush poly tack thinned with some MEK above the tube an on
> the inside of the fabric. This combination should help to re attach the
> fabric to the tube. Brushing it lightly will prevent a run down on the
> inside of the fabric that may show through. Then I would follow up with a
> second brushing of full strength poly tack. Then I would air brush the
> paint on the out side and go fly.
>
> Snowing a little
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Winchester, IN
--------
Cristal Waters
Kolb Mark II Twinstar
Rotax 503 DCSI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231112#231112
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
I use Goop for some areas in building model airplanes where I can not use a brittle
glue. Goop is incredibly strong and durable ! The only thing that seems
to kill good is constant everyday exposure to the sun. I bet that Goop inside
will outlast the fabric !
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231137#231137
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: new photos on facebook |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
As always very nice pictures Larry, was it rough under those clouds ?
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231138#231138
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flight/Line FL-760 Radio |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Rick,
If you want a radio with a built in Intercom, look at the Icom A210. This radio
is nothing short of incredible, and the built intercom works way better than
my dedicated electronic computerized intercom did. I took the dedicated intercom
out and use the Icom. As far as the radio part, the Icom is unbeatable,
very sophisticated, and easy to use. There are many setup options that you never
knew you wanted until you have them.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231139#231139
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | condition inspection "annual"? |
| From: | "grantr" <grant_richardson25(at)yahoo.com> |
My airplane is registered as an experimental amateur built. Can any A&P do the
inspection or do they have to hold a IA certification?
I was told by one A&P that many of them do not want to do the inspections on these
airplanes due to liability. In other words they don't want to sign off on
it unless its a certified airplane.
I think I found someone to do it I hope.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231140#231140
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new photos on facebook |
----- Original Message -----
From: JetPilot
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 6:45 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: new photos on facebook
As always very nice pictures Larry, was it rough under those clouds ?
Mike
No, but there was a nice lift of about 700 FPM.
Larry C, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brad Z." <brad(at)mykcwireless.com> |
| Subject: | Wheel Pants Source - 6.00 x 6 Tires |
I'm looking for a source to buy wheel pants for my MKIII Classic.
Leading Edge Airfoils used to have them, but they're backordered
indefinitely. I have the 6.00 x 6 tires. Any leads would be
appreciated. I just bought my plane, and am new to the wonderful world
of Kolb.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flight/Line FL-760 Radio |
| From: | "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)hughes.net> |
Thanks for the info Mike I'll check it out. I like Icom anyway.
Rick L.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231147#231147
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: condition inspection "annual"? |
Any A&P. It's all about liability. Some people you can trust and
some..........??
What happens when the A&P inspects and signs off an airplane and then
the owner turns
around and sells it immediately to a crazed idiot who does something
stupid and now guess who has his
name in the book? Innocent passenger's family sues everyone involved.
No thanks.
BB
On 19, Feb 2009, at 8:58 PM, grantr wrote:
>
>
> My airplane is registered as an experimental amateur built. Can
> any A&P do the inspection or do they have to hold a IA certification?
>
> I was told by one A&P that many of them do not want to do the
> inspections on these airplanes due to liability. In other words
> they don't want to sign off on it unless its a certified airplane.
>
> I think I found someone to do it I hope.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231140#231140
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | wheel pants and Icom |
Kolb guys and Brad:
Brad=2C The following paragraph I copied and pasted here=2C from the guy
I bought my wheel pants from. The quality is astounding=2C and I highly re
commend them.
My com radio is an Icom A200. I actually can see light at the end of the
tunnel for the day I will be installing it. (1 month??)
BTW=2C I began the Poly Fiber covering of my left wing today. It has bee
n a long=2C long time coming! ALL other Poly Fiber has been installed=2C P
oly Brushed=2C and Poly Sprayed (incl. cabin=2C all tailfeather=2C both fla
ps and ailerons...done)
Here's the copied and pasted part from John=3B
I will accept your offer for $160 total for the 2 mains=2C but they are bla
ck and we are currently out of white material=2C or I would substitute them
for you. If this is ok with you=2C I'll follow the Ebay process to accept
your offer=2C or you can just buy them direct. I accept Paypal to wjohn1156
@aol.com or a check is fine also to:
Precision Composite Inc.
56 Marnel Rd.
Montgomery=2C IL. 60538
Thanks for your interest in our products!
John
Send him an email and ask for his phone number.
Best regards=2C Mike Welch
MkIII CX
_________________________________________________________________
Get more out of the Web. Learn 10 hidden secrets of Windows Live.
http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!5
50F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: condition inspection "annual"? |
| From: | "grantr" <grant_richardson25(at)yahoo.com> |
How is this any different from signing off a private owned certified airplane?
If the same circumstances occur that A&P's name is in the logs as well. He can
still be sued either way right?
I hate our sue happy legal system! [Evil or Very Mad]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231153#231153
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes |
| From: | "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com> |
ElleryWeld(at)aol.com wrote:
> What in heck is wrong with using poly tack something that we all know is compatible
with the poly fiber material
>
> Ellery
Some people wanted to know what I did so I let everyone know. Was it the best
solution? Probably not. I'm not sure I like the way it looks on the outside
where the goop bonded with the fabric. But luckily I only put it in a couple
small places.
Whoever did the fabric on the cage on this plane didn't follow standard procedures
for poly-fiber. They used automotive paint and didn't apply the silver coat
for UV protection. I will probably have to do a recovering of the cage soon
enough.
--------
Cristal Waters
Kolb Mark II Twinstar
Rotax 503 DCSI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231154#231154
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
As an alternative, brushing polybrush and polytone with a paint brush instead of
using a sprayer works pretty well. I painted everything on my Firestar wings
with a roller and paint brush. It's not messy and there's no concern about over-spray.
It makes adding patches and repairs easy.
Ralph B
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar 447
N91493 E-AB
22 years flying it
Kolbra 912UL
N20386
almost 1 year flying it
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231160#231160
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/firestar__930.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes |
> Whoever did the fabric on the cage on this plane didn't follow standard
procedures for poly-fiber. They used automotive paint and didn't apply the
silver coat for UV protection. I will probably have to do a recovering of
the cage soon enough.
>
> --------
> Cristal Waters
Cristal:
If it was mine, and auto paint had been used, I'd make sure fabric on all
flying surfaces, especially the wings, were inspected and a punch tested.
Couple years ago I helped pull old fabric from a Kolb that had been finished
with auto paint. The fabric had little to no tear resistance.
I make it a habit never to mix products when covering an airplane with the
Polyfiber process.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fabric rubbing on cage tubes |
Whoever did the fabric on the cage on this plane didn't follow
standard procedures for poly-fiber. They used automotive paint and
didn't apply the silver coat for UV protection. I will probably have to
do a recovering of the cage soon enough.
--------
Cristal Waters
Kolb Mark II Twinstar
Rotax 503 DCSI
Cristal,
It is my understanding that the use of Auto Paint on Poly Fiber is
not either recommended or good. I repainted my Firestar with Auto paint
when I first bought it. All seemed ok and I did use it for a long time,
but it did do something to the fabric, and just carrying the wings by
hand was enough to split the fabric. Scary in the extreme. If this guy
did the wings with the auto paint, I would suggest that you do a fabric
punch test to make sure that it did not affect the covering. The cage
wouldn't be much more than an inconvenience, the wings would be serious.
Larry C, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: condition inspection "annual"? |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Grant, all, I'll give you the gist of what the lawyer who addressed our
LSARM class said."The first thing I'll do is go through the logbooks and
name everyone whose name is in them in the lawsuit, anything less is
malpractice."
The legal system works fine, it's the people who use it that you have issue
with.
Rick
On Thu, Feb 19, 2009 at 8:55 PM, grantr wrote:
>
> How is this any different from signing off a private owned certified
> airplane? If the same circumstances occur that A&P's name is in the logs as
> well. He can still be sued either way right?
>
>
> I hate our sue happy legal system! [Evil or Very Mad]
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231153#231153
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pants Source - 6.00 x 6 Tires |
At 09:07 PM 2/19/2009, you wrote:
>
>I'm looking for a source to buy wheel pants for my MKIII Classic.
>Leading Edge Airfoils used to have them, but they're backordered
>indefinitely. I have the 6.00 x 6 tires. Any leads would be
>appreciated. I just bought my plane, and am new to the wonderful
>world of Kolb.
I like these kind, you can run over rocks etc. but still keep the
junk out of your prop.
Used to be made by Harbor Products in California. Don't know if
they're still in business.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Wheel Pants Source - 6.00 x 6 Tires |
I'm looking for a source to buy wheel pants for my MKIII Classic.
> Leading Edge Airfoils used to have them=2C but they're backordered
> indefinitely. I have the 6.00 x 6 tires. Any leads would be
> appreciated. I just bought my plane=2C and am new to the wonderful world
> of Kolb.
Brad=2C
I found John's instrument pod he sells on eBay. Although he doesn't pres
ently show an auction for wheel pants=2C I know he sells them. Awesome stu
ff=2C too.
If you want a picture of my wheel pants=2C let me know=2C and I'll email
a picture.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ultralight-Aircraft-Instrument-Pod-Grand-Rap
ids-Rotax_W0QQitemZ130285888714QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Aviation_Parts_Gea
r?hash=item130285888714&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A64%7C66%3
A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318
Mike Welch
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live=99: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_howitworks_0
22009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: withdrawal symptoms |
I will just have to go on my daily shark tooth hunting walk on the
beach.>>
Watch it Richard. There is such a thing as `Sanibel Island back` caused
by the daily hunt aong the tide line. Almost as dangerous as flying...
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=8745527181379621427
I took another video today while out flying. It is one of the canyons in
this area. It is about 18 miles east on the Bowden Ranch. There are Big
Horn Sheep there, although I didn't see any today. I am in the process
of uploading another and will send the link when it is finished.
Larry C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Larry:
Was that the area John W and Roger saw the Big Horns last year?
I never did see them, but it was so rough it kept my eyes jiggled.
Looks like you may have had a little wind today>
Getting ready to fly West. Less than 3 months.
Far as I know, at this time, there will be a flight of four MKIII's flying
from MV to the Rock House, Jordan Valley, Oregon.
Me, John B, Gary H, and Bruce C. Guess I can handle a Texan and two dudes
from LA (Louisianna that is) ;-)
Got to replace the ABS plastic BRS egress door in the top of the center sec
tion. I replaced it two years ago, but it was an extra piece I got when I
redid the parachute in 2000. The first one lasted 7 years. The second one
lasted two years before it started cracking/shattering. Got the new piece
ready to install soon as it warms up enough to work outside.
Put a new piece of no-skid on the tail boom. The first one lasted 17 years.
Also installed a small solar panel with 2 amp charger on the front of the h
anger. Got a pigtail attached to the battery. Takes about 10 seconds to p
lug or unplug when putting the plane up or getting ready to go fly. My clo
ck runs all the time and will drain the battery after a couple months, if I
do not fly. Hard on those expensive Odyssey Batteries when they get run d
own and stay down for a while. Should have had something like this from da
y one, but that's history.
john h
mkIII
I took another video today while out flying. It is one of the canyons in
this area. It is about 18 miles east on the Bowden Ranch. There are Big Ho
rn Sheep there, although I didn't see any today. I am in the process of upl
oading another and will send the link when it is finished.
Larry C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 6:57 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: video
Larry:
Was that the area John W and Roger saw the Big Horns last year?
I never did see them, but it was so rough it kept my eyes jiggled.
Looks like you may have had a little wind today>
=
Yes that is the place. There was really not too much wind, but I did
get a bit of a "upslope wind" when I got to the end of the canyon that
kicked me about 400 feet higher.
Larry C, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-3078188657171666181
Here is the other one. Quality sucks again, but it is better than
nothing I guess.
Larry C, Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
Hello Rick and all....
I finally got my M3X home and getting it finished up for this spring.My airplane
has a Jab 2200 on it and is fairly loaded up and when I did the weight and balance
for the plane ,the empty weight came out to 596.2 lbs. I called Brian and
he said to set the gross weight for my airplane at 1150 lbs and that would
be no problem. I was glad to here ,Rick , that yours with the VW came in at 598.I
was also told they figure the empty weight plus full fuel,and 2 passengers
for the gross weight.(for a 2 place airplane that is).
chris ambrose
ces308(at)ldaco.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231305#231305
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TheWanderingWench <thewanderingwench(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Flying to Sun 'n Fun - and maybe MV! |
Hi Kolbers -
I'm going to pull a John Hauck - I'm planning on taking off on Saturday, March
28 from my home field in Sandy, Oregon and flying my single seat Maxair Drifter
to Sun 'n Fun (and back.) And on the return flight, hoping to join you at the
MV fly-in. I've been dreaming about doing this for about 4-5 years, and the
time seems right.
In my speaking presentations,(I earn my living doing keynote speeches and consulting
with organizations) I urge audiences to create "big, hairy, bodacious goals"
for themselves. This extreme flight is MY big, hairy, bodacious goal. Flying
to Florida and back has become more than a goal; it's become an obsession!
At first this flight was just about the flying adventure. Then as folks started
hearing about what I was going to do, I got e-mails and phone calls telling me
that my flight was an inspiration to them, and that just hearing about what
I was planning caused them to question their own self-imposed limits. I realized
that I could use this flight as a platform to carry my message of thinking
boldly and living life with passion.
I'm passionate about sharing this message, especially with girls and women. Not
that I want to leave you guys out - it's just that the message seems especially
important for folks of the female persuasion. Lynda Meeks, the founder of Girls
With Wings, says: "Research has proven that we can expose our girls to the
opportunities available to them, but unless we can give them real life examples
of women who have achieved their dreams, girls have difficulty picturing themselves
doing the same." I believe that's true for "grown up girls" as well."
I decided to use this flight to promote Girls With Wings, an organization using
women in aviation to encourage girls to reach their full potential. I'll bring
"Penelope Pilot" along on the flight. The Penelope Pilot Project seeks to increase
girls' participation in aviation events and activities, as well as encourage
girls to test their wings in other ways.
I was also contacted by Dean Billing, who runs a grass-roots national organization campaigning to get enthanol-free gas available at airports. I'll send out a separate e-mail about Dean's organization, because I think we all should support it - look it up on the web at www.e0pc.com I'll be carrying e0pc's message on the flight also, with e0pc decals on my boom tube and a single sheet flyer that I'll be posting on FBO message boards.
At first it looked as though I'd be making the flight by myselfand I had a lot
of fears about that. Then, to my great joy, a good friend and flying buddy called
to tell me he wants to fly the entire route with me, if he can get his ultralight
ready in time. And other ultralight pilots have shown interest in joining
us at various points, for varying amounts of time. If you live along our route,
join us for part of the flight!
You'll be able to follow the flight online via a blog. I'll include pictures and
details of the flight. I'll probably begin the blog in the next week or so,
writing about what we're doing to prepare for the flight: preflight planning,
logistical support details, discussion of weather and other issues. I'll publish
a map as part of the blog. There's already some stuff on it - at
http://www.lessonsfromtheedge.com/uladventure2009.htm
Right now, our plan is to leave on Saturday, March 28, fly south through western
Oregon into California following I-5. We'll connect with I-10 in southern California
and follow it east to Florida and Sun 'n Fun. The return flight will
take us slightly further north, through Oklahoma and northern New Mexico, to Monument
Valley, the Great Salt Lake, Idaho and back into Oregon. The flight will
be approximately 7500 miles and will take approximately seven weeks. Of course,
weather will be the deciding factor as to how we'll tweak our flight route
plans.
So wish us clear skies and tailwinds in both directions!
Arty Trost
Sandy, Oregon
www.LessonsFromTheEdge.com
http://www.lessonsfromtheedge.com/uladventure2009.htm
"Life's a daring adventure or nothing" Helen Keller
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying to Sun 'n Fun - and maybe MV! |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Arty,
I'm sure I speak for the other Kolbers when I say, "You Go Girl". I've got two
daughters who I tried to teach those principles to and it seems to have taken.
Neither of them like to fly but they are both pretty courageous.
Keep us posted on your progress, along the way, if you can or after the fact, if
not.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY
http://riddletr.googlepages.com/sportpilot-cfi
http://riddletr.googlepages.com/a%26pmechanix
A complex system that works is invariably found to have evolved from a simple system
that works.
- John Gaule
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231397#231397
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Any KOLBs in South Florida? |
| From: | "Fran Losey" <loseyf(at)comcast.net> |
To all,
I have been registered in the KOLB group for about a month now, watching the group
interact and peaking my interest with excellent questions and comments. Some
of you have valuable websites, that I have been researching and discovering
just what is involved in undertaking such a project.
I must say that I am at the counter, ready to purchase a KOLB Mark III kit, but
have not had the opportunity to see physically see one in person. I was disappointed
there was not a single KOLB at Sebring, however I did get the opportunity
to meet with Rick Nielson and George Alexander, and truly appreciated their
time spent with me.
I live between West Palm Beach and Ft. Lauderdale, and would welcome traveling
to a South Florida location to see a project in process, or see a completed bird
and hear builder, owner and operator experiences before I take the plunge (Gulp!).
Sincerely,
Mr. Fran Losey
954-495-0878 Cell
Fran.losey(at)alber.com or
loseyf(at)comcast.net
--------
loseyf(at)comcast.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231417#231417
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
At 09:56 AM 2/21/2009, Richard Girard wrote:
>Chris, et al, I'm not trying to be critical here, but if ever there was an
>illustration of backward thinking, this idea of figuring up the total load
>for a finished aircraft by adding up the weights and then calling this the
>maximum gross is it.
>Any aircraft should be designed from the start with a structure to
>accommodate a given maximum gross weight. By doing this the designer sets
>the safety margin of the aircraft structure FOR THAT LOAD...
While I agree with you, in general, there are a few caveats that may make
it reasonable for an aircraft builder to specify a higher gross weight on
the paperwork.
First, the gross weight is, as you say, set by structural and/or
performance considerations. Both of these take into account all possible
flight conditions... for example, performance at max density altitude,
structural strength in turbulence, etc. What is a safe loading in one set
of conditions may be unsafe in other conditions, etc. If an aircraft is
structurally safe to fly 3G turns at max gross on a bumpy day, then it's
likely just as safe to fly, say, 10% over gross on a calm day with the
pilot flying gently. Similarly, an airplane with barely adequate climb at
(or even under) gross on a hot humid day may well perform much better, even
over gross, on a cold clear day (in fact, IIRC it's legal in Alaska to fly
a certain amount over gross under certain conditions). Also consider all
the aircraft that are utility category at one gross weight, and normal
category (with lower G limits) at a higher weight.
In such conditions, having the higher weight limit specified on the
airworthiness certificate (which is purely a legal document, after all) may
well prevent problems in the event of an incident where the FAA decides to
investigate.
Does this mean that a builder should arbitrarily set the gross weight at
whatever he wishes? Of course not. But it does mean that an informed
builder should consider all the facts, including the type of flying he'll
be doing, before putting down any number on that piece of paper.
-Dana
--
Bill of Rights: Void where Prohibited by Law
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "clrprop" <ktony(at)windstream.net> |
I'm going to replace the cables that brace the tail on my Mark III. Should I go
with the 7x19 strand 3/32 ? I also want to use turnbuckles. Can someone give
me a part number for the correct ones to use?
Thanks,
Keath T
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231424#231424
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
Chris
First and foremost is my concern is for everyone's safety. I had a
discussion years ago with the owner of Kolb at the time who had worked for
Homer Kolb doing some of the design work for the MKIII, was their test
pilot, and engineer. My question was how firm is the gross weight of a
MKIII. If I remember the response correctly he said that the MKIII is the
most conservatively rated Kolb in regards to gross weight. The weight can be
increased a bit if it is flown in smooth air. His biggest concern seemed to
be how well the plane is built. He would not budge on the 1000 lb. maximum
gross weight recommendation.
I have great admiration for Brian's work on Kolb airplanes. If the gross
weight can be increased then it would be one of Brian's that this could be
done. I really question if Brian would make a blanket statement that a
MKIIIX can safely have a 1150 lb. gross weight. If he beefed up the airframe
of a particular airplane to handle the increased gross weight that might be
different. I'm just very concerned that without a structural engineering
study and follow on testing to confirm survivability at a 1150 gross weight
that this might be very dangerous.
If I'm not clear enough then I would like to restate that the maximum gross
weight of a Kolb MKIII is 1000 lbs.
If you choose to fly at the 1150 weight please don't subject innocent
passengers to these dangers. Also PLEASE do not encourage others to do the
same.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com>
Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 11:55 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: weight question
>
> Hello Rick and all....
> I finally got my M3X home and getting it finished up for this spring.My
> airplane has a Jab 2200 on it and is fairly loaded up and when I did the
> weight and balance for the plane ,the empty weight came out to 596.2 lbs.
> I called Brian and he said to set the gross weight for my airplane at 1150
> lbs and that would be no problem. I was glad to here ,Rick , that yours
> with the VW came in at 598.I was also told they figure the empty weight
> plus full fuel,and 2 passengers for the gross weight.(for a 2 place
> airplane that is).
>
> chris ambrose
> ces308(at)ldaco.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231305#231305
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying to Sun 'n Fun - and maybe MV! |
> I'm going to pull a John Hauck - I'm planning on taking off on Saturday,
March 28 from my home field in Sandy, Oregon and flying my single seat
Maxair Drifter to Sun 'n Fun (and back.) And on the return flight, hoping
to join you at the MV fly-in. I've been dreaming about doing this for about
4-5 years, and the time seems right.
>
> Arty Trost
Hi Arty:
Sounds good to me!
Who is going to fly with you?
See you in Lakeland and MV.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
Hi Rick,
Thank you for your input on the gross weight of a Mark 3 Xtra.I will be discussing
this further with the factory monday morning and for anyone else with a M3X
it's 1000 lbs max gross.
chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231439#231439
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
> Thank you for your input on the gross weight of a Mark 3 Xtra.I will be
discussing this further with the factory monday morning and for anyone else
with a M3X it's 1000 lbs max gross.
>
> chris
I have a mkIII that was designed and built long before TNK came up with the
idea of a mkIIIx.
My mkIII has been flying for 17 years (next month), 2,873.5 hours on the
airframe, and has a maximum gross take off weight of 1,200 lbs.
I'd say my mkIII has been thoroughly tested, and has performed impecably
throughout her long life. She has sported a 582, a 912UL, and two 912ULS
engiens. Performance was great with all engines, just got better as hp was
increased. I think the ideal engine for a mkIII would be a 912UL, 80 hp,
based on fuel burn, spark plug life, and the fact that it is happy with 87
oct auto gas. Performance with an 80 hp Rotax is great. 100 hp kinda puts
the icing on the cake, but it does cost more to operate.
I certainly don't encourage anyone to increase the gross weight of any Kolb
they build.
I don't encourage anyone to do anything. ;-)
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
John
Gosh darn it (I got my airplane fix so I'm more easy going). Your plane
certainly isn't stock. You really need to make that clear when you talk
about your gross weight.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2009 6:18 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: weight question
>
>
> > Thank you for your input on the gross weight of a Mark 3 Xtra.I will be
> discussing this further with the factory monday morning and for anyone
> else with a M3X it's 1000 lbs max gross.
>>
>> chris
>
>
> I have a mkIII that was designed and built long before TNK came up with
> the idea of a mkIIIx.
>
> My mkIII has been flying for 17 years (next month), 2,873.5 hours on the
> airframe, and has a maximum gross take off weight of 1,200 lbs.
>
> I'd say my mkIII has been thoroughly tested, and has performed impecably
> throughout her long life. She has sported a 582, a 912UL, and two 912ULS
> engiens. Performance was great with all engines, just got better as hp
> was increased. I think the ideal engine for a mkIII would be a 912UL, 80
> hp, based on fuel burn, spark plug life, and the fact that it is happy
> with 87 oct auto gas. Performance with an 80 hp Rotax is great. 100 hp
> kinda puts the icing on the cake, but it does cost more to operate.
>
> I certainly don't encourage anyone to increase the gross weight of any
> Kolb they build.
>
> I don't encourage anyone to do anything. ;-)
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
> Gosh darn it (I got my airplane fix so I'm more easy going). Your plane
> certainly isn't stock. You really need to make that clear when you talk
> about your gross weight.
>
> Rick Neilsen
Rick:
I'd fly a Kolb mkIII at 1200 lbs, built strictly by the plans Dennis Souder
drew up in 1990, if I built it.
The kit manufacturer recommended my airplane be limited to 1,000 lbs. I
believe the max gross on new mkIII's is still 1,000 lbs.
The only thing I did to increase strength of the wings was put some aluminum
angle on the all main rib noses, plus some stronger lateral bracing from the
main spar to the leading edge, and beefed up bracing on the bow tip at 90
and 45 degrees forward. A copy of Dennis Sounder's plans sheet is attached.
I also added aluminum angle to the tails of the first four outboard main
ribs.
That's all I did. Changing the main gear did not change max gross weight
capacity.
I increased the up elevator cable to 1/8". It is the one that works the
hardest. Down elevator cable is still 3/32. It doesn't do much work.
Any other changes, as far as I know, did nothing to increase strength of my
mkIII
Again, I am not encouraging anyone else to increase the max gross weight
capacity of a Kolb they build.
I did. It serves my purpose, and has more than proven it is capable of
1,200 lbs max gross under any conditions I can subject it to.
I emphasize, I only speak of my airplane. No one elses's.
Your mkIII may not be capable of 1,200 lbs.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
John
The plans from Dennis recommended that this be done to the outboard rib
only. Which I did but you did all full ribs and four of the outer tails. I
also added a jury strut which you did and it seems like you told me you also
beefed up the lift strut.
My POINT IS...... Your plane has been beefed up to handle the 1200 lbs.
gross weight. I never said you advised people to to increase the gross
weight. The problem is you have put your plane thru the ultimate test and it
did hold up with the higher gross weight. That says more than I or anyone
else can say. That is why if you say 1200 lbs you have to tell us everything
you did. John you are a friend so I really don't want to beat you up over
this but lives are at stake here. Want it or not we hang on every word you
say and I remember.
Does Brian do all this? I don't think a standard build would handle the
treatment at 1200lbs.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2009 7:10 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: weight question
> > Gosh darn it (I got my airplane fix so I'm more easy going). Your plane
>> certainly isn't stock. You really need to make that clear when you talk
>> about your gross weight.
>>
>> Rick Neilsen
>
>
> Rick:
>
> I'd fly a Kolb mkIII at 1200 lbs, built strictly by the plans Dennis
> Souder
> drew up in 1990, if I built it.
>
> The kit manufacturer recommended my airplane be limited to 1,000 lbs. I
> believe the max gross on new mkIII's is still 1,000 lbs.
>
> The only thing I did to increase strength of the wings was put some
> aluminum
> angle on the all main rib noses, plus some stronger lateral bracing from
> the
> main spar to the leading edge, and beefed up bracing on the bow tip at 90
> and 45 degrees forward. A copy of Dennis Sounder's plans sheet is
> attached.
> I also added aluminum angle to the tails of the first four outboard main
> ribs.
>
> That's all I did. Changing the main gear did not change max gross weight
> capacity.
>
> I increased the up elevator cable to 1/8". It is the one that works the
> hardest. Down elevator cable is still 3/32. It doesn't do much work.
>
> Any other changes, as far as I know, did nothing to increase strength of
> my
> mkIII
>
> Again, I am not encouraging anyone else to increase the max gross weight
> capacity of a Kolb they build.
>
> I did. It serves my purpose, and has more than proven it is capable of
> 1,200 lbs max gross under any conditions I can subject it to.
>
> I emphasize, I only speak of my airplane. No one elses's.
>
> Your mkIII may not be capable of 1,200 lbs.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
> The plans from Dennis recommended that this be done to the outboard rib
> only. Which I did but you did all full ribs and four of the outer tails. I
> also added a jury strut which you did and it seems like you told me you
> also beefed up the lift strut.
>
> Rick Neilsen
Rick:
Yep! Made sense to me. If it worked to beef up the outboard wing from
abuse, mishandling, drops, ground strikes, etc., then it ought to work to
beef up the other 4 main ribs on each wing panel. That has to be one of the
cheapest, easiest, simplest improvements one can make to vastly increase the
strength of the rib. I was primarily concerned with increasing strength of
the rib noses. Oh yea, and it adds negligible weight.
As far as handling, flying, hauling extra weight with Homer's wings, it'll
do it. I always said if I could stuff it in the mkIII, it would fly off
with it.
Only reason I stiffened the tails of the four outboard ribs was the load the
ailerons placed on them. Made me feel better.
I used 1/2" od aluminum tubing to brace the leading edge to the main spar
inboard and outboard. Keeping the main rib noses in column is critical if
they are going to do their job.
I ended up using 4130 tubing for lift struts inside the extruded streamlined
aluminum struts. Seems I had a difficult time getting the bolt holes
drilled straight, ruined two sets of struts, then opted for the 4130 tubing
(with fittings welded on) inside the aluminum strut. Aluminum strut is
nothing more than a fairing for the steel strut. Had nice 4130 streamlined
struts for the first flight, but one got destroyed during testing. Couldn't
afford to buy material for a replacement when I rebuilt.
If built correctly, the mkIII wing is tremendously strong in my humble
opinion.
I tore up a lot of parts and airplanes during my growing pains in civilian
aviation. Homer used to refer to me as his best test bed. If it could be
broken, I'd breake it. ;-)
Hope I have outgrown being his test bed.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
Rick and John,
Looks like I opened a real can of worms here....I will call Brian and Dennis again
monday and let you know what they say .Please email me off the list and let
me tell you how this all started.I certainly understand both of your urgencies
on this matter and it was also my concern too,which is why I called them
last week.
later,chris
ces308(at)ldaco.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231458#231458
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
> Looks like I opened a real can of worms here....I will call Brian and
Dennis again monday and let you know what they say .Please email me off the
list and let me tell you how this all started.I certainly understand both of
your urgencies on this matter and it was also my concern too,which is why I
called them last week.
>
> later,chris
Chris:
No worms. No urgency.
Simply sharing a few things I have learned building and flying Kolbs for the
past 25 years. Forgot to add, and breaking them too.
I have my mkIII built and configured to perform so I can be relatively
comfortable and accomplish the type flying I am accustomed to. Get me there
and get me home.
What I haul is not passenger weight though. It is fuel, 150 lbs, and my
gear, about 125 lbs, and me, about 200 lbs. From my experience with the
mkIII, they don't like heavy pilots and heavy passengers. I believe this is
primarily because of the high thrust line in the pusher configuration.
Takes a lot of nose up trim to haul heavy passengers and pilot. Looks like
one could get in a pitch problem by trying to fly with 500 lbs of passengers
in front of the cg and only 60 lbs of fuel behind the cg. The weight in my
mkIII is much more evenly distributed.
Even when I fly with a heavy passenger, 250 lbs, plus me, 200 lbs, and 150
lbs of fuel, and an empty weight of 650 lbs, I am already up to 1,250 lbs.
However, 150 lbs of that is in the back. I won't fly with a lot of weight
forward and very little weight in the rear. Don't fly with 250 passengers,
although have done some nice cross country flights with a 220 lbs passenger.
A lot depends on how you configure your airplane.
I'm not trying to defend my mkIII. Only sharing what I have done with it.
We used to fly a lot of passengers at Sun and Fun and Oshkosh back in the
old days. I can assure I got a lot of experience with different weight and
size passengers. My favorites were the kids. You could hardly tell they
were in the airplane.
Take care,
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
| From: | zeprep251(at)aol.com |
Chris,
??? Let me know how you like the Jabiru.
?????????????? G.Aman MK-3C Jabiru 2200 410 hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: ces308 <ces308(at)ldaco.com>
Sent: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 11:55 pm
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: weight question
Hello Rick and all....
I finally got my M3X home and getting it finished up for this spring.My airplane
has a Jab 2200 on it and is fairly loaded up and when I did the weight and
balance for the plane ,the empty weight came out to 596.2 lbs. I called Brian
and he said to set the gross weight for my airplane at 1150 lbs and that would
be no problem. I was glad to here ,Rick , that yours with the VW came in at
598.I was also told they figure the empty weight plus full fuel,and 2 passengers
for the gross weight.(for a 2 place airplane that is).
chris ambrose
ces308(at)ldaco.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231305#231305
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Any KOLBs in South Florida? |
| From: | zeprep251(at)aol.com |
Fran,
?? I am in central Fla.Flew down to Buchan,x36,and had a chance to meet Rick and
George today.I fly a MK-3 and had the opportunity to give Rick some therapeutic
air time.Some other listers are closer,but if you would like to kick the tires(watch
the pants)or go for a flight,let me know if you don't get a another
offer closer to you.Am in Lakeland near Interstate 4.Cell # 330-819-3000
????????????????? Gary Aman MK-3C Jabiru 2200 410hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: Fran Losey <loseyf(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 3:10 pm
Subject: Kolb-List: Any KOLBs in South Florida?
To all,
I have been registered in the KOLB group for about a month now, watching the
group interact and peaking my interest with excellent questions and comments.
Some of you have valuable websites, that I have been researching and
discovering just what is involved in undertaking such a project.
I must say that I am at the counter, ready to purchase a KOLB Mark III kit, but
have not had the opportunity to see physically see one in person. I was
disappointed there was not a single KOLB at Sebring, however I did get the
opportunity to meet with Rick Nielson and George Alexander, and truly
appreciated their time spent with me.
I live between West Palm Beach and Ft. Lauderdale, and would welcome traveling
to a South Florida location to see a project in process, or see a completed bird
and hear builder, owner and operator experiences before I take the plunge
(Gulp!).
Sincerely,
Mr. Fran Losey
954-495-0878 Cell
Fran.losey(at)alber.com or
loseyf(at)comcast.net
--------
loseyf(at)comcast.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231417#231417
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
So far it seems to have tons of power! I do not believe it will have a problem
flying this airplane!
chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231464#231464
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
| From: | zeprep251(at)aol.com |
Quick question for the list.My MK 3 struts are .125 wall tube with 4130 end fittings
with a short shim tube over the? fittings for fit.My friend Gary Jindra.bought
an older, partially? done MK-C kit with poorly built extruded struts.On
our recommendation he bought new stock and started over with the strut building.He
was supplied with .250 wall tubing from Travis.Are all the new kits using
this thickness strut tubing?
??????????????????????????????????? G.Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Sat, 21 Feb 2009 9:05 pm
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: weight question
?
> The plans from Dennis recommended that this be done to the outboard rib?
> only. Which I did but you did all full ribs and four of the outer tails. I
> also added a jury strut which you did and it seems like you told me you
> also beefed up the lift strut.?
>?
> Rick Neilsen?
?
Rick:?
?
Yep! Made sense to me. If it worked to beef up the outboard wing from
abuse, mishandling, drops, ground strikes, etc., then it ought to work to
beef up the other 4 main ribs on each wing panel. That has to be one of the
cheapest, easiest, simplest improvements one can make to vastly increase the
strength of the rib. I was primarily concerned with increasing strength of
the rib noses. Oh yea, and it adds negligible weight.?
?
As far as handling, flying, hauling extra weight with Homer's wings, it'll
do it. I always said if I could stuff it in the mkIII, it would fly off
with it.?
?
Only reason I stiffened the tails of the four outboard ribs was the load the
ailerons placed on them. Made me feel better.?
?
I used 1/2" od aluminum tubing to brace the leading edge to the main spar
inboard and outboard. Keeping the main rib noses in column is critical if
they are going to do their job.?
?
I ended up using 4130 tubing for lift struts inside the extruded streamlined
aluminum struts. Seems I had a difficult time getting the bolt holes
drilled straight, ruined two sets of struts, then opted for the 4130 tubing
(with fittings welded on) inside the aluminum strut. Aluminum strut is
nothing more than a fairing for the steel strut. Had nice 4130 streamlined
struts for the first flight, but one got destroyed during testing. Couldn't
afford to buy material for a replacement when I rebuilt.?
?
If built correctly, the mkIII wing is tremendously strong in my humble
opinion.?
?
I tore up a lot of parts and airplanes during my growing pains in civilian
aviation. Homer used to refer to me as his best test bed. If it could be
broken, I'd breake it. ;-)?
?
Hope I have outgrown being his test bed.?
?
john h?
mkIII?
?
?
?
?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
My struts are 1 1/2 x .125 with the same ends you have.
chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231466#231466
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
when I did the weight and
balance for the plane ,the empty weight came out to 596.2 lbs.>>
Hi there,
just for interest here in the UK there is a strict limit on weight or
the plane ceases to be an ultralight. That means different pilot
licences, plane licenses , maintenance schedules, insurance etc., as
above the limit it automatically becomes a light aircraft. We therefore
do not embark on `beefing up` or a bit extra here and there on the basis
that `it isn`t much extra weight`. It would automatically make our
planes illegal. Of course if you intend to
My Xtra with Jabi 2200 with full oil but no fuel came in at 548 lbs.
240lbs on the mains and 66lbs on the tailwheel.
Today has been really Springlike. Blue sky , light cumulus, 5 knots
wind. I actually ran the engine for the first time since November.
Unfortunately I have been down with a bad back and have been unable to
push the plane out of the hangar so it has been a long lay up. My solar
panel which kept the battery topped up all through the summer has
obviously failed to produce the goods during winter so I had to get the
battery charged. No power in my hangar in the middle of a field.
Replaced the battery, pulled the prop through by hand to move the oil
around a bit, full choke, and fired her up and she started with no
trouble. Nice to hear everything sounding right.
Incredible what can go wrong. I have a carburettor warming device with a
3 way switch. Centre for OFF and up for one warming strength and down
for extra boost. Just sitting in the cockpit warming up the engine and
generally twiddling switches I moved the carb heat switch and it stuck,
and wouldn`t return to centre. Totally solid. Unbelievable. What the
hell can go wrong with a simple device like that? Now I shall have to
disassemble the entire console to replace it. Nothing is simple.
Away in South Africa all of March so it will be early Summer before I
can get flying again.
However, I understand that there is someone offering ultralight flights
over Victoria Falls so I shall give that a go.
Watch that weight. I reckon the Kolb is designed to take more punishment
than you are and adding extra struts etc., is a waste of time and just
produces more for the engine to drag about. Unless, of course if you
intend to fly in the John the Hawk style with enough fuel to go around
the world, tents and survival gear and enough armament to start WW3
(Joke, John) then you may well decide that you need a stronger airframe
than standard. But you need to know as much about planes as John does
before you start overloading.
Cheers
Pat
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
Pat, we can go up to 1320 lbs before we lose our sport pilot privilege.
Otherwise an experimental can be as big as we want it. P&W 985 anyone?
BB
On 22, Feb 2009, at 1:15 PM, pj.ladd wrote:
> when I did the weight and
> balance for the plane ,the empty weight came out to 596.2 lbs.>>
>
> Hi there,
> just for interest here in the UK there is a strict limit on weight
> or the plane ceases to be an ultralight. That means different pilot
> licences, plane licenses , maintenance schedules, insurance etc.,
> as above the limit it automatically becomes a light aircraft. We
> therefore do not embark on `beefing up` or a bit extra here and
> there on the basis that `it isn`t much extra weight`. It would
> automatically make our planes illegal. Of course if you intend to
> My Xtra with Jabi 2200 with full oil but no fuel came in at 548
> lbs. 240lbs on the mains and 66lbs on the tailwheel.
> Today has been really Springlike. Blue sky , light cumulus, 5
> knots wind. I actually ran the engine for the first time since
> November. Unfortunately I have been down with a bad back and have
> been unable to push the plane out of the hangar so it has been a
> long lay up. My solar panel which kept the battery topped up all
> through the summer has obviously failed to produce the goods during
> winter so I had to get the battery charged. No power in my hangar
> in the middle of a field. Replaced the battery, pulled the prop
> through by hand to move the oil around a bit, full choke, and
> fired her up and she started with no trouble. Nice to hear
> everything sounding right.
> Incredible what can go wrong. I have a carburettor warming device
> with a 3 way switch. Centre for OFF and up for one warming strength
> and down for extra boost. Just sitting in the cockpit warming up
> the engine and generally twiddling switches I moved the carb heat
> switch and it stuck, and wouldn`t return to centre. Totally solid.
> Unbelievable. What the hell can go wrong with a simple device like
> that? Now I shall have to disassemble the entire console to replace
> it. Nothing is simple.
> Away in South Africa all of March so it will be early Summer before
> I can get flying again.
> However, I understand that there is someone offering ultralight
> flights over Victoria Falls so I shall give that a go.
>
> Watch that weight. I reckon the Kolb is designed to take more
> punishment than you are and adding extra struts etc., is a waste of
> time and just produces more for the engine to drag about. Unless,
> of course if you intend to fly in the John the Hawk style with
> enough fuel to go around the world, tents and survival gear and
> enough armament to start WW3 (Joke, John) then you may well decide
> that you need a stronger airframe than standard. But you need to
> know as much about planes as John does before you start overloading.
>
> Cheers
>
> Pat
>
> Cheers
>
> Pat
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
Sorry,
it seems that the gremlins got at my previous post and part of one
sentence went walkabout. Sorry about that.
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | zeprep251(at)aol.com |
Rich And George,
??????????????? Enjoyed meeting you guys Sunday and thanks for offering logistic
support.Had almost 4 gals left on arrival at Blackwater,got a little push on
the way back,almost 8mph.And Rick,in my experience,your hearing should return
to normal within a few days.Thanks again guys.
???????????????????????????????????????? Gary Aman ????
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
Hi Pat,
I just got finished clearing the airport of 1 foot of snow with 30 mph winds today
so it will be a bit before mine comes out too! When I called Brian the other
day and questioned him on the fact that he flew the plane with full fuel (20
gal) and 2 230 lbs people on board and he said they took out of a 1200 feet
strip with trees all around and he said it flew great.When I asked him bout being
over weight ,he and Dennis both said not a problem and set the max at 1150.
I am going to confirm this again tomorrow with Dennis. How is the performance
on our M3?
chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231578#231578
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Buchan fly-in |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
Gary,
pretty airplane ! Tell me what kind of performance are you getting with the Jab?
chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231579#231579
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying to Sun 'n Fun - and maybe MV! |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
That sounds like quite an adventure Arty ! I think you are right about it inspiring
people. Ever since I first started reading about John Haucks flights to
Alaska in a Kolb I have wanted to do the same :) It will be the the experience
of a lifetime, good luck !!!!!
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231607#231607
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
we can go up to 1320 lbs before we lose our sport pilot privilege.>>
Hi Robert, presumably you are talking MAUW there. Our weight limit is
also MAUW but there is a standard allowance for 2 crew and full fuel and
as the posts were talking about empty weight I did also. Our other
limits are wing loading and stall speed. On our measuring basis with
the Jabi fitted we only got the stalling speed down to our limits by
fitting VG`s. With the 582 they are not needed, although some pilots fit
them just to get that extra bit of control at low speed and that drop in
stalling speed. You can see that although I have no doubt that the Kolb
will fly at a higher weight it will of course put the stalling speed up
and that will be outside our parameters.
I have a 2 blade wooden prop fitted 157cms/98cms
Figures from my last Annual check.
Climb 55mph at 2800 revs. 80 secs from 1000ft to 2000ft
Stall speed. Power off, flaps up 35mph
Natural buffet speed. 38mph IAS
Dived at one third throttle at 95 mph
Max RPM in dive 2700
Get the snow cleared and get flying.
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
Patrick:
How do you determine "natural buffet speed?
john h
mkIII
Natural buffet speed. 38mph IAS
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
That's how fast you can make it to the "all you can eat buffet"
har
BB
On 23, Feb 2009, at 9:25 AM, John Hauck wrote:
> Patrick:
>
> How do you determine "natural buffet speed?
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
> Natural buffet speed. 38mph IAS
>
> Pat
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Sieberts" <john(at)esedona.net> |
| Subject: | firestar first flight |
Kolbers- Have been lurking for the last 10 months after purchasing a
firestarII kit from Kolb. Made my first flight last weekend. Needs a
little rigging, I installed an HKS from Jerry Olenik @ Green Sky
Adventures. Can't say enough about Jerry's help as well as everyone @
Kolb & Brian Milburne (sp?) with changes etc. (the plans haven't been
updated since 1996) Thanks also to all the other Kolb builders that gave
helpful construction tips, you know who you are. :)
Looking forward to getting back to the basics of fun flying, most of my
flying career was in production GA aircraft, the rest in high
performance kit planes.
Its already way to fun.... Thanks everyone who help make this happen.
John Sieberts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: firestar first flight |
Congratulations, John S.
Always great to hear another new Kolb is in the air.
john h
mkIII
Made my first flight last weekend. John Sieberts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
How do you determine "natural buffet speed?>>
Hi John,
it is just a note of the speed at which the plane shakes to tell you to
drop the nose a tad or you wil stall. It is just one of the boxes that
needs ticking for the annual check.
No idea what use is made of the information. I suppose if you had a
plane which gave no warning of an incipient stall it would be worth
knowing.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: firestar first flight |
| From: | "N111KX (Kip)" <n111kx(at)mindspring.com> |
Great job, John!
Thanks for bringing another Kolb into the world... [Laughing]
Kip
--------
Kip
Firestar II, N111KX
Waiex, N111YX
Quickie 1, N111QX
Atlanta
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231794#231794
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: xtra wingtip mods |
> Aileron mass balances are tested and built.
>
> http://www.ill-eagleaviation.com/AileronMassBalance.htm
>
> I also started the page on the wing center section(gap fill).
>
> http://www.ill-eagleaviation.com/WingCenterSection.htm
>
> Scott
Morning Scott:
Looks good.
When I built my mkIII in 1991, I knew I needed aileron counter balance
weights. Both my Ultrastar and Firestar suffered from aileron flutter. I
could not convince Kolb Aircraft I had a flutter problem, so I designed and
built my own. Wish I had a photo of them. They were pretty. Built similar
to your design, I used 1/8" aluminum plate instead of 4130 streamlined
tubing. My weight was tubular with a turned round nose and tapered tail. I
attached them to the inboard end of the aileron. Early on, during testing,
I experienced severe aileron flutter them installed. Happened to be at the
local airport, landed, and promptly removed them. Flew to Lakeland, Homer's
in PA, and OSH, in 1993, always sitting on the edge of my seat trying to
keep the mkIII close to 80 mph. A couple over and she would start to
flutter. Had a hell of a time trying to fly off a Cessna 210, at OSH, doing
the photo shoot. He was trying to slow down to 80 and I had to fly faster
than 80 to stay up with him. Think it was Lakeland 1994, Dick Rahill had
been out flying the Firestar, got caught is a typical Lakeland wind storm,
was trying to beat feet back to the UL strip, and got into very severe
aileron flutter. Now Kolb Aircraft believed their airplanes were
susceptible to aileron flutter. In a matter of days I had a copy of the new
aileron counter balance weights designed and built for the FS. Their
factory mkIII never fluttered and they were not convinced it needed them. I
flew with the FS counter balance weights on mty 17,400 mile trip to Alaska
and around the country in 1994. They were a blessing. My mkIII has never
had a hint of aileron flutter since I installed them. Made my flying 100%
more comfortable. Soon after they designed and built aileron counter
balance weights for the mkIII.
I really like the center section. Wish I had one similar. Being an
amateur, when I built my mkIII, I ended up with the windshield about 6"
behind the leading edge of the center section. This is a very effect air
scoop, dead air. Randy, at TNK, built me a fairing, but during finishing it
ended up not fitting correctly. Another area of dead air is behind the
doors in the area of both rear quarter windows. Brother Jim and I have
talked about the fix for this many times, but never get around to doing it.
We think a slat, similar to those used on the OH-58 (Bell Jet Ranger) would
work on the sides, and a lexan or sheet metal fairing to kill the hole
between the windshield and leading edge of the center section would fix that
area of drag. How much more cruise speed would it give us? Don't know, but
would be bound to improve some. I lost 5 mph top end installing the 8"
Maule Tundra Tail Wheel, but I don't want to give it up because it works so
well on the ground. Has tapered roller bearings in the pivot and lasts much
longer than the bushed pivots.
Oh well, I am happy with an 80 mph cruise. That has not changed. If I am
patient, I eventually get every where I want to go.
Good work guys,
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
Patrick:
The reason I asked was, never flown any Kolb that gave any warning of an im
pending stall except the airspeed indicator. They go into the mush with no
warning, except ASI, and by this time you are stalling.
Maybe some VG equipped Kolbs give a prestall buffet, similar to a Cessna.
I don't know. The only Kolb I flew with VG's gave no warning. Seemed to s
tall like all the other Kolbs.
john h
mkIII
it is just a note of the speed at which the plane shakes to tell you to
drop the nose a tad or you wil stall. It is just one of the boxes that nee
ds ticking for the annual check.
No idea what use is made of the information. I suppose if you had a plane
which gave no warning of an incipient stall it would be worth knowing.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
I don't feel a prestall buffet in my Kolb, even with VG's. The stall is very hard
to make happen, the AOA has to be ridiculously high, but when it gets to just
below 30 MPH, the stall just happens, the nose drops a bit, and its flying
again almost immediately. Everything is smooth and controls are effective before
and throughout the stall. I have only stalled my Kolb power off, with power,
the nose would be so high a stall would become an aerobatic maneuver.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231824#231824
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | FireFly Stall Pre-Buffet |
Kolbers,
Before I offset the thrust line, the FireFly would stall/mush straight
ahead. After I lowered and offset the thrust line to get more air over the
horizontal tail surfaces and to center the ball without a tab on the rudder,
things changed. The thrust line has been moved to the left. This gives the
left wing a little more lift than the right. At idle and pulling the stick
slowly back the FireFly right wing will buffet lightly and then falls off to
the right. With power on, the buffeting is much more pronounced. It gives
an early warning, to not pull the stick further back. If you do, it will
continue to buck with increasing amplitude until the right wing stalls
continuously and over you go.
This is the disadvantage of an off set thrust line to trim out the FireFly
at cruise. Use of a rudder trim tab instead of offset thrust line would
solve this problem.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
never flown any Kolb that gave any warning of an impending stall>>
Hi John,
you are quite right as usual. My Xtra just mushes at the approach of a
stall. I have never mistreated it badly enough to suddenly fall into a
full stall and I suspect I would have to be very hamhanded to make it do
so. However the annual check form is not only designed for Kolbs but for
the full range of microlights, light aircraft, vintage aircraft and kit
planes which the LAA oversees on behalf of the CAA. If I don`t put
something in the box they will send it back.
I am a bit surprised that your plane when fully loaded with all your
long distance gear doesn`t sharpen up the usual mush into a `proper`
stall. Just shows well Homers wing performs, a real weight lifter.
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: weight question |
Patrick:
Another reason why I put so much faith in this old bird to get me there and
get me home.
Yes, Homer's wing is a "real" weight lifter.
john h
mkIII
I am a bit surprised that your plane when fully loaded with all your lon
g distance gear doesn`t sharpen up the usual mush into a `proper` stall. J
ust shows well Homers wing performs, a real weight lifter.
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: xtra wingtip mods |
> 5mph from just the tail-wheel is a lot!
>
> --------
> Scott
Indicated airspeed. May be like me, getting old and unreliable. ;-)
It is a rather large tail wheel compared to the first one I had on this
mkIII. It was the same as what I had on my original Firestar. The
snowmobile bogey wheel. Didn't last long though. Went through a lot of
tailwheels until I hit on the present one. Took Maule that long to design
and produce something that would last me more than a year or two, back when
I was flying a bit.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
News report today.
A small engineering works in a little village about 20 miles from my
home has built a `sky car`.
It is basically a road legal dune buggy with a large parafoil fitted. I
believe that the engine drives the wheels on the ground and a prop while
in the air.
The team have just returned home from a real `sky drive` adventure. They
started from London with a big press covered event a short while ago and
and drove and flew for 4000 miles to Timbuctoo. They came home
yesterday.
No doubt there will be further details later on.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas R. Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Pat,
That is in interesting vehicle for sure and has been in the aviation news
for awhile. I knew they had begun the journey but I didn't know they had
completed it.
Thom in Buffalo
On Wed, Feb 25, 2009 at 6:46 AM, pj.ladd wrote:
> News report today.
>
> A small engineering works in a little village about 20 miles from my home
> has built a `sky car`.
> It is basically a road legal dune buggy with a large parafoil fitted. I
> believe that the engine drives the wheels on the ground and a prop while in
> the air.
>
> The team have just returned home from a real `sky drive` adventure. They
> started from London with a big press covered event a short while ago and and
> drove and flew for 4000 miles to Timbuctoo. They came home yesterday.
>
> No doubt there will be further details later on.
>
> Pat
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Another *$#(% prop strike! |
| From: | "John Bickham" <gearbender(at)bellsouth.net> |
I've done it again! Something went through the prop. I haven't figured what it
was yet. This happened after a carb sync was completed. I was fiddling with
some stuff and may have left something loose up there.
Now I have ding in my warp and a hole in the top of my right flap to patch.
As far as the Warp, I'm not sure how to proceed. I think I can just press the
bulge back to shape under the tape and be OK. Any experience or suggestions appreciated.
Working on patch on Aerothane. Just trying to getting "patches" ready for MV.
Need to get some extended butt time. Hopefully that will be the only weak link.
--------
Thanks too much,
John Bickham
Mark III-C w/ 912UL
St. Francisville, LA
Landing a plane and being married - a few smooth moments mixed with a lot of rough
ones.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nauga Field NOTAMs (LS35) |
> 2) Also been doing some logging. This has left the powerline on the SE
end seriously exposed and a hazard to those that are unaware. I'm working
on getting some markers for the powerlines. May be a little while to get
them up. See picture.
>
> John Bickham
Sounds great.
I know you wish that damn power line was out of there. Looks high enough to
land under it now that those tall trees are gone. Really opened up that
area.
Water sounds good. Can we take a shower at the cabin now instead of the
fire house?
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another *$#(% prop strike! |
> As far as the Warp, I'm not sure how to proceed. I think I can just press
> the bulge back to shape under the tape and be OK. Any experience or
> suggestions appreciated.
>
> Working on patch on Aerothane. Just trying to getting "patches" ready for
> MV. Need to get some extended butt time. Hopefully that will be the only
> weak link.
>
> John Bickham
How large, or how small, is the hole in the flap?
If you have a nice vinyl decal/sticker, you can stick that over the hole and
save yourself a lot of time and effort.
If not, patch it like you would polytone. Polytak will stick to the
aerothane without a lot of prep. About all I do is clean it good with
Polyfiber Paint Cleaning Solvent. I usually use round patches cut with
pinking shears. Doping and finish paint, I mask off square. If you don't
point out the boo boo, no one will ever know the difference.
I've still got urethane tape on all three blades of my Warp covering dings.
John W was kind enough to bring the tape with him to MV, then attached the
tape for me. It is still on there, although it needs to be removed and the
blades repaired and repainted. I have repaired blades, per Warp Drive
instructions, in Arlington, WA, while on a long 1994 flight. Used 100LL to
clean up the dings, then mixed up some JB Weld with a plastic picnic knife
and filled the dings. Next morning took some fine wet dry paper and
contoured and finish sanded the repairs. Worked like a champ.
I got work to do to to get ready for MV and beyond. Kinda waiting on some
decent weather so work under my shade tree.
john h
January 29, 2009 - February 25, 2009
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-hz