Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-id
April 08, 2009 - April 20, 2009
> I watched the video of the firefly as well, which looks like it probably
was flown on the same day. The gusty/thermally weather was definitely
evident in that video........
>
> LS
The Fire Fly video was made several years ago at Lakeland. It was a
beautiful airplane built and painted by Bryan Milborn.
I was also fortunate to be the demo pilot for this FF. I had forgotten how
windy and rough the air was that year. The video clearly demonstrates I had
my hands full, but the little FF performed like a champ that it is.
A young lady bought the FF for her 92 year old adventurer grand father at
the show. I never got to fly it again, nor did I ever see it again. I did
hear that it was neglected, not flown, and considerable damage was done by
children playing in it. It was a fantastic show plane and well as a flyer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SFhiQRlGwA&feature=related
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: V.W.conversion |
See Valley Engineering - not sure if they offer full VW engine but
they have a nice redrive for the VW engine - the difference of engine
with one is quite noticeable if you seen a before the redrive and
then after. Wow!
jerb
At 04:53 PM 4/8/2009, you wrote:
>
>Anyone have an idea wich would be the more satisfying , Great plains ,
>Revmaster, or some other?
>Frank Goodnight
>Firestar 2
>On Apr 8, 2009, at 4:38 PM, Thom Riddle wrote:
>
>>
>>I don't know where I got the "typical draw while cranking the 912ul
>>is about 75 amps." from but it was way off for our 912UL per testing
>>this morning.
>>
>>Using clamp on ammeter I got ~13 amps current during cranking our
>>912UL at about 45-50F OAT.
>>
>>I hope this figure helps with at least a ballpark guestimate.
>>
>>--------
>>Thom Riddle
>>Buffalo, NY
>>http://riddletr.googlepages.com/sportpilot-cfi
>>http://riddletr.googlepages.com/a%26pmechanix
>>
>>A complex system that works is invariably found to have evolved from
>>a simple system that works.
>> - John Gaule
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Read this topic online here:
>>
>>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238378#238378
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 ULS starter |
Using clamp on ammeter I got ~13 amps current during cranking our 912UL at
about 45-50F OAT.
>>>>>>>>>>>>..
I have never seen a clamp on dc amp meter.
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Victoria Falls |
Do you fly the trike from the back seat?>>
Hi John,
Perhaps more accurately `being flown`. I know my limitations. I flew a
weightshift when I was considering changing from gliding to
ultralighting and although I managed OK when I had time to think about
it I decided that one day when I dropped out of the bottom of the glide
slope 10 ft above the ground, I would push instead of pull by reflex and
that was a complication i could do without.
I have seen young instructors step out of weightshifts into 3 axis
machines with no trouble but I know I am not as switched on as I once
was. The guy who flew me round the Falls parked the weightshift and then
started up a six seat helicopter and flew a group back around the same
course.
Africa was a new experience for me. Starting from Capetown and working
north through Durban, Pretoria, Jo`berg, then to a Game Park and then
north again to Zambia it was noticeable that everything `slowed
up`.Hotel service fell off, organisation began to disintegrate. There
were several in our group including me who needed wheelchairs at
airports. It seemed to be beyond capability to get 4 wheelchairs in the
same place, at the same time to synchronise with a planes arrival or
departure.
>From a group of 40 with 2 pieces of luggage each and 4internal flights
they managed to lose 64 pieces for more than 24 hours and almost sent
the whole groups luggage back to Heathrow about halfway through the
trip.
Probably the most exciting bit was being chased by a massive she
elephant which decided that our 12 person Jeep was too close and
objected. She came out of the bush like a locomotive, ears up. trunk
out. We were facing her and the driver hit reverse and accelerated
backwards down the game trail at about 40 mph with the elephant bashing
on the hood with her trunk. We slowly outdistanced her and got round a
bend in the trail and relaxed when we realised she was still coming.
Away we wnt again until we reached aplace where we could turn round and
get out of there. Got some good pics though.
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Cowan" <tc1917(at)bellsouth.net> |
For those that have not been privy to my harmonics on my 912, here is the
following. The first thing I thought was wrong was the prop not being set
"right" so I developed a laser that sits on the tip of my blades, one at a
time, while I set them so they are near perfect. The blades themselves were
all different weights, one a different length and two had what looked like
cloth bumps showing. I sent them back and they came back better but still
not the same. One has a different twist at the middle and now has a smaller
tip. This is what WD thinks are good blades. I believe I have a set of
reject blades all thrown together. My personal belief. I sent them back
twice but they are still basically the same. I have been balancing large RC
props for thirty years and have never seen blades like these. I super
balanced them. Same problem. I super tuned the carbs -- three times! Not
the problem. I changed the angle of my titan exhaust outlets -- twice! I
added some angle sections to my pipes so the exhaust would not hit the
blades directly -- no joy. I have stainless tubes with holes on the ends of
my pipes and they do reduce the noise a bunch but I still have the
harmonics. I have taped the wing fabric top and bottom and checked all the
fittings, pieces and mounts for loose or dangling fabric. I changed my gap
seal three times. I started with no spacer, spent $450 for a four incher,
no help. That changed my balance where it was not desirable, dont know why.
I took it off and put a two inch spacer on and that seems to work good
except the harmonics are still there. I changed spark plug gaps and then
spark plugs. nothing helps. This harmonic sound does not increase in
beat, just intensity to the point where it actually beats on the back of my
helmet. My anr removes most of it so I can tolerate this noise. It is
noticeable from the ground as a rum rum rum sound like it out of tune. A
friend has a new set of WD props like mine down in Florida and I will try
them as soon as I get down there. If that makes it better then you can bet
I will call WD with the 'proof' and see what they will do. Right now I just
live with it. As far as changing type of prop -- well, how many of you have
an extra grand or more to just 'try' another prop? I dont. I should not
have to. I paid my money and should have a good prop. Like I said, I have
not absolutely proven it is the prop yet but I will. By the way, one blade
really shows the cloth weaving and I believe it is the culprit. Ever hear a
digery do or however it is spelled? That hum hum is what I am talking
about. Thought WD would replace it last time but they didnt. Not exactly
the service I would expect from such a reputable dealer. Guess I dont have
enough 'fame' to get good service from them. My life as it is. At least my
rum rum is accompanied by zoom zoom and that makes it worth it. Ted Cowan,
Alabama, Slingshot 912 UL. p.s. I still have a fifty buck reward for
someone with a cure. (something we have not already thought of or done)
Hauck is the first one for the blades being bad.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Eliminating harmonics |
Ted=2C
I have a couple of suggestions to try out=2C if you haven't already tried
these.
First=2C get a few lengths of plastic tubing=2C and tape the ends securel
y near where you think harmonics are coming from=2C like the exhaust tip=2C
near the prop hub=2C the motor mounts=2C etc. Place the other end inside
the cabin=2C so you can listen to each one during a test.
Whatever it is that is generating the harmonic vibration=2C it will be loud
est at the source.
Once you have the tubes secured=2C do a run up to the worst harmonic leve
l=2C and listen to each hose. Usually (!)=2C the noise source is much loud
er in one hose. Just a thought.....
Next=2C to help identify the source=2C change something (very slight). I
f you think the prop is likely the culprit=2C try taping the entire leading
edge of each blade with duct tape. It'll only be on for a few seconds=2C
so I don't think it should hurt a thing!!
With three exact lengths of duct tape=2C place them on the leading edge o
f the blades=2C splitting the middle of the tape down the sharp edge of the
blade. Do a worst case harmonic run-up=2C and see if things change (harmo
nics are better or worse). It's a good chance that the duct tape will chan
ge the prop blades enough to alter their effect at creating a harmonic reso
nance. The tape will change the blade's profile=2C balance (very slight!!)
=2C and performance.
A quick run-up should give you an idea about whether or not the blades ar
e the cause. Remove the tape.
Mike Welch
MkIII
_________________________________________________________________
Internet Explorer 8 ' Get your Hotmail Accelerated. Download free!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)ATT.NET> |
- I am doing some planning before ordering the stits materials for the Fi
restar.- Has anyone used the lightweight fabric- 1.7 ounce?- How was th
e durability?- Both sets of the previous coverings were 2.7 ounce.- One
was Aerothane, and one was Polytone.- UV protection is not a prime conce
rn in Connecticut, so I can go with the lighter weight paint jobs.- I am
going to go with Polytone, not only for weight but for ease of application
and repair.- Also, I hold the record for bad paint jobs.
- Also, if I cover the pod, should I use the heavier fabric there?- Lot
s of minor bashing could be expected while climbing in and out, and abrasio
n from leaning into it.-
- Another question, not mentioned in the book- What about UV protection o
n the inside of the pod fabric?- There is no mention of the exterior coat
ing protecting all the way through, and the fabric there is exposed to more
sunlight.-
-
-------------------------
-------------------------
Bill Sullivan
-------------------------
-------------------------
Windsor Locks, Ct.
-------------------------
-------------------------
FS 447
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 ULS starter |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Scott,
The Rotax 912 Installation manual states that the regulator is rated for 75 Amps
continuous and that is where my aging memory got the 75 A number. The #6GA wire
is what the installation manual calls for too, I believe. The manual also
states that the battery required is 18AH.
My clamp on meter is nearly new. Compared to two other meters I've tested it against
recently, it is accurate, so 13 Amps cranking current is what I'm getting.
I suspect it would be a bit higher in colder weather and a little less in the
summer.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY
http://riddletr.googlepages.com/sportpilot-cfi
http://riddletr.googlepages.com/a%26pmechanix
A complex system that works is invariably found to have evolved from a simple system
that works.
- John Gaule
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238466#238466
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
tc1917(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
> For those that have not been privy to my harmonics on my 912, here is the
> following. The first thing I thought was wrong was the prop not being set
> "right" so I developed a laser that sits on the tip of my blades, one at a
> time, while I set them so they are near perfect. The blades themselves were
> all different weights, one a different length and two had what looked like
> cloth bumps showing. I sent them back and they came back better but still
> not the same. One has a different twist at the middle and now has a smaller
> tip. This is what WD thinks are good blades. I believe I have a set of
> reject blades all thrown together. My personal belief. I sent them back
> twice but they are still basically the same. I have been balancing large RC
> props for thirty years and have never seen blades like these. I super
> balanced them. Same problem. I super tuned the carbs -- three times! Not
> the problem. I changed the angle of my titan exhaust outlets -- twice! I
> added some angle sections to my pipes so the exhaust would not hit the
> blades directly -- no joy. I have stainless tubes with holes on the ends of
> my pipes and they do reduce the noise a bunch but I still have the
> harmonics. I have taped the wing fabric top and bottom and checked all the
> fittings, pieces and mounts for loose or dangling fabric. I changed my gap
> seal three times. I started with no spacer, spent $450 for a four incher,
> no help. That changed my balance where it was not desirable, dont know why.
> I took it off and put a two inch spacer on and that seems to work good
> except the harmonics are still there. I changed spark plug gaps and then
> spark plugs. nothing helps. This harmonic sound does not increase in
> beat, just intensity to the point where it actually beats on the back of my
> helmet. My anr removes most of it so I can tolerate this noise. It is
> noticeable from the ground as a rum rum rum sound like it out of tune. A
> friend has a new set of WD props like mine down in Florida and I will try
> them as soon as I get down there. If that makes it better then you can bet
> I will call WD with the 'proof' and see what they will do. Right now I just
> live with it. As far as changing type of prop -- well, how many of you have
> an extra grand or more to just 'try' another prop? I dont. I should not
> have to. I paid my money and should have a good prop. Like I said, I have
> not absolutely proven it is the prop yet but I will. By the way, one blade
> really shows the cloth weaving and I believe it is the culprit. Ever hear a
> digery do or however it is spelled? That hum hum is what I am talking
> about. Thought WD would replace it last time but they didnt. Not exactly
> the service I would expect from such a reputable dealer. Guess I dont have
> enough 'fame' to get good service from them. My life as it is. At least my
> rum rum is accompanied by zoom zoom and that makes it worth it. Ted Cowan,
> Alabama, Slingshot 912 UL. p.s. I still have a fifty buck reward for
> someone with a cure. (something we have not already thought of or done)
> Hauck is the first one for the blades being bad.
Well I do have to defend WD a little bit here. Yeah it's wierd if they're not fixing
malformed blades for you, but I can't say their service has been any problem
for me.
After all, my plane does have that big ol "Experimental" sticker plastered onto
the side of it. So ultimately, the plane is an experiment, so I have to keep
in mind and take that responsibility. Things are just going to come up if I have
to make changes.
In my case, I'm just going to have to keep "experimenting", that's just how it
is with experimental. Its on me to do the work here and I can't expect everyone
else or even WD to know exactly what's wrong with my setup. I kind of have
to take the bull by the horns and get to work on things for which others might
not have ready answers. That's kind of how life is in general in fact, and is
no reflection on anyone else...
If this particular prop wont' work, it just wont work and that'll just be a consequence
of my particular setup.
It sure isn't the fault of the prop. I've used WD before (on my FSII) and it was
a superb prop. This one I have is impeccably made and I sure can't argue with
the performance.
But I am going to try different prop types. At this point I've exhausted most other
things to try tho there are still a couple more things to try. But that's
just how it goes with our flying machines...
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238472#238472
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
Ted
I have chased noise issues with my VW over the years and think that the
engine mount is the area that you may want to look into. Try softer
vibration dampers or move them around so that they isolate engine/prop
vibrations better and still control the position of the engine/prop.
My VW high mount had the lowest noise in the cockpit and lest vibration
transmitted to the airframe. The redrive I was using at that time would
vibration crack engine parts quite regularly yet the noise level in the
cockpit was so low that sometimes I could take my headphones off for short
periods of time in flight. The engine was real loose on the mount allowing
the engine to visibly twist away from the torque applied to the prop. After
about a hundred hours the vibration dampers were destroyed.
When I designed the lower VW engine mount I used a damper system that placed
the dampers further apart to better control the engine and extend the life
of the dampers. It worked but the noise and vibration in the cockpit
increased so much that I had to use ear plugs under my ANR headsets. Since
then I have reduced the vibrations a bunch and the noise a bit with a
smoother redrive. I'm now on a quest for softer damper bushings.
Food for thought and as always worth what you paid for it.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Cowan" <tc1917(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 6:35 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: vibrations
>
> For those that have not been privy to my harmonics on my 912, here is the
> following. The first thing I thought was wrong was the prop not being set
> "right" so I developed a laser that sits on the tip of my blades, one at a
> time, while I set them so they are near perfect. The blades themselves
> were all different weights, one a different length and two had what looked
> like cloth bumps showing. I sent them back and they came back better but
> still not the same. One has a different twist at the middle and now has a
> smaller tip. This is what WD thinks are good blades. I believe I have a
> set of reject blades all thrown together. My personal belief. I sent
> them back twice but they are still basically the same. I have been
> balancing large RC props for thirty years and have never seen blades like
> these. I super balanced them. Same problem. I super tuned the carbs --
> three times! Not the problem. I changed the angle of my titan exhaust
> outlets -- twice! I added some angle sections to my pipes so the exhaust
> would not hit the blades directly -- no joy. I have stainless tubes with
> holes on the ends of my pipes and they do reduce the noise a bunch but I
> still have the harmonics. I have taped the wing fabric top and bottom and
> checked all the fittings, pieces and mounts for loose or dangling fabric.
> I changed my gap seal three times. I started with no spacer, spent $450
> for a four incher, no help. That changed my balance where it was not
> desirable, dont know why. I took it off and put a two inch spacer on and
> that seems to work good except the harmonics are still there. I changed
> spark plug gaps and then spark plugs. nothing helps. This harmonic
> sound does not increase in beat, just intensity to the point where it
> actually beats on the back of my helmet. My anr removes most of it so I
> can tolerate this noise. It is noticeable from the ground as a rum rum
> rum sound like it out of tune. A friend has a new set of WD props like
> mine down in Florida and I will try them as soon as I get down there. If
> that makes it better then you can bet I will call WD with the 'proof' and
> see what they will do. Right now I just live with it. As far as changing
> type of prop -- well, how many of you have an extra grand or more to just
> 'try' another prop? I dont. I should not have to. I paid my money and
> should have a good prop. Like I said, I have not absolutely proven it is
> the prop yet but I will. By the way, one blade really shows the cloth
> weaving and I believe it is the culprit. Ever hear a digery do or however
> it is spelled? That hum hum is what I am talking about. Thought WD would
> replace it last time but they didnt. Not exactly the service I would
> expect from such a reputable dealer. Guess I dont have enough 'fame' to
> get good service from them. My life as it is. At least my rum rum is
> accompanied by zoom zoom and that makes it worth it. Ted Cowan, Alabama,
> Slingshot 912 UL. p.s. I still have a fifty buck reward for someone with
> a cure. (something we have not already thought of or done) Hauck is the
> first one for the blades being bad.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "robcannon" <leecannon(at)telus.net> |
Ted - I took some training last summer in a Rans S 12 in preparation for my Kolb
first flight. (it was the only high thrust line pusher around). It has the
same harmonics you describe (annoying in the cockpit, and annoying on the ground)
It has a Rotax 912 with a three blade "kool"prop. They have over 1700 hours
on this plane and motor, and they have accepted this thrum thrum thrum and part
of the package. When I flew it I just chose a throttle setting that minimized
it the most.
Don't get me wrong here, if I were in your shoes I would not give up untill I
had a explanation/solution, but it may not be the warp drive that is the culprit.
good luck, Rob Cannon
ps: Rans has probably sold more 912 pushers than most - I would call up their tech
support guy and see what he says.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238478#238478
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 912 ULS starter |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
The 912 installation manual also shows a 300A peak (1 second max) for the regulator.
I was reading continuous cranking amps, not peak starting current.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY
http://riddletr.googlepages.com/sportpilot-cfi
http://riddletr.googlepages.com/a%26pmechanix
A complex system that works is invariably found to have evolved from a simple system
that works.
- John Gaule
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238480#238480
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture control... |
>
>
>Jack
>
> See your post and am reminded...how is the mixture control
>coming...? IMHO...not only does it promise a bit better fuel burn
>through better mixture control...but also may allow us to dial out
>the egt peak as we drop below 5k rpms? Perhaps make the engine less
>susceptible to seizures...?
>
Herb,
For flying this winter and spring, so far, have been mean weather wise.
Most of the time my cold weather gear was used to blow snow. Spent most of
the winter in my basement shop working on stuff to try this spring. Most of
it is weight reduction stuff.
I flew for the first time in March with the new filter cover (ram scoop)
positioned at about sixty degrees up from horizontal. But I took no
pressure measurements. I was not able influence EGT with the cover in this
position. This got me to thinking about what to do to increase the positive
pressure over the float bowl. I realized that it would be better to
reference this pressure off something in the carburetor. I removed the
carburetor and put a static pressure tap plus a positive dynamic pressure
tap into the carburetor inlet. If the static tap does not do the job, I
will move to the positive dynamic tap. Since this will produce much more
pressure than needed, I will run the line to simple liquid bubble pressure
regulator to obtain constant but ground adjustable pressure. By adding the
filter air scoop to recover filter pressure loss, I have complicated things,
and so I will have to run quite a few flight tests to record air filter
pressure drops at various engine speeds and scoop positions. Then I will be
able to get back to working with the mixture control.
I remain very excited about the mixture control. The ability to adjust EGT
in flight lets one dial in the same burn rate for a given engine rpm. One
does not have sweat "should I have added fuel" thoughts. I have wondered
how it would work on a Rotax 447, but for me it is too late for that. I am
running this engine at much higher EGT than I did the Rotax.
The Victor had the same problem as you described for below 5,000 rpm. At
first I thought it was a leaky exhaust coupler. I modified the system and
changed clamps. Still the same problem. Out of frustration, I started
looking at the Bing. I noticed how the slide was polishing and concluded
the throttle return spring was too weak, and the slide needle assembly was
bouncing. Went to a heavier spring and things looked better. Then I
decided to modify the carb needle. It was an eye opener. I was able get a
flat EGT across the whole cruise rpm range. This proves to me that no
engine manufacturer can tell you what needle jet combination is correct for
every given application and it is unfair expectation. What they recommend
may work on the test bench, but one must consider this is just a starting
point.
Rambling. The snow blower is off and the mower is ready to go.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
That hum hum is what I am talking
> about. Thought WD would replace it last time but they didnt. Not exactly
> the service I would expect from such a reputable dealer. Guess I dont
> have enough 'fame' to get good service from them. My life as it is. At
> least my rum rum is accompanied by zoom zoom and that makes it worth it.
> Ted Cowan, Alabama, Slingshot 912 UL. p.s. I still have a fifty buck
> reward for someone with a cure. (something we have not already thought of
> or done) Hauck is the first one for the blades being bad.
I've offered several suggestions since Ted C has had the harmonic problem.
Guess none of them worked.
Also offered to try my WD off my airplane.
I believe the place to start is remove the suspect prop and hub. Put
another WD prop on from a setup that has no problem. Test it. If it
developes the same problem, then it is not the prop. If the problem
disappears, then you have more ammunition to go back to WD and get a
replacement prop.
I also recommended contacting Daryl to request another prop and hub to use
for a test. I have a good feeling he would do that to see that his
customers are satisfied.
I don't think 'fame' has a thing to do with getting good service from WD.
This company has been in business for many years, and not because they
mistreated their customers or because they sold inferior products.
While I am recommending, highly recommend you give Daryl a call at
1-800-833-9357. I reminded him of your problem. He would be glad to
discuss it with you.
john h
mkIII - 60 west of Ted Cowan's airstrip.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 912 ULS starter |
The regulator should no be in the circuit when starting... I was
thinking about the current draw when starting motors... couple of
seconds......:-) Ohms law ... The fractional resistance of a
conductor becomes appreciable at high currents which results in a
proportionate voltage drop.... Herb
At 08:35 AM 4/9/2009, you wrote:
>
>The 912 installation manual also shows a 300A peak (1 second max)
>for the regulator.
>
>I was reading continuous cranking amps, not peak starting current.
>
>--------
>Thom Riddle
>Buffalo, NY
>http://riddletr.googlepages.com/sportpilot-cfi
>http://riddletr.googlepages.com/a%26pmechanix
>
>A complex system that works is invariably found to have evolved from
>a simple system that works.
> - John Gaule
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238480#238480
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
Hi William ;
I covered my firestar 2 with 1.7 oz fabric about a year ago. I
fold , unfold, and trailer my
plane every time I fly. I know it's my fault , but it seems like I get
a new ,bang, bump , cut,
scrape, or ding every week. 2.7 may not help much but it sure can't
hurt. If I were doing it
over again I would use 2.7oz.
I don't know much about a/c covering but I would use polytone because
it's easy to repair
and I'm not interested in pretty or shiny. As for uv protection- the
whole covering and paint
process- was enough of a pain in the butt that I would use plenty of
silver so I would not
have to recover for a LONG LONG time.
I did not cover my cage and don't use a nose bowl or windscreen. The
main trouble with
with that is the wind noise interfears with my hand held radio. The A/
C flys fine. Maybe
some ultra star drivers can help [ please] .
I share your thoughts about cage cover and uv protection . Why
protect the outside of
the fabric when the sun shines on the inside and destroys the fabric
from there?
Frank Goodnight
Firstar 2
HKS 75 hrs
On Apr 9, 2009, at 7:14 AM, william sullivan wrote:
> I am doing some planning before ordering the stits materials for
> the Firestar. Has anyone used the lightweight fabric- 1.7 ounce?
> How was the durability? Both sets of the previous coverings were
> 2.7 ounce. One was Aerothane, and one was Polytone. UV protection
> is not a prime concern in Connecticut, so I can go with the lighter
> weight paint jobs. I am going to go with Polytone, not only for
> weight but for ease of application and repair. Also, I hold the
> record for bad paint jobs.
> Also, if I cover the pod, should I use the heavier fabric there?
> Lots of minor bashing could be expected while climbing in and out,
> and abrasion from leaning into it.
> Another question, not mentioned in the book- What about UV
> protection on the inside of the pod fabric? There is no mention of
> the exterior coating protecting all the way through, and the fabric
> there is exposed to more sunlight.
>
> Bill Sullivan
> Windsor Locks, Ct.
> FS 447
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Ted, borrowing other props for comparison would be my first choice
too. I know I wouldn't
be happy if I had paid for new blades and got blades that didn't even
look cosmetically perfect.
The "proof" approach is the way to go.
I also have a rum rum but I have noticed that some of it may be my
hearing. I hear it just walking up the driveway, in time with my
heartbeat.
Something to go along with my tinnitus.
If you have a two blade WD hub that would be a good thing to try.
That reminds me
to order a two blade hub for my powerfin. I sure would like to be
able to keep the
70" two blade WD on my suzuki because it gives me what seems like 10
hp better performance than the
3 blade 65" powerfin I had on before.
Mix match and compare.
BB
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture control... |
Good info Jack...much appreciated...
you may be the only engineer in the world working to improve 2
strokes... :-)
I haven't experimented but I suspect that the egt peak in the
high 4k range occurs when the needle/needle jet drops in influence
and we begin to go fully onto the main ... a transition point at
abt 3/4 throttle..
I think I have also noticed that some props tend to load/unload
at certain rpm ranges and effect egts...Herb
> >
>
>Herb,
>
>For flying this winter and spring, so far, have been mean weather wise.
>Most of the time my cold weather gear was used to blow snow. Spent most of
>the winter in my basement shop working on stuff to try this spring. Most of
>it is weight reduction stuff.
>
>I flew for the first time in March with the new filter cover (ram scoop)
>positioned at about sixty degrees up from horizontal. But I took no
>pressure measurements. I was not able influence EGT with the cover in this
>position. This got me to thinking about what to do to increase the positive
>pressure over the float bowl. I realized that it would be better to
>reference this pressure off something in the carburetor. I removed the
>carburetor and put a static pressure tap plus a positive dynamic pressure
>tap into the carburetor inlet. If the static tap does not do the job, I
>will move to the positive dynamic tap. Since this will produce much more
>pressure than needed, I will run the line to simple liquid bubble pressure
>regulator to obtain constant but ground adjustable pressure. By adding the
>filter air scoop to recover filter pressure loss, I have complicated things,
>and so I will have to run quite a few flight tests to record air filter
>pressure drops at various engine speeds and scoop positions. Then I will be
>able to get back to working with the mixture control.
>
>I remain very excited about the mixture control. The ability to adjust EGT
>in flight lets one dial in the same burn rate for a given engine rpm. One
>does not have sweat "should I have added fuel" thoughts. I have wondered
>how it would work on a Rotax 447, but for me it is too late for that. I am
>running this engine at much higher EGT than I did the Rotax.
>
>The Victor had the same problem as you described for below 5,000 rpm. At
>first I thought it was a leaky exhaust coupler. I modified the system and
>changed clamps. Still the same problem. Out of frustration, I started
>looking at the Bing. I noticed how the slide was polishing and concluded
>the throttle return spring was too weak, and the slide needle assembly was
>bouncing. Went to a heavier spring and things looked better. Then I
>decided to modify the carb needle. It was an eye opener. I was able get a
>flat EGT across the whole cruise rpm range. This proves to me that no
>engine manufacturer can tell you what needle jet combination is correct for
>every given application and it is unfair expectation. What they recommend
>may work on the test bench, but one must consider this is just a starting
>point.
>
>Rambling. The snow blower is off and the mower is ready to go.
>
>Jack B. Hart FF004
>Winchester, IN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net> |
- Frank- No nose cone on the FS II?- What do you use for an instrument
panel?- Dana flies an Ultrastar without a nose cone or windshield.- Vis
ibility unlimited.
-
-------------------------
--------------- Bill Sullivan
-------------------------
--------------- Windsor Locks, Ct.
-------------------------
---------------- FS 447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
Bill, I built a small alu box that is between my knees, just forward
of the stick [copy of the one Bryan built for the firefly that won 1st
place at sun & fun last year ] it holds my ASI, ALT.Skidball&
compass . My EIS & switches are mounted in a 3 x 6 box that is mounted
just forward of the
throttle and is level with the top cage rail .it is outside the cage.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar2
HKS 75 hrs
On Apr 9, 2009, at 1:16 PM, william sullivan wrote:
> Frank- No nose cone on the FS II? What do you use for an
> instrument panel? Dana flies an Ultrastar without a nose cone or
> windshield. Visibility unlimited.
>
> Bill Sullivan
> Windsor Locks, Ct.
> FS 447
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net> |
- Frank-- Interesting arrangement.- What's your cruise speed?- Wind
in your face bother you, with no cone or shield?- FS II is a lot faster
than an Ultrastar.
-
-------------------------
------------------- Bill Sullivan
-------------------------
------------------- Windsor Locks, Ct
.
-------------------------
------------------- FS 447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Frank-- Interesting arrangement.- What's your cruise speed?- Wind
in
your face bother you, with no cone or shield?- FS II is a lot faster
than an Ultrastar.
Not always. Ed Steuber's US was fast. Haven't heard from him since
he got a steady job.
BB
ed's ultra
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: now an actual Kolb question |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
John Hauck wrote:
>
> The Fire Fly video was made several years ago at Lakeland. It was a
> beautiful airplane built and painted by Bryan Milborn.
>
> I was also fortunate to be the demo pilot for this FF. I had forgotten how
> windy and rough the air was that year. The video clearly demonstrates I had
> my hands full, but the little FF performed like a champ that it is.
>
> A young lady bought the FF for her 92 year old adventurer grand father at
> the show. I never got to fly it again, nor did I ever see it again. I did
> hear that it was neglected, not flown, and considerable damage was done by
> children playing in it. It was a fantastic show plane and well as a flyer.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SFhiQRlGwA&feature=related
>
> john h
> mkIII
Wow.... the more I watch this vid, the more I want a FF.......
Tho that's currently plan A for the 2nd-plane thing anyway...
I'm 5'7" about 200lbs. How would I fit in the FF?
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238542#238542
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos" <grageda(at)innw.net> |
Hi Ted,
While I dont have any personal experience with a 912, I do have a few
suggestions of a general nature.
Check the gearbox oil of your engine to see if every thing is okay. Perhaps
there is a bearing or gear that is causing your grief. Any metal in the gear
oil is not a good sign and warrants a tear down of the gearbox.
Check the runout of the propeller drive flange to see that it is running
true. Also check to see if there is any play or slop in the drive that
shouldn't be there. In general terms, some gearboxes have preloads and no
play while others require a small amount to operate properly. The Rotax
manuals may call out the details for your gearbox.
Have you checked the compression of the cylinders to see if they are okay?
Uneven compression maybe causing harmonics in your engine.
A fixed pitch wood prop would be less costly alternative to a composite if
you have to purchase one for testing.
Again these are a few general items I would look at if I was having your
troubles.
Good Luck and let us know when you have found the problem.
Best Regards
Carlos G
AKA
BaronVonEvil.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Cowan" <tc1917(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 3:35 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: vibrations
>
> For those that have not been privy to my harmonics on my 912, here is the
> following. The first thing I thought was wrong was the prop not being set
> "right" so I developed a laser that sits on the tip of my blades, one at a
> time, while I set them so they are near perfect. The blades themselves
> were all different weights, one a different length and two had what looked
> like cloth bumps showing. I sent them back and they came back better but
> still not the same. One has a different twist at the middle and now has a
> smaller tip. This is what WD thinks are good blades. I believe I have a
> set of reject blades all thrown together. My personal belief. I sent
> them back twice but they are still basically the same. I have been
> balancing large RC props for thirty years and have never seen blades like
> these. I super balanced them. Same problem. I super tuned the carbs --
> three times! Not the problem. I changed the angle of my titan exhaust
> outlets -- twice! I added some angle sections to my pipes so the exhaust
> would not hit the blades directly -- no joy. I have stainless tubes with
> holes on the ends of my pipes and they do reduce the noise a bunch but I
> still have the harmonics. I have taped the wing fabric top and bottom and
> checked all the fittings, pieces and mounts for loose or dangling fabric.
> I changed my gap seal three times. I started with no spacer, spent $450
> for a four incher, no help. That changed my balance where it was not
> desirable, dont know why. I took it off and put a two inch spacer on and
> that seems to work good except the harmonics are still there. I changed
> spark plug gaps and then spark plugs. nothing helps. This harmonic
> sound does not increase in beat, just intensity to the point where it
> actually beats on the back of my helmet. My anr removes most of it so I
> can tolerate this noise. It is noticeable from the ground as a rum rum
> rum sound like it out of tune. A friend has a new set of WD props like
> mine down in Florida and I will try them as soon as I get down there. If
> that makes it better then you can bet I will call WD with the 'proof' and
> see what they will do. Right now I just live with it. As far as changing
> type of prop -- well, how many of you have an extra grand or more to just
> 'try' another prop? I dont. I should not have to. I paid my money and
> should have a good prop. Like I said, I have not absolutely proven it is
> the prop yet but I will. By the way, one blade really shows the cloth
> weaving and I believe it is the culprit. Ever hear a digery do or however
> it is spelled? That hum hum is what I am talking about. Thought WD would
> replace it last time but they didnt. Not exactly the service I would
> expect from such a reputable dealer. Guess I dont have enough 'fame' to
> get good service from them. My life as it is. At least my rum rum is
> accompanied by zoom zoom and that makes it worth it. Ted Cowan, Alabama,
> Slingshot 912 UL. p.s. I still have a fifty buck reward for someone with
> a cure. (something we have not already thought of or done) Hauck is the
> first one for the blades being bad.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mixture control... |
>
>
> Good info Jack...much appreciated...
>
> you may be the only engineer in the world working to improve 2
>strokes... :-)
>
> I haven't experimented but I suspect that the egt peak in the
>high 4k range occurs when the needle/needle jet drops in influence
>and we begin to go fully onto the main ... a transition point at
>abt 3/4 throttle..
>
> I think I have also noticed that some props tend to load/unload
>at certain rpm ranges and effect egts...
>
Herb,
If I had not been forced into using a two stroke, I would be flying a four
stroke. In the past I was influenced by what has been written about two
strokes. I have found that there is a lot of misinformation out there. A
lot of it came directly from the EAA by picking an expert that was not a
flyer but was a two cycle motorcycle man. When the two cycle engine is
placed on an airframe, one does not have to worry about quick throttle
response time. Most of the time the engine is run at constant speed with
short bursts of max output for take off and climb out.
As for 4k rpm EGT peaking, I do not believe it has anything to do with the
main jet. After mounting throttle slide position indicator, I found that
both the Rotax 447 and the Victor will develop max engine speed at around
40% of the throttle opening. This is just where the main jet starts to pick
up. Checking my flight notes I had recorded 5,000 rpm at 25% and 4,500 rpm
at 20% carb opening. In this range the Bing is under the influence of the
pilot(idle) jet, slide cutaway and the needle position. This gives a couple
of things that can be done to adjust the carburetor. One cannot adjust the
cutaway but you can lean and richen the mixture about 50 degrees EGT with
the idle mixture control. The other and I consider the best choice was to
modify the needle between the 20% to 40% region. This has worked out very
well. All of this indicates the carb size is much too large, but one just use
what is available and fit or refit the needle to your specific application.
My disappointment is that I had to figure this out. But it has made me much
more excited about flying a two stroke engine. It has moved me from a
piston port to reed valve engine. I have discovered I can run this engine
at higher EGT than the Rotax 447. The reason for this is advanced
technology and design. With ceramic cylinder coating lets you run a tighter
fitting piston due to both being made of aluminum alloys with a common
temperature expansion ratio. Liquid cooling is a pain, but it helps get more
heat away from the cylinder as apposed to a steel liner in aluminum
interfacing directly with air. Running a tuned exhaust helps with engine
breathing and the reduction of unburnt fuel in the exhaust. This type of
engine design is supposed to be less prone to cold seizure. Before I added
the fuel mixture control, I had problems of the engine quitting on final
after a long low throttle decent. Idle jet adjustments did not seem to
help. After adding the mixture control, I can fly the FireFly down at
cruise speed, close the throttle and land without the engine quitting. This
technique keeps the carburetor throat warmer and less prone to icing.
Best of all, the Victor is running at half the fuel flow rate of my Rotax
447. Could I have gotten to this point with the Rotax 447? I don't know.
The next question is why doesn't Bing added this mechanism in or to the
carburetor and make it a true aircraft carburetor?
Not flying enough - Rambling #2
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
At 03:32 PM 4/9/2009, william sullivan wrote:
> ...Wind in your face bother you, with no cone or shield? FS II is a
> lot faster than an Ultrastar.
In the UltraStar, I wouldn't say the wind _bothers_ me, per se, but it's
fatiguing after awhile. I always fly with some kind of glasses, though,
either sunglasses or clear safety glasses... not only do my eyes tear too
much otherwise, not to mention that a bug'd be painful at 50mph!.
I do have a clear face shield for my helmet, but I was careless with it and
it got scratched... I've since polished it out but I haven't flown again
since then (but Spring's here, yee hah!)
-Dana
--
Change is inevitable, except from a vending machine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
We have a couple MK III's here at my field, and both of us have had to do a mod
to reduce the noise inside the cockpit. Built by the plans, there is an open
space from the prop that makes the cockpit act like a resonant bell, the noise
was HUGE ! My " Neighbor " put a piece of clear lexan behind the seats, where
a headrest would be if he had one. This simple, one piece of flat lexan made
a huge difference in making his cockpit noise tolerable. His noise reduction
worked so well, that I went a lot of steps further and enclosed the entire
cabin of my plane, above and rear, and put sound dampening in the lower fabric
in the cage behind the seats where it faces the prop. I also have sound dampening
on the rear lexan windows. In other words, I put sound dampening in any
part of my cage on my plane that " Sees " or faces towards the the prop at anything
less than a 90 degree angle. John Haucks MK III is pretty much like this,
with all rear areas enclosed. This made a huge reduction in the noise level.
I use ANR headsets, but don't need any earplugs. I wonder if you have a
typical loud hum hum that would be hardly noticeable with some noise prevention
measures. Its hard to tell how severe this is, or if its typical without hearing
it first hand and comparing it to other Kolbs with a similar setup.
My warp drive prop is perfect. Did you check the tracking on the tips of your
prop, all three blades should be within 1/16 of an inch or so. My Rotax 912-S
/ prop is as smooth as silk, smoother than any other piston engine I have flown
behind. I can barely feel it running if I place my hand on the cage tubing.
I have had several occasions to deal with Warp Drive, and they have always
been more than fair, and gone the extra mile as far as I am concerned. There
are lots of warp drive props on experimental airplanes, it is very rare to hear
anything bad about them. It is possible to get a combination of equipment that
will not work well together, but there are such a huge number of Warp Drive
/ 912-S combos flying, that I don't believe this should be problematic combo.
Maybe time to look more at the airframe ??
P.S. Going from a 4 inch spacer to the two inch spacer you have now is a such
very small change of CG, I don't see how this could possibly have any meaningful
impact on the flying qualities of the airplane. You must have miscalculated
something or not have a full understanding of effect this has on CG. Anyways,
the 4 inch spacer on the prop is far better than a two inch spacer, for a
number of reasons. I would most definitely use the 4 inch spacer... Just off
the top of my head, I think two extra inches on the prop spacer would equal
less than one pound of weight added to the nose IF you wanted to keep the same
CG.. Thats a rough guess off the top of my head, it would be easy to calculate
given your WB information and prop weight. In other words, its negligible
and I would not even bother with such a small change. The longer spacer is much
better for a pusher setup like found on our Kolbs.
Gook luck chasing this down, like Lucien said, we did sign up for Experimental
aviation, and it can make you want to beat your head against a wall sometimes.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238553#238553
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: now an actual Kolb question |
that's currently plan A for the 2nd-plane thing anyway...
>
> I'm 5'7" about 200lbs. How would I fit in the FF?
>
> LS
>
> --------
> LS
No problem fitting in a FF.
We've had much larger folks than that fly them. Brian Blackwood, former
co-owner of TNK, probably went close to 250. He flew the pants off the
factory FF.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
JetPilot wrote:
> We have a couple MK III's here at my field, and both of us have had to do a mod
to reduce the noise inside the cockpit. Built by the plans, there is an open
space from the prop that makes the cockpit act like a resonant bell, the noise
was HUGE ! My " Neighbor " put a piece of clear lexan behind the seats,
where a headrest would be if he had one. This simple, one piece of flat lexan
made a huge difference in making his cockpit noise tolerable. His noise reduction
worked so well, that I went a lot of steps further and enclosed the entire
cabin of my plane, above and rear, and put sound dampening in the lower fabric
in the cage behind the seats where it faces the prop. I also have sound dampening
on the rear lexan windows. In other words, I put sound dampening in any
part of my cage on my plane that " Sees " or faces towards the the prop at
anything less than a 90 degree angle. John Haucks MK III is pretty much like
this, with all rear areas enclosed. This made a huge reduction in the noise level.
I use ANR headsets, but don't need any earplugs. I wonder if you have
a typical loud hum hum that would be hardly noticeable with some noise prevention
measures. Its hard to tell how severe this is, or if its typical without
hearing it first hand and comparing it to other Kolbs with a similar setup.
>
> My warp drive prop is perfect. Did you check the tracking on the tips of your
prop, all three blades should be within 1/16 of an inch or so. My Rotax 912-S
/ prop is as smooth as silk, smoother than any other piston engine I have flown
behind. I can barely feel it running if I place my hand on the cage tubing.
I have had several occasions to deal with Warp Drive, and they have always
been more than fair, and gone the extra mile as far as I am concerned. There
are lots of warp drive props on experimental airplanes, it is very rare to hear
anything bad about them. It is possible to get a combination of equipment
that will not work well together, but there are such a huge number of Warp Drive
/ 912-S combos flying, that I don't believe this should be problematic combo.
Maybe time to look more at the airframe ??
>
> P.S. Going from a 4 inch spacer to the two inch spacer you have now is a such
very small change of CG, I don't see how this could possibly have any meaningful
impact on the flying qualities of the airplane. You must have miscalculated
something or not have a full understanding of effect this has on CG. Anyways,
the 4 inch spacer on the prop is far better than a two inch spacer, for
a number of reasons. I would most definitely use the 4 inch spacer... Just
off the top of my head, I think two extra inches on the prop spacer would equal
less than one pound of weight added to the nose IF you wanted to keep the same
CG.. Thats a rough guess off the top of my head, it would be easy to calculate
given your WB information and prop weight. In other words, its negligible
and I would not even bother with such a small change. The longer spacer is
much better for a pusher setup like found on our Kolbs.
>
> Gook luck chasing this down, like Lucien said, we did sign up for Experimental
aviation, and it can make you want to beat your head against a wall sometimes.
>
>
>
> Mike
For what it's worth, according to Daryl, the tracking need only be within about
5/16" max. 1/4" is typical, my current one and the one I had on my FS II were
about 1/4" off (the one on my FS II was smooth as glass).
I'd personally try to keep the spacer as short as possible. A long spacer adds
a signficant amount of arm to the Coriolis forces the prop imposes on the prop
shaft. Every little bit helps to preserve our gearboxes even tho they're still
strong as stink.....
My FSII was unbelievably loud in the cockpit and sure enough it was open at the
rear. Wish I'd had my telex ANR headset back when I had that plane......
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238562#238562
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ElleryWeld(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 912 ULS starter |
You can buy one from a Snap-on tool dealer you just lay the meter on the
wire if the wire is the right size it will snap on to it and you can als
o
get one to test your charging system from snap-on I have both of these
meters in my Tool box that I have been using for years and they are a gre
at rig
to have
Ellery in Maine
In a message dated 4/9/2009 12:10:42 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
by0ung(at)brigham.net writes:
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "b young"
Using clamp on ammeter I got ~13 amps current during cranking our 912UL
at
about 45-50F OAT.
>>>>>>>>>>>>..
I have never seen a clamp on dc amp meter.
Boyd
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edir=http:%2F
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
My FSII was unbelievably loud in the cockpit and sure enough it was
open at the rear. Wish I'd had my telex ANR headset back when I had that
plane......
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
For what its worth, on my trip to Texas with Arty, I used the full
enclosure on my Firestar. That is the full windshield and the fabric
with the convertible type window in it. It cut my maximum speed to 60
MPH. Without it and using the full windshield I gained 7 MPH. It might
be quieter, but I am not willing to take the cut in top speed.
Larry C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: now an actual Kolb question |
Lucien
I am 6'2" and 200 lbs...The Firefly is just fine...Very comfortable
on trips of 60 to 100 miles...Herb
Wish I could fly it like John does!! :-)
At 03:11 PM 4/9/2009, you wrote:
>
>
>John Hauck wrote:
> >
> > The Fire Fly video was made several years ago at Lakeland. It was a
> > beautiful airplane built and painted by Bryan Milborn.
> >
> > I was also fortunate to be the demo pilot for this FF. I had
> forgotten how
> > windy and rough the air was that year. The video clearly
> demonstrates I had
> > my hands full, but the little FF performed like a champ that it is.
> >
> > A young lady bought the FF for her 92 year old adventurer grand father at
> > the show. I never got to fly it again, nor did I ever see it
> again. I did
> > hear that it was neglected, not flown, and considerable damage was done by
> > children playing in it. It was a fantastic show plane and well as a flyer.
> >
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SFhiQRlGwA&feature=related
> >
> > john h
> > mkIII
>
>
>Wow.... the more I watch this vid, the more I want a FF.......
>Tho that's currently plan A for the 2nd-plane thing anyway...
>
>I'm 5'7" about 200lbs. How would I fit in the FF?
>
>LS
>
>--------
>LS
>Titan II SS
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238542#238542
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: now an actual Kolb question |
> I am 6'2" and 200 lbs...The Firefly is just fine...Very comfortable
> on trips of 60 to 100 miles...Herb
>
>
> Wish I could fly it like John does!! :-)
Are you sure?
Didn't look like I was doing so well, yanking and banking to get it back on
the ground in the video clip at Lakeland. ;-)
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: now an actual Kolb question |
You got her on the ground in flying condition on a tough day...I
would bet that not much else was flying from the ul field...Herb
At 09:50 PM 4/9/2009, you wrote:
>
>
> > I am 6'2" and 200 lbs...The Firefly is just fine...Very comfortable
>>on trips of 60 to 100 miles...Herb
>>
>>
>> Wish I could fly it like John does!! :-)
>
>
>Are you sure?
>
>Didn't look like I was doing so well, yanking and banking to get it
>back on the ground in the video clip at Lakeland. ;-)
>
>john h
>mkIII
>
>_-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: now an actual Kolb question |
> You got her on the ground in flying condition on a tough day...I
> would bet that not much else was flying from the ul field...Herb
We had a good reputation, Kolb Aircraft, to fly when everybody else at OSH
and S&F were on the ground. We felt this was a true demonstration of the
ability of the Kolb line of airplanes. This was true 25 years ago when I
was drooling on the ground watching a teenager, by the name of Dennis
Souder, put the hot, new Kolb Ultrastar through its paces at the tiny grass
strip at S&F March 1984. It was the best performer there. Nothing could
touch it. My kit was waiting on me when I returned home to Alabama. Three
months later I was drooling on my own US. ;-)
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | zeprep251(at)aol.com |
Larry,
??? I ran into the same speed problem with my FS2 full enclosure.When I tried to
pick up speed by lowering the nose a little,the enclosure tore loose from the
right side of the windshield former? tube and entered the propeller arc.I was
lucky enough to drag it back into the cabin and continue to my field.It put
1 big gash in the clear vinyl part of the enclosure but it was repairable and
a lesson was learned.I have no idea why it did not wad up in the prop and create
the scenario that is going thru your mind right now,I really don't.
???????????????????? G Aman former FS2 driver.It's still my favorite Kolb.
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Cottrell <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com>
Sent: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 8:01 pm
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: vibrations
?
My FSII was unbelievably loud in the cockpit and sure enough it was open
at the rear. Wish I'd had my telex ANR headset back when I had that
plane......
LS
--------
LS
Titan II
SS
For what its worth, on my trip to Texas
with Arty, I used the full enclosure on my Firestar.?That is the full
windshield and the fabric with the convertible type window in it. It cut my
maximum speed to 60 MPH. Without it and using the full windshield I gained 7
MPH. It might be quieter, but I am not willing to take the cut in top
speed.
Larry C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Cowan" <tc1917(at)bellsouth.net> |
Thanks people. Got a lot of good ideas to work with. I might mention here
that I have talked to WD about this problem before and I decided that having
them send a set of props out and having to send them back used, was not a
good solution. (they did not volunteer to do it) If I had more PROOF that
this was the problem I would do it in a heart beat. My friend down in
Panama City has a new set to put on his slingshot 912 when it gets installed
so if I used his, it is already set up for him. Good for him. Good for me.
Good are to test it too. Nothing like a casual stroll above the beach. I
thought about changing the vibration dampers, there are only four but which
way? Harder, softer. Dont think I want that 912 wandering around up there
hither and throw. The way the mounts are, there is not much option. I
misphrased the CG problem with a four inch spacer. I should have said it
changed the flying and landing characteristics of the plane. If it had
worked, I would have kept it but it made it squirely. You have to remember,
this SS is very short coupled and it seemed the prop being back that little
bit affected everything, including torque on take off. The two inch
actually improved it. Didnt really need one but I spent so much money on it
and the four incher going back to kolb that I decided to keep it on. The
idea of listening tubes taped up everywhere for run up is a good idea, going
to try that. I also like the idea of taping up the leading edge of the
blades. That I can do without going to Florida. But having a good reason
to fly to florida is always a good idea. So, I will keep on trucking and
see if I can figure this out. Oh, yeah, according to the gear box plug,
there is absolutely no metal being eaten in there and I have almost a
hundred and fifty hours on the engine. Hauck was concerned that the gear
box spacers were not right. He still may be correct. I WILL find the
answer someday. I do know that there are many others out there making the
noise I have. I am also going to check the compression. Another good idea.
I wonder, if it has a different cylinder comp., what do I do then? Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Hauck" <jimh474(at)embarqmail.com> |
Ted;
When you went from the 582 to the 912, did you use the same lord mounts that
you used for the 582?
If so this may be your harmonic problem.
Jim Hauck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Which would be more likely to be a cause, too flexible or too firm?
BB
On 10, Apr 2009, at 8:40 AM, Jim Hauck wrote:
>
> Ted;
>
> When you went from the 582 to the 912, did you use the same lord
> mounts that you used for the 582?
>
> If so this may be your harmonic problem.
>
> Jim Hauck
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
Can anybody tell me the torque value for the ULII-02 exhaust manifold
bolts? It's not listed in the service manual anywhere I can find and I
want to pull it off to drill and move the EGT probe to the correct location
while I'm in there retorquing the cylinder base bolts.
-Dana
--
Daddy, why doesn't this magnet pick up this floppy disk?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cuyuna torque |
It should be the same for a bolt of the same size on any other part
of the engine...or the same size and type bolt on anything else...? Herb
At 08:09 AM 4/10/2009, you wrote:
>
>Can anybody tell me the torque value for the ULII-02 exhaust
>manifold bolts? It's not listed in the service manual anywhere I
>can find and I want to pull it off to drill and move the EGT probe
>to the correct location while I'm in there retorquing the cylinder base bolts.
>
>-Dana
>--
> Daddy, why doesn't this magnet pick up this floppy disk?
>
>
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>04/09/09 19:01:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Victoria Falls |
I am thinking that he should adopt me and take me along on some of these
trips.>>
Hi Larry,
i would make a pretty cantankerous father figure these days. I shouldn`t
risk it.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Bumped into this old photo while looking for something else.
I believe this was taken on Bonneville Salt Flats, Utah, May 2007.
The black line used for speed runs on the flats, is visible in the photo,
running right below John W's Kolbra.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Landing at Bernard Airstrip along the Salmon River in the mountains of
Central Idaho, 2008. John W took this photo.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Victoria Falls |
That's OK, I am pretty grumpy myself. :-)
Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: pj.ladd
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2009 7:52 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Victoria Falls
I am thinking that he should adopt me and take me along on some of
these trips.>>
Hi Larry,
i would make a pretty cantankerous father figure these days. I
shouldn`t risk it.
Pat
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
04/09/09 10:27:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Sun & Fun 2009 NOTAM |
Here's the url for the S&F 2009 NOTAM:
http://www.faaproductionstudios.com//SNF%20Arrival%20Proceedures%20Notam/2009%20SUN%20N%20FUN%20NOTAM%20final%20color.pdf
Scroll down to page 25 for UL/Lt Planes.
We got a whole page this year, half of page is diagram of UL /Lt Plane
Arrival and Departures.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Arty is still in Van Horn, TX, waiting on her wingman to complete
installation of a used 582 he bought on Ebay.
If they have favorable weather, they'll make S&F on time.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Kulp <undoctor(at)ptd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Back to gascolators |
**
Dave,
It is a primer tap. See:
http://www.andair.co.uk/pdfs/GAS01.pdf
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
Thanks Dana, Mike, Mike and Jack. KNOWING makes all the difference! Now I can
proceed. I had my
Cuyuna shut off inexplicably on my US. Never could find out why, although I think
a rebuilt fuel
pump had something to do with it. But the experience kind of makes you sensitive
to "unknowns"...
and to the "sound of silence."
Dave Kulp
Bethlehem, PA
FireFly 11DMK
**
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net> |
- Mike and I were talking off List about the large price difference betwe
en ACS cheap 1.8 ounce Dacron, and the Poly Fiber 1.7 ounce at twice the pr
ice.- Does anyone know why the large difference?- Quality control?- D
oes anyone have any experience comparing the two?
-
-------------------------
------------------------ Bi
ll Sullivan
-------------------------
------------------------ Wi
ndsor Locks, Conn.
-------------------------
------------------------ FS
447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Cuyuna exhaust rubber mounts |
Anybody know a source for the rubber bushings that are used to mount the
Cuyuna muffler to the brackets that attach to the cylinder head? I'm
guessing, but am not sure, that it's not a Kolb specific mounting.
-Dana
--
There is always a law against doing anything interesting.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cuyuna exhaust rubber mounts |
> Anybody know a source for the rubber bushings that are used to mount the
> Cuyuna muffler to the brackets that attach to the cylinder head? I'm
> guessing, but am not sure, that it's not a Kolb specific mounting.
>
> -Dana
Improvise!
You can get shock rubber bushings, muffler hanger rubber donuts, shock
absorber donuts, at your local front end and muffler shop.
Or...give Travis Brown a call at TNK. He has some male and female rubber
donuts that should get the job done.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cuyuna exhaust rubber mounts |
Ah ha!! Just found that the engine isolators for the Hummel bird
are sway bar end links... I bought a package of 4 for 5 bucks at
O'Rileys...auto parts..1.25 in in dia and a reasonable through hole..
Just google sway bar end links...comes with large cupped washers ...Herb
At 06:43 PM 4/10/2009, you wrote:
>
>Anybody know a source for the rubber bushings that are used to mount
>the Cuyuna muffler to the brackets that attach to the cylinder
>head? I'm guessing, but am not sure, that it's not a Kolb specific mounting.
>
>-Dana
>--
> There is always a law against doing anything interesting.
>
>
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>04/10/09 18:27:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ElleryWeld(at)aol.com |
1.7 oz uncertified & The certification ink stamped on the fabric with the
Certs for the fabric Probably? that would be my thoughts
Ellery
In a message dated 4/10/2009 5:03:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
williamtsullivan(at)att.net writes:
Mike and I were talking off List about the large price difference
between ACS cheap 1.8 ounce Dacron, and the Poly Fiber 1.7 ounce at twice the
price. Does anyone know why the large difference? Quality control? Does
anyone have any experience comparing the two?
Bill Sullivan
Windsor Locks, Conn.
FS 447
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
hmpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooterNO62)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
Ellery=2C
Nope!! That isn't the difference. Even the 1.7 oz Poly Fiber fabric des
cription says it does NOT come stamped or certified for anything.
The following is from their website:
UNCERTIFIED LIGHT
72" Width P/N 09-02001 $7.65 Request Quote /Lineal Yd.
1.87 oz.=2C lightweight fabric recommended for covering ultralight aircraft
. This fabric will be unstamped. It is not approved for certified aircraft.
Mike Welch
From: ElleryWeld(at)aol.com
Date: Fri=2C 10 Apr 2009 21:35:56 -0400
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Stits
1.7 oz uncertified & The certification ink stamped on the fabric with the
Certs for the fabric Probably? that would be my thoughts
Ellery
In a message dated 4/10/2009 5:03:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time=2C williamt
sullivan(at)att.net writes:
Mike and I were talking off List about the large price difference between
ACS cheap 1.8 ounce Dacron=2C and the Poly Fiber 1.7 ounce at twice the pr
ice. Does anyone know why the large difference? Quality control? Does an
yone have any experience comparing the two?
Bill Sullivan
Windsor Locks=2C Conn.
FS 447
f="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List">http://www.matronics.com
/Navigator?Kolb-List
ms.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
tp://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps!
_________________________________________________________________
Rediscover Hotmail=AE: Get e-mail storage that grows with you.
http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_
Storage1_042009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
If the harmonic is coming from some airframe part and is a result of engine/prop
vibrations, then the engine/prop vibrations being transmitted to this airframe
part would be lessened if the mounts were a little softer. In any case a change
in mount stiffness would change the natural harmonic frequency which might
make the current troubling sound go away, go to a different pitch, go to a different
part of the airframe or get worse. Difficult to predict.
Assuming the prop is statically balanced, blades pitched equally, and tracked properly,
the next step I would consider is dynamic engine/prop balancing. Doing
so may solve your problem at the source, which would be the best solution. Many
class D and bigger airports with reasonably complete maintenance shops have
the capability to do dynamic engine/prop balancing. Last time I checked local
prices it was about $250.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY
http://riddletr.googlepages.com/sportpilot-cfi
http://riddletr.googlepages.com/a%26pmechanix
A complex system that works is invariably found to have evolved from a simple system
that works.
- John Gaule
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238690#238690
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> That is a great picture! Any chance you could send me the full size
version of this pic via email?
> Thanks,
Scott:
If I can find my original file, it will be on the way.
If John W took this photo, then we are out of luck.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
You mentioned that John H. mentioned the gear box spacers, this makes several different
people that I have heard mention this. The others were not on the Kolb
list, but it seems to be something important with the 912. I am not sure
what the symptom is if the spacing is out of tolerance, but I will ask. The SS
seems like an interesting plane, it would probably leave all of us behind.
What speed and and RPM 's do you use for both long range and high speed cruise
? What are you approach and landing speeds ?
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238698#238698
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: V.W.conversion |
| From: | "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)hughes.net> |
The engine Great Plains offers is probably the way to go. The owner, Steve, has
a good background on these engines and can offer most anything you'll need to
make the engine perform. He is also presently working on his own version of
the water cooled heads. Attached is a picture of my engine that I'm fitting
up on my MXIII. The re-drive is a must for good performance and is well made.
It cost around $1600.00. You will engine up with a good engine that should
perform on your Kolb at only 1/3 the price of a Rotax, especially if you go with
the water cooled heads.
Rick Lewis
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238708#238708
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/misc_pics_050_185.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/vw_engine_036_677.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 4/10/2009 8:20:23 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
herbgh(at)nctc.com writes:
A Firefly needs its fabric treated with a 50-50 mix of brush
and spray...after the first coat of poly brush is applied in the
normal way...and use 50-50 til you are satisfied that the uv
protection is good... Two cross coats is good enough IMHO
... you are trying to make weight after all... and this stuff does add
wt...
the cost difference is because of the paper trail that certified
fabric must have I think...mainly... Herb
Herb,
That sounds like a great idea! I wish I had heard that idea
before I covered My Firefly! Has this process been tested for longevity in the
sunlight ? How long has this process been proven to hold up in sunlight
compared to the 3 full cross-coats Stits recommends ?
Ed FF #62 ( In Houston )
**************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10
or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
I am Rebuilding a C box...I notice that the input shaft and prop
shaft both have spacers/shims ...They are important such that too
much clearance will allow hammering with throttle changes...This
will result in an accelerated wear factor which will gradually affect
the case...or enclosure.and bearings and gear lash.......Herb
At 07:50 AM 4/11/2009, you wrote:
>
>You mentioned that John H. mentioned the gear box spacers, this
>makes several different people that I have heard mention this. The
>others were not on the Kolb list, but it seems to be something
>important with the 912. I am not sure what the symptom is if the
>spacing is out of tolerance, but I will ask. The SS seems like an
>interesting plane, it would probably leave all of us behind. What
>speed and and RPM 's do you use for both long range and high speed
>cruise ? What are you approach and landing speeds ?
>
>Mike
>
>--------
>"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as
>you could have !!!
>
>Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238698#238698
>
>
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>04/11/09 10:51:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: V.W.conversion |
Hi Rick.
good pictures . Who makes your redrive? Thanks for answering my
question.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar2
HKS power
On Apr 11, 2009, at 10:23 AM, Rick Lewis wrote:
>
> The engine Great Plains offers is probably the way to go. The
> owner, Steve, has a good background on these engines and can offer
> most anything you'll need to make the engine perform. He is also
> presently working on his own version of the water cooled heads.
> Attached is a picture of my engine that I'm fitting up on my MXIII.
> The re-drive is a must for good performance and is well made. It
> cost around $1600.00. You will engine up with a good engine that
> should perform on your Kolb at only 1/3 the price of a Rotax,
> especially if you go with the water cooled heads.
>
> Rick Lewis
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238708#238708
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/misc_pics_050_185.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/vw_engine_036_677.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
>
>If the harmonic is coming from some airframe part and is a result of
engine/prop vibrations, then the engine/prop vibrations being transmitted to
this airframe part would be lessened if the mounts were a little softer. In
any case a change in mount stiffness would change the natural harmonic
frequency which might make the current troubling sound go away, go to a
different pitch, go to a different part of the airframe or get worse.
Difficult to predict.
>
..........................
Just to add a few thoughts. It all has to do with energy inputs. The
greater the HP and the lighter (less stiff) the air frame the greater the
chance is for harmonic vibrations to develop. Every air frame and or
components will have some natural frequency. But there is an energy input
threshold that must be passed before the frame will resonate that is related
to structural stiffness. It is similar to unbalanced aileron flutter where
a certain speed (energy level) must be reached before there is an onset of
flutter.
So what is the driving energy force? Well it is the engine and the
propeller. They cause a twisting in the mounts directly proportional to the
average torque being developed. Superimposed on top of the average torque
is periodic torque variation that is caused by engine cylinder firing
impulse. The amplitude variation is dependent upon torque resistance
(springiness) of the crank shaft and crankshaft load. This load will be the
gear box or propeller. As one increases crankshaft load more and more of
the torque variation must be transferred to the engine mounts and dissapated
though the supporting structure.
So what are the choices? One could add more cylinders for a given average
torque, and this would reduce the torque variation component magnitude so
that will not exceed the airframe threshold. One can de couple the engine
and propeller by moving to softer mounts. One can back off the throttle a
little and reduce the torque variation amplitude, and in doing so miss match
frequencies. This may also be accomplished by changing gear box ratios or
changing the number of propeller blades.
Another way to reduce the torque variation amplitude transmitted to the
airframe is to add some kind of dampening in between the engine and the
propeller. Also one can reduce inertial load seen by the crankshaft (less
twisting). Just because an engine gear box or reduction unit can tolerate a
certain level of propeller inertia does not mean that it is the correct or
desired combination for all airframes. By lowering propeller inertia for
the same power output means lower energy dissipation to the air frame. A
more flexible the propeller will give further improvement, by absorbing some
of the crank torque variation amplitude from the crank and there by not being
passed on to the airframe.
One last comment. On the FireFly, I had some noise problems. Streamlining
the struts removed a constant bass strumming noise. The Victor 1+ being a
one cylinder engine, it shakes things a bit. I found that it really excited
the inboard aileron hinges. When I took all the play from the aileron
hinges and control system, things became quieter. Also, I discovered the
soft wing gap seal fluttered. Tube stiffeners in the front and rear cross
seams to care of it.
FWIW
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
ACS cheap 1.8 ounce Dacron, and the Poly Fiber 1.7 ounce at twice the
price. >>
In the Uk we have recently approved for a/s use a covering which is pre
coloured. It is applied and then heat shrunk in the way modellers have
been doing for some time.
Apparently expensive but cheaper than fabric plus paint and certainly
cheaper in terms of time taken.
For what its worth
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
At 05:26 AM 4/12/2009, pj.ladd wrote:
> ACS cheap 1.8 ounce Dacron, and the Poly Fiber 1.7 ounce at twice the
>price. >>
>
>In the Uk we have recently approved for a/s use a covering which is pre
>coloured. It is applied and then heat shrunk in the way modellers have
>been doing for some time.
>
>Apparently expensive but cheaper than fabric plus paint and certainly
>cheaper in terms of time taken.
Oratex, it's called... one of the guys over on
http://homebuiltairplanes.com recently got some samples; he wasn't
impressed with the appearance.
-Dana
--
Alpha test version: too buggy to release. Beta test version: still too
buggy to release. Release 1.0: alternate pronounciation of beta test
version.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
In the Uk we have recently approved for a/s use a covering which is pre
coloured. It is applied and then heat shrunk in the way modellers have been
doing for some time.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
Is it treated someway for UV protection? If so how long should it last if
exposed to sunlight?
Boyd Young
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)pa.net> |
Hi Pat,
Sounds very interesting!
Does the fabric have a name? Source?
Thanks
Dennis
_____
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pj.ladd
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 5:26 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Stits
ACS cheap 1.8 ounce Dacron, and the Poly Fiber 1.7 ounce at twice the
price. >>
In the Uk we have recently approved for a/s use a covering which is pre
coloured. It is applied and then heat shrunk in the way modellers have been
doing for some time.
Apparently expensive but cheaper than fabric plus paint and certainly
cheaper in terms of time taken.
For what its worth
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Not saying Herb's method won't work, but it is not the prescribed method
for the Polyfiber System.
Personally, I'll continue to cover and process like the book dictates.
Don't won't to take chances with improperly processed fabric to save a
nickle.
john h
mkIII
A Firefly needs its fabric treated with a 50-50 mix of brush
and spray...after the first coat of poly brush is applied in the
normal way...and use 50-50 til you are satisfied that the uv
protection is good... Two cross coats is good enough IMHO
... you are trying to make weight after all... and this stuff does
add wt...
Herb,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 10:26:25 +0100
>
In the Uk we have recently approved for a/s use a covering which is pre
coloured. It is applied and then heat shrunk in the way modellers have been
doing for some time.
Apparently expensive but cheaper than fabric plus paint and certainly
cheaper in terms of time taken.
>
Pat,
Thansk for the tip.
Googled it and found: http://www.g-tlac.com/oratex.html
Claims to weight 120 gram per square meter -> 4.6 ounces per square yard
with no painting required. The "Benefit" list is outstanding.
Spec and instruction manual downloads can be found at this site.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
John
My understanding..and I may be incorrect ...is that the Firefly
(and that is all that was only airframe I meant to discuss) can go
overweight very easily...with the proscribed paint method... Herb
At 03:36 PM 4/12/2009, you wrote:
>Not saying Herb's method won't work, but it is not the prescribed
>method for the Polyfiber System.
>
>Personally, I'll continue to cover and process like the book
>dictates. Don't won't to take chances with improperly processed
>fabric to save a nickle.
>
>john h
>mkIII
>
>
> A Firefly needs its fabric treated with a 50-50 mix of brush
>and spray...after the first coat of poly brush is applied in the
>normal way...and use 50-50 til you are satisfied that the uv
>protection is good... Two cross coats is good enough IMHO
>... you are trying to make weight after all... and this stuff does add wt...
>
>
> Herb,
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
I don't think not following instructions on application of Polyfiber
products has anything to do with making part 103 weight with a FF.
My concern has nothing to do with FF weight. My primary concern is for
me to apply the products as described in their manual. Then I don't
have to worry about a problem arising some where down the road.
I covered my original FS with 1.6 Stitts. It was difficult to work with
because the threads, warp and weave, was so tight, additional
lubrication was required to keep from burning the threads during the
weaving process. Very light and puntured very easy. Had a hell of a
time trying to keep the poly brush from fish eyeing. Vowed never to use
it again. I think the disignation was HS90X.
I have also used generic fabric, to save a buck. Be careful and buy
generic fabric (not certified with an FAA stamp) from a reputable
aviation supply house. You want to use "virgin" polyester dacron,
dacron that has not been preshrunk.
Every time I hear of someone bending the rules a little with fabric
application I think of Steve Whitman and his wife dying because he did
not follow instructions. I also think of the fabric we pulled from a
FSII a couple years ago that was painted with automobile paint. The
fabric had lost nearly all of its pull/tear resistance. Was really
scary. I had flown that airplane, I think. ???
john h
mkIII
My understanding..and I may be incorrect ...is that the Firefly
(and that is all that was only airframe I meant to discuss) can go
overweight very easily...with the proscribed paint method... Herb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net> |
- John- What happened to Steve Whitman's aircraft?
-
-------------------------
--------------------- Bill Sulliv
an
-------------------------
--------------------- Windsor Loc
ks, Ct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
No, you hadn't flown it at that time. Unpucker!
Larry C
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 5:21 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Stits
I don't think not following instructions on application of Polyfiber
products has anything to do with making part 103 weight with a FF.
My concern has nothing to do with FF weight. My primary concern is
for me to apply the products as described in their manual. Then I don't
have to worry about a problem arising some where down the road.
I covered my original FS with 1.6 Stitts. It was difficult to work
with because the threads, warp and weave, was so tight, additional
lubrication was required to keep from burning the threads during the
weaving process. Very light and puntured very easy. Had a hell of a
time trying to keep the poly brush from fish eyeing. Vowed never to use
it again. I think the disignation was HS90X.
I have also used generic fabric, to save a buck. Be careful and buy
generic fabric (not certified with an FAA stamp) from a reputable
aviation supply house. You want to use "virgin" polyester dacron,
dacron that has not been preshrunk.
Every time I hear of someone bending the rules a little with fabric
application I think of Steve Whitman and his wife dying because he did
not follow instructions. I also think of the fabric we pulled from a
FSII a couple years ago that was painted with automobile paint. The
fabric had lost nearly all of its pull/tear resistance. Was really
scary. I had flown that airplane, I think. ???
john h
mkIII
My understanding..and I may be incorrect ...is that the Firefly
(and that is all that was only airframe I meant to discuss) can go
overweight very easily...with the proscribed paint method... Herb
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
04/12/09 13:14:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirkds" <kirkds(at)dishmail.net> |
I haven't been on here in a couple of years. Used to go by snuffy. What happened
to John Williamson?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238836#238836
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Steve, in his 90's and his wife were flying back to OSH from Sun and
Fun. Somewhere over Tennessee, some fabric peeled off the aileron or
flap (I can not remember which), and the aircraft came apart in the air.
Come to find out, Steve had mixed different kinds of products and it
failed.
I tried to find some info on his accident, but to no avail. Any body
find it in the NTSB Accident Pages? I think it happened in 1994 or 95.
???
A little info on Steve:
http://www.air-racing-history.com/PILOTS/Steve%20Whittman.htm
john h
mkIII
John- What happened to Steve Whitman's aircraft?
Bill Sullivan
Windsor Locks,
Ct.
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: John Williamson |
| From: | "N111KX (Kip)" <n111kx(at)mindspring.com> |
Sorry to be the bearer...
http://ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief2.asp?ev_id 080530X00757&ntsbno=SEA08LA138&akey=1
He is missed...
--------
Kip
Firestar II, N111KX
Waiex, N111YX
Quickie 1, N111QX
Atlanta
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238842#238842
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: John Williamson |
| From: | "Kirkds" <kirkds(at)dishmail.net> |
:( So sorry to hear that.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238843#238843
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Steve Whittman Fatality and Fabric Processing |
Finally, came up with the date and NTSB page on the Steve Whittman accident:
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001207X03218&key=1
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
If I may:
Steve Wittman Accident
< The February Sport Aviation has a summary of the findings of
the NTSB on the cause of the crash of Steve Wittman=92s O&O Special
last April. To condense and simplify the article greatly, it
appeared that Steve painted the Poly-Fiber covering to the plywood
wing with the nitrate dope he had used for years with natural fiber
wing coverings, instead of with the approved Poly-Brush. The O&O
Special flew for 10 years. The NTSB believes that on the April trip
back to Oshkosh, the fabric in front of the right aileron finally
debonded and ballooned up, which caused the aileron and then both
wings to flutter. The wings separated from the aircraft. The
article stresses the importance of using components approved by the
manufacturer when covering an aircraft.>
Steve came from the era of nitrate dope and had used it for many
years on all his airplanes, racers included. Back then you had the
choice of nitrate or enamel.
Enamel had good flexibility but was awful to use and progressively
shrunk the fabric to the point of bending the underlying structures.
Nitrate had an extremely strong bond, dried fast and was shiny. The
big problem was brittleness so that thick applications would suffer
cracks in flex areas.
One infamous symptom was called "ringworm" because of the circular
cracks around projections. Even later when butyrate paint began
usage nitrate was
used for cementing fabric to structure. IMO the problem began with
polyester fabric. When "grade A" cotton went bad, the whole works,
fabric and paint got tossed.
Now we had fabric that would pass a punch test (don't ask me what I
thought of that procedure) for seemingly forever while the glue and
paint went bad.
Now the poly (vinyl) stuff seems to match up with endurance.
BB
On 12, Apr 2009, at 7:30 PM, william sullivan wrote:
> John- What happened to Steve Whitman's aircraft?
>
> Bill Sullivan
> Windsor Locks, Ct.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net> |
- Thanks, John.- Steve was an interesting character.- I thought the K
olbs were small, but that photo of one of his racers makes a Kolb look like
a transport plane.-
- I am going to stick with the Stits system.- Pat's system looks intere
sting for it's simplicity, but I do not have the experience to consider var
ying from an old standard.- I repaired several small areas that had Aerot
hane, and had no problems.- Appearance was satisfactory.- I am thinking
of Polytone in- the Piper Trainer Blue- as recommended for lightweight c
overings in the manual.- All options open while waiting out the weather.
-
-------------------------
-------------------------
Bill Sullivan
-------------------------
-------------------------
Windsor Locks, Ct.
-------------------------
-------------------------
FS 447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
Perhaps this may be of interest.
A fellow pilot friend of mine at our airport were talking this over the other day
and he suggested that I try putting the plane into a slip to see what would
happen.
I finally got a small hole in the winds/storms today and went around the patch,
I tried this on downwind a couple times in both directions. The rruurruurruurr
part of the noise sure enough went away. With the pedal near the floor it was
completely gone and there was just the higher frequency hum which I take to
be the blades hitting the relative wind.
So in my case, I'm coming back to the conclusion more and more that I don't have
a safety issue and it's probably ok. Fatigue, however, due to the increased
thrumming I already know is an issue tho I may eventually get used to that too.
But it's enough for me to keep working on it, I'm going to try a different prop
type to see what happens.
PS I spoke to another owner of my model plane who runs the WD and he reports the
same harmonics. He's running the 64" 3 blade taper tip (912ULS also) and is
not concerned about it.
So this may be a helpful diagnostic step to take in general (tho what exactly it
tells you I'm not sure ;)). In my case, it smoothed out in a slip indicating
there probably isn't any balance problem but it just has to do with that big
ol airplane in front of it disturbing the airflow.
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238849#238849
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
What's the real advantage of Stits over Ceconite/dope? Just the number of
coats required? I've repaired Ceconite (years ago) and Stits (last year)
but never covered an entire airplane.
One thing I noticed is that the Stits chemicals smell much more evil/toxic
than dope...though I realize that could be purely subjective, and I know
neither are really healthy.
-Dana
--
If there was any logic in this world, it would be men who ride
side-saddle, not women.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Steve Whittman Fatality and Fabric Processing |
That NTSB report is a CYA deal. Cotton fabric and nitrate glues and
dopes are still "approved".
In Steve's case he had cemented cotton over plywood. This was the
usual way to finish such planes with
wood wings such as the Bellanca and Mooney. Nothing lasts forever.
BB
On 12, Apr 2009, at 9:21 PM, John Hauck wrote:
>
> Finally, came up with the date and NTSB page on the Steve Whittman
> accident:
>
> http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001207X03218&key=1
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Steve Whittman Fatality and Fabric Processing |
> That NTSB report is a CYA deal. Cotton fabric and nitrate glues and
> dopes are still "approved".
> In Steve's case he had cemented cotton over plywood. This was the usual
> way to finish such planes with
> wood wings such as the Bellanca and Mooney. Nothing lasts forever.
> BB
Bob:
Reread the report. Steve put down nitrate on top of the plywood, then
dacron, then more natrate, Stitts stuff, etc. I didn't see anything about
cotton.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Steve Whittman Fatality and Fabric Processing |
That sounds right. Nitrate dope is absorbed into cotton whereas
dacron won't suck up much of anything.
Stits, ceconite and the AS cheap stuff are all dacron with possibly a
different thread texture or weave.
All the old methods, including using Rando-bond to glue dacron are
still legal as far as I know, whether
a good choice or not. Old methods get grandfathered while some new
and better ideas have to fight for recognition.
You can still legally scarf splice a wooden spar with casein (dried
milk protein) glue but I would prefer
a later product.
BB
On 12, Apr 2009, at 10:08 PM, John Hauck wrote:
>
>
> > That NTSB report is a CYA deal. Cotton fabric and nitrate glues and
>> dopes are still "approved".
>> In Steve's case he had cemented cotton over plywood. This was
>> the usual way to finish such planes with
>> wood wings such as the Bellanca and Mooney. Nothing lasts forever.
>> BB
>
>
> Bob:
>
> Reread the report. Steve put down nitrate on top of the plywood,
> then dacron, then more natrate, Stitts stuff, etc. I didn't see
> anything about cotton.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
I was chewing gum and painting Poly Tone , using a breating device
that had charcoal filters..It fit well below mouth and around nose
up to fore head... I noticed after a while that the chewing gum
began to disolve..:-) Acetone and Mek.... in the brew...Herb
At 08:35 PM 4/12/2009, you wrote:
>
>What's the real advantage of Stits over Ceconite/dope? Just the
>number of coats required? I've repaired Ceconite (years ago) and
>Stits (last year) but never covered an entire airplane.
>
>One thing I noticed is that the Stits chemicals smell much more
>evil/toxic than dope...though I realize that could be purely
>subjective, and I know neither are really healthy.
>
>-Dana
>--
> If there was any logic in this world, it would be men who ride
> side-saddle, not women.
>
>
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>04/12/09 13:14:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Steve Whittman Fatality and Fabric Processing |
________________________________
From: John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 9:08:18 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Steve Whittman Fatality and Fabric Processing
> That NTSB report is a CYA deal. Cotton fabric and nitrate glues and
> dopes are still "approved".
> In Steve's case he had cemented cotton over plywood. This was the usual way
to finish such planes with
> wood wings such as the Bellanca and Mooney. Nothing lasts forever.
> BB
Bob:
Reread the report. Steve put down nitrate on top of the plywood, then dacron,
then more natrate, Stitts stuff, etc. I didn't see anything about cotton.
john h
mkIII
The story I remember from when it happened went like this:
With the older brand of the synthetic covering, the weave was open enough that
the procedure was to just put the cement on through the fabric to activate the
previously applied cement on the structure.
The newer brand/process had a much tighter weave & the cement couldn't flow through,
so it had to be applied wet under the fabric. Story was, Steve was used
to the old process & because he didn't put the on the cement wet under the fabric,
there was inadequate adhesion; finally failing after years of flying.
I could be wrong; it's happened before (I'm told).
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Steve Whittman Fatality and Fabric Processing |
| From: | "The BaronVonEvil" <grageda(at)innw.net> |
Hi All,
In the NTSB report, they indicated Steve had mixed layers of dope and Stits Polyfiber.
Nitrate dope is a cellulose base product while Polyfiber is a vinyl based
material.
Basically there was no continuity between the layers of dope and polyfiber( that
is to say they didn't bond together).
Yes , dope, cotton and polyfiber are "approved" but they should never be used
with one another but only applied as a complete single system or process.
Steve was an icon of aviation and has been greatly missed but, even people of his
great experience and skills make mistakes.
I hope that we can all learn something from this sad lesson.
Carlos G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238866#238866
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FireFly - Stits - Weight - Wheels-Tires & Optional Items |
We went over weight with our Firefly but we made that choice. It can
make the weight - I feel we could have but you don't get much in the
way of extras to do it. We silvered all surfaces with more on top
(two coats) for greater UV protection.
If I recall right when I measured the assembled instrument panel it
weighed right near15#. Had a 3-1/8" airspeed, a 3-1/8" sensitive
altimeter, a electric Variometer (VSI) - (nice & fast reacting), and
G-Meter (heavy little critter) and a few other things. One thing
where a builder of the FireFly can save weight is wheels, we went
with Kolb 6" wheel barrow style wheels with Shin (thin) tires. Later
upgraded to higher quality bearings to reduce the brakes from
grabbing. It had Azusa style internal expansion brakes. I think
there using plastic wheels on them now, I like the 6 inch wheels
better, doesn't work the gear as hard on turf. The FireFly doesn't
need powerful brakes so lighter band brakes with drums rather than
heavy internal expansion type could be used. Another thing is I used
to ride a motor cycle back 35 years ago, but my partner and I found
the wind in a UL is much worst we so added the wrap over front part
of the full enclosure. Much nicer and faster too. Never installed
the flexible vinyl rear portion of the full enclosure.
One note of interest is the tires used on the FireFly. The person
who bought the plane from us thought it was a little touchy on ground
control. My partner and I were both experienced tail wheel pilots
and didn't think it was bad. He claimed with the 400x6's on there,
as soon as you made any power change, it wanted to veer off one way
or the other, and wanted to do it NOW. That made him more than a
little nervous about flying and landing, as he had no tail dragger
time. He went up to the 600x6 tires on the same wheels and it made a
world of difference. Got em from Aircraft Spruce under the
Ultralight Tires section. Reported that with the 600x6's that
problem is all but gone.
jerb
At 05:06 PM 4/12/2009, you wrote:
>John
>
> My understanding..and I may be incorrect ...is that the Firefly
> (and that is all that was only airframe I meant to discuss) can go
> overweight very easily...with the proscribed paint method... Herb
>
>
>At 03:36 PM 4/12/2009, you wrote:
>>Not saying Herb's method won't work, but it is not the prescribed
>>method for the Polyfiber System.
>>
>>Personally, I'll continue to cover and process like the book
>>dictates. Don't won't to take chances with improperly processed
>>fabric to save a nickle.
>>
>>john h
>>mkIII
>>
>>
>> A Firefly needs its fabric treated with a 50-50 mix of brush
>>and spray...after the first coat of poly brush is applied in the
>>normal way...and use 50-50 til you are satisfied that the uv
>>protection is good... Two cross coats is good enough IMHO
>>... you are trying to make weight after all... and this stuff does add wt...
>>
>>
>> Herb,
>
>
><http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
><http://www.matronics.com/contribution>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net> |
Herb,
I believe your concern comes from the fact the factory warns to be
careful so as not to over apply coatings because their weight adds
up. Got to keep in mind that plane was designed to meet the UL
weight limit with minimum features and moderate paint.
If you going to apply multiple thick coats of silver and thick top
coats to archive a super smooth, high gloss paint appearance it will
add weight. After applying heavier coats of silver to top of all
surfaces and little lighter coats to the underneath sides, then
applying top coats, our paint had just a very slight signature of the
weave showing. It looked good then and still did when we sold it 8
years later.
jerb
At 05:06 PM 4/12/2009, you wrote:
>John
>
> My understanding..and I may be incorrect ...is that the Firefly
> (and that is all that was only airframe I meant to discuss) can go
> overweight very easily...with the proscribed paint method... Herb
>
>
>At 03:36 PM 4/12/2009, you wrote:
>>Not saying Herb's method won't work, but it is not the prescribed
>>method for the Polyfiber System.
>>
>>Personally, I'll continue to cover and process like the book
>>dictates. Don't won't to take chances with improperly processed
>>fabric to save a nickle.
>>
>>john h
>>mkIII
>>
>>
>> A Firefly needs its fabric treated with a 50-50 mix of brush
>>and spray...after the first coat of poly brush is applied in the
>>normal way...and use 50-50 til you are satisfied that the uv
>>protection is good... Two cross coats is good enough IMHO
>>... you are trying to make weight after all... and this stuff does add wt...
>>
>>
>> Herb,
>
>
><http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
><http://www.matronics.com/contribution>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Cowan" <tc1917(at)bellsouth.net> |
To answer a couple of questions: I dont have any apparent slack in the prop
to indicate a loose gear set or too much gear lash. Might be a little too
tight going around but not to the point it is grinding metal. The motor
mounts are the ones supplied by the Kolb Factory with the 912. Took the 582
ones off. My normal cruise speed for the SS is around 82/85 indicated. I
can hit 90/95 in a heartbeat. Been over a hundred a couple of times at only
about 5400 rpm. my set up and aproach is around 70 indicated with touch
down somewhere around high 40s I think. at 60 you are still pretty much
flying although you have a sink rate. My normal roll out is somewhere
between 200 to 300 feet, close to take-off roll. Once the feet are down,
speed is lost very fast so there is not a lot of roll out. If I go in slow,
break it right away, I can stop in about 150 feet without even thinking of a
nose over. I love the tall landing legs and forward sweep. Like I said, if
it didnt make that awlful noise, I would have the perfect flying machine --
although it looks a little strange! When and if the wind and rain stops, I
will get to work on those great suggestions. I will let everyone know the
results for the archieves. Ted Cowan, Slingshot 912 ul.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | engine offset mount question |
| From: | "Jimmy Young" <jdy100(at)comcast.net> |
I have a question regarding offsetting an engine to compensate for prop wash on
rudder. Currently it takes a lot of right rudder to roll out straight on take
off. If I have a left to right crosswind, it takes full hard right rudder to
maintain a straight track. If I have a right to left crosswind, very little rudder
is required to keep her straight. My engine is offset slightly to the left
right now. I have about 3.75" from the prop to the aileron tube on the pilot's
left side, and about 4.75" on the right. Is this set up helping the situation
or making it worse? It seems to me since the engine is behind the CG, it would
make it worse. My prop turns counter-clockwise looking at it from behind
the airplane. I do have a rudder tab on the left side, and the plane flys straight
& level with very little stick input once up. Any thoughts on this?
Thanks -
Jimmy Y
FS II, 95 hrs on the Generac V-twin
--------
Jimmy Young
FS II, Generac V-Twin
Houston TX area
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238901#238901
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
tc1917(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
> To answer a couple of questions: I dont have any apparent slack in the prop
> to indicate a loose gear set or too much gear lash. Might be a little too
> tight going around but not to the point it is grinding metal. The motor
> mounts are the ones supplied by the Kolb Factory with the 912. Took the 582
> ones off. My normal cruise speed for the SS is around 82/85 indicated. I
> can hit 90/95 in a heartbeat. Been over a hundred a couple of times at only
> about 5400 rpm. my set up and aproach is around 70 indicated with touch
> down somewhere around high 40s I think. at 60 you are still pretty much
> flying although you have a sink rate. My normal roll out is somewhere
> between 200 to 300 feet, close to take-off roll. Once the feet are down,
> speed is lost very fast so there is not a lot of roll out. If I go in slow,
> break it right away, I can stop in about 150 feet without even thinking of a
> nose over. I love the tall landing legs and forward sweep. Like I said, if
> it didnt make that awlful noise, I would have the perfect flying machine --
> although it looks a little strange! When and if the wind and rain stops, I
> will get to work on those great suggestions. I will let everyone know the
> results for the archieves. Ted Cowan, Slingshot 912 ul.
That sounds like about the same performance envelope as my titan - 95mph cruise,
60mph on final, TD about 40 with full flaps.
Have you tried a different prop type? My next attempt is going to be a powerfin
F model which judging by my spare 68" that I have left over from my 2-stroke
days, has a very different resonance to the blades than the WD.
Doubt it'll have the same speed range as the WD but it may run smoother. It's worth
a shot anyway especially if it runs smoother.
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238904#238904
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engine offset mount question |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
Jimmy Young wrote:
> I have a question regarding offsetting an engine to compensate for prop wash
on rudder. Currently it takes a lot of right rudder to roll out straight on take
off. If I have a left to right crosswind, it takes full hard right rudder to
maintain a straight track. If I have a right to left crosswind, very little
rudder is required to keep her straight. My engine is offset slightly to the
left right now. I have about 3.75" from the prop to the aileron tube on the pilot's
left side, and about 4.75" on the right. Is this set up helping the situation
or making it worse? It seems to me since the engine is behind the CG, it
would make it worse. My prop turns counter-clockwise looking at it from behind
the airplane. I do have a rudder tab on the left side, and the plane flys straight
& level with very little stick input once up. Any thoughts on this?
>
> Thanks -
>
> Jimmy Y
> FS II, 95 hrs on the Generac V-twin
Sounds familiar. My FSII required a lot of left rudder on the takeoff roll (mine
had the 503 with the prop turning right-hand, swinging the big ol 68" WD 3 blade
on a 3.47 C box) but didn't have a lot of torque problems in the air.
Mine also didn't have any offset in the mount, but I should think that would help.
Perhaps not.
I mitigated the problem by just applying power slower especially if there was a
crosswind so the torque wouldn't overcome the rudder. By the time the tail came
up I could go to wide open without having to hold as much left rudder pressure.
Soft-field takeoffs where I held the tail down longer with back pressure on the
stick, tho, would still require the hefty left rudder until I got to flying speed.....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238905#238905
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | MIG welding aluminum |
Kolb welding guys=2C
I recently had some heli-arc welding done on some aluminum for my MkIII t
urbocharger. (the intercooler and TBI "top-hat"). Although this method of
welding aluminum is the best=2C it can get real expensive!! (I found the m
ore often I went to this guy=2C the more expensive he got. (surprise=2C su
rprise!)
I talked to my local welding shop=2C and they say I can get some aluminum
MIG welding wire=2C and use straight Argon gas (not the 25%/75% CO2/Argon
mix I'm presently using for my small MIG welder)
The alum. wire and pure Argon allows one to weld "light" alum. projects..
.....they say.
Is there anyone out there that has experience with this combination=2C an
d can say whether or not it works very well? I have a lot of small aluminu
m projects that I'd do if I could weld them myself.
I have one of those 110V Lincoln wire feed welders=2C with the MIG conver
sion kit and 125 cu.ft. gas bottle. This set up is perfect for the home we
lder guy or gal. You can weld ALL kinds of things around the house. Nice
set up. If I could switch steel wire to aluminum=2C that would be awesome!
!
Mike Welch
MkIII
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| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Ted,
What kind of brakes did you put on your Slingshot ? I have the Obrien hydraulic
brakes, they are wonderful reliable, I have not had to touch them in over 2
years, they would be perfect on a lighter plane like a firestar, but I just need
more stopping power... I could not induce a nose over with the brakes even
if I tried. There have been a couple times with long taxiing on pavement that
I have overheated them and had them fade completely. It really sucks having
to shut the engine down on a taxiway to stop.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238927#238927
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | MIG welding aluminum |
Kolb welding guys=2C
I recently had some heli-arc welding done on some aluminum for my MkIII t
urbocharger. (the intercooler and TBI "top-hat"). Although this method of
welding aluminum is the best=2C it can get real expensive!! (I found the m
ore often I went to this guy=2C the more expensive he got. (surprise=2C su
rprise!)
I talked to my local welding shop=2C and they say I can get some aluminum
MIG welding wire=2C and use straight Argon gas (not the 25%/75% CO2/Argon
mix I'm presently using for my small MIG welder)
The alum. wire and pure Argon allows one to weld "light" alum. projects..
.....they say.
Is there anyone out there that has experience with this combination=2C an
d can say whether or not it works very well? I have a lot of small aluminu
m projects that I'd do if I could weld them myself.
I have one of those 110V Lincoln wire feed welders=2C with the MIG conver
sion kit and 125 cu.ft. gas bottle. This set up is perfect for the home we
lder guy or gal. You can weld ALL kinds of things around the house. Nice
set up. If I could switch steel wire to aluminum=2C that would be awesome!
!
Mike Welch
MkIII
_________________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MIG welding aluminum |
Mike I [think ] you can get a spool gun to go with you welder that
uses flux core wire.and you do not have to use any gas. this may be
bad info .But your welding suply store can tell you for sure.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar 2
On Apr 13, 2009, at 10:08 AM, Mike Welch wrote:
> Kolb welding guys,
>
> I recently had some heli-arc welding done on some aluminum for my
> MkIII turbocharger. (the intercooler and TBI "top-hat"). Although
> this method of welding aluminum is the best, it can get real
> expensive!! (I found the more often I went to this guy, the more
> expensive he got. (surprise, surprise!)
>
> I talked to my local welding shop, and they say I can get some
> aluminum MIG welding wire, and use straight Argon gas (not the 25%/
> 75% CO2/Argon mix I'm presently using for my small MIG welder)
> The alum. wire and pure Argon allows one to weld "light" alum.
> projects.......they say.
>
> Is there anyone out there that has experience with this
> combination, and can say whether or not it works very well? I have
> a lot of small aluminum projects that I'd do if I could weld them
> myself.
>
> I have one of those 110V Lincoln wire feed welders, with the MIG
> conversion kit and 125 cu.ft. gas bottle. This set up is perfect
> for the home welder guy or gal. You can weld ALL kinds of things
> around the house. Nice set up. If I could switch steel wire to
> aluminum, that would be awesome!!
>
> Mike Welch
> MkIII
>
>
> Quick access to your favorite MSN content and Windows Live with
> Internet Explorer 8. Download FREE now!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
>I just need more stopping power... >
> Mike
All=2C
First=2C my apologies for the double send of the MIG aluminum reuqest. S
tupid Highesnet choked=2C and I pushed resend... ( I miss DSL)
Mike=2C
Doesn't your brake reservior/master cylinders have options for various mo
unting holes. It is likely the O'Brien brakes may not be the problem=2C ju
st their mounting geometry.
By moving the top mount closer to the pivot point=2C you should be able t
o exert more hydraulic pressure. Just a thought.....
How about a couple of close-up photos=2C so we can see what your options
are??
Mike Welch
MkIII
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Longo" <tlongo(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | MIG welding aluminum |
Yes it works fine, the best type of gun for aluminum is one that pulls
instead of pushes. I have that set up with a gun that pulls (spool on gun)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Welch
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 11:50 AM
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Kolb-List: MIG welding aluminum
Kolb welding guys,
I recently had some heli-arc welding done on some aluminum for my MkIII
turbocharger. (the intercooler and TBI "top-hat"). Although this method of
welding aluminum is the best, it can get real expensive!! (I found the more
often I went to this guy, the more expensive he got. (surprise, surprise!)
I talked to my local welding shop, and they say I can get some aluminum
MIG welding wire, and use straight Argon gas (not the 25%/75% CO2/Argon mix
I'm presently using for my small MIG welder)
The alum. wire and pure Argon allows one to weld "light" alum.
projects.......they say.
Is there anyone out there that has experience with this combination, and
can say whether or not it works very well? I have a lot of small aluminum
projects that I'd do if I could weld them myself.
I have one of those 110V Lincoln wire feed welders, with the MIG
conversion kit and 125 cu.ft. gas bottle. This set up is perfect for the
home welder guy or gal. You can weld ALL kinds of things around the house.
Nice set up. If I could switch steel wire to aluminum, that would be
awesome!!
Mike Welch
MkIII
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Souder" <flykolb(at)pa.net> |
| Subject: | MIG welding aluminum |
Mike,
Theoretically you can use your mig for aluminum, but the big problem is the
alum wire will jam in the welding cable very easily because the reel in your
welder and needs to push the wire all the way through your welding cable,
and . because the alum wire is not very stiff - it jams.
You probably would need a spool gun which has a small roll of aluminum right
on the welding gun. Don't know if they make a spool gun for your welder or
not.
Dennis
_____
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Welch
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 11:50 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: MIG welding aluminum
Kolb welding guys,
I recently had some heli-arc welding done on some aluminum for my MkIII
turbocharger. (the intercooler and TBI "top-hat"). Although this method of
welding aluminum is the best, it can get real expensive!! (I found the more
often I went to this guy, the more expensive he got. (surprise, surprise!)
I talked to my local welding shop, and they say I can get some aluminum
MIG welding wire, and use straight Argon gas (not the 25%/75% CO2/Argon mix
I'm presently using for my small MIG welder)
The alum. wire and pure Argon allows one to weld "light" alum.
projects.......they say.
Is there anyone out there that has experience with this combination, and
can say whether or not it works very well? I have a lot of small aluminum
projects that I'd do if I could weld them myself.
I have one of those 110V Lincoln wire feed welders, with the MIG
conversion kit and 125 cu.ft. gas bottle. This set up is perfect for the
home welder guy or gal. You can weld ALL kinds of things around the house.
Nice set up. If I could switch steel wire to aluminum, that would be
awesome!!
Mike Welch
MkIII
_____
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MIG welding aluminum |
- Mike:- I have one of those Lincoln welders, but use flux core wire to
weld steel.- I used to weld aluminum with a "spool gun", where the roll
of wire sits above your hand.- I was told that a lot of the MIG's with th
e "whip feed" will not push the wire, and it will bind.- See if you can g
et a roll to borrow (make sure you have the right tip in it) and see if you
rs will feed before you pick up the argon.- Also, use a stainless steel w
ire brush or wheel to clean the oxide off aluminum before welding.- You c
an weld heavy stuff, but one pass at a time.- If it works, practice on a
lot of scrap.- You may also have to change the filter setting or lens num
ber in the helmet.- Be careful- if the aluminum gets too hot on multiple
passes, it may collapse.- It stays hot for quite a while, and the heat sp
reads through the material.
-
-------------------------
------------- Good luck
-------------------------
-------------------- Bill Sullivan
-------------------------
-------------------- Windsor Locks,
Ct.
-------------------------
-------------------- FS 447
-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | MIG welding aluminum |
Tom and Frank=2C
Thanks for the replies. Frank=2C I wasn't concerned so much as using flu
xless wire=2C as I was wondering how good a weld a guy could make. Since I
have to have Argon gas=2C anyway=2C so for me to weld aluminum=2C I'd only
have to change the wire roll.
It looks like both of you are on the same page=2C though=2C referring to
the spool/gun.
I'll check this device out.
Thanks=2C Mike W
From: tlongo(at)tampabay.rr.com
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: MIG welding aluminum
Date: Mon=2C 13 Apr 2009 12:44:52 -0400
Yes it works fine=2C the best type of gun for aluminum is one that pulls in
stead of pushes. I have that set up with a gun that pulls (spool on gun)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@m
atronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Welch
Sent: Monday=2C April 13=2C 2009 11:50 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: MIG welding aluminum
Kolb welding guys=2C
I recently had some heli-arc welding done on some aluminum for my MkIII t
urbocharger. (the intercooler and TBI "top-hat"). Although this method of
welding aluminum is the best=2C it can get real expensive!! (I found the m
ore often I went to this guy=2C the more expensive he got. (surprise=2C su
rprise!)
I talked to my local welding shop=2C and they say I can get some aluminum
MIG welding wire=2C and use straight Argon gas (not the 25%/75% CO2/Argon
mix I'm presently using for my small MIG welder)
The alum. wire and pure Argon allows one to weld "light" alum. projects..
.....they say.
Is there anyone out there that has experience with this combination=2C an
d can say whether or not it works very well? I have a lot of small aluminu
m projects that I'd do if I could weld them myself.
I have one of those 110V Lincoln wire feed welders=2C with the MIG conver
sion kit and 125 cu.ft. gas bottle. This set up is perfect for the home we
lder guy or gal. You can weld ALL kinds of things around the house. Nice
set up. If I could switch steel wire to aluminum=2C that would be awesome!
!
Mike Welch
MkIII
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href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List">http://www.matronics.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | MIG welding aluminum |
Dennis=2C
Ah ha!! Now I think I understand something a little better. I haven't c
hecked out the spool/gun idea yet=2C but now I understand why the conversio
n kit for my welder has a new
cable.
When I talked to the guy at Airgas=2C he said the "MIG welding aluminum k
it" has:
A) small aluminum wire roll
B) new feed cable with smooth teflon lining
He didn't exactly know why the new cable came with the kit. He wasn't fa
miliar with the "softer" aluminum wire that may scrunch up. I asked him if
I could just use my present unlined cable=2C and he said he didn't know wh
y not. (now=2C I realize why not)
One thing he did say is that you HAVE to use straight Argon gas=2C no CO2
/Argon mix=2C like I get away with for steel welding.
I think I'll take your advice=2C Dennis=2C toward the softer alum. wire
=2C and go for the complete kit. I'll check and see if there is one of tho
se spool/guns available.
Thanks guys=2C
Mike Welch
From: flykolb(at)pa.net
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: MIG welding aluminum
Date: Mon=2C 13 Apr 2009 13:02:53 -0400
Mike=2C
Theoretically you can use your mig for aluminum=2C but the big problem is t
he alum wire will jam in the welding cable very easily because the reel in
your welder and needs to push the wire all the way through your welding cab
le=2C and =85 because the alum wire is not very stiff ' it jams.
You probably would need a spool gun which has a small roll of aluminum righ
t on the welding gun. Don=92t know if they make a spool gun for your welde
r or not.
Dennis
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Welch
Sent: Monday=2C April 13=2C 2009 11:50 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: MIG welding aluminum
Kolb welding guys=2C
I recently had some heli-arc welding done on some aluminum for my MkIII t
urbocharger. (the intercooler and TBI "top-hat"). Although this method of
welding aluminum is the best=2C it can get real expensive!! (I found the m
ore often I went to this guy=2C the more expensive he got. (surprise=2C su
rprise!)
I talked to my local welding shop=2C and they say I can get some aluminum
MIG welding wire=2C and use straight Argon gas (not the 25%/75% CO2/Argon
mix I'm presently using for my small MIG welder)
The alum. wire and pure Argon allows one to weld "light" alum. projects..
.....they say.
Is there anyone out there that has experience with this combination=2C an
d can say whether or not it works very well? I have a lot of small aluminu
m projects that I'd do if I could weld them myself.
I have one of those 110V Lincoln wire feed welders=2C with the MIG conver
sion kit and 125 cu.ft. gas bottle. This set up is perfect for the home we
lder guy or gal. You can weld ALL kinds of things around the house. Nice
set up. If I could switch steel wire to aluminum=2C that would be awesome!
!
Mike Welch
MkIII
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| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
The O'Brien brakes do not have sufficient capacity for a 1,000 lb/100 hp ai
rplane. They were designed for light ULs. Not sure what their max capacit
y is, but it is no where near the max gross of a MKIII.
Same goes for the MATCO UL brakes with 5/8" axles. However, the brakes hav
e a max capacity of 600 lbs. Little 5/8" ball bearings do not do a good jo
b of carrying heavy loads for long. Some folks go with dual calipers and g
et them to stop satisfactorily, but you are still flying with a wheel that
is not strong enough for the job.
I used 5/8" MATCO's for a long time, then upgraded to a 3/4" axle with tape
r roller bearings. I can't remember the designation or their max capacity
off the top of my head, but it is about 1,000 or 1,200 lbs or more. Now I
have the capability to properly adjust bearing load, something you can not
do with a caged ball bearing.
I usually opt to go a little over the requirement rather than below it. Ma
kes my cross country flying much more enjoyable not to be bothered with pre
ventable problems on the road.
john h
mkIII
Doesn't your brake reservior/master cylinders have options for various m
ounting holes. It is likely the O'Brien brakes may not be the problem, jus
t their mounting geometry.
By moving the top mount closer to the pivot point, you should be able to
exert more hydraulic pressure. Just a thought.....
How about a couple of close-up photos, so we can see what your options ar
e??
Mike Welch
MkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
John & TNK Co=2C
If Mike's brakes are not up to the task=2C does TNK sell a more appropria
te=2C larger axle/wheel/brake=2C for the heavier MkIIIs and Slingshots?
Since you went to a larger 3/4" axle=2C did you opt for a larger/stronger
master cylinder? I didn't see where you mention your present brake master
cylinder manufacturer.
I usually go for the "extra heavy duty" version of something=2C too. It
often proves it was worth it.
Mike Welch
From: jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: harmonics
Date: Mon=2C 13 Apr 2009 12:43:37 -0500
The O'Brien brakes do not have sufficient capacity for a 1=2C000 lb/100 hp
airplane. They were designed for light ULs. Not sure what their max capac
ity is=2C but it is no where near the max gross of a MKIII.
Same goes for the MATCO UL brakes with 5/8" axles. However=2C the brakes h
ave a max capacity of 600 lbs. Little 5/8" ball bearings do not do a good
job of carrying heavy loads for long. Some folks go with dual calipers and
get them to stop satisfactorily=2C but you are still flying with a wheel t
hat is not strong enough for the job.
I used 5/8" MATCO's for a long time=2C then upgraded to a 3/4" axle with ta
per roller bearings. I can't remember the designation or their max capacit
y off the top of my head=2C but it is about 1=2C000 or 1=2C200 lbs or more.
Now I have the capability to properly adjust bearing load=2C something yo
u can not do with a caged ball bearing.
I usually opt to go a little over the requirement rather than below it. Ma
kes my cross country flying much more enjoyable not to be bothered with pre
ventable problems on the road.
john h
mkIII
Doesn't your brake reservior/master cylinders have options for various m
ounting holes. It is likely the O'Brien brakes may not be the problem=2C j
ust their mounting geometry.
By moving the top mount closer to the pivot point=2C you should be able t
o exert more hydraulic pressure. Just a thought.....
How about a couple of close-up photos=2C so we can see what your options
are??
Mike Welch
MkIII
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Watson" <djwatson(at)olg.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MIG welding aluminum |
Mike,
I probably have the same welder (WP-125) and my plan was to do lite
aluminum also. I bought the MIG conversion, argon tank, aluminum wire,
then found out that you also have to have a new non metallic liner in
the cable that feeds the wire along with some other stuff, couldn't find
the liner or "other stuff" so I have never been able to try it. The
liner is needed to prevent the wire from binding and also to prevent
contamination of the wire. I think the wire feed wheel is the "other
stuff". Another way to go is to get a handle that has the wire spool
attached which eliminates the wire having to go through the long cable.
Or you could buy your own AC/DC output TIG welder for a little over
$2000.00 ---- It must be AC output or you cannot do aluminum.
My wish list is too long.
V/R,
Dennis in MD.
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Welch
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 11:49 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: MIG welding aluminum
Kolb welding guys,
I recently had some heli-arc welding done on some aluminum for my
MkIII turbocharger. (the intercooler and TBI "top-hat"). Although this
method of welding aluminum is the best, it can get real expensive!! (I
found the more often I went to this guy, the more expensive he got.
(surprise, surprise!)
I talked to my local welding shop, and they say I can get some
aluminum MIG welding wire, and use straight Argon gas (not the 25%/75%
CO2/Argon mix I'm presently using for my small MIG welder)
The alum. wire and pure Argon allows one to weld "light" alum.
projects.......they say.
Is there anyone out there that has experience with this combination,
and can say whether or not it works very well? I have a lot of small
aluminum projects that I'd do if I could weld them myself.
I have one of those 110V Lincoln wire feed welders, with the MIG
conversion kit and 125 cu.ft. gas bottle. This set up is perfect for
the home welder guy or gal. You can weld ALL kinds of things around the
house. Nice set up. If I could switch steel wire to aluminum, that
would be awesome!!
Mike Welch
MkIII
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| From: | "Dennis Watson" <djwatson(at)olg.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MIG welding aluminum |
Sorry for the late response, should have read ahead, looks like you have
the info.
Dennis in MD.
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Welch
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 11:49 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: MIG welding aluminum
Kolb welding guys,
I recently had some heli-arc welding done on some aluminum for my
MkIII turbocharger. (the intercooler and TBI "top-hat"). Although this
method of welding aluminum is the best, it can get real expensive!! (I
found the more often I went to this guy, the more expensive he got.
(surprise, surprise!)
I talked to my local welding shop, and they say I can get some
aluminum MIG welding wire, and use straight Argon gas (not the 25%/75%
CO2/Argon mix I'm presently using for my small MIG welder)
The alum. wire and pure Argon allows one to weld "light" alum.
projects.......they say.
Is there anyone out there that has experience with this combination,
and can say whether or not it works very well? I have a lot of small
aluminum projects that I'd do if I could weld them myself.
I have one of those 110V Lincoln wire feed welders, with the MIG
conversion kit and 125 cu.ft. gas bottle. This set up is perfect for
the home welder guy or gal. You can weld ALL kinds of things around the
house. Nice set up. If I could switch steel wire to aluminum, that
would be awesome!!
Mike Welch
MkIII
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| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
I'll bet TNK can supply any part required. The lighter brake is what comes
standard with the kit.
I use the same master cylinder I had with the UL Matco's.
I stuck with MATCO. They had what I wanted.
john h
MKIII
If Mike's brakes are not up to the task, does TNK sell a more appropri
ate, larger axle/wheel/brake, for the heavier MkIIIs and Slingshots?
Since you went to a larger 3/4" axle, did you opt for a larger/stronger
master cylinder? I didn't see where you mention your present brake master
cylinder manufacturer.
Mike Welch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | MIG welding aluminum |
Hi Dennis Watson=2C
Your welder is the newer version of mine. I have the 115V Lincoln "Weld
Pak 100". Here's what I know=2C up to this point=3B
This is a dynomite welder for all the medium to small steel welding proje
cts I do. I bought the K610-1 conversion kit=2C which turns it into a genu
ine MIG welder=2C plus I had to buy a decent size gas tank. I'm not sure i
t makes it all that much better. Maybe a little. Heck of a set up for aro
und the shop!!
I haven't found anyone who sells a spool/gun that fits my small welder.
However=2C I did find a product brochure that says to convert my Weld Pak 1
00 to weld aluminum=2C I need the additional K664-2 kit (along with the gas
kit above K610-1). This kit has the smooth lined cable=2C to keep it from
scrunching up.
A welding supply store sells the K664-2 kit on eBay for $65=2C incl s/h.
(The first kit K610-1 cost me about $135 or so. This kit contained the ga
uges=2C hose=2C and some misc parts to convert my welder to a MIG welder.)
So=2C I guess I'll go ahead and buy the aluminum conversion kit=2C and se
e how it does.
BTW. According to the Airgas guy=2C he said I don't need a darker lens f
or my helmet=2C like a TIG welder would need.
Thanks to all for your help=2C
Mike Welch
From: djwatson(at)olg.com
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: MIG welding aluminum
Date: Mon=2C 13 Apr 2009 14:33:46 -0400
Mike=2C
I probably have the same welder (WP-125) and my plan was to do lite alu
minum also. I bought the MIG conversion=2C argon tank=2C aluminum wire=2C t
hen found out that you also have to have a new non metallic liner in the ca
ble that feeds the wire along with some other stuff=2C couldn't find the li
ner or "other stuff" so I have never been able to try it. The liner is nee
ded to prevent the wire from binding and also to prevent contamination of t
he wire. I think the wire feed wheel is the "other stuff". Another way to
go is to get a handle that has the wire spool attached which eliminates th
e wire having to go through the long cable.
Or you could buy your own AC/DC output TIG welder for a little over $20
00.00 ---- It must be AC output or you cannot do aluminum.
My wish list is too long.
V/R=2C
Dennis in MD.
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Welch
Sent: Monday=2C April 13=2C 2009 11:49 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: MIG welding aluminum
Kolb welding guys=2C
I recently had some heli-arc welding done on some aluminum for my MkIII t
urbocharger. (the intercooler and TBI "top-hat"). Although this method of
welding aluminum is the best=2C it can get real expensive!! (I found the m
ore often I went to this guy=2C the more expensive he got. (surprise=2C su
rprise!)
I talked to my local welding shop=2C and they say I can get some aluminum
MIG welding wire=2C and use straight Argon gas (not the 25%/75% CO2/Argon
mix I'm presently using for my small MIG welder)
The alum. wire and pure Argon allows one to weld "light" alum. projects..
.....they say.
Is there anyone out there that has experience with this combination=2C an
d can say whether or not it works very well? I have a lot of small aluminu
m projects that I'd do if I could weld them myself.
I have one of those 110V Lincoln wire feed welders=2C with the MIG conver
sion kit and 125 cu.ft. gas bottle. This set up is perfect for the home we
lder guy or gal. You can weld ALL kinds of things around the house. Nice
set up. If I could switch steel wire to aluminum=2C that would be awesome!
!
Mike Welch
MkIII
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: MIG welding aluminum |
Mike , I belive that Miller makes a spool gun that works with linclon
welder [ it,s quite a bit
cheaper than the linclon spool gun. ] My welder is the linclon 140c
and the Miller gun works
with it.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar2
H.K.S.
On Apr 13, 2009, at 3:14 PM, Mike Welch wrote:
> Hi Dennis Watson,
>
> Your welder is the newer version of mine. I have the 115V Lincoln
> "Weld Pak 100". Here's what I know, up to this point;
> This is a dynomite welder for all the medium to small steel
> welding projects I do. I bought the K610-1 conversion kit, which
> turns it into a genuine MIG welder, plus I had to buy a decent size
> gas tank. I'm not sure it makes it all that much better. Maybe a
> little. Heck of a set up for around the shop!!
>
> I haven't found anyone who sells a spool/gun that fits my small
> welder. However, I did find a product brochure that says to convert
> my Weld Pak 100 to weld aluminum, I need the additional K664-2 kit
> (along with the gas kit above K610-1). This kit has the smooth
> lined cable, to keep it from scrunching up.
> A welding supply store sells the K664-2 kit on eBay for $65, incl
> s/h. (The first kit K610-1 cost me about $135 or so. This kit
> contained the gauges, hose, and some misc parts to convert my welder
> to a MIG welder.)
>
> So, I guess I'll go ahead and buy the aluminum conversion kit, and
> see how it does.
>
> BTW. According to the Airgas guy, he said I don't need a darker
> lens for my helmet, like a TIG welder would need.
>
> Thanks to all for your help,
> Mike Welch
>
> From: djwatson(at)olg.com
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: MIG welding aluminum
> Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 14:33:46 -0400
>
> Mike,
>
> I probably have the same welder (WP-125) and my plan was to do
> lite aluminum also. I bought the MIG conversion, argon tank,
> aluminum wire, then found out that you also have to have a new non
> metallic liner in the cable that feeds the wire along with some
> other stuff, couldn't find the liner or "other stuff" so I have
> never been able to try it. The liner is needed to prevent the wire
> from binding and also to prevent contamination of the wire. I think
> the wire feed wheel is the "other stuff". Another way to go is to
> get a handle that has the wire spool attached which eliminates the
> wire having to go through the long cable.
>
> Or you could buy your own AC/DC output TIG welder for a little
> over $2000.00 ---- It must be AC output or you cannot do aluminum.
>
> My wish list is too long.
>
> V/R,
> Dennis in MD.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mike Welch
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 11:49 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: MIG welding aluminum
>
> Kolb welding guys,
>
> I recently had some heli-arc welding done on some aluminum for my
> MkIII turbocharger. (the intercooler and TBI "top-hat"). Although
> this method of welding aluminum is the best, it can get real
> expensive!! (I found the more often I went to this guy, the more
> expensive he got. (surprise, surprise!)
>
> I talked to my local welding shop, and they say I can get some
> aluminum MIG welding wire, and use straight Argon gas (not the 25%/
> 75% CO2/Argon mix I'm presently using for my small MIG welder)
> The alum. wire and pure Argon allows one to weld "light" alum.
> projects.......they say.
>
> Is there anyone out there that has experience with this
> combination, and can say whether or not it works very well? I have
> a lot of small aluminum projects that I'd do if I could weld them
> myself.
>
> I have one of those 110V Lincoln wire feed welders, with the MIG
> conversion kit and 125 cu.ft. gas bottle. This set up is perfect
> for the home welder guy or gal. You can weld ALL kinds of things
> around the house. Nice set up. If I could switch steel wire to
> aluminum, that would be awesome!!
>
> Mike Welch
> MkIII
>
>
> Quick access to your favorite MSN content and Windows Live with
> Internet Explorer 8. Download FREE now!
>
> Rediscover Hotmail=AE: Now available on your iPhone or BlackBerry
> Check it out.
>
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.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
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> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
> www.matronics.com/c
> ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
> ronics.com
> ww.matronics.com/contribution
>
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>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
Dana
--
Alpha test version: too buggy to release. Beta test version: still
too
buggy to release. Release 1.0: alternate pronounciation of beta test
version.>>
Hi Dana,
perhaps the samples tried were early. Reports of approval by the LAA
just reported in the current magazine.
I haven`t seen it but The Sherwood Ranger they speak about in their
blurb will no doubt be on show during the summer, probably at Popham in
May. I will keep an eye open for it.
Can`t imagine Donaldson of the LAA approving it if it doesn`t perform.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ElleryWeld(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: MIG welding aluminum |
I have been a Welder for over 30 years a lot of the guys have good info
but here is my opinion of what I would do
First, How thick of material are you looking to weld, anything 1/8 inch
and thicker, a spool gun works great I run a couple L-Tec 28-A spool guns
and Profax spool gun I like the L-TEC better, but these are more for
production work.
if your looking to weld any thickness material "thick or thin" a Tig Torch
hooked to a welding machine with AC & High Freq is best no matter what
Process you decide on 100% Argon gas is the only one to use to weld Aluminum
keep the welding area super clean durty aluminum does not weld good at
all, Stainless steel brush (good advice )
I never had much Luck with the smaller mig machines welding aluminum and I
have tried a few different ones over the years
Good luck with your welding adventure and if I can be of any help feel
free to ask
Ellery in Maine
Building MK3Xtra
**************The Average US Credit Score is 692. See Yours in Just 2 Easy
Steps!
mpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilAvgfooterNO62)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | MIG welding aluminum |
Thanks for the tips=2C Ellery. At his time=2C and within my budget=2C I th
ink I'll have to try that kit made for my small MIG welder. I'll post a co
mment about my successes or failures=2C after I get a chance to check it ou
t.
My aluminum welding is what most could call "light". Probably 1/8" or less
. I'm just looking for something that can do small projects once in awhile
=2C without spending money on a TIG welder.
BTW=2C are you back to work on the MKIII Xtra yet?
Thanks=2C Mike W
From: ElleryWeld(at)aol.com
Date: Mon=2C 13 Apr 2009 20:04:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: MIG welding aluminum
I have been a Welder for over 30 years a lot of the guys have good info but
here is my opinion of what I would do
First=2C How thick of material are you looking to weld=2C anything 1/8 in
ch and thicker=2C a spool gun works great I run a couple L-Tec 28-A spool g
uns and Profax spool gun I like the L-TEC better=2C but these are more for
production work.
if your looking to weld any thickness material "thick or thin" a Tig Torch
hooked to a welding machine with AC & High Freq is best no matter what Pro
cess you decide on 100% Argon gas is the only one to use to weld Aluminum
keep the welding area super clean durty aluminum does not weld good at all
=2C Stainless steel brush (good advice )
I never had much Luck with the smaller mig machines welding aluminum and I
have tried a few different ones over the years
Good luck with your welding adventure and if I can be of any help feel free
to ask
Ellery in Maine
Building MK3Xtra
The00126575x1221621489x1201450100/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditrepo
rt.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26hmpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilAvgfoot
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | possums <possums(at)bellsouth.net> |
At 10:37 PM 4/12/2009, you wrote:
>
>
>I was chewing gum and painting Poly Tone , using a breating device
>that had charcoal filters..It fit well below mouth and around nose
>up to fore head... I noticed after a while that the chewing gum
>began to disolve..:-) Acetone and Mek.... in the brew...Herb
>
>>
>>What's the real advantage of Stits over Ceconite/dope? Just the
>>number of coats required? I've repaired Ceconite (years ago) and
>>Stits (last year) but never covered an entire airplane.
>>
>>One thing I noticed is that the Stits chemicals smell much more
>>evil/toxic than dope...though I realize that could be purely
>>subjective, and I know neither are really healthy.
>>
>>-Dana
Sorry, I couldn't help myself.........
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hate to say it, but you probably gotta just chuck all that stuff and start
over... Didn't know they even bothered packaging MEK in pints... Get used
to buying MEK by the 55 gal drum during the polyfiber covering festival...
It is the "universal solvent" of Stitsdom.... you will clean everything with
it... spray guns, tools, small neighborhood children, the cat, your
underarms...whatever... by the way, it slam dunks athletes foot... but is
pure hell on Tupperware... About three weeks into the covering frenzy, I
found that if I did NOT get at least eight daily hours of intense MEK fumes,
my hands shook so badly I had difficulty pouring gin, or lighting cigars....
Relax, you will have a great time with the covering... have no
trepidation... just watch the dumb little covering video 12 or 15 times...
send a personal line of credit for 10 or 12 grand to your Stits pusher of
choice, (you will know him like a brother by the time this is all over...)
and wade in.... By the way, check your liver at the door.... after six
weeks of MEK fume respiratory saturation, it will fall out on the floor if
you bend over abruptly.... Most of the skin on your hands will grow back
within the first year, so don't sweat that.... I never really gave a damn
about my kids anyway, so not recognizing them any more is really no big
deal... A man has to keep his perspective... health is of no real
consequence... your family is only a passing concern... Remember, the only
truly important thing in life is NO PINHOLES.... everything else is merely a
fleeting distraction... For months, I would suddenly sit bolt-upright in
bed in the wee hours, drenched in cold sweat, screaming "PINHOLES!!!
PINHOLES!!!... and then retch onto an empty poly-brush can I kept alongside
the bed for just such an eventuality... My long suffering Bride would then
tiptoe out to the kitchen and bring me a warm glass of MEK, the only thing
which would bring me ease at such times...
I worked through it, Lar.... like Crazy Louise in high school... like Viet
Nam... like hepatitis... like marriage.... You will eventually find your
way, too... Covering is just something a man need to work out for himself...
no one else can really help... kinda like a sick indian going off by
himself to die... Be of stout heart and good demeanor... you will
triumph...
Hang tough...
Beauford
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
I could hear the Bats in the rafters squealing and raising hell. That
has been two years and have not had a speck of guano since. Mosquitoes
are worse though.>>
Good grief , mosquitos crap on your wings? Where are you, Alaska? I
understand that the mosquito is the State bird.
heh heh
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Bickham" <gearbender(at)bellsouth.net> |
Arty and Randy will be stopping in at Nauga Field for some food and rest.
--------
Thanks too much,
John Bickham
Mark III-C w/ 912UL
St. Francisville, LA
Landing a plane and being married - a few smooth moments mixed with a lot of rough
ones.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239067#239067
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Cowan" <tc1917(at)bellsouth.net> |
I do appreciate all the imput on the harmonics. I check all the bolts and
as much of the frame and attachments before each flight I can. I try not to
miss anything. I hate to take off and think, darn, I dont think I
checked --? I am very aware what vibration can do to objects. I was a
truck mech for thirty some years and welder all my life so I know about
that. I have MATCO brakes on my slingshot. Came with manual one handle
brakes. Very inadequate. I did donuts at thirty mph once on landing. With
castor wheels you need separate controls. I bought a MATCO set from Haucks
bro, had them on a jenny he was building. Good price. Good brakes. Had to
rig them myself which just required some ingenuity. Never have had a
moments problem with them. Would use them again. Hope this rain stops so I
can work on my baby and get some air time. Got gravity fever. Glad I aint
planning on going to sun-un-fun!!! ted cowan, slingshot, 912ul
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engine offset mount question |
| From: | "John Bickham" <gearbender(at)bellsouth.net> |
Hey Jimmy,
I'm not an expert on this at all. But my experiences are similar to Lucien's.
I'm of the opinion it has more to do with the roll of the prop wash hitting one
side of the rudder more than the other.
I can get into a jam when I apply throttle very quickly requiring a lot of right
rudder to correct. Rudder wash push, at slow roll speed with little rudder
authority. Looks like the 2-strokes push one way and the 4-strokes push the other
due to prop rotation.
I guess I'm saying I got the same issues. If it where me and you have the runway
length, experiment with slower throttle input and see how that comes out.
I start crooked when I'm doing max TO's and get ahead of it with early rudder
input. Usually have enough rudder authority when I get back to the centerline.
I would leave it set for best cruise if it where me.
--------
Thanks too much,
John Bickham
Mark III-C w/ 912UL
St. Francisville, LA
Landing a plane and being married - a few smooth moments mixed with a lot of rough
ones.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239089#239089
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engine offset mount question |
| From: | "Jimmy Young" <jdy100(at)comcast.net> |
Lucien & John-
Thanks for your input. That is pretty much how I handle it now, by easing in to
full power. I also keep the tail on the ground a bit longer and it helps pin
the rear from going right on me.
My main question though is, on a pusher set up if an engine is offset to the left
a bit as mine is now, does that promote the plane to turn more to the right
or left, since the engine is behind the center of gravity?
On another topic; John, I wish I could take a couple of days off right now. I would
fly over to Nauga to meet the Wandering Wench and her wingman! I know they
will have a great time at your strip. I'm going to Sun & Fun next week and hope
to meet her there!
Jimmy Y
--------
Jimmy Young
FS II, Generac V-Twin
Houston TX area
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239103#239103
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: engine offset mount question |
I'm going to Sun & Fun next week and hope to meet her there!
>
> Jimmy Y
Jimmy:
If you see me at Lakeland, ask me about experimentation with off set engines
on Kolbs. Be glad to share what I learned from that. Also, for the same
price, I'll share with you what I learned from off setting the leading edge
of the upper vertical stabilizer.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: engine offset mount question |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
Jimmy Young wrote:
> Lucien & John-
>
> Thanks for your input. That is pretty much how I handle it now, by easing in
to full power. I also keep the tail on the ground a bit longer and it helps pin
the rear from going right on me.
>
> My main question though is, on a pusher set up if an engine is offset to the
left a bit as mine is now, does that promote the plane to turn more to the right
or left, since the engine is behind the center of gravity?
>
> On another topic; John, I wish I could take a couple of days off right now. I
would fly over to Nauga to meet the Wandering Wench and her wingman! I know they
will have a great time at your strip. I'm going to Sun & Fun next week and
hope to meet her there!
>
> Jimmy Y
It should, as we did that all the time on our r/c planes to counteract torque (tho
that was in a tractor config).
But I'm going along with the theory that the yawing tendency is due to the rotating
downwash acting on the rudder rather than torque on FS II. Mine yawed the
opposite way you'd expect if it were torque (right hand prop = left hand torque
should = yaw to the left). So I'm not sure that offset is going to be very
affective (it doesn't seem to be in your case?).
Instead you want to reduce the angle of the prop wash on the rudder and the easiest
way to do that is to be moving through the air faster when the prop is turning
the fastest. I.e. slower application of power.
That's what I did on my FS II. And actually, the only time I had to put the left
pedal to the floor or close to it was going to WOT right away. Getting some
forward speed first always reduced that a lot and made it easily manageable. There
wasn't really any flight situation I ever got in where I needed full power
immediately anyway so that technique seemed to be the best cure....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239106#239106
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lanny Fetterman <donaho1(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | EAA, AD&D insurance advice |
Hey all, Sorry in advance to all who feel this is not the place to discuss
this topic. Since we don`t have an OFF TOPIC forum, here it is anyway.
I will be retiring in June 09. At that time I will loose my life insurance
coverage. I want to be covered while I am PIC of my FSII as well as every
day life. I am looking at the coverage I can buy through EAA. Any thoughts
or advice is greatly appreciated. Lanny Fetterman N598LF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ElleryWeld(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: MIG welding aluminum |
Oh yes I am back to work on it still re working 3 other guys work on it
someone re designed some things on it that I don't like the looks of and
im not really in a hurry to get it together real fast unless the wind
blows a bunch of cash my way out of the money tree, so I plan on taking
my
time I plan on having this one for a long time
Ellery in Maine
Building MK3Xtra
In a message dated 4/13/2009 9:41:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com writes:
Thanks for the tips, Ellery. At his time, and within my budget, I think
I'll have to try that kit made for my small MIG welder. I'll post a comm
ent
about my successes or failures, after I get a chance to check it out.
My aluminum welding is what most could call "light". Probably 1/8" or
less. I'm just looking for something that can do small projects once in
awhile, without spending money on a TIG welder.
BTW, are you back to work on the MKIII Xtra yet?
Thanks, Mike W
____________________________________
From: ElleryWeld(at)aol.com
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 20:04:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: MIG welding aluminum
I have been a Welder for over 30 years a lot of the guys have good info
but here is my opinion of what I would do
First, How thick of material are you looking to weld, anything 1/8 inch
and thicker, a spool gun works great I run a couple L-Tec 28-A spool guns
and Profax spool gun I like the L-TEC better, but these are more for
production work.
if your looking to weld any thickness material "thick or thin" a Tig Torc
h
hooked to a welding machine with AC & High Freq is best no matter what
Process you decide on 100% Argon gas is the only one to use to weld Alumi
num
keep the welding area super clean durty aluminum does not weld good at
all, Stainless steel brush (good advice )
I never had much Luck with the smaller mig machines welding aluminum and
I
have tried a few different ones over the years
Good luck with your welding adventure and if I can be of any help feel
free to ask
Ellery in Maine
Building MK3Xtra
____________________________________
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ronics.com ww.matronics.com/contribution
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carlos" <grageda(at)innw.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA, AD&D insurance advice |
Hi Lanny,
Good luck with finding insurance...
I have yet been able too.
B.V.E.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lanny Fetterman" <donaho1(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 4:27 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: EAA, AD&D insurance advice
>
> Hey all, Sorry in advance to all who feel this is not the place to discuss
> this topic. Since we don`t have an OFF TOPIC forum, here it is anyway.
> I will be retiring in June 09. At that time I will loose my life insurance
> coverage. I want to be covered while I am PIC of my FSII as well as every
> day life. I am looking at the coverage I can buy through EAA. Any thoughts
> or advice is greatly appreciated. Lanny Fetterman N598LF
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | EAA, AD&D insurance advice |
> I will be retiring in June 09. At that time I will loose my life insurance
> coverage.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.
Some companies will allow you to continue your policy if you make
arrangements to pay the premiums directly... worth checking into.
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
The FAA uses Michigan mosquitoes as test birds for windshields and jet
engines.>>
Reminds me of the story that when we were flying Concorde the FAA
aproached the works at Bristol and asked how the engines were tested
regarding bird strikes.
Bristol replied that they had designed a catapult to could throw
chickens into the intake.
FAA. "We do that but it always smashes up the engine"
Bristol. "Defrost the chickens"
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vince Hallam" <vince(at)devonwindmills.co.uk> |
Pj,
Were you there at Filton when that was done? I was. I also tried
them at 58000 feet and they all flamed out.Great gliding !!
Tel: 01803 316191
Mob: 07941 313141
www.devonwindmills.co.uk
Woodlands, Walls Hill Road, Torquay, TQ1 3LZ
----- Original Message -----
From: pj.ladd
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 11:44 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Stits
The FAA uses Michigan mosquitoes as test birds for windshields and jet
engines.>>
Reminds me of the story that when we were flying Concorde the FAA
aproached the works at Bristol and asked how the engines were tested
regarding bird strikes.
Bristol replied that they had designed a catapult to could throw
chickens into the intake.
FAA. "We do that but it always smashes up the engine"
Bristol. "Defrost the chickens"
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Cowan" <tc1917(at)bellsouth.net> |
Was attending a fly-in somewhere some time ago, with my trusty ole Original
Firestar (makes it kolb related) and a fellow told us this story: He was
transferred in the military to Alaska and took his family. Christmas coming
and being from the Northern USA, he and the family cut themselves a purty
Christmas pine for a Christmas tree in their home. Took it in the living
room and set it up with lights, etc. Really beautiful he said. Next day
the house was full of bugs; big bugs, little bugs, muskeetoes, biters,
crawlers, everything. A big mess. Seems that all those critters nest in
them there pines during the winter and they thought they woke up in the
bahamas or something. I guess you should check with the natives before you
take up a tradition in a strange place. By the way, Neilsen is right about
the biters in Michigan, lived there for over thirty seven years before I
escaped. ted cowan alabama slingshot 912 u.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
Were you there at Filton when that was done?>>
Hi Vince,
No, but I was Secretary of the British Interplanetary Society Branch in
Bristol and a number of our committee worked at British Aerospace or
whatever it was called then and that kept me in the loop to some extent.
I live about 30 miles from Filton and I remember the Vulcan that had its
bomb bay fitted out as a test bed for the Concorde engines growling
around the sky locally.
I was on the beach near Weston super Mare as Concorde banked at the end
of her final fly by circuit before landing at Filton for the last
time. There was not a dry eye in house, she was soo beautiful and we
shall not see her like again.A sad end to a marvellous chapter in
aviation.
Thankfully I was lucky enough to fly in her 3 times. Once to Egypt, FOR
THE DAY, how cool is that, and twice to the States. The cheer that went
up as the Machmeter on the bulkhead in the cabin clicked up Mach 1 and
then Mach 2. Great memories
How about your story of flameouts at 58000ft. Thats got to be good. If
you don`t think it appropriate for the list try pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com.
I would really like to hear it.
Pat
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
I don't know how much it weighs, but here's a new offering:
http://www.aerotech-poland.com/index.php?go=2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
Robert
Generally speaking gear redrives are a better long term solution and
driving the prop off the flywheel end of the crank like the engine was
designed to drive a car just seems a better idea.
The down side would be:
1 How many are there in operation are they reliable?
2 How well is the vibration damper tuned.
3 The Kolb engine mount would need to be modified to mount the engine
turned 180 degrees.
4 The VW engine is a bit heavy and gear redrives are heaver.
5 Cost?
6 You are the test pilot, I'm done testing new redrives.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: robert bean
To: kolb
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 9:32 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: VW
I don't know how much it weighs, but here's a new offering:
http://www.aerotech-poland.com/index.php?go=2
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Rick, I would test it on an airboat first :)
BB
On 15, Apr 2009, at 10:31 AM, Richard & Martha Neilsen wrote:
> Robert
>
> Generally speaking gear redrives are a better long term solution
> and driving the prop off the flywheel end of the crank like the
> engine was designed to drive a car just seems a better idea.
>
> The down side would be:
> 1 How many are there in operation are they reliable?
> 2 How well is the vibration damper tuned.
> 3 The Kolb engine mount would need to be modified to mount the
> engine turned 180 degrees.
> 4 The VW engine is a bit heavy and gear redrives are heaver.
> 5 Cost?
> 6 You are the test pilot, I'm done testing new redrives.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: robert bean
> To: kolb
> Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 9:32 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: VW
>
> I don't know how much it weighs, but here's a new offering:
>
> http://www.aerotech-poland.com/index.php?go=2
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List">http://
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://
> www.matronics.com/c
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kolb and Trailer for Sale |
| From: | "willphelps52" <phelps.will(at)gmail.com> |
I have just listed my 93 Kolb Firestar with enclosed trailer on Barnstormers.
Please have a look and pass the word.
Thanks.
--------
Will Phelps
Central NJ
Kolb Firestar I
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239323#239323
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/pictures_549_276.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
My firestar2 has only got 75 hrs. on it. Today I took the bolts out of
the universal joint at the
rear of the wings. I was shocked to find that one of them had a ring
about 1/32 of an inch
deep worn around it. I don"t know why only one bolt was worn and the
others were ok.
Maybe it was a little to loose, they have to be loose enough for the
universal to work.
At any rate with another 75 hrs. ti would have worn enough to be
really spooky.
Anyone else have this problem? I will remove and check ALL airframe
bolts at my 100 hr. check.
Frank Goodnight
Brownsville, TX.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
I was shocked to find that one of them had a ring
> about 1/32 of an inch
> deep worn around it.
> Frank Goodnight
Probably the cad plating was worn off. I'd have to go do some research to
find out how thick the cad plating is on aircraft bolts. Its on there to
lubricate and protect the bolt, self sacrificial.
I don't fold, so all my bolts are snugged up tight. If I did have to fold
each time I flew, I think I might snug up the bolts prior to flight, then
loosen them up a bit to fold.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
Hi John,
The wear is much deeper than the plating.I do fold every time I
fly,It's a lot of trouble
but fits my budget better than hanger rent. It's also rough on my
airplane.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar2
HKS
On Apr 15, 2009, at 2:49 PM, John Hauck wrote:
> >
>
>
> I was shocked to find that one of them had a ring
>> about 1/32 of an inch
>> deep worn around it.
>
>> Frank Goodnight
>
>
> Probably the cad plating was worn off. I'd have to go do some
> research to find out how thick the cad plating is on aircraft
> bolts. Its on there to lubricate and protect the bolt, self
> sacrificial.
>
> I don't fold, so all my bolts are snugged up tight. If I did have
> to fold each time I flew, I think I might snug up the bolts prior to
> flight, then loosen them up a bit to fold.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Its a real good idea to check all bolts and fittings that could wear with vibration.
I put Mobil 1 Synthetic grease on all bolts and fittings that move against
each other. This grease is hard to find, but its worth the effort, its far
better than any other grease I have ever used. Some will say that grease
will attract and hold dirt, which is true. While not perfect, my greased joints
have not worn all in just over 200 hours. A greased fitting, even though not
perfectly clean is far better than metal vibrating against metal. Where others
have been getting wear, I do not get any.
There is the added benefit of zero corrosion in these areas also.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239346#239346
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net> |
- John H.- I remember you mentioning to someone about changing the choke
piston and gasket whenever a Bing 54 is re-built.- Something about that p
art is not included in the rebuild kit.- What are the symptoms of a failu
re of that gasket?- I have a very rough idle, adjusting the air screw doe
sn't help much, and it seems to run rich at lower RPMs.
- I think a re-build is in order.
-
-------------------------
---------------- Bill Sullivan
-------------------------
---------------- Windsor Locks, Ct.
-------------------------
---------------- FS 447
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wandering Wench is on her way |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Arty is making really good progress, and it looks like she is having a great time.
One day it will be me doing a flight like this in my Kolb :) Here is one
of the pictures from her blog.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239367#239367
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/kolb1_172.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
----- Original Message -----
From: william sullivan
To: kolb list
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 4:44 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Bing 54
John H.- I remember you mentioning to someone about changing
the choke piston and gasket whenever a Bing 54 is re-built. Something
about that part is not included in the rebuild kit. What are the
symptoms of a failure of that gasket? I have a very rough idle,
adjusting the air screw doesn't help much, and it seems to run rich at
lower RPMs.
I think a re-build is in order.
Bill Sullivan
Windsor Locks, Ct.
FS 447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wandering Wench is on her way |
> Arty is making really good progress, and it looks like she is having a
great time. One day it will be me doing a flight like this in my Kolb :)
Here is one of the pictures from her blog.
>
> Mike
That's John Bickham!
Hi John B.
Arty must have made it to Nauga Field.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Bill:
Believe it would be the choke piston and seat seal, or something like
that. Would have to look it up in the parts book.
They seem to fail with extended time, or did back in my day.
Another reason for not wanting to idle normally, is an engine that is
not operated normally. If you only run it on the ground, never going
full power or cruise power, the engine (crank case) with load up with
excess oil. Causes irratic/poor running and a lot of blue smoke.
If you are running rich at idle, it should probably blow black smoke.
I'm not too good at two strokes any more. Hardly ever operate one
except my chain saw and weed eater. For some reason they don't seem to
have all the problems the Rotax two strokes have.
john h
mkIII
John H.- I remember you mentioning to someone about changing
the choke piston and gasket whenever a Bing 54 is re-built. Something
about that part is not included in the rebuild kit. What are the
symptoms of a failure of that gasket? I have a very rough idle,
adjusting the air screw doesn't help much, and it seems to run rich at
lower RPMs.
I think a re-build is in order.
Bill Sullivan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
frank.goodnight(at)att.ne wrote:
> My firestar2 has only got 75 hrs. on it. Today I took the bolts out of
> the universal joint at the
> rear of the wings. I was shocked to find that one of them had a ring
> about 1/32 of an inch
> deep worn around it. I don"t know why only one bolt was worn and the
> others were ok.
> Maybe it was a little to loose, they have to be loose enough for the
> universal to work.
> At any rate with another 75 hrs. ti would have worn enough to be
> really spooky.
> Anyone else have this problem? I will remove and check ALL airframe
> bolts at my 100 hr. check.
> Frank Goodnight
> Brownsville, TX.
I never actually pulled the bolts on mine (I hope Bob does at some point), but
I did at one point pull the joint apart to troubleshoot the little bit of slop
at the channel bracket where it bolts to the frame.
That whole joint is well designed (IMO), but is fairly low tech. It doesn't have
to be high-tech because it's not a high speed or constantly moving joint, but
it can eventually start to wear if you fold the wings a lot.
If the bolts are that worn I'd also check for slop at that channel bracket, as
if it gets too bad it can change the AoA of the wing panel slightly. The original
builder of my plane used shims of some kind under the channel bracket to tighten
it up (he folded it all the time too).
I'd treat the bolts and the channel brackets as consumables if I folded every flight
(i.e. I'd have spares on hand and would replace on a regular basis)....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239378#239378
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
>
>Anyone else have this problem? I will remove and check ALL airframe
>bolts at my 100 hr. check.
>
Frank,
Steel on steel is not good. I have had a similar problem with my FireFly.
I solved it by bushing the holes. See:
http://www.thirdshift.com/jack/firefly/firefly128.html
Fly safe,
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
[quote="williamtsullivan(at)att.n"]John H.- I remember you mentioning to someone
about changing the choke piston and gasket whenever a Bing 54 is re-built.
Something about that part is not included in the rebuild kit. What are the symptoms
of a failure of that gasket? I have a very rough idle, adjusting the air
screw doesn't help much, and it seems to run rich at lower RPMs.
I think a re-build is in order.
Bill Sullivan
Windsor Locks, Ct.
FS 447
> [b]
Most likely the idle jet is plugged. this happens over time easily on the bing
especially on the 2 stroke if you let it sit for long periods of time. This blocks
off the airflow through the jet and makes the thing run full rich at idle
no matter how much you open the idle mix adjust screw.
If the choke weren't sealing right you'd have a more extreme version of that, up
to and including 4-stroking or even 6, 8, 10 or more -stroking as you approached
full throttle.......
Don't ask me why I know that......
Pull the choke plunger and check the rubber stopper at the bottom. If it's really
hard or chewed up replace it. Just an impression on the surface is ok.
Check the action of the choke and make sure the plunger seats fully by itself when
you close it with the lever. I.e. press on top of the plunger.... Any drag
in the choke system can cause it to hang open a little bit, which can be a BIG
eye opener on takeoff....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239380#239380
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
At 03:49 PM 4/15/2009, John Hauck wrote:
>
>Probably the cad plating was worn off. I'd have to go do some research to
>find out how thick the cad plating is on aircraft bolts. Its on there to
>lubricate and protect the bolt, self sacrificial.
Cad plating is at most .0005" thick, according to the MIL-Spec... Frank
said his bolts are worn 1/32" (.03125"), which is sixty times more than the
plating thickness.
-Dana
--
A cement mixer collided with a prison van on the highway. Motorists are
asked to be on the lookout for sixteen hardened criminals.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wandering Wench is on her way |
Yes John, They spent the night there and took off at about 3 pm, I think
my time. Heading your way.
Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: John Hauck
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 4:00 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Wandering Wench is on her way
> Arty is making really good progress, and it looks like she is
having a
great time. One day it will be me doing a flight like this in my Kolb
:)
Here is one of the pictures from her blog.
>
> Mike
That's John Bickham!
Hi John B.
Arty must have made it to Nauga Field.
john h
mkIII
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
04/15/09 06:34:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
At 06:18 PM 4/15/2009, lucien wrote:
>That whole joint is well designed (IMO), but is fairly low tech. It
>doesn't have to be high-tech because it's not a high speed or constantly
>moving joint, but it can eventually start to wear if you fold the wings a lot.
The amount of wear from folding (1/4 revolution each fold) is probably
insignificant compared to wear from vibration and changing flight loads,
unless something is way too tight or binding badly.
OTOH, the looseness required for folding allows more motion (and thus wear)
than tight bolts.
-Dana
--
A cement mixer collided with a prison van on the highway. Motorists are
asked to be on the lookout for sixteen hardened criminals.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
At 05:44 PM 4/15/2009, william sullivan wrote:
> John H.- I remember you mentioning to someone about changing the choke
> piston and gasket whenever a Bing 54 is re-built. Something about that
> part is not included in the rebuild kit. What are the symptoms of a
> failure of that gasket? I have a very rough idle, adjusting the air
> screw doesn't help much, and it seems to run rich at lower RPMs.
Bill, what rpm are you trying to idle at? 2-strokes don't idle smoothly at
low rpm's, and if you try, the vibration can cause havoc with the float and
needle, letting too much fuel through.
How's the rebuild going? You going to be ready to fly it this year?
-Dana
--
A cement mixer collided with a prison van on the highway. Motorists are
asked to be on the lookout for sixteen hardened criminals.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net> |
- I pulled the choke stopper, and cleaned a bunch of soft brown goo off t
he bottom.- Apparently, that was the gasket.- When it was clean, it was
metal to metal.- I am getting a kit and choke parts in, but I was wonder
ing whether that would do it.- It has a very rough shaking from idle (200
0 rpm) through about 3500 rpm.- It smooths out at higher rpms.- Smokes
quite a bit when it's doing it.- I found a lot of brownish goo in the mai
n jet, and a small blob in the bottom of the bowl.- Ran a lot better when
the main was cleaned.- Prior to cleaning it was not running without a li
ttle choke, and now runs but shakes.- By the way, the air screw adjustmen
t made no difference- that's why I took the choke apart.-
-- I am not planning on having the Firestar ready this year- I am going
to take my time, and even if the plane is ready I am not.- Lessons will
come after repairs, and-I want them fresh in my head when I am ready.-
Also, my money has been going to-my kids lately.- They can spend it fas
ter than my retirement can pay for it.- I am having fun working on it any
way.
-
-------------------------
--------------- Bill Sullivan
-------------------------
--------------- Windsor Locks, Ct.
-------------------------
--------------- FS 447-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net> |
- John- It does look like blue smoke, which clears up when run over 5000
rpm for a bit.- I am not doing any extended running at all, but adjust, r
un, shutdown, adjust, etc.- This shakes a lot more than others I've seen.
- A carb kit won't hurt.- A friend says it needs to be run hard to blow
out the oil, but I want the goo out first.- You are right about 2-stroke
s.- My chain saw and brush saw don't give me trouble like this.- Fresh
gas usually fixes them.
-
-------------------------
----------------- Bill Sullivan
-------------------------
----------------- Windsor Locks, Ct.
-------------------------
----------------- FS 447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
russ(at)rkiphoto.com wrote:
> Sorry, jetpilot, my mistake.
> When you said you had "zero corrosion" I assumed you meant no
> corrosion anywhere.
Yes, even with powder coating, the rest of the airplane requires some attention.
There are some areas where I have had to remove the powder coating where it
gets chipped, or for whatever reason has not sealed well, and sand off the corrosion
and use Epoxy Primer. Corrosion X helps with the inside of the boom
tube, and I will be putting Corrosion X it in the wing spars for the first time
soon.
Fortunately, I am in an enclosed hanger which helps a lot. A Kolb left outside
here would not last long :(
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239403#239403
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Tweaking the Warp Drive |
Installed new blades on my mkIII, 71" tapered, nickle steel leading edges,
yesterday.
Changing from 70".
Test flight yielded 5400 rpm WOT straight and level flight. I knew it was
going to be a tad over pitched before I took off. Was looking for 5500 to
5600.
Flew great, even though not quite as brisk as I like it.
Today, pulled 1 degree of pitch out of the blades. Used the Warp Drive
Protractor to do that on one blade. Then adjusted the other two blades with
a laser tool provided by Scott (icrash). It worked great to get all three
blades reading off the same sheet of music.
My field elevation is 410 msl. Pulled 5400 rpm climbing out. Engine felt
brisk. Climbed to 5,000 feet msl. At 5,000 feet the 912ULS was turning
5,300 rpm, climbing a steady 1,500 fpm with me (200 lbs) and 15 gals (90
lbs) of fuel, at 45 mph indicated. OAT was 40F at 5,000 feet.
WOT straight and level at 1500 feet yielded 5,600 rpm. I am happy. The
engine and airplane seems much lighter when freed up a bit, rather than
overpropped. Cruise seems to be about the same, 80 to 85 mph, at 5,000 to
5,100 rpm.
Now, when I head out West, I'll have a good responsive combination to haul a
lot heavier airplane at much higher altitudes.
Did not experience any abnormal operation with the new blades, as usual.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wandering Wench is on her way |
| From: | "John Bickham" <gearbender(at)bellsouth.net> |
Yep, that me! We "passed a good time".
It was great meeting and visiting with Arty (she hates "ma'm") and Randy. Also
got to meet another Drifter pilot from Beaumont, TX - Tom Harlagn (sp?).
Arty has taught me something new about XC flying. You don't have to worry about
those rough air mid-day landings if you don't take-off till afternoon. Seriously,
they left Nauga and False River late mostly because she needed to catch
up some much needed rest. She is a tough little thing and pretty amazing to
watch stuck out there on the front of the Drifter.
When you guys catch up with her at Sun-n-Fun, she is getting real close to getting
a Kolb. Those Drifter's eat a lot of runway both in and out.
Had a great visit, hope they did too. It was some great weather while they were
here. Rained 5" in 2 hours Sunday. Nauga Field had a water retention issue.
--------
Thanks too much,
John Bickham
Mark III-C w/ 912UL
St. Francisville, LA
Landing a plane and being married - a few smooth moments mixed with a lot of rough
ones.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239430#239430
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Good source for Titanium tie-downs will be at Sun-n-Fun |
| From: | "John Bickham" <gearbender(at)bellsouth.net> |
If you are going to Sun-n-Fun and want some of the hard to find Titanium screw
in tie-downs, check with Randy Simpson at Sun-n-Fun.
Randy is Arty Trost's flying buddy. He flies and "maintains" a Carrera. Neat
and interesting guy.
I bought a set (3ea with bag) from him. These things are nice and well made.
John H has had some for a while and this is the first time I found some.
--------
Thanks too much,
John Bickham
Mark III-C w/ 912UL
St. Francisville, LA
Landing a plane and being married - a few smooth moments mixed with a lot of rough
ones.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239436#239436
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tweaking the Warp Drive |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
John Hauck wrote:
> Installed new blades on my mkIII, 71" tapered, nickle steel leading edges,
> yesterday.
>
> Changing from 70".
>
> Test flight yielded 5400 rpm WOT straight and level flight. I knew it was
> going to be a tad over pitched before I took off. Was looking for 5500 to
> 5600.
>
> Flew great, even though not quite as brisk as I like it.
>
> Today, pulled 1 degree of pitch out of the blades. Used the Warp Drive
> Protractor to do that on one blade. Then adjusted the other two blades with
> a laser tool provided by Scott (icrash). It worked great to get all three
> blades reading off the same sheet of music.
>
> My field elevation is 410 msl. Pulled 5400 rpm climbing out. Engine felt
> brisk. Climbed to 5,000 feet msl. At 5,000 feet the 912ULS was turning
> 5,300 rpm, climbing a steady 1,500 fpm with me (200 lbs) and 15 gals (90
> lbs) of fuel, at 45 mph indicated. OAT was 40F at 5,000 feet.
>
> WOT straight and level at 1500 feet yielded 5,600 rpm. I am happy. The
> engine and airplane seems much lighter when freed up a bit, rather than
> overpropped. Cruise seems to be about the same, 80 to 85 mph, at 5,000 to
> 5,100 rpm.
>
> Now, when I head out West, I'll have a good responsive combination to haul a
> lot heavier airplane at much higher altitudes.
>
> Did not experience any abnormal operation with the new blades, as usual.
>
> john h
> mkIII
Can you get blades from WD in odd lengths? I thought you could only get them in
evens....
Even with the mild problems with harmonics on my plane, my WD continues to shock
and amaze me with its performance. My 68" still gives me around 1000fpm at my
field elevation of 6300' and yet yeilds right at 100mph indicated at only about
5100 rpm slightly above half throttle.
I may have posted this already but I did also discover the other day that the harmonic
part of the vibration goes virtually away at cruise, so I may be able
to keep the WD on the plane as-is.
Dennis and I if all goes well with weather (and I get my leave from work) will
be travelling to MV a bit slower than that tho, as his Mark III is about a 70mph
airplane (reminiscent of my FSII). I'll have some kind of prop on the airplane
anyway whichever one works out to be the smoothest....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239437#239437
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Good source for Titanium tie-downs will be at Sun-n-Fun |
> If you are going to Sun-n-Fun and want some of the hard to find Titanium
screw in tie-downs, check with Randy Simpson at Sun-n-Fun.
>
> John Bickham
Randy sent me an email about a week before I blasted off to Alaska in 2004.
Asked me if I would like a set of his titanium tie downs. Replied with an
afirmative. A couple days before I took off my tie downs arrived. I am
very proud of them and take them with me every flight.
They are limited in rocky soil, like out West.
I also have some home made tie downs, rebar with a chain link welded just
below the top, to use in rocky areas. Can pound them in with a mallet,
rock, hachet, or whatever.
Also have some nice long 3/8" braided nylon rope. Nothing like landing in a
wind storm only to find the tie downs are spaced to far apart for your
ropes.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tweaking the Warp Drive |
> Can you get blades from WD in odd lengths? I thought you could only get
them in evens....
>
> Even with the mild problems with harmonics on my plane, my WD continues to
> shock and amaze me with its performance. My 68" still gives me around
> 1000fpm at my field elevation of 6300' and yet yeilds right at 100mph
> indicated at only about 5100 rpm slightly above half throttle.
> LS
All ya gotta do is ask. They'll cut them any length you want, up to 72" (I
think that is their max length with nickle edges).
75% power is right at 5000 to 5100 rpm on a 912. A little more than 1/2
throttle. Throttle lever positions are not good indicators of power the
engine is producing. RPM works better.
I have a slight vibration at 5,000 rpm with these new blades pitched the way
they are now. I like the pitch, so I'll probably cruise at 5,100 or higher.
Every engine has a sweet spot where it is happiest/smoothest. That is where
I like to operate.
If, for some reason you find a vibration, use the throttle to find a better
place.
Even turbine engines have certain speeds that one should not operate because
of bad vibes. Doubt you will find an airplane engine of any type that is
absolutely vibrationless through the rpm range.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Old Aviators And Old Airplanes |
Hi All,
not at all Kolb related but knowing how Americans react to Old Glory,
Mom and apple pie I thought you might like this. I am not getting at
anyone , its just the the English are a bit more buttoned down in their
reactions and feel a little uncomfortable with displays of emotion and
patriotism.
Nevertheless after reading this piece I couldn`t help feeling `Gosh! I
flew one of those` and feeling a bit pleased with myself.
Pat
I received this a little while ago. I don't know where it comes
from, but this is a good little story about a vivid memory of a P-51 and
its pilot by a fellow who was 12 years old in Canada in 1967. I think
it is a nicely written piece and that certainly evokes better times. . .
.
Old Aviators and Old Airplanes . . . .
It was noon on a Sunday as I recall, the day a Mustang P-51 was to
take to the air. They said it had flown in during the night from some
U.S. airport, the pilot had been tired. I marveled at the size of the
plane dwarfing the Pipers and Canucks tied down by her. It was much
larger than in the movies. She glistened in the sun like a bulwark of
security from days gone by.
The pilot arrived by cab, paid the driver, and then stepped into
the flight lounge. He was an older man; his wavy hair was gray and
tossed.
Looked like it might have been combed, say, around the turn of the
century. His flight jacket was checked, creased and worn - it smelled
old and genuine. Old Glory was prominently sewn to its shoulders. He
projected a quiet air of proficiency and pride devoid of arrogance. He
filed a quick flight plan to Montreal (Expo-67, Air Show) then walked
across the tarmac.
After taking several minutes to perform his walk-around check the
pilot returned to the flight lounge to ask if anyone would be available
to stand by with fire extinguishers while he "flashed the old bird up,
just to be safe."
Though only 12 at the time I was allowed to stand by with an
extinguisher after brief instruction on its use -- "If you see a fire,
point, then pull this lever!" I later became a firefighter, but that's
another story.
The air around the exhaust manifolds shimmered like a mirror from
fuel fumes as the huge prop started to rotate. One manifold, then
another, and yet another barked -- I stepped back with the others. In
moments the Packard-built Merlin engine came to life with a thunderous
roar, blue flames knifed from her manifolds. I looked at the others'
faces, there was no concern. I lowered the bell of my extinguisher.
One of the guys signaled to walk back to the lounge. We did.
Several minutes later we could hear the pilot doing his pre flight
run-up. He'd taxied t o the end of runway 19, out of sight. All went
quiet for several seconds; we raced from the lounge to the second story
deck to see if we could catch a glimpse of the P-51 as she started down
the runway. We could not.
There we stood, eyes fixed to a spot half way down 19. Then a
roar ripped across the field, much louder than before, like a furious
hell spawn set loose---something mighty this way was coming. "Listen to
that thing!" said the controller. In seconds the Mustang burst into our
line of sight. Its tail was already off and it was moving faster than
anything I'd ever seen by that point on 19. Two-thirds the way down 19
the Mustang was airborne with her gear going up. The prop tips were
supersonic; we clasped our ears as the Mustang climbed hellish fast into
the circuit to be eaten up by the dog-day haze.
We stood for a few moments in stunned silence trying to digest
what we'd just seen. The radio controller rushed by me to the radio.
"Kingston tower calling Mustang?" He looked back to us as he waited for
an acknowledgment.
The radio crackled, "Go ahead Kingston ." "Roger Mustang.
Kingston tower would like to advise the circuit is clear for a low level
pass." I stood in shock because the controller had, more or less, just
asked the pilot to return for an impromptu air show!
The controller looked at us. "What?" he asked. "I can't let that
guy go without asking. I couldn't forgive myself!"
The radio crackled once again, " Kingston, do I have permission
for a low level pass, east to west, across the field?" "Roger Mustang,
the circuit is clear for an east to west pass." "Roger, Kingston, I'm
coming out of 3000 feet, stand by."
We rushed back onto the second-story deck, eyes fixed toward the
eastern haze. The sound was subtle at first, a high-pitched whine, a
muffled screech, a distant scream. Moments later the P-51 burst through
the haze. Her airframe straining against positive Gs and gravity, wing
tips spilling contrails of condensed air, prop-tips again supersonic as
the burnished bird blasted across the eastern margin of the field
shredding and tearing the air.
At about 400 mph and 150 yards from where we stood she passed with
the old American pilot saluting. Imagine. A salute! I felt like
laughing, I felt like crying, she glistened, she screamed, the building
shook, my heart pounded.
Then the old pilot pulled her up and rolled, and rolled, and
rolled out of sight into the broken clouds and indelibly into my memory.
I've never wanted to be an American more than on that day. It was
a time when many nations in the world looked to America as their big
brother, a steady and even-handed beacon of security who navigated
difficult political water with grace and style; not unlike the pilot
who'd just flown into my memory.
He was proud, not arrogant, humble, not a braggart, old and
honest, projecting an aura of America at its best. That America will
return one day, I know it will.
Until that time, I'll just send off this story; call it a
reciprocal salute, to the old American pilot who wove a memory for a
young Canadian that's lasted a lifetime.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Blood Pressure |
| From: | "Tom O'Hara" <tohara(at)alphagraphics.com> |
I think one should be careful as to which limb the blood pressure cuff is put on
after taking the blue pill--lol
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239584#239584
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Blood Pressure |
----- Original Message -----
From: henry.voris
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 12:50 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Blood Pressure
Dusting off those breathing/meditation/centering techniques learned in
the last century while practicing Aikido, I found I could is lower my
systolic pressure 15, 20, sometimes 30 points. This is well within the
acceptable range. But I still worried that I wouldn't get the
opportunity to chill out and get my pressure down during the exam.
My next discovery was a bit more counter intuitive... Viagra lowered
my pressure by 20 points. So I researched it... Viagra went to human
trials as a medication for angina. It didn't work, but they did note
it's most happy side effect, namely a woody you can drive nails with.
Lost in the insueing euphoria was the fact that it also lowers blood
pressure... being most effective one hour after the dose is given and at
eight hours the effect is the same as a placebo.
Knowledge is power... use it wisely...
--------
Henry
Firefly Five-Charlie-Bravo
LOL, I was just telling the wife the other day the same thing when one
of the ads came up on the TV. I believe it was for Ciallis, (36 hour
effects) One of the younger guys, when I was working for a living had
higher BP than they wanted for our Commercial Drivers Lic Physicals, and
he would take Viagra before he went and had no problem passing. The
Physician was a woman however and I am not sure how the hernia test
went. (cough) Actually I found that if I took three deep breaths and let
it out slowly in a relaxation tech. I could lower mine to young man
levels.
Larry C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Good source for Titanium tie-downs will be at Sun-n-Fun |
John
There used to be a guy that made dog style titanium tie downs and sold them
from a web site. I would really like a set but the rumor on this list was
that the guy wasn't delivering on the orders. Is this the same one?
Is this guy still making them. Can you send me contact information.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 10:46 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Good source for Titanium tie-downs will be at
Sun-n-Fun
>
> > If you are going to Sun-n-Fun and want some of the hard to find Titanium
> screw in tie-downs, check with Randy Simpson at Sun-n-Fun.
> >
>> John Bickham
>
>
> Randy sent me an email about a week before I blasted off to Alaska in
> 2004. Asked me if I would like a set of his titanium tie downs. Replied
> with an afirmative. A couple days before I took off my tie downs arrived.
> I am very proud of them and take them with me every flight.
>
> They are limited in rocky soil, like out West.
>
> I also have some home made tie downs, rebar with a chain link welded just
> below the top, to use in rocky areas. Can pound them in with a mallet,
> rock, hachet, or whatever.
>
> Also have some nice long 3/8" braided nylon rope. Nothing like landing in
> a wind storm only to find the tie downs are spaced to far apart for your
> ropes.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Good source for Titanium tie-downs will be at Sun-n-Fun |
> Is this guy still making them. Can you send me contact information.
>
> Rick Neilsen
I don't have his contact info, but it is Randy Simpson that is traveling
with Arty Trost.
Sure you can get in contact with him through Arty.
If you are going to be at S&F you can get his autograph. ;-) Arty's too!
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Blood Pressure |
| From: | "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com> |
henry.voris wrote:
> This is well within the acceptable range. But I still worried that I wouldn't
get the opportunity to chill out and get my pressure down during the exam.
>
Henry,
Here's an idea...Record your readings for a month or more that you take at home
or wherever and take that log in to the doctor's office when you get your physical.
(Read the instructions because there are times that are best not to take
it such as after eating.) I've been logging mine and taking it to the dr office
because going to the doctor makes my bp shoot up as well. That way my doctor
can get a better reading of what I usually run.
--------
Cristal Waters
Kolb Mark II Twinstar
Rotax 503 DCSI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239607#239607
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wandering Wench is on her way |
| From: | "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com> |
John Bickham wrote:
> Also got to meet another Drifter pilot from Beaumont, TX - Tom Harlagn (sp?).
>
He was mentioned in the article written about her in the beaumont enterprise site
(AOPA daily Aviation eBrief had a link to this article in today's email).
It is a good article about her.
http://www.beaumontenterprise.com/news/local/on_the_wings_of_adventure__oregon_resident_touches_down_in_hardin_county_on_way_to_florida_04-14-2009.html
I think anyone can sign up for AOPA's Aviation eBrief (daily email showing aviation
news from all over the country) here:
http://www.smartbrief.com/aopa/
--------
Cristal Waters
Kolb Mark II Twinstar
Rotax 503 DCSI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239609#239609
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Good source for Titanium tie-downs will be at Sun-n-Fun |
| From: | "John Bickham" <gearbender(at)bellsouth.net> |
Rick,
Don't know about the web site and the filling order problem. Randy didn't strike
me as the type. I didn't get Randy's e-mail address. I could work on it.
As John H said, he will be at Sun-n-Fun and plans to be at MV with Arty. If your
plans include those you can see him there. If not, I can work on it for you.
He is traveling with a few sets. He has sold three so far. Randy is retired and
partly financing his trip with these. He can't officially sell them at the
vendor regulated Sun-n-Fun, but if you get to him early he may be able to fix
you up.
I'll ask permission to post his address when I get it.
--------
Thanks too much,
John Bickham
Mark III-C w/ 912UL
St. Francisville, LA
Landing a plane and being married - a few smooth moments mixed with a lot of rough
ones.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239651#239651
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Dumb short short landing technique question |
| From: | "John Bickham" <gearbender(at)bellsouth.net> |
I have a what may seem like a dumb question regarding really short landings. I've
been pushing myself to try to land as short as I can. I find it a challenge
to control the speed at minimum and achieve a decent landing with minimum ground
roll. I consider myself barely an average aviator and have the history
to prove it.
I'm down to landing in less than 600 ft over a +80 foot obstacle on grass. One
of the problems is the steep approach at minimum speed and timing the flare.
Gusting winds don't help. I think what is happening is the wing and flaps are
blocking the air at the abrupt flare and robbing some elevator authority making
things kinda ugly at times. My next move is to try a little shot of power
to put some air on the elevator for authority.
I liken this to a bird landing on a wire and missing the wire. Interested in learning
others techniques and suggestions. Don't want to insult anyone, but would
like to avoid VG's being the answer. Technique should be the same to achieve
best result with or without VG's. Sorry bout that.
Again, this is pushing my abilities. I may have reached my personal limits based
on my limited ability.
--------
Thanks too much,
John Bickham
Mark III-C w/ 912UL
St. Francisville, LA
Landing a plane and being married - a few smooth moments mixed with a lot of rough
ones.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239655#239655
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dumb short short landing technique question |
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
What's your configuration for landing? I.e., what flaps, if any, are you
using?
-- Robert
MkIIIC/912ULS
On Thu, Apr 16, 2009 at 10:29 PM, John Bickham wrote:
>
> I have a what may seem like a dumb question regarding really short
> landings. I've been pushing myself to try to land as short as I can. I
> find it a challenge to control the speed at minimum and achieve a decent
> landing with minimum ground roll. I consider myself barely an average
> aviator and have the history to prove it.
>
> I'm down to landing in less than 600 ft over a +80 foot obstacle on grass.
> One of the problems is the steep approach at minimum speed and timing the
> flare. Gusting winds don't help. I think what is happening is the wing and
> flaps are blocking the air at the abrupt flare and robbing some elevator
> authority making things kinda ugly at times. My next move is to try a
> little shot of power to put some air on the elevator for authority.
>
> I liken this to a bird landing on a wire and missing the wire. Interested
> in learning others techniques and suggestions. Don't want to insult anyone,
> but would like to avoid VG's being the answer. Technique should be the same
> to achieve best result with or without VG's. Sorry bout that.
>
> Again, this is pushing my abilities. I may have reached my personal limits
> based on my limited ability.
>
> --------
> Thanks too much,
>
> John Bickham
> Mark III-C w/ 912UL
> St. Francisville, LA
>
> Landing a plane and being married - a few smooth moments mixed with a lot
> of rough ones.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239655#239655
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dumb short short landing technique question |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
John Bickham wrote:
> I have a what may seem like a dumb question regarding really short landings.
I've been pushing myself to try to land as short as I can. I find it a challenge
to control the speed at minimum and achieve a decent landing with minimum
ground roll. I consider myself barely an average aviator and have the history
to prove it.
>
> I'm down to landing in less than 600 ft over a +80 foot obstacle on grass. One
of the problems is the steep approach at minimum speed and timing the flare.
Gusting winds don't help. I think what is happening is the wing and flaps
are blocking the air at the abrupt flare and robbing some elevator authority making
things kinda ugly at times. My next move is to try a little shot of power
to put some air on the elevator for authority.
>
> I liken this to a bird landing on a wire and missing the wire. Interested in
learning others techniques and suggestions. Don't want to insult anyone, but
would like to avoid VG's being the answer. Technique should be the same to achieve
best result with or without VG's. Sorry bout that.
>
> Again, this is pushing my abilities. I may have reached my personal limits based
on my limited ability.
What I do is keep at the ready with the throttle when slow with a high sink rate
- throttle becomes the 4th control surface when slow. When you're near stall
like this, the altitude for airspeed trade involves more cost in altitude than
otherwise if you get into some sudden sink. So you have to be able to add energy
back into the equation in those cases to arrest the sink rate but without
having to make large reductions in AoA.
So, I'd configure for the short field in the normal way, but adjust the sink rate
with the power a little more than you otherwise would to keep from having to
speed up. Maintain the low airspeed with the elevator like usual.
Pusher planes have an advantage here in that we can instantly restore elevator/rudder
authority by applying power and getting the wind going back over those
control surfaces. But it still works in any airplane (even in trikes).
Carrying a little power into the flare will slow down the energy bleed-off too
and thus slow the flare down. This really helped a whole bunch in my FSII, which
normally had a pretty quick flare anyway like with any low-intertia plane design.
I could still come in slow, but adding a little power right at roundout
slowed the flare down enough to make the timing a lot less critical.
It may add a little length to your landing, but you could still get down in something
you'd only be able to trailer out of anyway ;)
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239658#239658
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
Hi All,
Anybody not interested in this very off topic piece please hit the delete
key and accept my apologies. I wrote it in response to a request from Russ
but after putting all the effort into it I thought that there may be a few
listers who might be interested as well.
When and where did you fly the Mustang? How many hours?>>
Hi Russ,
a bit of a cheat really. 1 whole hour in a P51D called `Crazy Horse`. She
is often seen around the show circuit in the US and in photos and films.
She is one of half a dozen or so Mustangs that have been cut about to make a
twin seater and I flew her out of Kissimmee with pilot Lee Lauderbeck.
We had a briefing and discussed what flying I had done, nearly all gliding
at that point, and what I wanted to do.
Got strapped in and Lee said "We will just wake up the Merlin" He ran
through the checks and said "Go on then ,take her out"
I knew nothing about taxying a `real` plane except swinging the nose so that
I could see where we were going but I managed to get to the runway without
standing her on her nose or hitting anything.
Lee lined her up, locked the tailwheel and opened the throttle. Acceleration
was terrific. Lee held her down until we were at the end of the runway and
then pulled her straight up. I could see the numbers get smaller in the rear
view mirror. We ran out of steam and we fell off on one wing and Lee said
"She`s all yours". I managed to get sorted out and we climbed to about
10,000 ft where Lee made me do some increasingly steep turns. Interesting,
but no trouble after circling in thermals steeply banked at 5 knots above
the stall with a dozen other gliders within a couple of hundred yards.
Lee then let me loose to do whatever I wanted. I, naturally went off looking
for Germans, whipping along the cloud tops and banking hard to surprise some
lurking square head hiding behind a pillar of cloud. Great Stuff.! Why don`t
they fit a gun sight?
Then he talked me through some aero`s. Loops, rolls, hammerheads, pushing
hard all the time. As soon as one manouvre was finished it was straight into
another. Halfway through a Cuban, diving down inverted, he said "You do the
second half" I rolled the right way up and pulled up into the loop . I had
never done anything like it before except a gentle chandelle in a glider.
Height is too hard won in a glider to throw away doing aerobats.
We came down in a long dive and I commenced a ground level beat up for a few
miles before popping up to circuit height when we got back to Kissimmee.
Lee talked me round the circuit lowering the flaps and undercart and dealing
with the radio for me. He talked me through the approach and I managed to
put her down reasonably. He then took over and opened the throttle turning
it into a touch and go. Then he let me fly another circuit without
prompting, taking over just before we touched down.
I taxied in feeling like Douglas Bader and Gabby Zabreski rolled into one.
Without doubt the flying highlight of my life.
I really don`t know how much input Lee put into the flying. I certainly
didn`t detect any but I just can`t believe I did it all myself.#
I forgot to mention that there was a camera mounted high on the tailplane,
facing forward, which took video of the plane and the forward horizon, and
one camera in the cockpit taking pictures of me looking alternately ecstatic
and terrified and feeling sick.. Unfortunately when I flew through cloud
water droplets had collected on the lens of the fin mounted camera which
reduced the sharpness of the picture considerably.
If I remember correctly the hour cost me around 1500. A hell of a lot of
money and I now find it difficult to see how I could possible have done it
at the time. But there is the video and on the wall of my study is a nice
framed picture of a Mustang` on which Lee Lauderbeck has written `To PJ.
Nice job flying Crazy Horse` So it must be true.
I reckon that I have made two real value for money purchases in my life. One
was spending $3 with Exchange and Mart on a book on how to play the piano.
Flying Crazy Horse was the other.
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Dumb short short landing technique question |
Clearing an 80 foot obstacle and stoping in less than 600 foot sounds pretty
damn good to me!
I have a 600 foot strip with one open end, and I never consider coming in
from the end with the trees.
Denny Rowe, Mk-3, N616DR
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Bickham" <gearbender(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 11:29 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Dumb short short landing technique question
>
> I have a what may seem like a dumb question regarding really short
> landings. I've been pushing myself to try to land as short as I can. I
> find it a challenge to control the speed at minimum and achieve a decent
> landing with minimum ground roll. I consider myself barely an average
> aviator and have the history to prove it.
>
> I'm down to landing in less than 600 ft over a +80 foot obstacle on grass.
> One of the problems is the steep approach at minimum speed and timing the
> flare. Gusting winds don't help. I think what is happening is the wing
> and flaps are blocking the air at the abrupt flare and robbing some
> elevator authority making things kinda ugly at times. My next move is to
> try a little shot of power to put some air on the elevator for authority.
>
> I liken this to a bird landing on a wire and missing the wire. Interested
> in learning others techniques and suggestions. Don't want to insult
> anyone, but would like to avoid VG's being the answer. Technique should
> be the same to achieve best result with or without VG's. Sorry bout that.
>
> Again, this is pushing my abilities. I may have reached my personal
> limits based on my limited ability.
>
> --------
> Thanks too much,
>
> John Bickham
> Mark III-C w/ 912UL
> St. Francisville, LA
>
> Landing a plane and being married - a few smooth moments mixed with a lot
> of rough ones.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239655#239655
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
16:38:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dumb short short landing technique question |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
rowedenny
> Clearing an 80 foot obstacle and stoping in less than 600 foot sounds pretty
damn good to me! I have a 600 foot strip with one open end, and I never consider
coming in
> from the end with the trees.
>
> Denny Rowe, Mk-3, N616DR
>
I agree. Anyone that land inside 600 feet over an 80' obstacle is doing pretty
good. I have found the shortest landings are power off landings coming in at
best glide speed. Anything less than that can ruin a set of landing gear if the
flare timing is off.
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar 447
N91493 E-AB
22 years flying it
Kolbra 912UL
N20386
1 year flying it
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239676#239676
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dumb short short landing technique question |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
John, Your technique sounds good, if you are coming in 80 feet over the trees
and stopping in 600 feet, you are doing very well. You are correct to worry about
gusty winds when doing this, a gust that puts you below stall or even right
near stall in the flare could result in an accident or very hard landing with
damage to your plane. In commercial aviation we approach at higher speeds
when the wind is gusty.
You knew the obvious answer to this question, so I have to ask you why do you want
to avoid using VG's ? You must think there is some downside to them if you
want to avoid something that could improve your short field and landing performance
so much. Given the short fields you fly out of, VG's would be a huge
help, not just on the wings, but also on the horizontal tail will keep your elevator
working during the minimum speed flare you are talking about. Everything
you are talking about, your plane will do much better with VG's. If you think
you might not like them, put them on with double sided auto trim tape and
try them, that way if you don't like the results some mineral spirits and time
will get them right off. For just over 100 bucks, and a half a days work, you
can do something that has the potential to increase your planes performance
by a huge margin, and if you don't like it, you can easily get them off. Bargains
like that don't come along often.
Short field operations without VG's is kind of like a NASCAR driver wanting to
race with cheap economy tires, all the driving technique in the world will not
be able to make up for the lack of proper equipment.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239697#239697
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
Hello all,
Well, it's been a long winter ,but today it paid off.I finally was able to fly
my new M3X this evening and she flies GREAT ! Very smooth,quiet,responsive and
hands off ! I couldn't be happier with the airplane ! Check out the picture
!
chris ambrose
M3X / Jabiru A-2200
N327CS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239829#239829
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/first_flight_203.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
> Well, it's been a long winter ,but today it paid off.I finally was able
to fly my new M3X this evening and she flies GREAT ! Very
smooth,quiet,responsive and hands off ! I couldn't be happier with the
airplane ! Check out the picture !
>
> chris ambrose
Great!
Congratulations!
Good luck with your new Kolb.
Get the 40 hours flown off and head west to Monument Valley next month.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
It must have been a big day! What part of the USA are you located?
BB
On 17, Apr 2009, at 10:19 PM, ces308 wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> Well, it's been a long winter ,but today it paid off.I finally was
> able to fly my new M3X this evening and she flies GREAT ! Very
> smooth,quiet,responsive and hands off ! I couldn't be happier with
> the airplane ! Check out the picture !
>
> chris ambrose
> M3X / Jabiru A-2200
> N327CS
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239829#239829
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/first_flight_203.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
That is awesome !!! I don't think anyone will have any trouble recognizing your
Kolb, it is very distinctive :) Congratulations on an uneventful first flight,
to have it all trimmed up and flying hands off on the first flight is quite
an accomplishment. I look forward to seeing your performance numbers when you
get more flights on your plane.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239836#239836
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
Thank you all ! I am in the upper mid Michigan. I would love to join you guys
at MV some day. Hope to see some of you in the future !
chris ambrose
m3x-jabiru
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239838#239838
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dumb short short landing technique question |
| From: | "John Bickham" <gearbender(at)bellsouth.net> |
Thanks for the replies.
Mike - Maybe one day I'll try the VG's. I'm sure they would improve the low speed
performance. I'm satisfied enough right now with Homer's design.
Sounds like I'm doing better than I thought. Might be pushing the limit already.
There is little doubt in my mind that I would have bent the original aluminum
gear legs already with some of these landings. The chrome-moly, heat treated,
big tire gear I have now absorbs a lot of the energy. Makes things a little
springy at times. Hard not to bounce a little on hard surfaces, kinda like
a citabria.
Next round, will ease in some power just before the flare. Off-weekend and its
raining again. Arty took the CAVU weather with her!
--------
Thanks too much,
John Bickham
Mark III-C w/ 912UL
St. Francisville, LA
Landing a plane and being married - a few smooth moments mixed with a lot of rough
ones.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239858#239858
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denny Rowe" <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
Chris,
Congratulations on your first flight!.
Its great to see another Jabiru powered Kolb join the fleet. I was very
surprised to hear you say it was quiet as that is one thing most Jab powered
Kolb owners never say.
Like Mike, I am looking forward to hearing your performance numbers and fuel
burn numbers as you build time on her.
More pics also please.
Denny Rowe, Mk-3, 2SI690L-70, PA
-
---- Original Message -----
: Re: New M3X Flies !
>
> Thank you all ! I am in the upper mid Michigan. I would love to join you
> guys at MV some day. Hope to see some of you in the future !
>
> chris ambrose
> m3x-jabiru
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Passenger on a Firestar II |
| From: | "ropermike" <ropermike2002(at)yahoo.com> |
Hello everyone! I have a friend that wants to buy a Firestar II. He wants to carry
a passenger on occasion. I was under the impression you could configure the
Firestar II to carry a passenger. Am I wrong?.....Thanks, Mike Hillger
--------
The next best thing to playing and winning is playing and losing!...Mike Hillger
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239879#239879
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lanny Fetterman <donaho1(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Passenger in FSII |
Mike, A FSII can carry a passenger, Not much room, so don`t plan on taking
anyone too large. But yes it can be configured to carry a passenger. Lanny FSII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Passenger on a Firestar II |
Hi ,
could be done , if both are slim. mine is maxed out with me 10 gal of
fuel and the extra
weight of the HKS. I weigh about 250 ,sometimes a little less
sometimes a little more.
good luck.
Frank Goodnight
Brownsville , TX.
On Apr 18, 2009, at 7:30 AM, ropermike wrote:
>
> Hello everyone! I have a friend that wants to buy a Firestar II. He
> wants to carry a passenger on occasion. I was under the impression
> you could configure the Firestar II to carry a passenger. Am I
> wrong?.....Thanks, Mike Hillger
>
> --------
> The next best thing to playing and winning is playing and
> losing!...Mike Hillger
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239879#239879
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Passenger on a Firestar II |
| From: | "N111KX (Kip)" <n111kx(at)mindspring.com> |
I consider my FS II a 1.5 seater. With half fuel the max pilot and passenger load
per Kolb limits is 322 lbs.
Regards,
--------
Kip
Firestar II, N111KX
Waiex, N111YX
Quickie 1, N111QX
Atlanta
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239909#239909
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
Maybe someday I'll do that with the last $1500 >>
Hi Thom,
I suspect the price has gone up a bit since my flight, particularly as I met
Lee Lauderbeck again a few years ago at Oshkosh I think, and he had 2
Mustangs on the flight line. I assume from that things are going well for
him.
Glad you liked the write up. I hadn`t thought about it recently and writing
it up brought the memories back.
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ultrastar Flys Again |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
Congratulations !
A good weekend for KOLBS coming out !
chris ambrose
m3x-jab
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239966#239966
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dumb short short landing technique question |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
John,
Denny Rowe took the words right out my mouth ! 600 feet over 80' obstacle.....That
is pretty dang good pal ! .....are you just trying to show us up???? lol
chris ambrose
m3x-jab
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239979#239979
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
I had her up again for a bit this afternoon and cruise is 90 mph on the bean at
2900 rpms.
chris ambrose
m3x-jab
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239981#239981
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/004_132.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dumb short short landing technique question |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
ces308 wrote:
> John,
>
> Denny Rowe took the words right out my mouth ! 600 feet over 80' obstacle.....That
is pretty dang good pal ! .....are you just trying to show us up???? lol
>
> chris ambrose
> m3x-jab
Oh yeah, I left that out of my response too - that's pretty phenomenal performance
already and your technique sounds just fine as-is if you're shoehorning into
600'.
Only in my quicksilver would that have been relatively easy to do. I doubt I could
do that in my titan for sure. My FSII maybe.....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239996#239996
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chris davis <capedavis(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
Chris, This is a Jabaru with no reduction gear ? an 80 or so HP Jabaru? it
makes me wonder about all the anti Jabaru talk I have read on this list . I
have always-found the engine to be beautiful and strong running . but my
only exposure to it has been at SUN& Fun And in 1999- at "Oshkosh". Coul
d you give us a more involved discription ? Rpms , Altitude and such , and
before i forget "CONGRATULATIONS" I have built a Kolb and am building anoth
er now and KNOW-what an accomplishment it is and what a wonderful feeling
it is to fly a bird that you have built yourself ! Thanks-- Chris Davi
s=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: ces308 <ces308@lda
co.com>=0ATo: kolb-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 7:57
:09 PM=0ASubject: Kolb-List: Re: New M3X Flies !=0A=0A--> Kolb-List message
posted by: "ces308" =0A=0AI had her up again for a bit t
his afternoon and cruise is 90 mph on the bean at 2900 rpms.=0A=0Achris amb
rose=0Am3x-jab=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forum
s.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239981#239981=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AAttachments:
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, L
=========0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
First of all I am sorry for the size of the pictures...I will try and shrink any
of the others I post.
The Jabiru is the a-2200 , solid lifter ,85 hp direct drive engine.I was paying
more attention to the numbers today and the climb out rpm's are 3150 and I will
try and get the climb rate next time up.I did notice today though that she
was off the ground and climbing like a home sick angel in less than 200 feet.
chris ambrose
m3x-jab[/b]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240003#240003
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
| From: | "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com> |
ces308 wrote:
> I had her up again for a bit this afternoon and cruise is 90 mph on the bean
at 2900 rpms.
>
> chris ambrose
> m3x-jab
Congratulations Chris.
Is that a regular dolly you have at the tail of your plane or is it specially modified
(to move the tail around)?
--------
Cristal Waters
Kolb Mark II Twinstar
Rotax 503 DCSI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240010#240010
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 1st flight of the year |
sure was a good thing....I finished checking over the firestar ll today
and as it was warm and not much wind I decided to start it up and fly around
the area, the 503 started the lst pull after setting all winter and after
warming it up a bit I was soon airborne. The more I fly the firestar the
more impressed I am with it and the performance. I called my grandson Kendall
and he came over and also got in some flying time. Kendall and I put the
plane away before dark and he said what a genius Homer is to have designed
and built such a airplane...
jswan firestar ll 503, N663S
Eaton Rapids, Mi 48827
**************Check all of your email inboxes from anywhere on the web.
Try the new Email Toolbar now!
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
Crystal,
I made that out of a 2 wheel cart I bought from Harbor freight for $29.00.
I will take some pictures tomorrow if you would like and show you how I made it..It
works great.I have it extended a little more than it needs so when I lift
the tail,the trailing edge of the wing misses a car I have in that corner of
the hangar.
chris ambrose
m3x-jab
ps...I enjoyed your pictures and video also ! Keep them coming !
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240021#240021
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon LaVasseur <firestar503(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Air Force base open to civilains for two days in May |
A couple weeks ago I posted information that has turned out to be incorrect. Ellsworth
Air Force at Rapid City will be open to civillian traffic but not on May
23-24 as reported earlier. THE CORRECT DATES ARE MAY 30 & 31. Complete information
can be found by Googling - Dakota Thunder. Sorry for the earlier misinformation.
If anyone is interested in attending, let me know.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Broken exhaust bracket |
| From: | "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com> |
I got my muffler back from Jim Hauck this week. He reinforced the welding my friend
did by adding an extra piece and welding the sides (you can see in the picture).
Thanks again Jim!
I went to put everything back together today and discovered the bolts on the new
rubber bushings I got from Travis were larger than the old ones. Luckily I
had a friend around who had his drill handy and drilled the holes bigger. Then
the nut was also bigger and wouldn't fit behind the bracket on one side where
the muffler has that bump that sticks out all the way around it. So he banged
that a little with a tool to bend that extra bend down so it wouldn't be in
the way of the nut.
Then I went to put everything back together (this time by myself). It is difficult
to hold the muffler up and put the bolts through the top of the engine/muffler
mount by yourself. Then when I tried to line up the exhaust manifold allen
bolts my INSIDE exhaust gaskets kept falling out of place. I tried three
times (each time having to take everything apart again). The little tabs on the
case that are supposed to hold the inside gaskets in place hold them fine when
I have the case off (even shook it a little) but once I'm trying to line up
the exhaust manifold to bolt it in those little boogers fall down. I suppose
my tabs have worn down too much to hold them good. I want to put something
on them to keep them in place but I don't want to use something that is going
to be difficult or impossible to get off next time I have to change them out.
Dying to fly...it feels like it has been forever. Lots of people are stopping
by our airport for free BBQ and a fillup on their way to Sun N Fun. It's great
to see all the various planes but sure wish I was in the air with them! If
I can get things running well I will fly to the Vidalia Air Show next weekend
and line my Kolb up on the static display. That should be fun.
--------
Cristal Waters
Kolb Mark II Twinstar
Rotax 503 DCSI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240030#240030
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/exhaust_bracket__welded_with_plate_220.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
Hi,
I like the `D-Day stripes. Interested in your performance figures, what
speed are you climbing at? Your figures are a lot better than mine. What
prop?
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ElleryWeld(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
Congrats on getting your plane done it looks great You will have many
hours of enjoyment in it
it sounds like we have a real pilot that is not afraid to fly his plane
and give us actual info on what the Jabaru will do on a Kolb Thanks for any
performance numbers you can give us with your Kolb Jab combination it sure
sounds like it is preforming very well
Ellery Building Mk3Xtra
In a message dated 4/18/2009 10:04:30 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
ces308(at)ldaco.com writes:
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "ces308"
First of all I am sorry for the size of the pictures...I will try and
shrink any of the others I post.
The Jabiru is the a-2200 , solid lifter ,85 hp direct drive engine.I was
paying more attention to the numbers today and the climb out rpm's are 3150
and I will try and get the climb rate next time up.I did notice today
though that she was off the ground and climbing like a home sick angel in less
than 200 feet.
chris ambrose
m3x-jab[/b]
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | russ kinne <russ(at)rkiphoto.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
Chris
I agree with everyone else - you have one beautiful bird. And like
Pat, I like the D-Day stripes.
And she certainly performs well!
But I can't make out the lettering on the door -- does that say USAAF?
Fair winds,
Russ K
On Apr 18, 2009, at 7:57 PM, ces308 wrote:
>
> I had her up again for a bit this afternoon and cruise is 90 mph on
> the bean at 2900 rpms.
>
> chris ambrose
> m3x-jab
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=239981#239981
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/004_132.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
Thom,
that was 1500 pounds sterling. I still don`t know how I squared my
conscience with spending that amount of money on myself.
Re putting the video on the net. Firstly I dont know how do it. Secondly ,it
is pretty long. The cameras mounted in the plane ran all the time , just
switching from the outside to the inside view,plus stuff my wife took when
we were on the ground... Thirdly, there are longish boring bits of long
climbs with nothing happening. Although I wouldn`t miss a frame it would be
pretty tedious to anyone else.
Fourthly. I made it more watchable (?) by adding other bits of film. For
instance the low beat up sequence includes jinking around factory chimneys,
shooting up railway trains and troop transports on highways .I also added
other flying seqences of Mustangs dogfighting.
I also added a musical soundtrack. Bits of the soudtrack from the film
Battle of Britain , bits of The Dambusters I think plus some rather nice
jazz.
Taking into account the rather combative attitude of the recording industry
at the moment I don`t think I would like to risk the copyright problems
inherent in a situation. where I have stolen both film and music.
I will have a word with my brother in law who is a bit of a whizz with
recording and see if he could put the tape on DVD and perhaps get a copy
although that may present difficulties with the different recording
standards of the UK and the USA.
The original tape supplied by Stallions Inc, the company which does these
flights, was of course in your format and I had some trouble in transfering
it to ours.Then it was copied as the soundtrack was added etc., etc.
The standard of the picture of course degrades everytime these transfers
take place so I have no idea of the quality which might emerge.
I am visiting my brother in law in a couple of weeks. I will take my tape to
him and see what he can conjure up.
Don`t hold your breath
Pat.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
What prop and Pitch? Surely sounds fantastic !!! :-) Herb
At 06:11 AM 4/19/2009, you wrote:
>Congrats on getting your plane done it looks great You will have
>many hours of enjoyment in it
>it sounds like we have a real pilot that is not afraid to fly his
>plane and give us actual info on what the Jabaru will do on a Kolb
>Thanks for any performance numbers you can give us with your Kolb
>Jab combination it sure sounds like it is preforming very well
>
>Ellery Building Mk3Xtra
>
>In a message dated 4/18/2009 10:04:30 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>ces308(at)ldaco.com writes:
>
>First of all I am sorry for the size of the pictures...I will try
>and shrink any of the others I post.
>
>The Jabiru is the a-2200 , solid lifter ,85 hp direct drive engine.I
>was paying more attention to the numbers today and the climb out
>rpm's are 3150 and I will try and get the climb rate next time up.I
>did notice today though that she was off the ground and climbing
>like a home sick angel in less than 200 feet.
>
>chris ambrose
>m3x-jab[/b]
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240003#240003==============================================
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
| From: | zeprep251(at)aol.com |
Chris,
? Congratulations! Your X is about 10 mph faster than my C.Every flight is a chance
to perfect your short field skills.I'm curious,what are your stall speed
numbers?
???????????????????? G Aman MK-3C Jab 2200A
-----Original Message-----
From: ces308 <ces308(at)ldaco.com>
Sent: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 7:57 pm
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: New M3X Flies !
I had her up again for a bit this afternoon and cruise is 90 mph on the bean at
2900 rpms.
chris ambrose
m3x-jab
Read this topic online here:
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Attachments:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
I only have about 34 minutes on it...I will keep you all posted on the numbers.Next
time up I will do some stalls and try to get some idea on climb rates.I
believe yesterday I was climbing out at 65-70 mph.Our runway is 2750 long and
I took off right at the the cones at the start and when I got to the end and
made my Xwind leg I was at 900 feet which is our patten alt....I know my Skyhawk
won't do that...
chris ambrose
m3x-jab
Read this topic online here:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Broken exhaust bracket |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15rhb(at)juno.com> |
Cristal, use a little grease to hold nuts and bushings in place while you are readying
to tighten them down. This job of putting on the muffler is tedious and
frustrating as I have done this a few times myself. The muffler is heavy trying
to hold it in place while the bushings stay in place. It sounds like you are
just a few steps away before taking to the skies again.
You may want to tie the tail down with a nylon auto tow rope and wrap the other
end around the front wheel of your car. Start the engine and run it up to full
RPM for a minute to test things out before flying. It's much safer this way
in case you missed something.
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar 447
N91493 E-AB
22 years flying it
Kolbra 912UL
N20386
1 year flying it
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240099#240099
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
amazing performance Chris....sounds almost as good or better than a
912s.. What prop...and size...Must be one of those super efficient
, overseas , models? Herb
At 11:13 AM 4/19/2009, you wrote:
>
>I only have about 34 minutes on it...I will keep you all posted on
>the numbers.Next time up I will do some stalls and try to get some
>idea on climb rates.I believe yesterday I was climbing out at 65-70
>mph.Our runway is 2750 long and I took off right at the the cones at
>the start and when I got to the end and made my Xwind leg I was at
>900 feet which is our patten alt....I know my Skyhawk won't do that...
>
>
>chris ambrose
>m3x-jab
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240097#240097
>
>
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>04/18/09 09:55:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
I love the big picture, I was zooming in to see the details of your plane. Post
more, some of the inside also. You did something that I want to do, which is
to finish the area at the back of the Fuselage to make a sharp V into the prop,
I think that would clean up the air a lot going into the prop and maybe get
rid of some of the drag. That plane definitely looks cool, you found a very
nice way to pull off a military paint job on a Kolb.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240128#240128
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DAquaNut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: CHT Probe-Atachment |
List,
Has anyone figured out a way to keep from ruining the CHT attachment
ring under the sparkplug? Mine broke and I would like to keep from replacing
it again if at all possible. Any trick to it?
Ed Diebel FF 62
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
hmpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilfooter419NO62)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Davis <ceddavis(at)gmail.com> |
Well, I've finally admitted that FLYING the firefly was to much fun, and I
just was not going to ever assemble the 2d one. This is more then Kolb kit
s
# 1 & 2 with a quick build, for a lot less.
Please pas to any one interested:
I've post the following on Barnstormers.com: *KOLB FIREFLY
PROJECT*<http://barnstormers.com/classified_328593_Kolb+Firefly+Project.htm
l>-
$4,000 -
*CLEANING OUT THE HANGAR* - Fly the hottest 103 UL @1/2 off!! Partially
assembled Firefly with extras. List price > $8.5k - Contact Charles E.
Davis<http://barnstormers.com/contact_seller.php?to=85167&id=328593&tit
le=Kolb+Firefly+Project&return=%2Flisting.php%3Fmode%3Dusersearch%26use
r%3D85167>,
Owner - located Malvern, PA USA - Telephone: 610 731 9608 .
This is a perfect opportunity for some one looking for a Firefly at a
reasonable price. All the difficult construction and fabrication are done.
Little more then "bolt together and fly".
The sale includes:
1. Wings, including 9 in ailerons (Ready to paint & wired for wingtip
strobes. Includes all lift struts and mounting hardware.)
2. Boom and tail feathers, assembled and painted.
3. Cables, rigged.
4. Cage. Cage was slightly damaged in a nose over and requires welding to
replace two bent. The replacements tubes direct from Travis at Kolb are
included.
5. Nosecone
6. Altimeter, Compass, and ASI
7. Sufficient covering materials for cage.
8. All needed miscellaneous parts to complete a firefly excepted as listed
below.
9. Kuntzleman strobes and hotbox.
10. Original construction manual
What's not included?
1. Engine
2. Landing gear legs.
3. Loose AN hardware (Note: most of the AN hardware is already included i
n
the assembled components)
Looking forward to a great spring & summer flying, not building.
Chuck
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | One Thing At A Time |
Something I temporarily forgot. When test making changes and test flying,
make one change at a time, then go fly to see what the results are. I
didn't do that yesterday.
My new Warp Drive Blades had a little edge of black paint left when the
masking tape was pulled off the nickle leading edges. I did my initial
pitch adjustments with this tiny ridge of paint. My rpm at WOT straight and
level indicated I was pitched a little bit light, 5,600 rpm.
I did three things to my airplane before I test flew it again:
1-Sanded and feathered the edge even with the trailing edge of the nickle
leading edge.
2-Cleaned and reoiled the K&N air filters.
3-Adjusted the covers on my conical K&N filters to stand off about an inch
rather than the original stock 1/2 inch.
Was rather surprised on takeoff, my climb rpm was only 5200 rather than
5400. Also surprised when my max rpm had dropped to 5,500 rpm WOT straight
and level flight.
Got an idea cleaning up the ridge of paint on the blades may have increased
their bite.
Don't know if the air filter cleaning/reoiling or the change in air filter
cover standoff pulled power off the engine. Hope that is not the case.
On the other hand, it is hard to believe that tiny ridge of paint would have
that much effect on its performance, but I think it did.
john h
mkIII - Getting ready for Lakeland and Monument Valley.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CHT Probe-Atachment |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
[quote="DAquaNut(at)aol.com"]List,
Has anyone figured out a way to keep from ruining the CHT attachment ring
under the sparkplug? Mine broke and I would like to keep from replacing it again
if at all possible. Any trick to it?
Ed Diebel FF 62
A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps!
> [b]
Form the CHT sender around a spark plug and the socket before installing the plug
into the engine.
Put the plug in the socket and then place the sender ring over it and bend the
sender around that by hand.
Then when you actually install the plug, it's already pre bent and shaped. You
don't crunch up the sender as you force the socket over the works and crank the
plug down.....
I spent a whole bunch of money on senders before someone told me about that trick.
Helped a bunch....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240138#240138
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
> Something I temporarily forgot. When making changes and test flying,
> make one change at a time, then go fly to see what the results are. I
> didn't do that yesterday.
The above is how it should have read from my previous.
20,000 xin loi
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
Hello Mike,
here is a picture of the inside...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240141#240141
Attachments:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Float Bowls and Contaminated Fuel |
Good idea to check and clean the float bowls on you two and four stroke Kolb
aircraft power plants.
All it takes is a tiny drop of moisture to start the corrosion growing.
Don't risk an engine out by not checking your float bowls at least once a
month. More would not hurt a thing.
Be careful reinstalling. Make sure the gasket is in the groove before
pulling the bail in place. A leaky float bowl gasket will make a 912ULS run
very poorly. We had this happen to a friend's 912ULS at a flyin last
summer.
Don't forget the fuel filter either.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Broken exhaust bracket |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
[quote="rowedenny"]
>
>
> The stainless springs from JBM last forever.
>
> G Aman
>
>
The Rotax Steel springs holding my Titan muffler broke after only 8 hours [Evil
or Very Mad] The steel springs corrode very quickly with heat and caused very
early corrosion failures in my engine.
I got the JBM stainless steel springs, they are cheaper than the Rotax springs
and after 200 hours are still as good as new !!! Get the JBM and springs will
no longer be a problem.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240148#240148
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Broken exhaust bracket |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
[quote="JetPilot"]
rowedenny wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > The stainless springs from JBM last forever.
> >
> > G Aman
> >
> >
>
>
> The Rotax Steel springs holding my Titan muffler broke after only 8 hours [Evil
or Very Mad] The steel springs corrode very quickly with heat and resulted
in very early spring failures on my 912-S.
>
> I got the JBM stainless steel springs, they are cheaper than the Rotax springs
and after 200 hours are still as good as new !!! Get the JBM and springs will
no longer be a problem.
>
> Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240149#240149
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
John Hauck wrote:
> Something I temporarily forgot. When test making changes and test flying,
> make one change at a time, then go fly to see what the results are. I
> didn't do that yesterday.
>
> My new Warp Drive Blades had a little edge of black paint left when the
> masking tape was pulled off the nickle leading edges. I did my initial
> pitch adjustments with this tiny ridge of paint. My rpm at WOT straight and
> level indicated I was pitched a little bit light, 5,600 rpm.
>
> I did three things to my airplane before I test flew it again:
>
> 1-Sanded and feathered the edge even with the trailing edge of the nickle
> leading edge.
>
> 2-Cleaned and reoiled the K&N air filters.
>
> 3-Adjusted the covers on my conical K&N filters to stand off about an inch
> rather than the original stock 1/2 inch.
>
> Was rather surprised on takeoff, my climb rpm was only 5200 rather than
> 5400. Also surprised when my max rpm had dropped to 5,500 rpm WOT straight
> and level flight.
>
> Got an idea cleaning up the ridge of paint on the blades may have increased
> their bite.
>
> Don't know if the air filter cleaning/reoiling or the change in air filter
> cover standoff pulled power off the engine. Hope that is not the case.
>
> On the other hand, it is hard to believe that tiny ridge of paint would have
> that much effect on its performance, but I think it did.
>
> john h
> mkIII - Getting ready for Lakeland and Monument Valley.
I've added and taken off leading edge tape and foil on quit a few props over the
years and never noticed any change in the performance. Those were IVOs, wood
props and powerfins mostly tho. Could make a difference on the WD, I'm only on
my second one.
Oiling K&N's tho, has given me positively scary results ;). I never developed the
trick to what's the right amount of oil, so I oil extremely lightly or not
at all to avoid the plugged filter syndrome at that worst possible time.
Dennis Kirby flew out to KSAF this am and we finally shook hands and talked planes,
props and flying for a bit. The NM posse is in formation. Dennis is going
to invite the Belin trikers to come along too which would be positively neat.
I'm going to call the owner of the other Titan on our field this week and see
if he wants to go too.
Former partner in my titan may go in his RV-6A, tho he'll be a lone wolf at his
speeds....
Still waiting on my vacation grant from work, I'm guardedly optimistic that I'll
get it but then again in this economy I may not be in a good position to fight
back if I get turned down.
I'm planning to go meanwhile.
The likely gathering spots for the NM posse are either Double Eagle airport or
Gallup at this point.
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240150#240150
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | =?iso-8859-1?Q?=A3xtra_with_Jabi? |
Just as a check I noted revs on this evenings flight.
2800 gave 70 mph. 2900 gave 80 mph. controls had stiffened up quite a
bit at 80. She is obviously much more comfortable to fly at 70 mph.
Climb out at full throttle at 50 mph showed between 9/10 knots on my
vario.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
I bet removing that ridge could make a huge change on the prop. Going so fast,
close to the speed of sound things get very critical. I was looking at a Cirrus
the other day, on the tail it had a piece of tape along the leading edge.
It took looking closely to see a very small v^v^v^v^ zigzag pattern in the tape,
which is acting as a vortex generator. It hardly qualified as a rise in
the tape, just something you would feel if you ran your finger along it. I would
have never thought that a bump almost to small to see would have made any
appreciable difference in the way a cirrus tail flys, but it does !
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240152#240152
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: CHT Probe-Atachment |
At 03:52 PM 4/19/2009, lucien wrote:
>Form the CHT sender around a spark plug and the socket before installing
>the plug into the engine.
>Put the plug in the socket and then place the sender ring over it and bend
>the sender around that by hand.
>
>Then when you actually install the plug, it's already pre bent and shaped...
Also, secure the wire to the engine at some point so the engine's motion on
the vibration mounts isn't flexing the wire where it attaches to the
ring. I slip the wire through a short length of fuel tubing, then tie wrap
that to a point on the muffler mount bracket. Wind some of the section
beyond that around something round, I used some 1/2" rod, to form it into a
coil (then remove the rod, of course), then attach it beyond the coil to
the aircraft frame. The coil allows for more flex as the engine moves.
If it's a simple self powered CHT gauge and not a fancy EIS sender, and if
it's just the wire that's broken right at the terminal (usually is, since
one of the wires is iron which is quite brittle), it's easy to fix instead
of replacing it. Pry open the crimp on the terminal, remove the broken
part, then strip some insulation from the remaining wire, and tightly twist
them together before crimping it back into the terminal. The sender is a
simple thermocouple that generates a voltage by heating the connection
between the two different wires.
-Dana
--
People are more violently opposed to fur than leather because it's safer
to pick on rich women than biker gangs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?=A3xtra?= with Jabi |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
My MK III Xtra also feels really good at 70 MPH which is where I cruise at, 4200
RPM which is about half power. I can push it up to 80 MPH easily enough, but
it just does not feel as nice as smooth as it does at 70 MPH. To get that
extra 10 MPH takes a lot of extra power and fuel, and is just not worth it to
me to get somewhere a few minutes earlier. I don't feel at all bad when I ready
about Arty flying across the country at 60 MPH ;)
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240157#240157
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
Ok ! The prop I am running on my Jabiru is a Sensenich,wood,W58djl44---ae9623...hope
this helps...we are going to have some crappy weather here in Mi so it will
be a bit before I get a chance to post anymore numbers.
chris ambrose
m3x-jab
Read this topic online here:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | source for 90 deg. air filter boot? |
| From: | "Jimmy Young" <jdy100(at)comcast.net> |
Kolb Folks,
I have a K&N filter on my carb, mounted horizontal (see photo). Last summer someone
mentioned I may get better performance by turning the filter 90 deg. into
the windstream and going with the conical-style K&N filter common to the 912's.
I have been looking long and hard for a 90 deg adapter or boot, but have not
located one. I could fab one up, but would rather find one already made if I
can. Anyone out there know a source for such an animal?
Thanks -
Jimmy Y
--------
Jimmy Young
FS II, Generac V-Twin
Houston TX area
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
> The likely gathering spots for the NM posse are either Double Eagle
airport or Gallup at this point.
>
> LS
My last refuel prior to Monument Valley is Gallup. Easy in and out, if the
wind is not atrocious, like last year.
Also, even if the courtesy car is unavailable, it is an easy walk to a good
restaurant.
Also got fuel and RON at Double Eagle. Got relatives in Rio Rancho.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: source for 90 deg. air filter boot? |
Anyone out there know a source for such an animal?
>
> Jimmy Y
PVC, ruber hose, and hose clamps.
Or, go to a parts store. Ask if you can go behind the counter and look for
a radiator hose that has the correct size and bend you are looking for.
That is how I obtained most of the coolant hoses for my 912.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: source for 90 deg. air filter boot? |
| From: | "Jimmy Young" <jdy100(at)comcast.net> |
>>PVC, rubber hose, and hose clamps.
--------
Jimmy Young
FS II, Generac V-Twin
Houston TX area
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240173#240173
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CHT Probe-Atachment |
Get an 8mm ring & put it [them] under a head bolt; reads some lower but
it will do the job.
Howard Shackleford
FS II
SC
In a message dated 4/19/2009 3:41:08 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
DAquaNut(at)aol.com writes:
Has anyone figured out a way to keep from ruining the CHT attachment ring
under the sparkplug? Mine broke and I would like to keep from replacing it
again if at all possible. Any trick to it?
Ed Diebel FF 62
**************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the
web. Get the Radio Toolbar!
(http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000003)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | source for 90 deg. air filter boot? |
Jimmy=2C
There are several companies on eBay the sell intercooler tubing kits. So
me of these companies also sell the individual parts=2C....like the silicon
e 90 degree elbows. If you do a intercooler tubing search on eBay=2C you c
an find these outfits.
I have many of the aluminum tubes and silicone fitting left over from my
turbocharger installation.
BTW=2C the clamps that came with my kit were almost certified aircraft qu
ality!! Surprisingly nice stuff!
Exactly what size tubing or elbow are you looking for? I may have it in
my left over box. I have lots of thinwall 2" tubes and several silicone fi
ttings.
Mike Welch
MkIII
> Subject: Kolb-List: source for 90 deg. air filter boot?
> From: jdy100(at)comcast.net
> Date: Sun=2C 19 Apr 2009 14:17:51 -0700
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Kolb Folks=2C
>
> I have a K&N filter on my carb=2C mounted horizontal (see photo). Last su
mmer someone mentioned I may get better performance by turning the filter 9
0 deg. into the windstream and going with the conical-style K&N filter comm
on to the 912's. I have been looking long and hard for a 90 deg adapter or
boot=2C but have not located one. I could fab one up=2C but would rather fi
nd one already made if I can. Anyone out there know a source for such an an
imal?
>
> Thanks -
>
> Jimmy Y
>
> --------
> Jimmy Young
> FS II=2C Generac V-Twin
> Houston TX area
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240161#240161
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscn0418_118.jpg
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Wandering Wench is on her way |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
Arty made it to Sun and Fun, a couple days early at that !!! Her spot tracker
shows her position on the airport now. That is just so cool she flew a drifter
from Oregon to Florida, must have been a great experience.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240178#240178
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wandering Wench is on her way |
> Arty made it to Sun and Fun, a couple days early at that !!! Her spot
> tracker shows her position on the airport now. That is just so cool she
> flew a drifter from Oregon to Florida, must have been a great experience.
>
> Mike
That is great!
One leg at a time.
I'll be looking forward to seeing her Tuesday at Paradise City.
I plan on leaving here late, taking advantage of a NW wind all the way down.
Will be camping in the UL tie down area with my Kolb, as usual.
Come by and sit a spell.
john h
mkIII
hauck's holler, alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: source for 90 deg. air filter boot? |
| From: | "Jimmy Young" <jdy100(at)comcast.net> |
Mike Welch wrote:
>Exactly what size tubing or elbow are you looking for?? <
Mike,
I need a 2" i.d. elbow. If it's thin wall material, the K&N filter will probably
stretch over it without having to use a reducer. I'll email you off-line to
follow up, and thanks for the offer. :D
Jimmy Y
--------
Jimmy Young
FS II, Generac V-Twin
Houston TX area
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240188#240188
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wandering Wench is on her way |
| From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
John H,
Look at what you went and started when you got into that Kolb many years ago and
decided to fly across the country [Wink] Now you have a bunch of us dreaming,
and some doing the same thing ! From the first time I looked at your
pictures and read about your flights, I was hooked. I am sure there are a number
of us here flying, and building Kolbs because of flights like yours, and also
this one. Have a great time at Sun and Fun.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240198#240198
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wandering Wench is on her way |
Have a great time at Sun and Fun.
>
> Mike
Thanks, Mike.
Are you and your Wife going to make it to S&F this year?
Talked to Travis Brown about noon today. He and Dennis were coming through
Atlanta, GA, in the rain.
Going to be different this year with the entire Kolb crew consisting of
Travis and Dennis. We'll have a good time though, as usual.
Travis said they will be set up in the same spot they always are, right
beside the lemonade stand and the control tower.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb List Re: q |
- Thom- Last summer there was a visit to Bradley by several old WWII plan
es.- Collings Foundation arranged it,-and they included a B-24, B-17, B
-25 or -26, and a dual seat P-51 (I think a "D" version).- If I remember,
it was $3,200 an hour for the P-51.- Check their web site.- I couldn't
afford a flight in any of them, but did stay around when they all left tog
ether.- Unforgettable.- They were flying over my house for a couple of
days- very low (I am one mile off the end of the runway).
-
-------------------------
--------------------- Bill Sulliv
an
-------------------------
--------------------- Windsor Loc
ks, Ct.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb List Re: q |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
I believe you can still get a ride in the EAA's B-17.I took the ride and at that
time they even let you fly it for a bit! I have .4 hrs B-17G transition time
in my log book ! It also came with a beautiful flight jacket.It cost $500.00
and it was the Best money I ever spent ! I would recommend it to anyone !Even
now it brings a smile to my face !
chris ambrose
m3x-jab
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240226#240226
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Oldman" <aoldman(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
While I can not give any advise on 912 engines I believe I can on 503s. Over
oiling the air filter will reduce RPM.
I wash the filters in warm soapy water or KNL cleaning solution and let dry
in the sun. I do not put any oil on them. When its time to change the plugs
its also time to clean the air filters. .Over oiled filters will leave tell
tail splotchs of oil on the tail plane and shortly after that you may notice
a reluctance to reach full RPM on take off. Removal of the filters at this
stage and it feels like you have been turbo charged.
Regards
Tony
Downunder
MK111c
503
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 8:31 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: One Thing At A Time
>
>
> John Hauck wrote:
>> Something I temporarily forgot. When test making changes and test
>> flying,
>> make one change at a time, then go fly to see what the results are. I
>> didn't do that yesterday.
>>
>> My new Warp Drive Blades had a little edge of black paint left when the
>> masking tape was pulled off the nickle leading edges. I did my initial
>> pitch adjustments with this tiny ridge of paint. My rpm at WOT straight
>> and
>> level indicated I was pitched a little bit light, 5,600 rpm.
>>
>> I did three things to my airplane before I test flew it again:
>>
>> 1-Sanded and feathered the edge even with the trailing edge of the nickle
>> leading edge.
>>
>> 2-Cleaned and reoiled the K&N air filters.
>>
>> 3-Adjusted the covers on my conical K&N filters to stand off about an
>> inch
>> rather than the original stock 1/2 inch.
>>
>> Was rather surprised on takeoff, my climb rpm was only 5200 rather than
>> 5400. Also surprised when my max rpm had dropped to 5,500 rpm WOT
>> straight
>> and level flight.
>>
>> Got an idea cleaning up the ridge of paint on the blades may have
>> increased
>> their bite.
>>
>> Don't know if the air filter cleaning/reoiling or the change in air
>> filter
>> cover standoff pulled power off the engine. Hope that is not the case.
>>
>> On the other hand, it is hard to believe that tiny ridge of paint would
>> have
>> that much effect on its performance, but I think it did.
>>
>> john h
>> mkIII - Getting ready for Lakeland and Monument Valley.
>
>
> I've added and taken off leading edge tape and foil on quit a few props
> over the years and never noticed any change in the performance. Those were
> IVOs, wood props and powerfins mostly tho. Could make a difference on the
> WD, I'm only on my second one.
>
> Oiling K&N's tho, has given me positively scary results ;). I never
> developed the trick to what's the right amount of oil, so I oil extremely
> lightly or not at all to avoid the plugged filter syndrome at that worst
> possible time.
>
> Dennis Kirby flew out to KSAF this am and we finally shook hands and
> talked planes, props and flying for a bit. The NM posse is in formation.
> Dennis is going to invite the Belin trikers to come along too which would
> be positively neat. I'm going to call the owner of the other Titan on our
> field this week and see if he wants to go too.
> Former partner in my titan may go in his RV-6A, tho he'll be a lone wolf
> at his speeds....
>
> Still waiting on my vacation grant from work, I'm guardedly optimistic
> that I'll get it but then again in this economy I may not be in a good
> position to fight back if I get turned down.
> I'm planning to go meanwhile.
>
> The likely gathering spots for the NM posse are either Double Eagle
> airport or Gallup at this point.
>
> LS
>
> --------
> LS
> Titan II SS
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240150#240150
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
| From: | "David Lucas" <d_a_lucas(at)hotmail.com> |
Can remember, years ago, where someone dimpled the camber face of his prop blade
much like a golf ball has dimples in it and got a slight increase in performance
together with about 100 RPM increase at a given power setting. Just dug out
the notes I had on it (sorry no photo's);
The dimples were centered on the face of the propeller at the peak of the
camber of the prop blade, 3 rows .5 inches apart. The dimples were
staggered on 3/4 inch center. Diameter and depth of dimple did not not seem too
critical. He used a diameter of approximately .200 by .100 deep.
Also; Wicks Aircraft Supply (1-800-221-9425) Part number 259-200 for homebuilt
vortelator kit for the prop is one option that allows you to try similar technology
without drilling holes in your wood propeller. This modification benefits
props that are less than ideally efficient.
This info is a bit old, so part No's etc might have changed.
David.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240241#240241
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Fredrick Kerfoot <fredkt46(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Driving to Sun-N-Fun |
If you are planning to drive to the Sun-N-Fun best pack a lunch. The manag
ement of the of the Sun-N-Fun in their never-ending=2C undying and limitles
s greed have decided to once again charge for parking. ($5.00 per vehicle p
er day or $20.00 for the week) In years past this fleecing of the flock ha
s resulted in traffic delays of well over a hour. The individual at the re
gistration desk assured me "this time it would be different" because there
would be three people at the gate grabbing the cash. (Did I mention it is C
ASH only?) Yeah I've seen that tried before too. Oh well=2C perhaps the e
ver diminishing attendance will help to mitigate the delays. Geez=2C the n
ext thing you know they will be charging landing and tie down fees. Those
old boys sure know how to beat a dying horse.
Fred K p.s. I don't think there will be any need for me to buy a we
ek pass.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
I do have a K&N filter on my solex but consider it to be mostly a bug
screen too.
Probably needs a debugging this spring.
K&N advertises aftermarket intake filter kits in all the car mags.
predicting X amount of increased hp
which is a lot of BS. In most cases the factory big box type filter
has been engineered to get as good as
you will get. Any perceived benefit from the K&N is just that....
perceived, like how you swear your
engine now runs smoother after that oil change. -not.
BB
On 20, Apr 2009, at 3:34 AM, Tony Oldman wrote:
>
> While I can not give any advise on 912 engines I believe I can on
> 503s. Over oiling the air filter will reduce RPM.
> I wash the filters in warm soapy water or KNL cleaning solution and
> let dry in the sun. I do not put any oil on them. When its time to
> change the plugs its also time to clean the air filters. .Over
> oiled filters will leave tell tail splotchs of oil on the tail
> plane and shortly after that you may notice a reluctance to reach
> full RPM on take off. Removal of the filters at this stage and it
> feels like you have been turbo charged.
>
> Regards
> Tony
> Downunder
> MK111c
> 503
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, April 20, 2009 8:31 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: One Thing At A Time
>
>
>>
>>
>> John Hauck wrote:
>>> Something I temporarily forgot. When test making changes and
>>> test flying,
>>> make one change at a time, then go fly to see what the results
>>> are. I
>>> didn't do that yesterday.
>>>
>>> My new Warp Drive Blades had a little edge of black paint left
>>> when the
>>> masking tape was pulled off the nickle leading edges. I did my
>>> initial
>>> pitch adjustments with this tiny ridge of paint. My rpm at WOT
>>> straight and
>>> level indicated I was pitched a little bit light, 5,600 rpm.
>>>
>>> I did three things to my airplane before I test flew it again:
>>>
>>> 1-Sanded and feathered the edge even with the trailing edge of
>>> the nickle
>>> leading edge.
>>>
>>> 2-Cleaned and reoiled the K&N air filters.
>>>
>>> 3-Adjusted the covers on my conical K&N filters to stand off
>>> about an inch
>>> rather than the original stock 1/2 inch.
>>>
>>> Was rather surprised on takeoff, my climb rpm was only 5200
>>> rather than
>>> 5400. Also surprised when my max rpm had dropped to 5,500 rpm
>>> WOT straight
>>> and level flight.
>>>
>>> Got an idea cleaning up the ridge of paint on the blades may have
>>> increased
>>> their bite.
>>>
>>> Don't know if the air filter cleaning/reoiling or the change in
>>> air filter
>>> cover standoff pulled power off the engine. Hope that is not the
>>> case.
>>>
>>> On the other hand, it is hard to believe that tiny ridge of paint
>>> would have
>>> that much effect on its performance, but I think it did.
>>>
>>> john h
>>> mkIII - Getting ready for Lakeland and Monument Valley.
>>
>>
>> I've added and taken off leading edge tape and foil on quit a few
>> props over the years and never noticed any change in the
>> performance. Those were IVOs, wood props and powerfins mostly tho.
>> Could make a difference on the WD, I'm only on my second one.
>>
>> Oiling K&N's tho, has given me positively scary results ;). I
>> never developed the trick to what's the right amount of oil, so I
>> oil extremely lightly or not at all to avoid the plugged filter
>> syndrome at that worst possible time.
>>
>> Dennis Kirby flew out to KSAF this am and we finally shook hands
>> and talked planes, props and flying for a bit. The NM posse is in
>> formation. Dennis is going to invite the Belin trikers to come
>> along too which would be positively neat. I'm going to call the
>> owner of the other Titan on our field this week and see if he
>> wants to go too.
>> Former partner in my titan may go in his RV-6A, tho he'll be a
>> lone wolf at his speeds....
>>
>> Still waiting on my vacation grant from work, I'm guardedly
>> optimistic that I'll get it but then again in this economy I may
>> not be in a good position to fight back if I get turned down.
>> I'm planning to go meanwhile.
>>
>> The likely gathering spots for the NM posse are either Double
>> Eagle airport or Gallup at this point.
>>
>> LS
>>
>> --------
>> LS
>> Titan II SS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240150#240150
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
slyck(at)frontiernet.net wrote:
> I do have a K&N filter on my solex but consider it to be mostly a bug
> screen too.
> Probably needs a debugging this spring.
> K&N advertises aftermarket intake filter kits in all the car mags.
> predicting X amount of increased hp
> which is a lot of BS. In most cases the factory big box type filter
> has been engineered to get as good as
> you will get. Any perceived benefit from the K&N is just that....
> perceived, like how you swear your
> engine now runs smoother after that oil change. -not.
> BB
>
Don't want to get into a K&N bash fest, but truth is the unoiled filter is perfectly
adequate for our needs as we generally don't run our motors on the ground
for long periods of time. Mostly we're up in the clean air.
Oiling is a black art the first few times you do it and making a mistake those
first couple of times till you get the hang of it can be very expensive and possibly
painful.
I practically never oil mine for that reason as I'd rather be assured the fan keeps
turning after cleaning and installation. Without the oil they still filter
quite well, certainly well enough for our needs.
First annual I did on my plane was with an AnP over at Los Alamos, NM. Anyone who's
flown in there knows your only choice for departure involves a 500' or deeper
cliff right off the east end of the runway into a giant canyon (with who-knows-what
buried down there from activities of LANL). No way I was going to blast
off from there with freshly oiled filters so we left em dry (and they stayed
that way till I replaced them).....
Finally, do use the K&N solvent for cleaning, tho. A regular solvent will eventually
damage the element....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240255#240255
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: One thing at a time |
- Lucien- Please correct me if I'm wrong.- A friend with extensive 2-st
roke knowledge told me that oiling the K&N filter is generally unnecessary
because a 2-stroke at idle will "chuff" back into the filter, leaving oil.
-This would not apply to 2-strokes with a reed valve. -If run at low sp
eeds for a while it will become over oiled.- If oiled as per spec, and th
en run at low speed, it can cause noticable loss of power.- He said what
you said- for our usage, clean and don't oil.--Would you agree with thi
s?
-
-------------------------
--------------------- Bill Sulliv
an
-------------------------
--------------------- Windsor Loc
ks, Ct.
-------------------------
--------------------- FS 447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb List Re: q |
get a ride in the EAA's B-17.I>>
I saw a B17 and a Liberator during a tour they did of Florida some years
ago. One of the guys doing the tour in the B17 had done a few ops. and as I
was able to identify a `G` and knew they had been basesd in Framlingham in
the UK he recognised a fellow flyer and he was obviously relieved to be able
to talk to someone who had at least an inkling what it was all about.
A visitor walking through the fuselage stopped and tapped the alloy skin and
said `Is that all you had to keep the bullets out?` The crewmans eyes
rolled in his head and his eyebrows crawled up his forehead but very
professionally he said "Thats just to keep the weather out,Sir" Then he
caught my eye and we both creased up.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
Lucien/Gang:
My experience and opinions only.
I don't know where you have been flying, but there isn't any clean air, even
if it looks clean.
I would not consider operating my engine without the K&N filter oiled.
> Don't want to get into a K&N bash fest, but truth is the unoiled filter
is perfectly adequate for our needs as we generally don't run our motors on
the ground for long periods of time. Mostly we're up in the clean air.
You just think "we're up in the clean air." Short local flights will
probably not give you a real indication of how much dirt that little gold
plated engine is injesting, but do an 8 hour flight day and you will be
amazed at the amount of crude that collects on the leading edges of
everything. What you don't see when flying is what can hurt you.
> Oiling is a black art the first few times you do it and making a mistake
those first couple of times till you get the hang of it can be very
expensive and possibly painful.
I'm not an expert at cleaning and oiling K&N air filters, so I usually over
oil. I also clean them with gasoline. I think it does a better job, is
quicker, and a lot less expensive. I have never seen gasoline damage
cotton. I have never had an engine problem because of a K&N oil filter that
was over oiled.
> I practically never oil mine for that reason as I'd rather be assured the
> fan keeps turning after cleaning and installation. Without the oil they
> still filter quite well, certainly well enough for our needs.
I wouldn't buy an engine if I new it had been operated without an adequate
air filter.
Again, I am not going to gamble on the life of my engine by not oiling the
filter. In addition to the airplane, I also use oiled cotton and oiled foam
rubber air filter elements on my ATV and dirt bike. Without the "correct"
oil, they probably would not last all day.
There is a difference between the oil used for cotton and foam elements.
Best not get them mixed up. Seems the oil for foam elements is quite sticky
and thicker than oil used for cotton.
> Finally, do use the K&N solvent for cleaning, tho. A regular solvent will
> eventually damage the element....
Again, my own experience and opinions only.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb List Re: q |
(I think a "D" version). If I remember, it was $3,200 an hour for the
P-51. Check their web site. I couldn't afford a flight in any of
them,>>
Hi Bill,
allowing for general price increase that would jibe OK with my =A31500.
Yes it was a "D".
No,I couldn`t afford it either but it seems cheap now.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | russ kinne <russ(at)rkiphoto.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wandering Wench is on her way |
Have fun, all the best, fair winds
Russ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: One thing at a time |
Bill S:
Far as I know, most two and four stroke engines experience what I call
"fuel vapor stand off". That is a little fuel vapor cloud that sits a
couple inches off the mouth of the carb. I discovered this when I was a
kid experimenting (playing) with the B&S engine on my Dads lawn mower.
My 1935 Ford pickup did the same thing. My 447 and my 912 engines do it
too. That is where a lot of excess oil is coming from on two strokes
that are configured with the air filters/carbs positioned perpendicular
to the air stream. Wind blows that little cloud of fuel vapor out of
the filter.
My 912 K&N filters are red after oiling, but will be blue the next time
I pull them for cleaning and oiling. Why, lots of blue dye in 100LL.
How does the air filter get satuarated with this dye when there is
constant vacuum pulling air from outside to inside?
If you all think you do not need to oil your K&N filters, that is your
business. Personally, I think K&N engineers know a lot more about their
filters than the average man on the street.
Most all the sand rails, dune buggies, and atv's I ran into in the dunes
of California, Arizona, and Nevada, use oiled cotton air filter
elements, either K&N or some of the newer names or air filter producers.
Doubt you'll see any of those filters run dry.
john h
mkIII
Lucien- Please correct me if I'm wrong. A friend with
extensive 2-stroke knowledge told me that oiling the K&N filter is
generally unnecessary because a 2-stroke at idle will "chuff" back into
the filter, leaving oil. This would not apply to 2-strokes with a reed
valve. If run at low speeds for a while it will become over oiled. If
oiled as per spec, and then run at low speed, it can cause noticable
loss of power. He said what you said- for our usage, clean and don't
oil. Would you agree with this?
Bill Sullivan
Windsor Locks,
Ct.
FS 447
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
Sensenich,wood,W58djl44---ae9623..>>
Hi Chris,
what does that mean in feet and inches or even centimetres?
My reprt of 10knot climb at 50mph should have been 1000ft per min.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
Pat
Not Chris...but in front of the puter now...
58 inches in dia... 44 inch pitch... Sensenich makes super
props... been doing it for a long time...not sure about the ae9623... Herb
At 08:52 AM 4/20/2009, you wrote:
>
>Sensenich,wood,W58djl44---ae9623..>>
>
>Hi Chris,
>what does that mean in feet and inches or even centimetres?
>
>My reprt of 10knot climb at 50mph should have been 1000ft per min.
>
>Pat
>
>
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>04/19/09 20:04:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
What are you swinging Pat? Herb
At 08:52 AM 4/20/2009, you wrote:
>
>Sensenich,wood,W58djl44---ae9623..>>
>
>Hi Chris,
>what does that mean in feet and inches or even centimetres?
>
>My reprt of 10knot climb at 50mph should have been 1000ft per min.
>
>Pat
>
>
>Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>04/19/09 20:04:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb List Re: q |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
A "G" model 17 has the chin turret .When I took the ride in it ,all I could think
of is the fact that they were in these airplanes for 8-10 hrs a time ,at deafening
levels of sound and bullets flying through it...it was an incredibly awe
inspiring experience .If you can ever get the chance...TAKE IT !
chris ambrose
m3x-jab
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240277#240277
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New M3X Flies ! |
> My reprt of 10knot climb at 50mph should have been 1000ft per min.
>
> Pat
Thought you all might do it different over there.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
John Hauck wrote:
>
> You just think "we're up in the clean air." Short local flights will
> probably not give you a real indication of how much dirt that little gold
> plated engine is injesting, but do an 8 hour flight day and you will be
> amazed at the amount of crude that collects on the leading edges of
> everything. What you don't see when flying is what can hurt you.
>
It's not where you go, it's how long you're up.
The acid test is pulling the filter after a period of running time and seeing if
anything has collected on the inside. I.e. if you drag a finger along the inner
part of the filter and it leaves a little road in some dust, then you have
a leak or the element is letting dirt in.
I've run the K&N's for about a decade and many 100's of hours without oiling and
have never seen anything other than a completely clean filter on the inside.
Damage to the element due to using the wrong solvent (i.e. any kind of kerosene)
will give you telltale little bits of white stuff on the inside of the filter.
>
> I'm not an expert at cleaning and oiling K&N air filters, so I usually over
> oil. I also clean them with gasoline. I think it does a better job, is
> quicker, and a lot less expensive. I have never seen gasoline damage
> cotton. I have never had an engine problem because of a K&N oil filter that
> was over oiled.
>
I have had trouble and in the most notable case was extremely lucky that the plane
was a slow one and I had plenty of runway left.
Rich running and low power is another common result I've had before I finally decided
not to use the oil anymore.
Never again for me.
>
> Again, I am not going to gamble on the life of my engine by not oiling the
> filter. In addition to the airplane, I also use oiled cotton and oiled foam
> rubber air filter elements on my ATV and dirt bike. Without the "correct"
> oil, they probably would not last all day.
>
> There is a difference between the oil used for cotton and foam elements.
> Best not get them mixed up. Seems the oil for foam elements is quite sticky
> and thicker than oil used for cotton.
>
The hazard from over oiling is far, far greater than not oiling the filter and
being assured of good airflow and correct mixture. Again, it has not been my experience
that the K&N doesn't work adequately without oiling but it definitely
has been my experience that an over oiled filter is extremely dangerous and
the greater of two evils.
How well the filter is functioning is easy to verify by pulling it on a regular
basis and checking the inside, and I've never observed a problem anywhere I've
flown any of my engines.
My experience and opinions only as well,
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=240279#240279
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | K I <wrk2win4u(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
Regarding filtering =93clean air=94=3B I agree with most everything John ha
s posted. Where I differ from John is=3B I don=92t like to use gasoline for
anything except the fuel tank
I bought my diesel truck new in =9396. When it was time to change the air c
leaner=2C I replaced it with a K&N. The filter has been used for over 120K
miles=2C (12 years) and is in great condition.
Yes=2C it can be costly to clean and oil filters. All of my vehicles and tr
actor now have K&N filters. I have used paint thinner as a cleaning solvent
for the filters. This breaks down the oil and releases the gathered gunk.
It does not appear to harm the filter fibers at all. Use a regular pump bot
tle you can buy at Wal-Mart to apply the thinner. Then wash the filter in a
dish soap/warm water solution. Allow it to dry before applying the oil. I
buy the genuine K&N oil from an online auto parts distributor in the 1 gall
on container. If you warm the oil before applying it=2C it will move throug
h the pump easier and will permeate the filter.
Just an opinion of a reader of the list.
I am still looking for MY KOLB.
Kurt
Sandy=2C Utah
> From: jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: One Thing At A Time
> Date: Mon=2C 20 Apr 2009 08:34:21 -0500
>
>
> Lucien/Gang:
>
> My experience and opinions only.
>
> I don't know where you have been flying=2C but there isn't any clean air
=2C even
> if it looks clean.
>
> I would not consider operating my engine without the K&N filter oiled.
>
> > Don't want to get into a K&N bash fest=2C but truth is the unoiled filt
er
> is perfectly adequate for our needs as we generally don't run our motors
on
> the ground for long periods of time. Mostly we're up in the clean air.
>
> You just think "we're up in the clean air." Short local flights will
> probably not give you a real indication of how much dirt that little gold
> plated engine is injesting=2C but do an 8 hour flight day and you will be
> amazed at the amount of crude that collects on the leading edges of
> everything. What you don't see when flying is what can hurt you.
>
> > Oiling is a black art the first few times you do it and making a mistak
e
> those first couple of times till you get the hang of it can be very
> expensive and possibly painful.
>
> I'm not an expert at cleaning and oiling K&N air filters=2C so I usually
over
> oil. I also clean them with gasoline. I think it does a better job=2C is
> quicker=2C and a lot less expensive. I have never seen gasoline damage
> cotton. I have never had an engine problem because of a K&N oil filter th
at
> was over oiled.
>
> > I practically never oil mine for that reason as I'd rather be assured t
he
> > fan keeps turning after cleaning and installation. Without the oil they
> > still filter quite well=2C certainly well enough for our needs.
>
> I wouldn't buy an engine if I new it had been operated without an adequat
e
> air filter.
>
> Again=2C I am not going to gamble on the life of my engine by not oiling
the
> filter. In addition to the airplane=2C I also use oiled cotton and oiled
foam
> rubber air filter elements on my ATV and dirt bike. Without the "correct"
> oil=2C they probably would not last all day.
>
> There is a difference between the oil used for cotton and foam elements.
> Best not get them mixed up. Seems the oil for foam elements is quite stic
ky
> and thicker than oil used for cotton.
>
> > Finally=2C do use the K&N solvent for cleaning=2C tho. A regular solven
t will
> > eventually damage the element....
>
> Again=2C my own experience and opinions only.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Rediscover Hotmail=AE: Get e-mail storage that grows with you.
http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_
Storage2_042009
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: One thing at a time |
- John- I use the K&N pre oiled filter, and I have not had occassion to c
lean it.- I don't know if it could be run dry, but I wouldn't.- Where I
have run it, it was dusty- including my yard.- I have seen engines (log
skidders) destroy their engines in a few hours when somebody ran it without
a filter instead of cleaning it.- Seems like the K&N might allow excess
oil to be pulled through pretty quickly, as opposed to the felt type used o
n a chain saw.- Either way, I think excessive oil would drip off, or get
wiped off.- I don't know if it could retain enough oil to clog.- The ol
d oil bath filters never seemed to restrict air flow (farm tractor and old
trucks).- Could be my friend is full of it- not for the first time, eithe
r.-
- My problem is probably due to the worn out carb parts, not the filter.
- I ordered the parts from Lockwood- should be here this week.
- Have a nice time at S&F, and say-hello to-Travis and Dennis for me.
- I am holding an order for them until they get back.-
-
-------------------------
----------------------- Bill
Sullivan
-------------------------
------------------------Win
dsor Locks, Ct.
-------------------------
----------------------- FS 44
7
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
>
> How well the filter is functioning is easy to verify by pulling it on a
> regular basis and checking the inside, and I've never observed a problem
> anywhere I've flown any of my engines.
>
> My experience and opinions only as well,
>
> LS
I think one would get a better idea of how much dirt is getting through the
filter by checking the inside of the carb and intake manifold, rather than
the inside of the filter.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | K I <wrk2win4u(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: One Thing At A Time |
Regarding filtering =93clean air=94=3B I agree with most everything John ha
s posted. Where I differ from John is=3B I don=92t like to use gasoline for
anything except the fuel tank
I bought my diesel truck new in =9396. When it was time to change the air c
leaner=2C I replaced it with a K&N. The filter has been used for over 120K
miles=2C (12 years) and is in great condition.
April 08, 2009 - April 20, 2009
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-id