Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-iv
September 05, 2009 - September 14, 2009
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Subject: | Re: soldering tail wires |
I haven't seen the article, and it may be ok but Caution would have
to be taken to avoid heating the cable (obviously)
In A&P school they taught us how to do woven cable ends about the
thimble. I had forgotten about it.
We had to make our own fixture to hold the works while it was being
woven. I'm not sure how small a diameter cable would be eligible
but it is a secure method. At one time it was illustrated in the
43-13 literature.
Restorers of authentic antique airplanes sometimes insist that all
their cabling be done this way.
BB
On 5, Sep 2009, at 10:05 AM, Mike Welch wrote:
> Kolb guys,
>
> In the latest copy of Sport Aviation Magazine, there is an
> article about securing the cable thimble with stainless steel wire,
> then soldered the wrapped wire (3 locations).
>
> This method of securing cable fittings allows for a very slender
> cable end, rather than that annoying nodule of a Nico lug. If they
> are finished off with a covering of heat shrink, they look very
> professional.
>
> BTW, although I haven't read the complete article, yet, it
> appears as though the author also did some stress analysis tests
> (destructive testing).
>
> Has anyone fabricated their cables before with this kind of
> method? Really does look nice!!
>
> Mike Welch
> MkIII
>
> Hotmail=AE is up to 70% faster. Now good news travels really fast.
> Try it now.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
Subject: | soldering tail wires |
Hi Bob=2C
I glanced at the article=2C too=2C and like I said=2C I haven't read it f
ully. But=2C I did notice the author mentioned something about testing the
soldered fittings.
A quick scan of the products reveals he used 95% tin/4% silver matrix. I
t melts and flows at 475 degrees. Not likely to do much damage to the cabl
e at those temps.
I'll read the entire article this evening=2C but it sure does look like a
n interesting way to make your own custom cables.
Mike Welch
MkIII
(Mike B. Sorry for the earlier email. Have a nice day.)
From: slyck(at)frontiernet.net
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: soldering tail wires
Date: Sat=2C 5 Sep 2009 12:30:51 -0400
I haven't seen the article=2C and it may be ok but Caution would have to be
taken to avoid heating the cable (obviously)
In A&P school they taught us how to do woven cable ends about the thimble.
I had forgotten about it.
We had to make our own fixture to hold the works while it was being woven.
I'm not sure how small a diameter cable would be eligible
but it is a secure method. At one time it was illustrated in the 43-13 lit
erature.
Restorers of authentic antique airplanes sometimes insist that all their ca
bling be done this way.
BB
On 5=2C Sep 2009=2C at 10:05 AM=2C Mike Welch wrote:
Kolb guys=2C
In the latest copy of Sport Aviation Magazine=2C there is an article abou
t securing the cable thimble with stainless steel wire=2C then soldered the
wrapped wire (3 locations).
This method of securing cable fittings allows for a very slender cable en
d=2C rather than that annoying nodule of a Nico lug. If they are finished
off with a covering of heat shrink=2C they look very professional.
BTW=2C although I haven't read the complete article=2C yet=2C it appears
as though the author also did some stress analysis tests (destructive testi
ng).
Has anyone fabricated their cables before with this kind of method? Real
ly does look nice!!
Mike Welch
MkIII
Hotmail=AE is up to 70% faster. Now good news travels really fast. Try it n
ow.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List">http://www.matronics.
com/Navigator?Kolb-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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tribution
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
You know the NACA report (#140) was interesting in that it compared a
blunt ended wing to two with a wingtip and found wing tips were
better.>>
Hi Rick,
they well may be. I have only questioned whether, with the sort of
flying which most of us do, it makes much difference. If I was going
to put in the sort of mileage that the Hauck does, or your friend with
the Airbike(not familiar with that one) then I should probably be
looking for the best performance possible. Doing flights around the
block on a nice evening or a couple of hundred miles for a fly in
(which is the sort of flying I do) I am not going to break into a sweat
about putting in an extra extra gallon of fuel now and then or worry
about the length of time I can fly hands off..
"Frankly my dear, I don`t give a damn"
I haven`t said that one or the other wing tip is better or worse My
plane flies pretty well, more or less as it came out of the box and I am
not going to spend time in a freezing garage in the winter or waste
flying time in the summer by trying to `improve` it.
Some guys get their kicks flying, some by pulling the plane to pieces
and experimenting with this and that. Thats great. We all love flying in
our different ways. There is nothing to fall out with each other about.
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Posting on the forum |
From: | "dalewhelan" <dalewhelan(at)earthlink.net> |
This is not Kolb related, it seems Kolb list related.
I was accused of fathering a child with a friends wife.
I asked another friend how to deal with it.
He said, "A fire left unfueled dies."
--------
Dale Whelan
503 powered Firestar II
Projection, A simple and interesting Psychological concept
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261614#261614
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Posting on the forum |
From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
dalewhelan wrote:
>
> He said, "A fire left unfueled dies."
>
>
That is a good point, and this latest fire had died a couple days ago. Rick Girard
was so anxious to reignite it, he posted negative comments in a thread last
night, which did not get much attention, people just want this to be over.
Rick Girard and Mike Welch are so desperate to keep this going, they started two
new threads that were nothing but malicious attacks and attempts to keep problems
alive on the list. This is not me causing problems as they claim, they
authored these to threads today, they posted personal attacks, and they are doing
everything in their power to keep this little fued alive. Yes I agree,
this should have gone away a few days ago.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261617#261617
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Subject: | Re: Posting on the forum |
Stop it, stop it, stop it. Didn't you fricken' read my post from 2 hours ago?
Why do you insist on continuing this? One more post that isn't related to Kolbs
and you will be permanently blocked. You have, in direct defiance of my request,
posted more inflammatory text. This is your last chance.
Unbelievable.
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
At 12:23 PM 9/5/2009 Saturday, you wrote:
>
>
>dalewhelan wrote:
>>
>> He said, "A fire left unfueled dies."
>>
>>
>
>
>That is a good point, and this latest fire had died a couple days ago. Rick Girard
was so anxious to reignite it, he posted negative comments in a thread last
night, which did not get much attention, people just want this to be over.
>
>Rick Girard and Mike Welch are so desperate to keep this going, they started two
new threads that were nothing but malicious attacks and attempts to keep problems
alive on the list. This is not me causing problems as they claim, they
authored these to threads today, they posted personal attacks, and they are
doing everything in their power to keep this little fued alive. Yes I agree,
this should have gone away a few days ago.
>
>Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Pat, I love to fly, but I am budget limited. When I'm out of gas money, I
tinker. As far as wingtips go, I have so many other places to look for
improvement, it's pretty far down on the list. Not to mention that they
require recovering the wings which is far outside my monetary capabilities
right now.So far my list looks like this;
1. Wheel pants
2. Cowling
3. Gap seal
4. Tailcone
5. All intersections
6. Recover and fare fuselage
In my book those are the big hitters for drag reduction on my airplane and I
have the materials to carry them out with the exception of the last. If I
want to really dream there's a four stroke engine, but that, too, is a ways
down the road.
Rick
On Sat, Sep 5, 2009 at 12:56 PM, pj.ladd wrote:
> You know the NACA report (#140) was interesting in that it compared a
> blunt ended wing to two with a wingtip and found wing tips were better.>>
>
> Hi Rick,
>
> they well may be. I have only questioned whether, with the sort of flying
> which most of us do, it makes much difference. If I was going to put in
> the sort of mileage that the Hauck does, or your friend with the Airbike(not
> familiar with that one) then I should probably be looking for the best
> performance possible. Doing flights around the block on a nice evening or a
> couple of hundred miles for a fly in (which is the sort of flying I do) I am
> not going to break into a sweat about putting in an extra extra gallon of
> fuel now and then or worry about the length of time I can fly hands off..
> "Frankly my dear, I don`t give a damn"
> I haven`t said that one or the other wing tip is better or worse My plane
> flies pretty well, more or less as it came out of the box and I am not going
> to spend time in a freezing garage in the winter or waste flying time in the
> summer by trying to `improve` it.
> Some guys get their kicks flying, some by pulling the plane to pieces and
> experimenting with this and that. Thats great. We all love flying in our
> different ways. There is nothing to fall out with each other about.
>
> Cheers
>
> Pat
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Kmet" <jlsk1(at)frontiernet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tail shaking |
Daniel, BB, & all, , here`s my experience with the Tail shaking:
Mine is comfortably solid, except the leading edges of both horizontal
stabs.They do vibrate. I twist around to see when they are doing it the
worst. Full power climb out , they are fine. low power , slow flying,
they are fine.
Seem to me they are the worst when I`m trying to cover ground, 5000 rpm
& higher, in level flight, BUT, they will do it also, when I`m in a
relatively high, (like cruise speed), descent with idle power. That
makes me think it is more of a result of turbulent air coming around the
cockpit, than of the thrust from the prop.
Yea, the whole rear end of the plane will shake a little too., but so
does the 182 I fly. When the Piper Tomahawk came out, that big visible
tail scared alot of people when they saw it shaking.
I do have a plan to try, but will take some time to do & I`ll report
back on that later, after I see results. In the mean time, I`d like to
hear more from pilots after they twist around in the coming weeks, &
report back.
Jim Kmet
912-MK3C
Cookeville, TN
----- Original Message -----
From: daniel myers
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, September 04, 2009 8:58 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Tail shaking
Jim, the first time I noticed mine it scared me so bad and called my
friend Jack. He said it was normal, so I kept going. Is yours shaking?
or swaying?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: slyck(at)frontiernet.net
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Tail shaking
Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 21:40:04 -0400
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Jim, my tail wires have never been very tight. They are more so now
than originally but not "twangy"
I have never noticed any problems with vibration or rudder flutter.
The cable thimbles are starting to show
a little wear and will have to be checked closely before next season.
I'm still a little shy about picking up too much speed in a long power
off dive because of the aileron flutter I once had.
(pre-balancers) and pay close attention to what's going on. Seems
good now.
BB
MkIIIc
On 4, Sep 2009, at 5:14 PM, Jim Kmet wrote:
Hi All,
I was talking Offlist with a few fellow Kolbers about the tail wire
tension, (and the Kolblist tension), and a question was posed to me
about how much tailshaking is normal, so, if you guys don`t mind, how
about looking over your shoulder the next time you fly & report back on
this topic please?
With all the talk about the wire attach tangs lately, What We`re
specifically looking for is several things.:
How much , if any, is the leading edges of the horizontal & vertical
stabilizers vibrating in flight? And, If they are any worse or better
at any power settings & or airspeeds?
For instance, does power matter? or Airspeed in a descent with no
power? I will chime in too, but later.
I`m posting this because there are a SEVERAL of Kolb Owner newbies
that have been in touch with me & are reluctant to post to the list,
because of all of the negative comments that have been thrown by a
certain member of this list, & didn't want to stir up more crap. (Sad,
Huh?)
The owners are MK-3C & MK-3X pilots, but I`m sure we all may learn.
Of course, we will all have to understand that the tail wires are as
tight as the owners are comfortable flying with, or they wouldn't` fly.
I know this topics was touched on earlier, `cuz an archive search
yielded John H`s response, but we`d like an up to date comment.
Thanks in advance
Jim Kmet
Cookeville, TN
912 MK-3C
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href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
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ronics.com
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: | gliderx5(at)comcast.net |
Subject: | Re: Kolb gph fuel burn survey |
Malcolm Morrison
MKII, 503SCSI, 3 blade Ivo
5500 RPM, 60 MPH, 3.6 GPH
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eugene Zimmerman" <etzimm(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, August 31, 2009 10:21:14 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb gph fuel burn survey
All Kolbers,
I'm curious what other kolb pilots are experiencing as their gallon
per hour fuel burn?
What is your sustained level flight absolute minimum gal, per hr? At
what engine rpm? And at what cruise speed?
What is your over all "average" gal. per hr. engine rpm, and
cruise speed?
Please specify the model of your plane and engine when you share your
statistics.
Statistic from flights of 2 hours or longer will likely be more
accurate and reliable than shorter flights, but please share whatever
you personally experience with your plane.
Eugene Zimmerman
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Tail shaking |
From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
[quote="jlsk1(at)frontiernet.net"]Hi All,
I was talking Offlist with a few fellow Kolbers about the tail wire tension,
(and the Kolblist tension), and a question was posed to me about how much tailshaking
is normal,
Jim Kmet
Cookeville, TN
912 MK-3C
> [b]
Jim, haven't had a chance to check mine recently, checked it years ago, and it
did do some wiggling and shaking.
Back in the days when I was flying a Hummer, which had a 5" boom tube like the
FS, when you turned around and looked at the tail, it didn't look good, that thing
wiggled and twitched around in the prop blast something fierce. Maxair Drifter
was about the same way. But it never seemed to bother it. IMO, a certain
amount of twitching and wiggling is normal.
How about this: adjust your wires a tad looser than normal, tie the tail wheel
to something secure and run the engine up full throttle and watch it for a while.
Then tighten the wires up snug and try it again. Which ever you like the most,
make that your normal.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261632#261632
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | Bob Green <bgreen(at)bimi.org> |
Will be 66 September 23rd. Flying as PP since 1967. Mostly factory built
but now building a MKIIIX. Looking forward to flying it by next summer.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jody Morgan" <jodymorgan(at)earthlink.net> |
Thanks for the encouragement Pat. I'm hoping it won't be too long now
before I can "GO" and be up there with the rest of you Kolbers.
Minor correction.... It would seem like with the name Jody, one would be a
girl, just doesn't happen to be true in my case. I was named after my dad
so we were both Joes, thus the nick name Jody, which has stuck with me. In
my mind it is a great step up from "Baby Joe" which is what they called me
as a tot. :)
Hoping to get the doors on my building this week so I can actually start
messing with my Kolb project and maybe make some vroooom noises.
Thanks,
Jody
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pj.ladd
Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2009 8:37 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Aging Kolbers
Hey! I'm finally ready to "GET STARTED".>> At 70? Go girl!
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Beauford T" <beauford173(at)verizon.net> |
Subject: | Re: Bing carb cleaning |
Miss Cristal:
You can use just about any aerosol can labeled as "throttle body" and carb
cleaner...without worrying about damaging anything on your Bings...if you use
regular aerosol carburetor cleaner, take care that it does not contact any rubber,
nylon or plastic parts like the floats, the anti-bubble screen over the mainjet,
or the white plastic-looking throat slide part...Regular carburetor cleaner is
for
metal only. There is a fundamental difference between carb cleaner and "throttle
body" carb cleaners... The former will likely soften and damage any non-metal
parts. Throttle body carburetor cleaners and regular carbuerator cleaners are
often stocked side by side in the auto parts stores. This can be dangerous....
They are different products.
...worth what ye paid fer it...
beauford
FF-076
Brandon, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2009 10:06 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Bing carb cleaning
I'm going to clean my carbs while I have them off. Ronnie mentioned in class what
to use to clean it, but I don't think I wrote it down and I doubt I can reach him
on this holiday weekend.
The outside of the carbs are cruddy and I've got to clean up the gunk that
deteriorated choke seal left behind. Has anyone who has taken the 2 stroke or
4
stroke Rotax class got the information of what product is suggested for cleaning
the Bing carbs?
--------
Cristal Waters
Kolb Mark II Twinstar
Rotax 503 DCSI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261572#261572
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Tail shaking |
From: | zeprep251(at)aol.com |
Guys,
? I like them tight too.But if you fold and unfold you have some difficulty getting
that little wing nut started if the tension is too high.Had to compromise
on it some.The tangs on my MK-3 were all bent well past the holes, so far so
good 470hrs and I lube the area where the tangs and thimble touch.Saw some red"smoke
"there and thought lubing was in order
?G.Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Pike <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Sent: Sat, Sep 5, 2009 5:42 pm
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Tail shaking
[quote="jlsk1(at)frontiernet.net"]Hi All,
I was talking Offlist with a few fellow Kolbers about the tail wire tension,
(and the Kolblist tension), and a question was posed to me about how much
tailshaking is normal,
Jim Kmet
Cookeville, TN
912 MK-3C
> [b]
Jim, haven't had a chance to check mine recently, checked it years ago, and it
did do some wiggling and shaking.
Back in the days when I was flying a Hummer, which had a 5" boom tube like the
FS, when you turned around and looked at the tail, it didn't look good, that
thing wiggled and twitched around in the prop blast something fierce. Maxair
Drifter was about the same way. But it never seemed to bother it. IMO, a certain
amount of twitching and wiggling is normal.
How about this: adjust your wires a tad looser than normal, tie the tail wheel
to something secure and run the engine up full throttle and watch it for a
while. Then tighten the wires up snug and try it again. Which ever you like the
most, make that your normal.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261632#261632
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Bing carb cleaning |
From: | "dalewhelan" <dalewhelan(at)earthlink.net> |
Just a note for cleaning jets.
I run a fine wire through the jets to remove any film from the jet walls.
I don't use torch tip cleaners as they will enlarge the jets and richen the mixture.
My favorite wires are, Guitar string, single strand of throttle cable, single strand
of wire brush you may use for cleaning a BBQ
Saves me from cleaning twice or wrecking a two stroke motor
--------
Dale Whelan
503 powered Firestar II
Projection, A simple and interesting Psychological concept
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261672#261672
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tail Wire Tangs Breaking And other Tail Brace Issue |
Continue
Kolbers,
Got to wondering what the loads would be on the upper tail cables and tangs.
I scaled out the FireFly drawings for the horizontal stabilizer and
elevator. By drawing this up and cutting out the combined profile for one
side, I could find the centroid of the area. This is the spot that one
could place all the load that is equivalent to the load being spread over
the whole surface. I know this is not real but for purposes of finding the
table tension under load it works.
The triangle made up of the cable and tangs, the vertical tail post and
stabilizer attachment points make up a right triangle of 25.5 inches high,
34 inches wide with a 42.5 inch long side. The load point turned out to be
15 inches from the inside hinge point.
If one assumes that the FireFly horizontal tail surfaces must hold up 100
pounds in one G flight, then the load on one side would be 50 pounds. By
summing moments and forces and applying a little trig, one can calculate the
cable tension. In this case it turns out to be 37 pounds. If one pushes
the load on up to six G's, the cable tension will increase to 222 pounds.
This is far short of the 2,000 pound load carrying capability of 1/8 inch
cable.
The compression load on the horizontal stabilizer rear member will go from
29.4 to 176.4 pounds. The rudder post has to work a little harder because
it must sustain the load of both sides, so it will go from 61.2 to 367
pounds at six G's.
It looks like Dennis did a good job, in that, there is plenty of reserve in
the design. The cables and the tangs should be adequate as long as one does
not over tighten the cables.
Pre-flight inspections are good.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jim Kmet" <jlsk1(at)frontiernet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tail Wire Tangs Breaking And other Tail Brace Issue |
Continue
NICE JOB !
Jim Kmet
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2009 10:23 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Tail Wire Tangs Breaking And other Tail Brace
Issue Continue
>
> Kolbers,
>
> Got to wondering what the loads would be on the upper tail cables and
> tangs.
> I scaled out the FireFly drawings for the horizontal stabilizer and
> elevator. By drawing this up and cutting out the combined profile for one
> side, I could find the centroid of the area. This is the spot that one
> could place all the load that is equivalent to the load being spread over
> the whole surface. I know this is not real but for purposes of finding
> the
> table tension under load it works.
>
> The triangle made up of the cable and tangs, the vertical tail post and
> stabilizer attachment points make up a right triangle of 25.5 inches high,
> 34 inches wide with a 42.5 inch long side. The load point turned out to
> be
> 15 inches from the inside hinge point.
>
> If one assumes that the FireFly horizontal tail surfaces must hold up 100
> pounds in one G flight, then the load on one side would be 50 pounds. By
> summing moments and forces and applying a little trig, one can calculate
> the
> cable tension. In this case it turns out to be 37 pounds. If one pushes
> the load on up to six G's, the cable tension will increase to 222 pounds.
> This is far short of the 2,000 pound load carrying capability of 1/8 inch
> cable.
>
> The compression load on the horizontal stabilizer rear member will go from
> 29.4 to 176.4 pounds. The rudder post has to work a little harder because
> it must sustain the load of both sides, so it will go from 61.2 to 367
> pounds at six G's.
>
> It looks like Dennis did a good job, in that, there is plenty of reserve
> in
> the design. The cables and the tangs should be adequate as long as one
> does
> not over tighten the cables.
>
> Pre-flight inspections are good.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Winchester, IN
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Winching a Kolb |
In a message dated 9/4/2009 5:12:45 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
donaho1(at)verizon.net writes:
while the tail wheel bracket is very nicely done, I still feel it will
pull rather hard on the
strut. It`s not exactly the strut I`m worried about, it`s the tubing the
strut slides into that seems to take a lot of stress when using the winch.
Lanny,
When running the break-in procedure for the Rotax engine, the FireStar
builders manual instructed me to tie the tail to something solid, like a tree
or an automobile, by threading the rope (or strap) around the tail post at
the boom tube. Maybe that would be a point that you could attach your
winch to.
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
Subject: | Re: Tail shaking |
In a message dated 9/4/2009 9:56:44 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com writes:
But I found out it's those cheap outa round tires I got ( Chin?)
I hit my brakes after take-off and it solves it....
Mike & Jazz,
I had the same problem with cheap made ying yang chin tires. I also did
the 'hit the brakes thing' to stop rotation and vibration after take-off.
But then one day I got over excited and hit the brakes while still on the
ground. Since I only have those go-kart drum brakes, there was no danger of
nosing over, but it did get my attention. I have since used some home made
lead weights to balance the wheel/tire assembly. Used double sided tape
to attach to inner part of wheel rim. Tried to use auto weights but they
wouldn't fit the wheel barrow rims.
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: The Kolb Poll To End All Polls (TKPTEAP) |
From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
Ok, the first 22 or so answers are now available from the poll:
http://www.texas-flyer.com/kolb.htm
I'll update it again tomorrow night.
Thanks everyone! It's a very interesting compilation!
-- Robert
P.S. If you haven't filled it out yet, please, please do!
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Bing carb cleaning |
From: | "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com> |
beauford wrote:
> Miss Cristal:
> You can use just about any aerosol can labeled as "throttle body" and carb
> cleaner...without worrying about damaging anything on your Bings...if you use
> regular aerosol carburetor cleaner, take care that it does not contact any rubber,
> nylon or plastic parts like the floats, the anti-bubble screen over the mainjet,
> or the white plastic-looking throat slide part...Regular carburetor cleaner is
for
> metal only. There is a fundamental difference between carb cleaner and "throttle
> body" carb cleaners... The former will likely soften and damage any non-metal
> parts. Throttle body carburetor cleaners and regular carbuerator cleaners are
> often stocked side by side in the auto parts stores. This can be dangerous....
> They are different products.
>
> ..worth what ye paid fer it...
>
> beauford
> FF-076
> Brandon, FL
>
>
> ---
Thanks Beauford and everyone for the advice. I found a friend today (who built
his own Glasiar a few years ago). He had some Gumout Carb and Choke Cleaner.
It cleaned it up real nice, and he used his air compressor to dry it off and
blow out the bit of deteriorated choke seal that had almost plugged up the choke
tube. Now I'm just waiting on my new "choke piston with gasket" part to get
here. Hoping to get her running by Saturday so I can fly to the Vidalia EAA
Annual Fly-In.
--------
Cristal Waters
Kolb Mark II Twinstar
Rotax 503 DCSI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261695#261695
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
Subject: | Re: Aging Kolbers |
Minor correction.... It would seem like with the name Jody, one would be a
girl, just doesn't happen to be true in my case. I was named after my
dad...>
Hi Jody,
your Dad was a GIRL..? I like your idea of a `minor correction`.. merely a
sex change
Sorry about that. The debil made me do it.
I don`t believe parents think enough about the names or initials they stick
kids with. I get the same problem with Pat being construed as a girls name.
But only once.
Full of admiration for your plans.Good luck from the UK
Cheers
Pat
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From: | "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
.So far my list looks like this;
1. Wheel pants
2. Cowling
3. Gap seal
4. Tailcone
5. All intersections
6. Recover and fare fuselage>>
Hi Rick,
I think you are absolutely right. All those things would produce better
results than friggin` around with wing tips (No JP I have not run any
tests. Just an opinion. OK?)
Unfortunately with my personal weight all those things would put the
plane outside the microlight weight limit here, except the gap seals..
When I had my glider (19 metre Jantar) all gaps were sealed with sticky
tape before flight. Wing roots and every other gap I could find. Of
course it was a very slippery machine and everyone kidded themselves
that all this stuff `improved things. (Maybe it did) but on a draggy
machine like the Kolb I doubt it would achieve much except maybe cut
down a bit of noise.
The wheel pants certainly improved the appearance though. But its a
b*****r getting the mud out of them in winter.
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Tail wheel support and brace |
From: | "icrashrc" <icrashrc(at)aol.com> |
The pictures i posted before are in this thread. I'll check and see if i have any
others if someone needs them.
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=54500&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=8d080f528cbeb98081c2dd0a62a4ef9f
Scott
[/quote]
Mike B/Gang:
I think Scott has some photos of my tail wires. I don't have any with me.
I just wrote a post describing my set up when this thread got started
several days ago.
I made up tangs from 4130 strap. I don't remember the dimensions. Used
cable ferules that look like little pulley wheels instead of thimbles. 4
turnbuckles located top and bottom of each horizontal stab.
I do not fold my airplane.
I like my cables tight. The way I check for proper tension is grab the
upper vertical stab leading edge near the top and the leading edge of a
horizontal stab near the outboard end while standing in front of the tail
section. I try to pull these to parts together. If I get any cable slack
while going through this exercise, my cables are too loose. When I "twang"
my cable I want it to sound like a guitar string.
If cables are loose, the Kolb will not fly correctly. That goes for tail
wires and elevator cables. Elevator cables can be checked by having someone
hold the elevators in place while you try to move the control stick forward
and aft. If there is fore and aft play the elevator cables are too loose.
During flight the tail wires are constantly loosening. Tail wires exert
inward force on the horizontal stablizers. The aluminum hinges are acting
as thrust washers wearing away the sides of the hinge tangs where they rub
against each other. To help reduce wear in this area I made some small
nylon thrust blocks which I placed between the inboard rear edge of each
horizontal stabalizer and the tailboom. These blocks help carry the inward
force of the tail wires. These blocks also prevent folding the elevators
up.
john h
mkIII - Drinking coffee in Rock Springs, Wyoming. A normal fuel stop when
flying from Oregon to Alabama.[/quote]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261706#261706
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
Subject: | Re: Tail Wire Tangs Breaking And other Tail Brace |
Date: Sun, 6 Sep 2009 05:43:51 -0500
From: Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com>
>
Jack, Thanks. One minor point. At least on my MkIII the tail wires are 3/32"
7 X 7 cable which has a breaking strength of 980 lb. My Firestar has the
same.
>
Rick,
You are quite right, I did not get the correct cable size.
One thing that the math does not provide is the load at which the tail will
stall. I believe it will stall long before six G's, and so the cable and
tangs will more than support the load. The greatest chance for failure
comes from the added / superimposed load due to over
tightening.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "George Myers" <gmyers(at)grandecom.net> |
YOU'RE the guy that ran off with all the sweethearts from the guys in my
platoon!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of pj.ladd
Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 5:41 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Aging Kolbers
Minor correction.... It would seem like with the name Jody, one would be a
girl, just doesn't happen to be true in my case. I was named after my
dad...>
Hi Jody,
your Dad was a GIRL..? I like your idea of a `minor correction`.. merely a
sex change
Sorry about that. The debil made me do it.
I don`t believe parents think enough about the names or initials they stick
kids with. I get the same problem with Pat being construed as a girls name.
But only once.
Full of admiration for your plans.Good luck from the UK
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
As long as we are doing surveys - which I think are great- , Does
anyone know how many Kolbs are flying ?
Frank Goodnight
Firestar2
Brownsville, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: | Re: Bing carb cleaning |
From: | "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com> |
russ(at)rkiphoto.com wrote:
> Dale
> Good advice about using wires -- and maybe I'm a Nervous Nellie,
> but I try to use a BRASS wire to avoid scratches. Usually more
> flexible too.
> Wonder if JP would approve?
> Russ K
>
Being the perfectionist I am, I would most definitely use a soft wire as Russ has
suggested. I usually use a piece of fishing line just to be extra sure of
not scratching anything. If the crud was so hard that fishing line was not enough,
I use soft copper wire, or maybe brass and be SUPER careful not to damage
or scratch the holes. Sanding down the end of the wire you stick into the
holes to take the sharp edge off also prevents scratches in the holes. Scratches
is what any crud would build up on and stick to very well in the future.
Mike
--------
"NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could
have !!!
Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=261739#261739
________________________________________________________________________________
From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
I met Thom Riddle at a flyin this morning. This pic shot right
after lift off. My strip is at the top edge of the ground fog.
-terminates at I90
I'm on the west edge of a long river valley so east of me was whited
out below. I had to skirt the fog which snaked
nearly all the way to my destination. Clear return but no tailwinds
either way.
BB
MkIII, suzuki G10
DSCN2045.JPG