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December 03, 2009 - December 21, 2009

> > For best effect the rudder pedals must be fastened together stiffly, not > just so they don't move much. > > -------- > Thom Riddle Thom R/Gang: If my rudder pedals don't move, that is stiff enough for me. I can assure you all, that a couple wraps of the pedals with a bungee cord, or a piece of rope, will get the job done. Not necessary to carrry steel straps in the aircraft. Bungee or rope is much easier to handle. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: There I was on downwind
Date: Dec 03, 2009
> I don't know what kind of exhaust/muffler system you had before the Titan > but the Titan exhaust (unless they've changed it in recent years) is > notoriously loud. > -------- > Thom Riddle Thom R/Gang: The Titan exhaust is quieter than what I have now. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: There I was on downwind
Date: Dec 03, 2009
> I'm not arguing against bungees if they hold the pedals firmly. Firmly holding the pedals is the goal, regardless of the method. Just describing what I use, as are you. > > Thom Riddle Thom R/Gang: As I was fixing my third cup of coffee I realized I haven't had to use a bungee on the rudder pedals since I went to double rudder pedal springs. That's what happens when one doesn't fly enough to be familiar with their airplane. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Re: Tire Balance
Date: Dec 03, 2009
If your tyer is out of balance the heavy side will stop rotating with the heavy side down, when landing on hard surfaces you will scrape a bit of rubber off the heavy side. When the tyre is scrubbed off enough it will stop rotating at any random spot, thus self balancing and then wear down evenly. This does not work for out of round tyres. Boyd Young Ps the tyres spelling was for pat's benefit. For the rest of us replace tyre with tire. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.. If you always fly from a hard runway and always land fast and heavy you may, eventually wear a flat spot . If you fly from grass........ Lifes too short to worry about such an unimportant aspect of flying. Just a thought Cheers Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Re: There I was on downwind
Date: Dec 03, 2009
Thom R/Gang: If my rudder pedals don't move, that is stiff enough for me. I can assure you all, that a couple wraps of the pedals with a bungee cord, or a piece of rope, will get the job done. Not necessary to carrry steel straps in the aircraft. Bungee or rope is much easier to handle. john h mkIII >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>. I borrowed an idea from our old friend Arizona Dave. When parked I have a short piece of parachute cord that has a loop at both ends. One end goes over one rudder peddle, loops around the other, then routed around the tube in front where the rudder springs attach, then back to the control stick. There are 2 more short pieces of parachute cord one goes to each side of the fuselage cage at the sides of the back rest, when they are all tightened up it keeps the rudder and the control stick all locked in place. Boyd Young ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Tire Balance
Date: Dec 03, 2009
the tyres spelling was for pat's benefit. >> Thank you Boyd. The thought is much appreciated. We use it to differentiate between being `tyred` or `tired` Cheers Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 2009
From: chris davis <capedavis(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: First Flight In A Long Time
John , Glad to hear you are back in the air ! Seems to me it was your longe st time on-the ground for a long time , maybe 20 years or so !Keep flying ! you are an inspiration! I want to be flying when I get as-"old as you -"if Ido.--- your friend Chris Davis=0AKXP 503 492 hrs=0AGlider Pil ot=0ADisabled from crash building Firefly =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A__________________ ______________=0AFrom: John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>=0ATo: kolb-list@ma tronics.com=0ASent: Thu, December 3, 2009 7:41:46 PM=0ASubject: Kolb-List: ck" =0A=0AHi Gang:=0A=0AInstalled a new Titan exhaust system, repaired the dings in my Warp Drive prop, pulled the carb float bo wls, drained a half pint of 100LL from my gascolator, turned the prop a bun cha times to push the oil out of the crank case, hit the starter without us e of the enricher, and the 912ULS that had not run since 19 July 2009, fire d on the first blade.- Amazing little engine.=0A=0AMy last flight was a 1 0.5 hour day from Homer Kolb's to Gantt IAP, AL. There was about 10 gal 100 LL in the 25 gal fuel tank.- The fuel remained fresh and left no deposits in the fuel system.- Had that been 93 octane mogas, it may have been a d ifference story.=0A=0AThe float bowls were dry.- There were two spots of corrosion where a couple drops of water worked on the pot metal of the floa t bowls.- Enough crud to cause a rough running engine, or maybe a severe power loss.- Other that the couple corrosion spots in each bowl, there in side of the float bowls were spotless.=0A=0AI drained a half-pint of fuel. - No water or contamination visible.=0A=0AThe battery remained fully char ged with the little solar panel battery maintainer that was hooked up to it .- The VDO electric clock was showed the correct time.=0A=0AI ran the eng ine for about 15 minutes, about 5 of that at 5,000 rpm, and a few minutes f ull throttle.- The 912ULS was seemed happy and so did I.=0A=0AThe Titan e xhaust system is a little quieter than the Rick Thomason STE system, but it does sound good.- I'll live with it.=0A=0AThis was my first flight since 19 July.- Despite the heavy cover of barn dust, bug crap, bird crap, and other stuff, she hopped right off the ground and flew like a brand new bir d.- I shot a half dozen landings to my 750 foot confined airstrip.- Fel t good.- I was comfortable with the mkIII, as usual.=0A=0AAfter more than 17 years and nearly 3,000 flight hours, I am still happy with and proud of my old bird.- Now she is ready to fly on a trip.- Maybe weekend after next to Nauga Field, LA, if the weather gods will smile on us.=0A=0ATake ca ======0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 2009
From: jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: bad practice
Here in Texas we often have head winds flying back home from our favorite lake resort restaurant after breakfast. When you watch your ground speed on the GPS and the ETA against your remaining fuel supply, it starts the pucker factor. After a few times of this we now carry 2-1/2 gal. Jerry jug with us to add before departing. :-) jerb ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 03, 2009
From: jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Gps
Hey Frank, What did you replace it with, just being nosey. jerb At 09:34 AM 12/2/2009, you wrote: > >Just bought a new gps . ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: FSII cage is back together
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Date: Dec 03, 2009
Jimmy Young wrote: > Old Poops, > > I think it's pretty impressive what you've accomplished there, considering the rolled up mess you started with. Most folks would not have found the persistence to do that. Please keep us posted on your continued progress! Well, ok, since all of the folks on this list have already built at least one Kolb, it didn't occur to me that anyone might want to watch one get rebuilt, but that sounds like fun. Today I spent $450 of Ed's money at Aircraft Spruce, [Twisted Evil] sorry no pictures. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276109#276109 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Tire Balance
Date: Dec 04, 2009
in the UK is there another word for "exhausted", just to avoid confusion? e.g, 'my rudder's black from being exhausted'>> Hi Russ, very good. I had a chuckle over that. I am afraid it is just the American habit of treating nouns as if they were verbs. eg `hospitalised`, burglarised etc although I could never see what was wrong with `robbed`. Are children `classroomised`? I know they are `mentored`. Never `taught`. Aint it fun? The one which always raises my hackles is using `like` instead of `as if`` although even that seems now to have been superseded by using `like` as some sort of all encompassing word which can mean anything, as in `I was like driving` or ` I was like listening to my iPod` "Words mean what I want them to mean" said the Red Queen (I think). Vive le difference. Which reminds me that the French have a TV film going at the moment extolling the benefits of living in France. It shows marvellous countryside and a happy healthy family enjoying life. Unfortunately the film was made in America using stock footage. Cheers Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Tire Balance
Date: Dec 04, 2009
Hi Folks: Seem to be getting a little distant from the intent of the Kolb Aircraft Builders and Flyers List. john h mkIII ----- Original Message ----- From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 9:06 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Tire Balance > > in the UK is there another word for "exhausted", just to avoid > confusion? > e.g, 'my rudder's black from being exhausted'>> > > Hi Russ, > > very good. I had a chuckle over that. > I am afraid it is just the American habit of treating nouns as if they > were verbs. eg `hospitalised`, burglarised etc although I could never see > what was wrong with `robbed`. > Are children `classroomised`? I know they are `mentored`. Never `taught`. > Aint it fun? > > The one which always raises my hackles is using `like` instead of `as if`` > although even that seems now to have been superseded by using `like` as > some sort of all encompassing word which can mean anything, as in `I was > like driving` or ` I was like listening to my iPod` "Words mean what I > want them to mean" said the Red Queen (I think). > > Vive le difference. Which reminds me that the French have a TV film going > at the moment extolling the benefits of living in France. It shows > marvellous countryside and a happy healthy family enjoying life. > Unfortunately the film was made in America using stock footage. > > Cheers > > Pat > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tire Balance
From: "Kirkds" <kirkds(at)dishmail.net>
Date: Dec 04, 2009
I've been thinking of using seafoam to balance mine. Anybody ever used seafoam? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276162#276162 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Fw: Charles Lindbergh's famous and risky takeoff
Date: Dec 04, 2009
Hi everyone, here is a film which has ben superbly put together It includes film which I have never seen before. Sorry that it is non Kolb but it is utterly fascinating to anyone who flies. Pat Take the time to read the prologue and watch all four of the tapes of the report/flight. It sure makes great watching and it only took 60 days to build the plane. After the first tape(#3) click Contact and get the rest. Pat ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - Facinating story and film............ Subject: Charles Lindbergh's famous and risky takeoff http://www.airportappraisals.com/ Win Perkins, a real estate appraiser who specializes in airport properties, has posted on his Web site a video he created of Charles Lindbergh's famous and risky takeoff in the Spirit of St. Louis. According to Perkins, this is unlike any other presentation of the takeoff footage. Perkins said he "painstakingly assembled news footage from five cameras that filmed Lindbergh's takeoff from Roosevelt Field, Long Island " and "mixed it with enhanced audio from the same newsreel sources." After you watch the "Takeoff Video (Part #3)", be sure to 'click' on "Contact" on the Left side on the web page to view all of the Videos "Parts #1 thru #4". My hunch is that after you watch the "Takeoff Video (Part #3)" ... you will want to see the others. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: First Flight In A Long Time
From: "Ralph B" <ul15(at)juno.com>
Date: Dec 04, 2009
"John Hauck" > repaired the dings in my Warp Drive John, how did you repair the dings? Baking soda and super glue, just super glue, or 5-minute epoxy? I have one ding that I would like to fix. I suppose you took some black paint and put it on a q-tip and painted over the area. That's what I would do. Ralph B -------- Ralph B Original Firestar 447 N91493 E-AB 970 hours 23 years flying it Kolbra 912UL N20386 1 year flying it 110 hrs Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276168#276168 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 2009
Subject: Re: First Flight In A Long Time
From: Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com>
Video on propeller field repair http://link.brightcove.com/services/player/bcpid1431564069?bclid=1432781645&bctid=1674033145> <http://eaa569.org/videos/propeller.html> On Fri, Dec 4, 2009 at 10:13 AM, Ralph B wrote: > > "John Hauck" > > > > repaired the dings in my Warp Drive > > > John, how did you repair the dings? Baking soda and super glue, just super > glue, or 5-minute epoxy? > > I have one ding that I would like to fix. I suppose you took some black > paint and put it on a q-tip and painted over the area. That's what I would > do. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: oil sucked out of my 912
From: "Ralph B" <ul15(at)juno.com>
Date: Dec 04, 2009
Guys, My 912 is low on oil occasionally and it's not because the engine is burning it. It's being sucked out of the vent tube. This tube runs down alongside the bottom of the engine and exits in front of the prop. I find evidence of oil on the prop if I fill the oil to the marks on the dipstick. Is there a better way of venting the oil canister? The tube is flat on the bottom and Mark German (builder) thinks the venturi effect is sucking out the oil. He told me to file the vent tube at about a 45 deg angle so it would have an opening towards the front. Then it will have a positive pressure instead of a negative one. What kind of oil canister venting do some of you guys have on your 912's? Ralph B -------- Ralph B Original Firestar 447 N91493 E-AB 970 hours 23 years flying it Kolbra 912UL N20386 1 year flying it 110 hrs Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276174#276174 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: IFR Conditions in Houston
From: "Jimmy Young" <jdy100(at)comcast.net>
Date: Dec 04, 2009
This does not occur too often here, maybe once every 5 or 10 years. Photo was taken at 10:30 am today in my backyard. John B, you you made the right call on postponing the Nauga Fly-In, because this stuff will be heading your way later today. -------- Jimmy Young Missouri City, TX Kolb FS II/HKS 700 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276176#276176 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscn0536_457.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 2009
Subject: Re: oil sucked out of my 912
From: Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com>
My tube runs all the way down to near the bottom of a leg. No issues with it. I'd have to double-check, but I think it curves just a tiny bit, away from the leg, toward the back... the tube is behind the leg, thus out of the airstream. On Fri, Dec 4, 2009 at 10:33 AM, Ralph B wrote: > > Guys, > > My 912 is low on oil occasionally and it's not because the engine is > burning it. It's being sucked out of the vent tube. This tube runs down > alongside the bottom of the engine and exits in front of the prop. I find > evidence of oil on the prop if I fill the oil to the marks on the dipstick. > > Is there a better way of venting the oil canister? > > The tube is flat on the bottom and Mark German (builder) thinks the venturi > effect is sucking out the oil. He told me to file the vent tube at about a > 45 deg angle so it would have an opening towards the front. Then it will > have a positive pressure instead of a negative one. > > What kind of oil canister venting do some of you guys have on your 912's? > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tire Balance
Date: Dec 04, 2009
From: "Kirby, Dennis Civ USAF AFMC AFNWC/EN" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
<< ... You accelerate for about 20 seconds up to 40/50 mph and then fly. You are beating your brains out for that? Cheers Pat >> Hi, Pat - Yes, but my severely out-of-balance tires are beating up my airplane, 20 seconds at a time. I fear that, eventually, something on my instrument panel is likely gonna give, it shakes so much on takeoff. That's the beauty of this List: one poses a question, ponders the many responses, and then pick a desired course of corrective action. Or not. Kinda like trolling (fishing) - you can keep the ones you want, and throw the ugly ones back in the lake! And (I've whined about this fact before), I say again - you guys that fly off grass runways have my absolute envy! Here in central New Mexico, if the runways are not paved, they are either dirt or gravel. In the 7 years I've been flying my Mark-3, I have yet to land on a grass runway. Waahh! Dennis Kirby Mark-III, 912ul Sandia Park, NM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Tire Balance
Date: Dec 04, 2009
After a couple of velvet soft grass touchdowns you'll never want to go back. Cow pies are optional. As someone mentioned, those bargain retreads are heavy and would only increase the chances of imbalance. My MkIII still has the original flimsy, lightweight tires and, amazingly, have no evidence of cracks or age. The advantage of a skimpy tire is that with only a layer of kleenex saturated with rubber, the imbalance will be slight. BB On 4, Dec 2009, at 11:30 AM, Kirby, Dennis Civ USAF AFMC AFNWC/EN wrote: > << =85 You accelerate for about 20 seconds up to 40/50 mph and then fly. You are beating your brains out for that? Cheers Pat >> > > Hi, Pat ' > > Yes, but my severely out-of-balance tires are beating up my airplane, 20 seconds at a time. I fear that, eventually, something on my instrument panel is likely gonna give, it shakes so much on takeoff. > > That=92s the beauty of this List: one poses a question, ponders the many responses, and then pick a desired course of corrective action. Or not. Kinda like trolling (fishing) ' you can keep the ones you want, and throw the ugly ones back in the lake! > > And (I=92ve whined about this fact before), I say again ' you guys that fly off grass runways have my absolute envy! Here in central New Mexico, if the runways are not paved, they are either dirt or gravel. In the 7 years I=92ve been flying my Mark-3, I have yet to land on a grass runway. Waahh! > > Dennis Kirby > Mark-III, 912ul > Sandia Park, NM > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: First Flight In A Long Time
From: "Ralph B" <ul15(at)juno.com>
Date: Dec 04, 2009
Thanks Robert. I've known of this baking soda and super glue repair for some time. I was just wondering how Hauck repaired his. Ralph B -------- Ralph B Original Firestar 447 N91493 E-AB 970 hours 23 years flying it Kolbra 912UL N20386 1 year flying it 110 hrs Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276191#276191 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 2009
Subject: Re: Tire Balance
From: Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com>
Yes, we must return to normalcy. :-) Pat, I fly off grass and the tire shake after lift off is annoying. Hitting the brakes stops it, but the lousy mechanical heel brakes usually mean some sort of excursion when I use them. I think a variation on the prop balancer in the last issue of Sport Pilot might be just the ticket. Rick Girard On Fri, Dec 4, 2009 at 9:22 AM, John Hauck wrote: > > Hi Folks: > > Seem to be getting a little distant from the intent of the Kolb Aircraft > Builders and Flyers List. > > john h > mkIII > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> > To: > Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 9:06 AM > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Tire Balance > > >> >> in the UK is there another word for "exhausted", just to avoid >> confusion? >> e.g, 'my rudder's black from being exhausted'>> >> >> Hi Russ, >> >> very good. I had a chuckle over that. >> I am afraid it is just the American habit of treating nouns as if they >> were verbs. eg `hospitalised`, burglarised etc although I could never see >> what was wrong with `robbed`. >> Are children `classroomised`? I know they are `mentored`. Never `taught`. >> Aint it fun? >> >> The one which always raises my hackles is using `like` instead of `as if`` >> although even that seems now to have been superseded by using `like` as some >> sort of all encompassing word which can mean anything, as in `I was like >> driving` or ` I was like listening to my iPod` "Words mean what I want them >> to mean" said the Red Queen (I think). >> >> Vive le difference. Which reminds me that the French have a TV film going >> at the moment extolling the benefits of living in France. It shows >> marvellous countryside and a happy healthy family enjoying life. >> Unfortunately the film was made in America using stock footage. >> >> Cheers >> >> Pat >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com>
Subject: Re: Tire Balance
Date: Dec 04, 2009
What's wrong with dirt?, as long as it doesn't have Sage brush in it. Larry C, 2800 foot dirt and rock runway, occasional sage Note: If you forward this email, please delete the forwarding history, which includes my email address. ----- Original Message ----- From: Kirby, Dennis Civ USAF AFMC AFNWC/EN To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 9:30 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Tire Balance And (I've whined about this fact before), I say again - you guys that fly off grass runways have my absolute envy! Here in central New Mexico, if the runways are not paved, they are either dirt or gravel. In the 7 years I've been flying my Mark-3, I have yet to land on a grass runway. Waahh! Dennis Kirby Mark-III, 912ul Sandia Park, NM ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 12/04/09 07:32:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 04, 2009
Subject: Re: Fw: Charles Lindbergh's famous and risky takeoff
From: Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com>
Thanks, Pat. That link will be in the Chapter 88 newsletter in January. Pau l Mantz did a pretty good job of duplicating that take off for the film, although it's clear from this film that Lindbergh didn't have a wire stike with the tail skid. Rick Girard On Fri, Dec 4, 2009 at 10:04 AM, pj.ladd wrote: > > Hi everyone, > here is a film which has ben superbly put together It includes film which I > have never seen before. Sorry that it is non Kolb but it is utterly > fascinating to anyone who flies. > > Pat > > > Take the time to read the prologue and watch all four of the tapes of th e > report/flight. It sure makes great watching and it only took 60 days to > build the plane. After the first tape(#3) click Contact and get the rest . > Pat > ------------------------------ > > Facinating story and film............ > > *Subject:** **Charles Lindbergh's famous and risky takeoff* > > http://www.airportappraisals.com/ > > Win Perkins, a real estate appraiser who specializes in airport propertie s, > has posted on his Web site a video<http://www.cfmediaview.com/click/click .aspx?db=8&obid=12128371&msgid=509&linkid=5&redir=http://www.airp ortappraisals.com/> > he created of Charles Lindbergh=92s famous and risky takeoff in the Spir it > of St. Louis. According to Perkins, this is unlike any other presentati on > of the takeoff footage. Perkins said he =93painstakingly assembled news > footage from five cameras that filmed Lindbergh=92s takeoff from Roosevel t > Field, Long Island =94 and =93mixed it with enhanced audio from the same > newsreel sources.=94 > > > After you watch the "Takeoff Video (Part #3)", be sure to 'click' on "* > Contact*" on the Left side on the web page to view all of the Videos > "Parts #1 thru #4". > > > My hunch is that after you watch the "Takeoff Video (Part #3)" ... you wi ll > want to see the others. > > > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: There I was on downwind
Date: Dec 04, 2009
From: zeprep251(at)aol.com
John, I also doubled up the springs,all four the same,still have a little wiggle .Thought about heavier springs but then got to thinking about the rudder horns structural limits and figured I better not.Going to revisit the iss ue when back home from Fla in the spring.Thought at first the Jabiru was the problem. G.Aman MK-3C 200 Jabiru Universal fit parts, don't. -----Original Message----- From: John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> Sent: Wed, Dec 2, 2009 1:18 pm Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: There I was on downwind > You just have to decide which is easier - crawling up into the nosebowl (John is obviously more streamlined than I am) and fighting with stronger springs (and not snagging/sticking them into your fingers) or sticking a bird perch into the top of the rudder. Ya pays yer money and takes yer cherce. > > Richard Pike Rev/Gang: I didn't have a problem installing double springs on the rudder pedals. To ok a few minutes to fabricate a few suitable tangs to hook and seperate. No hint of rudder flutter since I doubled up. Seriously, a very easy job . If I remember correctly, the rudder pedals on my mark three are pretty easy to reach without becoming a spelunker. I prefer my double springs, quick, simple, and work, over attaching a big weather vane on the rudder. A much cleaner installation from my point of view. Plus, I already had the springs on the shelf. ;-) john h mkIII - Repairing dings in my new Warp Drive blades after a couple unident ified flying objects made contact with all three blades. ======================== ============ ======================== ============ ======================== ============ ======================== ============ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: oil sucked out of my 912
Date: Dec 04, 2009
The tube is flat on the bottom and Mark German (builder) thinks the venturi effect is sucking out the oil. He told me to file the vent tube at about a 45 deg angle so it would have an opening towards the front. Then it will have a positive pressure instead of a negative one. What kind of oil canister venting do some of you guys have on your 912's? Ralph B >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I don't think that will make any difference.... the blow by gasses that force the oil from the crankcase to the oil tank are vented out the tube. There is always a positive pressure on it. If you ran the hose into a small plastic bottle, then created a vent tube that was about 1/3 down from the top. The plastic bottle would trap the oil. And would have to be emptied every now and then. With the new vent not being at the top would keep the oil contained if you went into a negative g condition. As for me I just wipe off the prop. Boyd Young MKIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: First Flight In A Long Time
Date: Dec 04, 2009
> John, how did you repair the dings? Baking soda and super glue, just super glue, or 5-minute epoxy? > > I have one ding that I would like to fix. I suppose you took some black > paint and put it on a q-tip and painted over the area. That's what I would > do. > > Ralph B Hi Ralph/Gang: Here's the method I use, and recommended by Warp Drive: a. Depending on how large and tattered the damage is, clean up any frayed material with razor blade or sharp knife. b. Clean with MEK. I have used 100LL on long cross country flights. c. JB Weld for the repair. In the field, used a plastic spoon. Let it cure in a warm room over night or more, until it is rock hard when pressed with your finger nail. d. The JB Weld can be formed with masking tape on the rounded leading edges. e. Remember the more JB Weld one uses the more JB Weld one has to file and sand off. f. I rough finish with a fine rasp, if I have a lot of excess to remove. g. Final sanding with different grades of wet/dry sand paper. I end up with 400 grit. h. I use Krylon Flat Black spray can paint. Any flat black spray can paint with work, but Krylon has a nice spray nozzle that does a better job of applying the paint. i. I didn't paint all the prop blades, but spot painted the repairs. Used fine Scotch Brite Pad, rubbing lengthwise to blend in the new repaired and painted areas with the old paint. Worked good. I have never used baking soda and super glue. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Tire Balance
Date: Dec 04, 2009
Aviation tires eliminate the out of balance, out of round tire problem. I like that course of action over rasping tires, and hanging exotic stuff on them. If one uses aviation tires, still has a an out of round, out of balance problem, then it is probably an out of round UL wheel, bearing, or cheap brake problem. KISS john h mkIII I think a variation on the prop balancer in the last issue of Sport Pilot might be just the ticket. Rick Girard ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Tire Balance
Date: Dec 04, 2009
I love Larry C's dirt/gravel strip, especially after flying a near 200 mile leg in hurricane winds, then finding the same winds at the Rock House on arrival. I didn't take the 2,800 foot strip, but the much shorter cross wind strip because the wind was howling right down the center line of it. With that much head wind, didn't need much more than a few feet to land. I think that clip is on Utube. I found it. Pay attention to sound of the wind in the mic, especially at the very end of the clip, and the amount of power I am using to get the airplane on the ground. Also notice how fast the dust from my wheels and prop wash moves out of the area. ;-) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMYsdarPcnY&feature=channel_page john h mkIII What's wrong with dirt?, as long as it doesn't have Sage brush in it. Larry C, 2800 foot dirt and rock runway, occasional sage ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Miss P'fer Video Clip
Date: Dec 04, 2009
Still one of my favorite clips shot by Roger Hankins. I think his wife dubbed the sound track. This was shot over the Alvord Desert/Dry Lake, 35 miles west of Larry C's Rock House: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jfWIjFYDYA&NR=1 john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: There I was on downwind
Date: Dec 04, 2009
Gary A/Gang: Could be loose tail wires, fabric tension, a quirk that can not be identified, etc. If you can stop the shuttle with your feet on the pedals, maybe you need heavier springs. My springs are pretty stiff. john h mkIII I also doubled up the springs,all four the same,still have a little wiggle.Thought about heavier springs but then got to thinking about the rudder horns structural limits and figured I better not.Going to revisit the issue when back home from Fla in the spring.Thought at first the Jabiru was the problem. G.Aman MK-3C 200 Jabiru ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Miss P'fer Video Clip
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Date: Dec 04, 2009
John Hauck wrote: > Still one of my favorite clips shot by Roger Hankins. I think his wife > dubbed the sound track. This was shot over the Alvord Desert/Dry Lake, 35 > miles west of Larry C's Rock House: > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jfWIjFYDYA&NR=1 > > john h > mkIII That is great! Dubbing that soundtrack is genius, I can hardly wait to do one like that of me on the lawnmower, my granddaughter on her Barbie Big Wheel... Wow... [Shocked] Thank you. I think I just got my Christmas present early, and if I can figure out the technology involved, there is no excuse not to have lots of fun with it. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276238#276238 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Saturday grass strip landing
From: "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 04, 2009
cristalclear13 wrote: > They mowed their grass, but the dog was loose trying to herd me after I landed. [Wink] > > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FmyQW6QWkAw Don't know if you noticed me revving the engine just as I was passing in front of the camera. Lately after landing I have to rev it a couple times to get to actually go back to idle (it wants to stay running). -------- Cristal Waters Kolb Mark II Twinstar Rotax 503 DCSI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276273#276273 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Saturday grass strip landing
From: "slowaero" <npd(at)maui.net>
Date: Dec 04, 2009
cristalclear13 wrote: > Don't know if you noticed me revving the engine just as I was passing in front of the camera. Lately after landing I have to rev it a couple times to get to actually go back to idle (it wants to stay running). Christal, You might want to double check that your carb slides are both closing properly. A friend had a cable failure resulting in a surprise landing. That is a TwinStar like yours hanging in the Kolb hanger. In the attached portion of the original sales sheet it's me driving with Marcus as co-pilot. I remember a meeting trying to decide what to name this second version of the TwinStar. I suggested Mark II (Mark) inspired by Homer's young son's name Marcus. Time sure flies when you're havein fun flyin. Cheers, Dave Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276279#276279 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/marcus_and_met_108.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ted Cowan" <tc1917(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: airplane sounds
Date: Dec 05, 2009
Here is a link to some great info and sounds of some of the greatest American warbirds of history. Have fun. Ted http://www.aviationshoppe.com/Sounds1.html ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 503 Problem
From: "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 05, 2009
rayw wrote: > Hello, > > I cannot seem to find a Rotax 503 repair manual for purchase. Does any one know of a source. It would be nice to know things like bolt torque specs and pattern, plug gap, acceptable cylinder compression etc. > > > Ray Ray, I know you found the answer to your engine problem. I don't know if you got the answer to your above question. It looks like CPS sells the repair manual you were looking for. http://www.rotaxparts.net/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=1213 This is the one I got when I took the 2-stroke class #1247 Rotax 532-582-618 Repair Book ($29.95) even though it doesn't exactly cover the 503, most of the information in the manual applies to the 503 as well. -------- Cristal Waters Kolb Mark II Twinstar Rotax 503 DCSI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276283#276283 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: oil sucked out of my 912
From: "ronlee" <rlee468(at)comcast.net>
Date: Dec 05, 2009
My 912 oil vent tube goes into a plastic bottle filled with a brass scrubber pad. the vent tube end is about an inch from the bottom of the bottle. A bit of oil will collect in the bottle which I then suck or dump out. Never any oil on the bottom of the plane. This is simple, cheap and works well -------- Ron Lee Tucson, Arizona Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276288#276288 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Tire Balance
Date: Dec 05, 2009
I fly off grass and the tire shake after lift off is annoying>> I am too busy wondering if the engine will stop, the rudder horns fall off, the propeller disintegrate, shall I clear the trees, or that cow, to work up a sweat over 10 seconds of tire (tyre) shake. Cheers Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Tire Balance
Date: Dec 05, 2009
severely out-of-balance tires are beating up my airplane, 20 seconds at a time.>> Hi Dennis, fly more, land and take off less. Cheers Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: timwarlick(at)mchsi.com
Subject: Have moved to Tucson, AZ
Date: Dec 05, 2009
All, I have not posted for awhile but do monitor the Kolb list as time permits. I have moved my Kolb Mark 3 Classic (BMW powered) from Mobile, AL to Tucson, AZ due to a job change. Had no problem after following suggestions from the list on how to pack into a 26 foot Penske truck. I did have problems transporting my BMW powered, 3 wheeled vehicle but that is another story. I have attached 2 pictures. I have the airplane wings reattached and am storing it in an RV storage building in Green Valley, AZ. In spite of all the open (desert) area where I am living in the Green Valley - Sahuarita area (15 miles south of Tucson), I am having problems finding a place to keep and fly my airplane without going to a large General Aviation airport about 45 mintues away (south west of Tucson). I found two perfect paved airstrips (Continental in Green Valley, and another one about 10 minutes south on I19) but both are closed with no possibility of using again. I also found a private strip with homes around it about 30 minutes west of me and am trying to see if one of the homeowners will let me share space in their hanger. Anyone have any experience with renting landing rights from a land owner and putting up a small hanger? Are there zoning issues that the county or state may have? Any suggestion would be helpful as I am anxious to get flying again. Tim Warlick BMW powered Kolb mark 3 Classic ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: aeronautical charts viewable online - UK
Date: Dec 05, 2009
Is there a website similar to http://skyvector.com/ for VFR charts in the UK. I've googled for an hour and have >> Hi Thom, not that I know of. The nearest I can find is one is a weather chart which marks VFR. Sorry. Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "kirkds" <kirkds(at)dishmail.net>
Subject: Re: Have moved to Tucson, AZ
Date: Dec 05, 2009
I have a private strip and the main issue with renting space is liability for the owner. ----- Original Message ----- From: timwarlick(at)mchsi.com To: Kolb-List Digest Server Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 9:50 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Have moved to Tucson, AZ All, I have not posted for awhile but do monitor the Kolb list as time permits. I have moved my Kolb Mark 3 Classic (BMW powered) from Mobile, AL to Tucson, AZ due to a job change. Had no problem after following suggestions from the list on how to pack into a 26 foot Penske truck. I did have problems transporting my BMW powered, 3 wheeled vehicle but that is another story. I have attached 2 pictures. I have the airplane wings reattached and am storing it in an RV storage building in Green Valley, AZ. In spite of all the open (desert) area where I am living in the Green Valley - Sahuarita area (15 miles south of Tucson), I am having problems finding a place to keep and fly my airplane without going to a large General Aviation airport about 45 mintues away (south west of Tucson). I found two perfect paved airstrips (Continental in Green Valley, and another one about 10 minutes south on I19) but both are closed with no possibility of using again. I also found a private strip with homes around it about 30 minutes west of me and am trying to see if one of the homeowners will let me share space in their hanger. Anyone have any experience with renting landing rights from a land owner and putting up a small hanger? Are there zoning issues that the county or state may have? Any suggestion would be helpful as I am anxious to get flying again. Tim Warlick BMW powered Kolb mark 3 Classic ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JRatcli256(at)aol.com
Date: Dec 05, 2009
Subject: Re: oil sucked outmy 912
Ralph B., Read about this vent line problem before. Think it was on Rotax site. Routed my oil vent line down thru the bottom of my fuselage. Put a plastic (T) fitting near the end of my vent line before it exited thru the fabric at the bottom with the side leg open to unpressurized air inside the fuselage. This will break any vacuum created by slip stream passing the end of the tube below the aircraft. John Ratcliffe ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Have moved to Tucson, AZ
Date: Dec 05, 2009
Any suggestion would be helpful as I am anxious to get flying again. Tim Warlick BMW powered Kolb mark 3 Classic Tim=2C Your situation is somewhat similar to what we faced=2C when I lived in no rth Idaho (Coeur D' Alene). One of our members=2C Larry Ballard=2C of the "North Idaho Ultralight Ass ociation" ended up buying a 20 acre parcel about 30 minutes out of town. A diferent member=2C Frank Reed=2C used his road grader (which I later purch ased) to cut in two crossing runways. To keep his U/L always ready to just jump in and go flying=2C he had a si mple pole barn type hangar built. My suggestion=2C depending on a whole lot of things in your area I'm not very familiar with=2C is to buy your own vacant land=2C cut and runway in a nd erect a hangar=2C and look for a few other guy in the area to share some costs with. With real estate prices as low as they've dropped in the last couple of y ears=2C this may be a fairly cost effective way to have your own runway. Mike Welch MkIII _________________________________________________________________ Get gifts for them and cashback for you. Try Bing now. http://www.bing.com/shopping/search?q=xbox+games&scope=cashback&form= MSHYCB&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_MSHYCB_Shopping_Giftsforthem_cashback_1x1 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: oil sucked out of my 912
Date: Dec 05, 2009
They make a after market breather kit for VWs (you would find it in a dune buggy catalog) for less than $30 that I have one installed on my engine. The breather box is a small foam filled vented aluminum box with ports for two valve covers and the main VW breather three total. The ports are installed low in the box so that any captured oil will drain back into the engine. The breather requires no maintenance and keeps oil off my tail feathers. The engine still leaks a very small amount of oil but it doesn't come from the breather like before. Great Planes aircraft and Valley Engineering (my redrive manufacturer) both have oil separators that I have tried but didn't work. Rick Neilsen Redrive VW powered MKIIIC ----- Original Message ----- From: "ronlee" <rlee468(at)comcast.net> Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 8:25 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: oil sucked out of my 912 > > My 912 oil vent tube goes into a plastic bottle filled with a brass > scrubber pad. the vent tube end is about an inch from the bottom of the > bottle. A bit of oil will collect in the bottle which I then suck or dump > out. Never any oil on the bottom of the plane. This is simple, cheap and > works well > > -------- > Ron Lee > Tucson, Arizona > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276288#276288 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: oil sucked out of my 912
Date: Dec 05, 2009
> They make a after market breather kit for VWs (you would find it in a dune > buggy catalog) for less than $30 that I have one installed on my engine. > Rick Neilsen Rick N/Gang: I was surprised to learn, after putting a few hours on my first 912 in 1994, that a lot of waste from the combustion process is dumped out the oil tank vent tube. This stuff is nearly clear and looks, feels, and smells like a solvent. Also, any condensation in the engine is dumped out the vent tube. I don't want to restrict this vent to keep my airplane tidy. Therefore, you'll usually find oil/solvent residue on my prop blades, radiator/oil cooler. One way to keep the airplane cleaner is not overfill the oil tank. Burp the crankcase by following the procedure described in the owners manual to insure the oil level is correct. If I overfill, which I routinely do, the first negative G situation I get into pushes oil to the top of the oil tank where crankcase pressure promptly pushes it into the vent tube. That really makes a mess. Normally, it is not a problem if I don't overfill. john h mkIII - Cold and grey at hauck's holler, alabama. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: aeronautical charts viewable online - UK
Date: Dec 05, 2009
appreciated in all of the EU as much as SkyVector is in the USA.>> Hi Thom, I looked up your site. Looks pretty useful. Can you download charts for actual use ? Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Charles Lindbergh's famous and risky takeoff
From: "Tom O'Hara" <tohara(at)alphagraphics.com>
Date: Dec 05, 2009
I believe that this is true.. Several years after the flight the Spirit was given to the Smithsonian. They hung it from the ceiling 10 or so feet above the floor. One day years later an elderly gentleman appeared in the Directors office and asked if he could "sit in my airplane for a while"? The museum closed the exhibition room, got a ladder and helped the gentleman up to the cockpit where he sat remembering his flight across the Atlantic. Cool! Government does something right once in a while--LOL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276342#276342 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2009
Subject: Re: Tire Balance
From: Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com>
Pat, Yes, I'm spoiled. 2500' is a lot of grass for a Kolb. 18KS on Airnav. Rick On Sat, Dec 5, 2009 at 8:42 AM, pj.ladd wrote: > I fly off grass and the tire shake after lift off is annoying>> > > I am too busy wondering if the engine will stop, the rudder horns fall off, > the propeller disintegrate, shall I clear the trees, or that cow, to work > up a sweat over 10 seconds of tire (tyre) shake. > > Cheers > > Pat > > * > > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 05, 2009
Subject: Re: Have moved to Tucson, AZ
From: Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com>
As far as hangars go, check local ordinances about taxes for fixed versus mobile structures. In my county, if it has a hitch, even if it's on a concrete pad, it's a mobile and taxed at a much lower rate. The Port-o-Port hangars are pricey but even the double wide with two hitches passes in most counties. If were to do it again, I'd use one of the Carports of America, or somesuch, buildings tailored to suit and weld a hitch to the frame. Rick On Sat, Dec 5, 2009 at 8:50 AM, wrote: > All, > > I have not posted for awhile but do monitor the Kolb list as time permits. > I have moved my Kolb Mark 3 Classic (BMW powered) from Mobile, AL to Tucson, > AZ due to a job change. Had no problem after following suggestions from the > list on how to pack into a 26 foot Penske truck. I did have problems > transporting my BMW powered, 3 wheeled vehicle but that is another story. I > have attached 2 pictures. > > I have the airplane wings reattached and am storing it in an RV storage > building in Green Valley, AZ. In spite of all the open (desert) area where I > am living in the Green Valley - Sahuarita area (15 miles south of Tucson), I > am having problems finding a place to keep and fly my airplane without going > to a large General Aviation airport about 45 mintues away (south west of > Tucson). I found two perfect paved airstrips (Continental in Green Valley, > and another one about 10 minutes south on I19) but both are closed with no > possibility of using again. > > I also found a private strip with homes around it about 30 minutes west of > me and am trying to see if one of the homeowners will let me share space in > their hanger. > > Anyone have any experience with renting landing rights from a land owner > and putting up a small hanger? Are there zoning issues that the county or > state may have? > > Any suggestion would be helpful as I am anxious to get flying again. > > Tim Warlick > BMW powered > Kolb mark 3 Classic > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Have moved to Tucson, AZ
Date: Dec 05, 2009
From: fs2kolb(at)aol.com
http://www.leroyaviation.com/ -----Original Message----- From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Sat, Dec 5, 2009 9:15 am Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Have moved to Tucson, AZ Any suggestion would be helpful as I am anxious to get flying again. Tim Warlick BMW powered Kolb mark 3 Classic Tim, Your situation is somewhat similar to what we faced, when I lived in nor th Idaho (Coeur D' Alene). One of our members, Larry Ballard, of the "North Idaho Ultralight Associ ation" ended up buying a 20 acre parcel about 30 minutes out of town. A diferent member, Frank Reed, used his road grader (which I later purchase d) to cut in two crossing runways. To keep his U/L always ready to just jump in and go flying, he had a sim ple pole barn type hangar built. My suggestion, depending on a whole lot of things in your area I'm not very familiar with, is to buy your own vacant land, cut and runway in and erect a hangar, and look for a few other guy in the area to share some co sts with. With real estate prices as low as they've dropped in the last couple of years, this may be a fairly cost effective way to have your own runway. Mike Welch MkIII Get gifts for them and cashback for you. Try Bing now. ======================== =========== - -= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month -- -= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) - -= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on -= the Contribution link below to find out more about -= this year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided -= by: -= * AeroElectric www.aeroelectric.com -= * The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com -= * HomebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com - -= List Contribution Web Site: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution - -= Thank you for your generous support! - -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. - -======================== ======================== =========== -= - The Kolb-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List - -======================== ======================== =========== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! - -= --> http://forums.matronics.com - -======================== ======================== =========== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Have moved to Tucson, AZ
Date: Dec 05, 2009
From: fs2kolb(at)aol.com
Just 80 freeway minutes East of Tucson International Airport and 12 miles South of downtown Willcox, Arizona. LeRoy Airport is located in the midd le of the Sulphur Springs valley -----Original Message----- From: fs2kolb(at)aol.com Sent: Sat, Dec 5, 2009 8:31 pm Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Have moved to Tucson, AZ http://www.leroyaviation.com/ -----Original Message----- From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Sat, Dec 5, 2009 9:15 am Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Have moved to Tucson, AZ Any suggestion would be helpful as I am anxious to get flying again. Tim Warlick BMW powered Kolb mark 3 Classic Tim, Your situation is somewhat similar to what we faced, when I lived in nor th Idaho (Coeur D' Alene). One of our members, Larry Ballard, of the "North Idaho Ultralight Associ ation" ended up buying a 20 acre parcel about 30 minutes out of town. A diferent member, Frank Reed, used his road grader (which I later purchase d) to cut in two crossing runways. To keep his U/L always ready to just jump in and go flying, he had a sim ple pole barn type hangar built. My suggestion, depending on a whole lot of things in your area I'm not very familiar with, is to buy your own vacant land, cut and runway in and erect a hangar, and look for a few other guy in the area to share some co sts with. With real estate prices as low as they've dropped in the last couple of years, this may be a fairly cost effective way to have your own runway. Mike Welch MkIII Get gifts for them and cashback for you. Try Bing now. ======================== =========== _blank>www.aeroelectric.com /" target=_blank>www.buildersbooks.com _blank>www.homebuilthelp.com blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution ======================== get=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List ======================== p://forums.matronics.com ======================== ======================== =========== - -= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month -- -= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) - -= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on -= the Contribution link below to find out more about -= this year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided -= by: -= * AeroElectric www.aeroelectric.com -= * The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com -= * HomebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com - -= List Contribution Web Site: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution - -= Thank you for your generous support! - -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. - -======================== ======================== =========== -= - The Kolb-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List - -======================== ======================== =========== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! - -= --> http://forums.matronics.com - -======================== ======================== =========== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: oil sucked out of my 912
Date: Dec 06, 2009
John Agreed it is best not to restrict the gases that get vented by any breather system but if you can separate the gas from the oil mist that does come out of my VW it is a good thing. The very low cost breather/oil separator that I use works very well and allows enough volume of air movement that oil doesn't find a way out in other areas that had plagued my older VW engines. Remember there are others putting VWs on Kolbs. On my direct drive VW I had a long tube that vented this oil mist out the bottom of the cage along with a lot of nasty looking stuff that would drip out back in the hanger. I found that adding the long tube the same size as the breather line tended to restrict the breathing enough that oil would find its way out of the engine in other areas. Later I removed the long breather tube and found my oil consumption reduced a bit but my tail feathers were still well oiled. I assumed that the high priced Rotax 912 series engines would have solved this issue and maybe they have by keeping the oil level lower. I was just surprised to hear others comment about this issue with their 912s. Rick Neilsen Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 11:50 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: oil sucked out of my 912 > > > > They make a after market breather kit for VWs (you would find it in a > dune >> buggy catalog) for less than $30 that I have one installed on my engine. >> Rick Neilsen > > > Rick N/Gang: > > I was surprised to learn, after putting a few hours on my first 912 in > 1994, that a lot of waste from the combustion process is dumped out the > oil tank vent tube. This stuff is nearly clear and looks, feels, and > smells like a solvent. Also, any condensation in the engine is dumped out > the vent tube. > > I don't want to restrict this vent to keep my airplane tidy. Therefore, > you'll usually find oil/solvent residue on my prop blades, radiator/oil > cooler. > > One way to keep the airplane cleaner is not overfill the oil tank. Burp > the crankcase by following the procedure described in the owners manual to > insure the oil level is correct. If I overfill, which I routinely do, the > first negative G situation I get into pushes oil to the top of the oil > tank where crankcase pressure promptly pushes it into the vent tube. > That really makes a mess. > > Normally, it is not a problem if I don't overfill. > > john h > mkIII - Cold and grey at hauck's holler, alabama. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: oil sucked out of my 912
Date: Dec 06, 2009
> I assumed that the high priced Rotax 912 series engines would have solved > this issue and maybe they have by keeping the oil level lower. I was just > surprised to hear others comment about this issue with their 912s. > > Rick Neilsen Rick N/Gang: Not really an issue for our "high priced" Rotax 912 engines. This solvent looking/smelling fluid needs to be flushed out of the system, and that is what is happening. It is not that much, a few drops now and then. The only time I get oil out of the "oil tank" vent line is when I accidentally overfill the oil tank during oil changes, and/or experience a severe down draft or a hard landing. We use a dry sump crankcase on our engines. Oil is returned to the oil tank from the crankcase by blowby pressure which is 3 to 5 psi. This also allows the engine to purge itself of contaminents during this process. I never realized how much blow by there was in an internal combustion engine until I went through the Rotax Factory 912 School. A few years ago, Rotax changed the oil tank dip stick operating range. The low and high level marks were raised to increase oil capacity. I think this may aggrevate the problem of negative G's and oil blown out the vent line. If folks are concerned about oil getting on their airplanes, I think the vent line catch bottle is a good idea. I don't use one because that is just one more thing to pay attention to. Rotax probably could spend a lot of money to develope a new oil tank with new innards to prevent this from happening, but I don't think it would be worth the money. I'm not whining about the problem because it only happens when I goof up and overfill or get in some pretty violent weather. An added tidbit: My old Dodge/Cummins engine is a 1992 model. I uses the old fashioned method of venting crankcase to the atmosphere. During operation on the highway it is venting gases and solvents to the atmosphere, just like the 912. After a long hard pull, the Cummins will drip oil and solvents from the crankcase vent tube. Guess Rotax could go to a closed crankcase system, but then the little engine would have to eat all that crud in order to get rid of it. john h mkIII john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 503 oil injection retrofit
From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs(at)elltel.net>
Date: Dec 06, 2009
I want to install an oil injection system on a 503 DCDI. It has an electric starter on mag end. There is a hole in the center of the cover plate above the starter that appears to be for the oil pump drive shaft. This engine I purchased new in 1994 and it has never had an oil injection installed on it. There are no holes for the injection in the intake manifolds. I am wondering how big a job it is and what parts I need and where to find them. I just figured out that my time would be better spent this winter upgrading my airplane than trying to fly in the cold weather. Blame it on the sixty's. I'm 60 now and can't stand the cold like I used to. -------- Tom Jones Classic IV 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp Ellensburg, WA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276501#276501 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <apilot(at)surewest.net>
Subject: Re: Mark III Classic at sea level
Date: Dec 06, 2009
Finally, have N4201G stored and flying at sea level near Sacramento. The Geo engine is unbelieveably powerful and my cruise seems to be close to 70mph at 5000rpms wide open throttle. It takes 14 degrees of pitch at the tip of my Ivo 3-blade. I would like to add more pitch, but do not want to get the tips into a stall mod and create drag. By the way, my 72" dia prop has been cut to 70" dia. Soon, I will try it all at 16 degrees of pitch and see if the cruise speed is faster and the wide open throttle is limited to about 4700rpm. Vic near Sacramento ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Mark III Classic at sea level
Date: Dec 06, 2009
> Finally=2C have N4201G stored and flying at sea level near Sacramento. Th e Geo engine is >unbelieveably powerful and my cruise seems to be close to 70mph at 5000rpms wide open >throttle. It takes 14 degrees of pitch at the tip of my Ivo 3-blade. I would like to add >more pitch=2C but do not want t o get the tips into a stall mod and create drag. By the way=2C >my 72" dia prop has been cut to 70" dia. Soon=2C I will try it all at 16 degrees of pi tch and >see if the cruise speed is faster and the wide open throttle is li mited to about 4700rpm. > Vic near Sacramento Hi Vic=2C When you describe the pitch on your IvoProp=2C you sound as if it is manu ally adjusted. Going from 14 degrees to 16 degrees=2C etc=2C etc=2C have y ou ever turned the blades all the way to "max" to find out what the maximum pitch is? The reason I ask is=2C as you know=2C I've installed my own turbocharger (on my GEO 3 cylinder 1.0L engine). From what I understand from some GEO g uys that know a heckava lot more than me=2C they believe the HP range may b e up around 95-100 now (with all the mods). What I'm getting at is=3B do you think I'll be able to crank the pitch on my 3 blade 70" Ivoprop w/ elec in-flight adjustment=2C enough?? In other words=2C will our prop handle a 100 HP engine? Wuddayathink?? Mike Welch MkIII CX GEO turbo _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Hotmail is faster and more secure than ever. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?o cid=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_1:092009 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: oil sucked out of my 912
From: "John Bickham" <gearbender(at)bellsouth.net>
Date: Dec 07, 2009
Just wanted to add this one for consideration.... John H pointed this out to me on our trip out west in May. Play with the location and direction of your vent hose. Originally, the last foot of mine was horizontal and terminated within about 6" of the prop. We went through some rough stuff on the trip to MV on then to SE Oregon. I had some pretty good oil/dust residue on my tail section. With John H's recommendation, I turned the last 6" down and further away from my prop. Since then things have been better. Haven't flown in that much bumpy air since then. But prop and far aft of engine staying a bit cleaner than is same conditions prior. Easy and cheap experiment if you wanted to check. -------- Thanks too much, John Bickham Mark III-C w/ 912UL St. Francisville, LA I know many pilots and a few true aviators. There is a distinct difference that I have the greatest respect for. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276554#276554 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: oil sucked out of my 912
From: "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 07, 2009
My Jabiru has a rather small home-made air/oil separator with a drain cock at the bottom with a hose that extends below the bottom of the fabric in the back. I empty that after every flight or two, usually just a few drops but what comes out of there I would not want to route back to my engine, thought some Jabiru operators do. That stuff is nasty. The air/oil separator also has a hose connected to the air outlet that goes overboard too to make sure there is no back pressure and the crankcase can still breath normally if the separator fills up. Once I started emptying the separator regularly and keep the oil level at the currently recommended relatively low level (Jabiru changed their recomendation too) I get zero oil streak on the Slingshot tail. -------- Thom Riddle Buffalo, NY Kolb Slingshot SS-021 Jabiru 2200A #1574 Tennessee Prop 64x31 Consistency requires you to be as ignorant today as you were a year ago. - Bernard Berenson Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276561#276561 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vic" <vicsv(at)myfairpoint.net>
Subject: Re: oil sucked out of my 912
Date: Dec 07, 2009
All or none, I simply put a loop up from the oil tank. Oil drains back water vapor and whatever else blows out directly at prop no mess. I've seen drawings of other craft that cut a slot in the overflow tubing inside the cowling and extend the tube outside. Any excess vacuum only pulls cowling air. Vic Xtra 912 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: oil sucked out of my 912
Date: Dec 07, 2009
> I simply put a loop up from the oil tank. Oil drains back water vapor and > whatever else > blows out directly at prop no mess. > > I've seen drawings of other craft that cut a slot in the overflow tubing > inside the cowling > and extend the tube outside. Any excess vacuum only pulls cowling air. > > Vic Vic/Gang: There is a steady stream of 3 to 5 psi air (blowby) exiting the vent tube. I would think, in a down draft, serious negative G situation, when the oil hits the lid of the oil tank, it will be going out the vent, loop or not. Personally, I want the waste material that is a byproduct of gasoline engine to be dumped overboard. This is the way I operate my 912ULS. May not be recommended or approved by Rotax. The 912ULS uses crankcase pressure to push oil out of the crankcase back to the oil tank. As long as the engine is running, there is 3 to 5 psi pressure in the vent line. john h mkIII - When it gets warm enough to fly, it will be raining. ;-( ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 07, 2009
From: jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: oil sucked out of my 912
Hi Ralph, Man you testing this old guys memory. Look at the crank case vent tube on some small certified aircraft like a 150 or 152 Cessna. Its a little fuzzy but on our 115 HP Lycoming powered 1973 Citabria I believe the end of crank case vent tube was cut at an slight angle. Can't recall if the angle faced forward or rearward. It also had a hole of about 3/16" drilled in either the front or rear side of the tube about an inch or so above the end. According to our A&I this hole was there for a purpose if the normal exit should become plugged. I would also think the hole may reduce any siphon effect. jerb At 08:33 AM 12/4/2009, you wrote: > >Guys, > >My 912 is low on oil occasionally and it's not because the engine is >burning it. It's being sucked out of the vent tube. This tube runs >down alongside the bottom of the engine and exits in front of the >prop. I find evidence of oil on the prop if I fill the oil to the >marks on the dipstick. > >Is there a better way of venting the oil canister? > >The tube is flat on the bottom and Mark German (builder) thinks the >venturi effect is sucking out the oil. He told me to file the vent >tube at about a 45 deg angle so it would have an opening towards the >front. Then it will have a positive pressure instead of a negative one. > >What kind of oil canister venting do some of you guys have on your 912's? > >Ralph B > >-------- >Ralph B >Original Firestar 447 >N91493 E-AB >970 hours >23 years flying it >Kolbra 912UL >N20386 >1 year flying it >110 hrs > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276174#276174 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 07, 2009
Subject: Re: oil sucked out of my 912
From: Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com>
(How can I NOT jump in... this is getting almost as good as SeaFoam! ;-) The angle cut and backup holes are nice touches... however..... if you get a kink in the tube somewhere between any backup holes and the vent at the top of the tank, then the 912ULS will have trouble circulating the oil through the engine. Ask me how I know! :-p -- Robert On Mon, Dec 7, 2009 at 9:42 AM, jerb wrote: > > Hi Ralph, > Man you testing this old guys memory. Look at the crank case vent tube on > some small certified aircraft like a 150 or 152 Cessna. Its a little fuzzy > but on our 115 HP Lycoming powered 1973 Citabria I believe the end of crank > case vent tube was cut at an slight angle. Can't recall if the angle faced > forward or rearward. It also had a hole of about 3/16" drilled in either > the front or rear side of the tube about an inch or so above the end. > According to our A&I this hole was there for a purpose if the normal exit > should become plugged. I would also think the hole may reduce any siphon > effect. > jerb > > > At 08:33 AM 12/4/2009, you wrote: > >> >> Guys, >> >> My 912 is low on oil occasionally and it's not because the engine is >> burning it. It's being sucked out of the vent tube. This tube runs down >> alongside the bottom of the engine and exits in front of the prop. I find >> evidence of oil on the prop if I fill the oil to the marks on the dipstick. >> >> Is there a better way of venting the oil canister? >> >> The tube is flat on the bottom and Mark German (builder) thinks the >> venturi effect is sucking out the oil. He told me to file the vent tube at >> about a 45 deg angle so it would have an opening towards the front. Then it >> will have a positive pressure instead of a negative one. >> >> What kind of oil canister venting do some of you guys have on your 912's? >> >> Ralph B >> >> -------- >> Ralph B >> Original Firestar 447 >> N91493 E-AB >> 970 hours >> 23 years flying it >> Kolbra 912UL >> N20386 >> 1 year flying it >> 110 hrs >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276174#276174 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: oil sucked out of my 912
Date: Dec 07, 2009
From: Ellery Batchelder Jr <elleryweld(at)aol.com>
Thom Riddle have you got a print of how that is made ? I know a friend that needs one Ellery in Maine Making skis for the Mk3C -----Original Message----- From: Thom Riddle <riddletr(at)gmail.com> Sent: Mon, Dec 7, 2009 9:46 am Subject: Kolb-List: Re: oil sucked out of my 912 My Jabiru has a rather small home-made air/oil separator with a drain cock at he bottom with a hose that extends below the bottom of the fabric in the back. empty that after every flight or two, usually just a few drops but what comes ut of there I would not want to route back to my engine, thought some Jabi ru perators do. That stuff is nasty. The air/oil separator also has a hose onnected to the air outlet that goes overboard too to make sure there is no ack pressure and the crankcase can still breath normally if the separator fills p. Once I started emptying the separator regularly and keep the oil level at the urrently recommended relatively low level (Jabiru changed their recomendat ion oo) I get zero oil streak on the Slingshot tail. -------- hom Riddle uffalo, NY olb Slingshot SS-021 abiru 2200A #1574 ennessee Prop 64x31 Consistency requires you to be as ignorant today as you were a year ago. - Bernard Berenson ead this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276561#276561 ======================== =========== - -= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month -- -= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) - -= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on -= the Contribution link below to find out more about -= this year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided -= by: -= * AeroElectric www.aeroelectric.com -= * The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com -= * HomebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com - -= List Contribution Web Site: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution - -= Thank you for your generous support! - -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. - -======================== ======================== =========== -= - The Kolb-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List - -======================== ======================== =========== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! - -= --> http://forums.matronics.com - -======================== ======================== =========== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: oil sucked out of my 912
From: "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 07, 2009
Ellery, I didn't build the airplane but it is a simple device. The breather hose goes into the top. A fitting in the bottom has a shut-off valve with a hose to the bottom of the airplane so you can drain it at your convenience. Near the top but coming out the side is another fitting with a hose attached going overboard also. This last one allows the breather to work and the container just catches the oil and condensation at the bottom. Actually both in inlet and outlet (not the drain) fittings can be in the top or near the top if that is easier to configure. The container can be made of anything that will stand high oil temperature. To work effectively the container should be more tall than squat but of any volume from a 4-6 oz or so as a minimum. The smaller it is the more often you'll have to drain it. Go to any of the aircraft suppliers and look at their air/oll separators. Mine has the bottom fitting with shut-off valve that most do not. The valve allowing me to decide when to dump it into a waste container instead of dripping all over the airplane. I hope this description helps. -------- Thom Riddle Buffalo, NY Kolb Slingshot SS-021 Jabiru 2200A #1574 Tennessee Prop 64x31 Consistency requires you to be as ignorant today as you were a year ago. - Bernard Berenson Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276655#276655 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: <apilot(at)surewest.net>
Subject: Mark III Classic at sea level
Date: Dec 08, 2009
Will our Ivo props handle 100 hp? I really do not know. Ivo may have the answer, but my opinion is that a prop needs more width to use more horsepower. My Ivo is sort of narrow and very smooth. Give Ivo a call and see what they say. Vic ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Kolb MKIII Video
Date: Dec 08, 2009
Hi Folks: Accidentally came across another one of my favorite video clips. I think Wil Uribe, El Paso, TX, shot this one at MV flyin a few years ago. http://forums.matronics.com/files/hauck_flyby_112.wmv Wil said he would have gotten me on long final, but was busy and did not see me until I was right on top of him. john h - Anybody know how to get out of the blue highlighted underlined mode after pasting the url above? mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb MKIII Video
Date: Dec 08, 2009
Note: If you forward this email, please delete the forwarding history, which includes my email address. ----- Original Message ----- From: John Hauck To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 4:04 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb MKIII Video Hi Folks: Accidentally came across another one of my favorite video clips. I think Wil Uribe, El Paso, TX, shot this one at MV flyin a few years ago. http://forums.matronics.com/files/hauck_flyby_112.wmv Wil said he would have gotten me on long final, but was busy and did not see me until I was right on top of him. john h - Anybody know how to get out of the blue highlighted underlined mode after pasting the url above? mkIII ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 12/08/09 19:54:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb MKIII Video
Date: Dec 08, 2009
You should only have to hit the space bar and it should go right back to the original cursor for typing. Larry C Note: If you forward this email, please delete the forwarding history, which includes my email address. ----- Original Message ----- From: John Hauck To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 4:04 PM Subject: Kolb-List: Kolb MKIII Video Hi Folks: Accidentally came across another one of my favorite video clips. I think Wil Uribe, El Paso, TX, shot this one at MV flyin a few years ago. http://forums.matronics.com/files/hauck_flyby_112.wmv Wil said he would have gotten me on long final, but was busy and did not see me until I was right on top of him. john h - Anybody know how to get out of the blue highlighted underlined mode after pasting the url above? mkIII ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 12/08/09 19:54:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: oil sucked out of my 912
Date: Dec 08, 2009
From: Ellery Batchelder Jr <elleryweld(at)AOL.COM>
Thom R Thanks I will weld up a couple of these in aluminum They will make a coup le of my aviation buddies a great Christmas gift Ellery -----Original Message----- From: Thom Riddle <riddletr(at)gmail.com> Sent: Mon, Dec 7, 2009 8:58 pm Subject: Kolb-List: Re: oil sucked out of my 912 Ellery, I didn't build the airplane but it is a simple device. The breather hose goes nto the top. A fitting in the bottom has a shut-off valve with a hose to the ottom of the airplane so you can drain it at your convenience. Near the to p but oming out the side is another fitting with a hose attached going overboard lso. This last one allows the breather to work and the container just catc hes he oil and condensation at the bottom. Actually both in inlet and outlet (not he drain) fittings can be in the top or near the top if that is easier to onfigure. The container can be made of anything that will stand high oil temperature . To ork effectively the container should be more tall than squat but of any vo lume rom a 4-6 oz or so as a minimum. The smaller it is the more often you'll have o drain it. Go to any of the aircraft suppliers and look at their air/oll eparators. Mine has the bottom fitting with shut-off valve that most do no t. he valve allowing me to decide when to dump it into a waste container inst ead f dripping all over the airplane. I hope this description helps. -------- hom Riddle uffalo, NY olb Slingshot SS-021 abiru 2200A #1574 ennessee Prop 64x31 Consistency requires you to be as ignorant today as you were a year ago. - Bernard Berenson ead this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276655#276655 ======================== =========== - -= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month -- -= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) - -= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on -= the Contribution link below to find out more about -= this year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided -= by: -= * AeroElectric www.aeroelectric.com -= * The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com -= * HomebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com - -= List Contribution Web Site: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution - -= Thank you for your generous support! - -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. - -======================== ======================== =========== -= - The Kolb-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List - -======================== ======================== =========== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! - -= --> http://forums.matronics.com - -======================== ======================== =========== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Building My Cowling
From: "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)hughes.net>
Date: Dec 08, 2009
I have been working on the cowling for a week or so now and this is what I have so far. It's been a really slow moving project but I think it will pay off in the long run. One benefit should be a much better, less disturbed, air flow to the prop. What you see is only the plug that the glass will be laid up on. Once the glass has cured it will be popped off the plug and cleaned inside. The glassed cowling will then be put back on the plug were I will make frame work, out of wood, onto the glassed cowling so it's shape will be held into position. Then the glass will be removed once again and turned upside down and become the mole for the real and final cowling lay-up. This is an extra step but should render a very smooth, strong, and lightweight cowling. I will also be left with a mold for future cowlings should I need to redo anything. There will be two nacca scoops built into the top area of the cowling for cooling of the cylinder fins only. The water cooled heads will be taken care of with another scoop on the bottom of the plane. More pictures will follow as work progresses. Rick Lewis (VW Water Cooled) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276774#276774 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/pic00004_168.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/pic00009_382.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/pic00012_169.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/11_149.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/17_196.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/20_376.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb MKIII Video
Date: Dec 09, 2009
Anybody know how to get out of the blue highlighted underlined mode after pasting the url above?>> John, I am no computer guru but mine turns blue automatically when you type in an address. You don`t have to set it up or turn it off either. Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Mark III Classic at sea level
From: "Jason Omelchuck" <jason@trek-tech.com>
Date: Dec 09, 2009
IVO has 3 models of Props. Ultralight, Medium and Magnum. 100 HP is right on the edge between a Ultralight and Medium. I would use a Medium. Regards Jason MKIII Yamaha powered Portland,OR apilot(at)surewest.net wrote: > Will our Ivo props handle 100 hp? I really do not know. Ivo may have the answer, but my opinion is that a prop needs more width to use more horsepower. My Ivo is sort of narrow and very smooth. Give Ivo a call and see what they say. Vic Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276832#276832 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Mark III Classic at sea level
Date: Dec 09, 2009
Hi Jason=2C I already have a prop. I got it long before I installed my turbocharger. Yeah=2C I check the IvoProp website=2C too. You're right=2C 100HP is at the upper edge of the U/L model. If I were going to buy one=2C maybe I'd a im for the medium model=2C but I've had this U/L model Ivoprop for years=2C and ain'ta 'bout to change it out now. If the prop can handle 100Hp=2C and my engine will be lucky to make that much power=2C it's good enough for me. Thanks for the input=2C tho... Mike Welch MkIII CX > Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Mark III Classic at sea level > From: jason@trek-tech.com > Date: Wed=2C 9 Dec 2009 08:29:35 -0800 > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > > > IVO has 3 models of Props. Ultralight=2C Medium and Magnum. 100 HP is rig ht on the edge between a Ultralight and Medium. I would use a Medium. > > Regards > Jason > MKIII Yamaha powered > Portland=2COR > > > > > apilot(at)surewest.net wrote: > > Will our Ivo props handle 100 hp? I really do not know. Ivo may have th e answer=2C but my opinion is that a prop needs more width to use more hors epower. My Ivo is sort of narrow and very smooth. Give Ivo a call and see w hat they say. Vic > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276832#276832 > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Hotmail gives you a free=2Cexclusive gift. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?o cid=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_7:092009 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 2009
From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb MKIII Video
A good way to isolate links that works on most email systems is to surround the link in angle brackets, like this: <http://www.kolbsport.com/> (keeping it Kolb related, too!) It also keeps the email system from breaking up long links that take more than one line. -Dana At 07:41 AM 12/9/2009, robert bean wrote: >I think what John is referring to is the way some email programs adopt a >different font that has been inserted. >-for example, Tiny URL inserts with bold face and anything typed >thereafter will assume the same. >An annoyance to have to resort to some drop down box to adjust. > >The best way to avoid is to write the whole message and then stick in the >link. You will be able to place it anywhere >with no changes taking place. > >IMO lazy software writers are at blame. -- I never entertain wicked thoughts...Wicked thoughts entertain me. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: FS II over Jaws, Maui Monday morning.
From: "slowaero" <npd(at)maui.net>
Date: Dec 09, 2009
The famous surf "Jaws" on Maui was going off Monday morning. This slide show was posted on a local weatherman's web sight. There is a shot of FS II N4309U. http://www.flickr.com/photos/schultzdave/sets/72157622956461982/show/ There was a bit of air traffic - 3 helicopters - but I stayed well above. Cheers, Dave Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276861#276861 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 2009
From: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net>
Subject: FireFly -> MZ 34 Update
House bound by weather today, so I have been working on web pages describing the mounting of the MZ 34. I opened up a MZ 34 section on the index page and have the first three pages up. It may be of interest on a slow day. The engine index page: http://jackbhart.com/firefly/fireflyindex.html The engine mount: http://jackbhart.com/firefly/firefly150.html The exhaust system: http://jackbhart.com/firefly/firefly151.html Mods to the reed valve and carburetor adapter: http://jackbhart.com/firefly/firefly152.html Jack B. Hart FF004 Winchester, IN ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 2009
Subject: Mark II Engine run up
From: Duane Ransdell <radiobluebook(at)gmail.com>
Hi Everyone, I recently purchased a Kolb MK II with a 503 single carb. It starts and runs great, but I want to check the jetting and temps before I commit to flying. It was previously located at a site 2000 feet lower than I am. My question is what is the best way to secure it to do a full run up? The brakes do not hold it and even if they did, I'm sure it would nose over before I got to full throttle. Thanks in advance for any help, Duane ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Mark II Engine run up
From: "slowaero" <npd(at)maui.net>
Date: Dec 09, 2009
You are right it would nose over. Also don't trust wheel chalks. These planes are too light and will jump over. The best place is through the tail post (steel weldment in front of the rudder that attaches the 5" tube). So your rope goes on ether side of the rudder. Removing the wings makes the job easier. Good luck, Dave Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276879#276879 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Mark II Engine run up
Date: Dec 09, 2009
the best way to secure it to do a full run up? Suggestion, tie a rope to the u.c high up near the cage. Both sides and lead the ropes over the tailplanes and back to whatever fixture you have. Gate post, car fender etc. A rope over the fuse tube at the tail fixed to a couple of tethering screws in the ground would not come amiss either. Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Mold release ????
From: "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)hughes.net>
Date: Dec 09, 2009
I need help from someone in the know about what I should use for mold release. I have attached a picture of the cowling I'm building and want to be sure the fiberglass layup will release from the plug in picture. I have tried, on a test piece, some mold release agent but it doesn't seem to work. I have laid up another practice piece, this time using some car wax on the part. Will see how it does tomarrow morning. The cowling plug shown is carved foam covered with bondo to give it a hard shell. The final covering is two coats of sandable primer. I sure want to make sure the fiberglass with pop loose from the mold after cure. Rick Lewis (VW Water cooled) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276908#276908 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/17_689.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Mark II Engine run up
Date: Dec 09, 2009
I've had good luck using a nylon tow strap I carry in my Nissan 4wd. Put a double wrap around the tailwheel strut and hook one end. The other end is hooked to the receiver hitch safety chain hook up on the back of the Nissa n. During full power run up the tail will come off the ground and maintain a n ice level attitude, about the same attitude as experienced in flight. john h mkIII Suggestion, tie a rope to the u.c high up near the cage. Both sides an d lead the ropes over the tailplanes and back to whatever fixture you have. Gate post, car fender etc. A rope over the fuse tube at the tail fixed to a couple of tethering screws in the ground would not come amiss either. Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 09, 2009
From: Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com>
Subject: Re: Mold release ????
They call it mold release wax as I recall..Boat builders,,,Aircraft spruce etc... It may be that the heat of curing will overcome some other types of waxes..? Have helped on many fiberglass layups...nuff to know not to wear good clothes or shoes...:-) Herb At 06:17 PM 12/9/2009, you wrote: > >I need help from someone in the know about what I should use for >mold release. I have attached a picture of the cowling I'm building >and want to be sure the fiberglass layup will release from the plug >in picture. I have tried, on a test piece, some mold release agent >but it doesn't seem to work. I have laid up another practice piece, >this time using some car wax on the part. Will see how it does >tomarrow morning. > > The cowling plug shown is carved foam covered with bondo to > give it a hard shell. The final covering is two coats of sandable > primer. I sure want to make sure the fiberglass with pop loose > from the mold after cure. > >Rick Lewis > >(VW Water cooled) > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276908#276908 > > >Attachments: > >http://forums.matronics.com//files/17_689.jpg > > >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >12/09/09 19:41:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Mold release ????
Date: Dec 09, 2009
Rick=2C Once you've got your plug finished=2C the first coating should be PVA mol d release. Next=2C you'll want to apply a few layers of carnuba wax=2C or even better=2C mold release wax purchased for exactly that purpose (which i s carnuba wax). Between the layers of wax=2C let them dry properly=2C then buff them out shiny=2C just like it was your car. After you've got about three layers of a good wax base=2C apply your gelcoat. I've got a link for you. Want to learn EVERYTHING you always wanted to k now about how to fiberglass properly??? Check out this guy. His name is G erald=2C and is an overall nice guy=2C and very helpful. His company makes dozens and dozens of the kind of products you'd need to be a fiberglassing expert. Here is an eBay ad of one of his products. This eBay ad will leads you t o DOZENS of "how to" videos from him. BTW=2C his gelcoat product is especially good. It can be applied with a high quality foam roller=2C for a top coat type of use. In my opinion=2C Gerald is the guy for all your fiberglassing application s. Here a link to just one of his products. It can lead you to the rest o f them...and the videos. http://cgi.ebay.com/EPOXY-RESIN-CRYSTAL-CLEAR-GREAT-4-CARBON-FIBER-24-OZ-HP _W0QQitemZ310163103887QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4837 29608f Mike Welch MkIII CX > Subject: Kolb-List: Mold release ???? > From: cktman(at)hughes.net > Date: Wed=2C 9 Dec 2009 16:17:09 -0800 > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > > > I need help from someone in the know about what I should use for mold rel ease. I have attached a picture of the cowling I'm building and want to be sure the fiberglass layup will release from the plug in picture. I have tri ed=2C on a test piece=2C some mold release agent but it doesn't seem to wor k. I have laid up another practice piece=2C this time using some car wax on the part. Will see how it does tomarrow morning. > > The cowling plug shown is carved foam covered with bondo to give it a har d shell. The final covering is two coats of sandable primer. I sure want to make sure the fiberglass with pop loose from the mold after cure. > > Rick Lewis > > (VW Water cooled) > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276908#276908 > > > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/17_689.jpg > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Windows 7: Unclutter your desktop. Learn more. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/videos-tours.aspx?h=7sec&slide id=1&media=aero-shake-7second&listid=1&stop=1&ocid=PID24727::T:WL MTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_7secdemo:122009 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Mark II Engine run up
From: "Ralph B" <ul15(at)juno.com>
Date: Dec 09, 2009
Loop an auto tow rope around the tailwheel rod and the other end underneath and around the front wheel of your car (where the weight is). Run up to full power sitting in the cockpit. The tail will lift and the nose will drop, but won't hit the ground. Ralph B -------- Ralph B Original Firestar 447 N91493 E-AB 970 hours 23 years flying it Kolbra 912UL N20386 1 year flying it 110 hrs Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276918#276918 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Mold release ????
From: "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)hughes.net>
Date: Dec 09, 2009
What I have tested with so far is PVA mold release. The directions say to spray it on in several layers but since my test part is small I just brushed it on, two layers. Maybe I should try it again by spraying on as directed is several layers. I would seem if you had enough layers of this mold release on that the fiberglass would easily come off. I will look at Aircraft Spruce and see what they have. Thanks Rick Lewis Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276919#276919 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: FireFly -> MZ 34 Update
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Date: Dec 09, 2009
Excellent work and good web pages as always. Hope it turns out to be just what you want. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldpoops0 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276931#276931 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Mold release ????
Date: Dec 09, 2009
Rick=2C The PVA's primary mission is to protect the mother mold from being affect ed by your layup. The wax is to allow for easy part removal. The PVA is very water soluble. Once you've removed the finished part=2C you wash the mother mold with water=2C in order to get back to the pristine surface. PVA is NOT meant to act as a part release. Wax is. Mike Welch _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Hotmail is faster and more secure than ever. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowslive/hotmail_bl1/hotmail_bl1.aspx?o cid=PID23879::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-ww:WM_IMHM_1:092009 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Mold release ????
From: "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)hughes.net>
Date: Dec 09, 2009
Thanks Mike, that makes sense. I have three gallons of PVA release agent. That should be enough to last me a lifetime. I just ordered the release wax from Aircraft Spruce. I will do another test on all this when I receive the wax. Rick Lewis Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276937#276937 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Mark II Engine run up
From: "slowaero" <npd(at)maui.net>
Date: Dec 09, 2009
The answer is C - All of the above. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276952#276952 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 10, 2009
Subject: Re: Mark II Engine run up
From: Duane Ransdell <radiobluebook(at)gmail.com>
Thanks everyone for your input. Most appreciated. I'll give them all a try the next opportunity that arises. Right now we have about a foot of snow or more on the ground and the high was in the single digits today. Not much chance of going anywhere but near the stove. Duane On Wed, Dec 9, 2009 at 10:37 PM, slowaero wrote: > > The answer is C - All of the above. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276952#276952 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 10, 2009
From: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net>
Subject: Re: FireFly -> MZ 34 Update
> >Excellent work and good web pages as always. Hope it turns out to be just what you want. > Richard, In my case it is important to look at the option. The numbers look good, but until it gets into the air I won't really know. Sometimes what is important is not the end result, but the path followed. If it fails miserably, I will remount the Victor 1+. Thank you for the kind words. I have updated the FireFly homepage to include some description of the MZ 34. It can be viewed at: http://jackbhart.com/firefly/firefly.html Jack B. Hart FF004 Winchester, IN ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Mold release ????
Date: Dec 10, 2009
From: "Kirby, Dennis Civ USAF AFMC AFNWC/EN" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
<< The cowling plug shown is carved foam >> Hey, Rick - What a beautiful shaped cowling (plug)! Once you've finished making the cowling, I bet that there are some on this Kolb List who are willing to purchase additional copies from you, if you are inclined to make more. As I have zero experience in working with composites/fiberglass, I, for one, would be happy to pay you a fair price for such a nice-looking after-market Kolb engine cowl! I think someone on this List made this same comment (offer) to Uncle Craig, when he created a custom cowling for his handsome Arizona-motif Mark-III Xtra, but I don't know if he's made any more than just the one cowling for his own Kolb. (Are you considering making more, Craig?) Keep up the good work, and please keep us informed of your progress. Dennis Kirby Mark-3, 912ul, Powerfin-72 Sandia Park, NM ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Need 503 intake manifolds with oil injection ports
From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs(at)elltel.net>
Date: Dec 10, 2009
I need a set of 503 intake manifolds with oil injection ports. I will buy or trade a non oil injection set plus $$. -------- Tom Jones Classic IV 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp Ellensburg, WA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=276999#276999 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Mark II Engine run up
From: "GeoB" <gab16(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Dec 10, 2009
> Loop an auto tow rope around the tailwheel rod and the other end underneath and around the front wheel of your car > Racing motorsickle guys have a deadman switch, a kill switch to stop the engine if they should depart from it. I was just looking at the Youtube video of the pusher-plane at an airshow that was running around with no pilot, mowing people down like crazy. Wonder if you tied a string to the sparkplug wire or sumthin, or just used a regler deadman switch. "Anything that can go wrong, will" -------- GeoB "Members of Congress should be compelled to wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers, so we could identify their corporate sponsors" Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277022#277022 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com>
Subject: Re: Mark II Engine run up
Date: Dec 10, 2009
Your best bet is to stay in the plane with your finger on the kill switch, and the stick pulled back enough to keep the plane steady. That way if something goes bad, you have a chance of some kind of control. Also if it was me I would tie to the back of a truck or car if that is all you have, so that if there is any "fod" in the area it will not scratch your windshield. I would also make sure that what I was tying it down with would hold up, and was tied securely. Larry C Note: If you forward this email, please delete the forwarding history, which includes my email address. ----- Original Message ----- From: GeoB To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Thursday, December 10, 2009 10:45 AM Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Mark II Engine run up > Loop an auto tow rope around the tailwheel rod and the other end underneath and around the front wheel of your car > Racing motorsickle guys have a deadman switch, a kill switch to stop the engine if they should depart from it. I was just looking at the Youtube video of the pusher-plane at an airshow that was running around with no pilot, mowing people down like crazy. Wonder if you tied a string to the sparkplug wire or sumthin, or just used a regler deadman switch. "Anything that can go wrong, will" -------- GeoB "Members of Congress should be compelled to wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers, so we could identify their corporate sponsors" Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277022#277022 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 12/10/09 07:36:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Mold release ????
From: "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)hughes.net>
Date: Dec 10, 2009
Thanks for the kind words Dennis on my cowling, it's really has been quite a project so far. It's very time consuming but fun. I will have a good usable mold left for future cowling's but unfortunately this is custom made for this engine only. It is doubtful it could even be adapted for other VW base engine installs. The reason is my cooling system is going to be different. The water cooled heads radiators will be located down below the rear of the fiberglass seat area. There will be a air intake scoop located there to bring in cooling air and exit out the back along side the boom tube. Easy cabin heat. That leaves the simple cooling of the cylinder fins that will be taken care of with two naca scoops on the top front area of the cowling. The size of the two naca scoops will start off with a guess therefore the temps will have to monitored closely. I will have thermocouples on each cylinder to watch things. A lot of the cylinder heat will be taken off with the water cooled heads and engine oil. I have been talking to Steve Bennett, of Great Planes, and he is mostly in agreement with me that this should work. I should have head temps around 180 to 200 degrees F and would like to keep the cylinders no higher than 250. This shouldn't be a problem since most of the heat is generated in the heads not the cylinder barrels. Rick Lewis :D Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277071#277071 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: FireFly -> MZ 34 Update
From: "slowaero" <npd(at)maui.net>
Date: Dec 10, 2009
Jack this is a very interesting and inspired project. Best of luck and thanks for posting. Hope your spring comes early. Cheers, Dave Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277094#277094 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: FireFly -> MZ 34 Update
From: "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 11, 2009
Jack, As you know, you will likely see a measurable speed increase even with less power by moving the engine below the wing. When I was giving instruction in a big wing Challenger I was continually amazed at how much faster it is than Kolbs with equivalent power. Getting the engine behind the fuselage should make a big difference in drag and therefore fuel economy. Keep us posted on this very interesting project. -------- Thom Riddle Buffalo, NY Kolb Slingshot SS-021 Jabiru 2200A #1574 Tennessee Prop 64x31 Consistency requires you to be as ignorant today as you were a year ago. - Bernard Berenson Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277153#277153 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fredrick Kerfoot <fredkt46(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Mold release ????
Date: Dec 11, 2009
> Subject: Kolb-List: Mold release ???? Rick. Check out Fiberglass Coatings Inc. www.fgci.com They have a how to sec tion on their web site. They supply a lot of the boat builders in the Tamp a Bay area. I have used their procedures and products on a Velocity project with good r esults. Just be sure your plug is shiny-smooth and sealed before you start on mold and you should do OK. _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free=2C trusted and rich email service. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Mark II Engine run up
From: "GeoB" <gab16(at)sbcglobal.net>
Date: Dec 11, 2009
lcottrell wrote: > Your best bet is to stay in the plane Duuh. Do you not believe in redundancy? And if you are by yourself, how do you accomplish your tasks that require you to be outside? I agree with your further points, it just sounds like you didn't unnerstan what I was trying to say. -------- GeoB "Members of Congress should be compelled to wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers, so we could identify their corporate sponsors" Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277192#277192 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: cowl
Date: Dec 11, 2009
From: "Nelson, Craig" <craig.nelson(at)heraeus.com>
<> De <> nn <> is <> <> I have enjoyed Ricks pictures of the cowl project, it certainly was fun for me. My hat is off to any one that dives into a project and sees it through. Rick it looks great, The undisturbed air really is a plus and the cowl becomes a lifting body. I had trouble here in Arizona on 110 degree weather without the cowl ....if the tower had me hold on the ground for long periods of time the engine would overheat. On one occasion whale idling on the ground I overheated and blew all the water out... now with the cowl I can idle all day long on any Arizona summer day..I had to make a cowl flap for cold days (like we are having today.. a balmy 50 degrees) to get operating temperatures...... I have molds and would make a cowl if anyone was interested.... it will not fit a VW engine it will only work on a rotax 912 Uncle craig ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: cowl
Date: Dec 11, 2009
On one occasion whale idling on the ground I overheated and blew all the water out... now with the cowl I can idle all day long on any Arizona summer day..I had to make a cowl flap for cold days (like we are having today.. a balmy 50 degrees) to get operating temperatures...... 912 Uncle craig Uncle Craig/Gang: Very unusual for a 912UL or ULS to overheat at idle, even on 110F days. Normally takes a long time to get the engine oil temp up to the required 120F prior to going full power for take off. Do you have accurate performance figures of your aircraft with and without the cowling? I'd be interested in seeing what the actual performance changes were. john h - Freezing in Alabama. mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Simmons" <stevesimmons(at)charter.net>
Subject: New Glass On Center Section
Date: Dec 11, 2009
I am replacing the Lexan in the center section on my Mark III Classic, the rivets I drilled out was Steel. The steel rivets was going into aluminum which is a bad ideal due to galvanic corrosion. I cannot determine from the plans what type rivets to use, the plans just gives the size 1/8 by 1/8 or 1/8 by =BC if you go through 2 thickness. Can anyone set me straight on this. I think they should be aluminum. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: New Glass On Center Section
Date: Dec 11, 2009
I know I'll get some flak from this but those wimpy fabric rivets will do just fine. And look good too. I think Fastenal has them. BB On 11, Dec 2009, at 4:49 PM, Steve Simmons wrote: > I am replacing the Lexan in the center section on my Mark III Classic, the rivets I drilled out was Steel. The steel rivets was going into aluminum which is a bad ideal due to galvanic corrosion. I cannot determine from the plans what type rivets to use, the plans just gives the size 1/8 by 1/8 or 1/8 by =BC if you go through 2 thickness. Can anyone set me straight on this. I think they should be aluminum. > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: New Glass On Center Section
Date: Dec 11, 2009
Steve S: The Kolb kits use SS rivets. You can get them from Travis at The New Kolb Aircraft Co. If you need his number, let me know. No problem with galvanic corrosion, but we do have a difficult time drillin g them out when it comes time to replace. Last time I rebuilt the center section of my MKIII, I substituted .025 alum inum sheet for the lexan. That is about the third time I have had to rebui lt the center section because the lexan fails after a period of time. If y ou have enough of the old lexan in tact, you can use it for a pattern to ma ke the sheet metal panels. I use hardware store aluminum rivets for the center section, and other part s that are time replacements, i.e., windshield, door glass, etc. john h mkIII I am replacing the Lexan in the center section on my Mark III Classic, th e rivets I drilled out was Steel. The steel rivets was going into aluminum which is a bad ideal due to galvanic corrosion. I cannot determine from the plans what type rivets to use, the plans just gives the size 1/8 by 1/8 o r 1/8 by =BC if you go through 2 thickness. Can anyone set me straight on t his. I think they should be aluminum. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Kmet" <jlsk1(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: New Glass On Center Section
Date: Dec 11, 2009
Steve, Bob Beans advice will work, but FYI, The earlier Kolb aircraft kits came out with all Steel rivets, they changed to all Stainless steel around 1995, so that`s what I used then. However, when rebuilding my center section, I used a FEW SS rivets in what I considered key stress areas, & aluminum everywhere else. My center section is an area where the center section lexan may be subject to alot of "cosmetic" stress.., so Lexan replaceability was a concern of mine. (SS rivets are difficult to drill out.) This may make things as clear as mud for you, but, this is just what I did. Jim Kmet Cookeville, TN MK-3C 912 ----- Original Message ----- From: Steve Simmons To: Kolb List Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 3:49 PM Subject: Kolb-List: New Glass On Center Section I am replacing the Lexan in the center section on my Mark III Classic, the rivets I drilled out was Steel. The steel rivets was going into aluminum which is a bad ideal due to galvanic corrosion. I cannot determine from the plans what type rivets to use, the plans just gives the size 1/8 by 1/8 or 1/8 by =BC if you go through 2 thickness. Can anyone set me straight on this. I think they should be aluminum. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: cowl
Date: Dec 11, 2009
From: "Nelson, Craig" <craig.nelson(at)heraeus.com>
John my radiator has always been mounted in front of ther engine not much air moving through it at idle...with the cowl air is moving at idle. I feel the airfoil on our kolbs realy is not about speed. that said the clean air going through the prop maks less drag. With the strut farings and the cowl my cruse was 90 at 5300. I am yet to see what the faring on the gear legs and wheel pants do. I have not had much time to get it together since the pannel rebuild. I started it Saturday.. I have an artificial horizion sensor problem..plan to get the bugs out it and start it again tomorrow...hopefully fly B4 Christmas -----Original Message----- Uncle craig From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hauck Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 1:45 PM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: cowl On one occasion whale idling on the ground I overheated and blew all the water out... now with the cowl I can idle all day long on any Arizona summer day..I had to make a cowl flap for cold days (like we are having today.. a balmy 50 degrees) to get operating temperatures...... 912 Uncle craig Uncle Craig/Gang: Very unusual for a 912UL or ULS to overheat at idle, even on 110F days. Normally takes a long time to get the engine oil temp up to the required 120F prior to going full power for take off. Do you have accurate performance figures of your aircraft with and without the cowling? I'd be interested in seeing what the actual performance changes were. john h - Freezing in Alabama. mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Simmons" <stevesimmons(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re:New Glass
Date: Dec 11, 2009
Thanks to all I do like the Ideal of using the sheet metal but I have already bought the Lexan next time I will use the metal ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: cowl
Date: Dec 11, 2009
> John my radiator has always been mounted in front of ther engine not > much air moving through it at idle...with the cowl air is moving at > idle. > Uncle craig Uncle Craig/Gang: Get that MKIII put back together and flying. MV will be here before you know it, 5 months on my Alabama calendar. John W had his radiator mounted in front of the engine. Usually, had a couple wraps of tape on each side of the radiator to keep the temps up, summer and winter. I asked him why he didn't go to a smaller radiator. Said he already had that one mounted. It was easier to tape than replace. ;-) My mkIII will do 90 mph at 5300, no engine cowl, no gear leg farings, and 800X6 tires with no wheel pants. What are you flying with an attitude indicator for? There is no weather in Arizona. ;-) Are you using a Titan exhaust system with you own silencer? I remember you having a problem during testing with the silencer. I replaced the Rick Thomason STE exhaust system with a new Titan system recently. I have flown my present 912ULS, since new, with the STE system. After 413.8 hours, the baffles have come loose in the left silencer. This was causing high engine oil temps and loss of power. With the new exhaust system, I feel like I have gotten another new engine. What a difference a good breathing exhaust system makes. I'll be ready to race at MV. ;-) john h mkIII - 2,980.5 hours 912ULS - 413.8 hours ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: cowl
Date: Dec 11, 2009
From: "Nelson, Craig" <craig.nelson(at)heraeus.com>
Uncle Craig/Gang: Get that MKIII put back together and flying. MV will be here before you know it, 5 months on my Alabama calendar. John Good to hear from you Its going together John... I've messed around 4 8 years and it is time to fly. I know I don't need an artificial horizon in Arizona or any where I would fly ..but it just looked aircrafty. Had to have it. My exhaust is the titan one you had before. mine has a different muffler. Ya I did have trouble with it... it was welded up by a motor cycle guy rather than the welder that did my tank, he was too busy to weld the muffler and I should have waited for him... the welds the motor cycle guy did not penetrate and he ground most of what was, off... the back of the muffler and exhaust tube went through the prop slamming it into the flap. ... I wonder if the new titan one would fit under my cowl...I admire Rick for his project those things get a guy going... I had fun doing all the stuff I did to my plane, the reason I did it was because I can..... Not really to improve the design....I did it because I like the way it looks. The kolb design to me is the spirit of true flight. Great visibility!!!closest thing to a helicopter without the maintenance or disk, slow enough to have fun, fast enough to go across the country and almost vertical takeoff and landing...but john I have to tell ya, you and lots of other guys are doing it...FLYING AND ENJOYING Your Kolbs .....it's time to stop the tinkering and fly!! I like your KISS rule I could have been flying...let's see what we can do at MV... I'll race you for breakfast....if I don't fly to MV this year I'm not going Uncle craig 15 hrs flying 2,000,000 hrs fussing, tinkering and building--enough is enough ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: cowl
Date: Dec 11, 2009
From: "Nelson, Craig" <craig.nelson(at)heraeus.com>
<> Uncle Craig/Gang: Get that MKIII put back together and flying. MV will be here before you know it, 5 months on my Alabama calendar. John Good to hear from you Its going together John... I've messed around 4 8 years and it is time to fly. I know I don't need an artificial horizon in Arizona or any where I would fly ..but it just looked aircrafty. Had to have it. My exhaust is the titan one you had before. mine has a different muffler. Ya I did have trouble with it... it was welded up by a motor cycle guy rather than the welder that did my tank, he was too busy to weld the muffler and I should have waited for him... the welds the motor cycle guy did not penetrate and he ground most of what was, off... the back of the muffler and exhaust tube went through the prop slamming it into the flap. ... I wonder if the new titan one would fit under my cowl...I admire Rick for his project those things get a guy going... I had fun doing all the stuff I did to my plane, the reason I did it was because I can..... Not really to improve the design....I did it because I like the way it looks. The kolb design to me is the spirit of true flight. Great visibility!!!closest thing to a helicopter without the maintenance or disk, slow enough to have fun, fast enough to go across the country and almost vertical takeoff and landing...but john I have to tell ya, you and lots of other guys are doing it...FLYING AND ENJOYING Your Kolbs .....it's time to stop the tinkering and fly!! I like your KISS rule I could have been flying...let's see what we can do at MV... I'll race you for breakfast....if I don't fly to MV this year I'm not going Uncle craig 15 hrs flying 2,000,000 hrs fussing, tinkering and building--enough is enough ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Beauford T" <beauford173(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Build a Kolb...?
Date: Dec 13, 2009
Ho, ho, ho..... SO YOU WANT TO BUILD A KOLB, EH....? There are a few items to ponder before you commit Kolbery.... ------------------------------------------------------- A really old Kolb pilot is one who can remember when flying was dangerous as hell and sex was safe. e.g., George T. Alexander is a really old Kolb pilot. Both optimists and pessimists have contributed to the society of Kolb drivers.... The optimist was Homer, who invented the Kolb airplane -- the pessimist was the guy who invented the parachute to bolt onto it. Real planes, like a Kolb, use only a single stick to fly. This is why bulldozers & helicopters -- in that order -- need two. There are Rules and there are Laws. The Rules are made by bureaucratic men who think that they know how to fly your Kolb better than you. Laws, (of Physics) are made by the Great One. You can, and sometimes should, suspend the Rules -- but you can never, ever, get away with suspending the Laws. About Rules: a. The rules are a really good place to hide if you don't have a better idea and the talent to execute it. b. If you deviate from a rule, it must be a flawless performance. (e.g., If you fly your Kolb under a bridge, don't hit the dang bridge). The ideal Kolb driver is the perfect blend of self discipline and aggressiveness... We are still looking for him or her.... Hello....? ... is this thing on....? Before each flight, make sure that your bladder is totally empty and your Kolb's fuel tanks are totally full. He who demands everything that his Kolb can give him is a pilot; he that demands one iota more than that is likely to be a fool. There are certain Rotax sounds that can only be heard at night, over water, or trees. The Kolb's limits are only there in case there is to be another flight by that particular aircraft. If, in the course of a flight, things reach the point where subsequent flights of that particular Kolb no longer appear likely, there are no limits and the Kolb should be operated accordingly. Flying little Kolb airplanes is a great hobby for men who want to feel like boys, but not for those who still are. Forget all that stuff about lift, gravity, thrust and drag. A Kolb flies because of money. If God had truly meant Kolbers to fly, He'd have given us more money....a lot more money. John Hauck is once said to have remarked with words to the effect of "in the Alaska bush, I'd rather have a two hour bladder and three hours of gas than vice versa...." It's not that all Kolb Drivers are good-looking. It's Just that the really good-looking people seem more likely to be flying Kolbs.... At the end of the day, you define a good flight by negatives --- You didn't catch fire, you didn't crash, you didn't throw up, you didn't get lost, the Rotax didn't quit and nothing of significance fell off the Kolb... Some Random Aviation Thoughts---------- Flying, in general, is a hard way to earn an easy living. The most plausible scientific theory is that the rings of Saturn are composed entirely of lost airline baggage Airlines have really become gender-neutral... now a flight attendant can get a pilot pregnant. To become a jet pilot, one must be an egomaniac with low self esteem. The medical profession is the natural enemy of the aviation profession. Ever notice that the only experts who decree that the age of the pilot is over are people who have never flown anything? Also, in spite of the intensity of their feelings that the pilot's day is over I know of no expert who has volunteered to be a passenger in a non-piloted aircraft. If helicopters are so dang safe, how come there are no vintage/classic helicopter fly-ins? "If the Wright brothers were alive today Wilbur would have to fire Orville to reduce costs." --President of DELTA Airlines. As a pilot, you should always remember that only two bad things can happen to you, but one of them eventually will: a. One day you will walk out to the airplane knowing that it is your last flight. b. One day you will walk out to the airplane not knowing that it is your last flight. I've flown in both pilot seats; can someone tell me why the other one is always occupied by an idiot? Son, you're going to have to make up your mind about growing up and becoming a pilot. You can't do both. There are only three things a copilot should ever say to a captain: 1. Nice landing, Sir. 2. I'll buy the first round. 3. I'll take the ugly one! There are only three things a wingman should ever say to his flight lead: 1. Two is up. 2. Lead, you are on fire. 3. I'll buy the first round. ...and last but not least.... The New FAA Motto: "We're not happy, till you're not happy." . Merry Christmas, Kolbers...! beauford FF-076 Brandon, FL __,_._,___ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Build a Kolb...?
Date: Dec 13, 2009
Beauford/Gang: Thanks for the Sunday morning chuckle! Merry Xmas and Happy New Year to you and all Kolbers. A moment of silence for our Kolb friends that have departed way to soon for that little grass strip in the sky. I miss them. john h - Wet, cold, and soggy at hauck's holler, alabama. mkIII Ho, ho, ho..... SO YOU WANT TO BUILD A KOLB, EH....? There are a few items to ponder before you commit Kolbery.... ------------------------------------------------------- Merry Christmas, Kolbers...! beauford ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Need 503 intake manifolds with oil injection ports
From: "dalewhelan" <dalewhelan(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Dec 13, 2009
my bings have primer fittings that would work fine as injection ports -------- Dale Whelan 503 powered Firestar II Projection, A simple and interesting Psychological concept Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277408#277408 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Build a Kolb...?
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Date: Dec 13, 2009
Just to add a bit more whimsy to Beauford's list... Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277435#277435 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/more_than_twin_beech_777.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/faa_149.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Need 503 intake manifolds with oil injection ports
From: "Tom Jones" <nahsikhs(at)elltel.net>
Date: Dec 13, 2009
dalewhelan wrote: > my bings have primer fittings that would work fine as injection ports I was wondering about using the primer ports in the carbs but I can find no documentation about it. I did find that CPS sells the primer hose barbs with instructions on drilling and taping the carbs but no information what so ever about the oil injection ports. Has anyone seen it done or used the primer ports for oil injection? -------- Tom Jones Classic IV 503 Rotax, 72 inch Two blade Warp Ellensburg, WA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277456#277456 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 15, 2009
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 12/14/09
From: Ted Woodill <tedwoodill(at)gmail.com>
I have been a lurker on this site for a couple of years, I have developed a cockpit adjustable trim tab system for FS & FSll kolb. It is bolt on, no welding and it work like a dream. Any one interested in the kit reply off site for prices. tedwoodill(at)gmail.com On Mon, Dec 14, 2009 at 11:57 PM, Kolb-List Digest Server wrote: > * > > ================================================= > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================= > > Today's complete Kolb-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version > of the Kolb-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 09-12-14&Archive=Kolb > > Text Version: > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 09-12-14&Archive=Kolb > > > =============================================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > =============================================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > Kolb-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Mon 12/14/09: 0 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: russ kinne <russkinne(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 12/14/09
Date: Dec 15, 2009
Ted Can we see a picture of this? ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 15, 2009
From: william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net>
Subject: Trailer
- I am building a transport trailer similar to Scott Olendorf's.- Could anyone give me their max dimensions for outside the tires on their aircraf t?- Any models will do, as I want to make it as- flexible as possible. - I have Jack Hart's measurements, as well as mine.- I realise they wil l vary according to landing gear length, brakes, tire size, and wheel pants .- - Also, a measurement from the main tires back to the end of the folded w ings.- No rush- this is a winter project, weather permitting.- I alread y have an older boat trailer, and have extended the tongue.- Now it's tim e for the deck, ramps, boom support, and tie downs. - Tentatively, I am going to set it up for a 60" wheel width, but if some one else in the area needed it it would be nice to be able to use it for ot her than a Firestar. - ------------------------- ------------------------- ----- Bill Sullivan ------------------------- ------------------------- ----- Windsor Locks, Ct. ------------------------- ------------------------- ----- FS 447 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: New 912 TBO
Date: Dec 15, 2009
Morning Gang: I sent this one a couple hours ago. Must have gotten lost in cyber space. Rotax has announced new TBO, by serial number, the the 912 series engines: Eric Tucker, the founder of Rotax Flying Club and developer of training programs for Rotax Aircraft Engines, said "The upgrading of components within the engine, and the significant improvements within the past few years, shows a commitment and faith in the light aircraft community. With LSA category aircraft becoming more accepted worldwide the increase in TBO helps owners and operators using Rotax Aircraft Engines get the best value in propulsion. 20 years ago this year Rotax put the 4 stroke 9 series on the market, with a 600 hour TBO, today the 2000 mark is a milestone that is welcome and deserved." http://www.rotax-owner.com/SI_TB_Info/ServiceB/SB-912-057-UL.pdf john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Rotax Increases 912 TBO
Date: Dec 15, 2009
Morning Gang: Aero News Network has the following info this morning. Eric Tucker, the founder of Rotax Flying Club and developer of training programs for Rotax Aircraft Engines, said "The upgrading of components within the engine, and the significant improvements within the past few years, shows a commitment and faith in the light aircraft community. With LSA category aircraft becoming more accepted worldwide the increase in TBO helps owners and operators using Rotax Aircraft Engines get the best value in propulsion. 20 years ago this year Rotax put the 4 stroke 9 series on the market, with a 600 hour TBO, today the 2000 mark is a milestone that is welcome and deserved." http://www.rotax-owner.com/SI_TB_Info/ServiceB/SB-912-057-UL.pdf john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 15, 2009
From: Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com>
Subject: Re: New 912 TBO
Strange that the 912 gearbox has a 2k hr tbo while similar gearboxes on 2 strokers have much less! Herb At 10:48 AM 12/15/2009, you wrote: > >Morning Gang: > >I sent this one a couple hours ago. Must have gotten lost in cyber space. > >Rotax has announced new TBO, by serial number, the the 912 series engines: > >Eric Tucker, the founder of Rotax Flying Club and developer of training >programs for Rotax Aircraft Engines, said "The upgrading of components >within the engine, and the significant improvements within the past few >years, shows a commitment and faith in the light aircraft community. With >LSA category aircraft becoming more accepted worldwide the increase in TBO >helps owners and operators using Rotax Aircraft Engines get the best value >in propulsion. 20 years ago this year Rotax put the 4 stroke 9 series on >the market, with a 600 hour TBO, today the 2000 mark is a milestone that is >welcome and deserved." > > >http://www.rotax-owner.com/SI_TB_Info/ServiceB/SB-912-057-UL.pdf > >john h > >mkIII > > >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >12/15/09 07:52:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: New 912 TBO
Date: Dec 15, 2009
> Strange that the 912 gearbox has a 2k hr tbo while similar gearboxes > on 2 strokers have much less! Herb Don't know why, for sure. -Pressure lube -Much heavier contruction. ??? john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: New 912 TBO
From: robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Date: Dec 15, 2009
It may be a matter of harmonics or some other difference in stress imposed by 2 stroke vs four cylinders. The 912 runs pretty smooth. BB On 15, Dec 2009, at 12:15 PM, Herb wrote: > > Strange that the 912 gearbox has a 2k hr tbo while similar gearboxes on 2 strokers have much less! Herb > > > At 10:48 AM 12/15/2009, you wrote: >> >> Morning Gang: >> >> I sent this one a couple hours ago. Must have gotten lost in cyber space. >> >> Rotax has announced new TBO, by serial number, the the 912 series engines: >> >> Eric Tucker, the founder of Rotax Flying Club and developer of training >> programs for Rotax Aircraft Engines, said "The upgrading of components >> within the engine, and the significant improvements within the past few >> years, shows a commitment and faith in the light aircraft community. With >> LSA category aircraft becoming more accepted worldwide the increase in TBO >> helps owners and operators using Rotax Aircraft Engines get the best value >> in propulsion. 20 years ago this year Rotax put the 4 stroke 9 series on >> the market, with a 600 hour TBO, today the 2000 mark is a milestone that is >> welcome and deserved." >> >> >> >> http://www.rotax-owner.com/SI_TB_Info/ServiceB/SB-912-057-UL.pdf >> >> john h >> >> mkIII >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> 12/15/09 07:52:00 > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Rotax 912 Question
From: "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)hughes.net>
Date: Dec 15, 2009
I need to know if the Rotax 912 has a thermostat in the water system. I'm thinking I will need one in my water cooled VW installation. I have found on line someone who sells an inline thermostat housing. It's a little pricey so I may build what I need myself. Rick Lewis ( Water Cooled VW ) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277662#277662 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Date: Dec 15, 2009
> I need to know if the Rotax 912 has a thermostat in the water system. I'm thinking I will need one in my water cooled VW installation. I have found on line someone who sells an inline thermostat housing. It's a little pricey so I may build what I need myself. > > > Rick Lewis Rick L/Gang: Very difficult to use a thermostat on the cooling system because the water pump has 4 outlets, one for each cylinder head. To design a thermostat system for the 912 would require 4 thermostats. That is too busy for me. I want to keep everything as simple as possible. We fabricated an inline thermostat housing, aluminum billet, for my 912 because it was very difficult to keep the CHT up to around 180F. The engine performs much better at 180F and higher, if you can get it there during cold weather. The thermostat was installed in the 1" return line to the single water pump inlet. It worked ok, with the exception of blowing coolant out of the coolant header tank. Was not the right system. We used a thermostat for a 350 Chevy. If we had had three more to install on all four coolant outlet hoses, it would have worked fine. To get around the low temp problem, in the winter months, with the 912UL engine, which normally runs much cooler than the 912ULS, I bypassed the engine oil cooler. That exercise required swapping two hoses. Kept the CHT and engine oil temps up where they belonged. The 912 has to reach at least 190F engine oil temp in order to boil off condensation in the oil system. Some folks have used an aftermarket engine oil thermostat, but that gets a little complicated and does not perform as expected. I let others test that system. I am not interested in experiementing with it. To get the temps up on my current 912ULS, I tape a couple wraps of gaffers tape on each end of the coolant radiator. This will bring the CHT and engine oil temps up to normal operating range. john h mkIII - Suffering from severe cabin fever. Sun is supposed to shine tomorrow and Gantt International Airport will be operational. I'm gonna fly a little. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
From: "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)hughes.net>
Date: Dec 15, 2009
Thanks John, this information helps. I feel I will have to install some kind of thermostat in my system. This can more easily be accomplished on this with only two thermostats installed. Thanks John Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277670#277670 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 15, 2009
From: "purplemoon99(at)bellsouth.net" <purplemoon99(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Rick,goto info(at)ramengines.com- Ron has some BMW thermo.that will work inl ine in the main hose--- Joe N101HD-- =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_____________ ___________________=0AFrom: Rick Lewis <cktman(at)hughes.net>=0ATo: kolb-list@ matronics.com=0ASent: Tue, December 15, 2009 6:41:23 PM=0ASubject: Kolb-Lis ktman(at)hughes.net>=0A=0AI need to know if the Rotax 912 has a thermostat in the water system.- I'm thinking I will need one in my water cooled VW ins tallation.- I have found on line someone who sells an inline thermostat h ousing.- It's a little pricey so I may build what I need myself.- =0A =0A=0ARick Lewis=0A=0A( Water Cooled VW )=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic onl ine here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277662#277662 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, L =========================0A ==================== ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
From: "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)hughes.net>
Date: Dec 15, 2009
The link you have posted do not take me anywhere except an e-mail page. I would like to check this site out if you can send me a good link to go to. Thanks Rick Lewis Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277673#277673 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 15, 2009
They have thermostats and they are set to 180F. It has one inlet and it goes where all the lines are a single line at the radiator. FD has been using them for 3 years. -------- Roger Lee Tucson, Az. Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated Rotax Repair Center 520-574-1080 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277676#277676 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: New 912 TBO
From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 15, 2009
It is harmonics/vibration and different internal parts in the 912 are stronger. -------- Roger Lee Tucson, Az. Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated Rotax Repair Center 520-574-1080 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277677#277677 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Date: Dec 15, 2009
> They have thermostats and they are set to 180F. It has one inlet and it goes where all the lines are a single line at the radiator. FD has been using them for 3 years. > > -------- > Roger Lee Roger L/Gang: I placed my thermostat, on my original 912, before they were tagged as UL and ULS, between radiator outlet and waterpump inlet. Had a serious problem blowing water out of the header tank cap because the water pump is overpressurizing the system when the thermostat is closed. How much? I don't know. I did not have a coolant pressure gauge installed, but would be interesting to know how much pressure it was creating above pressure caused by increased coolant temp. This may have also caused cavitation in the water pump. Never could figure out how to solve the problem without putting thermostats between waterpump outlets and header tank. How did FD (?) overcome this overpressurization problem? BTW: Who is FD? john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Trailer
From: "racerjerry" <gki(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Date: Dec 15, 2009
65 inches between outside of tires on my Firestar II Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277688#277688 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tire Balance
From: "racerjerry" <gki(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Date: Dec 15, 2009
Try to just achieve STATIC wheel balance. You can apply weight at the light point anywhere on the wheel, whether it is on the inside surface (but need brake clearance), outside surface or fabricate steel plate and attach to a wheel thru-bolt (or two). By static balancing only, you can easily do it yourself and can probably get close enough by just hanging the wheel loosely on the axle and letting it rotate to the heavy point - no wheel balancer required. Another possibility, if the tire is way out of balance is to mark the light spot as above and have a tire shop vulcanize one or two hot patches inside the tire to lessen the amount of wheel weights required. Static balancing is the accepted method used on most certified light aircraft. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277692#277692 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2009
From: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net>
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
> >Roger L/Gang: > >I placed my thermostat, on my original 912, before they were tagged as UL >and ULS, between radiator outlet and waterpump inlet. Had a serious >problem blowing water out of the header tank cap because the water pump is >overpressurizing the system when the thermostat is closed. How much? I >don't know. John, One way around this problem is to drill or to enlarge the hole in the valve plate. This lets enough water pass through the valve to prevent percolation with in the system while the engine is warming up and the valve opens enough to prevent the problem. Jack B. Hart FF004 Winchester, IN ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
From: "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)hughes.net>
Date: Dec 16, 2009
Joe Please send me a good link so I can check out the thermostats your talking about. The link you sent me on this list only to take me to an e-mail page. Thanks Rick Lewis Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277712#277712 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Date: Dec 16, 2009
> Please send me a good link so I can check out the thermostats your talking about. The link you sent me on this list only to take me to an e-mail page. > > Thanks Rick Lewis Rick L/Gang: Try this url: http://ramengines.com/ Go to the bottom of the menu on the left of the page. Click on "for sale items". The BMW thermostat is on the upper left of that page. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Date: Dec 16, 2009
> One way around this problem is to drill or to enlarge the hole in the valve > plate. This lets enough water pass through the valve to prevent > percolation > with in the system while the engine is warming up and the valve opens > enough > to prevent the problem. > > Jack B. Hart FF004 Jack H/Gang: We experimented with enlarging the weep/bleed hole in the thermostat baffle. Results were poor. Still got overpressure from the thermostat being in the least effective location, on the wrong side of the water pump. If you go too large on the weep hole, you loose most of the thermostat's effectiveness. Only way to get it to work on the 912 was install a thermostat on each of the outlet hoses between the water pump and the header tank. A roll of gaffer's tape solved the problem, although not as professional as a thermostat, it took care of bringing up the CHT and engine oil temps. Hope it warms up enough to fly this afternoon. First day without rain in a week. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 16, 2009
Here is a link to see one on a 912. You mount it on the left side before the radiator. No pressure problems. You can also use a Perma Cool oil thermostat for the oil. http://www.flightdesignusa.com/dbimages/big_thermo.jpg Here are two pictures out of a manual. -------- Roger Lee Tucson, Az. Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated Rotax Repair Center 520-574-1080 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277724#277724 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/oil_thermostat_199.pdf http://forums.matronics.com//files/coolant_thermostat_178.pdf ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Tire Balance
From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 16, 2009
If you get the newer LSA tires they now come with a mark on them to line up the tube stem. If they aren't lined up it will shake the whole airframe terribly. Many wheels have marks that also need to be in align with the stem and tire mark. Matco wheels have marks for alignment and Matco wheel halves can not be interchanged because it is a balanced set. If you need a static balance a motorcycle wheel balancer (inexpensive) from Marc Parnes works very well. This balancer also works for the static balance on props. www.marcparnes.com -------- Roger Lee Tucson, Az. Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated Rotax Repair Center 520-574-1080 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277727#277727 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Rotax 912 Question
Date: Dec 16, 2009
I need to know if the Rotax 912 has a thermostat in the water system. I'm thinking I will need one in my water cooled VW installation. I have found on line someone who sells an inline thermostat housing. It's a little pricey so I may build what I need myself. Rick Lewis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> When checking with the experts at LEAF I was told that the 912 has no minimum water temp. thus no thermostat. I added a heater in my kolb for comfort in the winter, and to keep the coolent temps up in the winter I use some aluminum backed tape and reduce the cooling area. I considered an inline thermostat between my takeoff for my heater and the inlet to the main radiator, but remembered the kiss principle. That would be just one more thing to go wrong. With the thermostat closed I would still maintain flow through the heater core which is not valved. The only min temp in the 912 is the oil temps. Boyd Young MkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: plastic license
Date: Dec 16, 2009
The deadline for replacement is 31mar you can print a copy of the PDF and mail it with $2.00 http://www.faa.gov/licenses_certificates/airmen_certification/certificate_replacement/ BB ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Date: Dec 16, 2009
> Here is a link to see one on a 912. You mount it on the left side before > the radiator. No pressure problems. You can also use a Perma Cool oil > thermostat for the oil. > > http://www.flightdesignusa.com/dbimages/big_thermo.jpg > > > Here are two pictures out of a manual. > > -------- > Roger Lee Roger L/Gang: Looks like this thermostat will require a new coolant radiator tank to accept the bypass circuit? How much does Rotax want for the header tank with additional outlet? Price of the BMW thermostat is reasonable, 18.95. Had a couple Fiat Spyders that used the same thermostat bypass system. The PDF files out of the manual for coolant and oil thermostats did not come through. Pages won't open. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vic" <vicsv(at)myfairpoint.net>
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Date: Dec 16, 2009
Boyd, Can you tell us more about your heater? -3 wind chill in Maine. Vic 912ul ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Date: Dec 16, 2009
Boyd/Gang: The 912 runs a lot better if the temps are kept up, at least 180F CHT. Back in 1994, on the way to Alaska, I started having engine problems. Plugs were telling me I was over-rich. CHT would barely get the needle off 120F. In actuality, the 912 was running very lean in midrange, plus the cold CHT was not vaporizing the fuel well enough to get a good burn. Gave me lots of problems until I learned how to fix it, increase CHT and drop the fuel needles a notch. I also bypassed the oil cooler by changing two oil line connections. Did that on the gravel parking pad at Teslin Lake Airport, Yukon Territory. Left it bypassed until I eventually got back into warmer weather in the lower 48 some time later. john h mkIII The only min temp in the 912 is the oil temps. Boyd Young ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Frapper ( gone )
From: "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 16, 2009
Planecrazzy, You should not be managing any type of list or map. You are intent on stirring up shit, mentioning my name several times long after a long period of no problems. It is very clear that you get off on stirring up problems where there are none, and then having all your friends jumping in support you. You two are just desperate for attention and will obviously do anything to be accepted as part of the little " Clique " here. Given your reference to me in your signature, and you continual posting of garbage like this, it is very obvious who the troublemakers here are. planecrazzzy wrote: > > > It's "NORMAL" at the matronics site... > > What happened to the idiot "JP".... ??? > > Not that I want to talk with him. > > I wonder if Matt finally "banned" him.... > > Probably not... He'd just come back... > > can't disguise that attitude... > > Maybe he FINALLY took the hint that he just wasn't wanted.... > . > . > Just found it curious... > Gotta Fly... " > > > -------- "NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have !!! Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277761#277761 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Frapper ( gone )
From: "JetPilot" <orcabonita(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Dec 16, 2009
And to answer your question Mike, the reason I don't frequent here as much as I used to is because most of the very talented and good people have left this list and gone elsewhere. Anyone with any intellect and honesty sees how a couple people here post offensive things and try to stir up shit, and how the rest of the little gain then jump in and blame me for all the problems here. People do see hypocrisy and double standards practiced and supported on the Kolb list, and leave. Mike -------- "NO FEAR" - If you have no fear you did not go as fast as you could have !!! Kolb MK-III Xtra, 912-S Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277762#277762 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Rotax 912 Question
Date: Dec 16, 2009
John, you are exactly right. Rotax does not publish a minimum cylinder head temps,, but it does work much better when it gets properly warmed up. My heater works better when it gets warmed up as well. Instead of bypassing the oil cooler, I just run tape over it, between 20 and 40 deg outside temps, I put tape over the front,,, and below 20 I have to tape front and back. The main radiator gets tape over =BD to 2/3 depending on the outside temps. Boyd Young MKIII >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Boyd/Gang: The 912 runs a lot better if the temps are kept up, at least 180F CHT. Back in 1994, on the way to Alaska, I started having engine problems. Plugs were telling me I was over-rich. CHT would barely get the needle off 120F. In actuality, the 912 was running very lean in midrange, plus the cold CHT was not vaporizing the fuel well enough to get a good burn. Gave me lots of problems until I learned how to fix it, increase CHT and drop the fuel needles a notch. I also bypassed the oil cooler by changing two oil line connections. Did that on the gravel parking pad at Teslin Lake Airport, Yukon Territory. Left it bypassed until I eventually got back into warmer weather in the lower 48 some time later. john h mkIII The only min temp in the 912 is the oil temps. Boyd Young ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: New 912 TBO
Date: Dec 16, 2009
From: "Kirby, Dennis Civ USAF AFMC AFNWC/EN" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
Hauck wrote: << Rotax has announced new TBO, by serial number, for 912 series engines: >> John / All - In reading the referenced Rotax Service Bulletin, I notice that the 912UL is clearly absent from the TBO extension discussion. They mention the 912A and 912F (certificated engines) and the 912S are given TBO extensions, assuming that all the specified Service Bulletins have been accomplished. You think this means that the 912UL is still stuck at 1200 hours TBO? Dennis Kirby Mark-3, 912ul, in Sandia Park, NM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: plastic license
Date: Dec 16, 2009
The deadline for replacement is 31mar you can print a copy of the PDF and mail it with $2.00 http://www.faa.gov/licenses_certificates/airmen_certification/certificate_re placement/ BB >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The $2.00 is not necessary if your pilot certificate has your social security number on it. Boyd Young Mkiii ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Rotax 912 Question
Date: Dec 16, 2009
Boyd, Can you tell us more about your heater? -3 wind chill in Maine. Vic 912ul >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I don't think I have any photos. but I will try and get some next time I go out. In my radiator hoses just before the main radiator I cut in 2 tees 1" X 5/8". Connected to the tees I routed some heater hose into the back area behind the fuel tank connected to a small heater core. I built a copper wire frame around the heater core, on one side I built it to fit a computer cooling fan, on the other side I built an adapter to fit a 2" duct. I covered the frame work with poly fiber. The duct runs to the front of the nose cone. My attempt was to warm my feet and have the air pull all the way back through the cabin back to the heater. There is not enough heat to drive you out but it will take the edge off. On my first trip I took off with the outside temps around 20 deg F and the temps were around 10 when I landed. I thought it was not working till I opened the doors and the outside air rushed in. it would probably work better if all the exterior surfaces had some type of insulation. I run the fan summer and winter. In the summer it helps with the cooling of the engine, and I open up the area behind the doors to help with ventilation, and in winter I have to tape up the main radiator to keep the heat up. The tees and heater core I picked up at Napa auto parts. I had to go through their heater core catalog to find one that looked like it would work. ( both inlet and outlet had to point the same direction, it had to fit in the available space, and be light weight) I soldered the copper frame work to the header tanks. but you could get an aluminum core and build some aluminum housing, you would have to come up with some type of resilient mounting system to keep from rubbing a hole through. I cant remember if the tees were in stock or they had to be ordered. The heater core only took a few days to order. A higher capacity fan would also help in the winter. Boyd Young MKIII Utah ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
From: robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Date: Dec 16, 2009
I have an inline thermostat on my suzuki. It has to be pushed into a chunk of (large) radiator hose. Carquest CTH31179 This was the recommended way to go from the conversion redrive supplier. I had a problem initially as the volume capacity was too small. Carquest evidently had two suppliers for this part and the one I got first wasn't up to the task. I went back and bought another which turned out to have a larger opening which worked ok. BB On 16, Dec 2009, at 10:27 AM, John Hauck wrote: > > > >> Here is a link to see one on a 912. You mount it on the left side before the radiator. No pressure problems. You can also use a Perma Cool oil thermostat for the oil. >> >> http://www.flightdesignusa.com/dbimages/big_thermo.jpg >> >> >> Here are two pictures out of a manual. >> >> -------- >> Roger Lee > > > Roger L/Gang: > > Looks like this thermostat will require a new coolant radiator tank to accept the bypass circuit? How much does Rotax want for the header tank with additional outlet? > > Price of the BMW thermostat is reasonable, 18.95. > > Had a couple Fiat Spyders that used the same thermostat bypass system. > > The PDF files out of the manual for coolant and oil thermostats did not come through. Pages won't open. > > john h > mkIII > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 16, 2009
Hi John H, I don't believe you need any different coolant tank. It is only a difference in plumbing. If there is anyone around you with a Flight Design CTLS you could stop by and take a look at theirs. -------- Roger Lee Tucson, Az. Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated Rotax Repair Center 520-574-1080 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277771#277771 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Date: Dec 16, 2009
Bob=2C Rick Lewis & others=2C I also have the inline coolant thermostat=2C for my GEO's coolant system. I chose to use a complete system from a big engined road bike (Honda Inte rstate=2C IIRC=2C but I'm not exactly certain which brand). I got the wate rneck/thermostat housing (which is an inline arrangement)=2C the coolant re covery tank=2C the radiator=2C and the thermostatically controlled electric fan. One of the reasons I specifically chose this particular system is that th e waterneck housing ALSO has the radiator cap=2C for easy fluid filling and monitoring. Now=2C for you folks that have Rotax 912 engines=2C you're likely going t o stay with the factory parts=2C which is perfectly fine. But=2C for those of us with "alternate" water cooled engines=2C you just about can't beat t he selection of high quality motorcycle choices. Of course=2C you're going to want to do a lot of research first=2C and ma ke sure you size the coolant system correctly. In other words=2C make sure you get the equipment sized for your special needs. I got a package deal from a totaled highway cruiser (1400cc or so) (on eB ay). Radiator size was what the redrive maker recommended. All the parts looked like they were less than a year old....price..about $45-$50 for ever ything=2C if I'm not mistaken. It made for a very professional installatio n=2C if I do say so myself!! I haven't installed the electric cooling fan yet. I'll monitor the temps first=2C then make a decision about the fan. It would be an easy mounting job=2C since it came on that radiator=2C and then just wire it in. One more quick note=3B an inline thermostat HAS to be properly located t o do any good. You can't just put it anywhere. It needs to be as close to the block as possible. The temperature sensitive side has to feel the hea ted block coolant in order to open. If the thermostat sits away from the b lock=2C there will not be enough heat passing over the spring to open the u nit! What you'll have is a hot engine with the thermostat acting like a plu g in the system=2C and NEVER opening up. Mike Welch MkIII CX > Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax 912 Question > From: slyck(at)frontiernet.net > Date: Wed=2C 16 Dec 2009 14:08:19 -0500 > To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com > > > I have an inline thermostat on my suzuki. It has to be pushed into a chun k of (large) radiator hose. > Carquest CTH31179 > This was the recommended way to go from the conversion redrive supplier. > I had a problem initially as the volume capacity was too small. > Carquest evidently had two suppliers for this part and the one I got firs t wasn't up to the task. > I went back and bought another which turned out to have a larger opening which worked ok. > BB > > On 16=2C Dec 2009=2C at 10:27 AM=2C John Hauck wrote: > > > > > > > > >> Here is a link to see one on a 912. You mount it on the left side befo re the radiator. No pressure problems. You can also use a Perma Cool oil th ermostat for the oil. > >> > >> http://www.flightdesignusa.com/dbimages/big_thermo.jpg > >> > >> > >> Here are two pictures out of a manual. > >> > >> -------- > >> Roger Lee > > > > > > Roger L/Gang: > > > > Looks like this thermostat will require a new coolant radiator tank to accept the bypass circuit? How much does Rotax want for the header tank wit h additional outlet? > > > > Price of the BMW thermostat is reasonable=2C 18.95. > > > > Had a couple Fiat Spyders that used the same thermostat bypass system. > > > > The PDF files out of the manual for coolant and oil thermostats did not come through. Pages won't open. > > > > john h > > mkIII > > > > > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Date: Dec 16, 2009
> I don't believe you need any different coolant tank. It is only a > difference in plumbing. If there is anyone around you with a Flight Design > CTLS you could stop by and take a look at theirs. > > -------- > Roger Lee No Flight Designs in my neck of the woods. Do you have a good url for the pdf files that show the coolant and thermostat installations? I'm guessing, but they probably come off the 1" hose between the header tank and the radiator inlet with a T to the side barb on the thermostat, which is installed in the radiator outlet hose. That would let the water pump circulate water, bypassing the radiator, and not creating additional pressure because of a restriction caused by a "normal" two opening thermostat housing. That was my problem, water pump overpowering the header tank cap because the thermostat restricting flow. I think my Cummins Diesel uses the same system to recirculate and bypass the radiator during warm-up. If I keep thinking, I may have to splurge for the BMW thermostat, 18.95. However, would a 180F thermostat give me a minimum of 190F oil temp? That was the problem with the engine oil thermostat. Worked great up to its rated temperature, which was less than the 190F required to burn off condensation in the 912. That is why I use the same system most of us use by adjusting temps with gaffer's tape on the radiator. Only have to set the adjustment twice a year. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Date: Dec 16, 2009
Mike W/Gang: Correct me if I am wrong. I believe that is why there is a bleed hole in the thermostat, to allow water to continuously circulate so the thermostat can read the temp and react. john h - Got a good flight in this afternoon. I feel better now. Wind was agressive and hard to predict what it would be doing for more than a few seconds at a time, especially on short, short final. This old pilot is definitely rusty. The 912ULS is screaming with the new Titan Exhaust System. I am happy! mkIII - 2,983.1 hours 912ULS - 414.6 hours One more quick note; an inline thermostat HAS to be properly located to do any good. You can't just put it anywhere. It needs to be as close to the block as possible. The temperature sensitive side has to feel the heated block coolant in order to open. If the thermostat sits away from the block, there will not be enough heat passing over the spring to open the unit! What you'll have is a hot engine with the thermostat acting like a plug in the system, and NEVER opening up. Mike Welch ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Vic" <vicsv(at)myfairpoint.net>
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Date: Dec 16, 2009
Boyd, Does that mean you dont need a shut off to the main radiator when you want heat? Would you get more heat or restrict normal coolant flow too much? Vic ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: New 912 TBO
Date: Dec 16, 2009
Dennis K/Gang: Depends on what your Serial Number is. Could be 1,000; 1,500; or 2,000 hours. TBO is spelled out in this reference for the uncertified versions: http://www.rotax-owner.com/SI_TB_Info/ServiceB/SB-912-057-UL.pdf My feelings are, TBO's do not affect me and my engine because we are uncertified, experimental/homebuilt. I am going to run my engine until I get ready to tear it down. The TBO is primarily for Certified Engines. They must comply with it. TBO doesn't mean the engine is going to last until the time designated. It is a figure Rotax has gleaned from the hours us users are putting on our engines. We are the operational testers for Rotax. My own personal feelings about TBO's. john h mkIII You think this means that the 912UL is still stuck at 1200 hours TBO? Dennis Kirby ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Date: Dec 16, 2009
From: Ellery Batchelder Jr <elleryweld(at)aol.com>
Vic I am just installing a 12500 BTU heater in My Mk3 stop in and check it out Ellery -----Original Message----- From: Vic <vicsv(at)myfairpoint.net> Sent: Wed, Dec 16, 2009 11:06 am Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Rotax 912 Question Boyd, Can you tell us more about your heater? -3 wind chill in Maine. Vic 912ul ======================== =========== - -= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month -- -= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) - -= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on -= the Contribution link below to find out more about -= this year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided -= by: -= * AeroElectric www.aeroelectric.com -= * The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com -= * HomebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com - -= List Contribution Web Site: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution - -= Thank you for your generous support! - -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. - -======================== ======================== =========== -= - The Kolb-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List - -======================== ======================== =========== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! - -= --> http://forums.matronics.com - -======================== ======================== =========== ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Date: Dec 16, 2009
John H=2C Yes=2C you are correct about the little bleed hole. But=2C if you stick the inline thermostat too far from the block=2C you're going to get a "cert ain" amount of cool down. How far is "too" far=2C and how much cool down? I'm not sure. But=2C si nce this is "experimental"=2C I think a guy (or gal) would want to make cer tain their design worked as they planned. As an example of what I'm getting at=3B normally=2C when you start your car/truck/tractor=2C the engine warms and then eventually the warmth gets t o the thermostat=2C opening it up. This is a fairly constant practice=2C a nd has been all worked out by the vehicle's maker. But let's say=2C for the sake of argument=2C you have to locate that ther mostat 28" away from it's original mounting location. Then the question is (not "do you feel lucky?")=3B No=2C the question is=3B how long will that small bleed hole take to get very warm coolant to the thermostat?? Might b e too long. Sure would be a pisser if it were. As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger=2C to allow for " extra" warm coolant flow=2C if we engineer a new system=2C we definitely wa nt to make sure it works. Mike W From: jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax 912 Question Date: Wed=2C 16 Dec 2009 16:20:44 -0600 Mike W/Gang: Correct me if I am wrong. I believe that is why there is a bleed hole in t he thermostat=2C to allow water to continuously circulate so the thermostat can read the temp and react. john h - Got a good flight in this afternoon. I feel better now. Wind was agressive and hard to predict what it would be doing for more than a few s econds at a time=2C especially on short=2C short final. This old pilot is definitely rusty. The 912ULS is screaming with the new Titan Exhaust Syste m. I am happy! mkIII - 2=2C983.1 hours 912ULS - 414.6 hours One more quick note=3B an inline thermostat HAS to be properly located to do any good. You can't just put it anywhere. It needs to be as close t o the block as possible. The temperature sensitive side has to feel the he ated block coolant in order to open. If the thermostat sits away from the block=2C there will not be enough heat passing over the spring to open the unit! What you'll have is a hot engine with the thermostat acting like a pl ug in the system=2C and NEVER opening up. Mike Welch _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Date: Dec 16, 2009
Mike I have a oil thermostat on my VW engine that looks like it has a automotive water thermostat in it. The unit has four ports. When the oil is cold the oil is allowed to loop back to the engine without going to the cooler but some does go through the cooler. When the oil gets to app. 180-185 degrees the thermostat closes the internal loop back port. The design is fairly fail safe but doesn't work as well as I would like in keeping my oil temps as high as I would like. The unit is fairly cheep and might work for you as a water thermostat if you had one for each head. Seems like it has 3/8 or 1/2 inch hose barbs included with the kit. I don't remember the name or cost but the units are sold by VW after market suppliers. Some day I'm going to take the unit apart and go to a automotive store with just the thermostat to find a higher temp thermostat for it. I wrote the manufacture asking for a higher temp thermostat. No luck. The oil temps rise quickly but only go to 180 degrees on a cool day. Rick Neilsen Redrive VW powered MKIIIC ----- Original Message ----- From: Mike Welch To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 6:49 PM Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax 912 Question John H, Yes, you are correct about the little bleed hole. But, if you stick the inline thermostat too far from the block, you're going to get a "certain" amount of cool down. How far is "too" far, and how much cool down? I'm not sure. But, since this is "experimental", I think a guy (or gal) would want to make certain their design worked as they planned. As an example of what I'm getting at; normally, when you start your car/truck/tractor, the engine warms and then eventually the warmth gets to the thermostat, opening it up. This is a fairly constant practice, and has been all worked out by the vehicle's maker. But let's say, for the sake of argument, you have to locate that thermostat 28" away from it's original mounting location. Then the question is (not "do you feel lucky?"); No, the question is; how long will that small bleed hole take to get very warm coolant to the thermostat?? Might be too long. Sure would be a pisser if it were. As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger, to allow for "extra" warm coolant flow, if we engineer a new system, we definitely want to make sure it works. Mike W ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- From: jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax 912 Question Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 16:20:44 -0600 Mike W/Gang: Correct me if I am wrong. I believe that is why there is a bleed hole in the thermostat, to allow water to continuously circulate so the thermostat can read the temp and react. john h - Got a good flight in this afternoon. I feel better now. Wind was agressive and hard to predict what it would be doing for more than a few seconds at a time, especially on short, short final. This old pilot is definitely rusty. The 912ULS is screaming with the new Titan Exhaust System. I am happy! mkIII - 2,983.1 hours 912ULS - 414.6 hours One more quick note; an inline thermostat HAS to be properly located to do any good. You can't just put it anywhere. It needs to be as close to the block as possible. The temperature sensitive side has to feel the heated block coolant in order to open. If the thermostat sits away from the block, there will not be enough heat passing over the spring to open the unit! What you'll have is a hot engine with the thermostat acting like a plug in the system, and NEVER opening up. Mike Welch lectric.com /">www.buildersbooks.com ebuilthelp.com ww.matronics.com/contribution ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List ronics.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Hotmail: Trusted email with powerf/01/' target='_new'>Sign up now. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Date: Dec 16, 2009
Mike W/Gang: Jack H suggested making the bleed hole larger, when I was trying to explain the problems I encountered adapting an inline thermostat on my first 912. The reason for that was to attempt to overcome the overpressure being caused by the restriction in the return line, the header tank with cap, and the water pump. I drilled larger holes to allow some water pump pressure relief, but that reduced the thermostats effectiveness. Was going around in circles. The orginal 350 Chevy thermostat got the temps up fast, but the original 1/8" bleed hole wasn't enough to keep the water pump from blowing water out the cap. If I could have put the thermostat between the water pump and the header tank, it would have worked perfectly. If the water pump had one outlet instead of four, I'd still be using the thermostat. Today I could get a little over 180F engine oil temp, and about 175F CHT, climbing wide open throttle to 3,000 feet msl. OAT was 50F. Crusing 5,200 rpm showed 180F engine oil temp. Engine is running a lot cooler with the Titan Exhaust System. This will work out good next Spring and Summer when the OAT is at the top of the scale. I understand what you are getting at. The thermostat will react sooner the closer it is to the heat source. When we experiment we hope it works. Usually, we have to do a lot of trial and error exercises until we get it the way we want it, or the way it should be. ;-) john h mklIII As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger, to allow for "extra" warm coolant flow, if we engineer a new system, we definitely want to make sure it works. Mike W ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 16, 2009
John, Here are a couple of pictures. Two of the coolant thermostat and one with an oil thermostat. These only go to 180F and won't take an engine to 200F. 180F is about the highest on the market. The tape is less expensive and you can tape until you get your desired temp. These are not cheap either. -------- Roger Lee Tucson, Az. Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated Rotax Repair Center 520-574-1080 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277803#277803 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/oil_thermostat_124.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/coolant_thermostat_1_157.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/coolant_thermostat_629.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2009
From: Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Mike Which engine and are you running it stock? Herb ( with 5 geo engines...three and four cyl...) At 05:49 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote: >John H, > > Yes, you are correct about the little bleed hole. But, if you > stick the inline thermostat too far from the block, you're going to > get a "certain" amount of cool down. > How far is "too" far, and how much cool down? I'm not > sure. But, since this is "experimental", I think a guy (or gal) > would want to make certain their design worked as they planned. > > As an example of what I'm getting at; normally, when you start > your car/truck/tractor, the engine warms and then eventually the > warmth gets to the thermostat, opening it up. This is a fairly > constant practice, and has been all worked out by the vehicle's maker. > But let's say, for the sake of argument, you have to locate that > thermostat 28" away from it's original mounting location. Then the > question is (not "do you feel lucky?"); No, the question is; how > long will that small bleed hole take to get very warm coolant to > the thermostat?? Might be too long. Sure would be a pisser if it were. > > As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger, to allow > for "extra" warm coolant flow, if we engineer a new system, we > definitely want to make sure it works. > >Mike W > > >---------- ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Date: Dec 16, 2009
Rick N/Gang: That's what my 912 was doing today. Once in the air the temp rose right up to 180 and stopped. I may try bi-passing the oil cooler by swapping lines and see how she performs in this weather. Never done it with the 912ULS, only the 912UL. The ULS runs a lot hotter than the UL. If this engine doesn't run too high, that would solve my cold weather flying time without installing a thermostat or taping the radiator. john h mkIII Some day I'm going to take the unit apart and go to a automotive store with just the thermostat to find a higher temp thermostat for it. I wrote the manufacture asking for a higher temp thermostat. No luck. The oil temps rise quickly but only go to 180 degrees on a cool day. Rick Neilsen ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: FSII rebuild progress
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Date: Dec 16, 2009
Didn't do much this last week, various other aspects of life really are more important than airplanes sometimes, but got some work done yesterday and today. These are a bit out of sequence timewise, the first one I just took a couple minutes ago, the bottom of the fuselage is now covered and shrunk. The next picture is looking at the entrance into the boom tube with the fuselage upside down, I put a piece of 1/8" Lexan across the lower edge to keep the cables from chafing on the rivits. Drilled a hole in each end and safety wired it in place. Since it is not the original boom, there are lots of extra holes available... Got the ground plane in for the transponder antenna, one layer of fabric under the seat and feet, and some fabric across the back side of the cage. Transponder tray is in, since it is an experimental aircraft, it is legal to take the head off the transponder and remote the unit away from the part where you select the codes, etc. So it is now where the gas tanks would originally go, keeps it out of the way. The battery will go just ahead and to the right of it, under the package shelf. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277817#277817 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1150609_large_160.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1150604_large_513.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1150603_large_583.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1150600_large_208.jpg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2009
From: Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com>
Subject: Re: FSII rebuild progress
Richard any reason why the whole airframe cannot be the ground plane for the radio? Herb At 08:23 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote: > >Didn't do much this last week, various other aspects of life really >are more important than airplanes sometimes, but got some work done >yesterday and today. > >These are a bit out of sequence timewise, the first one I just took >a couple minutes ago, the bottom of the fuselage is now covered and shrunk. > >The next picture is looking at the entrance into the boom tube with >the fuselage upside down, I put a piece of 1/8" Lexan across the >lower edge to keep the cables from chafing on the rivits. Drilled a >hole in each end and safety wired it in place. Since it is not the >original boom, there are lots of extra holes available... > >Got the ground plane in for the transponder antenna, one layer of >fabric under the seat and feet, and some fabric across the back side >of the cage. > >Transponder tray is in, since it is an experimental aircraft, it is >legal to take the head off the transponder and remote the unit away >from the part where you select the codes, etc. So it is now where >the gas tanks would originally go, keeps it out of the way. The >battery will go just ahead and to the right of it, under the package shelf. > >Richard Pike >MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277817#277817 > > >Attachments: > >http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1150609_large_160.jpg >http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1150604_large_513.jpg >http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1150603_large_583.jpg >http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1150600_large_208.jpg > > >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >12/16/09 19:52:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb engines
Date: Dec 16, 2009
Rick Neilson=2C I believe you suggested a cure for me=2C when I think you meant to direct it to Rick Lewis. He is the one with the water-cooled VW engine. Herb=2C (I changed the subject line to reflect the present answer) I have the three cylinder=2C 1000cc GEO Metro engine=2C with Raven Redriv e's reduction unit=2C Ivo in-flight electric operated prop. I am sorry to say that I have been building on my Kolb MkIII for way too many years. A whole lot of lousy reasons have kept me from finishing it... .until recently. The whole plane is VERY close! The paint is finished=2C except for stripes. The engine is finished except for reinstallation of th e wiring harness and gauges. 90% done=2C only 90% to go! I have been building my new home (1200 ft from the local airport). My wi fe and I moved in the day before Thanksgiving. I'm not 100% done=2C but I only have a few "minor" things to wrap up...about two weeks worth of "proje cts"(closet shelves and such). I put my plane on hold until the house is f inished. I can't do both. Too old=2C I guess. Or just plain too tired to burn the candle at both ends. Anyway=2C the deal was....build the house=2C and then you can take time o ff to finish the Kolb. Not much longer to go! I should be back to work on my plane in January. I have had the normally aspirated GEO engine and prop 100% finished=2C ru nning and fully operational many years ago. The engine was bone stock=2C e xcept for the redrive conversion=2C and some lightening mods. Just turn th e key and fire it up!! Two years ago=2C I decided to install a turbocharger. I did quite a bit of research=2C talked to quite a few guys=2C and bought some stuff. I made my own turbo header=2C exhaust outlet=2C intercooler ducting=2C and in general=2C my OWN custom installation. The only "stock GEO" turbo part I used was the intercooler (from a Chevy Sprint Turbo car)=2C he he he=2C which I proceeded to cut up and have rewel ded to fit my needs! I joined the "Teamswift" chat group=2C the Suzuki cars high performance b unch=2C and found out one of the moderators has a machine shop. This guy c omes HIGHLY recommended by everyone who has had their engine reworked by hi m. I had him regrind my stock "economy" camshaft to a somewhat more agress ive "performance" cam profile. He also redrilled the cam gear=2C another h ighly recommended improvement. So=2C here's what I have now!! A stock internally=2C except for the mild race cam and gear=2C engine. Plus=2C my own turbocharger installation=2C which is now fully complete. I have an extensive set of gauges (in a panel that's finished=2C and ready for installation). The redrive and prop were untouched for any recent mods=2C so they remain operational. I'd need a f ew days to hook up the wiring harness=2C install the panel=2C double check everything=2C and fire it up. I don't claim anything until I see it for myself=2C but according to a fe w guys I've chatted with=2C my GEO engine "should" now be putting out aroun d 95 to 100 HP=2C and maybe around 120 ftlb of torque. As I always say "we 'll see!!" I should be able to get back to work on it sometime in January. I know. A little wordy=2C but you asked. I'm gabby=2C what can I say? Mike Welch MkIIICX Date: Wed=2C 16 Dec 2009 18:19:36 -0600 From: herbgh(at)nctc.com Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax 912 Question Mike Which engine and are you running it stock? Herb ( with 5 geo engines...t hree and four cyl...) At 05:49 PM 12/16/2009=2C you wrote: John H=2C Yes=2C you are correct about the little bleed hole. But=2C if you stick the inline thermostat too far from the block=2C you're going to get a "cert ain" amount of cool down. How far is "too" far=2C and how much cool down? I'm not sure. But=2C si nce this is "experimental"=2C I think a guy (or gal) would want to make cer tain their design worked as they planned. As an example of what I'm getting at=3B normally=2C when you start your car/truck/tractor=2C the engine warms and then eventually the warmth gets t o the thermostat=2C opening it up. This is a fairly constant practice=2C a nd has been all worked out by the vehicle's maker. But let's say=2C for the sake of argument=2C you have to locate that ther mostat 28" away from it's original mounting location. Then the question is (not "do you feel lucky?")=3B No=2C the question is=3B how long will that small bleed hole take to get very warm coolant to the thermostat?? Might b e too long. Sure would be a pisser if it were. As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger=2C to allow for " extra" warm coolant flow=2C if we engineer a new system=2C we definitely wa nt to make sure it works. Mike W _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
Date: Dec 16, 2009
> Here are a couple of pictures. Two of the coolant thermostat and one with > an oil thermostat. These only go to 180F and won't take an engine to 200F. > 180F is about the highest on the market. The tape is less expensive and > you can tape until you get your desired temp. These are not cheap either. > > -------- > Roger Lee Thanks, Roger: I got the photos that time. Still didn't show where they are bringing the bypass water from. I'm going to stick with what I have. Looks like this 912ULS is going to run about 20F cooler with the Titan Exhaust System. May be able to get away with bypassing the oil cooler like I used to do on my 912UL. If not, I'll go to the tape. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2009
From: Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb engines
I was wondering if you were using the stock throttle body fuel system and std computer? Now I need to ask ..Turbo normalized or turbo charged? What did you drop the compression ratio down to to allow the boost if turbocharging......? Herb > I have had the normally aspirated GEO engine and prop 100% > finished, running and fully operational many years ago. The engine > was bone stock, except for the redrive conversion, and some > lightening mods. Just turn the key and fire it up!! > > Two years ago, I decided to install a turbocharger. I did quite > a bit of research, talked to quite a few guys, and bought some > stuff. I made my own turbo header, exhaust outlet, >intercooler ducting, and in general, my OWN custom installation. > The only "stock GEO" turbo part I used was the intercooler (from > a Chevy Sprint Turbo car), he he he, which I proceeded to cut up > and have rewelded to fit my needs! > > I joined the "Teamswift" chat group, the Suzuki cars high > performance bunch, and found out one of the moderators has a > machine shop. This guy comes HIGHLY recommended by everyone who > has had their engine reworked by him. I had him regrind my stock > "economy" camshaft to a somewhat more agressive "performance" cam > profile. He also redrilled the cam gear, another highly > recommended improvement. > > So, here's what I have now!! A stock internally, except for the > mild race cam and gear, engine. Plus, my own turbocharger > installation, which is now fully complete. I have an extensive set > of gauges (in a panel that's finished, and ready for > installation). The redrive and prop were untouched for any recent > mods, so they remain operational. I'd need a few days to hook up > the wiring harness, install the panel, double check everything, and fire it up. > > I don't claim anything until I see it for myself, but according > to a few guys I've chatted with, my GEO engine "should" now be > putting out around 95 to 100 HP, and maybe around 120 ftlb of > torque. As I always say "we'll see!!" > I should be able to get back to work on it sometime in January. > > I know. A little wordy, but you asked. I'm gabby, what can I say? > >Mike Welch >MkIIICX > > >---------- >Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:19:36 -0600 >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >From: herbgh(at)nctc.com >Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax 912 Question > >Mike > > Which engine and are you running it stock? Herb ( with 5 geo > engines...three and four cyl...) > > >At 05:49 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote: >John H, > > Yes, you are correct about the little bleed hole. But, if you > stick the inline thermostat too far from the block, you're going to > get a "certain" amount of cool down. > How far is "too" far, and how much cool down? I'm not > sure. But, since this is "experimental", I think a guy (or gal) > would want to make certain their design worked as they planned. > > As an example of what I'm getting at; normally, when you start > your car/truck/tractor, the engine warms and then eventually the > warmth gets to the thermostat, opening it up. This is a fairly > constant practice, and has been all worked out by the vehicle's maker. > But let's say, for the sake of argument, you have to locate that > thermostat 28" away from it's original mounting location. Then the > question is (not "do you feel lucky?"); No, the question is; how > long will that small bleed hole take to get very warm coolant to > the thermostat?? Might be too long. Sure would be a pisser if it were. > > As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger, to allow > for "extra" warm coolant flow, if we engineer a new system, we > definitely want to make sure it works. > >Mike W > > >---------- > > >lectric.com >/">www.buildersbooks.com >ebuilthelp.com >ww.matronics.com/contribution >ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List >ronics.com > > >---------- >Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up now. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: FSII rebuild progress
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Date: Dec 16, 2009
herbgh(at)nctc.com wrote: > Richard > > any reason why the whole airframe cannot be the ground plane for > the radio? Herb > > Hi Herb, did some digging online, and as best I can tell (I used to remember, but that's gone...) you want a ground plane that radiates out from the antenna and ties into the airframe, assuming the airframe is steel. I wanted the antenna away from the gear legs, so I would have had to put something in the belly of the fuselage anyway, and those strips were available and easy to form, so it was pragmatic mostly. Best radio reception I ever had was with an antenna mounted atop the two-piece kingpost on the Hummer. Landing wires running out to the wings, the kingpost running fore and aft, it was remarkable. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277827#277827 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2009
From: Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com>
Subject: Re: FSII rebuild progress
Standard Am radio practice is to bury the ground wires in a radial fashion out from the base of the vertical antenna..so I can understand the landing wires(radials). contributing to the efficiency of your radio... An SWR meter might help to improve our radio effectivness... Herb At 09:08 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote: > > >herbgh(at)nctc.com wrote: > > Richard > > > > any reason why the whole airframe cannot be the ground plane for > > the radio? Herb > > > > > > >Hi Herb, did some digging online, and as best I can tell (I used to >remember, but that's gone...) you want a ground plane that radiates >out from the antenna and ties into the airframe, assuming the >airframe is steel. I wanted the antenna away from the gear legs, so >I would have had to put something in the belly of the fuselage >anyway, and those strips were available and easy to form, so it was >pragmatic mostly. > >Best radio reception I ever had was with an antenna mounted atop the >two-piece kingpost on the Hummer. Landing wires running out to the >wings, the kingpost running fore and aft, it was remarkable. > >Richard Pike >MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277827#277827 > > >Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >12/16/09 19:52:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb engines
Date: Dec 16, 2009
Herb=2C Stock engine. Stock ECU computer and stock throttle body injection. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "turbo normalized" or "turbocharged ". I've heard the expression=2C I just don't know what it means. But=2C since my engine is bone stock=2C this means I made no internal compression ratio changes....I didn't need to! Here's why=3B A stock ECU (electronic control unit) can handle air/fuel ratios and adju st timing for varying atmospheric conditions UP to 5 psi. You get varying atmospheric pressures by driving from Death Valley to Pike's Peak. This is a stock ECU parameter. You can also boost your engine with a turbo to 5 psi. No problem. But=2C I want just a tad more than 5 psi boost....say=2C around 8! I hav e made external mods to allow for increased fuel enrichment. According to the guys that build race motors for the Suzuki cars=2C stock compression of about 9.0 to 1 can handle 8 psi boost...no problem. Compr ession would need to be altered for around 14+ psi boost. These guys are l ike Suzuki race geeks=2C they eat=2C sleep=2C and breathe this hotrod crap. I'm going by what many of them have said. They're not shade tree mechani cs=2C some of these guys do this for a living....and from all the reports f rom their customers I've read about their work=2C they know their "stuff"! Mike Date: Wed=2C 16 Dec 2009 20:57:52 -0600 From: herbgh(at)nctc.com Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb engines I was wondering if you were using the stock throttle body fuel system and s td computer? Now I need to ask ..Turbo normalized or turbo charged? What did you dro p the compression ratio down to to allow the boost if turbocharging......? Herb I have had the normally aspirated GEO engine and prop 100% finished=2C ru nning and fully operational many years ago. The engine was bone stock=2C e xcept for the redrive conversion=2C and some lightening mods. Just turn th e key and fire it up!! Two years ago=2C I decided to install a turbocharger. I did quite a bit of research=2C talked to quite a few guys=2C and bought some stuff. I made my own turbo header=2C exhaust outlet=2C intercooler ducting=2C and in general=2C my OWN custom installation. The only "stock GEO" turbo part I used was the intercooler (from a Chevy Sprint Turbo car)=2C he he he=2C which I proceeded to cut up and have rewel ded to fit my needs! I joined the "Teamswift" chat group=2C the Suzuki cars high performance b unch=2C and found out one of the moderators has a machine shop. This guy c omes HIGHLY recommended by everyone who has had their engine reworked by hi m. I had him regrind my stock "economy" camshaft to a somewhat more agress ive "performance" cam profile. He also redrilled the cam gear=2C another h ighly recommended improvement. So=2C here's what I have now!! A stock internally=2C except for the mild race cam and gear=2C engine. Plus=2C my own turbocharger installation=2C which is now fully complete. I have an extensive set of gauges (in a panel that's finished=2C and ready for installation). The redrive and prop were untouched for any recent mods=2C so they remain operational. I'd need a f ew days to hook up the wiring harness=2C install the panel=2C double check everything=2C and fire it up. I don't claim anything until I see it for myself=2C but according to a fe w guys I've chatted with=2C my GEO engine "should" now be putting out aroun d 95 to 100 HP=2C and maybe around 120 ftlb of torque. As I always say "we 'll see!!" I should be able to get back to work on it sometime in January. I know. A little wordy=2C but you asked. I'm gabby=2C what can I say? Mike Welch MkIIICX Date: Wed=2C 16 Dec 2009 18:19:36 -0600 From: herbgh(at)nctc.com Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax 912 Question Mike Which engine and are you running it stock? Herb ( with 5 geo engines...t hree and four cyl...) At 05:49 PM 12/16/2009=2C you wrote: John H=2C Yes=2C you are correct about the little bleed hole. But=2C if you stick the inline thermostat too far from the block=2C you're going to get a "cert ain" amount of cool down. How far is "too" far=2C and how much cool down? I'm not sure. But=2C si nce this is "experimental"=2C I think a guy (or gal) would want to make cer tain their design worked as they planned. As an example of what I'm getting at=3B normally=2C when you start your car/truck/tractor=2C the engine warms and then eventually the warmth gets t o the thermostat=2C opening it up. This is a fairly constant practice=2C a nd has been all worked out by the vehicle's maker. But let's say=2C for the sake of argument=2C you have to locate that ther mostat 28" away from it's original mounting location. Then the question is (not "do you feel lucky?")=3B No=2C the question is=3B how long will that small bleed hole take to get very warm coolant to the thermostat?? Might b e too long. Sure would be a pisser if it were. As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger=2C to allow for " extra" warm coolant flow=2C if we engineer a new system=2C we definitely wa nt to make sure it works. Mike W lectric.com /">www.buildersbooks.com ebuilthelp.com ww.matronics.com/contribution ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List ronics.com Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up no w. _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2009
From: Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com>
Subject: Kolb engines
Surely hope that it works out to be a good and reliable engine... they have been very successful on trikes... more questions...what redrive ratio? and prop length and # blades... My experience with my buds Loehle 5151 tells me that the 3 cyl engine needs to be able to turn 5500 rpms to give good take off and climb performance equivalent to the 582.. He had a 2 to 1 redrive ratio . Raven product.....I thought it needed to be closer to 3 to 1... he went to the 1.3 liter engine...and bought a redrive from a fellow in the mid west...Kansas? It is 2 to 1 also...Herb At 10:22 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote: >Herb, > > Stock engine. Stock ECU computer and stock throttle body injection. > > I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "turbo normalized" or > "turbocharged". I've heard the expression, I just don't know what > it means. But, since my engine is bone stock, this means I made no > internal compression ratio changes....I didn't need to! > >Here's why; > A stock ECU (electronic control unit) can handle air/fuel ratios > and adjust timing for varying atmospheric conditions UP to 5 > psi. You get varying atmospheric pressures by driving from Death > Valley to Pike's Peak. This is a stock ECU parameter. You can > also boost your engine with a turbo to 5 psi. No problem. > But, I want just a tad more than 5 psi boost....say, around 8! I > have made external mods to allow for increased fuel enrichment. > According to the guys that build race motors for the Suzuki cars, > stock compression of about 9.0 to 1 can handle 8 psi boost...no > problem. Compression would need to be altered for around 14+ psi > boost. These guys are like Suzuki race geeks, they eat, sleep, and > breathe this hotrod crap. I'm going by what many of them have > said. They're not shade tree mechanics, some of these guys do this > for a living....and from all the reports from their customers I've > read about their work, they know their "stuff"! > >Mike > >---------- >Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 20:57:52 -0600 >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >From: herbgh(at)nctc.com >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb engines > >I was wondering if you were using the stock throttle body fuel >system and std computer? > > Now I need to ask ..Turbo normalized or turbo charged? What did > you drop the compression ratio down to to allow the boost if > turbocharging......? Herb > > > I have had the normally aspirated GEO engine and prop 100% > finished, running and fully operational many years ago. The engine > was bone stock, except for the redrive conversion, and some > lightening mods. Just turn the key and fire it up!! > > Two years ago, I decided to install a turbocharger. I did quite > a bit of research, talked to quite a few guys, and bought some > stuff. I made my own turbo header, exhaust outlet, >intercooler ducting, and in general, my OWN custom installation. > The only "stock GEO" turbo part I used was the intercooler (from > a Chevy Sprint Turbo car), he he he, which I proceeded to cut up > and have rewelded to fit my needs! > > I joined the "Teamswift" chat group, the Suzuki cars high > performance bunch, and found out one of the moderators has a > machine shop. This guy comes HIGHLY recommended by everyone who > has had their engine reworked by him. I had him regrind my stock > "economy" camshaft to a somewhat more agressive "performance" cam > profile. He also redrilled the cam gear, another highly > recommended improvement. > > So, here's what I have now!! A stock internally, except for the > mild race cam and gear, engine. Plus, my own turbocharger > installation, which is now fully complete. I have an extensive set > of gauges (in a panel that's finished, and ready for > installation). The redrive and prop were untouched for any recent > mods, so they remain operational. I'd need a few days to hook up > the wiring harness, install the panel, double check everything, and fire it up. > > I don't claim anything until I see it for myself, but according > to a few guys I've chatted with, my GEO engine "should" now be > putting out around 95 to 100 HP, and maybe around 120 ftlb of > torque. As I always say "we'll see!!" > I should be able to get back to work on it sometime in January. > > I know. A little wordy, but you asked. I'm gabby, what can I say? > >Mike Welch >MkIIICX > > >---------- >Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:19:36 -0600 >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >From: herbgh(at)nctc.com >Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax 912 Question > >Mike > > Which engine and are you running it stock? Herb ( with 5 geo > engines...three and four cyl...) > > >At 05:49 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote: >John H, > > Yes, you are correct about the little bleed hole. But, if you > stick the inline thermostat too far from the block, you're going to > get a "certain" amount of cool down. > How far is "too" far, and how much cool down? I'm not > sure. But, since this is "experimental", I think a guy (or gal) > would want to make certain their design worked as they planned. > > As an example of what I'm getting at; normally, when you start > your car/truck/tractor, the engine warms and then eventually the > warmth gets to the thermostat, opening it up. This is a fairly > constant practice, and has been all worked out by the vehicle's maker. > But let's say, for the sake of argument, you have to locate that > thermostat 28" away from it's original mounting location. Then the > question is (not "do you feel lucky?"); No, the question is; how > long will that small bleed hole take to get very warm coolant to > the thermostat?? Might be too long. Sure would be a pisser if it were. > > As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger, to allow > for "extra" warm coolant flow, if we engineer a new system, we > definitely want to make sure it works. > >Mike W > >---------- > > >lectric.com > >/">www.buildersbooks.com > >ebuilthelp.com > >ww.matronics.com/contribution > >ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List > >ronics.com > > >---------- >Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up now. > > >lectric.com >/">www.buildersbooks.com >ebuilthelp.com >ww.matronics.com/contribution >ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List >ronics.com > > >---------- >Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up now. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2009
Subject: Flight Simulators
From: Duane Ransdell <radiobluebook(at)gmail.com>
Hi Group, With the onset of winter and/or lack of heat in the cockpit I'm looking for a decent flight sim program that I can simulate something close to a Kolb MKII or MKIII. Anyone have one they can recommend? Duane ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb engines
Date: Dec 16, 2009
Hi Herb=2C group=2C I hope it turns out to be a good and reliable engine=2C too=2C or it'll h it the crap pile rickety tick. Old military expresion. (But=2C I doubt t hat it'll come to that!) Yes=2C there appears to be a lot of them that get installed on trikes=2C for some unknown reason. ?? More answers. 2.25 to 1=2C if I remember correctly. Ivo three blade=2C 69". I can change pitch from flat to steep in 10 seconds=2C or less.=2C wh ich means I can surely adjust pitch for max 5500 T.O. rpm. I think a 3 to 1 redrive would not work well in our situation. A 3 to 1 would allow for a HUGE prop (76"??). Way too big for the pusher applicatio n=2C I think. It'd work great on a tractor style taildragger=2C tho. Like I said=2C I should be able to get back to work on the plane in Janua ry. One of the first things I will do is get the engine running. I'll def initely let those that care a full report. BTW=2C I'm curious if anyone has ever put together a good working thrust device.....for measuring their airplane's static thrust. Anyone??? Anyone ?? Mike Welch MkIII CX Date: Wed=2C 16 Dec 2009 22:41:27 -0600 From: herbgh(at)nctc.com Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Kolb engines Surely hope that it works out to be a good and reliable engine... they have been very successful on trikes... more questions...what redrive ratio? and prop length and # blades... My e xperience with my buds Loehle 5151 tells me that the 3 cyl engine needs to be able to turn 5500 rpms to give good take off and climb performance equiv alent to the 582.. He had a 2 to 1 redrive ratio . Raven product.....I th ought it needed to be closer to 3 to 1... he went to the 1.3 liter engine.. .and bought a redrive from a fellow in the mid west...Kansas? It is 2 to 1 also...Herb At 10:22 PM 12/16/2009=2C you wrote: Herb=2C Stock engine. Stock ECU computer and stock throttle body injection. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "turbo normalized" or "turbocharged ". I've heard the expression=2C I just don't know what it means. But=2C since my engine is bone stock=2C this means I made no internal compression ratio changes....I didn't need to! Here's why=3B A stock ECU (electronic control unit) can handle air/fuel ratios and adju st timing for varying atmospheric conditions UP to 5 psi. You get varying atmospheric pressures by driving from Death Valley to Pike's Peak. This is a stock ECU parameter. You can also boost your engine with a turbo to 5 psi. No problem. But=2C I want just a tad more than 5 psi boost....say=2C around 8! I hav e made external mods to allow for increased fuel enrichment. According to the guys that build race motors for the Suzuki cars=2C stock compression of about 9.0 to 1 can handle 8 psi boost...no problem. Compr ession would need to be altered for around 14+ psi boost. These guys are l ike Suzuki race geeks=2C they eat=2C sleep=2C and breathe this hotrod crap. I'm going by what many of them have said. They're not shade tree mechani cs=2C some of these guys do this for a living....and from all the reports f rom their customers I've read about their work=2C they know their "stuff"! Mike Date: Wed=2C 16 Dec 2009 20:57:52 -0600 From: herbgh(at)nctc.com Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb engines I was wondering if you were using the stock throttle body fuel system and s td computer? Now I need to ask ..Turbo normalized or turbo charged? What did you dro p the compression ratio down to to allow the boost if turbocharging......? Herb I have had the normally aspirated GEO engine and prop 100% finished=2C ru nning and fully operational many years ago. The engine was bone stock=2C e xcept for the redrive conversion=2C and some lightening mods. Just turn th e key and fire it up!! Two years ago=2C I decided to install a turbocharger. I did quite a bit of research=2C talked to quite a few guys=2C and bought some stuff. I made my own turbo header=2C exhaust outlet=2C intercooler ducting=2C and in general=2C my OWN custom installation. The only "stock GEO" turbo part I used was the intercooler (from a Chevy Sprint Turbo car)=2C he he he=2C which I proceeded to cut up and have rewel ded to fit my needs! I joined the "Teamswift" chat group=2C the Suzuki cars high performance b unch=2C and found out one of the moderators has a machine shop. This guy c omes HIGHLY recommended by everyone who has had their engine reworked by hi m. I had him regrind my stock "economy" camshaft to a somewhat more agress ive "performance" cam profile. He also redrilled the cam gear=2C another h ighly recommended improvement. So=2C here's what I have now!! A stock internally=2C except for the mild race cam and gear=2C engine. Plus=2C my own turbocharger installation=2C which is now fully complete. I have an extensive set of gauges (in a panel that's finished=2C and ready for installation). The redrive and prop were untouched for any recent mods=2C so they remain operational. I'd need a f ew days to hook up the wiring harness=2C install the panel=2C double check everything=2C and fire it up. I don't claim anything until I see it for myself=2C but according to a fe w guys I've chatted with=2C my GEO engine "should" now be putting out aroun d 95 to 100 HP=2C and maybe around 120 ftlb of torque. As I always say "we 'll see!!" I should be able to get back to work on it sometime in January. I know. A little wordy=2C but you asked. I'm gabby=2C what can I say? Mike Welch MkIIICX Date: Wed=2C 16 Dec 2009 18:19:36 -0600 From: herbgh(at)nctc.com Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax 912 Question Mike Which engine and are you running it stock? Herb ( with 5 geo engines...t hree and four cyl...) At 05:49 PM 12/16/2009=2C you wrote: John H=2C Yes=2C you are correct about the little bleed hole. But=2C if you stick the inline thermostat too far from the block=2C you're going to get a "cert ain" amount of cool down. How far is "too" far=2C and how much cool down? I'm not sure. But=2C si nce this is "experimental"=2C I think a guy (or gal) would want to make cer tain their design worked as they planned. As an example of what I'm getting at=3B normally=2C when you start your car/truck/tractor=2C the engine warms and then eventually the warmth gets t o the thermostat=2C opening it up. This is a fairly constant practice=2C a nd has been all worked out by the vehicle's maker. But let's say=2C for the sake of argument=2C you have to locate that ther mostat 28" away from it's original mounting location. Then the question is (not "do you feel lucky?")=3B No=2C the question is=3B how long will that small bleed hole take to get very warm coolant to the thermostat?? Might b e too long. Sure would be a pisser if it were. As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger=2C to allow for " extra" warm coolant flow=2C if we engineer a new system=2C we definitely wa nt to make sure it works. Mike W lectric.com /">www.buildersbooks.com ebuilthelp.com ww.matronics.com/contribution ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List ronics.com Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up no w. lectric.com /">www.buildersbooks.com ebuilthelp.com ww.matronics.com/contribution ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List ronics.com Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up no w. _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft=92s powerful SPAM protection. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 16, 2009
From: Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com>
Subject: Kolb engines
Static thrust can be measured by using a die spring... I came across it when I was designing a die spring landing gear for my N3 Pup... Here is the message from some years ago..on the N3 Pup list... "I discovered that a 10 inch > blue > >die spring will make a static thrust tester. Just a ruller > with > >tenths of an inch scale and the die spring and some sort of mount would > be > >all that is necessary. The die spring deflects(compresses ) .1 inch for 10lbs > of > >pull--eg: 2.5 inches for 250 lbs---3.5 for 350 lbs and 4.5 for 450 > lbs. > >it would have to be mounted and used in compression mode. I would > >suggest a holder built much like the die spring landing gear . " I think the id was 3/4 inch...just google die springs and you will come up with charts and all the info .. Otherwise a commercial scale can be had...Herb At 11:09 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote: >Hi Herb, group, > > I hope it turns out to be a good and reliable engine, too, or > it'll hit the crap pile rickety tick. Old military > expresion. (But, I doubt that it'll come to that!) > > Yes, there appears to be a lot of them that get installed on > trikes, for some unknown reason. ?? > > More answers. 2.25 to 1, if I remember correctly. Ivo three > blade, 69". I can change pitch from flat to steep in 10 seconds, > or less., which means I can surely adjust pitch for max 5500 T.O. rpm. > I think a 3 to 1 redrive would not work well in our situation. A > 3 to 1 would allow for a HUGE prop (76"??). Way too big for the > pusher application, I think. It'd work great on a tractor style > taildragger, tho. > > Like I said, I should be able to get back to work on the plane in > January. One of the first things I will do is get the engine > running. I'll definitely let those that care a full report. > > BTW, I'm curious if anyone has ever put together a good working > thrust device.....for measuring their airplane's static > thrust. Anyone??? Anyone?? > >Mike Welch >MkIII CX > > >---------- >Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 22:41:27 -0600 >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >From: herbgh(at)nctc.com >Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Kolb engines > >Surely hope that it works out to be a good and reliable engine... >they have been very successful on trikes... > > more questions...what redrive ratio? and prop length and # > blades... My experience with my buds Loehle 5151 tells me that the > 3 cyl engine needs to be able to turn 5500 rpms to give good take > off and climb performance equivalent to the 582.. He had a 2 to > 1 redrive ratio . Raven product.....I thought it needed to be > closer to 3 to 1... he went to the 1.3 liter engine...and bought a > redrive from a fellow in the mid west...Kansas? It is 2 to 1 also...Herb > > >At 10:22 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote: >Herb, > > Stock engine. Stock ECU computer and stock throttle body injection. > > I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "turbo normalized" or > "turbocharged". I've heard the expression, I just don't know what > it means. But, since my engine is bone stock, this means I made no > internal compression ratio changes....I didn't need to! > >Here's why; > A stock ECU (electronic control unit) can handle air/fuel ratios > and adjust timing for varying atmospheric conditions UP to 5 > psi. You get varying atmospheric pressures by driving from Death > Valley to Pike's Peak. This is a stock ECU parameter. You can > also boost your engine with a turbo to 5 psi. No problem. > But, I want just a tad more than 5 psi boost....say, around 8! I > have made external mods to allow for increased fuel enrichment. > According to the guys that build race motors for the Suzuki cars, > stock compression of about 9.0 to 1 can handle 8 psi boost...no > problem. Compression would need to be altered for around 14+ psi > boost. These guys are like Suzuki race geeks, they eat, sleep, and > breathe this hotrod crap. I'm going by what many of them have > said. They're not shade tree mechanics, some of these guys do this > for a living....and from all the reports from their customers I've > read about their work, they know their "stuff"! > >Mike > >---------- >Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 20:57:52 -0600 >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >From: herbgh(at)nctc.com >Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb engines > >I was wondering if you were using the stock throttle body fuel >system and std computer? > > Now I need to ask ..Turbo normalized or turbo charged? What did > you drop the compression ratio down to to allow the boost if > turbocharging......? Herb > > > I have had the normally aspirated GEO engine and prop 100% > finished, running and fully operational many years ago. The engine > was bone stock, except for the redrive conversion, and some > lightening mods. Just turn the key and fire it up!! > > Two years ago, I decided to install a turbocharger. I did quite > a bit of research, talked to quite a few guys, and bought some > stuff. I made my own turbo header, exhaust outlet, >intercooler ducting, and in general, my OWN custom installation. > The only "stock GEO" turbo part I used was the intercooler (from > a Chevy Sprint Turbo car), he he he, which I proceeded to cut up > and have rewelded to fit my needs! > > I joined the "Teamswift" chat group, the Suzuki cars high > performance bunch, and found out one of the moderators has a > machine shop. This guy comes HIGHLY recommended by everyone who > has had their engine reworked by him. I had him regrind my stock > "economy" camshaft to a somewhat more agressive "performance" cam > profile. He also redrilled the cam gear, another highly > recommended improvement. > > So, here's what I have now!! A stock internally, except for the > mild race cam and gear, engine. Plus, my own turbocharger > installation, which is now fully complete. I have an extensive set > of gauges (in a panel that's finished, and ready for > installation). The redrive and prop were untouched for any recent > mods, so they remain operational. I'd need a few days to hook up > the wiring harness, install the panel, double check everything, and > fire it up. > > I don't claim anything until I see it for myself, but according > to a few guys I've chatted with, my GEO engine "should" now be > putting out around 95 to 100 HP, and maybe around 120 ftlb of > torque. As I always say "we'll see!!" > I should be able to get back to work on it sometime in January. > > I know. A little wordy, but you asked. I'm gabby, what can I say? > >Mike Welch >MkIIICX > >---------- >Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:19:36 -0600 >To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >From: herbgh(at)nctc.com >Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax 912 Question >Mike > Which engine and are you running it stock? Herb ( with 5 geo > engines...three and four cyl...) > >At 05:49 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote: >John H, > > Yes, you are correct about the little bleed hole. But, if you > stick the inline thermostat too far from the block, you're going to > get a "certain" amount of cool down. > How far is "too" far, and how much cool down? I'm not > sure. But, since this is "experimental", I think a guy (or gal) > would want to make certain their design worked as they planned. > > As an example of what I'm getting at; normally, when you start > your car/truck/tractor, the engine warms and then eventually the > warmth gets to the thermostat, opening it up. This is a fairly > constant practice, and has been all worked out by the vehicle's maker. > But let's say, for the sake of argument, you have to locate that > thermostat 28" away from it's original mounting location. Then the > question is (not "do you feel lucky?"); No, the question is; how > long will that small bleed hole take to get very warm coolant to > the thermostat?? Might be too long. Sure would be a pisser if it were. > > As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger, to allow > for "extra" warm coolant flow, if we engineer a new system, we > definitely want to make sure it works. > >Mike W > >---------- > > >lectric.com > > >/">www.buildersbooks.com > > >ebuilthelp.com > > >ww.matronics.com/contribution > > >ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List > > >ronics.com > > >---------- >Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up now. > > >lectric.com > >/">www.buildersbooks.com > >ebuilthelp.com > >ww.matronics.com/contribution > >ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List > >ronics.com > > >---------- >Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up now. > > >lectric.com >/">www.buildersbooks.com >ebuilthelp.com >ww.matronics.com/contribution >ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List >ronics.com > > >---------- >Hotmail: Trusted email with Micros7141664/direct/01/' >target='_new'>Sign up now. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2009
From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Kolb engines
At 11:22 PM 12/16/2009, Mike Welch wrote: > I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "turbo normalized" or > "turbocharged". I've heard the expression, I just don't know what it > means. But, since my engine is bone stock, this means I made no internal > compression ratio changes....I didn't need to! A car with a turbo would be turbocharged, raising the manifold pressure above 1 atmosphere. Turbo normalizing is for aircraft; there is zero boost at sea level but the turbo keeps the manifold pressure at sea level normal even at high altitudes. -Dana -- As I learn the innermost secrets of the people around me, they reward me in many ways to keep me quiet. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2009
From: kolbdriver(at)mlsharp.com
Subject: Kolb engines
Mike, - There was an article in either Kitplanes, Sport Pilot, or the other EAA rag about a thrust measuring device.- I'll see if I can dig it up and scan i t for ya... - Mike, (the other one in Missouri with a Geo eng on a Kolb!) - --- On Wed, 12/16/09, Mike Welch wrote: From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Kolb engines Date: Wednesday, December 16, 2009, 11:09 PM Hi Herb, group, - - I hope it turns out to be a good and reliable engine, too,-or it'll h it the crap pile rickety tick.- Old military expresion.- -(But, I dou bt that it'll come to that!) - - Yes, there appears to be a lot of them that get installed on trikes, fo r some unknown reason.- ?? - - More answers.- 2.25 to 1,-if I remember correctly.- Ivo three bla de, 69".- I can change pitch from flat to steep in 10 seconds, or less., which means I can surely adjust pitch for max 5500 T.O.-rpm. - I think a 3 to 1 redrive would not work well in our situation.- A 3 t o 1 would allow for a HUGE prop (76"??).- Way too big for the pusher appl ication, I think.- It'd work great on a tractor style taildragger, tho. - - Like I said, I should be able to get back to work on the plane in Janua ry.- One of the first things I will do is get the engine running.- I'll definitely let those that-care a full report. - - BTW, I'm curious if anyone has ever put together a good working thrust device.....for measuring their airplane's static thrust.-- Anyone??? An yone?? - Mike Welch MkIII CX-- - Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 22:41:27 -0600 From: herbgh(at)nctc.com Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Kolb engines Surely hope that it works out to be a good and reliable engine... they have been very successful on trikes... - more questions...what redrive ratio? and prop length and # blades... My experience with my buds Loehle 5151 tells me that the 3 cyl engine needs t o be able to turn 5500 rpms to give good take off and climb performance equ ivalent to the 582..- He had a 2 to 1- redrive ratio . Raven product... ..I thought it needed to be closer to 3 to 1... he went to the 1.3 liter en gine...and bought a redrive from a fellow in the mid west...Kansas?-- I t is 2 to 1 also...Herb- At 10:22 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote: Herb, - - Stock engine.- Stock ECU computer and stock throttle body injection. - - I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "turbo normalized" or "turbocharg ed".-- I've heard the expression, I just don't know what it means.- B ut, since my engine is bone stock, this means I made no internal compressio n ratio changes....I didn't need to! - Here's why; - A stock ECU (electronic control unit) can handle air/fuel ratios and ad just timing for varying atmospheric conditions UP to 5 psi.-- You get v arying atmospheric pressures by driving from Death Valley to Pike's Peak. -- This is a stock ECU parameter.- You can also boost your engine wit h a turbo to 5 psi.- No problem. - But, I want just a tad more than 5 psi boost....say, around 8!- I hav e made external mods to allow for increased fuel enrichment. - According to the guys that build race motors for the Suzuki cars, stock compression of about 9.0 to 1 can handle 8 psi boost...no problem.-- C ompression would need to be altered for around 14+ psi boost.- These guys are like Suzuki race geeks, they eat, sleep, and breathe this hotrod crap. - I'm going by what many of them have said.- They're not shade tree mec hanics, some of these guys do this for a living....and from all the reports from their customers I've read about their work, they know their "stuff"! - Mike Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 20:57:52 -0600 From: herbgh(at)nctc.com Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb engines I was wondering if you were using the stock throttle body fuel system and s td computer?- - Now I need to ask ..Turbo normalized or turbo charged?-- What did y ou drop the compression ratio down to to allow- the boost if turbochargin g......? Herb - I have had the normally aspirated GEO engine and prop 100% finished, ru nning and fully operational many years ago.- The engine was bone stock, e xcept for the redrive conversion, and some lightening mods.- Just turn th e key and fire it up!! - - Two years ago, I decided to install a turbocharger.- I did quite a bi t of research, talked to quite a few guys, and bought some stuff.- I made my own turbo header, exhaust outlet, intercooler ducting, and in general, my OWN custom installation. - The only "stock GEO" turbo part I used was the intercooler (from a Chev y Sprint Turbo car), he he he, which I proceeded to cut up and have rewelde d to fit my needs! - - I joined the "Teamswift" chat group, the Suzuki cars high performance b unch, and found out one of the moderators has a machine shop.- This guy c omes HIGHLY recommended by everyone who has had their engine reworked by hi m.- I had him regrind my stock "economy" camshaft to a somewhat more agre ssive "performance" cam profile.- He also redrilled the cam gear, another highly recommended improvement. - - So, here's what I have now!!- A stock internally, except for the mild race cam and gear, engine.- Plus, my own turbocharger installation, whic h is now fully complete.- I have an extensive set of gauges (in a panel t hat's finished, and ready for installation).- The redrive and prop were u ntouched for any recent mods, so they remain operational.- I'd need a few days to hook up the wiring harness, install the panel, double check everyt hing, and fire it up. - - I don't claim anything until I see it for myself, but according to a fe w guys I've chatted with, my GEO engine "should" now be putting out around 95 to 100 HP, and maybe around 120 ftlb of torque.- As I always say "we'l l see!!"- - I should be able to get back to work on it sometime in January. - - I know.- A little wordy, but you asked.- I'm gabby, what can I say? - Mike Welch MkIIICX - Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:19:36 -0600 From: herbgh(at)nctc.com Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax 912 Question Mike - Which engine and are you running it stock?- Herb ( with 5 geo engines ...three and four cyl...)- At 05:49 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote: John H, - - Yes, you are correct about the little bleed hole.- But, if you stick the inline thermostat too far from the block, you're going to get a "certai n" amount of cool down. - How far is "too" far, and how much cool down?- I'm not sure.- But, since this is "experimental", I think a guy (or gal) would want to make cer tain their design worked as they planned. - - As an example of what I'm getting at;- normally, when you start your car/truck/tractor, the engine warms and then eventually the warmth gets to the thermostat, opening it up.- This is a fairly constant practice, and h as been all worked out by the vehicle's maker. - But let's say, for the sake of argument, you have to locate that thermo stat 28" away from it's original mounting location.- Then the question is (not "do you feel lucky?"); No, the question is; how long will that small bleed hole take to get very warm coolant to the thermostat??- Might be to o long.- Sure would be a pisser if it were. - - As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger, to allow for " extra" warm coolant flow, if we engineer a new system, we definitely want t o make sure it works. - Mike W - lectric.com /">www.buildersbooks.com ebuilthelp.com ww.matronics.com/contribution ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List ronics.com Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up no w. lectric.com /">www.buildersbooks.com ebuilthelp.com ww.matronics.com/contribution ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List ronics.com Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up no w. lectric.com /">www.buildersbooks.com ebuilthelp.com ww.matronics.com/contribution ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List ronics.com Hotmail: Trusted email with Micros7141664/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up now. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Frapper ( gone )
From: "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 17, 2009
I finally figured out how to create a google map with pins. I made one with all the Slingshots in the FAA registration database. I also finally figured out how to get a link directly to that map. It follows for anyone who is interested. http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=114767234655221336249.000477e31ae47f709303d&z=5 or is as a tinyurl http://tinyurl.com/y9dw6rq -------- Thom Riddle Buffalo, NY Kolb Slingshot SS-021 Jabiru 2200A #1574 Tennessee Prop 64x31 There is no pleasure in having nothing to do; the fun is in having lots to do and not doing it. - Mary Wilson Little Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=277878#277878 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Thom Riddle <riddletr(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 17, 2009
Subject: Re: Kolb enginesKolb enginesRe: Rotax 912 Question
....I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "turbo normalized" or "turbocharged ". I've heard the expression=2C I just don't know what it means. * * * * *Turbocharged is a generic term that means the intake pressure is boosted by a turbine driven by exhaust gases. However, in typical usage, it means that the boost is somewhat above ambient pressure. By contrast, a TurboNormalized engine is one in which the boost is limited to maintaining sea level equivalent pressure as the aircraft climbs into less dense air, up to the limits of that turbo's capability.* * * *Thom in Buffalo* ________________________________________________________________________________
From: robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb engines
Date: Dec 17, 2009
Herb, Mike is close; 2.26:1(Raven) Normally aspirated (no huffer) with a single barrel carb mine starts putting out decent power at 5300 rpm. The torque curve is quite broad with a peak at 3800 and HP top at 5500. Mike's reground camshaft should improve that for aircraft use. I feel Mike should limit boost to short duration climb and altitude normalization. Just a little should add a good kick in the pants. I don't think they had knock sensors on the Metros or Sprints. It would be nice to have one a dyno to do some tweaking. BB On 16, Dec 2009, at 11:41 PM, Herb wrote: > Surely hope that it works out to be a good and reliable engine... they have been very successful on trikes... > > more questions...what redrive ratio? and prop length and # blades... My experience with my buds Loehle 5151 tells me that the 3 cyl engine needs to be able to turn 5500 rpms to give good take off and climb performance equivalent to the 582.. He had a 2 to 1 redrive ratio . Raven product.....I thought it needed to be closer to 3 to 1... he went to the 1.3 liter engine...and bought a redrive from a fellow in the mid west...Kansas? It is 2 to 1 also...Herb > > > > > At 10:22 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote: >> Herb, >> >> Stock engine. Stock ECU computer and stock throttle body injection. >> >> I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "turbo normalized" or "turbocharged". I've heard the expression, I just don't know what it means. But, since my engine is bone stock, this means I made no internal compression ratio changes....I didn't need to! >> >> Here's why; >> A stock ECU (electronic control unit) can handle air/fuel ratios and adjust timing for varying atmospheric conditions UP to 5 psi. You get varying atmospheric pressures by driving from Death Valley to Pike's Peak. This is a stock ECU parameter. You can also boost your engine with a turbo to 5 psi. No problem. >> But, I want just a tad more than 5 psi boost....say, around 8! I have made external mods to allow for increased fuel enrichment. >> According to the guys that build race motors for the Suzuki cars, stock compression of about 9.0 to 1 can handle 8 psi boost...no problem. Compression would need to be altered for around 14+ psi boost. These guys are like Suzuki race geeks, they eat, sleep, and breathe this hotrod crap. I'm going by what many of them have said. They're not shade tree mechanics, some of these guys do this for a living....and from all the reports from their customers I've read about their work, they know their "stuff"! >> >> Mike >> Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 20:57:52 -0600 >> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >> From: herbgh(at)nctc.com >> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb engines >> >> I was wondering if you were using the stock throttle body fuel system and std computer? >> >> Now I need to ask ..Turbo normalized or turbo charged? What did you drop the compression ratio down to to allow the boost if turbocharging......? Herb >> >> >> >> >> I have had the normally aspirated GEO engine and prop 100% finished, running and fully operational many years ago. The engine was bone stock, except for the redrive conversion, and some lightening mods. Just turn the key and fire it up!! >> >> Two years ago, I decided to install a turbocharger. I did quite a bit of research, talked to quite a few guys, and bought some stuff. I made my own turbo header, exhaust outlet, >> intercooler ducting, and in general, my OWN custom installation. >> The only "stock GEO" turbo part I used was the intercooler (from a Chevy Sprint Turbo car), he he he, which I proceeded to cut up and have rewelded to fit my needs! >> >> I joined the "Teamswift" chat group, the Suzuki cars high performance bunch, and found out one of the moderators has a machine shop. This guy comes HIGHLY recommended by everyone who has had their engine reworked by him. I had him regrind my stock "economy" camshaft to a somewhat more agressive "performance" cam profile. He also redrilled the cam gear, another highly recommended improvement. >> >> So, here's what I have now!! A stock internally, except for the mild race cam and gear, engine. Plus, my own turbocharger installation, which is now fully complete. I have an extensive set of gauges (in a panel that's finished, and ready for installation). The redrive and prop were untouched for any recent mods, so they remain operational. I'd need a few days to hook up the wiring harness, install the panel, double check everything, and fire it up. >> >> I don't claim anything until I see it for myself, but according to a few guys I've chatted with, my GEO engine "should" now be putting out around 95 to 100 HP, and maybe around 120 ftlb of torque. As I always say "we'll see!!" >> I should be able to get back to work on it sometime in January. >> >> I know. A little wordy, but you asked. I'm gabby, what can I say? >> >> Mike Welch >> MkIIICX >> >> >> Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:19:36 -0600 >> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com >> From: herbgh(at)nctc.com >> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax 912 Question >> >> Mike >> >> Which engine and are you running it stock? Herb ( with 5 geo engines...three and four cyl...) >> >> >> At 05:49 PM 12/16/2009, you wrote: >> John H, >> >> Yes, you are correct about the little bleed hole. But, if you stick the inline thermostat too far from the block, you're going to get a "certain" amount of cool down. >> How far is "too" far, and how much cool down? I'm not sure. But, since this is "experimental", I think a guy (or gal) would want to make certain their design worked as they planned. >> >> As an example of what I'm getting at; normally, when you start your car/truck/tractor, the engine warms and then eventually the warmth gets to the thermostat, opening it up. This is a fairly constant practice, and has been all worked out by the vehicle's maker. >> But let's say, for the sake of argument, you have to locate that thermostat 28" away from it's original mounting location. Then the question is (not "do you feel lucky?"); No, the question is; how long will that small bleed hole take to get very warm coolant to the thermostat?? Might be too long. Sure would be a pisser if it were. >> >> As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger, to allow for "extra" warm coolant flow, if we engineer a new system, we definitely want to make sure it works. >> >> Mike W >> >> >> >> >> >> >> lectric.com >> >> /">www.buildersbooks.com >> >> ebuilthelp.com >> >> ww.matronics.com/contribution >> >> ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List >> >> ronics.com >> >> >> Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up now. >> >> >> >> >> lectric.com >> /">www.buildersbooks.com >> ebuilthelp.com >> ww.matronics.com/contribution >> ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List >> ronics.com >> >> >> Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up now. > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Antenna Ground Plane
Date: Dec 17, 2009
From: "Kirby, Dennis Civ USAF AFMC AFNWC/EN" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil>
(Note - subject line changed to reflect the new direction of this thread.) "Richard Pike" wrote: <<... you want a ground plane that radiates out from the antenna and ties into the airframe, assuming the airframe is steel. >> Hi, Richard - I copied your idea for a radio antenna ground plane while I was bulding my Kolb ten years ago, using an aluminum sheet on the belly (below the fuel tanks), spanned between the two bottom longerons and covered over with fabric. My ground plane is grounded using a single wire attaching it to the common airframe ground, which ties into the gear leg and engine case. But my antenna ground plane does not touch the metal cage directly - there is fabric in between. I have never considered my radio reception as "outstanding." Acceptable, but not great. Could this be because the ground plane is not in direct contact with the frame? Do you think my antenna would be more effective if the ground plane (approx 24 inches diameter hexagon shaped) were touching the metal cage? Dennis Kirby Mark-3, 912ul Sandia Park, NM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Kolb engines
Date: Dec 17, 2009
Bob=2C Herb=2C Thom and group=2C Oh=2C THAT turbo-normalized! Ok=2C I read up on it. No=2C my engine is not turbo-normalized. Just the regular type turbo. I chose a Garrett GT15 44. This turbo is made especially for engines in the 1000cc to 1300cc rang e. It's kinda small=2C about the sized of a large coffee mug=2C maybe a li ttle bigger=2C but not much. Evidently lots of guys put these on motorcyc les. Yes=2C as Bob recommends=2C boost will likely be limited to T/O full powe r runs mostly. Regarding knock sensors=2C that's why I'm limiting boost to just 8 psi (by way of adjustable wastegate spring setting). I also have t he cam gear (redrill) modification. This will help with that. I did quite a bit of research before putting this thing together. I had lots of questions I wanted answered before I began to make my own turbo ins tallation. Questions like=3B how can I regulate the extra needed fuel when on boost? How will I monitor all the engine's internal functions=2C espec ially EGT and boost level and air/fuel ratio=2C and a host of other issues. I had to feel I could handle all these questions before I could embark on my own turbo. I feel I have comfortably answered all my questions=2C and have accomodated them sufficiently. Will it all work?? Can't say just yet. Will it be worth the effort and cost? I'm not sure. I know one thing=2C though. IF it works as planned=2C it ought to be a nic e package!! If it doesn't work as planned=2C well=2C we won't go there jus t yet..... I do want to point out one thing. I will be limiting boost to no more th an 8 psi. That is slightly more than 1/2 of 1 atmosphere (which is 14.7 ps i at sea level) 8 psi boost should increase performance about 50% above th e base engine's power. 8 psi boost is NOT a lot of boost. This would be c onsidered mild in automobile terms. All this boost stuff will be worked ou t on the ground....long before any flight testing is discussed!!! Youtube has dozens of those turbo geeks types that have installed monster turbos on GEO engines=2C putting out in excess of 150 HP( for an engine th at has a stock HP of 62!). I think I read a few guys have taken this engi ne to more than 200 HP. Not very wise for an airplane=2C though=2C but sur e makes for a screamer on the street. Pleasant day to all=2C Mike Welch From: slyck(at)frontiernet.net Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb engines Date: Thu=2C 17 Dec 2009 09:45:00 -0500 Herb=2C Mike is close=3B 2.26:1(Raven) Normally aspirated (no huffer) w ith a single barrel carb mine starts putting out decent power at 5300 rpm. The torque curve is quite broad with a peak at 3800 and HP top at 5500. Mi ke's reground camshaft should improve that for aircraft use. I feel Mike should limit boost to short duration climb and altitude normali zation. Just a little should add a good kick in the pants. I don't think they had knock sensors on the Metros or Sprints. It would be nice to have one a dyno to do some tweaking. BB On 16=2C Dec 2009=2C at 11:41 PM=2C Herb wrote: Surely hope that it works out to be a good and reliable engine... they have been very successful on trikes... more questions...what redrive ratio? and prop length and # blades... My e xperience with my buds Loehle 5151 tells me that the 3 cyl engine needs to be able to turn 5500 rpms to give good take off and climb performance equiv alent to the 582.. He had a 2 to 1 redrive ratio . Raven product.....I th ought it needed to be closer to 3 to 1... he went to the 1.3 liter engine.. .and bought a redrive from a fellow in the mid west...Kansas? It is 2 to 1 also...Herb At 10:22 PM 12/16/2009=2C you wrote: Herb=2C Stock engine. Stock ECU computer and stock throttle body injection. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "turbo normalized" or "turbocharged ". I've heard the expression=2C I just don't know what it means. But=2C since my engine is bone stock=2C this means I made no internal compression ratio changes....I didn't need to! Here's why=3B A stock ECU (electronic control unit) can handle air/fuel ratios and adju st timing for varying atmospheric conditions UP to 5 psi. You get varying atmospheric pressures by driving from Death Valley to Pike's Peak. This is a stock ECU parameter. You can also boost your engine with a turbo to 5 psi. No problem. But=2C I want just a tad more than 5 psi boost....say=2C around 8! I hav e made external mods to allow for increased fuel enrichment. According to the guys that build race motors for the Suzuki cars=2C stock compression of about 9.0 to 1 can handle 8 psi boost...no problem. Compr ession would need to be altered for around 14+ psi boost. These guys are l ike Suzuki race geeks=2C they eat=2C sleep=2C and breathe this hotrod crap. I'm going by what many of them have said. They're not shade tree mechani cs=2C some of these guys do this for a living....and from all the reports f rom their customers I've read about their work=2C they know their "stuff"! Mike Date: Wed=2C 16 Dec 2009 20:57:52 -0600 From: herbgh(at)nctc.com Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Kolb engines I was wondering if you were using the stock throttle body fuel system and s td computer? Now I need to ask ..Turbo normalized or turbo charged? What did you dro p the compression ratio down to to allow the boost if turbocharging......? Herb I have had the normally aspirated GEO engine and prop 100% finished=2C ru nning and fully operational many years ago. The engine was bone stock=2C e xcept for the redrive conversion=2C and some lightening mods. Just turn th e key and fire it up!! Two years ago=2C I decided to install a turbocharger. I did quite a bit of research=2C talked to quite a few guys=2C and bought some stuff. I made my own turbo header=2C exhaust outlet=2C intercooler ducting=2C and in general=2C my OWN custom installation. The only "stock GEO" turbo part I used was the intercooler (from a Chevy Sprint Turbo car)=2C he he he=2C which I proceeded to cut up and have rewel ded to fit my needs! I joined the "Teamswift" chat group=2C the Suzuki cars high performance b unch=2C and found out one of the moderators has a machine shop. This guy c omes HIGHLY recommended by everyone who has had their engine reworked by hi m. I had him regrind my stock "economy" camshaft to a somewhat more agress ive "performance" cam profile. He also redrilled the cam gear=2C another h ighly recommended improvement. So=2C here's what I have now!! A stock internally=2C except for the mild race cam and gear=2C engine. Plus=2C my own turbocharger installation=2C which is now fully complete. I have an extensive set of gauges (in a panel that's finished=2C and ready for installation). The redrive and prop were untouched for any recent mods=2C so they remain operational. I'd need a f ew days to hook up the wiring harness=2C install the panel=2C double check everything=2C and fire it up. I don't claim anything until I see it for myself=2C but according to a fe w guys I've chatted with=2C my GEO engine "should" now be putting out aroun d 95 to 100 HP=2C and maybe around 120 ftlb of torque. As I always say "we 'll see!!" I should be able to get back to work on it sometime in January. I know. A little wordy=2C but you asked. I'm gabby=2C what can I say? Mike Welch MkIIICX Date: Wed=2C 16 Dec 2009 18:19:36 -0600 From: herbgh(at)nctc.com Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax 912 Question Mike Which engine and are you running it stock? Herb ( with 5 geo engines...t hree and four cyl...) At 05:49 PM 12/16/2009=2C you wrote: John H=2C Yes=2C you are correct about the little bleed hole. But=2C if you stick the inline thermostat too far from the block=2C you're going to get a "cert ain" amount of cool down. How far is "too" far=2C and how much cool down? I'm not sure. But=2C si nce this is "experimental"=2C I think a guy (or gal) would want to make cer tain their design worked as they planned. As an example of what I'm getting at=3B normally=2C when you start your car/truck/tractor=2C the engine warms and then eventually the warmth gets t o the thermostat=2C opening it up. This is a fairly constant practice=2C a nd has been all worked out by the vehicle's maker. But let's say=2C for the sake of argument=2C you have to locate that ther mostat 28" away from it's original mounting location. Then the question is (not "do you feel lucky?")=3B No=2C the question is=3B how long will that small bleed hole take to get very warm coolant to the thermostat?? Might b e too long. Sure would be a pisser if it were. As someone suggested about making the bleed hole larger=2C to allow for " extra" warm coolant flow=2C if we engineer a new system=2C we definitely wa nt to make sure it works. Mike W lectric.com /">www.buildersbooks.com ebuilthelp.com ww.matronics.com/contribution ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List ronics.com Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up no w. lectric.com /">www.buildersbooks.com ebuilthelp.com ww.matronics.com/contribution ttp://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List ronics.com Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge85/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up no w. 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= 3D _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: Rotax 912 Question
Date: Dec 17, 2009
Boyd, Does that mean you dont need a shut off to the main radiator when you want heat? Would you get more heat or restrict normal coolant flow too much? Vic >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.. That is correct, I do not have a shut off in line with the main radiator. The radiator and the heater core are plumed in parallel they both get the same differential pressure all the time. In winter when I want heat I have to tape up the main radiator in order to keep the temps higher, when I started this project I looked for an in line thermostat at snowmobile shops, motorcycle shops, auto parts store, LEAF, I had no luck finding one. That is when Leading Edge Air Foil told me that there was no specific need to have a minimum water temp. Thus no thermostat from rotax. The BMW thermostat, 18.95. may be a perfect answer. I would have a higher flow through the heater core this would keep enough flow to reduce pressure build up from the pump, bring the heat quickly to the thermostat, and the thermostat would replace the need for tape. Just thinking out loud.. If you created a bypass from the extra opening in the BMW thermostat back to the outlet side of the radiator, I am thinking you would want something to restrict the flow so when the thermostat opened the flow would be through the radiator and not the bypass. Maybe a spring loaded check valve. Or in my case the heater core. Questions: Would the thermostat create too much restriction in an otherwise open circuit? do we know that the sizes are on the three openings in the bmw thermostat? Boyd Young MKIII ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Antenna Ground Plane
Date: Dec 17, 2009
Dennis/Gang: Poor reception is usually caused by excessive RMI and EMI interference. I don't think the ground increases reception performance of the radio, only the transmit side. john h - 5 months until MV and counting. mkIII I have never considered my radio reception as "outstanding." Acceptable, but not great. Could this be because the ground plane is not in direct contact with the frame? Do you think my antenna would be more effective if the ground plane (approx 24 inches diameter hexagon shaped) were touching the metal cage? Dennis Kirby ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "The Kuffels" <kuffel(at)cyberport.net>
Subject: Re: Antenna Ground Plane
Date: Dec 17, 2009
Dennis, << I have never considered my radio reception as "outstanding." Acceptable, but not great. Could this be because the ground plane is not in direct contact with the frame? Do you think my antenna would be more effective if the ground plane (approx 24 inches diameter hexagon shaped) were touching the metal cage? >> Short answer, probably yes. There are basically two types of ground planes: Untuned = Infinity (or as close to it as one can manage) and Tuned = 1/4 wavelength in *radius*. For aircraft com frequencies this would be a radius of about 22 inches or a diameter of 44 inches. Thus converting your badly tuned 1/8 wavelength ground plane into an "untuned" type by grounding it to the airframe should improve your performance. The bonding between the ground plane sheet and the airframe should be a much as possible, not just a single point or two. In addition, John Hauck's statement << I don't think the ground increases reception performance of the radio, only the transmit side. >> is contrary to accepted electronics theory. The rule is an antenna works exactly the same for transmit or receive except for the effects of heating and high voltage associated with very high power transmissions. For aircraft applications these effects are undetectable. Tom Kuffel ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Antenna Ground Plane
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Date: Dec 17, 2009
[quote="Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland."](Note subject line changed to reflect the new direction of this thread.) "Richard Pike" wrote: Hi, Richard I copied your idea for a radio antenna ground plane while I was bulding my Kolb ten years ago, using an aluminum sheet on the belly (below the fuel tanks), spanned between the two bottom longerons and covered over with fabric. My ground plane is grounded using a single wire attaching it to the common airframe ground, which ties into the gear leg and engine case. But my antenna ground plane does not touch the metal cage directly there is fabric in between. I have never considered my radio reception as outstanding. Acceptable, but not great. Could this be because the ground plane is not in direct contact with the frame? Do you think my antenna would be more effective if the ground plane (approx 24 inches diameter hexagon shaped) were touching the metal cage? Dennis Kirby Mark-3, 912ul Sandia Park, NM > [b] Hi Dennis, I got my info from this page - http://www.biplaneforum.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1882 Don't know if the guy knows what he is talking about or not, but since he is in the business of selling antennas, I decided he probably knows more than I do - anyway, this is what he said on the page: "The steel tube structure can be used as a ground plane but to work properly the antenna ground must be tied electrically into the tubing. Remember, a ground plane at these frequencies should be about 48 inches in diameter at least to work properly. Larger is better. An antenna mounted to a smaller plate and the plate then attached to the tubing will be OK but the plate must be electrically attached to the tubing and I do not mean with a ground wire. Ideally the ground currents should go into the ground plane in a radial manner in several places but do the best you can. If the antenna ground is not done properly the VSWR of the antenna can be very high." So the skinny little tube had the paint ground off it from moving it around the garage, I stretched the two strip of aluminum across it to for a six sided spoke arrangement, and riveted the crossing strips to the longerons. So it ought to be tied in all around, and if it doesn't work right I can always try and persuade Ed that he doesn't really need a transponder in a FSII anyway... not to mention that we don't know yet if the transponder still works after the crash. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278012#278012 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 17, 2009
Subject: Re: Antenna Ground Plane
From: Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com>
Dennis, Tom, Actually, probably not. RF grounding and electrical grounding are common in name only. Another of the great hangar myths teaches that tying every piece of metal in the airplane together electrically helps radi o performance. It doesn't matter, what does is metal in the transmission path . What you might want to investigate is antenna location and orientation, and making sure you don't have a ground loop in the antenna feed line (groundin g the coax at both ends). Rick On Thu, Dec 17, 2009 at 4:40 PM, The Kuffels wrote: > Dennis, > > << I have never considered my radio reception as =93outstanding.=94 > Acceptable, but not great. Could this be because the ground plane is not in > direct contact with the frame? Do you think my antenna would be more > effective if the ground plane (approx 24 inches diameter hexagon shaped) > were touching the metal cage? >> > > Short answer, probably yes. There are basically two types of ground > planes: Untuned = Infinity (or as close to it as one can manage) and Tu ned > 1/4 wavelength in *radius*. For aircraft com frequencies this would be a > radius of about 22 inches or a diameter of 44 inches. Thus converting yo ur > badly tuned 1/8 wavelength ground plane into an "untuned" type by groundi ng > it to the airframe should improve your performance. The bonding between the > ground plane sheet and the airframe should be a much as possible, not jus t a > single point or two. > > In addition, John Hauck's statement > > << I don't think the ground increases reception performance of the radio, > only the transmit side. >> > > is contrary to accepted electronics theory. The rule is an antenna works > exactly the same for transmit or receive except for the effects of heatin g > and high voltage associated with very high power transmissions. For > aircraft applications these effects are undetectable. > > Tom Kuffel > > > * > =========== =========== =========== =========== > * > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Frapper ( gone )
From: "planecrazzzy" <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 18, 2009
Hi Tom, Do you want to "covert" the map you have to an "All Kolb" map ? I asked Matt about a Map on each "list"... I'm not sure if he can do it... He's looking into it... . . If not... The guy running the old Frapper Map should be setting up another map.... Here's a look at the Tailwind Map I set up... The planes and other things all have pin colors to separate them. We've got guys in Canada ,Europe and Australia http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&oe=UTF8&msa=0&msid=116419287136270815533.00047ab503169125e082c . . . Gotta Fly... Mike & "Jaz" in MN . . . Thom Riddle wrote: > I finally figured out how to create a google map with pins. I made one with all the Slingshots in the FAA registration database. I also finally figured out how to get a link directly to that map. It follows for anyone who is interested. > > http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=114767234655221336249.000477e31ae47f709303d&z=5 > > or is as a tinyurl > > http://tinyurl.com/y9dw6rq -------- . . . . Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278095#278095 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 18, 2009
From: George Bearden <gab16(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 12/17/09
> I don't think they had knock sensors > on the Metros or Sprints. Wonder if a simple band-pass filter triggering a red LED on the dash would work. You'd have to fool with it to get the right frequency passed. Might work, might not. You might be able to use sound software and fool with the frequency analysis via a laptop. Or make a quality recording... naw... might lose to much high frequency. > As I learn the innermost secrets of the > people around me, they reward me > in many ways to keep me quiet. Aren't you afraid they'll let a contract on you? Sheesh! That would be my knee-jerk reaction! :-) > X Planes would probably be your best choice. I haven't used x-plane. Some folks who do have told me that MS FS is easier. You could search around and see if anyone has created a Kolb for that sim. But it might not be any good. some sites have user ratings of each plane. > There was an article in either Kitplanes, Sport Pilot, or the other EAA rag about a thrust measuring device. There are some folks that have them. I know one EAA chapter has one built into their engine stand. I have a pic of it with a corvair on there. Think they use a hydraulic cylinder (from a jack?) to resist the pressure generated by the prop. The pressure within the cylinder is displayed on a pressure gage. Or it might measure torque, not sure. With a lil work you could add another such cylinder to resist the twisting moment of the engine on the stand, thus acquiring a torque number. Note the rpm and you can have a hp number too. With some transducers and a single-board computer you could automate the data acquisition during a run, at different rpm. If you designed a universal ignition system tied in to the CPU, you could also vary the timing throughout a run and generate an ignition curve/torque. of course you could leave the computer out and do everything manually and generate the same set of numbers. If you build it can I borrow it? > I was wondering if you were using the stock throttle body fuel system and std computer? I am thinking about using one of my Geo throttle bodies for my generac. Not sure what ECU I would use, there are several possibilities. > you want a ground plane that radiates out from the antenna While this is probably a great idea and makes an efficient antenna, there also exist designs that require no ground plane. > he went to the 1.3 liter engine.. I ahve worked with the 1.3 liter in my Samurai rather extensively over the past 13 years. It puts out heaps more power and low-end torque than stock. It has enough to be fun to play with off-road. I sometimes beat much bigger machines up the dunes. > making sure you don't have a ground loop in the antenna feed line (grounding the coax at both ends). Hmmmm... Isn't the coax grounded inside the transmitter? If so then does this mean we shouldn't ground the ground plane to the frame? I know nuthin of this sorta thang. GeoB ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Kolb Mark II for sale
From: "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 19, 2009
I found out I am expecting. With that great joy (everyone bursts into laughter when I tell them since my only child is 16 already) [Laughing] also comes great sorrow in selling my Kolb. [Crying or Very sad] My time and resources will be limited. The ad is on barnstormers today. -------- Cristal Waters Kolb Mark II Twinstar Rotax 503 DCSI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278143#278143 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2009
From: "Ron @ KFHU" <captainron1(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Have moved to Tucson, AZ
There used to be an Ultralight strip just west of Tucson, and if I recall correctly there was a Kolb there among others. I can ask around for their address if you have not found it yet. Ron @ KFHU (Sierra Vista) ============================ ---- timwarlick(at)mchsi.com wrote: ============ All, I have not posted for awhile but do monitor the Kolb list as time permits. I have moved my Kolb Mark 3 Classic (BMW powered) from Mobile, AL to Tucson, AZ due to a job change. Had no problem after following suggestions from the list on how to pack into a 26 foot Penske truck. I did have problems transporting my BMW powered, 3 wheeled vehicle but that is another story. I have attached 2 pictures. I have the airplane wings reattached and am storing it in an RV storage building in Green Valley, AZ. In spite of all the open (desert) area where I am living in the Green Valley - Sahuarita area (15 miles south of Tucson), I am having problems finding a place to keep and fly my airplane without going to a large General Aviation airport about 45 mintues away (south west of Tucson). I found two perfect paved airstrips (Continental in Green Valley, and another one about 10 minutes south on I19) but both are closed with no possibility of using again. I also found a private strip with homes around it about 30 minutes west of me and am trying to see if one of the homeowners will let me share space in their hanger. Anyone have any experience with renting landing rights from a land owner and putting up a small hanger? Are there zoning issues that the county or state may have? Any suggestion would be helpful as I am anxious to get flying again. Tim Warlick BMW powered Kolb mark 3 Classic -- kugelair.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 19, 2009
From: "Ron @ KFHU" <captainron1(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Have moved to Tucson, AZ
Leroy is way out there to the East. I have flown there several times in my Beech, nice strip but at least 70 miles East of Tucson ime (in my estimate). Ron @ KFHU ---------------------------- ---- fs2kolb(at)aol.com wrote: ============ http://www.leroyaviation.com/ -----Original Message----- From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> Sent: Sat, Dec 5, 2009 9:15 am Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Have moved to Tucson, AZ Any suggestion would be helpful as I am anxious to get flying again. Tim Warlick BMW powered Kolb mark 3 Classic Tim, Your situation is somewhat similar to what we faced, when I lived in north Idaho (Coeur D' Alene). One of our members, Larry Ballard, of the "North Idaho Ultralight Association" ended up buying a 20 acre parcel about 30 minutes out of town. A diferent member, Frank Reed, used his road grader (which I later purchased) to cut in two crossing runways. To keep his U/L always ready to just jump in and go flying, he had a simple pole barn type hangar built. My suggestion, depending on a whole lot of things in your area I'm not very familiar with, is to buy your own vacant land, cut and runway in and erect a hangar, and look for a few other guy in the area to share some costs with. With real estate prices as low as they've dropped in the last couple of years, this may be a fairly cost effective way to have your own runway. Mike Welch MkIII Get gifts for them and cashback for you. Try Bing now. =================================== - -= -- Please Support Your Lists This Month -- -= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!) - -= November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Click on -= the Contribution link below to find out more about -= this year's Terrific Free Incentive Gifts provided -= by: -= * AeroElectric www.aeroelectric.com -= * The Builder's Bookstore www.buildersbooks.com -= * HomebuiltHELP www.homebuilthelp.com - -= List Contribution Web Site: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution - -= Thank you for your generous support! - -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. - -=========================================================== -= - The Kolb-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List - -=========================================================== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! - -= --> http://forums.matronics.com - -=========================================================== -- kugelair.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Have moved to Tucson, AZ
From: "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Dec 19, 2009
Tim, H.L. Cooper's phone number is 520-682-7504. His business is called Arizona Ultralights in the phone book. I fly out of Ryan airfield just north of you. There are hangers there and it is ultralight friendly. there are other ultralights there. Your main choices in this area is H.L. ( shade hanger, Ryan or Marana. Marana is a long drive for you. Even H.L.'s is a long drive. Ryan is by far the closest. -------- Roger Lee Tucson, Az. Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated Rotax Repair Center 520-574-1080 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278180#278180 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Card Compass Question
From: "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)hughes.net>
Date: Dec 19, 2009
I am laying out my instrument panel and would like to Put the card compass in the upper most area of the panel. I know to keep all wiring and anything electrical as far away as possible from the compass or the reading will be affected. That's the reason you normally see them hanging in a hodge podge manner most anywhere. The only thing I see so far that interferes with the compass is the RPM gauge and that is easily eliminated by distance. My question is, does anyone know of any shielding methods thats good to use other that just distance. Aluminum plate shielding does nothing. Thanks Rick Lewis Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278201#278201 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Rotax 912 Question
From: "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)hughes.net>
Date: Dec 19, 2009
Thanks everybody for all the replys. I've got a lot good information to run with. Rick Lewis Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278203#278203 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Card Compass Question
From: robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net>
Date: Dec 19, 2009
I had a plane that suddenly became magnetized and messed up the compass. A fellow from the lab where I worked gave me a piece of thin shiny metal that looked like stainless and I put it under the compass base. He had a name for it but that was a long time ago. BB On 19, Dec 2009, at 9:30 PM, Rick Lewis wrote: > > I am laying out my instrument panel and would like to Put the card compass in the upper most area of the panel. I know to keep all wiring and anything electrical as far away as possible from the compass or the reading will be affected. That's the reason you normally see them hanging in a hodge podge manner most anywhere. The only thing I see so far that interferes with the compass is the RPM gauge and that is easily eliminated by distance. > > My question is, does anyone know of any shielding methods thats good to use other that just distance. Aluminum plate shielding does nothing. > > Thanks > > Rick Lewis > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278201#278201 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Card Compass Question
Date: Dec 19, 2009
>> I am laying out my instrument panel and would like to Put the card compass in the upper most area of the panel. >> >> Rick Lewis Rick L/Gang: Good luck on your mag compass installation. I have never been able to get a good location for my mag compass in my mkIII. Swinging the compass does not help. Too much magnetic interference to make it reliable. My Firestar, the mag compass worked perfectly. I could swing it to within a couple degrees in all quadrants. It had to work because if was my primary means of navigation with my sectional. Did a lot of extended cross country flights in the Firestar. Only reason I have a mag compass in the mkIII is because there is a requirement to have one installed. I can use it for back up to maintain a heading, but probably will not know what the correct heading is to within 30 to 45 degrees. However, it will keep me from flying in circles and get me to a major highway, railroad, power transmission line, river, or something, to follow to a town or village, and eventually, to an airport or some place to land in a field or road near civilization. john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Kolb Mark II for sale
From: "rayw" <rmwis@wi-net.com>
Date: Dec 20, 2009
Cristal, Congratulations!!!! Ray W. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278218#278218 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Kolb Mark II for sale
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Date: Dec 20, 2009
Congratulations Crystal, and I agree with Rick. Don't take any less than your asking price unless you really need the money, or really would like to roll your own in a few years. Otherwise put it in storage. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278221#278221 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 20, 2009
From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Card Compass Question
At 09:30 PM 12/19/2009, Rick Lewis wrote: >...The only thing I see so far that interferes with the compass is the RPM >gauge and that is easily eliminated by distance. > > My question is, does anyone know of any shielding methods thats good > to use other that just distance. Aluminum plate shielding does nothing. Rick, aluminum will do nothing because it's not magnetic. You can't actually shield a magnetic field, but you can reroute it to some extent. Try <http://www.lessemf.com/mag-shld.html>. -Dana -- Why doesn't the fattest man in the world become a hockey goalie? ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Card Compass Question
From: loseyf(at)comcast.net
Date: Dec 20, 2009
Bob, In electronics, mu-metal is an excellent shielding material. If I recall it is mostly nickel, some iron. I suspect this is what you were given. Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 22:44:56 Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Card Compass Question I had a plane that suddenly became magnetized and messed up the compass. A fellow from the lab where I worked gave me a piece of thin shiny metal that looked like stainless and I put it under the compass base. He had a name for it but that was a long time ago. BB On 19, Dec 2009, at 9:30 PM, Rick Lewis wrote: > > I am laying out my instrument panel and would like to Put the card compass in the upper most area of the panel. I know to keep all wiring and anything electrical as far away as possible from the compass or the reading will be affected. That's the reason you normally see them hanging in a hodge podge manner most anywhere. The only thing I see so far that interferes with the compass is the RPM gauge and that is easily eliminated by distance. > > My question is, does anyone know of any shielding methods thats good to use other that just distance. Aluminum plate shielding does nothing. > > Thanks > > Rick Lewis > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278201#278201 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Card Compass Question
From: loseyf(at)comcast.net
Date: Dec 20, 2009
If I were trying to determine what effect the airframe is having, I would establish a directional heading reference outside the aircraft, then place the compass in the aircraft, maintaining the outside reference. With all power off, is there a difference? There may not be much you can do with respect to this except try to find a point of lowest interference. The thing to keep in mind with magnetic coupling is that the inverse square law applies. What I mean by this is if structure is the issue, the magnetic effect will decrease by the inverse square root with distance. For example, if I have a known gauss level (hypothetically and for simplicity) of say 16 at 1" from a source of magnetic flux, the level would be 4 at 2", 2 at 4", etc. Keeping it simple, take the square root of the flux value for every doubling of distance. Again theoretically. If the compass does not swing "significantly" when all power is off, turn items on one at a time. Can you identify the source? Shielding can help in some cases, but it can be tricky. My 2 cents. Happy Holidays everyone! Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: loseyf(at)comcast.net Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2009 14:18:31 Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Card Compass Question Bob, In electronics, mu-metal is an excellent shielding material. If I recall it is mostly nickel, some iron. I suspect this is what you were given. Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry -----Original Message----- From: robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2009 22:44:56 Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Card Compass Question I had a plane that suddenly became magnetized and messed up the compass. A fellow from the lab where I worked gave me a piece of thin shiny metal that looked like stainless and I put it under the compass base. He had a name for it but that was a long time ago. BB On 19, Dec 2009, at 9:30 PM, Rick Lewis wrote: > > I am laying out my instrument panel and would like to Put the card compass in the upper most area of the panel. I know to keep all wiring and anything electrical as far away as possible from the compass or the reading will be affected. That's the reason you normally see them hanging in a hodge podge manner most anywhere. The only thing I see so far that interferes with the compass is the RPM gauge and that is easily eliminated by distance. > > My question is, does anyone know of any shielding methods thats good to use other that just distance. Aluminum plate shielding does nothing. > > Thanks > > Rick Lewis > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278201#278201 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Longo" <tclongo(at)att.net>
Subject: Card Compass Question
Date: Dec 20, 2009
My compass was way off and I tried few different ones and they were all off about the same. My compass was mounted on the left side of dash in a MKIII Classic. I used a degaussing coil made for removing magnetism from TV picture tubes and degaussed the frame around the dash area and the compass was perfect after that. I own a electronics repair shop and the local car dealer has sent me a few cars over the years that had electronic compasses that were too far out of range to compensate and I would degauss the hood and metal around windshield and roof and this would take care of compass problems. So borrow a coil or buy one from supply company and try it you will be surprised it works. Tom -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dana Hague Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2009 8:06 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Card Compass Question At 09:30 PM 12/19/2009, Rick Lewis wrote: ...The only thing I see so far that interferes with the compass is the RPM gauge and that is easily eliminated by distance. My question is, does anyone know of any shielding methods thats good to use other that just distance. Aluminum plate shielding does nothing. Rick, aluminum will do nothing because it's not magnetic. You can't actually shield a magnetic field, but you can reroute it to some extent. Try < http://www.lessemf.com/mag-shld.html>. -Dana -- Why doesn't the fattest man in the world become a hockey goalie? <http://www.buildersbooks.com> <http://www.homebuilthelp.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Card Compass Question
Date: Dec 20, 2009
Tom/Gang: Where are you located? I'll swing by your place and let you degauss my compass. ;-) Would be nice to have a mag compass that performed accurately and reliably. john h mkIII I used a degaussing coil made for removing magnetism from TV picture tubes and degaussed the frame around the dash area and the compass was perfect after that. Tom ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb Mark II for sale
Date: Dec 20, 2009
I found out I am expecting.>> Congratulations. Hang on to the Kolb. You will need it again in no time Cheers and Merry Christmas Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Longo" <tclongo(at)att.net>
Subject: Card Compass Question
Date: Dec 20, 2009
Hi John, that will be great I will go out and stop traffic on SR50 in Brooksville, FL in front of my shop so you can land but your on your own clearing wires across the road. LOL, Tom -----Original Message----- From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Hauck Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2009 10:14 AM Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Card Compass Question Tom/Gang: Where are you located? I'll swing by your place and let you degauss my compass. ;-) Would be nice to have a mag compass that performed accurately and reliably. john h mkIII I used a degaussing coil made for removing magnetism from TV picture tubes and degaussed the frame around the dash area and the compass was perfect after that. Tom <http://www.buildersbooks.com> <http://www.homebuilthelp.com> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net>
Subject: compass
Date: Dec 20, 2009
If you cant find a place on the instrument panel that is not affected. Try a compass that mounts to the windshield. Aircraft spruce p/n NV-2A, page 404 in the 2008~2009 catalog. Or you could build a mount for the compass you have. Boyd Young Kolb MkIII C 620+ hours and counting Brigham City Utah. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Card Compass Question
From: "racerjerry" <gki(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Date: Dec 20, 2009
Wet compass problem? Check your fuselage over using a camping/Boy Scout handheld compass, especially in the vicinity of your proposed mounting point for the wet compass. Electrical welding often leaves traces of magnetism behind. If you find an area that strongly deflects the compass needle (much more than the needles normal attraction to anything steel), locate an OLD TV repair guy and see if you can borrow his degaussing coil (obsolete technology for very old color TV sets). If you energize the coil with AC current (energize away from the steel), bring the coil close and slowly move the coil in circles around the affected area, and then slowly move the coil away; most of the steel atoms will re-arrange their polarity into their normal random order. This should reduce or eliminate any problem with residual magnetism. Dont leave the coil energized too long or it will overheat and self-destruct. WARNING When degaussing, keep your wallet, watches, charge cards, CDs, computers, tapes or any other magnetic storage media far, far away. Also, remove all radios and aircraft instruments beforehand. I would also remove any ball bearings in the vicinity. If you want more fun, make your own degaussing coil Google Make Degaussing Coil for specifics. Drive a few finishing nails leaning slightly outward in a 10 inch circle on a piece of plywood You will probably want to limit the current flow through your coil using light bulb(s) in series with your coil. If you arrange a few bulb sockets in parallel and connect that network in series with your coil, you can adjust the coil current for acceptable heat. Tape the coil (flat) onto a short stick. Use only in DRY weather, in good shoes, with one hand behind you back and try to avoid electrocution. Hey, flying is a dangerous sport too! Seriously, always power your coil setup through a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter protected circuit, You can buy a plug-in GFCI for use at the airport or better, make your own extension cord by mounting a normal GFCI into a steel electrical box along with a heavy 3-wire appliance cord and use it for ALL your power tools. This setup wont protect if you are dumb enough to put your fingers across hot and neutral, but works extremely well if you touch something electrically hot and your body happens to be even slightly grounded (through dampness or touching grounded metal) or are using that old metal housing portable electric drill you found in the trash with frayed insulation and with the grounding prong clipped off. KOLB Flyers Did you get the message? Make the darned GFCI extension cord whether you need a degaussing coil or not. We are having too much fun. It could save your life. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278264#278264 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Kolb Mark II for sale
From: "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com>
Date: Dec 20, 2009
Cristal...Congrats on the new one ! ........however....seriously consider putting it away for a while...fold it up,cover it up pickle the engine a wait a while.....easy for me to say huh....lol Good luck on what ever you do ! chris ambrose M3X/Jab 86.0 hrs + N327CS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278276#278276 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 20, 2009
From: jerb <ulflyer(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Was Kolb Mark II for sale - Names Suggestions Needed
Congratulations Cristal. Ok folks, We need some names here. Not sure if it's a boy or a girl. Must be aviation orientated. Can't be like Stick, Aileron, or Rudder, those are already taken by our dogs. More like Blue Sky, etc. Just might be fun to see what we can come up with while trying to stay warm over the Christmas, New year holidays. If nothing else we might use them for naming our airplanes. jerb ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Was Kolb Mark II for sale - Names Suggestions Needed
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Date: Dec 20, 2009
ulflyer(at)verizon.net wrote: > Congratulations Cristal. > > Ok folks, > > We need some names here. Not sure if it's a boy or a girl. Must be > aviation orientated. Can't be like Stick, Aileron, or Rudder, those > are already taken by our dogs. More like Blue Sky, etc. > jerb "More like Blue Sky, etc?" Wow, dude, let me get out my bell bottoms and incense... Hmmm, let's see... "Rainbow Rib Stitch" "Moonbeam Mark Three" "Tailwind Teresa" "Little Ivo" Are your really sure this is a good idea? Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278323#278323 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Card Compass Question
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Date: Dec 20, 2009
A degaussing coil works wonders, the airplane I had prior to the MKIII was a magnetic nightmare, but easily fixed by using a bulk VCR or cassette eraser. An old A&P told me how. Right now on ebay there are several degaussers, search "Realistic tape eraser" and the prices are starting at under $5. I had gas welded the fuselage of the J-6, and each cluster joint was highly magnetized. Don't know why that is, but it happens. Do like racer Jerry says, (heed his warnings too) start several feet away, turn the degausser on and then move it in a spiraling arc to the cluster joint - don't touch the steel, when it gets close, it will magnetically try to suck itself close to the airframe, a piece of cardboard or anything to keep a little space is good. Keep the degausser moving, and then spiral back out going in the opposite direction until you are several feet away before turning it off. Check your work with any hand held compass and redo any cluster joints that didn't behave the first time. You ought to be able to get rid of 90% of your aggravation. At least that was my experience. Richard Pike MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278324#278324 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 21, 2009
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Subject: 2009 List of Contributors
Dear Listers, The 2009 Matronics Email List and Forum Fund Raiser officially ended a couple of weeks ago and its time that I publish this year's List of Contributors. Its the people on this list that directly make the Email Lists and Forums possible. Their generous contributions keep the servers and Internet connection up and running. You can still show your support this year and pick up a great gift at the same time. The Contribution Web Site is fast, easy, and secure: http://www.matronics.com/contribution I also want to thank Bob, Jon, Andy, and John for their generous support through the supply of great gifts this year!! These guys have some great products and I encourage you to visit their respective web sites: Bob Nucklolls - AeroElectric - www.aeroelectric.com Jon Croke - HomebuiltHELP - www.homebuilthelp.com Andy Gold - The Builder's Bookstore - www.buildersbooks.com John Caldwell - HowToCrimp - www.howtocrimp.com And finally, I'm proud to present The 2009 Fund Raiser List of Contributors: http://www.matronics.com/loc/2009.html Thanks again to everyone that made a Contribution this year!! Matt Dralle Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "pj.ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Card Compass Question
Date: Dec 21, 2009
Wet compass problem? just don`t put your Coors carrier next to the compass. Cheers Pat ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 21, 2009
From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Card Compass Question
At 07:16 AM 12/21/2009, pj.ladd wrote: >Wet compass problem? > >just don`t put your Coors carrier next to the compass. No, after all, it's a WHISKY compass! :) -Dana -- PADDLE FASTER!! I hear banjo music!! ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Card Compass Question
From: "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)hughes.net>
Date: Dec 21, 2009
I want to thank everyone for there replies. I'm very familiar with the degaussing coil, but never would have thought of even trying it on an airframe. I will probably get one even though the cheapest one cost around $30.00. I just hope it puts out enough of a field to work. After I done with it I would be glad to loan it out if anyone's interested. Parcel post shipping would only be around $6.00 each way. I checked the difference in readings from outside the cage to inside and it was a 100 degree difference. Rick Lewis Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278413#278413 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Was Kolb Mark II for sale - Names Suggestions Needed
From: "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 21, 2009
ulflyer(at)verizon.net wrote: > Congratulations Cristal. > > Ok folks, > > We need some names here. Not sure if it's a boy or a girl. Must be > aviation orientated. Can't be like Stick, Aileron, or Rudder, those > are already taken by our dogs. More like Blue Sky, etc. Just might > be fun to see what we can come up with while trying to stay warm over > the Christmas, New year holidays. If nothing else we might use them > for naming our airplanes. > jerb Funny jerb! Most everyone is of the opinion I am going to have a girl, but they could be biased since I already have a boy. We already have two Misty Waters in the family, so that name is out. -------- Cristal Waters Kolb Mark II Twinstar Rotax 503 DCSI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278416#278416 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Kolb Mark II for sale
From: "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 21, 2009
I added to my ad that I only wanted to sell to US buyers (I hope that is ok and legal). I got some emails from someone in Costa Rica, but I don't want to de-register my plane. It took too much work to get that US registration and airworthiness. Know what I mean? -------- Cristal Waters Kolb Mark II Twinstar Rotax 503 DCSI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278435#278435 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Kolb Mark II for sale
From: "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com>
Date: Dec 21, 2009
Richard Pike wrote: > Congratulations Crystal, and I agree with Rick. Don't take any less than your asking price unless you really need the money, or really would like to roll your own in a few years. Otherwise put it in storage. > > Richard Pike > MKIII N420P (420ldPoops) Well I am still paying on the plane. I had to take out extra to get the plane and then fix it up for airworthiness when I got it. If I had somewhere to store it I would consider keeping it. I just pray about it and leave it in God's hands. Haven't had any real nibbles so far. -------- Cristal Waters Kolb Mark II Twinstar Rotax 503 DCSI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=278439#278439 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Card Compass Question
Date: Dec 21, 2009
cheapest one cost around $30.00. > > Rick Lewis Rick L/Gang: As Richard Pike suggested, Ebay has a couple dozen Realistic High Power Video/Tape Erasers, for 10.00 or less. http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_kw=Realistic&_kw=Tape&_kw=Eraser&_ckw=Audio If it works for you, I will probably try it on my mkIII. Wonder if it will damage engine instruments? Anybody know? john h mkIII ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Dec 21, 2009
From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Was Kolb Mark II for sale - Names Suggestions Needed
At 08:52 AM 12/21/2009, cristalclear13 wrote: >Funny jerb! Most everyone is of the opinion I am going to have a girl, >but they could be biased since I already have a boy. > >We already have two Misty Waters in the family, so that name is out. Well, if it's a boy there's always "Homer"... could be another great airplane designer... -Dana -- The citizens of the United States are getting the government they deserve. The problem is that I'm also getting the government they deserve. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Card Compass Question
Date: Dec 21, 2009
> If it works for you=2C I will probably try it on my mkIII. Wonder if it w ill > damage engine instruments? Anybody know? > > john h > mkIII John=2C all others=2C Yes=2C as the following formula shows=2C it will affect your ionization c alibration gauge=2C especially if placed between=2C or right next to the ph oton mass emitter=3B >From the basic k-space formula=2C it follows immediately that we reconstruc t an image simply by taking the inverse Fourier transform of the sampled d ata=2C viz. Mike Welch MkIII CX _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Card Compass Question
Date: Dec 21, 2009
Wow! Thanks for the info. Where do I get the numbers to plug into the formula? Anybody else got a simple explanation to answer my question, "Will the degausser damage my electric engine instruments?" john h - Getting ready to exercise my right to flight, this afternoon. mkIII Yes, as the following formula shows, it will affect your ionization calibration gauge, especially if placed between, or right next to the photon mass emitter; From the basic k-space formula, it follows immediately that we reconstruct an image simply by taking the inverse Fourier transform of the sampled data, viz. Mike Welch ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Card Compass Question
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
Date: Dec 21, 2009

December 03, 2009 - December 21, 2009

Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-jb