Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-jd
January 13, 2010 - January 31, 2010
| From: | NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: 582 fuel system |
Mike
Yes the system is true "series" design.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Welch
Sent: Wednesday=2C January 13=2C 2010 4:29 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: 582 fuel system
Rick N.=2C
The design of your system sounds like I was asking about. Your ability t
o verify each pump=2C prior to each flight=2C is the kind of assure I was w
ondering about. It appears as though you have everything covered.
But=2C Rick=2C is your fuel delivery a true "series" design?
Mike Welch
From: NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: 582 fuel system
Date: Wed=2C 13 Jan 2010 15:12:13 -0500
Mike
Your system sounds great and should work well but I like to keep things sim
ple.
My fuel system requires a electric fuel pump. I have two electric pumps in
series=2C one is driven by the ignition circuit. The secondary pump by sepa
rate switched circuit. My starting routine is prime the fuel system using t
he back up pump. I watch the fuel flow through a short piece of transparent
fuel line till the float bowls are full. I then turn off the secondary sys
tem and start the engine. I can see fuel flow and hear the faucet pump runn
ing when I turn on the back up pump. I know the back up pump test works bec
ause the faucet pump died a few years back and its need for replacement was
very noticeable. I can hear the primary pump running when the ignition is
turned on. I also know if the primary pump fails the engine will quit fair
ly quick and while still on the ground. I had to disconnect the primary pum
p power wires to test this. Before takeoff or landing I turn on the back up
pump.
It works for me.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Welch
Sent: Wednesday=2C January 13=2C 2010 2:04 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: 582 fuel system
Mark and Kolb guys=2C
I'm curious. I don't have much experience with diaphram pumps and all=2C
but it seems odd to want to design a series fuel pumping system. I mean
=2C I know a series system would work great and all....but how would you kn
ow you lost one of the pumps=2C if the other pump can do all the work?
Let's say=2C for example=2C the last flight you had=2C your primary pump
blew out=2C and the backup kept you flying=2C how would you know??? You'd
be toolin' along thinking you had both pumpers up to snuff=2C but you would
n't.
Unless you verified each and every flight that BOTH pumps were operating
fine=2C you could be relying a false sense of security. Wouldn't you?
If it were me=2C and maybe that's just my way of thinking=2C I think I wo
uld like a parallel fuel system. Here why I think this=3B if my primary s
ystem failed=2C it would kick on the backup system (and a big bright red pa
nel light). The light would alert me that the primary pump needs attention
=2C and when I landed=2C I could take care of the problem=2C but in the mea
ntime=2C my backup is doing it's job.
For a parallel design=2C a primary system could easily have a low-pressur
e switch ($30 McMaster Carr) that if activated (due to a zero or very low f
uel pressure)=2C it would turn on the backup pump.
This method is close to how my turbo "high fuel delivery" fuel system is
designed and operated.
I realize a series fuel system=2C with two fuel pumps=2C CAN work. I kno
w that. But=2C how would you know that every flight both are working prope
rly?
Just some thoughts on the matter.......
Mike Welch
MkIII CX
> I've got a series or parallel question about installing a facet boost pum
p. I'm planning on intalling a facet pump between my fuel tank and the he m
ikuni engine pump. I'm doing it in series just to keep it simple. If the fa
cet fails it should still flow thru so the mikuni will be able to draw fuel
from the tank. But what if the mikuni fails? Will it flow thru and allow t
he boost pump fuel to get to the carbs? Those of you with similar systems I
'd appreciate your advice.
>
> Mark Rinehart
Hotmail: Free=2C trusted and r01/' target='_new'>Get it now.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582 fuel system |
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
John Hauck wrote:
>
> Lucien/Gang:
>
> Based on altitude and terrain, I will turn on the boost pump as necessary.
> The Facet is rated for continuous duty. Could leave it on all the time.
>
> john h
> mkIII
That's what I do. There is a pressure gauge plumbed into the line between the Facet
and the Mikuni, and if the engine burps and the pressure gauge is still at
3 psi, at least I know it's not fuel related.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281404#281404
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582 fuel system |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
John Hauck wrote:
>
> Lucien/Gang:
>
> Based on altitude and terrain, I will turn on the boost pump is necessary.
> The Facet is rated for continuous duty. Could leave it on all the time.
>
> If I am scared the engine is going to stop at any moment, I'll follow a road
> or other suitable forced landing area, if there is one.
>
> Normally, flying with a 912UL or a 912ULS, I fly direct.
>
> Aren't you flying a Titan with 912?
>
> john h
> mkIII
Yes, a II SS with a 912ULS. So far it's been 100% reliable but I'm still nervous
about trusting my life to an engine. My plane and my ticket I'm not too worried
about but not even my mighty 912ULS is completely comforting when I put myself
over possibly life-threatening terrain.
But on some of my recent trips here in northern NM, you don't have much choice
to get some places. Even going to Taos from SF there're a couple spots where you
know it would just hurt if the fan stopped turning even if you hug roads and
landing spots.
If the weekend is nice I'm going to try Questa (N24) and carry my trusty gas can
along with.
Speaking of the facet pump, the other titan on our field uses one for his 7gal
pony tank that he puts in the back seat. I'm experimenting with the gas can idea
and it works well so far, but I'm thinking of trying the pony tank idea as
well for longer legs.
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281409#281409
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rotax 503 throttle cable and junction |
| From: | "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com> |
I want to replace my throttle cable and junction. I saw this assembly from CPS:
http://www.rotaxparts.net/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=645
but I don't have oil injection so would I be better off buying the pieces separately
(don't see where you can online at CPS, but maybe if I call them)?
What is the difference between the short and long junction?
Anyone measured how much cable you need between the throttle lever and the junction?
Or should I just call TNK?
Back in the game-Cristal
--------
Cristal Waters
Kolb Mark II Twinstar
Rotax 503 DCSI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281415#281415
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 503 throttle cable and junction |
> Or should I just call TNK?
>
> Back in the game-Cristal
>
> --------
> Cristal Waters
Cristal/Gang:
Recommend calling Travis at TNK.
Most of you all probably already know, TNK is now, and has been, composed of
Travis and Dennis for nearly a year. They are Kolb. We need to do
everything we can to support them. If they close up shop, we are on our own
to build and maintain our airplanes. They still provide the best service I
know of.
Take care,
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 503 throttle cable and junction |
| From: | "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com> |
John Hauck wrote:
>
> Cristal/Gang:
>
> Recommend calling Travis at TNK.
>
> Most of you all probably already know, TNK is now, and has been, composed of
> Travis and Dennis for nearly a year. They are Kolb. We need to do
> everything we can to support them. If they close up shop, we are on our own
> to build and maintain our airplanes. They still provide the best service I
> know of.
>
> Take care,
>
> john h
> mkIII
Gotcha
--------
Cristal Waters
Kolb Mark II Twinstar
Rotax 503 DCSI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281431#281431
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 fuel system |
We of course have had this discussion almost as many time as Sea Foam,
and I generally keep out of it, but I am wondering why do most of you
feel the facet is only useable as a boost pump? I know that in a GA
plane, they use a boost pump on take off and landing. I suppose that
there is a reason for that, but I can think of no reason why the facet
(rated at 3-5 lbs of pressure) has to be turned off when I am flying
level? It certainly is not going to over power the mech. pump. I only
have about 500 hours on my plane, and when I leave the airstrip almost
no where that I could put down is a "good place". I am sure that the
mech. pump on the HKS could supply me enough fuel to limp to somewhere
better, but I can find no reason to spare the facet the function that it
was designed for. Will I use less gas if I leave it off? At $28.00 I am
pretty sure I could afford another one if this one went belly up. Don't
get me wrong, it really doesn't matter if you turn it off after you get
airborne, I am just curious as to why that is necessary.
Larry, (forgetful but honest, even on a short winter day)
Note: If you forward this email, please delete the forwarding history,
which includes my email address.
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Pike
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 5:33 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 582 fuel system
John Hauck wrote:
>
> Lucien/Gang:
>
> Based on altitude and terrain, I will turn on the boost pump as
necessary.
> The Facet is rated for continuous duty. Could leave it on all the
time.
>
> john h
> mkIII
That's what I do. There is a pressure gauge plumbed into the line
between the Facet and the Mikuni, and if the engine burps and the
pressure gauge is still at 3 psi, at least I know it's not fuel related.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281404#281404
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
01/14/10 07:35:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Longo" <tclongo(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 fuel system |
Gang: It is funny how so many different opinions come up on some subjects,
that is a good thing. Because one is not the same as the other doesn't mean
it is the wrong or right one. I read and make my own decision with all of
the input. I heard all of the negative reasons for not having a series boost
pump. Here are mine on the positive: Like John says it gives you another
chance, it also will keep a vapor lock problem at bay when it is put near
fuel supply as a pusher, a small air leak on a fuel pump pulling fuel could
be a big problem but having a boost pump pushing with the same air leak will
give you plenty of fuel, I know from experience where I had a small air leak
that did not leak fuel but put allot of air in fuel line and turning on
boost pump cleared the air bubbles. I like the idea of having a second
chance more than the complicity of the extra pump in line. If your fuel
filter clogs enough to not let you get full power the boost pump will give
you enough you probably will and can make a safe landing. This is my take, I
am sure it will get picked apart. Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of lucien
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 6:56 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 582 fuel system
John Hauck wrote:
>
> Lucien/Gang:
>
> I think the major advantage of having an electric boost pump is when the
> Mikuni fails, gives you another chance.
>
>
Seems like we've kicked around the electric fuel pump issue in the past, but
my memory is a little foggy on it.
To the OP I'd say it's ultimately a matter of personal preference as my
reasons for not liking and thus not using an electric pump (unless it's
specifically called for by the installation) tend to be just matters of my
own personal opinion.
I personally prefer the simplest possible systems in critical areas like
fuel systems because they're easier to maintain, less stuff for me to worry
about in flight, easier to catch goofs on and yeild the simplest possible
checklists in the plane. I.e.
fan stops turning:
- go to landing spot
- land
fan gets rough
- go to landing spot
- land
without having to hit extra switches, etc.
etc...
Though I will admit that some of the terrain I've flown over in a couple of
my recent trips did once or twice cause backup systems like an aux. fuel
pump to pop into my mind for a moment.
It did prompt me to go hug a road, which did quite enjoyable extend a flight
I made the other day.
If the WX is good this weekend I'm going to repeat it but this time using
that new route with the road under it ;)
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281354#281354
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
07:35:00
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 fuel system |
Morning, Larry/Gang:
Put another log on the fire.
The Facet is a continuous duty pump.
Not gonna hurt a thing to leave it on all the time.
I turn mine on and off so I won't become bored on long flights. ;-)
Probably habit more than anything else.
john h
We of course have had this discussion almost as many time as Sea Foam,
and I generally keep out of it, but I am wondering why do most of you
feel the facet is only useable as a boost pump?
Larry, (forgetful but honest, even on a short winter day)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | life insurance for experimental flying |
| From: | "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com> |
I got my life insurance through AOPA, but it does not cover me if I fly experimental
planes.
Who does?
--------
Cristal Waters
Kolb Mark II Twinstar
Rotax 503 DCSI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281443#281443
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying the lazy river on Youtube |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
Speaking of the firefly, there is a vid on youtube of what looks to be the Kolb
factory firefly flying at what I think is Sun-n-fun by (again I think) John H:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SFhiQRlGwA
It too has a nifty patriotic paint scheme.
I've lost count of how many batrillion times I've watched this vid.....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281453#281453
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 fuel system |
Hi All,
I may as well add my thoughts to what every one else believes. My
facett is mounted below the fuel tanks and the pulse pump is mounted
above the engine , HKS.
The facet is wired through my master switch and is on all the time. I
have never thought to check to see if the pulse pump works , I suppose
it would be easy enough to
check , as the mags are not wired through the master, so If i turn off
the master the engine still runs. Think I'll do that about once a
month from now on.
Because I had a large in flight fuel leak due to a rotten fuel line
that was about a year old, I do always turn on the facet and check
for fuel leaks as part of my preflight.
My friend in the insurance business ,once told me that it is
impossible to buy enough insurance to cover every possible event , buy
enough so you can feel confortable , then relax and enjoy life.
I try to apply that thought to my flying.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar 2
Brownville , TX it's finally getting warmer here 62f
On Jan 14, 2010, at 8:51 AM, Tom Longo wrote:
> Gang: It is funny how so many different opinions come up on some
> subjects,
> that is a good thing. Because one is not the same as the other
> doesn't mean
> it is the wrong or right one. I read and make my own decision with
> all of
> the input. I heard all of the negative reasons for not having a
> series boost
> pump. Here are mine on the positive: Like John says it gives you
> another
> chance, it also will keep a vapor lock problem at bay when it is put
> near
> fuel supply as a pusher, a small air leak on a fuel pump pulling
> fuel could
> be a big problem but having a boost pump pushing with the same air
> leak will
> give you plenty of fuel, I know from experience where I had a small
> air leak
> that did not leak fuel but put allot of air in fuel line and turning
> on
> boost pump cleared the air bubbles. I like the idea of having a second
> chance more than the complicity of the extra pump in line. If your
> fuel
> filter clogs enough to not let you get full power the boost pump
> will give
> you enough you probably will and can make a safe landing. This is my
> take, I
> am sure it will get picked apart. Tom
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of lucien
> Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 6:56 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: 582 fuel system
>
>
> John Hauck wrote:
>>
>> Lucien/Gang:
>>
>> I think the major advantage of having an electric boost pump is
>> when the
>> Mikuni fails, gives you another chance.
>>
>>
>
>
> Seems like we've kicked around the electric fuel pump issue in the
> past, but
> my memory is a little foggy on it.
>
> To the OP I'd say it's ultimately a matter of personal preference as
> my
> reasons for not liking and thus not using an electric pump (unless
> it's
> specifically called for by the installation) tend to be just matters
> of my
> own personal opinion.
>
> I personally prefer the simplest possible systems in critical areas
> like
> fuel systems because they're easier to maintain, less stuff for me
> to worry
> about in flight, easier to catch goofs on and yeild the simplest
> possible
> checklists in the plane. I.e.
> fan stops turning:
> - go to landing spot
> - land
> fan gets rough
> - go to landing spot
> - land
>
> without having to hit extra switches, etc.
>
> etc...
>
> Though I will admit that some of the terrain I've flown over in a
> couple of
> my recent trips did once or twice cause backup systems like an aux.
> fuel
> pump to pop into my mind for a moment.
> It did prompt me to go hug a road, which did quite enjoyable extend
> a flight
> I made the other day.
> If the WX is good this weekend I'm going to repeat it but this time
> using
> that new route with the road under it ;)
>
> LS
>
> --------
> LS
> Titan II SS
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281354#281354
>
>
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> 07:35:00
>
>
> --
> We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam.
>
> The Professional version does not have this message
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 fuel system |
Tom,
There is another consideration. If you use a facet pump, you pressurize the
whole line from the down close to the tank and up to the engine. If you are
using a Mikuni pump close to the engine, all the line below the pump is
sucking. If you get a leak below the Mikuni where it is the only pump, you
will get bubbles and if it gets bad enough the fan stops. If the same
happens to the line above the facet, the fan may keep running, but you may
have fuel in the cockpit area and or spraying on the engine.
Luckly, the probability of this happening is somewhere around the failure
rate of the Mikuni and/or facet pump. But I believe I would find it less
stressful to put the plane down with a silent engine, rather than have to
turn off the engine and put it down with a smelly cockpit or an engine
fire.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
>Gang: It is funny how so many different opinions come up on some subjects,
>that is a good thing. Because one is not the same as the other doesn't mean
>it is the wrong or right one. I read and make my own decision with all of
>the input. I heard all of the negative reasons for not having a series boost
>pump. Here are mine on the positive: Like John says it gives you another
>chance, it also will keep a vapor lock problem at bay when it is put near
>fuel supply as a pusher, a small air leak on a fuel pump pulling fuel could
>be a big problem but having a boost pump pushing with the same air leak will
>give you plenty of fuel, I know from experience where I had a small air leak
>that did not leak fuel but put allot of air in fuel line and turning on
>boost pump cleared the air bubbles. I like the idea of having a second
>chance more than the complicity of the extra pump in line. If your fuel
>filter clogs enough to not let you get full power the boost pump will give
>you enough you probably will and can make a safe landing. This is my take, I
>am sure it will get picked apart. Tom
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lanny Fetterman <donaho1(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | life insurance for experimental flying |
Check out the EAA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: life insurance for experimental flying |
| From: | "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com> |
donaho1(at)verizon.net wrote:
> Check out the EAA
Looks like they use Harvey Watt & Company. Never heard of that. Anyone have any
experience with them?
--------
Cristal Waters
Kolb Mark II Twinstar
Rotax 503 DCSI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281489#281489
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | early Firestar project available |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
The early Firestar I sold a couple years ago after breaking it, is now up for sale
(still a project) by the current owner. He has some job issues which are forcing
him to sell before he has completed it. I don't know the current state
of the rebuild but if anyone on the list is interested or knows someone who is,
you can contact the current owner as from barnstormers ad below. He told me
his price is $3k.
KOLB FIRESTAR AVAILABLE FOR SALE this plane is a rebuildable project 447 rotax
170 hrs call 716-984-3678 or e-mail for details or pic Contact Thomas Peters,
Owner - located Lancaster, NY USA Telephone: 7169843678 . Posted January
13, 2010
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY
Kolb Slingshot SS-021
Jabiru 2200A #1574
Tennessee Prop 64x31
I have reached an age when, if someone tells me to wear socks, I don't have to.
- Albert Einstein
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281497#281497
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Longo" <tclongo(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 fuel system |
Good point Jack,
But now I have the option of not turning on the boost pump and making a nice
dead-stick landing if in a suitable area or turning on pump and getting to a
suitable area to land in and then shutting down the pump and landing. The
pump is there just for quick prime on start up and back up if needed.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jack B. Hart
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 11:12 AM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: 582 fuel system
Tom,
There is another consideration. If you use a facet pump, you pressurize the
whole line from the down close to the tank and up to the engine. If you are
using a Mikuni pump close to the engine, all the line below the pump is
sucking. If you get a leak below the Mikuni where it is the only pump, you
will get bubbles and if it gets bad enough the fan stops. If the same
happens to the line above the facet, the fan may keep running, but you may
have fuel in the cockpit area and or spraying on the engine.
Luckly, the probability of this happening is somewhere around the failure
rate of the Mikuni and/or facet pump. But I believe I would find it less
stressful to put the plane down with a silent engine, rather than have to
turn off the engine and put it down with a smelly cockpit or an engine
fire.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
>Gang: It is funny how so many different opinions come up on some subjects,
>that is a good thing. Because one is not the same as the other doesn't mean
>it is the wrong or right one. I read and make my own decision with all of
>the input. I heard all of the negative reasons for not having a series
boost
>pump. Here are mine on the positive: Like John says it gives you another
>chance, it also will keep a vapor lock problem at bay when it is put near
>fuel supply as a pusher, a small air leak on a fuel pump pulling fuel could
>be a big problem but having a boost pump pushing with the same air leak
will
>give you plenty of fuel, I know from experience where I had a small air
leak
>that did not leak fuel but put allot of air in fuel line and turning on
>boost pump cleared the air bubbles. I like the idea of having a second
>chance more than the complicity of the extra pump in line. If your fuel
>filter clogs enough to not let you get full power the boost pump will give
>you enough you probably will and can make a safe landing. This is my take,
I
>am sure it will get picked apart. Tom
>
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07:35:00
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582 fuel system |
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
jbhart(at)onlyinternet.ne wrote:
> Tom,
>
> There is another consideration. If you use a facet pump, you pressurize the
> whole line from the down close to the tank and up to the engine. If you are
> using a Mikuni pump close to the engine, all the line below the pump is
> sucking. If you get a leak below the Mikuni where it is the only pump, you
> will get bubbles and if it gets bad enough the fan stops. If the same
> happens to the line above the facet, the fan may keep running, but you may
> have fuel in the cockpit area and or spraying on the engine.
>
> Luckly, the probability of this happening is somewhere around the failure
> rate of the Mikuni and/or facet pump. But I believe I would find it less
> stressful to put the plane down with a silent engine, rather than have to
> turn off the engine and put it down with a smelly cockpit or an engine
> fire.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Winchester, IN
>
>
Good point. That is why I like 3003-0 1/4" soft aluminum tubing from Aircraft Spruce
for 98% of the fuel lines. (& it's cheaper than Tygon) I use Tygon only
to connect from the aluminum tubing to the Bing itself, and that is easy to see
and get to & change it annually. Use Gates rubber fuel line to connect from
the tank & fuel pump to the aluminum tube, etc. Pad the aluminum tube throughout
its runs with standoffs and short sections of rubber tubing everywhere it comes
close to structure. Do it right the first time and that part of your system
ought to last the life of your aircraft, with only the need to replace the
rubber sections annually & inspect the rest. Fuel lines are one area where the
traditional ultralight/dirt bike techniques are just not good enough.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281543#281543
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582 fuel system |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
Richard Pike wrote:
>
> Good point. That is why I like 3003-0 1/4" soft aluminum tubing from Aircraft
Spruce for 98% of the fuel lines. (& it's cheaper than Tygon) I use Tygon only
to connect from the aluminum tubing to the Bing itself, and that is easy to
see and get to & change it annually. Use Gates rubber fuel line to connect from
the tank & fuel pump to the aluminum tube, etc. Pad the aluminum tube throughout
its runs with standoffs and short sections of rubber tubing everywhere it
comes close to structure. Do it right the first time and that part of your system
ought to last the life of your aircraft, with only the need to replace the
rubber sections annually & inspect the rest. Fuel lines are one area where the
traditional ultralight/dirt bike techniques are just not good enough.
>
> Richard Pike
> MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
I tried using tubing like this on my ultralight once and it wasn't too successful.
There were always twice as many connections to have to pull tubing off of - one
at the carb/fuel pump etc. and the other at the metal tubing. Also I somehow
always managed to damage or bend the tubing trying to get the little pieces of
line off when I changed them.
I was going to try regular steel line next but just decided to go back to all tygothane.
That was about 9 years ago and havn't left that method since.
If I ever get an ASTM compliant motor with the fittings and such I'll definitely
go with ASTM fittings and aeroquip line. That's really the right way to do it....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281546#281546
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Prop Calculator ? can't find it... |
| From: | "planecrazzzy" <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com> |
Hey Guys,
I searched for the prop calculator I saw here years ago.
I thought I bookmarked it...
Too much info when I search...
Because of the word "Prop"...
Anybody got it handy ? I just wanted to run some numbers thru it
for my next plane...
.
.
Thanks in advance...
.
.
Gotta Fly...
Mike & "Jaz" the Flying Dog
.
.
.
--------
.
.
.
.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281599#281599
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/windscreen_tubing_010_520.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: life insurance for experimental flying |
| From: | "planecrazzzy" <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com> |
Falcon Insurance thru EAA
Jim Stewart 1-866-647-4322 ( Texas )
.
.
I paid $450 per year.... and get a couple hundred back each year
cause I don't fly in the Winter...( Not my FSII )
.
.
Gotta Fly...
Mike & "Jaz" in MN
.
.
.
--------
.
.
.
.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281600#281600
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MV date decided yet? |
| From: | "John Bickham" <gearbender(at)bellsouth.net> |
Don't want to let Larry down due to lack of outburst!!!
Sorry, been a little busy. Past weekend in the teen's not good. Petro-chemical
plants not designed to handle that down here. Found out fiber-optics can be
freeze affected!! News to a lot a folks here.
I learned a lot on that day. First, that is probably the last time you'll hear
me say, "I'll go first!!!"
Second, if you see dust being picked up 1000' feet in the air 6-8 miles away, chances
are pretty slim the wind is "6-10 mph right down the runway".
Third, your "wind shadow" from the raised terrain on the west side of the runway
is lower than the height of the barbed wire fence on the north end of the runway.
I'm guessing somewhere close to 6-8"!!!!
If you remember, you mentioned the "wind shadow" as we approached with a somewhat
doubtful tone on the radio.
Fourth, you got a pretty good first step! As I touched down and the crosswind started
to overpower the rudder causing a swerve, you demonstrated an amazing initial
evasive move.
You know I'm just kidding. It was the trip of a lifetime for me! Your and Ms
Karen's hospitality was much appreciated and hope to have the chance to return
the favor someday.
The following is one of my favorite Kolb video's. Give folks some appreciation
of what we are talking about. The wind was not this bad when we landed, but
it sure wasn't "6-10, right down the runway"!!!
Pay attention to the power setting on approach and the the ground roll. For perspective,
I'm guessing Larry's hangar is about 40 ft wide. This is on the crosswind
runway that is not readily visible to first time arrivals.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMYsdarPcnY&feature=channel
Also if some folks are interested in what last year's trip was like, you might
find the blog I kept during trip interesting.
http://kolbadventures.blogspot.com/
--------
Thanks too much,
John Bickham
Mark III-C w/ 912UL
St. Francisville, LA
I know many pilots and a few true aviators. There is a distinct difference that
I have the greatest respect for.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281603#281603
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MV date decided yet? |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
I've also lost track of how many bazillion times I've watched this video too. Just
goes to show you what our light airplanes are capable of when flown by expert
pilots.
When I was ferrying my plane to NM from JD's place in NE, I had to put down about
an hour into the first leg of the trip. The headwinds were so strong that my
ground speed was cut in half (airspeed about 100mph, GS reduced to about 50
shortly after t/o). Had only about 3 hrs in the plane (it was definitely NOT being
flown by an expert) and the place I chose to land (loup city, NE) was blowing
25G40 about 20degs to the right. Amazing I did no damage. I've had no desire
to fly in conditions like that since tho I've come close just as a matter
of circumstances.
You guys still amaze me with your endurance and flying skill and show what the
Kolb is capable of.
WX is looking good this weekend for another trip, hopefully I won't have to put
down in such winds....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281608#281608
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Calculator ? can't find it... |
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Mike, is this the one? I found it to be excellent for getting me in the ballpark
initially.
It will tell you what HP you are getting after you see real numbers.
http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/articles/propeller_selector.htm
Unfortunately it won't run on a mac so if I want to use it I have to dust off the
old PC
BB
On 15, Jan 2010, at 8:36 AM, planecrazzzy wrote:
>
> Hey Guys,
> I searched for the prop calculator I saw here years ago.
> I thought I bookmarked it...
>
> Too much info when I search...
> Because of the word "Prop"...
>
> Anybody got it handy ? I just wanted to run some numbers thru it
> for my next plane...
> .
> .
> Thanks in advance...
> .
> .
> Gotta Fly...
> Mike & "Jaz" the Flying Dog
> .
> .
> .
>
> --------
> .
> .
> .
> .
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281599#281599
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/windscreen_tubing_010_520.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MV date decided yet? |
> I learned a lot on that day. First, that is probably the last time you'll
hear me say, "I'll go first!!!"
>
>
> John Bickham
John B/Gang:
Ya done good, John Boy!
You and Bruce C both got one Hell of an initiation that day.
I had forgotten about the big dust cloud until you reminded me.
My hands don't sweat often when I fly, especially when it is cold. I had to
wipe my hands on my Levis leg several times on final that day.
Glad I knew about the cross wind strip. I probably would not have made a
satisfactory landing on the main strip.
Looking forward to doing it again this year.
6 to 10 right down the runway.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Calculator ? can't find it... |
http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/articles/propeller_selector.htm
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
>
>Hey Guys,
> I searched for the prop calculator I saw here years ago.
>I thought I bookmarked it...
>
>Too much info when I search...
>Because of the word "Prop"...
>
> Anybody got it handy ? I just wanted to run some numbers thru it
>for my next plane...
>.
>.
> Thanks in advance...
>.
>.
>Gotta Fly...
>Mike & "Jaz" the Flying Dog
>.
>.
>.
>
>--------
>.
>.
>.
>.
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281599#281599
>
>
>Attachments:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com//files/windscreen_tubing_010_520.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Cottrell" <lcottrell(at)fmtcblue.com> |
| Subject: | Re: MV date decided yet? |
John, I hope this doesn't mean that you aren't coming this year? Karen
will be devastated or at least distressed.
Larry
Note: If you forward this email, please delete the forwarding history,
which includes my email address.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Bickham
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 15, 2010 7:07 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: MV date decided yet?
Don't want to let Larry down due to lack of outburst!!!
Sorry, been a little busy. Past weekend in the teen's not good.
Petro-chemical plants not designed to handle that down here. Found out
fiber-optics can be freeze affected!! News to a lot a folks here.
I learned a lot on that day. First, that is probably the last time
you'll hear me say, "I'll go first!!!"
Second, if you see dust being picked up 1000' feet in the air 6-8
miles away, chances are pretty slim the wind is "6-10 mph right down the
runway".
Third, your "wind shadow" from the raised terrain on the west side of
the runway is lower than the height of the barbed wire fence on the
north end of the runway. I'm guessing somewhere close to 6-8"!!!!
If you remember, you mentioned the "wind shadow" as we approached with
a somewhat doubtful tone on the radio.
Fourth, you got a pretty good first step! As I touched down and the
crosswind started to overpower the rudder causing a swerve, you
demonstrated an amazing initial evasive move.
You know I'm just kidding. It was the trip of a lifetime for me!
Your and Ms Karen's hospitality was much appreciated and hope to have
the chance to return the favor someday.
The following is one of my favorite Kolb video's. Give folks some
appreciation of what we are talking about. The wind was not this bad
when we landed, but it sure wasn't "6-10, right down the runway"!!!
Pay attention to the power setting on approach and the the ground
roll. For perspective, I'm guessing Larry's hangar is about 40 ft wide.
This is on the crosswind runway that is not readily visible to first
time arrivals.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMYsdarPcnY&feature=channel
Also if some folks are interested in what last year's trip was like,
you might find the blog I kept during trip interesting.
http://kolbadventures.blogspot.com/
--------
Thanks too much,
John Bickham
Mark III-C w/ 912UL
St. Francisville, LA
I know many pilots and a few true aviators. There is a distinct
difference that I have the greatest respect for.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281603#281603
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
01/14/10 12:39:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Calculator ? can't find it... |
| From: | "planecrazzzy" <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com> |
I'll try it...
The one we had here before , didn't need downloading...
You just punched in the numbers...
.
.
This one looks more accurate...more info
.
.
Thanks Guys...
.
..
Gotta Fly...
Mike & "Jaz" in MN
.
.
.
--------
.
.
.
.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281672#281672
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | another New Video ! |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
Hi Everyone !
Here is another video,if you have the time...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHhxTOQTuUI
Enjoy !
chris ambrose
M3X/Jabiru
N327CS 90.0 hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281702#281702
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: another New Video ! |
| From: | "George Alexander" <gtalexander(at)att.net> |
ces308 wrote:
> Hi Everyone !
>
> Here is another video,if you have the time...
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHhxTOQTuUI
>
> Enjoy !
>
> chris ambrose
> M3X/Jabiru
> N327CS 90.0 hrs
Chris:
YouTube pulled your video.... too long.
--------
George Alexander
FS II R503 N709FS
http://gtalexander.home.att.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281715#281715
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: another New Video ! |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
Sorry guys....it took it at first....but then kicked it out ....trying to figure
out how to link to Facebook....
chris ambrose
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281727#281727
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | try this..... the video.... |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
try this and see if it works....
chris ambrose
m3x/jabiru
n327CS 90.0 hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281739#281739
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: try this..... the video.... |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
Never mind....can't make it work...
chris ambrose
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281741#281741
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: try this..... the video.... |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
Hi Cristal...
Yes I have it ,but it will not work with this camera....wrong format...I need a
new camera....lol If you are on Face book,it is posted there....
chris ambrose
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281749#281749
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: try this..... the video.... |
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
ces308 wrote:
> Hi Cristal...
>
> Yes I have it ,but it will not work with this camera....wrong format...I need
a new camera....lol If you are on Face book,it is posted there....
>
> chris ambrose
Searched "Chris Ambrose" on Facebook, but no joy. Got any idee?
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281765#281765
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: try this..... the video.... |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
Try my email ces308(at)ldaco.com...
chris ambrose
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281767#281767
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | floats on Firestar? |
I have a friend who just bought a set of used Full Lotus floats for his
FSII. He's still waiting for information from the manufacturer, but we'd
appreciate any information from anybody who has put floats on a FS.
The floats are to be mounted at a specified nose down angle relative to the
plane, but what datum on the plane do you use? The 9 angle on the bottom
of the wing used for the weight and balance? The horizon in level flight
cruise? Or something else? Full Lotus, naturally, won't have information
specific to the Kolb.
Any links to pictures of a float installation on a FSII would also be
great. His floats have the amphib gear (wheels swinging down outside the
float). The floats came off a tri-gear plane, but he plans on setting it
up as a taildragger with tailwheels on the water rudders.
-Dana
--
The greatest threat to western civilization are people whose fear of
other people's liberty exceeds the love of their own.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | daniel myers <h20maule(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | floats on Firestar? |
monoflat is the way to go...i have had two fsII in fl floats email me for p
ix and info
Daniel
h20maule(at)hotmail.com
> Date: Sat=2C 16 Jan 2010 18:06:42 -0500
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> From: d-m-hague(at)comcast.net
> Subject: Kolb-List: floats on Firestar?
>
>
> I have a friend who just bought a set of used Full Lotus floats for his
> FSII. He's still waiting for information from the manufacturer=2C but we'
d
> appreciate any information from anybody who has put floats on a FS.
>
> The floats are to be mounted at a specified nose down angle relative to t
he
> plane=2C but what datum on the plane do you use? The 9=B0 angle on the bo
ttom
> of the wing used for the weight and balance? The horizon in level flight
> cruise? Or something else? Full Lotus=2C naturally=2C won't have informat
ion
> specific to the Kolb.
>
> Any links to pictures of a float installation on a FSII would also be
> great. His floats have the amphib gear (wheels swinging down outside the
> float). The floats came off a tri-gear plane=2C but he plans on setting i
t
> up as a taildragger with tailwheels on the water rudders.
>
> -Dana
> --
> The greatest threat to western civilization are people whose fear of
> other people's liberty exceeds the love of their own.
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free=2C trusted and rich email service.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: floats on Firestar? |
| From: | "ces308" <ces308(at)ldaco.com> |
Dana...have checked out the Full Lotus site? They had a lot of pictures of Kolbs on thier floats... http://www.full-lotus.com/index_main.html
I am hoping to put a set on my Mark 3 Xtra also...Need to sell my Skyhawk first
though...
chris ambrose
M3X/Jabiru 90.3 hrs
N327CS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281861#281861
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | floats on Firestar? |
At 08:12 PM 1/16/2010, daniel myers wrote:
>monoflat is the way to go...i have had two fsII in fl floats email me for
>pix and info
I'd like to do the monofloat on my UltraStar, but my friend already has the
FL dual floats. For me, floats aren't going to happen, this year at least.
Were both of yours monofloat? At this point we're only looking for dual
float info.
At least when we go somewhere together with floats on his plane I won't
have to keep telling him to slow down!
-Dana
--
Everyone who lives dies; yet not everyone who dies, has lived.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Icom A6 PTT wiring |
| From: | "albertakolbmk3" <cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com> |
Hi,
I've got an ICOM A6 radio that I would like to rewire to remove the existing PTT
and use the one in the new handle I purchased. The new handle has 4 buttons
on top that I want to use to control my EIS and the push to talk on the front
for the radio. The problem I'm having is the existing PTT has one button but two
switches under it. One is wired NC and the other NO. The NO switch controls
the transmit which I can get to work with the button on my new handle, what is
the other switch for? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Tony
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281968#281968
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rivets used in lexan installation |
| From: | "albertakolbmk3" <cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com> |
I'm replacing the lexan on my mkIII and would like to know what was originally
used for rivets? The ones I drilled out have an aluminum body but the mandrel
seems to be steel... is this correct? A magnet sticks quite well.
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281982#281982
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivets used in lexan installation |
> I'm replacing the lexan on my mkIII and would like to know what was
originally used for rivets? The ones I drilled out have an aluminum body but
the mandrel seems to be steel... is this correct? A magnet sticks quite
well.
>
> --------
> Tony B.
Tony B/Gang:
Kolb used to send aluminum closed end pop rivets for attaching lexan windows
and windshield. Yes, these rivets did have hardened steel mandrels and were
a bugger to punch out prior to drilling out a rivet.
I use them the first couple times around on windshield installation.
Now I use hardware store aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrels for any
lexan installation. Makes life a lot easier when it comes time to replace
the lexan.
Sorry I could not help you with the PPT, stick grip question. Not familiar
with multi-switch type grips.
john h
mkIII - Looks like I may get to fly tomorrow, unless the weather guesser is
wrong.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivets used in lexan installation |
I used hardware store alum rivets for my lexan windshield . no problem
so far and easy to drill out if necessary .
Great weather in south , TX today 72 degrees.--8 mph wind and
bright sunshine. 1st flight in almost a month.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar 2
Brownsville , TX
On Jan 17, 2010, at 7:22 PM, John Hauck wrote:
>
>
> > I'm replacing the lexan on my mkIII and would like to know what
> was originally used for rivets? The ones I drilled out have an
> aluminum body but the mandrel seems to be steel... is this correct?
> A magnet sticks quite well.
>>
>> --------
>> Tony B.
>
>
> Tony B/Gang:
>
> Kolb used to send aluminum closed end pop rivets for attaching lexan
> windows and windshield. Yes, these rivets did have hardened steel
> mandrels and were a bugger to punch out prior to drilling out a rivet.
>
> I use them the first couple times around on windshield installation.
>
> Now I use hardware store aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrels for
> any lexan installation. Makes life a lot easier when it comes time
> to replace the lexan.
>
> Sorry I could not help you with the PPT, stick grip question. Not
> familiar with multi-switch type grips.
>
> john h
> mkIII - Looks like I may get to fly tomorrow, unless the weather
> guesser is wrong.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Icom A6 PTT wiring |
At 04:55 PM 1/17/2010, albertakolbmk3 wrote:
>I've got an ICOM A6 radio that I would like to rewire to remove the
>existing PTT and use the one in the new handle I purchased. The new handle
>has 4 buttons on top that I want to use to control my EIS and the push to
>talk on the front for the radio. The problem I'm having is the existing
>PTT has one button but two switches under it. One is wired NC and the
>other NO. The NO switch controls the transmit which I can get to work with
>the button on my new handle, what is the other switch for? Any help would
>be greatly appreciated.
Tony, as you say the NO switch is all you need for transmit. The NC switch
might be for an intercom or something.
I made a PTT for my UltraStar, built it right into the stick. All I used
was a single NO switch.
-Dana
--
For every new foolproof invention there is a new and improved fool.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
Hi all Kolbers,
As i am still gearing up for, and trying to learn about my first long
X country, I have a question for you that choose to fly long X
countrys over lightly populated
areas with sometimes rather harsh terrain.When on a trip do
you file a flight plan with the FAA? If you do or if you don't would
you please tell me your reasoning for your decision?
FYI I have a cell phone , GPS and a SPOT brand personal locater
that has tracking ,check in , I'm OK , and SOS features.
Thanks
Frank Goodnight
Firestar 2
Brownsville ,TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Icom A6 PTT wiring |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Tony,
Maybe I'm misunderstanding your intention but I have the Icom A6 adapters for headset,
external power etc and use the PTT on the joystick without any modification
to the PTT switch on the A6.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY
Kolb Slingshot SS-021
Jabiru 2200A #1574
Tennessee Prop 64x31
Write a wise saying and your name will live forever.
- Anonymous
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282055#282055
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/icom_a6_ptt_diagram_517.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | New Two Stroke Oil For Aircraft |
http://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?ContentBlockID=ab8e8d4d-de2f-4687-84ba-8f478fd37a2f
john h
MKIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Icom A6 PTT wiring |
| From: | "albertakolbmk3" <cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com> |
The problem is that ultralight helmets only have the one cable for both intercom
and headset so there are 5 wires. The stick grip I bought only has the one NO
switch for intercom. Just wondering if there is a way I can still utilize the
one button on the grip without having to go back to using the velcro attached
button that has the two switches in it.
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282060#282060
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Two Stroke Oil For Aircraft |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New Two Stroke Oil For Aircraft |
At 09:49 AM 1/18/2010, John Hauck wrote:
>
>http://www.aero-news.net/index.cfm?ContentBlockID=ab8e8d4d-de2f-4687-84ba-8f478fd37a2f
Since Shell recently bought Pennzoil, why do I suspect that the "new" oil
is the old Pennzoil "air cooled 2-stroke oil" in a new (and doubtless more
expensive!) package?
<http://oilstore.stores.yahoo.net/aesppl212qu.html>
-Dana
--
Ever notice the Secret Service and the Nazi SS have the same initials?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vic" <vicsv(at)myfairpoint.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivets used in lexan installation |
Tony,
I used all aluminun fabric rivets. They covered the enlarged holes in the
lexan well.
2 yrs. no problem yet.
Ptt switch. Sounds like just an option.
Vic
Xtra 912
Maine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Icom A6 PTT wiring |
At 10:11 AM 1/18/2010, albertakolbmk3 wrote:
>
>The problem is that ultralight helmets only have the one cable for both
>intercom and headset so there are 5 wires. The stick grip I bought only
>has the one NO switch for intercom. Just wondering if there is a way I can
>still utilize the one button on the grip without having to go back to
>using the velcro attached button that has the two switches in it.
Does the NC switch turn on the intercom when the radio's not
transmitting? If so, you could wire the NO button on the stick to work a
relay that has both NC and NO contacts, and the relay switches the radio
and intercom.
-Dana
--
Ever notice the Secret Service and the Nazi SS have the same initials?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
Frank=2C
I have taken a few long distance X-country flight (several hundred miles
each). Most have been in my Cessna 172s that I used to own=2C but one was
with a group of guys flying to Arlington Airshow with two Quicksilver 2-pla
ces.
While crossing the mountain range to get close to Seattle=2C one of the Q
uicks threw a blade on the WarpDrive prop. Fortunately=2C there was an eme
rgency airstrip near the summit=2C and the pilot had enough altitude to gli
de in. We=2C the ground crew=2C drove to him=2C dissasembled the plane=2C
and rolled it into the trailer we were towing.
Luckily=2C this situation turned out to be a non-event (a two hour inconv
enience). Had this mishap occur over "rough terrain"=2C he would have been
S.O.L.!!!
On a couple of C-172 cross country's I've flown over "inhospitable" terra
in. If something happened that would have caused me to go down=2C it would
have taken days for a ground crew (or rescue) to get to me. High pucker f
actor. Didn't like it much.
My last x-country flight=2C from northern California to southern Utah=2C
by way of the southern route=2C was mostly over main freeways. I also flew
with "flight following" the whole way=2C with LA Center=2C and Las Vegas C
enter. HUGE comfort factor.
I said all that to say this=3B if I were going to fly x-country=2C and i
t was my first trip=2C and it was in an experimental airplane=2C I would no
t even consider anything but a route above major roads.
If=2C for whatever reason=2C you have to land the plane where you don't i
ntend=2C your retrieval could be a thousand times harder in rough terrian.
What could have been a simple dissambly=2C and roll into a trailer=2C may
now be a massively expensive=2C arduous rescue.
Ask our buddy Dennis how much a helicopter costs to go get your plane.
Other people may have a different take on x-country flights=2C but for me
=2C I'll stay with the highway routes when possible. Besides=2C why is it
a bad thing to fly your plane a little longer??
Just my thoughts.....
Mike Welch
MkIII CX
> From: frank.goodnight(at)att.net
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: flight plans
> Date: Mon=2C 18 Jan 2010 03:43:34 -0600
>
et>
>
>
> Hi all Kolbers=2C
>
> As i am still gearing up for=2C and trying to learn about my first long
> X country=2C I have a question for you that choose to fly long X
> countrys over lightly populated
> areas with sometimes rather harsh terrain.When on a trip do
> you file a flight plan with the FAA? If you do or if you don't would
> you please tell me your reasoning for your decision?
> FYI I have a cell phone =2C GPS and a SPOT brand personal locater
> that has tracking =2Ccheck in =2C I'm OK =2C and SOS features.
> Thanks
>
> Frank Goodnight
> Firestar 2
> Brownsville =2CTX
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft=92s powerful SPAM protection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Icom A6 PTT wiring |
| From: | "albertakolbmk3" <cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com> |
Dana,
That's a good idea... I'll have to check on that.
Thanks,
Tony
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282070#282070
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
Hi all Kolbers,
As i am still gearing up for, and trying to learn about my first long
X country, I have a question for you that choose to fly long X
countrys over lightly populated
areas with sometimes rather harsh terrain.When on a trip do
you file a flight plan with the FAA? If you do or if you don't would
you please tell me your reasoning for your decision?
FYI I have a cell phone , GPS and a SPOT brand personal locater
that has tracking ,check in , I'm OK , and SOS features.
Thanks
Frank Goodnight
Firestar 2
Brownsville ,TX
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Frank
I try to use a flight plan for this reason. If you don't check in at
the time you said you would arrive,,,, they send someone to look for you
right a way. If something happened, and you did not have cell coverage,
or you could not get the spot's buttons pushed or operating, due to damage
to the spot or you. Who would know.
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flight plans |
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
I am not much of a cross country pilot anymore, but here is what I liked to do
- Know the center sector frequency for whatever airspace you are in. If you have
a transponder and want flight following, that's ok, personally I don't much
like flying with constant FAA chatter in my ear.
But if you know what sector you are in, roll up on their frequency, make sure you
can hear the controller talking, and then turn the volume down and go back
to listening to your mp3 player. You will need to have some idea of sector boundaries
and when to change to the next frequency.
If the fan quits turning, turn up the radio volume, and if no one else is talking,
you do it just like in the movies: "Indy (whatever) Center, Mayday, mayday,
mayday. Homebuilt Nxxxx just had an engine failure, let me know when you are
ready to copy my position." And if you have a transponder, squawk 7700.
Believe me, you will have everybodies undivided attention. Because if the controller
misses it and fails to respond, you will almost certainly get some other
pilot asking about it (Center, did you hear that Mayday?). Which is what you
want.
While you are waiting for the center to reply, flip your gps to show your present
lat/longs. When center replies, read them off. Twice. If you know where you
are relative to a landmark on the sectional or whatever, that's good too. Between
that and your 7700 code, they will know where you are. (If you glide another
5 miles away from where you said, you better let somebody know...)
Then concentrate on flying the airplane, the feds can no longer help you. They
will ask you questions like souls on board, altitude, etc, and it's nice to have
that going on, but mostly you need to be flying the airplane.
There are probably other good ways to do it, and if you don't mind listening to
FAA chatter, active flight following is best, but after having spent 30 years
in the FAA, doing flight following and working various emergencies, that's how
I would do it.
PS: Worth what ya paid for it.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282077#282077
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flight plans |
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
Filing a flight plan is never a BAD idea, but a lot of people see it as an
inconvenience and/or hate to think they're relying on "big brother."
However, if you have a (bad) habit of not closing your plans, then you
should probably not open one. In your case, for this trip, it's probably a
good idea. (Note: if you land at a tiny, out-of-the-way airport and have no
cell signal, and there's no phone around, you could have a real problem.)
Flight following can be very useful and provide a comfort zone, but you have
to be high enough for your radio to contact them. This might preclude any
ideas about flying low.
Make sure you have plenty of experience using your SPOT, and that your email
goes to a wide variety of people, and that those people know what to look
out for (the SOS message).
You should also try to carry 2-days of water/food, an emergency blanket,
matches, duct tape, tie wraps, extra batteries for the GPS, and a
knife/tool-kit. There was once a downed pilot that wasn't too far off the
beaten track, but broke a leg and couldn't go anywhere, so, having those
essentials might help, even if you're following roads.
-- Robert
Houston, TX
On Mon, Jan 18, 2010 at 3:43 AM, frank.goodnight wrote:
> frank.goodnight(at)att.net>
>
>
> Hi all Kolbers,
>
> As i am still gearing up for, and trying to learn about my first long X
> country, I have a question for you that choose to fly long X countrys over
> lightly populated
> areas with sometimes rather harsh terrain.When on a trip do
> you file a flight plan with the FAA? If you do or if you don't would you
> please tell me your reasoning for your decision?
> FYI I have a cell phone , GPS and a SPOT brand personal locater that has
> tracking ,check in , I'm OK , and SOS features.
> Thanks
>
> Frank Goodnight
> Firestar 2
> Brownsville ,TX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flight plans |
Frank
I have flown a number of cross countries mostly in GA aircraft but some in
my MKIII. If you are concerned about someone finding you follow roads as
Mike suggests. The best way to have someone track you is to use flight
following. They watch your every move, mostly good, but they will also see
every mistake. The biggest problem with flight following is that is
optional. The controllers will follow only if they have time and have the
desire to follow. Flight plans work well if you follow the plan and remember
to close the plan. Way too often pilots forget to close them. Because of
this there may be some delay in searching for you.
Spot is good but never used one. The old ELTs work but had so many false
alarms the rescue people way too often ignored them. As soon as the new
frequencies and spots get popular I would guess they also will be ignored.
I have used flight following in my Kolb a few times but I generally fly
cross county without any of this stuff except for my cell phone. I have a
old ELT because it is required.
In Michigan we have a Lake Watch for crossing the great lakes which I will
no longer do. They require you to check in like every 5 minutes after you
establish the watch or they send a helicopter. Other areas of the country
may have watch areas such as mountain watches you can use. If you can't get
flight following the next best are the watch services.
Again worth what you paid for it.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net>
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 4:43 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: flight plans
>
>
>
> Hi all Kolbers,
>
> As i am still gearing up for, and trying to learn about my first long X
> country, I have a question for you that choose to fly long X countrys
> over lightly populated
> areas with sometimes rather harsh terrain.When on a trip do
> you file a flight plan with the FAA? If you do or if you don't would you
> please tell me your reasoning for your decision?
> FYI I have a cell phone , GPS and a SPOT brand personal locater that
> has tracking ,check in , I'm OK , and SOS features.
> Thanks
>
> Frank Goodnight
> Firestar 2
> Brownsville ,TX
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
Frank=2C
I failed to address your flight plan question. Yes! I would file a flig
ht plan. Be sure to open it=2C and also be sure to close it. Plus=2C don'
t forget to check in with ATC once in awhile=2C so they know your progress
along your route.
One important thing to remember regarding flight plans or flight followin
g: You do NOT have to wait for you to land to close it out! Usually=2C wh
e I have the airport in sight (maybe 10-15 minutes out)=2C I close my fligh
t following. You obviously "made it"=2C and don't need the service anymore
. Why wait until you get on the ground=2C get busy and have them hunt you
down?
I would also draw an exact route of your intended path on a sectional=2C
and leave a copy with a person on your SPOT email notification. Your cell
phone will not be of much value if you stray too far away from highways. T
he cell phone towers do NOT give you coverage out in the boondocks.
It's definitely a good idea to have some of the supplies Richard P. menti
oned. Like I said=2C if it were me=2C I'd chart my route along major roads
. In the event of a mishap=2C your landing may be on the road=2C your cell
phone will more likely work=2C your retrieval vehicle can drive right up t
o you=2C and help could be the next car to drive past you.
A mishap way out in the sticks will not have any of the above.
Mike Welch
> From: frank.goodnight(at)att.net
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: flight plans
> Date: Mon=2C 18 Jan 2010 03:43:34 -0600
>
et>
>
>
> Hi all Kolbers=2C
>
> As i am still gearing up for=2C and trying to learn about my first long
> X country=2C I have a question for you that choose to fly long X
> countrys over lightly populated
> areas with sometimes rather harsh terrain.When on a trip do
> you file a flight plan with the FAA? If you do or if you don't would
> you please tell me your reasoning for your decision?
> FYI I have a cell phone =2C GPS and a SPOT brand personal locater
> that has tracking =2Ccheck in =2C I'm OK =2C and SOS features.
> Thanks
>
> Frank Goodnight
> Firestar 2
> Brownsville =2CTX
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free=2C trusted and rich email service.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Some New FireFly Pages |
Kolbers,
I put up a couple of new pages.
Trying to adapt the Tillotson carburetor for in the cockpit air fuel
management. Tillotson carburetor description and modifications:
http://jackbhart.com/firefly/firefly153.html
Trying to save some weight with new starter and magneto kill switches:
http://jackbhart.com/firefly/firefly154.html
Experiencing a heat wave. Highs in the low 40's. A week of ground fog as
the snow slowly dissipates.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
I don't think I've filed a flight plan since I got my license, over 30
years ago. If you're just talking VFR flight plan, that's no different
from letting somebody know where you're going and when you should be
expected to arrive. I did some long cross countries in the T-Craft, but I
never had a radio so I couldn't use flight following or anything like that
anyway. In the Kolb I do have a radio, but I route my flights over areas
where I can make a safe landing... no long legs over the forest... and most
of Connecticut isn't exactly remote anyway.
-Dana
--
The missionaries go forth to Christianize the savages-- as if the savages
weren't dangerous enough already.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Some New FireFly Pages |
At 12:08 PM 1/18/2010, Jack B. Hart wrote:
>Trying to adapt the Tillotson carburetor for in the cockpit air fuel
>management. Tillotson carburetor description and modifications:
>
>http://jackbhart.com/firefly/firefly153.html
Jack, if the Tillotson carb already has high and low speed mixture screws,
why are you messing with pressure probes and mixing valve?
-Dana
--
The missionaries go forth to Christianize the savages-- as if the savages
weren't dangerous enough already.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flight plans |
Hi all,
Thanks to everyone that answered my request. Looks like I will file a
flight plan most of the time. Although I can still remember the 2
times I forgot to close, 35 years ago
just after I got my private.[ Red face and hung down head] It was bad
enough that I have never filed another one. Could be that as I am
older now and a little more settled may be that
I can remember the things that I have to do.
The Kolb list is a wonderful vehicle to access the wealth of
aviation knowledge that is out there , especially for very light A/
C.Thanks again to those that are willing to share.
I,m sure some of that knowledge was acquired the hard way.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar 2
On Jan 18, 2010, at 10:04 AM, b young wrote:
>
> Hi all Kolbers,
>
> As i am still gearing up for, and trying to learn about my first long
> X country, I have a question for you that choose to fly long X
> countrys over lightly populated
> areas with sometimes rather harsh terrain.When on a trip do
> you file a flight plan with the FAA? If you do or if you don't would
> you please tell me your reasoning for your decision?
> FYI I have a cell phone , GPS and a SPOT brand personal locater
> that has tracking ,check in , I'm OK , and SOS features.
> Thanks
>
> Frank Goodnight
> Firestar 2
> Brownsville ,TX
>
>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
> Frank
> I try to use a flight plan for this reason. If you don't check
> in at
> the time you said you would arrive,,,, they send someone to look
> for you
> right a way. If something happened, and you did not have cell
> coverage,
> or you could not get the spot's buttons pushed or operating, due to
> damage
> to the spot or you. Who would know.
>
> Boyd
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Some New FireFly Pages |
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2010 12:29:16 -0500
From: Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net>
>
..........................
Jack, if the Tillotson carb already has high and low speed mixture screws,
why are you messing with pressure probes and mixing valve?
>
Dana,
While I am at it I want to investigate both methods. I went mechanical
because I know it will work. During the ground testing, I have noticed that
the MZ 34 EGT has a tendency to float up a little when one closes the
throttle. This may be due to the vent position for the volume underneath
the fuel flow diaphragm. It is not a good static pressure vent.
The pneumatic system produced near constant EGT settings on the Bing 54 and
the Victor 1+. I want to see if it will work on the Tillotson and the MZ
34. If so, overall it will be much lighter than the mechanical system that
tweaks the needle jets.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rivets used in lexan installation |
Hi all,
While on the topic of rivets. What type of rivet is used to hold fabric on the
wing ribs etc? Is there a AN number?
Ray W.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282163#282163
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | OAT sensor location |
| From: | "albertakolbmk3" <cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com> |
Just getting my new GR EIS wired up and would like to know where others have put
the OAT sensor on the plane (if your using it). I would think that out of sunlight
and air movement would be best?
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282165#282165
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OAT sensor location |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Tony, out of the moving air is not a problem for a sensor or thermometer.
Wind chill isn't a factor since it gives an equivalent temperature on
exposed skin, unless you're using one of those "red neck" type sensors.
Rick Girard
On Mon, Jan 18, 2010 at 8:14 PM, albertakolbmk3 wrote:
> cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com>
>
> Just getting my new GR EIS wired up and would like to know where others
> have put the OAT sensor on the plane (if your using it). I would think that
> out of sunlight and air movement would be best?
>
> --------
> Tony B.
>
> Kolb MKIII C
> Rotax 582
> C Gearbox 3.00:1
> WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282165#282165
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rivets used in lexan installation |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Ray, attached is a picture of Poly Fibers fabric rivet. Spruce has them, but
you might be able to find the same thing at a better price at McMaster Carr
or other industrial supplier.
Rick Girard
On Mon, Jan 18, 2010 at 8:02 PM, rayw <rmwis@wi-net.com> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> While on the topic of rivets. What type of rivet is used to hold fabric on
> the wing ribs etc? Is there a AN number?
>
> Ray W.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282163#282163
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rivets used in lexan installation |
I feel much better using Poly Fiber Fabric Rivets on my airplane.
john h
mkIII
Ray, attached is a picture of Poly Fibers fabric rivet. Spruce has them,
but you might be able to find the same thing at a better price at
McMaster Carr or other industrial supplier.
Rick Girard
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Two Stroke Oil For Aircraft |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
...why do I suspect that the "new" oil is the old Pennzoil "air cooled 2-stroke
oil" in a new (and doubtless more expensive!) package?
Probably for the same reason I do.
Cynical Thom
Definition: A cynic is a realist who is unable to keep his mouth shut.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY
Kolb Slingshot SS-021
Jabiru 2200A #1574
Tennessee Prop 64x31
Write a wise saying and your name will live forever.
- Anonymous
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282201#282201
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Two Stroke Oil For Aircraft |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
The smoking gun will be the service grade, as usual ;). If it meets/exceeds API
TC, which is called for in many 2-strokes like the Rotaxen, it'll be good to
go.
Tho I'm very impressed with the Aeroshell 4-stroke oil (can't remember the API
service grade of it offhand). I just did my first oil change on the sport 4 plus
yesterday (47 hours) and my magnetic plug came out cleaner than I've ever seen
it. Tho it was always fine before using regular automotive oil, with the usual
light little bit of silt. This time it was slightly cleaner with a little
less silt. Perhaps the additives are doing a little bit extra to reduce wear?
Or perhaps this is just down in the noise of normal oil function, who knows ;).
OTOH, the oil was still greasy and very very black too, two indicators to me that
the oil is doing a really good job inside the motor.....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282206#282206
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flight plans |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
frank.goodnight(at)att.ne wrote:
> Hi all Kolbers,
>
> As i am still gearing up for, and trying to learn about my first long
> X country, I have a question for you that choose to fly long X
> countrys over lightly populated
> areas with sometimes rather harsh terrain.When on a trip do
> you file a flight plan with the FAA? If you do or if you don't would
> you please tell me your reasoning for your decision?
> FYI I have a cell phone , GPS and a SPOT brand personal locater
> that has tracking ,check in , I'm OK , and SOS features.
> Thanks
>
> Frank Goodnight
> Firestar 2
> Brownsville ,TX
I agree with others on flight following instead if you have a transponder.
A flight plan vs FF is a little like the difference between snail mail and email.
Both will do the job but the flight plan is a little clunkier. I.e.
VFR flight plan:
- someone realizes you're overdue
- people start making phone calls
- SAR is dispatched
- it's finally discovered you made it to dest. and forgot to close your flight
plan
- you get yelled at
- you possibly get cited with violations, etc.
Flight following:
- fan stops turning/other problem
- you: "Albuquerque center, 972SS just lost the engine, I'm a glider going down"
-ATC: "972SS Roger"
Boom, ATC has your position and altitude right there on the screen. The know which
dot to chase because of your squawk code. They know what happened and where
to look etc.
So to me, it's really a slam-dunk in favor of FF. Back when I flew GA I used FF
for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It's great because you're real-time integrated
into the ATC system for the major portion of your flight and they can respond
real-time to any kind of situation you could end up in during the trip.
If you take enough trips of any length it's worth it to fit a transponder and use
FF whether or not you file flight plans. I'm thinking about putting one in
the titan for this reason...
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282208#282208
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bing54 / Max height btw Fuel tank and Mikuni fuel pump |
| From: | "LageB" <lage.bystrom(at)glocalnet.net> |
Hello everybody ,
This is my first post here. I am so sorry I do not have any Kolb, but hope you
don't mind an outsider's questions. I found that my subjects has been up for
discussions on this Forum before and hope for great input from here.
Background
Last year I came over a "Hydrocopter" (built aro 1960) as a fun project. Installed used Rotax 532 engine with Bing 54 carburator. The combo can be seen in this link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qR6XSdwmnak
It was working fine aro 5-6 operating hours. Few weeks ago, it suddenly started
to loose rpms and eventually stopped. I could sometimes get the engine started
but never reaching top rpm and after 15-30 sec always stops.
- I opened up the carburator. Cleaned it, replaced Jets and needles etc.
(by the way, unbelievable thing, one needle looked like this:
http://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu162/LageB/Rotax%20532/DSCN0930.jpg ...)?
YES - after installing the fresh carburator the engine worked well again ... for
about 15 minutes.
In some occasions the plugs has been dry, other times, it seems the carburetor
was flooding as plugs were soaking wet.
I suppose I could have a combination of problem. For the process of eliminating
failure causes however, I want to find out whether the Mikuni impulse pump possibly
operating on/under its limits. I have around 40 inch lifting height on
my Hydrocopter. I can not move tank closer to the pump.
Maximum lifting height for the Mikuni
Does anybody here know official figure what is the maximum allowable height from
Fuel tank to the Mikuni fuel pump?
Looking at the Rotax installation manual page.15, it says that:
1. If fuel tank is "considerably" lower than pump, an electric pump should be used.
(unfortunately it does not specify what "considerably" is..)
2. Electric pump should be connected in parallel (with the impulse pump) to avoid
fuel pressure to be excessive
I think Rotax' above information is somewhat fuzzy and trying to understand Point
2 I hope someone here could clarify physics (a)-(b) as under:
(a) What is the resulting pressure in the case Pumps are installed in series:
- Is it "Pump pressure_1" + "Pump pressure_2" ??
(b) What is the Pressure in the case of parallel connection?
May I understand that, the pressure (after the pumps) are basically same as from
the the pump out of the two, that deliver the highest pressure for the moment?
( I guess the impulse pump's pressure varies with motor rpm)
So, for example, if assumption (a) is correct, I would have to make sure that the
Electric pump and Impulse pump combined at no time exceeds 7 psi.
If the problem is that the impulse pump is not capable of the lifting height in
the first place, then, would it not be more safe in that case just simply to
have one Electric pump bypassing the Mikuni ? That is, isn't it better making
sure I have one Electric pump strong enough that can fully cover pressure range
required for my application by itself, rather depending on a combination of
2 pumps where each pump individually possibly are insufficient?
Lage
Stockholm / Sweden
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282209#282209
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bing54 / Max height btw Fuel tank and Mikuni fuel pump |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
I don't know the specific answers to your (good) questions, but some thoughts I
have. Yes, 40" probably is too high for the pneumatic pump to lift fuel reliably.
The vacuum generated by the pump isn't a whole lot. So I'd say you're probably
in the "considerably" zone at that point ;)
An alternative to consider is a header tank located closer to the engine. You'd
have to come up with some kind of arrangement to keep the header tank full (feed
it with an electric pump and put some kind of fuel level regulation like a
float switch or something like that in the tank), but that would be a way to
get the fuel level raised to a place where the pneumatic pump could reliably draw
fuel.
Also make sure the pulse line from the engine to the pneumatic pump is as short
as possible. No longer than 12" at the max - too long of a pulse line is the
most common installation error I've seen that puts 2-planes down in the dirt than
anything else. This will ensure the pump is working as hard as it's supposed
to...
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282217#282217
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rivets used in lexan installation |
Thank you for your helpful replies. I am going to do a re-cover and don't have
much to go by. Any suggestions on fabric weight/type etc? It is a Twin star Mark
II
Ray W
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282229#282229
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rivets used in lexan installation |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Ray, Get a copy of the Poly Fiber manual before you do anything else and
read it thorougly. Pay particular attention to appendix A if you are weight
conscious about your project.
Rick Girard
On Tue, Jan 19, 2010 at 9:46 AM, rayw <rmwis@wi-net.com> wrote:
>
> Thank you for your helpful replies. I am going to do a re-cover and don't
> have much to go by. Any suggestions on fabric weight/type etc? It is a Twin
> star Mark II
>
> Ray W
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282229#282229
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
From: Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2010 07:24:53 -0800
....................
>
While crossing the mountain range to get close to Seattle, one of the Quicks
threw a blade on the WarpDrive prop.
>
.............
Mike,
What was the cause of failure?
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Aeroshell Sport Plus 4 |
Aircraft Spruce sells Aeroshell Sport Plus 4 for 7.95 a quart, or nearly
32.00 a gal.
I use Shell Rotella full synthetic in my 912ULS, at 17.00 a gal from
Wal-Mart.
That is about half the price of Aeroshell Sport Plus 4, plus there is still
a hefty tab to ship.
I started out using Mobil 1 full synthetic, then Castrol fll synthetic,
Valvoline synthetic blend, and finally Shell Rotella full synthetic when it
came on to the market.
I don't have any scientific observations. Have flown my three 912 series
engines for nearly 3,000 hours. I, honestly, can tell no difference in
performance/service between any of the synthetic oils I have used for the
past 16 years in my 912's.
I use Rotella, organic, in every 4 stroke I have except the Suzuki dirt
bike, Honda Rincon ATV, and Onan 5500 generator, which I use Rotella full
synthetic.
The 912ULS, Suzuki, and Honda Ricon, all use integral
engine/transmission/wet clutch. The Suzuki has 300 hours, the Rincon 3,500
miles, and the 912ULS over 400 hours. All operate perfectly. No problem
with clutch slippage.
Based on the short oil change cycle of the 912ULS, 25 to 50 hours, makes
sense to me to stick with the cheap oil.
BTW: My 1992 Dodge Cummins, which has spent its life pulling a 30' fifth
wheel (and double pulling the fifth wheel and utility trailer with dirt bike
and ATV) for over 367,000 miles, uses Shell Rotella organic oil. Wonder if
it would last longer on full synthetic??? ;-)
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bing54 / Max height btw Fuel tank and Mikuni fuel pump |
| From: | "LageB" <lage.bystrom(at)glocalnet.net> |
lucien wrote:
> I don't know the specific answers to your (good) questions, but some thoughts
I have. Yes, 40" probably is too high for the pneumatic pump to lift fuel reliably.
The vacuum generated by the pump isn't a whole lot. So I'd say you're probably
in the "considerably" zone at that point ;)
>
> An alternative to consider is a header tank located closer to the engine. LS
Thanks Lucien :)
I am inclined to think same, i.e that 40" is probably in the risk zone for the
Mikuni to suck & feed the Dual Bing 54 carbs
I have no space for a tank closer to the engine (it would have been best - I know).
So, for me the questions are:
(1) Is it some way to confirm that 40" indeed is too much?
(2) If too much. Then no choice. An electric pump must be installed. either
as:
- Stand alone ? -> If so, what pressure spec?
or,
- Series or parallel -> If so, what pressure specs (should be different
depending whether parallel or series connection - right?)
Since this is not an Aircraft, I am thinking to adopt Stand alone option (by-passing
the impulse pump) for simplicity.
Would a Automobile fuel pump 5.0 Psi, 130L/h work?
Lage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282248#282248
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bing54 / Max height btw Fuel tank and Mikuni fuel pump |
At 09:07 AM 1/19/2010, LageB wrote:
>It was working fine aro 5-6 operating hours. Few weeks ago, it suddenly
>started to loose rpms and eventually stopped. I could sometimes get the
>engine started but never reaching top rpm and after 15-30 sec always stops.
>- I opened up the carburator. Cleaned it, replaced Jets and needles etc.
>(by the way, unbelievable thing, one needle looked like this:
>http://i644.photobucket.com/albums/uu162/LageB/Rotax%20532/DSCN0930.jpg
>...)?
>
>YES - after installing the fresh carburator the engine worked well again
>... for about 15 minutes.
It could be that your engine is partially seized from lean mixture (not
enough fuel). When this happens, sometimes the engine seems to run fine
for a short time, then seizes again as it warms up. To check, you need to
pull the exhaust and look at the pistons through the exhaust ports.
>Maximum lifting height for the Mikuni
>Does anybody here know official figure what is the maximum allowable
>height from Fuel tank to the Mikuni fuel pump?
I believe 24" is the recommended maximum.
>I think Rotax' above information is somewhat fuzzy and trying to
>understand Point 2 I hope someone here could clarify physics (a)-(b) as
>under:
>
>(a) What is the resulting pressure in the case Pumps are installed in series:
>- Is it "Pump pressure_1" + "Pump pressure_2" ??
With an electric pump pushing fuel to a pulse pump, the final pressure will
be whichever pump is putting out the higher pressure, since the pulse
pump's output pressure is still limited to the available crankcase
pressure. If you had two electric pumps in series, it would be P1+P2.
>b) What is the Pressure in the case of parallel connection?
Whichever pump's pressure is higher.
A single electric pump with enough pressure (like the Facet) would probably
be fine.
Another thing to look for is air leaks in the fuel line... either inside
the tank so it starts to suck air after the fuel level drops, or it sucks
air at high rpm's and can't keep up with the engine's demand.
Looks like a fun toy btw.
-Dana
--
Can I deduct last years taxes as a bad investment?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bing54 / Max height btw Fuel tank and Mikuni fuel |
pump
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
>From CPS for Part #53 (?) Instructions for Mikuni fuel pumps. The full text
can be found here.
http://www.800-airwolf.com/pdffiles/ARTICLES/part%2053.PDF
"....you have to realize that the system does have limitations as far as
expected fuel pressure and the distance up hill the fuel can be expected to
rise. A vertical rise of no more than 39=94 can be accepted out of any puls
e
pump. Anything higher and count on deliver problems. Another thing to
remember is that the pulse pump is always limited to the pressures or
pumping value of the crankcase. With a pulse pump it is nearly impossible t
o
create too much pressure for the Carb float level. Also keep in mind that
the fuel pressure available will fall off as the crank seals and gaskets
being to leak over time."
I also looked at Mikuni's website. They have no info that I could find
anyway, but they do list a DF-62 fuel pump that delivers up to 62 liters pe
r
hour. The DF-35 pumps that most of use are rated at 35 liters per hour.
Rick Girard
On Tue, Jan 19, 2010 at 10:55 AM, LageB wrote:
>
>
> lucien wrote:
> > I don't know the specific answers to your (good) questions, but some
> thoughts I have. Yes, 40" probably is too high for the pneumatic pump to
> lift fuel reliably. The vacuum generated by the pump isn't a whole lot. S
o
> I'd say you're probably in the "considerably" zone at that point ;)
> >
> > An alternative to consider is a header tank located closer to the engin
e.
> LS
>
>
> Thanks Lucien :)
>
> I am inclined to think same, i.e that 40" is probably in the risk zone fo
r
> the Mikuni to suck & feed the Dual Bing 54 carbs
> I have no space for a tank closer to the engine (it would have been best
-
> I know). So, for me the questions are:
>
> (1) Is it some way to confirm that 40" indeed is too much?
>
> (2) If too much. Then no choice. An electric pump must be installed.
> either as:
> - Stand alone ? -> If so, what pressure spec?
> or,
> - Series or parallel -> If so, what pressure specs (should be
> different depending whether parallel or series connection - right?)
>
> Since this is not an Aircraft, I am thinking to adopt Stand alone option
> (by-passing the impulse pump) for simplicity.
> Would a Automobile fuel pump 5.0 Psi, 130L/h work?
>
>
> Lage
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282248#282248
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
> While crossing the mountain range to get close to Seattle=2C one of the Q
uicks
> threw a blade on the WarpDrive prop.
> >
> .............
>
> Mike=2C
>
> What was the cause of failure?
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Winchester=2C IN
Hi Jack=2C
I don't recall what caused the prop to lose a blade. To be honest=2C I d
on't think I ever knew the exact reason for the failure. I was more like a
bystander in the situation=2C than a participant.
A fellow student pilot and I were the ground crew for the two Quicksilver
2-placers. We drove the pickup and trailer that had the camping supplies
and fuel. It was a full enclosure trailer=2C to haul a plane=2C if it was
needed. Obviously=2C it turned out to be the case.
This incident was on our way to the 1994 Arlington Airshow. I do remembe
r that the Warp Drive people met with him (Dan=2C my instructor)=2C and I t
hink they got everything worked out okay. Even the Rotax people even got i
nvolved=2C due to the tremendous=2C violent shaking the engine experienced.
Both vendors were present at the airshow anyway=2C so they got to work im
mediately resolving the problem.
Mike Welch
MkIII
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bing54 / Max height btw Fuel tank and Mikuni fuel |
pump
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
I did some more poking around to look for more info on Mikuni fuel pumps.
For what it's worth I found that JC Whitney has all models of Mikuni fuel
pumps, even the three outlet version of the -35, at fairly reasonable
prices. They even have the -62 pump for $45.99 (less than CPS charges for a
-35), so if you need more fuel delivery there's a reasonable option.
Rick Girard
On Tue, Jan 19, 2010 at 12:19 PM, Richard Girard wrote
:
> From CPS for Part #53 (?) Instructions for Mikuni fuel pumps. The full te
xt
> can be found here.
>
> http://www.800-airwolf.com/pdffiles/ARTICLES/part%2053.PDF
>
> "....you have to realize that the system does have limitations as far as
> expected fuel pressure and the distance up hill the fuel can be expected
to
> rise. A vertical rise of no more than 39=94 can be accepted out of any pu
lse
> pump. Anything higher and count on deliver problems. Another thing to
> remember is that the pulse pump is always limited to the pressures or
> pumping value of the crankcase. With a pulse pump it is nearly impossible
to
> create too much pressure for the Carb float level. Also keep in mind that
> the fuel pressure available will fall off as the crank seals and gaskets
> being to leak over time."
>
> I also looked at Mikuni's website. They have no info that I could find
> anyway, but they do list a DF-62 fuel pump that delivers up to 62 liters
per
> hour. The DF-35 pumps that most of use are rated at 35 liters per hour.
>
> Rick Girard
>
> On Tue, Jan 19, 2010 at 10:55 AM, LageB wrote
:
>
>>
>>
>> lucien wrote:
>> > I don't know the specific answers to your (good) questions, but some
>> thoughts I have. Yes, 40" probably is too high for the pneumatic pump to
>> lift fuel reliably. The vacuum generated by the pump isn't a whole lot.
So
>> I'd say you're probably in the "considerably" zone at that point ;)
>> >
>> > An alternative to consider is a header tank located closer to the
>> engine. LS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks Lucien :)
>>
>> I am inclined to think same, i.e that 40" is probably in the risk zone f
or
>> the Mikuni to suck & feed the Dual Bing 54 carbs
>> I have no space for a tank closer to the engine (it would have been best
>> - I know). So, for me the questions are:
>>
>> (1) Is it some way to confirm that 40" indeed is too much?
>>
>> (2) If too much. Then no choice. An electric pump must be installed.
>> either as:
>> - Stand alone ? -> If so, what pressure spec?
>> or,
>> - Series or parallel -> If so, what pressure specs (should be
>> different depending whether parallel or series connection - right?)
>>
>> Since this is not an Aircraft, I am thinking to adopt Stand alone option
>> (by-passing the impulse pump) for simplicity.
>> Would a Automobile fuel pump 5.0 Psi, 130L/h work?
>>
>>
>> Lage
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282248#282248
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bing54 / Max height btw Fuel tank and Mikuni fuel |
pump
At 01:19 PM 1/19/2010, Richard Girard wrote:
>..."Another thing to remember is that the pulse pump is always limited to
>the pressures or pumping value of the crankcase. With a pulse pump it is
>nearly impossible to create too much pressure for the Carb float level..."
Almost correct... or correct if the proper float needle and seat are
used. Gravity feed systems use a larger needle and seat. If a pump is
used with the large needle/seat, the pump will push fuel right past the
needle and the engine will flood.
-Dana
--
Can I deduct last years taxes as a bad investment?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flight plans |
Mike W/Gang:
I too, was at 1994 Arlington Flyin. Had just gotten back into the Lower
48 from Alaska.
Bob, with Warp Drive, was there. He helped me do some field repairs to
my three Warp Drive Blades with JB Weld. I had flown in a lot of heavy
rain which caused erosion just inboard the nickle steel leading edges.
At that time 11" edges were max. Now we have 15" edges which cover the
area that was subject to rain erosion.
Larry Bourne was also there. He reminded me that I didn't think it was
a good idea for him to try on my MKIII for size. I don't remember the
incident, but do remember I still had a long way to fly to get back home
to Alabama, by way of the northern, eastern perimeter of CONUS, and the
west coast of Florida.
And to keep this comment relative to the subject line, no, I do not file
flight plans with FAA while flying in CONUS. However, I do flight
follow with friend or family in Alabama and Florida.
john h
mkIII
This incident was on our way to the 1994 Arlington Airshow. I do
remember that the Warp Drive people met with him (Dan, my instructor),
and I think they got everything worked out okay. Even the Rotax people
even got involved, due to the tremendous, violent shaking the engine
experienced. Both vendors were present at the airshow anyway, so they
got to work immediately resolving the problem.
Mike Welch
MkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bing54 / Max height btw Fuel tank and Mikuni fuel pump |
| From: | "LageB" <lage.bystrom(at)glocalnet.net> |
Why are new threads on same subject posted ?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282304#282304
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lanny Fetterman <donaho1(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | How often do you rebuild your Mikuni Fuel pump? |
Hi All, When I flew the Quicksilver MX, I had an in flight fuel pump
failure. The MX used the Mikuni, rectangular pump. After that failure, I
started rebuilding it every other flying season. The little flapper valves
always looked wrinkled and in need of replacement. When I built the
Firestar II it called for the dual round Mikuni pump. I continued with my
bi-annual fuel pump rebuild, however, the parts I replaced always looked
like new. I am thinking a rebuild every other year is overkill. Any
thoughts before I order a rebuild kit? Thanks in advance. Lanny
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aeroshell Sport Plus 4 |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi John,
It's been a while.
Just a comment. The oils used in a Rotax should be motorcycle oil because the engine
oil is also the gearbox oil like in a motorcycle and has addition additives
just for the gears in the gearbox.
Rotax has a new "Line Maint" manual out. Rotax has changed several things and not
just a sentence or two. It is on line and they have made some significant changes
on the oil and plugs. Actually everyone should download a copy. 91 oct.
users can use full synthetic, but people who use a lot of 100LL (more than 30%
of the time) should be using a semi synthetic. Dino oil is just barley ok. The
synthetics can handle more extremes on all ends of the usage spectrum (i.e.
temps, pressures, shears and the ability to stay on parts). Full synthetic will
not suspend the lead in 100LL and it falls out in the crankcase and gearbox.
p.s.
We do a Fly-In for Monument Valley, Grand Canyon, Lake Powell, Bryce and Zion,
but we do it in October and have 30 aircraft that attend. We use Page as a base
because of the parking and facilities. Hotels are $49 and food is catered.
We do a dam and Antelope canyon day tour as well. They are all LSA except maybe
1-2. This year it is Oct. 14th-18th.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282316#282316
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bing54 / Max height btw Fuel tank and Mikuni fuel pump |
| From: | "LageB" <lage.bystrom(at)glocalnet.net> |
My apologies Rick Nielsen,
Kindly bear with me further (just in this thread) and I will be out of here after
this thread
To Dana:
Many thanks for good advices. I will follow your recommendation and pull exhaust
to check any damage :(
May I understand you so, that in case "El.pump + Puls.pump" combination, the resulting
pressure will be whichever pump's pressure is higher, actually regardless
whether I connect in series or parallel?
If so, Rotax' choice of words are somewhat misleading when they say that pumps
should be connected in parallel to avoid excessive pressure....
To Rickofudall:
Thanks a lot for informative links
LageB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282323#282323
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bing54 / Max height btw Fuel tank and Mikuni fuel |
pump
At 05:50 PM 1/19/2010, LageB wrote:
>May I understand you so, that in case "El.pump + Puls.pump" combination,
>the resulting pressure will be whichever pump's pressure is higher,
>actually regardless whether I connect in series or parallel?
>If so, Rotax' choice of words are somewhat misleading when they say that
>pumps should be connected in parallel to avoid excessive pressure....
I could be wrong, just going on theory here, but the way I see the pressure
from a pulse pump in series with an upstream electric pump is not
additive. Here's how I see it, feel free to knock holes in the theory:
Fuel is drawn into the pulse pump chamber when crankcase vacuum pulls on
the diaphragm and the inlet check valve opens, or the upstream electric
pump pushes it in. When the piston moves down and creates crankcase
pressure, that pressure is transmitted to the diaphragm and in turn to the
fuel in the pump chamber, and only if it's greater than the electric pump
pressure does the inlet check valve opens. At the point there is no
connection to the fuel upstream of the pulse pump, so the only thing
pushing fuel to the carburetor is the diaphragm... as if the electric pump
didn't exist.
If the electric pump creates a greater pressure than the pulse pump can,
the inlet check valve will never close at all, and the fuel pressure in the
pump chamber will push back on the diaphragm so that it never moves, and
it's as if the pulse pump didn't exist.
Either way, the pressures don't add.
The pulse pump doesn't create a differential pressure between intake and
outlet; it creates first a vacuum, then an outlet pressure... not at the
same time so they're not related. I'm familiar with the internal workings
of a Facet pump, but if (like most electric rotary pumps) it creates a
continuous differential pressure, then if you put the electric pump
_downstream_ of the pulse pump, the pressures WILL add.
Yes, I know we're not talking directly about a Kolb here, but many of our
Kolbs have an identical fuel system so I see it as "Kolb related."
-Dana
--
2000 mockingbirds = two kilomockingbirds
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aeroshell Sport Plus 4 |
Hi Roger L/Gang:
I have had excellent service from the oils I use in my 912ULS engines.
Frequent gear box inspections indicate zero wear. Can't get much better
than that.
I find Shell Rotella Full Synthetic does as good a job with lead as
Valvoline Durablend, based on my own inspections during frequent oil
changes. I have less lead residue in the bottom of the oil tank with
Rotella than with Durablend and other oils I have used in the past on this
and the other two 912s I have had.
Motor oil does a great job of lubricating gears, whether it says "motor
cycle" on the can or not. I put over 300,000 miles on a Getrag 5 speed
behind my Cummins pulling 5th wheel most of those miles. Not bad.
Recommended lube is 5W30 motor oil. Really thin stuff.
I addressed clutch slippage in my previous post. No problem with Rotax,
Honda, or Suzuki wet clutches.
Until tonight when I read the SI on the Rotax site, I thought Aero Shell
Sport Plus 4 was full synthetic. When I found out it was a blend, 8.00 a
quart seems even more like highway robbery.
I also took note that most of the stuff Rotax recommends to use, or not to
use, is based on field experience, not manufacturers testing. That is also
what I base my decisions on. That is how Rotax established TBO's, which are
recommendations only.
I don't tell others what to use, only share what I do. Other folks can make
up their own mind.
I made it a point to be at the flyin at Monument Valley last October. Drove
down from Moab to spend the weekend and hopefully meet up with you and
others of like interest. However, when I got there, it turned out to be a
powered parachute/para glider flyin. Not a single fixed wing. Didn't know
you all were basing out of Page or I would have stopped in there. Instead,
I left MV and met Mike and Jan Marker at Hanksville, who were camped out at
the airport. Mike flew in with his Murphy Rebel and Jan drove the motor
home. They stayed a week, I stayed with them for the weekend.
Not much fun to go to a flyin without an airplane. If I had had a powered
parachute, I would have had more fun at MV.
Is your flyin restricted??? Do you all camp or stay in the hotel? Is this
an LSA Only Flyin and Around?
We'll be back at Monument Valley next May in the mkIII. Everyone is
welcome, if you can stand it. ;-)
Flew in a T shirt this afternoon. Had a ball. Weather was perfect. First
flight with my new ICOM A6. I can hear again. It has much more volume,
plus adjustable volume on the side tone. Side tone that actually works. I
can hear!!!
john h
mkIII - 2,985.0 hours
912ULS - 416.5 hours
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How often do you rebuild your Mikuni Fuel pump? |
I am thinking a rebuild every other year is overkill. Any
> thoughts before I order a rebuild kit? Thanks in advance. Lanny
Lanny/Gang:
I guess you could stretch it to three years if two years is an overkill.
Let us know if you have a fuel pump failure between two and three years.
;-)
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OAT sensor location |
| From: | "albertakolbmk3" <cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com> |
Rick, could you elaborate on that a little more. Not sure what you mean when you
say an equivalent temperature on exposed skin. The probe is about 1 inch long
and about 1/4" diameter. I have an existing hole just behind the passenger
door. I was going to stick it through there and silicone it in. It would protrude
about 1 inch.
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282408#282408
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Best way to cut lexan |
| From: | "albertakolbmk3" <cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com> |
What is the best way to cut lexan. Knife, bandsaw, jigsaw. I'm just about ready
to to start cutting my new lexan... never done it before. Any advice would be
appreciated.
Tony
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282410#282410
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: OAT sensor location |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
>From Wikipedia: *Wind chill* is the apparent
temperature<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Felt_air_temperature> felt
on exposed skin <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skin> due to wind.
http://www.nws.noaa.gov/om/windchill/
<http://www.nws.noaa.gov/om/windchill/>Notice the various caveats about how
the wind chill is determined, all relating to human skin. If your
thermometer is dry, i.e. nothing to carry heat away, it does not know if the
wind is blowing or not. Notice also the caveat about sunlight, this does
relate to your thermometer since, like skin, the material the probe is made
of will absorb radiant energy and that will effect the reading it displays.
Rick Girard
On Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 4:10 AM, albertakolbmk3 wrote:
> cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com>
>
> Rick, could you elaborate on that a little more. Not sure what you mean
> when you say an equivalent temperature on exposed skin. The probe is about 1
> inch long and about 1/4" diameter. I have an existing hole just behind the
> passenger door. I was going to stick it through there and silicone it in. It
> would protrude about 1 inch.
>
> --------
> Tony B.
>
> Kolb MKIII C
> Rotax 582
> C Gearbox 3.00:1
> WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282408#282408
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut lexan |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
>From GE:
Lexan=AE polycarbonate sheet products can be cut
and sawn easily and accurately using standard
workshop equipment. Circular saws, band saws,
jig saws and common hacksaws can all be used
successfully. However, certain important guide-lines
should be followed. General guide-lines are listed
below with specific recommendations outlined in
each cutting section.
- The sheet must always be securely clamped
to avoid undesirable vibration and rough cut
edges.
- All tools should be set for cutting plastics with
fine toothed panel blades.
- The protective masking should be left on the
sheet to prevent scratching and other surface
damage.
- When finishing the edges of all Lexan sheet
products should be clean and free of notches.
- If possible swarf and dust build-up should be
blown away with a compressed air supply.
NOTE: Lexan is often used as a generic term. It is not, it's a specific
formula of polycarbonate, which IS the generic. Whatever you buy, if it
doesn't say Lexan on the covering paper, get that manufacturers cutting
recommendations as some formulations are more brittle than others.
Rick Girard
On Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 4:15 AM, albertakolbmk3 w
rote:
> cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com>
>
> What is the best way to cut lexan. Knife, bandsaw, jigsaw. I'm just about
> ready to to start cutting my new lexan... never done it before. Any advic
e
> would be appreciated.
>
> Tony
>
> --------
> Tony B.
>
> Kolb MKIII C
> Rotax 582
> C Gearbox 3.00:1
> WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282410#282410
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bing54 / Max height btw Fuel tank and Mikuni fuel pump |
| From: | "LageB" <lage.bystrom(at)glocalnet.net> |
Dana wrote:
>
> If the electric pump creates a greater pressure than the pulse pump can, the
inlet check valve will never close at all, and the fuel pressure in the pump
chamber will push back on the diaphragm so that it never moves, and it's as if
the pulse pump didn't exist.
>
> Either way, the pressures don't add.
> ....
Dana, I am not quoting your complete explanations as above, I just want to say..
absolutely fabulous! I have vacuumed the net on Mikuni-El.Pump interaction
phenomena, but I have never seen this explained before. It makes perfect sense
to me. For many Rotax (& Kolb) users (incl Rotax themselves as seems?) it must
be rather valuable information that pump pressures would not add in case of
series connection. For example in my case, I was just about to select booster
pump "just to help" the Mikuni - assuming pressures would be added. But, now
I clearly understand that, if the original problem is too high lifting height,
-then, it is vital that the electric Pump (intalled prior Mikuni) MUST have
pressure sufficient, by itself, to cope with full requirement of the double Bings.
Of course it is good thing for the redundancy as well. May I assume, also,
that this fact eliminates need of pressure reducers, as long
as electric pump is within limit of Bing 54 (max 7Psi) ?
Again thanks a lot for kind patience to all Kolb friends
LageB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282417#282417
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sada <phoenix(at)ja2.so-net.ne.jp> |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut lexan |
Hi Kolbers
Just adds my fragment.
Ultrasonic cutter also available with easy and clean way.
Here is Youtube demo.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QaejhHMbH0Y
And one of Ad.
http://www.nalex.co.jp/e-cutter.html
Really like a cake.
But counter is expensive.
On 2010/01/20, at 19:53, Richard Girard wrote:
> >=46rom GE:
> Lexan=AE polycarbonate sheet products can be cut
> and sawn easily and accurately using standard
> workshop equipment. Circular saws, band saws,
> jig saws and common hacksaws can all be used
> successfully. However, certain important guide-lines
> should be followed. General guide-lines are listed
> below with specific recommendations outlined in
> each cutting section.
> - The sheet must always be securely clamped
> to avoid undesirable vibration and rough cut
> edges.
> - All tools should be set for cutting plastics with
> fine toothed panel blades.
> - The protective masking should be left on the
> sheet to prevent scratching and other surface
> damage.
> - When finishing the edges of all Lexan sheet
> products should be clean and free of notches.
> - If possible swarf and dust build-up should be
> blown away with a compressed air supply.
>
> NOTE: Lexan is often used as a generic term. It is not, it's a
> specific formula of polycarbonate, which IS the generic. Whatever
> you buy, if it doesn't say Lexan on the covering paper, get that
> manufacturers cutting recommendations as some formulations are more
> brittle than others.
>
> Rick Girard
>
> On Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 4:15 AM, albertakolbmk3
> wrote:
>
>
> What is the best way to cut lexan. Knife, bandsaw, jigsaw. I'm just
> about ready to to start cutting my new lexan... never done it
> before. Any advice would be appreciated.
>
> Tony
>
> --------
> Tony B.
>
> Kolb MKIII C
> Rotax 582
> C Gearbox 3.00:1
> WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282410#282410
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aeroshell Sport Plus 4 |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
Oops, didn't mean to inadvertantly restart the oil war with my comments on the
Aeroshell.
I was only commenting that my results with it on the first oil change were at least
as good as I'd gotten with my other choice that I'd used before (Valvoline
synth blend) and not that it was better.
It should be noted that, as far as the API grading system is concerned, both the
valvoline and rotella oils actually exceed the Aeroshell (both of those are
at grade SM now I believe; aeroshell is SL). Go figure.
All far, far exceed the API grade required by Rotax (SG).
I'm agnostic about additives, the important things are the weight and the API service
grade (minus specific recommendations for or against a particular blend
by Rotax of course).
I flew a PPC for about 50 hours before having to sell it for space/moving out of
TX/financial reasons. They're great fun as long as there's no wind. A 10 to
20NM cross-country in a PPC is a magical experience. Again as long as there's
no wind - a PPC would be grounded virtually all the time here in northern NM.
As the planes get lighter and slower here, the flying season tends to get shorter
and shorter, a small window in the middle of winter. 912 class planes can
fly mostly year round plus or minus the bravery and skill of the pilot. Spring/summer
are good times for the plane to be down for maintenance, fall and winter
are magical especially for trips.
Still trying to get to Questa before the flying season starts to wind down - snowstorms
all this week and when the WX is good I'm at the office....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282426#282426
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Best way to cut lexan |
> What is the best way to cut lexan. Knife=2C bandsaw=2C jigsaw. I'm just a
bout ready to to start cutting my new lexan... never done it before. Any ad
vice would be appreciated.
>
> Tony
Tony=2C
I cut Lexan with my handheld Makita grinder=2C with a 1/16" thick cut-off
blade. By using this method=2C the only thing that touches the surface is
just the blade. That way you don't risk scratching the Lexan's surface in
the cutting process (like with the base of the saw).
I find there is a "sweet spot" in the cutting speed. Too slow=2C and you
melt the Lexan=2C which leaves a LOT of cleanup with a handheld sander. T
oo fast=2C and the cut is quite rough. Again=2C more work with the sander.
By practicing on a scrap piece of Lexan=2C you'll see what I mean. Findi
ng the right speed to make the cut leaves just a small job of sanding clean
-up.
Undoubtedly=2C there are other ways to cut Lexan=2C but that method works
best for me.
Mike Welch
MkIII CX
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft=92s powerful SPAM protection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Aeroshell Sport Plus 4 |
| From: | "Roger Lee" <ssadiver1(at)yahoo.com> |
Our Fly-In at Page in Oct.14-18 is open to any one although 98% is LSA. We had
30 aircraft last year and expect more this year. We are always growing. We all
stay in a hotel Best Western Arizona Inn for $49 a night. Out meals are catered
at the Ranch House Grill. They close and give the entire restaurant to us.
We usually have 70 plus people. We are given a large ramp space at the Page airport
just for us. Most of the planes are Flight Design CT's, but we have RV's,
Rans, Husky, Sirrus, maybe a Cessna. We usually have out of the total maybe
5 other types of aircraft. We do fly-In breakfast in Bryce, we fly south over
the Grand Canyon. We all are very friendly not clicks or groups and everyone is
very helpful and considerate of the others. We change dinning tables at night
to meet people from around the country. It's a great time everyone always comes
back plus we continue to grow. I already have 40 rooms reserved at the Best
Western. We usually have 5-6 planes show up with only the pilot so there is
usually open seats. Lots of wives come. We do a lot of formation flying for some
great pictures and video. Weather is better than May because it's not so hot,
about 71-74F during the day and 50-55F at night. I have never been around a
nicer group of people.
We have another Fly-In May 13-16 at Columbia, CA. We have spot land contest, bomb
drop, BBQ's at the clubhouse, fly out breakfast, another fun trip. Again most
of these guys are LSA or experimental.
--------
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Light Sport Repairman - Maintenance Rated
Rotax Repair Center
520-574-1080
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282462#282462
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut lexan |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut lexan |
I use aviation tin snips. Works really easy on 1/16" polycarbonate. A
little tougher on 1/8". Finish edges with mill file and sand paper.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut lexan |
I have also used tin snips with good success. I wouldn't recommend doing
this when the lexan is cold, its seems to get brittle. Again cold is a
relative term. Florida cold 50-60 might be fine. Michigan cold 0 degrees or
less you might have problems getting a good cut.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Best way to cut lexan
>
>
> I use aviation tin snips. Works really easy on 1/16" polycarbonate. A
> little tougher on 1/8". Finish edges with mill file and sand paper.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuel system layout |
| From: | "albertakolbmk3" <cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com> |
Your opinions would be appreciated.
The original owner had a valve to switch between tanks I want to eliminate that.
Also, with it set up like this do I still need to use the primer bulb he has
installed. I have remote chokes. Just trying to work on the KISS principal.
Tony
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282505#282505
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/scan01202010_081733_medium_153.bmp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rotax mag/starter issue |
| From: | "albertakolbmk3" <cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com> |
Has anyone else heard of an issue with the mag switch being on the same switch
as the starter. I was told this by a friend. Something to do with there being
enough juice to arc across the contacts and engage the starter during flight.
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282510#282510
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OAT sensor location |
At 05:10 AM 1/20/2010, albertakolbmk3 wrote:
>... could you elaborate on that a little more. Not sure what you mean when
>you say an equivalent temperature on exposed skin.
Wind chill only applies when you're talking about the temperature of a body
that's hotter than the air... moving air draws heat away faster than still
air so it seems colder. There are also effects from evaporation of sweat.
A thermometer isn't heated internally, so it will be at the same
temperature as the air so there is no wind chill effect... in fact if it's
in fast moving air it will respond more quickly than if it was in still air.
I would mount the thermometer anywhere that it won't get bumped.
-Dana
--
I'm from the IRS. The government has spent all your tax money. Could we
please have some more?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
At 01:21 PM 1/20/2010, albertakolbmk3 wrote:
>The original owner had a valve to switch between tanks I want to eliminate
>that. Also, with it set up like this do I still need to use the primer
>bulb he has installed. I have remote chokes. Just trying to work on the
>KISS principal.
If you have a battery to run the electric fuel pump, or if you have a
primer, then you don't need a squeeze bulb (primer bulbs are evil).
If you have oil injection on your 582, then I don't see the need for a fuel
selector valve. If you use premix, valves important if you ever mix right
in the fuel tank; you don't want any crossflow until the oil is thoroughly
mixed. I like individual on/off valves for each tank; normally you fly
with both open but you can shut one off if there's a reason to.
-Dana
--
I'm from the IRS. The government has spent all your tax money. Could we
please have some more?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How often do you rebuild your Mikuni Fuel pump? |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15(at)juno.com> |
I have gone over 7 years without a pump replacement (rectangular). They are reliable
and this is a good thing. During the last 3 years, I switched to a round
Mikuni dual pump and tied the output lines together. I don't have any plans to
change it.
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar 447
N91493 E-AB
1000 hours
23 years flying it
Kolbra 912UL
N20386
2 years flying it
120 hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282521#282521
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pilot Cert Expiring ( Paper ) March 2010 |
| From: | "planecrazzzy" <planecrazzzy(at)yahoo.com> |
.
.
They sent me my "Plastic" card in a week.... Free
.
.
Gotta Fly...
Mike & "Jaz" the Flying Dog
.
.
.
--------
.
.
.
.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282529#282529
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/windscreen_tubing_010_518.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Tony, I plumbed my fuel system with stock plastic tanks and top taps. There
is no balance line between the tanks so I run a selector valve. I have the
fuel gauge sender in the tank behind me since I cannot see it in flight. I
run off the left tank first until it's down to a gallon or so, then switch
to the right tank with the gauge.
For what it's worth.
Rick Girard
On Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 12:21 PM, albertakolbmk3
wrote:
> cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com>
>
> Your opinions would be appreciated.
>
> The original owner had a valve to switch between tanks I want to eliminate
> that. Also, with it set up like this do I still need to use the primer bulb
> he has installed. I have remote chokes. Just trying to work on the KISS
> principal.
>
> Tony
>
> --------
> Tony B.
>
> Kolb MKIII C
> Rotax 582
> C Gearbox 3.00:1
> WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282505#282505
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/scan01202010_081733_medium_153.bmp
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
Tony,
I have a 2 tank firestar 2. I have never liked the top draw system, I
am NOT trying to say there is something wrong with it , or that any
one should change it, just that I
personally don't like it. At my auto store I found an all metal tire
valve that is made similar to a through bulkhead fitting. I removed
the [guts] , made a gasket of silicone ,cut a hole
in the bottom of each tank and mounted the valves. I connected the
valves together with tubing , and with a tee between them , then
connected the tee to the facet pump [it is also is lower than
the tanks]. The fuel level in both tanks stays the same and all but
about a quart of fuel is usable, assuming I can keep the plane level.
No on off valves in the entire sys.
Once again ,taking a page from John Hs book I'm not suggesting
that this is the way things should be done, only that this is how i
did it. About 100 hrs on this sys. No problems.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar 2
Brownsville , TX
On Jan 20, 2010, at 1:30 PM, Richard Girard wrote:
> Tony, I plumbed my fuel system with stock plastic tanks and top
> taps. There is no balance line between the tanks so I run a selector
> valve. I have the fuel gauge sender in the tank behind me since I
> cannot see it in flight. I run off the left tank first until it's
> down to a gallon or so, then switch to the right tank with the gauge.
> For what it's worth.
>
> Rick Girard
>
> On Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 12:21 PM, albertakolbmk3 > wrote:
> >
>
> Your opinions would be appreciated.
>
> The original owner had a valve to switch between tanks I want to
> eliminate that. Also, with it set up like this do I still need to
> use the primer bulb he has installed. I have remote chokes. Just
> trying to work on the KISS principal.
>
> Tony
>
> --------
> Tony B.
>
> Kolb MKIII C
> Rotax 582
> C Gearbox 3.00:1
> WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282505#282505
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/scan01202010_081733_medium_153.bmp
>
>
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> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel system layout |
Frank=2C
I like the description of your fuel system. Your's sounds very similar
to mine.
One minor difference between our systems is I have a petcock at the lowes
t point of the tubing=2C to allow for a quick drain of moisture in the fuel
.
You didn't mention that you can accomodate for moisture drainage. Do you
have a way to drain off any water/crud in your fuel system?
Mike Welch
From: frank.goodnight(at)att.net
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel system layout
Date: Wed=2C 20 Jan 2010 17:51:57 -0600
Tony=2C
I have a 2 tank firestar 2. I have never liked the top draw system=2C I am
NOT trying to say there is something wrong with it =2C or that any one shou
ld change it=2C just that I
personally don't like it. At my auto store I found an all metal tire valve
that is made similar to a through bulkhead fitting. I removed the [guts]
=2C made a gasket of silicone =2Ccut a hole
in the bottom of each tank and mounted the valves. I connected the valves t
ogether with tubing =2C and with a tee between them =2C then connected the
tee to the facet pump [it is also is lower than
the tanks]. The fuel level in both tanks stays the same and all but about a
quart of fuel is usable=2C assuming I can keep the plane level. No on off
valves in the entire sys.
Once again =2Ctaking a page from John Hs book I'm not suggesting that t
his is the way things should be done=2C only that this is how i did it. Abo
ut 100 hrs on this sys. No problems.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar 2
Brownsville =2C TX
On Jan 20=2C 2010=2C at 1:30 PM=2C Richard Girard wrote:
Tony=2C I plumbed my fuel system with stock plastic tanks and top taps. The
re is no balance line between the tanks so I run a selector valve. I have t
he fuel gauge sender in the tank behind me since I cannot see it in flight.
I run off the left tank first until it's down to a gallon or so=2C then sw
itch to the right tank with the gauge.
For what it's worth.
Rick Girard
On Wed=2C Jan 20=2C 2010 at 12:21 PM=2C albertakolbmk3 wrote:
>
Your opinions would be appreciated.
The original owner had a valve to switch between tanks I want to eliminate
that. Also=2C with it set up like this do I still need to use the primer bu
lb he has installed. I have remote chokes. Just trying to work on the KISS
principal.
Tony
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66"=3B 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282505#282505
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
At 06:51 PM 1/20/2010, frank.goodnight wrote:
>Tony,
>I have a 2 tank firestar 2. I have never liked the top draw system, I am
>NOT trying to say there is something wrong with it , or that any one
>should change it, just that I
>personally don't like it. At my auto store I found an all metal tire
>valve that is made similar to a through bulkhead fitting. I removed the
>[guts] , made a gasket of silicone ,cut a hole...
Only problem I see is the silicone gasket... mixing silicone with gasoline
is bad news.
-Dana
--
"Naked" means you ain't got no clothes on; "nekkid" means you ain't got
no clothes on - and are up to somethin'.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
Hi Mike ,
I don't have a moisture trap or drain. Have never had a water problem,
apparently plastic tanks don't condense as much as metal tanks. I do
keep the tanks
full most of the time. I plan to make a sump with drain some time in
the future.[ before the trip to MV this spring] Should have already
done it , lazy & too much procrastination . When I do, I think I will
tie in a loop of fuel line and bring it forward so it can be used as a
sight gage. Too old and too fat to twist around and see how much fuel
is left, I use a mirror but it is not the
best sys. Don't know anything about the electric fuel gages , they may
be a better option.
FYI when I changed to the marine fuel tubing [alcohol resistant] I
did trap the fuel & checked it , clean and dry. About 30 hrs ago.
same small auto store fuel filter for about 100 hrs.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar 2
Brownsville , TX
On Jan 20, 2010, at 6:42 PM, Mike Welch wrote:
> Frank,
>
> I like the description of your fuel system. Your's sounds very
> similar to mine.
>
> One minor difference between our systems is I have a petcock at
> the lowest point of the tubing, to allow for a quick drain of
> moisture in the fuel.
>
> You didn't mention that you can accomodate for moisture drainage.
> Do you have a way to drain off any water/crud in your fuel system?
>
> Mike Welch
>
> From: frank.goodnight(at)att.net
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel system layout
> Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 17:51:57 -0600
>
> Tony,
> I have a 2 tank firestar 2. I have never liked the top draw system,
> I am NOT trying to say there is something wrong with it , or that
> any one should change it, just that I
> personally don't like it. At my auto store I found an all metal
> tire valve that is made similar to a through bulkhead fitting. I
> removed the [guts] , made a gasket of silicone ,cut a hole
> in the bottom of each tank and mounted the valves. I connected the
> valves together with tubing , and with a tee between them , then
> connected the tee to the facet pump [it is also is lower than
> the tanks]. The fuel level in both tanks stays the same and all but
> about a quart of fuel is usable, assuming I can keep the plane
> level. No on off valves in the entire sys.
> Once again ,taking a page from John Hs book I'm not suggesting
> that this is the way things should be done, only that this is how i
> did it. About 100 hrs on this sys. No problems.
> Frank Goodnight
> Firestar 2
> Brownsville , TX
>
>
> On Jan 20, 2010, at 1:30 PM, Richard Girard wrote:
>
> Tony, I plumbed my fuel system with stock plastic tanks and top
> taps. There is no balance line between the tanks so I run a selector
> valve. I have the fuel gauge sender in the tank behind me since I
> cannot see it in flight. I run off the left tank first until it's
> down to a gallon or so, then switch to the right tank with the gauge.
> For what it's worth.
>
> Rick Girard
>
> On Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 12:21 PM, albertakolbmk3 > wrote:
> >
>
> Your opinions would be appreciated.
>
> The original owner had a valve to switch between tanks I want to
> eliminate that. Also, with it set up like this do I still need to
> use the primer bulb he has installed. I have remote chokes. Just
> trying to work on the KISS principal.
>
> Tony
>
> --------
> Tony B.
>
> Kolb MKIII C
> Rotax 582
> C Gearbox 3.00:1
> WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282505#282505
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/scan01202010_081733_medium_153.bmp
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
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> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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> up now.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
Dana,
I thought silicone would be the way to go. But I don't pretend to
know much about gasket material . What would you think is the best
material to use. very simple and quick
to change gaskets . I use auto pump gas 10 percent ethanol.
I THANK you for your post. Hope everyone on the list cares
enough to speak up if they see someone doing something they believe is
unsafe, even if some people think
they are being nosy, butting in , or think their way is the only way.
I may not always take the advice that is offered---but I do always
appreciate it----.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar2
Brownsville , TX
On Jan 20, 2010, at 7:16 PM, Dana Hague wrote:
> At 06:51 PM 1/20/2010, frank.goodnight wrote:
>> Tony,
>> I have a 2 tank firestar 2. I have never liked the top draw system,
>> I am NOT trying to say there is something wrong with it , or that
>> any one should change it, just that I
>> personally don't like it. At my auto store I found an all metal
>> tire valve that is made similar to a through bulkhead fitting. I
>> removed the [guts] , made a gasket of silicone ,cut a hole...
>
> Only problem I see is the silicone gasket... mixing silicone with
> gasoline is bad news.
>
> -Dana
>
> --
> "Naked" means you ain't got no clothes on; "nekkid" means you ain't
> got no clothes on - and are up to somethin'.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
Frank G/Gang:
Understand you used silicone gasket material vs a tube of silicone seal?
I haven't checked the compatibility of silicone material with gasoline.
However, silicone hose connectors for diesel intercoolers is very
popular and very expensive. I have them on the old Dodge Cummins. They
seem to be compatible with diesel, motor oil, antifreeze, and a lot of
heat.
Would be a good idea to check it out to be sure.
If you used silicone seal, that is a no no. I sealed a vented fuel cap
on a Ken Brock seat tank in my FS, in 1987, with silicone seal. On a
flight to Miami, FL, I lost the engine over Sebring, FL. Shot a landing
in the high school foot ball stadium with no brakes. Found a few little
balls of silicone seal in the inlet valve of the primer bulb. ;-(
john h
mkIII
I thought silicone would be the way to go.
Frank Goodnight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
At 08:27 PM 1/20/2010, frank.goodnight wrote:
>I don't have a moisture trap or drain. Have never had a water problem,
>apparently plastic tanks don't condense as much as metal tanks...
That's what a friend of mine thought, until his engine quit on takeoff. A
bunch of surgeries fixed him but his MKIII is still a crumpled mess.
>I thought silicone would be the way to go. But I don't pretend to know
>much about gasket material . What would you think is the best material to use
Best material for gasoline is nitrile rubber (also known as Buna
N). That's what standard O-rings are generally made of.
-Dana
--
"Naked" means you ain't got no clothes on; "nekkid" means you ain't got
no clothes on - and are up to somethin'.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
Frank G/Gang:
Reference your anticipated fuel site gauge, which I have always used in
my FS and mkIII.
In order for it to work correctly, you must plumb it from the top of the
tank to the lowest part of the tank, seperately from your other fuel
lines.
If you plumb it into the main fuel line, it will pull the level in the
site gauge down when the engine is running and the fuel pump is pumping.
You've probably already guessed how I know this. ;-)
The site gauge is the most accurate/reliable/no maintenance sytem for
monitoring fuel level.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
John,
I used silicone gasket material, not the tube stuff.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar 2
On Jan 20, 2010, at 8:03 PM, John Hauck wrote:
> Frank G/Gang:
>
> Understand you used silicone gasket material vs a tube of silicone
> seal?
>
> I haven't checked the compatibility of silicone material with
> gasoline. However, silicone hose connectors for diesel intercoolers
> is very popular and very expensive. I have them on the old Dodge
> Cummins. They seem to be compatible with diesel, motor oil,
> antifreeze, and a lot of heat.
>
> Would be a good idea to check it out to be sure.
>
> If you used silicone seal, that is a no no. I sealed a vented fuel
> cap on a Ken Brock seat tank in my FS, in 1987, with silicone seal.
> On a flight to Miami, FL, I lost the engine over Sebring, FL. Shot
> a landing in the high school foot ball stadium with no brakes.
> Found a few little balls of silicone seal in the inlet valve of the
> primer bulb. ;-(
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
> I thought silicone would be the way to go.
>
> Frank Goodnight
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
| From: | "albertakolbmk3" <cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com> |
Frank,
There is a low point drain for each tank... the spring loaded push type like on
the GA's.
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282609#282609
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | whiskeyvictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut lexan |
In a message dated 1/20/2010 5:15:40 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com writes:
What is the best way to cut lexan. Knife, bandsaw, jigsaw.
Tony,
In the past, I used a hacksaw blade, just the blade, wrapped in a rag and
held in my hand. It took a long time to make the cut. Was hard to follow
the line, left a rough edge and made a lot of dust/dirt.
Now I cut it with my shears. The 12 inch size is a little hard to squeeze
so if you have a larger size it would be easier. It's easy to follow the
line, It cuts clean and needs very little sanding or smoothing. Test it on
a small piece and you will be amazed at how well it cuts.
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel system layout |
>Don't know anything about the electric fuel gages =2C they may be a better
option.
>Frank Goodnight
>Firestar 2
>Brownsville =2C TX
Frank=2C
It's hard to dispute John H.'s take on a clear tubing sight gauge. If it
's plumbed correctly=2C not a whole lot can go wrong.
However=2C if you were inclined to want an electric fuel gauge=2C here's
a couple of points.
First=2C the electric gauge uses a tiny amount of electricity (a couple of
milli-volts). It sends this electricity to a sending unit to measure the r
esistance of the sending unit's float position=2C which is actually a varia
ble resistor. This sending unit mounts to the top of the fuel tank=2C wit
h the mechanism (float) hanging down inside the tank.
As the float arm swings up or down=2C it slides the contact point of the
resistor=2C giving a different resistance depending on the float position.
If the resistance is high=2C it means your tank is full. If the resistan
ce is low=2C you're getting low on fuel. The gauge is simply an ohm meter
=2C but it gives it's reading in a scale that reads "1/4...1/2...3/4...full
".
There are two popular "types" of fuel gauges. (Actually=2C I think I've
seen some foreign odd-balls=2C but I'm not talking about those).
There is the 10-180 ohm gauge/sending unit=2C and the 33-240 ohm gauge/se
nding unit.
They are NOT interchangeable=2C at least not with accurate fuel level readi
ngs.
The hook-up is fairly easy=2C and very straightforward. 5 wire hookup.
12v pos & neg. and dash lights. The other two wires go to the sending unit
=2C and clip on the top of the sending
unit with those little spade wire clamps.
Most of the gauges you can buy at Pep Boys=2C Autozone=2C etc=2C have a r
ange of tank depth they'll work in. Often 5" to 16" deep tank.
Here is a very typical gauge/sending unit you'd find at an auto parts sto
re. Note this is the 10-180 ohm style.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VDO-301104-Gauge-Cockpit-Fuel-Level-Empty-F
ull-10-180_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4ced3601d5QQitemZ330397254101QQptZMot
orsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Like I said=2C if a guy were inclined to want an actual gauge=2C getting
one of these universal type units is a simple solution. They're super easy
to hook up=2C and aren't very expensive.
BTW=2C you don't have to buy the gauge with the sending unit. But=2C yo
u will definitely want to make sure you get the proper gauge and sending un
it ohm ranges matched=2C if you buy them separately.
Mike Welch
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free=2C trusted and rich email service.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Kulp <undoctor(at)ptd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying the lazy river on Youtube |
Lucien,
Just got to opening the list from the 15th. Thanks much for the link of
John taking off and landing the other FlagFly in heavy wind. I admire
his control. I've seen the video before and always wondered if there
was a reason he cut the power and then poured it on again, or was he
just playing. I'm going to bookmark the llink this time so I don't lose it.
Now, if anyone has the link to Possums flying along a lazy southern (I
think) river...
Best,
Dave Kulp
FF 11DMK
Speaking of the firefly, there is a vid on youtube of what looks
to be the Kolb
factory firefly flying at what I think is Sun-n-fun by (again I
think) John H:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9SFhiQRlGwA
It too has a nifty patriotic paint scheme.
I've lost count of how many batrillion times I've watched this
vid.....
LS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying the lazy river on Youtube |
I've seen the video before and always wondered if there
> was a reason he cut the power and then poured it on again, or was he
> just playing.
>
> Dave Kulp
I was trying not to crash a brand new Fire Fly that did no belong to me.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Flying the lazy river on Youtube |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15(at)juno.com> |
John, you sure had a handful with those wind conditions in a Firefly!
You handled it well ...
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar 447
N91493 E-AB
1000 hours
23 years flying it
Kolbra 912UL
N20386
2 years flying it
120 hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282671#282671
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
At 09:11 PM 1/20/2010, John Hauck wrote:
>
>The site gauge is the most accurate/reliable/no maintenance sytem for
>monitoring fuel level.
I will be using a sight gauge for the new aluminum tank I'm putting in my
UltraStar. Something I found on another list: If you use 5/16" instead of
14" ID tubing for the sight gauge, you can drop a "Piper fuel ball" into
the tube. The floating red ball makes the fuel level a lot easier to see
(the FAA requires the balls in type certificated planes with sight
gauges). Univair seems to be the only supplier:
<http://univairparts.com/shopping/product_info.php?products_id=10373>
-Dana
--
Sometimes you're the windshield, sometimes you're the bug.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
| From: | "albertakolbmk3" <cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com> |
Dana,
I Like the ball idea. The reason I'm putting the sending units in is I find it
very hard to read the fuel level in the tube. The ball would definitely help but
only as a backup for me. I like to see everything on the panel and not have
to crank my head around like a chicken to see my fuel level.
Tony
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282685#282685
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut lexan |
| From: | "albertakolbmk3" <cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com> |
John,
Tried the snips on an old piece and it does work quite well... I think that is
the way I'm going. No mess is always good.
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282687#282687
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying the lazy river on Youtube |
> John, you sure had a handful with those wind conditions in a Firefly!
>
> You handled it well ...
>
> Ralph
Thanks, Ralph:
Could not have done it without a good airplane.
The ultralight strip at Lakeland is notorious for difficult wind.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
Dana/Gang:
Good idea. Wish I had one in my sight gauge. I'll keep that in mind
when I get to the point I need to change out my tube.
john h
mkIII
If you use 5/16" instead of 14" ID tubing for the sight gauge, you
can drop a "Piper fuel ball" into the tube.
-Dana
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Kulp <undoctor(at)ptd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Flying the lazy river on Youtube |
Whoops... I didn't paste the reference post, so here it is.
dK
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*From: * */"John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com
>/*
*Subject: * /*_Re: Flying the lazy river on Youtube_*/
* I've seen the video before and always wondered if there > was a
reason he cut the power and then poured it on again, or was he >
just playing. > > Dave Kulp I was trying not to crash a brand new
Fire Fly that did no belong to me. john h *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Best way to cut lexan |
What is the best way to cut lexan. Knife, bandsaw, jigsaw. I'm just about
ready to to start cutting my new lexan... never done it before. Any advice
would be appreciated.
Tony
I used a hand held grinder with an abrasive wheel,
Boyd Young
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
| From: | Ellery Batchelder Jr <elleryweld(at)AOL.COM> |
frank
I use a northstar fuel flow meter in My Kolbs this unit gives you fuel
burn rate ,remaining fuel, alrms,all you have to be is fussy calibrating
it and I think this is the best unit for my situation You can find them
in the link below
http://www.boatersmarinesupply.com/m7_view_item.html?m7:item=28843
Ellery Batchelder Jr.
-----Original Message-----
From: frank.goodnight <frank.goodnight(at)att.net>
Sent: Wed, Jan 20, 2010 8:27 pm
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel system layout
Hi Mike ,
I don't have a moisture trap or drain. Have never had a water problem, app
arently plastic tanks don't condense as much as metal tanks. I do keep the
tanks
full most of the time. I plan to make a sump with drain some time in the
future.[ before the trip to MV this spring] Should have already done it
, lazy & too much procrastination . When I do, I think I will
tie in a loop of fuel line and bring it forward so it can be used as a sig
ht gage. Too old and too fat to twist around and see how much fuel is left
, I use a mirror but it is not the
best sys. Don't know anything about the electric fuel gages , they may be
a better option.
FYI when I changed to the marine fuel tubing [alcohol resistant] I did
trap the fuel & checked it , clean and dry. About 30 hrs ago. same small
auto store fuel filter for about 100 hrs.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar 2
Brownsville , TX
On Jan 20, 2010, at 6:42 PM, Mike Welch wrote:
Frank,
I like the description of your fuel system. Your's sounds very similar
to mine.
One minor difference between our systems is I have a petcock at the lowe
st point of the tubing, to allow for a quick drain of moisture in the fuel
.
You didn't mention that you can accomodate for moisture drainage. Do yo
u have a way to drain off any water/crud in your fuel system?
Mike Welch
From: frank.goodnight(at)att.net
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Fuel system layout
Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 17:51:57 -0600
Tony,
I have a 2 tank firestar 2. I have never liked the top draw system, I am
NOT trying to say there is something wrong with it , or that any one shou
ld change it, just that I
personally don't like it. At my auto store I found an all metal tire valv
e that is made similar to a through bulkhead fitting. I removed the [guts]
, made a gasket of silicone ,cut a hole
in the bottom of each tank and mounted the valves. I connected the valves
together with tubing , and with a tee between them , then connected the
tee to the facet pump [it is also is lower than
the tanks]. The fuel level in both tanks stays the same and all but about
a quart of fuel is usable, assuming I can keep the plane level. No on off
valves in the entire sys.
Once again ,taking a page from John Hs book I'm not suggesting that th
is is the way things should be done, only that this is how i did it. About
100 hrs on this sys. No problems.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar 2
Brownsville , TX
On Jan 20, 2010, at 1:30 PM, Richard Girard wrote:
Tony, I plumbed my fuel system with stock plastic tanks and top taps. Ther
e is no balance line between the tanks so I run a selector valve. I have
the fuel gauge sender in the tank behind me since I cannot see it in flig
ht. I run off the left tank first until it's down to a gallon or so, then
switch to the right tank with the gauge.
For what it's worth.
Rick Girard
On Wed, Jan 20, 2010 at 12:21 PM, albertakolbmk3 wrote:
m>
Your opinions would be appreciated.
The original owner had a valve to switch between tanks I want to eliminate
that. Also, with it set up like this do I still need to use the primer bu
lb he has installed. I have remote chokes. Just trying to work on the KISS
principal.
Tony
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
| From: | "albertakolbmk3" <cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com> |
Here's an even cheaper place to pick them up,
http://www.boatersland.com/f210.html
Tony
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282838#282838
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Cowan" <tc1917(at)bellsouth.net> |
It was mentioned the other day that the AOPA AD insurance was no good for
experimental and home builts. I did some research and called the insurance
company. We did a once over on the policy. On the back it states in the
exclusions - experimental aircraft. But -- if you read if further or more
deeply, you will find that is ONLY when it is not certified by the
government. That means that once you fly off the restrictions and get the
airworthiness certificate, it IS certified by the government. She assured
me that they do and have honored this insurance in experimental homebuilts
and all light sport classes of fixed wing. She just advised that until it
has passed all restrictions and has a air.cert., it is not. I hope this
clears it up. If you have questions, please give her a call. It is good,
cheap extra insurance for us that lose our double indemnity coverage when we
fly. Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Cowan" <tc1917(at)bellsouth.net> |
I forgot to add, I also got in touch with AOPA and Zack from Member Services
stated that the insurance DID NOT cover experimentals, etc. Soooo, go to
the horses mouth, you know, the one that is going to pay you. I like the
fact they cover arms and legs too. Our feet seem to be the first thing that
hits the ground and not running either. ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
tc1917(at)bellsouth.net wrote:
> I forgot to add, I also got in touch with AOPA and Zack from Member Services
> stated that the insurance DID NOT cover experimentals, etc. Soooo, go to
> the horses mouth, you know, the one that is going to pay you. I like the
> fact they cover arms and legs too. Our feet seem to be the first thing that
> hits the ground and not running either. ted
For what it's worth, I have my insurance through Falcon, which I got through the
EAA. Supposed to cover experimentals.
No matter who you go with, you can be sure they'll figure out a way to wriggle
out of their end of the bargain when something does happen, so in the end it probably
doesn't matter much.
I think of insurance as just a big fee that allows you to fly at airports that
require ins. I don't seriously think they'd ever cover me in case of a problem,
so I write off the airplane in my mind as part of my preflight checklist.
Once I get my plane paid off I'm dropping it down to liability only....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282862#282862
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
> For what it's worth, I have my insurance through Falcon, which I got
through the EAA. Supposed to cover experimentals.
>
> No matter who you go with, you can be sure they'll figure out a way to
> wriggle out of their end of the bargain when something does happen, so in
> the end it probably doesn't matter much.
>
> I think of insurance as just a big fee that allows you to fly at airports
> that require ins. I don't seriously think they'd ever cover me in case of
> a problem, so I write off the airplane in my mind as part of my preflight
> checklist.
>
> Once I get my plane paid off I'm dropping it down to liability only....
>
> LS
Good Morning, Lucien/Gang:
I think Ted C is talking about life insurance, but I could be wrong. Maybe
AD in the subject line, indicates Accidental Death.
I replaced my Avemco policy with Falcon Insurance when Avemco dropped
experimentals some years ago. It does cover experiementals. I had a claim
last year, after the rats decided to eat my airplane for lunch. They use
the same adjuster, out of Atlanta, that AVEMCO uses. They were prompt to
come look at the airplane and prompt to send me a check.
On 1 July 2000, I wiped off the landing gear and damaged the left wing and
aileron on the MKIII landing on a rough field at Rocky Mountain Lodge,
Muncho Lake, BC. AVEMCO paid for transporting me and my airplane 3,762
miles to Titus, Alabama, and all repairs. I worked with an adjuster out of
Vancouver, BC. He was great.
Insurance companies are not in business to pay, and they will check your
paperwork to insure you have a current ticket (BFR), medical, annual
inspection, etc. If you and the airplane are current, they'll pay.
If you owe money on your airplane, the finance institution will require hull
insurance only to cover their loan. An airport would not be interested in
hull, but liability insurance only. Liability is cheap compared to hull
insurance.
One of the great benefits of Falcon Insurance is their coverage any where in
the North American Continent. My first two flights to Alaska with Avemco
Insurance I had to buy supplemental insurance to cover my airplane north of
the Arctic Circle. It was very expensive. It would cost a small fortune to
recover an aircraft off the North Slope or out of the Brooks Mountains, get
it back to Fairbanks to repair, or ship back to Alabama for me to repair. I
could not afford that without insurance. Same here in the Lower 48, but not
quite as drastic as Northern Canada or Alaska.
If I could afford to write off my airplane, I would not have insurance.
Unfortunately, I can't afford to do that.
john h
mkIII
Titus, AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut lexan |
| From: | "racerjerry" <gki(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
CUTTING PLEXIGLASS or LEXAN
Tin snips work OK.
Cutoff wheels work but are slow.
A bandsaw with a fine tooth blade works well and gets the job done quickly.
Jigsaws sometimes cause trouble on the reverse stroke - not recommended.
Sand all edges smooth when you are done.
Use oversize holes in the plastic for rivets or screws to avoid cracks due to expansion
of the plastic.
Try to mount (rivets/screws) the plastic slightly on the loose side so it can give.
--------
Jerry King
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282895#282895
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut lexan |
| From: | "albertakolbmk3" <cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com> |
Jerry,
Thanks for the tips.
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282896#282896
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
I've not had the same good experiences others have reported having with the insurance
industry in the past, despite having kept my side of the street squeaky
clean. Can't remember the last time an ins. co. honored their side of any agreement
with me off hand.
But then again, I just have bad karma generally among thieves and crooks. They
can see me coming miles away. A cross I have to bear in our insurance-laden society
I suppose.
Good point about the hull - on my plane the hull is almost 3/4 of the total cost,
tho that's because I'm currently still carrying hull for the full purchase
price of about 3 years ago. I may drop it down to the remaining debt amount next
year when the drop in the rates is substantial enough.
Liability is usually pretty cheap, on the order of car insurance, and is generally
all the airports require.
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282900#282900
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
| From: | "Kirby, Dennis Civ USAF AFMC AFNWC/EN" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
<< I thought silicone would be the way to go. But I don't pretend to
know much about gasket material. What would you think is the best
material to use. >>
Permatex makes a product specifically designed for fuel fittings - it's
a white goop. Smells a little like tangerines. Available at any auto
parts store. It's 100 percent fuel-proof, and seals any/all threaded
fuel fittings on your fuel system. I used this stuff several years ago
to secure the Curtis drain valve and the brass fuel nipples that thread
into my homemade PVC gascolator. Never had a leak.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3, 912ul
Sandia Park, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mark.shimei" <mark.shimei(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How often do you rebuild your Mikuni Fuel pump? |
I had one in a Phantom for 7 years...260 hrs never touched it...but that
should not be a benchmark for your re-build time.
Mark...Ultrastar with 60hrs and counting
I am thinking a rebuild every other year is overkill. Any
> thoughts before I order a rebuild kit? Thanks in advance. Lanny
Lanny/Gang:
I guess you could stretch it to three years if two years is an overkill.
Let us know if you have a fuel pump failure between two and three years.
;-)
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
> But then again, I just have bad karma generally among thieves and crooks.
They can see me coming miles away. A cross I have to bear in our
insurance-laden society I suppose.
>
> LS
Aviation insurance companies have not come across as "thieves and crooks" to
me. If I keep up my end of the bargain, they give me the service I pay for.
One advantage of aviation hull insurance over, automobile collision and
comprehensive insurance is total payoff. Aviation insurance companies do
not depreciate value. If I insure my 18 year old mkIII for 40,000.00, that
is what they will pay if I total it, no matter.
With a 20,000.00 engine and a 20,000.00 airframe and equipment, I am not
wealthy enough to write off that kind of loss. I'll stick to hull
insurance.
I do think it foolish to fly into public airports, or private airports,
around very expensive aircraft, equipment, and people, without having
liability insurance. If I knocked the position light off the wing tip of a
Cessna Citation, I'd be in debt forever.
john h
mkIII- Going flying!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
John/All
Another perspective. I don't carry insurance on my airplane. I have been
told the cost of hull insurance is app. 10% of the cost of your airplane per
year. A experimental might be more. Last year I asked Avemco for a quote on
liability insurance. When they found out I had a VW on my plane that I
installed (not professionally installed) they walked away. They wouldn't
even give me a quote. But they did give me a hat.
I have been flying my plane for ten years so I can total my plane and it
will cost me less to replace than pay for the insurance. You talk about the
monumental cost of recovering your plane from the north slope of Alaska...
Insurance companies don't like to pay more than they have to. They will
figure the appraised value of your plane minus your deductable and IF you
haven't violated any rules or laws might just write you a check.
Liability insurance is a concern but if I'm dead are they really going to go
after my (hopefully grieving) 60 year old widow??? Also my pockets aren't
deep enough to interest a money grubbing lawyer.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: AD insurance
>
>
> > For what it's worth, I have my insurance through Falcon, which I got
> through the EAA. Supposed to cover experimentals.
>>
>> No matter who you go with, you can be sure they'll figure out a way to
>> wriggle out of their end of the bargain when something does happen, so in
>> the end it probably doesn't matter much.
>>
>> I think of insurance as just a big fee that allows you to fly at airports
>> that require ins. I don't seriously think they'd ever cover me in case of
>> a problem, so I write off the airplane in my mind as part of my preflight
>> checklist.
>>
>> Once I get my plane paid off I'm dropping it down to liability only....
>>
>> LS
>
>
> Good Morning, Lucien/Gang:
>
> I think Ted C is talking about life insurance, but I could be wrong.
> Maybe AD in the subject line, indicates Accidental Death.
>
> I replaced my Avemco policy with Falcon Insurance when Avemco dropped
> experimentals some years ago. It does cover experiementals. I had a
> claim last year, after the rats decided to eat my airplane for lunch.
> They use the same adjuster, out of Atlanta, that AVEMCO uses. They were
> prompt to come look at the airplane and prompt to send me a check.
>
> On 1 July 2000, I wiped off the landing gear and damaged the left wing and
> aileron on the MKIII landing on a rough field at Rocky Mountain Lodge,
> Muncho Lake, BC. AVEMCO paid for transporting me and my airplane 3,762
> miles to Titus, Alabama, and all repairs. I worked with an adjuster out
> of Vancouver, BC. He was great.
>
> Insurance companies are not in business to pay, and they will check your
> paperwork to insure you have a current ticket (BFR), medical, annual
> inspection, etc. If you and the airplane are current, they'll pay.
>
> If you owe money on your airplane, the finance institution will require
> hull insurance only to cover their loan. An airport would not be
> interested in hull, but liability insurance only. Liability is cheap
> compared to hull insurance.
>
> One of the great benefits of Falcon Insurance is their coverage any where
> in the North American Continent. My first two flights to Alaska with
> Avemco Insurance I had to buy supplemental insurance to cover my airplane
> north of the Arctic Circle. It was very expensive. It would cost a small
> fortune to recover an aircraft off the North Slope or out of the Brooks
> Mountains, get it back to Fairbanks to repair, or ship back to Alabama for
> me to repair. I could not afford that without insurance. Same here in
> the Lower 48, but not quite as drastic as Northern Canada or Alaska.
>
> If I could afford to write off my airplane, I would not have insurance.
> Unfortunately, I can't afford to do that.
>
> john h
> mkIII
> Titus, AL
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | daquanut(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brolga ultraprop |
List:
Anyone have any first hand experience with the newer blades that
ultraprop is offering for ultra-lights? It sounds like they are built
something like powerfin. The info I read said they were made with carbon fiber
over a foam core. If they dont flex too much they might be a suitable prop
for a Firefly.
Ed Diebel FF# 62 ( 140 hrs)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net wrote:
> John/All
>
> Another perspective. I don't carry insurance on my airplane. I have been
> told the cost of hull insurance is app. 10% of the cost of your airplane per
> year. A experimental might be more. Last year I asked Avemco for a quote on
> liability insurance. When they found out I had a VW on my plane that I
> installed (not professionally installed) they walked away. They wouldn't
> even give me a quote. But they did give me a hat.
>
> I have been flying my plane for ten years so I can total my plane and it
> will cost me less to replace than pay for the insurance. You talk about the
> monumental cost of recovering your plane from the north slope of Alaska...
> Insurance companies don't like to pay more than they have to. They will
> figure the appraised value of your plane minus your deductable and IF you
> haven't violated any rules or laws might just write you a check.
>
> Liability insurance is a concern but if I'm dead are they really going to go
> after my (hopefully grieving) 60 year old widow??? Also my pockets aren't
> deep enough to interest a money grubbing lawyer.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
>
> ---
That's actually not unusual (that they turned you down for having the VW conversion).
The ins. co. wants someone involved that's worth enough to go after via
lawsuit if they decide to try to recover a loss.
That's why they don't like "one-off's", like a custom auto-engine conversion or
something along those lines, no matter how well done or reliable it might end
up being.. There's no one left to sue at the end of the day - it's pretty much
just you and you're broke because of having spent all your money on the plane.
But even something like a PSRU made by some (sue-able) company somewhere can satisfy
the underwriter in many cases, even if the rest of the engine is completely
custom-done for instance. You may get a higher rate but they'll still sometimes
write you a policy.
In any case, you have to weigh the likelihood of getting screwed by the insurance
co. against the protections you would have if they did decide to honor their
end of the agreement. There's not much you can do legally if they do screw you,
but there's a lot you can do to help insure they won't. I.e., stay relentlessly
current, meticulous about the logbooks and maint. etc. I don't so much as
turn a wrench without putting it in my logbooks.
Liability is worth it, I agree, if you fly into/out of a lot of airports. It's
good to not hit anything in the first place, but there's always that potential
for disaster....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282970#282970
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
At 12:46 PM 1/22/2010, John Hauck wrote:
>Aviation insurance companies have not come across as "thieves and crooks"
>to me. If I keep up my end of the bargain, they give me the service I pay for.
Same here. Really it's just legalized gambling... you're betting you're
going to have an accident, they're betting you won't... and as always, the
odds favor the house.
>One advantage of aviation hull insurance over, automobile collision and
>comprehensive insurance is total payoff. Aviation insurance companies do
>not depreciate value. If I insure my 18 year old mkIII for 40,000.00,
>that is what they will pay if I total it, no matter.
That's because planes don't depreciate significantly, if at all.
>With a 20,000.00 engine and a 20,000.00 airframe and equipment, I am not
>wealthy enough to write off that kind of loss. I'll stick to hull insurance.
With a $2500 airplane, including engine and "equipment", I'm not wealthy
enough to _pay_ for hull insurance.
>I do think it foolish to fly into public airports, or private airports,
>around very expensive aircraft, equipment, and people, without having
>liability insurance. If I knocked the position light off the wing tip of
>a Cessna Citation, I'd be in debt forever.
Which is why I have liability insurance... and would even if my airport
didn't require it.
-Dana
--
"If yew ain't livin' on th' edge, yer takin' up too much room!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brolga ultraprop |
At 02:17 PM 1/22/2010, daquanut(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Anyone have any first hand experience with the newer blades that
> ultraprop is offering for ultra-lights? It sounds like they are built
> something like powerfin. The info I read said they were made with carbon
> fiber over a foam core. If they dont flex too much they might be a
> suitable prop for a Firefly.
After seeing a Powerfin explode due to damage from gravel kicked up by a
MKIII's tires, I'll stick to wood or solid composites like Warp Drive on
any pusher aircaft.
I don't know what the new blades look like, but people I know who have
tried Ultraprops have found them to be notoriously poor performers compared
to other props. Also they're hard to adjust as you have to get new pitch
blocks for each change.
-Dana
--
"If yew ain't livin' on th' edge, yer takin' up too much room!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brolga ultraprop |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
[quote="Dana"]
> After seeing a Powerfin explode due to damage from gravel kicked up by a MKIII's
tires, I'll stick to wood or solid composites like Warp Drive on any pusher
aircaft.
>
For what it's worth, Powerfin changed the design of their blades slightly a while
back. I used to have one of the old ones and currently have two of the new
ones. The newer blades are slightly heavier and seem to be constructed differently.
The older model really was a lightweight thing, but the new ones strike
me as stronger overall.
There's no stronger pusher you can buy for the 912 than an F model powerfin, but
it doesn't have the speed range of the Warp Drive taper tip.
>
> I don't know what the new blades look like, but people I know who have tried
Ultraprops have found them to be notoriously poor performers compared to other
props. Also they're hard to adjust as you have to get new pitch blocks for
each change.
>
Flew an ultraprop on my quicksilver for about 70 hours when I first bought it.
The blades were so floppy they would thwap up against the tail mount tubes when
I was starting the engine (Rotax 503). All that time I thought the engine was
detonating as it cranked up - it was hard to tell what the noise was while pulling
the rope standing in front of the plane. Wasn't until one of the locals
told me "hey, you know your prop blades are whacking up against your tail mounts..."....
Performance was somewhere between horrible and terrible. When I rebuilt the plane
about a year after I bought it, I replaced the ultraprop with a 2-blade woody.
The difference in performance was astounding.
An awful prop all around, tho I must say still very durable.....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282980#282980
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brolga ultraprop |
> There's no stronger pusher you can buy for the 912 than an F model
powerfin, but it doesn't have the speed range of the Warp Drive taper tip.
>
> Flew an ultraprop on my quicksilver for about 70 hours when I first
bought it. The blades were so floppy they would thwap up against the tail
mount tubes when I was starting the engine (Rotax 503). All that time I
thought the engine was detonating as it cranked up - it was hard to tell
what the noise was while pulling the rope standing in front of the plane.
Wasn't until one of the locals told me "hey, you know your prop blades are
whacking up against your tail mounts..."....
>
> LS
Lucien/Gang:
How did you determine the F Model Powerfin was the strongest?
Is there a cut away diagram of the Powerfin construction available on line?
Since I don't fly very far without a prop, I chose the Warp Drive for all my
flights since 1993. I don't follow roads, so I have to have a prop I can
depend on to get me there and get me home.
My buddy John W flew with a Warp Drive for the same reasons.
70 hours is a long time to beat up the airframe with prop blades. I would
think the blade strikes would leave telltale marks on the aluminum tubes.
You are lucky.
I had a blade strike on my mkIII with a 70" inch tapered Warp Drive blade on
startup with my new 912ULS. The blades got the back side of the leading
edge tube and inboard rib tubes of the left flap. This was a few days prior
to take off for Alaska in 2000. Went from a 2" to a 4" prop extention. No
more problems. This was an early 912ULS without high torque starter and
slip clutch. I put over 800 hours on that engine before Rotax came out with
the starter/slip clutch offer. That made my 912ULS start like a baby.
$600.00 well spent.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brolga ultraprop |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
John Hauck wrote:
>
>
> Lucien/Gang:
>
> How did you determine the F Model Powerfin was the strongest?
>
I meant strongest in terms of thrust, not strength of the prop itself (this is
evident by climb rate, which is the highest with my powerfin at Vy and 5300 rpm
than any other prop I've tried on the plane).
As for durability, If I were doing lots of soft/rough field ops I'd probably not
feel quite as good about the powerfin as I do now. Very stiff and powerful blades,
but they're not as durable as the Warp Drive no matter how you slice it.
I still have mine and would probably mount it and put up with the harmonic if
I were planning on any rough or dirty fields.
At my altitude, tho, the more climb the better and the powerfin has the slight
edge here.
>
> 70 hours is a long time to beat up the airframe with prop blades. I would
> think the blade strikes would leave telltale marks on the aluminum tubes.
>
> You are lucky.
>
You're telling me. That was back in the bad old days when I was first starting
out and didn't know a whole lot about what I was doing. I'm glad I survived those
early years, I've learnt a lot since then.
I didn't even notice the marks at the time. When I tore the plane down later for
its rebuild, you could see the indentations in the ends of the tail mount tubes.
Tough prop tho.
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282998#282998
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon LaVasseur <firestar503(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
I hope this won't sound like an insurance commercial but I have had first hand
experience with Old Republic through the Travers Agency. Both the agency and the
carrier treated me fairly. An adjuster was on the scene of the accident within
a couple of days and the carrier paid for a second opinion of the damage as
well as storage until the claim was settled for the full amount of the hull
insurance. They refunded my premium, dated to the accident and now are writing
my replacement plane at a fair price.
As for liability insurance, it is a must. Accidents do happen. I saw the day after
of a Kolb Firestar that got away from the pilot on a ramp and hit a Cessna
in the baggage door. Itbuckled the Cessna fuselage. You might be able topay fordamage
to your aircraft but try paying for someones certified Cessna or Cirrus.
Jon L.
Minnesota
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Some common sense is good insurance too. I rarely fly to large gatherings at paved
airports but when I do,
the guy waving me over to park on the ramp next to big expensive airplanes gets
ignored. With puny brakes and
no differential action I shut down and hand push to a good spot. My preference
is to taxi over to a grassy spot
and park. This also reduces the chances of some other guy whacking you.
BB
On 22, Jan 2010, at 5:45 PM, lucien wrote:
>
>
> NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net wrote:
>> John/All
>>
>> Another perspective. I don't carry insurance on my airplane. I have been
>> told the cost of hull insurance is app. 10% of the cost of your airplane per
>> year. A experimental might be more. Last year I asked Avemco for a quote on
>> liability insurance. When they found out I had a VW on my plane that I
>> installed (not professionally installed) they walked away. They wouldn't
>> even give me a quote. But they did give me a hat.
>>
>> I have been flying my plane for ten years so I can total my plane and it
>> will cost me less to replace than pay for the insurance. You talk about the
>> monumental cost of recovering your plane from the north slope of Alaska...
>> Insurance companies don't like to pay more than they have to. They will
>> figure the appraised value of your plane minus your deductable and IF you
>> haven't violated any rules or laws might just write you a check.
>>
>> Liability insurance is a concern but if I'm dead are they really going to go
>> after my (hopefully grieving) 60 year old widow??? Also my pockets aren't
>> deep enough to interest a money grubbing lawyer.
>>
>> Rick Neilsen
>> Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
>>
>> ---
>
>
> That's actually not unusual (that they turned you down for having the VW conversion).
The ins. co. wants someone involved that's worth enough to go after via
lawsuit if they decide to try to recover a loss.
>
> That's why they don't like "one-off's", like a custom auto-engine conversion
or something along those lines, no matter how well done or reliable it might end
up being.. There's no one left to sue at the end of the day - it's pretty much
just you and you're broke because of having spent all your money on the plane.
>
> But even something like a PSRU made by some (sue-able) company somewhere can
satisfy the underwriter in many cases, even if the rest of the engine is completely
custom-done for instance. You may get a higher rate but they'll still sometimes
write you a policy.
>
> In any case, you have to weigh the likelihood of getting screwed by the insurance
co. against the protections you would have if they did decide to honor their
end of the agreement. There's not much you can do legally if they do screw
you, but there's a lot you can do to help insure they won't. I.e., stay relentlessly
current, meticulous about the logbooks and maint. etc. I don't so much
as turn a wrench without putting it in my logbooks.
>
> Liability is worth it, I agree, if you fly into/out of a lot of airports. It's
good to not hit anything in the first place, but there's always that potential
for disaster....
>
> LS
>
> --------
> LS
> Titan II SS
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282970#282970
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
slyck(at)frontiernet.net wrote:
> Some common sense is good insurance too. I rarely fly to large gatherings at
paved airports but when I do,
> the guy waving me over to park on the ramp next to big expensive airplanes gets
ignored. With puny brakes and
> no differential action I shut down and hand push to a good spot. My preference
is to taxi over to a grassy spot
> and park. This also reduces the chances of some other guy whacking you.
> BB
>
Well it's probably obvious by now that I have a particular hatred of organized
crime, particularly rackets like insurance and banks (I make my living having
these guys as customers) so it's very hard for me to maintain objectivity about
them. Particularly when people start talking about them as if they're actually
benevolent, honorable enterprises who only have our best interests at heart.
That's really when my hair starts to stand on end.
So I'll sit on my hands on the issue for now.
To be honest, when I get rich and famous I'm going to buy a plot of land out in
the middle of nowhere and build my own insurance-free airport on it and will
fly only to other places out in the middle of nowhere. I wouldn't be too bent
out of shape if I never landed at another public airport again and all my flight
ops were forever after into dirt/grass strips privately owned and far far away
from anywhere.
But yes, as long as I do have to fly into public places, I'll toe the line and
maintain liability insurance. Accidents really do happen no matter how careful
you are....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283074#283074
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | russ kinne <russkinne(at)mac.com> |
FWIW -- I had insurance with Avemco, for a Cessna. When I put it on
floats they increased the premium by almost 60%. Not pleasant, but
understandable. When I took it OFF floats they refused to lower the
premium again. They said, "We know you'll put it back on floats, and
we'll keep charging the higher premium". Goodbye Avemco.
When queried, another company said they'd pay me $13,500 for a total
loss. My year and model plane was then selling for about $50,000.
Goodby, other company.
Got insurance through the Antique A/C Assn, had an engine seize & did
minor damage on landing. They did pay for that, but of course not
cost of removal or a new engine. I have no arguments with this company.
So some are good, some aren't; but they all will say, "Thanks for the
premiums, goodbye" if you give them half a chance. Keep all paperwork
current! (aka, CYA)
I try not to fly anything anywhere without liability insurance, and
try to read the policy when I rent.
Russ K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
>
>I wouldn't be too bent out of shape if I never landed at another public
airport again and all my flight ops were forever after into .
>
lucien,
What makes you so sure that there aren't a few sharks, wolves, etc lying in
wait at the "dirt/grass strips privately owned and far far away from
anywhere"?
Flying a ul has been an interesting experience. From my limited experience,
airport managers vary from a few who want you to "get out of here" to most
who bend over backwards to be helpful. Some are anxiety prone and see
nothing but the liability of operating a business, and others are more open
to service and the promotion of flying. They may not like you but they sure
will sell you fuel and count your take off and landing in with the real
planes when it comes time to report to the fed's. So far, I have been lucky
in finding hangar space at public airports. At first things were a little
dicey but when they found out that I kept out of the way, I was accepted,
and other pilots who fly from the same airport drop by to check out the
FireFly. One of the reasons for hangaring at a public airport is so that I
can talk to others who like to fly. Then there are a few who turn their
back but they have been, in most cases, pilots who are passing through.
Having a heat wave. Supposed to get over 50 degrees F today. Warm enough
to work on the FireFly.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
jbhart(at)onlyinternet.ne wrote:
>
> lucien,
>
> What makes you so sure that there aren't a few sharks, wolves, etc lying in
> wait at the "dirt/grass strips privately owned and far far away from
> anywhere"?
>
> Flying a ul has been an interesting experience. From my limited experience,
> airport managers vary from a few who want you to "get out of here" to most
> who bend over backwards to be helpful. Some are anxiety prone and see
> nothing but the liability of operating a business, and others are more open
> to service and the promotion of flying. They may not like you but they sure
> will sell you fuel and count your take off and landing in with the real
> planes when it comes time to report to the fed's. So far, I have been lucky
> in finding hangar space at public airports. At first things were a little
> dicey but when they found out that I kept out of the way, I was accepted,
> and other pilots who fly from the same airport drop by to check out the
> FireFly. One of the reasons for hangaring at a public airport is so that I
> can talk to others who like to fly. Then there are a few who turn their
> back but they have been, in most cases, pilots who are passing through.
>
> Having a heat wave. Supposed to get over 50 degrees F today. Warm enough
> to work on the FireFly.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Winchester, IN
Hi Jack,
Well you know the old saying: Life's a bed of roses, you just have to watch out
for the pricks. Now, there's always a risk of running into a prick, but the chances
of that go down when there aren't so many roses around.....
All that said, I've generally had overall good experiences at public airports as
I have for the last 8 or so years or so. That's generally because I try to prep
myself on the rules, obey the rules and get any conflicts that may arise dealt
with as soon as practicable. If someone complains, I go right to their office
and get to work on what we need to do about it.
I had my FSII here at KSAF for about a year until I regrettably had to sell it.
I never got even one complaint and everyone loved watching me fly the plane around
the airport. One time the tower asked me to call them after I'd made a mistake
and, as usual, it was my fault and I corrected the error after that when
I was given the same instructions subsequently. And the controller added "and
finally I just want to say I'm absolutely enthralled with your airplane".
With hangaring and some of the GA and big iron pilots, tho, my results have been
mixed, especially when I was flying ultralights. The two main problems with
hangaring are exploitative raising of rents and closing of hangars. With other
planes/pilots, the perception of ultralights as cowboys that make trouble even
if you're neither a cowboy or a trouble-maker. Goes back to that "prick" thing
I mentioned earlier.
Looking back on my flying, I still rank ultralighting as my most magical flying
experiences. Flying my quicksilver off a farm was really the pinnacle privilege
of my entire flying career and I've wanted to try that again since.
There's just something about blasting off out of a field somewhere that you just
don't quite capture when it's a big airport.
We got about another month left in the flying season here before we get shut down
by the wind and then convective activity. After that it'll be little windows
here and there assuming I can get up early enough in the morning. Got a massive
low pressure system over us this weekend which I think has put the Kaibash
on flying until next weekend....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283093#283093
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ultrastar liability Insurance |
At 11:27 AM 1/23/2010, David Kulp wrote:
>Dana,
>
>Do you have lliability insurance on your US or on yourself? Having apts,
>etc., I have an umbrella liability policy on myself which reduces the cost
>of the coverage on my rentals and vehicles, but I'm not sure it would
>cover any damage if I landed on someone's barn roof. If you have it on
>the US, who's the carrier?? I had Falcon and others check for ins. and
>they couldn't come up with a carrier since I don't have an N
>number. Perhaps they were only looking for hull ins.
Dave, I have liability on the US through USUA / First Flight. I don't have
an umbrella policy; AFAIK those are always "secondary" policies and don't
cover anything that doesn't have a primary policy first.
They don't care about an N-number but they do require that the pilot have
some sort of qualification (an old USUA instructor signoff or FAA certificate).
-Dana
--
Software isn't released, it's allowed to escape.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: AD insurance |
Me too.
I have visited Bob's airstrip. It is beautiful. Never landed on it
with my airplane, but spent the night on it in the 5th wheel. It was so
dark I could not see my hand in front of my face.
Bob's strip and hanger are a lot like mine, with the exception his is
longer and has better approaches.
My airstrip does not belong to me, but close friends. I have been
flying out of it for more than 25 years now, all 750 feet of it, with
one easy way in and out. The other way is not bad, but not as easy as
the other. I get lazy and land the easy way now. When I was younger
and dumber, I landed both ways. If I did that now, it would soon become
normal and not at all difficult.
I have two hangers with 150.00 invested in both, not counting labor. I
have never paid a penny's rent, but I do help with some of the chores
around the farm, when needed. I also keep 8 antique tractors in barns
and sheds at the farm. Best of both worlds.
I was rotary wing rated, but not fixed wing rated, when I took off in my
untested Ultrastar, out of that cow pasture, July 1984. After my second
flight, two weeks later, I was fixed wing rated. In 1990, I got my
private ticket with 1,200+ ultralight flight hours and 20 hours in a
Cessna 152. I may have 30 hours in GA fixed wing, the rest are in
Kolbs, with the exception of a couple hours in Bert Howland's Honey Bee
in 1989, and an hour in Bruce Chestnut's Aeronca Champ a few years ago.
Yea...and I did fly the Kolb Sport out of Chesnut Knolls for an hour.
I have test flown my three Kolbs out of Gantt International Airport (my
grass strip).
I have pretty much free run of hay fields up here in my neck of the
woods. Never had a problem with any neighbor and my airplane all these
years, even when I cut a 7,600 VAC power line at supper time in 1985. I
didn't get hurt but my airplane was totaled and a lot of folks had a
late supper. I was afraid my flying days were over because I had no
money to pay Alabama Power Co to replace the line and three each three
phase transformers I burned out, not to mention the money to rebuild my
Ultrastar. Never got a letter from Alabama Power, and Brother Jim and I
managed to rebuild the Ultrastar by pinching those pennies a little
harder.
Back then, I would never have thought my Kolbs would fly to the places
they have flown, and will fly on a regular basis.
I am grateful to be an American and have the opportunity to experience
some very enjoyable years building and flying my Kolbs.
john h
mkIII - On a cold, gray, windy, dreary day at hauck's holler, alabama.
I agree. especially nice if you own it and:
BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: re: AD insurance |
Forgot to mention in my previous, the four photos were taken as I was
preparing to take off for Point Barrow, Alaska. All the cows and calves
came over to bid me farewell. The first of this year the gentleman that
was leasing the farm loaded up his cows and went elsewhere. For the
first time in many years, I have a cow pattie free airstrip.
Unfortunately, the weather has been so poor I am not getting much flying
done, with or without cow manure. I miss the old cows, little baby
calves, and those high strung adolecents that jump around and kick up
their heels when I would confront them with the mkIII. Spring will be
here before we know it, and another young man has leased the hay fields
and pastures to raise beef cattle. Like the old herds before them, they
will soon learn and become accustomed to living in and around Gantt
International Airport and that noisy little flying machine that tries to
make them move off the airstrip so it can land.
Those photos were taken about 24 June 2004. On that trip I was gone for
48 days, flew about 175 hours. I made landings at:
1 - Leadville, CO (highest airport in the North American Continent at
9,927 feet ASL)
2 - Barrow, AK (Northernmost village in the North American Continent)
3 - Dead Horse/Prudhoe Bay, AK (end of the Dalton Highway (Pipeline Haul
Road))
4 - Kaktovik (Barter Island), AK (northeasternmost village in Alaska)
5 - Homer, AK
6 - Seldovia, AK (about 15 miles across Kachemak Bay south of Homer)
7 - Valdez, AK
8 - McCarthy, AK
9 - Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territory, Canada (northernmost village in
the North American Continent in Canada)
10- Inuvik, NWT, Canada (at the northern end of the Dempster Highway
(gravel for over 500 miles) 80 miles south of Tuktoyaktuk)
While in the Barrow, AK, area, I landed on the beach of the Arctic
Ocean, 12 miles south of Barrow, at the location of the fatal crash of
Wiley Post and Wil Rogers in 1935; departed the beach and flew north
over the Arctic Ocean and 5 miles beyond Point Barrow, AK, the
northernmost point of the North American Continent.
Amazing what these little Kolb airplanes will do, one leg at a time.
Point the nose to where you want to go and fly.
Normally takes me 7 days at 8 flight hours a day to reach North Pole,
AK, from Gantt IAP, AL. North Pole is about 20 miles south of
Fairbanks.
john h
mkIII - The little bird flew approximately 14,000 statute miles during
that 48 day flight.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15(at)juno.com> |
Here's what it looks like up here in the north country. These were taken on 1/13/10
in the Kolbra.
Ralph
Forest Lake airport, MN
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar 447
N91493 E-AB
1000 hours
23 years flying it
Kolbra 912UL
N20386
2 years flying it
120 hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283158#283158
Attachments:
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http://forums.matronics.com//files/runway_forest_lake_787.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
> Here's what it looks like up here in the north country. These were taken
on 1/13/10 in the Kolbra.
>
> Ralph
> Forest Lake airport, MN
Ralph/Gang:
I landed there in 2000, but it didn'te look like that. Grass was lush and
green. There was no one around. I kept heading north to Alaska.
Enjoyed your photos.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
>> Here's what it looks like up here in the north country. These were taken
on 1/13/10 in the Kolbra.
>>
>> Ralph
Forgot to ask how you are keeping your eng oil and CHT in the green in cold
country?
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "frank.goodnight" <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
Hi all,
I realize that almost anything can be used to tie down a airplane,
However I would like to find something light enough and compact enough
to take with me , in an already over loaded overcrowded a/c, and good
enough so that it will do the job in almost any situation. I seem to
ask more questions than anyone else on the list . Thats because all
this is new to me.Given enough time i hope I can answer questions as
well as ask them. Anyone know a brand or type they would recommend?--
and where to buy them-- I hate to spend money on something and then
find out that it was not what
I really needed, then have to buy again. I had much rather pay a
little more and get what I need the first time. I'm still gathering up
--stuff-- to go A/C camping with , soon as the weather gets a little
warmer ,Getting to be quite a pile.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar2
Brownsville , TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Speaking of electric fuel pumps... |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
... I need to post a correction to my previous comments (Thom will probably pop
my wrist for this) in the hopes this will be helpful to others.
In going through the installation manual, it turns out Rotax does recommend the
use of an auxiliary electric pump contrary to what I thought (when you're wrong,
you're wrong). this is in 14.2, "Operating limits" on the fuel system. They
also list the limits on the fuel pressure, etc. that's required for the overall
system. There's also a diagram for the fuel system, tho it looks like it now
reflects the new ASTM setup on the new motors which has the fuel distribution
block attached to the crossover tube on the carburettors.
Another mistake I've been unknowingly making is using 1/4" ID line on the draw
side of the pump. That fitting is a 5/16" - you'd have thought I'd have gotten
a clue with how hard it was to push that 1/4" line onto it all this time ;).
So you're actually supposed to use 5/16" line there. Strange but true.
I'm going to go ahead and replace mine with 5/16" soon as I get some in.
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283220#283220
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
> However I would like to find something light enough and compact enough
> to take with me , in an already over loaded overcrowded a/c, and good
> enough so that it will do the job in almost any situation.
> Frank Goodnight
Frank G/Gang:
I carry two sets of tie downs. One for dirt and softer conditions, and one
set for rocky soil.
For dirt I have titanium cork screw (doggy) tie downs. Kit comes with a
cordura bag and a titanium rod to help twist the augers into the ground.
Randy Simpson, Airtime Manufacturing, makes and sells them. He is the
gentleman that flew with Arty Trost from Oregon to Lakeland last year. Arty
may be able to provide contact info.
For rocky conditions, which are predominant out West, I have some home made
tie downs. We used 5/16" rebar, welded a chain loop on the side, just below
the top so you wohn't beat up the loop with your hammer, and sharpened the
bottom end. A small hatchet or hammer does a good job of driving them into
rocky soil. I carry a small hatchet. Might come in handy for cutting
firewood or killing bears. ;-)
I use 3/8" braided rope. Many airports have rotten tie down ropes, or no
ropes at all. If you land under extremely windy conditions, you won't be
able to leave your airplane to search for ropes, unless you have someone
hold the airplane for you. It is important to have enough rope to reach
widely spaced tie downs at some airports. Gaining more scope, by placing
tie downs further outboard and aft, provides additional holding capacity.
If you want the dimension of my rebar tie down stakes let me know and I will
go measure them.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Speaking of electric fuel pumps... |
> ... I need to post a correction to my previous comments
>
> In going through the installation manual, it turns out Rotax does
> recommend the use of an auxiliary electric pump contrary to what I thought
>
> Another mistake I've been unknowingly making is using 1/4" ID line on the
> draw side of the pump. That fitting is a 5/16"
>
> I'm going to go ahead and replace mine with 5/16" soon as I get some in.
>
> LS
Lucien/Gang:
That's ok. Most of us have been using aux pumps in all kinds of aircraft
for many years without experiencing pilot overload. ;-)
We have beat this subject to death, over the years, on the Kolb List. Don't
think it hurts anything though, because we have new folks come on board all
the time, and they probably have not been subjected to this information.
I've been using aux pumps since my Ultrastar days. I used two Mikuni pumps.
The Cuyuna had two crankcase ports for that reason.
The Pierberg fuel pump (used on Opel, Taunus, etc., automobiles for years)
has always had a larger intake nipple than the outlet nipple. Won't hurt
anything to use 5/16" fuel line on the intake side, however, I have always
used 1/4" with success. My 912ULS is happy with the fuel provided by the
engine driven pump, alone, sucking through a 1/4" line, at altitudes over
14,500 feet above sea level, for an hour and longer. That is good enough
for me. This is backed up by nearly 3,000 912 hours operating with the same
system. I am convinced it works well.
I'd change my intake fuel line to 5/16", but it would require three new
nipples and a lot of difficult work to access and replace. I don't bend
like I used to.
There are a lot of food Kolb builders and flyers on this List with many
years and many hours of experience. We have learned a lot, over the years,
about our little airplanes and engines.
john h
mkIII - Under tornado (not Titan) watch at hauck's holler, alabama.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | zeprep251(at)aol.com |
Frank,
The Claw,a tie down system in a bag with a special hammer and ropes.8 lbs
complete.
G Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: frank.goodnight <frank.goodnight(at)att.net>
Sent: Sun, Jan 24, 2010 10:46 am
Subject: Kolb-List: tie downs
t>
Hi all,
I realize that almost anything can be used to tie down a airplane, However
I would like to find something light enough and compact enough to take wi
th me , in an already over loaded overcrowded a/c, and good enough so tha
t it will do the job in almost any situation. I seem to ask more questions
than anyone else on the list . Thats because all this is new to me.Given
enough time i hope I can answer questions as well as ask them. Anyone kn
ow a brand or type they would recommend?--and where to buy them-- I hate
to spend money on something and then find out that it was not what
I really needed, then have to buy again. I had much rather pay a little mo
re and get what I need the first time. I'm still gathering up --stuff-- to
go A/C camping with , soon as the weather gets a little warmer ,Getting
to be quite a pile.
Frank Goodnight
Firestar2
Brownsville , TX
========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Kulp <undoctor(at)ptd.net> |
| Subject: | Posted photos unavailable |
John and other Kolbers,
I got Ralph's photos OK listed as attachments at the bottom. I never
get to see yours, though I'd like to. Can you post them as
attachments? I get the entire list for the day early the following
morning, if that helps.
BTW, I'm curious if you have English blood. Your wry sense of humor
makes me chuckle from time to time, as in your one sentence explanation
about cutting power in the video which covered everything from
responsibility for new borrowed aircraft to life itself. If you take
notice, Pat's understatements are similar at times.
It's interesting to me to observe the different regional personality
traits of many posters from all areas of the globe. As an OTR trucker
for decades, I've seen those regional differences in person, and to see
a post from our friend in ME, I can readily visualize the Mainiacs I've
worked with delivering ceramic tile to construction sites and warehouses
up there. Lebanon County, out where Dennis S. lives is worlds different
from Philly - and they're less than 100 miles apart. I'd sooner deliver
50 loads to Lancaster Co. or Lebanon area than 1 to Philly!
Going back up to Maine, the natives there can be as hard-headed as we
Pennsylvania Dutch, read: Deutch, can be. Delivered 48K of tile to a
tile-setter somewhere N of Portland. His worker had the Labor Readys
stack the tile 7 ctns high in the second floor of his barn. I brought
up the weight issue with the man, but he was sure it was OK. As we
counted the tile, the floor caved in. Poor guy lost his job.
It's cool, rainy, unKolb friendly, and few are flying. Please forgive
me for musing off-Kolb and onto Kolbers. There IS much more to this
list than the technical info available, though it's seldom mentioned
save for the rebuke of a few nasties now and then. I've gotten to meet
some posters at Homer's place, and I've only seen an expansion and a
sharper focus of the man behind the pen on the list.
To get back to the machine and it's purpose, before I go flying again
when the weather is cooperative, I have a gascolator I'm going to
install, and I'm going to buy a Kuntzleman SC103 strobe. There are 3
very active airports within 20 miles of where I fly out of, and my
"flying toothpick", as my friend Jim, who flies for Continental calls my
FF, is very hard to see. I would greatly appreciate any tips and/or
cautions from any who have done these installs. Location, wiring,
mounting, whatever. Your experience certainly trumps my logic and
common sense, which is pretty much the extent of my resources at this point.
My seed and nursery catalogs are streaming in. Makes me anxious for the
approaching season of planting and to flying; both very serious loves of
mine!
Best to all,
Dave Kulp
Bethlehem PA
FireFly 11DMK
* *
*From: * */"John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com
>/*
*Subject: * /*_Re: AD insurance_*/
* > Here's what it looks like up here in the north country. These were
taken on 1/13/10 in the Kolbra. > > Ralph > Forest Lake airport, MN
Ralph/Gang: I landed there in 2000, but it didn'te look like that. Grass
was lush and green. There was no one around. I kept heading north to
Alaska. Enjoyed your photos. john h mkIII
*
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15(at)juno.com> |
"John Hauck"
> Forgot to ask how you are keeping your eng oil and CHT in the green in cold country?
> john h
> mkIII
John, I bought some "residue-free" duct tape and taped off most of the coolant
radiator (in front only) and half of the oil cooler all of the way around. If
it's 20F or colder, I need to tape off all of the coolant radiator in front. I
can easily remove layers of tape according to the temperature that day. On this
particular day, the temp was 26F and I could have used a little more tape as
the oil temps were in the 140's and 150's. I like to see them around 175F to
195F.
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar 447
N91493 E-AB
1000 hours
23 years flying it
Kolbra 912UL
N20386
2 years flying it
120 hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283256#283256
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15(at)juno.com> |
The claw is good only for medium to hard soil conditions. If it's too soft, they
can pull right out. This is why John Hauck carries two sets. I tried to use
the doggie corkscrew tiedowns this past year at Oshkosh and they broke trying
to screw them into the rock-hard ground. I didn't carry my claws because I thought
I wouldn't need them. I rented two stakes from the red barn for $20. They
worked during a storm, but I would have felt better with the claws. Live and
learn ...
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar 447
N91493 E-AB
1000 hours
23 years flying it
Kolbra 912UL
N20386
2 years flying it
120 hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283258#283258
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
> John, I bought some "residue-free" duct tape and taped off most of the
coolant radiator (in front only) and half of the oil cooler all of the way
around. If it's 20F or colder, I need to tape off all of the coolant
radiator in front. I can easily remove layers of tape according to the
temperature that day. On this particular day, the temp was 26F and I could
have used a little more tape as the oil temps were in the 140's and 150's. I
like to see them around 175F to 195F.
>
> Ralph
Hard to keep a 912UL warm, they run much cooler than the 912ULS.
With the new Titan Exhaust System, I was flying in 60F OAT with two wraps of
2" tape on each side radiator. I have the oil cooler piggy backed on the
radiator. Basically, it the tape covers the area on each side that is
outside the width of the oil cooler.
I find 5,000 rpm is an ideal speed to operate both the UL and the ULS.
Anything below that and you will have to build a fire under the engine to
get the engine oil temp up to 190-210F to boil off condensation and
contaminants.
On my UL, I bypassed the oil cooler in the winter and temps would remain in
the normal range at 5,000 rpm and faster.
Do you have the official name of the residue free duct tape? Once the glue
gets on the hot radiator, it is very difficult to remove.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Posted photos unavailable |
Dave K/Gang:
If you missed the photos on the Digest Mode, go to the Kolb BBS and
scroll down. I just checked to see if they were available.
I have already deleted the two posts I attached the photos to.
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=67646&sid=3da1f6dc1a4ec3f
658f1d3e9346bf932
One of the reasons I enjoy flying around the Lower 48, Canada, and
Alaska, is being able to enjoy the different cultures in different
geographical areas. Of note is the fact that there are some really
great folks out there every where I go. Eye ball to eye ball contact is
so much better than email on the internet. It is very difficult to
write an email and please everyone, or keep from hurting their feelings,
or not get you point across the way it was intended. Pays to have tough
skin and drive on.
Yes, I have a lot of different breeds in me. I am 100% mongrel. Of all
the dog breeds and classifications, I think mongrel is the best. The
best dogs I have had over the years were mongrels.
As far as my feeble attempts at humor, I have been hanging around
Patrick Ladd to long. ;-)
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
> I knew I was going to get a comment on this. I like to zero out my
altimeter on the ground when I am flying locally because it's easier to see
exactly how high I am (a carry over from my ultralight days). The actual
field elevation at Forest Lake is 925'.
>
> Ralph
Ralph/Gang:
Yes, zero altitude at you home field is a carry over from UL training. Many
UL trainers had no formal flight training or experience. They didn't know
any better. They taught what they knew. This same attitude can be seen at
the UL fields at Lakeland and Oshkosh.
Zeroing the altimeter at your field elevation only works if you field is at
sea level.
It does not take long to learn to use the altimeter set at field elevation
to fly. Then everything else works, like terrain height, antennas, smoke
stacks, Talking to other pilots and control towers, etc.
Another bad trait I observe in the UL area of aviation, and some
experiemental and GA types, is not orienting the top of the map up as it is
held. They attempt to fly with the map oriented to the ground. Same same
orienting the moving map on the GPS. It takes a little bit of practice to
get used to North Being UP. Makes cardinal directions much easier to work
with instead of using up and down, left and right.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
At 03:51 PM 1/24/2010, John Hauck wrote:
>Yes, zero altitude at you home field is a carry over from UL
>training. Many UL trainers had no formal flight training or experience...
I always set to the field elevation... which, in my case, is sea
level. Unless you fly in true flatlands, or never go anywhere, nothing
else makes sense.
>Another bad trait I observe in the UL area of aviation, and some
>experiemental and GA types, is not orienting the top of the map up as it
>is held. They attempt to fly with the map oriented to the ground. Same
>same orienting the moving map on the GPS. It takes a little bit of
>practice to get used to North Being UP. Makes cardinal directions much
>easier to work with instead of using up and down, left and right.
I don't know about that. When I learned to fly, even in a college flight
school oriented to turning out airline pilots, I was taught to orient the
map to the ground, not north up. Makes it easier to visualize
terrain. Same for the GPS, though there's another reason there: on GPS
screens that are taller than they are wide, you need (and get) a better
view of where you're going than to to the sides. On my GPS, too, the
cursor indicating where I am is displayed in the lower half of the screen,
so it shows more of where I'm headed than where I've been.
-Dana
--
Diplomacy: Saying "nice doggy" until you find a rock.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
=======AVGMAIL-223A7870=======--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
Herb is a man of few words....
heh heh
On 24, Jan 2010, at 7:03 PM, Herb wrote:
> =======AVGMAIL-223A7870=======--
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Herbs messages are blank...I communicate well with all other |
lists...yahoo , private emails etc... Matt?? Do not archive...:-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
[quote="Dana"]At 03:51 PM 1/24/2010, John Hauck wrote:
> Yes, zero altitude at you home field is a carry over from UL training. Many
UL trainers had no formal flight training or experience...
I always set to the field elevation... which, in my case, is sea level. Unless
you fly in true flatlands, or never go anywhere, nothing else makes sense.
> Another bad trait I observe in the UL area of aviation, and some experiemental
and GA types, is not orienting the top of the map up as it is held. They attempt
to fly with the map oriented to the ground. Same same orienting the moving
map on the GPS. It takes a little bit of practice to get used to North Being
UP. Makes cardinal directions much easier to work with instead of using up
and down, left and right.
I don't know about that. When I learned to fly, even in a college flight school
oriented to turning out airline pilots, I was taught to orient the map to the
ground, not north up. Makes it easier to visualize terrain. Same for the
GPS, though there's another reason there: on GPS screens that are taller than
they are wide, you need (and get) a better view of where you're going than to
to the sides. On my GPS, too, the cursor indicating where I am is displayed
in the lower half of the screen, so it shows more of where I'm headed than where
I've been.
-Dana
--
Diplomacy: Saying "nice doggy" until you find a rock.
> [b]
I also orient the chart to match the ground, or at least I was taught that way.
I remember the CFI showing me how the outlines of lakes and towns along with
landmarks like a RR or a canyon could be used for this.
Still seems the easiest method to me when navigating by pilotage primarily, which
I've done on my last couple of trips.
I always set the altimeter to the local altimeter setting. This is what the other
guys are using so if it's off, everyone's off by the same amount and are flying
at the same altitudes. If I can't get an altimeter which is rare, I set to
the field elevation and reset as soon as I can pick up a nearby AWOS or ATIS.
Around here, we're indicating 6500' MSL on up before we even leave the ground,
so our actual AGL can take a little bit of math. Definitely a tax on my 6th grade
edeyukation. I'm slowly getting used to it, tho. 10,000'MSL is just a kick
around the patch....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283309#283309
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | russ kinne <russkinne(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
Still blank!
On Jan 24, 2010, at 7:03 PM, Herb wrote:
> =======AVGMAIL-223A7870=======--
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2010 7:55 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: AD insurance
>
> [quote="Dana"]At 03:51 PM 1/24/2010, John Hauck wrote:
>
>> Yes, zero altitude at you home field is a carry over from UL training.
>> Many UL trainers had no formal flight training or experience...
>
> I always set to the field elevation... which, in my case, is sea level.
> Unless you fly in true flatlands, or never go anywhere, nothing else makes
> sense.
>
>
>> Another bad trait I observe in the UL area of aviation, and some
>> experiemental and GA types, is not orienting the top of the map up as it
>> is held. They attempt to fly with the map oriented to the ground. Same
>> same orienting the moving map on the GPS. It takes a little bit of
>> practice to get used to North Being UP. Makes cardinal directions much
>> easier to work with instead of using up and down, left and right.
>
> I don't know about that. When I learned to fly, even in a college flight
> school oriented to turning out airline pilots, I was taught to orient the
> map to the ground, not north up. Makes it easier to visualize terrain.
> Same for the GPS, though there's another reason there: on GPS screens
> that are taller than they are wide, you need (and get) a better view of
> where you're going than to to the sides. On my GPS, too, the cursor
> indicating where I am is displayed in the lower half of the screen, so it
> shows more of where I'm headed than where I've been.
>
> -Dana
> --
> Diplomacy: Saying "nice doggy" until you find a rock.
>> [b]
>
>
> I also orient the chart to match the ground, or at least I was taught that
> way. I remember the CFI showing me how the outlines of lakes and towns
> along with landmarks like a RR or a canyon could be used for this.
>
> Still seems the easiest method to me when navigating by pilotage
> primarily, which I've done on my last couple of trips.
>
> I always set the altimeter to the local altimeter setting. This is what
> the other guys are using so if it's off, everyone's off by the same amount
> and are flying at the same altitudes. If I can't get an altimeter which is
> rare, I set to the field elevation and reset as soon as I can pick up a
> nearby AWOS or ATIS.
>
> Around here, we're indicating 6500' MSL on up before we even leave the
> ground, so our actual AGL can take a little bit of math. Definitely a tax
> on my 6th grade edeyukation. I'm slowly getting used to it, tho.
> 10,000'MSL is just a kick around the patch....
>
> LS
>
> --------
> LS
> Titan II SS
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283309#283309
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
| From: | "Ralph B" <ul15(at)juno.com> |
John, here in the flatlands the land elevation doesn't vary much. Local flights
are safer with the altimeter zeroed on the ground. It's not just a UL thing.
All aerobatic pilots do the same thing no matter where they are performing.
Ralph
--------
Ralph B
Original Firestar 447
N91493 E-AB
1000 hours
23 years flying it
Kolbra 912UL
N20386
2 years flying it
120 hrs
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283322#283322
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Speaking of electric fuel pumps... |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
John Hauck wrote:
>
> Lucien/Gang:
>
> That's ok. Most of us have been using aux pumps in all kinds of aircraft
> for many years without experiencing pilot overload. ;-)
>
> We have beat this subject to death, over the years, on the Kolb List. Don't
> think it hurts anything though, because we have new folks come on board all
> the time, and they probably have not been subjected to this information.
>
> I've been using aux pumps since my Ultrastar days. I used two Mikuni pumps.
> The Cuyuna had two crankcase ports for that reason.
>
> The Pierberg fuel pump (used on Opel, Taunus, etc., automobiles for years)
> has always had a larger intake nipple than the outlet nipple. Won't hurt
> anything to use 5/16" fuel line on the intake side, however, I have always
> used 1/4" with success. My 912ULS is happy with the fuel provided by the
> engine driven pump, alone, sucking through a 1/4" line, at altitudes over
> 14,500 feet above sea level, for an hour and longer. That is good enough
> for me. This is backed up by nearly 3,000 912 hours operating with the same
> system. I am convinced it works well.
>
> I'd change my intake fuel line to 5/16", but it would require three new
> nipples and a lot of difficult work to access and replace. I don't bend
> like I used to.
>
> There are a lot of food Kolb builders and flyers on this List with many
> years and many hours of experience. We have learned a lot, over the years,
> about our little airplanes and engines.
>
> john h
> mkIII - Under tornado (not Titan) watch at hauck's holler, alabama.
I'm slowly making my way through the 912 manuals, mostly we concentrate on the
maintenance and operator's manualss but there's a surprising amount of good info
in the installation manual that has to do with basic operation.
Just going through that manual alone, I've found several things I've had to review
how it's done on my plane already, i.e. how the carburettor vent lines were
handled and now the 5/16" ID line on the vacuum side. I've also had no trouble
with just 1/4" and changing it is a low priority item right now.
But it was an interesting find for me, anyway.
As for an electric pump, I do want to add a gascolator at some point. Again I havn't
had any trouble but now that I run E10 almost exclusively I'd probably feel
a little safer with a gascolator in the line eventually. At that point, I'll
probably add a backup electric pump along with.
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283331#283331
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Speaking of electric fuel pumps... |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Lucien,
I'm glad you are not forgetting the installation manual because, as you said, there
is much in there that is not (but should be) in the other manuals. If I
were Rotax I'd combine them all into a single manual thereby eliminating the redundancy
and making sure anyone who has the manual has it all.
Jabiru is similar in this regard. They have a "do not operate for extended time"
rpm range in the installation manual that does not appear in the operators'
manual, where it should also be unless it only applies to engine break-in period,
which is not made clear in either manual. On the plus side, Jabiru includes
their equivalent to a line maintenance manual in their operators' manual.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY
Kolb Slingshot SS-021
Jabiru 2200A #1574
Tennessee Prop 64x31
Write a wise saying and your name will live forever.
- Anonymous
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283335#283335
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: AD insurance |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
We Kolbers seem to have a bad habit of changing threads without changing subject
lines.
Regarding flying chart orientation, I spent most my working life doing machine
design, the first 20 years or so on a drawing board and the last part doing 3-D
modeling on computers. I've hired a few "draftsmen trainees" over the years
and found that the innate ability to re-orient shapes in your mind is NOT universal.
This ability is a flat out requirement for being a draftsman or mechanical
designer. Without it you can't really visualize what the various 2-d orthographic
drawing views mean in 3-D space.
I finally uncovered a study done that came up with a meaningful statistic. Only
about 1 in 7 people have the innate ability to re-orient shapes in their mind
correctly. Those who have this innate ability have no trouble with following
the chart with North UP. Those without this ability find it easier to have the
chart oriented according to your track across the ground. This does not mean
those without this ability are not good pilots (has nothing to do with pilot
skills) but it does have something to say about what works or does not work for
an individual regarding chart orientation.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY
Kolb Slingshot SS-021
Jabiru 2200A #1574
Tennessee Prop 64x31
Write a wise saying and your name will live forever.
- Anonymous
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283336#283336
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Speaking of electric fuel pumps... |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
Thom Riddle wrote:
> Lucien,
>
> I'm glad you are not forgetting the installation manual because, as you said,
there is much in there that is not (but should be) in the other manuals. If
I were Rotax I'd combine them all into a single manual thereby eliminating the
redundancy and making sure anyone who has the manual has it all.
>
> Jabiru is similar in this regard. They have a "do not operate for extended time"
rpm range in the installation manual that does not appear in the operators'
manual, where it should also be unless it only applies to engine break-in period,
which is not made clear in either manual. On the plus side, Jabiru includes
their equivalent to a line maintenance manual in their operators' manual.
Agreed. I do kind of wonder about some of the things. For instance, the MOI limits
on the prop are listed in the installation manual in 18.1 and surprisingly,
to me when I first read it anyway, the MOI limit on the 912 is the same as the
2-stroke C box! Makes you scratch your head a little.
There's also a caution "Never fit propellor directly on crankshaft", which looks
like an, er, cut-n-paste error from the 2-stroke manuals. There's no way I know
of to fit a prop onto the 912 crankshaft (at least not without a lot of disassembly
of the motor and effort in general ;)).
So I am a little skeptical about some of the things I'm reading. But there's stuff
like this in the 2-stroke manuals too, like the off-by-almost-100F CHT ranges
and limits......
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283342#283342
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
I recently received two new 5 gal tanks for the MkIII. The ones in it now are
at least 30 years old and yellowed.
They were old water treatment chemical throw-aways.
These appear to be at least as sturdy as my old ones and have the bonus of little
vents in the handles.
If interested here is where I got them:
http://www.utahbiodieselsupply.com/carboys.php
Price is good and delivery fast.
I also found a source that sells fluorinated tanks which are supposed to resist
ethanol. A bit more expensive.
Will fwd their site if interested.
BB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | broken exhaust sender clamp |
| From: | "cristalclear13" <cristalclearwaters(at)gmail.com> |
The clamp broke on both EGT senders. Is that strange?
The way it is built it looks like I will have to order entirely new senders. It
doesn't look like the clamp is sold separately or that it is possible to separate
the sender from the clamp.
--------
Cristal Waters
Kolb Mark II Twinstar
Rotax 503 DCSI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283645#283645
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/broken_exhaust_probe_clamp_106.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: broken exhaust sender clamp |
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Cut the old band clamp off with a Dremel tool. Get new band clamps that will fit
all the way around the manifold. Drill a hole in the clamp big enough that
the probe will slip through. Cut out a piece of thin metal about as big as a dime,
and drill a hole in it that will fit the probe just above the wide flange
where the old band originally held the probe in place. Cut a slot that same width
from the edge to the hole, slip it onto the probe just above the flange and
below the new band clamp and tighten it all down.
If it doesn't work, you are out the price of two hose clamps and a half hour of
fiddling.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283655#283655
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
At 10:43 AM 1/27/2010, robert bean wrote:
>I also found a source that sells fluorinated tanks which are supposed to
>resist ethanol. A bit more expensive.
You don't need a fluorinated tank to resist ethanol, plain old HDPE will do
fine. The fluorinated tanks are only needed in applications that need to
be CARB compliant; the fluorinated plastic has lower permeability to
hydrocarbon emissions... from the same folks who mandated "spill proof"
(which are actually pour proof) as can spouts.
-Dana
--
A flying saucer results when a nudist spills his coffee.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: broken exhaust sender clamp |
>
>The clamp broke on both EGT senders. Is that strange?
>
>The way it is built it looks like I will have to order entirely new
senders. It doesn't look like the clamp is sold separately or that it is
possible to separate the sender from the clamp.
>
>--------
>Cristal Waters
>Kolb Mark II Twinstar
>Rotax 503 DCSI
>
Cristal,
I would splice on a new screw end. Takes a few minutes and it is
inexpensive.
Find a matching hose clamp. Cut away the end with the slots in it. Drill a
hole through the cut solid clamp end that will pass over the probe. Put the
hole end over the probe and match up the two thicknesses, and drill an 1/8
inch ID hole through both. Cut away excess solid length. Insert a
stainless pop rivet through from the inside and pop it. Thread the old
clamping strip through the new screw end and tighten it into place.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rotax 582 cylinder head & Pistons |
| From: | "albertakolbmk3" <cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com> |
Well, after taking my lexan off and rewiring for my new EIS I decided to replace
all the fuel lines and re-do the fuel system. Since I had it that far apart
I decided to pull the engine off and go through it also... but that's as far as
I'm going :-). I thought I would attach some pictures showing the pistons and
head., they actually look pretty good (I thought) approx. 145 hrs. as I'm not
sure if the previous owner decarboned them or not. He told me he had put new
pistons in at I believe 330 hrs. Anyways, here's the pictures. You'll have to
excuse the quality as I took them with my phone.
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283729#283729
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0115_medium_533.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0116_medium_258.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0117_medium_949.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0119_medium_487.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 cylinder head & Pistons |
| From: | "albertakolbmk3" <cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com> |
Where's the best place (cheapest) to buy parts for these engines? Are these identical
to the 583 internally? Can I just buy 583 connecting rod bearings or wrist
pins if it needs them? Anything I should be looking for in particular that
is a known problem area for these engines?
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283746#283746
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 582 crank replacement |
| From: | "albertakolbmk3" <cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com> |
I realize that rotax says 300 hours but can a person magnaflux the crank to make
sure it's ok. I know people will argue "what is your life worth" but $1200.00
for a new crank is outrageous! I think rotax uses this fact to their advantage
(scare tactic). I'm pretty sure the original owner never replaced it at 300
hrs. It now has 475 hrs on it. Just want peoples opinions and what they have
done.
thanks,
Tony
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283804#283804
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b young" <by0ung(at)brigham.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel system layout |
Frank/All
I used to have a float ball in my fuel sight tube. I sized the ball so that
it was small enough to move freely in the sight tube but big enough to not
go through the tee to the fuel system. It work well till one day when I was
adding fuel it got stuck in the lower tee. This happened when my electronic
fuel gage was working intermittently and wouldn't you know the fuel gage
quit working at the same time. If you add one of these ball I would
recommend some kind of screen or stop that will keep the ball from entering
the fuel system and getting stuck in a fitting or worse.
Also if you are considering a capacitance type fuel gage sending unit you
will find that the calibration(accuracy) will change when you change between
auto fuel and 100LL.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I fixed the ball getting stuck in a fitting by cutting a very short piece of
fuel tubing and sliding it in the sight glass tube sidewards. One below
the float ball and one above the ball. The fuel would go around the piece
of tubing and the ball was captured. Later installed the Princeton
capacitance fuel sender. And did away with the sight glass. It was easier
to see the fuel quantity on the eis than twist my old neck to see the float.
I always do a visual inspection to make sure my calibrated eye and the gauge
compare. Then by knowing my fuel burn I know my duration and compare with
the gauge.
Boyd Young
MkIII
Utah
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel system layout |
That's the way a plumber would do it. ;-)
Boyd Y, who fixed the delta faucet in the pilots lounge at Moab Airport,
Utah, three or four years ago, while waiting for the dust and wind
storms to go somewhere else.
john h
mkIII
I fixed the ball getting stuck in a fitting by cutting a very short
piece of fuel tubing and sliding it in the sight glass tube sidewards.
Boyd Young
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "lhaggerty" <lhaggerty(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Is there a Fire Fly group? Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzimm(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 cylinder head & Pistons |
Tony,
No they are not identical, but they can be interchangeable. 583
pistons have only one piston ring per piston, and the piston skirt is
configured differently.
Aftermarket parts are less than half price of genuine Rotax, and I
have used them with no problem. But there is a certain level of
personal security that comes with knowing you are using genuine Rotax
parts that "may" be lacking in using the aftermarket parts. I
repeat ,,,,,, "may be", because I have no proof, or negative
experience.
Bore and stroke are identical between Rotax UL582 and 583 Snowmobile.
The only reason for replacing your genuine Rotax Elco pistons is if
they are worn out of tolerance, cracked, scored, or broken. Pistons
can be reused, but all the carbon must be carefully removed,
especially from the ring grooves, being careful not to gall the piston
in the process. Rod bearings are an integral part of the crankshaft
assembly, and your biggest concern should be the proper installation
of "ALL" the cageless piston pin needle bearings, and always using
NEW piston pin clips.
Good luck,
Gene Z
On Jan 28, 2010, at 8:28 AM, albertakolbmk3 wrote:
> >
>
> Where's the best place (cheapest) to buy parts for these engines?
> Are these identical to the 583 internally? Can I just buy 583
> connecting rod bearings or wrist pins if it needs them? Anything I
> should be looking for in particular that is a known problem area for
> these engines?
>
> --------
> Tony B.
>
> Kolb MKIII C
> Rotax 582
> C Gearbox 3.00:1
> WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283746#283746
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Zimmerman <etzimm(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 crank replacement |
Tony,
Much depends on your personal kind of flying and engine use, and your
personal level of risk tolerance.
Some people change out cranks at 300 hrs as Rotax recommends, and some
people have gone over 1000 hrs without failure and without ever once
opening the engine.
It is your choice.
Gene
On Jan 28, 2010, at 1:23 PM, albertakolbmk3 wrote:
> >
>
> I realize that rotax says 300 hours but can a person magnaflux the
> crank to make sure it's ok. I know people will argue "what is your
> life worth" but $1200.00 for a new crank is outrageous! I think
> rotax uses this fact to their advantage (scare tactic). I'm pretty
> sure the original owner never replaced it at 300 hrs. It now has 475
> hrs on it. Just want peoples opinions and what they have done.
>
> thanks,
>
> Tony
>
> --------
> Tony B.
>
> Kolb MKIII C
> Rotax 582
> C Gearbox 3.00:1
> WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283804#283804
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 582 crank replacement |
> Some people change out cranks at 300 hrs as Rotax recommends, and some
> people have gone over 1000 hrs without failure and without ever once
> opening the engine.
>
> It is your choice.
>
> Gene
I agree with Gene Z.
ROTAX TBO for uncertified engines are "recommended" only.
Who knows when the bearings will fail? I had a PTO end main bearing failure
on a brand new Cuyuna ULII02 at 10.0 hours.
447 wrist pin bearing failure when we were still running caged bearings.
Don't remember how much time was on the engine.
john h
mkIII
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582 crank replacement |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
albertakolbmk3 wrote:
> I realize that rotax says 300 hours but can a person magnaflux the crank to make
sure it's ok. I know people will argue "what is your life worth" but $1200.00
for a new crank is outrageous! I think rotax uses this fact to their advantage
(scare tactic). I'm pretty sure the original owner never replaced it at 300
hrs. It now has 475 hrs on it. Just want peoples opinions and what they have
done.
>
> thanks,
>
> Tony
There's a fair bit of field experience on this that can help gauge what to do.
Generally, with the 582, the probability of failures with the crank start to increase
significantly after about 300 hours. The 582 is suped up a bit more than
the other air-cooled motors (503 and 447) and the crank is a weaker spot than
on those.
It also depends on how hard the engine is run. The 582 isn't quite as durable at
high power settings as the 503 and especially the 447. So if it lives at 6000+
rpm all the time, for instance, I'd personally make crank replacement required
at 300 hours.
I've seen 582 cranks weld themselves together on the bottom end at as low as 40
or 50 hours, tho that's fairly rare as long as the engine isn't run too hard.
I've seen another come out of the case at 150 hours with almost 10 times the
runout limit on the PTO end (failure was imminent in that instance).
My personal take: If I were running a 582:
- if typical power settings were 6000 rpm + all the time, crank replacement at
300 hours would be required regardless of visible condition (this is an underpowered
or borderline abusive situation, IMO).
- 5400 to 6000, I'd start being more vigilant about keeping landing areas in reach
around the 300 hour mark.
- 5200 to 5400, I wouldn't worry too much about replacement at 300 hours. I'd let
it go to 400 or so.
But that's just my personal take based on what I've seen with the 582 over the
years out in the field. YMMV.
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283898#283898
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 cylinder head & Pistons |
| From: | "albertakolbmk3" <cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com> |
I noticed that the piston ring was stuck in its groove on one side of the piston
(both pistons on the same side). I will measure the pistons and see if they
are within tolerance. I noticed some scoring on the intake side (possibly ice???)
I know the previous owner flew in the winter quite a bit. The cylinder walls
look good.
The piston connecting rod bearings I can use off of a 583?
I see ebay they have rebuild kits for the UL582, any good?279.99 for gasket set,
pistons, rings.
Where's the best place to buy parts for these?
Thanks,
Tony
--------
Tony B.
Kolb MKIII C
Rotax 582
C Gearbox 3.00:1
WD 66" 3 Blade Prop
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283901#283901
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 cylinder head & Pistons |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
albertakolbmk3 wrote:
> Where's the best place (cheapest) to buy parts for these engines? Are these identical
to the 583 internally? Can I just buy 583 connecting rod bearings or
wrist pins if it needs them? Anything I should be looking for in particular that
is a known problem area for these engines?
There is no cheap place to buy 582 parts because there are no cheap 582 parts.
Again just speaking personally, I wouldn't put anything other than the correct/OEM
582 parts inside a 582 especially anything having to do with the crank and
pistons. The metallurgy, I'm told, of the sno-mo pistons is different than the
stock Elco ones (these are harder and have a lower expansion rate to help prevent
cold siezures).
Steve Beatty has been rebuilding Rotax cranks for many years, but I have no personal
oexperience with those (I've generally heard good things anecdotally).
Like I said, the crank is the weak spot in the 582 especially the bottom end. For
example, if you were to lay out 447, 503 and 582 cranks on a table side-by-side,
you'd be hard pressed to see any big difference in size (except for the
helical gears on the 582 crank that drive the RV). Yet the power output difference
between the engines is pretty dramatic.
The top end, RV shaft and other parts of the engine generally don't give trouble
and last for a long time.
There was a rumor for a while that Rotax was working on an updated crank for the
582 but that that was apparently dropped after a while. I'd imagine that was
because of the general decline in 2-stroke sales for Rotax. They're probably
putting the lion's share of their cash and R&D into other motors like the 912
series.
Too bad because the 582 is a fantastic running engine with very good power/weight....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283903#283903
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 cylinder head & Pistons |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
albertakolbmk3 wrote:
> I noticed that the piston ring was stuck in its groove on one side of the piston
(both pistons on the same side). I will measure the pistons and see if they
are within tolerance. I noticed some scoring on the intake side (possibly ice???)
I know the previous owner flew in the winter quite a bit. The cylinder walls
look good.
> The piston connecting rod bearings I can use off of a 583?
> I see ebay they have rebuild kits for the UL582, any good?279.99 for gasket set,
pistons, rings.
> Where's the best place to buy parts for these?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tony
The rings on the 2-strokes generally start to stick around the 100 hour mark and
usually in the vicinity of the gap. But they stay free enough to allow the motor
to run normally for a quite a while after that.
But at the 150 hr teardown, it's normal to have at least some sticking of the rings
(a piece of old ring is the best tool to clean out the groove, btw. I still
have some in my 2-stroke toolset).
Scoring on the pistons indicates mild siezures, probably cold siezure from poor
throttle management (lots of idling followed by immediate hammering to wide open
and holding it there). Personally, I probably wouldn't put scored pistons
back in the engine and would practice good throttle technique on the new ones.
Personally (again), I would never put anything into a 582 that came from an uknown
source. It's far cheaper overall to get the OEM parts from a Rotax dealer
- the engine is in a known state after that and you're not banging up the plane
or worse in engine-out/engine-falter situations....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283905#283905
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 cylinder head & Pistons |
Here's a 90hp 1.3 suzuki (4 cyl/4stroke) available from the flygeo
site:
(contact) rdace AT hansoninfosys.com
No decarboning or 300 crankshaft replacement. He's asking $6200
including redrive and some gauges.
BB
On 29, Jan 2010, at 9:34 AM, lucien wrote:
>
>
> albertakolbmk3 wrote:
>> I noticed that the piston ring was stuck in its groove on one side of
the piston (both pistons on the same side). I will measure the pistons
and see if they are within tolerance. I noticed some scoring on the
intake side (possibly ice???) I know the previous owner flew in the
winter quite a bit. The cylinder walls look good.
>> The piston connecting rod bearings I can use off of a 583?
>> I see ebay they have rebuild kits for the UL582, any good?279.99 for
gasket set, pistons, rings.
>> Where's the best place to buy parts for these?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Tony
>
>
> The rings on the 2-strokes generally start to stick around the 100
hour mark and usually in the vicinity of the gap. But they stay free
enough to allow the motor to run normally for a quite a while after
that.
> But at the 150 hr teardown, it's normal to have at least some sticking
of the rings (a piece of old ring is the best tool to clean out the
groove, btw. I still have some in my 2-stroke toolset).
>
> Scoring on the pistons indicates mild siezures, probably cold siezure
from poor throttle management (lots of idling followed by immediate
hammering to wide open and holding it there). Personally, I probably
wouldn't put scored pistons back in the engine and would practice good
throttle technique on the new ones.
>
> Personally (again), I would never put anything into a 582 that came
from an uknown source. It's far cheaper overall to get the OEM parts
from a Rotax dealer - the engine is in a known state after that and
you're not banging up the plane or worse in engine-out/engine-falter
situations....
>
> LS
>
> --------
> LS
> Titan II SS
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283905#283905
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 cylinder head & Pistons |
Robert
I'm not the #1 fan of Rotax but isn't that 4 cyl Suzuki kind of heavy?
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: robert bean
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 10:00 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax 582 cylinder head & Pistons
Here's a 90hp 1.3 suzuki (4 cyl/4stroke) available from the flygeo
site:
(contact) rdace AT hansoninfosys.com
No decarboning or 300 crankshaft replacement. He's asking $6200
including redrive and some gauges.
BB
On 29, Jan 2010, at 9:34 AM, lucien wrote:
albertakolbmk3 wrote:
I noticed that the piston ring was stuck in its groove on one side
of the piston (both pistons on the same side). I will measure the
pistons and see if they are within tolerance. I noticed some scoring on
the intake side (possibly ice???) I know the previous owner flew in the
winter quite a bit. The cylinder walls look good.
The piston connecting rod bearings I can use off of a 583?
I see ebay they have rebuild kits for the UL582, any good?279.99
for gasket set, pistons, rings.
Where's the best place to buy parts for these?
Thanks,
Tony
The rings on the 2-strokes generally start to stick around the 100
hour mark and usually in the vicinity of the gap. But they stay free
enough to allow the motor to run normally for a quite a while after
that.
But at the 150 hr teardown, it's normal to have at least some
sticking of the rings (a piece of old ring is the best tool to clean out
the groove, btw. I still have some in my 2-stroke toolset).
Scoring on the pistons indicates mild siezures, probably cold
siezure from poor throttle management (lots of idling followed by
immediate hammering to wide open and holding it there). Personally, I
probably wouldn't put scored pistons back in the engine and would
practice good throttle technique on the new ones.
Personally (again), I would never put anything into a 582 that came
from an uknown source. It's far cheaper overall to get the OEM parts
from a Rotax dealer - the engine is in a known state after that and
you're not banging up the plane or worse in engine-out/engine-falter
situations....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283905#283905
- The Kolb-List -->
&n========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | robert bean <slyck(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 cylinder head & Pistons |
According to builder legend it weighs somewhere around 15 lbs more than
the 3 cyl.
If so, then carefully built, it would be about 155-160.
I overlooked the fact that the engine combo I suggested was for a
tractor installation and the redrive
may have a too high thrust line. Some major butchering of the upper
tier of your MkIII may be necessary.
With the G10 on my Kolb, since I made no airframe mods, I could pop it
off and install any factory-ready
engine like a 912 in short order.
BB
On 29, Jan 2010, at 12:20 PM, Richard & Martha Neilsen wrote:
> Robert
>
> I'm not the #1 fan of Rotax but isn't that 4 cyl Suzuki kind of heavy?
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: robert bean
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 10:00 AM
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax 582 cylinder head & Pistons
>
> Here's a 90hp 1.3 suzuki (4 cyl/4stroke) available from the flygeo
site:
> (contact) rdace AT hansoninfosys.com
>
> No decarboning or 300 crankshaft replacement. He's asking $6200
including redrive and some gauges.
> BB
> On 29, Jan 2010, at 9:34 AM, lucien wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> albertakolbmk3 wrote:
>>> I noticed that the piston ring was stuck in its groove on one side
of the piston (both pistons on the same side). I will measure the
pistons and see if they are within tolerance. I noticed some scoring on
the intake side (possibly ice???) I know the previous owner flew in the
winter quite a bit. The cylinder walls look good.
>>> The piston connecting rod bearings I can use off of a 583?
>>> I see ebay they have rebuild kits for the UL582, any good?279.99 for
gasket set, pistons, rings.
>>> Where's the best place to buy parts for these?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Tony
>>
>>
>> The rings on the 2-strokes generally start to stick around the 100
hour mark and usually in the vicinity of the gap. But they stay free
enough to allow the motor to run normally for a quite a while after
that.
>> But at the 150 hr teardown, it's normal to have at least some
sticking of the rings (a piece of old ring is the best tool to clean out
the groove, btw. I still have some in my 2-stroke toolset).
>>
>> Scoring on the pistons indicates mild siezures, probably cold siezure
from poor throttle management (lots of idling followed by immediate
hammering to wide open and holding it there). Personally, I probably
wouldn't put scored pistons back in the engine and would practice good
throttle technique on the new ones.
>>
>> Personally (again), I would never put anything into a 582 that came
from an uknown source. It's far cheaper overall to get the OEM parts
from a Rotax dealer - the engine is in a known state after that and
you're not banging up the plane or worse in engine-out/engine-falter
situations....
>>
>> LS
>>
>> --------
>> LS
>> Titan II SS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283905#283905
>>
>>
>>
>> - The Kolb-List --> &n=========
==============
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Welch <mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 cylinder head & Pistons |
Bob and Rick N.=2C Kolb guys=2C
In my opinion=2C I think the 160 lbs idea for the 1.3L GEO is more than o
ptimistic. When you add things like a radiator=2C coolant=2C hoses=2C redr
ive=2C and such=2C I'd bet you're a lot closer to 190-200 lbs for the 1.3L
GEO. Maybe I'm wrong on the true total weight=2C but I bet the complete pa
ckage comes in closer to 200 lbs than 160. Just my opinion.
In my experience=2C the person who chooses to go with a Suzuki engine com
bo is NOT doing it because of the weight. More than likely=2C he/she is no
t anal about the engine weight=2C but prefers the low fuel consumption=2C 4
cycle engine dependability=2C inexpensive rebuild=2C lower purchase price
=2C etc=2C along with other factors.
As discussed before=2C an auto conversion engine is not for everyone. So
me people are more comfortable with what they feel is a "real" airplane eng
ine. That's understandable=2C because they do get to make their decision
for themselves=2C after all.
But=2C for those that do decide to go with either a GEO=2C VW=2C BMW=2C Y
amaha=2C Subaru=2C and a list of others=2C there are countless hundreds=2C
maybe thousands of pilots that have hundreds of hours of dependable service
from their machines. A dependable=2C fuel efficient auto engine conversio
n is a choice some builders ought to consider.
One more thing...... For some builders (some!!)=2C if they had to wait
until they had the money to buy a new Rotax 912=2C plus shell out 12 grand
for a kit=2C they just wouldn't ever get to build a plane. Although some
of these auto engine conversions aren't exactly cheap=2C many can be had fo
r around $7-8=2C000. This price allows the possibilty of building a plane
to a lot of people. For many=2C it's either this=2C or nothing.
Mike Welch
MkIII CX
From: slyck(at)frontiernet.net
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax 582 cylinder head & Pistons
Date: Fri=2C 29 Jan 2010 12:51:41 -0500
According to builder legend it weighs somewhere around 15 lbs more than the
3 cyl.
If so=2C then carefully built=2C it would be about 155-160.
I overlooked the fact that the engine combo I suggested was for a tractor i
nstallation and the redrive
may have a too high thrust line. Some major butchering of the upper tier o
f your MkIII may be necessary.
With the G10 on my Kolb=2C since I made no airframe mods=2C I could pop it
off and install any factory-ready
engine like a 912 in short order.
BB
On 29=2C Jan 2010=2C at 12:20 PM=2C Richard & Martha Neilsen wrote:
Robert
I'm not the #1 fan of Rotax but isn't that 4 cyl Suzuki kind of heavy?
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: robert bean
Sent: Friday=2C January 29=2C 2010 10:00 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax 582 cylinder head & Pistons
Here's a 90hp 1.3 suzuki (4 cyl/4stroke) available from the flygeo site:
(contact) rdace AT hansoninfosys.com
No decarboning or 300 crankshaft replacement. He's asking $6200 including
redrive and some gauges.
BB
On 29=2C Jan 2010=2C at 9:34 AM=2C lucien wrote:
albertakolbmk3 wrote:
I noticed that the piston ring was stuck in its groove on one side of the p
iston (both pistons on the same side). I will measure the pistons and see i
f they are within tolerance. I noticed some scoring on the intake side (pos
sibly ice???) I know the previous owner flew in the winter quite a bit. The
cylinder walls look good.
The piston connecting rod bearings I can use off of a 583?
I see ebay they have rebuild kits for the UL582=2C any good?279.99 for gask
et set=2C pistons=2C rings.
Where's the best place to buy parts for these?
Thanks=2C
Tony
The rings on the 2-strokes generally start to stick around the 100 hour mar
k and usually in the vicinity of the gap. But they stay free enough to allo
w the motor to run normally for a quite a while after that.
But at the 150 hr teardown=2C it's normal to have at least some sticking of
the rings (a piece of old ring is the best tool to clean out the groove=2C
btw. I still have some in my 2-stroke toolset).
Scoring on the pistons indicates mild siezures=2C probably cold siezure fro
m poor throttle management (lots of idling followed by immediate hammering
to wide open and holding it there). Personally=2C I probably wouldn't put s
cored pistons back in the engine and would practice good throttle technique
on the new ones.
Personally (again)=2C I would never put anything into a 582 that came from
an uknown source. It's far cheaper overall to get the OEM parts from a Rota
x dealer - the engine is in a known state after that and you're not banging
up the plane or worse in engine-out/engine-falter situations....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
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| From: | "Richard & Martha Neilsen" <NeilsenRM(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Alternitive Engines |
Robert
That sounds super. A few years ago a guy was putting a 4 cyl Geo (same
engine?) on his Kolb and it weighed some where around 190-200 lbs. Again
that's what I was told. Rotax has a advertised weight of 30-40 lbs less
than my VW but when installed they mysteriously weigh about the same.
Eggenfellner was showing a Honda car 1500cc engine conversion with their
redrive on it at Sebring. They claim 117HP @ 6,600RPM peak (110 @ 5800)
with a weight of 199Lbs. The conversion kit with your engine is $7000
(complete engine $12,000) but that was with the conversion engine laid
down about 45 degrees. Might be less upright?
I made a "major improvement" to the Kolb engine mount to lower the VW
enough to get a good thrust line but mounting a Rotax now would be, lets
say, different.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: robert bean
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax 582 cylinder head & Pistons
According to builder legend it weighs somewhere around 15 lbs more
than the 3 cyl.
If so, then carefully built, it would be about 155-160.
I overlooked the fact that the engine combo I suggested was for a
tractor installation and the redrive
may have a too high thrust line. Some major butchering of the upper
tier of your MkIII may be necessary.
With the G10 on my Kolb, since I made no airframe mods, I could pop it
off and install any factory-ready
engine like a 912 in short order.
BB
On 29, Jan 2010, at 12:20 PM, Richard & Martha Neilsen wrote:
Robert
I'm not the #1 fan of Rotax but isn't that 4 cyl Suzuki kind of
heavy?
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
----- Original Message -----
From: robert bean
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 10:00 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Rotax 582 cylinder head & Pistons
Here's a 90hp 1.3 suzuki (4 cyl/4stroke) available from the
flygeo site:
(contact) rdace AT hansoninfosys.com
No decarboning or 300 crankshaft replacement. He's asking $6200
including redrive and some gauges.
BB
On 29, Jan 2010, at 9:34 AM, lucien wrote:
albertakolbmk3 wrote:
I noticed that the piston ring was stuck in its groove on one
side of the piston (both pistons on the same side). I will measure the
pistons and see if they are within tolerance. I noticed some scoring on
the intake side (possibly ice???) I know the previous owner flew in the
winter quite a bit. The cylinder walls look good.
The piston connecting rod bearings I can use off of a 583?
I see ebay they have rebuild kits for the UL582, any
good?279.99 for gasket set, pistons, rings.
Where's the best place to buy parts for these?
Thanks,
Tony
The rings on the 2-strokes generally start to stick around the
100 hour mark and usually in the vicinity of the gap. But they stay free
enough to allow the motor to run normally for a quite a while after
that.
But at the 150 hr teardown, it's normal to have at least some
sticking of the rings (a piece of old ring is the best tool to clean out
the groove, btw. I still have some in my 2-stroke toolset).
Scoring on the pistons indicates mild siezures, probably cold
siezure from poor throttle management (lots of idling followed by
immediate hammering to wide open and holding it there). Personally, I
probably wouldn't put scored pistons back in the engine and would
practice good throttle technique on the new ones.
Personally (again), I would never put anything into a 582 that
came from an uknown source. It's far cheaper overall to get the OEM
parts from a Rotax dealer - the engine is in a known state after that
and you're not banging up the plane or worse in engine-out/engine-falter
situations....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283905#283905
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax 582 cylinder head & Pistons |
Hi Gang:
Rick Neilsen does not like Rotax, period. If you do not believe me ask
him. He is a VW guy through and through. He wouldn't fly with a 912ULS
if Rotax gave it to him, delivered and installed, with a little hug and
a kiss to go with it.
However, you would not have believed the reaction I got from Rick when
he flew with me out of Goulding's mile high airstrip at Monument Valley
last year, or a couple a years ago. Even though he is not a #1 fan of
Rotax, he sure had a big grin on his mug when we took off and climbed
steeply out of Gouding's. Not hard for me to tell when someone is
surprised and a little impressed. I may be wrong, but it won't be the
first time, or the last, I am sure of that.
Being a flat land furriner, I was a little impressed with the little
MKIII myself. ;-)
Anxious to get ready and fly to Monument Valley this May.
john hauck
MKIII
Titus, Alabama
I'm not the #1 fan of Rotax but isn't that 4 cyl Suzuki kind of
heavy?
Rick Neilsen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternitive Kolb Engines |
Rick/Gang:
I understand completely, and was being somewhat facetious in some of my
comments about you and 912 engines.
If I had access to a 4 stroke alternative engine that would provide as
good performance, service, and reliability as the 912 series engines,
for a lot less money, I'd be the first in line to get one.
You guys that are working on alternative engines need to get them
operational and get some hours on them. Make some significant flights.
Fly them to Oshkosh, Lakeland, and other flyins. Show folks you have
something to compete with the performance and reliability of the 912
series engines, by getting out there and doing it. By getting out there
and putting hours and miles on them, you encourage others to do the
same.
john hauck
mkIII
titus, alabama
Yes I was impressed with your airplane it flew better than I imagined
at Monument Valley, thanks again for the ride. But Mike Welch summed it
up well. Some people just can't afford the price of a 912 Rotax. My goal
is to lower the cost of safe flying so more people can.
Rick Neilsen
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternitive Kolb Engines |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
John Hauck wrote:
> Rick/Gang:
>
> You guys that are working on alternative engines need to get them operational
and get some hours on them. Make some significant flights. Fly them to Oshkosh,
Lakeland, and other flyins. Show folks you have something to compete
with the performance and reliability of the 912 series engines, by getting out
there and doing it. By getting out there and putting hours and miles on them,
you encourage others to do the same.
>
> john hauck
> mkIII
> titus, alabama
>
Agreed. The problem Rotax has always presented to their competitors is that they
work at the job of cranking props on airplanes. Somehow they've solved this
particular problem on their engines.
In the 2-stroke market, the Rotax were (and still are) the only models that could
truly do continuous high power without burning up or spooling up parts. You
pretty much just bolt them on and go fly, and they run for a pretty well known
legnth of time before needing something major done to them.
The early (non-provision) models were basically sno-mo conversions with pretty
much the only difference being the exhaust. Those did break cranks and had occasional
cooling problems. But those problems were solved with the provision 4
and then 8 crankcases and new crankshafts, along with the introduction of the
gearboxes. The C box is probably the best 2-stroke gearbox design on the market.
Now you literally just hoist it out of the box, bolt it to the plane, hook it up,
break it in and go fly. None of the competitors that I know of can really boast
that at the current time.
As for the 912, it's pretty much the same thing. We know how to run them, install
them, jet them and prop them.
In light aircraft 4-strokes, the only competitor I know of that's approaching that
is Jabiru. But they're still working the bugs out, still some kind of scary
problems going on there from what I've been able to gather about them. And they
don't have a PSRU, which you'd really need to use them on a plane like the
Kolb due to their still relatively high-rpm operation.
So.... I hate to say this, but you really do get an awful lot for your 20 grand
when you buy a 912 and same with any of the Rotax 2-strokes. Most of the grunt
work as far as installation, running, etc., has already been done for you.
There's a lot more to it than just the engine itself. It's all the other knowledge
and debugging that's already gone into them. Unfortunately, Rotax is still
at the top of the heap as far as all these extras go.
So in my view that's kind of what the competitors are up against and why so many
of them have failed. And the aviation market is not something fun to try to
sell anything into what with all the litigation and such garbage you have to deal
with....
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284026#284026
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firefly for X-Plane, 3 view drawings |
| From: | Bob Kravis <bob.kravis(at)gmail.com> |
I am going to attempt to create a Firefly for the simulator. To let me fly
next to the woodstove as it is -4 degrees here in Greenville, Maine this
morning.
To start the project I need front, top and side views with dimensions. If
anybody has these and could scan them and email them to me I would greatly
appreciate the help.
Also it would be more accurate if I could pick an airfoil that approximates
the actual one used. Any suggestions?
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firefly for X-Plane, 3 view drawings |
| From: | Ellery Batchelder Jr <elleryweld(at)aol.com> |
Bob Kravis
I think if you look in Jack B.Harts web site you will find the info you ar
e looking for here is a link to his site
http://jackbhart.com/firefly/firefly.html
Ellery Batchelder Jr.
in Maine Mk3C
N213 582 Blue head
Garmin AERA
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Kravis <bob.kravis(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Sat, Jan 30, 2010 10:00 am
Subject: Kolb-List: Firefly for X-Plane, 3 view drawings
I am going to attempt to create a Firefly for the simulator. To let me fl
y next to the woodstove as it is -4 degrees here in Greenville, Maine this
morning.
To start the project I need front, top and side views with dimensions. If
anybody has these and could scan them and email them to me I would greatl
y appreciate the help.
Also it would be more accurate if I could pick an airfoil that approximate
s the actual one used. Any suggestions?
Bob
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firefly for X-Plane, 3 view drawings |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Bob, I can't help you with the airplane, but the closest I've ever found for
any of the Kolb airfoils is the NACA 66 from the mid 1920's.
Rick Girard
On Sat, Jan 30, 2010 at 9:00 AM, Bob Kravis wrote:
> I am going to attempt to create a Firefly for the simulator. To let me fly
> next to the woodstove as it is -4 degrees here in Greenville, Maine this
> morning.
> To start the project I need front, top and side views with dimensions. If
> anybody has these and could scan them and email them to me I would greatly
> appreciate the help.
> Also it would be more accurate if I could pick an airfoil that approximates
> the actual one used. Any suggestions?
> Bob
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternitive Kolb Engines |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Lucien said: ....In light aircraft 4-strokes, the only competitor I know of that's
approaching that is Jabiru. But they're still working the bugs out, still
some kind of scary problems going on there from what I've been able to gather
about them.....
Having owned several 912UL powered airplanes and now flying a Jabiru 2200 powered
Kolb, I can tell you that the vast majority of the problems you've heard about
regarding the Jabiru engines were self-inflicted by the owners/builders who
did not follow the Jabiru installation and/or operation & maintenance manuals.
Most of the overheating problems occur in fully cowled tractor configurations
in which the cowling exit was not designed/built correctly. If the kit manufacturer
provides a FWF kit, and the builder follows the installation manual,
overheating is a non-issue unless way too much time is spent on the ground. This
is one area that liquid cooling or fan-cooling has a real advantage, whether
the engine is a Jabiru or Lycoming. With my engine hanging out in the breeze
I don't even need an oil cooler to stay in the green in both oil temp and CHT.
One problem found when they went to hydraulic lifters a few years ago was that
they needed a vent in the rocker chamber to improve the oil flow. An SB was issued
which was easily and quickly complied with in the field that corrected that
problem that should have been caught before it was released. I know of no other
big issues that are not largely self-inflicted. Anyone who has been around
Rotax 912 engines for a while knows that you can't treat them like Lycomings
and expect them to last long, and most problems found by owners of 912 engines
have been self-inflicted due to ignorance, just like on Jabirus.
Both Rotax and Jabiru are in a process of continuous design and make periodic changes
to improve the product or reduce the cost to manufacture and support them.
That said, I like the 912UL a little better than the Jabiru 2200, mostly because
of the PSRU which gives lower prop noise at cruise rpm. If propped correctly,
the difference in low speed thrust is not an issue unless you fly in/out of
a really short/tight field, like John H does. BUT the Jabiru does have some advantages
over the 912, which I won't bother to list here. Both are very good engines
if installed and operated properly. Likewise, both can become boat anchor
very quickly if you don't follow the proper procedures.
I admire anyone who is experimenter enough to try unproven engines in their flying
machines. I'm just not one of them.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY
Kolb Slingshot SS-021
Jabiru 2200A #1574
Tennessee Prop 64x31
I believe that banking institutions are more dangerous to our liberties than standing
armies.
- Thomas Jefferson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284142#284142
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternitive Kolb Engines |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
Thom,
Speaking of the Jab again, a couple other problems I've heard about that I still
keep hearing about are high oil consumption in certain (seemingly random?) cases
and problems with fretting where the flywheel attaches to the crankshaft.
I think the latter is with the 2200 but can't remember offhand.
Those are two of the scary things I keep hearing about on the Jab lists that I
havn't heard whether they're resolved or not.
Another is problems with the distributor where there's wearing on the shaft or
something along those lines.
Any ideas or info about those by chance? Obviously, since I'm not an owner I only
have the reports I read on lists and so on to go on and don't have access to
what Jabiru themselves actually have said about it (other than perhaps service
bulletins).
We've corresponded about this already, but when I do eventually decide to build
(a Kolb is one of the planes on the list) the Jab is one of the engines I'm considering
(probably the 2200).
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284146#284146
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternitive Kolb Engines |
>So.... I hate to say this, but you really do get an awful lot for your 20
grand when you buy a 912 and same with any of the Rotax 2-strokes. Most of
the grunt work as far as installation, running, etc., has already been done
for you.
>
Lucien,
In my experience with two cycle engines, there seems to be plenty of "grunt
work" left. For all the good things that Rotax and others have done to adapt
two cycle engines for aircraft, they have not provided the pilot with a means
for effective engine management. I believe the inability, during flight, to
adjust air fuel mixture is the largest single cause of premature two cycle
engine failure.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternitive Kolb Engines |
I believe the inability, during flight, to
> adjust air fuel mixture is the largest single cause of premature two cycle
> engine failure.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
Jack H/Gang:
If you and I really knew what the numbers were, I bet there would be far
more engine outs and engine failures caused because the pilot had in flight
manual mixture control. Not only two strokes, but certified aircraft
engines as well. You don't hear about it normally, but a lot of pistons and
valves are burned in Lycomings and Continentals because of overagressive
leaning.
First engine out I experienced was caused by a CPS remote mixture control on
my Cuyuna ULII02 powered Ultrastar, December 1984. The Cuyuna was very
sensitve to main fuel mixture changes. Had a bad habit of shutting down
completely if it went a hair over the rich side, just like hitting the kill
switch.
Seems to me you are more interested in fuel economy than performance, and
that is what drives your desire to lean out your two strokes to the max.
Based on the number of engines you have gone through and the number of hours
flown, you probably still have a lot of experimenting to do before you get
your system simple and reliable. I wish you a great deal of success with
your experiments.
It is very difficult to remember to manage a main fuel mixture control in an
ultralight, whether two or four stroke. One of our Kolb List members
experienced an engine out with a 4 stroke because of mismanagement of a
manual main fuel control.
john h
mkIII
titus, alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternitive Kolb Engines |
> That said, I like the 912UL a little better than the Jabiru 2200, mostly
because of the PSRU which gives lower prop noise at cruise rpm. If propped
correctly, the difference in low speed thrust is not an issue unless you fly
in/out of a really short/tight field, like John H does. BUT the Jabiru does
have some advantages over the 912, which I won't bother to list here. Both
are very good engines if installed and operated properly. Likewise, both can
become boat anchor very quickly if you don't follow the proper procedures.
>
> Thom Riddle
Thom R/Gang:
I don't know much about Jabiru engines. Never flew an aircraft powered with
one. I have flown quite a bit with John Williamson when his Kolbra was
Jabiru powered.
Like all direct drive engines I am familiar with, the Jabiru powered Kolbra
was anemic during take off and climb, with about equal cruise speed of my
912ULS powered MKIII. John W and I flew several long cross country flights
together when he still had the Jabiru on the Kolbra. There was no
comparison between take off and climb performance between the two airplanes.
All that changed when he repowered with the 912ULS. We met at Canon City,
Colorado, on the way to Monument Valley, UT. Next morning we took off for
Leadville, CO. John W took off first and I never was able to catch him. He
was about the same breaking ground, but would out climb and out run me from
then on. The 912ULS made a considerable difference in performance. There
was a lot more difference between the two engines than a noisy prop.
I'm not trying to defend the engine I fly nor degrade the engines others
fly. I am interested in learning more about my engine and others. I wish
you would please share with us the advantages you referred to above, of the
Jabiru over the 912.
The New Kolb Aircraft Company tried powering Kolb aircraft with the Jabiru
and the Verner. Neither engine lasted more than part of a season before
they were replaced with the 912ULS. John W went the same route before he
installed the 912ULS. There is a big difference in performance, and so far
there is nothing that will touch a 912 on a MKIII, MKIIIx, Kolbra, and Sling
Shot. Wish I had first hand experience flying with the Jabiru and Verner on
a Kolb, but unfortunately I never had a chance to fly them.
john h
mkIII
titus, alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternitive Kolb Engines |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Lucien,
The distributor wear issue is not a big deal. The rotor and the distributor cap
in the automotive distributor needs to be changed out every so often (few hundred
hours) and cost is low at NAPA or other auto parts store. Mine has 243 hours
on it and the original rotors and caps are in great shape.
The fretting at the flywheel connection was in early engines only and the SB on
that requires the now standard dowel pins to be installed AT OVERHAUL if no problems
are encountered before that. My engine is subject to this SB but I've
not had any problems in that area. I believe the 100 hour inspection list includes
re-torquing these attach bolts and suspect that owners have ignored this
bit and that is the reason for the "problem". Installing dowels helps make it
more murphy-proof.
The high oil consumption is mostly an operating issue due to overfilling the sump....
very much like filling a Lycoming O-320 to eight quarts will end up with
about six quarts in short order because the excess will be vented out. Nobody
who has flown an O-320 for awhile (and pays for his own oil) ever fills the
sump past 6 quarts. Filling the Jabiru too high will result in excess oil loss,
not consumption. Some don't understand the difference. I keep my oil level where
it is supposed to be. I drain a small dribble of ugly stuff from the air/oil
separator after each flight or two. In the first 50 hours I flew the Jab (to
oil change) I added no more than 1 quart to keep it at proper level... slightly
more than the 912 but an insignificant amount by air-cooled engine standards.
Recommended oil is semi-synthetic Aeroshell 15W-50 which is about $5.50/quart
and it takes 2 1/2 quarts to fill the sump to proper level.
While we are at it, there have been reports of hard starting in cold weather. The
Jab has a single Bing 94 carb, similar(but not identical) to the Bing 64 on
the 912. Like the Rotax Bing 64, to start in the cold, the enricher must be full
on and the throttle at idle. Again, ignorance is at the root of this so-called
"problem", both for hard starting 912 engines and hard starting Jab engines
in cold weather.
John H said something about someone with a Jab had hard starting on a very damp
morning and had to dry out the distributor caps (if I remember correctly). I've
never had that problem when my Jab sits out overnight in the rain, as long
as I cover the engine (which I do). The morning after relative humidity has been
as high as 95% and it started right up.
Great engine and getting better as continuous design process goes forward.... but
still wish it had a geared prop to reduce the prop noise.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY
Kolb Slingshot SS-021
Jabiru 2200A #1574
Tennessee Prop 64x31
I believe that banking institutions are more dangerous to our liberties than standing
armies.
- Thomas Jefferson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284159#284159
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternitive Kolb Engines |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
jbhart(at)onlyinternet.ne wrote:
>
> Lucien,
>
> In my experience with two cycle engines, there seems to be plenty of "grunt
> work" left. For all the good things that Rotax and others have done to adapt
> two cycle engines for aircraft, they have not provided the pilot with a means
> for effective engine management. I believe the inability, during flight, to
> adjust air fuel mixture is the largest single cause of premature two cycle
> engine failure.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Winchester, IN
I disagree. Far and away, no in-flight adjustable mixture is more towards the bottom
of the list for engine-out causes rather than the top.
Generally, when the jetting chart is followed for your altitude and temp, mixture
problems are rare, at least those that go to the point of stopping the prop.
True, you do have to compensate for having fixed jetting in your operating practices
(remember you're going to go rich at higher altitudes, no high-speed
descents with the throttle partially open, etc) but fixed jetting by itself I
havn't observed to be a major problem since good 2-stroke practice is easy to
follow.
The major contributors to engine-outs with the 2-strokes include (in my experience
with both my 2-strokes and those of other guys I know who've flown them a
lot):
- overly hard running (you can't run the jeepers out of a 2-stroke like we can
and should our 912's)
- underpowering (leads to the above)
- fuel system maintenance/installation errors
- ignition system installation errors (caused my one/only engine-out with a 2-stroke)
- under or overpropping
- incorrect installation
- other incorrect operating practices for 2-strokes like shock-heating (long descents
followed by immediate full power) and long descents with partially open
throttle, etc.
There was an altitude compensating setup available for the 2-stroke Bings for a
while, but it eventually was discontinued for reasons unknown (probably cost,
it was pretty expensive).
I've heard of some in-flight mixture controls being developed as well, but fro
the little study I did of them there wasn't much in the way of reliable information
about how to actually operate them. Besides, the fixed jetting maintains
the correct CHT/EGT's virtually all the time anyway, so it doesn't sound to me
like a very effective bang/buck option.
My experience with the Rotax 2-strokes has always been bolt-on-and-go-fly. They
give very little trouble as long as the directions are followed and the maint.
is done correctly.
Like I said, the only time the fan stopped turning on a 2-stroke for me was my
447 on my trike. Turned out to be an installation error on my part (mag lead was
bundled in with the ground lead and it shorted in flight, shutting the engine
off).
LS
--------
LS
Titan II SS
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284161#284161
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternitive Kolb Engines |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
I suspect John W had a very early engine and they were indeed anemic, even in faster
airframes like the Zenith 601. I spoke to a guy in Mexico, MO at the Zenith
open-house in 2001 who had a very early Jab 2200 and he was very unhappy with
that engine performance.
Mine is serial #1574 which is one of the later solid lifter models with many improvements
over the very early models. I get 1,100 fpm climb on a standard day
and about 900 on a very hot day, at Vy which is about 60-65mph. AND my prop (fixed
pitch wood) is something of a cruise prop since it only turns about 3170
rpm at full throttle straight and level flight. Max continuous rpm is 3,300.
As I've said before, the continue to improve the product as does Rotax and anyone
else in the engine business who wants to stay in that business.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY
Kolb Slingshot SS-021
Jabiru 2200A #1574
Tennessee Prop 64x31
I believe that banking institutions are more dangerous to our liberties than standing
armies.
- Thomas Jefferson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284162#284162
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternitive Kolb Engines |
| From: | "lucien" <lstavenhagen(at)hotmail.com> |
Thom Riddle wrote:
> Lucien,
>
> The distributor wear issue is not a big deal. The rotor and the distributor cap
in the automotive distributor needs to be changed out every so often (few
hundred hours) and cost is low at NAPA or other auto parts store. Mine has 243
hours on it and the original rotors and caps are in great shape.
>
> The fretting at the flywheel connection was in early engines only and the SB
on that requires the now standard dowel pins to be installed AT OVERHAUL if no
problems are encountered before that. My engine is subject to this SB but I've
not had any problems in that area. I believe the 100 hour inspection list includes
re-torquing these attach bolts and suspect that owners have ignored this
bit and that is the reason for the "problem". Installing dowels helps make it
more murphy-proof.
>
> The high oil consumption is mostly an operating issue due to overfilling the
sump.... very much like filling a Lycoming O-320 to eight quarts will end up with
about six quarts in short order because the excess will be vented out. Nobody
who has flown an O-320 for awhile (and pays for his own oil) ever fills the
sump past 6 quarts. Filling the Jabiru too high will result in excess oil loss,
not consumption. Some don't understand the difference. I keep my oil level
where it is supposed to be. I drain a small dribble of ugly stuff from the air/oil
separator after each flight or two. In the first 50 hours I flew the Jab
(to oil change) I added no more than 1 quart to keep it at proper level... slightly
more than the 912 but an insignificant amount by air-cooled engine standards.
Recommended oil is semi-synthetic Aeroshell 15W-50 which is about $5.50/quart
and it takes 2 1/2 quarts to fill the sump to proper level.
>
> While we are at it, there have been reports of hard starting in cold weather.
The Jab has a single Bing 94 carb, similar(but not identical) to the Bing 64
on the 912. Like the Rotax Bing 64, to start in the cold, the enricher must be
full on and the throttle at idle. Again, ignorance is at the root of this so-called
"problem", both for hard starting 912 engines and hard starting Jab engines
in cold weather.
>
> John H said something about someone with a Jab had hard starting on a very damp
morning and had to dry out the distributor caps (if I remember correctly).
I've never had that problem when my Jab sits out overnight in the rain, as long
as I cover the engine (which I do). The morning after relative humidity has
been as high as 95% and it started right up.
>
> Great engine and getting better as continuous design process goes forward....
but still wish it had a geared prop to reduce the prop noise.
Ok, thanks Thom. The dowel pin mod I've heard of, but hadn't heard any reports
about whether it actually fixed the fretting problem. I also wasn't aware of the
maint. schedule on the distributor (sounds about like what you always had to
do on our old cars so indeed doesn't sound like a big deal as long as you don't
tell the parts dudes at Napa they're going in an a/c engine ;)).
I've looked over some of the SB's issued by Jabiru, which is where I found out
some of these things. but again not being an owner, I'm in the dark on lots of
it.
In my case depending on the plane I eventually decide to build I have the 7000'
MSL altitude issue to deal with too. That'd be the only problem I'd have with
a 2200, the motor I'd most like to go with. The 3300 is too close to the cost
of the 912 to not use the 912 for say a Mark III where it'd be more appropriate
(and I could reuse my 68" Warp Drive which I'm keeping for just such an eventuality
;)).
January 13, 2010 - January 31, 2010
Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-jd