Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-mq
October 27, 2013 - December 19, 2013
Congrats on the solo! -- but as to flying with bent gear? I sure
wouldn't chance it. Even if you TO OK, you still have to land! If the
gear's out of track you can have a wild handful on landing. But I
haven't even seen the extent of the bends.
I assume you plan to keep this lil bird?
Russ
On Oct 27, 2013, at 7:56 PM, Larry Dunphy wrote:
> I just did my solo today in a Kolb Mk III Xtra, and during my
training, I did a few hard landings. My landing gear (s) are bent out
some. I will be replacing them this winter, but want to get flight time
in before the cold weather sets in and I put the plane away. Am I at
risk in take off/ taxi with my gear bow legged????
>
>
> From: Roy Spangler
> Sent: 27 October, 2013 12:48 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Xtra Steering Problems
>
> Brad,
>
> In the for what it's worth department. If the wheels toe out even a
little bit
> you'll have a handful.
>
> roy
>
>
> On Sat, Oct 26, 2013 at 3:43 PM, Brad Nation
wrote:
> I=92m having steering problems with my Xtra. Two Issues:
> I was doing some familiarization taxing. I taxied it down the runway
at about 3000 RPM and it was all over the place. At first I though I was
just over controlling it but I don=92t think that is the case. I tried a
few times with the same result. I the last attempt I ended running off
the side of the runway. I had another experienced Kolb pilot (Dennis
Kirby) taxi it as well. We aborted the taxi test because we were unable
to turn to the right even with full right brake and power. After getting
back to the hanger we had a look at the tail wheel and noticed that the
linkage from the rudder to the tail wheel seemed loose. I shortened the
chains by one link. However, can the chain linkage be too tight?
>
> The tail wheel is somewhat hard to unlock going clockwise (nose is
12:00) and very very difficult, if at all, going counter clock wise. I
have regressed the tailwheel but that doesn=92t seem to help.
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Yellow Bird 1
> (Brad)
> MKIII Xtra
> N952DK
>
>
>
>
>
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jimmy Young" <jdy100(at)comcast.net> |
Kolbers,
I flew up to the Reklaw event in East Texas Friday & ran into Travis Bennett. I
hadn't seen Travis since the Nauga Fly-Around back in November of 2011. It was
my first time Reklaw and it's a great one. I'd guess there were 400 planes there
of all types and most everyone was camping. I sold my Firestar a while back
as I was close to completing my Zenith 750, and it was good to see a Kolb again.
Travis was the first one to fly early Saturday morning. I took this photo
of his Kolbra at his campsite.
Jimmy Y
Houston TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411559#411559
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/100_0245_509.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Dunphy" <skime2(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Xtra Steering Problems |
I do ... the legs are more =93bowed=94 than bent ... I understand this
is common with the Kolb aluminum gears. I taxied and flew today with no
issue, but saw the post from someone who did have issues, and the reply
concerning the toe-out.
From: kinne russ
Sent: 27 October, 2013 8:24 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Xtra Steering Problems
Congrats on the solo! -- but as to flying with bent gear? I sure
wouldn't chance it. Even if you TO OK, you still have to land! If the
gear's out of track you can have a wild handful on landing. But I
haven't even seen the extent of the bends.
I assume you plan to keep this lil bird?
Russ
On Oct 27, 2013, at 7:56 PM, Larry Dunphy wrote:
I just did my solo today in a Kolb Mk III Xtra, and during my
training, I did a few hard landings. My landing gear (s) are bent out
some. I will be replacing them this winter, but want to get flight time
in before the cold weather sets in and I put the plane away. Am I at
risk in take off/ taxi with my gear bow legged????
From: Roy Spangler
Sent: 27 October, 2013 12:48 PM
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Xtra Steering Problems
Brad,
In the for what it's worth department. If the wheels toe out even a
little bit
you'll have a handful.
roy
On Sat, Oct 26, 2013 at 3:43 PM, Brad Nation
wrote:
I=92m having steering problems with my Xtra. Two Issues:
1.. I was doing some familiarization taxing. I taxied it down the
runway at about 3000 RPM and it was all over the place. At first I
though I was just over controlling it but I don=92t think that is the
case. I tried a few times with the same result. I the last attempt I
ended running off the side of the runway. I had another experienced
Kolb pilot (Dennis Kirby) taxi it as well. We aborted the taxi test
because we were unable to turn to the right even with full right brake
and power. After getting back to the hanger we had a look at the tail
wheel and noticed that the linkage from the rudder to the tail wheel
seemed loose. I shortened the chains by one link. However, can the chain
linkage be too tight?
2.. The tail wheel is somewhat hard to unlock going clockwise
(nose is 12:00) and very very difficult, if at all, going counter clock
wise. I have regressed the tailwheel but that doesn=92t seem to help.
Thanks in advance,
Yellow Bird 1
(Brad)
MKIII Xtra
N952DK
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ontribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
I flew up to the Reklaw event in East Texas Friday & ran into Travis
Bennett.
Jimmy Y
Houston TX
Great photo, Jimmy:
Makes me antsy. Haven't done any serious flying and camping in a while.
I had to take the lopping shears and weed eater to the airstrip today to get
my airplane out of the hanger. Haven't flown Miss P'fer in about 5 months.
The trees and bushes had grown up under the nose of the MKIII.
After 5 months my solar maintainer had kept the battery up to snuff. She
cranked right up and had no fuel problems after the long storage. I might
add, I had 10 gals of 100LL in the tank. Flew over to Wetumpka Airport and
put 10 more gals on top of that.
After a bad experience with 93 oct alcohol laced fuel, 3 years ago when I
broke my leg and did not fly the airplane for 6 months, I always try to
store it with 100LL only in the tank. It works.
Despite the dirt, barn dust, bug crap, bird crap, and carpenter bee
droppings, my MKIII flew like a champ. First take off she turned 5400 and
was singing her song.
There were times during my 4 month, one week trip West this year, I wished I
had her with me. I'm hoping I will feel up to flying back out West next
year to celebrate my 75th year. We will have to see if I am up to it, and
still want to do it. It is not an easy flight from here to the Rock House
near Burns Junction, Oregon. Always high winds and turbulence in the
vicinity of the Rockies. Usually, the wind is blowing the wrong way. 40
mph ground speed doesn't get it.
Much easier flying in to the Fish Camp in the Owyhee River Canyon than doing
the 56 mile one way trip on an ATV. As long as I have room for the big cast
iron frying pan and my little pack stove to fry the small mouth bass and
blue cat fish. Might have to try to get back out there a little earlier
than last year. Last of June is really hot in the high desert of SE Oregon.
Take care,
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Xtra Steering Problems |
| From: | "racerjerry" <gki(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
If flying off a grass field, there will be no problem. If flying off pavement,
there COULD be a problem, but generally, Kolb taildraggers are not overly sensitive
to toe error.
--------
Jerry King
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411575#411575
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Dunphy" <skime2(at)roadrunner.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Xtra Steering Problems |
THANK YOU for your input... I will be flying off grass, but being a new 61
year old pilot ... I'm a bit cautious. The learning curve is a LONG slope
when you get older!!
-----Original Message-----
From: racerjerry
Sent: 28 October, 2013 8:29 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Xtra Steering Problems
If flying off a grass field, there will be no problem. If flying off
pavement, there COULD be a problem, but generally, Kolb taildraggers are not
overly sensitive to toe error.
--------
Jerry King
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411575#411575
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Reklaw Fly-In |
| From: | "tkben002" <tkben002(at)bellsouth.net> |
This was my first time at Reklaw and it was a blast, saw all types of aircraft
and surprised I was the only Kolb in attendance.
Here is a link to my youtube video of my early morning Saturday flight.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClK6NCzMWHw
Travis Bennett
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411594#411594
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chris davis <capedavis(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Xtra Steering Problems |
=C2-=0AI would suggest you remove the gear and straighten them with a hyd
raulic press ! Quick and easy repair till you get new ones after you perfec
t your landings ,not that anyone ever feels perfect1=C2- CHRIS=0A=0AChris
Davis=0AKXP 503 492 hrs=0AGlider Pilot=0ADisabled from crash building Fire
fly=0A=0A=0A>________________________________=0A> From: Larry Dunphy <skime
2(at)roadrunner.com>=0A>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com =0A>Sent: Sunday, October
27, 2013 7:56 PM=0A>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Xtra Steering Problems=0A> =0A
>=0A>=0A>I just did my solo today in a Kolb Mk III Xtra, and during my trai
ning, I =0Adid a few hard landings. My landing gear (s) are bent out some.
I will be =0Areplacing them this winter, but want to get flight time in bef
ore the cold =0Aweather sets in and I put the plane away.=C2- Am I at ris
k in take off/ taxi =0Awith my gear bow legged????=C2- =0A>=0A>=0A>From:
Roy Spangler =0A>Sent: 27 October, 2013 12:48 PM =0A>To: kolb-list@matron
ics.com =0A>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Xtra Steering Problems =0A> Brad,=0A>
=0A>In the for what it's worth department. If the wheels toe =0Aout even a
little bit=0A>you'll have a handful.=0A>=0A>roy=0A> =0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>On Sat,
Oct 26, 2013 at 3:43 PM, Brad Nation wrote:=0A>=0A
>I=99m having steering problems with my Xtra. Two Issues: =0A>>1.
I was doing some familiarization taxing. I taxied it down the runway at ab
out 3000 RPM and it was all over the place. At first I though I was just o
ver controlling it but I don=99t think that is the case. I tried a fe
w times with the same result. I the last attempt I ended running off the s
ide of the runway.=C2- I had another experienced Kolb=C2- pilot (Denni
s Kirby) taxi it as well.=C2- We aborted the taxi test because we were u
nable to turn to the right even with full right brake and power. After get
ting back to the hanger we had a look at the tail wheel and noticed that t
he linkage from the rudder to the tail wheel seemed loose. I shortened the
chains by one link. However, can the chain linkage be too tight?=0A>>=0A>
>=0A>>2. The tail wheel is somewhat hard to unlock going clockwise (nose
is 12:00) and very very difficult, if at all,=C2- going counter clock w
ise. I have regressed the tailwheel=C2- but that doesn=99t seem to
help. =0A>>=0A>>=0A>>Thanks in advance, =0A>>=0A>>Yellow Bird 1 =0A>>(Bra
d) =0A>>MKIII Xtra =0A>>N952DK =0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>get="_blank">http
://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List=0Atp://forums.matronics.com=0A_bla
nk">http://www.matronics.com/contribution =0A>=0A>href="http://www.matro
nics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
=0Ahref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com=0Ahref
="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c =0A>
=========== =0A>=0A>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b young" <byoungplumbing(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | best way i have found to set alignment for tracking |
the best way I have found to check the wheel alignment is to place a
straight edge behind the mains at axel height.
then use a carpenter square and align it against the straight edge and
against the edge of the tire,,,,
measure from the square to the rim ( not the tire, because of
differences in the rubber) at the front and rear of the rim.
repeat for other wheel.
if the measurement from the square to front of the rim is the same as
the measurement from the square to the back of the rim, the wheel is
straight, if the front measurement is greater than the rear the wheel
has toe in. and if the front is less than the rear, the wheel has toe
out.
for the best tracking on solid surface runway, my mkiii with the solid
tapered steel gear required about 0.6 deg toe in. on each side.
if your gear is more or less stiff the toe in requirements for your
plane will be different.
I did the math,,, and although it is not 100 % exact,,, it is close
enough,,,, if the points on the rim front to back are 5.725 inches
apart where you measure to the square, the degree of toe in or toe
out equals 10 times the different in front and rear measurements as
measured in thousandths of an inch. example,,, if the difference
between the front and rear measurements is 0.062 thousandths of an
inch,,, the toe in or out is 0.62 deg
if you want to do your own math,,,, the deg of toe in equals the
tangent of the opposite side divided by the adjacent side.
the tangent of 0.62
= 0.010821
opposite side divided by the adjacent 0.062/5.725 = 0.010829
or you can do an inverse tangent function Tan =931 power (
0.062/5.725)= 0.6204 or very near 0.062 *10 = 0.62
the way the inverse tangent function looks may vary pending on your
calculator.
one last thing,,,, when measuring it is best to have the wheel placed on
a grease plate, which is made by putting a few pumps of grease
between 2 smooth aluminum plates, or similar materials..
this is probably worth archiving.
boyd young
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Reklaw Fly-In |
Hi Travis,
nice pictures but there is a problem of conflicting requirements here.
With the camera attached to your head, and your head constantly moving, as
it should be if you are keeping a proper watch for other a/c the picture is
constantly on the move.
Secondly. The main thing anyone with a camera is taught. Don`t zoom in and
out and don`t constantly pan. If you must pan, do it slowly.
Two irreconcilable requirements. Perhaps fixing the camera to an attachment
on your shoulder might be a part answer.
Looked a nice fly in.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Xtra Steering Problems |
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020(at)gmail.com> |
Bending them back is easy and proper to do, just make sure that you put a
2x4 or something between the gear and the press. No scratches allowed.
Larry
On Mon, Oct 28, 2013 at 9:42 AM, chris davis wrote:
>
> I would suggest you remove the gear and straighten them with a hydraulic
> press ! Quick and easy repair till you get new ones after you perfect you
r
> landings ,not that anyone ever feels perfect1 CHRIS
>
> Chris Davis
> KXP 503 492 hrs
> Glider Pilot
> Disabled from crash building Firefly
>
> *From:* Larry Dunphy
> *To:* kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Sunday, October 27, 2013 7:56 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Kolb-List: Xtra Steering Problems
>
> I just did my solo today in a Kolb Mk III Xtra, and during my training,
> I did a few hard landings. My landing gear (s) are bent out some. I will
be
> replacing them this winter, but want to get flight time in before the col
d
> weather sets in and I put the plane away. Am I at risk in take off/ taxi
> with my gear bow legged????
>
>
> *From:* Roy Spangler
> *Sent:* 27 October, 2013 12:48 PM
> *To:* kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: Kolb-List: Xtra Steering Problems
>
> Brad,
>
> In the for what it's worth department. If the wheels toe out even a littl
e
> bit
> you'll have a handful.
>
> roy
>
>
> On Sat, Oct 26, 2013 at 3:43 PM, Brad Nation wrote
:
>
> I=92m having steering problems with my Xtra. Two Issues:
>
> 1. I was doing some familiarization taxing. I taxied it down the
> runway at about 3000 RPM and it was all over the place. At first I tho
ugh I
> was just over controlling it but I don=92t think that is the case. I t
ried a
> few times with the same result. I the last attempt I ended running off
the
> side of the runway. I had another experienced Kolb pilot (Dennis Kir
by)
> taxi it as well. We aborted the taxi test because we were unable to t
urn
> to the right even with full right brake and power. After getting back
to
> the hanger we had a look at the tail wheel and noticed that the linkag
e
> from the rudder to the tail wheel seemed loose. I shortened the chains
by
> one link. However, can the chain linkage be too tight?
>
> 2. The tail wheel is somewhat hard to unlock going clockwise (nose is
> 12:00) and very very difficult, if at all, going counter clock wise.
I
> have regressed the tailwheel but that doesn=92t seem to help.
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Yellow Bird 1
> (Brad)
> MKIII Xtra
> N952DK
>
>
> *
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> *
>
>
> *
>
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s.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
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ms.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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*
>
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llow">http:=====================
==
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: best way i have found to set alignment for tracking |
| From: | Roy Spangler <roy.spangler(at)kirtland.edu> |
Boyd,
Best explanation of alignment on an ac that I've seen. Should be
a big help to a lot of folks.
thanks
roy
On Mon, Oct 28, 2013 at 1:18 PM, b young wrote:
> the best way I have found to check the wheel alignment is to place a
> straight edge behind the mains at axel height.
> then use a carpenter square and align it against the straight edge and
> against the edge of the tire,,,,
> measure from the square to the rim ( not the tire, because of differences
> in the rubber) at the front and rear of the rim.
> repeat for other wheel.
>
> if the measurement from the square to front of the rim is the same as the
> measurement from the square to the back of the rim, the wheel is
> straight, if the front measurement is greater than the rear the wheel
> has toe in. and if the front is less than the rear, the wheel has toe
> out.
>
> for the best tracking on solid surface runway, my mkiii with the solid
> tapered steel gear required about 0.6 deg toe in. on each side.
if
> your gear is more or less stiff the toe in requirements for your plane
> will be different.
>
> I did the math,,, and although it is not 100 % exact,,, it is close
> enough,,,, if the points on the rim front to back are 5.725 inches apar
t
> where you measure to the square, the degree of toe in or toe out
> equals 10 times the different in front and rear measurements as measure
d
> in thousandths of an inch. example,,, if the difference between the
> front and rear measurements is 0.062 thousandths of an inch,,, the toe
> in or out is 0.62 deg
>
> if you want to do your own math,,,, the deg of toe in equals the tangen
t
> of the opposite side divided by the adjacent side.
>
> the tangent of 0.62
> = 0.010821
> opposite side divided by the adjacent 0.062/5.725 = 0.010829
>
> or you can do an inverse tangent function Tan '1 power (
> 0.062/5.725)= 0.6204 or very near 0.062 *10 = 0.62
>
> the way the inverse tangent function looks may vary pending on your
> calculator.
>
> one last thing,,,, when measuring it is best to have the wheel placed on
a
> grease plate, which is made by putting a few pumps of grease between 2
> smooth aluminum plates, or similar materials..
>
> this is probably worth archiving.
>
> boyd young
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Xtra Steering Problems |
| From: | "Rex Rodebush" <jrrodebush(at)gmail.com> |
Call Travis and about the steel legs. You won't have to worry about bending them.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411707#411707
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3 |
| From: | "Kirby, Dennis Civ USAF AFMC AFNWC/ENS" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
<< Dennis.Kirby wrote: I am looking for suggestions and recommendations
for installing a new, larger-capacity fuel tank in my Mark-3 Classic. >>
Kolb Friends -
Thanks to all who responded to my Fuel Tank question!
I now have a few options to investigate. Travis at Kolb tells me they
still have the patterns to fabricate a one-piece aluminum tank (approx.
15 gal) for my Mark-III Classic, but they haven't built one since the
early-2000s. (Seems like that could still be a popular option, for new
kit buyers.) Their metal-fab wizard Dennis Jackson could build it.
Would require cutting a few steel tubes to get it in - not that big a
problem. Am considering that option.
Thanks Boyd, for sending pictures and detailed descriptions of your
Kolb-factory 16-gal tank, from the mid-1990s!
Rev Pike - your homemade above-the-cabin fiberglass tank fits nicely.
Sadly, I have no fiberglass skills or experience to build such a beauty.
So I'll hafta pass on that possibility, for my Kolb.
John H - I've seen your custom 25-gal tank before in Miss P'fer (at
Monument Valley). Definitely gives you enough gas - especially for
your kind of flying. But it's more than I think I want for my Mark-3
... lookin' more for 16 to 18 gallons capacity. But your tip for doing
a good job of slosh-coating the inside is well-taken!
Will let you all know how it turns out, when I make the choice!
Dennis K.
Mark-III / 912ul / stock plastic fuel jugs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3 |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Hey Dennis, does the one from Travis install without cutting tubes? If so, m
aybe if I ordered one too, we could defray their costs by doubling the order
.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Oct 31, 2013, at 10:58 AM, "Kirby, Dennis Civ USAF AFMC AFNWC/ENS" wrote:
>
> << Dennis.Kirby wrote: I am looking for suggestions and recommendations f
or installing a new, larger-capacity fuel tank in my Mark-3 Classic. >>
>
>
> Kolb Friends =93
>
> Thanks to all who responded to my Fuel Tank question!
>
> I now have a few options to investigate. Travis at Kolb tells me they sti
ll have the patterns to fabricate a one-piece aluminum tank (approx. 15 gal)
for my Mark-III Classic, but they haven=99t built one since the early
-2000s. (Seems like that could still be a popular option, for new kit buyer
s.) Their metal-fab wizard Dennis Jackson could build it. Would require cu
tting a few steel tubes to get it in =93 not that big a problem. Am c
onsidering that option.
>
> Thanks Boyd, for sending pictures and detailed descriptions of your Kolb-f
actory 16-gal tank, from the mid-1990s!
>
> Rev Pike =93 your homemade above-the-cabin fiberglass tank fits nice
ly. Sadly, I have no fiberglass skills or experience to build such a beauty
. So I=99ll hafta pass on that possibility, for my Kolb.
>
> John H =93 I=99ve seen your custom 25-gal tank before in Miss P
=99fer (at Monument Valley). Definitely gives you enough gas =93
especially for your kind of flying. But it=99s more than I think I w
ant for my Mark-3 lookin=99 more for 16 to 18 gallons capaci
ty. But your tip for doing a good job of slosh-coating the inside is well-t
aken!
>
> Will let you all know how it turns out, when I make the choice!
>
> Dennis K.
> Mark-III / 912ul / stock plastic fuel jugs
>
>
>
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>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3 |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Sorry, just reread your post and see there is cutting involved. I'll have to
find out exactly what needs cut before I would commit to that.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Oct 31, 2013, at 3:32 PM, Dennis Rowe wrote:
>
> Hey Dennis, does the one from Travis install without cutting tubes? If so,
maybe if I ordered one too, we could defray their costs by doubling the ord
er.
>
> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>
>
>
>> On Oct 31, 2013, at 10:58 AM, "Kirby, Dennis Civ USAF AFMC AFNWC/ENS" wrote:
>>
>> << Dennis.Kirby wrote: I am looking for suggestions and recommendations f
or installing a new, larger-capacity fuel tank in my Mark-3 Classic. >>
>>
>>
>> Kolb Friends =93
>>
>> Thanks to all who responded to my Fuel Tank question!
>>
>> I now have a few options to investigate. Travis at Kolb tells me they st
ill have the patterns to fabricate a one-piece aluminum tank (approx. 15 gal
) for my Mark-III Classic, but they haven=99t built one since the earl
y-2000s. (Seems like that could still be a popular option, for new kit buye
rs.) Their metal-fab wizard Dennis Jackson could build it. Would require c
utting a few steel tubes to get it in =93 not that big a problem. Am c
onsidering that option.
>>
>> Thanks Boyd, for sending pictures and detailed descriptions of your Kolb-
factory 16-gal tank, from the mid-1990s!
>>
>> Rev Pike =93 your homemade above-the-cabin fiberglass tank fits nic
ely. Sadly, I have no fiberglass skills or experience to build such a beaut
y. So I=99ll hafta pass on that possibility, for my Kolb.
>>
>> John H =93 I=99ve seen your custom 25-gal tank before in Miss
P=99fer (at Monument Valley). Definitely gives you enough gas
=93 especially for your kind of flying. But it=99s more than I think I
want for my Mark-3 lookin=99 more for 16 to 18 gallons capa
city. But your tip for doing a good job of slosh-coating the inside is well
-taken!
>>
>> Will let you all know how it turns out, when I make the choice!
>>
>> Dennis K.
>> Mark-III / 912ul / stock plastic fuel jugs
>>
>>
>>
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> //forums.matronics.com
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>>
>
>
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3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3 |
| From: | Windstream <awcbsone(at)windstream.net> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3 |
| From: | "pipercolt" <bob.pipercolt(at)yahoo.com> |
Hey Dennis
I would also be interested in the larger tank from Kolb. Keep me informed if you
don't mind.
Thanks
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411810#411810
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | PLEASE READ - Matronics Email List Fund Raiser During November! |
Dear Listers,
Each November I hold a PBS-like fund raiser to support the continued operation
and upgrade of the Email List and Fourm Services at Matronics. It's solely through
the Contributions of List members (you) that these Matronics Lists are possible.
You have probably noticed that there are no banner ads or pop-up windows on any of the Matronics Lists or related web sites such as the Forums site http://forums.matronics.com , Wiki site http://wiki.matronics.com , or other related pages such as the List Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search , List Browse http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse , etc. This is because I believe in a List experience that is completely about the sport we all enjoy - namely Airplanes and not about annoying advertisements.
During the month of November I will be sending out List messages every couple of
days reminding everyone that the Fund Raiser is underway. I ask for your patience
and understanding during the Fund Raiser and throughout these regular messages.
The Fund Raiser is only financial support mechanism I have to pay all
of the bills associated with running these lists. YOUR personal Contribution
counts!
This year we have a really HUGE and TERRIFIC line up of free gifts to go along
with the various Contribution levels. In fact, there are over 30 different gifts
to choose from - more than we've ever had before! There's something for everyone,
to be sure. Most all of these gifts have been provided by some of the
vary members and vendors that you'll find on the Matronics Lists and they have
been either donated or provided at substantially discounted rates.
This year, these generous members include:
Andy Gold of the Builder's Bookstore http://www.buildersbooks.com
Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric Connection http://www.aeroelectric.com
Corbin Glowacki of My Pilot Store http://www.mypilotstore.com
George Race of Race Consulting http://www.mrrace.com/
Jon Croke of HomebuiltHELP http://www.homebuilthelp.com
These are very generous guys and I encourage you to visit their respective web
sites. Each one offers a unique and excellent aviation-related product line.
I would like publicly to thank Andy, Bob, Corbin, George, and Jon their generous
support of the Lists again this year!!
Please make your List Contribution using any one of three secure methods including
using a credit card, PayPal, or by personal check. All three methods afford
you the opportunity to select one of this year's free gifts with a qualifying
Contribution amount!!
To make your Contribution, please visit the secure web site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
I would like to thank everyone in advance for their generous financial AND moral
support over the years!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
RV-4/RV-6/RV-8 Builder/Rebuilder/Pilot
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3 |
| From: | JC Gilpin <j.gilpin(at)bigpond.com> |
Gday Dennis,
I found a tank from Moeller that fit just perfectly behind the seat in a
FireStar ll.
They have a really wide range of sizes and shapes. They're made to be
permanent below-deck fuel tanks for boats, so are very high quality with
very good fittings.
I got mine from Amazon, free shipping.
http://www.moellermarine.com/oem/fuel_tanks/fuel-tanks/
JG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chris davis <capedavis(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3 |
JG Those tanks look good how much did the one you bought cost? I could not
find any prices. thank you Chris=0A=0A=0AChris Davis=0AKXP 503 492 hrs=0AGl
ider Pilot=0ADisabled from crash building Firefly=0A=0A=0A>________________
________________=0A> From: JC Gilpin <j.gilpin(at)bigpond.com>=0A>To: "kolb-li
st(at)matronics.com" =0A>Sent: Friday, November 1, 2
013 8:08 AM=0A>Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Ma
rk-3=0A> =0A>=0A>=0A>Gday Dennis,=0A>=0A>=0A>I found a tank from Moeller t
hat fit just perfectly behind the seat in a FireStar ll.=0A>They have a rea
lly wide range of sizes and shapes. -They're made to be permanent below-d
eck fuel tanks for boats, so are very high quality with very good fittings.
- =0A>I got mine from Amazon, free shipping.=0A>=0A>http://www.moellerma
==================== =0A>=0A>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3 |
| From: | "Kirby, Dennis Civ USAF AFMC AFNWC/ENS" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
rowedenny(at)windstream.net wrote:
<< . just reread your post and see there is cutting involved. I'll have to
find out exactly what needs cut before I would commit to that. Dennis
"Skid" Rowe >>
bob.pipercolt(at)yahoo.com wrote:
<< would also be interested in the larger tank from Kolb. Keep me informed
if you don't mind. Thanks Bob >>
Denny, and Bob -
Travis told me that the Mark-III Xtra one-piece fuel tank is an option on
that model, but is not retrofittable to the "Classic." Cages are different.
The patterns they still have at Kolb are for a tank they used to offer as an
option for the original M3 in the days before the Xtra was conceived. It
was a $450 option in the late-1990s. I believe they built it into the
welded cage, and shipped it to you that way.
For this retrofit, on a standard M3 cage, it appears you'll have to cut the
three 3/8" tubes that are just behind the seats to get this tank in. Boyd
(who has one of these factory tanks in his 1990s era Mark-III) says his is
about 16 gallons. The tank would sit on the same framework intended for
the plastic jugs to sin on, and would have a "tunnel" hump in the center, as
the tank straddles the aileron torque tube.
Last week, Travis said they could fab one up for me for about $950, plus
shipping. They would make it with all the proper orifice fittings (fuel
fill, vent, outlet, etc.), an internal anti-slosh baffle, and with
aluminum-angle mounting brackets. If enough Kolb folks want these, maybe
they could fabricate a batch of tanks, and be able to sell them a little
cheaper.
Dennis K.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3 |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Thanks John,
Will be crawling all through my bird with a tape measure soon to see which o
ne of these I could shoehorn in there.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Nov 1, 2013, at 8:08 AM, JC Gilpin wrote:
>
> Gday Dennis,
>
> I found a tank from Moeller that fit just perfectly behind the seat in a Fi
reStar ll.
> They have a really wide range of sizes and shapes. They're made to be per
manent below-deck fuel tanks for boats, so are very high quality with very g
ood fittings.
> I got mine from Amazon, free shipping.
> http://www.moellermarine.com/oem/fuel_tanks/fuel-tanks/
>
> JG
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3 |
| From: | JC Gilpin <j.gilpin(at)bigpond.com> |
The 14 gal one that I got cost about $159.00, which I thought was really
good considering the quality. Then found a filler neck with secure
screw-in cap for another $20. It was meant to be a thro-deck fitting but
just cut off the big poly flange that was meant to seal at the deck. The
outlet connection is on top of the tank so can't leak fuel, an internal
pipe feeds from the bottom. There's also a fitting on the top for a
breather. Also built-in is a fuel level sender, so you only need to buy a
gauge to to have a fuel gauge on panel.
Lots better than the polyethylene jugs with rubber outlets that can be
ripped out by hand......
JG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3 |
The 14 gal one that I got cost about $159.00>>
What sort of weight change is there between the metal and the plastic.?
Any C of G problems?
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GARY JINDRA <gajindra(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3 |
If you look up West Marine they carry the line of Moeller fuel tanks with p
ricing=0A=0AGary Jindra=0A =0A=0A________________________________=0A From:
chris davis =0ATo: "kolb-list(at)matronics.com" =0ASent: Friday, November 1, 2013 10:49 AM=0ASubject: Re:
Kolb-List: Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3=0A =0A=0A=0AJG Tho
se tanks look good how much did the one you bought cost? I could not find a
ny prices. thank you Chris=0A=0AChris Davis=0AKXP 503 492 hrs=0AGlider Pilo
t=0ADisabled from crash building Firefly=0A=0A=0A=0A>______________________
__________=0A> From: JC Gilpin <j.gilpin(at)bigpond.com>=0A>To: "kolb-list@mat
ronics.com" =0A>Sent: Friday, November 1, 2013 8:
08 AM=0A>Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3
=0A> =0A>=0A>=0A>Gday Dennis,=0A>=0A>=0A>I found a tank from Moeller that
fit just perfectly behind the seat in a FireStar ll.=0A>They have a really
wide range of sizes and shapes. -They're made to be permanent below-deck
fuel tanks for boats, so are very high quality with very good fittings. -
=0A>I got mine from Amazon, free shipping.=0A>=0A>http://www.moellermarine
.com/oem/fuel_tanks/fuel-tanks/=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>JG =0A>http://wwtp://www.bu
ildersbooks.com/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.mebuilthelp
.com/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.homebuilthe.com/" targ
et="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.mypilotstore.com/onics.com/contri
bution" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.matro.com/Navigator?K
olb-List" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.matttp://forums.mat
ronics.com/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://foru=====
=======================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chris davis <capedavis(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3 |
That sounds like a great tank and a good price the fact that they build boa
t tanks says a lot to me as I was a commercial fisherman for 31years and kn
ow how much trouble a rough sea can cause in a fuel tank. thanks Chris=0A
=0A=0AChris Davis=0AKXP 503 492 hrs=0AGlider Pilot=0ADisabled from crash bu
ilding Firefly=0A=0A=0A>________________________________=0A> From: JC Gilpi
n =0A>To: "kolb-list(at)matronics.com" =0A>Sent: Saturday, November 2, 2013 4:42 AM=0A>Subject: Kolb-List
: Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3=0A> =0A>=0A>=0A>The 14 gal
one that I got cost about $159.00, which I thought was really good consider
ing the quality. -Then found a filler neck with secure screw-in cap for a
nother $20. -It was meant to be a thro-deck fitting but just cut off the
big poly flange that was meant to seal at the deck. -The outlet connectio
n is on top of the tank so can't leak fuel, an internal pipe feeds from the
bottom. -There's also a fitting on the top for a breather. -Also built
-in is a fuel level sender, so you only need to buy a gauge to to have a fu
el gauge on panel.-=0A>=0A>=0A>Lots better than the polyethylene jugs wit
== =0A>=0A>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3 |
| From: | daniel myers <h20maule(at)hotmail.com> |
I have an 18 gallon plastic tank from a Searey if anyone is interested in th
at. I can send photos
Daniel Myers
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 2, 2013, at 10:23 AM, "chris davis" wrote:
>
> That sounds like a great tank and a good price the fact that they build bo
at tanks says a lot to me as I was a commercial fisherman for 31years and kn
ow how much trouble a rough sea can cause in a fuel tank. thanks Chris
>
> Chris Davis
> KXP 503 492 hrs
> Glider Pilot
> Disabled from crash building Firefly
>
> From: JC Gilpin <j.gilpin(at)bigpond.com>
> To: "kolb-list(at)matronics.com"
> Sent: Saturday, November 2, 2013 4:42 AM
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3
>
> The 14 gal one that I got cost about $159.00, which I thought was really g
ood considering the quality. Then found a filler neck with secure screw-in c
ap for another $20. It was meant to be a thro-deck fitting but just cut off
the big poly flange that was meant to seal at the deck. The outlet connect
ion is on top of the tank so can't leak fuel, an internal pipe feeds from th
e bottom. There's also a fitting on the top for a breather. Also built-in i
s a fuel level sender, so you only need to buy a gauge to to have a fuel gau
ge on panel.
>
> Lots better than the polyethylene jugs with rubber outlets that can be rip
ped out by hand......
>
> JG
> http://w= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List<====
=======
>
>
>
>
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D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3 |
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
I bought a Moeller 12 gallon for my gyroplane... I was very impressed...
it's quite solid. I got mine from Bass Pro Shop, on-line.
-- Robert
On Sat, Nov 2, 2013 at 9:20 AM, chris davis wrote:
> That sounds like a great tank and a good price the fact that they build
> boat tanks says a lot to me as I was a commercial fisherman for 31years and
> know how much trouble a rough sea can cause in a fuel tank. thanks Chris
>
> Chris Davis
> KXP 503 492 hrs
> Glider Pilot
> Disabled from crash building Firefly
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3 |
| From: | Frank Goodnight <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
Robert,
what gyro do you have? I'm thinking about one.
Frank Goodnight
Sent from my iPad
> On Nov 2, 2013, at 9:47 AM, Robert Laird wrote:
>
> I bought a Moeller 12 gallon for my gyroplane... I was very impressed... i
t's quite solid. I got mine from Bass Pro Shop, on-line.
>
> -- Robert
>
>
>
>> On Sat, Nov 2, 2013 at 9:20 AM, chris davis wrote:
>> That sounds like a great tank and a good price the fact that they build b
oat tanks says a lot to me as I was a commercial fisherman for 31years and k
now how much trouble a rough sea can cause in a fuel tank. thanks Chris
>>
>> Chris Davis
>> KXP 503 492 hrs
>> Glider Pilot
>> Disabled from crash building Firefly
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3 |
| From: | JC Gilpin <j.gilpin(at)bigpond.com> |
* What sort of weight change is there between the metal and the plastic.?
Any C of G problems?Don't know about the wright of the metal tank, but I
don't think there's be a significant difference in CofG, since the tank is
near the CofG.In my case I really needed a change, cause the Cof G of my
aircraft was way aft when I bought it. Needed a lot of forward stick to
keep it level. I weigh only 170lbs and the previous owner was maybe 100 lbs
heavier, so it was way out of balance with me. The original two 5 gal tanks
were in the regular place, behind the center of lift. I worked out that
this new tank, in place of the pax seat in the FSll, right behind the pilot
seat, worked out just right. Now it flies hands-off just perfectly.JG*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3 |
Hi JG,
I forgot that you do not have a limiting weight to define the machine as
an ultralight as we do in the UK
But I would suggest that you do an accurate `weight and balance`
calculation after you have the tank fitted. "Not much change because its
near the C of G is not really good enough."
If she stands on her tail and you can`t get the nose down you may wish
you had done so.
If you are a real lightweight it may be worth carrying some lead. I
fixed some in the nose of my Xtra (Make sure it IS fixed.) I cut sheet
lead into approx 4"X4" squares until I had the weight I required.
Drilled a couple of holes through the pile of sheets and fixed then in
the nose as far forward as I could easily work through the fibreglass. I
put a piece of ply between the lead and the nose cone to spread the load
and used big washers on the outside for the same reason.
When I was gliding and the gliders were being used by club members of
different weights the women, who tended to be the light weights had
their own cushions with a piece of lead inside. It worked but becaus e
the pilot tended to be near the C of G the weight required was sometimes
large. Better to have a little weight well forward.
Hope this is useful.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | How to remove tail wheel? |
| From: | "Arizona Flyer" <heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com> |
On my Firestar II the pizza cutter tail wheel is worn. I bought a new one from
Travis at Kolb. I tried to take the old wheel off but it won't budge. It seems
like the wheel collar is press fit onto the shaft? I could remove the snap ring
and just install the new wheel, but as long as I bought the wheel fixed onto
new bearings I'd like to use the new bearings also. I've banged on the wheel
collar trying to get if off the shaft but afraid of doing damage. Is it a press
fit onto the shaft? I bought a snap ring pliers to just replace the rubber
wheel but having a hard time getting those snap rings to come out of the old &
new wheels. So often a seemingly simple job turns into an ordeal :x
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411999#411999
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | William Long <blong6826(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How to remove tail wheel? |
Should just slid off. Use some penetrating oil.=0A=0A=0A___________________
_____________=0A From: Arizona Flyer <heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com>=0ATo: kolb-l
ist(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Sunday, November 3, 2013 1:50 PM=0ASubject: Kolb
"Arizona Flyer" =0A=0AOn my Firestar II the pizza
cutter tail wheel is worn. I bought a new one from Travis at Kolb. I tried
to take the old wheel off but it won't budge. It seems like the wheel colla
r is press fit onto the shaft? I could remove the snap ring and just instal
l the new wheel, but as long as I bought the wheel fixed onto new bearings
I'd like to use the new bearings also. I've banged on the wheel collar tryi
ng to get if off the shaft but afraid of doing damage. Is it a press fit on
to the shaft? I bought a snap ring pliers to just replace the rubber wheel
but having a hard time getting those snap rings to come out of the old & ne
w wheels. So often a seemingly simple job turns into an ordeal :x=0A=0A----
----=0A"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe t
hrough life just to arrive safely at death"=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this to
pic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411999#
=================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | How to remove tail wheel? |
Tail wheel bushing will rust to the 4130 chromoly axle.
Beating on it could deform the chromoly tube and make it more difficult to
separate
It will probably take a press.
You might try heat.
Good penetrating oil like Kroil:
http://www.kanolabs.com/
Kroil beats all the others I have tried.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How to remove tail wheel? |
| From: | Gary Aman <zeprep251(at)aol.com> |
The tail wheel looks like it's pressed onto a short tube that slides into t
he larger pivot assy. tube.You had to drill a hole through both and put a c
otter pin in it to keep them together.I'm sure they rust together eventuall
y.Look for that pin,I think it's on the pilots side of the assy,and you can
probably see a tube in a tube from that side.
G.Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: William Long <blong6826(at)sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Sun, Nov 3, 2013 4:56 pm
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: How to remove tail wheel?
Should just slid off. Use some penetrating oil.
From: Arizona Flyer <heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com>
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, November 3, 2013 1:50 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: How to remove tail wheel?
On my Firestar II the pizza cutter tail wheel is worn. I bought a new one f
rom Travis at Kolb. I tried to take the old wheel off but it won't budge. I
t seems like the wheel collar is press fit onto the shaft? I could remove t
he snap ring and just install the new wheel, but as long as I bought the wh
eel fixed onto new bearings I'd like to use the new bearings also. I've ban
ged on the wheel collar trying to get if off the shaft but afraid of doing
damage. Is it a press fit onto the shaft? I bought a snap ring pliers to ju
st replace the rubber wheel but having a hard time getting those snap rings
to come out of the old & new wheels. So often a seemingly simple job turns
into an ordeal :x
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through
life just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.phroElectric www.aget="_blank" href
="http://www.buildersbooks.com/">www.buildersbooks.comnbsp; * My Pilot
Store www.mrrace.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb Gayheart <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to remove tail wheel? |
Take a saws all (reciprocating saw) and cut through the old wheel,
being careful not to nip the axle too much...Herb
At 08:17 PM 11/3/2013, you wrote:
>The tail wheel looks like it's pressed onto a short tube that slides
>into the larger pivot assy. tube.You had to drill a hole through
>both and put a cotter pin in it to keep them together.I'm sure they
>rust together eventually.Look for that pin,I think it's on the
>pilots side of the assy,and you can probably see a tube in a tube
>from that side.
>G.Aman
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: William Long <blong6826(at)sbcglobal.net>
>To: kolb-list
>Sent: Sun, Nov 3, 2013 4:56 pm
>Subject: Re: Kolb-List: How to remove tail wheel?
>
>Should just slid off. Use some penetrating oil.
>
>
>From: Arizona Flyer <<mailto:heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com>heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com>
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Sent: Sunday, November 3, 2013 1:50 PM
>Subject: Kolb-List: How to remove tail wheel?
>
><heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com>
>
>On my Firestar II the pizza cutter tail wheel is worn. I bought a
>new one from Travis at Kolb. I tried to take the old wheel off but
>it won't budge. It seems like the wheel collar is press fit onto the
>shaft? I could remove the snap ring and just install the new wheel,
>but as long as I bought the wheel fixed onto new bearings I'd like
>to use the new bearings also. I've banged on the wheel collar trying
>to get if off the shaft but afraid of doing damage. Is it a press
>fit onto the shaft? I bought a snap ring pliers to just replace the
>rubber wheel but having a hard time getting those snap rings to come
>out of the old & new wheels. So often a seemingly simple job turns
>into an ordeal :x
>
>--------
>"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe
>through life just to arrive safely at death"
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
><http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.phroElectric>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.phroElectric
>www.aget="_blank"
>href="http://www.buildersbooks.com/">www.buildersbooks.comnbsp; *
>My Pilot Store www.mrrace.com
>
>
>courier new,courier"
>size="2"><http://www.aeroelectric.com>www.aeroelectric.com
>.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
>help.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
>tore.com">www.mypilotstore.com
>com">www.mrrace.com
>bution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>tor?Kolb-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>tp://forums.matronics.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How to remove tail wheel? |
| From: | Gary Aman <zeprep251(at)aol.com> |
Sorry Jeff,
That tail wheel assy is a hybrid.The wheel part is stock, and should remove
as I said earlier, but the full swivel deal is a welded marriage of the tw
o kinds.It was painful to hacksaw that 200.00 unit in half, but it worked g
reat!
G.A.
-----Original Message-----
From: William Long <blong6826(at)sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Sun, Nov 3, 2013 4:56 pm
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: How to remove tail wheel?
Should just slid off. Use some penetrating oil.
From: Arizona Flyer <heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com>
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, November 3, 2013 1:50 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: How to remove tail wheel?
On my Firestar II the pizza cutter tail wheel is worn. I bought a new one f
rom Travis at Kolb. I tried to take the old wheel off but it won't budge. I
t seems like the wheel collar is press fit onto the shaft? I could remove t
he snap ring and just install the new wheel, but as long as I bought the wh
eel fixed onto new bearings I'd like to use the new bearings also. I've ban
ged on the wheel collar trying to get if off the shaft but afraid of doing
damage. Is it a press fit onto the shaft? I bought a snap ring pliers to ju
st replace the rubber wheel but having a hard time getting those snap rings
to come out of the old & new wheels. So often a seemingly simple job turns
into an ordeal :x
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through
life just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.phroElectric www.aget="_blank" href
="http://www.buildersbooks.com/">www.buildersbooks.comnbsp; * My Pilot
Store www.mrrace.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How to remove tail wheel? |
| From: | Charlie E <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
Sorry about that, John; that was sent from my "new" nexus7, which apparently
replies to the actual sender instead of the list. And the tractor was only 5
0 yrs old (the nexus likes to exaggerate, too).
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 3, 2013, at 7:31 PM, Charlie wrote:
> 50/50 mix of acetone & plain old ATF. I tried it rebuilding a 500 yr old t
ractor; it works.
>
> John Hauck wrote:
>
> Tail wheel bushing will rust to the 4130 chromoly axle.
>
>
>
> Beating on it could deform the chromoly tube and make it more difficult to
separate
>
>
>
> It will probably take a press.
>
>
>
> You might try heat.
>
>
>
> Good penetrating oil like Kroil:
>
>
>
> http://www.kanolabs.com/
>
>
>
> Kroil beats all the others I have tried.
>
>
>
> john h
>
> mkIII
>
> Titus, Alabama
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make A Contribution To Support Your Lists |
Dear Listers,
There is no advertising income to support the Matronics Email Lists and Forums.
The operation is supported 100% by your personal Contributions during the November
Fund Raiser.
Please make your Contribution today to support the continued operation and upgrade
of these services. You can pick up a really nice gift for making your Contribution
too!
You may use a Credit Card or Paypal at the Matronics Contribution Site here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you in advance for your generous support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Larger, one-piece fuel tank for a Mark-3 |
| From: | JC Gilpin <j.gilpin(at)bigpond.com> |
I know my weight and balance. A couple of pounds at a moment arm of one
foot from the existing CofG isn't going to make a difference that you can
detect in balance. A couple of pounds out at the tailwheel is serious.....
I prefer to carry water instead of the dead load of lead. So I have a
hydration bag full of water packed up in the nose cone. Could be very
welcome if stranded somewhere.....
JG
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | E-gearbox on a 582 powered Slingshot |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
My friend Dave Lewis is considering swapping his B box for an E box to get the
electric start and keep his pull start the way it is. Anyone know if the E box
will bolt right on without interfering with the airframe? He has his engine raised
slightly in the rear to get the prop close to square with the tail boom,
and to increase rear fuselage prop clearance.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: E-gearbox on a 582 powered Slingshot |
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Here is how it fits on the FSII, don't know if it is the same, but this may help.
You can at least see the relationship between all the usual Kolb parts and
the starter.
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
richard (at) bcchapel(dot)org
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen.
Hebrews 11:1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412099#412099
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030347_medium_765.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030346_medium_830.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030344_medium_159.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1030345_medium_800.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GARY JINDRA <gajindra(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: E-gearbox on a 582 powered Slingshot |
-Don't know about the slingshot. On the Mark 3 you have to raise the moto
r or move it back. The starter hit- the rear mount=0A=0AGary Jindra=0A
=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Dennis Rowe <rowedenny@wind
stream.net>=0ATo: Kolb-list =0ASent: Monday, Nove
mber 4, 2013 8:49 AM=0ASubject: Kolb-List: E-gearbox on a 582 powered Sling
indstream.net>=0A=0AMy friend Dave Lewis is considering swapping his B box
for an E box to get the electric start and keep his pull start the way it i
s. Anyone know if the E box will bolt right on without interfering with the
airframe? He has his engine raised slightly in the rear to get the prop cl
ose to square with the tail boom, and to increase rear fuselage prop cleara
=====
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: E-gearbox on a 582 powered Slingshot |
| From: | "Thom Riddle" <riddletr(at)gmail.com> |
Raising the rear of the engine a bit on the Slingshot is a good idea anyway because
the thrust line is higher than ideal (pointed up in front) if parallel to
the engine mount tube. This is not the case for most Kolbs but it is for the
Slingshot.
--------
Thom Riddle
Buffalo, NY (9G0)
Don't worry about old age... it doesn't last very long.
- Anonymous
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412133#412133
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Xtra Steering Problems |
| From: | Brad Nation <nationcap(at)comcast.net> |
I took apart the tail wheel, cleaned, polished, and greased it with new grease.
When I put it back into the housing it turned both ways and releases just fine.
However, when in put the flat arm that connects the tail wheel to the rudder
I get the same problem of it being veeerrry difficult to free it up so that
it swivels when I turn it clock wise.
So how is the notch where the spring ping I the connecting plat supposed to look?
Currently the spring pin fits like a glove vs. the cut out part on the that'll
wheel housing? Should it be tapered like the on the tail wheel housing or
a tight fit?
Sent from my iPad
Brad
> On Oct 28, 2013, at 6:29, "racerjerry" wrote:
>
>
> If flying off a grass field, there will be no problem. If flying off pavement,
there COULD be a problem, but generally, Kolb taildraggers are not overly sensitive
to toe error.
>
> --------
> Jerry King
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=411575#411575
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Finally Flew Her |
| From: | "funnyb0nz" <dan_eshman(at)hotmail.com> |
Well wrapped up my tail dragger endorsement last week and the weather cooperated
today. Finally took my Fire star Kxp up. I was surprised how smooth the takeoff
went. She climbed great. Flew it around to get the feel of the Kolb. I will
say you can't take your hand off the stick or otherwise she noses over fast.
I took to the advice given about landing with throttle. Did some touch and gos
and finally on 4th one felt comfortable to land her. Still think I'm coming
in to fast but eventually ill have it mastered.
So thanks to all for advice. Now I need to figure out how to enclose the cockpit
for winter flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412167#412167
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Network Issues At Matronics Last Few Days... |
Dear Listers,
Starting sometime on Friday November 1st, my Internet Service Provider (ISP) began "upgrading" their Domain Name Servers (DNS). DNS servers allow the resolution of computer names such as "www.matronics.com" to real addresses such as 64.81.74.3. This also impacts email delivery as well, since there is another layer of resolution that applies to email names.
Because of this upgrade on the part of my ISP, DNS service started getting unreliable
around Friday sometime, but I didn't notice it until sometime on Saturday.
When I used a tool called "nslookup" to test the resolution of name-to-address,
about 50-75% of the time my ISP's servers would response with an "SERVFAIL"
indicating that they didn't know the answer. I opened a ticket with the
ISP on Saturday, and by Sunday afternoon I had no feedback on the ticket so I
called in to support. "We upgrading the DNS servers, and it should back by Sunday
at 5pm." 5pm came and went with no resolution.
Well, long story short by Tuesday morning things were still not fixed and in fact
much worse. So, I opted to move all my DNS service to a different service
provider. I have a lot of DNS entries, so it took a while to get everything moved
over. It generally takes about 24 hours for a change like that to fully
propagate across the Internet which would be Wednesday morning sometime. I've
noticed that the Matronics web server traffic is picking up again, so many sites
have already propagated the new information.
I really should have just moved the DNS on Saturday when I first noticed the troubles,
but with stuff like this, you just keep believing that it gonna be fixed
any minute now.... And, in fact, that's what my ISP kept telling me...
Its always a giant bummer when stuff like this happens and particularly during
the Fund Raiser. I apologize to anyone that has tried to make a Contribution
in the last few days and had issues or was simply unable to connect. By the time
you read this email, the DNS should be fully propagated, and I ask that you
please try again.
The Contribution web site URL is:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
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Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you for your kind consideration and patience,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Finally Flew Her |
Finally took my Fire star Kxp up.
Congratulations!
Hope you have many more safe flights.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Finally Flew Her |
| From: | "Larlaeb" <larlaeb(at)gmail.com> |
That's great! Congratz and enjoy!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412268#412268
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 4130 tail wheel Strut |
| From: | "Larlaeb" <larlaeb(at)gmail.com> |
I'm experimenting with a tail wheel strut made of 4130 tubing hardened to about
RC 48 as I think others have done. So far I like it better than the solid aluminum
rod. It seems to ride better over the grass and not bump as hard. I haven't
tried it on pavement yet but so far so good. I think it may be a hair lighter
too and I guess we will see how it holds up.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412270#412270
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | 4130 tail wheel Strut |
I'm experimenting with a tail wheel strut made of 4130 tubing hardened to
about RC 48 as I think others have done. So far I like it better than the
solid aluminum rod. It seems to ride better over the grass and not bump as
hard. I haven't tried it on pavement yet but so far so good. I think it may
be a hair lighter too and I guess we will see how it holds up.
Kolbers:
Been using heat treated (48 RC) 4130 tube tail wheel struts since 1992, main
gear legs also 4130/48RC since 1987. Seem to work better than anything else
out there. Also lighter than 7075 aluminum.
Yes, heat treated 4130 works better because it is a spring.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How to remove tail wheel? |
| From: | "Arizona Flyer" <heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com> |
zeprep251(at)aol.com wrote:
> Sorry Jeff,
> That tail wheel assy is a hybrid.The wheel part is stock, and should remove
as I said earlier, but the full swivel deal is a welded marriage of the two kinds.It
was painful to hacksaw that 200.00 unit in half, but it worked great!
> G.A.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
Thanks for the input guys. Gary; No problem. I'm just going to replace the wheel
and hope the older bearings keep working, thanks...
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412286#412286
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b young" <byoungplumbing(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | tail wheel turning right |
is this the tail wheel you are having trouble turning right?
and did you mention the wheel turns easy till the actuating bar is
bolted on the top?
if all above is true,,,,, there may be a missing washer under the
actuating bar,,,,, or the housing may be a bit too tall.
this is the wheel I am using now and wish I had changed from the pizza
cutter wheel much sooner. I love it. and even more so since I put in
better bearings.
boyd young
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Coming Soon - The List of Contributors - Please Make A Contribution |
Today!
Each year at the end of the List Fund Raiser, I post a message acknowledging everyone
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tail wheel turning right |
| From: | "Arizona Flyer" <heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com> |
byoungplumbing(at)gmail.c wrote:
> is this the tail wheel you are having trouble turning right?
>
> [img]cid:9D2DD9D74D6F4CCD928710FFF260BAEF@BYoungHP[/img]
>
> and did you mention the wheel turns easy till the actuating bar is bolted on
the top?
>
> if all above is true,,,,, there may be a missing washer under the actuating
bar,,,,, or the housing may be a bit too tall.
>
> this is the wheel I am using now and wish I had changed from the pizza cutter
wheel much sooner. I love it. and even more so since I put in better bearings.
>
> boyd young
I like that. Do you know the inside diameter? I'd like to see if that will fit
onto the male shaft coming from my rear boom. What does that one cost? Travis
at Kolb told me the new tail wheel with 1" wide wheel is $300+ dollars but he
said it's a whole new one that needs to be put on the boom. The one in your picture
looks like it might slide right on my shaft. Thanks for the picture, I can
finally see one!
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412418#412418
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tail wheel turning right |
| From: | Gary Aman <zeprep251(at)aol.com> |
If the wheel is not exactly vertical ,or leaning when stationary,it will gi
ve you a fit.The tail spring must be tight in the support tube and the rest
of the assy tight on the spring rod.If it can move off of dead vertical it
will be easy to steer on way and almost impossible the other.The rods get
sloppy in the tube and the bolt hole elongates letting the rod twist.I cure
d that issue on my Mk3 by clamping the rod in the tube
G.Aman
-----Original Message-----
From: Arizona Flyer <heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2013 1:09 pm
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: tail wheel turning right
byoungplumbing(at)gmail.c wrote:
> is this the tail wheel you are having trouble turning right?
>
> [img]cid:9D2DD9D74D6F4CCD928710FFF260BAEF@BYoungHP[/img]
>
> and did you mention the wheel turns easy till the actuating bar is bolte
d on
the top?
>
> if all above is true,,,,, there may be a missing washer under the actu
ating
bar,,,,, or the housing may be a bit too tall.
>
> this is the wheel I am using now and wish I had changed from the pizza
cutter wheel much sooner. I love it. and even more so since I put in b
etter
bearings.
>
> boyd young
I like that. Do you know the inside diameter? I'd like to see if that will
fit
onto the male shaft coming from my rear boom. What does that one cost? Trav
is at
Kolb told me the new tail wheel with 1" wide wheel is $300+ dollars but he
said
it's a whole new one that needs to be put on the boom. The one in your pict
ure
looks like it might slide right on my shaft. Thanks for the picture, I can
finally see one!
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through
life
just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412418#412418
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tail wheel turning right |
| From: | JC Gilpin <j.gilpin(at)bigpond.com> |
*The one in your picture looks like it might slide right on my shaft.I
mounted one of those wider tail wheels really easily on my FireStar. The
inside diameter of the bearing is 5/8" and the original shaft on the
assembly is 1/2", so just needed a short length of 5/8" tubing with a wall
thickness such that it would slide over the original shaft. Found that in
the offcuts from someone else's building project. Notched out one end so it
would fit over the support tubing, then a 3/16" bolt to secure it. Could
weld it if you had access to a welder. Works a heck of a lot better than
that pizza cutter which finally collapsed.... The new tail wheel is
Aircraft Spruce part #06-03500 $23.85.JG[image: Inline image 1]*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists... |
Dear Listers,
Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution
today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great
List services!! Pick up a really nice free gift with your qualifying Contribution
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The Contribution Site is fast and easy:
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or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94551-0347
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tail wheel turning right |
| From: | JC Gilpin <j.gilpin(at)bigpond.com> |
More on tailwheels.
That tailwheel I mentioned is the replacement wheel for the 'Homebuilt'
tailwheel mechanism. I think that's the same mechanism that Kolb offers.
If you're getting the whole mechanism it's worth getting it from Kolb
rather than Spruce, cause the hole for mounting on the tailspring is only
5/8" in the Spruce unit, while we need a 3/4" hole. It's very difficult to
bore out to size because of shoulders on the housing so it can't be chucked
in a lathe. Last year I made the mistake of ordering the Spruce unit when
Kolb was out of stock. Cost another $140 for a machine shop to make up a
special boring tool and do the job. Wouldn't dare try to just drill that
out unless you could run the drill super slow and hold it back from biting
into that big pilot hole.....
Also, I found that the breakaway feature was just a nuisance unless maybe
you have differential braking. Several times it broke away when taxiing,
and couldn't get to re-engage without stopping and getting out and doing it
by hand. Finally ground out the mechanism so that it stayed engaged. So
might as well just have the original Kolb mechanism but with the wider
wheel, as I've done this year. Saved $300 and a couple of pounds this way,
and sure don't need any more weight way back there.
The steering springs on my aircraft were way too soft, especially with the
wider wheel. Got the stiffest ones that were the right length that I could
find at Ace Hardware, and that's better, but still mushy. John H - How can
you hook up 'compression' springs there?? When I get back I think I'll use
3/16" bungy cord, looped around as many times as necessary to get the right
strength. Done that before with another aircraft and I liked it better
than springs....
Just my experience, for what it's worth.....
JG
p.s.- How do you load photos to these posts?? The one that I tried to load
with the previous post didn't seem to work.....
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | daniel myers <h20maule(at)hotmail.com> |
My brother is looking for a firestar II for sale that he will convert to an
amphib full lotus mono set up. If anyone has a firestar for sale please em
ail me at h20maule(at)hotmail.comdaniel
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wanted firestar |
| From: | Frank <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
My firestar 2 is for sale
Call Frank goodnight @4792361121
No Eail please
Tanks Frank
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 9, 2013, at 8:13 AM, daniel myers wrote:
> My brother is looking for a firestar II for sale that he will convert to a
n amphib full lotus mono set up. If anyone has a firestar for sale please em
ail me at h20maule(at)hotmail.com
> daniel
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tail wheel turning right |
The steering springs on my aircraft were way too soft, especially with the
wider wheel. Got the stiffest ones that were the right length that I could
find at Ace Hardware, and that's better, but still mushy. John H - How can
you hook up 'compression' springs there?? When I get back I think I'll use
3/16" bungy cord, looped around as many times as necessary to get the right
strength. Done that before with another aircraft and I liked it better than
springs....
Just my experience, for what it's worth.....
JG
p.s.- How do you load photos to these posts?? The one that I tried to load
with the previous post didn't seem to work.....
JG/Kolbers:
First.attaching photos. Don't know how others do it, but I copy the
photo(s), the paste them to the email.
We lucked out and I found a photo of my tail wheel and springs. I used some
very small carabineers to attach the compression springs to the rudder and
tail wheel.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: tail wheel turning right |
| From: | Rick Neilsen <neilsenrm(at)gmail.com> |
JG/All
I use compression springs like John uses. I think I got them at Aircraft
Spruce. I use four of the attachment things (technical term) to attach my
springs. They look like the rear ones that John shows in the photo, seems
like I got then at the same place. They install like the safety rings but
are much stronger and don't come off in deep grass. I installed them as
tight as I could but they still have a bit droop to the chains. The
compression springs allow the tail wheel to snap to the direction of
landing roll when I touch down without stressing the rudder assembly but
allow for MUCH more positive control in cross winds.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
On Sat, Nov 9, 2013 at 10:45 AM, John Hauck wrote:
>
>
> The steering springs on my aircraft were way too soft, especially with th
e
> wider wheel. Got the stiffest ones that were the right length that I cou
ld
> find at Ace Hardware, and that's better, but still mushy. John H - How c
an
> you hook up 'compression' springs there?? When I get back I think I'll u
se
> 3/16" bungy cord, looped around as many times as necessary to get the rig
ht
> strength. Done that before with another aircraft and I liked it better
> than springs....
>
>
> Just my experience, for what it's worth.....
>
>
> JG
>
>
> p.s.- How do you load photos to these posts?? The one that I tried to
> load with the previous post didn't seem to work.....
>
>
> JG/Kolbers:
>
>
> First=85attaching photos. Don't know how others do it, but I copy the ph
oto(s), the paste them to the email.
>
>
> We lucked out and I found a photo of my tail wheel and springs. I used s
ome very small carabineers to attach the compression springs to the rudder
and tail wheel.
>
>
> john h
>
> mkIII
>
> Titus, Alabama
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tail wheel turning right |
Didn't look at my photo long enough before I sent it.
I used carabineers to attach to the rudder and "normal" tail wheel spring
clips to attach to the tail wheel.
One could easily bend up to strong "s" hooks to do the same job for nothing.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hauck
Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2013 9:46 AM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: tail wheel turning right
The steering springs on my aircraft were way too soft, especially with the
wider wheel. Got the stiffest ones that were the right length that I could
find at Ace Hardware, and that's better, but still mushy. John H - How can
you hook up 'compression' springs there?? When I get back I think I'll use
3/16" bungy cord, looped around as many times as necessary to get the right
strength. Done that before with another aircraft and I liked it better than
springs....
Just my experience, for what it's worth.....
JG
p.s.- How do you load photos to these posts?? The one that I tried to load
with the previous post didn't seem to work.....
JG/Kolbers:
First.attaching photos. Don't know how others do it, but I copy the
photo(s), the paste them to the email.
We lucked out and I found a photo of my tail wheel and springs. I used some
very small carabineers to attach the compression springs to the rudder and
tail wheel.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bent pitot/static tubes loading onto trailer... |
| From: | "Arizona Flyer" <heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com> |
Finally I'm ready to load my Firestar II on the trailer and go fly for only the
2nd time since I got it last spring. And this is only the 2nd time loading it
onto my new trailer. What happens? It's getting dark, I'm tired. I remember the
radio antenna under the nose but it sweeps back so even if the tip hits the
trailer ramp a bit no big deal. But I forget about the pitot & static tubes,
lift the rear of the plane a bit too high and crunch them on the trailer ramp
[Shocked] They are bent back some at the fuse connection and also at the 90*
bend points they are bent pointing up some. I'm about to try bending them back.
Research on Google says heating them with a heat gun won't help soften them.
I hand bent them some last night and the aluminum tubes seem pretty soft. I'm
concerned they will crack while bending them back to proper position. There is
a medium kink in each bend that will probably reduce airflow so I will use a
vice grip to gently press the kink out to get back to round for proper airflow.
I called a local aircraft mechanic this morning and he said those aluminum
pitot tubes should be soft enough to bend back without them cracking but if they
do he has new tubing and can bend & attach new ones. I have a sour nervous
stomach wondering if they will bend back ok. My desert runway is only 1,000 feet
long and I can't afford any inaccuracy in airspeed and risk a surprise stall
and I don't have enough room to come in extra fast and possibly overshoot. I
plan to takeoff and either go to a long desert road and come in fast holding
the wheels just off and slow down watching airspeed and confirm stall speed is
still accurate, or go up a few thousand feet and slowly do a level stall to confirm
if airspeed is still accurate. Bending pitot/static tubes is a huge bummer,
will never do it again!
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412589#412589
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Bent pitot/static tubes loading onto trailer... |
AZ Flyer:
Do you have a name?
Not much airflow in a pitot/static system.
Pitot is measuring air pressure from the air stream. Static is measuring
atmospheric pressure.
As long as the pitot is not crimped shut, it will work.
Same for the static tube. If you have a concern, disconnect the static tube
from the ASI. Take off, climb to 1,000 feet or higher, see what the ASI is
indicating when it stalls. Stay about 10 mph above that speed and you won't
stall. Doesn't matter if it is accurate or not, it will always indicate the
same stall speed.
1000 feet of runway is plenty to land a FSII, especially if you have good
approach and departure paths.
I am not encouraging you to do the above, but if it was me, that is the way
I would do it.
Then...when you have time, replace the tubes.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama - Got an hour this afternoon. Weather was perfect.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Arizona Flyer
Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2013 11:56 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Bent pitot/static tubes loading onto trailer...
-->
Finally I'm ready to load my Firestar II on the trailer and go fly for only
the 2nd time since I got it last spring. And this is only the 2nd time
loading it onto my new trailer. What happens? It's getting dark, I'm tired.
I remember the radio antenna under the nose but it sweeps back so even if
the tip hits the trailer ramp a bit no big deal. But I forget about the
pitot & static tubes, lift the rear of the plane a bit too high and crunch
them on the trailer ramp [Shocked] They are bent back some at the fuse
connection and also at the 90* bend points they are bent pointing up some.
I'm about to try bending them back. Research on Google says heating them
with a heat gun won't help soften them. I hand bent them some last night and
the aluminum tubes seem pretty soft. I'm concerned they will crack while
bending them back to proper position. There is a medium kink in each bend
that will probably reduce airflow so I will use a vice grip to gently press
the kink out to get back !
to round for proper airflow. I called a local aircraft mechanic this
morning and he said those aluminum pitot tubes should be soft enough to bend
back without them cracking but if they do he has new tubing and can bend &
attach new ones. I have a sour nervous stomach wondering if they will bend
back ok. My desert runway is only 1,000 feet long and I can't afford any
inaccuracy in airspeed and risk a surprise stall and I don't have enough
room to come in extra fast and possibly overshoot. I plan to takeoff and
either go to a long desert road and come in fast holding the wheels just off
and slow down watching airspeed and confirm stall speed is still accurate,
or go up a few thousand feet and slowly do a level stall to confirm if
airspeed is still accurate. Bending pitot/static tubes is a huge bummer,
will never do it again!
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through
life just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412589#412589
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kinne russ <russk50(at)gmail.com> |
List -- want to put wingtip strobes on an Xtra. Any suggestions?
Also, which Garmin works best in a Kolb?
Thanx
Russ K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
I've had Kuntzlman strobes on mine since 2003, no problems yet with em.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Nov 9, 2013, at 6:04 PM, kinne russ wrote:
>
>
> List -- want to put wingtip strobes on an Xtra. Any suggestions?
> Also, which Garmin works best in a Kolb?
> Thanx
> Russ K
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020(at)gmail.com> |
https://vimeo.com/79004790
password- owyheeflyer
I took a flight this morning to check for something to hunt. The plane
allowed me to search the area that I was interested in, and find what I
could never have found on foot or by vehicle. Open the video first then the
attachment.
Larry
--
*If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
address before sending.*
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kawasaki 440A FireFly |
| From: | "Dnul" <doug.syler(at)att.net> |
I would like to see how a few others have installed a Donaldson exhaust. The manifold,
plus ball joint, plus pipe distance from engine to muffler is supposed
to be 12-inches to get full power at 6500RPM. Since a manifold and ball-joint
takes up at least 8-inches, that leaves four inches to connect to muffler.
Using a 90-degree bend, 4-inch long pipe, that gives the max total of 12-inches
from the engine to the muffler. Then the muffler could exhaust forward or straight
up in the air. Also it makes the center of the muffler about 10-12 inches
away from the engine. Another requirement beside pipe length is to not have
the exhaust oil going into the belt redrive. I downloaded the Rotax Manual
and see that the Median length of tube on a Rotax 447, 503 and 582 is 26-inches
which would make it easy to have a pipe exhausting to rear. The muffler could
go forward of the engine or over the engine with the muffler's axis perpendicular
to the longitudinal axis but the pipe length would be 16-17 inches.
--------
Dnul
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412609#412609
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b young" <byoungplumbing(at)gmail.com> |
is this one of the wild horses... or a horse from the ranch?
boyd
From: Larry Cottrell
Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2013 6:00 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: video
https://vimeo.com/79004790
password- owyheeflyer
I took a flight this morning to check for something to hunt. The plane
allowed me to search the area that I was interested in, and find what I
could never have found on foot or by vehicle. Open the video first then
the attachment.
Larry
--
If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
address before sending.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020(at)gmail.com> |
Its a horse from the ranch. I wonder how much flack I am going to get from
the picture?
Larry
On Sat, Nov 9, 2013 at 9:07 PM, b young wrote:
> is this one of the wild horses... or a horse from the ranch?
>
> boyd
>
> *From:* Larry Cottrell
> *Sent:* Saturday, November 09, 2013 6:00 PM
> *To:* kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Kolb-List: video
>
> https://vimeo.com/79004790
>
> password- owyheeflyer
>
> I took a flight this morning to check for something to hunt. The plane
> allowed me to search the area that I was interested in, and find what I
> could never have found on foot or by vehicle. Open the video first then t
he
> attachment.
> Larry
>
>
> --
> *If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
> address before sending.*
>
> *
>
===========
m>
ldersbooks.com>
.com>
com>
om/contribution>
===========
onics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List>
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
*If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
address before sending.*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
Hi Russ,
Strobes? Going to do some night flying? we have to be on the ground by
sunset over here. VFR only.
Sounds as though you are making progress. Lets have an update.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Green <bgreen(at)bimi.org> |
| Subject: | Tail wheel springs, 11/09/13 |
Greetings Kolbers.
The compression springs that John H. uses are preferred in my opinion for the tail
wheel/rudder area.
The Cessna 180 I flew in Central America used compression type springs and never
gave any problem. I am using compression springs on my MKIIIX plane and expect
the same good service. There are compression springs sold for screen doors
at ACE hardware. Spruce also carries them. With four boys going in and out
the screen door the springs on the door suffered a lot of abuse but never broke.
:)
It is fairly simple to take the spring apart and attach the chain directly to each
end of the spring. The Kolb kit should have oblong attach rings or small
"s" clamps to attach chain to rudder and tail wheel bracket.
Bob G
MKIIIX N830PB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bent pitot/static tubes loading onto trailer... |
Hi,
pitot tubes are a nuisance in any position. Underneath, they get crunched in
long grass, tail lifting, rough ground. Sticking out in front, some twit
will walk into it. That particular one can be helped by inserting a short
length of rubber tube on the tube just where it leaves the nose cone. This
will allow it to flex if is bent. Sticking up from the top of the nose cone
is good. It is reasonably protected and incidentally gives you something to
compare the horizon with while keeping your eyes outside the cockpit..
You don`t need several thousand feet to check on stall speed. Unless you are
very ham handed she will just nod her head at the stall and recover at once
when you release the back pressure.
A thousand feet is plenty. It doesn`t matter if the speedometer is accurate.
She will stall at the same INDICATED speed every time.
Unless the tube is crimped shut don`t worry too much. There is not much
airflow.
1000ft of runway should be plenty for landing unless you are trying
wheelies. A manoeuvre which I have never understood. The object of landing
is to get the wheels on the ground at the point when she loses flying speed.
I always close the throttle as soon as the strip is made.( Someday you will
have to land deadstick so you might as well practice) Flare and hold off
with progressively more back stick until she lands. If you still have flying
speed she will leap in the air again so don`t do it.
Have fun
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Pat,
I run wingtip strobes during every flight as an anti collision measure. Anything
I can do to see and be seen is a plus.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Nov 10, 2013, at 7:28 AM, "Pat Ladd" wrote:
>
>
> Hi Russ,
>
> Strobes? Going to do some night flying? we have to be on the ground by sunset
over here. VFR only.
>
> Sounds as though you are making progress. Lets have an update.
>
> Pat
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b young" <byoungplumbing(at)gmail.com> |
not from me..... and unless you were culpable in the horses demise....
you shouldn=99t from anyone... if the horse fell due to the
normal course of events or killed by a predator.. it is natural and
normal course of events. what do the animal lovers think happen to a
carcass that is natural prey, or die of old age? in nature nothing is
wasted. that concept is attributed to man. it should be no different
than the white bleached bones your birds landed on last month....
these are just pre bleached. and in another week,,, it will be
stripped clean and the bleaching will begin.
any way to tell from foot prints in the dirt, or teeth marks on the
bones what animals have been feeding, besides the coyotes? the
penny just dropped..... the dead coyote in the picture,,, that
probably was you. oops and as long as killing the coyote is
legal... still should be no flack.... well maybe a bit from the
extreme nut cases.... how is the savage working out?
boyd
From: Larry Cottrell
Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2013 10:05 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: video
Its a horse from the ranch. I wonder how much flack I am going to get
from the picture?
Larry
On Sat, Nov 9, 2013 at 9:07 PM, b young
wrote:
is this one of the wild horses... or a horse from the ranch?
boyd
From: Larry Cottrell
Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2013 6:00 PM
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Kolb-List: video
https://vimeo.com/79004790
password- owyheeflyer
I took a flight this morning to check for something to hunt. The plane
allowed me to search the area that I was interested in, and find what I
could never have found on foot or by vehicle. Open the video first then
the attachment.
Larry
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020(at)gmail.com> |
It is working fine. I killed the "boss hog" this morning at daybreak.
Probably the biggest Coyote that I have ever shot. So far I have killed 7
Coyotes with this rifle, and missed only one. I checked it at 200 yards
yesterday, and shot a one inch group with four shot. If it holds together
It will be fine.
Larry
On Sun, Nov 10, 2013 at 8:33 AM, b young wrote:
> not from me..... and unless you were culpable in the horses
> demise.... you shouldn=92t from anyone... if the horse fell due to th
e
> normal course of events or killed by a predator.. it is natural and norm
al
> course of events. what do the animal lovers think happen to a carcass tha
t
> is natural prey, or die of old age? in nature nothing is wasted. that
> concept is attributed to man. it should be no different than the white
> bleached bones your birds landed on last month.... these are just pre
> bleached. and in another week,,, it will be stripped clean and the
> bleaching will begin.
>
> any way to tell from foot prints in the dirt, or teeth marks on the bone
s
> what animals have been feeding, besides the coyotes? the penny just
> dropped..... the dead coyote in the picture,,, that probably was you.
> oops and as long as killing the coyote is legal... still should be
no
> flack.... well maybe a bit from the extreme nut cases.... how is the
> savage working out?
>
> boyd
>
> *From:* Larry Cottrell
> *Sent:* Saturday, November 09, 2013 10:05 PM
> *To:* kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: Kolb-List: video
>
> Its a horse from the ranch. I wonder how much flack I am going to get
> from the picture?
> Larry
>
>
> On Sat, Nov 9, 2013 at 9:07 PM, b young wrote:
>
>> is this one of the wild horses... or a horse from the ranch?
>>
>> boyd
>>
>> *From:* Larry Cottrell
>> *Sent:* Saturday, November 09, 2013 6:00 PM
>> *To:* kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* Kolb-List: video
>>
>> https://vimeo.com/79004790
>>
>> password- owyheeflyer
>>
>> I took a flight this morning to check for something to hunt. The plane
>> allowed me to search the area that I was interested in, and find what I
>> could never have found on foot or by vehicle. Open the video first then
the
>> attachment.
>> Larry
>>
>>
>> --
>> *If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
>> address before sending.*
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bent pitot/static tubes loading onto trailer... |
| From: | "Arizona Flyer" <heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com> |
John; My name is Jeff. Thanks for the input, much appreciated. Pat, thanks for
your input also. I was able to bend my pitot/static tubes back into proper position,
and took the kinks out by gently using a vice grips to make them round
again. After I finished I reasoned that the pitot probably doesn't need 'full
flow' to register proper airspeed because it's pressure more than flow. Then I
read your comments and knew for sure thanks. I was sweating until I realized
the aluminum was soft enough to not crack, what a relief. Turned out to be somewhat
of a blessing because I found some obstruction in the pitot tube so I cleaned
it out and it wasn't easy figuring out how to do that with the long length
& 90* bend. I have been working on several things for 2 months getting ready
to fly the 2nd time and bending those tubes while loading on the trailer was
a real heartbreak. I doubt I'll need to do any stalls to verify airspeed now
that all is well but I might anyway. Yes, 1,000 feet is plenty for a Firestar.
Heck, in Wisconsin I only had 650 feet and landed my Rans S-7 many times stopping
well short of the end. Not having flown for 11 years except a quick flight
last spring, I'm a bit nervous but know I'll be back in the groove real soon.
Last spring I landed on 600 feet 4 times and had problems stopping in time,
but my idle was set at 2300 RPM, too high. I turned both idle screws out a bit
equally and have it down to 2200 but should go lower. I don't have a carb balancing
tool and am concerned about getting them out of sync. They were in sync
to start with but at the lower 2200 RPM it does not start as easily. With all
my other 2 strokes years ago when cold I'd choke for 2 pulls then they'd fire
right up but I don't remember if I bumped the throttle a little? I trailered
my Firestar out to my desert 40 acres late afternoon yesterday. It awaits me for
flight this afternoon and really looking forward to it. Will be 83* today,
gentle breeze & clear blue skies for several days :D This Kolb forum has been
so valuab!
le I'm m
aking my contribution today. Thanks again guys...
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412639#412639
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bent pitot/static tubes loading onto trailer... |
At 11:28 AM 11/10/2013, Arizona Flyer wrote:
>...I reasoned that the pitot probably doesn't need 'full flow' to register
>proper airspeed because it's pressure more than flow.
It's _only_ pressure; at a constant airspeed the flow through the pitot
tube is zero (unless you have a leak).
As you increase or decrease airspeed, there is a very small flow in or out
until the pressure again stabilizes.
Dana
--
Space isn't remote at all. It's only an hours drive away if your car could
go straight upwards.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kingsbury Fly-In |
| From: | "Larlaeb" <larlaeb(at)gmail.com> |
Flew up to the Kingsbury fly-in yesterday. It's about 165 miles from my home port
here in Hitchcock Texas. Really nice flight with only a little light rain.
Lots of nice planes from days gone by as well as some modern stuff. My MKIII
got more than her share of attention and a number of people had never seen
one before. Also got lots of comments on the amount of runway we didn't need.
Attached a few pictures.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412643#412643
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0515_623.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0500_138.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0520_180.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kingsbury Fly-In |
| From: | "Arizona Flyer" <heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com> |
Beautiful pictures, sharp & clear, thanks for sharing.
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412644#412644
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "t41pilot" <t41pilot(at)frontier.com> |
I just got an Ad from Aircraft Spruce today for a new manufacturer that has some
new and reasonably priced LED Nav and Strobe lights. I also have a circuit for
the DIY people that might want to build their own strobes that I have been
running on my Firefly successfully for 2 years now. I used teardrop shape Motorcycle
marker lights, pulled the guts out and installed my own High power LEDS
inside for the strobe heads. I have 50 bucks or less into my strobes. Anybody
interested in the circuit can E-mail me off list and I'll send a copy of the
schematic. It would make a fun winter hobby project for somebody. The Aircraft
Spruce price looks attractive though as well.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/navstrobesextant1.php
--------
Gregg Kaat
2011 Firefly
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412651#412651
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)wildblue.net> |
Gregg, please e-mail me a copy of the circuit for your Led strobe system. I know
there making realy bright leds now and would love to see the circuit you came
up with using them. I will also be putting strobes and marker lights of my
xtra for safety reasons. Thanks Gregg
cktman(at)wildblue.net
--------
Rick Lewis
(VW Watercooled Engine)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412657#412657
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | John H's old Firestar |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Was just checking out the old pics of John's Firestar that were posted on the Kolb
Facebook page from Oshkosh way back when. Dang that was a good looking bird.
I'd say that Firestar and Ms Pfer are about as nice of examples of either type
that I've ever seen.
Nice work.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How to remove tail wheel? |
| From: | "woody" <n3022.176(at)gmail.com> |
I changed out my "pizza cutter" earlier this year. It had been together for 10
yrs. and didn't want to come apart either. I had to remove the entire assembly,
use a vice, torch and vice grips. It did finally yield but not with out considerable
effort on my part. While I had it apart I changed out the springs to
compression type. I used a Dunn caster & springs from Aircraft Spruce.
Have fun with that tail-wheel....
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412663#412663
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | John H's old Firestar |
Was just checking out the old pics of John's Firestar that were posted on
the Kolb Facebook page from Oshkosh way back when. Dang that was a good
looking bird. I'd say that Firestar and Ms Pfer are about as nice of
examples of either type that I've ever seen.
Nice work.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
Thank you, Dennis, for the kind words.
Just goes to show that anyone can build a decent Kolb.
john h
mkIII - 1992 - 3,232.0 hours
FS - 1987 - 785.0 hours
US - 1984 - 385.0 hours
4,402.0 hours In my own Kolbs. Without looking it up,
don't know how many hours I have in Factory and
other Kolbs. Flying for the
Factory for more than 20 years, easily another 600.00, but that is
just a WAG, and a big one at
that.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bent pitot/static tubes loading onto trailer... |
In a message dated 11/9/2013 12:55:55 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com writes:
Bending pitot/static tubes is a huge bummer, will never do it again!
Jeff,
You say you will NEVER do it again? Ha ! I'll remember this the next
time you post a report about having trouble loading your Kolb onto that
trailer, again!
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bent pitot/static tubes loading onto trailer... |
In a message dated 11/9/2013 3:57:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com writes:
I am not encouraging you to do the above, but if it was me, that is the way
I would do it.
John h/kolbers,
That reminds me of my Dad. When I was a teenager, he and I would be
arguing about how to do something on the farm, and then he would say, "you can
do it any way you want to, but if I were doing it.........". And you better
believe, it was in my best interest to do it his way.
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | A List Contribution - It's Your Personal Squelch Button... |
There is an automatic "squelch button" of sorts for the Fund Raiser messages.
Here's how it works... As soon as a List member makes a Contribution through
the Matronics Fund Raiser web site, their email address is automatically added
to this year's Contributor List and they instantly cease to receive further Fund
Raiser messages for the rest of the month! Its just that simple! :-)
I really do appreciate each and every one of your individual Contributions to support
the Lists. It is your support that enables me to upgrade the hardware
and software that are required to run a List Site such as this one. It also goes
to pay for the commercial-grade Internet connection and to pay the huge electric
bill to keep the computer gear running and the air conditioner powered
on. I run all of the Matronics Email List and Forums sites here locally which
allows me to control and monitor every aspect of the system for the utmost in
reliably and performance. Your personal Contribution matters because, when combined
with other Listers such as yourself, it pays the bills to keep this site
up and running. I accept exactly ZERO advertising dollars for the Matronics
Lists sites. I can't stand the pop-up ads and all other commercials that are
so prevalent on the Internet these days and I particularly don't want to have
it on my Email List sites.
If you appreciate the ad-free, grass-roots, down-home feel of the Matronics Email
Lists, please make a Contribution to keep it that way!!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or, you can send a personal check to the following address:
Matronics / Matt Dralle
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore, CA 94550
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
[Note that there are certain circumstances where you might still see a Contribution
related message. For example, if someone replies to one of the messages,
when using the List Browse feature, or when accessing List message via the Forum.
The system keys on the given email address and since most of these are anonymous
public access methods, there is no simple way to filter them.]
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Matronics Email Disruption Fixed... |
Dear Listers,
Starting around midnight this morning 11/11/13, the Matronics Barracuda spam filter
that receives all incoming email from the Internet, developed a problem and
started rejecting all incoming
email. I just got off the phone with the Barracuda technical support and we have
If you have posted to any of the Lists during this time, you will need to resend
your email to the respective List.
My apologies for the disruption!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Matronics Email Disruption Fixed... |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Matt,
Did donations made during those hours go through?
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Nov 11, 2013, at 1:22 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> Starting around midnight this morning 11/11/13, the Matronics Barracuda spam
filter that receives all incoming email from the Internet, developed a problem
and started rejecting all incoming
> email. I just got off the phone with the Barracuda technical support and we
>
> If you have posted to any of the Lists during this time, you will need to resend
your email to the respective List.
>
> My apologies for the disruption!
>
> Matt Dralle
> Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Xtra Steering Problems |
| From: | Brad Nation <nationcap(at)comcast.net> |
Thanks for all the suggestions and help. I think I figured out the issue with
my tail wheel not unlocking as it should. Upon further investigation I realized
that the issue was that the spring chain assembly that connects the connection
bar to the ruder wasnt allowing the wheel to turn enough so that the spring
pin could retract. The compression springs were from Aircraft Spruce and were
too stiff. I replaced them with heavy duty door springs purchased at the local
hardware store.(Thanks Dennis Kerby for the suggestion.) Unfortunately I was
unable to do a taxi test due to wind. But I think it will do the trick.
Thanks again,
YellowBird 1
Kolb MK III Xtra
PS: I changed my userid to my Dads call sign when he was flying B-57s in Vietnam.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Matronics Email Disruption Fixed... |
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
Demnis,
Yes Contributions were normally received during the email disruption.
Thank you for your support!
Matt
Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 170+ Hours TTSN
Dennis Rowe wrote:
>
>Matt,
>Did donations made during those hours go through?
>
>Dennis "Skid" Rowe
>Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>
>
>> On Nov 11, 2013, at 1:22 PM, Matt Dralle
>wrote:
>>
>>
>> Dear Listers,
>>
>> Starting around midnight this morning 11/11/13, the Matronics
>Barracuda spam filter that receives all incoming email from the
>Internet, developed a problem and started rejecting all incoming
>> email. I just got off the phone with the Barracuda technical support
>>
>> If you have posted to any of the Lists during this time, you will
>need to resend your email to the respective List.
>>
>> My apologies for the disruption!
>>
>> Matt Dralle
>> Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Xtra Steering Problems |
| From: | Rick Neilsen <neilsenrm(at)gmail.com> |
Brad
I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. If you were having problems
getting the tail wheel to unlock then I have a better suggestion. The
problem is that the tail wheel doesn't turn enough to unlock. This can be
fixed by drilling the tail wheel bellcrank to allow the control chains to
be attached closer together to effectively increase the turning ratio
between the rudder and the tail wheel. The optional tail wheel has a much
longer bellcrank than the stock tail wheel.
The advantage of the compression springs is that they keep the tail wheel
from a unexpected unlock in cross winds. The above suggestion on modifying
the tail wheel bellcrank allows you to turn by unlocking the tail wheel
without having to slam the tail wheel sideways enough to overcome spring
tension for a tail wheel unlock. This also reduces the ground handling
sideloading on the tail feathers which has been a problem on older Kolbs.
I did this fix on my MKIIIC years ago and it has worked well.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 10:58 PM, Brad Nation wrote
:
>
> Thanks for all the suggestions and help. I think I figured out the issue
> with my tail wheel not unlocking as it should. Upon further investigatio
n
> I realized that the issue was that the spring chain assembly that connect
s
> the connection bar to the ruder wasn=92t allowing the wheel to turn enoug
h so
> that the spring pin could retract. The compression springs were from
> Aircraft Spruce and were too stiff. I replaced them with heavy duty door
> springs purchased at the local hardware store.(Thanks Dennis Kerby for th
e
> suggestion.) Unfortunately I was unable to do a taxi test due to wind. Bu
t
> I think it will do the trick.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> YellowBird 1
> Kolb MK III Xtra
>
> PS: I changed my userid to my Dad=92s call sign when he was flying B-57s
in
> Vietnam.
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs. |
| From: | "Arizona Flyer" <heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com> |
Reporting on my new Lithium Iron battery... It's amazing, and is working very well
in my FS-II. When I picked up the shipping box on my back porch which held
the battery & charger it was so light I didn't think there could be much power
in this battery. After opening the box I was shocked at how small it was, more
shocked how light it was. I was thinking this could barely power a child's
little electric car around the driveway. I thought how could it start a Rotax
503? I now have 2 flights on it and my 503 is cold blooded so it sometimes takes
a bit of cranking to start and this battery shows no sign of wearing down.
This Shorai Lithium Iron is fantastic, very pleased with my decision to get this.
And it's only 1 1/2 lbs. It's very small and I just got a small cloth strap
with Velcro from Ace hardware and was a 2 minute job to install. I picked up
the old lead acid battery and it's so heavy and seems like ancient history now.
Saved a little more weight by replacing that old big stainless steel strap
with the feather weight cloth strap. If you want to save several pounds you've
got to try one of these, a lot easier to mount also.
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412889#412889
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Ricketts <agramjak(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs. |
I got one for my FSII as well, worth the few extra $
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 12, 2013, at 2:48 PM, "Arizona Flyer" wrote:
>
>
> Reporting on my new Lithium Iron battery... It's amazing, and is working very
well in my FS-II. When I picked up the shipping box on my back porch which held
the battery & charger it was so light I didn't think there could be much power
in this battery. After opening the box I was shocked at how small it was,
more shocked how light it was. I was thinking this could barely power a child's
little electric car around the driveway. I thought how could it start a Rotax
503? I now have 2 flights on it and my 503 is cold blooded so it sometimes
takes a bit of cranking to start and this battery shows no sign of wearing down.
This Shorai Lithium Iron is fantastic, very pleased with my decision to get
this. And it's only 1 1/2 lbs. It's very small and I just got a small cloth strap
with Velcro from Ace hardware and was a 2 minute job to install. I picked
up the old lead acid battery and it's so heavy and seems like ancient history
now. Saved a little more weight by replacing that old!
> big stainless steel strap with the feather weight cloth strap. If you want to
save several pounds you've got to try one of these, a lot easier to mount also.
>
> --------
> "Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
just to arrive safely at death"
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412889#412889
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs. |
my 503 is cold blooded so it sometimes takes a bit of cranking to start
and this battery shows no sign of wearing down.
Kolbers:
There is one correct procedure to crank a cold Rotax, 2 or 4 stroke. If one
doesn't follow the way the book says to crank it, it will be difficult to
start, especially when cold.
Bing carbs used on 2 and 4 stroke Rotax do not have a choke. They use an
enricher system. If the throttle is not in the closed position when the
enricher is pulled fully on, the enricher will not work properly.
There is an enricher well in the float bowl and also an enricher jet. With
throttle closed and enricher fully on, when the engine is cranked it
initially pulls a big slug of fuel out of the enricher well, then continues
to pull fuel through the enricher jet which is larger than the idle jet.
During the start procedure the engine gets more air and fuel which also
causes a faster idle. Once the engine starts, you can slowly increase
throttle and rpm to whatever the books calls for warm ups.
I have never had a need for primers on any of my aircraft, 2 and 4 stroke,
when I use the recommend start procedure.
Have started all my Rotax engines, well below freezing, with no problems,
pull and electric start.
Thought I would throw that tidbit out to you all. Your mileage may vary.
;-)
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nick Cassara" <nickc(at)mtaonline.net> |
| Subject: | More info on tailwheel 4130 tube needed... |
Hello Kolb Flyers,
A little while back a couple folks talked about replacing the Aluminum tail
wheel tube with a piece of 4130 steel. I talked to my local shop and they
want to know what wall thickness is being used and they are unsure about the
Hardness available, but would see what they could get.
Any additional information would be much appreciated !
Thanks,
Nick
Palmer, Ak
0607AK
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Xtra Steering Problems |
| From: | Gary Aman <zeprep251(at)aol.com> |
You might have some difficulty drilling that part because it has been harden
ed to reduce wear at the keyway.ate up some good drill bits
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 12, 2013, at 9:30 AM, Rick Neilsen wrote:
>
> Brad
>
> I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. If you were having problems
getting the tail wheel to unlock then I have a better suggestion. The probl
em is that the tail wheel doesn't turn enough to unlock. This can be fixed b
y drilling the tail wheel bellcrank to allow the control chains to be attach
ed closer together to effectively increase the turning ratio between the rud
der and the tail wheel. The optional tail wheel has a much longer bellcrank t
han the stock tail wheel.
>
> The advantage of the compression springs is that they keep the tail wheel f
rom a unexpected unlock in cross winds. The above suggestion on modifying th
e tail wheel bellcrank allows you to turn by unlocking the tail wheel withou
t having to slam the tail wheel sideways enough to overcome spring tension f
or a tail wheel unlock. This also reduces the ground handling sideloading on
the tail feathers which has been a problem on older Kolbs.
>
> I did this fix on my MKIIIC years ago and it has worked well.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
>
>
>> On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 10:58 PM, Brad Nation wro
te:
>>
>> Thanks for all the suggestions and help. I think I figured out the issue
with my tail wheel not unlocking as it should. Upon further investigation I
realized that the issue was that the spring chain assembly that connects th
e connection bar to the ruder wasn=99t allowing the wheel to turn enou
gh so that the spring pin could retract. The compression springs were from A
ircraft Spruce and were too stiff. I replaced them with heavy duty door spr
ings purchased at the local hardware store.(Thanks Dennis Kerby for the sugg
estion.) Unfortunately I was unable to do a taxi test due to wind. But I thi
nk it will do the trick.
>>
>> Thanks again,
>>
>> YellowBird 1
>> Kolb MK III Xtra
>>
>> PS: I changed my userid to my Dad=99s call sign when he was flying B
-57s in Vietnam.
>>
>> ==========
>> ="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>> ooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
>> et="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> et="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>> "_blank">www.mrrace.com
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> le, List Admin.
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs. |
| From: | "Larlaeb" <larlaeb(at)gmail.com> |
I have used a Lithium battery in my MkIII with a 912UL for the last 5 months or
so. Works great and I have had no starting problems. I may have a slightly
bigger one that mentioned above. Mine weights almost 2 lbs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412896#412896
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | More info on tailwheel 4130 tube needed... |
A little while back a couple folks talked about replacing the Aluminum tail
wheel tube with a piece of 4130 steel. I talked to my local shop and they
want to know what wall thickness is being used and they are unsure about the
Hardness available, but would see what they could get.
Any additional information would be much appreciated !
Thanks,
Nick
Nick:
.120 wall thickness. Heat treat to 48RC. Heat treating should be done
after all welding, drilling, etc.
The length of the tail wheel strut can be reduced by about a half of
whatever the plans call for.
Don't know why Homer liked the tail wheel strut so long.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More info on tailwheel 4130 tube needed... |
| From: | "Larlaeb" <larlaeb(at)gmail.com> |
Recently I did the same thing. Same thickness and hardness. I waited until after
it was hardened to drill and it is a little more difficult. However with
a slow speed and cutting oil I didn't have any trouble with a new carbide bit.
In my case I'm glad I did it that way because the hardening process caused the
tubing to curve slightly and I was able to use the slight curve to my advantage
(up and down rather than side to side). Perhaps a better hardening outfit
can avoid the distortion but I was told it was hard to avoid on stuff this
thin. I like the way it rides better than with the solid aluminum, has some spring
to it.
Allan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412901#412901
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make A List Contribution Today; Some Nice Comments... |
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I've been getting some very nice comments from Listers along with their List Support
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Or feel free to send a personal check to:
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Matronics Email List Administrator
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-------------------- What Listers Are Saying About The Lists --------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More info on tailwheel 4130 tube needed... |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
That is a surprisingly thick wall for that little 3/4 inch rod! =F0=9F=98=B3
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Nov 12, 2013, at 8:32 PM, "John Hauck" wrote:
>
>
> A little while back a couple folks talked about replacing the Aluminum tai
l wheel tube with a piece of 4130 steel. I talked to my local shop and they w
ant to know what wall thickness is being used and they are unsure about the H
ardness available, but would see what they could get
>
> Any additional information would be much appreciated !
>
> Thanks,
>
> Nick
>
>
>
> Nick:
>
> .120 wall thickness. Heat treat to 48RC. Heat treating should be done af
ter all welding, drilling, etc.
>
> The length of the tail wheel strut can be reduced by about a half of whate
ver the plans call for.
>
> Don't know why Homer liked the tail wheel strut so long.
>
> john h
> mkIII
> Titus, Alabama
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | More info on tailwheel 4130 tube needed... |
That is a surprisingly thick wall for that little 3/4 inch rod!
=F0=9F=98=B3
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
Dennis:
That's what it takes to get the job done on my MKIII.
I also have a plate welded to the end on my tail wheel strut to mimic a
flat tail spring to attach a Maule tail wheel. Works well.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More info on tailwheel 4130 tube needed... |
| From: | "Larlaeb" <larlaeb(at)gmail.com> |
Possibly overkill from a strength perspective but there is a lot of twisting force
on that rod/tube when you start shoving the tail around and the bolt that
holds it in tends to wallow out the hole so my take would be that the thicker
stuff helps prevent that a bit.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=412987#412987
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lee" <lmorgan100(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Landing gear update |
Hi everyone,
I wanted to give an update of how the steel landing gear has been working on
my MKII Twinstar.
I put the hardened steel gear on this spring after several tries of using
the aluminum gear.
(The camber and toe in/out with aluminum gear would be all over the place
depending on if I had a passenger or not which would send me all over the
runway when landing.)
I have about 45 hours on the steel gear and it has been great ! with or
without a passenger, it goes down the runway straight. (much better on a tar
runway also)
My runway is bumpy, uneven and a couple of spots that want to send me back
into the air if I hit them fast enough. The gear has enough spring in it to
handle it well.
(I know it should be smoothed out, but I don't own the land and the farmer
does not want me to do anything to it, I am not going to ruffle any
feathers.)
I had to make new wheel attachment brackets to fit the straight steel legs
so I installed a set of hydraulic mountain bike brakes at the same time.
I am surprised at how good these little brakes hold, I can run it up to nose
over and the brakes still hold. I don't think the pads will last long but
they are only about $8. a set.
I also set it up with two brake handles on the stick, works really well for
turning.
I have included a few pictures of the setup.
don't look to close to the gear paint, it was a quick spray on some paint so
it doesn't rust deal.
Also want to thank everyone for helping me out with the steel leg
conversion.
Lee,
MKII twinstar, CGS hawk classic,
Goldwing, Vector
Lee..
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Xtra Steering Problems |
| From: | Rick Neilsen <neilsenrm(at)gmail.com> |
Gary/All
Yes the bellcrank is hardened. I found a drill bit for hardened steel at
Production Tool that drilled it with no problems.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 7:06 PM, Gary Aman wrote:
> You might have some difficulty drilling that part because it has been
> hardened to reduce wear at the keyway.ate up some good drill bits
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 12, 2013, at 9:30 AM, Rick Neilsen wrote:
>
> Brad
>
> I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. If you were having problem
s
> getting the tail wheel to unlock then I have a better suggestion. The
> problem is that the tail wheel doesn't turn enough to unlock. This can be
> fixed by drilling the tail wheel bellcrank to allow the control chains to
> be attached closer together to effectively increase the turning ratio
> between the rudder and the tail wheel. The optional tail wheel has a much
> longer bellcrank than the stock tail wheel.
>
> The advantage of the compression springs is that they keep the tail wheel
> from a unexpected unlock in cross winds. The above suggestion on modifyin
g
> the tail wheel bellcrank allows you to turn by unlocking the tail wheel
> without having to slam the tail wheel sideways enough to overcome spring
> tension for a tail wheel unlock. This also reduces the ground handling
> sideloading on the tail feathers which has been a problem on older Kolbs.
>
> I did this fix on my MKIIIC years ago and it has worked well.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 10:58 PM, Brad Nation wrot
e:
>
>>
>> Thanks for all the suggestions and help. I think I figured out the issu
e
>> with my tail wheel not unlocking as it should. Upon further investigati
on
>> I realized that the issue was that the spring chain assembly that connec
ts
>> the connection bar to the ruder wasn=92t allowing the wheel to turn enou
gh so
>> that the spring pin could retract. The compression springs were from
>> Aircraft Spruce and were too stiff. I replaced them with heavy duty doo
r
>> springs purchased at the local hardware store.(Thanks Dennis Kerby for t
he
>> suggestion.) Unfortunately I was unable to do a taxi test due to wind. B
ut
>> I think it will do the trick.
>>
>> Thanks again,
>>
>> YellowBird 1
>> Kolb MK III Xtra
>>
>> PS: I changed my userid to my Dad=92s call sign when he was flying B-57s
in
>> Vietnam.
>>
>> ==========
>> ="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>> ooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
>> et="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> et="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>> "_blank">www.mrrace.com
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> le, List Admin.
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D
> ot;">www.aeroelectric.com <http://www.aeroelectric.com>
> books.com <http://books.com>"">www.buildersbooks.com
> quot;">www.homebuilthelp.com <http://www.homebuilthelp.com>
> quot;">www.mypilotstore.com <http://www.mypilotstore.com>
> ">www.mrrace.com <http://www.mrrace.com>
> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D
> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D
> //forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D
> *
>
> *
>
===========
m>
ldersbooks.com>
.com>
com>
om/contribution>
===========
onics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List>
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Xtra Steering Problems |
| From: | james.vanlaak(at)gmail.com |
I made an extension for the steering arm on the bottom of the rudder. That
let me drill several holes to vary the ratio till I found what I wanted.
Much easier to do and to adjust as you like.
On Wed, Nov 13, 2013 at 10:29 AM, Rick Neilsen wrote:
> Gary/All
>
> Yes the bellcrank is hardened. I found a drill bit for hardened steel at
> Production Tool that drilled it with no problems.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 7:06 PM, Gary Aman wrote:
>
>> You might have some difficulty drilling that part because it has been
>> hardened to reduce wear at the keyway.ate up some good drill bits
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Nov 12, 2013, at 9:30 AM, Rick Neilsen wrote:
>>
>> Brad
>>
>> I'm not sure I understand what you are saying. If you were having
>> problems getting the tail wheel to unlock then I have a better suggestio
n.
>> The problem is that the tail wheel doesn't turn enough to unlock. This c
an
>> be fixed by drilling the tail wheel bellcrank to allow the control chain
s
>> to be attached closer together to effectively increase the turning ratio
>> between the rudder and the tail wheel. The optional tail wheel has a muc
h
>> longer bellcrank than the stock tail wheel.
>>
>> The advantage of the compression springs is that they keep the tail whee
l
>> from a unexpected unlock in cross winds. The above suggestion on modifyi
ng
>> the tail wheel bellcrank allows you to turn by unlocking the tail wheel
>> without having to slam the tail wheel sideways enough to overcome spring
>> tension for a tail wheel unlock. This also reduces the ground handling
>> sideloading on the tail feathers which has been a problem on older Kolbs
.
>>
>> I did this fix on my MKIIIC years ago and it has worked well.
>>
>> Rick Neilsen
>> Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 11, 2013 at 10:58 PM, Brad Nation wro
te:
>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for all the suggestions and help. I think I figured out the
>>> issue with my tail wheel not unlocking as it should. Upon further
>>> investigation I realized that the issue was that the spring chain assem
bly
>>> that connects the connection bar to the ruder wasn=92t allowing the whe
el to
>>> turn enough so that the spring pin could retract. The compression sprin
gs
>>> were from Aircraft Spruce and were too stiff. I replaced them with hea
vy
>>> duty door springs purchased at the local hardware store.(Thanks Dennis
>>> Kerby for the suggestion.) Unfortunately I was unable to do a taxi test
due
>>> to wind. But I think it will do the trick.
>>>
>>> Thanks again,
>>>
>>> YellowBird 1
>>> Kolb MK III Xtra
>>>
>>> PS: I changed my userid to my Dad=92s call sign when he was flying B-57
s
>>> in Vietnam.
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> ="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>>> ooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
>>> et="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>>> et="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>>> "_blank">www.mrrace.com
>>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> le, List Admin.
>>> ==========
>>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>>> ==========
>>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> *
>>
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D
>> ot;">www.aeroelectric.com <http://www.aeroelectric.com>
>> books.com <http://books.com>"">www.buildersbooks.com
>> quot;">www.homebuilthelp.com <http://www.homebuilthelp.com>
>> quot;">www.mypilotstore.com <http://www.mypilotstore.com>
>> ">www.mrrace.com <http://www.mrrace.com>
>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D
>> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D
>> //forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D
>> *
>>
>> *
>>
>> _blank">www.aeroelectric.com <http://www.aeroelectric.com>
>> .com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com <http://www.buildersbooks.
com>
>> ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com <http://www.homebuilthelp.com>
>> ="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com <http://www.mypilotstore.com>
>> ank">www.mrrace.com <http://www.mrrace.com>
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
===========
m>
ldersbooks.com>
.com>
com>
om/contribution>
===========
onics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List>
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs |
| From: | "Kirby, Dennis Civ USAF AFMC AFNWC/ENS" <Dennis.Kirby(at)kirtland.af.mil> |
"Arizona Flyer" wrote: << Reporting on my new Lithium Iron battery...
It's amazing, and is working very well in my FS-II. >>
Kolb Friends -
I am getting ready to replace the battery in my Mark-III, and have been
paying close attention to reports of folks using Lithium-Ion batteries.
The power density in these new technology batteries is impressive, and
they still seem to also have plenty of cranking amps.
Does anybody have experience with one of these batteries on a 912
engine? What size is recommended for a 912? Thanks ...
Dennis Kirby
Mark-III
Sandia Park, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Firestar battery Lithium Iron 1.46 lbs |
| From: | "Larlaeb" <larlaeb(at)gmail.com> |
I'm using one for my 912. The one I have is a 20 AH, 410 CCA EVO2-LifePO4 battery
marketed by Ballistic Performance Components. Part Number 2113-0265. I purchased
this one on eBay. It has given me excellent performance for the 5 months
I have been using it. The other day I did a carb balance and restarted the
engine 7 or 8 times, only running it briefly while I checked the gauges. It
never even began to slow down. I can't say it's the best size or type but
it works for me. It has slightly more power than the old battery I took off and
weights a little less than 2 lbs I believe. Hope that helps.
Allan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413051#413051
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Published in |
December!
Dear Listers,
The List of Contributors (LOC) is just around the corner! In December I post a
list of everyone that so generously made a Contribution to support the Lists.
Its my way of publicly thanking everyone that took a minute to show their appreciation
for the Lists.
Won't you take minute and assure that your name is on the upcoming LOC? Tell others
that you appreciate the Lists. Making a Contribution to support the Lists
is fast and easy using your Visa, MasterCard, or Paypal account:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
I would like to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution thus
far during this year's List Fund Raiser! Remember that its YOUR support that
keeps these Lists running and improving! Don't forget to include a little comment
about how the Lists have helped you!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lee" <lmorgan100(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | mkII landing gear and brakes again |
see if these pictures show up.
I will take some better pictures for those that want and will send them of
list.
Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lee" <lmorgan100(at)charter.net> |
ok, I have tried to post pictures 2 times and I am doing something wrong.
I tried to insert from a file and I did a copy and paste.
how do you do it ?
Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
ok, I have tried to post pictures 2 times and I am doing something wrong.
I tried to insert from a file and I did a copy and paste.
how do you do it ?
Lee
Lee:
Here is how I do it:
-Copy the photo.
-Anywhere in the message box of the reply email, paste the photo.
Should automatically put the file in the Attached box.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
Lovely picture John.
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
TWO TIMES? Whatever happened to TWICE?
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kinne russ <russk50(at)gmail.com> |
Doesn't your English-to-American translation dictionary tell you that?
On Nov 17, 2013, at 6:01 AM, Pat Ladd wrote:
>
>
> TWO TIMES? Whatever happened to TWICE?
>
> Pat
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | undoctor <undoctor(at)ptd.net> |
UGF0LCBzdHJpY3RseSBvdXQgb2YgY3VyaW9zaXR5LCBkbyB0aGUgZm9sa3Mgb24geW91ciBzaWRl
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Fund Raiser Behind By 25% - Please Contribute Today! |
Dear Listers,
The percentage of members making a Contribution to support the Lists this year
is currently behind last year by at this time by roughly 25%. We got off to a
slow start this year with the network DNS issues on the kickoff weekend, so please
take this opportunity to show your support for the Matronics Lists and Forums!
Please remember that it is *solely* your direct Contributions that keep these Lists
and Forums up and running and most importantly - AD FREE! If the members
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that. I really like the non-commercial atmosphere here and I think that a lot
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Please take a moment to make a Contribution today in support of the continued ad-free
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http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
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USA
I want to send out a word of appreciation to all of the members that have already
made their generous Contribution to support the Lists! Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List and Forums Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
do the folks on your side of the pond commonly say three times or
thrice?>>
Hi,
I was waiting for that.
No, thrice has fallen out of use many years ago but I have never said
`two times` in my life and certainly no one of my generation, or the
following one, has done so.Always `twice`. When we learned our tables it
was `Twice two are four` etc. (See Danny Kaye `Inchworm)
`Two times` I have noticed is creeping into use now though. Just one
more thing which raises my ire these days
I know that language changes but, like most things it is changing too
quickly for my taste.
For instance when I asked my grand daughter (aged 16 ) if she would like
to come to the theatre with me she answered. "No thanks, It doesn`t
tickle my cheeky"
What the hell does that mean?
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
Doesn't your English-to-American translation dictionary tell you that?>>
Hi Russ,
The trouble is that your language is called `English` when it patently
is not.
If it was called `American` then we could treat it like any other
language spoken by foreigners.
I don`t know if you are aware of Flanders and Swann. A couple who wrote
and performed there own stuff. Just piano and two voices.
They wrote a piece called `A song of patriotic prejudice` with a chorus
of
The English the English The English are best
I wouldn`t give tuppence for all of the rest
The last stanza was
It is not that they`re wicked or naturally bad
Its just knowing they`re `foreign` that makes them so mad
They probably wouldn`t be allowed to sing it now in case it upset
someone's tender feelings.
Cheers
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lee" <lmorgan100(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Kolb-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 11/17/13 |
ok ok,
I didn't think they went thru, when I got the list, they didn't show.
Lee..
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kolb-List Digest
Server
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2013 3:02 AM
Subject: Kolb-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 11/17/13
*
=================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
=================================================
Today's complete Kolb-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the Kolb-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter
13-11-17&Archive=Kolb
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter
2013-11-17&Archive=Kolb
===============================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
===============================================
----------------------------------------------------------
Kolb-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Sun 11/17/13: 4
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:07 AM - Re: pictures (Pat Ladd)
2. 03:08 AM - Re: pictures (Pat Ladd)
3. 07:25 AM - Re: pictures (kinne russ)
4. 07:39 AM - Re: pictures (undoctor)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
From: "Pat Ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: pictures
Lovely picture John.
Pat
________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
From: "Pat Ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: pictures
TWO TIMES? Whatever happened to TWICE?
Pat
________________________________ Message 3
_____________________________________
From: kinne russ <russk50(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: pictures
Doesn't your English-to-American translation dictionary tell you that?
On Nov 17, 2013, at 6:01 AM, Pat Ladd wrote:
>
>
> TWO TIMES? Whatever happened to TWICE?
>
> Pat
>
>
________________________________ Message 4
_____________________________________
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: pictures
From: undoctor <undoctor(at)ptd.net>
UGF0LCBzdHJpY3RseSBvdXQgb2YgY3VyaW9zaXR5LCBkbyB0aGUgZm9sa3Mgb24geW91ciBzaWRl
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PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT0K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Codd" <j.codd(at)btopenworld.com> |
Hi Pat, I thought that you would be interested to know that your old
Kolb Xtra which was deregistered by the chap that bought it from you and
sold the engine, has now been bought by one of our club members and is
in the process of having a reconditioned Jabiru 2200 fitted to it, it
will be re-registered, permitted and flying again in a month or two,
excellent news that as it was such a nice looking aeroplane,
Cheers, John Codd, North Lincs in UK, Kolb Mk3 Xtra with Jabiru 2200,
From: Pat Ladd
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2013 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: pictures
Doesn't your English-to-American translation dictionary tell you that?>>
Hi Russ,
The trouble is that your language is called `English` when it patently
is not.
If it was called `American` then we could treat it like any other
language spoken by foreigners.
I don`t know if you are aware of Flanders and Swann. A couple who wrote
and performed there own stuff. Just piano and two voices.
They wrote a piece called `A song of patriotic prejudice` with a chorus
of
The English the English The English are best
I wouldn`t give tuppence for all of the rest
The last stanza was
It is not that they`re wicked or naturally bad
Its just knowing they`re `foreign` that makes them so mad
They probably wouldn`t be allowed to sing it now in case it upset
someone's tender feelings.
Cheers
Pat
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
11/18/13
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kinne russ <russk50(at)gmail.com> |
I'm nit-picking, but have been an editor & rewriter for years & this got
my attention --
you say
> performed there own stuff.
and it should be 'their'
But I still like you!
Russ
On Nov 18, 2013, at 6:26 AM, Pat Ladd wrote:
> Doesn't your English-to-American translation dictionary tell you
that?>>
>
> Hi Russ,
>
> The trouble is that your language is called `English` when it patently
is not.
>
> If it was called `American` then we could treat it like any other
language spoken by foreigners.
>
> I don`t know if you are aware of Flanders and Swann. A couple who
wrote and performed there own stuff. Just piano and two voices.
> They wrote a piece called `A song of patriotic prejudice` with a
chorus of
> The English the English The English are best
> I wouldn`t give tuppence for all of the rest
>
> The last stanza was
>
> It is not that they`re wicked or naturally bad
> Its just knowing they`re `foreign` that makes them so mad
>
> They probably wouldn`t be allowed to sing it now in case it upset
someone's tender feelings.
>
> Cheers
>
> Pat
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020(at)gmail.com> |
For instance when I asked my grand daughter (aged 16 ) if she would like to
come to the theatre with me she answered. "No thanks, It doesn`t tickle my
cheeky"
So, I am curious did you insult her as well?
Larry
On Mon, Nov 18, 2013 at 4:15 AM, Pat Ladd wrote:
> do the folks on your side of the pond commonly say three times or
> thrice?>>
>
> Hi,
> I was waiting for that.
>
> No, thrice has fallen out of use many years ago but I have never said `two
> times` in my life and certainly no one of my generation, or the following
> one, has done so.Always `twice`. When we learned our tables it was `Twice
> two are four` etc. (See Danny Kaye `Inchworm)
> `Two times` I have noticed is creeping into use now though. Just one more
> thing which raises my ire these days
>
> I know that language changes but, like most things it is changing too
> quickly for my taste.
>
> For instance when I asked my grand daughter (aged 16 ) if she would like
> to come to the theatre with me she answered. "No thanks, It doesn`t tickle
> my cheeky"
>
> What the hell does that mean?
>
> Cheers
>
> Pat
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
*If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
address before sending.*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
On 11/18/2013 5:15 AM, Pat Ladd wrote:
> do the folks on your side of the pond commonly say three times or
> thrice?>>
> Hi,
> I was waiting for that.
> No, thrice has fallen out of use many years ago but I have never said
> `two times` in my life and certainly no one of my generation, or the
> following one, has done so.Always `twice`. When we learned our tables
> it was `Twice two are four` etc. (See Danny Kaye `Inchworm)
> `Two times` I have noticed is creeping into use now though. Just one
> more thing which raises my ire these days
> I know that language changes but, like most things it is changing too
> quickly for my taste.
> For instance when I asked my grand daughter (aged 16 ) if she would
> like to come to the theatre with me she answered. "No thanks, It
> doesn`t tickle my cheeky"
> What the hell does that mean?
> Cheers
> Pat
I wouldn't call it 'creeping'. When I learned multiplication tables in
the American South early in the Cold War (late 1950's), it was always '2
times x equals y'; never heard it any other way. It boils down to
cultural differences. If you look at the setup routines for computer
software & operating systems, many will actually offer options for
'American English' and British English'.
I must say, though, that the American Southern way is actually more
consistent. How would you translate '13 times 7'?
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
and it should be 'their'>
Of course it should. Enny fule no that.
Grovelling apologies
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kinne russ <russk50(at)gmail.com> |
List, my apologies. That was meant for Pat alone
Sorry.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kinne russ <russk50(at)gmail.com> |
List, my apologies. That was meant for Pat alone
Sorry.
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
list is slow..I am enjoying the banter! :-) Herb in Ky
ps Churchill said it best... two countries divided by a common
language....something like that...??
On 11/18/2013 06:01 PM, kinne russ wrote:
>
> List, my apologies. That was meant for Pat alone
> Sorry.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
I put strobes on the wingtips of Ed's FSII when I rebuilt it, they turned out nicely.
This is from the archives.
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=292469#292469
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=69825&highlight
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=73071&highlight
If I had it to do over, I would have bent the counterweight tubes to lay closer
to the wingtips. But it looks good and fly's good.
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
richard (at) bcchapel(dot)org
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen.
Hebrews 11:1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413428#413428
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Value of the List... |
If you look forward to checking your List email everyday (and a lot of you have
written to say that you do!), then you're probably getting at least $20 or $30
worth of Entertainment from the Lists each year. You'd pay twice that for a
subscription to some magazine or even a dinner out. Isn't the List worth at least
that much to you? Wouldn't it be great if you could pay that amount and get
a well-managed media source free of advertising, SPAM, and viruses? Come to
think of it, you do... :-)
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these
Lists?
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
I want to say THANK YOU to everyone that has made a Contribution thus far during
this year's List Fund Raiser!! These Lists are made possible exclusively through
YOUR generosity!!
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Green <bgreen(at)bimi.org> |
| Subject: | RE: Kolb-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 11/19/13 |
Richard: Always amazed at your innovations for up grades on the Kolbs.
Thank you for posting these photos and info.
Bob G
N830PB
MKIIIX w/GPAS VW
From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
I put strobes on the wingtips of Ed's FSII when I rebuilt it, they turned out nicely.
This is from the archives.
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=292469#292469
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=69825&highlight
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=73071&highlight
If I had it to do over, I would have bent the counterweight tubes to lay closer
to the wingtips. But it looks good and fly's good.
--------
Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen.
Hebrews 11:1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413428#413428
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 11/19/13 |
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Thank you, you are very gracious.
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
richard (at) bcchapel(dot)org
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen.
Hebrews 11:1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413639#413639
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Etherton" <ethertonr(at)webtv.net> |
I installed new tires on my Firestar and when putting the wheels on the axle I
notice they would not spin freely due to the brakes dragging. These are Azusa
wheels and the halves fit tightly together but I had to deflate the tires and
loosen the tie bolts then hit the halves with a rubber hammer to more align the
halves. With a little tapping they would spin freely.
--------
Bob E
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413644#413644
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Was wondering if any Kolb drivers have installed or know someone who runs a Rotax
670 built by Rotax Rick in Naples Florida?
Talked to him for an hour tonight picking his brain and need to talk to end users
to find out how theirs are working out.
Thanks
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim.baker(at)windstream.net |
http://ppcflyingforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8540
Can't get something for nothing.......
Jim Baker
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net>
Sent: Thu, 21 Nov 2013 19:53
Subject: Kolb-List: Rotax 670
Was wondering if any Kolb drivers have installed or know someone who runs a Rotax
670 built by Rotax Rick in Naples Florida?
Talked to him for an hour tonight picking his brain and need to talk to end users
to find out how theirs are working out.
Thanks
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Please Make A Contribution Today... |
Dear Listers,
A quick reminder that November is the annual List Fund Raiser and the List of Contributors
is quickly approching. The Matronics Lists are 100% member supported
and all of the operational costs are provided for by your Contributions during
this time of the year.
Your personal Contribution makes a big difference and keeps all of the Matronics
Email Lists and Forums completely ad-free.
Please make your Contribution today to keep these services up and running!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "alienwes" <elliott.wesley(at)yahoo.com> |
http://ppcflyingforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t-03
Sounds like Baron is pretty happy with it.
--------
Wesley Elliott
Sport Pilot-PPC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413846#413846
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Sounds like Baron is pretty happy with it.
--------
Wesley Elliott
Sport Pilot-PPC
That's based on a couple flights last summer.
Reckon he's still happy with it?
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Getting some good feedback on the 670. One PM from a Kolb driver with 50 hrs on
one that replaced his 582, so far he loves it. Has a ways to go before we know
if it makes the 300-400 hr life span we 2 stroke drivers have to live with but
it does perform to the claims of the builder so far.
Hopefully info will keep coming my way.
Waiting on more positive feedback or a good deal on a used 912.
Just don't have quite the climb or cruise I'd like to have from my 2si.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>
>
>
> Sounds like Baron is pretty happy with it.
>
> --------
> Wesley Elliott
> Sport Pilot-PPC
>
>
>
>
> That's based on a couple flights last summer.
>
> Reckon he's still happy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rodney Payne" <Rpayne4(at)stny.rr.com> |
I've been using my Rotax Rick 670 for 2 summers now and am really happy
with it. I get great performance, fuel burn and haven't had any problems. T
he motor looks and runs same now as it did when I got it.
Rodney Payne
Apalachin NY
2002 kolb Mark 3 xtra
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
I've been using my Rotax Rick 670 for 2 summers now and am really happy
with it. I get great performance, fuel burn and haven't had any problems.
The motor looks and runs same now as it did when I got it.
Rodney Payne
How many hours would that be?
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tombaisley" <tombaisley(at)yahoo.com> |
Rodney,
Here are some pics of the motorcycle you sold my son a few years ago
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=649516&highlight=fairbanks
I'm putting together a MKIIIc this winter with a grey 582, i might be looking to
upgrade in a year or so
Tom
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413899#413899
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [PLEASE READ] Why I Have A Fund Raiser... |
>From the beginning, the Matronics List and Forum experience has been free from
advertising. I have been approached by fair number of vendors wanting to tap
into the large volume of activity across the various lists hosted here, but have
always flatly refused. Everywhere you go on the Internet these days, a user
is pummeled with flashing banners and videos and ads for crap that they don't
want. Yahoo, Google and that elk are not "free". The user must constantly
endure their barrage of commercialism thrust into their face at an ever increasing
rate. Enough is enough, and the Lists at Matronics choose not to succumb
to that.
That being said, running a service of this size is not "free". It costs a lot
of money to maintain the hardware, pay for the electricity, air conditioning,
maintenance contracts, etc, etc. etc. I choose to hold a PBS-like fund raiser
each year during the month of November where I simply send out a short email
every other day asking the members to make a small contribution to support the
operation. That being said, that contribution is completely voluntary and non-compulsory.
Many members choose not to contribute and that's fine.
However, a very modest percentage of the members do choose to make a contribution
and it is that financial support that keeps the Lists running. And that's
it. To my way of thinking, it is a much more pleasant way of maintaining the
Lists and Forums. The other 11 months of the year, you don't see a single advertisement
or request for support. That's refreshing and that is a List and Forum
that I want to belong to. I think other people feel the same way.
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these
Lists?
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Please Make A Contribution Today... |
| From: | "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)wildblue.net> |
Is my contribution of $20 not good enough? This site is important to me, let me
know something....
--------
Rick Lewis
(VW Watercooled Engine)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414067#414067
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Please Make A Contribution Today... |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Must have slipped through the cracks Rick, I quit getting those messages as soon
as I sent my $20.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Nov 25, 2013, at 1:39 PM, "Rick Lewis" wrote:
>
>
> Is my contribution of $20 not good enough? This site is important to me, let
me know something....
>
> --------
> Rick Lewis
>
> (VW Watercooled Engine)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414067#414067
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Please Make A Contribution Today... |
| From: | "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)wildblue.net> |
That kinda makes me wonder if he ever even got my contribution then...maybe I'm
waisting my time, sure hope not....
--------
Rick Lewis
(VW Watercooled Engine)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414074#414074
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Please Make A Contribution Today... |
Is my contribution of $20 not good enough? This site is important to me,
let me know something....
--------
Rick Lewis
If you are concerned about your contribution, send Matt a back copy message
to his email address instead of the Kolb List. I doubt he reads every msg
posted to each of the many lists on Matronics.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Please Make A Contribution Today... |
| From: | "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)wildblue.net> |
yea I'm kinda wondering if he checks on these things also John.
--------
Rick Lewis
(VW Watercooled Engine)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414078#414078
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Please Make A Contribution Today... |
I can assure you Matt checks on "these things". Not necessarily "read every
message that comes across every message board in Matronics".
Shoot Matt a personal bc message about your concerns and he will respond.
Here's Matt's email: dralle(at)matronics.com
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Lewis
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 2:22 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Please Make A Contribution Today...
yea I'm kinda wondering if he checks on these things also John.
--------
Rick Lewis
(VW Watercooled Engine)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414078#414078
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Please Make A Contribution Today... |
| From: | "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)wildblue.net> |
Thanks John, I do feel better about this, didn't know that you knew him that well.
I never have seen my name on the list of contributers but that doesn't really
matter...
--------
Rick Lewis
(VW Watercooled Engine)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414088#414088
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Please Make A Contribution Today... |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Johns right,
I sent my contribution the same day Matt posted that there was some problems with
the list.
I replied to his post about the list being down asking if it affected my contribution
getting through and he replied promptly.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Nov 25, 2013, at 4:31 PM, "John Hauck" wrote:
>
>
> I can assure you Matt checks on "these things". Not necessarily "read every
> message that comes across every message board in Matronics".
>
> Shoot Matt a personal bc message about your concerns and he will respond.
>
> Here's Matt's email: dralle(at)matronics.com
> john h
> mkIII
> Titus, Alabama
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Lewis
> Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 2:22 PM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Please Make A Contribution Today...
>
>
> yea I'm kinda wondering if he checks on these things also John.
>
> --------
> Rick Lewis
>
> (VW Watercooled Engine)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414078#414078
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Please Make A Contribution Today... |
At 11:55 AM 11/25/2013 Monday, you wrote:
>
>That kinda makes me wonder if he ever even got my contribution then...maybe I'm
waisting my time, sure hope not....
>
>--------
>Rick Lewis
Hi Rick,
Your contribution was received, thank you! It is very much appreciated.
There are certain circumstances where you might still see a Contribution related
message. For example, if someone replies to one of the messages, when using
the List Browse feature, or when accessing List message via the Forum. The system
keys on the given email address and since most of these are anonymous public
access methods, there is no simple way to filter them.
Thank you again for your kind contribution!
Matt
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | 581 Jeannie Way | Livermore | CA | 94550
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Of Pencils & Airplanes [Repost From AeroElectric-List]... |
[Dear Listers, last week, Bob Nuckolls of the AeroElectric fame, posted a very
nice message discussing the Lists and Forums at Matronics. It is a very insightful
piece and I asked Bob if I could forward it to the rest of the Lists for
the other members to enjoy and contemplate as well. He gladly agreed, and so
below I have included the text from that message. Enjoy. -Matt Dralle, Matronics
Email List and Forum Administrator]
"As most of you know, Matt's ISP was fiddling with some crucial
details for the exchange of data on the 'net a few weeks ago.
The Lists, Matt's business site, and AeroElectric.com got really
flakey. . . I was 'unhooked' from the List and all of three of
my e-mail services for several days. Out of business and out
of touch.
After two days, I was beginning to worry. I had no idea as
to root cause nor was there a time table for resolution . . .
I began to mull over plan-B options. Of course, plan-B
would have entailed seeking a new home for aeroelectric.com and
ancillary services. NOT a quick, inexpensive or happy thing to
contemplate.
The time talents and resources that go into fabrication and
maintenance of some of the 'simplest' features of our lives often
go unnoticed . . . not because they're unappreciated . . . but simply
because we're unaware of their significance.
I will invite you all to read an essay by one Leonard Read written
in 1958 titled "I pencil". See:
http://tinyurl.com/me3q3hj
It's a fascinating and well crafted peek into a society of
unacquainted, self-interested individuals who exploited
uncountable windows of opportunity for what has
been called "spontaneous order" in the manufacture and sales
of the simple wood pencil. The point of citing Mr. Read's
essay is to examine two features of the human experience that
contribute to the success of this List and our various interests
in airplanes.
The first point I'd like to make is that we cannot know
the millions of individuals who contributed to the materials
and infrastructure that make this List possible. We sit at the
top of a pyramid of work-product derived from the time,
talents and resources of millions of people who we'll never
know.
Another feature I'd like to emphasis is our ignorance
of the criticality for any single component for a host
of materials and components for the manufacture and
sales of a simple pencil or an affordable airplane. Suppose
any one of the materials or processes described in Read's
essay were simply unavailable. How would that impact
the price of a pencil? Would the pencil even continue to
exist at it's new price? The really big question is, "How
might some seemingly small loss ripple throughout the
economy of our existence?"
The time, talent and resources that support infrastructure
for this List, my website, Matt's website, and our e-mails
cannot be accurately known. That infrastructure stands
on an exceedingly complex array of activities that arose
from the ingenuity and spontaneous organization of free-
market enterprises. But from our perch at the top of
this pyramid we need only look down a few layers and see that
this resource upon which we depend is vulnerable. There are
risks we all assume . . . Matt could get t-boned in an
intersection tomorrow. Lightning could strike the pole behind
his facility and do catastrophic damage to the hardware.
Yours truly could take a deer through the windshield on
his way to Wichita some morning.
Other risks are less catastrophic. They include things
like amateurish behaviors by maintainers of the Internet
highway's potholes. Perhaps some material critical to
the manufacture of terabyte hard drives dries up. Or
maybe the cost of keeping the lights on and the bytes
herded become more than Matt can justify given his personal
needs for existence.
Several times a year I get an opportunity to
plant new seeds of thought in the minds of fellow citizens.
One of my favorites is to be standing in a long line
at Panera's waiting to purchase a bagel and coffee and
hear somebody in line complaining about the
wait. I suggest to them that to wait in line for a
much desired product is a GOOD thing. Not having
to wait is a BAD thing if there is not enough business
to encourage them to be open tomorrow.
It goes without saying that few, if any of us, possess the
talents, resources or motivation to step up and do what
Matt does. At last count, there were about 1600 individuals
who subscribe to this List [Aeroelectric-List]. . .
certainly many more make up the population of subscribers
to all of the Lists on Matronics.
A few years back, Matt was besieged by legal trials
and tribulations over the naming of his products . . .
seems somebody claimed ownership of the words 'scan'
and/or 'scanner' . . . We here on the AeroElectric-List
perceived a risk to Matt's operations and came up with
several thousands of dollars to contribute to his defense
fund. We need make no greater 'investment' in Matt's
operations now than it takes to stand in a line for
a Quarter-Pounder Combo . . . or a fist full of pencils.
You and I can have no more positive influence over the
manufacture of pencils and hard drives than to continue
to purchase such things and encourage those with the
time, talent and resources to continue doing what they
do best.
Let's contribute to the comfortable maintenance of this
service which is probably more valuable than we know.
Just a little bit from thousands of us on the Matronics
Lists can make a big difference.
Bob . . ."
Please take a minute to make your Contribution today:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List and Forum Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Please Make A Contribution Today... |
| From: | "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)wildblue.net> |
Thanks Matt, we all appreciate the good work your doing. The forum is very important
us....
--------
Rick Lewis
(VW Watercooled Engine)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414177#414177
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Several years ago, Kolb sold off their last set of machined, tapered gear legs
for the MKIII, and I got them. Since the gear that was on the airplane was working
OK, left them on the shelf for years.
Took the MKIII apart last week and put it in the garage for a major going through
this winter, and since the aluminum tapered gear was a bit bent, decided it
was time to try the high-class gear.
Back when I put the original gear legs on, I aligned them by getting a straight
copper grounding rod from Lowe's and sticking it through the axle holes to get
the alignment 0-0. Always worked good, so did the new gear the same way. Stuck
the new legs in place, took a couple small bungees and strapped the same rod
in place, and got everything perfectly parallel. Scribed the new legs by poking
a scribe through the gear leg socket holes. (If you don't have machinist's
bluing, a fresh Magic Marker works just as good)
Took it to a local machine shop and told them to make the hole start exactly at
the scribed hole mark on one side, and come out exactly through the middle or
the scribed hole mark on the other side.
They did it. $20.
WOOT!
Time to get to work. (Thanks, Travis!)
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
richard (at) bcchapel(dot)org
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen.
Hebrews 11:1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414218#414218
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/gearleg_102.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Gear Legs |
| From: | "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)wildblue.net> |
That looks like a good way to align the gear. I used a laser pointer shooting
to a target on the wall and compared each side with the center line of the fuselage.
Your way seems just as accurate and much easier...Thanks....
--------
Rick Lewis
(VW Watercooled Engine)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414222#414222
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Gear Legs |
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
What I don't know is - the stiffer aluminum solid gear has almost no flex. This
thing will probably be flexible. So that may make things very different. Who
knows!
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
richard (at) bcchapel(dot)org
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen.
Hebrews 11:1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414225#414225
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b young" <byoungplumbing(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Gear Legs |
it was all the flex that caused the jackhammer ride..... I went from 2 de
g, ( 1 deg per side) down to 0 deg... and it would shake hard enough t
o make me think the dental work on my top teeth would end up in the bottom
row.... I had to bend some toe in back in... as I remember it was around
1.2 deg total... .6 on each side. to make it ride smooth.
the way I tested was the wheels on a skid plate, an angle sheet metal acr
oss the back of both tires, and a carpenter square along the sheet metal,
to the side of the wheel. check the photos. if you have any questions, l
et me know.
boyd
mkiii utah
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Pike
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2013 6:58 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: New Gear Legs
What I don't know is - the stiffer aluminum solid gear has almost no flex.
This thing will probably be flexible. So that may make things very differen
t. Who knows!
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
richard (at) bcchapel(dot)org
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not
seen.
Hebrews 11:1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414225#414225
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| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Make Sure You're Listed! List of Contributors Coming Soon! |
Dear Listers,
There's just a few more days left in this year's List Fund Raiser and that means
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New Gear Legs |
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
The pictures make perfect sense, thanks for that. How did you bend the gear legs
a little at a time until you got the desired toe in? I have a tubing bender
- or did you slip a pipe over the axles and armstrong it?
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
richard (at) bcchapel(dot)org
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen.
Hebrews 11:1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414320#414320
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Green <bgreen(at)bimi.org> |
| Subject: | Kolb-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 11/26/13 |
Boyd, How did you bend the legs/axles to get the result you wanted?
Bob
MKIIIX
N830PB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Gear Legs |
The pictures make perfect sense, thanks for that. How did you bend the gear
legs a little at a time until you got the desired toe in? I have a tubing
bender - or did you slip a pipe over the axles and armstrong it?
--------
Richard Pike
I've had good luck bending with a long section of water pipe slipped over
the axle. Of course you have to support the main gear where you want to
make the correction.
Happy Thanksgiving to all the Kolbers out there. You all are a special
family of special builders and flyers.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b young" <byoungplumbing(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New Gear Legs, |
Richard and others
my son bought a pipe / tube bender so he could fabricate roll cages for his
and friends jeeps he has fabricated bunk beds for the kids, it is a hea
vy duty bender,,, it is floor mounted with 4, 1/2 inch bolts into concr
ete. it has replaceable dies that fit in the center and on the moveable a
rm that fit the diameter of the material you are bending. there is also a
plate that is marked in degrees that can be rotated to any position, it ha
s a little friction plate so it stays put while you are bending. and it h
as a fixed pointer that hovers over the degree plate. after placing t
he gear in the bender at the position needed to correct the problems. I ad
just the degree plate to zero under the pointer, then proceed to bend. be
cause it is spring steel. you have to try in small increments then relax
and see if the steel has bent or only sprung then returned to normal. it
seems that I had to take the gear to 10 to 12 degrees past where I wanted
it to be in order to get the gear to bend, anything less than that and it w
ould spring back to the starting point. 1/4 to 1/2 would have been conside
red a very large bend.... most of the bends I did was under a quarter of a
deg. while trying, I would pull the bender to increasing number of d
egrees past where I needed it to be. and then relax in between. until it
did not return all the way to zero on the pointer and plate. the increasin
g number would increase by very small amounts, once I kind of figured out
how much past I needed to go... it was quicker on subsequent bends as I k
new where permanent change to the gear would start to happen... so I coul
d sneak up on the amount of movement needed quicker in order to get the ben
d I wanted. finally when I got to the end and I figured I needed 1/10t
h of 1 deg it was tricky, that is not a lot of bend,,, and if you go to
far, you have to bend it back..... every time I would get noticeable chan
ge in the gear, I would re install and measure again,,, when I was close
I would then take it for a hi speed taxi or short flight to see how it turn
ed out. the gear comes out of the gear socket down to a bend just where th
e brake mounts, and the wheel fits on.... I did all the bends in the 6 in
ches or so just up from the factory bend. where the steel was small in dia
meter in comparison to the area just outside of the gear socket.
in my humble opinion... the factory bend, at least in my gear was too much
, when I had the plane on stands and was installing the gear, the camber a
ngle of the wheels looked real good. when I put the weight of the cage on
the gear it still looked good. but when I mounted the 912, the gear starte
d looking squatty. and when me and a passenger got in,,, the gear looked a
s if I had landed too hard and bent the gear.
when I got finished, I could take off and land without the oscillations
fore and aft that would give a jackhammer ride. and I could inflate the t
ires without the plane wanting to veer all over the runway.
all the measurements were made with the wheels on a grease plate, I was t
oo cheap to buy aluminum plates to put grease in between.... so I used som
e pieces of floor tile. if I rolled the wheel on the floor tile... someti
mes it would break off the edges of the tile... so I had to jack up the wh
eel and place the floor tile under the wheel. it was amazing how much mov
ement there is in the gear with the wheel on the grease plate. don
=99t try the adjustments with the wheel on the floor, there is too much f
riction and it would be extremely hard if not impossible to get where you w
ant to be.
if I was going to install gear again.... I would use the strait edge metho
d with a carpenter square with both wheels on grease plates. to keep the g
ear from going too far into the gear sockets, I would put in a piece of woo
d dowel in the gear socket followed by the gear. I would do all this with
the engine mounted, and a hundred pound of wheat in both seats.
I am going to my sons for thanks giving, and could take pictures of his pi
pe bender if you would like.
boyd young
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Pike
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 6:56 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: New Gear Legs
The pictures make perfect sense, thanks for that. How did you bend the gea
r legs a little at a time until you got the desired toe in? I have a tubing
bender - or did you slip a pipe over the axles and armstrong it?
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
richard (at) bcchapel(dot)org
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not
seen.
Hebrews 11:1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414320#414320
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b young" <byoungplumbing(at)gmail.com> |
Richard and others
I just visited Google and did a search on pipe benders, my son=99s
pipe bender looks very similar to this one, but his has two of the saw
tooth ratchet arms, one arm is fixed and the other attaches to the actuati
ng arm. they are set up so with one pull of the actuating arm you only move
things one tooth,, but with the second arm... you can hold tension on the
piece while you moved the primary arm to a new notch , then pull again.
as I remember he told me that it would bend up to 1 1/2 inch solid steel r
od. I cant see the fixed pointer in this photo. but it lines up just above
the bottom plate marked off in degrees.
boyd
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Introducing myself--help needed. |
| From: | "lownslow" <mnmcouillard(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi friends, I am the recent new owner of a Mk IIIC project that I am in the process
of completing, so I want to introduce myself to this list and say hi! I
am in Colorado Springs and am installing a Rotax Rick 670 due to the higher field
elevations out here. (I was very interested in the post I just read on the
670, posted earlier this month). Being a newbie, I feel I have lot's to learn,
and remain very "teachable". I hope to have the project flying within the
next 3 to 6 months.
22 years of Air Force flying, laid it to rest for a number of years and now have
the itch again! I'm excited about the aircraft and about the community that
I find here. Seems everyone is really enjoying the flying and the commeraderie.
How many of you are flying Kolbs in the mountains--just curious what advice you
may have.
Has anyone put together a POH of sorts? I am unaware of anything available through
Kolb, but maybe I'm wrong about that? (I'm guessing most people put something
together as a result of their Phase I test period but it would be nice to
have a starting point.)
The critical question: I have most photos from the previous owner builder's log
but he was unable to locate pictures of the early construction of the cage and
tail boom. I'm wondering if it might be possible to replace those with some
generic pictures to complete my builder's log. My aircraft has a white painted
cage structure. I would be very grateful.
thanks so much
Mike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414361#414361
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Introducing myself--help needed. |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Welcome aboard Mike,
Will be interested in following your progress on your Mk 3. Also look forward to
learning more about your engine installation.
You will want to get some dual in a Mk-3 or a Kolbra to adjust yourself to the
low inertia high drag world we Kolbers operate in. Our birds may be slow, but
things happen fast in them.
Enjoy your project, and enjoy the list. If you check the archives we had a thread
recently on the POH, I believe I posted pics of the front and back of the checklist
sheet I made for my bird. Also got some solid suggestions for adjustments
to it. If you can't find it, hopefully someone better at using the archives
can dig it up. ;-)
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 2SI690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Nov 27, 2013, at 6:07 PM, "lownslow" wrote:
>
>
> Hi friends, I am the recent new owner of a Mk IIIC project that I am in the process
of completing, so I want to introduce myself to this list and say hi!
I am in Colorado Springs and am installing a Rotax Rick 670 due to the higher
field elevations out here. (I was very interested in the post I just read on
the 670, posted earlier this month). Being a newbie, I feel I have lot's to learn,
and remain very "teachable". I hope to have the project flying within the
next 3 to 6 months.
>
> 22 years of Air Force flying, laid it to rest for a number of years and now have
the itch again! I'm excited about the aircraft and about the community that
I find here. Seems everyone is really enjoying the flying and the commeraderie.
>
> How many of you are flying Kolbs in the mountains--just curious what advice you
may have.
>
> Has anyone put together a POH of sorts? I am unaware of anything available through
Kolb, but maybe I'm wrong about that? (I'm guessing most people put something
together as a result of their Phase I test period but it would be nice
to have a starting point.)
>
> The critical question: I have most photos from the previous owner builder's
log but he was unable to locate pictures of the early construction of the cage
and tail boom. I'm wondering if it might be possible to replace those with some
generic pictures to complete my builder's log. My aircraft has a white painted
cage structure. I would be very grateful.
>
> thanks so much
>
> Mike
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414361#414361
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kolb Mk3 POH/checklist |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Mike,
Here is the front and back sides of my laminated sheets. These passed my air
worthiness inspection as a POH. My engine is single ignition so you will hav
e to edit in your dual ignition check, and you may not want to turn on your E
IS (if you use one) until after the engine is started to avoid inductive spi
kes from the starter motor and solenoid coil that could harm your electronic
s.
I hope this helps.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Mk3 POH/checklist |
| From: | "lownslow" <mnmcouillard(at)yahoo.com> |
awesome! thanks Denny! I appreciate it
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414368#414368
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Introducing myself--help needed. |
On 11/27/2013 5:07 PM, lownslow wrote:
>
> Hi friends, I am the recent new owner of a Mk IIIC project that I am in the process
of completing, so I want to introduce myself to this list and say hi!
I am in Colorado Springs and am installing a Rotax Rick 670 due to the higher
field elevations out here. (I was very interested in the post I just read on
the 670, posted earlier this month). Being a newbie, I feel I have lot's to learn,
and remain very "teachable". I hope to have the project flying within the
next 3 to 6 months.
>
> 22 years of Air Force flying, laid it to rest for a number of years and now have
the itch again! I'm excited about the aircraft and about the community that
I find here. Seems everyone is really enjoying the flying and the commeraderie.
>
> How many of you are flying Kolbs in the mountains--just curious what advice you
may have.
>
> Has anyone put together a POH of sorts? I am unaware of anything available through
Kolb, but maybe I'm wrong about that? (I'm guessing most people put something
together as a result of their Phase I test period but it would be nice
to have a starting point.)
>
> The critical question: I have most photos from the previous owner builder's
log but he was unable to locate pictures of the early construction of the cage
and tail boom. I'm wondering if it might be possible to replace those with some
generic pictures to complete my builder's log. My aircraft has a white painted
cage structure. I would be very grateful.
>
> thanks so much
>
> Mike
Did the previous builder keep notes during that phase of the build? Pics
aren't required.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Introducing myself--help needed. |
| From: | "lownslow" <mnmcouillard(at)yahoo.com> |
wow, didn't know that.....
that's good news; the builder kept good notes in a word document that I was going
to upload into kitlog pro, but I'm wondering if that's worth my time
thanks!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414380#414380
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Introducing myself--help needed. |
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
lownslow wrote:
> wow, didn't know that.....
>
> that's good news; the builder kept good notes in a word document that I was going
to upload into kitlog pro, but I'm wondering if that's worth my time
>
> thanks!
If they are in Word, hit print and put them in a binder. That is more than enough
documentation.
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
richard (at) bcchapel(dot)org
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen.
Hebrews 11:1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414385#414385
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Introducing myself--help needed. |
I have had the privelage of standing by when an airplane was inspected
by an Faa employee....She simply said" did you build it?" "Its
experimental...so I guess you did?" "what is it called?"
and with that...she did whatever paper work that was required.... The
truth was...my bud had no builders log...for he had assembled the plane
from two or three projects that he bought along the way...
In another situation ..a friend bought a plane and did some finish
work...mostly paint and instruments......The airline pilot Dar created
some impossible tasks to make the plane certifiable...and after some
months ...my bud found another Dar who signed it off in two hours...
My impression is...that if the DAR's occupation depends on the good
graces of the FAA...then give him a pass and shop for another ...Ask
around , they are out there..Herb
On 11/28/2013 06:04 PM, Larry Cottrell wrote:
> I suppose that a lot of what is required depends on the examiner. It
> may have even changed since I had mine in for registration. I had a
> POH, he didn't even look at it or want it. Builders log was a similar
> nonevent. The fact that I had one was all he cared about. He was very
> interested in the safety factor of the build, and not much else. The
> anticipation of all that could go wrong was much much more than the
> actual fact. Perhaps you could find someone who had used the guy or
> the office where the inspection would take place, and get some idea of
> what to expect. I would suspect that you are much harder on yourself
> than what the examiner will be. Mine was a paid examiner, not an
> actual FAA employee.
>
> Having all the above in mind I would be as prepared as I could be, but
> I wouldn't obsess over it.
>
> Good Luck
> Larry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Just Two Days Left... |
Dear Listers,
There are just a couple days left for this year's List Fund Raiser. If you've
been putting off making a Contribution until the last minute, well, this is it!
The last minute, that is... :-) There are some GREAT new gift selections to
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Please remember that there isn't any sort of commercial advertising on the Lists
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Please make a Contribution today!
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Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
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581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Introducing myself--help needed. |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
It must be my locality, being so close to the Air Capital of the World, but
both the DAR I used for my trike, the Mk 3, and the Firestar, and the FAA
inspector who did the Cumulus were all equally thorough. Since I was
bringing previously built aircraft into the system under the LSA
grandfathering clause of FAR 21.191(i)1 I didn't have to have a builder
log, but they each spent about an hour going over the aircraft and another
30 minutes on the paperwork, so it appears the advice to shop around for a
DAR is good. Since they charge upwards of $200 just to show up, I'd suggest
contacting your local EAA chapter as well as other builders in your area to
find a DAR who will give you a thorough inspection without getting hung up
in subjective minutae.
Rick Girard
On Thu, Nov 28, 2013 at 6:55 PM, herb wrote:
>
> I have had the privelage of standing by when an airplane was inspected by
> an Faa employee....She simply said" did you build it?" "Its
> experimental...so I guess you did?" "what is it called?"
>
> and with that...she did whatever paper work that was required.... The
> truth was...my bud had no builders log...for he had assembled the plane
> from two or three projects that he bought along the way...
>
> In another situation ..a friend bought a plane and did some finish
> work...mostly paint and instruments......The airline pilot Dar created
> some impossible tasks to make the plane certifiable...and after some months
> ...my bud found another Dar who signed it off in two hours...
>
> My impression is...that if the DAR's occupation depends on the good
> graces of the FAA...then give him a pass and shop for another ...Ask around
> , they are out there..Herb
>
>
> On 11/28/2013 06:04 PM, Larry Cottrell wrote:
>
>> I suppose that a lot of what is required depends on the examiner. It may
>> have even changed since I had mine in for registration. I had a POH, he
>> didn't even look at it or want it. Builders log was a similar nonevent. The
>> fact that I had one was all he cared about. He was very interested in the
>> safety factor of the build, and not much else. The anticipation of all that
>> could go wrong was much much more than the actual fact. Perhaps you could
>> find someone who had used the guy or the office where the inspection would
>> take place, and get some idea of what to expect. I would suspect that you
>> are much harder on yourself than what the examiner will be. Mine was a paid
>> examiner, not an actual FAA employee.
>>
>> Having all the above in mind I would be as prepared as I could be, but I
>> wouldn't obsess over it.
>>
>> Good Luck
>> Larry
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Introducing myself--help needed. |
| From: | "lownslow" <mnmcouillard(at)yahoo.com> |
very helpful thread! thanks for all the discussion!
Hope everyone had a great thanksgiving!
Mike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414518#414518
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Introducing myself--help needed. |
| From: | "lownslow" <mnmcouillard(at)yahoo.com> |
Denny mentioned the wisdom in getting some dual in a Kolb, and I agree, a great
idea. Does anyone know of a Kolb close to Colorado where I might do that? Or
maybe catch someone at a Kolb flyin. I need to find out when those happen.
Sun'n Fun would be ideal, but I was hoping to fly mine before then....
Thanks everyone!
Mike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414520#414520
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | [Please Read] - Last Official Day of List Fund Raiser! |
Dear Listers,
It's November 30th and that always means a couple of things. Its my birthday again;
the big 50, in fact! But it also means that it's that last official day
of the Matronics Email List Fund Raiser! If you been thinking about picking
up one of those really nice incentive gifts now is the time to jump on it!!
If you've been meaning to make a Contribution this month but have been putting
it off for some reason, NOW is the time!
I will be posting the List of Contributors in a few days, so you'll probably want
to be known as a person that supported the Lists!
I want to thank everyone that has so generously made a Contribution this year in
support of our Lists. It is your generosity that keeps this operation running
and I don't ever forget it.
The List Contribution Web Site is fast and easy. Please support our habit by making
your Contribution right now:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, by dropping a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
Thank you to all in advance!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fwd:Mk-3 616DR POH |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Ok guys, here is a PDF of my POH/checklist. Hope it's useful to someone.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
Begin forwarded message:
> From: "M.D. Mainhart" <mdmainhart123(at)gmail.com>
> Date: December 1, 2013 at 9:20:02 PM EST
> To: rowedenny(at)windstream.net
> Subject: Diabetes
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Firestar avialable |
| From: | "Guideman" <Birdfever(at)msn.com> |
Do you still have your Firestar and if so how much are you asking for it. Also
do you have pictures and where are you located
Guideman
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414760#414760
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Firestar avialable |
| From: | "Guideman" <Birdfever(at)msn.com> |
Do you still have your Firestar and if so how much are you asking for it. Also
do you have pictures and where are you located
Guideman
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414761#414761
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Firestar avialable |
| From: | "Guideman" <Birdfever(at)msn.com> |
Do you still have your Firestar and if so how much are you asking for it. Also
do you have pictures and where are you located
Guideman
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414762#414762
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Smith" <kirk.smith(at)frontier.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Firestar avialable |
I still have it but have decided to wait until Spring to put it back on the
market.
-----Original Message-----
From: Guideman
Sent: Monday, December 02, 2013 11:25 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Kolb Firestar avialable
Do you still have your Firestar and if so how much are you asking for it.
Also do you have pictures and where are you located
Guideman
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414762#414762
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb Firestar avialable |
| From: | "tombaisley" <tombaisley(at)yahoo.com> |
I do not know anything about this airplane, just happened to see it listed
http://elmira.craigslist.org/for/4195977972.html
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414770#414770
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
I recently approached my friend and co-owner of my Mk 3 about my desire to upgrade
to a used 912 to improve our take-off performance. Due to his busy business
schedule, he has only rode in the Kolb twice with me in the 10 years it has
been in operation, and only participated in the construction as a financial partner.
I did 100% of the build and also hanger and fly it from my home.
Not surprisingly he asked instead if I was interested in buying him out. Of course
I am, but this unexpected expense, as well as doubling of my share of a new
engine has eliminated any chance of me affording a 912 setup any time soon.
Enter plan B.
Have decided to build a 670cc Rotax sled engine into an 85hp aircraft engine.
I'll be relying on Rotax Rick to do the bottom end as there is extensive machine
work on the PTO end of the crankshaft as well as the cases to make it work with
the aircraft gearbox and to fit the 582 ceramic water pump seal. The top end
and cooling system I'll handle.
Will also be using Ricks 618 style exhaust to insure the power delivery is smoothed
out for our application.
Also helping to make this a more affordable installation is the ability to use
the same prop from my current engine as well as all the probes and EIS unit. Additionally
I'll also use two of the three Bing carbs from my 2SI engine as I
swapped them out for 28mm Mikunis a couple years ago. Should be a very straight
forward swap, and using the same prop is going to make it clear how much more
power the new engine has over my 690.
My 690 has been a 'SMOOTH', solid engine and performs fine other than the gearbox
being incessantly leaky, but flying out of my 600 foot strip in the middle
of the woods makes me desire more climb performance.
The engine core is on it's way from a sled salvage outfit as I type.
Let the discussion commence.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Change of plans |
| From: | kinne russ <russk50(at)gmail.com> |
Dennis, THANK YOU for sharing your experiences & future ones as well. That will
be enormously helpful to the List;
this sort of thing is what it's all about
Fair winds & happy 670cc-ing
Russ
On Dec 4, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Dennis Rowe wrote:
>
> I recently approached my friend and co-owner of my Mk 3 about my desire to upgrade
to a used 912 to improve our take-off performance. Due to his busy business
schedule, he has only rode in the Kolb twice with me in the 10 years it has
been in operation, and only participated in the construction as a financial
partner. I did 100% of the build and also hanger and fly it from my home.
> Not surprisingly he asked instead if I was interested in buying him out. Of course
I am, but this unexpected expense, as well as doubling of my share of a
new engine has eliminated any chance of me affording a 912 setup any time soon.
> Enter plan B.
> Have decided to build a 670cc Rotax sled engine into an 85hp aircraft engine.
> I'll be relying on Rotax Rick to do the bottom end as there is extensive machine
work on the PTO end of the crankshaft as well as the cases to make it work
with the aircraft gearbox and to fit the 582 ceramic water pump seal. The top
end and cooling system I'll handle.
> Will also be using Ricks 618 style exhaust to insure the power delivery is smoothed
out for our application.
> Also helping to make this a more affordable installation is the ability to use
the same prop from my current engine as well as all the probes and EIS unit.
Additionally I'll also use two of the three Bing carbs from my 2SI engine as
I swapped them out for 28mm Mikunis a couple years ago. Should be a very straight
forward swap, and using the same prop is going to make it clear how much more
power the new engine has over my 690.
> My 690 has been a 'SMOOTH', solid engine and performs fine other than the gearbox
being incessantly leaky, but flying out of my 600 foot strip in the middle
of the woods makes me desire more climb performance.
> The engine core is on it's way from a sled salvage outfit as I type.
> Let the discussion commence.
>
> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Change of plans |
| From: | "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)wildblue.net> |
I can feel your pain for the lousy partnership in your Kolb. I went through the
same situation with a partner. Building an aircraft with a partner does not
work, does not work.....will never do it again....
--------
Rick Lewis
(VW Watercooled Engine)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414866#414866
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Change of plans |
| From: | "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)wildblue.net> |
I can feel your pain for the lousy partnership in your Kolb. I went through the
same situation with a partner. Building an aircraft with a partner does not
work, does not work.....will never do it again....
--------
Rick Lewis
(VW Watercooled Engine)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414868#414868
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Will Ricketts <agramjak(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Change of plans |
My experience is: works great, really bad, works great. Afraid to try it again,
seems like really bad is next
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 4, 2013, at 6:43 PM, "Rick Lewis" wrote:
>
>
> I can feel your pain for the lousy partnership in your Kolb. I went through
the same situation with a partner. Building an aircraft with a partner does not
work, does not work.....will never do it again....
>
> --------
> Rick Lewis
>
> (VW Watercooled Engine)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414868#414868
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Change of plans |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Guys,
Didn't mean to give the impression I have been unhappy with my Kolb co-owner. Even
though I did all the building and maintenance, I enjoyed it and since it was
my third aircraft build, I had strong ideas of how I wanted to do things. Also
basing it at my home made it seem like I was the sole owner. since I was
doing all the flying anyway, I haven't even asked him for any $ toward upgrades
such as the carb conversion and other upgrades I've done. Which means my buy
out cost has not gone up in 6 years :-)
Jay was a low maintenance partner. Also was nice to have only half the financial
burden during that building period when money was tight. I am blessed to have
at least four friends who I wouldn't hesitate to partner in an airplane with.
In fact two of them are my current partners in our 1948 Cessna 170 project and
my outgoing Kolb partner Jay Swager is another. You meet the nicest people
at airports.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Dec 4, 2013, at 8:11 PM, Will Ricketts wrote:
>
>
> My experience is: works great, really bad, works great. Afraid to try it again,
seems like really bad is next
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Dec 4, 2013, at 6:43 PM, "Rick Lewis" wrote:
>>
>>
>> I can feel your pain for the lousy partnership in your Kolb. I went through
the same situation with a partner. Building an aircraft with a partner does
not work, does not work.....will never do it again....
>>
>> --------
>> Rick Lewis
>>
>> (VW Watercooled
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Change of plans |
| From: | "Carolina Flyer" <joe.a.lawson(at)gmail.com> |
Dennis,
Good luck with your 670 build. I know Rick real well, and I am sure he will
do a good job doing the Machine work for you. I have two 670's myself, but I have
decided that a Rotax 618 has plenty of enough ponies for my Firestar II
The 618 I have needs to be rebuilt and I plan on having Rick do the work for me.
I was real lucky this summer to find a Brand New 618 exhaust on E-Bay, it has
never been used. I also plan on letting Rick doing a 670 for me as I plan to
have a Two Place side by side one day. Hopefully it will be a Mark III Extra
or a stretched avid flyer.
Anyway keep us informed on your Progress
--------
Kolb Firestar II
503 C-Box / RK400
Soon to have a
Rotax 670 DCDI
with a C-Box and
RK 400 Clutch
Challenger II
503 Tall Drive
Location : Buffalo South Carolina
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414876#414876
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_940.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Change of plans |
| From: | "Carolina Flyer" <joe.a.lawson(at)gmail.com> |
Just some info that some may not know. All 670's that Rotax made are not a good
candidate's to be converted for aviation use. That is if you want Dual Ignition.
and some are not easily made to be provision 8. Their are 2 years that are
preferred the 93 and 94 model year. If the 670 has a black rubber cover on the
Mag end then you will not be able to have it become Dual Ignition
Many people think that Rotax was planning on making the 670 into an aviation engine
like they did with the 617 that became a 618. If they did it would have been
competition for the 912.
here is a picture of the early model PTO end, that can be made to accept a
c-box or e-box. you could even use a b-box but I think it would not hold up to
all the extra HP
--------
Kolb Firestar II
503 C-Box / RK400
Soon to have a
Rotax 670 DCDI
with a C-Box and
RK 400 Clutch
Challenger II
503 Tall Drive
Location : Buffalo South Carolina
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414878#414878
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_981.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Green <bgreen(at)bimi.org> |
| Subject: | RE: Kolb-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 12/04/13 |
Skid: Have you given any thought to a Great Plains VW engine for you plane? The
2180 with re-drive should give you 100 hp for take-off and about 70-80 for
cruise.
It is already beefed up in the crank and other areas of significance.
I do not want to obligate the folk at GPAS by stating a price but my brand new
engine built by Steve at GPAS with re-drive was less than what the Rotax two stroke,
two cyl was.
My engine is a four cyl. four stroke air-cooled with dual ignition,starter, alternator,
etc.
Just a thought.
Bob Green
MKIIIX
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Change of plans |
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Carolina Flyer wrote:
> Dennis,
> Good luck with your 670 build. I know Rick real well, and I am sure he will
> do a good job doing the Machine work for you. I have two 670's myself, but I
have decided that a Rotax 618 has plenty of enough ponies for my Firestar II
> The 618 I have needs to be rebuilt and I plan on having Rick do the work for
me. I was real lucky this summer to find a Brand New 618 exhaust on E-Bay, it
has never been used. I also plan on letting Rick doing a 670 for me as I plan
to have a Two Place side by side one day. Hopefully it will be a Mark III Extra
> or a stretched avid flyer.
>
> Anyway keep us informed on your Progress
Noticed that you are thinking of going big block on your FSII: feel free to contact
me if you need any ideas or pictures of how we added structure to beef up
the upper fuselage. Back before we began our conversion, Kolb was concerned about
the extra torque from the bigger engine being a potentially serious problem
for the stock tubing.
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
richard (at) bcchapel(dot)org
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen.
Hebrews 11:1
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414909#414909
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Change of plans |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Richard offers some sound advice, a 582 or 618 is really getting up there for a
Firestar 2. Careful throttle control is highly advised.
Further clarification of the non 93-94 Rotax 670 engine cases that are not dual
Ducati ignition compatible and possibly not provision 8 compatible. If there
is a big hole in the top of the Magneto end housing that may have a black plastic
cover over it, the Ducati ignition will not bolt up.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Dec 5, 2013, at 10:37 AM, "Richard Pike" wrote:
>
>
>
> Carolina Flyer wrote:
>> Dennis,
>> Good luck with your 670 build. I know Rick real well, and I am sure he will
>> do a good job doing the Machine work for you. I have two 670's myself, but I
have decided that a Rotax 618 has plenty of enough ponies for my Firestar II
>> The 618 I have needs to be rebuilt and I plan on having Rick do the work for
me. I was real lucky this summer to find a Brand New 618 exhaust on E-Bay, it
has never been used. I also plan on letting Rick doing a 670 for me as I plan
to have a Two Place side by side one day. Hopefully it will be a Mark III Extra
>> or a stretched avid flyer.
>>
>> Anyway keep us informed on your Progress
>
>
> Noticed that you are thinking of going big block on your FSII: feel free to contact
me if you need any ideas or pictures of how we added structure to beef
up the upper fuselage. Back before we began our conversion, Kolb was concerned
about the extra torque from the bigger engine being a potentially serious problem
for the stock tubing.
>
> --------
> Richard Pike
> Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> richard (at) bcchapel(dot)org
> Kingsport, TN 3TN0
> Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen.
> Hebrews 11:1
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414909#414909
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: Kolb-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 12/04/13 |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Bob,
I have a local friend, "Roger Sell" who is nearing completion of an Xtra with the
GP/Valley Engineering set up. Very nice indeed. Should be a hot performer.
Really looking forward to trying it out next summer.
My fuselage is 1991 vintage and is not modified for the VW engine. I am also a
weight freak and am pretty confident I'll keep my weight within 10 pounds of the
475 pounds my bird weighs with it's current powerplant. The 85+ hp the 670
offers should be more than ample to hurl my light Mk-3 into the sky at a satisfying
clip. It also should make 65-70 hp in the lower 5k rpm range which will
give me a solid 65-70 mph economy cruise. As I am doing some of the work myself,
reusing my instrumentation and propeller, and starting off with the stock
single ignition, I should be able to keep the total close to $5k. If it's over
that, wifeys going to crap! Ok, she'll crap even if it's under. ;-)
Anyhow, this option offers me the easiest path to a 85hp and should it not work
out, swapping back to my 2SI will be a one day project. Can't beat that with
a stick.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Dec 5, 2013, at 7:58 AM, Bob Green wrote:
>
>
> Skid: Have you given any thought to a Great Plains VW engine for you plane?
The 2180 with re-drive should give you 100 hp for take-off and about 70-80 for
cruise.
> It is already beefed up in the crank and other areas of significance.
> I do not want to obligate the folk at GPAS by stating a price but my brand new
engine built by Steve at GPAS with re-drive was less than what the Rotax two
stroke, two cyl was.
> My engine is a four cyl. four stroke air-cooled with dual ignition,starter, alternator,
etc.
> Just a thought.
> Bob Green
> MKIIIX
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Change of plans |
| From: | "Carolina Flyer" <joe.a.lawson(at)gmail.com> |
Hello Richard Pike,
In regards to strengthening the cage for the additional torque of a 618. I called
the Kolb Factory and they told me I should talk to Denise Jackson
(The Factory's Welder) and him and I discussed this matter and I am going to use
his advice. I am having the modification done this winter once deer
season is over. I do not Hunt but the Welder that does all of my Welding for me
is a Deer Hunter. Once the Modification has been completed I will post some
Pictures.
Joe
--------
Kolb Firestar II
503 C-Box / RK400
Soon to have a
Rotax 670 DCDI
with a C-Box and
RK 400 Clutch
Challenger II
503 Tall Drive
Location : Buffalo South Carolina
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414924#414924
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Rotary valve oil reservoir. |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Does anyone have a Rotax rotary valve oil reservoir from a Rotax twin or a suitable
substitution?
I need one for my 670 project.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 12/05/13 |
| From: | Ted Cowan <tc1917(at)bellsouth.net> |
Yeah i have. I will check it out and post back to you. Tedcowan
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 6, 2013, at 2:01 AM, Kolb-List Digest Server wrote:
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete Kolb-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the Kolb-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 13-12-05&Archive=Kolb
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 13-12-05&Archive=Kolb
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Kolb-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Thu 12/05/13: 6
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 04:59 AM - Re: Kolb-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 12/04/13 (Bob Green)
> 2. 07:38 AM - Re: Change of plans (Richard Pike)
> 3. 08:31 AM - Re: Re: Change of plans (Dennis Rowe)
> 4. 09:04 AM - Re: Re: Kolb-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 12/04/13 (Dennis Rowe)
> 5. 09:17 AM - Re: Change of plans (Carolina Flyer)
> 6. 10:38 AM - Rotary valve oil reservoir. (Dennis Rowe)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: Bob Green <bgreen(at)bimi.org>
> Subject: Kolb-List: RE: Kolb-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 12/04/13
>
>
> Skid: Have you given any thought to a Great Plains VW engine for you plane?
The
> 2180 with re-drive should give you 100 hp for take-off and about 70-80 for
> cruise.
> It is already beefed up in the crank and other areas of significance.
> I do not want to obligate the folk at GPAS by stating a price but my brand new
> engine built by Steve at GPAS with re-drive was less than what the Rotax two
stroke,
> two cyl was.
> My engine is a four cyl. four stroke air-cooled with dual ignition,starter, alternator,
> etc.
> Just a thought.
> Bob Green
> MKIIIX
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Change of plans
> From: "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org>
>
>
>
> Carolina Flyer wrote:
>> Dennis,
>> Good luck with your 670 build. I know Rick real well, and I am sure he will
>
>> do a good job doing the Machine work for you. I have two 670's myself, but I
> have decided that a Rotax 618 has plenty of enough ponies for my Firestar II
>> The 618 I have needs to be rebuilt and I plan on having Rick do the work for
> me. I was real lucky this summer to find a Brand New 618 exhaust on E-Bay, it
> has never been used. I also plan on letting Rick doing a 670 for me as I plan
> to have a Two Place side by side one day. Hopefully it will be a Mark III Extra
>> or a stretched avid flyer.
>>
>> Anyway keep us informed on your Progress
>
>
> Noticed that you are thinking of going big block on your FSII: feel free to contact
> me if you need any ideas or pictures of how we added structure to beef up
> the upper fuselage. Back before we began our conversion, Kolb was concerned about
> the extra torque from the bigger engine being a potentially serious problem
> for the stock tubing.
>
> --------
> Richard Pike
> Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> richard (at) bcchapel(dot)org
> Kingsport, TN 3TN0
> Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen.
>
> Hebrews 11:1
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414909#414909
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Change of plans
> From: Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net>
>
>
> Richard offers some sound advice, a 582 or 618 is really getting up there for
a
> Firestar 2. Careful throttle control is highly advised.
> Further clarification of the non 93-94 Rotax 670 engine cases that are not dual
> Ducati ignition compatible and possibly not provision 8 compatible. If there
> is a big hole in the top of the Magneto end housing that may have a black plastic
> cover over it, the Ducati ignition will not bolt up.
>
> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>
>
>> On Dec 5, 2013, at 10:37 AM, "Richard Pike" wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Carolina Flyer wrote:
>>> Dennis,
>>> Good luck with your 670 build. I know Rick real well, and I am sure he will
>
>>> do a good job doing the Machine work for you. I have two 670's myself, but
I
> have decided that a Rotax 618 has plenty of enough ponies for my Firestar II
>>> The 618 I have needs to be rebuilt and I plan on having Rick do the work for
> me. I was real lucky this summer to find a Brand New 618 exhaust on E-Bay, it
> has never been used. I also plan on letting Rick doing a 670 for me as I plan
> to have a Two Place side by side one day. Hopefully it will be a Mark III Extra
>>> or a stretched avid flyer.
>>>
>>> Anyway keep us informed on your Progress
>>
>>
>> Noticed that you are thinking of going big block on your FSII: feel free to
contact
> me if you need any ideas or pictures of how we added structure to beef
> up the upper fuselage. Back before we began our conversion, Kolb was concerned
> about the extra torque from the bigger engine being a potentially serious problem
> for the stock tubing.
>>
>> --------
>> Richard Pike
>> Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>> richard (at) bcchapel(dot)org
>> Kingsport, TN 3TN0
>> Now faith is the substance of things hoped for, the evidence of things not seen.
>
>> Hebrews 11:1
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414909#414909
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: RE: Kolb-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 12/04/13
> From: Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net>
>
>
> Bob,
> I have a local friend, "Roger Sell" who is nearing completion of an Xtra with
the
> GP/Valley Engineering set up. Very nice indeed. Should be a hot performer.
> Really looking forward to trying it out next summer.
> My fuselage is 1991 vintage and is not modified for the VW engine. I am also
a
> weight freak and am pretty confident I'll keep my weight within 10 pounds of
the
> 475 pounds my bird weighs with it's current powerplant. The 85+ hp the 670
> offers should be more than ample to hurl my light Mk-3 into the sky at a satisfying
> clip. It also should make 65-70 hp in the lower 5k rpm range which will
> give me a solid 65-70 mph economy cruise. As I am doing some of the work myself,
> reusing my instrumentation and propeller, and starting off with the stock
> single ignition, I should be able to keep the total close to $5k. If it's over
> that, wifeys going to crap! Ok, she'll crap even if it's under. ;-)
> Anyhow, this option offers me the easiest path to a 85hp and should it not work
> out, swapping back to my 2SI will be a one day project. Can't beat that with
> a stick.
>
> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>
>
>> On Dec 5, 2013, at 7:58 AM, Bob Green wrote:
>>
>>
>> Skid: Have you given any thought to a Great Plains VW engine for you plane?
> The 2180 with re-drive should give you 100 hp for take-off and about 70-80 for
> cruise.
>> It is already beefed up in the crank and other areas of significance.
>> I do not want to obligate the folk at GPAS by stating a price but my brand new
> engine built by Steve at GPAS with re-drive was less than what the Rotax two
> stroke, two cyl was.
>> My engine is a four cyl. four stroke air-cooled with dual ignition,starter,
alternator,
> etc.
>> Just a thought.
>> Bob Green
>> MKIIIX
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Change of plans
> From: "Carolina Flyer" <joe.a.lawson(at)gmail.com>
>
>
> Hello Richard Pike,
> In regards to strengthening the cage for the additional torque of a 618. I called
> the Kolb Factory and they told me I should talk to Denise Jackson
> (The Factory's Welder) and him and I discussed this matter and I am going to
use
> his advice. I am having the modification done this winter once deer
> season is over. I do not Hunt but the Welder that does all of my Welding for
me
> is a Deer Hunter. Once the Modification has been completed I will post some
> Pictures.
> Joe
>
> --------
> Kolb Firestar II
> 503 C-Box / RK400
> Soon to have a
> Rotax 670 DCDI
> with a C-Box and
> RK 400 Clutch
>
> Challenger II
> 503 Tall Drive
>
> Location : Buffalo South Carolina
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414924#414924
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: Kolb-List: Rotary valve oil reservoir.
> From: Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net>
>
>
> Does anyone have a Rotax rotary valve oil reservoir from a Rotax twin or a suitable
> substitution?
> I need one for my 670 project.
> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Green <bgreen(at)bimi.org> |
| Subject: | RE: Kolb-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 12/05/13 |
Sounds great Dennis.
Bob Green
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Change of plans part 2 |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
The engine core and ignition components arrived last week for my 670 build. N
ow I have to get an estimate on the parts and machine work I need. The cheap
part is behind me. :-/
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | How much fabric to cover a Mark IIIc? |
| From: | "mike91911" <ko1m.mike(at)gmail.com> |
I'm researching the option of recovering my Mark IIIc in Oratex UL 600. How much
fabric is required to cover a Mark IIIc? Better yet does anyone happen to
have a list of what is required (fabric and tape). I haven't ruled out polyfiber
but I'm a little dissapointed with the Kolb recommended supplier. (not why
I'm considering Oratex) I contacted them on 3 separate occasions about ordering
the kit to do the Mark IIIc and they never got back to me. This seems odd
because I've heard nothing but good things about them and they were extremely
nice when I talked to them but they just never followed up.
The Oratex is about 71" wide and sold by the meter. I'm trying to figure out how
many feet of 71" wide Oratex I need. I can then convert to meters.
Kolb shows the Polyfiber kit as costing $1870 plus shipping and includes everything
but the finish paint. How many gallons of finish paint (polytone) should
I expect to use?
Thanks,
Mike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415270#415270
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How much fabric to cover a Mark IIIc? |
| From: | Martin Koxxy <martinkoxxy(at)gmail.com> |
Mark, I cannot help you with quantities, but I just covered the wing and
tail feathers of my Earthstar eGull with Oratex. Easy, odor-free,
non-toxic, and I saved a bunch of weight (no paint!). I found that I needed
to use a real clothes iron set to fairly high to get the glue to trigger
where it rests on aluminum. Cost-wise about the same (more expensive
fabric, shipping charges, but no chemicals or paint). No direct experience
with how long it lasts yet, but I do plan to keep my plane outside for most
of the year. Lars and Paul at Better Aircraft Fabric were easy to work
with. Contact me off-forum if you want particulars. Good luck!
Martin Koxxy
On Mon, Dec 9, 2013 at 6:29 PM, mike91911 wrote:
>
> I'm researching the option of recovering my Mark IIIc in Oratex UL 600.
> How much fabric is required to cover a Mark IIIc? Better yet does anyone
> happen to have a list of what is required (fabric and tape). I haven't
> ruled out polyfiber but I'm a little dissapointed with the Kolb recommended
> supplier. (not why I'm considering Oratex) I contacted them on 3 separate
> occasions about ordering the kit to do the Mark IIIc and they never got
> back to me. This seems odd because I've heard nothing but good things
> about them and they were extremely nice when I talked to them but they just
> never followed up.
>
> The Oratex is about 71" wide and sold by the meter. I'm trying to figure
> out how many feet of 71" wide Oratex I need. I can then convert to meters.
>
> Kolb shows the Polyfiber kit as costing $1870 plus shipping and includes
> everything but the finish paint. How many gallons of finish paint
> (polytone) should I expect to use?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415270#415270
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 582-99 water pump housing |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Kolbers,
My quest for odds and ends I need for my 670 project continues. I now am looking
for a used Tee shaped dual inlet water pump housing that comes on the 582 blue
head. And also a couple coolant outlet elbows that bolt on the heads of the
liquid cooled Rotax twins.
I can adapt a single inlet pump housing with a plastic tee in the line if I have
to, but the dual inlet will make a much cleaner looking installation.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | propeller to boom tube clearance? |
| From: | "tombaisley" <tombaisley(at)yahoo.com> |
I have a MKIIIC w/ 582, installed a 66" two bladed prop mounted with a 3.5" spacer.
The clearance is .875", it looks awful close?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415303#415303
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: propeller to boom tube clearance? |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
My distance is 1.5", but I have heard of some that are less than an inch. My current
engine is super smooth so it doesn't shake too much, when I swap to the
2 cylinder Rotax 670 I'm going to maintain at least my current distance as I
have heard they are a little rough below 2500 rpm.
Pretty sure you'll be ok, but check with other 582 operators.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Dec 10, 2013, at 6:04 AM, "tombaisley" wrote:
>
>
> I have a MKIIIC w/ 582, installed a 66" two bladed prop mounted with a 3.5"
spacer. The clearance is .875", it looks awful close?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415303#415303
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TheWanderingWench <thewanderingwench(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: propeller to boom tube clearance? |
Although this happened in a Drifter - the placement of the boom and propell
er is similar enough that I'll share my own experience. I was testing a new
prop that was slightly longer than the one I'd been flying with. There was
about 1.5" clearance and it seemed fine - so I took it for a test flight.
It was a fairly windy day and I landed at a friend's airport; due to the co
nfiguration of hangars and hills and wind, I ran into mechanical windshear.
I bounced upon landing, the boom flexed... and I ended up trucking the Dri
fter out for repairs. =0A=0AI had flown many times in that level wind, had
ignimoniously bounced before - but never with such disasterous results. I a
ttribute it totally to the longer prop that didn't allow for sufficient cle
arance.=0A=0AThe guys on this list will probably tell you what the correct
clearance should be - and perhaps say that my Drifter experience has no sim
ilarity to your Kolb. But your question brought up vivid memories!=0A=0AArt
y Trost=0ASandy, Oregon=0A=0A=0A-=0Awww.LessonsFromTheEdge.com/uladventur
e2009.htm=0A=0A=0A"Life's a daring adventure or nothing"=0AHelen Keller=0A
=0A=0A"I refuse to tip toe through life just to arrive safely at death."=0A
=0A=0A=0AOn Tuesday, December 10, 2013 3:10 AM, tombaisley =0A=0AI have a MKIIIC w/ 582, installed a- 66" two bladed pr
op mounted with a 3.5" spacer. The clearance is .875", it looks awful close
?=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.c
==
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | 582-99 water pump housing |
I can adapt a single inlet pump housing with a plastic tee in the line if I
have to, but the dual inlet will make a much cleaner looking installation.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
Dennis R/Kolbers:
Had a nylon 1" hose barb fail on my well pump supply line recently. This
plastic fitting was under ground with nice cool water flowing through it.
I would consider the cooling system critical on a 582. Failure of a fitting
would most likely put you down very quickly.
Personally, I would go with aluminum pump housing. Check with Ronnie Smith,
South Mississippi Light Aircraft if you cannot find another source. He
probably has a used one.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | propeller to boom tube clearance? |
I have a MKIIIC w/ 582, installed a 66" two bladed prop mounted with a 3.5"
spacer. The clearance is .875", it looks awful close?
Tom B/Kolbers:
Without digging out the MKIII Manual, I believe tail boom to prop tip
clearance is 1".
My last flight to Alaska I flew with a 72" Warp Drive 3 blade prop with 3/4"
prop tip to tail boom clearance.
Take a look at the way the engine mounts and airframe are designed. Then
see how much you can deflect the engine downward.
I don't recommend anyone flying with less than the published factory prop
tip to tail boom clearance. However, 3/4" prop clearance was thoroughly
tested before, during, and after my last flight north.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | propeller to boom tube clearance? |
Although this happened in a Drifter - the placement of the boom and
propeller is similar enough that I'll share my own experience.
Arty Trost
Sandy, Oregon
Arty T/Kolbers:
Although the placement of the prop tip and tail boom on a Kolb, all models,
is similar to a Maxair Drifter, that is where the similarity ends. If my
recollection serves me correctly, the Drifter engine is mounted on a single
square aluminum root tube that projects aft of any main fuselage down tubes
for vertical support. Sitting here at my computer I can visualize that root
tube deflecting downward during a hard landing.
I once stalled my mkIII during takeoff from a very confined area at about
30 feet altitude with full flaps. I hit the ground so hard, in a level
attitude, it wiped the main gear off the aircraft. After I finished
crashing, I noticed two things. One, I was sitting much closer to the
ground, and two, I could not find my glasses. Was wearing David Clark
headset at the time. I hit the ground hard enough my glasses ended up in
the nose pod. Despite the other damage, there was no prop strike. The prop
was still turning when I hit the ground.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: propeller to boom tube clearance? |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Tom, I used a finger width as my gauge for clearance on the same setup. If
you need more clearance you can flop the motor mounts, depending on how you
have them set, so that the long side is down on the front pair and up on
the rear pair. The change in angle also helps the airplane trim up a bit
easier, too and you don't have to buy any new hardware.
Rick Girard
On Tue, Dec 10, 2013 at 5:04 AM, tombaisley wrote:
>
> I have a MKIIIC w/ 582, installed a 66" two bladed prop mounted with a
> 3.5" spacer. The clearance is .875", it looks awful close?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415303#415303
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582-99 water pump housing |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Good tip John, I'll check with Ronnie, Rotax thinks highly of their parts so we'll
see what a used one goes for. If I do go with a pumas tic one, I would make
sure ifs rated for the heat swings inherent in a cooling system. Was thinking
of something from an automotive heater system. 1" lines.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Dec 10, 2013, at 9:50 AM, "John Hauck" wrote:
>
>
>
>
> I can adapt a single inlet pump housing with a plastic tee in the line if I
> have to, but the dual inlet will make a much cleaner looking installation.
> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>
>
>
> Dennis R/Kolbers:
>
> Had a nylon 1" hose barb fail on my well pump supply line recently. This
> plastic fitting was under ground with nice cool water flowing through it.
>
> I would consider the cooling system critical on a 582. Failure of a fitting
> would most likely put you down very quickly.
>
> Personally, I would go with aluminum pump housing. Check with Ronnie Smith,
> South Mississippi Light Aircraft if you cannot find another source. He
> probably has a used one.
>
> john h
> mkIII
> Titus, Alabama
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gliderx5(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: How much fabric to cover a Mark IIIc? |
Mike
Oratex looks like a great product but it seems a little pricey for me. I lean to
the frugal end of the scale using uncertified cloth and latex primer and paint.
Even if it took 30 yds of material it would only cost around $300 for everything
($400 tops). I know it doesn't answer your question, but non-toxic food
for thought!
Malcolm Morrison
----- Original Message -----
From: "mike91911" <ko1m.mike(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, December 9, 2013 8:29:27 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: How much fabric to cover a Mark IIIc?
I'm researching the option of recovering my Mark IIIc in Oratex UL 600. How much
fabric is required to cover a Mark IIIc? Better yet does anyone happen to have
a list of what is required (fabric and tape). I haven't ruled out polyfiber
but I'm a little dissapointed with the Kolb recommended supplier. (not why I'm
considering Oratex) I contacted them on 3 separate occasions about ordering
the kit to do the Mark IIIc and they never got back to me. This seems odd because
I've heard nothing but good things about them and they were extremely nice
when I talked to them but they just never followed up.
The Oratex is about 71" wide and sold by the meter. I'm trying to figure out how
many feet of 71" wide Oratex I need. I can then convert to meters.
Kolb shows the Polyfiber kit as costing $1870 plus shipping and includes everything
but the finish paint. How many gallons of finish paint (polytone) should
I expect to use?
Thanks,
Mike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415270#415270
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582-99 water pump housing |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Denny, I have installed the radiator from the mid 80's Honda Magna
motorcycle on two different 582 systems. They have the advantage of being
A) cheap to buy and B) need no modifications to work. The last on a 582-99
performed a climb out to 6000 on a day when the temperature was 117F
without ever getting to the red line on the temp gauge. The article I wrote
about the installation is in the archives but if you cannot find it let me
know and I can send you it to you.
Ask your engine builder but you might want to consider the waterpump cover
for the -90 rather than the -99. The later cover was designed with the PPC
crowd in mind where the throttle is the elevator and the problem of flash
cooling is endemic to them because of it.
Rick Girard
On Tue, Dec 10, 2013 at 10:59 AM, Dennis Rowe wrote:
>
> Good tip John, I'll check with Ronnie, Rotax thinks highly of their parts
> so we'll see what a used one goes for. If I do go with a pumas tic one, I
> would make sure ifs rated for the heat swings inherent in a cooling system.
> Was thinking of something from an automotive heater system. 1" lines.
>
> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>
>
> > On Dec 10, 2013, at 9:50 AM, "John Hauck" wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > I can adapt a single inlet pump housing with a plastic tee in the line
> if I
> > have to, but the dual inlet will make a much cleaner looking
> installation.
> > Dennis "Skid" Rowe
> > Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> >
> >
> >
> > Dennis R/Kolbers:
> >
> > Had a nylon 1" hose barb fail on my well pump supply line recently. This
> > plastic fitting was under ground with nice cool water flowing through it.
> >
> > I would consider the cooling system critical on a 582. Failure of a
> fitting
> > would most likely put you down very quickly.
> >
> > Personally, I would go with aluminum pump housing. Check with Ronnie
> Smith,
> > South Mississippi Light Aircraft if you cannot find another source. He
> > probably has a used one.
> >
> > john h
> > mkIII
> > Titus, Alabama
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582-99 water pump housing |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Thanks for the advice Richard, I'll look into that rad, right now I was plan
ning on using a Honda TRX250R rad I have had for a while that looks to be id
eally sized, but I will have to have larger spigots installed to fit the 1" r
ad hoses of the Rotax.
So I take it if you used the single inlet pump housing, you either blocked o
ff one of the two water outlets in the head, or you installed a tee in the r
eturn line to the pump?
Or maybe you have the 582-90 single outlet head.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Dec 10, 2013, at 7:07 PM, Richard Girard wrote:
>
> Denny, I have installed the radiator from the mid 80's Honda Magna motorcy
cle on two different 582 systems. They have the advantage of being A) cheap t
o buy and B) need no modifications to work. The last on a 582-99 performed a
climb out to 6000 on a day when the temperature was 117F without ever getti
ng to the red line on the temp gauge. The article I wrote about the installa
tion is in the archives but if you cannot find it let me know and I can send
you it to you.
> Ask your engine builder but you might want to consider the waterpump cover
for the -90 rather than the -99. The later cover was designed with the PPC c
rowd in mind where the throttle is the elevator and the problem of flash coo
ling is endemic to them because of it.
>
> Rick Girard
>
>
>> On Tue, Dec 10, 2013 at 10:59 AM, Dennis Rowe w
rote:
>>
>> Good tip John, I'll check with Ronnie, Rotax thinks highly of their parts
so we'll see what a used one goes for. If I do go with a pumas tic one, I w
ould make sure ifs rated for the heat swings inherent in a cooling system. W
as thinking of something from an automotive heater system. 1" lines.
>>
>> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
>> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>>
>>
>>
>> > On Dec 10, 2013, at 9:50 AM, "John Hauck" wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > I can adapt a single inlet pump housing with a plastic tee in the line i
f I
>> > have to, but the dual inlet will make a much cleaner looking installati
on.
>> > Dennis "Skid" Rowe
>> > Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Dennis R/Kolbers:
>> >
>> > Had a nylon 1" hose barb fail on my well pump supply line recently. Th
is
>> > plastic fitting was under ground with nice cool water flowing through i
t.
>> >
>> > I would consider the cooling system critical on a 582. Failure of a fi
tting
>> > would most likely put you down very quickly.
>> >
>> > Personally, I would go with aluminum pump housing. Check with Ronnie S
mith,
>> > South Mississippi Light Aircraft if you cannot find another source. He
>> > probably has a used one.
>> >
>> > john h
>> > mkIII
>> > Titus, Alabama
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> ="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>> ooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
>> et="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> et="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>> "_blank">www.mrrace.com
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> le, List Admin.
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>
>
>
> --
> Zulu Delta
> Mk IIIC
> Thanks, Homer GBYM
>
> It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy
.
> - Groucho Marx
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582-99 water pump housing |
| From: | "tombaisley" <tombaisley(at)yahoo.com> |
What are the dimensions of the TRX250R rad and hose inlets?
thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415377#415377
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582-99 water pump housing |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Dennis, My engine is a -90, the IIIX I worked on had the -99. I plumbed
both as required. You're right about the -99, I had forgotten they have a
dual spigot at the thermostat housing, too.
Rick
On Tue, Dec 10, 2013 at 10:21 PM, Dennis Rowe wrote:
> Thanks for the advice Richard, I'll look into that rad, right now I was
> planning on using a Honda TRX250R rad I have had for a while that looks to
> be ideally sized, but I will have to have larger spigots installed to fit
> the 1" rad hoses of the Rotax.
> So I take it if you used the single inlet pump housing, you either blocked
> off one of the two water outlets in the head, or you installed a tee in the
> return line to the pump?
> Or maybe you have the 582-90 single outlet head.
>
>
> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>
>
> On Dec 10, 2013, at 7:07 PM, Richard Girard wrote:
>
> Denny, I have installed the radiator from the mid 80's Honda Magna
> motorcycle on two different 582 systems. They have the advantage of being
> A) cheap to buy and B) need no modifications to work. The last on a 582-99
> performed a climb out to 6000 on a day when the temperature was 117F
> without ever getting to the red line on the temp gauge. The article I wrote
> about the installation is in the archives but if you cannot find it let me
> know and I can send you it to you.
> Ask your engine builder but you might want to consider the waterpump cover
> for the -90 rather than the -99. The later cover was designed with the PPC
> crowd in mind where the throttle is the elevator and the problem of flash
> cooling is endemic to them because of it.
>
> Rick Girard
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 10, 2013 at 10:59 AM, Dennis Rowe wrote:
>
>>
>> Good tip John, I'll check with Ronnie, Rotax thinks highly of their parts
>> so we'll see what a used one goes for. If I do go with a pumas tic one, I
>> would make sure ifs rated for the heat swings inherent in a cooling system.
>> Was thinking of something from an automotive heater system. 1" lines.
>>
>> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
>> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>>
>>
>>
>> > On Dec 10, 2013, at 9:50 AM, "John Hauck" wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > I can adapt a single inlet pump housing with a plastic tee in the line
>> if I
>> > have to, but the dual inlet will make a much cleaner looking
>> installation.
>> > Dennis "Skid" Rowe
>> > Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Dennis R/Kolbers:
>> >
>> > Had a nylon 1" hose barb fail on my well pump supply line recently.
>> This
>> > plastic fitting was under ground with nice cool water flowing through
>> it.
>> >
>> > I would consider the cooling system critical on a 582. Failure of a
>> fitting
>> > would most likely put you down very quickly.
>> >
>> > Personally, I would go with aluminum pump housing. Check with Ronnie
>> Smith,
>> > South Mississippi Light Aircraft if you cannot find another source. He
>> > probably has a used one.
>> >
>> > john h
>> > mkIII
>> > Titus, Alabama
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> ="_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
>> ooks.com" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
>> et="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
>> et="_blank">www.mypilotstore.com
>> "_blank">www.mrrace.com
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> le, List Admin.
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Zulu Delta
> Mk IIIC
> Thanks, Homer GBYM
>
> It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
> - Groucho Marx
>
> *
>
> D============================================
> ot;">www.aeroelectric.com <http://www.aeroelectric.com>
> books.com <http://books.com>"">www.buildersbooks.com
> quot;">www.homebuilthelp.com <http://www.homebuilthelp.com>
> quot;">www.mypilotstore.com <http://www.mypilotstore.com>
> ">www.mrrace.com <http://www.mrrace.com>
> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> D============================================
> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
> D============================================
> //forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
> D============================================
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582-99 water pump housing |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Tom,
The radiator is 13 3/4" wide, 9 1/2" tall and 1 5/8" thick. Has 3/4 inch fittings,
and a cap. Hose fittings are located on the top left and bottom right corners,
cap is on the top right.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Dec 11, 2013, at 7:44 AM, "tombaisley" wrote:
>
>
> What are the dimensions of the TRX250R rad and hose inlets?
> thanks
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415377#415377
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582-99 water pump housing |
| From: | "tombaisley" <tombaisley(at)yahoo.com> |
I'm installing a 582 on a MKIIIc, I want to install the radiator below the gearbox
aft of the fuselage, the Magna radiator is awkward because the inflow and
out flow are on the wrong side when installed in the rear configuration, Surfing
ebay I found a trx450 radiator, uses straight hose connections and is configured
correctly but the the dimensions are 12x12.75"might be a bit large. The
TRX250 sounds like the right size but the upper hose connection comes out at
an odd angle?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415419#415419
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582-99 water pump housing |
| From: | "tombaisley" <tombaisley(at)yahoo.com> |
I take back my last post I found the 1988 trx250 use straight hose connections
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415420#415420
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582-99 water pump housing |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Some of them come straight back, search eBay and you'll find some that come straight
out. Or Bylers radiator in UT could probably change the spouts. If I use
the the 250R rad on the 670 I'll have Bylers give it their full meal deal first.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Dec 11, 2013, at 8:16 PM, "tombaisley" wrote:
>
>
> I'm installing a 582 on a MKIIIc, I want to install the radiator below the gearbox
aft of the fuselage, the Magna radiator is awkward because the inflow and
out flow are on the wrong side when installed in the rear configuration, Surfing
ebay I found a trx450 radiator, uses straight hose connections and is configured
correctly but the the dimensions are 12x12.75"might be a bit large. The
TRX250 sounds like the right size but the upper hose connection comes out at
an odd angle?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415419#415419
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 582-99 water pump housing |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
My bad, it's Mylers radiator repair, not Bylers.
They do good work on aluminum rads only!
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Dec 11, 2013, at 8:32 PM, "tombaisley" wrote:
>
>
> I take back my last post I found the 1988 trx250 use straight hose connections
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415420#415420
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How much fabric to cover a Mark IIIc? |
| From: | "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)wildblue.net> |
The poly fiber is a wonderful product to use but unbelievably high in price. They
will also short you 15 feet in cloth so be prepared to have to buy more
--------
Rick Lewis
(VW Watercooled Engine)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415487#415487
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Green <bgreen(at)bimi.org> |
| Subject: | RE: Kolb-List Digest: |
Who are the "they" who short change buyers on fabric? I have dealt with The Millers
and have always received prompt service and exactly what I ordered and
for what I paid.
In all honesty, if they and other providers know someone is just seeking information
on amounts of fabric, etc. they probably do not respond as well as they
would if a person is serious about purchasing their products. I can not speak
for them or anyone but myself, but if my livelihood depended on selling fabric
and certain products I would probably respond in a similar manner. They make
their living in a very competitive market selling Poli-fiber products. I
personally have tried to respect that fact with all the providers with which
I deal. Poli-fiber seems costly but I have inspected and worked on other fabric
covered planes and am convinced that Poli-fiber will last more than 15-20
years if applied correctly and it is definitely easy to apply, even for those
working with fabric for the first time... like I was.
Many years ago when I was buying an airplane from a friend I kept prodding him
to come down on the price. He reminded me that he could not stay in business
if he donated all his time and products, etc.
I have nothing but respect for Jim and Dondi... if they are by chance the "they"
mentioned. I do not mean to offend anyone and I know that even the greatest
vendor drops the ball at some time or another, but they have never dropped it
in my case.
I had to order more fabric because of a mistake I made and I also used more materials
because it was my first fabric job.
Just my two cents worth... and it is free. Of course I have been told by some
good friends that I don't have enough "cents" (sense) to be givining any away.
:)
Bob
N830PB,
MKIII Extra
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE: Kolb-List Digest: |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
I should have chimed in sooner on this.
I have had the same experience as Bob with Jim and Dondi Miller. They are true
class acts.
I look forward to someday soon covering our 48 C-170's wings with products purchased
from these fine folks at Aircraft Technical Support.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Dec 13, 2013, at 4:36 PM, Bob Green wrote:
>
>
>
> Who are the "they" who short change buyers on fabric? I have dealt with The
Millers and have always received prompt service and exactly what I ordered and
for what I paid.
> In all honesty, if they and other providers know someone is just seeking information
on amounts of fabric, etc. they probably do not respond as well as they
would if a person is serious about purchasing their products. I can not speak
for them or anyone but myself, but if my livelihood depended on selling fabric
and certain products I would probably respond in a similar manner. They
make their living in a very competitive market selling Poli-fiber products.
I personally have tried to respect that fact with all the providers with which
I deal. Poli-fiber seems costly but I have inspected and worked on other fabric
covered planes and am convinced that Poli-fiber will last more than 15-20
years if applied correctly and it is definitely easy to apply, even for those
working with fabric for the first time... like I was.
>
> Many years ago when I was buying an airplane from a friend I kept prodding him
to come down on the price. He reminded me that he could not stay in business
if he donated all his time and products, etc.
> I have nothing but respect for Jim and Dondi... if they are by chance the "they"
mentioned. I do not mean to offend anyone and I know that even the greatest
vendor drops the ball at some time or another, but they have never dropped
it in my case.
>
> I had to order more fabric because of a mistake I made and I also used more materials
because it was my first fabric job.
> Just my two cents worth... and it is free. Of course I have been told by some
good friends that I don't have enough "cents" (sense) to be givining any
away. :)
> Bob
> N830PB,
> MKIII Extra
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Kolb-List Digest: |
Poli-fiber seems costly but I have inspected and worked on other fabric
covered planes and am convinced that Poli-fiber will last more than 15-20
years if applied correctly and it is definitely easy to apply, even for
those working with fabric for the first time... like I was.
I have nothing but respect for Jim and Dondi... if they are by chance the
"they" mentioned. I do not mean to offend anyone and I know that even the
greatest vendor drops the ball at some time or another, but they have never
dropped it in my case.
Bob
N830PB,
MKIII Extra
Bob G/Kolbers:
I covered my MKIII 23 years ago with Polyfiber. In 2000, after tearing up a
wing aileron, and flap, during a crash at Muncho Lake, BC, Jim and Dondi
Miller came to my rescue. They were at the Kolb Homecoming that year, as
well as Homer and Clara Kolb. I shared my unsuccessful flight to Alaska
with the group of Kolbers attending. At the end of my briefing, Jim Miller
stood up and informed me that he and Dondi would provide me with all fabric,
paint, and material to recover the wing, aileron, and flap, at no charge.
And that also included shipping. I will never forget and will always be
grateful for their extreme generosity. With their help, The New Kolb
Aircraft, and a few others, I was successful in flying to Point Barrow,
Alaska, the following year.
I echo Bob Green's sentiments about Jim and Dondi. They have always gone
out of their way to help all of their customers that I am aware of.
And one thing for sure. You will always get a tremendous hug from Dondi.
She is a exceptionally good hugger.
By the way, the fabric on my right wing, aileron, flap, rudder, horizontal
stabilizer, and fuselage are original 1991 fabric and paint. The left wing,
aileron, flap and vertical stabilizer were covered and painted in 2000.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Change of plans, part 3 |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Took the 670 core to my friend and Slingshot driver Dave Lewis's house for d
isassembly of the top end. All went fine as frogs fuzz. Had some light scrat
ches in one barrel dictating I have it over bored. Removed the oil injection
pump as I've chosen go with premix for now. The cylinders and head are now a
t my local machine shop waiting for the new pistons to arrive, and to get pa
rticle blasted to look like new. The crank and crank case are waiting to be p
roperly packaged for the trip to Naples Florida for reworking by Rotax Rick a
nd to get the E gearbox and exhaust fitted. As that will be the major expens
e of this project, wifey has appealed to me to put that on hold till the hol
iday credit card Smackdown is paid off. In the meantime I have pretty much a
cquired all the odds and ends I'll need to complete the project through some
very successful eBay shopping. Just landed the power valves tonight.
Life is good.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA