Kolb-Archive.digest.vol-ms
January 24, 2014 - April 14, 2014
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Aman <zeprep251(at)aol.com> |
I have trailered Kolbs to Florida from Ohio since 2001,folded and unfolded at least
40 times each winter with no issues,and fly over 100 hours every year. With
a little ingenuity on your part,the process can take as little as 15 minutes,one
of Kolb's best features.
Sent from my iPhone
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
GeoB wrote:
>
> > For future planning - it is considered good manners and a courtesy to
> > reduce the size of the pictures to properly fit the page.
> >
>
>
> I love it when folks post a large picture. I simply save it, then later can
> zoom in on an area of interest if needed.
Cool.
Since I am using Google Chrome, I just pop open the +/- tab at the top right and
shrink the page until the pictures fit on it. So that is not the problem.
The problem is having to drag the scroll bar back and forth and back and forth
to read the text that extends off the side of the page for what is probably another
foot and a half.
Should we assume you also love dragging the scroll bar back and forth across the
screen to read the text? Because in my case - for whatever reason - I have not
quite reached that level of enthusiasm... After a couple pages of that I am
thinking "This is on the same level as the goober who forward/forward/forwards
me email and never deletes anybody else's email address."
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
My soul shall be joyful in the LORD; It shall rejoice in His salvation. Psalm 35:9
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417552#417552
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GeoB" <gab16(at)sbcglobal.net> |
> The problem is having to drag the scroll bar back and forth
I don't like that either. I am always saving pics for one reason or another but
I don't recall having problems with big pictures very often. Maybe I'm just not
paying attention.
--------
GeoB
"Members of Congress should be compelled to wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers,
so we could identify their corporate sponsors"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417554#417554
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: new michigan group |
| From: | "abumhoffer" <abumhoffer(at)hotmail.com> |
Malcolm, the only Fly Michigan Yahoo group I could find was inactive for the past
few years. Is that link correct? Al
--------
Al Bumhoffer, Elkton, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417566#417566
________________________________________________________________________________
I folded the wings every time I fly. One of the checks I put into place is to
put all the hardware into a little box by itself (no more or no less than needed).
After set up, that box should be empty.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417570#417570
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | problem firestar |
| From: | "dany88" <danielecafaro(at)alice.it> |
It is normal that the left wing of this movement?
the right wing makes him slightly.
I can fly like that?
Today I made my second flight and fly the beautiful state kolb firestar,
just to close the wings I noticed this movement.
watch the video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVMA3QHOf8E&feature=youtu.be
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417571#417571
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/foto_cel5_024_218.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: problem firestar |
| From: | "tombaisley" <tombaisley(at)yahoo.com> |
Do not fly that airplane.
You need to look up inside the wing to determine why that is loose.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417576#417576
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firefly covering photos |
| From: | "Ducati SS" <hiwingflyer6219(at)yahoo.com> |
Stuart, here are the close up photos you requested.
I used the Poly Fiber system, it truly is a very simple system and the instruction
book is quite good. The only part I had any trouble with was estimating the
initial application tension, it is somewhat subjective depending on the size
of the item being covered. 1 coat poly brush brushed, 1coat poly brush sprayed,
3 coats silver and multiple color coats. If I were to do it over I would not
paint a lightweight plane white. I was used to auto paints and was quite surprised
at how little coverage the pigments in the Poly Tone provide. The cage
and boom are powder coated and most other parts such as nose cone, flaperons,
tail ring and such are single stage Croma One auto urethane.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417577#417577
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124446_resized_212.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_125707_resized_180.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124949_resized_181.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124840_resized_642.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124800_resized_959.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124700_resized_158.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124627_resized_929.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124544_resized_108.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Alexander" <gtalexander(at)att.net> |
Jason Omelchuck wrote:
> I folded the wings every time I fly. One of the checks I put into place is to
put all the hardware into a little box by itself (no more or no less than needed).
After set up, that box should be empty.
I also unfold/fold for every flight.... When folding to put it away, I put every
connector removed, back where it came from, along with safety pins/rings/washers,
etc.... For me, easier to keep up with them and helps ensure their proper
placement when assembling.
Your results may differ.
--------
George Alexander
FS II R503 N709FS
http://www.oh2fly.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417579#417579
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford " <beauford173(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | problem firestar |
Dany:
NO.... Definitely NOT normal..... Possibly very dangerous.
I would NOT fly it until the wing covering is opened and the inside structure
is inspected.... BOTH wings.
There can be no movement in this structure. Very important.
Beauford
FF-076
Brandon FL
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of dany88
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 11:38 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: problem firestar
It is normal that the left wing of this movement?
the right wing makes him slightly.
I can fly like that?
Today I made my second flight and fly the beautiful state kolb firestar,
just to close the wings I noticed this movement.
watch the video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVMA3QHOf8E&feature=youtu.be
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417571#417571
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/foto_cel5_024_218.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stuart Harner" <stuart(at)harnerfarm.net> |
| Subject: | Firefly covering photos |
Thanks so much! They are saved to my ready reference file.
A tip of the hat to you on your craftsmanship!
I do however still have a couple of questions.
On the fuselage fabric, it would appear that you wrapped the upper longeron
with the pinked edge tape, but I cannot tell how far around the tube you
wrapped the fabric. I would think about half way around would provide
enough base for poly tac on that small of a surface.
I do have a little experience with Dacron fabric. My Dad and I recovered an
Aeronca Chief about 30 years ago and I helped a friend cover his Fisher
Classic about 20 years ago. I understand the problem of knowing how tight
to make the raw fabric, especially on these light weight structures, it can
be really easy to over shrink and damage something.
The Kolb manual suggested using a bunch of 5# weights suspended around the
perimeter to provide the tension. I have not tried that yet, but suspect it
may be too tight for the 1.7 oz fabric, which is all I can find these days.
I think a little less than snug should be about right. I have some scraps
of fabric (2.7 oz. I think) and some expired poly tac that I am going to
play with while calibrating my iron. This well get me used to the process
again, and give me test panels to use when setting up my spray gun. All it
is going to cost is some extra time, which will be well spent if it helps
keep me from doing something on the plane over again.
I found your comments about the pigments interesting and have a question
about that as well.
Was the problem with getting the white to cover the silver or the yellow to
cover the white?
I ask because I can tell you used un-tinted poly brush, but understand that
light colors don't cover dark very well, and poly spray is fairly dark.
I plan on using yellow, red and black. The yellow will be the "base" color
and the red and black with be fairly large areas of contrast. My plan is to
use two coats of un-tinted poly brush, one brushed, one sprayed, each coat
consisting of two cross coats.
Then to skip the poly spray and just add uv blocker to the poly tone. I
don't think I will do the entire structure in yellow as I first planned. I
am now thinking of masking off and painting each color separately over the
poly brush which should still be basically white from the fabric underneath.
I do this for two reasons. One, I am cheap, and two, any area with contrast
color will mean additional coats to that area, adding weight.
I am going to try my best to beat the 254# if I can.
Thanks for your photos and your input.
Stuart
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ducati SS
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2014 12:45 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Firefly covering photos
Stuart, here are the close up photos you requested.
I used the Poly Fiber system, it truly is a very simple system and the
instruction book is quite good. The only part I had any trouble with was
estimating the initial application tension, it is somewhat subjective
depending on the size of the item being covered. 1 coat poly brush brushed,
1coat poly brush sprayed, 3 coats silver and multiple color coats. If I were
to do it over I would not paint a lightweight plane white. I was used to
auto paints and was quite surprised at how little coverage the pigments in
the Poly Tone provide. The cage and boom are powder coated and most other
parts such as nose cone, flaperons, tail ring and such are single stage
Croma One auto urethane.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417577#417577
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124446_resized_212.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_125707_resized_180.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124949_resized_181.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124840_resized_642.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124800_resized_959.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124700_resized_158.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124627_resized_929.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/20140125_124544_resized_108.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Video Clip of Miss P'fer Landing at Skelton Airstrip, Eureka, |
Alaska, 20004
A short video clip of my mkIII landing at Skelton Airstrip, Eureka, Alaska.
Did not know the clip existed until I returned from the trip north. Paul
Petty (RIP), former Kolb List Member, was corresponding with a pilot in
Alaska. Somehow they got around to this video clip. Paul gave me a shout
and sent me a copy. I had forgotten about it until tonight while surfing
the internet, I happened upon it on Robert Laird's blog.
In 1994, during my first flight to Alaska, Miss P'fer and I spent the night
on the airstrip. Good food in Eureka Lodge across the highway. Very
convenient flyin and camp under the wing.
http://www.texas-flyer.com/images/hauck-video.html
Did a Google search to insure I was spelling Skelton correctly and the photo
of my camp at Skelton in 1994 popped up:
http://www.kolbaircraft.com/images/jh94c1.jpg
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: problem firestar |
>
>It is normal that the left wing of this movement?
>the right wing makes him slightly.
>I can fly like that?
>Today I made my second flight and fly the beautiful state kolb firestar,
>just to close the wings I noticed this movement.
>watch the video
>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVMA3QHOf8E&feature=youtu.be
>
The clevis swivel and pivot bolt looked good. Could not see if the wing
link to the knuckle was moving in and out of the wing. Fold the wing and
rest the leading edge (front corner) on the floor. Remove the vertical bolt
that passes through the swivel clevis and the knuckle. Move the top of the
wing at the swivel away from the knuckle. With your hand grasp the joint
protruding from the wing and give it a good shake. From this you should be
able to determine if the movement is from inside the wing.
It may be that the compression strut is loose inside the alignment tube that
is welded to the inner most steel rib. A small hole cut into the bottom of
the wing will expose this area.
As a safety issue, turn the swivel over so the bolt head through the knuckle
is up and the nut is down.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firefly covering photos |
| From: | "Ducati SS" <hiwingflyer6219(at)yahoo.com> |
I wrapped the fabric around as far as I could work with it, probably more than
needed but in most places it was more than half way.
I used a lot of white to cover the silver, yellow over white was no problem. Spent
lots of money on white paint and likely added considerable weight. If you
look very carefully at the overall tail photo you can see that I added UV blocker
to the vertical fin paint and it yellowed a bit.
I discovered a few things about irons. I checked several and found the following.
Some iron thermostats have a wide temp. range between low on and high off.
I finally found one with a narrow stable range but it cost a bit more than the
really cheap versions. The shoe on all the irons at a given set temp. had rather
wide variations across the shoe. For these reasons I found the recommended
calibration method using a stack of napkins and heat sink to be somewhat inaccurate
as only a small area is being sampled. I ended up using one of the non
contact infrared thermometers and using the hottest portion of the shoe as my
set temp. One of the small RC covering irons was also very helpful.
You are probably already aware of all the reasons Poly Tone is recommended and
they are all true but I would use a urethane paint next time. The Poly Tone just
is not as durable as the urethanes.
The checker board is Mono coat trim coat which works very well and the tail emblem
was cut by a local sign maker after they blew up and adjusted a shop manual
drawing.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417604#417604
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: problem firestar |
| From: | "dany88" <danielecafaro(at)alice.it> |
Here are two videos I made ... the first show faulty movement the second shows
that the structure and ok. So according to me and only to firmly attach the bolts
of the structure, perhaps through the years were slightly loose. since I disassembled
everything, replace the main bolt with a self-locking so I'm sure
you do not loose any more.
What do you think?
http://youtu.be/MHIv3fZPi1o
http://youtu.be/jMeoG_fxIXA
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417607#417607
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b young" <byoungplumbing(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: problem firestar |
dany88
if the movement is between the rear wing attach fitting and the tube it goes
into, in the wing... the first thing I would is to prime the bare metal...
then apply enough coats of paint till is is a tight fit. then I would take
a small bit of silicone rubber and with a stick or q tip , put a thin film
on the inside of the wing tube, and also on the outside of the steel
fitting, slide the steel fitting in and bolt in place.
on the swivel fitting that fits on the airframe. also prime and paint,
then install a washer and castle nut with a cotter pin. it should be tight
enough so there is no excess movement, but loose enough to allow it to turn
when you fold the wing. check the cotter pin every time you fly.
the drag strut inside the wing should be solid with no movement.
boyd
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
"dany88"
Here are two videos I made ... the first show faulty movement the second
shows that the structure and ok. So according to me and only to firmly
attach the bolts of the structure,
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection
is active.
http://www.avast.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firefly covering photos |
| From: | "Ducati SS" <hiwingflyer6219(at)yahoo.com> |
Stuart, the following may help when you cover the wings.
One of the reasons I chose to build the Firefly is the strong airframe, however
as well designed as it is the uncovered ribs aft of the main spar are a bit
flexible. You may find they are bowed and not perfectly parallel , I x braced
them using rib stitch cord and that got them very close. After covering the
wing and marking reference lines I found the rib apex was still slightly off.
I bought several lengths of square hardwood at Lowes about 1/2" and 2 or 3 medium
plastic spring clamps with plastic or rubber jaws. Made a nylon hook on the
end, reached thru the root end of the wing, hooked the rib and pushed or pulled
it into position and then clamped it to the 4130 structure of the root rib.
Riveted that rib and then moved on to the next. Ended up with nice straight
ribs and rivet lines.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417613#417613
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: problem firestar |
I had a similar problem with excessive clearances in the swivel joints on my
FireFly.
You can see how I fixed it at: http://jackbhart.com/firefly/firefly128.html
To remove the excessive clearance between the part in the wing and the socket,
I would coat inside of the socket and the outside of the swivel end with J-B
Weld. Then slide it into place and line up the bolt hole and put the bolt
into place. J-B Weld is an iron particle filled epoxy that is very strong.
When it sets up there should be no play between the swivel end and the socket.
Information about J-B Weld can be found at: http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-weld/
Jack B Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
.........................................................................................
>
>Here are two videos I made ... the first show faulty movement the second
shows that the structure and ok. So according to me and only to firmly
attach the bolts of the structure, perhaps through the years were slightly
loose. since I disassembled everything, replace the main bolt with a
self-locking so I'm sure you do not loose any more.
>What do you think?
>
>http://youtu.be/MHIv3fZPi1o
>
>http://youtu.be/jMeoG_fxIXA
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stuart Harner" <stuart(at)harnerfarm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly covering photos |
Well now that is another very helpful hint. Thank you for posting it.
I will be sure and look this over real well before I do my covering.
I had wondered about the X-bracing in the wings. I remembered doing this on
the Chief, but I think we tacked it down to each rib so they would not move.
The ribs were wood and the fabric was not glued to the ribs. We used rib
stitching that duplicated the original configuration.
I noticed in the Poly Fiber manual it says to not tie or fasten the
X-bracing to the rib so that the rib was free to move, but it also states
the purpose was to keep the rib in place. Well, which is it? When I think
of X-bracing, I think of floor joist or side walls of a hangar. The purpose
is to keep things from "racking" and getting out of alignment. I would
think the same applies to ribs, so wouldn't you want the bracing attached to
each rib to prevent movement?
My guess is the bracing would be halfway between the main and rear spars?
Any and all input from the list about this is most appreciated.
Thanks again,
Stuart
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ducati SS
Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2014 10:35 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Firefly covering photos
Stuart, the following may help when you cover the wings.
One of the reasons I chose to build the Firefly is the strong airframe,
however as well designed as it is the uncovered ribs aft of the main spar
are a bit flexible. You may find they are bowed and not perfectly parallel
, I x braced them using rib stitch cord and that got them very close. After
covering the wing and marking reference lines I found the rib apex was still
slightly off. I bought several lengths of square hardwood at Lowes about
1/2" and 2 or 3 medium plastic spring clamps with plastic or rubber jaws.
Made a nylon hook on the end, reached thru the root end of the wing, hooked
the rib and pushed or pulled it into position and then clamped it to the
4130 structure of the root rib. Riveted that rib and then moved on to the
next. Ended up with nice straight ribs and rivet lines.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417613#417613
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly covering photos |
There are some good you tube vids showing Bryan Milburn building a Kolb
wing...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVE6sNXwgMc
Herb
On 01/26/2014 06:52 PM, Stuart Harner
wrote:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVE6sNXwgMc
>
> Well now that is another very helpful hint. Thank you for posting it.
>
> I will be sure and look this over real well before I do my covering.
>
> I had wondered about the X-bracing in the wings. I remembered doing this on
> the Chief, but I think we tacked it down to each rib so they would not move.
> The ribs were wood and the fabric was not glued to the ribs. We used rib
> stitching that duplicated the original configuration.
>
> I noticed in the Poly Fiber manual it says to not tie or fasten the
> X-bracing to the rib so that the rib was free to move, but it also states
> the purpose was to keep the rib in place. Well, which is it? When I think
> of X-bracing, I think of floor joist or side walls of a hangar. The purpose
> is to keep things from "racking" and getting out of alignment. I would
> think the same applies to ribs, so wouldn't you want the bracing attached to
> each rib to prevent movement?
>
> My guess is the bracing would be halfway between the main and rear spars?
>
> Any and all input from the list about this is most appreciated.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Stuart
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ducati SS
> Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2014 10:35 AM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Firefly covering photos
>
>
> Stuart, the following may help when you cover the wings.
>
> One of the reasons I chose to build the Firefly is the strong airframe,
> however as well designed as it is the uncovered ribs aft of the main spar
> are a bit flexible. You may find they are bowed and not perfectly parallel
> , I x braced them using rib stitch cord and that got them very close. After
> covering the wing and marking reference lines I found the rib apex was still
> slightly off. I bought several lengths of square hardwood at Lowes about
> 1/2" and 2 or 3 medium plastic spring clamps with plastic or rubber jaws.
> Made a nylon hook on the end, reached thru the root end of the wing, hooked
> the rib and pushed or pulled it into position and then clamped it to the
> 4130 structure of the root rib. Riveted that rib and then moved on to the
> next. Ended up with nice straight ribs and rivet lines.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417613#417613
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly covering photos |
Kolbers:
X-bracing is not required to keep the ribs in column. That is one of the
jobs of the fabric covering. Once the fabric has been processed and
riveted, the ribs will be secure and not move.
We have been building Kolbs like this for over 30 years. The "normal"
procedure works well.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stuart Harner
Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2014 6:53 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: Firefly covering photos
Well now that is another very helpful hint. Thank you for posting it.
I will be sure and look this over real well before I do my covering.
I had wondered about the X-bracing in the wings. I remembered doing this on
the Chief, but I think we tacked it down to each rib so they would not move.
The ribs were wood and the fabric was not glued to the ribs. We used rib
stitching that duplicated the original configuration.
I noticed in the Poly Fiber manual it says to not tie or fasten the
X-bracing to the rib so that the rib was free to move, but it also states
the purpose was to keep the rib in place. Well, which is it? When I think
of X-bracing, I think of floor joist or side walls of a hangar. The purpose
is to keep things from "racking" and getting out of alignment. I would
think the same applies to ribs, so wouldn't you want the bracing attached to
each rib to prevent movement?
My guess is the bracing would be halfway between the main and rear spars?
Any and all input from the list about this is most appreciated.
Thanks again,
Stuart
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ducati SS
Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2014 10:35 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Firefly covering photos
Stuart, the following may help when you cover the wings.
One of the reasons I chose to build the Firefly is the strong airframe,
however as well designed as it is the uncovered ribs aft of the main spar
are a bit flexible. You may find they are bowed and not perfectly parallel
, I x braced them using rib stitch cord and that got them very close. After
covering the wing and marking reference lines I found the rib apex was still
slightly off. I bought several lengths of square hardwood at Lowes about
1/2" and 2 or 3 medium plastic spring clamps with plastic or rubber jaws.
Made a nylon hook on the end, reached thru the root end of the wing, hooked
the rib and pushed or pulled it into position and then clamped it to the
4130 structure of the root rib. Riveted that rib and then moved on to the
next. Ended up with nice straight ribs and rivet lines.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417613#417613
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firefly covering photos |
| From: | kinne russ <russk50(at)gmail.com> |
Stuart
IMHO good thinking on your part. I'm rebuilding an Xrtra wing and saw that there
was no X-bracing.
It obviously isn't needed on that wing. The Kolb crew knows what they are doing
and what's best for a Kolb aircraft. I don't plan to do anything different.
Good luck,
Russ K
On Jan 26, 2014, at 7:52 PM, Stuart Harner wrote:
>
> Well now that is another very helpful hint. Thank you for posting it.
>
> I will be sure and look this over real well before I do my covering.
>
> I had wondered about the X-bracing in the wings. I remembered doing this on
> the Chief, but I think we tacked it down to each rib so they would not move.
> The ribs were wood and the fabric was not glued to the ribs. We used rib
> stitching that duplicated the original configuration.
>
> I noticed in the Poly Fiber manual it says to not tie or fasten the
> X-bracing to the rib so that the rib was free to move, but it also states
> the purpose was to keep the rib in place. Well, which is it? When I think
> of X-bracing, I think of floor joist or side walls of a hangar. The purpose
> is to keep things from "racking" and getting out of alignment. I would
> think the same applies to ribs, so wouldn't you want the bracing attached to
> each rib to prevent movement?
>
> My guess is the bracing would be halfway between the main and rear spars?
>
> Any and all input from the list about this is most appreciated.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Stuart
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ducati SS
> Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2014 10:35 AM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Firefly covering photos
>
>
> Stuart, the following may help when you cover the wings.
>
> One of the reasons I chose to build the Firefly is the strong airframe,
> however as well designed as it is the uncovered ribs aft of the main spar
> are a bit flexible. You may find they are bowed and not perfectly parallel
> , I x braced them using rib stitch cord and that got them very close. After
> covering the wing and marking reference lines I found the rib apex was still
> slightly off. I bought several lengths of square hardwood at Lowes about
> 1/2" and 2 or 3 medium plastic spring clamps with plastic or rubber jaws.
> Made a nylon hook on the end, reached thru the root end of the wing, hooked
> the rib and pushed or pulled it into position and then clamped it to the
> 4130 structure of the root rib. Riveted that rib and then moved on to the
> next. Ended up with nice straight ribs and rivet lines.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417613#417613
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Nico sleeves and proper cable construction |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Stuart, If the second Nico swage is causing problems, look up cable
construction in Advisory Circuar 43-13 1B & 2A, Chapter 7 Section 8, page
7-32.
http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/list/AC%2043.13-1B/$FILE/Chapter%2007.pdf
The second sleeve is NOT required to make a cable that is good to the rated
strength of the cable.
Just a thought,
Rick Girard
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stuart Harner" <stuart(at)harnerfarm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly covering photos |
Thanks Russ, and John H,
It did not make much sense about X-bracing that lets the rib move (not tied
as per Poly Fiber manual) and then fasten the rib to the fabric to make it
stay in place.
Careful rib alignment in.
X-bracing out.
I am still thinking about rivets vs. stitching, but am leaning towards
stitching (thanks for the videos guys) since I already know how to do it and
I don't like drilling holes.
Planning to order my supplies tonight.
I am sure there will be more questions along the way.
Thanks again,
Stuart
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of kinne russ
Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2014 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: Firefly covering photos
Stuart
IMHO good thinking on your part. I'm rebuilding an Xrtra wing and saw that
there was no X-bracing.
It obviously isn't needed on that wing. The Kolb crew knows what they are
doing and what's best for a Kolb aircraft. I don't plan to do anything
different.
Good luck,
Russ K
On Jan 26, 2014, at 7:52 PM, Stuart Harner wrote:
> -->
>
> Well now that is another very helpful hint. Thank you for posting it.
>
> I will be sure and look this over real well before I do my covering.
>
> I had wondered about the X-bracing in the wings. I remembered doing
> this on the Chief, but I think we tacked it down to each rib so they would
not move.
> The ribs were wood and the fabric was not glued to the ribs. We used
> rib stitching that duplicated the original configuration.
>
> I noticed in the Poly Fiber manual it says to not tie or fasten the
> X-bracing to the rib so that the rib was free to move, but it also
> states the purpose was to keep the rib in place. Well, which is it?
> When I think of X-bracing, I think of floor joist or side walls of a
> hangar. The purpose is to keep things from "racking" and getting out
> of alignment. I would think the same applies to ribs, so wouldn't you
> want the bracing attached to each rib to prevent movement?
>
> My guess is the bracing would be halfway between the main and rear spars?
>
> Any and all input from the list about this is most appreciated.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Stuart
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ducati SS
> Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2014 10:35 AM
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Firefly covering photos
>
> -->
>
> Stuart, the following may help when you cover the wings.
>
> One of the reasons I chose to build the Firefly is the strong
> airframe, however as well designed as it is the uncovered ribs aft of
> the main spar are a bit flexible. You may find they are bowed and not
> perfectly parallel , I x braced them using rib stitch cord and that
> got them very close. After covering the wing and marking reference
> lines I found the rib apex was still slightly off. I bought several
> lengths of square hardwood at Lowes about 1/2" and 2 or 3 medium plastic
spring clamps with plastic or rubber jaws.
> Made a nylon hook on the end, reached thru the root end of the wing,
> hooked the rib and pushed or pulled it into position and then clamped
> it to the
> 4130 structure of the root rib. Riveted that rib and then moved on to
> the next. Ended up with nice straight ribs and rivet lines.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417613#417613
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly covering photos |
Kolbers:
Rib stitching works best on flat wooden rib caps. Flat metal rib caps
normally use screws. My foggy memory is trying to tell me there are also
metal clips for flat metal ribs, but wouldn't want to bet on it. Round rib
tubes work best with fabric rivets. There is minimal contact surface
between the apex of the tube wall and the fabric/reinforcement tape. When
pulling a rib stitch tight on a 5/16" tube, the cord tends to pull the
fabric down, causing a dimpled effect.
Rib stitching is not as durable in the area of prop drumming as fabric
rivets. A local Kolb Slingshot had some problems with in flight vibration
and a loud drumming sound. During an in flight inspection the fabric in the
area of the top right inboard area of the right wing was ballooning. On the
ground it was discovered that the rib stitching had pulled loose. Repairs
were made with fabric rivets. No more problem.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
I am still thinking about rivets vs. stitching, but am leaning towards
stitching (thanks for the videos guys) since I already know how to do it and
I don't like drilling holes.
Stuart
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firefly covering photos |
| From: | "Ducati SS" <hiwingflyer6219(at)yahoo.com> |
Seems to be a bit of misunderstanding about my intent for the rib stitching cord.
It had nothing to do with an attempt at strengthening, as john points out the
fabric riveting stabilizes the rib, but the rib has to be moved into the proper
position. If the rib is bowed some means of holding it straight has to be
used before melting the holes and riveting. I was only passing along the two
steps employed to accomplish this. In fact the cord could be cut away after riveting.
Probably many a kolb has had the fabric riveted in what ever position
the rib was in with no ill effects, I just wanted perfectly straight rivet lines.
Many right ways to accomplish most tasks, just thought this might save some
time.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417647#417647
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JC Gilpin <j.gilpin(at)bigpond.com> |
I just have to post a link to this Global Wind
Map<http://earth.nullschool.net/#current/wind/isobaric/1000hPa/orthographic=319.17,48.34,950>
.
I find it fascinating, and useful.
Click and drag to move around.
Scroll to zoom.
Click anywhere for the wind speed.
Enjoy.
JG
http://earth.nullschool.net/#current/wind/isobaric/1000hPa/orthographic=319.17,48.34,950
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dany88" <danielecafaro(at)alice.it> |
Just'll fix that problem of the motion of the wing, put the photos is video. Anyway
thank you all, very kind to all the advice that you gave me. there probably
ask others :)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417663#417663
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: problem firestar |
| From: | "dany88" <danielecafaro(at)alice.it> |
do not understand how to go about the main bolt.
The bushings are brass?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417664#417664
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly covering photos |
Hi,
In the UK the defining point between microlights and Light aircraft is
mainly the weight.
The guy who `helped` me with my construction kept adding bits `to strengthen
things up`. An added fillet here, a brace there. All good reasonable things
to do but the offshoot was that I had a very heavy machine which took some
fancy figuring to get it registered.
Work on the basis that Kolb have been producing planes for a long time and
know what they are doing and just leave things alone.
Pat.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: problem firestar |
| From: | "dany88" <danielecafaro(at)alice.it> |
Do you have any idea how I can remove this motion from the hole of the fork to
the main pivot? :(
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417693#417693
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/foto_cel5_024_115.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: problem firestar |
| From: | B Young <byoungplumbing(at)gmail.com> |
It's the hole too big?
On Jan 27, 2014 12:49 PM, "dany88" wrote:
>
> Do you have any idea how I can remove this motion from the hole of the
> fork to the main pivot? :(
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417693#417693
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/foto_cel5_024_115.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chris davis <capedavis(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Global Wind Map |
Thank u for that I wish i had it when I was fishing for a living , its abso
lutely amazing I think i could look at it all day. Chris =0A=0A=0A-=0AChr
is Davis=0AKXP 503 492 hrs=0AGlider Pilot=0ADisabled from crash building Fi
refly=0A=0A=0A=0AOn Monday, January 27, 2014 9:54 AM, Richard Pike =0A>=0A>Thank you very much for that.=0A>Do not arch
ive.=0A>=0A>--------=0A>Richard Pike=0A>Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)=0A>Ki
ngsport, TN 3TN0=0A>My soul shall be joyful in the LORD; It shall rejoice i
n His salvation. Psalm 35:9=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>Read this topic online here:
=0A>=0A>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417678#417678=0A>=0A>
=====0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: problem firestar |
| From: | "dany88" <danielecafaro(at)alice.it> |
the hole is slightly larger, in practice if witcher well the bolt movement disappears,
but I'm afraid that by folding the wings and rub the two walls over time
can cause damage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417697#417697
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: problem firestar |
| From: | B Young <byoungplumbing(at)gmail.com> |
Been thinking,,, over here we have plastic 1 gallon milk bottles .... If
you cut some o of the very thin plastic from a milk bottle, or a thin
plastic Pepsi or coke bottle and put between the universal joint and the
frame,,, and under the washer on the inside of the universal,,,, then when
it turns when you fold the wings. It should cause no wear.
Boyd
On Jan 27, 2014 1:52 PM, "dany88" wrote:
>
> the hole is slightly larger, in practice if witcher well the bolt movement
> disappears, but I'm afraid that by folding the wings and rub the two walls
> over time can cause damage
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417697#417697
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: problem firestar |
Yes, I used very thin brass shim stock. This will not remove all of the
wear because the bolt and hole both wear. It is never good for steel to
wear on steel. In this case there is wear on the bolt too. The shim stock
can remove the wear from the hole but can not remove the wear from the
bolt.
That is why I proposed the second method to fix the problem. By tapering
the hole through the clevis and compressing and neoprene "O" ring, one can
compress into the wear on the bolt. In doing so the bolt and the clevis
hole do not touch and there is no further wear. The taper can easily be
formed by using a small grinding wheel mounted in a Dremel tool. See
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/tools/Pages/CategoryProducts.aspx?catid 13
If you are concerned about wear on the back side of the clevis place a thin
brass shim stock washer between the clevis and the flange on the fuselage
cage. Do not over tighten and use some thick grease lubricant on the "O"
ring and the washer.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
......................................................................
>
>do not understand how to go about the main bolt.
>The bushings are brass?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: problem firestar |
Boyd,
Checked out possibilities at McMaster Carr. (http://www.mcmaster.com)
Looked at Teflon washers. Part number 95630A505, Low-Friction PTFE Flat
Washer, 1/2" Screw Size, 1.5" OD, .017"-.023" Thick Packages of 10 for
$15.71
And sheets. One side is etched for bonding with adhesive. The other side
has a smooth finish. Part number 8711K91, Sheets Made with Teflon PTFE,
Adhesive Ready, .015" Thick, 6" x 6" $7.81 per sheet
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2014 15:19:26 -0700
From: B Young <byoungplumbing(at)gmail.com>
Been thinking,,, over here we have plastic 1 gallon milk bottles .... If
you cut some o of the very thin plastic from a milk bottle, or a thin
plastic Pepsi or coke bottle and put between the universal joint and the
frame,,, and under the washer on the inside of the universal,,,, then when
it turns when you fold the wings. It should cause no wear.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: problem Firestar |
Kolbers:
I don't think Homer Kolb intended anything between the universal and the
airframe, especially paint, plastic washers, and "o" rings, especially
paint. The end of the universal should be clean as well as the contact
point on the airframe, with a light coat of grease to prevent rust and
assist in rotation during wing fold.
Normally during welding the universal joints, the flat end piece warps a
bit. When I had a problem with a loose joint on an early Kolb I built, I
discovered the paint and primer had worn off after my initial adjustment and
installation, and the end of the universal was slightly domed/convex. I
removed it, got the appropriate tools, whacked it a couple times creating a
slightly concave end piece. Now I had two pieces that mated on flat
surfaces. Next I used a combination of thick (1/16") and thin (1/32") AN
washers to adjust out the slop that I got when the castellated nut was lined
up for the cotter pin. You know how that works. One slot is too tight and
the next is too loose. I have a lot of hours, compared to most Kolbs, on my
MKIII, and I have snug rear attach points on my wings that will rotate
without causing any damage to wing or airframe. A lot of force can be
applied to these parts when rotating the wing if the connection is too
tight.
I personally would not use plastic or rubber to snug up these connections.
My personal opinion only. Don't recommend anyone else doing it the way I
did, but my way has proven to work well over many hours and many years.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: problem Firestar |
Kolbers:
My previous post reminded me of another problem I encountered about 20 years
ago with my MKIII and my first 912 installation on that aircraft. As usual,
I painted the engine mount angle aluminum with plenty primer and paint to
make it look good. The mistake I made was not to mask off the small area
where the mounts contacted the bosses on the engine case. Didn't take long
for vibration to erode the paint and primer causing the four engine mount
bolts to loosen up.
When I swapped the 912ul for a 912uls I alodined the aluminum angle engine
mounts. No more problems.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: problem firestar |
| From: | "dany88" <danielecafaro(at)alice.it> |
Here is a brass plate cutout thin now.
Some photos of the work done for painting
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417822#417822
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cel7_032_478x640_144.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cel7_029_640x490_126.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cel7_037_500x291_160.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cel7_038_640x294_207.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cel7_040_640x463_199.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: problem Firestar |
John,
I do not believe Homer Kolb intended one to tighten the wing universal
assembly bolts after one unfolds the wing prior to flying as you do.
At 200+ hours mine were very loose and worn. I repaired them so that I can
fold the wing as Homer intended without using a wrench to untighten bolts.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
>
>Kolbers:
>
> I don't think Homer Kolb intended anything between the universal and the
>airframe, especially paint, plastic washers, and "o" rings, especially
>paint. The end of the universal should be clean as well as the contact
>point on the airframe, with a light coat of grease to prevent rust and
>assist in rotation during wing fold.
>
.................................................
>I personally would not use plastic or rubber to snug up these connections.
>My personal opinion only. Don't recommend anyone else doing it the way I
>did, but my way has proven to work well over many hours and many years.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Original flightstar gross |
| From: | "lspilot82" <brianrx77(at)gmail.com> |
I just recently purchased an original Firestar with the 5 rib wing. I was wondering
if it will be safe to fly over gross? It weighs in at 330lbs and it has a
6 gal tank with a 447. Right now with my weight and the weight of full fuel,
I'll be about 90lbs over gross. I'm not going to fly it in high winds and will
fly it during calm days, but we all know sometimes you can be as safe as possible
and still fly into some bad things. I just want to know if I'll be ok as
long as I don't push it. Another question is, I seen you can add additional ribs
to the wings. Making a 5 rib wing into a 9 rib wing. I would like to know how
to go about doing that, and if it really is beneficial. I'd rather not buy
a 7 rib wing and just make my 5 rib safer. Are there any videos or anything written
on that. Thanks[/quote]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417840#417840
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 01/29/14 |
| From: | Dan <dpcharter1(at)gmail.com> |
I sold my original FS to a guy many yrs ago that was 90 lbs over gross. I'm not
sure is the wing will take it or not but your CG will be out too far forward.
To my knowledge, he never flew the Kolb.There's allot more knowledgeable people
on the list that can explain.
Dan
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 30, 2014, at 2:02 AM, Kolb-List Digest Server
wrote:
>
> *
>
> =================================================
> Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
> =================================================
>
> Today's complete Kolb-List Digest can also be found in either of the
> two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
> in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
> and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
> of the Kolb-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
> such as Notepad or with a web browser.
>
> HTML Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 14-01-29&Archive=Kolb
>
> Text Version:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 14-01-29&Archive=Kolb
>
>
> ===============================================
> EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
> ===============================================
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Kolb-List Digest Archive
> ---
> Total Messages Posted Wed 01/29/14: 6
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Today's Message Index:
> ----------------------
>
> 1. 05:44 AM - Re: Re: problem firestar (Jack B. Hart)
> 2. 07:55 AM - Re: Re: problem Firestar (John Hauck)
> 3. 08:27 AM - Re: Re: problem Firestar (John Hauck)
> 4. 09:56 AM - Re: problem firestar (dany88)
> 5. 11:37 AM - Re: Re: problem Firestar (Jack B. Hart)
> 6. 02:05 PM - Original flightstar gross (lspilot82)
>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net>
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Re: problem firestar
>
>
> Boyd,
>
> Checked out possibilities at McMaster Carr. (http://www.mcmaster.com)
>
> Looked at Teflon washers. Part number 95630A505, Low-Friction PTFE Flat
> Washer, 1/2" Screw Size, 1.5" OD, .017"-.023" Thick Packages of 10 for
> $15.71
>
> And sheets. One side is etched for bonding with adhesive. The other side
> has a smooth finish. Part number 8711K91, Sheets Made with Teflon PTFE,
> Adhesive Ready, .015" Thick, 6" x 6" $7.81 per sheet
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Winchester, IN
>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
> From: B Young <byoungplumbing(at)gmail.com>
>
> Been thinking,,, over here we have plastic 1 gallon milk bottles .... If
> you cut some o of the very thin plastic from a milk bottle, or a thin
> plastic Pepsi or coke bottle and put between the universal joint and the
> frame,,, and under the washer on the inside of the universal,,,, then when
> it turns when you fold the wings. It should cause no wear.
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: problem Firestar
>
>
> Kolbers:
>
> I don't think Homer Kolb intended anything between the universal and the
> airframe, especially paint, plastic washers, and "o" rings, especially
> paint. The end of the universal should be clean as well as the contact
> point on the airframe, with a light coat of grease to prevent rust and
> assist in rotation during wing fold.
>
> Normally during welding the universal joints, the flat end piece warps a
> bit. When I had a problem with a loose joint on an early Kolb I built, I
> discovered the paint and primer had worn off after my initial adjustment and
> installation, and the end of the universal was slightly domed/convex. I
> removed it, got the appropriate tools, whacked it a couple times creating a
> slightly concave end piece. Now I had two pieces that mated on flat
> surfaces. Next I used a combination of thick (1/16") and thin (1/32") AN
> washers to adjust out the slop that I got when the castellated nut was lined
> up for the cotter pin. You know how that works. One slot is too tight and
> the next is too loose. I have a lot of hours, compared to most Kolbs, on my
> MKIII, and I have snug rear attach points on my wings that will rotate
> without causing any damage to wing or airframe. A lot of force can be
> applied to these parts when rotating the wing if the connection is too
> tight.
>
> I personally would not use plastic or rubber to snug up these connections.
> My personal opinion only. Don't recommend anyone else doing it the way I
> did, but my way has proven to work well over many hours and many years.
>
> john h
> mkIII
> Titus, Alabama
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: problem Firestar
>
>
> Kolbers:
>
> My previous post reminded me of another problem I encountered about 20 years
> ago with my MKIII and my first 912 installation on that aircraft. As usual,
> I painted the engine mount angle aluminum with plenty primer and paint to
> make it look good. The mistake I made was not to mask off the small area
> where the mounts contacted the bosses on the engine case. Didn't take long
> for vibration to erode the paint and primer causing the four engine mount
> bolts to loosen up.
>
> When I swapped the 912ul for a 912uls I alodined the aluminum angle engine
> mounts. No more problems.
>
> john h
> mkIII
> Titus, Alabama
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: problem firestar
> From: "dany88" <danielecafaro(at)alice.it>
>
>
> Here is a brass plate cutout thin now.
> Some photos of the work done for painting
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417822#417822
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/cel7_032_478x640_144.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/cel7_029_640x490_126.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/cel7_037_500x291_160.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/cel7_038_640x294_207.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/cel7_040_640x463_199.jpg
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________
>
>
> From: "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net>
> Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Re: problem Firestar
>
>
> John,
>
> I do not believe Homer Kolb intended one to tighten the wing universal
> assembly bolts after one unfolds the wing prior to flying as you do.
>
> At 200+ hours mine were very loose and worn. I repaired them so that I can
> fold the wing as Homer intended without using a wrench to untighten bolts.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Winchester, IN
>
>
>>
>> Kolbers:
>>
>> I don't think Homer Kolb intended anything between the universal and the
>> airframe, especially paint, plastic washers, and "o" rings, especially
>> paint. The end of the universal should be clean as well as the contact
>> point on the airframe, with a light coat of grease to prevent rust and
>> assist in rotation during wing fold.
>>
> .................................................
>
>> I personally would not use plastic or rubber to snug up these connections.
>> My personal opinion only. Don't recommend anyone else doing it the way I
>> did, but my way has proven to work well over many hours and many years.
>>
>
>
> ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________
>
>
> Subject: Kolb-List: Original flightstar gross
> From: "lspilot82" <brianrx77(at)gmail.com>
>
>
> I just recently purchased an original Firestar with the 5 rib wing. I was wondering
> if it will be safe to fly over gross? It weighs in at 330lbs and it has a
> 6 gal tank with a 447. Right now with my weight and the weight of full fuel,
> I'll be about 90lbs over gross. I'm not going to fly it in high winds and will
> fly it during calm days, but we all know sometimes you can be as safe as possible
> and still fly into some bad things. I just want to know if I'll be ok as
> long as I don't push it. Another question is, I seen you can add additional ribs
> to the wings. Making a 5 rib wing into a 9 rib wing. I would like to know how
> to go about doing that, and if it really is beneficial. I'd rather not buy
> a 7 rib wing and just make my 5 rib safer. Are there any videos or anything written
> on that. Thanks[/quote]
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417840#417840
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: problem firestar |
| From: | "dany88" <danielecafaro(at)alice.it> |
Work performed perfectly, the joint is not more movement, as you can see from this video http://youtu.be/AHbFpa_Q9NQ
I am attaching a few pictures
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417874#417874
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/foto_cel_0_019_640x477_203.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/foto_cel_0_006_640x411_121.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/foto_cel_0_003_578x640_873.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: problem firestar |
| From: | "dany88" <danielecafaro(at)alice.it> |
How do I replace the main gear?
I unscrewed the bolt near the hub and the bolt inside the fuselage, but not sfilla
the bar of aluminum.
Why?
how can I do?
I enclose a photo
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417877#417877
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cel_4_014_2_580x718_520.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cel_4_015_2_145.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brad Nation <nationcap(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Brakes Not holding |
Im having problems with my brakes not holding on my MKIII Xtra with a 912 80ph
Rotax. They system is dual hydraulic Matco brakes. At first the calipers werent
extending and retracting and I noticed that they were gunned up so I cleaned
them with WD40, a green scrubby, and a tooth brush. Now they seem to be working,
at least the pistons move in and back out slightly as they self adjust. The
pads and disks dont appear to be warped and the pads still have a good amount
of wear on them. I have also bled them. As I didnt know any better at the time
I bled them in the same manner as car brakes. I have taken the wheel off and
removed the disk and made sure the pistons were working properly. There doesnt
seem to be any air in the lines.
Could I have gotten WD40 on the pads? I suppose that is possible.
They seem to work ok on the pre-purchase flight. The aircraft was trailered to
its current home.
Any suggestions would be most helpful.
Thanks in Advance,
Brad
N952DK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes Not holding |
=C2- Brad- WD-40 will creep everywhere.=C2- Get a couple of cans of Bra
ke Kleen from the auto parts store and thoroughly hose them down.=C2- It'
s a common, and cheap, brake parts de-greaser.=C2- Works great.=0A=0A=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- Bill Sullivan=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0A________________________________=0A From: Brad Nation <nationcap@comcast
.net>=0ATo: Kolb-list =0ASent: Thursday, January
30, 2014 7:48 PM=0ASubject: Kolb-List: Brakes Not holding=0A =0A=0A--> Kolb
-List message posted by: Brad Nation =0A=0AI
=99m having problems with my brakes not holding on my MKIII Xtra with a 912
80ph Rotax. They system is dual hydraulic Matco brakes. At first the calip
ers weren=99t extending and retracting and I noticed that they were g
unned up so I cleaned them with WD40, a green scrubby, and a tooth brush. N
ow they seem to be working, at least the pistons move in and back out sligh
tly as they self adjust.=C2- The pads and disks don=99t appear to b
e warped and the pads still have a good amount of wear on them. I have also
bled them. As I didn=99t know any better at the time I bled them in
the same manner as car brakes. I have taken the wheel off and removed the d
isk and made sure the pistons were working properly. There doesn=99t
seem to be any air in the lines.=0ACould I have gotten WD40 on the pads? I
suppose that is possible.=0AThey seem to work ok on the pre-purchase flight
.=C2- The aircraft was trailered to it=99s current home.=0AAny sugg
estions would be most helpful.=0A=0AThanks in Advance,=0ABrad=0AN952DK=0A
=========================0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | landing gear firestar |
| From: | "dany88" <danielecafaro(at)alice.it> |
How do I replace the main landing gear?
I unscrewed the bolt near the hub and the bolt inside the fuselage, but not sfilla
the bar of aluminum.
Why?
how can I do?
I enclose a photo
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417933#417933
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cel_4_015_2_437.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/cel_4_014_2_580x718_174.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: landing gear firestar |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Dany
Try applying penetrating oil through the bolt holes inside the fuselage. It seems
your gear legs are corroded to the steel sockets. Also apply some around the
gear legs where they protrude from the steel sockets.
Raise the fuselage and put a steel rod or a screwdriver through the lower bolt
hole that holds the axle socket to the gear leg and twist and pull from there.
You may want to try tapping down on the steel rod or screwdriver with a hammer
also.
Make sure you grease your new gear legs before assembly to avoid this in the future.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Jan 31, 2014, at 3:57 AM, "dany88" wrote:
>
>
> How do I replace the main landing gear?
> I unscrewed the bolt near the hub and the bolt inside the fuselage, but not sfilla
the bar of aluminum.
> Why?
> how can I do?
>
> I enclose a photo
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417933#417933
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/cel_4_015_2_437.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/cel_4_014_2_580x718_174.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Brakes Not holding |
Matcos float, both sides.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stuart Harner" <stuart(at)harnerfarm.net> |
| Subject: | Firefly flap question |
OK guys, with the aileron in the neutral position, when you go to full
flaps, how far does the trailing edge of the flaps drop?
The reason I ask is I am working on the flaperon handle. I clamped
everything in place to make sure it was all aligned properly before drilling
and riveting. With the slider all the way back (handle in the down most
slot) everything lines up fine. When I move the handle to the uppermost
slot (full flaps) the slider only moves a little more than halfway of
non-painted area of the torque tube.
So, is there more travel on the torque tube than needed, or does the flap
handle bracket not allow enough travel?
>From the plans, total trailing edge movement of the ailerons is 8" (4" up
and 4" down). This seems a little small when looking at the ailerons, but
about right when looking at the joystick. So, if a 4" drop is normal for
aileron deflection, what is normal for flap deflection?
Thanks in advance,
Stuart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Firefly flap question |
Should be about 40 degrees full down and 20 degrees half down. Or, I should
say, the flaps on my MKIII operate to those limits. I feel like it is a
near perfect rigging.
4 inches up and down travel of the ailerons seems to be about right. I'd
have to go over to the airstrip and measure mine to be sure.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stuart Harner
Sent: Friday, January 31, 2014 8:04 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Firefly flap question
OK guys, with the aileron in the neutral position, when you go to full
flaps, how far does the trailing edge of the flaps drop?
The reason I ask is I am working on the flaperon handle. I clamped
everything in place to make sure it was all aligned properly before drilling
and riveting. With the slider all the way back (handle in the down most
slot) everything lines up fine. When I move the handle to the uppermost
slot (full flaps) the slider only moves a little more than halfway of
non-painted area of the torque tube.
So, is there more travel on the torque tube than needed, or does the flap
handle bracket not allow enough travel?
>From the plans, total trailing edge movement of the ailerons is 8" (4" up
and 4" down). This seems a little small when looking at the ailerons, but
about right when looking at the joystick. So, if a 4" drop is normal for
aileron deflection, what is normal for flap deflection?
Thanks in advance,
Stuart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford " <beauford173(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Firefly flap question |
Brother Harner:
Mine droop about 2.5 inches at the trailing edge, but I have the original
fifteen inch chord flaperons.
Your results may vary with the shorter ailerons in the current plans.
Worth what ye paid fer it.
Beauford
FF-076
Brandon, FL
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stuart Harner
Sent: Friday, January 31, 2014 9:04 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Firefly flap question
OK guys, with the aileron in the neutral position, when you go to full
flaps, how far does the trailing edge of the flaps drop?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Firefly flap question |
Sorry Kolbers. Disregard my response below. I thought we were talking
about MKIII's.
Getting old ain't for sissies.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hauck
Sent: Friday, January 31, 2014 8:19 PM
Subject: RE: Kolb-List: Firefly flap question
Should be about 40 degrees full down and 20 degrees half down. Or, I should
say, the flaps on my MKIII operate to those limits. I feel like it is a
near perfect rigging.
4 inches up and down travel of the ailerons seems to be about right. I'd
have to go over to the airstrip and measure mine to be sure.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stuart Harner
Sent: Friday, January 31, 2014 8:04 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Firefly flap question
OK guys, with the aileron in the neutral position, when you go to full
flaps, how far does the trailing edge of the flaps drop?
The reason I ask is I am working on the flaperon handle. I clamped
everything in place to make sure it was all aligned properly before drilling
and riveting. With the slider all the way back (handle in the down most
slot) everything lines up fine. When I move the handle to the uppermost
slot (full flaps) the slider only moves a little more than halfway of
non-painted area of the torque tube.
So, is there more travel on the torque tube than needed, or does the flap
handle bracket not allow enough travel?
>From the plans, total trailing edge movement of the ailerons is 8" (4" up
and 4" down). This seems a little small when looking at the ailerons, but
about right when looking at the joystick. So, if a 4" drop is normal for
aileron deflection, what is normal for flap deflection?
Thanks in advance,
Stuart
- The Kolb-List Email Forum -
--> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
- MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
--> http://forums.matronics.com
- List Contribution Web Site -
Thank you for your generous support!
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
--> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brakes Not holding |
| From: | "Rex Rodebush" <jrrodebush(at)gmail.com> |
I have the same problem with poor braking. I ordered new wheels and brakes from
Matco about 2 weeks ago. They have beefed up the wheel thickness because of
some cracking problems. They also increased the caliper piston area about 30%.
I also ordered a new set of brake pedals from Travis. They have a much higher
mechanical advantage than the old design. (My Xtra was ordered about 13-14
years ago).
Hopefully I'll have good brakes when all is installed.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417980#417980
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Firefly flap questionFirefly flap... |
Nick C/Kolbers:
Jimmy Young, down in Texas, is now owner of Paul Petty/Charlie Harris
Kolbra. That Kolbra has flaps. You can contact Jimmy for more info if
required. Jimmy's email is:
jdy100(at)comcast.net
BTW: I plan to be in Alaska this Summer. You are located in Palmer? Plan
to visit with Jim Stocker while in the Anchorage area. Jim lives on the
Knik River. I spent a week with him my last flight up in 2004. Has a
gravel strip on the river bank. It is called Shelby Strip. You can find it
on Google is you are not familiar with it.
Contact me b/c. Don't want to clutter up the Kolb List.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
Thank you John!
I am presently building my flaps and ailerons for my Kolbra. You were kind
enough to answer a question I have been meaning to ask! Age brings insight
and wisdom!
Thanks,
Nick Cassara
Palmer, Alaska
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firefly flap questionFirefly flap... |
| From: | "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)wildblue.net> |
What do you mean, it's not rocket science
--------
Rick Lewis
(VW Watercooled Engine)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417988#417988
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly flap questionFirefly flap... |
Hi Rick L/Kolbers:
If you are referring to Nick C's Kolbra, it is not rocket science, but one
must be talented enough to come up with their own design to hang flaps on
it. The stock Kolbra is not equipped with flaps. As far as I know Paul
Petty's Kolbra was the first. Nick C's is the second, unless there is
someone out there building a Kolbra that equipped it with flaps that I have
not heard of.
A little more difficult to hang flaps on the Kolbra than the MKIII.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
What do you mean, it's not rocket science
--------
Rick Lewis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Bearden" <gab16(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brakes Not holding |
> If that is the case, use a little, a very little, bit of grease on the
pins and make sure the caliper moves easily on them.
I doubt that you will get your brakes really hot, but to be on the safe side
there exists special high temp grease for lubing brake parts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firefly flap question |
| From: | "Ducati SS" <hiwingflyer6219(at)yahoo.com> |
I placed a tie wrap on the control tube and cycled the flaps full up to full down
- 1 5/8 " total travel.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417992#417992
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stuart Harner" <stuart(at)harnerfarm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly flap question |
That sounds about right. I will compare to my Firefly next work day in the
shop. I know that the area of the torque tube that was not powder coated
was about twice that length, but maybe the slider is not supposed to move
that far.
Thanks for the help.
Stuart
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ducati SS
Sent: Sunday, February 02, 2014 7:53 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Firefly flap question
I placed a tie wrap on the control tube and cycled the flaps full up to full
down - 1 5/8 " total travel.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=417992#417992
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duane Ransdell <radiobluebook(at)gmail.com> |
Hi Group,
A while back (maybe a year or so ago) someone posted some videos made by a
gentleman who flew from place to place in his Kolb and gave rides. He took
video of those rides and interviewed the people who went with him. He had a
whole bunch of videos that he had produced posted to his website. I looked
back through my archives, but was unable to find them. Can someone point me
in the right direction? I'd like to play some of them at our next chapter
meeting.
Thanks in advance,
Duane
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Private message |
| From: | "olendorf" <olendorf(at)gmail.com> |
It is MIKE WELCH
this is the email associated mdnanwelch7(at)hotmail.com
--------
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 447, Powerfin prop
Schenectady, NY
http://sites.google.com/site/kolbfirestar/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418183#418183
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stuart Harner" <stuart(at)harnerfarm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly flap question- update |
Guys,
After a little bending and fitting the flap handle bracket does limit the
travel of the slider to 1-5/8". This translates to a maximum downward
deflection of only 6.5.
This seems a bit small since most of the things I fly that have flaps use
10 as the first notch. 6.5 may well be enough to do the job. I won't
know until flight testing.
Thanks for the help,
Stuart
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ducati SS
Sent: Sunday, February 02, 2014 7:53 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Firefly flap question
I placed a tie wrap on the control tube and cycled the flaps full up to full
down - 1 5/8 " total travel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dcharter" <dpcharter1(at)gmail.com> |
Hi, I'm currently flying a "47" Luscombe 8A. There's nothing wrong with it. Has
some pealing paint but it flys nice. Kinda big and heavy compared to what I'm
used to. Anybody want to trade their 912 powered Kolb for a Luscombe? You can
email me or text me(I'm on nights tonight,7-7) at (218) 969-1538
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418280#418280
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Samuel Briseno <litefly(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Firefly for sale |
My Firefly that is for sale, is now listed on Barnstormers.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stuart Harner" <stuart(at)harnerfarm.net> |
| Subject: | fabric gluing question |
Guys,
The Poly Fiber manual says to put two coats of thinned Poly Brush on the
surfaces that you will be gluing to, before gluing with Poly Tac. It says
that this provides a bedding for the Poly Tac.
The Firefly manual says to pre-coat the surfaces with a thin coat of Poly
Tac. No mention of Poly Brush.
I don't see any advantage to using Poly Brush on a metal surface. There may
be a need for it on a wood structure that was not sealed.
I have been experimenting with scrape frames and some old glue and fabric I
had from another project. Just re-learning things and getting my methods
down before diving in to the real thing. Even if practice doesn't make
perfect, it can't hurt, right?
Anyway, what method did you use, Poly Brush bedding or no?
Thanks in advance,
Stuart
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | william sullivan <williamtsullivan(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: fabric gluing question |
=C2- I used a method recommended by another builder.=C2- I just brushed
two coats of Poly Tac on the metal, and let dry.=C2- Pulled the fabric o
ver it, brushed some MEK on the fabric, and rubbed a gloved finger on it.
=C2- Worked great, and if you goof you can loosen it with MEK and pull st
raight.=C2- Almost instant.=C2- Afterwards, you can flatten with an iro
n.=C2- Simple and easy.=C2- You will enjoy doing this.=C2- Like you,
I suspect the Poly Brush is to seal wood.=0A=0A=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- Bill Sullivan=0A=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2- Windsor
Locks, Ct.=0A=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-
=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2-=C2
-=C2-=C2-=C2- FS 447=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________
=0A From: Stuart Harner <stuart(at)harnerfarm.net>=0ATo: kolb-list(at)matronics.c
om =0ASent: Thursday, February 13, 2014 10:45 AM=0ASubject: Kolb-List: fabr
ic gluing question=0A =0A=0A=0AGuys,=0A=C2-=0AThe Poly Fiber manual says
to put two coats of thinned Poly Brush on the surfaces that you will be glu
ing to, before gluing with Poly Tac.=C2- It says that this provides a bed
ding for the Poly Tac. =0A=C2-=0AThe Firefly manual says to pre-coat the
surfaces with a thin coat of Poly Tac.=C2- No mention of Poly Brush.=0A
=C2-=0AI don=99t see any advantage to using Poly Brush on a metal s
urface.=C2- There may be a need for it on a wood structure that was not s
ealed.=0A=C2-=0AI have been experimenting with scrape frames and some old
glue and fabric I had from another project.=C2- Just re-learning things
and getting my methods down before diving in to the real thing.=C2- Even
if practice doesn=99t make perfect, it can=99t hurt, right?=0A
=C2-=0AAnyway, what method did you use, Poly Brush bedding or no?=0A=C2
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jon LaVasseur <firestar503(at)yahoo.com> |
I am trying to connect with Arizona Flyer near Casas Grande. AZ.- Please
contact me off list at firestar503@yahoocom.-=0A-=0AJon L=0AMinnesota/A
rizona
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Arizona Flyer |
| From: | "Arizona Flyer" <heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com> |
Kolb list; This is Arizona Flyer, I just saw this and sent Jon an e-mail.
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418806#418806
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Arizona Flyer |
What did you see?
-----Original Message-----
From: Arizona Flyer <heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sun, Feb 16, 2014 12:52 pm
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Arizona Flyer
Kolb list; This is Arizona Flyer, I just saw this and sent Jon an e-mail.
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through
life
just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418806#418806
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KIRBY, DENNIS T GS-13 USAF AFMC AFNWC/ENS" <dennis.kirby.3(at)us.af.mil> |
Kolb Friends -
On a recent visit to lonely airport in southern New Mexico this past weekend, the
airport manager had lots of questions about my Mark-3, which I had just flown
in. He told me there was one like it parked in a hangar there, which the owner
wanted to sell. I told him I'd be happy to take a look at it.
He rolled open the hangar door, and there sat a sad, dusty, early-model Mark-3
with two flat tires. The airport guy told me the owner was old and ailing, and
it had not flown it in six years. I inspected it closely, and discovered that
it was in fact a well-built airplane.
It appeared very straight, and had no evidence of damage. The fabric was pristine,
even if covered in a thick layer of dust. I looked closely at the areas
typically prone to wear and damage, like the landing gear legs, the gear leg sockets,
and the steel tail post structure. All looked good. The tailwheel was
not the stock pizza-cutter type that comes from Kolb, but rather the upgraded
full-swiveling unit with the inch-wide wheel. It looked hardly used at all.
From all I could see, this aircraft has been well-preserved from all its years
being stored in the dry, desert environment of southern New Mexico - no corrosion.
The interior was quite spartan, with bare aluminum floor pans and simple fabric
sling seats with minimal padding. Instruments were basic analog types, and looked
old. It had the single center-mounted control stick. Engine was a 582.
The whole aircraft was painted an ugly shade of red, including the nose cone,
wing struts, tail-bracing wires, and boom tube. Kinda like the guy built the
airplane, then painted every inch of the exterior.
Here's the kicker - it's not N-numbered. We all know this category of aircraft
in now in the "lawn ornament" category, or else it could have value for salvage
parts. So the owner should not expect offers of great sums of money for his
Kolb. He indicated that he was hoping to get about $5000 for it, but in light
of the current situation with registration, will likely not be offered that
much. That said ...
I see a potential opportunity here for somebody getting a good Mark-3 for cheap,
if you're willing to do a bit of restoration work. If it were me, I would disassemble
it, strip off all the fabric, remove the engine and all the old instruments
and wiring, and start over from there. Take some pictures of the airplane
parts in its bare-bones state, and approach the FAA as if it were a newly-constructed
kit. Get it registered in the Experimental/Amateur-Built category.
It would be WAY cheaper - and faster - than starting from ground zero from
a kit. Several kit builders have done it this way since the FAA's grace period
to register fat ultralights has passed, in 2008.
If anyone is interested, let me know. I am happy to provide the contact info for
the airport manager.
Dennis Kirby
Mark-3/912
Sandia Park, NM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | K I <wrk2win4u(at)msn.com> |
Hi Dennis=2C
I am seeking a Kolb Mark III. I would like to talk to you about it ASAP.
Please call me or give me a number to call you.
Thanks=2C
Kurt Imig
Sandy=2C Utah
801-502-7016
> From: dennis.kirby.3(at)us.af.mil
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kolb-List: Mark-3 for Sale
> Date: Tue=2C 18 Feb 2014 18:13:37 +0000
>
/ENS"
>
> Kolb Friends -
>
> On a recent visit to lonely airport in southern New Mexico this past week
end=2C the airport manager had lots of questions about my Mark-3=2C which I
had just flown in. He told me there was one like it parked in a hangar th
ere=2C which the owner wanted to sell. I told him I'd be happy to take a l
ook at it.
>
> He rolled open the hangar door=2C and there sat a sad=2C dusty=2C early-m
odel Mark-3 with two flat tires. The airport guy told me the owner was old
and ailing=2C and it had not flown it in six years. I inspected it closel
y=2C and discovered that it was in fact a well-built airplane.
>
> It appeared very straight=2C and had no evidence of damage. The fabric w
as pristine=2C even if covered in a thick layer of dust. I looked closely
at the areas typically prone to wear and damage=2C like the landing gear le
gs=2C the gear leg sockets=2C and the steel tail post structure. All looke
d good. The tailwheel was not the stock pizza-cutter type that comes from
Kolb=2C but rather the upgraded full-swiveling unit with the inch-wide whee
l. It looked hardly used at all. From all I could see=2C this aircraft ha
s been well-preserved from all its years being stored in the dry=2C desert
environment of southern New Mexico - no corrosion.
>
> The interior was quite spartan=2C with bare aluminum floor pans and simpl
e fabric sling seats with minimal padding. Instruments were basic analog t
ypes=2C and looked old. It had the single center-mounted control stick. E
ngine was a 582. The whole aircraft was painted an ugly shade of red=2C in
cluding the nose cone=2C wing struts=2C tail-bracing wires=2C and boom tube
. Kinda like the guy built the airplane=2C then painted every inch of the
exterior.
>
> Here's the kicker - it's not N-numbered. We all know this category of ai
rcraft in now in the "lawn ornament" category=2C or else it could have valu
e for salvage parts. So the owner should not expect offers of great sums o
f money for his Kolb. He indicated that he was hoping to get about $5000 f
or it=2C but in light of the current situation with registration=2C will li
kely not be offered that much. That said ...
>
> I see a potential opportunity here for somebody getting a good Mark-3 for
cheap=2C if you're willing to do a bit of restoration work. If it were me
=2C I would disassemble it=2C strip off all the fabric=2C remove the engine
and all the old instruments and wiring=2C and start over from there. Take
some pictures of the airplane parts in its bare-bones state=2C and approac
h the FAA as if it were a newly-constructed kit. Get it registered in the
Experimental/Amateur-Built category. It would be WAY cheaper - and faster
- than starting from ground zero from a kit. Several kit builders have don
e it this way since the FAA's grace period to register fat ultralights has
passed=2C in 2008.
>
> If anyone is interested=2C let me know. I am happy to provide the contac
t info for the airport manager.
>
> Dennis Kirby
> Mark-3/912
> Sandia Park=2C NM
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Arizona Flyer |
| From: | "Arizona Flyer" <heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com> |
fs2kolb(at)aol.com wrote:
> What did you see?
>
>
> --
It's self explanatory. Carefully read the 1st message, then read the 2nd message
and the mystery may be solved for you.
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418951#418951
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Arizona Flyer |
| From: | undoctor <undoctor(at)ptd.net> |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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Arizona Flyer |
| From: | "olendorf" <olendorf(at)gmail.com> |
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418951#418951
I think for the people that use the web site it is very confusing to the people
who just get email.
Go to that link above and start using the web site. It's way more useful than the
email system.
The link for the Kolb List Topics; http://forums.matronics.com/viewforum.php?f=5
--------
Scott Olendorf
Original Firestar, Rotax 447, Powerfin prop
Schenectady, NY
http://sites.google.com/site/kolbfirestar/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=418990#418990
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: new michigan group |
| From: | Roy Spangler <roy.spangler(at)kirtland.edu> |
Brubakers,
Put me on your list
roy
On Fri, Jan 24, 2014 at 6:00 PM, Malcolm Brubaker wrote:
> MULA is hostinga safty seminar at the Lapeer Dupont airport in
> march22ed 10 am
>
> This is your link to flymichigan group
> https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/flymichigan
> a old school approach yahoo groups can help keep you in touch with and
> meet michigan pilots and $100 hamburger want to bees, our idea is simple
> put as many people as possible in touch with this group. posting is easy
> ,with in 30 minutes of posting this group and inviting others to join a guy
> 25 miles from me that i did not know contacted me by joining. he owns a
> ppc but hasn't flown in 3 years because he didn't know anyone close to
> him
> https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/flymichigan
> Malcolm & Jeanne Brubaker
>
> Malcolm & Jeanne Brubaker
> Michigan Sport Pilot Repair
> http://michigansportpilotrepair.com/
> LSRM-A, PPC, WS
> Great Sails - Sailmaker
> for Ultralight & Light Sport
> (989)513-3022
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Malcolm Brubaker <brubakermal(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new michigan group |
Roy-- just go to this link https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/flymichi
gan.=0Ai cant sign you up they would still send you a confermation request
any way-- =0Awelcome abord- roy---- i had 2 kolbs flew both o
ver 200hrs =0A=0AMalcolm & Jeanne Brubaker =0AMichigan Sport Pilot Repair
=0Ahttp://michigansportpilotrepair.com/ =0ALSRM-A, PPC, WS=0AGreat Sails -
Sailmaker =0Afor Ultralight & Light Sport=0A(989)513-3022 =0A- =0A=0A=0A
=0A =0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Roy Spangler <roy.spang
ler(at)kirtland.edu>=0ATo: kolb-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Wednesday, Februar
y 19, 2014 11:21 AM=0ASubject: Re: Kolb-List: new michigan group=0A =0A=0A
=0ABrubakers,=0A=0APut me on your list=0A=0Aroy=0A=0A=0A=0AOn Fri, Jan 24,
2014 at 6:00 PM, Malcolm Brubaker wrote:=0A=0A-
---- MULA is hostinga safty seminar at the Lapeer Dupont airport in
march22ed 10 am =0A>=0A>This is your link to flymichigan group https://gro
ups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/flymichigan =0A>a old school approach yahoo group
s can help keep you in touch with -and meet michigan pilots and $100 hamb
urger want to bees, our idea is simple put as many people as possible in to
uch with this group. posting is easy ,with in 30 minutes of posting this
group and inviting others to join a guy 25 miles from me that i did not kn
ow contacted me by joining. he owns a ppc but hasn't flown in 3 years beca
use he didn't know anyone close to him =0A>https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/g
roups/flymichigan =0A>Malcolm & Jeanne Brubaker =0A>=0A>Malcolm & Jeanne Br
ubaker =0A>Michigan Sport Pilot Repair =0A>http://michigansportpilotrepair
.com/ =0A>LSRM-A, PPC, WS=0A>Great Sails - Sailmaker =0A>for Ultralight & L
ight Sport=0A>(989)513-3022 =0A>- =0A>=0A>=0A> =0A>get="_blank">http://
www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List=0Atp://forums.matronics.com=0A_blank"
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gliderx5(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: new michigan group |
Hey Mal,
The link takes me to 404 page not found!
Malcolm Morrison
----- Original Message -----
From: "Malcolm Brubaker" <brubakermal(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2014 7:03:50 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: new michigan group
Roy just go to this link https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/flymichigan .
i cant sign you up they would still send you a confermation request any way
welcome abord roy i had 2 kolbs flew both over 200hrs
Malcolm & Jeanne Brubaker
Michigan Sport Pilot Repair
http://michigansportpilotrepair.com/
LSRM-A, PPC, WS
Great Sails - Sailmaker
for Ultralight & Light Sport
(989)513-3022
From: Roy Spangler <roy.spangler(at)kirtland.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2014 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: new michigan group
Brubakers,
Put me on your list
roy
On Fri, Jan 24, 2014 at 6:00 PM, Malcolm Brubaker < brubakermal(at)yahoo.com > wrote:
MULA is hostinga safty seminar at the Lapeer Dupont airport in march22ed 10 am
This is your link to flymichigan group https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/flymichigan
a old school approach yahoo groups can help keep you in touch with and meet michigan
pilots and $100 hamburger want to bees, our idea is simple put as many people
as possible in touch with this group. posting is easy ,with in 30 minutes
of posting this group and inviting others to join a guy 25 miles from me that
i did not know contacted me by joining. he owns a ppc but hasn't flown in 3
years because he didn't know anyone close to him
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/flymichigan
Malcolm & Jeanne Brubaker
Malcolm & Jeanne Brubaker
Michigan Sport Pilot Repair
http://michigansportpilotrepair.com/
LSRM-A, PPC, WS
Great Sails - Sailmaker
for Ultralight & Light Sport
(989)513-3022
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Malcolm Brubaker <brubakermal(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | im working on it |
=0Ayes i am Roy- working on- it=0A=0AMalcolm & Jeanne Brubaker =0AMichi
gan Sport Pilot Repair =0Ahttp://michigansportpilotrepair.com/ =0ALSRM-A,
PPC, WS=0AGreat Sails - Sailmaker =0Afor Ultralight & Light Sport=0A(989)51
3-3022 =0A- =0A=0A=0A=0A =0A=0A________________________________=0A From:
Malcolm Brubaker =0ATo: "kolb-list(at)matronics.com" =0ASent: Wednesday, February 19, 2014 7:03 PM=0ASub
ject: Re: Kolb-List: new michigan group=0A =0A=0A=0ARoy-- just go to t
his link https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/flymichigan.=0Ai cant sign you
up they would still send you a confermation request any way-- =0Awelco
me abord- roy---- i had 2 kolbs flew both over 200hrs =0A=0AMalco
lm & Jeanne Brubaker =0AMichigan Sport Pilot Repair =0Ahttp://michiganspor
tpilotrepair.com/ =0ALSRM-A, PPC, WS=0AGreat Sails - Sailmaker =0Afor Ultra
light & Light Sport=0A(989)513-3022 =0A- =0A=0A=0A=0A =0A=0A_____________
___________________=0A From: Roy Spangler <roy.spangler(at)kirtland.edu>=0ATo:
kolb-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Wednesday, February 19, 2014 11:21 AM=0AS
ubject: Re: Kolb-List: new michigan group=0A =0A=0A=0ABrubakers,=0A=0APut
me on your list=0A=0Aroy=0A=0A=0A=0AOn Fri, Jan 24, 2014 at 6:00 PM, Malcol
m Brubaker wrote:=0A=0A----- MULA is host
inga safty seminar at the Lapeer Dupont airport in march22ed 10 am =0A>=0A>
This is your link to flymichigan group https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/
flymichigan =0A>a old school approach yahoo groups can help keep you in to
uch with -and meet michigan pilots and $100 hamburger want to bees, our i
dea is simple put as many people as possible in touch with this group. pos
ting is easy ,with in 30 minutes of posting this group and inviting other
s to join a guy 25 miles from me that i did not know contacted me by joinin
g. he owns a ppc but hasn't flown in 3 years because he didn't know anyone
close to him =0A>https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/flymichigan =0A>Mal
colm & Jeanne Brubaker =0A>=0A>Malcolm & Jeanne Brubaker =0A>Michigan Sport
Pilot Repair =0A>http://michigansportpilotrepair.com/ =0A>LSRM-A, PPC, WS
=0A>Great Sails - Sailmaker =0A>for Ultralight & Light Sport=0A>(989)513-30
22 =0A>- =0A>=0A>=0A> =0A>get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigat
or?Kolb-List=0Atp://forums.matronics.com=0A_blank">http://www.matronics.com
=====================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Malcolm Brubaker <brubakermal(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: new michigan group |
https://groups.yahoo.com/group/flymichigan=0A=0Athe one you had has the wor
d neo in it this link works- good luck =0A=0AMalcolm & Jeanne Brubaker
=0AMichigan Sport Pilot Repair =0Ahttp://michigansportpilotrepair.com/ =0A
LSRM-A, PPC, WS=0AGreat Sails - Sailmaker =0Afor Ultralight & Light Sport
=0A(989)513-3022 =0A- =0A=0A=0A=0A =0A=0A________________________________
=0A From: Roy Spangler <roy.spangler(at)kirtland.edu>=0ATo: kolb-list@matronic
s.com =0ASent: Wednesday, February 19, 2014 11:21 AM=0ASubject: Re: Kolb-Li
st: new michigan group=0A =0A=0A=0ABrubakers,=0A=0APut me on your list=0A
=0Aroy=0A=0A=0A=0AOn Fri, Jan 24, 2014 at 6:00 PM, Malcolm Brubaker wrote:=0A=0A----- MULA is hostinga safty seminar
at the Lapeer Dupont airport in march22ed 10 am =0A>=0A>This is your link
to flymichigan group https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/flymichigan =0A>a
old school approach yahoo groups can help keep you in touch with -and me
et michigan pilots and $100 hamburger want to bees, our idea is simple put
as many people as possible in touch with this group. posting is easy ,wi
th in 30 minutes of posting this group and inviting others to join a guy 25
miles from me that i did not know contacted me by joining. he owns a ppc b
ut hasn't flown in 3 years because he didn't know anyone close to him
=0A>https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/flymichigan =0A>Malcolm & Jeanne Br
ubaker =0A>=0A>Malcolm & Jeanne Brubaker =0A>Michigan Sport Pilot Repair
=0A>http://michigansportpilotrepair.com/ =0A>LSRM-A, PPC, WS=0A>Great Sails
- Sailmaker =0A>for Ultralight & Light Sport=0A>(989)513-3022 =0A>- =0A>
=0A>=0A> =0A>get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List=0A
tp://forums.matronics.com=0A_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=============
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Buy Samsung Note 3+Gear$600/Samsung Galaxy S4 IV$420 |
| From: | "wabbss" <wales.bale(at)yahoo.com> |
WE GLADLY WELCOME!! YOU TO MURTEN STORE LIMITED
MURTEN STORE LIMITED NOW OFFER A ANNUAL SALE!!!
We are dealers of all kinds of Mobile Phones Such as Apple Iphone, Blackberry,
Nokia, Samsung, HTC, Sony Ericsson and many more. All our products are brand new,
Original, comes with complete accessories and they also come with 1 year international
warranty.
We also give 90 days return policy on every products that has been paid for and
delivered to it owner, if within this days your equipment develop any fault or
damages you can return it back to us: We make shipment through FedEx Express/UPS/DHL
Services within 48hrs to your doorstep.
Buy 2 Get 1 Free
Buy 3 Get 1 Free + Free Shipping
Buy 5 Get 2 Free + Free Shipping
Contact :: Mr Stephen Clive Murray
Store :: Mobile & Gadgets Department
PLACE YOUR ORDER WITH US @ MURTEN STORE LTD
For purchase enquiry you can contact us via any email below SATISFACTION GUARANTEED
Contact Name : Stephen Clive Murray
Email : murtenltd(at)musetr.com
Skype : murtenltd
Web :: murt.miiduu.com
BBM Pin : 27D4D1EE ( 24HRS CHAT )
Apple Iphone:
Apple iPhone 5S 16GB ....$550USD
Apple iPhone 5S 32GB ....$600USD
Apple iPhone 5S 64GB ....$650USD
Apple iPhone 5C 16GB ....$430USD
Apple iPhone 5C 32GB ....$450USD
Apple iphone 5S 64GB 24K Gold : $1,500 USD
Apple iphone 5S 32GB 24K Gold : $1,300 USD
Apple iphone 5S 16GB 24K Gold : $1,000 USD
Apple Iphone 5 64GB ....$430
Apple Iphone 5 32GB .....$400
Apple Iphone 5 16GB .....$380
Apple IPhone 4S 64GB.....$340
Apple IPhone 4S 32GB.....$320
Apple IPhone 4S 16GB.....$300
Apple Iphone 5 - 64GB - 24k Gold.....$850
Apple Iphone 5 - 32GB - 24k Gold.....$750
Apple Iphone 5 - 16GB - 24k Gold.....$650
Apple Ipad:
Apple iPad 5 Air Wi-Fi + 4 128GB .... $650 USD
Apple iPad 5 Air Wi-Fi + 4 64GB .... $600 USD
Apple iPad 5 Air Wi-Fi + 4 32GB .... $550 USD
Apple iPad 5 Air Wi-Fi + 4 16GB .... $500 USD
Apple iPad mini 2 Wi-Fi + 4G 64GB .... $480 USD
Apple iPad mini 2 Wi-Fi + 4G 32GB .... $430 USD
Apple iPad mini 2 Wi-Fi + 4G 16GB .... $400 USD
Apple iPad 4 Wi-Fi + 4G 64GB .... $430 USD
Apple iPad 4 Wi-Fi + 4G 32GB .... $410 USD
Apple iPad 4 Wi-Fi + 4G 16GB .... $400 USD
Apple iPad mini Wi-Fi + 4G 64GB.... $420 USD
Apple iPad mini Wi-Fi + 4G 32GB.... $380 USD
Apple iPad mini Wi-Fi + 4G 16GB.... $360 USD
Apple IPad 3 WiFi + 4G 64GB .... $340 USD
Apple IPad 3 WiFi + 4G 32GB .... $320 USD
Apple IPad 3 WiFi + 4G 16GB .... $300 USD
Apple IPad 3 WiFi 64GB .... $300
Apple IPad 3 WiFi 32GB .... $280
Apple IPad 3 WiFi 16GB .... $260
Sony PlayStation 4 - 500 GB .... $400 USD
Blackberry Porche Design 24k Gold.....$800
BlackBerry Q10 24k Gold .... $750 USD
Blackberry:
BlackBerry Porsche Design P9982 ..... $700
Blackberry Z30 .....$450
BlackBerry Q10 ...... $400
BlackBerry Q5 ..... $400
BlackBerry Z10 ...... $400
Blackberry Blade Design.....$400
BlackBerry Porsche Design P'9981....$450
BlackBerry Porsche P9981 WITH SPECIAL PIN $600
Blackberry TK Victory......$380
BlackBerry Playbook WiMax.......$340.00
BlackBerry 4G Playbook LTE......$300.00
BlackBerry 4G Playbook HSPA+.....$310.00
BlackBerry 4G 64GB PlayBook Wi-Fi Table......$320
BlackBerry Bold 9900......$330
Blackberry Bold 9930........$310
Blackberry Torch 9850........$300
Blackberry Torch 9800........$290
Blackberry Bold 9780.........$280
BlackBerry Style 9670......$260
BlackBerry Storm II 2 9550....$250
Blackberry Bold 9650.......$240
BlackBerry Bold ONYX 9700.........$230
Blackberry Storm 2.....$200
Samsung:
Samsung Galaxy Note 3 + Galaxy Gear.....$600
Samsung Galaxy Note 10.1 (2014 Edition)....$520
Samsung Galaxy Grand 2 ..... $350
Samsung Galaxy Note 3 N9005.....$450
Samsung Galaxy Tab 3 8.0.........$450
Samsung I9506 Galaxy S4 ...... $420
Samsung I9505 Galaxy S4 IV.....$420
Samsung Galaxy S4 zoom .....$420
Samsung Galaxy Mega 6.3 I9200.....$420
Samsung Galaxy Note 8.0 N5100....$420
Samsung Galaxy Tab 3 10.1 P5220.....$420
Samsung Galaxy Note II N7100.......$350
Samsung I9190 Galaxy S4 mini.......$400
Samsung Galaxy Gear Smartwatch ..... $250 USD
Samsung I9300 Galaxy S III.....$320
Samsung Galaxy Note LTE 10.1 N8020.....$400
Samsung Galaxy Note 10.1 N8000....$410
Samsung I8190 Galaxy S III Mini....$300
Samsung Rex 80 S5222R ..... $350
Samsung I8530 Galaxy Beam......$280
Samsung Galaxy Tab 2 10.1.....$270
Samsung U380 Brightside.............$260
Samsung I9070 Galaxy S Advance.....$270
Samsung Galaxy Player 70 Plus......$260
Samsung I9105 Galaxy S II Plus....$240
Samsung Galaxy Y S5360.........$220
Samsung Galaxy Note N7000 .......$270
Samsung Galaxy Pocket S5300.......$230
Samsung Galaxy Note SGH-1717.....$250
Samsung I9100 Galaxy S II.....$200
Samsung Galaxy Tab 10.1.....$200
Nokia:
Nokia Lumia 1520.....$400
Nokia Lumia 1020.....$350
Nokia Lumia 925......$330
Nokia Lumia 928......$300
Nokia Lumia 920......$290
Nokia Lumia 820......$280
Nokia Asha 311......$260
Nokia 808 PureView....$270
Nokia N9....$240
Nokia Lumia 900....$250
Nokia Lumia 800....$240
Nokia Lumia 710....$230
HTC:
HTC One Max 803s .... $420 USD
HTC Butterfly S .... $380 USD
HTC Desire 600 Dual Dim.....$360 USD
HTC One....$360 USD
HTC One mini...$350 USD
HTC First...$350
HTC Trophy.....$320
HTC One VX.....$320
HTC One X+.....$300
HTC One X......$300
HTC One XL.....$280
HTC One S......$270
HTC One V......$260
HTC Jetstream....$370
HTC Panache.....$360
HTC Butterfly ... $350.00
HTC Windows Phone 8X......$330
HTC Tube-5.....$350
HTC Status.....$330
HTC Vivid......$250
Sony Ericsson:
Sony Xperia Z1 ..... $400 USD
Sony Xperia Z Ultra .....$380 USD
Sony Xperia Z .....$370 USD
Sony Xperia M .....$360 USD
Sony Xperia L .....$350 USD
Sony Xperia V .....$340 USD
Sony Xperia Ion.....$280
Sony Xperia S.......$260
Sony Tablet S 3G.......$250
Motorola:
Motorola DROID RAZR MAXX......$300
Motorola MT917......$300
Motorola XT928......$300
Motorola RAZR XT912......$290
Motorola RAZR XT910......$280
Motorola XOOM 2 Media Edition......$300
Motorola XOOM 2......$280
Motorola XOOM Tablet......$180
Sony PlayStation 4 - 500 GB .... $400 USD
Other Mobiles:
LG G2 --- $270
AT&T Z998 ---- $270
Google Nexus 5 ----$300
Others ::
Xbox One Console..........................$400
Canon EOS 5D Mark II .... $700
HP ENVY 14 Beats edition series...... $999.99
Bose Lifestyle 235 Home Entertainment System ........... $1,599
Bose Lifestyle V25 Home Entertainment System ........... $1,610
Apple MacBook Air - Core 2 Duo 2.13 GHz - 13.3 ------ 400.00
Leica S-Adapter for Hasselblad H-System Lenses
Leica | 50mm f/0.95 Noctilux M Aspherical Manual Focus Lens
Leica S - Type 006 - Digital Medium Format Slr Camera Body
Miller 903471 XMT 304 CC/CV 208-230/460 W/Auto-Link.....$1,700
PLACE YOUR ORDER WITH US @ MURTEN STORE LTD
For purchase enquiry you can contact us via any email below... SATISFACTION GUARANTEED
Contact Name : Stephen Clive Murray
Email : murtenltd @ musetr.com
Skype : murtenltd
Web :: murt.miiduu.com
BBM 24Hrs Chat : 27D4D1EE
MGT
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419229#419229
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Buy Samsung Note 3+Gear$600/Samsung Galaxy S4 IV$420 |
stop invading our list with your advertisements. they have no relevance here.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kinne russ <russk50(at)gmail.com> |
Wabbss
You just convinced me never to buy anything from you -- is this really
what you wanted?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Buy Samsung Note 3+Gear$600/Samsung Galaxy S4 IV$420 |
Folks:
Matters like this get Matt's attention quicker by sending to his email:
dralle(at)matronics.com
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
Matt Dralle.... Are you out there...?
Block this crap off our list, please...
Beauford
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Contamination on Kolb List |
I caught this this morning and removed the "wabbss" account from the forum subscription
and cleaned out all of the posts from them.
Matt Dralle
List Admin
At 11:01 AM 2/24/2014 Monday, you wrote:
>Matt:
>Suspect that you have already seen this, but thought I would pass it along anyway...
>Thanks,
>Beauford, Kolb list
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of wabbss
>Sent: Monday, February 24, 2014 9:48 AM
>To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Kolb-List: Buy Samsung Note 3+Gear$600/Samsung Galaxy S4 IV$420
>
>
>WE GLADLY WELCOME!! YOU TO MURTEN STORE LIMITED
>
>MURTEN STORE LIMITED NOW OFFER A ANNUAL SALE!!!
>
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | 581 Jeannie Way | Livermore | CA | 94550
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020(at)gmail.com> |
Sorry Pat they are still private, so if you haven't solved your uploading
problems yet, I can't help you.
Here is a video of a flight that I took this morning. The weather here in
the Desert has been very nice while all the rest of you are suffering. So
you can live vicariously the joy that I experienced this mornings flight.
If it is any consolation, after returning from the one hour flight I spent
the rest of the day editing this video for you.
https://vimeo.com/87624835
password: owyheeflyer
Larry
--
*If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
address before sending.*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nick Cassara" <nickc(at)mtaonline.net> |
| Subject: | Wing Tanks in a Kolb? |
Kolbers,
Just wondering, has anyone ever put wing tanks in their Kolb?
Nick Cassara
Palmer, AK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Nick Cassara" <nickc(at)mtaonline.net> |
Thanks you Larry!
I will never tire of watching your flight videos! They keep my builders
blood flowing. I hope I can return the favor before too long!
Thanks,
Nick Cassara
Palmer, Alaska
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Thanks Larry! |
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020(at)gmail.com> |
There should be some interesting scenery where you are, looking forward to
seeing it.
Larry
On Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 11:11 AM, Nick Cassara wrote:
> Thanks you Larry!
>
>
> I will never tire of watching your flight videos! They keep my builders
> blood flowing. I hope I can return the favor before too long!
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Nick Cassara
>
> Palmer, Alaska
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
*If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
address before sending.*
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tanks in a Kolb? |
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020(at)gmail.com> |
I am not sure where all the "experts" are today, so I guess you are stuck
with me.
I think most of us first consider Kolbs because they are foldable. Of
course other things are considered as well. Most likely, most fold them
when they are not flying, and I would think most do not keep them in
Hangers at the local airport. So wing tanks would be a problem. Not saying
that it couldn't be done, just that it for the most part would incapacitate
one of the primary features of Kolbs.
When I made the trip with Arty that covered 23 days, I was using a 503
which burned 4 gph. I solved the problem by using two extra fuel tanks that
I strapped into the jump seat. I wired a facet fuel pump to my panel and
used quick release fuel connectors to get the fuel to the facet and then
into a valve in the top of the front tank. That gave me 20 gallons of
available fuel. I was also able to store all my camping and personal gear
as well. When I need them, I set them in, take them out when I am just
putting around in the desert. I had a fuel gage on the front tank, and as
it would get down towards the empty side, I just transferred the fuel to
top it off. That gave me more than four hours flight time.
Larry
On Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 11:05 AM, Nick Cassara wrote:
> Kolbers,
>
>
> Just wondering, has anyone ever put wing tanks in their Kolb?
>
>
> Nick Cassara
>
> Palmer, AK
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
*If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
address before sending.*
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tanks in a Kolb? |
| From: | B Young <byoungplumbing(at)gmail.com> |
I think it would be hard to fold wings with gas in the tanks
On Feb 26, 2014 11:10 AM, "Nick Cassara" wrote:
> Kolbers,
>
>
> Just wondering, has anyone ever put wing tanks in their Kolb?
>
>
> Nick Cassara
>
> Palmer, AK
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tanks in a Kolb? |
At 06:26 PM 2/26/2014, Larry Cottrell wrote:
>I think most of us first consider Kolbs because they are foldable. Of
>course other things are considered as well. Most likely, most fold them
>when they are not flying, and I would think most do not keep them in
>Hangers at the local airport. So wing tanks would be a problem. Not saying
>that it couldn't be done, just that it for the most part would
>incapacitate one of the primary features of Kolbs.
Can't see why; a flexible line and/or a quick disconnect fitting would
still allow folding.
You'd have to consider structural issues and provide adequate support for
the tank at all g loadings.
Dana
--
First Law of Debate: Never argue with a fool-- people might not know the
difference.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chris davis <capedavis(at)yahoo.com> |
=0A=0A=0A=0ALarry , Thanks for trip into your world .I always enjoy your vi
deos I hope to post some of my own someday.Hope we all live long enough! .
--- Chris=0A=0A=0A-=0AChris Davis=0AKXP 503 492 hrs=0AGlider Pilot
=0ADisabled from crash building Firefly=0A=0A=0A=0AOn Tuesday, February 25,
2014 8:52 PM, Larry Cottrell wrote:=0A =0ASorry
Pat they are still private, so if you haven't solved your uploading problem
s yet, I can't help you.=0A>=0A>=0A>Here is a video of a flight that I took
this morning. The weather here in the Desert has been very nice while all
the rest of you are suffering. So you can live vicariously the joy that I e
xperienced this mornings flight. If it is any consolation, after returning
from the one hour flight I spent the rest of the day editing this video for
you.=0A>=0A>=0A>https://vimeo.com/87624835=0A>=0A>=0A>password: -owyheef
lyer=0A>=0A>=0A>Larry=0A>=0A>=0A>-- =0A>If you forward this email, or any p
========= =0A>=0A>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks, I was beginning to wonder if any one saw it.
Larry
On Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 6:38 PM, chris davis wrote:
>
>
> Larry , Thanks for trip into your world .I always enjoy your videos I hop
e
> to post some of my own someday.Hope we all live long enough! . Chris
>
>
> Chris Davis
> KXP 503 492 hrs
> Glider Pilot
> Disabled from crash building Firefly
>
>
> On Tuesday, February 25, 2014 8:52 PM, Larry Cottrell <
> lcottrell1020(at)gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Sorry Pat they are still private, so if you haven't solved your uploading
> problems yet, I can't help you.
>
> Here is a video of a flight that I took this morning. The weather here in
> the Desert has been very nice while all the rest of you are suffering. So
> you can live vicariously the joy that I experienced this mornings flight.
> If it is any consolation, after returning from the one hour flight I spen
t
> the rest of the day editing this video for you.
>
> https://vimeo.com/87624835
>
> password: owyheeflyer
>
> Larry
>
> --
> *If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
> address before sending.*
>
> *
>
> ="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List ">http://www.matronics.com/et= "_blank" href="http://forums.matronics.com/ ">http://forums.matronics- >
>
===========
onics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List>
===========
===========
om/contribution>
===========
>
> *
>
>
--
*If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
address before sending.*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | undoctor <undoctor(at)ptd.net> |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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Hi Kolbers:
I also watched Larry's video. Very good job, as usual. I might add,
even though his video is really good, it doesn't come close to the
experience of actually hopping in your own Kolb and flying those same
routes.
I missed flying the Jordan Valley and the other areas around the Rock
House last year, but plan on flying Miss P'fer West this May.
Hopefully, I can make it to Oregon and back once again. The MKIII is
ready to go.
I plan to fly to Lakeland for Sun and Fun, about 10 to 12 hours, plus a
few hours of local flying. Might change the oil before I head West, but
other than that the new DCPR8EIX Iridium plug should have no problem
taking out West and back.
Keep those videos coming, Larry. I think all the Kolbers enjoy them.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
I watched it, Larry! Enjoyable as always Thanks.
Dave Kulp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kinne russ <russk50(at)gmail.com> |
Larry, I think EVERYbody watches and enjoys your vimeos. I know I do
Great work, pls keep it up
Russ K
On Feb 26, 2014, at 9:24 PM, Larry Cottrell wrote:
> Thanks, I was beginning to wonder if any one saw it.
> Larry
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 26, 2014 at 6:38 PM, chris davis
wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Larry , Thanks for trip into your world .I always enjoy your videos I
hope to post some of my own someday.Hope we all live long enough! .
Chris
>
>
> Chris Davis
> KXP 503 492 hrs
> Glider Pilot
> Disabled from crash building Firefly
>
>
> On Tuesday, February 25, 2014 8:52 PM, Larry Cottrell
wrote:
> Sorry Pat they are still private, so if you haven't solved your
uploading problems yet, I can't help you.
>
> Here is a video of a flight that I took this morning. The weather here
in the Desert has been very nice while all the rest of you are
suffering. So you can live vicariously the joy that I experienced this
mornings flight. If it is any consolation, after returning from the one
hour flight I spent the rest of the day editing this video for you.
>
> https://vimeo.com/87624835
>
> password: owyheeflyer
>
> Larry
>
> --
> If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
address before sending.
>
>
>
="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List">http://www.matronics.com
/et="_blank"
href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics->
>
> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
> --
> If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
address before sending.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Just had the pleasure of ordering some gaskets and carb boots from Don James at
JBM industries in Ohio.
What great customer service, my parts are already on their way and his communication
was fabulous.
I can see why folks speak so highly of this outfit.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
I'm using his carb boots on my 912ULS. Been on there a couple years. So
far so good.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
Just had the pleasure of ordering some gaskets and carb boots from Don James
at JBM industries in Ohio.
What great customer service, my parts are already on their way and his
communication was fabulous.
I can see why folks speak so highly of this outfit.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2014 19:24:16 -0700
From: Larry Cottrell <>
Thanks, I was beginning to wonder if any one saw it.
Larry
Very nice video. I have not been watching them as my feed is too slow. But
then I discovered that I could turn of the HD and my feed was adequate and
it was enjoyable.
Compared to you, I live in a build up area, so when the engine quits I can
land close to a road and a building site, make a call and get home. I am
sure you have a good back up system too.
Jack B. Hart FF004
winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: JBM industries |
| From: | "Larlaeb" <larlaeb(at)gmail.com> |
I switched out my boots for these a few months ago. Looking good so far.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419462#419462
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020(at)gmail.com> |
Jack Hart wrote-
Compared to you, I live in a build up area, so when the engine quits I can
land close to a road and a building site, make a call and get home. I am
sure you have a good back up system too.
I run a "spot" system with tracking. The wife can monitor on my computer.
Landings can be a little "iffy"
Larry
On Thu, Feb 27, 2014 at 10:26 AM, Jack B. Hart wrote:
>
> Date: Wed, 26 Feb 2014 19:24:16 -0700
> From: Larry Cottrell <>
>
> Thanks, I was beginning to wonder if any one saw it.
>
> Larry
>
> Very nice video. I have not been watching them as my feed is too slow.
> But
> then I discovered that I could turn of the HD and my feed was adequate and
> it was enjoyable.
>
> Compared to you, I live in a build up area, so when the engine quits I can
> land close to a road and a building site, make a call and get home. I am
> sure you have a good back up system too.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> winchester, IN
>
>
--
*If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
address before sending.*
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Excellent Kolb Trailer |
| From: | "lownslow" <mnmcouillard(at)yahoo.com> |
I just rejuvenated my Mark III trailer and then bought a hangar and no longer need
the trailer. Anyone interested, please send me a PM and I will provide more
photos and answer all questions. It's like new, totally rustproofed and the
decking weatherproofed.
Mike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419473#419473
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_3635_111.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Hale <halesbeer(at)gmail.com> |
Videos
Mike Hale here, FS 2 Seattle
I enjoy Larry's videos and would like to share some of my own.
Larry would you explain how one can learn to do this? I see you use a drift camera
I have files from a drift and an I phone. what software do you edit with? Any
tips you might share? What are advantages of Vimeo ?
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
I enjoy your videos and always add a link to them in our club newsletter. Thank
you for them.
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
My soul shall be joyful in the LORD; It shall rejoice in His salvation. Psalm 35:9
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419506#419506
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020(at)gmail.com> |
I first thought to send this BCC to Mike, but then I thought it was worth
the possible boredom factor to the rest of you, to send it to the list just
in case some of the rest of you would like to show us what your area looks
like. There is always the delete button.
Mike
I have no problem at all with being whatever help I can be.
I am using "Movie Maker" which came free on my computer. Its pretty basic
and pretty easy to use. I am not interested in "artistic" so I really do
not need any other program. I am sure there are many that will do so much
more, but I find the basic to be enough.
I use Vimeo with a Pro license so that I do not have to wait to have my
videos uploaded. Something I am still stuck with from the army. I hate
waiting in line. I found that You Tube did not want me to use the music
that I like, so I deleted all my videos from their site. I have had no
problem with Vimeo to date. Of course I keep my videos private, so there is
no indication that I am trying to make money with other peoples music.
The program is pretty simple, one uploads the raw video that will form the
body of the movie. ( The last one that I did was cut down from 45 minutes
of raw video.) It shows the video in a viewing window. You can control the
recorded video's sound level. I totally cut out the videos sound track
altogether. Some people like the sound of the engine- I don't. In essence
you split the video into little clips that tell whatever story you have in
mind. When I "split" out a chunk of "boring" film, I highlight the
discarded piece and click on "remove". This leaves you clips that are
blended into the video that you want. If I want to show certain scenic
shots of the terrain, I find that a 5 second clip gives the mind enough
time to see and understand what it is seeing. You can also speed or slow
the film clip to whatever speed that you need to meet your time lines or to
reduce the boredom of endlessly grinding over the same scenery as Kolb's
sometimes do. The only problem is that the video gets a bit jerky. By the
same token you can slow the video down if there is something that you want
your target audience to see, and by splitting out just the part, it is the
only thing that is either sped up or slowed.
Once you have fully edited the video, you can "add music" to it. There is a
feature that allows you to add it at a certain spot. I don't have a large
music library, and I sometimes buy music online simply because it will go
well with a video that I intend to make. I am sure that not all share my
taste, but that's their problem.
Once you get the video to where you are satisfied with it, you can save it
to file. Vimeo has certain parameters that works best for them and with a
bit of exploring their help section, you can create a "custom" save
function.
I used to convey all the little side notes of information on text that
would scroll across the screen, but I never felt that it was enough so I
have begun to "narrate" instead. I do that by saving the finished video to
file with the music that I like, then closing out the Movie Maker,
rebooting it and uploading the finished video as a "new project". I then
use "sound recorder" which also came with this computer, and make a sound
track while watching the video. ( I bought a "Plantronics headset" that
was actually pretty cheap from Amazon, that does a pretty good job.) I then
save the track to file. I reduce the video's music track volume that I
recorded on it so that the music is a background and you can hear my voice.
Then while listening to both running at the same time. I "add" the sound
track as I did the original music, and then Save the whole project in the
"custom" video format. Depending on the speed of your connection, Vimeo
uploads and will convert it fairly quick. There is a free version that will
allow you to upload one HD video a week or something, but the conversion
goes to the end of the line. Patience is not my forte.
I have included a jpeg of where I mount my drift, and I shoot it on full
HD. This is the only spot on my plane that I can find that will not turn
the film into "jello". When I cut the throttle however it will wave a bit
until it gets past a certain rpm or speed, but is quite steady the rest of
the time. Drift has a remote, so I can start it or shut it off when I need.
If I left anything out let me know or just call me at 541 586 5030 I will
try to walk you through it.
Larry
--
*If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
address before sending.*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stuart Harner" <stuart(at)harnerfarm.net> |
| Subject: | started covering |
Hey guys,
Covering has started! I have been practicing with some old 2.7 oz
fabric on
all kinds of makeshift frames using some old out of date Poly-Tak. Just
getting used to gluing and shrinking technics again, as it has been
nearly
18 years (Yikes!) since I have messed with any of this stuff.
Anyway, this weekend, I managed to get the elevators covered with 1.7 oz
fabric. Not as pretty as I would have liked, but I think it will pass
once
the tapes are applied.
I managed to work my way up to 325=B0 in 25=B0 increments. Watching
the
trailing edges, I decided to stop there. Here is a picture of the two
elevators lined up so you can see how much they are starting to warp. I
wish I had lined them up like this before covering for a comparison, but
I
did not think about it. I have to assume they were originally straight.
What do you think, did I go too far, or is this OK?
Thanks in advance.
Stuart
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: started covering |
| From: | Rick Neilsen <neilsenrm(at)gmail.com> |
Stuart
So what's the problem? The fabric is very strong and you want it tight.
Remember we are looking at trailing edge to trailing edge so it looks twice
as bad as it is and it doesn't look bad. Be sure to shrink the whole piece
the same so that you don't get any warping. Lots of chafing tape, looks
good. Keep going.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW powered MKIIIC
On Fri, Feb 28, 2014 at 8:17 PM, Stuart Harner wrote
:
> Hey guys,
>
> Covering has started! I have been practicing with some old 2.7 oz fabric
> on
> all kinds of makeshift frames using some old out of date Poly-Tak. Just
> getting used to gluing and shrinking technics again, as it has been nearl
y
> 18 years (Yikes!) since I have messed with any of this stuff.
>
> Anyway, this weekend, I managed to get the elevators covered with 1.7 oz
> fabric. Not as pretty as I would have liked, but I think it will pass on
ce
> the tapes are applied.
>
> I managed to work my way up to 325=B0 in 25=B0 increments. Watching the
> trailing edges, I decided to stop there. Here is a picture of the two
> elevators lined up so you can see how much they are starting to warp. I
> wish I had lined them up like this before covering for a comparison, but
I
> did not think about it. I have to assume they were originally straight.
>
> What do you think, did I go too far, or is this OK?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Stuart
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
The day after ordering from JBM industries, my parts arrived and appear to be first
class. Got carb boots, white Teflon float bowl gaskets, water pump gasket,
gearbox gasket, and primer port caps.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: started covering |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Looks great Stuart!
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Feb 28, 2014, at 8:17 PM, "Stuart Harner" wrote:
>
> Hey guys,
>
> Covering has started! I have been practicing with some old 2.7 oz fabric on
> all kinds of makeshift frames using some old out of date Poly-Tak. Just
> getting used to gluing and shrinking technics again, as it has been nearly
> 18 years (Yikes!) since I have messed with any of this stuff.
>
> Anyway, this weekend, I managed to get the elevators covered with 1.7 oz
> fabric. Not as pretty as I would have liked, but I think it will pass once
> the tapes are applied.
>
> I managed to work my way up to 325 in 25 increments. Watching the
> trailing edges, I decided to stop there. Here is a picture of the two
> elevators lined up so you can see how much they are starting to warp. I
> wish I had lined them up like this before covering for a comparison, but I
> did not think about it. I have to assume they were originally straight.
>
> What do you think, did I go too far, or is this OK?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Stuart
> <100_7558.jpg>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: started covering |
| From: | "Larlaeb" <larlaeb(at)gmail.com> |
Looks good to me.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419549#419549
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: started covering |
| From: | "Rex Rodebush" <jrrodebush(at)gmail.com> |
They look good. I don't think the trailing edges are much of a concern. I actually
went to far the first time and warped the leading edges so much it was impossible
to install the hinges. After that I put a straight edge on the L.E.
and shrank until they just started to bend. I didn't worry about the trailing
edges.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419569#419569
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Arizona Flyer" <heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com> |
Enjoyed the video Larry. That music sounds like Coyote Oldman or John Huling? It
adds a southwest spiritual tone to the video. My personal favorite of southwest
style music is 'Walk On' by Gary Malkin. Check it out if you haven't heard
it :)
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419581#419581
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: started covering |
| From: | "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)wildblue.net> |
It looks very good to me, realize this is a slow moving airplane and being a little
off will have very little effect on flight characteristics. Keep up the
good work and don't be afraid to tackle the big wings....looking goooood....
--------
Rick Lewis
(VW Watercooled Engine)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419598#419598
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: started covering |
| From: | "Rex Rodebush" <jrrodebush(at)gmail.com> |
What I should have said is I put a straight edge on the L.E. of the movable surfaces
and on the T.E. of the fixed surfaces to make sure the hinges could be installed.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419635#419635
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "alienwes" <elliott.wesley(at)yahoo.com> |
Thanks for sharing and taking the time to make it.
Wes
--------
Wesley Elliott
Sport Pilot-PPC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419686#419686
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: started covering |
when covering the wings I found the trailing edge did not warp but the ribs bowed
out of column. I would keep an eye on this when shrinking the wings.
FWIW
Jason
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419724#419724
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kolb with a Suzuki/Raven reduction |
| From: | "Cycleram" <Jkdibble(at)gmail.com> |
Does anyone have experience with this power plant in a Mark III?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419753#419753
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Ultrastar prices? |
Anybody have any input on what Ultrastars are going for these
days? Advertised prices aren't necessarily what they actually sell
for. I'm thinking of selling mine, with the trailer, but I'm not sure
where to price it... which also affects the negotiations on the plane I'm
looking at.
Dana
--
I don't suffer from insanity. I enjoy every minute of it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ultrastar prices? |
| From: | "Thumper" <dlong1957(at)yahoo.com> |
Dana
I sold my 1984 white/yellow/black one in 2010 for $5500 with a Kaw 440 engine,
pod and windshield, and an open trailer. I paid $3500 for it in 2008 but it had
been stored in an open shed and was in need of some TLC. I found a new un-built
kit locally and helped the owner sell it and we got $1200 but it was complete
with new unused prop and UL-II-02. I almost wish I was a builder sometimes.
Most flyable Ultrastars w/trailer should go for around 4-5K is my guess.
Try to reach Dana Holiday, he was looking for one two years ago at Oshkosh.
He now lives in FL I think doing flight training somewhere.
Sorry to hear you are selling but I did also, I bought a Mark IIIC, Flew 234hrs
in 13 months then sold it and bought my present Aeroprakt A20 and have 420 on
it in two years. Still a big Kolb fan and promoter though. I am happy that
I am still welcome at Kolb gatherings and hope to make the Kolb homecoming if
they have it this year.
dana(at)holladayaviation.com
Fly safe my friend, Dennis Long
--------
Dennis Long
Oakland TN
2000 Aeroprakt A20 Vista Cruiser
Previously Kolb Mark IIIC, 94 Firestar, 84 Ultrastar.
700+hours since 1/1/2009
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419849#419849
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dana Hague <d-m-hague(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | For Sale Ultrastar with trailer, $5500 |
I've decided it's time to sell my Ultrastar; after flying it for 5 years
it's time to move on. It's in very good condition, well maintained, with
custom enclosed trailer. Flown regularly. Cuyuna ULII-02 engine, Stits
covering, Black Max wheels & hydraulic brakes, strobe, 12V regulator,
custom aluminum tank behind seat (some of the pix show the old tanks),
cargo shelf (carry camping gear for fly-ins). Altimeter, ASI, tach, CHT,
EGT, compass, fuel pressure gauge. Spare Cuyuna engine. 10 minute
fold/unfold time, stores in enclosed trailer... save on hangar rent!
See videos of / from this plane at http://tinyurl.com/danaskolb.
Pictures at http://www.barnstormers.com/listing_images.php?id=873849
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mk3X Aileron Flutter? |
| From: | Tony Malins <malins888(at)gmail.com> |
Test flying my M3X and noticed aileron flutter at about 80. Is there any
balancing to be done (weight to be added) via the balance tube outboard of
the flaperons?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mk3X Aileron Flutter? |
| From: | Gary Aman <zeprep251(at)aol.com> |
Aileron balance is required on the Kolbs. Not suggested,not advised,but Ma
ndatory.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 6, 2014, at 5:23 PM, Tony Malins wrote:
>
> Test flying my M3X and noticed aileron flutter at about 80. Is there any b
alancing to be done (weight to be added) via the balance tube outboard of th
e flaperons?
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mk3X Aileron Flutter? |
| From: | Tony Malins <malins888(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks Gary,
Can never seem to find anyone home at Kolb..any idea how/where I can get
more info?
On 7 March 2014 08:41, Gary Aman wrote:
> Aileron balance is required on the Kolbs. Not suggested,not advised,but
> Mandatory.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 6, 2014, at 5:23 PM, Tony Malins wrote:
>
> Test flying my M3X and noticed aileron flutter at about 80. Is there any
> balancing to be done (weight to be added) via the balance tube outboard of
> the flaperons?
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Mk3X Aileron Flutter? |
Tony M/Kolbers:
All Kolb models are prone to aileron flutter when flown certain speeds and
conditions.
Kolb Aircraft Company has counter balance rods for and 4130 fittings for you
airplane.
Call Travis Brown at (606) 862-9692.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tony Malins
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2014 4:23 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Mk3X Aileron Flutter?
Test flying my M3X and noticed aileron flutter at about 80. Is there any
balancing to be done (weight to be added) via the balance tube outboard of
the flaperons?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mk3X Aileron Flutter? |
| From: | Tony Malins <malins888(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks John..very helpful.
Cheers
Tony
On 7 March 2014 08:58, John Hauck wrote:
> Tony M/Kolbers:
>
>
> All Kolb models are prone to aileron flutter when flown certain speeds and
> conditions.
>
>
> Kolb Aircraft Company has counter balance rods for and 4130 fittings for
> you airplane.
>
>
> Call Travis Brown at (606) 862-9692.
>
>
> john h
>
> mkIII
>
> Titus, Alabama
>
>
> *From:* owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Tony Malins
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 06, 2014 4:23 PM
> *To:* kolb-list(at)matronics.com
> *Subject:* Kolb-List: Mk3X Aileron Flutter?
>
>
> Test flying my M3X and noticed aileron flutter at about 80. Is there any
> balancing to be done (weight to be added) via the balance tube outboard of
> the flaperons?
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mk3X Aileron Flutter? |
| From: | Gary Aman <zeprep251(at)aol.com> |
My mk3 has tubes on the end of the ailerons into which a solid 1/2 dia stee
l rod is slid, parallel to the tip and 90 degrees from the hinges Disconnec
t the control push rod then slide the solid rod into the tube until it bal
ances the aileron,then drill through the tube and solid rod and bolt the ro
d into the tube.Mine has about 10 to 12 inches of steel rod hanging out of
the tube.Depends a lot on how much paint you get on the ailerons.
G.Aman MK 3C jabiru
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Malins <malins888(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thu, Mar 6, 2014 5:46 pm
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mk3X Aileron Flutter?
Thanks Gary,
Can never seem to find anyone home at Kolb..any idea how/where I can get mo
re info?
On 7 March 2014 08:41, Gary Aman wrote:
Aileron balance is required on the Kolbs. Not suggested,not advised,but M
andatory.
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 6, 2014, at 5:23 PM, Tony Malins wrote:
Test flying my M3X and noticed aileron flutter at about 80. Is there any ba
lancing to be done (weight to be added) via the balance tube outboard of th
e flaperons?
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
So I'm trying to find good fuel line for the new engine project in my Mk 3 and
the SAE 30R9 hose is hard to find. Finally found if at the local chain auto parts
store and they want $7 a foot!
I'm starting to think the Blue stuff from Spruce at $1 a foot is looking pretty
damn good.
Any suggestions?
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Goodnight <frank.goodnight(at)att.net> |
Dennis
I would be willing to bet a dollar or two that the parts store was trying to sell
you
A fuel line for fuel injection, that's about the right price for it.
Any napa or other parts store sells a good 1/4 in fuel line for about a buck and
a quarter a foot.
Just bought 3 ft. For my 701 at O'reileys This morning , cost $4.39
Fly safe Frank
Sent from my iPad
On Mar 7, 2014, at 12:51 PM, Dennis Rowe wrote:
>
> So I'm trying to find good fuel line for the new engine project in my Mk 3 and
the SAE 30R9 hose is hard to find. Finally found if at the local chain auto
parts store and they want $7 a foot!
> I'm starting to think the Blue stuff from Spruce at $1 a foot is looking pretty
damn good.
> Any suggestions?
>
> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020(at)gmail.com> |
On Fri, Mar 7, 2014 at 11:51 AM, Dennis Rowe wrote:
>
> So I'm trying to find good fuel line for the new engine project in my Mk 3
> and the SAE 30R9 hose is hard to find. Finally found if at the local chain
> auto parts store and they want $7 a foot!
> I'm starting to think the Blue stuff from Spruce at $1 a foot is looking
> pretty damn good.
> Any suggestions?
>
> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>
> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00498CX2M/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_1
>
I just ordered this stuff, Looks good to me, I asked John H about it and he
thought it would work. If youi are a "premium member" it arrives free
shipping second day.
Larry
>
>
--
*If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
address before sending.*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020(at)gmail.com> |
On Fri, Mar 7, 2014 at 11:51 AM, Dennis Rowe wrot
e:
>
> So I'm trying to find good fuel line for the new engine project in my Mk
3
> and the SAE 30R9 hose is hard to find. Finally found if at the local chai
n
> auto parts store and they want $7 a foot!
> I'm starting to think the Blue stuff from Spruce at $1 a foot is looking
> pretty damn good.
> Any suggestions?
>
> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>
> [image: Get $50 instantly when you get the Amazon.com Rewards Visa Card]
>
> Shipment Details
>
> <http://www.amazon.com/gp/r.html?R=AYHTKAFGUYYS&C=3TG14KBDH777U&H=4
KDCILAFFQNDR3AUX1NQ0QZWH8SA&T=C&U=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fdp%2FB0
0498CX2M%2Fref%3Dpe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_i1>
>
> Gates 27313 1/4" x 25' 50 PSI Barricade Reel Fuel Line <http://www.amazon
.com/gp/r.html?R=AYHTKAFGUYYS&C=3TG14KBDH777U&H=X7PCUG6SMAE7COLRNZS6B
8U5KNAA&T=C&U=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fdp%2FB00498CX2M%2Fref%3Dpe_
385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_1>
> Sold by Amazon.com LLC
> [image: Facebook]<http://www.amazon.com/gp/r.html?R=AYHTKAFGUYYS&C=3T
G14KBDH777U&H=LPEEL0OXONJLGOT5UAICQ0HLE3AA&T=C&U=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ama
zon.com%3A80%2Fgp%2Fredirect.html%2Fref%3Dpe_385040_30332190_cm_sw_cl_fa_sc
e%2F177-9976793-5617732%3F_encoding%3DUTF8%26location%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252F
www.facebook.com%252Fdialog%252Ffeed%253Fapp_id%253D164734381262%2526captio
n%253D%2526display%253Dpopup%2526link%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.amaz
on.com%25252Fdp%25252FB00498CX2M%25252Fref%25253Dcm_sw_r_fa_sce%2526name%25
3D%2526picture%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fecx.images-amazon.com%25252Fima
ges%25252FI%25252F31T%252520lFCgZoL._SCLZZZZZZZ__SY115_SX115_.jpg%2526redir
ect_uri%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.amazon.com%25252Fdp%25252FB00498CX
2M%25252Fref%25253Dcm_sw_r_fa_sce%26token%3D6BD0FB927CC51E76FF446584B1040F7
0EA7E88E1>[image:
> Twitter]<http://www.amazon.com/gp/r.html?R=AYHTKAFGUYYS&C=3TG14KBDH77
7U&H=VH42KKPGW4L9NQMX9KCPQ4RRB1UA&T=C&U=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%3
A80%2Fgp%2Fredirect.html%2Fref%3Dpe_385040_30332190_cm_sw_cl_tw_sce%2F177-9
976793-5617732%3F_encoding%3DUTF8%26location%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Ftwitter.c
om%252Fshare%253Fcount%253Dnone%2526original_referer%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F
%25252Fwww.amazon.com%25252Fdp%25252FB00498CX2M%25252Fref%25253Dcm_sw_r_tw_
sce%2526related%253Damazon%25252Camazondeals%25252Camazonmp3%2526text%253DG
ates%25252027313%2525201%25252F4%252526%25252334%25253B%252520x%25252025%25
27%25252050%252520PSI%252520Barricade%252520Reel%252520Fuel%252520Line%2525
20by%252520Amazon%2526twitterURL%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.amazon.co
m%25252Fdp%25252FB00498CX2M%25252Fref%25253Dcm_sw_r_tw_sce%2526via%253Damaz
on%26token%3D7A1A4AE8F6CE0BD277D8295E58702D283F329C0F>[image:
> Pinterest]<http://www.amazon.com/gp/r.html?R=AYHTKAFGUYYS&C=3TG14KBDH
777U&H=GUFA0CIA4HWRU6VNROI0WSJTYLKA&T=C&U=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com
%3A80%2Fgp%2Fredirect.html%2Fref%3Dpe_385040_30332190_cm_sw_cl_pi_sce%2F177
-9976793-5617732%3F_encoding%3DUTF8%26location%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fpintere
st.com%252Fpin%252Fcreate%252Fbutton%252F%253Fdescription%253DGates%2525202
7313%2525201%25252F4%252526%25252334%25253B%252520x%25252025%2527%25252050%
252520PSI%252520Barricade%252520Reel%252520Fuel%252520Line%252520by%252520A
mazon%25252C%252520http%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.amazon.com%25252Fdp%25252FB
00498CX2M%25252Fref%25253Dcm_sw_r_pi_sce%2526is_video%253Dfalse%2526media%2
53Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fecx.images-amazon.com%25252Fimages%25252FI%2525
2F31T%252520lFCgZoL._SCLZZZZZZZ__SY115_SX115_.jpg%2526title%253D%2526url%25
3Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.amazon.com%25252Fdp%25252FB00498CX2M%25252Fr
ef%25253Dcm_sw_r_pi_sce%26token%3D9F58B366258E1A8B5259E9BEF3482E02341F42D3>
> *$32.23* Item Subtotal:$32.23Shipping & Handling:$0.00Total Before Tax:
> $32.23Shipment Total:*$32.23*Paid by Visa:$32.23
I ordered this stuff from Amazon with premium membership it comes free 2
day.
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
--
*If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
address before sending.*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
Dennis, Kolbers:
We quit using UL plastic fuel line many, many years ago. To me, it is an
engine failure or fire fixing to happen. Very unreliable unless changed our
religiously at frequent intervals.
I use Gates premium fuel line, the black neoprene stuff. Have had nothing
but good luck with it. It will get a few tale tell cracks, usually around
the clamp, to let you know it probably needs changing. Never heard of this
fuel line failing, unless it was not Gates premium fuel line.
My opinion only, based on over 3,200.0 flight hours on my MKIII.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
So I'm trying to find good fuel line for the new engine project in my Mk 3
and the SAE 30R9 hose is hard to find. Finally found if at the local chain
auto parts store and they want $7 a foot!
I'm starting to think the Blue stuff from Spruce at $1 a foot is looking
pretty damn good.
Any suggestions?
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Thanks a ton Larry, I just bought 25 ft for $39 on eBay, I was hung up on sa
e30r9 rating and it is injection line but extreamly flexible and rated highl
y for ethenol. If it wasn't so pricey I would have used it. I Used to run s
ae30r7 and r6 but that stuff won't stand up to ethenol, it stiffens up after
a few years.
I hope the Gates Barricade is as flexible as the 30R9 stuff!
Will report my findings when it arrives.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Mar 7, 2014, at 2:11 PM, Larry Cottrell wrote
:
>
>
>
>
>> On Fri, Mar 7, 2014 at 11:51 AM, Dennis Rowe w
rote:
>>
>> So I'm trying to find good fuel line for the new engine project in my Mk 3
and the SAE 30R9 hose is hard to find. Finally found if at the local chain a
uto parts store and they want $7 a foot!
>> I'm starting to think the Blue stuff from Spruce at $1 a foot is looking p
retty damn good.
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
>> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00498CX2M/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_
dp_1
>
> I just ordered this stuff, Looks good to me, I asked John H about it and h
e thought it would work. If youi are a "premium member" it arrives free ship
ping second day.
> Larry
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>
>
>
> --
> If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email addre
ss before sending.
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Frank,
Make sure it's not rated for ethanol.
See my other post
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Mar 7, 2014, at 2:06 PM, Frank Goodnight wrote:
>
>
> Dennis
> I would be willing to bet a dollar or two that the parts store was trying to
sell you
> A fuel line for fuel injection, that's about the right price for it.
> Any napa or other parts store sells a good 1/4 in fuel line for about a buck
and a quarter a foot.
> Just bought 3 ft. For my 701 at O'reileys This morning , cost $4.39
> Fly safe Frank
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Mar 7, 2014, at 12:51 PM, Dennis Rowe wrote:
>>
>>
>> So I'm trying to find good fuel line for the new engine project in my Mk 3 and
the SAE 30R9 hose is hard to find. Finally found if at the local chain auto
parts store and they want $7 a foot!
>> I'm starting to think the Blue stuff from Spruce at $1 a foot is looking pretty
damn good.
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
>> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Damn,
Just now went back to Larry's link to the fuel line and realized it was $7 c
heaper than I paid. I do this stuff on my phone and didn't see the price lis
ted the first time I looked at it. Oh well, still pretty affordable.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Mar 7, 2014, at 5:45 PM, Dennis Rowe wrote:
>
> Thanks a ton Larry, I just bought 25 ft for $39 on eBay, I was hung up on s
ae30r9 rating and it is injection line but extreamly flexible and rated high
ly for ethenol. If it wasn't so pricey I would have used it. I Used to run s
ae30r7 and r6 but that stuff won't stand up to ethenol, it stiffens up after
a few years.
> I hope the Gates Barricade is as flexible as the 30R9 stuff!
> Will report my findings when it arrives.
>
> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>
>
>
>> On Mar 7, 2014, at 2:11 PM, Larry Cottrell wrot
e:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Fri, Mar 7, 2014 at 11:51 AM, Dennis Rowe w
rote:
>>>
>>> So I'm trying to find good fuel line for the new engine project in my Mk
3 and the SAE 30R9 hose is hard to find. Finally found if at the local chai
n auto parts store and they want $7 a foot!
>>> I'm starting to think the Blue stuff from Spruce at $1 a foot is looking
pretty damn good.
>>> Any suggestions?
>>>
>>> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
>>> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>>>
>>> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00498CX2M/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1
_dp_1
>>
>> I just ordered this stuff, Looks good to me, I asked John H about it and h
e thought it would work. If youi are a "premium member" it arrives free ship
ping second day.
>> Larry
>>>
>>>
>>> ==========
>>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>>> ==========
>>> http://forums.matronics.com
>>> ==========
>>> le, List Admin.
>>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email addr
ess before sending.
>>
>>
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> //forums.matronics.com
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
It might be worth reading the 4-page brochure, found here:
http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/documents/gat/gatesbarricade4page.pdf
Note that it is NOT rated for submersion in gasoline, so don't use it to
put a line down into the tank. It also isn't as kink resistant as others,
but still looks pretty darned flexible.
-- Robert
On Fri, Mar 7, 2014 at 4:45 PM, Dennis Rowe wrote:
> Thanks a ton Larry, I just bought 25 ft for $39 on eBay, I was hung up on
> sae30r9 rating and it is injection line but extreamly flexible and rated
> highly for ethenol. If it wasn't so pricey I would have used it. I Used to
> run sae30r7 and r6 but that stuff won't stand up to ethenol, it stiffens up
> after a few years.
> I hope the Gates Barricade is as flexible as the 30R9 stuff!
> Will report my findings when it arrives.
>
>
> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>
>
> On Mar 7, 2014, at 2:11 PM, Larry Cottrell
> wrote:
>
>
> On Fri, Mar 7, 2014 at 11:51 AM, Dennis Rowe wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> So I'm trying to find good fuel line for the new engine project in my Mk
>> 3 and the SAE 30R9 hose is hard to find. Finally found if at the local
>> chain auto parts store and they want $7 a foot!
>> I'm starting to think the Blue stuff from Spruce at $1 a foot is looking
>> pretty damn good.
>> Any suggestions?
>>
>> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
>> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>>
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00498CX2M/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_1
>>
>
> I just ordered this stuff, Looks good to me, I asked John H about it and
> he thought it would work. If youi are a "premium member" it arrives free
> shipping second day.
> Larry
>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> *If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
> address before sending.*
>
> *
>
> D============================================
> List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
> D============================================
> //forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
> D============================================
> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> D============================================
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | VW belt drive prop settings |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Calling all VW Kolb drivers with the belt drives!
My friend Roger Sell is nearing completion of his Xtra and needs an educated guess
on where to set his prop pitch to be in the right neighborhood.
He has a Great Planes engine and a 1.6 to 1 Valley engineering redrive with a 72
inch Powerfin F three blade prop. I think they say the engine is 100hp?" Any
suggestions on where he should start with his blade pitch would be appreciated.
I'm figuring 12 degrees for starters, idk?
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mk3X Aileron Flutter? |
| From: | Tony Malins <malins888(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks Gary..very helpful, I'll try it.
Cheers
Tony
On 8 March 2014 02:44, Gary Aman wrote:
> My mk3 has tubes on the end of the ailerons into which a solid 1/2 dia
> steel rod is slid, parallel to the tip and 90 degrees from the hinges
> Disconnect the control push rod then slide the solid rod into the tube
> until it balances the aileron,then drill through the tube and solid rod and
> bolt the rod into the tube.Mine has about 10 to 12 inches of steel rod
> hanging out of the tube.Depends a lot on how much paint you get on the
> ailerons.
> G.Aman MK 3C jabiru
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Malins <malins888(at)gmail.com>
> To: kolb-list
> Sent: Thu, Mar 6, 2014 5:46 pm
> Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Mk3X Aileron Flutter?
>
> Thanks Gary,
>
> Can never seem to find anyone home at Kolb..any idea how/where I can get
> more info?
>
>
> On 7 March 2014 08:41, Gary Aman wrote:
>
>> Aileron balance is required on the Kolbs. Not suggested,not advised,but
>> Mandatory.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Mar 6, 2014, at 5:23 PM, Tony Malins wrote:
>>
>> Test flying my M3X and noticed aileron flutter at about 80. Is there
>> any balancing to be done (weight to be added) via the balance tube outboard
>> of the flaperons?
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> 3D============================================
>> 3D============================================
>> 3D============================================
>> 3D============================================
>>
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
> tor?Kolb-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com <http://forums.matronics.com>
> bution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VW belt drive prop settings |
| From: | Rick Neilsen <neilsenrm(at)gmail.com> |
Dennis
I have the some prop cut down to 71 inches. I did this to try to get more
power in climb. Its very good but you will always want more..... it didn't
help Well 12 degrees would be a good starting point (I don't know what my
pitch is I use the feeler gage thing but I don't remember what my settings
are) but it really depends on how hard you want to run the engine. I find
that 3200 RPM at app 60% power and 75 MPH works well for me. It is a real
trial and error thing. I see 3400-3500 RPM on climb out at 60 MPH at 100%.
Tie the plane down and shoot for about 3400 RPM static and you will be
fairly close. Be very careful not to run at full power very long on the
ground. Watch your CHTs and don't go over 375 degrees even if you have to
power back a bit in the air. You can run a bit rich (to cool the engine) as
long as you don't foul the plugs by going too rich. I would run on the rich
side early on to protect the new engine. The valves are the weak if you get
them too hot. Also I run my redrive belts loose to get things to run
smooth. You will notice the engine RPM surging if you get too loose. If so
power back a bit till it holds a steady RPM or you will burn the belts. I
figure my engine as having 80 HP.
Good luck and have fun.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
On Fri, Mar 7, 2014 at 6:52 PM, Dennis Rowe wrote:
>
> Calling all VW Kolb drivers with the belt drives!
> My friend Roger Sell is nearing completion of his Xtra and needs an
> educated guess on where to set his prop pitch to be in the right
> neighborhood.
> He has a Great Planes engine and a 1.6 to 1 Valley engineering redrive
> with a 72 inch Powerfin F three blade prop. I think they say the engine is
> 100hp?" Any suggestions on where he should start with his blade pitch would
> be appreciated. I'm figuring 12 degrees for starters, idk?
>
> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: VW belt drive prop settings |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Thanks Rick, that's what he's looking for. I think we'll be test flying his b
ird sometime this summer so this will be a great help. I still run a Powerfi
n and will continue to run it when I swap engines this Spring, been using Da
ve Lewis's Warp Drive protractor the last couple years and won't go back to t
he pins and feeler gauges.
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Mar 7, 2014, at 9:56 PM, Rick Neilsen wrote:
>
> Dennis
>
> I have the some prop cut down to 71 inches. I did this to try to get more p
ower in climb. Its very good but you will always want more..... it didn't he
lp Well 12 degrees would be a good starting point (I don't know what my pit
ch is I use the feeler gage thing but I don't remember what my settings are)
but it really depends on how hard you want to run the engine. I find that 3
200 RPM at app 60% power and 75 MPH works well for me. It is a real trial an
d error thing. I see 3400-3500 RPM on climb out at 60 MPH at 100%. Tie the p
lane down and shoot for about 3400 RPM static and you will be fairly close. B
e very careful not to run at full power very long on the ground. Watch your C
HTs and don't go over 375 degrees even if you have to power back a bit in th
e air. You can run a bit rich (to cool the engine) as long as you don't foul
the plugs by going too rich. I would run on the rich side early on to prote
ct the new engine. The valves are the weak if you get them too hot. Also I r
un my redrive belts loose to get things to run smooth. You will notice the e
ngine RPM surging if you get too loose. If so power back a bit till it holds
a steady RPM or you will burn the belts. I figure my engine as having 80 HP
.
>
> Good luck and have fun.
>
> Rick Neilsen
> Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
>
>
>> On Fri, Mar 7, 2014 at 6:52 PM, Dennis Rowe wr
ote:
>>
>> Calling all VW Kolb drivers with the belt drives!
>> My friend Roger Sell is nearing completion of his Xtra and needs an educa
ted guess on where to set his prop pitch to be in the right neighborhood.
>> He has a Great Planes engine and a 1.6 to 1 Valley engineering redrive wi
th a 72 inch Powerfin F three blade prop. I think they say the engine is 100
hp?" Any suggestions on where he should start with his blade pitch would be a
ppreciated. I'm figuring 12 degrees for starters, idk?
>>
>> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
>> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WhiskeyVictor36(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox |
Mr Kirby & Other Kolbers
Quite a few years ago, someone on this list was attempting to accomplish
the same thing as you are. Another wise lister responded by saying, " You
can't make a Butterfly go Fast".
I assume he was insinuating that Kolbs are like butterflies.
Bill Varnes
Original Kolb FireStar
Audubon NJ
Do Not Archive
In a message dated 3/10/2014 11:38:49 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
dennis.kirby.3(at)us.af.mil writes:
In my quest to reduce aerodynamic drag on my Mark-III, it has become
apparent that the more I attempt to clean up the airframe, instead of seeing my
Kolb go faster, the results are making my airplane SLOWER!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Bearden" <gab16(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox |
> In my quest to reduce aerodynamic drag on my Mark-III
I believe I kinda remember a Kolber saying that he gained significant
increase in speed after he streamlined the struts. Have you seen this to be
true? It may have been a Firestar, not sure.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox |
Was true on my Firestar. I started out with round struts. Then we
fabricated lift strut from streamlined 4130. Was like flying a new
airplane. I had difficulty slowing down on my 600 foot grass strip.
Vibration like the old round struts was gone. Can't remember any numbers.
That was in 1987.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
> In my quest to reduce aerodynamic drag on my Mark-III
I believe I kinda remember a Kolber saying that he gained significant
increase in speed after he streamlined the struts. Have you seen this to be
true? It may have been a Firestar, not sure.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clyde MacQuarrie <clydemacquarrie(at)eastlink.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox |
In 2011 I started taking flying lessons my Mark 3 with no covering on the
struts. After someone posted the results of lab test done back in the
forties showing the difference with streamlining the struts I was convinced
it was the way to go. I installed the fairings before continuing my training
in 2012 and noticed a big improvement in climb rate and speed.
--------------------------------------------------
From: "George Bearden" <gab16(at)sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2014 5:36 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Drag Reduction Paradox
>
>> In my quest to reduce aerodynamic drag on my Mark-III
>
> I believe I kinda remember a Kolber saying that he gained significant
> increase in speed after he streamlined the struts. Have you seen this to
> be
> true? It may have been a Firestar, not sure.
>
>
>
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection
is active.
http://www.avast.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox |
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
When I put streamline fairings over my aluminum tapered gear legs, I noticed an
immediate change in trim, the airplane wanted to fly more nose up, presumably
because of the reduction in gear leg drag well below the center of drag.
Have converted over to the very old style machined and tapered steel gear legs
which Kolb has not sold in years, but have not yet flown with them. They are substantially
slimmer than the aluminum gear legs, but also a bit longer. Will
be interesting to see if the trim changes.
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
My soul shall be joyful in the LORD; It shall rejoice in His salvation. Psalm 35:9
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420137#420137
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox |
On 3/11/2014 3:36 AM, George Bearden wrote:
>
>> In my quest to reduce aerodynamic drag on my Mark-III
> I believe I kinda remember a Kolber saying that he gained significant
> increase in speed after he streamlined the struts. Have you seen this to be
> true? It may have been a Firestar, not sure.
>
>
The difference in round vs streamlined is *huge*. There's a drawing
that's floating around the net showing the equivalent cross sections of
a wire, a square rod, a streamline profile, etc that is almost
unbelievable. I couldn't find it with a quick search, but I did find a
link to an old Sport Aviation article (back when they had articles for
homebuilders).
Note carefully the decimal point locations.
file:///C:/Users/Charlie/Downloads/Streamline_SAA.pdf
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox |
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
ceengland7(at)gmail.com wrote:
> On 3/11/2014 3:36 AM, George Bearden wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > > In my quest to reduce aerodynamic drag on my Mark-III
> > I believe I kinda remember a Kolber saying that he gained significant
> > increase in speed after he streamlined the struts. Have you seen this to be
> > true? It may have been a Firestar, not sure.
> >
> >
> > The difference in round vs streamlined is *huge*. There's a drawing
> >
>
> that's floating around the net showing the equivalent cross sections of
> a wire, a square rod, a streamline profile, etc that is almost
> unbelievable. I couldn't find it with a quick search, but I did find a
> link to an old Sport Aviation article (back when they had articles for
> homebuilders).
> Note carefully the decimal point locations.
>
> file:///C:/Users/Charlie/Downloads/Streamline_SAA.pdf
>
> Charlie
Um - Charlie? I don't think that's a web url - I think it's a file on your hard
drive.
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
My soul shall be joyful in the LORD; It shall rejoice in His salvation. Psalm 35:9
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420146#420146
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox |
On 3/11/2014 3:32 PM, Richard Pike wrote:
>
>
> ceengland7(at)gmail.com wrote:
>> On 3/11/2014 3:36 AM, George Bearden wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> In my quest to reduce aerodynamic drag on my Mark-III
>>> I believe I kinda remember a Kolber saying that he gained significant
>>> increase in speed after he streamlined the struts. Have you seen this to
be
>>> true? It may have been a Firestar, not sure.
>>>
>>>
>>> The difference in round vs streamlined is *huge*. There's a drawing
>>>
>> that's floating around the net showing the equivalent cross sections of
>> a wire, a square rod, a streamline profile, etc that is almost
>> unbelievable. I couldn't find it with a quick search, but I did find a
>> link to an old Sport Aviation article (back when they had articles for
>> homebuilders).
>> Note carefully the decimal point locations.
>>
>> file:///C:/Users/Charlie/Downloads/Streamline_SAA.pdf
>>
>> Charlie
>
>
> Um - Charlie? I don't think that's a web url - I think it's a file on your hard
drive.
>
> --------
> Richard Pike
> Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
> Kingsport, TN 3TN0
> My soul shall be joyful in the LORD; It shall rejoice in His salvation. Psalm
35:9
>
Uhhhh, oops. The link does indeed require a download of a pdf file,
which then opened automatically in my web browser (chrome). I made the
mistake of copying the url line & failed to notice that it pointed to
the downloaded file instead of the site. It's actually on the Matronics
server, but it's through the forum & I use regular email. Try this
rather nasty link:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CC4QFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.matronics.com%2Fdownload.php%3Fid%3D12887%26sid%3D329d1844c4ac0988dc9552b9aed282b2&ei=-iQfU_ihFIfukQf7zYHACA&usg=AFQjCNFj7FR4iMleClzW5i3rcXQrdvynyg&sig2=2iAaS9k5dhi0fiG73RMRqA
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b young" <byoungplumbing(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drag reduction |
maybe a quarter to half degree.... a full degree may be a bit much....
boyd
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Boyd suggested that now, with all my clean-ups, I actually CAN get that
extra knot or two added to my top airspeed if I now dial in an additional
degree to my prop pitch. At the same power settings as before, I should now
see a bit more airspeed. Didn't think of that - I might try it.
Dennis Kirby
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection
is active.
http://www.avast.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "b young" <byoungplumbing(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | reduced drag and speed. |
kolbers... maybe I should explain my thought process,,, it seems logical
to me... but I am a retired plumber, not aerospace engineer.
I think when Dennis has reduced drag, he said he is at the same speed, ru
nning the same power settings, at the same rpm... ( at least that is what
I comprehended).. but with reduced drag. the same rpm is not the same p
ower setting,,, this is evident by the reduced fuel consumption. when m
aking changes, it is best to change only one thing at a time. thus you can
quantify the changes to the results. now that Dennis has reduced the dra
g, and kept notes on the changes,,, IMHO in my humble opinion,,, in orde
r to quantify the changes, he has to get the power setting back to the orig
inal settings. he could do this in 2 ways,,, first, increase the rpm ti
ll he reaches the same fuel burn, that should show an increase in speed,,,
second, and the purest change here is increase load on the engine equal
to the drag reduction, by increasing pitch, so he gets the same rpm at the
same fuel burn that he had before drag reductions. with the same rpm a
nd fuel burn the net difference in speed would be the benefit of reduction
of drag.
I am sure there are some on the list that could tell me if I have thought t
his through correctly,,, or if I am full of wishful thinking.
boyd young
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protec
tion is active.
http://www.avast.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | reduced drag and speed. |
Hi Boyd Y/Kolbers:
My qualifications to comment on this are few. I am a retired soldier.
Beans and bullets is about all I know.
I buy your theory.
While experimenting, you can use different prop settings to accomplish your
goal.
If it was me, when it comes to prop pitch, I would continue to use the same
practice as I always have:
Just bump the red line, for a 912UL it is 5,500 rpm, at wide open
throttle/straight and level flight. When you get that, you have gotten to
best performance for climb and cruise. The engine is happy. The airplane
is happy. Therefore, the pilot and experimenter is happy, I hope. ;-)
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
: Kolb-List: reduced drag and speed.
kolbers... maybe I should explain my thought process,,, it seems logical
to me... but I am a retired plumber, not aerospace engineer.
I think when Dennis has reduced drag, he said he is at the same speed,
running the same power settings, at the same rpm... ( at least that is
what I comprehended).. but with reduced drag. the same rpm is not the
same power setting,,, this is evident by the reduced fuel consumption.
when making changes, it is best to change only one thing at a time. thus
you can quantify the changes to the results. now that Dennis has reduced
the drag, and kept notes on the changes,,, IMHO in my humble opinion,,,
in order to quantify the changes, he has to get the power setting back to
the original settings. he could do this in 2 ways,,, first, increase the
rpm till he reaches the same fuel burn, that should show an increase in
speed,,, second, and the purest change here is increase load on the
engine equal to the drag reduction, by increasing pitch, so he gets the same
rpm at the same fuel burn that he had before drag reductions. with the
same rpm and fuel burn the net difference in speed would be the benefit of
reduction of drag.
I am sure there are some on the list that could tell me if I have thought
this through correctly,,, or if I am full of wishful thinking.
boyd young
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox |
>
>>
>> file:///C:/Users/Charlie/Downloads/Streamline_SAA.pdf
>>
>> Charlie
>
>
>Um - Charlie? I don't think that's a web url -
I think it's a file on your hard drive.
>
>--------
>Richard Pike
>
Could this be what you are looking for?
http://www.jackbhart.com/firefly/pdrag.html
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox |
| From: | "Arizona Flyer" <heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com> |
Also waxing your airplane will increase efficiency & speed. On my Rans S-7 after
I put wax on I gained 3 to 5 mph at cruise & top speed.
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420213#420213
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sky Biker <smlplanet(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox |
I haven't noticed any one saying any thing about vortex generators to help
performance. I have a Mark 111 / 912 80hp with the enclosed rear area=2C f
airing on the struts=2C steel landing gear with tundra tires. After instal
ling the vortex generators I noticed a lower stall speed=2C increase in cru
ising speed and climb. There was also a decrease in fuel usage both solo an
d duel. My main reason for installing them was the short field and beach l
anding and take off...less roll out and was surprised by the above added ad
vantages.
> Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Drag Reduction Paradox
> From: heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com
> Date: Wed=2C 12 Mar 2014 12:03:48 -0700
> To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>
> Also waxing your airplane will increase efficiency & speed. On my Rans S-
7 after I put wax on I gained 3 to 5 mph at cruise & top speed.
>
> --------
> "=3BLife should be lived as a bold adventure=2C I refuse to tiptoe th
rough life just to arrive safely at death"=3B
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420213#420213
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox |
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
smlplanet(at)msn.com wrote:
> I haven't noticed any one saying any thing about vortex generators to help performance.
I have a Mark 111 / 912 80hp with the enclosed rear area, fairing on
the struts, steel landing gear with tundra tires. After installing the vortex
generators I noticed a lower stall speed, increase in cruising speed and climb.
There was also a decrease in fuel usage both solo and duel. My main reason
for installing them was the short field and beach landing and take off...less
roll out and was surprised by the above added advantages.
>
Yep. My experience exactly. Isn't it wonderfully simple and straightforward?
Enjoy.
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
My soul shall be joyful in the LORD; It shall rejoice in His salvation. Psalm 35:9
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420251#420251
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Bearden" <gab16(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Kolb-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 03/11/14 |
> showing the equivalent cross sections of a wire, a square rod
Saw that video. Convinced me.
> Note carefully the decimal point locations.
Umm.. on what diagram? "Streamline That Tubing"?
Do you know of a good source for the construction details other than buying
another complete book? As I looked at the diagram I felt it was missing the
dimension that locates the widest part of the streamline. Plus, I wasn't
sure what it means with the "4X Tubing O.D." Couldn't figger out fer sure
what it meant. Not the circumference is it? Seems that would be a useless
bit of info. Have any one of us built these? I have some dacron, thinking
about covering foam with dacron and paint maybe.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Gillisse <thermal_hunter2002(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox |
Ref> Vortex Generators (VG's)... just installed them on my Firestar (43 on
each wing) and the first thing I noticed was increased climb rate and bette
r control at low-speed touchdowns (lowered stall speed combined with better
handling is a win-win). Don't know about an increase in cruise speed, just
learned that drag is not a factor at higher speeds. =0A=0ARobert Gillisse
=0A2004 Kolb Firestar II=0A503 DCDI=0ACollegedale, TN=0A=0A=0A=0AOn Thursda
y, March 13, 2014 12:44 AM, Richard Pike wrote:=0A
=0A=0A=0Asmlplanet(at)msn.com wrote:=0A> I haven't noticed any one saying a
ny thing about vortex generators to help performance. I have a Mark 111 / 9
12=EF=BD 80hp with the enclosed rear area, fairing on the struts, steel
landing gear with tundra tires.=EF=BD After installing the vortex genera
tors I noticed a lower stall speed, increase in cruising speed and climb. T
here was also a decrease in fuel usage both solo and duel.=EF=BD My main
reason for installing them was the short field and beach landing and take
off...less roll out and was surprised by the above added advantages. =0A>
=0A=0A=0AYep. My experience exactly. Isn't it wonderfully simple and straig
htforward?=0A=0AEnjoy.=0A=0A--------=0ARichard Pike=0AKolb MKIII N420P (420
ldPoops)=0AKingsport, TN 3TN0=0AMy soul shall be joyful in the LORD; It sha
ll rejoice in His salvation. Psalm 35:9=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic onlin
e here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420251#420251=0A
=========================0A
===================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pat Ladd" <pj.ladd(at)btinternet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox |
<>
Huh!,
I thought drag increased by the square of the speed (or something like
that) In essence the faster you go the MORE drag you create..
Pat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Kolb-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 03/11/14 |
On 3/13/2014 2:15 AM, George Bearden wrote:
>
>> showing the equivalent cross sections of a wire, a square rod
> Saw that video. Convinced me.
>
>> Note carefully the decimal point locations.
> Umm.. on what diagram? "Streamline That Tubing"?
>
> Do you know of a good source for the construction details other than buying
> another complete book? As I looked at the diagram I felt it was missing the
> dimension that locates the widest part of the streamline. Plus, I wasn't
> sure what it means with the "4X Tubing O.D." Couldn't figger out fer sure
> what it meant. Not the circumference is it? Seems that would be a useless
> bit of info. Have any one of us built these? I have some dacron, thinking
> about covering foam with dacron and paint maybe.
For the decimal point reference: in the table in that article: 0.085 for
streamline vs 1.03 for round. Streamline has less than 1/10th the drag
of a round tube. Also interesting to note that a round tube has *higher
drag* than a square tube (which would be 1.00, the reference).
I agree, the '4x tube OD' in the drawing is rather vague. I think he's
saying that the length of the streamline is 3x tube OD, the max width of
the streamline is 1.07x tube OD, and the length around the curve of the
streamline is 4x the tube OD. I can only assume that he's trying to give
some rough specs for 'rolling your own', without the required (rather
convoluted, for non- mathematician) calculations.
Don't some of the ultralite suppliers sell plastic streamline tubing
that just snaps around round tube?
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Kolb-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 03/11/14 |
>
>Do you know of a good source for the construction details other than buying
>another complete book? As I looked at the diagram I felt it was missing the
>dimension that locates the widest part of the streamline. Plus, I wasn't
>sure what it means with the "4X Tubing O.D." Couldn't figger out fer sure
>what it meant. Not the circumference is it? Seems that would be a useless
>bit of info. Have any one of us built these? I have some dacron, thinking
>about covering foam with dacron and paint maybe.
>
>
How I made trailing edge and strut fairings:
http://www.jackbhart.com/firefly/firefly105.html
http://www.jackbhart.com/firefly/firefly91.html
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox |
| From: | "Larlaeb" <larlaeb(at)gmail.com> |
I think most of the advantages of any streamlining you do are going to be more
in the area of efficiencies at lower speed (same speed with less power, better
fuel consumption etc.) than a much greater top speed. This is because drag increases
with speed exponentially as has already been stated and the improvement
you have made in the form drag by streamlining is pretty quickly overcome by
induced drag. I think the wing form of a Kolb is roughly optimized in size
and shape for somewhere in the 100 mph range and pushing that big high lift wing
will begin to take an unreasonable amount of power at some point even if substantially
eliminate a lot of the pod form drag. I'm not saying you won't go
faster, but the speed returns will rapidly diminish. Probably stating the obvious
but there's my 1.5 cents.
Allan
:D
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420304#420304
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox |
Wonder how that relates to a Kolb? and what is "at speed" for a Kolb?
Most of the feedback I get from Kolb owners that install VGs is a slight
reduction in top speed. Don't know about cruise speed. Not much difference
between cruise speed for me, when I am flying Kolbs, and top speed.
Top speed in a Kolb in normally never comfortable. They were not designed
for speed.
I have a normal "sweet spot" cruise speed, and a "get to the next way point
a little quicker" cruise speed.
In my MKIII, anything over 90 mph starts to get uncomfortable and is wasting
a lot of fuel. Normal cruise, 5,000 rpm, 912ULS, is 80 to 85. High cruise,
5,200 rpm 912ULS, is 85 to 90, depended on I am loaded.
If your Kolb is getting a speed boost with VGs, I am happy for you.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
I asked the question of drag from VG at a drag reduction form at Oshkosh a
few years ago. The response was that VGs when properly used clean up
aerodynamic issues to the point that they don't increase drag at speed and
sometimes even decrease drag.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: For Sale Ultrastar with trailer, $5500 |
| From: | "Mcabbage" <Mc(at)americanbuilding.com> |
Hi Dana
Mike Cabbage here hope all is well with Stan and yourself! Any idea what your
next aerial adventure will be? Im still flying ppg but I bought a Kolb firestar
2 last fall and hope to get that in the air next summer.
good luck selling your plane.
Mike
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420546#420546
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox |
John,
There are other benefits from vortex generators other than increased low
speed lift performance. The one benefit that may be of help to you is now
they seem to tame or remove high speed wing twitchness and improve aileron
effectiveness.
With VGs you may be able to move your "sweet spot" to a higher speed and an
increased comfort level.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
..........................................
From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 19:20:19 -0500
Wonder how that relates to a Kolb? and what is "at speed" for a Kolb?
Top speed in a Kolb in normally never comfortable. They were not designed for
speed.
I have a normal "sweet spot" cruise speed, and a "get to the next way point a little
quicker" cruise speed.
In my MKIII, anything over 90 mph starts to get uncomfortable and is wasting a
lot of fuel. Normal cruise, 5,000 rpm, 912ULS, is 80 to 85. High cruise, 5,200
rpm 912ULS, is 85 to 90, depended on I am loaded.
If your Kolb is getting a speed boost with VGs, I am happy for you.
john h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox |
Jack H/Kolbers:
Thanks for that information.
I don't really care to land any slower than I do without VGs, nor do I
believe any improvement in cruise speed would be enough to go to the expense
and effort to mount VGs, nor the inconvenience of having to work around them
once mounted. I have hard enough time getting the MKIII washed and cleaned
now without having to deal with all those little things sticking up on the
wing and other places.
As far as "taming and removing high speed wing twitchiness and improving
aileron effectiveness", I have never flown a Kolb that had those particular
problems.
I believe one of the primary problems with higher cruise and top speed on
Kolb aircraft, other than the Ultrastar which used a different engine mount
system, is the engineering of the Lord Mount engine mount system. I have
shared this before and will share this with you again. Some 27 years ago I
did some experimenting with my original Kolb Firestar, quite by accident.
Cannot remember why I had the Firestar tied down or why I was doing the
engine run ups, but during this exercise I discovered how much the engine
was raised in the rear and canted down and to the left, I believe, as the
RPM was increased right up to full throttle. Up to a certain point all was
well, then the automatic divergence of the thrust line started eating up
most of the thrust being produced by the engine. The Lord mount density was
whatever was being shipped with the original Firestar kits way back then.
During my next test flight, at about 65 or 70 mph, I can't remember now, I
hit a brick wall. The Firestar would fly no faster on this flight, although
it had pegged 85 mph, WOT straight and level flight on previous flights. I
was a little upset with my airplane and reduced power slowly. As I did, the
aircraft started accelerating. As it accelerated, at this lower than WOT
power setting, I slowly increased power and the Firestar continued to
increase airspeed. To remedy this problem I got on the horn and talked to
Little Mike at old Kolb Aircraft. Asked him to find the hardest Lord Mounts
available and told him why I wanted them. Those hard Lord mounts fixed my
problem. My MKIII has always had the hardest Lord mounts, but with 80 and
100 hp engines, that much thrust still kicks the thrust line off center.
Once the Kolb gets to a certain amount of drag, the more power applied, the
more the thrust line is diverted from inline with the airframe. I believe
that is why I can fly to 88 mph at 5,200 rpm, but increased power to 5,500
rpm only pushes the MKIII to 95 mph. Of course there are other factors
involved, but the offset thrust line is one of the major problems.
If I want to go faster, I need an airplane built for speed. If I want to
have a fun airplane that I can also make some incredibly long, exciting
flights, I'll stick with an 80 mph cruise and my MKIII.
The above is my opinion only, based on personal experience building,
breaking, and flying Kolb aircraft for the past 30 years.
Take care,
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
There are other benefits from vortex generators other than increased low
speed lift performance. The one benefit that may be of help to you is now
they seem to tame or remove high speed wing twitchness and improve aileron
effectiveness.
With VGs you may be able to move your "sweet spot" to a higher speed and an
increased comfort level.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox |
| From: | Gary Aman <zeprep251(at)aol.com> |
The dramatic difference in all aspects of flight below 40 mph have convinced me
of the VG's worth on the MK -3C. You only have to fly it with & without to see
it.
G. Aman MK3C jabiru 800+hrs
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 18, 2014, at 12:13 PM, "Jack B. Hart" wrote:
>
>
> John,
>
> There are other benefits from vortex generators other than increased low
> speed lift performance. The one benefit that may be of help to you is now
> they seem to tame or remove high speed wing twitchness and improve aileron
> effectiveness.
>
> With VGs you may be able to move your "sweet spot" to a higher speed and an
> increased comfort level.
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Winchester, IN
>
>
> ..........................................
>
> From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
> Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 19:20:19 -0500
>
> Wonder how that relates to a Kolb? and what is "at speed" for a Kolb?
>
> Top speed in a Kolb in normally never comfortable. They were not designed for
speed.
>
>
> I have a normal "sweet spot" cruise speed, and a "get to the next way point a
little quicker" cruise speed.
>
> In my MKIII, anything over 90 mph starts to get uncomfortable and is wasting
a lot of fuel. Normal cruise, 5,000 rpm, 912ULS, is 80 to 85. High cruise, 5,200
rpm 912ULS, is 85 to 90, depended on I am loaded.
>
> If your Kolb is getting a speed boost with VGs, I am happy for you.
>
> john h
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox/VGs |
There are quite a few different models of VGs on the market, as well as VGs
fabricated by the aircraft builder/owner/flyer. How does one decide which
style VG is best for their particular Kolb?
How about placement, angle and distance back from the leading edge of the
wing to get the most out of them?
Is there hard evidence VGs are enhancing performance as much as folks say
they do?
One of the VG manufacturers and marketers shared with me the following, "The
only reason I have them on my Kolb is because I sell them. Wouldn't look
good if I didn't." I know they work because I have flown a Kolb several
times with VGs installed. I know they enhance landing performance, but have
no idea if they increase cruise and top airspeed.
Still satisfied with the performance of my MKIII, low, cruise, and top speed
(top speed really doesn't make any difference to me). If I ever get to the
point I need VGs, I'll be standing in line to buy the best VGs available for
my MKIII.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
The dramatic difference in all aspects of flight below 40 mph have convinced
me of the VG's worth on the MK -3C. You only have to fly it with & without
to see it.
G. Aman MK3C jabiru 800+hrs
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox/VGs |
| From: | JC Gilpin <j.gilpin(at)bigpond.com> |
*One of the VG manufacturers and marketer shared with me the following,
"The only reason I have them on my Kolb is because I sell them. Wouldn't
look good if I didn't" *
Well that manufacturer would probably be me. I manufacture the Stolspeed
VGs, and have spent some good times yarning with JH.
But I do have to correct some misremembering here. I certainly never would
have said, "Wouldn't look good if I didn't...", cause that's not my
attitude and I never do anything just for image..... I don't remember my
exact words, but as I remember, the wording would have been more like. "Of
course I had to put my VGs on my Kolb, cause I make 'em..." But that's
because I'm a curious and avid experimenter, and want to test VGs on any
aircraft I get my hands on. I also would have said that. " The VGs didn't
give any effective landing advantage on the FireFly...", but that has to do
with the FireFly design rather than the effect of the VGs. Now I must
explain......
The addition of the VGs did lower the stall speed several mph (I don't have
the actual figures any longer). This was the stall speed measured at
altitude. Of course a lower stall speed also means a higher Angle of
Attack, and with the VGs the FireFly was very stable at this higher AofA
and lower airspeed. The stall was very benign and gentle, but then it was
so before, characteristically due to the low aspect ratio of that short
rectangular wing, which tends to give such stall characteristics.
But I found that I wasn't able to use that higher AofA and slower speed for
landing, due to the landing gear design on the FireFly. It sits very flat
on the ground, nowhere near the AofA at stall speed. When I tried to do
full stall landings with VGs at the slowest speed, the tail wheel touched
down first while the mains were way off the ground, then the mains came
down with an almighty thump....... I'm used to regularly doing full stall
landings - hold off, hold off, hold off, with the mains a few inches from
the ground, AofA increasing and speed decreasing until it stalls on as slow
as possible with no energy left to bounce or swerve. But with the FireFly
had to learn to 'fly it on', and at the three-pointer attitude that was
considerably faster than a stall landing. It's still a fairly short
landing but not near as short and slow as it could be. I can well
understand why some Kolb owners have gone to taller main gear legs.....
But point is that the VGs actually couldn't help any at that flat attitude,
so they were fairly useless on the FireFly, as regards to slow landings.
The VGs did give crisper aileron authority at slow speed, and much more
stability in very slow speed turns, but then you shouldn't be doin' them
anyhow, eh....
So that's the story as I remember it.....
John Gilpin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox/VGs |
JC G/Kolbers:
I apologize for the misunderstanding. Would like to blame it on old age,
but have to admit I got things screwed up. Now that you have told me the
story again, I remember what we were talking about, it was the tail wheel
hitting first while the mains were well off the ground.
Most Kolbs do that when performing full stall landings. Homer Kolb designed
his airplanes, except the Sling Shot, to sit fairly level on the ground.
His intention was the prevent low time pilots from pulling the aircraft off
the ground too soon, too slow, at too steep an angle, and stalling.
Landings must be done fairly level, requiring more speed, and reducing the
possibility of stalls. Any time someone got hurt in a Kolb, Homer took it
personally. He wanted his airplanes to be as safe as possible. Despite
that, we still manage to break his airplanes.
My MKIII doesn't have that problem because it has been modified to sit nose
high. Even at the nose high attitude, it is possible to hit the tail wheel
first if I get too aggressive in a full stall approach. I don't have that
problem much, now days, because I am not nearly as aggressive as I was when
I was younger.
Again, I am sorry for the mix up. JC has a much better memory than me. His
recollection of our conversation, two or three years ago, is right on.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JC Gilpin
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2014 5:12 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: Drag Reduction Paradox/VGs
One of the VG manufacturers and marketer
shared with me the following, "The only
reason I have them on my Kolb is because I sell them. Wouldn't look good if
I
didn't"
Well that manufacturer would probably be me. I manufacture the Stolspeed
VGs, and have spent some good times yarning with JH.
But I do have to correct some misremembering here. I certainly never would
have said, "Wouldn't look good if I didn't...", cause that's not my attitude
and I never do anything just for image..... I don't remember my exact
words, but as I remember, the wording would have been more like. "Of course
I had to put my VGs on my Kolb, cause I make 'em..." But that's because I'm
a curious and avid experimenter, and want to test VGs on any aircraft I get
my hands on. I also would have said that. " The VGs didn't give any
effective landing advantage on the FireFly...", but that has to do with the
FireFly design rather than the effect of the VGs. Now I must explain......
The addition of the VGs did lower the stall speed several mph (I don't have
the actual figures any longer). This was the stall speed measured at
altitude. Of course a lower stall speed also means a higher Angle of
Attack, and with the VGs the FireFly was very stable at this higher AofA and
lower airspeed. The stall was very benign and gentle, but then it was so
before, characteristically due to the low aspect ratio of that short
rectangular wing, which tends to give such stall characteristics.
But I found that I wasn't able to use that higher AofA and slower speed for
landing, due to the landing gear design on the FireFly. It sits very flat
on the ground, nowhere near the AofA at stall speed. When I tried to do
full stall landings with VGs at the slowest speed, the tail wheel touched
down first while the mains were way off the ground, then the mains came down
with an almighty thump....... I'm used to regularly doing full stall
landings - hold off, hold off, hold off, with the mains a few inches from
the ground, AofA increasing and speed decreasing until it stalls on as slow
as possible with no energy left to bounce or swerve. But with the FireFly
had to learn to 'fly it on', and at the three-pointer attitude that was
considerably faster than a stall landing. It's still a fairly short landing
but not near as short and slow as it could be. I can well understand why
some Kolb owners have gone to taller main gear legs.....
But point is that the VGs actually couldn't help any at that flat attitude,
so they were fairly useless on the FireFly, as regards to slow landings. The
VGs did give crisper aileron authority at slow speed, and much more
stability in very slow speed turns, but then you shouldn't be doin' them
anyhow, eh....
So that's the story as I remember it.....
John Gilpin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Bearden" <gab16(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Kolb-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 03/20/14 |
> I can well understand why some Kolb owners have gone to taller main gear
legs
Wonder maybe if that is why my plane's previous owner has such long gear
struts on my plane. Plus tundra tires. He well knows what he is doing on
planes.
Firestar 1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox |
>From: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
>Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2014 19:20:19 -0500
>
>Top speed in a Kolb in normally never comfortable.
John,
Why? What do you feel?
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drag Reduction Paradox |
>Top speed in a Kolb in normally never comfortable.
John,
Why? What do you feel?
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
At full power, primarily noise and burning a lot more fuel to gain a few
mph. I think another major factor is the engine being twisted with an
attitude change the more power applied, once the engine mounts have reached
their holding capability. At top speed it feels like it is dragging its
anchor. I imagine the high thrust line is killing a lot of speed and eating
up a lot of power also.
Power off, my MKIII is quiet and smooth as silk at speeds up to 105 mph.
That speed was unintentional during a rapid decent. At higher altitudes,
probably 5,000 feet and above, the sensation of speed is almost nil. Easy
to over speed. Slow cross check of the gauges will get my MKIII over VNE,
100 mph, in a blink. Power off it is trimmed neutral.
Don't believe Homer Kolb ever had any intention for his airplanes to fly
wide open. He was more interested in slower flight, STOL characteristics,
and enjoyable flying.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Green <bgreen(at)bimi.org> |
| Subject: | Fun flying by design. |
Well said John.
Bob G
Don't believe Homer Kolb ever had any intention for his airplanes to fly
wide open. He was more interested in slower flight, STOL characteristics,
and enjoyable flying.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Sun and Fun 2014 |
Kolbers:
I'm getting ready to fly down to Lakeland a week from today. Plan to be
there through Saturday. Looks like I'll be camping in the Kolb display area
again this year. That worked out just fine last year. Saved my poor old
knees by not having to walk back and forth from the camping area to the Kolb
display.
Last year, when I landed at Paradise City, I discovered the UL/Lt Plane
camping area was across the runway from the control tower. That meant you
had to have an "armed" escort to get from your airplane and tent to the
display area. There were no porta potties. No one had a chance to see your
airplane unless they were camping there. Not much forethought went into
this, much like Oshkosh used to do us UL campers. Hopefully, they have
moved the camping area somewhere near the display area so folks can see and
enjoy the aircraft of folks who have flown in. Last year only a handful
showed up to camp with their airplanes.
The Kolb display will be near the main entrance to Paradise City. I'll let
you know which side as soon as I hear from Travis. This is the first time
Kolb has not been in their regular site, front and center.
How many of you all are going to fly or drive to Sun and Fun this year?
This will be my 31st consecutive S&F since my first in March 1984. We have
come a long ways since those days. Where did all the years go?
Ya'll come and see us,
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Kolb Display Site S&F 2014 |
The Kolb display will be LP-041, the first space on the left as you enter
the main gate of Paradise City, the light plane/UL area.
Be hard to miss, the reason they decided to move from their old homestead.
Here is a map of Paradise City:
http://www.sun-n-fun.org/files/b7/b703263e-f55a-451d-a909-e4f6e4e56e07.pdf
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sun and Fun 2014 |
| From: | "Watkinsdw" <david.watkins0(at)gmail.com> |
I'll be there Thursday through Sunday, with the MK III built by Steven Green, if
the weather cooperates. Otherwise, I'll be driving up from Pompano Beach.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420987#420987
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun and Fun 2014 |
So far it looks like Kolbers attendance at S&F is going to be limited.
Hoping there are others that plan to attend.
My airplane got its annual bath yesterday. Hard to realize how big a Kolb
is until you start washing it.
Last year I pulled the gear box on the 912ULS because of a slight oil leak.
Must not have done a good job because I noticed a slight ooze in the same
location. Pulled the gear box a couple days ago and resealed. Have flown
an hour and 15 minutes. So far so good.
Looking forward to seeing Steven's MKIII again.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
I'll be there Thursday through Sunday, with the MK III built by Steven
Green, if the weather cooperates. Otherwise, I'll be driving up from Pompano
Beach.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Sun and Fun 2014 |
| From: | Rick Neilsen <neilsenrm(at)gmail.com> |
I will be driving in to Sun N Funds and staying in the campground Thursday
thru Saturday.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
On Tue, Mar 25, 2014 at 10:15 AM, John Hauck wrote:
>
> So far it looks like Kolbers attendance at S&F is going to be limited.
>
> Hoping there are others that plan to attend.
>
> My airplane got its annual bath yesterday. Hard to realize how big a Kolb
> is until you start washing it.
>
> Last year I pulled the gear box on the 912ULS because of a slight oil leak.
> Must not have done a good job because I noticed a slight ooze in the same
> location. Pulled the gear box a couple days ago and resealed. Have flown
> an hour and 15 minutes. So far so good.
>
> Looking forward to seeing Steven's MKIII again.
>
> john h
> mkIII
> Titus, Alabama
>
>
> I'll be there Thursday through Sunday, with the MK III built by Steven
> Green, if the weather cooperates. Otherwise, I'll be driving up from
> Pompano
> Beach.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Samuel Briseno <litefly(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun and Fun 2014 |
I'll be driving to S&F on Wed. with my grandson. We will stay till Thurs eve. Hope
to see other Kolbers there. I wish that I was flying my Firefly to the show.
Sam Briseno.
> On Mar 25, 2014, at 10:15 AM, "John Hauck" wrote:
>
>
> So far it looks like Kolbers attendance at S&F is going to be limited.
>
> Hoping there are others that plan to attend.
>
> My airplane got its annual bath yesterday. Hard to realize how big a Kolb
> is until you start washing it.
>
> Last year I pulled the gear box on the 912ULS because of a slight oil leak.
> Must not have done a good job because I noticed a slight ooze in the same
> location. Pulled the gear box a couple days ago and resealed. Have flown
> an hour and 15 minutes. So far so good.
>
> Looking forward to seeing Steven's MKIII again.
>
> john h
> mkIII
> Titus, Alabama
>
>
>
>
>
> I'll be there Thursday through Sunday, with the MK III built by Steven
> Green, if the weather cooperates. Otherwise, I'll be driving up from Pompano
> Beach.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Trailer for Sale |
| From: | "tkben002" <tkben002(at)bellsouth.net> |
I sold my Kolb Kolbra and still have the trailer, just wanted to let any Kolber's
know in case they were looking for a nice fully enclosed trailer. I listed
it on barnstormers.
Travis
http://www.barnstormers.com/Experimental,%20Kolb%20Classifieds.htm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421086#421086
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Local MKIII Owners Southeastern Missouri |
| From: | "Doug-Missouri" <cincro(at)yahoo.com> |
I am a new MKIII owner and looking for tips and tricks especially for the cage
of the plane. Currently the plane is apart and before I recover the cage I would
like to look at others that have been built hopefully locally for any and
all ideas. Gas tank, storage, seats.......ect. So if anyone happens to know of
a MKIII close to the boot heel of Missouri or would like to offer advice please
do so.
I am new to the forum as of today and this is also my first post.
Thanks,
Doug
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421088#421088
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GARY JINDRA <gajindra(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Local MKIII Owners Southeastern Missouri |
Check out Moeller below deck-fuel tanks for boats. Sure looks like there
is a big selection and one could fit in before covering. Increase in fuel c
apacity would sure be nice for longer trips. It's the one change I wish I w
ould have made.-=0AGary Jindra=0AMark 3 Rotax 912 80 hp. 190 hours=0A =0A
=0A________________________________=0A From: Doug-Missouri <cincro(at)yahoo.co
m>=0ATo: kolb-list(at)matronics.com =0ASent: Wednesday, March 26, 2014 5:59 PM
=0ASubject: Kolb-List: Local MKIII Owners Southeastern Missouri=0A =0A=0A-
m a new MKIII owner and looking for tips and tricks especially for the cage
of the plane.- Currently the plane is apart and before I recover the cag
e I would like to look at others that have been built hopefully locally for
any and all ideas.- Gas tank, storage, seats.......ect. So if anyone hap
pens to know of a MKIII close to the boot heel of Missouri or would like to
offer advice please do so.=0A=0AI am new to the forum as of today and this
is also my first post.=0A=0AThanks, =0ADoug=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic
online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421088#4210
=========================0A
======================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Local MKIII Owners Southeastern Missouri |
| From: | "Doug-Missouri" <cincro(at)yahoo.com> |
Thank you both very much those tips are exactly what I need to know!
Thank you!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421102#421102
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Local MKIII Owners Southeastern Missouri |
Pull up the Matronic Archives. You can dig around in there and find a lot
of Kolb stuff.
http://www.matronics.com/search
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
Thank you both very much those tips are exactly what I need to know!
Thank you!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Local MKIII Owners Southeastern Missouri |
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
You will find lots of good ideas in the archives. Here are some things that have
worked very well for me.
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/kolb.htm
I need to do some updating - redid the doors this winter, changed the switch panel,
new landing gear, etc, so need to take some pictures and do some updates
to this page.
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
My soul shall be joyful in the LORD; It shall rejoice in His salvation. Psalm 35:9
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421127#421127
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Local MKIII Owners Southeastern Missouri |
| From: | "Rex Rodebush" <jrrodebush(at)gmail.com> |
Doug,
I have a Mark III X-tra that your welcome to check out if you wish. It would be
somewhat of a drive for you as it's in a hanger in Branson West (not Branson).
Rex
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421161#421161
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Local MKIII Owners Southeastern Missouri |
| From: | "Doug-Missouri" <cincro(at)yahoo.com> |
Thank you Richard, I have actually been to your Web page several times and like
all the info you have placed there!
Rex, That is quite a drive from Poplar Bluff I was told today that a MKIII classic
is in Jonesboro so I may look at it while attending an EAA meeting. With
any luck we may be able to fly and see you some day!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421170#421170
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Looking for an enclosed Slingshot trailer |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
My friend Dave Lewis is seeking a trailer to haul and store his slingshot in. The
door and inside dimensions have to clear his 76" width and 87" height.
We were hoping The one Travis Bennett is selling would work but it's not tall enough.
Any help would be appreciated
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking for an enclosed Slingshot trailer |
| From: | K I <wrk2win4u(at)msn.com> |
Greetings,
I may have a lead on one in North Carolina. I think he wants about $3000 for it.
It's custom-built for a Kolb with a three blade IVO. It has an electric winch
to pull up the airplane. Let me know if this may work.
Kurt
Starting over with a Mark III .
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 29, 2014, at 7:17, "Dennis Rowe" wrote:
>
>
> My friend Dave Lewis is seeking a trailer to haul and store his slingshot in.
The door and inside dimensions have to clear his 76" width and 87" height.
> We were hoping The one Travis Bennett is selling would work but it's not tall
enough.
> Any help would be appreciated
>
> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TheWanderingWench <thewanderingwench(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Flying to Monument Valley in May |
Hi folks,=0A=0AI know that you aren't doing your once-annual trek to MV any
more, but a few friends had heard me rave about it so much that we've deci
ded to go. It's hard to imagine being there without a gaggle of Kolbers, so
this is a heads up if any of you in the Utah area (or elsewhere!) want to
join us, we'd love it. We're figuring on a 2+ week flight, as we also want
to fly some back-country airstrips in Utah after we leave MV. There will be
two Titan Tornados, one Avid, and me in my Talon. My guess is that we'll a
rrive about May 7-8, depending on weather.=0A=0AOur route to MV, as of now,
is:=0AOn Saturday, May 3, we plan on following I-5 south and staying overn
ight in Medford, Oregon=0A=0AOn Sunday we'll follow Hwy. =0A140 east to Hwy
. 95, and follow that south to Winnemucca, NV.=0AFrom Winnemucca we'll foll
ow I-80 east of Carlin, and then head south on Hwy. 278 to Eureka. =0A=0AFr
om Eureka we'll follow =0AHwy. 50 east past Great Basin National Park and t
urn southeast on Hwy. =0A21 to Milford (Utah) and then Beaver (Utah).=0AAt
Beaver we'll follow I-15 south a little, and then take Hwy. 20 southeast ov
er the Hwy. 89. =0A=0ASouth on Hwy 89 past Panguich and then take Hwy. 12 t
o Bryce Canyon.=0AFrom Bryce we'll continue on Hwy. 12 northeast to Escalan
te. Just past Escalante we pick up the Burr Trail and follow it over into t
he Glen Canyon National Recreational =0AArea and then to Gouldings at Monum
ent Valley.=0AFrom Monument Valley (where =0Awe'll probably stay for 3-4 da
ys,) we want to do some Utah =0Aback-country flying. We'll decide where whi
le we're lazing around in the evenings at MV.=0A=0AMy Talon is the slowest,
cruising at 75-80 mph, so it will probably take us 4-5 days to get there.
=0A=0AI'll also have my SPOT on, so you can follow our progress.=0A=0ASo -
I'll keep my fingers crossed that I see some of you there. =0A=0AArty Trost
=0ASandy, Oregon=0A=0A-=0Awww.LessonsFromTheEdge.com/uladventure2009.htm
=0A=0A=0A"Life's a daring adventure or nothing"=0AHelen Keller=0A=0A=0A"I r
efuse to tip toe through life just to arrive safely at death."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking for an enclosed Slingshot trailer |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Very interested, please let me know the contact info
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Mar 29, 2014, at 12:06 PM, K I wrote:
>
>
> Greetings,
>
> I may have a lead on one in North Carolina. I think he wants about $3000 for
it. It's custom-built for a Kolb with a three blade IVO. It has an electric winch
to pull up the airplane. Let me know if this may work.
>
> Kurt
> Starting over with a Mark III .
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Mar 29, 2014, at 7:17, "Dennis Rowe" wrote:
>>
>>
>> My friend Dave Lewis is seeking a trailer to haul and store his slingshot in.
The door and inside dimensions have to clear his 76" width and 87" height.
>> We were hoping The one Travis Bennett is selling would work but it's not tall
enough.
>> Any help would be appreciated
>>
>> Dennis "Skid" Rowe
>> Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Bearden" <gab16(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for an enclosed Slingshot trailer |
> Very interested, please let me know the contact info
And let me know too in case you decline.
GeoB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Bent gear leg question... |
| From: | "Arizona Flyer" <heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com> |
One of my Firestar II gear legs have a slight bow from a hard landing. It causes
no problems but when the plane is sitting, the wings are not quite level. If
I put a straight edge on the bowed gear leg, there is about a 1/4" gap in the
center. Is it ok to straighten it with a press of some type? I think I asked
Travis at Kolb once and he said no, but he might have thought it is bent quite
a bit more than it really is? I'm thinking about leaving the gear leg on the
plane and taking channel iron to the top side and using some blocks then taking
a strong clamp to press the bow out. What do you guys think? Is it ok to bend
a slight bow out of one gear leg? I think this Firestar was built in 1997, built
by Gary Aman. The gear legs are light in color, looks like aluminum, but
are probably stainless spring steel something like that.
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421296#421296
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bent gear leg question... |
| From: | Will Ricketts <agramjak(at)gmail.com> |
Gear legs are straightened all the time. I used a hydrolic (sp) jack and a fixture
made from 2x8 and metal strapping material
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 30, 2014, at 1:38 PM, "Arizona Flyer" wrote:
>
>
> One of my Firestar II gear legs have a slight bow from a hard landing. It causes
no problems but when the plane is sitting, the wings are not quite level.
If I put a straight edge on the bowed gear leg, there is about a 1/4" gap in the
center. Is it ok to straighten it with a press of some type? I think I asked
Travis at Kolb once and he said no, but he might have thought it is bent quite
a bit more than it really is? I'm thinking about leaving the gear leg on the
plane and taking channel iron to the top side and using some blocks then taking
a strong clamp to press the bow out. What do you guys think? Is it ok to bend
a slight bow out of one gear leg? I think this Firestar was built in 1997,
built by Gary Aman. The gear legs are light in color, looks like aluminum, but
are probably stainless spring steel something like that.
>
> --------
> "Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
just to arrive safely at death"
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421296#421296
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Kulp <undoctor(at)ptd.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bent gear leg question... |
When I bought my FF I found a gear leg was bent. I got a pipe bender
from Harbor Freight for a little less than 100 bucks and it worked
great. Haven't needed to use it since so it was a pricy leg
straightening but at least now I have it for any need it's good for.
Dave Kulp
Bethlehem, PA
FireFly 11DMK
On 3/30/2014 4:17 PM, Will Ricketts wrote:
>
> Gear legs are straightened all the time. I used a hydrolic (sp) jack and a fixture
made from 2x8 and metal strapping material
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Mar 30, 2014, at 1:38 PM, "Arizona Flyer" wrote:
>>
>>
>> One of my Firestar II gear legs have a slight bow from a hard landing. It causes
no problems but when the plane is sitting, the wings are not quite level.
If I put a straight edge on the bowed gear leg, there is about a 1/4" gap in
the center. Is it ok to straighten it with a press of some type? I think I asked
Travis at Kolb once and he said no, but he might have thought it is bent quite
a bit more than it really is? I'm thinking about leaving the gear leg on the
plane and taking channel iron to the top side and using some blocks then taking
a strong clamp to press the bow out. What do you guys think? Is it ok to
bend a slight bow out of one gear leg? I think this Firestar was built in 1997,
built by Gary Aman. The gear legs are light in color, looks like aluminum, but
are probably stainless spring steel something like that.
>>
>> --------
>> "Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
just to arrive safely at death"
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421296#421296
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection
is active.
http://www.avast.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bent gear leg question... |
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020(at)gmail.com> |
All the normal advice seems a bit slow, so I guess I will chime in. Just
turn your gear leg over and bend it back with normal flying.
Larry
On Sun, Mar 30, 2014 at 12:38 PM, Arizona Flyer wrote:
>
> One of my Firestar II gear legs have a slight bow from a hard landing. It
> causes no problems but when the plane is sitting, the wings are not quite
> level. If I put a straight edge on the bowed gear leg, there is about a
> 1/4" gap in the center. Is it ok to straighten it with a press of some
> type? I think I asked Travis at Kolb once and he said no, but he might have
> thought it is bent quite a bit more than it really is? I'm thinking about
> leaving the gear leg on the plane and taking channel iron to the top side
> and using some blocks then taking a strong clamp to press the bow out. What
> do you guys think? Is it ok to bend a slight bow out of one gear leg? I
> think this Firestar was built in 1997, built by Gary Aman. The gear legs
> are light in color, looks like aluminum, but are probably stainless spring
> steel something like that.
>
> --------
> "Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
> just to arrive safely at death"
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421296#421296
>
>
--
*If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
address before sending.*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Orth" <mosurf(at)xplornet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bent gear leg question... |
1. Park on a hillside. Or....
2. Bend the other leg to match.
Michael
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-------
From: Larry Cottrell
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2014 2:51 PM
Subject: Re: Kolb-List: Bent gear leg question...
All the normal advice seems a bit slow, so I guess I will chime in. Just
turn your gear leg over and bend it back with normal flying.
Larry
On Sun, Mar 30, 2014 at 12:38 PM, Arizona Flyer
wrote:
One of my Firestar II gear legs have a slight bow from a hard landing.
It causes no problems but when the plane is sitting, the wings are not
quite level. If I put a straight edge on the bowed gear leg, there is
about a 1/4" gap in the center. Is it ok to straighten it with a press
of some type? I think I asked Travis at Kolb once and he said no, but he
might have thought it is bent quite a bit more than it really is? I'm
thinking about leaving the gear leg on the plane and taking channel iron
to the top side and using some blocks then taking a strong clamp to
press the bow out. What do you guys think? Is it ok to bend a slight bow
out of one gear leg? I think this Firestar was built in 1997, built by
Gary Aman. The gear legs are light in color, looks like aluminum, but
are probably stainless spring steel something like that.
--------
"Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through
life just to arrive safely at death"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421296#421296
==========
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
--
If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
address before sending.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bent gear leg question... |
| From: | Rick Neilsen <neilsenrm(at)gmail.com> |
Seems like I have heard bend it back straight once maybe twice if it is a
small bend but replace it after that. On my forth landing I bend mine, big
time. There was no bending it back so I replaced it after one bend.
Rick Neilsen
Redrive VW Powered MKIIIC
On Sun, Mar 30, 2014 at 5:19 PM, David Kulp wrote:
>
> When I bought my FF I found a gear leg was bent. I got a pipe bender from
> Harbor Freight for a little less than 100 bucks and it worked great.
> Haven't needed to use it since so it was a pricy leg straightening but at
> least now I have it for any need it's good for.
>
> Dave Kulp
> Bethlehem, PA
> FireFly 11DMK
>
> On 3/30/2014 4:17 PM, Will Ricketts wrote:
>
>>
>> Gear legs are straightened all the time. I used a hydrolic (sp) jack and
>> a fixture made from 2x8 and metal strapping material
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Mar 30, 2014, at 1:38 PM, "Arizona Flyer"
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com>
>>>
>>> One of my Firestar II gear legs have a slight bow from a hard landing.
>>> It causes no problems but when the plane is sitting, the wings are not
>>> quite level. If I put a straight edge on the bowed gear leg, there is about
>>> a 1/4" gap in the center. Is it ok to straighten it with a press of some
>>> type? I think I asked Travis at Kolb once and he said no, but he might have
>>> thought it is bent quite a bit more than it really is? I'm thinking about
>>> leaving the gear leg on the plane and taking channel iron to the top side
>>> and using some blocks then taking a strong clamp to press the bow out. What
>>> do you guys think? Is it ok to bend a slight bow out of one gear leg? I
>>> think this Firestar was built in 1997, built by Gary Aman. The gear legs
>>> are light in color, looks like aluminum, but are probably stainless spring
>>> steel something like that.
>>>
>>> --------
>>> "Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe
>>> through life just to arrive safely at death"
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421296#421296
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> ---
> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus
> protection is active.
> http://www.avast.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bent gear leg question... |
| From: | Gary Aman <zeprep251(at)aol.com> |
Who knows what they are made of now Jeff. That was a couple owners ago. BUT I still
have a set of Fiberglas
Legs with the fittings at home. Makes it ride smoothly but so flexible it would
toe in when pulled backward into the trailer,making it hard to pull so I put
the aluminum ones back on.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 30, 2014, at 2:38 PM, "Arizona Flyer" wrote:
>
>
> One of my Firestar II gear legs have a slight bow from a hard landing. It causes
no problems but when the plane is sitting, the wings are not quite level.
If I put a straight edge on the bowed gear leg, there is about a 1/4" gap in the
center. Is it ok to straighten it with a press of some type? I think I asked
Travis at Kolb once and he said no, but he might have thought it is bent quite
a bit more than it really is? I'm thinking about leaving the gear leg on the
plane and taking channel iron to the top side and using some blocks then taking
a strong clamp to press the bow out. What do you guys think? Is it ok to bend
a slight bow out of one gear leg? I think this Firestar was built in 1997,
built by Gary Aman. The gear legs are light in color, looks like aluminum, but
are probably stainless spring steel something like that.
>
> --------
> "Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe through life
just to arrive safely at death"
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421296#421296
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Looking for an enclosed Slingshot trailer |
| From: | Dennis Rowe <rowedenny(at)windstream.net> |
Will do
Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, 690L-70, Leechburg, PA
> On Mar 30, 2014, at 2:23 PM, "George Bearden" wrote:
>
>
>> Very interested, please let me know the contact info
>
> And let me know too in case you decline.
>
> GeoB
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Sun and Fun 2014 |
Morning Folks:
Heading for the airstrip, then south to Lakeland, this morning. Weather
looks good all the way down, 420 sm. Probably take me 5 + 30 to get there,
unless I can find a good tailwind.
Talked to Travis this morning. The Kolb trailer is in place at Paradise
City.
Hope to see a bunch of you folks this year.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bent gear leg question... |
| From: | "woody" <n3022.176(at)gmail.com> |
I managed to bend mine too. The original legs are made out of 7075 aluminum.
Kolb wanted $125 apiece for them. My leg bent & splayed out & it tracked badly
so I went with spring steel.
When I pulled the leg I noticed that it had been replaced in the past more than
once by the holes in the frame & legs.
I built my own legs out of 4130 steel & had them heat treated. I don't expect to
have to straighten them but John Hauck says it can be done.
I had about $250 in the set with welding, machining & heat treat.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421374#421374
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Bearden" <gab16(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Bent gear leg question.. |
> using some blocks then taking a strong clamp to press the bow out.
This might work. The leg is fairly springy though. If you have a workshop or
a large enough place to keep tools, I suggest you buy a Harbor Freight 10T
press. It will come with some v-blocks which work wonderfully for this. You
can use the press for lots of things. If you work on stuff, I mean. Some
folks have no desire to collect tools. I wish them no ill-will, I just don't
understand them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pcking" <pc.king(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Bent gear leg question.. |
That's a nice tool.
I am impressed at how many tools HF can design around one bottle jack.
My favorite is the tickup truck crane.
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Bearden" <gab16(at)sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Monday, March 31, 2014 3:40 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Bent gear leg question..
>
>> using some blocks then taking a strong clamp to press the bow out.
>
> This might work. The leg is fairly springy though. If you have a workshop
> or
> a large enough place to keep tools, I suggest you buy a Harbor Freight 10T
> press. It will come with some v-blocks which work wonderfully for this.
> You
> can use the press for lots of things. If you work on stuff, I mean. Some
> folks have no desire to collect tools. I wish them no ill-will, I just
> don't
> understand them.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bent gear leg question.. |
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020(at)gmail.com> |
>From what I have so far read, his problem is minor at the very worst, and
the last thing he needs to do is try to correct something that could best
be described as "cosmetic". I went through the straightening exercise at
least a couple of times before I gave up and went to the steel gear legs.
My plane always dropped the right wing first and the bends were always in
that side of the landing gear. If he merely unbolts the gear leg in the
socket, turns it 180 degrees, the next time he drops it in the leg will
again be straight or bent in the other direction.
If he does decide that he has to straighten it, then he should find a good
"press" ( someone should have one among his friends) and suspend the leg
bent side up on some 2x4's, stick another on the high side and apply enough
pressure to go a bit past straight. That is of course necessary to allow
for the amount of spring in the leg. He should be very careful to not
scratch the alum. which is the reason for cradling it between wood.
Quite frankly wimpy alum. gear legs, have caused me more trouble than any
other feature of flying. I would advise every one that the change to 4130
spring steel gear legs will pay rewards that will make the change one of
the best things that you could do for yourself. The plane lands better with
taller legs, and the 4130 is forgiving enough that a sloppy or rough ground
landing will not cause damage to the plane, you will just bounce back into
the air. The theory is that the alum will bend thus preventing other damage
to the cage. However if the leg bends and you are carrying any speed, being
whipped into a ditch can cause some serious repairs, or a wheel snapping
off from hitting a rock can cause you to see the world from a bit different
perspective, such as upside down.
Just a hard won lesson that I have paid for three times. May not work for
you, but I wouldn't bet on it.
Larry
On Mon, Mar 31, 2014 at 1:40 PM, George Bearden wrote:
>
> > using some blocks then taking a strong clamp to press the bow out.
>
> This might work. The leg is fairly springy though. If you have a workshop
> or
> a large enough place to keep tools, I suggest you buy a Harbor Freight 10T
> press. It will come with some v-blocks which work wonderfully for this. You
> can use the press for lots of things. If you work on stuff, I mean. Some
> folks have no desire to collect tools. I wish them no ill-will, I just
> don't
> understand them.
>
>
--
*If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
address before sending.*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stuart Harner" <stuart(at)harnerfarm.net> |
| Subject: | covering & ink issue |
Just a word to all builders about making sure you get any and ALL marking
pen ink off before you cover.
This is stressed over and over in both the builder's manual and the Poly
Fiber manual. I worked and worked on it and thought I had it all cleaned
off. I made two complete trips around each side of each wing after I could
no longer detect any dirt on a paper towel soaked in lacquer thinner.
Only today when I rolled the wing over to finish the tapes on the underside,
did I notice ink bleeding through from under the false ribs all along the
leading edge!
All of the steps I took and not a bit of this showed up until I was using
the Poly-Brush to glue down the finishing tapes. :(
Kind of heart sick about it, as I was planning (even bought the paint
already) on having lemon yellow wings. I know this will bleed through that
and be ugly as sin. I know my workmanship is not very good, but this makes
it look much worse than it is. And of course, I did not find out until
after both wings are covered.
My backup plan (now) is to re-design my paint scheme so as to have a black
leading edge. This may not work out too bad, as I had planned on using some
black anyway.
MORRAL OF THE STORY:
Get some carb cleaner or brake cleaner in spray cans and blast the heck out
of all the rib connection points and anywhere else it may look like there
might be magic marker or ink that you cannot get to with a rag. A few $$
spent on a spray cleaner will save you a lot of problems.
All the parts that are not covered already are going to get an extra blast
cleaning before I do any other wipe down with lacquer thinner prior to
covering.
Stuart
PS Any other ideas on how to stop the bleed through?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bent gear leg question.. |
| From: | "GeoB" <gab16(at)sbcglobal.net> |
> put the gear leg in a receiver hitch
My truck has 4,000 lbs on the front wheels. Sometimes I just run over things to
bend them the way I want. Not applicable here.
--------
GeoB
"Members of Congress should be compelled to wear uniforms like NASCAR drivers,
so we could identify their corporate sponsors"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421393#421393
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: covering & ink issue |
| From: | B Young <byoungplumbing(at)gmail.com> |
Stewart
By the time you put on the silver Polly spray, that will cover all the
bleed through. Then got yellow to get it bright you put on white over
silver then yello.
Boyd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bent gear leg question.. |
I'd pay particular attention to Larry's advice on the 2x4's.
Scratches/dents on any highly stressed structure are bad, and if you
nick a gear leg while straightening, the next less than ideal landing
(or even some good landing sometime in the future) might result in the
remaining stub of leg digging into the runway.
Charlie
(been there, done that on tapered steel RV-4 legs using Harbor freight
press)
On 3/31/2014 3:39 PM, Larry Cottrell wrote:
> From what I have so far read, his problem is minor at the very worst,
> and the last thing he needs to do is try to correct something that
> could best be described as "cosmetic". I went through the
> straightening exercise at least a couple of times before I gave up and
> went to the steel gear legs.
>
> My plane always dropped the right wing first and the bends were always
> in that side of the landing gear. If he merely unbolts the gear leg in
> the socket, turns it 180 degrees, the next time he drops it in the leg
> will again be straight or bent in the other direction.
>
> If he does decide that he has to straighten it, then he should find a
> good "press" ( someone should have one among his friends) and suspend
> the leg bent side up on some 2x4's, stick another on the high side and
> apply enough pressure to go a bit past straight. That is of course
> necessary to allow for the amount of spring in the leg. He should be
> very careful to not scratch the alum. which is the reason for cradling
> it between wood.
>
> Quite frankly wimpy alum. gear legs, have caused me more trouble than
> any other feature of flying. I would advise every one that the change
> to 4130 spring steel gear legs will pay rewards that will make the
> change one of the best things that you could do for yourself. The
> plane lands better with taller legs, and the 4130 is forgiving enough
> that a sloppy or rough ground landing will not cause damage to the
> plane, you will just bounce back into the air. The theory is that the
> alum will bend thus preventing other damage to the cage. However if
> the leg bends and you are carrying any speed, being whipped into a
> ditch can cause some serious repairs, or a wheel snapping off from
> hitting a rock can cause you to see the world from a bit different
> perspective, such as upside down.
>
> Just a hard won lesson that I have paid for three times. May not work
> for you, but I wouldn't bet on it.
>
> Larry
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 31, 2014 at 1:40 PM, George Bearden > wrote:
>
> >
>
> > using some blocks then taking a strong clamp to press the bow out.
>
> This might work. The leg is fairly springy though. If you have a
> workshop or
> a large enough place to keep tools, I suggest you buy a Harbor
> Freight 10T
> press. It will come with some v-blocks which work wonderfully for
> this. You
> can use the press for lots of things. If you work on stuff, I
> mean. Some
> folks have no desire to collect tools. I wish them no ill-will, I
> just don't
> understand them.
>
>
> ==========
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Radio antenna question |
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
For several years we had receive problems with radio coms on the FSII N582EF, transmit
was ok, but receive was terrible, could not hear squat. Discovered putting
the antenna on the vertical fin was great, solved all sorts of problems.
Since it worked so good on that airplane, I tried it on the MKIII N420P and test
flew it today. Reception was wonderful, ATC sounded better than they ever have
before. Unfortunately, they could not understand anything I said. I was totally
unreadable.
Since I am electronically challenged, do any of you guys who understand this stuff better than me have any suggestions as to why this might be? I am using a Terra TPX 720 that has always worked well in the previous setup (antenna location here on the belly: http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg9.htm )
And it was Ok before, and I can put it back like it was, but any of you guys have
any ideas of why it did this? Or suggestions to try next?
For context: used new coax, used the same antenna, but straightened, extended straight
up from atop the front side of the vertical fin, slightly ahead of the
brace wires and rear vertical fin tube. Do not know if the antenna mount is grounded
to the airframe. Is that necessary? Aside from that, no other changes
from the previous setup.
Thanks
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
My soul shall be joyful in the LORD; It shall rejoice in His salvation. Psalm 35:9
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421408#421408
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Radio antenna question |
Hi Richard,
First, yes, the mount for the antenna should definitely be grounded to the
frame, which will then act as the needed counterpoise. (It affects signal
strength)
Except, I don't think that will solve your problem. If ATC can hear you,
but you are unintelligible, I would suspect some problem with the microphone
cabling, like RF feedback into the phone wiring.
I would suggest to find a buddy with a handheld transceiver, and see how
it operates on the ground, starting with engine off. If there are problems
already, check all the sensitive cabling like the phone input has its
shielding properly grounded. This is not a real easy problem to find and various
experiments may be needed, like keying up the transmitter with the Mike not
connected, etc, etc.
Let us know the results and if the problem is still in existence, the kind
of noise /distortion/ interference/ motorboating is heard at the receiving
end.
Herb Graff
Mk III, 246KT
In a message dated 3/31/2014 8:55:04 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
richard(at)bcchapel.org writes:
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Richard Pike"
For several years we had receive problems with radio coms on the FSII
N582EF, transmit was ok, but receive was terrible, could not hear squat.
Discovered putting the antenna on the vertical fin was great, solved all sorts
of
problems.
Since it worked so good on that airplane, I tried it on the MKIII N420P
and test flew it today. Reception was wonderful, ATC sounded better than they
ever have before. Unfortunately, they could not understand anything I
said. I was totally unreadable.
Since I am electronically challenged, do any of you guys who understand
this stuff better than me have any suggestions as to why this might be? I am
using a Terra TPX 720 that has always worked well in the previous setup
(antenna location here on the belly:
http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg9.htm )
And it was Ok before, and I can put it back like it was, but any of you
guys have any ideas of why it did this? Or suggestions to try next?
For context: used new coax, used the same antenna, but straightened,
extended straight up from atop the front side of the vertical fin, slightly
ahead of the brace wires and rear vertical fin tube. Do not know if the antenna
mount is grounded to the airframe. Is that necessary? Aside from that, no
other changes from the previous setup.
Thanks
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
My soul shall be joyful in the LORD; It shall rejoice in His salvation.
Psalm 35:9
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421408#421408
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bent gear leg question... |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
If you have a bolt on axle fitting, the gear leg is 7075-T6 aluminum. If
the gear leg an the axle fitting are welded the gear leg is normalized 4130
steel. Since it's bent it's unlikely that someone followed Hauck's advice
and had it heat treated, and since you say it is silver, it's most likely
aluminum.
My friendship with Mr Hydraulic Press is pretty well documented in the
archives so I'll give you the same advice Travis gave me. Wait until you
stop bending gear legs and then switch from aluminum to steel because gear
legs are a whole lot cheaper than fuselage weldments.
Rick Girard
On Mon, Mar 31, 2014 at 7:41 AM, Gary Aman wrote:
>
> Who knows what they are made of now Jeff. That was a couple owners ago.
> BUT I still have a set of Fiberglas
> Legs with the fittings at home. Makes it ride smoothly but so flexible it
> would toe in when pulled backward into the trailer,making it hard to pull
> so I put the aluminum ones back on.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Mar 30, 2014, at 2:38 PM, "Arizona Flyer"
> wrote:
> >
> heracesthesun(at)yahoo.com>
> >
> > One of my Firestar II gear legs have a slight bow from a hard landing.
> It causes no problems but when the plane is sitting, the wings are not
> quite level. If I put a straight edge on the bowed gear leg, there is about
> a 1/4" gap in the center. Is it ok to straighten it with a press of some
> type? I think I asked Travis at Kolb once and he said no, but he might have
> thought it is bent quite a bit more than it really is? I'm thinking about
> leaving the gear leg on the plane and taking channel iron to the top side
> and using some blocks then taking a strong clamp to press the bow out. What
> do you guys think? Is it ok to bend a slight bow out of one gear leg? I
> think this Firestar was built in 1997, built by Gary Aman. The gear legs
> are light in color, looks like aluminum, but are probably stainless spring
> steel something like that.
> >
> > --------
> > "Life should be lived as a bold adventure, I refuse to tiptoe
> through life just to arrive safely at death"
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421296#421296
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: covering & ink issue |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Design a graphic for you leading edge and use Aerothane. You'll lose the
easy repairability of Poly Tone, but since Aerothane is a catalyzed
urethane paint and doesn't have the MEK solvent mixture in it it will
encapsulate the ink.
Should that fail, you can always get vinyl graphic overlays like the NASCAR
teams do and cover it up that way.
Rick Girard
On Mon, Mar 31, 2014 at 6:16 PM, B Young wrote:
> Stewart
> By the time you put on the silver Polly spray, that will cover all the
> bleed through. Then got yellow to get it bright you put on white over
> silver then yello.
> Boyd
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bent gear leg question.. |
| From: | Richard Girard <aslsa.rng(at)gmail.com> |
Ditto on all the advice about avoiding nicks or scratches. I cut short
lengths of plastic pipe and slipped them over the leg so that the vee
blocks and the cylinder post cannot damage the leg. Trying to hold gear leg
with one hand, pump the hydraulic cylinder with the other and keep flat
blocks from slipping off at the same time will make you crazy.
Get the 20 ton press.
Rick Girard
On Mon, Mar 31, 2014 at 7:11 PM, Charlie England wrote:
> I'd pay particular attention to Larry's advice on the 2x4's.
> Scratches/dents on any highly stressed structure are bad, and if you nick a
> gear leg while straightening, the next less than ideal landing (or even
> some good landing sometime in the future) might result in the remaining
> stub of leg digging into the runway.
>
> Charlie
> (been there, done that on tapered steel RV-4 legs using Harbor freight
> press)
>
>
> On 3/31/2014 3:39 PM, Larry Cottrell wrote:
>
> From what I have so far read, his problem is minor at the very worst, and
> the last thing he needs to do is try to correct something that could best
> be described as "cosmetic". I went through the straightening exercise at
> least a couple of times before I gave up and went to the steel gear legs.
>
> My plane always dropped the right wing first and the bends were always
> in that side of the landing gear. If he merely unbolts the gear leg in the
> socket, turns it 180 degrees, the next time he drops it in the leg will
> again be straight or bent in the other direction.
>
> If he does decide that he has to straighten it, then he should find a
> good "press" ( someone should have one among his friends) and suspend the
> leg bent side up on some 2x4's, stick another on the high side and apply
> enough pressure to go a bit past straight. That is of course necessary to
> allow for the amount of spring in the leg. He should be very careful to not
> scratch the alum. which is the reason for cradling it between wood.
>
> Quite frankly wimpy alum. gear legs, have caused me more trouble than
> any other feature of flying. I would advise every one that the change to
> 4130 spring steel gear legs will pay rewards that will make the change one
> of the best things that you could do for yourself. The plane lands better
> with taller legs, and the 4130 is forgiving enough that a sloppy or rough
> ground landing will not cause damage to the plane, you will just bounce
> back into the air. The theory is that the alum will bend thus preventing
> other damage to the cage. However if the leg bends and you are carrying any
> speed, being whipped into a ditch can cause some serious repairs, or a
> wheel snapping off from hitting a rock can cause you to see the world from
> a bit different perspective, such as upside down.
>
> Just a hard won lesson that I have paid for three times. May not work
> for you, but I wouldn't bet on it.
>
> Larry
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 31, 2014 at 1:40 PM, George Bearden wrote:
>
>>
>> > using some blocks then taking a strong clamp to press the bow out.
>>
>> This might work. The leg is fairly springy though. If you have a workshop
>> or
>> a large enough place to keep tools, I suggest you buy a Harbor Freight 10T
>> press. It will come with some v-blocks which work wonderfully for this.
>> You
>> can use the press for lots of things. If you work on stuff, I mean. Some
>> folks have no desire to collect tools. I wish them no ill-will, I just
>> don't
>> understand them.
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
- Groucho Marx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bent gear leg question.. |
| From: | "Carolina Flyer" <joe.a.lawson(at)gmail.com> |
I can't remember where I found these pictures but it looks like this would work
very well to me.
Here is a way to help eliminate bent gear legs, check out the video
http://youtu.be/ysZBXy-pDzI
--------
Kolb Firestar II
503 C-Box / RK400
Soon to have a
Rotax 670 DCDI
with a C-Box and
RK 400 Clutch
Challenger II
503 Tall Drive
Location : Buffalo South Carolina
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421425#421425
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_169.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_132.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/image_168.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: covering & ink issue |
| From: | "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)wildblue.net> |
Never mark any metal parts that you will be covering with a magic marker, always
use a pencil.....
--------
Rick Lewis
(VW Watercooled Engine)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421480#421480
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charlie England <ceengland7(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: covering & ink issue |
On 4/1/2014 7:10 PM, Rick Lewis wrote:
>
> Never mark any metal parts that you will be covering with a magic marker, always
use a pencil.....
>
> --------
> Rick Lewis
>
> (VW Watercooled Engine)
>
Danger! Danger, Will Robinson! (Apologies to sci fi fans)
While you'll probably get away with it, lead pencil (carbon) on aluminum
is a big no-no due to corrosion potential.
Charlie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stuart Harner" <stuart(at)harnerfarm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: covering & ink issue |
Yeah, these were marks from the factory. I knew they were there and thought
I had removed all the ink.
Apparently, there was some still under the rib where I could not see it. A
good spray down with carb cleaner would have blasted into the space and
removed the ink. I am thinking a blast from the front and one from the
back, then let it sit a minute and do it again. Holding a paper towel on
the other side while blasting should show any traces of ink. Spray until
none is seen.
Woulda, coulda, shoulda.
Stuart
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Lewis
Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2014 7:11 PM
Subject: Kolb-List: Re: covering & ink issue
Never mark any metal parts that you will be covering with a magic marker,
always use a pencil.....
--------
Rick Lewis
(VW Watercooled Engine)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421480#421480
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Questions from a new member for UltraStar owners. |
| From: | "nmctflyer" <adrielh(at)mac.com> |
1. What is the maximum propeller diameter possible on an UltraStar?
2. What is the best glide speed for an UltraStar?
3. What is the minimum sink speed for an UltraStar?
I know the speeds can be difficult to pinpoint, but your best guess would be appreciated.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421489#421489
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Radio antenna question |
| From: | "Richard Pike" <richard(at)bcchapel.org> |
Thanks to all who emailed me with suggestions, I think I found the problem: while
redoing the switch panel this winter I modified how the 12V power gets to the
radio and apparently that is the problem. I think if I go back to wiring the
radio directly to the battery things will improve.
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
My soul shall be joyful in the LORD; It shall rejoice in His salvation. Psalm 35:9
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421494#421494
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Bearden" <gab16(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Kolb-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 04/01/14 |
> always use a pencil
And never use a pencil to mark ignition, electrical or electronics! :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Firefly with 503? |
| From: | "Tony Vitiello" <tony(at)tgrankin.com> |
I've been following the Kolb list for years but this is my first post. I'm a private
pilot (not officially current) and have been flying my Quicksilver Sprint
single seat for the past 2 years.
I've had my eyes on Kolbs for years and I like all of them but am currently considering
building a Firefly or Firestar II. I've had the chance to fly a friends
Firefly and couldn't believe how well it handled. I've been told the Firestar
II handles well also but does not have the same "sports car" responsiveness
of the Firefly.
I have a low time late model 503 DCDI in my Quicksilver and due to the lack of
new 447/503's I'd probably like to use this engine in my Kolb. I've talked to
Travis at Kolb about using a 503 in a Firefly and other than making it a bit
overweight for part 103 he said it would work fine.
That brings me to my question. Has anyone on this list ran a DCDI 503 in a Firefly?
If so, how did it work out? Any issues with the additional weight or power?
Does anyone have photos of the 503 installed?
I could convert the 503 to single carb to lower the weight and HP a bit. I do
like the redundancy of the dual ignition though.
I have not ruled out the Firestar II which the 503 is perfect for but I will be
flying solo most of the time and the guys that have flown both the Firestar II
and the Firefly really like the Firefly.
--------
Tony Vitiello
St. Louis, MO
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421509#421509
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Beauford " <beauford173(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Firefly with 503? |
Brother Vitiello:
When ordering my Fly kit from the original Kolb in 1998, there was a
discussion about making certain
that my cage was constructed with the .035 wall thickness chromoloy, versus
the .028 which was, as I
recall, standard on the Fly back then. Eventually mounting a 503 on it was
an option that had occurred to me
and Kolb obliged me by using the heavier tube for my cage.
It could be worth checking to see what wall thickness is currently in use
for Fly cages and whether options are available
which could offer an advantage for carrying the larger engine.
Worth what ye paid fer it, sir...
Beauford
FF-076, N173BW
Brandon, FL
...
-----Original Message-----
I've talked to Travis at Kolb about using a 503 in a Firefly and other than
making it a bit overweight for part 103 he said it would work fine.
That brings me to my question. Has anyone on this list ran a DCDI 503 in a
Firefly? If so, how did it work out? Any issues with the additional weight
or power?
--------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firefly with 503? |
| From: | "Tony Vitiello" <tony(at)tgrankin.com> |
I believe that Travis told me that all of the Fireflies are now built with the
heavier wall tubing. I'll verify that before ordering.
So you built yours with the 503? How did it work out?
--------
Tony Vitiello
St. Louis, MO
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421514#421514
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firefly with 503? |
| From: | "Tony Vitiello" <tony(at)tgrankin.com> |
Oh, I see. After flying my friend's Firefly with a 447, I completely agree that
the 447 is more than enough power. In fact, the only reason I'd use the 503
instead is that it has dual ignition and I have a 503 that I know the history
of. If I could get a brand new 447 I'd probably lean that direction. I appreciate
your input.
So anyone actually have a Firefly with a 503?
--------
Tony Vitiello
St. Louis, MO
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421518#421518
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Kolb flight video |
| From: | "Larlaeb" <larlaeb(at)gmail.com> |
Experimenting with multiple cameras, still a little rough. A muddy day though.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BxdXwdWJkFExX2pCSGE0QVprclk/edit
Thanks,
Allan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421543#421543
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb flight video |
| From: | "Rick Lewis" <cktman(at)wildblue.net> |
Very nice video, Thanks
--------
Rick Lewis
(VW Watercooled Engine)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421546#421546
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Radio antenna question |
>
>For several years we had receive problems with radio coms on the FSII N582EF,
transmit was ok, but receive was terrible, could not hear squat. Discovered putting
the antenna on the vertical fin was great, solved all sorts of problems.
>
>Since it worked so good on that airplane, I tried it on the MKIII N420P and test
flew it today. Reception was wonderful, ATC sounded better than they ever have
before. Unfortunately, they could not understand anything I said. I was totally
unreadable.
>
>Since I am electronically challenged, do any of you guys who understand this stuff better than me have any suggestions as to why this might be? I am using a Terra TPX 720 that has always worked well in the previous setup (antenna location here on the belly: http://www.bcchapel.org/pages/0003/pg9.htm )
>
>Richard Pike
>Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
>Kingsport, TN 3TN0
>My soul shall be joyful in the LORD; It shall rejoice in His salvation. Psalm
35:9
>
>
Richard,
You can purchase ferrite snap beads from allelectronics.com for about $2. They
are wonderful for chasing problems such as yours. Snap it over the microphone
and/or power lead and see if it helps. Easy to do and it helps define where
the problem is and when you find it just leave it in place.
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Kolb flight video |
| From: | Larry Cottrell <lcottrell1020(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks for the video. I liked it a lot! Pretty impressive.
Larry
On Thu, Apr 3, 2014 at 4:05 PM, Larlaeb wrote:
>
> Experimenting with multiple cameras, still a little rough. A muddy day
> though.
>
>
> https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BxdXwdWJkFExX2pCSGE0QVprclk/edit
>
> Thanks,
> Allan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=421543#421543
>
>
--
*If you forward this email, or any part of it, please remove my email
address before sending.*
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack B. Hart" <jbhart(at)onlyinternet.net> |
| Subject: | Firefly Web Site |
Kolbers, I need some help.
After 14 years the server hosting my web site dumped me without warning.
I need to find a new host. Do you have any you would recommend?
Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim.baker(at)windstream.net |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly Web Site |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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly Web Site |
I have a 2000+- member site at Yahoo...works very well..for pics, files
and email. and free..Herb
On 04/05/2014 10:45 AM, Jack B. Hart wrote:
>
> Kolbers, I need some help.
>
> After 14 years the server hosting my web site dumped me without warning.
>
> I need to find a new host. Do you have any you would recommend?
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Winchester, IN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herb <herbgh(at)nctc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firefly Web Site |
this one looks good...:http://webfreehosting.net/
Herb
>
> Kolbers, I need some help.
>
> After 14 years the server hosting my web site dumped me without warning.
>
> I need to find a new host. Do you have any you would recommend?
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Winchester, IN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firefly Web Site |
| From: | Robert Laird <rlaird(at)cavediver.com> |
I've used Bluehost for years
On Saturday, April 5, 2014, Jack B. Hart wrote:
> >
>
> Kolbers, I need some help.
>
> After 14 years the server hosting my web site dumped me without warning.
>
> I need to find a new host. Do you have any you would recommend?
>
> Jack B. Hart FF004
> Winchester, IN
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Sky Biker <smlplanet(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | RE: What Runway? |
From: smlplanet(at)msn.com
=0A
=0A
=0A
Subject: What Runway?Date: Sat=2C 5 Apr 2014 20:27:15 -0400