Pietenpol-Archive.digest.vol-bn
February 23, 2000 - April 10, 2000
| From: | fishin <fishin(at)wwa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Potential builder needs cockpit dimensions |
inside dimensions = 22" snug, but my 220# fits ok but- - - - - -I
hope to be under 200 by
completion,,,,,,got about a year to get there
JoeC
Zion, Illinois
>
> Hi,
> I'm new to the list and considering building one of these great airplanes.
> Can anyone give me the shoulder dimensions of the cockpit?
> Thanks,
> Dave Foelker
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Shoun <wbnb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Potential builder needs cockpit dimensions |
Dave,
As you chat with more builders, you will find that several folks add 2" to
both the fuselage width,
and to the cabane strut height, for easy entry and more comfortable flying.
Cheers,
Warren
Foelker David J Maj 50FTS/ADO wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I'm new to the list and considering building one of these great airplanes.
> Can anyone give me the shoulder dimensions of the cockpit?
> Thanks,
> Dave Foelker
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | website for engine mounts,engine stuff, intake design |
I need this website so I can study the engine mounts.
Steve
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Loar <skycarl(at)megsinet.net> |
Thanks to everyone who responded to my plywood question.
The info, as usual, was very helpful,,,, as I build this plane, I hope
to be able to contribute some useful answers,,, but for now,
questions, questions, questions
Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Potential builder needs cockpit dimensions |
What no one pointed out to you is that there is no "shoulder width" to the
Piet cockpit. Your shoulders are way above the sides of the fuselage.
What you refer to is the "hip", or maybe "elbow" width.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Foelker David J Maj 50FTS/ADO <david.foelker(at)columbus.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Potential builder needs cockpit dimensions |
Thanks to all for the comments on Piet dimensions. This looks like a great
forum for info.
Dave Foelker
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gene Rambo [SMTP:rambog(at)erols.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2000 4:52 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Potential builder needs cockpit
> dimensions
>
>
> What no one pointed out to you is that there is no "shoulder width" to the
> Piet cockpit. Your shoulders are way above the sides of the fuselage.
> What you refer to is the "hip", or maybe "elbow" width.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Prange Larry J PSNS <prangel(at)psns.navy.mil> |
| Subject: | Ford Engine Mounting Problem |
Ladies and Gentlemen,
I am building an 'A' Ford Air Camper. The plans call for a 'Ford spring' to
be attached to each of the four mounting bolts that attach the engine to the
two Ash bearers. I got the four Ford springs and the set of bolts/nuts (AN)
that the plans call for. But I guess that I am too dense to figure out what
Bernie had in mind. The two mounting holes in the block on the engine's
Port side (the carb/exhaust side) are VERY close to the vertical side of the
block. They are so close that the nut, washer and spring, that are supposed
to fit there, will not fit because the vertical block wall is so close. The
bearers are so narrow that the bolts must be completely vertical or they
won't have any wood to hold on to.
I considered grinding into the block at those two points, but the block wall
is only 0.170" thick there. The bolts are too long to go in from the block
side, down into the bearer. I guess could put the bolts in from the bottom
with the spring UNDER the bearer and the nut at the top. But, I would still
have to grind off most of one side of the nut to get it to fit between the
bolt and the side of the block.
I'm sure that I am not the first builder to face this problem, but since I
have never seen a Ford Air Camper in person, I don't know what the 'Best
Practice' would be.
Thank you in advance for the help,
Larry Prange
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John McNarry" <jmcnarry(at)techplus.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ford Engine Mounting Problem |
Hi Larry
I looked on my set of plans Orrin Hoopman 1933 Improved Version.
Drawing No. 8 shows the bolts ( heads down) up through the bearer through a
layer of leather then through the spring (Ford part No. 2742 ) and then
double nutted. I would be inclined to use the AN hard ware and cattoer pin
it as well. I also would not be afraid of grinding the side wall of the
block to get nut clearance provided it didn't become thinnner that about
1/16" and was blended into the thicker wall. I wouldn't make the pan flange
area any thinner.
I think that Bernard's idea was that the short stiff Ford spring would
take up any change in dimension as the wood and leather worn in. Think of it
like this the weight of the engine rests all along the white ash bearer and
the bolts pull the airframe along behind the Ford block.
Hope this helps.
John Mc
Piet/GN-1/ Me Cirrus power. Was to be a Ford B but that Cirrus engine is
just too neat to leave alone.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce J. Park" <bjpark(at)dmci.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Potential builder needs cockpit dimensions |
I am building a Skyscout with model "A" engine. The plans in F & G are 22".
I widened them to 24". These are inside-inside dims. B.J. PARK. bjpark@
dmci.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Foelker David J Maj 50FTS/ADO <david.foelker(at)columbus.af.mil>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Potential builder needs cockpit dimensions
>
> Hi,
> I'm new to the list and considering building one of these great airplanes.
> Can anyone give me the shoulder dimensions of the cockpit?
> Thanks,
> Dave Foelker
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mboynton(at)excite.com |
for" ;
| Subject: | Re: Ford Engine Mounting Problem |
John,
What is the Cirrus engine?
Mark Boynton
Gilbert, AZ
>
> Hi Larry
> I looked on my set of plans Orrin Hoopman 1933 Improved Version.
> Drawing No. 8 shows the bolts ( heads down) up through the bearer through
a
> layer of leather then through the spring (Ford part No. 2742 ) and then
> double nutted. I would be inclined to use the AN hard ware and cattoer
pin
> it as well. I also would not be afraid of grinding the side wall of the
> block to get nut clearance provided it didn't become thinnner that about
> 1/16" and was blended into the thicker wall. I wouldn't make the pan
flange
> area any thinner.
> I think that Bernard's idea was that the short stiff Ford spring
would
> take up any change in dimension as the wood and leather worn in. Think of
it
> like this the weight of the engine rests all along the white ash bearer
and
> the bolts pull the airframe along behind the Ford block.
> Hope this helps.
> John Mc
> Piet/GN-1/ Me Cirrus power. Was to be a Ford B but that Cirrus engine is
> just too neat to leave alone.
>
>
>
>
>
Get 100% FREE Internet Access powered by Excite
Visit http://freeworld.excite.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Brusilow" <mb-albany(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Potential builder needs cockpit dimensions |
>
>What no one pointed out to you is that there is no "shoulder width" to the
>Piet cockpit. Your shoulders are way above the sides of the fuselage.
>What you refer to is the "hip", or maybe "elbow" width.
>
Cockpit suggestions:
Lower the seat as far down as possible.
Install a large windscreen
Lengthen the cabane struts
Install a flop. Extend it to the first bay.
Mike B Piet N 687MB ( Mr sam )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Borodent(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Potential builder needs cockpit dimensions |
Mike B, what do you mean install a flop and extend it- what is a flop
Henry W working on ribs, and body
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Brusilow" <mb-albany(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Potential builder needs cockpit dimensions |
>
>Mike B, what do you mean install a flop and extend it- what is a flop
>Henry W working on ribs, and body
"Flop" is Bernards' word. Rather than a wing cut out above the cockpit he
installed a flap like device extending from the rear spar to the trailing
edge of the center section. The flop is hinged. Sure makes getting in & out
of the cockpit a snap.
I extended it to the first bay of the left wing. That allows me to stand
upright alongside the cockpit.
Mike B Piet N687MB ( Mr Sam )
________________________________________________________________________________
pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com, fly5k(at)listbot.com, airsoob(at)lists.kz,
Piet_Builder(at)listbot.com
I need one cub wheel. I have one but the other one got stolen. Its 600x6,
1 -1/4 bearings. I hope someone has one!
Steve
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SAM & JAN MARINUCCI" <srmjem(at)ezol.com> |
Hi Guys ,
Does anyone know if the BPA is still an active organization or
is it defunct? Are the newsletters still being published? I'd like to join
but heard the newsletters aren't being sent out anymore. Can anyone shed
some light on this?
Thanks,
Sam
>
________________________________________________________________________________
fly5k(at)listbot.com, airsoob(at)lists.kz, Piet_Builder(at)listbot.com
I ment 600x4 wheels.
Steve
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Brusilow" <mb-albany(at)worldnet.att.net> |
>
>Hi Guys ,
> Does anyone know if the BPA is still an active organization or
>is it defunct? Are the newsletters still being published? I'd like to join
>but heard the newsletters aren't being sent out anymore. Can anyone shed
>some light on this?
> Thanks,
> Sam
Right, the newsletter is defunct. Grant MacLaren ceased publishing the
newsletter as of Dec 00.
Anyway, that's the last I heard.
Mike B Piet N687MB ( Mr Sam )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | fishin <fishin(at)wwa.com> |
I e-mailed the past BPA newsletter editor about 1 1/2 months ago asking the same
questions...never received any reply....don't recommend sending any money as we
are still missing a couple of issues from last year..
regards
JoeC
SAM & JAN MARINUCCI wrote:
>
> Hi Guys ,
> Does anyone know if the BPA is still an active organization or
> is it defunct? Are the newsletters still being published? I'd like to join
> but heard the newsletters aren't being sent out anymore. Can anyone shed
> some light on this?
> Thanks,
> Sam
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eugene Hubbard <gsquid(at)earthlink.net> |
I did send a check for membership in the middle of last year and never received
anything. No answer to my e-mail follow-up either.
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Conrad, Bart D" <Bart.Conrad(at)na.boeing.com> |
Is everyone familiar with the International Pietenpol Association? They put
out a similar newsletter - three 16 page issues per year for $15.00. The
newsletter includes some color photos. Contact is as follows:
Rober L Taylor, Publisher/Editor
International Pietenpol Association
P.O. Box 127
Blakesburg, Iowa 52536
Bart Conrad
Boeing Field Service Rep - Hobby Field
Douglas Products Division & 737 Hvy Maint
Phone: 713-640-5882
Fax: 713-640-5891
E-mail: bart.conrad(at)na.boeing.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Sam,
I haven't heard anything about the BPA. I had submitted some additional
money to the extend my subscription to the end of the year and was
suppossed to get a couple more issues, but they never came. There some
discussion at Brodhead this summer about who was to take over and I
thought there was a couple of people who were willing to do it and it
only needed to be decided who was going to get it. Don't know what's
going on, but it doesn't look good.
I really feel bad about this and really miss the newsletters. Grant did
a great job on it and needs to be commended for his work.
John Langston
Pipe Creek, TX
nle97(at)juno.com
writes:
>
>
>Hi Guys ,
> Does anyone know if the BPA is still an active
>organization or
>is it defunct? Are the newsletters still being published? I'd like to
>join
>but heard the newsletters aren't being sent out anymore. Can anyone
>shed
>some light on this?
> Thanks,
> Sam
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Domenico Bellissimo" <adbell(at)yesic.com> |
I sent in dues last year and have not received any newsletter. I know Grant
was in the midst of building a house and doubt that he has even opened the
mail from last year. My money order hasn't been cashed yet.
Domenico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airplaneman123(at)aol.com |
John,
You are absolutely right. Grant needs to be acknowledged somehow for the
MANY contributions he has made over the years. I had fallen out of the loop
for a while, and when I returned, Grant, as well as the newsletter, was gone.
That hurt.
What should be done? Can he even be reached? Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Brusilow" <mb-albany(at)worldnet.att.net> |
>
>John,
> You are absolutely right. Grant needs to be acknowledged somehow for the
>MANY contributions he has made over the years. I had fallen out of the loop
>for a while, and when I returned, Grant, as well as the newsletter, was
gone.
>That hurt.
> What should be done? Can he even be reached? Ron
I believe that some sort of presentation was made to Grant at OSH this past
year during the Piet homecoming.
Mike B Piet N687MB ( Mr Sam )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | fishin <fishin(at)wwa.com> |
> , Grant, as well as the newsletter, was
> gone.
> >That hurt.
> > What should be done? Can he even be reached? Ron
>
> I believe that some sort of presentation was made to Grant at OSH this past
> year during the Piet homecoming.
>
> Mike B Piet N687MB ( Mr Sam )
> perhaps that presentation had a reverse effect in that nobody has heard from
him
> since....hard to believe that his moving has caused his promise to complete
the year
> as the newsletter editor to be ignored .....too bad, I thought highly of him.
regards
JoeC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Duprey <j-m-duprey(at)erols.com> |
I wrote an E-mail to grant last summer, volunteering to take over the
newsletter. I never heard anything back from him.
John
fishin wrote:
>
>
> > , Grant, as well as the newsletter, was
> > gone.
> > >That hurt.
> > > What should be done? Can he even be reached? Ron
> >
> > I believe that some sort of presentation was made to Grant at OSH this past
> > year during the Piet homecoming.
> >
> > Mike B Piet N687MB ( Mr Sam )
> > perhaps that presentation had a reverse effect in that nobody has heard from
him
> > since....hard to believe that his moving has caused his promise to complete
the year
> > as the newsletter editor to be ignored .....too bad, I thought highly of
him.
>
> regards
> JoeC
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce J. Park" <bjpark(at)dmci.net> |
Sam & Jan: Type in "pietenpol" in your search engine and it will take you to
the Piet website. Lots of info there for all. B.J.P.
----- Original Message -----
From: SAM & JAN MARINUCCI <srmjem(at)ezol.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: : BPA
>
> Hi Guys ,
> Does anyone know if the BPA is still an active organization or
> is it defunct? Are the newsletters still being published? I'd like to join
> but heard the newsletters aren't being sent out anymore. Can anyone shed
> some light on this?
> Thanks,
> Sam
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Brusilow" <mb-albany(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Heard from Grant. He is totally involved in building his house. When it is
finished, he will proably put out the last newsletter.
For those who have received the newsletter in the past this is not news. He
has said the above in both the newsletter & on his web page.
Mike B Piet N687MB ( Mr Sam )
________________________________________________________________________________
fly5k(at)listbot.com
I need too know the usual length of the lift struts and uprights on an
average for the pietenpol.
Thanks
Steve
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glang007(at)aol.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Glang007(at)aol.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DonanClara(at)aol.com |
Joe C et al....I second that re; not sending money. Grant has not responded
to several of my letters and e-mails about not getting copies that I had paid
for. I then sent extra money and have still heard nothing. That's a shame to
end it like that...don't know what happened...he had done a fantastic job and
just never seemed like a guy who would go back on his word and quit early
Don
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mr. Carmen A. Natalie" <carmen(at)cana.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 02/26/00 |
Things happen in life.
Grant has been there for Pietenpolers for many years. I don't know the
details of his move, but there might be circumstances beyond his immediate
control which are preventing him from staying in contact, or finishing out
the year as editor.
Also - time has a way of slipping by-- I just started getting ready to
work on my Piet again and realized that I first cut wood in Feb of
'91...!!! How can it be that so many years has passed, when this was to be
a 2 year project?
-Carmen
>From: John Duprey <j-m-duprey(at)erols.com>
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: : BPA
>
>
>I wrote an E-mail to grant last summer, volunteering to take over the
>newsletter. I never heard anything back from him.
>
>John
>
----------------------
Mr. Carmen A. Natalie
President
CA Natalie Associates, Inc
CANA WebSystems
100 State Street Suite 1040
Albany, New York 12207
http://www.cana.com
phone 518.436.4932
fax 518.436.4933
----------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Machining Work Needed... |
Listers,
I am currently in need of some aluminum machining work that involves
milling the faceplate for the FuelScan instrument manufactured by
Matronics. I have done this work in-house on our own CNC vertical mill
in the past and this has proved cost affective and allowed for the
fine tuning of the design. I am now in need of a rather large lot of
units and would like to farm the work out if I can obtain a reasonable
cost point.
I have compiled a detailed set of files that include a DXF drawing of
the faceplate, the GCodes that I have used to create the piece, a number
of very clear photos of the finished unit, and a text file of general
notes on milling the faceplate. These are contained within the Zip
file below:
http://www.matronics.com/fuelscan/faceplate.zip
If you have the necessary CNC capability and would be interested quoting
on the job, please contact me via email at the following address:
dralle(at)matronics.com
I will provide you with quantities and needed delivery schedule.
Thank you for your assistance.
Matt Dralle
Matronics
Email List Admin.
RV-4 Builder
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Swanson <swans071(at)gold.tc.umn.edu> |
Hey guys-
A friend stopped by today and asked if I wanted to buy a Model A engine! So
now I have to figure out what to do next.
Can any of you recommend someone to rebuild this for me? Quality is more
important than shipping distance. I am in Minneapolis. I heard of someone
in Ohio who has built several Piet engines for builders. I understand that
if he knows it is for a Piet he takes extra care in matching pistons etc.
Can anyone supply his number if you know who it is, or do you have other
recommendations?
Thanks for the help.
Al Swanson
swans071(at)tc.umn.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | fishin <fishin(at)wwa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Model A Rebuild |
> a bit closer to you is Antique Engine Rebuilders in Skokie Illinois. they
> specialize in model As. 2 years ago a rebuild your block was approx $1200 and
> if I remember the necessary machining for Piet use was another$135. they had
> done several Piet engines so they know what is necessary. I'll see if I can
> locate the phone number and address or I'm sure you can get them through tel.
> information.
regards
JoeC
Zion, Illinois
>
>
> Can any of you recommend someone to rebuild this for me? Quality is more
> important than shipping distance. I am in Minneapolis. I heard of someone
> in Ohio who has built several Piet engines for builders. I understand that
> if he knows it is for a Piet he takes extra care in matching pistons etc.
>
> Can anyone supply his number if you know who it is, or do you have other
> recommendations?
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Al Swanson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Model A Rebuild |
Al,
I can't help on the engine question, but I have a question for you. Are
there any get togethers for Piet projects in the Mn. area? I live in Arden
Hills and am a an EAA member but not a chapter. I have been meaning to
check out a chapter, do you know which would be best for the Piet or a get
together of Piet projectswould be helpful. Any thoughts?
Dick Navratil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alan Swanson" <swans071(at)gold.tc.umn.edu>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Model A Rebuild
>
> Hey guys-
>
> A friend stopped by today and asked if I wanted to buy a Model A engine!
So
> now I have to figure out what to do next.
>
> Can any of you recommend someone to rebuild this for me? Quality is more
> important than shipping distance. I am in Minneapolis. I heard of someone
> in Ohio who has built several Piet engines for builders. I understand
that
> if he knows it is for a Piet he takes extra care in matching pistons etc.
>
> Can anyone supply his number if you know who it is, or do you have other
> recommendations?
>
> Thanks for the help.
>
> Al Swanson
> swans071(at)tc.umn.edu
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl Loar <skycarl(at)megsinet.net> |
Just thought I'd mention how well Jean Peters of Western Aircraft Supply
puts his spruce kits together. I recieved my fuse package Saturday from
him and I'm very happy with what I got. The wood is beautiful, cut very
close to fit, most pieces are numbered with sharp square cuts.
It might cost a little more ( and I'm really counting pennys on this
project ),
but it was worth it. I've got my side jiged and ready to gusset and glue.
Thanks to all that referred him to me.
Carl
PS,,,,, If your here in the states, expect to deal with customs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | leonstefanhutks(at)webtv.net (Leon Stefan) |
I second Carl Loar's comments on wood from Western Aircraft. If you use
substitute wood, you must still make sure it is aircraft grade. This
takes education and time and wasted wood on your part. Or you can turn
it over to a professional and use that time to learn welding, fabric, or
other necessities of airplane building. Leon S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airplaneman123(at)aol.com |
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2000 08:41:04 -0500
From: Michael Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy(at)lerc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Grant
Hello Ron-
I'm no longer active on the Piet list but from time to time
look at the archives to see if I can be of any help.
With regard to Grant MacLaren- he has ceased being editor &
publisher of the BPAN as of January, 2000.
There is a possibility that when things settle down for Grant
he may, and I emphasize MAY send out the few newsletters
remaining that he was not able to get out the last few months of
1999. He will continue to update the website though.
Grant had done the newsletter for TEN years and as you
all know it was a fantastic publication.
Grant was overwhelmed this year with major house renovations,
some of which went sour on him and he had to take charge to
make sure the contractor did everything as his plans showed.
There were several people who expressed interest in carrying on
the newsletter but no firm commitments were made. Grant had
hoped I would take over the newsletter but I respectfully declined.
(Maybe if I were retired it would be fun.) We did try to honor Grant
for his years of dedicated service during the 70th Anniversary gathering
of the Piets at Oshkosh and were to present a nice plaque we had made
up for him to be presented at for his Theater in The Woods presentation.
Unfortunately, Grant was not able to attend Oshkosh so the plaque was
given to Frank Pavliga who tracked Grant down eventually at Brodhead
a few days later, but no formal presentation occurred and that's what we
were hoping for at Oshkosh or Brodhead, but neither happened.
Hopefully Grant knows what a fantastic contribution he's made to our
Pietenpol movement, but I can't help feel he's a bit disappointed in the
lack
of response shown in taking over the newsletter.
(Please forward this message to the Piet discussion group if you
feel so inclined.)
Best Regards to you
and the entire group,
Mike Cuy
NX48MC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "drmeece" <drmeece(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Fabric expert needed |
Hello List
I hope someone can help me out with some info. I have some cloth that I
would like to use to cover the Piet But I'm not sure it will work. The only
info I have is the lable on the box. It reads 52"x26'6" DB 7.8oz Fil NY 6.6
From this small amount of info can anyone tell if this cloth will work.
Thank You
Daryl Meece
Just order plans
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Beanlands <kbeanlan(at)spots.ab.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fabric expert needed |
WOW, 7.8 oz fabric! You could cover the shuttle with that stuff
;-). Seriously though, 7.8 oz is way too heavy for aircraft use. I suspect
that it's sailcloth. Most piets are covered with 1.8 oz fabric and a few
with 2.7 oz. 3.7 oz is the heaviest used on aircraft and is reserved for
things like ag-planes, DC-3's etc, bellies and LG of lighter planes. By
the time you applied enoughchemical to seal the paint, it would be quite
heavy.
THe other thing is that there is no way to tell if the fabric was
pre-shrunk at the factory or not. Aircraft fabric does not go through the
last polymerization cycle. That is left for after the fabric is installed
on the plane. This alows the builder to shrink the fabric using an
iron. If this is done at the factory, you'll never get a taught fabric job
onthe plane.
Besides, fabric is cheap. My Christavia used 45 yds of 102 (2.7 oz) and it
was only $6 per yard for a total of $270 and you can even get cheaper
stuff if you go with the non-certified stuff that ACS sells (same stuff,
different label). Considering that the rest of the covering systems
generally cost about $1700, I wouldn't scrimp on the fabric by using
something you have no data on. I'd try and find someone involved in
sailing and unload it with them. Besides, it takes 6' x 135' so your
52"x26'6" won't come anywhere near covering the plane.
Hope that helps.
Ken
On Tue, 29 Feb 2000, drmeece wrote:
>
> Hello List
> I hope someone can help me out with some info. I have some cloth that I
> would like to use to cover the Piet But I'm not sure it will work. The only
> info I have is the lable on the box. It reads 52"x26'6" DB 7.8oz Fil NY 6.6
> >From this small amount of info can anyone tell if this cloth will work.
> Thank You
> Daryl Meece
> Just order plans
>
>
>
>
>
Ken Beanlands B.Eng (Aerospace)
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Christavia MK 1 C-GREN
<http://www.spots.ab.ca/~kbeanlan>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Conrad, Bart D" <Bart.Conrad(at)na.boeing.com> |
| Subject: | LANDING GEAR - SPLIT AXLE |
I am currently looking over the landing gear section of the Piet drawings
and have a concern with the 3/4 inch 18 gage tubes (shock struts) and their
end fittings. The end fitting consists of a U-shaped 13 gage reinforcing
strip welded in slot in end of shock struts. According to an EAA welding
book this design is not good because of too much cold working and welding.
I drew up an end fitting using what the EAA book recommended. Now I am
stepping back and thinking that the recommended end fitting looks like a lot
of maching and $$$.
Question: Has anyone ever seen the shock strut end fitting design shown in
the plans fail on a Piet or have cracking problems. As
always, I am
looking at the most simple/practical/least expensive means of
construction. I would prefer to stick to the plans but want
to
produce a quality product. Any and all comments welcome.
Thanks,
Bart
Bart Conrad
Boeing Field Service Rep - Hobby Field
Douglas Products Division & 737 Hvy Maint
Phone: 713-640-5882
Fax: 713-640-5891
E-mail: bart.conrad(at)na.boeing.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: LANDING GEAR - SPLIT AXLE |
Bart,
Our plane isn't flying yet -- hopefully the end of next summer. We made
our struts as per the plans and had no real difficulty bending the 13
gauge steel (4130) to fit inside. Then I just welded it up. I don't
believe we are going to have any problems with this and with the weight
of the airplane bouncing against the bungee cords, you need all the
strength you can get. This area is really going to take a beating as it
does in other similiar airplanes.
John Langston
Pipe Creek, TX
nle97(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Brusilow" <mb-albany(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LANDING GEAR - SPLIT AXLE |
>
>Question: Has anyone ever seen the shock strut end fitting design shown in
> the plans fail on a Piet or have cracking problems. As
>always, I am
> looking at the most simple/practical/least expensive means
of
>
> construction. I would prefer to stick to the plans but want
>to
> produce a quality product. Any and all comments welcome.
>Thanks,
>Bart
Hey Bart:
Maybe this will help. My gear is plans built. My Piet has been flying since
1988. Most of the flying has been from hard surface runways except for a
couple of trips to Brodhead. That was hay fields. ( ask Andy King ).
Anyway, I'm not the best pilot in the world, & let me tell you I have made
some hard landings. Dropped it in from way up. In fact one time I thought I
broke the spar.
The gear is still there, as good as the day it was built & with the original
shocks cords yet.
I think Brenard broke the code.
Mike B Piet N687MB ( Mr Sam )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | leonstefanhutks(at)webtv.net (Leon Stefan) |
Hello Mike B. What does Mr. Sam mean? Leom S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "drmeece" <drmeece(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | rep fabriuc expert needed |
Ken
Thanks alot that does indeed help. I'm new at this and I know nothing
about covering a airplane. I have ordered a book and a viedo from EAA but
that hasn't got here yet. I had no ideal that the cloth was that cheap.In
fact I heard somewhere that it cost $2000.00 To cover a plane the size of a
piet. I mistakenly thought a large percent of that cost was cloth. I know
better now.
Daryl
Just getting started
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gower <ggower_99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Douglas fir spars: |
If you are not sure about choosing the wood yourself,
contact a local EAA Chapter, they will lead you to a
builder near your area that will be pleased in giving
you advise.
Saludos
Gary Gower
--- Doug wrote:
>
>
> >Pietenpol-List message posted by: vistin(at)juno.com
>
> >I have found some Doug fir in 16 foot lengths and
> want to know if it can
> >be used for piet spars.
>
> >Steve
>
> >>>Steve W GN-1 builder
> >>>IHA #6
> Sure you can,as long as the wood meets or
> exceeds the specs on grain
> slope,grain runout,anualar rings per inch etc,etc.
> Doug Hunt
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Door and Sanding |
| From: | Chris A Tracy <catdesigns(at)juno.com> |
Yippi, the UPS truck came monday with a big old box of spruce for my wing
ribs(Ordered from Wicks, Didn't have to pay sales tax like I would have
from AS&S. Yes Im that cheep). The wood is only sanded on 2 sides (S2S)
and there are a few knots in them. In fact one of them broke right at
the knot with hardly any pressure. Word to the wise CHECK ALL WOOD even
AC certified. Just one more suggestion for people new to this list, down
load the Piet list archive file and read through it. I know it's huge
and you had better have a lot of hard drive space but the information is
invaluable I have read most of it( started in january) . just blast
through the junk, there is alot of good stuff in there. It's like
building an airplane just read through some of it every day and you will
learn a lot. I cheat I read it during lunch while at work. This has the
added benefit of making it look like Im working during my lunch time.
Now for my questions:
1: Do I need to sand the rough side this wood or can I use it the way it
is? I hate to sand.
2: Have any of you installed a door for the front cockpit. I believe Gary
Price has it on the one he built and sold plans for the door.
Thanks
Chris
(Sacramento, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rep fabriuc expert needed |
AS&S has pre-sewn fabric kits available fairly reasable in cost..
Dick Navratil
----- Original Message -----
From: "drmeece" <drmeece(at)email.msn.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: rep fabriuc expert needed
>
> Ken
> Thanks alot that does indeed help. I'm new at this and I know nothing
> about covering a airplane. I have ordered a book and a viedo from EAA but
> that hasn't got here yet. I had no ideal that the cloth was that cheap.In
> fact I heard somewhere that it cost $2000.00 To cover a plane the size of
a
> piet. I mistakenly thought a large percent of that cost was cloth. I know
> better now.
>
> Daryl
> Just getting started
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door and Sanding |
> 1: Do I need to sand the rough side this wood or can
> I use it the way it
> is? I hate to sand.
>
> Thanks
> Chris
> (Sacramento, CA)
If you have access to a delta 12 inch table top planer
( about 475.00) they give a finished surface of
precise dimension with no sanding needed. leaving a
better surface for sealing.
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Eldredge <steve(at)byu.edu> |
| Subject: | Door and Sanding |
Find a planer. the sides must be glue ready for the gussets. It will only
take an hour or so to run your wood through.
SteveE.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris A
Tracy
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Door and Sanding
Yippi, the UPS truck came monday with a big old box of spruce for my wing
ribs(Ordered from Wicks, Didn't have to pay sales tax like I would have
from AS&S. Yes Im that cheep). The wood is only sanded on 2 sides (S2S)
and there are a few knots in them. In fact one of them broke right at
the knot with hardly any pressure. Word to the wise CHECK ALL WOOD even
AC certified. Just one more suggestion for people new to this list, down
load the Piet list archive file and read through it. I know it's huge
and you had better have a lot of hard drive space but the information is
invaluable I have read most of it( started in january) . just blast
through the junk, there is alot of good stuff in there. It's like
building an airplane just read through some of it every day and you will
learn a lot. I cheat I read it during lunch while at work. This has the
added benefit of making it look like Im working during my lunch time.
Now for my questions:
1: Do I need to sand the rough side this wood or can I use it the way it
is? I hate to sand.
2: Have any of you installed a door for the front cockpit. I believe Gary
Price has it on the one he built and sold plans for the door.
Thanks
Chris
(Sacramento, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wayne Meier <wmeier19(at)idt.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 03/01/00 |
Good news Chris,
The Delta planer is down to about $260 from a number of sources, Seven Corners
Hardware (free shipping), and Tool Crib of the North also....... It is important
to
have smooth surfaces to prevent "stress risers" or places where cracks can start.
\
Wayne
> From: del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Door and Sanding
>
>
> > 1: Do I need to sand the rough side this wood or can
> > I use it the way it
> > is? I hate to sand.
> >
>
> > Thanks
> > Chris
> > (Sacramento, CA)
>
> If you have access to a delta 12 inch table top planer
> ( about 475.00) they give a finished surface of
> precise dimension with no sanding needed. leaving a
> better surface for sealing.
> >
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Eldredge <steve(at)byu.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 03/01/00 |
I remember sanding all for corners of my top and bottom cap strips on my
piet just to take the sharp corner off, to prevent a split starting during
handling. Guess I'll do that on my TW ribs too, now that I remember it.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne
Meier
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 03/01/00
Good news Chris,
The Delta planer is down to about $260 from a number of sources, Seven
Corners
Hardware (free shipping), and Tool Crib of the North also....... It is
important to
have smooth surfaces to prevent "stress risers" or places where cracks can
start. \
Wayne
> From: del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Door and Sanding
>
>
> > 1: Do I need to sand the rough side this wood or can
> > I use it the way it
> > is? I hate to sand.
> >
>
> > Thanks
> > Chris
> > (Sacramento, CA)
>
> If you have access to a delta 12 inch table top planer
> ( about 475.00) they give a finished surface of
> precise dimension with no sanding needed. leaving a
> better surface for sealing.
> >
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Davis, Marc" <marc.davis(at)intel.com> |
| Subject: | Door and Sanding |
Chris
I see you've had several replies here (to use a planer) that are probably
correct. I am not building a piet yet so I have no direct experience.
However in general wood working a jointer would be used before the planer.
This guarantees that the wood is square and not a parallelogram in cross
section. Perhaps others can comment on this.
Marc Davis
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris A Tracy [SMTP:catdesigns(at)juno.com]
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Door and Sanding
Yippi, the UPS truck came monday with a big old box of spruce for my wing
ribs(Ordered from Wicks, Didn't have to pay sales tax like I would have
from AS&S. Yes Im that cheep). The wood is only sanded on 2 sides (S2S)
and there are a few knots in them. In fact one of them broke right at
the knot with hardly any pressure. Word to the wise CHECK ALL WOOD even
AC certified. Just one more suggestion for people new to this list, down
load the Piet list archive file and read through it. I know it's huge
and you had better have a lot of hard drive space but the information is
invaluable I have read most of it( started in january) . just blast
through the junk, there is alot of good stuff in there. It's like
building an airplane just read through some of it every day and you will
learn a lot. I cheat I read it during lunch while at work. This has the
added benefit of making it look like Im working during my lunch time.
Now for my questions:
1: Do I need to sand the rough side this wood or can I use it the way it
is? I hate to sand.
2: Have any of you installed a door for the front cockpit. I believe Gary
Price has it on the one he built and sold plans for the door.
Thanks
Chris
(Sacramento, CA)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Beanlands <kbeanlan(at)spots.ab.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: rep fabriuc expert needed |
After covering using the "blanket" method, I can't imagine ANY advantage
to using pre-sewen envelopes. It's so easy and looks just as good with
blankets.
Ken
On Wed, 1 Mar 2000, Richard Navratil wrote:
>
> AS&S has pre-sewn fabric kits available fairly reasable in cost..
> Dick Navratil
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "drmeece" <drmeece(at)email.msn.com>
> To: "Piet"
> Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 10:41 AM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: rep fabriuc expert needed
>
>
> >
> > Ken
> > Thanks alot that does indeed help. I'm new at this and I know nothing
> > about covering a airplane. I have ordered a book and a viedo from EAA but
> > that hasn't got here yet. I had no ideal that the cloth was that cheap.In
> > fact I heard somewhere that it cost $2000.00 To cover a plane the size of
> a
> > piet. I mistakenly thought a large percent of that cost was cloth. I know
> > better now.
> >
> > Daryl
> > Just getting started
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
Ken Beanlands B.Eng (Aerospace)
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Christavia MK 1 C-GREN
<http://www.spots.ab.ca/~kbeanlan>
________________________________________________________________________________
pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com, fly5k(at)listbot.com, airsoob(at)lists.kz,
Piet_Builder(at)listbot.com
| Subject: | Dallas,Fort worth tent camping. |
We are planning on a trip too the Dallas ft worth area this weekend and
we want too tent camp while there. Anyone want too check for us on
camping sites nearby ??
Steve
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
fly5k(at)listbot.com
I have started too mount my landing gear (J3) and am now stumped. The
original main gear mounts for the piet are closer too the firewall than
the cub gear will be. Now my problem is can the front lift strut be moved
back that far too fasten too the front (J3) gear pad?
Steve
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door and Sanding |
A good sharp block plane would be a joy to use on all that clear spruce.
Howdy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John McNarry" <jmcnarry(at)techplus.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door and Sanding |
Hi
I just spent the day planning and jointing ash for a non Piet project.
Usually rough sawn boards are planned two sides and then the best edge
jointed. Sometimes a freehand rip has to be done to get a good enough edge
to joint. The fourth edge is then ripped and the jointer finishes the job.
Marc is right you need both a jointer and a planner to get square stock. But
I usualy plane first then joint.
Sure do like the smells of woodworking, beats matalworking hands down!
John
-----Original Message-----
From: Davis, Marc <marc.davis(at)intel.com>
Date: Thursday, March 02, 2000 10:15 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Door and Sanding
>
>
>Chris
>
>I see you've had several replies here (to use a planer) that are probably
>correct. I am not building a piet yet so I have no direct experience.
>However in general wood working a jointer would be used before the planer.
>This guarantees that the wood is square and not a parallelogram in cross
>section. Perhaps others can comment on this.
>
>Marc Davis
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Chris A Tracy [SMTP:catdesigns(at)juno.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 5:47 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Door and Sanding
>
>
>Yippi, the UPS truck came monday with a big old box of spruce for my wing
>ribs(Ordered from Wicks, Didn't have to pay sales tax like I would have
>from AS&S. Yes Im that cheep). The wood is only sanded on 2 sides (S2S)
>and there are a few knots in them. In fact one of them broke right at
>the knot with hardly any pressure. Word to the wise CHECK ALL WOOD even
>AC certified. Just one more suggestion for people new to this list, down
>load the Piet list archive file and read through it. I know it's huge
>and you had better have a lot of hard drive space but the information is
>invaluable I have read most of it( started in january) . just blast
>through the junk, there is alot of good stuff in there. It's like
>building an airplane just read through some of it every day and you will
>learn a lot. I cheat I read it during lunch while at work. This has the
>added benefit of making it look like Im working during my lunch time.
>
>
>Now for my questions:
>
>1: Do I need to sand the rough side this wood or can I use it the way it
>is? I hate to sand.
>
>2: Have any of you installed a door for the front cockpit. I believe Gary
>Price has it on the one he built and sold plans for the door.
>
>Thanks
>Chris
>(Sacramento, CA)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
A question discussed many times.
Now I've finished all major assy's, now it's time to go back and finalize
parts for assembly.
can't decide on the center section.
Should I have a flop,,,a circular cutout,,,or nothing???
Can't believe I'm building a Piet and never seen one in the flesh.
My question is, If you're sitting in the average Aircamper, rear seat, and
look up, do you see clear of the trailing edge of the wing? Can you see
other planes?
Can all of you guys flying give me a hint?
walt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Shoun <wbnb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Door and Sanding |
Chris,
If you have a square smooth surface, all you want to do is to make
certain that you get good glue penetration. A sanded surface is force filled
with its own dust. A simple way to correct this is to get a cabinet makers
scraper, which is a good quality piece of sheet metal that has one edge very
slightly bevelled over and sharpened. Heck, if you are careful, you can use
a piece of broken glass. Just scrape the surface smooth, and proceed with
glue and assembly.
The jointer and planer are great items to have, but do yourself a favour
and call Don Pietenpol and ask him if his Dad, Bernard had these when he
first built.
Cheers,
Warren
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flop or not? |
You can see upwards fine. But if you stand up you have to bend your body
into a backwards "S" to get out. Otherwise, you bend at the waist and stay
below the wing. Personally, I don't like circular cutouts, they don't look
right on a Piet (no round shape does, everything else is square). I kind
of like the flop, it is unusual and makes it look more "antique." As an
added bonus, although I've never done it, I have seen friends push up on
the flop and use it as a speed brake (as if a Piet does not have enough
drag).
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Planeing and Jointing |
Chris,
Go ahead and get the table saw or even a radial arm saw and get a
Hollow Ground Planer Blade for it. This will allow a VERY smooth cut.
Of course, alignment of the blade to vertical and to relieve drag on
the blade, imput to output side, is critical too. This will allow you
to keep from spending that $600 or so for more tools and the results
will please you.
For our Piet we have a 10" Radial Arm saw, a drill press, an 8" bench
grinder, and a hand held router. The last was used to cut the splice
to join the two spar halfs together (one piece wing) on the front and
rear spars as well as to route out the 1" spars. And yes, block planes.
Rodger
Piet in progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Eldredge <steve(at)byu.edu> |
Speed brake? Hmm I'll have to try that. Ive always considered mine an
auxiliar elevator. My wing is far enought back that I have to lean back to
look straight up. If you are building the long fuse you probably can look
straight up.
Steve E.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gene
Rambo
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: flop or not?
You can see upwards fine. But if you stand up you have to bend your
body
into a backwards "S" to get out. Otherwise, you bend at the waist and stay
below the wing. Personally, I don't like circular cutouts, they don't look
right on a Piet (no round shape does, everything else is square). I kind
of like the flop, it is unusual and makes it look more "antique." As an
added bonus, although I've never done it, I have seen friends push up on
the flop and use it as a speed brake (as if a Piet does not have enough
drag).
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Door and Sanding |
--- "Davis, Marc" wrote:
>
>
>
> Chris
>
> I see you've had several replies here (to use a
> planer) that are probably
> correct. I am not building a piet yet so I have no
> direct experience.
> However in general wood working a jointer would be
> used before the planer.
> This guarantees that the wood is square and not a
> parallelogram in cross
> section. Perhaps others can comment on this.
>
> Marc Davis
>
> I have a good tablesaw with a 50 dollar carbide
blade set square. I sold my jointer years ago and have
no need for it. after I cut my pieces I then run them
thru the planer to get pieces that are within .005 and
absolutely uniform to each other. the table top planer
is far superior to a large planer, as far as finish is
concerned. no sanding required.
del
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door and Sanding |
I here others talk about the wood getting out of square with a block plane.
This could be the case if you were removing a lot of material. One, maybe
two passes is all you will make. 1. Be sure the blade is sharp. 2. Be sure
the blade is straight (set to the same thickness on each side). 3. Take as
little material off as you can and still get a nice curl. 4. Always try to
cut with the grain falling away (not always possible on long piece of wood,
the grain can change back and forth). 5. Try to make the cut in one long
pass. 6. Practice on a scrap piece first, you'll like it. I'd bet money that
Don used a block plane and not a machine.
Howdy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Door and Sanding |
| From: | Daryl R Meece <dameece1(at)juno.com> |
Chris
I know this doesn't help you any but if there is anyone in the
Cincinnati area that's building I have a pretty well set up woodworking
shop. They are welcome to come and saw,plane,joint,route,sand all you
want.
Daryl Meece
Just getting started
________________________________________________________________________________
pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com, fly5k(at)listbot.com
| Subject: | Fuel tank for Piet. |
My 1933 flying & glider doesnt have any gas tank plans. Can someone
pleaseee send me plans/directions on building the gas tank.
Thanks
Steve
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave and Connie <dmatt(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Planeing and Jointing |
Chris,
I would suggest a Stanley #3 or #4 and not a block plane.
The 3 and 4 are smoothers. If you need a jointer go on
up to a #7 or #8. A decent 3 or 4 will go for less than
$40 at a flea market. DO NOT BUY A NEW ONE.
If you go this way drop a note and I will point you at some
sharpening / tuning info.
Dave
Longtime member of the Old Tools list (Galoot)
<childsway@indian-creek.net>
>
>Chris,
>
- snip
>rear spars as well as to route out the 1" spars. And yes, block planes.
>
>Rodger
>Piet in progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doug" <ve6zh(at)oanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Door and Sanding |
unsubcribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Malley <jgmalley(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: flop or not? |
Mine's got the flop. Since the cabanes are straingt, I can see a little
over the wing by tilting my head back. Though I've never used it as as
speed brake, raising the flop during flight causes a big loss of lift.
It makes entering and exiting the plane quite easy but I wish I had
extended it about a foot to the left, difficult to do with the 3 piece
wing.
Jim Malley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Brusilow" <mb-albany(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: flop or not? |
>
>
>Mine's got the flop>I wish I had
>extended it about a foot to the left, difficult to do with the 3 piece
>wing.
>
>Jim Malley
I extended the flop to the first bay on the left.I have a 3 foot center
section. As I said in a previous post, I can stand alongside the cockpit.
Mike B Piet N687MB ( Mr Sam )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave and Connie <dmatt(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Piet project on avweb |
I saw this on Avweb.com this morning. Is this anyone on
the list?
Dave
Retsof, NY
PIETENPOL AIR-CAMPER PROJECT
Fm: Bruno Ferretti - oca44(at)warwick.net
Dt: 4 Mar 2000
Fuselage,tailfeathers and wing ribs complete through varnish. Hinges, metal
fittings laser cut and drilled.Dash boards,seats,etc.Includes additional
sitka spruse and rib jig.$2500 914 986 4444 NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Juan Carlos Berrio <berrio(at)bio.uva.nl> |
Unsuscribe list
Drs.Juan Carlos Berrio
Faculty of Biology
Hugo de Vries Laboratorium
Universiteit van Amsterdam
Kruislaan 318
1098 SM, Amsterdam
The Netherlands
___________________________
E-mail: berrio(at)bio.uva. nl
Tel:(+31) 205 257 950
FAX:(+31) 205 257 662
___________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DonanClara(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Unsuscribe list |
ou can unsubscribe at http:www.matronics/subscribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | model b carb or alternative |
Hello,
Does anyone know of a good source for a model b carb ?
Are there any more easily available alternatives?
Thank You
Mike Johnston
Plainview Minnesota
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: model b carb or alternative |
In a message dated 3/5/00 10:49:13 PM Central Standard Time, Mpj01(at)aol.com
writes:
<< Hello,
Does anyone know of a good source for a model b carb ?
Are there any more easily available alternatives?
Thank You
Mike Johnston
Plainview Minnesota >>
Mike, Model A car clubs would be your best source. It'll take some phone
calls, but I'm sure you'll find one. The original carbs were made of heavy
cast iron, so I'm useing an aftermarket Model B carb, which is made out of
pot metal...much lighter.
Chuck Gantzer
Wichita KS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal(at)startribune.com> |
| Subject: | Re: model b carb or alternative |
Hi Mike,
One place to try would be Little Dearborn Antique Auto Parts,
2424 University Ave. SE., Minneapolis, MN 55414 (612) 331-2066.
They specialize in antique Ford parts. If they don't have them they will probably
know who does.
Greg Cardinal
P.S. Missed you at the Sport Aviation Conference at the Convention Center. Dale
and I had our Piet on display. Lots of fun!!!
See Ya
>>> 03/05 10:47 PM >>>
Hello,
Does anyone know of a good source for a model b carb ?
Are there any more easily available alternatives?
Thank You
Mike Johnston
Plainview Minnesota
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Shoun <wbnb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: model b carb or alternative |
Hi Mike,
Try
http://www.brattons.com/
Cheers,
Warren
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: model b carb or alternative |
The model B carburetors are a bit harder to find than an A, although I'm
sure you have already found this out. I didn't see where you live, but in
the Northeast, the antique car shows at Hershey and Carlisle Pennsylvania
are a great place to locate these. As an alternative, there is a
Tillotosen (sp?) cast aluminum carburetor that is an after-market for the
A-B that works great. These are less expensive. Also, you can buy a
Hemmings Motor News magazine, the Trade-A-Plane of antique cars. Hemmings
always has lots of listings for A parts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: model b carb or alternative |
Thanks to everyone for your help with carbs. I found a place in New York
that sells rebuilts for around $150.
I'll do a bit of shopping I think.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
I'm sitting here still in sticker shock. I just went to a Harley dealer all
set to order a set of shiney new spoked wheels. With tires that was $450
each. It's time to re-group and start searching the junk yards. I called
Buchanens in CA. for their list. Does anybody know a reasonable source for
wheels?
Dick Navratil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mary & Paul Winkworth <winkster(at)eagle.ca> |
speaking of carbs.Can anyone give me some good advice on the proper carb
to use on my corvair engine.I am currently building a GN-1 and live in
Ont. Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Shoun <wbnb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: spoked wheels |
Richard,
Having done this backwards once, allow me to make these suggestions:
Pick the size, make and type of tire and tube that you want to use first.
Then
have your local cycle shop point you in the direction of a cycle salvage shop/yard
(mine wasn't listed in the phone book!). I got 2 Honda 90 front wheel, brake &
axle
assemblies for $40.00 each. After cleaning, polishing, new brakes and bearings,
had
Buchanans true and lace with new 9 gauge stainless steel spokes. Labor and spokes
were $100.00 per wheel. Think that I could have done it myself with some patience.
Still, ended up at about $200.00 each when done including tires & tubes. Think
I
would do it over with a Kawasaki front wheel with wider center section and better
brakes. Keep in mind too, that you can switch rims and centers to match what you
want, as long as each has the same number of spokes.
Warren
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "oil can" <oilcanbob(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: spoked wheels |
What size kawasaki wheel hub would you use ?
Bob
>From: Warren Shoun <wbnb(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: spoked wheels
>Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 17:32:13 -0800
>
>
>Richard,
> Having done this backwards once, allow me to make these suggestions:
> Pick the size, make and type of tire and tube that you want to use
>first. Then
>have your local cycle shop point you in the direction of a cycle salvage
>shop/yard
>(mine wasn't listed in the phone book!). I got 2 Honda 90 front wheel,
>brake & axle
>assemblies for $40.00 each. After cleaning, polishing, new brakes and
>bearings, had
>Buchanans true and lace with new 9 gauge stainless steel spokes. Labor and
>spokes
>were $100.00 per wheel. Think that I could have done it myself with some
>patience.
>Still, ended up at about $200.00 each when done including tires & tubes.
>Think I
>would do it over with a Kawasaki front wheel with wider center section and
>better
>brakes. Keep in mind too, that you can switch rims and centers to match
>what you
>want, as long as each has the same number of spokes.
>Warren
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Loar" <skycarl(at)megsinet.net> |
William Wynne suggests a stromberg off an continental c-85. He also mentions
a Kehin off a harley if you are on a
budget. The main thing is make sure that you will get 150-200 cfm flow. I
plan to use a S&S super B. It has a
small Y manifold and is a very good carb. It also has a richener instead of
a choke and no accelerator pump.
These are features you want in a aircraft carb. A good source would be
harley swap meets.
Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: Mary & Paul Winkworth <winkster(at)eagle.ca>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re:carbs
>
> speaking of carbs.Can anyone give me some good advice on the proper carb
> to use on my corvair engine.I am currently building a GN-1 and live in
> Ont. Canada
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal(at)startribune.com> |
| Subject: | Re: spoked wheels |
Richard,
I went to Sport Wheels in Shakopee, MN. They're a motorcycle salvage yard. I dug
around for three hours until I found a matching set of 40 hole rims. They were
from a big Kawasaki or Goldwing.
$ 20.00 ea. Hubs had already been made from Howard Hendersons plans so 40 spoke
rims were required. I found quickly that 36 spoke rims are a LOT more common.
I have heard that Sport Wheels has gone high tech inventoried all of their parts
on computer. No more digging around in the scrapyard searching for your own
parts.
Custom spokes from Buchanan's cost approx $ 1.60 ea.
Greg Cardinal in Minneapolis
>>> "Richard Navratil" 03/06 7:00 PM >>>
I'm sitting here still in sticker shock. I just went to a Harley dealer all
set to order a set of shiney new spoked wheels. With tires that was $450
each. It's time to re-group and start searching the junk yards. I called
Buchanens in CA. for their list. Does anybody know a reasonable source for
wheels?
Dick Navratil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Shoun <wbnb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: spoked wheels |
Didn't get that close to specifics, as I'd already committed to the Honda 90
front wheels. Personal opinion is that Disk brakes look a little out of place
on a 1929 replica, so would stay with the internal drum brake type of front
wheel. You can get the wider hub with better brakes and still use a narrower
rim, so you're not stuck with huge tires. Make certain that you get the
"complete front wheel assembly" including axle and brake cable arm. And keep
records of what you have, both for your self and for resale. Parts is parts.
Warren
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Conrad, Bart D" <Bart.Conrad(at)na.boeing.com> |
Regarding the comment about 36 spoked wire wheels, I am about ready to make
the hubs.
Question 1: Would I be better off making the hubs with 36 spokes and would
that effect the strength of the wheel?
Question 2: What diameter rim is recommended, or commonly found, or works
and looks the best?
Thanks,
Bart
Bart Conrad
Boeing Field Service Rep - Hobby Field
Douglas Products Division & 737 Hvy Maint
Phone: 713-640-5882
Fax: 713-640-5891
E-mail: bart.conrad(at)na.boeing.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Shoun <wbnb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SPOKE WHEELS |
Consider getting acquainted with motorcycle tires and how they are speed and
weight rated, and how they are measured as to rim width and height from rim to
tread.
You will also find that there are a whole lot more tires at much better prices
in some
sizes than in others. Sorry to sound a bit vague here...the measurement system
is a %
of rim width to tire height and I just had to go look at tires before I understood
what I was seeing. I ended up with the Dunlop F11 series as a personal choice.
There
are a number of motorcycle web sites that have good educational pages.
Warren.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal(at)startribune.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SPOKE WHEELS |
If I were doing it over, I would look for rims first. If you can find 40 hole rims
use them. If 36 hole rims were the only thing available I would have no problem
using them.
19" rims with 3.50 tires have a nice proportion.
Greg Cardinal
Regarding the comment about 36 spoked wire wheels, I am about ready to make
the hubs.
Question 1: Would I be better off making the hubs with 36 spokes and would
that effect the strength of the wheel?
Question 2: What diameter rim is recommended, or commonly found, or works
and looks the best?
Thanks,
Bart
Bart Conrad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Scheibinger" <joe(at)thesurf.com> |
| Subject: | Please remove my name from list |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
O.K. here's another question. Would a pair of 21" wheels look way too large
and out of porportion? I found a new set for $500. It sounds like I'll be
spending quite a bit going through Buchanens anyway. I had been planning on
about a 17" wheel.
Greg, I have spent many hours at Sport Wheels over the years it's a great
place and am planning to take a trip out there this weekend.
Dick Navratil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SPOKE WHEELS |
when you're out there, If you happen to notice any
aluminum 4 wheeler wheels, 6 or 8 inch. don't go to
any trouble, just if you happen to see some. I'll be
heading out there soon also to pick up some calipers
and disks from a four wheeler.
del
--- Richard Navratil wrote:
> Navratil"
>
> O.K. here's another question. Would a pair of 21"
> wheels look way too large
> and out of porportion? I found a new set for $500.
> It sounds like I'll be
> spending quite a bit going through Buchanens anyway.
> I had been planning on
> about a 17" wheel.
> Greg, I have spent many hours at Sport Wheels over
> the years it's a great
> place and am planning to take a trip out there this
> weekend.
> Dick Navratil
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SPOKE WHEELS |
Gee, I wish I had 21" wheels. In my opinion, they can't be too big for a
Piet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: SPOKE WHEELS |
Richard Navratil wrote:
>
>
> O.K. here's another question. Would a pair of 21" wheels look way too large
> and out of porportion?
Richard,
If you look at some of the older photos of Piets, you can tell they
had even larger wheels than that. All the 21's that I've found have had
too narrow a hub and two shops have told me that these particular rims
could not be sufficiently and safely altered for the new angle of the
spokes. So be sure any you find can be retro'd before you put any money
on them. And if you find some that can, drop me a line with the year and
make. I don't really want to put anything smaller on my plane.
Sincerely, DannyMac
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal(at)startribune.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SPOKE WHEELS |
Dick,
Call Sport Wheels before you go. They may be temporarily closed. I'd heard they
were moving to a new location in the same area.
Nothing wrong with 21" wheels.
Greg Cardinal
O.K. here's another question. Would a pair of 21" wheels look way too large
and out of porportion?
Greg, I have spent many hours at Sport Wheels over the years it's a great
place and am planning to take a trip out there this weekend.
Dick Navratil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Loar" <skycarl(at)megsinet.net> |
has anyone found a source for the cast aluminum hinges used in the
tail section?
Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John McNarry" <jmcnarry(at)techplus.com> |
| Subject: | Re: SPOKE WHEELS |
21" wheels with a smooth tread tire come out very close to the diameter of
the original Aircamper in the Flying and Gliding Manual. Some motorcycle
wheels have a removeable spoke flange on the side opposite the brake drum. I
made a spacer and new spoke flange of an increased diameter so that I could
still use the same spokes but end up with a 6" wide hub. The bearing bore of
the hub can be bored out to take bronze bushings with a 1 1/2" I.D. The axle
I used is a length of 0.090" 4130.
I tried cutting the lugs off of some knobby tires. The tire carcase for
knobbies is very strong. Cutting the knobs off worked not too badly with a
sharp utility knife lubricated with dish soap and water. A little sanding
with a 40 grit disk and I now have smooth strong antique looking tires.
I am not worrying about the wheel strength as they sure take a lot of
abuse from those wheelie pulling high jumping dirt bikers!
John Mc
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Cardinal <gcardinal(at)startribune.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 08, 2000 9:56 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: SPOKE WHEELS
>
>Dick,
>Call Sport Wheels before you go. They may be temporarily closed. I'd heard
they were moving to a new location in the same area.
>Nothing wrong with 21" wheels.
>
>Greg Cardinal
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal(at)startribune.com> |
Mr. Vitalis Kapler
1033 Forest Hills Drive
Rochester, MN 55902
>>> "Carl Loar" 03/08 11:52 AM >>>
has anyone found a source for the cast aluminum hinges used in the
tail section?
Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SLTlibro(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List help with rib pattern |
Just received GN-1 plans and am trying to figure out how the 4 sheets of wing
rib patterns mate together. The patterns say "trim here" with an arrow
pointing to a dotted outlined box, inside of which is a dotted lined "X".
Just where does one trim?-vertically on the centers of the "X"? Vertically
connecting the points of the arrow? Where??? The instuctions seem pretty
vague to me for something as critical (or as simple ) as lining up 4 sheets
of plans. Am I missing something very simple in my attempt to start this
project. Thanks.
Richard Savignano Seekonk,MA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greggotone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List help with rib pattern |
Richard, No problem, just trim out the squares (The X'd out portion) then
follow the instructions for alignment. I would suggest making a couple of
copies of the pattern first and be sure to cut up the copies. Save the
original for your wall of fame! Gregg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
Greg
I spoke with the owner of Sport Wheels today. They are open 9-5 daily. I'm
Going tomorrow, weather permitting. He says he has a large pile of wheels
of all types. He claim's that the computer for tracking his parts inventory
is in his head.
Danny
The Harley wheels are plenty heavy duty. The spools are 6"+. The brake
assemblies bolt on to them. I don't think they need any modification. I
was worried about over kill. You should stop by a Harley dealer to see the
new models. They even have sealed bearings.
Dick Navratil
________________________________________________________________________________
fly5k(at)listbot.com
My wife and I spent some time with a very fine fellow the other day.
George Pate is his name. He was very gracious and spent as much time as
he had (wife is sick) showing his gyro. A neat lil gyro if I ever saw
one. He took me through the entire construction sequence and explained it
too me so clearly that I thought I might just start building one right
there. By the way, George helped us in other ways too. He directed us too
a good camping site which I appreciated too. He has also told us he would
try his best too help us locate a home and if he has time he would go
look at it for us. Lemme tell you one thing George is really good folks
in my book. Yall gotta go n visit him. You will surely enjoy yourself
thats for sure.
Also while there (George arranged for me too tour the Air Command Factory
and I saw some great gyros there too.
Thanks George and thank your wife for us for giving you the time away
from her too attend too us.
Steve
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John McNarry" <jmcnarry(at)techplus.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spoke Wheels |
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Navratil <horzpool(at)goldengate.net>
Date: Wednesday, March 08, 2000 9:36 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Spoke Wheels
You should stop by a Harley dealer to see the
>new models. They even have sealed bearings.
>Dick Navratil
Dick, Don't get too excited about the sealed bearings. What is the axle
diameter? If it is anthing under about 3/4" it won't support the weight of
the Peit . Motorcycles support the axle on both sides of the wheel and
therefore the axle has almost no bending moment. The wheels on a Peit are
supported on one side only and need a larger axle. That is why most aircraft
wheels of the type we would use have 1 1/2" axles. Replace the bike anti
friction ball bearings with greased bronze bushings and you can get the
diameter needed.
John
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
hummel(at)list.findmail.com, replicraft(at)aol.com,
pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com, fly5k(at)listbot.com, airsoob(at)lists.kz,
Piet_Builder(at)listbot.com
I am looking for a pair of 800x4 tubes so if yall know of a reasonable
place to buy them or maybe one of yall have some laying around. Please
let me know ok!
Steve
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spoke Wheels |
John,
I gave in to the budget and bought 2 Yamaha 650 19" wheels at Sport Wheels
yesterday. I will have to make new spools but for $90 with excellent
matching tires. They didn't have any decent 21".
Dick Navratil
----- Original Message -----
From: "John McNarry" <jmcnarry(at)techplus.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Spoke Wheels
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Richard Navratil <horzpool(at)goldengate.net>
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Wednesday, March 08, 2000 9:36 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Spoke Wheels
>
>
>
>
> You should stop by a Harley dealer to see the
> >new models. They even have sealed bearings.
> >Dick Navratil
>
> Dick, Don't get too excited about the sealed bearings. What is the axle
> diameter? If it is anthing under about 3/4" it won't support the weight of
> the Peit . Motorcycles support the axle on both sides of the wheel and
> therefore the axle has almost no bending moment. The wheels on a Peit are
> supported on one side only and need a larger axle. That is why most
aircraft
> wheels of the type we would use have 1 1/2" axles. Replace the bike anti
> friction ball bearings with greased bronze bushings and you can get the
> diameter needed.
> John
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
| Subject: | Re: SPOKE WHEELS |
Del,
I asked about 6-8" wheels at Sport Wheels. He though there might be some
around but not many. Mostly 10-14"? It might be best to call, I was with
one yard man others might know more than him.
Dick Navratil
----- Original Message -----
From: "del magsam" <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: SPOKE WHEELS
>
> when you're out there, If you happen to notice any
> aluminum 4 wheeler wheels, 6 or 8 inch. don't go to
> any trouble, just if you happen to see some. I'll be
> heading out there soon also to pick up some calipers
> and disks from a four wheeler.
> del
>
> --- Richard Navratil wrote:
> > Navratil"
> >
> > O.K. here's another question. Would a pair of 21"
> > wheels look way too large
> > and out of porportion? I found a new set for $500.
> > It sounds like I'll be
> > spending quite a bit going through Buchanens anyway.
> > I had been planning on
> > about a 17" wheel.
> > Greg, I have spent many hours at Sport Wheels over
> > the years it's a great
> > place and am planning to take a trip out there this
> > weekend.
> > Dick Navratil
> >
> >
> >
> > through
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> > Matronics!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Papabear108(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: Ford Model "A" engine For Sale |
Hello Out There In WebNet-Land...
I've wanted to build a Pietenpol Air Camper for the past 30 years. Over
the course of the last few years I've started gathering bits and pieces for
my project ~ including a fully converted Ford model "A" complete with brass
radiator. I intended to use the Ford to power my Piet up untill I had a
telephone conversation with Grant MacLaren a few months ago. Apparently my
size and gross weight makes the old Ford engine a bit impractical if I also
want to carry a passenger with me! So... I now have the converted Ford model
"A" up for sale and am thinking about 90 hp continentals. The Ford was built
up by Paul Kolehainen here in Portland, Oregon and was done up rather nicely
with a Winfield aluminum head (6:1), tach drive, oil system conversion with
oil filter, new magnito, tillotsion carb, nickel babit, ash motor mount, prop
hub, brass radiator, etc... There are also 2 other model "A" engines that
are disassembled but can be built up into running engines or kept as parts.
the first person that comes up with $3500 can get it all. I can be reached at
papabear108(at)aol.com if your interested ~ Arlen Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave and Connie <dmatt(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Varnishing Question |
I am finally getting enough done on the Piet to think about
varnish. What should I go with? I haven't decided on a
finishing system yet and would like to avoid anything that
needs a pressure fed mask. Is plain old spar varnish good
enough and compatable enough? I don't want to end up like
Steve Whittman.
Also, what do you use to keep the ribs from getting stuck
to the jig? I am using T-88 for glue. I am considering
trying clear shoe polish. Copier transparencies work well
for large areas but I am getting sticking to the blocks in
some places.
Dave
Building ribs in Retsof, NY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Loar" <skycarl(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Varnishing Question |
wax paper under the areas seems to work good.
Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave and Connie <dmatt(at)frontiernet.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Varnishing Question
>
> I am finally getting enough done on the Piet to think about
> varnish. What should I go with? I haven't decided on a
> finishing system yet and would like to avoid anything that
> needs a pressure fed mask. Is plain old spar varnish good
> enough and compatable enough? I don't want to end up like
> Steve Whittman.
>
> Also, what do you use to keep the ribs from getting stuck
> to the jig? I am using T-88 for glue. I am considering
> trying clear shoe polish. Copier transparencies work well
> for large areas but I am getting sticking to the blocks in
> some places.
>
> Dave
> Building ribs in Retsof, NY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | fishin <fishin(at)wwa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Varnishing Question |
Dave and Connie wrote:
>
>
> I am finally getting enough done on the Piet to think about
> varnish. What should I go with?
> . Is plain old spar varnish good
> enough and compatable enough?
I used urethane spar varnished on my fuselage, first 2 coats thinned 50/50,
sanded than 2 coats full strength. brushed them all on. haven't finished the
wings yet but plan on after assembly to use the same coats applied with simple
insectacide sprayer. cheap and effective...
> Also, what do you use to keep the ribs from getting stuck
> to the jig?
I've heard of some fellows boring holes in the jig under each junction to allow
excess glue to drop thru.
I build my jig right over the brown paper drawing I made. if any ribs stuck
somewhat is was no problem popping them free with a wood chisel. only a small
amount of the paper drawing came up with the ribs. got all the ribs completed
with very little paper to sand off.
I guess one of the most popular methods is to lay out the rib blocks over a sheet
of saran type wrap.
regards
JoeC
Zion, Illinois
NX529PJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Varnishing Question |
Dave and Connie wrote:
>
> Also, what do you use to keep the ribs from getting stuck
> to the jig? I am using T-88 for glue. I am considering
> trying clear shoe polish. Copier transparencies work well
> for large areas but I am getting sticking to the blocks in
> some places.
>
> Dave
Hello Dave,
I just used freezer wrap from the grocery store. The large rolls
are perfect for drawings and the backside is slick like wax papper.
Reynold's Freezer Wrap if I recall.
DannyMac
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TomTravis(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Varnishing Question |
I've had good luck using Saran wrap to keep the ribs from sticking to the jig.
Tom Travis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "oil can" <oilcanbob(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Varnishing Question |
I used a plasic type drafting velum to cover my entire rib jig. The T-88
didn't stick at all to it at all.
Varnish, after a lot of consideration, I have decided to use best quality
spar varnish, with epoxy on the tops of the ribs.
Steve Whitman..I read a story that said he died for an entirely different
reason.
In the area where he was flying, there are/were a lot of military jets. This
fellow said he felt that Steve whitman was killed by a collision with a
military jet, and that the matter was hushed up, and explained by calling
the crash an in flight breakup...
Around here, spokane wa, a crop duster was hit and knocked out of the air by
a navy a-6. the duster went down, the a-6 stayed in the air...landed safely.
Just some thoughts.
Bob
>From: Dave and Connie <dmatt(at)frontiernet.net>
>Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Varnishing Question
>Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2000 20:34:32 -0600
>
>
>
>I am finally getting enough done on the Piet to think about
>varnish. What should I go with? I haven't decided on a
>finishing system yet and would like to avoid anything that
>needs a pressure fed mask. Is plain old spar varnish good
>enough and compatable enough? I don't want to end up like
>Steve Whittman.
>
>Also, what do you use to keep the ribs from getting stuck
>to the jig? I am using T-88 for glue. I am considering
>trying clear shoe polish. Copier transparencies work well
>for large areas but I am getting sticking to the blocks in
>some places.
>
>Dave
>Building ribs in Retsof, NY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "\"Cy Galley\" <cgalley(at)accessus.net> |
\"Ragwing\"" ,
"Bob and Kathy Schrieber" ,
"O-ring Seals" ,
"Kolb-List Digest Server" ,
"Woodplanes \(E-mail\)" <woodplanes@northwest-aero.com>,
"beech-owners" ,
"Chapter 111 Dick Walling"
| Subject: | Fw: Aircraft for Sale |
need some tail dragger time or just a nice tail dragger?
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: <VicRicLowe(at)aol.com>
Subject: Aircraft for Sale
> Cy-
>
> If you get a chance, can you put this out to your undisclosed rec net?
Thanks
>
> Richard Lowe
>
>
> The following aircraft located in Davenport Iowa is for sale.
>
> 1967 Citabria, 7ECA, lyc 0235, TT 3400, SMOH 1400, Ky97A Com, KT76A
w/mode
> C, Apollo Flybuddy 800 Loran, Intercom, DG, Attitude. Wheel Pants, Tanis
> heater, Auto gas STC, White and Gold starburst paint, Excellent Paint,
> Interior redone since new, Always Hangared. Richard Lowe 319 355-3424
> vicriclowe(at)aol.com $25,000
>
> Reason for Sale...upgrade to more crosscountry capable aircraft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Leopold" <frgtdog(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Varnishing Question |
----- Original Message -----
From: "oil can" <oilcanbob(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Varnishing Question
>
> I used a plasic type drafting velum to cover my entire rib jig. The T-88
> didn't stick at all to it at all.
>
> Varnish, after a lot of consideration, I have decided to use best quality
> spar varnish, with epoxy on the tops of the ribs.
>
> Steve Whitman..I read a story that said he died for an entirely different
> reason.
> In the area where he was flying, there are/were a lot of military jets.
This
> fellow said he felt that Steve whitman was killed by a collision with a
> military jet, and that the matter was hushed up, and explained by calling
> the crash an in flight breakup...
>
> Around here, spokane wa, a crop duster was hit and knocked out of the air
by
> a navy a-6. the duster went down, the a-6 stayed in the air...landed
safely.
>
> Just some thoughts.
>
> Bob
>
> >From: Dave and Connie <dmatt(at)frontiernet.net>
> >Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> >To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> >Subject: Pietenpol-List: Varnishing Question
> >Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2000 20:34:32 -0600
> >
> >
> >
> >I am finally getting enough done on the Piet to think about
> >varnish. What should I go with? I haven't decided on a
> >finishing system yet and would like to avoid anything that
> >needs a pressure fed mask. Is plain old spar varnish good
> >enough and compatable enough? I don't want to end up like
> >Steve Whittman.
> >
> >Also, what do you use to keep the ribs from getting stuck
> >to the jig? I am using T-88 for glue. I am considering
> >trying clear shoe polish. Copier transparencies work well
> >for large areas but I am getting sticking to the blocks in
> >some places.
> >
> >Dave
> >Building ribs in Retsof, NY
> >
> >Dave Use a two part epoxy varnish like poly-fiber (stits). standard
spar varnish will not give a complete moisture seal, only epoxy will. Wood
magazine had a good article on this. epoxy holds up to dope.
Gary frgtdog(at)worldnet.att.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Varnishing Question |
As far as the rib jig,,,I put a layer of poly ( drop cloth from home depot)
over the print before putting on the blocks. Only had to add a few patches
along the way, at high use points. Both wings are now done.
And as far as varnish..... first project was a Fisher, and thay
recommended polyurithane. Used that on the Fisher and now most of the Piet.
( Only mystery is the white " mung" that grows in the jar of solvent that
the brush is in.) Only thing that I learned is not to be stingy when it
comes to putting it on. For the Fisher I applied it like I was finishing a
fine jewelry box. Found out it's best to kind of "slop" it on, using the
side and end of brush. You have to keep telling yourself to put more on
the brush. Seems like too much till it dries, and you get a good layer.
walt
-----------------------------------------------------
Click here for Free Video!!
http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave and Connie <dmatt(at)frontiernet.net>
Date: Saturday, March 11, 2000 8:37 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Varnishing Question
>
>I am finally getting enough done on the Piet to think about
>varnish. What should I go with? I haven't decided on a
>finishing system yet and would like to avoid anything that
>needs a pressure fed mask. Is plain old spar varnish good
>enough and compatable enough? I don't want to end up like
>Steve Whittman.
>
>Also, what do you use to keep the ribs from getting stuck
>to the jig? I am using T-88 for glue. I am considering
>trying clear shoe polish. Copier transparencies work well
>for large areas but I am getting sticking to the blocks in
>some places.
>
>Dave
>Building ribs in Retsof, NY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | spray spar varnish? |
two questions
has anybody sprayed their finish with an hvlp sprayer?
2. in talking to dale at mpls aviation show ( he was
displaying his pietenpol) he said he used spar varnish
on every surface except where the fabric contacted the
wood. said it was incompatible with the fabric he was
using. is this true with every fabric, or just certain
ones. or is it a non concern.
thanks
del
________________________________________________________________________________
hummel(at)list.findmail.com, pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com,
mantyla(at)ionsys.com, fly5k(at)listbot.com, airsoob(at)lists.kz,
Piet_Builder(at)listbot.com
I am looking for a pair of 800x4 tubes for cub wheels (J3) so if yall
know of a reasonable place to buy them or maybe one of yall have some
laying around. Please let me know ok!
Steve
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DonanClara(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | 2000 Broadhead Pietenpol Fly-in |
Hey Listers............I have not seen any mention from the discussion group
regarding this year's Pietenpol Fly-in at Broadhead and, with the demise of
the Piet Newsletter haven't a clue if there will even be one. Sure would
appreciate something on this with dates and any other info. you might have !!
Don Hicks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: spray spar varnish? |
Del,
I've never used this equipment, but I know a guy who did years ago. He
sprayed the aluminum dope on and it looked great until he took it outside
to look at the inside and see if there was appropriate coverage in ther
sunlight. He was shocked to see that the sun just came on through like
there was no silver dope coverage. He finally figured out that the
aluminum in the dope was in flakes and the high pressure cvaused the
flakes to stand on end not allowing them to do there job and lay flat to
block out the rays from the sun. So he had to respray the aluminum dope
with a regular gun. The rest of it worked OK with the high spray gun.
John Langston
Pipe Creek, TX
nle97(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Varnishing Question |
According to Sport Aviation, Steve Whitman's plane fell apart because he
idn't bond the dacron fabric to the frame properly and the fabric on an
aileron came unglued causing flutter and enventual disintergration. Due
to the high performance of that particular airplane, this is a highly
plausible conclusion. Most everybody uses dacron today and there is
nothing wrong with that, but use the proper glue to attach the fabric.
Dacron does not stick well to dope, especially butyrate dope.
The type of varnish to use shouldn't really matter, but some of it will
bubble up when wet dope or some lues are applied to it causing a poor
bond. Randolph makes a dope proof varnish, but this expensive. A good
quality spar varnish or polyuretahne varnish should be alright. There
are some products available that can be used to paint over varnish to
"dope-proof" it if it becomes necessary. In any case, if your wood is
varnished and it bubbles up when the glue or dope is applied, stop and
take some corrective action. Also, the Piet is not anywhere as high
performance as Whitman's airplane and the fabric blowing off isn't going
to be anywhere near as critical, but we still don't want it to happen.
John Langston
Pipe Creek, TX
nle97(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Conkling" <hpvs(at)southwind.net> |
| Subject: | Re: spray spar varnish? |
Filed away somewhere(!) -- I saw a setup that used a pump type oiler, some
small diameter
tubing and a cheap paint brush to make a "finish applier" -- a hole was
drilled thru the brush so the oiler could pump the "varnish" thru the tubing
& into the brush -- NO DIPPING!!!!
Mike C.
PP, KS
----- Original Message -----
From: del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: spray spar varnish?
>
> two questions
> has anybody sprayed their finish with an hvlp sprayer?
>
> 2. in talking to dale at mpls aviation show ( he was
> displaying his pietenpol) he said he used spar varnish
> on every surface except where the fabric contacted the
> wood. said it was incompatible with the fabric he was
> using. is this true with every fabric, or just certain
> ones. or is it a non concern.
> thanks
> del
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Swagler <dswagler(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Varnishing Question |
I understand polyuerathane varnish won't allow the
fabric to stick, but would epoxy varnish work?
> Most everybody uses dacron
> today and there is
> nothing wrong with that, but use the proper glue to
> attach the fabric.
> Dacron does not stick well to dope, especially
> butyrate dope.
=====
"A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an
invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders,
cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure,
program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization
is for insects." -Robert Heinlein
"I love California. I practically grew up in Phoenix." -Dan Quayle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Varnishing Question |
I had no problem with the polyurathane reacting to the glue. I used
Minwax brand, if it made a difference.
My understanding of the crash of Whitman's plane was caused by him applying
the dacron, like he used to apply cotton. The problem in the application,
not the glue type.
As per the Poly Fiber book,,,no glue actually " sticks" to dacron,like it
does to cotton. You have to be sure to "bed" the dacron into the glue.
Then when the glue is added on top of the joint, the "fingers" of glue that
go between the fibers, join with the fingers comming up from the bottom thru
the dacron and join in a grip.
If you just "glue" the dacron to the wood, like it seems Whitman did, the
joint will pull apart.
The good thing about PolyFiber is that the glue and all of the layers and
top layers, are the same. Each one melts into the last. So if you cover the
plane using proper procedures, such as correct overlaps and tape widths,
there is no way that the covering can pull apart.
walt
-----------------------------------------------------
Click here for Free Video!!
http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/
-----Original Message-----
From: David Swagler <dswagler(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Sunday, March 12, 2000 3:44 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Varnishing Question
>
>I understand polyuerathane varnish won't allow the
>fabric to stick, but would epoxy varnish work?
>
>> Most everybody uses dacron
>> today and there is
>> nothing wrong with that, but use the proper glue to
>> attach the fabric.
>> Dacron does not stick well to dope, especially
>> butyrate dope.
>
>
>=====
>"A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an
>invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet,
balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem,
pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die
gallantly. Specialization is for insects." -Robert Heinlein
>
>"I love California. I practically grew up in Phoenix." -Dan Quayle
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | fishin <fishin(at)wwa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2000 Broadhead Pietenpol Fly-in |
I don't think the newsletters demise will have any bearing on the 2000 Brodhead
reunion flyin...just too many of us looking forward to the annual Piet gathering
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jack phillips <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Varnishing Question |
Hi Dave,
I had been using polyurethane spar varnish, but have converted to Polyfiber Epoxy
Varnish. If you are going to use the Polyfiber covering process, their varnish
will hold up to the actions of their other chemicals. It is expensive, but is
the best varnish I have ever seen.
Jack
Dave and Connie wrote:
>
> I am finally getting enough done on the Piet to think about
> varnish. What should I go with? I haven't decided on a
> finishing system yet and would like to avoid anything that
> needs a pressure fed mask. Is plain old spar varnish good
> enough and compatable enough? I don't want to end up like
> Steve Whittman.
>
> Also, what do you use to keep the ribs from getting stuck
> to the jig? I am using T-88 for glue. I am considering
> trying clear shoe polish. Copier transparencies work well
> for large areas but I am getting sticking to the blocks in
> some places.
>
> Dave
> Building ribs in Retsof, NY
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Walter Allen" <overalles(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: Ford Model "A" engine For |
Sale
Arlen:
I have almost the same story, however I choose to go with a 100 hp Ford
Escort conversion done by Custom aircraft Ontario Canada
Best Regards
Walter
>From: Papabear108(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: Ford Model "A" engine
>For Sale
>Date: Sat, 11 Mar 2000 02:40:09 EST
>
>
>Hello Out There In WebNet-Land...
> I've wanted to build a Pietenpol Air Camper for the past 30 years.
>Over
>the course of the last few years I've started gathering bits and pieces for
>my project ~ including a fully converted Ford model "A" complete with brass
>radiator. I intended to use the Ford to power my Piet up untill I had a
>telephone conversation with Grant MacLaren a few months ago. Apparently my
>size and gross weight makes the old Ford engine a bit impractical if I also
>want to carry a passenger with me! So... I now have the converted Ford
>model
>"A" up for sale and am thinking about 90 hp continentals. The Ford was
>built
>up by Paul Kolehainen here in Portland, Oregon and was done up rather
>nicely
>with a Winfield aluminum head (6:1), tach drive, oil system conversion with
>oil filter, new magnito, tillotsion carb, nickel babit, ash motor mount,
>prop
>hub, brass radiator, etc... There are also 2 other model "A" engines that
>are disassembled but can be built up into running engines or kept as parts.
>the first person that comes up with $3500 can get it all. I can be reached
>at
>papabear108(at)aol.com if your interested ~ Arlen Anderson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
(Vircom SMTPRS 4.2.181) with ESMTP id for" ;
Sun,
12 Mar 2000 21:33:04.-0600(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: Ford Model "A" engine For |
Sale
Walter
Would you please tell us a little more about the Ford Escort conversion?
Thanks in advance,
Bruce
Walter Allen wrote:
>
>
> Arlen:
> I have almost the same story, however I choose to go with a 100 hp Ford
> Escort conversion done by Custom aircraft Ontario Canada
>
> Best Regards
> Walter
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DonanClara(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 2000 Broadhead Pietenpol Fly-in |
In a message dated 03/12/2000 4:43:13 PM Central Standard Time,
fishin(at)wwa.com writes:
<< I don't think the newsletters demise will have any bearing on the 2000
Brodhead
reunion flyin.. >>
Sorry...didn't mean to imply the Newsletter controls the fly-in...simply that
it had been my only source of advanced information regarding it. No
newsletter...no information. I too would like to go to Broadhead...just
didn't know if or when it will be held. Still hoping someone can give that
info. Thanks for the reply. Don Hicks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd: Gas out? worth a shot |
john harris , steve huffman ,
cliff kelling , earl ogilebee ,
sameen , molly truex
--0-304089172-952954461=:6074
Note: forwarded message attached.
--0-304089172-952954461=:6074
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 16:55:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Scott McKitrick <scott_mckit(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Fwd: Gas out? worth a shot
darrell clark , Matt Coss ,
Steve Huffman , Greg Hymrod ,
Joel McCoy , Lisa Mckitrick ,
Lisa Kay McKitrick , DAVE ROGERS ,
Sammy
--0-2089018456-952908952=:24511
Note: forwarded message attached.
--0-2089018456-952908952=:24511
From: "Caleb Beachy" <apbeachy(at)hotmail.com>
beachyc21(at)juno.com, scott_mckit(at)yahoo.com, girth78(at)hotmail.com,
levengas(at)gte.net, jones.1511(at)osu.edu, mbeachy(at)hlbc.com,
ap_steve(at)hotmail.com, stikeelips7(at)yahoo.com
Subject: Gas out? worth a shot
Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 19:28:07 EST
>From: Shawn Hostetler <shostetl(at)saed.kent.edu>
>To: Caleb Beachy , Craig Hicks ,
> Eric Dalpiaz , Jack Baumann
>, Kerry Alexander ,
> Mike Frease , Shayne Hawn-work
>, Stephen Parada
>Subject: [Fwd: Fwd: Fw: Fw: FW: Gas out]
>Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 19:22:21 -0500
>
>
From: KirbyHolly(at)cs.com
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 21:11:19 EST
Subject: Fwd: Fw: Fw: FW: Gas out
ronstudebaker(at)juno.com
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 23:05:59 -0500
Subject: Fw: Fw: FW: Gas out
From: Kay F Shilling <kjoy7(at)juno.com>
--------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Jason C Shilling <jshill45(at)juno.com>
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 20:36:54 -0500
Subject: Fw: FW: Gas out
This sounds cool to me, the gas prices have been ticking me off also!
--------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "Kory Smith" <ksmith(at)malone.edu>
"ASHLEY NAUCK (E-mail)" ,
"Chris White (E-mail)" ,
"Clare Ring (E-mail)" ,
"Denise Gorman (E-mail)" ,
"Dustin (from WHFC) (E-mail)" ,
"Dustin Hennessey (E-mail)" ,
"Heidi Warren (E-mail)" ,
"Jason C Shilling (E-mail)" ,
"Jennifer Martin (E-mail)" ,
"Jessica Severa (E-mail)" ,
"Jonathan R. Baker (E-mail)" ,
"Katie Davies (E-mail)" ,
"Katie Norris (E-mail)" ,
"Kelly Luczywo (E-mail)" ,
"Kenny Miller (E-mail)" ,
"Kent M. Marks (E-mail)" ,
"Kimberly Farmer (E-mail)" ,
"Mark Dailey (GEL,
MSX) (E-mail)" ,
"Matt Tylka (E-mail)" ,
"Mike Kostur (E-mail)" ,
"Millers (E-mail)" ,
"Mom (E-mail)" ,
"Murrays (E-mail)" ,
"'Robyn Brown' (E-mail)" ,
"Sarah Pressler (E-mail)" ,
"Steph Thomas (E-mail)" ,
"Tiffany (E-mail)" ,
"Tim Bussey (E-mail)" ,
"Tim Habecker (E-mail)"
Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 09:40:00 -0000
Subject: FW: Gas out
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Kostur [mailto:kostur(at)leopard.stark.k12.oh.us]
Fivecoat; Dave Hykes; Kory Smith; John McDaniel; Molly Greco; Jason
Orin; Jon Richter; Rick Widener; Traci Warner;
Giles(at)leopard.stark.k12.oh.us; mitchell(at)leopard.stark.k12.oh.us
Subject: Gas out
Ok, this is the third time that I have recieved this, from three
different
friends on opposite sides of the country. I figured I would send it on
this
time.
Fight the power!!! right?
Subject: The great gas out 2000, pass it on
This message was received and forwarded - please forward it!
Anytime we can stick it to them it's a good day.
Last year on April 30,1999, a gas out was staged across Canada and the
U.S.
to bring the price of gas down, and it worked. It's time to do
something
about it again.
This time, lets make it for three days instead of just one. The oil
cartel decided to slow production to drive up gasoline prices. Lets
see
how
many Canadian\American people we can get to ban together for a three
day
period in April, NOT TO BUY ANY GASOLINE, during those three days.
LETS
HAVE
A GAS OUT.
Do not buy any gasoline from APRIL 7, 2000, THROUGH APRIL 9, 2000. Buy
what
you need before the dates listed above, or after, but try not to buy
any
during the GAS OUT. If you want to help, just send this to everyone
you
know and ask them to do the same.
We brought the prices down once before, and we can do it again! Come
on
North America lets stand together.
WE CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
Even if you receive this 100 times keep passing it around, this way
you
know
everyone is being informed and no one will forget!!!!!!!!
Mike Kostur
Louisville Schools
My web page!
http://www.angelfire.com/hi3/kostur/index.html
--0-2089018456-952908952=:24511--
--0-304089172-952954461=:6074--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | old piet balance. |
Mike Lund has brought up a good question in my mind about the original
Piet balance setup. I plan on using the EA-81 soob and now I don't know
if my idea of extending the engine mount 4" will work coz Mike tells me
that the CG will be off so much that the plane will go into a slip and
not recover. I cant afford the A engine so that is why I chose the Soob.
I thought the wing could be adjusted to get the CG back where it belongs.
Steve
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Chisum" <toddc12(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Varnishing Question |
>Dave and Connie wrote:
> > Also, what do you use to keep the ribs from getting stuck
> > to the jig?
JoeC replied:
>I guess one of the most popular methods is to lay out the rib blocks over a
>sheet
>of saran type wrap.
I laid a new piece of Saran wrap on top of my jig for each rib. Cut slits
in the Saran wrap in the places it pulls tight from putting the capstrips
into the blocks. It worked fine for me. Found out today about a product
called "Film Guard", sold by Carlisle Products at home centers that epoxy
won't stick to, but I don't know if you put it down before the blocks, or
after like the Saran wrap.
Todd Chisum
Tulsa, Oklahoma
Wag Aero Super Sport project
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Eldredge <steve(at)byu.edu> |
| Subject: | Varnishing Question |
Lots of good info here on varnish, here is my two bits...
I used the 50/50 mix to two coats and one coat of full strength
Polyurethane. Then just where the fabric would touch the structure, I rolled
on two coats of Poly Fiber Epoxy. Save tons of money and still have a
fabric cement proof finish.
Stevee.
20 ribs done on my Tailwind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Eldredge <steve(at)byu.edu> |
| Subject: | Rib Jig non-stick tricks. |
After all the threads on rib jigs, I thought I would add what I am doing
with my Tailwind ribs. After building my piet ribs with the wooden block
jig using wax as a release agent, I came upon a better way.
Lexan sheet.
I built my rib jig on a lexan sheet with the plan underneath. Using lexan
cement glue small blocks of lexan in the right places for spars, then for
capstrip locations. I cut cross-sections of an old wood closet rod and
drilled a offset hole to make cams that hold the uprights in place. I use
T-88 and a pnematic stapler with 1/4" staples. The staples can easily be
removed after the rib is cured if desired. I can glue up the first side and
pull the rib out and gusset the other side in 30 minutes. Beats the pants
off nails and waiting for the rib to cure overnight. It took me 30 days to
do my Piet ribs, and so far I have spent 3 days and finished 20 ribs for the
Tailwind.
SteveE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | fishin <fishin(at)wwa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 2000 Broadhead Pietenpol Fly-in |
fishin wrote:
> I don't think the newsletters demise will have any bearing on the 2000 Brodhead
> reunion flyin...just too many of us looking forward to the annual Piet gathering
> .
> the date is usually the last weekend in july...I know I'll be there. this should
> be my last year driving in, as of 2001, I'll be coming in via "NX529PJ" . the
> Piet WILL be flying by then.
> regards
> JoeC
> Zion, Illinois
>
> DonanClara(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > Hey Listers............I have not seen any mention from the discussion group
> > regarding this year's Pietenpol Fly-in at Broadhead and, with the demise of
> > the Piet Newsletter haven't a clue if there will even be one. Sure would
> > appreciate something on this with dates and any other info. you might have
!!
> > Don Hicks
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Beanlands <kbeanlan(at)spots.ab.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: spray spar varnish? |
I used the AFS covering with Dacron fabric. All the coats were sprayed
using an HVLP gun. The gun I have hooks up directly to shop air and worked
well at applying the paints and primers. The biggest thing I noticed was
the amount of paint savings. To paint the fabric surfaces on the fuselage,
tail and LG only took about 3 liters of paint.I'm really impressed with
the finish.
As for your second question, It's the glue that is generally incompatible
with certain varnishes. I used Minwax Polyeurathane and it worked with the
AFS glue quite well.
Ken Beanlands B.Eng (Aerospace)
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Christavia MK 1 C-GREN
<http://www.spots.ab.ca/~kbeanlan>
On Sun, 12 Mar 2000, del magsam wrote:
>
> two questions
> has anybody sprayed their finish with an hvlp sprayer?
>
> 2. in talking to dale at mpls aviation show ( he was
> displaying his pietenpol) he said he used spar varnish
> on every surface except where the fabric contacted the
> wood. said it was incompatible with the fabric he was
> using. is this true with every fabric, or just certain
> ones. or is it a non concern.
> thanks
> del
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Beanlands <kbeanlan(at)spots.ab.ca> |
Pietenpol Discussion
This was sent to the Christavia list if any one is interested....
Ken Beanlands B.Eng (Aerospace)
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Christavia MK 1 C-GREN
<http://www.spots.ab.ca/~kbeanlan>
---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 19:23:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Gene N <stinbolt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 2.2 legacy again
As to my other thought's re. O2OO VS io320 I'm
going to stay with original plans go with the O200.
I have a fresh O time certied C 65 for sale $3900.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Brusilow" <mb-albany(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: old piet balance. |
>
. I cant afford the A engine so that is why I chose the Soob.
>I thought the wing could be adjusted to get the CG back where it belongs.
>
>Steve
Steve:
Bet dollars to doughnuts that wing adjustment will get your CG in range.
How much does that soob setup weigh?
Mike B Piet N687MB ( Mr Sam )
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: old piet balance. |
Mike:
The soob weighs about 200 lbs.
Steve
writes:
>
>
>
> >
> . I cant afford the A engine so that is why I chose the Soob.
> >I thought the wing could be adjusted to get the CG back where it
> belongs.
> >
> >Steve
>
> Steve:
>
> Bet dollars to doughnuts that wing adjustment will get your CG in
> range.
> How much does that soob setup weigh?
>
> Mike B Piet N687MB ( Mr Sam )
>
>
>
>
>
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Hinchman" <mikehi(at)molalla.net> |
| Subject: | Non-stick wing ribs, another view for the record |
For building my Wagabond ribs, I made the fixture base from 2X4's and
3/4-inch particle board. Then I went to the local hardware store and bought
some sheet clear acetate material.
I got some plotter vellum at work and traced the rib drawing using some
gigantic French curves that an associate -- who formerly was an engineer at
Boeing in pre-computer days-- had. I taped the tracing to the fixture base
and laid the acetate over the top. Then I nailed my wood blocks to the
fixture where they were needed.
I use strips of wax paper where needed when I am gluing up each rib, to keep
things from sticking to the blocks. I don't staple the gussets, but use a
glass plate on top of the glued-up rib with about 100 lbs of water jugs on
top of it.
So far, so good. More than 3/4 done at this point and I've had to replace a
couple of small areas of the acetate in high wear areas. Holding up well,
all in all. Wouldn't do it this way for a production fixture, obviously, but
for a few parts like this, it works fine.
Between this fixture and a counter top laminate edge-trimming router bit for
final cleanup prior to sanding, the ribs are coming out great.
I am using Titebond II for glue. This is an aliphatic resin glue that is
waterproof. Very strong and works great. The company where I work uses this
same glue for assembling organ consoles, because it is strong and holds up
seemingly forever.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Swagler <dswagler(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Varnishing Question |
Is the varnish mixed 50/50 with denatured alcohol?
--- Steve Eldredge wrote:
>
>
> Lots of good info here on varnish, here is my two
> bits...
>
> I used the 50/50 mix to two coats and one coat of
> full strength
> Polyurethane. Then just where the fabric would touch
> the structure, I rolled
> on two coats of Poly Fiber Epoxy. Save tons of
> money and still have a
> fabric cement proof finish.
>
> Stevee.
>
> 20 ribs done on my Tailwind.
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
=====
"A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an
invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders, give orders,
cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem, pitch manure,
program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization
is for insects." -Robert Heinlein
"I love California. I practically grew up in Phoenix." -Dan Quayle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Brusilow" <mb-albany(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: old piet balance. |
>
>Mike:
>The soob weighs about 200 lbs.
>
>Steve
That's light up front, but about 10-15 lbs heavier that a 65.
Are you building the long or short fuselage? If the former, you will have
more of a problem that with the latter. In any case, I believe that the wing
will have to be moved back. I would also think about moving the engine
foward.
Now, this aint gospel, but that's how I did my 0-200.( which is a heavier
engine ).
Mike B Piet N687MB ( Mr Sam )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Eldredge <steve(at)byu.edu> |
| Subject: | Varnishing Question |
I used mineral spirits....
Stevee
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of David
Swagler
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Varnishing Question
Is the varnish mixed 50/50 with denatured alcohol?
--- Steve Eldredge wrote:
>
>
> Lots of good info here on varnish, here is my two
> bits...
>
> I used the 50/50 mix to two coats and one coat of
> full strength
> Polyurethane. Then just where the fabric would touch
> the structure, I rolled
> on two coats of Poly Fiber Epoxy. Save tons of
> money and still have a
> fabric cement proof finish.
>
> Stevee.
>
> 20 ribs done on my Tailwind.
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
=====
"A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an
invasion, butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet,
balance accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new problem,
pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight efficiently, die
gallantly. Specialization is for insects." -Robert Heinlein
"I love California. I practically grew up in Phoenix." -Dan Quayle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mac Zirges" <macz(at)netbridge.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: Ford Model "A" engine For |
Sale
Hello, I'm in Newport, OR, and have a Piet all framed up but no engine yet.
I was very interested in your e-mail about having an engine. Is it still
available?
Mac Zirges
Day 541-265-2345
Eve. 541-867-7823 (till late)
-----Original Message-----
From: Papabear108(at)aol.com <Papabear108(at)aol.com>
Date: Saturday, March 11, 2000 12:43 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: Ford Model "A" engine
For Sale
>
>Hello Out There In WebNet-Land...
> I've wanted to build a Pietenpol Air Camper for the past 30 years. Over
>the course of the last few years I've started gathering bits and pieces for
>my project ~ including a fully converted Ford model "A" complete with brass
>radiator. I intended to use the Ford to power my Piet up untill I had a
>telephone conversation with Grant MacLaren a few months ago. Apparently my
>size and gross weight makes the old Ford engine a bit impractical if I also
>want to carry a passenger with me! So... I now have the converted Ford
model
>"A" up for sale and am thinking about 90 hp continentals. The Ford was
built
>up by Paul Kolehainen here in Portland, Oregon and was done up rather
nicely
>with a Winfield aluminum head (6:1), tach drive, oil system conversion with
>oil filter, new magnito, tillotsion carb, nickel babit, ash motor mount,
prop
>hub, brass radiator, etc... There are also 2 other model "A" engines that
>are disassembled but can be built up into running engines or kept as parts.
>the first person that comes up with $3500 can get it all. I can be reached
at
>papabear108(at)aol.com if your interested ~ Arlen Anderson
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: old piet balance. |
Mike:
I had figured out if I move my engine about four n a half inches it will
transfer around 50 lbs toward the front of th CG. Then I will balance it
all by moving the wingeee.
Steve
writes:
>
>
>
> >
> >Mike:
> >The soob weighs about 200 lbs.
> >
> >Steve
>
>
> That's light up front, but about 10-15 lbs heavier that a 65.
> Are you building the long or short fuselage? If the former, you will
> have
> more of a problem that with the latter. In any case, I believe that
> the wing
> will have to be moved back. I would also think about moving the
> engine
> foward.
> Now, this aint gospel, but that's how I did my 0-200.( which is a
> heavier
> engine ).
>
> Mike B Piet N687MB ( Mr Sam )
>
>
>
>
>
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Dortch" <smallfish(at)enid.com> |
"steve huffman" ,
"cliff kelling" ,
"earl ogilebee" , "sameen" ,
"molly truex"
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Gas out? worth a shot |
Before you buy into the GAS OUT Rage, think about the following:
The rate of inflation has raised the price of almost everything at a rate
higher than the cost of Gasoline. Indeed, how much did you pay in 1970 or
1980 for a car? My family bought a brand new Camero in 1970 for around
$3300. How much do you pay today? at least $22,000 for the stripped model.
Compare 1970 gasoline at 50 cents per gallon (at one point it was 35cents
per gallon.) to the prices today $1.39 to $2.00 per gallon. The car costs
almost 8 times more. The gas at most 4 times more. (Why not stop buying
cars!) Compare airplanes if you want to see inflation!
Believe it or not, the current price of gas is about where it should be.
Last year, when gas was so cheap (half price) no one realized that many oil
industry workers were out of work. This includes many members of my family
and many friends. If this were the steel, auto, or any of a dozen other
industries then the press and the public would throw a fit to protect the
endangered jobs. Politicians would line up to help.
The perception that the oil industry is all rich fat cats ignores the many
workers who find, drill, ship, refine, store and deliver oil. This does not
include the other industries that support the oil industries such as welding
shops, scrap and iron yards, pipe manufacturers, truck drivers. secretaries,
bookkeepers, and many others. When the oil industry went bust in about 10
years ago my wife's aunt had her salary cut in half and she lost her
benefits, she is a bookkeeper. The company that she worked for went broke,
ruining many lives.
While I do not want to go back to the oil embargo days of the 70's. The
current prices are not out of line. Compare what you pay in rent today to
what you paid in 1980 or 1970! The rate of inflation has been much higher
than price increases in gasoline.
By the way, I do not make my living in the oil industry and I don't own oil
stock. I just think this is a movement to strike at the "BIG GUY" and does
not consider the many people who are affected by these actions.
Don't be too hasty to declare a GAS OUT before you consider all of the
ramifications.
Steve Dortch
----- Original Message -----
From: shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com>
; steve huffman ; cliff kelling
; earl ogilebee ; sameen
; molly truex
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fwd: Gas out? worth a shot
>
> --0-304089172-952954461=:6074
>
>
> Note: forwarded message attached.
>
> --0-304089172-952954461=:6074
>
> Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 16:55:52 -0800 (PST)
> From: Scott McKitrick <scott_mckit(at)yahoo.com>
> Subject: Fwd: Gas out? worth a shot
> To: caleb beachy , Shad Bell ,
> darrell clark , Matt Coss
,
> Steve Huffman , Greg Hymrod ,
> Joel McCoy , Lisa Mckitrick ,
> Lisa Kay McKitrick , DAVE ROGERS
,
> Sammy
>
> --0-2089018456-952908952=:24511
>
>
> Note: forwarded message attached.
>
> --0-2089018456-952908952=:24511
>
> From: "Caleb Beachy" <apbeachy(at)hotmail.com>
> To: beachydan(at)hotmail.com, ap_steve(at)yahoo.com, phipsi562(at)yahoo.com,
> beachyc21(at)juno.com, scott_mckit(at)yahoo.com, girth78(at)hotmail.com,
> levengas(at)gte.net, jones.1511(at)osu.edu, mbeachy(at)hlbc.com,
> ap_steve(at)hotmail.com, stikeelips7(at)yahoo.com
> Subject: Gas out? worth a shot
> Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 19:28:07 EST
>
>
> >From: Shawn Hostetler <shostetl(at)saed.kent.edu>
> >To: Caleb Beachy , Craig Hicks
,
> > Eric Dalpiaz , Jack Baumann
> >, Kerry Alexander
,
> > Mike Frease , Shayne Hawn-work
> >, Stephen Parada
> >Subject: [Fwd: Fwd: Fw: Fw: FW: Gas out]
> >Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 19:22:21 -0500
> >
> >
>
>
> From: KirbyHolly(at)cs.com
> Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2000 21:11:19 EST
> Subject: Fwd: Fw: Fw: FW: Gas out
> To: shostetl@arcrs4
>
>
> To: Carrie_Spicer(at)bbs.bellsouth.com, KirbyHolly(at)cs.com,
> ronstudebaker(at)juno.com
> Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 23:05:59 -0500
> Subject: Fw: Fw: FW: Gas out
> From: Kay F Shilling <kjoy7(at)juno.com>
>
>
> --------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Jason C Shilling <jshill45(at)juno.com>
> To: karenandjeff(at)juno.com, kjoy7(at)juno.com
> Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 20:36:54 -0500
> Subject: Fw: FW: Gas out
>
> This sounds cool to me, the gas prices have been ticking me off also!
> --------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: "Kory Smith" <ksmith(at)malone.edu>
> To: "Alicia Thigpen (E-mail)" ,
> "ASHLEY NAUCK (E-mail)" ,
> "Chris White (E-mail)" ,
> "Clare Ring (E-mail)" ,
> "Denise Gorman (E-mail)" ,
> "Dustin (from WHFC) (E-mail)" ,
> "Dustin Hennessey (E-mail)" ,
> "Heidi Warren (E-mail)" ,
> "Jason C Shilling (E-mail)" ,
> "Jennifer Martin (E-mail)" ,
> "Jessica Severa (E-mail)" ,
> "Jonathan R. Baker (E-mail)" ,
> "Katie Davies (E-mail)" ,
> "Katie Norris (E-mail)" ,
> "Kelly Luczywo (E-mail)" ,
> "Kenny Miller (E-mail)" ,
> "Kent M. Marks (E-mail)" ,
> "Kimberly Farmer (E-mail)" ,
> "Mark Dailey (GEL,
> MSX) (E-mail)" ,
> "Matt Tylka (E-mail)" ,
> "Mike Kostur (E-mail)" ,
> "Millers (E-mail)" ,
> "Mom (E-mail)" ,
> "Murrays (E-mail)" ,
> "'Robyn Brown' (E-mail)" ,
> "Sarah Pressler (E-mail)" ,
> "Steph Thomas (E-mail)" ,
> "Tiffany (E-mail)" ,
> "Tim Bussey (E-mail)" ,
> "Tim Habecker (E-mail)"
> Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2000 09:40:00 -0000
> Subject: FW: Gas out
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Kostur [mailto:kostur(at)leopard.stark.k12.oh.us]
> Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 12:48 PM
> To: Jon Baker; Stacey Bell; Dad at Work; Troy Davis; Peg Dunn; John
> Fivecoat; Dave Hykes; Kory Smith; John McDaniel; Molly Greco; Jason
> Orin; Jon Richter; Rick Widener; Traci Warner;
> Giles(at)leopard.stark.k12.oh.us; mitchell(at)leopard.stark.k12.oh.us
> Subject: Gas out
>
>
> Ok, this is the third time that I have recieved this, from three
> different
> friends on opposite sides of the country. I figured I would send it on
> this
> time.
>
> Fight the power!!! right?
>
>
> Subject: The great gas out 2000, pass it on
>
> This message was received and forwarded - please forward it!
>
> Anytime we can stick it to them it's a good day.
>
> Last year on April 30,1999, a gas out was staged across Canada and the
> U.S.
> to bring the price of gas down, and it worked. It's time to do
> something
> about it again.
>
> This time, lets make it for three days instead of just one. The oil
> cartel decided to slow production to drive up gasoline prices. Lets
> see
> how
> many Canadian\American people we can get to ban together for a three
> day
> period in April, NOT TO BUY ANY GASOLINE, during those three days.
> LETS
> HAVE
> A GAS OUT.
>
> Do not buy any gasoline from APRIL 7, 2000, THROUGH APRIL 9, 2000. Buy
> what
> you need before the dates listed above, or after, but try not to buy
> any
> during the GAS OUT. If you want to help, just send this to everyone
> you
> know and ask them to do the same.
>
> We brought the prices down once before, and we can do it again! Come
> on
> North America lets stand together.
>
> WE CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
>
> Even if you receive this 100 times keep passing it around, this way
> you
> know
> everyone is being informed and no one will forget!!!!!!!!
>
>
> Mike Kostur
> Louisville Schools
> My web page!
> http://www.angelfire.com/hi3/kostur/index.html
>
>
> --0-2089018456-952908952=:24511--
>
> --0-304089172-952954461=:6074--
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill Slentz <wingman(at)ifrog.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rib Jig non-stick tricks. |
Steve E.,
Are you leaving the staples in your wing ribs? How much weight do you estimate
the staples would add to the wing of a Pietenpol if left installed?
What type of staples are you using?
Steve Eldredge wrote:
>
> After all the threads on rib jigs, I thought I would add what I am doing
> with my Tailwind ribs. After building my piet ribs with the wooden block
> jig using wax as a release agent, I came upon a better way.
>
> Lexan sheet.
>
> I built my rib jig on a lexan sheet with the plan underneath. Using lexan
> cement glue small blocks of lexan in the right places for spars, then for
> capstrip locations. I cut cross-sections of an old wood closet rod and
> drilled a offset hole to make cams that hold the uprights in place. I use
> T-88 and a pnematic stapler with 1/4" staples. The staples can easily be
> removed after the rib is cured if desired. I can glue up the first side and
> pull the rib out and gusset the other side in 30 minutes. Beats the pants
> off nails and waiting for the rib to cure overnight. It took me 30 days to
> do my Piet ribs, and so far I have spent 3 days and finished 20 ribs for the
> Tailwind.
>
> SteveE.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Walter Allen" <overalles(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: Ford Model "A" engine For |
Sale
I bought the engine in Maine from an add I saw on AvWeb. The engine has a
2.5 to 1 gear reduction and I have the name and address of the original
company (though I don't know if they are still in business as I can not find
a phone number for them) the name and address is:
Custom Aircraft, RR#33 Old Mill Road, Cambridge, Ontario, Canada N3H 4R8. I
am currently trying to build a metal engine mount versus a wooden one. The
plans I have are quite detailed, though I don't know if they are complete.
Best regards
Walter
>From: "flyer(at)clas.net (Vircom SMTPRS 4.2.181) with ESMTP id
> 12 Mar 2000 21:33:04.-0600(at)matronics.com
>Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: Ford Model "A"
>engine For Sale
>Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2000 21:31:10 -0600
>
>4.2.181) with ESMTP id for
>
>Walter
>Would you please tell us a little more about the Ford Escort conversion?
>Thanks in advance,
>Bruce
>
>
>Walter Allen wrote:
> >
>
> >
> > Arlen:
> > I have almost the same story, however I choose to go with a 100 hp Ford
> > Escort conversion done by Custom aircraft Ontario Canada
> >
> > Best Regards
> > Walter
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Eldredge <steve(at)byu.edu> |
| Subject: | old piet balance. |
Duane Woolsey, my building buddy, who had an EA-81 on a long fuse piet, had
his wing sitting in the vertical position without any movement aft. We
calculated his cg at 18inches from the LE. Perfect if you ask me. I
remember him saying that with redrive and radiator that he was about 250
lbs. Nice combo, if you like to tinker. He had lots more power than my
A-65. I'd guess close to 100hp.
Steve E.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael
Brusilow
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: old piet balance.
>
>Mike:
>The soob weighs about 200 lbs.
>
>Steve
That's light up front, but about 10-15 lbs heavier that a 65.
Are you building the long or short fuselage? If the former, you will have
more of a problem that with the latter. In any case, I believe that the wing
will have to be moved back. I would also think about moving the engine
foward.
Now, this aint gospel, but that's how I did my 0-200.( which is a heavier
engine ).
Mike B Piet N687MB ( Mr Sam )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Eldredge <steve(at)byu.edu> |
| Subject: | Rib Jig non-stick tricks. |
I counted up the nails in my Piet ribs and there were about 6000. I think
AS$S says that a pound of 1/4" aircraft nails is about 9000 nails. I didn't
take them out of the piet ribs... not practical, however removing staples is
much easier since there is something to grab on to, and you pull two "leg"
instead of one "nail" per motion. Still the net savings in weight is only
about 3/4 - 1 lb. Worth it? your mileage may vary, but if I get to a lull
in the building process, I'll probably do it.
the staples are 1/4" fine wire staples for a pneumatic stapler. -never split
the wood.
Steve e.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill
Slentz
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib Jig non-stick tricks.
Steve E.,
Are you leaving the staples in your wing ribs? How much weight do you
estimate
the staples would add to the wing of a Pietenpol if left installed?
What type of staples are you using?
Steve Eldredge wrote:
>
> After all the threads on rib jigs, I thought I would add what I am doing
> with my Tailwind ribs. After building my piet ribs with the wooden block
> jig using wax as a release agent, I came upon a better way.
>
> Lexan sheet.
>
> I built my rib jig on a lexan sheet with the plan underneath. Using lexan
> cement glue small blocks of lexan in the right places for spars, then for
> capstrip locations. I cut cross-sections of an old wood closet rod and
> drilled a offset hole to make cams that hold the uprights in place. I use
> T-88 and a pnematic stapler with 1/4" staples. The staples can easily be
> removed after the rib is cured if desired. I can glue up the first side
and
> pull the rib out and gusset the other side in 30 minutes. Beats the pants
> off nails and waiting for the rib to cure overnight. It took me 30 days
to
> do my Piet ribs, and so far I have spent 3 days and finished 20 ribs for
the
> Tailwind.
>
> SteveE.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Meadows" <gwmeadows(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Gas out? worth a shot |
Steven,
I just read your rebuttal to the "gas out" post, and I just wanted to say
thank you from somone in the oil patch. I read the note, and thought many of
the same things, but I just didn't speak out, since I didn't feel I was in a
position to speak objectively. But I just just changed my mind.
I agree with your assessment of inflation, and how gasoline prices have
been flat vs every thing else, but people do get used to paying a set amount
for something, and when the price changes dramatically, they get upset. That
part is understandable, but most people don't seem to think the whole thing
through.
Most people think they know all about the oil company "fat cats", and how
they're getting rich off this situation. What they don't know, is that
several of the oil companies got caught on this deal too, and had signed
contracts for delivery of oil at a set price before this spike. Many let out
contracts for April delivery at $15/bbl. Now this oil is $30-$34/bbl, where
do they get the oil to fill these contracts? They pay the price and take a
huge loss. The only parties getting rich in this deal are the OPEC
countries. But then, that's fair too. They have what we want, and they get
to produce as much as they want, and thus, charge us what they want.
Europeans pay $4-$5/gallon and think we're spoiled with $1.50 gasoline.
When was the last time that anyone went to a ball game with their family.
What are the ticket prices compared to the 1980 prices? What about a loaf of
bread? In 1980 I paid $1.25 per gallon for gas. Then the price dropped for
many years, but now has gone back up, and now I pay $1.55 per gallon. That's
up 24% from 20 years ago. That's a little over 1%/year since 1980. What has
inflation done in that time. Honestly, how many of us that were employed
then through now, have only seen 1% yearly pay raises since then?
Another thing, and I hate sounding too condescending about this, but any
kind of "gas out" can't work. This stuff is sold in staggering amounts, and
a few mad motorists not buying gas for three days ain't even gonna make a
statistical difference, much less a real difference in the amount of
gasoline sold throughout the world. It won't send any message, it wont'
"hurt the fat cat". On day 4 you'll still have to make a gas run and fill up
your car, because no one is gonna take vacation to make this thing stick,
you won't inconvenience yourselves to try to make a real difference. You'll
go about your business, doing what you do, and that's fine. But, if you're
really bothered about the oil/gasoline prices, (and the environment), do
something that makes a difference. Car pool, van-pool, or take the bus to
work. Ride a bike to get milk, or better yet, walk - you might even improve
your health. You can get a more efficent car(if you can afford it - remember
when a Toyota/Honda was an affordable car? Remember inflation?).
Government pressure, and internal discord is what caused OPEC to increase
production before. We all drove smaller, more efficient cars, and our
consumption went way down - supply and demand came into play, and prices
dropped. Now enter the SUV. Now, many, many people drive huge gas hogs,
guess what, here comes OPEC cashing in. Who can blame them? We've done it to
ourselves, AGAIN!
No one wants to hear what I just said, and most will dismiss it and get
mad. That's because everyone wants it easy. It's easier to get mad and
boycott gas than it is to make a commitment, then stick to it. Everyone
wants to have their cake and eat it too. For Americans, the car isn't the
tool that it should be, but the end in itself, the reason for driving, a
sign of freedom.
I'm not a tree-hugger and I'm certainly not fat cat. I'm just a guy that
happens to work in an industry that everyone hates, that supplies everyone
with what the energy that they want or need, for a price that is still the
lowest in the whole world. The Europeans are right - what a spoiled country
we've become.
Sorry about the length,
Gary Meadows
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William C. Beerman" <wcb(at)pliantsystems.com> |
Any Piets planning on attending Sun-N-Fun? I'll be there with my Stinson.....
-Bill Beerman
Stinson 108-3 owner
Long fuse Aircamper, STILL making metal parts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Eldredge <steve(at)byu.edu> |
| Subject: | Fwd: Gas out? worth a shot |
I've decided to support both camps. I'll take three days off work, bike to
the airport and fly all day.
Steve E :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Meadows" <gwmeadows(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd: Gas out? worth a shot |
Steve,
Now you're talking! I think I'll only buy avgas, and camp out at the
airport! That's gotta be better than working!!
My post, by the way, was aviation related, cause I promote saving gasoline
so that we can fly more! Yeah, that's it!
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mboynton(at)excite.com |
for" ;
| Subject: | forming aluminum ribs |
To all:
Do any of you have experience with forming ribs from sheet aluminum, and
could you share information about the process with me?
Mark Boynton
Gilbert, AZ
Get 100% FREE Internet Access powered by Excite
Visit http://freelane.excite.com/freeisp
________________________________________________________________________________
When I got the "Gas out" post, I hit the Delete button, it wasn't
Piet material.
When I got the "Rebuttal" I did the same, not Piet material.
And now the "Re-Rebuttal", same thing...Delete. Come on guys,
keep the focus to Piets for the Piet List.
Rodger
Piet in progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Eldredge <steve(at)byu.edu> |
| Subject: | forming aluminum ribs |
Mark,
Try websites of other airplanes that use stamped ribs. Also there was some
discussion here about it too. Check the archives. Here is a link that I
ran across today that has some information too. It is the Bearhawk. My
brother is getting plans soon.
http://www.cordovanet.com/~packrat/planes/bearhawk.html
Good Luck
Stevee.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
mboynton(at)excite.com (InterMail vM.4.01.02.31a 201-229-119-114) withESMTP
for ;
Subject: Pietenpol-List: forming aluminum ribs
vM.4.01.02.31a 201-229-119-114) with ESMTP for
;
To all:
Do any of you have experience with forming ribs from sheet aluminum, and
could you share information about the process with me?
Mark Boynton
Gilbert, AZ
Get 100% FREE Internet Access powered by Excite
Visit http://freelane.excite.com/freeisp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Beanlands <kbeanlan(at)spots.ab.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Gas out? worth a shot |
Gary and Stephen,
Great e-mails. Living in Calgary has certainly kept me well informed of
the oil industry and I even work for one of the larger Canadian oil and
gas companies. It's amazing just how much of the economies in Canada and
the US are driven by the petroleum industries. For the most part, a three
day boycot won't mean a thing. Everyone will just buy that much more 3
days later and the month end figures will be exactly the same as I doubt
if everyone will walk to work in those three days ;-).
I also agree that the solution is to buy more effecient vehicles. Then,
the net result is that you pay the same at the pump. In fact, extending
Gary's line of reasoning, we are now paying less per km than we did 10,
20, 30 years ago. The last car I owned (92 Protege) easily got 43 miles
per gallon. Most compacts are in the samerange. Even my new 4x4 is about
50% more efficient than the similar GM my father had in '85. Here in
Alberta, many fleet vehicles (especially trucks and cabs) have been
converted to propane or natural gas in an effort to reduce both emmissions
and fuel costs.
Personally, I stopped using my vehicle for commuting about 3 years ago and
I love it. The bus ride is shorter (I don't have to look for a parking
space), stress level is next to nothing (half the mornings I doze most of
the way in) and I caught up on reading all those Sport Aviation,
Kitplanes, Experimentor, COPA Newsletter and Custom Planes magazines. I
even feel better about myself for helping the enviroment. Funny enough, I
had always made excuses for why I needed to drive in until I had to take
the bus one morning (truck was in the shop). I realized how much easier it
was and immediately dropped the $150 monthly parking space I was paying
for in favour of a $50 bus pass. In the past 3 years, I have not driven to
work once. Oh yeah, I even got a $160 break on insurance. So, we save more
money and I can do more flying and plane building (had to stay on topic,
right? ;-)
Maybe a better boycot would be for everyone to give up thier cars for
commuting for a month and use public transportation. This is one that
would have a real positive impact: less cars on the road, less polution,
adding funds to public transportation organizations, reducing the demand
for gasoline and hopefully introducing eople to the virtues of public
transportation. How much you want to bet that such a boycot would never
fly.
In the long run, I think that increased gas prices are enviromentally
sound. Look what happened in the 70's after the last oil crisis. The
compact became the dominate vehicle on the road reducing emmissions
greatly.
Sorry, for the e-mail, but this is one topic I feel very strongly about.
Thanks,
Ken Beanlands B.Eng (Aerospace)
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Christavia MK 1 C-GREN
<http://www.spots.ab.ca/~kbeanlan>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Beanlands <kbeanlan(at)spots.ab.ca> |
So Rodger, you're building a glider, are you ;-) ? The last time I
checked, one of the biggest costs in flying was gasoline. The Cessna 180 I
fly drinks 12 gph which accounts for about $50 of our $100 hourly costs
(fixed and operational) Adding another $8-$12 per hour will effect the
amount of flying I can do. I've found this thread quite informative and
enjoyed participating in the discussion. I also participate in the
Christavia and Aeronca lists and in general, this has been a hot topic all
around. Most pilots, builders and owners are very interested in gas prices
and what can be done about it. If you don't like this thread, keep hitting
the delete button.
Ken
On Tue, 14 Mar 2000, Rodger & Betty wrote:
>
> When I got the "Gas out" post, I hit the Delete button, it wasn't
> Piet material.
>
> When I got the "Rebuttal" I did the same, not Piet material.
>
> And now the "Re-Rebuttal", same thing...Delete. Come on guys,
> keep the focus to Piets for the Piet List.
>
> Rodger
> Piet in progress
>
>
>
>
>
Ken Beanlands B.Eng (Aerospace)
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Christavia MK 1 C-GREN
<http://www.spots.ab.ca/~kbeanlan>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Chisum" <toddc12(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | forming aluminum ribs |
Don't forget about the Sonerai I & II....
>Mark,
>
>Try websites of other airplanes that use stamped ribs. Also there was some
>discussion here about it too. Check the archives. Here is a link that I
>ran across today that has some information too. It is the Bearhawk. My
>brother is getting plans soon.
>
>http://www.cordovanet.com/~packrat/planes/bearhawk.html
>
>Good Luck
>Stevee.
>To all:
>
>Do any of you have experience with forming ribs from sheet aluminum, and
>could you share information about the process with me?
>
>Mark Boynton
>Gilbert, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOEL CARROLL <drcarroll_2000(at)yahoo.com> |
broadhead will be july27,28,29,30 2000 doc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Brusilow" <mb-albany(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: old piet balance. |
>
>Duane Woolsey, my building buddy, who had an EA-81 on a long fuse piet, had
>his wing sitting in the vertical position without any movement aft. We
>calculated his cg at 18inches from the LE. Perfect if you ask me. I
>remember him saying that with redrive and radiator that he was about 250
>lbs. Nice combo, if you like to tinker. He had lots more power than my
>A-65. I'd guess close to 100hp.
250 lbs up front, vertical cabanes will work. close to Ford weight up front.
Mike B Piet N6867MB ( Mr Sam )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mboynton(at)excite.com |
for" ;
| Subject: | forming aluminum ribs |
Todd and Steve,
Thanks for the tips.
Mark
>
> Don't forget about the Sonerai I & II....
>
>
> >Mark,
> >
> >Try websites of other airplanes that use stamped ribs. Also there was
some
> >discussion here about it too. Check the archives. Here is a link that
I
> >ran across today that has some information too. It is the Bearhawk. My
> >brother is getting plans soon.
> >
> >http://www.cordovanet.com/~packrat/planes/bearhawk.html
> >
> >Good Luck
> >Stevee.
>
> >To all:
> >
> >Do any of you have experience with forming ribs from sheet aluminum, and
> >could you share information about the process with me?
> >
> >Mark Boynton
> >Gilbert, AZ
>
>
>
>
>
Get 100% FREE Internet Access powered by Excite
Visit http://freelane.excite.com/freeisp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com> |
I'll be there, but with my Travel Air, not the Piet . . . yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | fishin <fishin(at)wwa.com> |
> >
> > ] I believe the Teenie Two web site has some pretty good pictures of the
> > ] aluminum rib forming process. try www.IRCweb.com/t2/
> >
> > JoeC
>
> > ]
> > ] Do any of you have experience with forming ribs from sheet aluminum, and
> > ] could you share information about the process with me?
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TXTdragger(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 3/14/2000 3:31:04 PM !!!First Boot!!!,
wcb(at)pliantsystems.com writes:
<< I'll be there with my Stinson..... >>
After "several years of looking, dreaming, etc, I have decided that a Stinson
108-3 is what I will buy soon. How do you like your 3? All my time is in a
Citabria, and am really comfortable with in in crosswinds. I hear scare
stories about the 108-3. Would appreciate your feedback. Direct e-mail is
txtdragger(at)aol.com.
Thanks John Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Gillespie" <dickmarg(at)peganet.com> |
trying to decide whether to build a composite, foam and fiberglass, tank or
an aluminum tank made for me. i don't weld. cost differential is about
$200.00
more for the aluminum tank 16 gal. size for a GN-1. would appreciate
comments. thanks dick gillespie in ft. myers, fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | fishin <fishin(at)wwa.com> |
just had a aluminum fuselage tank made up for me from the posterboard mock-up that
I
supplied. approx 16 gal. . I supplied the fittings (approx $25) and the total
cost
from the welder was $350...I thought about making it myself but didn't want to
seal
rivets and didn't want to chance contaminates from fibreglass...I'm very happy
with
the welded alum tank and the price was in line.
JoeC
Zion, Illinois
NX529PJ
Richard Gillespie wrote:
>
> trying to decide whether to build a composite, foam and fiberglass, tank or
> an aluminum tank made for me. i don't weld. cost differential is about
> $200.00
> more for the aluminum tank 16 gal. size for a GN-1. would appreciate
> comments. thanks dick gillespie in ft. myers, fl.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Loar" <skycarl(at)megsinet.net> |
In Tony Bigelis' Sportplane construction,,,, he shows some really good
techniques on
gas tank fabrication. Both metal and composite types are shown. Exellent
book.
Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Gillespie <dickmarg(at)peganet.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: gas tank
>
> trying to decide whether to build a composite, foam and fiberglass, tank
or
> an aluminum tank made for me. i don't weld. cost differential is about
> $200.00
> more for the aluminum tank 16 gal. size for a GN-1. would appreciate
> comments. thanks dick gillespie in ft. myers, fl.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Forming aluminum ribs |
| From: | John E Fay <jefay(at)juno.com> |
For info about forming aluminum ribs one of the best descriptions
available is in Tony Bingelis' book. It's in The Sportplane Builder;
that's the blue volume.
John in Peoria
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOEL CARROLL <drcarroll_2000(at)yahoo.com> |
broadhead will be july27,28,29,30 2000.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mboynton(at)excite.com |
for" ;
| Subject: | Re: Forming aluminum ribs |
Thanks, John.
I'll check it out.
Mark
>
> For info about forming aluminum ribs one of the best descriptions
> available is in Tony Bingelis' book. It's in The Sportplane Builder;
> that's the blue volume.
>
> John in Peoria
>
>
>
>
>
Get 100% FREE Internet Access powered by Excite
Visit http://freelane.excite.com/freeisp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | oil temp/press guage |
One of my inst. panel dreams is to have the oil press/temp guage from a cub
type , for my Cont. 65. Also the mag switch. Are things still available?
or do you have to look in a boneyard.
walt evans
________________________________________________________________________________
fly5k(at)listbot.com
Can aluminum ribs be attached too wood spars? Or how too build aluminum
spars too!
Steve
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Gillespie" <dickmarg(at)peganet.com> |
| Subject: | 3 piece wing for Pietenpol (the real one) |
A friend of mine has a need for a complete 3 piece wing for a Piet built in
1933. All or part. His name is Lloyd Moore and his phone number is
941/694-4219. Thanks, Dick G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "the Pelletier's" <jbunny(at)goldcity.net> |
| Subject: | Re: [fly5k] Aluminum ribs. |
T-CRAFT , CHAMPS ECT USE ALUMINUM RIBS
AND WOOD SPARS. THE RIBS ARE FASTNED TO
THE SPARS WITH BRASS PLATED LITTLE NAILS.
LOUIS
-----Original Message-----
From: vistin(at)juno.com <vistin(at)juno.com>
pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com ;
fly5k(at)listbot.com
Date: Thursday, March 16, 2000 3:03 PM
Subject: [fly5k] Aluminum ribs.
>5K - http://public.surfree.com/arkiesair/index.htm
http://members.xoom.com/HWilkinson/fly5kbb.htm
>
>Can aluminum ribs be attached too wood spars? Or how too build aluminum
>spars too!
>
>Steve
>
>Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
>
>GN-1--<(next project).
>
>IHA #6
>
>
>______________________________________________________________________
>To unsubscribe, write to fly5k-unsubscribe(at)listbot.com
>______________________________________________________________________
>Start Your Own FREE Email List at http://www.listbot.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | fishin <fishin(at)wwa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temp/press guage |
check out ACS 1999/2000 catalog on page 353, they have a lever type ignition switch
without starter position that should be perfect for the A65
regards
JoeC
Zion, Illinois
NX529PJ
walter evans wrote:
> , for my Cont. 65. Also the mag switch. Are things still available?
> or do you have to look in a boneyard.
> walt evans
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John McNarry" <jmcnarry(at)techplus.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temp/press guage |
Walt; Are you still using an A? The Model T mag/battery switches are still
available and look like they could be made to work. They even have a key
lock.
John Mc
-----Original Message-----
From: fishin <fishin(at)wwa.com>
Date: Thursday, March 16, 2000 5:52 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: oil temp/press guage
>
>check out ACS 1999/2000 catalog on page 353, they have a lever type
ignition switch
>without starter position that should be perfect for the A65
>regards
>JoeC
>Zion, Illinois
>NX529PJ
>
>walter evans wrote:
>
>> , for my Cont. 65. Also the mag switch. Are things still available?
>> or do you have to look in a boneyard.
>> walt evans
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: oil temp/press guage |
Walter, if you can find a good bone orchard, let me know, please.
Every wreck that I've seen, even coming down the Alaska highway
piled 4 deep on a flatbed have been on there way to rebuild
facilities. I talked to one of the haulers and all they need is
the plate and number, and they rebuild as certified. Quite a
business. I have had no luck at all in locating used, but not too
abused, instruments for the same reasons. Any body got a good
source? I would sure like to know. Even the Cub landing gear off
the old wrecks are not available.
----- Original Message -----
From: walter evans <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: oil temp/press guage
>
> One of my inst. panel dreams is to have the oil press/temp
guage from a cub
> type , for my Cont. 65. Also the mag switch. Are things
still available?
> or do you have to look in a boneyard.
> walt evans
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: [fly5k] Aluminum ribs. |
Aluminum ribs to wooden spars is common, as stated here. Many other
antiques also used them, the Fleet, Curtiss Robin, and Davis to name a few.
One thing to be cautions of, though, is the nails used. Citibrias have an
AD on them where all the nails have to be replaced with ribbed nails that
look kind of like paneling nails because they are backing out and allowing
the rib to eat into the top and bottom of the spar. I do not know what
type of rib you are building or how the spar opening is cut out, but be
aware of this problem.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temp/press guage |
oil temp/pressure gauges like you are describing (cub style) are on E-Bay
all the time and go fairly cheaply. Also, go to any fly-in that has a flea
market . . most notably Sun-n-Fun coming up has ten times the flea markets
that Oshkosh does.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temp/press guage |
Have you tried Wentworth Aircraft parts in Minneapolis? They have lots of
everything for the single engine plane.. They buy salvage planes and sell
parts. I have seen Cubs there in the past.
Dick Navratil
----- Original Message -----
From: "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: oil temp/press guage
>
> One of my inst. panel dreams is to have the oil press/temp guage from a
cub
> type , for my Cont. 65. Also the mag switch. Are things still
available?
> or do you have to look in a boneyard.
> walt evans
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
fly5k(at)listbot.com
| Subject: | Aluminum ribs and capstrips. |
Thanks for the info so far. Now what is done too form a capstrip. Is a
wood capstrip used? Or is the edge rolled.
Steve
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woodflier(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | J-3 Struts, Bearhawk |
I'm builiding a Piet with the 3-piece wing, and want to raise the wing an
addtional 2" for better access to the front cockpit. Will the J-3 rear struts
still work for the flying struts or are they too short?
Also, someone mentioned the Bearhawk design as one that uses stamped aluminum
ribs. The designer of the Bearhawk, Bob Barrows, lives closeby, is an EAA
Tech Counselor, and built a beautiful To-The-Plans Piet a number of years
ago.. complete with Ford A engine and tail skid.
Matt Paxton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal(at)startribune.com> |
| Subject: | Re: J-3 Struts, Bearhawk |
J-3 struts will work when raising the wing 2". Check the J-3 struts carefully.
The old ones were removed from Cubs because of corrosion problems.
Greg Cardinal in Minneapolis
>>> 03/17 9:00 AM >>>
I'm builiding a Piet with the 3-piece wing, and want to raise the wing an
addtional 2" for better access to the front cockpit. Will the J-3 rear struts
still work for the flying struts or are they too short?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: J-3 Struts, Bearhawk |
Max,
Checked with a Kitfox builder at an airport about 15 mi. away, and was
supprised to find in their hanger rafters, "lots" of old struts that had
been replaced over the years. Turns out that if you check with an AP, they
tell you that the problem areas are in the lower end where moisture lays.
Even though someone could have very easily walked away with some, and no one
would have known, I spoke to the airport owner and wound up giving him
$10.00 apeice for them. He even said if I find one that doesn't look good,
bring it back and swap it.
I cut off the first 8 in. to inspect, and they were fine. I was as happy
as a clam. Sure beats getting new 4130 streamlined.
walt
-----------------------------------------------------
Click here for Free Video!!
http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/
-----Original Message-----
From: Woodflier(at)aol.com <Woodflier(at)aol.com>
Date: Friday, March 17, 2000 10:09 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: J-3 Struts, Bearhawk
>
>I'm builiding a Piet with the 3-piece wing, and want to raise the wing an
>addtional 2" for better access to the front cockpit. Will the J-3 rear
struts
>still work for the flying struts or are they too short?
>
>Also, someone mentioned the Bearhawk design as one that uses stamped
aluminum
>ribs. The designer of the Bearhawk, Bob Barrows, lives closeby, is an EAA
>Tech Counselor, and built a beautiful To-The-Plans Piet a number of years
>ago.. complete with Ford A engine and tail skid.
>
>Matt Paxton
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | fishin <fishin(at)wwa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: J-3 Struts, Bearhawk |
WOW--- how do I get a hold of this guy and latch onto this great deal ???
JoeC
walter evans wrote:
>
> Max,
> Checked with a Kitfox builder at an airport about 15 mi. away, and was
> supprised to find in their hanger rafters, "lots" of old struts that had
> been replaced over the years. Turns out that if you check with an AP, they
> tell you that the problem areas are in the lower end where moisture lays.
> Even though someone could have very easily walked away with some, and no one
> would have known, I spoke to the airport owner and wound up giving him
> $10.00 apeice for them. He even said if I find one that doesn't look good,
> bring it back and swap it.
> I cut off the first 8 in. to inspect, and they were fine. I was as happy
> as a clam. Sure beats getting new 4130 streamlined.
> walt
>
> -----------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: J-3 Struts, Bearhawk |
Joe,
I think that just about everyone is near a place like this and doesn't
realize it. This place happens to be Sussex Airport in Northern NJ. but
check out any airport that has those old hangers that people have been in
for years. Most people don't do it but,,,,,when you go in to see the planes
in the dark hangers,,,Look Up.
It seems that people never threw these things away, only stuck them where
they wouldn't be in the way.
I'm not sure what these struts are off of , but I had my pick of the lot and
got 4 that matched. ( and there are still plenty more)
walt evans
-----------------------------------------------------
Click here for Free Video!!
http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/
-----Original Message-----
From: fishin <fishin(at)wwa.com>
Date: Friday, March 17, 2000 9:07 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: J-3 Struts, Bearhawk
>
>WOW--- how do I get a hold of this guy and latch onto this great deal ???
>JoeC
>
>walter evans wrote:
>
>>
>> Max,
>> Checked with a Kitfox builder at an airport about 15 mi. away, and was
>> supprised to find in their hanger rafters, "lots" of old struts that had
>> been replaced over the years. Turns out that if you check with an AP,
they
>> tell you that the problem areas are in the lower end where moisture lays.
>> Even though someone could have very easily walked away with some, and no
one
>> would have known, I spoke to the airport owner and wound up giving him
>> $10.00 apeice for them. He even said if I find one that doesn't look
good,
>> bring it back and swap it.
>> I cut off the first 8 in. to inspect, and they were fine. I was as
happy
>> as a clam. Sure beats getting new 4130 streamlined.
>> walt
>>
>> -----------------------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RBush96589(at)aol.com |
Good morning group,
I am about to do some varnishing using Stitts
epoxy spar varnish. It says to reduce it and gives a part # for their reducer
that I didn't get, is there something else I could use?
Thanks in advance,
Robert Bush
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Leopold" <frgtdog(at)worldnet.att.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: <RBush96589(at)aol.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: varnish
>
> Good morning group,
> I am about to do some varnishing using
Stitts
> epoxy spar varnish. It says to reduce it and gives a part # for their
reducer
> that I didn't get, is there something else I could use?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Robert Bush
>
> Robert: I dont believe poly-fiber (stits) recomends mixing any of their
products with another.
Gary
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Can someone help me with the main gear? What I need is how too build a
main gear that uses bungie and kinda looks like the cub gear. I think it
has some tubing that crosses between the V struts.
Steve
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Conkling" <hpvs(at)southwind.net> |
Hi folks!
This weekend has been an interesting mix of weather -- rain/sleet changing
to snow (about 4" in our part of KS) changing to rain/drizzle all day Sat.
To kill some time I dug out one of my Slick 4220 RH mags & opened it up to
look inside (after all, they are still good for parts! ;-)
It appears that the mag. can/could be changed to a LH rotation mag.-- there
are RH& LH timing marks on the drive gears and the dist. gear. I haven't
pulled off all the parts on the impulse drive to check for changing the
rotation there -- there is a LH pin location for the impluse engagement, so
it appears to be possible.
Does someone have a copy of the manual for the Slick 4220? I remember a
thread about this last summer, but I don't recall how it ended.
If all else fails, you can always use the mag on a VW conversion!
Mike C.
Pretty Prairie, KS
----- Original Message -----
From: <vistin(at)juno.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Piet main gear.
>
> Can someone help me with the main gear? What I need is how too build a
> main gear that uses bungie and kinda looks like the cub gear. I think it
> has some tubing that crosses between the V struts.
>
> Steve
>
> Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
>
> GN-1--<(next project).
>
> IHA #6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com, fly5k(at)listbot.com,
Piet_Builder(at)listbot.com
| Subject: | Cub tires and tubes? |
Has anyone found another type/size tire too use on the four inch CUB
wheels besides the baloon tires that came on them? PLEASE help meee!!
Steve
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Loar" <skycarl(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cub tires and tubes? |
Steve,,, Wag-Aero carries just about anything you need for a cub. They are
online and will send you
a catalog.
Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: <vistin(at)juno.com>
; ;
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Cub tires and tubes?
>
> Has anyone found another type/size tire too use on the four inch CUB
> wheels besides the baloon tires that came on them? PLEASE help meee!!
>
> Steve
>
> Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
>
> GN-1--<(next project).
>
> IHA #6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | fishin <fishin(at)wwa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cub tires and tubes? |
got no kicks with wag-aero, in fact being only 45 minutes away from them I
shop there myself, but---be a prudent shopper and compare prices with wicks
and ACS and more often than not you'll find better prices. I've been in their
store and overheard the clerks saying to determine their prices just look in
ACS catalog and add 50%. a bit overstated but not too far off.
JoeC
Carl Loar wrote:
>
> Steve,,, Wag-Aero carries just about anything you need for a cub. They are
> online and will send you
> a catalog.
> Carl
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <vistin(at)juno.com>
> To: ; ;
> ; ;
>
> Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2000 10:15 AM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Cub tires and tubes?
>
> >
> > Has anyone found another type/size tire too use on the four inch CUB
> > wheels besides the baloon tires that came on them? PLEASE help meee!!
> >
> > Steve
> >
> > Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
> >
> > GN-1--<(next project).
> >
> > IHA #6
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Airplaneman123(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rib Jig non-stick tricks. |
Don't wait for that "lull" too long, or you will never get your staples out.
I try to yank all my staples within 24 hours. Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greggotone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Rib Jig non-stick tricks. |
Hello all, I have had my Piet plans for about 2 weeks now..and I noticed on
the full size rib drawing the note "soak in boiling water to bend" do/did you
do this get the rib sticks to conform to the jig in the nose area? Thanks for
the replies! Gregg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rib Jig non-stick tricks. |
I use a large pot and boil the ends of the cap for about an hour. You will
have flex for about 3-4 minutes. I leave them in the jig for about 10
minutes and remove and repeat with another set. I have been doing about 8
at a time. I have 2 jigs set up.
Dick Navratil
----- Original Message -----
From: <Greggotone(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib Jig non-stick tricks.
>
> Hello all, I have had my Piet plans for about 2 weeks now..and I noticed
on
> the full size rib drawing the note "soak in boiling water to bend" do/did
you
> do this get the rib sticks to conform to the jig in the nose area? Thanks
for
> the replies! Gregg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
My fuselage came off the saw horses today and id standing on gear. After
blocking the fixed gear to the height that the 19" wheels will stand at a
question arose. How do you gracefully mount this beast? I'm still in good
enough shape to mount a good size horse but even standing on a milk crate,
it was a stretch. Any comments, Please.
Dick Navratil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | fishin <fishin(at)wwa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rib Jig non-stick tricks. |
didn't boil mine at all. simply took a 2 foot length of 2" pvc tubing caped off
on
one end and filled it with water. I put in enough cap strips for the number I planned
to put together the next day. when they came out the next group went in for the
following days assembly. overnite soaking made them more than flexable enough to
go
into the forming jig (per Tony Bingelis)., from the forming jig into the gluing
jig.
repeating the process every day till all ribs were finished..was easy and never
"cooked" a single cap strip.
regards
JoeC
Zion, Ill
NX529PJ
richard navratil wrote:
>
> I use a large pot and boil the ends of the cap for about an hour. You will
> have flex for about 3-4 minutes. I leave them in the jig for about 10
> minutes and remove and repeat with another set. I have been doing about 8
> at a time. I have 2 jigs set up.
> Dick Navratil
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Greggotone(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2000 7:59 PM
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib Jig non-stick tricks.
>
> >
> > Hello all, I have had my Piet plans for about 2 weeks now..and I noticed
> on
> > the full size rib drawing the note "soak in boiling water to bend" do/did
> you
> > do this get the rib sticks to conform to the jig in the nose area? Thanks
> for
> > the replies! Gregg
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
pietbuilderoldplane(at)listbot.com, pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com,
fly5k(at)listbot.com, airsoob(at)lists.kz, Piet_Builder(at)listbot.com
| Subject: | 4 inch wheel/tires n stbes. |
I still need help finding a pair of four inch tires and tubes for my cub
wheels. I cant find any tubes that arent around 100.00 hunnert dollars
apiece for the ballon tires that came on them. Please help me.
Steve
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Conoly" <bconoly(at)surfsouth.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rib Jig non-stick tricks. |
gregg:
I didnt do much more than soak my capstrips in the kiddie pool for about 30
minutes or so before puttin em in the jig. 1/4 in stock bends pretty easy-
my theory is that as long as those outer fibers are soft- not much trouble
with bending. BUT! I live in a really humid area - North Fla/S. Georgia.
Maybe the moisture content in my batch of spruce was already really high??
So maybe this isnt good in Arizona.
I built 28 of these things with no problem.
Good luck, Bert
----- Original Message -----
From: <Greggotone(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib Jig non-stick tricks.
>
> Hello all, I have had my Piet plans for about 2 weeks now..and I noticed
on
> the full size rib drawing the note "soak in boiling water to bend" do/did
you
> do this get the rib sticks to conform to the jig in the nose area? Thanks
for
> the replies! Gregg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal(at)startribune.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rib Jig non-stick tricks. |
I boiled mine for 20-25 minutes and then immediately put them in the jig. They
are very easy to bend after boiling.
Greg Cardinal in Minneapolis
>>> 03/19 7:59 PM >>>
Hello all, I have had my Piet plans for about 2 weeks now..and I noticed on
the full size rib drawing the note "soak in boiling water to bend" do/did you
do this get the rib sticks to conform to the jig in the nose area? Thanks for
the replies! Gregg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Gillespie" <dickmarg(at)peganet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: climbing aboard |
A crane operated removeable seat works good for me except the parachute pack
makes it a little snug.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 4 inch wheel/tires n stbes. |
I think you may have to bite the bullet and buy the Cub tires and tubes.
If there is an alternative that will fit (not that I know of), it probably
won't look right. Besides, those balloon tires are that way for a purpose,
they cushion landing and taxi more than you think and really save wear and
tear on the airplane. Look at it this way, this is a one-time purchase
because you'll never wear them out.
________________________________________________________________________________
I called this local tire company and they have a (11 4.00x4) tire and
tube. Can yall tell me if this tire is big enough?
Steve
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Brusilow" <mb-albany(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: climbing aboard |
>
>My fuselage came off the saw horses today and id standing on gear. After
>blocking the fixed gear to the height that the 19" wheels will stand at a
>question arose. How do you gracefully mount this beast? >Dick Navratil
That's the problem with the big wheels. A retracting step is the answer.
Also, watch paved runways & taxi ramps. The airplane rolls & rolls.
I flew Ed Snyder's Piet quite a bit. He had the big wheels. I wasn't too
happy about getting in & out & he had the retractable step.
Mike B Piet N687MB ( Mr Sam )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | fishin <fishin(at)wwa.com> |
vistin(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> I called this local tire company and they have a (11 4.00x4) tire and
> tube. Can yall tell me if this tire is big enough?
> Steve
>
> Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
>
> GN-1--<(next project).
>
> IHA #6
>
> _why don't you just take your wheel down to this tire store and have
> them fit the tire on for you ???
JoeC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Piet shock struts. |
I need to know what size the head shock strut tube is and the size of the
lower shock strut tube so I can start building the shock/bungee shock
system. I only have the 1933 flying & glider mag and theres nothing in
there about building the shock tubes.
Steve
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Replicraft(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Piet shock struts. |
Steve-
I thought you said you were using a Cub gear...I assumed you had the assembly
and were trying to attach it.
I have drawings of the original 1934 split gear, but I would have to
photo-copy it, add some notes and snail-mail it to you.
Send me your phone number, and I'll call you. I scanned the j-3 gear , but
AOL won't e-mail files larger than 16kb.
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greggotone(at)aol.com |
Ron, No problem! Got 'em from the source of course!
Mr. Don Pietenpol, 1604 Meadow Circle, SE, Rochester, MN 55904-5251
$137 for the full set including 3-piece wing, corvair engine mod, longer fuse
plan, and ford A conversion supplements. Hope this helps! Gregg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Piet shock struts. |
I have the cub gear but I am trying too build my own spring gear using
springs instead of bungees. I am trying too figure out how too use your
parts too mount the cub gear but so far I can only use the pads and the
arco sports parts. I am going too attach the upper spring tubes and
attach the lower spring tubes to the original cub mounts so I will have
too send the mounts you sent back as I am going too make my own for the
top.The cub pictures will be most handy too be sure.
Steve
>
> Steve-
> I thought you said you were using a Cub gear...I assumed you had the
> assembly
> and were trying to attach it.
>
> I have drawings of the original 1934 split gear, but I would have to
>
> photo-copy it, add some notes and snail-mail it to you.
>
> Send me your phone number, and I'll call you. I scanned the j-3
> gear , but
> AOL won't e-mail files larger than 16kb.
>
> Steve
>
>
>
>
>
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Hinchman" <mikehi(at)molalla.net> |
Folks,
Any recommendations on a good book that talks about building wings, type of
table to build, etc., etc.?
I have finished my Wag-a bond wood ribs and will be ordering wood spars and
fittings and hopefully assembling things this summer. I have all kinds of
questions not covered in the plans, but I think something written will
probably answer all of them.
This is all new and I really don't know how to proceed without a "cookbook".
Thanks,
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOEL CARROLL <drcarroll_2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Building wings |
try tony bigilis books. also was a book by a guy in uk
that built a volksplane the pfa (popular flying
association ) in the uk would be able to give info.
they do have a website. good luck jkc
--- Michael Hinchman wrote:
> Hinchman"
>
> Folks,
>
> Any recommendations on a good book that talks about
> building wings, type of
> table to build, etc., etc.?
>
> I have finished my Wag-a bond wood ribs and will be
> ordering wood spars and
> fittings and hopefully assembling things this
> summer. I have all kinds of
> questions not covered in the plans, but I think
> something written will
> probably answer all of them.
>
> This is all new and I really don't know how to
> proceed without a "cookbook".
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
finished 90 percent of my metal parts. would like to
get some input on how many have powdercoated them,
versus spray painting. I have some very good high heat
paint ($10.00 a can) that I use on fireplaces and
stove pipe. I was thinking that might work reasonably
well.
comments?
del
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal(at)startribune.com> |
| Subject: | Re: painted parts |
Del,
Dale and I powder coated all of our metal fittings. I would highly recommend this
process. Powder coating equipment can be purchased for approx. $ 140.00. Check
JC Whitney or any auto supply store. Easy to apply, no messy paintbrushes,
excellant appearance.
Greg Cardinal
>>> del magsam 03/21 8:31 AM >>>
finished 90 percent of my metal parts. would like to
get some input on how many have powdercoated them,
versus spray painting. I have some very good high heat
paint ($10.00 a can) that I use on fireplaces and
stove pipe. I was thinking that might work reasonably
well.
comments?
del
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wheels and tires |
| From: | "Sherri Morton" <smorton3(at)bellsouth.net> |
I am going to use a set of Matco( formerly Rosenhan) wheels and brakes on my Air
Camper. The manufacturer recommends using th e11.4 x 5 Lamb tires. Thesee tires
are smaller than I would like. Does anyone out there have any experience mounting
larger tires on these wheels?
E. Paul Morton
Access your e-mail anywhere, at any time.
Get your FREE BellSouth Web Mail account today!
http://webmail.bellsouth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Eldredge <steve(at)byu.edu> |
| Subject: | Wheels and tires |
I used Matco 6x600 wheels. I switch between 8.5's and regular airtracks.
Very happy with them. the 5" wheels would work, however might look small on
the piet.
Stevee.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sherri
Morton
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wheels and tires
I am going to use a set of Matco( formerly Rosenhan) wheels and brakes on my
Air Camper. The manufacturer recommends using th e11.4 x 5 Lamb tires.
Thesee tires are smaller than I would like. Does anyone out there have any
experience mounting larger tires on these wheels?
E. Paul Morton
Access your e-mail anywhere, at any time.
Get your FREE BellSouth Web Mail account today!
http://webmail.bellsouth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheels and tires |
Ok folks, there are a pair of J-3 tires and tubes on e-bay right now fairly
cheap, item # 286921974. Auction ends in a couple of days.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOEL CARROLL <drcarroll_2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheels and tires |
hi gene: as i am new to computers how do you get on
ebay? thanks
--- Gene Rambo wrote:
>
>
> Ok folks, there are a pair of J-3 tires and tubes on
> e-bay right now fairly
> cheap, item # 286921974. Auction ends in a couple
> of days.
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Conoly" <bconoly(at)surfsouth.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun N Fun Volunteers Needed |
Hello Everybody...
Once again Sun N Fun is upon us. Yipppppeeeee!!!! For those of us south of
the Mason Dixon line, this IS Oshkosh.
If you plan on attending PLEASE consider volunteering a few hours if you
can. It takes many hundreds of people to pull it off and any help at all is
appreciated, I've worked 8 of the last 10 years I have attended. I have met
many, many new friends, given a little and taken home a lot.
This year we had a co-chairman for the hands-on workshops who had to back
out just last week. I inherited the dubious honor of trying to pick up and
proceed with plans for the wood workshop. The last few years with only a
VERY, Very SMALL handful of volunteers we have managed to assemble a
demo-version of a wooden fuselage - the idea being to provide the general
public, potential builders, or even experienced veterans with an idea of
basic construction techniques for wooden aircraft. Amazingly enough it
looks just like a ..... PIETENPOL.
This year we plan on building ribs, building tailfeathers, a turtle deck,
and demonstrating construction of a laminated rudder (or something). But we
need volunteers. Please, if you plan on attending, consider offering up a
few hours. Hey, I'll tell you during the hot part of the day, in FLORIDA,
being under a tent is a good thing. You dont have to be an expert - we are
all volunteers!
Besides you can get a neat volunteer patch, free sandwiches and drinks for
lunch, and get to meet hundreds of "airplane-heads" like we all are from all
over the country and world. I wont name drop, but you also may get to meet
some really knowledgable people (and even a little famous?)
If you would care to volunteer in our shop please contact me at
850-921-9035 work 9-5
921-246-1389 home after 7
Or when you get to SNF just look for the volunteer booth(s). They will put
you to work somewhere BUT I garauntee picking up trash or taking up tickets
won't be near as much fun as talking about or building airplanes .
Sorry for the commercial. But if you make it to SNF, come by the hands-on
workshops and say hello.
See You at SNF,
Bert Conoly
Bainbridge, Ga (Almost Tallahassee)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun N Fun Volunteers Needed |
I am planning on going for a few days and will gladly give some time. You
can call me at work 800-969-0454.
Also for anyone in Mpls/St Paul area , I am flying a Seneca down and camping
with the plane. So far I'm going alone. Leaving about April 6 coming back
11 or 12 th I'm not sure of total plans at this point. If anyone wants to
share the ride , let me know.
Dick Navratil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Conoly" <bconoly(at)surfsouth.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Sun N Fun Volunteers Needed
>
> Hello Everybody...
>
> Once again Sun N Fun is upon us. Yipppppeeeee!!!! For those of us south
of
> the Mason Dixon line, this IS Oshkosh.
>
> If you plan on attending PLEASE consider volunteering a few hours if you
> can. It takes many hundreds of people to pull it off and any help at all
is
> appreciated, I've worked 8 of the last 10 years I have attended. I have
met
> many, many new friends, given a little and taken home a lot.
>
> This year we had a co-chairman for the hands-on workshops who had to back
> out just last week. I inherited the dubious honor of trying to pick up
and
> proceed with plans for the wood workshop. The last few years with only a
> VERY, Very SMALL handful of volunteers we have managed to assemble a
> demo-version of a wooden fuselage - the idea being to provide the general
> public, potential builders, or even experienced veterans with an idea of
> basic construction techniques for wooden aircraft. Amazingly enough it
> looks just like a ..... PIETENPOL.
>
> This year we plan on building ribs, building tailfeathers, a turtle deck,
> and demonstrating construction of a laminated rudder (or something). But
we
> need volunteers. Please, if you plan on attending, consider offering up a
> few hours. Hey, I'll tell you during the hot part of the day, in FLORIDA,
> being under a tent is a good thing. You dont have to be an expert - we
are
> all volunteers!
>
> Besides you can get a neat volunteer patch, free sandwiches and drinks for
> lunch, and get to meet hundreds of "airplane-heads" like we all are from
all
> over the country and world. I wont name drop, but you also may get to
meet
> some really knowledgable people (and even a little famous?)
>
> If you would care to volunteer in our shop please contact me at
>
> 850-921-9035 work 9-5
> 921-246-1389 home after 7
>
> Or when you get to SNF just look for the volunteer booth(s). They will
put
> you to work somewhere BUT I garauntee picking up trash or taking up
tickets
> won't be near as much fun as talking about or building airplanes .
>
> Sorry for the commercial. But if you make it to SNF, come by the
hands-on
> workshops and say hello.
>
> See You at SNF,
>
> Bert Conoly
> Bainbridge, Ga (Almost Tallahassee)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheels and tires |
Joel, www.ebay.com Then, you'll have to follow the directions to obtain a
password. The rest is self explanatory.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <mikec(at)microlandusa.com> |
Do you need to use any type of fungus treatment before applying the Stits
epoxy varnish? The EAA "Wood" book (somewhat dated I think)discusses the
need to treat for fungus before coating with varnish but I have not heard of
anyone doing it. Since epoxy varnish should seal better and crack less does
this reduce/eliminate the need for fungus treatment?
----- Original Message -----
From: <RBush96589(at)aol.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: varnish
>
> Good morning group,
> I am about to do some varnishing using
Stitts
> epoxy spar varnish. It says to reduce it and gives a part # for their
reducer
> that I didn't get, is there something else I could use?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Robert Bush
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOEL CARROLL <drcarroll_2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wheels and tires |
gene thank you very much JKC
--- Gene Rambo wrote:
>
>
>
> Joel, www.ebay.com Then, you'll have to follow the
> directions to obtain a
> password. The rest is self explanatory.
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stapelberg Norman/Shelly" <stapres(at)mweb.co.za> |
Good day fellow Piet builders
I am new to the piet listing, could you please be so kind to e-mail me the
fax no of Don Pietenpol, as I am in South Africa and the snail mail would
take forever to get there and back . I want to purchase a set of plans for
the aircamper, any feelings regarding the metal fusalage vs. the wood
fuselage.
Thanking you all in advance
Norman Stapelberg
stapres(at)mweb.co.za
-----Original Message-----
From: Greggotone(at)aol.com <Greggotone(at)aol.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 02:00
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Piet. Plans
>
>Ron, No problem! Got 'em from the source of course!
>Mr. Don Pietenpol, 1604 Meadow Circle, SE, Rochester, MN 55904-5251
>$137 for the full set including 3-piece wing, corvair engine mod, longer
fuse
>plan, and ford A conversion supplements. Hope this helps! Gregg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
I forwarded your request to Andrew Pietenpol. so that
he can contact you.
--- Stapelberg Norman/Shelly
wrote:
> Norman/Shelly"
>
> Good day fellow Piet builders
>
> I am new to the piet listing, could you please be so
> kind to e-mail me the
> fax no of Don Pietenpol, as I am in South Africa and
> the snail mail would
> take forever to get there and back . I want to
> purchase a set of plans for
> the aircamper, any feelings regarding the metal
> fusalage vs. the wood
> fuselage.
>
> Thanking you all in advance
>
> Norman Stapelberg
> stapres(at)mweb.co.za
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Greggotone(at)aol.com <Greggotone(at)aol.com>
> To: rbutch(at)inreach.com
> Date: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 02:00
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Piet. Plans
>
>
> Greggotone(at)aol.com
> >
> >Ron, No problem! Got 'em from the source of course!
> >Mr. Don Pietenpol, 1604 Meadow Circle, SE,
> Rochester, MN 55904-5251
> >$137 for the full set including 3-piece wing,
> corvair engine mod, longer
> fuse
> >plan, and ford A conversion supplements. Hope this
> helps! Gregg
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Meadows" <gwmeadows(at)hotmail.com> |
Norman,
Hi, welcome to the wonderful world of low and slow! Don Pietenpol's fax and
email information is below. Good Luck!
Donald Pietenpol
Home Fax: (507) 289-1279
Email: PietenpolDon(at)Juno.com
Gary Meadows,
Spring, TX.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "B and V Dearinger" <dearinge(at)iocc.com> |
Hi As far as wood or metal construction, use the type that you are most
familiar with or that is easiest to purchase in your area.I prefer the wood
but that is because it is pretty and smells good.I know ...That sounds like
a personal problem.Take care, Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Stapelberg Norman/Shelly <stapres(at)mweb.co.za>
Date: Wednesday, March 22, 2000 12:08 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Piet. Plans
>
> Good day fellow Piet builders
>
>I am new to the piet listing, could you please be so kind to e-mail me the
>fax no of Don Pietenpol, as I am in South Africa and the snail mail would
>take forever to get there and back . I want to purchase a set of plans for
>the aircamper, any feelings regarding the metal fusalage vs. the wood
>fuselage.
>
>Thanking you all in advance
>
>Norman Stapelberg
>stapres(at)mweb.co.za
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Greggotone(at)aol.com <Greggotone(at)aol.com>
>To: rbutch(at)inreach.com
>Date: Tuesday, March 21, 2000 02:00
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Piet. Plans
>
>
>>
>>Ron, No problem! Got 'em from the source of course!
>>Mr. Don Pietenpol, 1604 Meadow Circle, SE, Rochester, MN 55904-5251
>>$137 for the full set including 3-piece wing, corvair engine mod, longer
>fuse
>>plan, and ford A conversion supplements. Hope this helps! Gregg
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
| Subject: | Tail wheel spring |
What have yall used for a tail wheel spring too extend the t/wheel
farther back.
Steve
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Domenico Bellissimo" <adbell(at)yesic.com> |
The fungus they are talking about is mildew and drywrought. The chemical
sealer used under the varnish is "pentachlorophenal". I don't know if it's
still available as it is a carcinogen. It must not be sprayed, only brushed.
It works very well and was used for many years. I don't know if it is still
available. I found (I think) the last gallon in Toronto at an old hardware
store. The major chains didn't carry it. In any case there must be some
substitute. I would try and find something or kiss your structure good-bye
within a few years.
Regards,
Domenico
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOEL CARROLL <drcarroll_2000(at)yahoo.com> |
to all in the us, pentachloralphenol was put into a
restricted class in the mid 1980's. it is still
available, but you must have training to handle/buy it
and probably a permit from the EPA. creosote went the
same way. don't know prices. after it dries on wood,it
crystallizes and flakes off. you then breathe/injest
it. it has to be sealed in. took me 6 coats of paint
and sealer to do the job. i wouldn't want a carcinogen
in or around my a/c if it could be prevented. doc
--- Domenico Bellissimo wrote:
> Bellissimo"
>
> The fungus they are talking about is mildew and
> drywrought. The chemical
> sealer used under the varnish is
> "pentachlorophenal". I don't know if it's
> still available as it is a carcinogen. It must not
> be sprayed, only brushed.
> It works very well and was used for many years. I
> don't know if it is still
> available. I found (I think) the last gallon in
> Toronto at an old hardware
> store. The major chains didn't carry it. In any case
> there must be some
> substitute. I would try and find something or kiss
> your structure good-bye
> within a few years.
>
> Regards,
> Domenico
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Robert,
It's not good to mix any brand name paint or chemical with another brand
name. A lot of guys do it and it often works OK, but there is always the
chance that something bad will happen. It's best not to take the chance.
John Langston
Pipe Creek, TX
nle97(at)juno.com
>
> Good morning group,
>
> I am about to do some varnishing
> using Stitts
> epoxy spar varnish. It says to reduce it and gives a part # for
> their reducer
> that I didn't get, is there something else I could use?
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Robert Bush
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ws133b(at)uswest.net |
by omahpop1.omah.uswest.net with SMTP; 23 Mar 2000 23":40:59.-0000(at)matronics.com
Referencing AC 43.13-1B, Chapter 1, the primary objective of interior finishes
(i.e., varnish) is to afford protection of the wood against serious change in
moisture content when exposed to damp air or to water that gains entrance to
closed spaces by condensation or by penetration of rain, mist, or fog. It
further states the moisture content of the wood will have to be 20% or greater
(versus 8-12% for dry wood) to sustain fungus growth. Keep your wood dry, and
you shouldn't have a decay problem. I've not heard of adding fungicidal
compounds to aircraft varnish. Also, I would be concerned about pre-treating
wood with these compounds prior to assembly of components, because of possible
impact on glue performance/adhesion.
Approved fungicidal compounds are commonly added to dope used to coat cotton and
linen aircraft fabric, however.
With regard to substitute thinners for the Stits varnish, suggest sticking with
manufacturer's recommendations.
Ted Tuckerman
Mike wrote:
>
> Do you need to use any type of fungus treatment before applying the Stits
> epoxy varnish? The EAA "Wood" book (somewhat dated I think)discusses the
> need to treat for fungus before coating with varnish but I have not heard of
> anyone doing it. Since epoxy varnish should seal better and crack less does
> this reduce/eliminate the need for fungus treatment?
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RBush96589(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2000 7:54 AM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: varnish
>
> >
> > Good morning group,
> > I am about to do some varnishing using
> Stitts
> > epoxy spar varnish. It says to reduce it and gives a part # for their
> reducer
> > that I didn't get, is there something else I could use?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Robert Bush
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | what I used for " varnish" |
The Aircamper that I am now building is at the "varnishing" stage. ( just
doing the last wing now).
I'm following the suggestions of the supplier of my first project, when it
comes to finishes. It was Fisher Flying Products, with a FFP-404, and they
suggested polyurithane . I used it and had NO reaction between that and
the fabric glue.(poly fibre) . On the ultralight I used one coat
everywhere, and two coats where the fabric contacted.
Was worried about the whole covering process, but reaction between glues and
varnish wasn't a problem.
Covering is the most scarey before you do it, but looking back, it was the
most rewarding.
walt evans
-----------------------------------------------------
Click here for Free Video!!
http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Domenico Bellissimo" <adbell(at)yesic.com> |
Hey Guys,
Dry wrought is a real problem. Treating wood before varnishing has been done
for at least 90 years. I know of at least 2 planes at the Brampton airport
with the decease. If pentachlorophenal is no longer available use a
substitute but use something. Talk to some of the old timers at your
respective airports. Call the E.A.A. or the R.A.A. in Canada for some
advice. Make sure also that there is plenty of air circulation in the wings
and fuselage. On the trailing edge of your wing use seaplane grommets(face
the open end to the rear of the plane. This allows for water to exit in a
rainfall and moist air from the inside to be exited whilst flying. Make sure
you have small holes at the rear/bottom of the fuselage for water and
condensation to exit. Another thing, cut the grass short near the tail of
the plane. Moisture from the long grass will will eventually wrought the
rear of the fuselage (just ask Jack Watson of Fergus, Ontario). He has the
only Pietenpol that has never flown in 20 years and had to rebuild the rear
of the fuselage due to dry wrought. In winter if you park outside raise the
tail a little to keep it higher than the snow.
I think I've said enough,
Domenic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
What about West System Epoxy. Greg, you and Dale used it on your ribs ,
Didn't you? In boat building West system is as good as they get .
Dick Navratil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Domenico Bellissimo" <adbell(at)yesic.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: varnish
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> Dry wrought is a real problem. Treating wood before varnishing has been
done
> for at least 90 years. I know of at least 2 planes at the Brampton airport
> with the decease. If pentachlorophenal is no longer available use a
> substitute but use something. Talk to some of the old timers at your
> respective airports. Call the E.A.A. or the R.A.A. in Canada for some
> advice. Make sure also that there is plenty of air circulation in the
wings
> and fuselage. On the trailing edge of your wing use seaplane grommets(face
> the open end to the rear of the plane. This allows for water to exit in a
> rainfall and moist air from the inside to be exited whilst flying. Make
sure
> you have small holes at the rear/bottom of the fuselage for water and
> condensation to exit. Another thing, cut the grass short near the tail of
> the plane. Moisture from the long grass will will eventually wrought the
> rear of the fuselage (just ask Jack Watson of Fergus, Ontario). He has the
> only Pietenpol that has never flown in 20 years and had to rebuild the
rear
> of the fuselage due to dry wrought. In winter if you park outside raise
the
> tail a little to keep it higher than the snow.
>
> I think I've said enough,
>
> Domenic
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Domenico Bellissimo" <adbell(at)yesic.com> |
Hi everyone,
The West System Epoxy is about the best you can get for boats. There is one
more thing I forgot to mention, and that is that spar varnish allows the
wood fibre to breath. All wood must breath or there will be trouble down the
road. It may be o.k. for a few years but then look out. For this reason I
used varnish and not any plastic/ epoxy sealers.
Domenic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOEL CARROLL <drcarroll_2000(at)yahoo.com> |
pietenpol plans are available from the man who drew
the originals as a 16 yo working for bhp.
orrin hoopman
800 17th st.sw
austin,mn.55912
507.433.1729 please dont call after 930pm cst
prices(s&h to usa included) as of 3-10-2000
'33 improved aircamper $50
original aircamper $50
sky scout $50
good luck to all. orrin has parkinsons,so if anyone
wants to send a card to cheer him up feel free.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal(at)startribune.com> |
We coated the turtledeck, interior floor, seats and wooden landing gear legs with
West. Everything else has been varnished with a polyurethane varnish.
Greg Cardinal
What about West System Epoxy. Greg, you and Dale used it on your ribs ,
Didn't you? In boat building West system is as good as they get .
Dick Navratil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Domenico Bellissimo" <adbell(at)yesic.com>
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> Dry wrought is a real problem. Treating wood before varnishing has been
done
> for at least 90 years. I know of at least 2 planes at the Brampton airport
> with the decease. If pentachlorophenal is no longer available use a
> substitute but use something. Talk to some of the old timers at your
> respective airports. Call the E.A.A. or the R.A.A. in Canada for some
> advice. Make sure also that there is plenty of air circulation in the
wings
> and fuselage. On the trailing edge of your wing use seaplane grommets(face
> the open end to the rear of the plane. This allows for water to exit in a
> rainfall and moist air from the inside to be exited whilst flying. Make
sure
> you have small holes at the rear/bottom of the fuselage for water and
> condensation to exit. Another thing, cut the grass short near the tail of
> the plane. Moisture from the long grass will will eventually wrought the
> rear of the fuselage (just ask Jack Watson of Fergus, Ontario). He has the
> only Pietenpol that has never flown in 20 years and had to rebuild the
rear
> of the fuselage due to dry wrought. In winter if you park outside raise
the
> tail a little to keep it higher than the snow.
>
> I think I've said enough,
>
> Domenic
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Krzes" <jkrzes(at)hotmail.com> |
I'm not an expert, but from what I've read, epoxy has a very stablizing
effect on wood and the WEST system (or any other epoxy varnish) has
virtually revived wooden boat building since it minimizes the problems with
rot (unlike traditional varnishes).
Joe K.
Spring, TX
(14' Skipjack, now building Piet tail)
>From: "richard navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net>
>Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: varnish
>Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2000 20:19:24 -0600
>
>
>
>What about West System Epoxy. Greg, you and Dale used it on your ribs ,
>Didn't you? In boat building West system is as good as they get .
>Dick Navratil
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Domenico Bellissimo" <adbell(at)yesic.com>
>To:
>Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 7:36 PM
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: varnish
>
>
>
> >
> > Hey Guys,
> >
> > Dry wrought is a real problem. Treating wood before varnishing has been
>done
> > for at least 90 years. I know of at least 2 planes at the Brampton
>airport
> > with the decease. If pentachlorophenal is no longer available use a
> > substitute but use something. Talk to some of the old timers at your
> > respective airports. Call the E.A.A. or the R.A.A. in Canada for some
> > advice. Make sure also that there is plenty of air circulation in the
>wings
> > and fuselage. On the trailing edge of your wing use seaplane
>grommets(face
> > the open end to the rear of the plane. This allows for water to exit in
>a
> > rainfall and moist air from the inside to be exited whilst flying. Make
>sure
> > you have small holes at the rear/bottom of the fuselage for water and
> > condensation to exit. Another thing, cut the grass short near the tail
>of
> > the plane. Moisture from the long grass will will eventually wrought the
> > rear of the fuselage (just ask Jack Watson of Fergus, Ontario). He has
>the
> > only Pietenpol that has never flown in 20 years and had to rebuild the
>rear
> > of the fuselage due to dry wrought. In winter if you park outside raise
>the
> > tail a little to keep it higher than the snow.
> >
> > I think I've said enough,
> >
> > Domenic
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greggotone(at)aol.com |
Okay, silly question time! (My partner in building crime has our plans right
now) I have seen the GN-1 plans (Bought a set) and we have the real Piet
plans. Without looking at them, I ask, "Did you guys use 1/4" square or 1/4"
X 1/2" for your ribs?" I believe I remember seeing 1/4 square mentioned on
the GN-1 plans..1/4 X 1/2 on the Piet plans...Thanks and Happy Friday to all!
Gregg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | fishin <fishin(at)wwa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rib stock size |
1/4x1/2 is what is called for...1/4x1/2 is what I used...heavy duty they are
compared to so many I've seen built with 1/4x1/4, (not Piets)
regards
JoeC
Zion, Illinois
NX529PJ
Greggotone(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Okay, silly question time! (My partner in building crime has our plans right
> now) I have seen the GN-1 plans (Bought a set) and we have the real Piet
> plans. Without looking at them, I ask, "Did you guys use 1/4" square or 1/4"
> X 1/2" for your ribs?" I believe I remember seeing 1/4 square mentioned on
> the GN-1 plans..1/4 X 1/2 on the Piet plans...Thanks and Happy Friday to all!
> Gregg
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal(at)startribune.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rib stock size |
1/4 X 1/2. Too much rib aft of the rear spar to skimp on cap strip size. Peace
of mind is worth its weight in gold.
Greg Cardinal
I ask, "Did you guys use 1/4" square or 1/4"
X 1/2" for your ribs?"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Gillespie" <dickmarg(at)peganet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rib stock size |
one-quarter or one-half on the GN-1 plans. I think most everybody uses the
one-half. I did.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rib stock size |
Not so silly a question!
I found out too late that BP made his ribdimensions 1/4 x 1/2 but
all his sizing was done centre of saw kerf to centre of saw kerf
which means all lumber cut is actually oversize when compared to
the dimensions. I could have saved some weight by using BP's
method. As is, the wing appears very strong, and is p[robably
overbuilt (read overweight)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Greggotone(at)aol.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Rib stock size
>
> Okay, silly question time! (My partner in building crime has
our plans right
> now) I have seen the GN-1 plans (Bought a set) and we have the
real Piet
> plans. Without looking at them, I ask, "Did you guys use 1/4"
square or 1/4"
> X 1/2" for your ribs?" I believe I remember seeing 1/4 square
mentioned on
> the GN-1 plans..1/4 X 1/2 on the Piet plans...Thanks and Happy
Friday to all!
> Gregg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Duprey <j-m-duprey(at)erols.com> |
I havent got anything from the list since friday A.M. Just testing to
make shure I did not get dumped.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | fishin <fishin(at)wwa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tenpol-List:testing |
I hear you John---could be everyone is enjoying the break in the weather and
is back in the shop working on their project. that's where I've been, making
saw-dust, spreading glue and filing those aluminum hinges..
regards
JoeC
Zion, Illinois
NX529PJ
John Duprey wrote:
>
> I havent got anything from the list since friday A.M. Just testing to
> make shure I did not get dumped.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal(at)startribune.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for Craig Aho |
Craig Aho,
If you are watching this list please contact me.
Thanks, Greg Cardinal in Minneapolis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dennis yates <yatesfly(at)yahoo.com> |
Hello has anyone seen a book or plans for a bandsaw
made of plywood? I remeber seeing it in a EAA magazine
a number of years ago. I noticed there are plans for
the EAA work table so thought someone may have seen
this. Also I am not having any luck finding any clear
fir in my area I would travel a couple hundred miles
if I had to. I live in west central Ill. about 100
miles south of the quad cities.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "richard navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
"pietenpol list"
Do you have a Knox lumber yard near? I was there a few weeks ago and saw
some great wood in the bins for #1sfp tongue and groove flooring.
----- Original Message -----
From: "dennis yates" <yatesfly(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: book
>
> Hello has anyone seen a book or plans for a bandsaw
> made of plywood? I remeber seeing it in a EAA magazine
> a number of years ago. I noticed there are plans for
> the EAA work table so thought someone may have seen
> this. Also I am not having any luck finding any clear
> fir in my area I would travel a couple hundred miles
> if I had to. I live in west central Ill. about 100
> miles south of the quad cities.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <houndsfour(at)mediaone.net> |
dennis yates wrote:
>
> Hello has anyone seen a book or plans for a bandsaw
> made of plywood?
Yes, I had one of the damm things. It was a kit. You got the castings for
the
"blade wheels" afew bearings and some other parts. The plans for
the frame were on news print paper. I worked on that saw for over 2 months
and
it never did cut a stright line. After all was said and done, I spent more
money on the "kit band saw" then if I had just bought a used Sears or
something
similar. I think that company went out of business.
I don't know what your building but you are not that far from Wicks
Aircraft.
When I built my Piet. I used only aircraft standard materials and I've
never been
sorry.
Good luck
Rich
>
>
>
> I live in west central Ill. about 100
> miles south of the quad cities.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gerald Zuhlke" <zuhlkeg(at)elroynet.com> |
Dennis,
The article on the bandsaw is in Sport Aviation, Sept 1973 pages 18-19
"Chapter 256 Homebuilt Bandsaw"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Bell" <mbell(at)sctcorp.com> |
11:02:44 PM
Look for some poplar. It might be easier to come by in your area.
You'll need pretty much the same quality standard as fir. It works
better than fir also. Not as nice as spruce, but pretty good.
Mike Bell
Columbia, SC
dennis yates (at)matronics.com on 03/27/2000 08:19:08
PM
Please respond to pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
To: pietenpol list
cc:
Subject: Pietenpol-List: book
Hello has anyone seen a book or plans for a bandsaw
made of plywood? I remeber seeing it in a EAA magazine
a number of years ago. I noticed there are plans for
the EAA work table so thought someone may have seen
this. Also I am not having any luck finding any clear
fir in my area I would travel a couple hundred miles
if I had to. I live in west central Ill. about 100
miles south of the quad cities.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Griffin <griffins(at)emji.net> |
Hi all!
I'm using the Flying Manual reprint to build a Sky Scout. My problem
lies in the spacing of the rear spar. If the spar is 4.75 inches in
height it will not fit where the plans place it. Should the rear spar be
moved foward .75" or should the spar be placed as shown and made .125"
shorter to fit between the capstrips? Maybe I shouldn't be trying to lay
everything out on paper first and just build the thing.
Thanks in advance,
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Spar spacing |
Jeff,
Think this was discussed a while ago. Seems there is a glitch in the
sizing. Some decided to bevel the top of the spar. What I did was to notch
the rib in the back/top of the slot where the spar fits.
Moving the spar is probably not a good idea, cause changing one dimension
will change 20 more down the line. Now that I've finished all major parts
,you can see why certain dimensions were like they are, but you don't find
out till months or years later when things come together.
walt
-----------------------------------------------------
Click here for Free Video!!
http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Griffin <griffins(at)emji.net>
Date: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 12:12 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Spar spacing
>
>Hi all!
> I'm using the Flying Manual reprint to build a Sky Scout. My problem
>lies in the spacing of the rear spar. If the spar is 4.75 inches in
>height it will not fit where the plans place it. Should the rear spar be
>moved foward .75" or should the spar be placed as shown and made .125"
>shorter to fit between the capstrips? Maybe I shouldn't be trying to lay
>everything out on paper first and just build the thing.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Jeff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael King <mikek(at)nsnwi.net> |
Howdy from Dallas,
Does anybody on the list know of the best source
(selection & price) for a digital tach? I heard prices
from Wag-Aero are higher than Aircraft Spruce but
don't know of "other" sources.
I have mechanical tachs in both cockpits, but they
are not as accurate as I would like. As a matter of
fact, they are off quite a bit. This was determined by
using a handheld digital tach.
My engine is an A-80 currently swinging a metal
cruise prop. I would like to know what the engine
is really turning. I am thinking about getting a
wood prop, but before doing so, I want to install
a digital tachometer to run off the mags.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again.
Mike King
GN-1
77MK
Dallas, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Shoun <wbnb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: DIGITAL TACHS |
Mike,
It isn't aircraft, but it is digital and has an hour meter and looks
beautiful. Also, click down to the bottom of the page for a cool
"mini-tach".
http://www.dakotadigital.com/products/tach.htm
Cheers,
Warren
Michael King wrote:
>
> Howdy from Dallas,
>
> Does anybody on the list know of the best source
> (selection & price) for a digital tach? I heard prices
> from Wag-Aero are higher than Aircraft Spruce but
> don't know of "other" sources.
>
> I have mechanical tachs in both cockpits, but they
> are not as accurate as I would like. As a matter of
> fact, they are off quite a bit. This was determined by
> using a handheld digital tach.
>
> My engine is an A-80 currently swinging a metal
> cruise prop. I would like to know what the engine
> is really turning. I am thinking about getting a
> wood prop, but before doing so, I want to install
> a digital tachometer to run off the mags.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Mike King
> GN-1
> 77MK
> Dallas, Texas
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Beanlands <kbeanlan(at)spots.ab.ca> |
Pietenpol Discussion
Anyone interested?
Ken Beanlands B.Eng (Aerospace)
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Christavia MK 1 C-GREN
<http://www.spots.ab.ca/~kbeanlan>
---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 16:31:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Gene N <stinbolt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: A-65 ?
Hi, Ken;
A few weeks ago you refered someone to me re; my
Cont. 65. What he really needs is an A65. I've
discvered one here in Tucson that I believe to be a
good buy. It's certified and has been upgraded to
75hp.Believe it or not the TOTAL time is under 150
hours since new. It has an interesting history that I
won't go into at this time.
Perhaps you can get back to this fellow or even
put it out the List?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Donald Mosher <docshop(at)famvid.com> |
| Subject: | "How to" book sale by EAA |
To Piet builders -
Each year EAA has a "EAA Chapter only" sale on books and videos. This year the
sale lasts for two months - from April 1 thru May 31. Any item in the "EAA
Aviation Books & Videos" catalog is 50% off. The catalog is the 8 1/2 x 11 glossy
20 page booklet with some 26 color photos on the covers, including one of
a grumpy old guy building a Glastar.
Your EAA Chapter should have received a copy of the catalog and the order blank,
and you should track it down within your own Chapter. However, sometimes this
gets blocked at the leadership level in the Chapter and some members never
see the offer.
I suggest that you call EAA at 1-800-843-3612. Ask them to send you a copy of
"EAA Aviation Books & Videos" and the special "Chapters Only" order blank and
postage-paid order envelope. Be sure to request the special order blank.
There are lots of "how to" books on three pages of the catalog and the rest of
the pages list videos. Some of the videos are "how to" such as ""Basic Aircraft
Woodworking" and "How to Get Started."
Examples of books for Piet builders:
1929-1930-1931-1932-1933 Flying and Glider Manuals $6.95 each
The 1932 Flying and Glider Manual features the Pietenpol Aircamper.
The 1933 Flying and Glider Manual features the Pietenpol Air Scout.
A package of all five Flying and Glider Manuals is priced at $29.95.
Bingelis' "Sportplane Builder" $24.95
Bingelis' "Sportplane Construction Techniques" $24.95
Bingelis' "Firewall Forward" $24.95
"Bingelis on Engines" $24.95
The four-volume set is priced at $79.95.
"EAA Wood Aircraft Building Techniques" $11.95
"Alternative Engines" by Mick Myal $44.95
This is your opportunity to get any of these at half-price! The Bingelis set of
four volumes is $40.00 during this Chapter only sale, instead of $79.95. You
have to pay the postage.
You have to list your EAA number and your Chapter number on the order blank.
I'll see some of you at Sun'n'Fun.
Doc Mosher
Oshkosh USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Donald Mosher <docshop(at)famvid.com> |
| Subject: | "How to" book sale by EAA |
To Piet builders:
Each year EAA has a "EAA Chapter only" sale on books and videos. This year the
sale lasts from April 1 thru May 31. Any item in the "EAA Aviation Books & Videos"
catalog is 50% off. The catalog is the 8 1/2 x 11 glossy 20-page booklet
with some 26 color photos on the covers, including one of a grumpy old guy
building a Glastar.
Your EAA Chapter should have received a copy of the catalog and the order blank,
and you should track it down within your own Chapter. However, sometimes this
gets blocked at the leadership level in the Chapter and some members may never
see the offer.
I suggest that you call EAA at 1-800-843-3612. Ask them to send you a copy of
"EAA Aviation Books & Videos" and the special "Chapters Only" order blank and
postage-paid order envelope. Be sure to request the special order blank (for
your Chapter, of course).
There are lots of "how to" books on three pages of the catalog and the rest of
the pages list videos. Some of the videos are "how to" such as "Basic Aircraft
Woodworking" and "How to Get Started."
Examples of books for Piet builders:
1929-1930-1931-1932-1933 Flying and Glider Manuals $6.95 each
The 1932 Flying and Glider Manual features how to build the Pietenpol Aircamper.
The 1933 Flying and Glider Manual features how to build the Pietenpol Air Scout.
A package of all five Flying and Glider Manuals is priced at $29.95.
Bingelis' "Sportplane Builder" $24.95
Bingelis' "Sportplane Construction Techniques" $24.95
Bingelis' "Firewall Forward" $24.95
"Bingelis on Engines" $24.95
The four-volume set is priced at $79.95.
"EAA Wood Aircraft Building Techniques" $11.95
"Alternative Engines" by Mick Myal $44.95 (auto engines for airplanes)
This is your opportunity to get any of these books at half price! The Bingelis
set of four volumes is $40.00 during this Chapter Only sale, instead of $79.95.
You have to pay the postage.
You have to list your EAA number and your Chapter on the order blank.
I'll see some of you at Sun'n'Fun.
Doc Mosher
Oshkosh USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barry Davis" <bed(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | PIET: a-65 to a-75 |
Does anyone know the procedure to convert an A-65 to A-75?
Does a manual exist?
Any help at all?
Barry Davis
bed(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PIET: a-65 to a-75 |
I think it is just different pistons.
----------
> From: Barry Davis <bed(at)mindspring.com>
> To: piet list
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: PIET: a-65 to a-75
> Date: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 9:36 PM
>
>
> Does anyone know the procedure to convert an A-65 to A-75?
> Does a manual exist?
> Any help at all?
>
> Barry Davis
> bed(at)mindspring.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Spar spacing |
In a message dated 3/28/00 10:56:36 PM Central Standard Time,
griffins(at)emji.net writes:
<< Hi all!
I'm using the Flying Manual reprint to build a Sky Scout. My problem
lies in the spacing of the rear spar. If the spar is 4.75 inches in
height it will not fit where the plans place it. Should the rear spar be
moved foward .75" or should the spar be placed as shown and made .125"
shorter to fit between the capstrips? Maybe I shouldn't be trying to lay
everything out on paper first and just build the thing.
Thanks in advance,
Jeff >>
Jeff,
I'm using the 'Improved Air Camper' plans and didn't have much trouble
getting the ribs to fit the spar spacing. It was a tight fit, though.
Don't alter the spacing of the spars, because this would alter the cabane
struts, and the attachments to the fuselage, and the landing gear. Don't
alter the height of the spar, either, as this will weaken the wing (ya just
never know when ya might hit some turbulance), and don't noch the top cap
strip on the ribs, either. This would cause a weak point in the rib. I
think the best way is to alter your rib jig slightly, to accept the height of
the spar.
Chuck G.
Wichita KS
ps See y'all at the Annual Pietenpol Fly-In, at Benton Airpark, on
Saturday, Sept. 9
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "oil can" <oilcanbob(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PIET: a-65 to a-75 |
As I recall, the difference between the A-65 and the A-75 was to change
either the carb, or the jets, then run at a higher RPM.
Bob
>From: "Barry Davis" <bed(at)mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "piet list"
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: PIET: a-65 to a-75
>Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 21:36:51 -0500
>
>
>Does anyone know the procedure to convert an A-65 to A-75?
>Does a manual exist?
>Any help at all?
>
>Barry Davis
>bed(at)mindspring.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <gyachts(at)kans.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "How to" book sale by EAA |
Thanks for the info Donald, I ordered mine this morning.
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PIET: a-65 to a-75 |
Barry,
I was told that the pistons are different, and you have to check the
connecting rods for an oil hole in the rod bearing ( where it rides on the
crank). The newer ones had the hole, I guess, to take the added pounding.
My mentor told me that if you have to replace pistons anyway, go for the
75's. But to throw away good 65 pistons and put in 75 pistons, that you
won't see that much of a difference.
I got all my Continental parts from a place in California. Can look up the
name. They have a nice parts book covering the A65 and A75. Giving
complete dimensional drawings and weights also. Parts were reasonable and
all in stock.
my two cents
walt
-----------------------------------------------------
Click here for Free Video!!
http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/
-----Original Message-----
From: Barry Davis <bed(at)mindspring.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 9:43 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: PIET: a-65 to a-75
>
>Does anyone know the procedure to convert an A-65 to A-75?
>Does a manual exist?
>Any help at all?
>
>Barry Davis
>bed(at)mindspring.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOEL CARROLL <drcarroll_2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PIET: a-65 to a-75 |
walt, your right. i looked it up and the only
difference in th 65 to 90 hp is con rods, compresion
ratio and hp quoted at rpm. what was the address of
that placve in CA? thanks jkc.
--- walter evans wrote:
>
>
> Barry,
> I was told that the pistons are different, and you
> have to check the
> connecting rods for an oil hole in the rod bearing (
> where it rides on the
> crank). The newer ones had the hole, I guess, to
> take the added pounding.
> My mentor told me that if you have to replace
> pistons anyway, go for the
> 75's. But to throw away good 65 pistons and put in
> 75 pistons, that you
> won't see that much of a difference.
> I got all my Continental parts from a place in
> California. Can look up the
> name. They have a nice parts book covering the A65
> and A75. Giving
> complete dimensional drawings and weights also.
> Parts were reasonable and
> all in stock.
> my two cents
> walt
>
-----------------------------------------------------
> Click here for Free Video!!
> http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Barry Davis <bed(at)mindspring.com>
> To: piet list
> Date: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 9:43 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: PIET: a-65 to a-75
>
>
>
> >
> >Does anyone know the procedure to convert an A-65
> to A-75?
> >Does a manual exist?
> >Any help at all?
> >
> >Barry Davis
> >bed(at)mindspring.com
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PIET: a-65 to a-75 |
Joel,
It's Fresno Airparts co. , in California.
209-237-4863 phone
209-237-2703 fax
Got ahold of a Trade-a-Plane, and full page ad is on pg.#3 . The ad lists
just about anything you need, parts wise. The "parts and maint. manual"
was $17.50, and you can completely rebuild your engine from this. Dated
3/'44 but it's new.
People at Fresno were very easy to talk to.
walt
-----------------------------------------------------
Click here for Free Video!!
http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/
-----Original Message-----
From: JOEL CARROLL <drcarroll_2000(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Thursday, March 30, 2000 5:54 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: PIET: a-65 to a-75
>
>walt, your right. i looked it up and the only
>difference in th 65 to 90 hp is con rods, compresion
>ratio and hp quoted at rpm. what was the address of
>that placve in CA? thanks jkc.
>
>--- walter evans wrote:
>>
>>
>> Barry,
>> I was told that the pistons are different, and you
>> have to check the
>> connecting rods for an oil hole in the rod bearing (
>> where it rides on the
>> crank). The newer ones had the hole, I guess, to
>> take the added pounding.
>> My mentor told me that if you have to replace
>> pistons anyway, go for the
>> 75's. But to throw away good 65 pistons and put in
>> 75 pistons, that you
>> won't see that much of a difference.
>> I got all my Continental parts from a place in
>> California. Can look up the
>> name. They have a nice parts book covering the A65
>> and A75. Giving
>> complete dimensional drawings and weights also.
>> Parts were reasonable and
>> all in stock.
>> my two cents
>> walt
>>
>-----------------------------------------------------
>> Click here for Free Video!!
>> http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Barry Davis <bed(at)mindspring.com>
>> To: piet list
>> Date: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 9:43 PM
>> Subject: Pietenpol-List: PIET: a-65 to a-75
>>
>>
>>
>> >
>> >Does anyone know the procedure to convert an A-65
>> to A-75?
>> >Does a manual exist?
>> >Any help at all?
>> >
>> >Barry Davis
>> >bed(at)mindspring.com
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> through
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/archives
>> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>> Matronics!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOEL CARROLL <drcarroll_2000(at)yahoo.com> |
walter thank you for the info
--- walter evans wrote:
>
>
> Joel,
> It's Fresno Airparts co. , in California.
> 209-237-4863 phone
> 209-237-2703 fax
> Got ahold of a Trade-a-Plane, and full page ad is on
> pg.#3 . The ad lists
> just about anything you need, parts wise. The
> "parts and maint. manual"
> was $17.50, and you can completely rebuild your
> engine from this. Dated
> 3/'44 but it's new.
> People at Fresno were very easy to talk to.
> walt
>
-----------------------------------------------------
> Click here for Free Video!!
> http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: JOEL CARROLL <drcarroll_2000(at)yahoo.com>
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>
> Date: Thursday, March 30, 2000 5:54 PM
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: PIET: a-65 to a-75
>
>
>
> >
> >walt, your right. i looked it up and the only
> >difference in th 65 to 90 hp is con rods,
> compresion
> >ratio and hp quoted at rpm. what was the address of
> >that placve in CA? thanks jkc.
> >
> >--- walter evans wrote:
> evans"
> >>
> >>
> >> Barry,
> >> I was told that the pistons are different, and
> you
> >> have to check the
> >> connecting rods for an oil hole in the rod
> bearing (
> >> where it rides on the
> >> crank). The newer ones had the hole, I guess,
> to
> >> take the added pounding.
> >> My mentor told me that if you have to replace
> >> pistons anyway, go for the
> >> 75's. But to throw away good 65 pistons and put
> in
> >> 75 pistons, that you
> >> won't see that much of a difference.
> >> I got all my Continental parts from a place in
> >> California. Can look up the
> >> name. They have a nice parts book covering the
> A65
> >> and A75. Giving
> >> complete dimensional drawings and weights also.
> >> Parts were reasonable and
> >> all in stock.
> >> my two cents
> >> walt
> >>
>
>-----------------------------------------------------
> >> Click here for Free Video!!
> >> http://www.gohip.com/freevideo/
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Barry Davis <bed(at)mindspring.com>
> >> To: piet list
> >> Date: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 9:43 PM
> >> Subject: Pietenpol-List: PIET: a-65 to a-75
> >>
> >>
> Davis"
> >>
> >> >
> >> >Does anyone know the procedure to convert an
> A-65
> >> to A-75?
> >> >Does a manual exist?
> >> >Any help at all?
> >> >
> >> >Barry Davis
> >> >bed(at)mindspring.com
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> through
> >>
> >> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> >> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >>
> >> Matronics!
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 03/29/00 |
In a message dated 03/30/2000 1:53:49 AM Central Standard Time,
pietenpol-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<<
As I recall, the difference between the A-65 and the A-75 was to change
either the carb, or the jets, then run at a higher RPM.
Bob
>From: "Barry Davis" <bed(at)mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "piet list"
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: PIET: a-65 to a-75
>Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2000 21:36:51 -0500
>
>
>Does anyone know the procedure to convert an A-65 to A-75?
>Does a manual exist?
>Any help at all?
>
>Barry Davis
>bed(at)mindspring.com
> >>
There is (was) a Continental Service Bulletin that covered this subject. I
don't know if it's still available.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | fishin <fishin(at)wwa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A-65 hp increase |
>
> >Does anyone know the procedure to convert an A-65 to A-75?
> >Barry Davis
> >bed(at)mindspring.com
> > >>
Let me quote a couple of paragraphs from the March 1974 issue of Sport
Aviation.
"Let's look at the four cylinders Continentals. P-L-A-N spells horsepower. It
is proportional to the Pressure developed in the cylinders, the Length of the
stroke, the Area of all the piston heads, and the Number of revolutions per
minute. To get an increase in horsepower, one or more of these factors has to
be increased. Since the easiest one is the rpm, it's not surprising how often
the factory has upped the horsepower of it's product by the simple expedient of
changing the nameplate and the main metering jet- and leaving the rest to the
propeller manufacturer.
The only difference between the A-65 and an A-75, aside from squirt holes in
the con rods and a better exhaust valve, is the propeller. Not bigger or
coarser to absorb the greater hp, but smaller and finer to let it rev up.
The only difference between a C-75 an a C-85 is a larger venturi, a larger
metering jet, and a different nameplate. Again the prop maker did all the work.
Now comes the jump from the C-85 to the C-90, and this time Continental
actually did something. They increased the P and the L in the formula and came
up with bigger horses. Now you could swing a bigger prop at the same rpm, or
leave the propeller alone and let the engine turn it faster, and this was o.k.
even with Continental. They changed the nameplate again, and upped the maximum
permissible rpm and gained a little more horsepower in so doing."
sorry for the length of this but I felt it was a pretty good explanation of the
question.
regards
JoeC
Zion, Illinois
NX529PJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "B and V Dearinger" <dearinge(at)iocc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: PIET: a-65 to a-75 |
Best I can remember it is pistons and valves and maybe an oil hole in the
connecting rod for extra oil spray .Some of this may be for the A80.About as
easy to make A80 as an A75.Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Barry Davis <bed(at)mindspring.com>
Date: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 9:33 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: PIET: a-65 to a-75
>
>Does anyone know the procedure to convert an A-65 to A-75?
>Does a manual exist?
>Any help at all?
>
>Barry Davis
>bed(at)mindspring.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Borodent(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Broadhead Motel Rooms |
Can someone give me the name and adress ( towns) of motels near broadhead
Also
Should those of us wishing to attend Broadhead "sign up"?, "anti up"?
Who do we register with?, send registration fees ( if any ) to?
Henry Williams - working on fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Gillespie" <dickmarg(at)peganet.com> |
| Subject: | Date: Mon, 3 Apr 2000 21:49:20 -0400 |
Dear Edna,
That was a great one, I sent that one to a lot of people
thanks marge
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOEL CARROLL <drcarroll_2000(at)yahoo.com> |
hello all:
there have been several queries concerning heads for
model "a" fords. found a source:
6:1 compression,looks stock. $285.00
two plug cylinder head, 6:1 compression $325.00
also has the following
high volume oil pump
oil filter system
camshafts
aluminium side valve cover
crower con rods
two piece alum oil pan
7:1 compression cyl head
4 port ohv head,8:1 comp
Daniel r. Price
7320 Sunbury Rd.
Westerville,OH. 43082-9403
614-891-2882 he works nights!
fax 614-895-8487
best of all email dan4banger(at)aol.com
sase for reply!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Eldredge <steve(at)byu.edu> |
| Subject: | New glues at AS&S |
Just got some info out of Aircraft Spruce's newsletter that might be of
interest, but spendy...
Stevee
Two new wood glue alternatives are now available as substitutes for long
used Aerolite. Penacolite G-1311 and Aerodux 500 Wood Glues are now
available through Aircraft Spruce. Penacolite G-1311 is a two-part
resorcinol-formaldehyde resin adhesive, capable of curing at room
temperature and providing a strong, water-proof bond of utmost durability.
Very resistant to deterioration and disintegration due to aging. Great for
bonding wood, many plastics, natural and synthetic rubbers, primed metals,
and porous materials such as paper, textiles, fiber boards etc. G-1131
contains a filler to prevent shrinkage during drying and preventing
distortion. Requires a workshop working temperature of 70 - 100 Deg. F.
Ideal for warm climates. For cold climates, 59 - 86 Deg. F., Aerodux 500 is
recommended and provides essentially the same bonding characteristics.
Penacolite G-1131 Gallon Kit P/N 02-00004 $109.00
Aerodux 500 Quart Kit P/N 02-00005 $64.00
Aerodux 500 Gallon Kit P/N 02-00006 $179.00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Eldredge <steve(at)byu.edu> |
| Subject: | Cool Web site of Budd Davidson |
For those of you that have read any aviation magazine in the last three
months it is likely you will recognize Budd Davidson's name. He has just
launched his web site with all kinds of pireps and cool stuff. check it out
at
www.airbum.com
Steve E.
________________________________________________________________________________
fly5k(at)listbot.com
Does anyone have a set of full scale drawings of the 1933 Pietenpol metal
parts?? I need the wing (three piece) metal drawings. The metal drawings
for the landing gear. Jes a little help guys!
Steve
Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
GN-1--<(next project).
IHA #6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | fishin <fishin(at)wwa.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Piet drawings. |
you just need to order a set of plans from Don Pietenpol. the metal parts are
drawn full size. not impossible but kinda difficult to build from the
magazine.
Joe
vistin(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a set of full scale drawings of the 1933 Pietenpol metal
> parts?? I need the wing (three piece) metal drawings. The metal drawings
> for the landing gear. Jes a little help guys!
>
> Steve
>
> Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
>
> GN-1--<(next project).
>
> IHA #6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing rib drawings |
| From: | Chris A Tracy <catdesigns(at)juno.com> |
The full size plans I got for the wing rib from Don Pietenpol don't match
the plans. Can I use the full size pattern or should I just plot out the
rib outline my self.
Chris
Sacramento, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Spar spacing |
I took one look at the flying manual and can't
understand how somebody can build an airplane from
that, even my full blown plans are difficult. don't
change the spacing of the spars, everything on the
fuse and landing gear would have to be changed also.
three choices listed with the prefered method first.
1. make the rib to fit.
2. bevel the top of the spar to match the rib angle
3. notch the rib.
--- Jeff Griffin wrote:
>
>
> Hi all!
> I'm using the Flying Manual reprint to build a Sky
> Scout. My problem
> lies in the spacing of the rear spar. If the spar is
> 4.75 inches in
> height it will not fit where the plans place it.
> Should the rear spar be
> moved foward .75" or should the spar be placed as
> shown and made .125"
> shorter to fit between the capstrips? Maybe I
> shouldn't be trying to lay
> everything out on paper first and just build the
> thing.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Jeff
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Conoly" <bconoly(at)surfsouth.com> |
| Subject: | Re: tenpol-List: |
Hello all:
One more time I would like to invite all of you to stop by the work-shops at
Sun N Fun.
We'll be doing a lot of wood construction demonstartions that should be fun
and informative.
About a month ago I posted asking for volunteers. Again, please consider
donating a few hours during your visit - if not with us, in some other
capacity. It takes hundreds of volunteers to pull this annual fiasco off,
we need as much horsepower as possible. Even if you can't volunteer please
check out the workshops (wood in particular) and say hello. Best to all!
And for those who can't make it to SNF...... Na Na NA NA NA NA!!!!!!
:)
Bert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Shoun <wbnb(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Piet drawings. |
Steve,
Small point of caution here: metal fittings made "exactly" to plans
leave very little room for fingers and bolt heads and washers and nuts. You
can do it. Of course you can revert to a former vocabulary and get it done!
Cheers,
Warren
vistin(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a set of full scale drawings of the 1933 Pietenpol metal
> parts?? I need the wing (three piece) metal drawings. The metal drawings
> for the landing gear. Jes a little help guys!
>
> Steve
>
> Steve W - Pietenpol in construction!
>
> GN-1--<(next project).
>
> IHA #6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Piet drawings. |
Steve,
I remember, (I think), reading a comment from an old time builder, that
it is best to build the wooden structure, then adapt the metal fittings to
your own particular situation, as there will be variations from plane to
plane. Make cardboard mock-ups of the fittings, then transfer them to metal
and fabricate fittings from that. This is to avoid fittings that
don't...fit. Makes sense to me, and that's the approach I'm using. Keep us
posted on your results.
Don Cooley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing rib drawings |
use the full size plans, but modify it according to
the coordinates listed on the plan. it doesn't take
much. some full size plans are right on and some are
off. mine was way off. I think that the error is in
the printing process of the template.
--- Chris A Tracy wrote:
>
>
> The full size plans I got for the wing rib from Don
> Pietenpol don't match
> the plans. Can I use the full size pattern or
> should I just plot out the
> rib outline my self.
>
> Chris
> Sacramento, CA
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Krzes" <jkrzes(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing rib drawings |
If you measure 1/4" in (capstrips) from the outside lines of the full size
template, the full spar height should just fit. Error was probably
introduced by merely tracing around a rib. The other problem with the
template (more critical) is the distance between spars.
>
>
>use the full size plans, but modify it according to
>the coordinates listed on the plan. it doesn't take
>much. some full size plans are right on and some are
>off. mine was way off. I think that the error is in
>the printing process of the template.
>
>--- Chris A Tracy wrote:
> >
> > The full size plans I got for the wing rib from Don
> > Pietenpol don't match
> > the plans. Can I use the full size pattern or
> > should I just plot out the
> > rib outline my self.
> >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Loar" <skycarl(at)megsinet.net> |
I noticed that in all the plans and manual that I got from Don Pietenpol,
there isn't any reference on how to lay out the rudder control cables
thru the fuse to the rudder. Am I just missing it or are we to rig it
anyway we can. The elevator and aileron controls seem complete
but nothing on the rudder.
thanks,
Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal(at)startribune.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Controls |
It's builders discretion. Use fairleads where needed.
Greg Cardinal
>>> "Carl Loar" 04/06 12:35 PM >>>
I noticed that in all the plans and manual that I got from Don Pietenpol,
there isn't any reference on how to lay out the rudder control cables
thru the fuse to the rudder. Am I just missing it or are we to rig it
anyway we can. The elevator and aileron controls seem complete
but nothing on the rudder.
thanks,
Carl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Conoly" <bconoly(at)surfsouth.com> |
| Subject: | |