Pietenpol-Archive.digest.vol-ct
August 09, 2002 - August 30, 2002
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
________________________________________________________________________________
Kip,
I have not done the testing yet, but will in the next few weeks. Too
busy with family and vacation (no complaints!)
I'll post results as soon as the testing is done.
Kirk
>List,
>Does anyone recall who was going to do those lab tests on latex paint
samples? I've been wondering whatever happened to that. This issue could
sure use some 'closure'.
>We keep going around & around about what primers to use (gray, black,
whatever)?, do they really block UV?, can you get aluminum powder & put it
in white latex to make a true aluminum primer?, etc, etc. but none of us
have any hard data.
Just a half-dozen reports on planes that have been around for a number of
years & are apparently OK, and one article (KitPlanes, Sept. 1997) where
the guy did some serious testing of his work by putting test panels out in
the weather for a couple of years. I'd sure like to save some $ by using
latex, but the jury still seems to be out, far as I can tell....
Cheers!
Kip Gardner
426 Schneider St. SE
North Canton, OH 44720
(330) 494-1775
--
Kirk Huizenga and Bryan Eastep's Aircamper and Corvair Project
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList.cfm?Menu=PhotoGallery
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Joe Krzes" <jkrzes(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wedges was:Dammits |
I just used some of the little scraps from the capstrips since they are the
correct width, made a little jig for the bandsaw with the correct angle and
a stop. Cut a whole baggie full in just a few minutes.
Spent a little time of the first one, but after I got the jig just right, I
had to remind myself to pay attention for safety.
I do have one question... Do you glue the wedges on the ribs prior to
assembling the wing, or after you have the ribs on the spars?
Joe
>From: "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com>
>
>How hard is it really to cut one long piece of wedge-shaped wood and then
>slice off 1/4" pieces as needed and slip them under the rib with a dab of
>glue? We are talking about all kinds of problems beveling the spar causes
>and the fixes necessary, like re-making the spar fittings to the right
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lshutks(at)webtv.net (Leon Stefan) |
Gene: I posed the question about the wedges yesterday. It wouldn't be a
problem to cut long wedge strips if I had the wood on hand to do it.I
bought a wood kit from Gene Peters where all of the pieces are cut and
milled pretty close to exact demension with only small pieces left over
after cutting to proper length. they are short enough to be worrysome
(fingers!) when cutting on a table saw. The spars came 'flat top' so
beveling is out of the question any way. I guess I'l have to order one
of those spruce grab bags. Thanks for the tips. Leon S. Do ot archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
Leon
You don't have to use spruce for the wedges, just stop
at a local cabinet shop, or wood supply and pick up
some pine scraps, or anything light.
also a tip for crossing cutting small pieces on a
tablesaw, get an 1/8" piece of plexiglass about 1.5 ft
square and make a sliding table.fasten two strips of
oak underneath of it that fit into the two mitre slots
on your saw. and fasten another strip on top square to
the blade about 2/3 of the way back from the front
edge, the full width of the plexiglass. turn your saw
on, push the plex table(which is now fit into the
mitre slots) into the saw untill the blade reaches the
strip (fence) that you put on top. now you can cut off
tiny tiny pieces without losing fingers and without
tiny pieces flying all over the shop. you can also
make a stop that clamps onto the sliding table so that
you can make repetitive cuts accurately to plus or
minus .005.
Del
--- Leon Stefan wrote:
> lshutks(at)webtv.net (Leon Stefan)
>
> Gene: I posed the question about the wedges
> yesterday. It wouldn't be a
> problem to cut long wedge strips if I had the wood
> on hand to do it.I
> bought a wood kit from Gene Peters where all of the
> pieces are cut and
> milled pretty close to exact demension with only
> small pieces left over
> after cutting to proper length. they are short
> enough to be worrysome
> (fingers!) when cutting on a table saw. The spars
> came 'flat top' so
> beveling is out of the question any way. I guess I'l
> have to order one
> of those spruce grab bags. Thanks for the tips. Leon
> S. Do ot archive
>
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 08/08/02 |
| From: | rhartwig11(at)juno.com |
Leon,
There are a lot of good ideas for filling the space between the top of
the spar and the rib cap strip, but.....is there a need to fill that
space???? Bernard filled this space because he was nailing down through
the cap strip into the top of the spar. Today we nail through the
upright into side of the spar and many builders also glue this upright to
the spar. "Because it's there!" does not seem to be a good reason for
extra weight and work. Does anyone know a reason for filling this space?
Dick Hartwig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hubbard, Eugene" <ehubbard(at)titan.com> |
| Subject: | Wedges was:Dammits |
I put the ribs on the spar and checked the wedges for fit while still dry,
then slipped the rib to the side an inch or so and glued everything up. Any
little errors in the rib construction shows up in the height of the wedges,
so be prepared to sand a couple of them before you cover them with glue.
Gene
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Krzes [mailto:jkrzes(at)hotmail.com]
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wedges was:Dammits
I just used some of the little scraps from the capstrips since they are the
correct width, made a little jig for the bandsaw with the correct angle and
a stop. Cut a whole baggie full in just a few minutes.
Spent a little time of the first one, but after I got the jig just right, I
had to remind myself to pay attention for safety.
I do have one question... Do you glue the wedges on the ribs prior to
assembling the wing, or after you have the ribs on the spars?
Joe
>From: "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com>
>
>How hard is it really to cut one long piece of wedge-shaped wood and then
>slice off 1/4" pieces as needed and slip them under the rib with a dab of
>glue? We are talking about all kinds of problems beveling the spar causes
>and the fixes necessary, like re-making the spar fittings to the right
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skycarl" <skycarl(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 08/08/02 |
I believe in the piet manual that Don Pietenpol sells along with the plans,
the wedges are mentioned and they were manditory because of the strength
factor.
I found that Wicks is a little faster than AS&S when it comes to spruce. I
use to get my capstrips within a few days and the cost was reasonable. One
six foot piece should cover the wedge problem and you would know that it was
done per the plans. Just a thought.
Carl L.
----- Original Message -----
From: <rhartwig11(at)juno.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 08/08/02
>
> Leon,
> There are a lot of good ideas for filling the space between the top of
> the spar and the rib cap strip, but.....is there a need to fill that
> space???? Bernard filled this space because he was nailing down through
> the cap strip into the top of the spar. Today we nail through the
> upright into side of the spar and many builders also glue this upright to
> the spar. "Because it's there!" does not seem to be a good reason for
> extra weight and work. Does anyone know a reason for filling this space?
> Dick Hartwig
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Brusilow" <mb-albany(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fabric testing |
This is how I did it:
Re latex paint:
1) I used Sherman Willams products,
varnish, reducer & color & aircraft silver paste
2) Brush on two cross coats of varnish. Sand between coats & don't spare
the
tack rag.
3) mix silver paste (the quantity is on the can ) with 1/2 pint reducer.
Dump that into the varnish can, & spray one cross coat. Sand & tack rag.
I
sprayed the silver ony on the top of the wing. Also I did not silver the
bottom of the fuselage.
4) two cross coats of color & you are done.
Caution-varnish will run, so apply it to a horizontal surface.
Good luck, but remember I did this 14 years ago, so I hope I got it
right.
Suggest you do a test piece first.
Mike B Piet N 687MB ( Mr Sam )
----- Original Message -----
From: The Huizenga's
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 9:11 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fabric testing
<kirkh@unique-software.com>
Kip,
I have not done the testing yet, but will in the next few weeks. Too
busy with family and vacation (no complaints!)
I'll post results as soon as the testing is done.
Kirk
>List,
>Does anyone recall who was going to do those lab tests on latex paint
samples? I've been wondering whatever happened to that. This issue
could
sure use some 'closure'.
>We keep going around & around about what primers to use (gray, black,
whatever)?, do they really block UV?, can you get aluminum powder &
put it
in white latex to make a true aluminum primer?, etc, etc. but none of
us
have any hard data.
Just a half-dozen reports on planes that have been around for a number
of
years & are apparently OK, and one article (KitPlanes, Sept. 1997)
where
the guy did some serious testing of his work by putting test panels
out in
the weather for a couple of years. I'd sure like to save some $ by
using
latex, but the jury still seems to be out, far as I can tell....
Cheers!
Kip Gardner
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Woods |
| From: | "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu> |
I used rough sawn lumber and all my boards wer 12' something. I scarfed
all four longerons. My Spars came from the same materal but I simply
made a 4' center section to make up the difference for 12' wing panels
without scarf joints.
Steve E. flying every morning this week so far!
-----Original Message-----
From: catdesigns(at)juno.com [mailto:catdesigns(at)juno.com]
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Alternate Woods
Its acceptable to scarf in a new section of wood when repairing damaged
longerons. Also its also acceptable to substitute laminated spars for
solid spars. So it would seem to me that it would be safe if not
stronger to laminate longerons. I would be tempted to do it in 3
laminations, staggering the scarf joints in each lamination so the scarf
joints dont line up. Theoretically it shouldnt make a difference if the
laminations are in the front or tail but I would be tempted to put them
upfront where the plywood will be on two sides of the joint. But I
wouldnt put them any where a fitting will be installed. Laminating would
also help you form the curved lower longeron because DF is supposed be
more difficult to bend. Steve "built-on-a-very-tight-budget" Eldrige
built his Air Camper out of DF, I think he used flooring as well, and
might have better suggestions on using this wood.
Chris
Sacramento, CA
Pietenpol-List message posted by: steamlaunch(at)softhome.net
Why would one want to laminate the lower longerons? Can anyine tell me
what
the longest 1x1 longeron is in the long version of the Piet?
FOund some wonderful flat grain 18 ring/inch T&G Doug Fir Flooring Looks
like I could get three 1x1 out of each but they are only 12'
=
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Homebuilt forum and Poly Fiber |
| From: | "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu> |
I used flat black SW latex directly over the fabric after stitching and
tapes. Then flat white over that for light colored areas and a 50/50
mix of flat white and black for the areas getting dark colors. 2-3
coats of color and shazam.... Working well for over 5 years.
Steve E.
-----Original Message-----
From: Richard Navratril [mailto:horzpool(at)goldengate.net]
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Homebuilt forum and Poly Fiber
Matt
I used 2 coats of Poly brush before painting as the manual recommends.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: <steamlaunch(at)softhome.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Homebuilt forum and Poly Fiber
>
> Richard What is under the Latex?
>
> Matt
>
> Richard Navratril writes:
>
> >
> > I agree with Carl. I brushed on the first two coats of latex and
wet
> > sanded, then rolled on coats wet sanding between each coat now I'll
be
> > spraying on the last. I will flip the wing over and use the sprayer
on
the
> > top side. Using Sherwin Williams best.
> > Dick
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "skycarl" <skycarl(at)megsinet.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Homebuilt forum and Poly Fiber
> >
> >
> >>
> >> DJ,,, In the for what its worth dept.. Guys on here have had their
latex
> >> paint jobs for over 10 years and still going strong. Check out the
> > archives.
> >> I have brushed, rolled and now sprayed the latex on mine and I wish
I
had
> >> sprayed from the beginning.
> >> I have been using sher-will paint and I feel the brushing of the
first
> > coat
> >> and spraying the rest is the best technique for me.
> >> Carl L. building longer than he thought he would be ;)
> >>
> >> ----- Original Message -----
> >> From: DJ Vegh <aircamper(at)imagedv.com>
> >> To:
> >> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Homebuilt forum and Poly Fiber
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> > Just a note to those that may be interested,
> >> >
> >> > There's a new forum for "Homebuilts/Kitplanes" located at The
Hobby
> >> > Forum site. It's new and traffic is low, but maybe you might wish
to
> >> > stop by sometime and see if any topics pick your interest.... It
> >> > located here:
> >> >
> >> >
http://www.thehobbyforum.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=170
> >> >
> >> > On another note....... Whats the general concensus on Latex vs.
Polytone
> >> > finish on Poly Fiber. I visited a friend today who just
finished
> >> > painting his Aeronca Champ wings with Poly-Tone and the finish is
of
> >> > course beautiful. However, it is also very expensive. He said
he
used
> >> > about 6 gallons just on the wings.
> >> >
> >> > I've been hearing about the latex method and I think at one point
there
> >> > was some discussion about it but I never really rememeber there
being
> >> > strong opinion against it. I'd sure like to save an easy $1800
in
paint
> >> > and latex sounds good, but not at the expense of safety.
> >> >
> >> > DJ
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > This email has been scanned for known viruses and made safe for
viewing
> > by
> >> Half Price Hosting, a leading email and web hosting provider. For
more
> >> information on an anti-virus email solution, visit
> >> <http://www.halfpricehosting.com/av.asp>.
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
=
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lshutks(at)webtv.net (Leon Stefan) |
Del: Thanks for the tip on using alternate for these wedges. That was
so simple i never thought f it. I am always making things harder than
they have to be. Dick H. ...."are these wedges really needed"? Thats
an interesting question. BHP used no verticals at the spars so he had to
wedge the ribs to mount the ribs to the spars. In his case, yes it would
add the needed strength. And its the only way he had to fit the rib caps
to the spar top.I, like most of us have put a vertical 'stick' at the
spar opening. By gluing the vertical to the face of the spar I would
think you would have all the strength needed without the wedges. I'm no
engineer, so I am going to use the wedges. (like wearing a belt along
with suspenders) Gene H. ..."imperfections in your ribs will show, so
be prepared to sand." I noticed that in making the 4 wedges used in my
center section. The front left wedge fit tight but was loose in the
front right position, etc. This what got me thinking in the first place
that there had to be an easier way. It looks like every wedge would need
to be custom made and custom fitted to a specific location. that could
take weeks! ah well, Its all part of the game. I don't mind doing stuff
as long as it don't end up in the dammit box. Thanks. Leon S. in rainy
KS. where it is raining for the first time since mid May.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ANNCARLEK(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 08/08/02 |
The reason to laminate the lower longerons is that then theey are a joy to
work with, they are in the proper curvature, and the internal stresses are
almost non-existant. Besides, if one of the laminations had a compressive
fracture (hard to see) it really wouldn't matter, the other laminations are
plenty strong enough to carry their loads.
I didn't use any material longer than 12', mostly I have used 8'. I cut a 1
in 12 bevel and splice with no worries about strength. The joints are
stronger than the rest of the wood.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com> |
It doesn't have to be any particular kind of wood . . . any wood will do.
Just cut a two ro three foot length with a bevel on it and start slicing. I
wouldn't wait for a grab bag of spruce, I'd go to Home Depot and find any
piece of good looking spruce or fir.
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: Leon Stefan <lshutks(at)webtv.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wedges
>
> Gene: I posed the question about the wedges yesterday. It wouldn't be a
> problem to cut long wedge strips if I had the wood on hand to do it.I
> bought a wood kit from Gene Peters where all of the pieces are cut and
> milled pretty close to exact demension with only small pieces left over
> after cutting to proper length. they are short enough to be worrysome
> (fingers!) when cutting on a table saw. The spars came 'flat top' so
> beveling is out of the question any way. I guess I'l have to order one
> of those spruce grab bags. Thanks for the tips. Leon S. Do ot archive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Naiva <steamlaunch(at)softhome.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Built up Spar |
Hello,
Has anyone ever used a built up spar with a plywood web on a piet? Would it still
be
considered a piet. BP laminated Spars out of dimensional wood. This would merely
be a
variation of the theme.
Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 8/9/02 10:05:44 AM Central Daylight Time,
rhartwig11(at)juno.com writes:
<< Today we nail through the
upright into side of the spar and many builders also glue this upright to
the spar. >>
That's what I did.
Chuck Gantzer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clif <cdawson5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Built up Spar |
The sport aviation assoc. has sent a representative to England
to see what they're doing and come to an agreement to share
info by exchanging articles from the respective magazines.
One of these concerns the "Wills spar" , a built up I beam,
ply web and cap assy. for the peitenpol. There's also a light
ply D tube leading edge to compliment the spars.
Their governing body is the Popular Flying Association.
www.pfa.org-uk
Keep a weather eye out on Sport Fly, Experimenter and
To Fly. Hopefully we'll see this stuff appearing soon.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Naiva" <steamlaunch(at)softhome.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Built up Spar
>
> Hello,
>
> Has anyone ever used a built up spar with a plywood web on a piet? Would
it still be
> considered a piet. BP laminated Spars out of dimensional wood. This would
merely be a
> variation of the theme.
>
> Matt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 22 Msgs - 08/09/02 |
| From: | rhartwig11(at)juno.com |
One last note on rib to spar wedges:
From Grant McClaren's A Pietenpol Notebook
" Wedges between ribs/spar - In 1969 BHP said 'We now nail the ribs to
the side of the spar and do not use wedges.' (BPAN 6, p1)
However, Don Pietenpol said in Pietenpol Manual 'Wedges are placed only
at the locations where the ribs intersect with the spar.' "
Dick Hartwig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 08/08/02 |
In my opinion, if you have an upright on each side of the spar and you glue
the uprights to the spar so as to create a loadbearing joint with the lift
forces transferred from the ribs to the spar in shear, then the wedges at
the top of the spar are not required. this is how all the other aircraft
are done.
Chris bobka
Tech Counselor
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
rhartwig11(at)juno.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 08/08/02
Leon,
There are a lot of good ideas for filling the space between the top of
the spar and the rib cap strip, but.....is there a need to fill that
space???? Bernard filled this space because he was nailing down through
the cap strip into the top of the spar. Today we nail through the
upright into side of the spar and many builders also glue this upright to
the spar. "Because it's there!" does not seem to be a good reason for
extra weight and work. Does anyone know a reason for filling this space?
Dick Hartwig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ANNCARLEK(at)aol.com |
Re the Gross Allowable Weight: The 1932 Manual lists this as 1080 #(maximum
load lifted). I'm beginning some stress calculations, and plan to use this
number, and the FAA spec. of 4.4 g positive, and .4 X this number for
negative load, or 1.76g.
hope to keep you posted, Anncarlek
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LAWRENCE WILLIAMS" <lnawms(at)msn.com> |
Here are some musings that come to me as I read the postings from the past several
days...............
What is the purpose of a wing rib? Assuming that it is built rigidly enough to
hold it's intended form, isn't it's main function to hold two pieces of fabric
apart in a particular shape that will allow flight? (Nod your head up and down)
IF it is stabilized from shifting vertically and laterally it can do an admirable
job. So, what forces would act to shift it from it's planned position? Laterally..........not
much. Vertically......sure, because of the
pressure on the BOTTOM of the airfoil.
The stabilization would appear to be handled very well in a vertical plane by
the top and bottom rib strips resting against the top and bottom of the spar.
Shifting (if any) in a lateral plane is easily taken care of by a spot or two
of glue wherever a spar/rib junction can be found. Rib stitching probably does
as good a job at this, too even though that's not the intended purpose.
Back now to the wedgies, er wedges (sorry). If you plan to stabilize your ribs
laterally by putting a nail from the top and bottom of the rib into the spar (VERY
bad idea) it would be well if you used a wedge to fill the space in the top
so as not to smash the top rib cap when you drive the
nail home.
That's the reason for the wedgies, NOT because of any structural considerations,
at least not in the Cherry Grove Missile design.
Now can we please find something else to dwell on?
I might be verbose but I'm humble.......and thick skinned. Blaze away!
Larry
"The Piet is slow but the sky is patient"
(a great quote from a famed Piet pilot)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
"Pietenpol-List Digest Server"
| Subject: | Re: Wedgies, et al |
----- Original Message -----
From: "LAWRENCE WILLIAMS" <lnawms(at)msn.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wedgies, et al
Larry,
I'm not an engineer, but got to disagree. It's the low pressure on the top
of the wing that pulls you up. If you ever flew close to a fabric plane
over top, you'll see the fabric bulging up between each rib, trying to tear
the top of the wing off.
I was always taught that on a larger plane, like 172, with a very light
load, the bottom of the wing is actually flying in a negative insodence
to horz, cause the lift of the top of the wing exceeds the weight it's
carrying..
Thats why the old Quicksilver MX only has a top, not a bottom to it's wing.
walt
>
> IF it is stabilized from shifting vertically and laterally it can do an a> dmirable
job. So, what forces would act to shift it from it's planned pos> ition?
Laterally..........not much. Vertically......sure, because of the
> pressure on the BOTTOM of the airfoil.
>
>> Larry
>
> "The Piet is slow but the sky is patient"
> (a great quote from a famed Piet pilot)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
"piet discussion"
| Subject: | a nifty scissor trick |
You know how you keep your special fabric scissors for only one thing?
but after a while they start to snag when pushing through the fabric?
Was helping a friend cover a Kolb yesterday when this happened. then
another friend popped up with this trick.
get a piece of aluminum foil from the kitchen and slice through it about
8 times, they come back like new.
amazing!
walt
NX140DL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lshutks(at)webtv.net (Leon Stefan) |
| Subject: | Kerri Ann P. Plans |
Kip: Actually, it was me who put the Price door in the font cockpit.
Its neat looking. The other fella was wanting more info. on it from me.
I wouldn't tell you "hell no" on the door, but if I had it to do over
again I probably wouldn't install it. I did it out of boredom and
wanting to work on the Piet. when I was at a stand still in
construction. I moved 5 years ago into a rent house with the perfect
basement for airplane building, except the stairway makes a 90 deg. turn
at the top. This limites the size of items built to a size that I can
get out of the basement. My fus. sides came out of the basement with a
lot of bowing and flexing. I just planned to build everything I could,
and maybe I would be in my own place place soon and continue building.
I'm still in the rent house, but am building in the living room. Any
way, I put the door in just to be doing something. The reasons I really
don't need it: Weight, 98% of my flying is alone, I'm going to set my
wing 2'' higher than the plans, I'm going t use the Model A engine, so I
will probably nervous about carrying passengers until I get a LOT of
hrs. on it. Any one I give a ride to will just have to work a little
harder to get in. It will make his ride more enjoyable. I bought all of
Price's plans, but am only going to use the his/her fuel tank,and piano
hinge ailerons. I already had parts made for the Kapler center section.
Price's tail wheel involved a lot of fabrication and welding. I could do
it now, but back then I took the easy way and used the leaf spring set
up. Price's plans are excellent, but kind of a lot to them. Not hard to
do, but if you use all of his plans your going to be heavy. Kerri Ann
told me his Air Camper was around 735 lbs. That's more weight than I
want. Good luck with your Piet. Leon S
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | spar wedges----exactly, Gene !!!! |
Gene R. wrote this:
>How hard is it really to cut one long piece of wedge-shaped wood and then
>slice off 1/4" pieces as needed and slip them under the rib with a dab of
>glue?
AMEN, Gene. This was SO easy and didn't entail all the other BS with the
other options. I think it took me about one hour per wing to cut and glue
in these wedges.
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Yotz" <greg(at)gregyotz.com> |
| Subject: | Covering Systems |
Has anyone used the HIPEC system of covering? How did it compare to the
Polyfiber system?? In cost, finish and application time? I'm ready to
cover and I'm trying to make a decision on a system. I want a good
finish with the lowest cost and shortest time.(I want it all.)
The fact that they claim you don't have to rib stitch is attractive.
Greg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craigo" <craigwilcox(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Covering Systems |
On Mon, 12 August 2002, "Greg Yotz" wrote:
> The fact that they claim you don't have to rib stitch
> is attractive.
Greg -
NOT ribstitching (lacing) is a ticket to disaster, no
metter whose system you are using. Do not trust fabric
adhesives - there is a lot of lift (suction) operating
on the top of that big wing, and it will pull most
adhesives loose over time. Rib lacing amounts to about
14 laces per rib, and takes about 3 hr. per wing - do
it for peace of mind if nothing else.
Craig
Craig
Lake Worth, FL
Bakeng Duce NX96CW
PeoplePC: It's for people. And it's just smart.
http://www.peoplepc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Waytogopiet(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Covering Systems |
In a message dated 8/12/2002 12:14:48 PM Central Standard Time,
greg(at)gregyotz.com writes:
> The fact that they claim you don't have to rib stitch is attractive.
>
Greg....Craig is absolutely right. DO NOT buy that "no- rib- stitch baloney"
That's a sales pitch to sell their product. They make that statement without
even knowing what plane you plan to cover !! Don't even think of going
there. Learn to rib stitch. There's nothing tough about it. You will not be
saving anything but your butt !!
Don Hicks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LAWRENCE WILLIAMS" <lnawms(at)msn.com> |
IF a rib is built rigidly enough and the fabric is stitched tightly, does the rib
know if it's being pushed up from the bottom or being sucked up
from the top???
Never mind. I guess you'd have to ask a rib.
Just seems to me that the bottom strip is doing the load-carrying, hence
the push (or lift) would be felt on the bottom. The truss construction would distribute
the load throughout the rib so the bottom strip wouldn't buckle. Hm-m-m-m-m
gotta go find a rib to talk to. Maybe a prop, too.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Covering Systems |
I have a strong opinion about rib stitching....
I lost a friend and his 16 yr old daughter this past June due to the
fabric not being stitched to the wing. Think about it.... you've got
about 1200lbs of pull trying to rip that fabric right off the top of the
wing... over time it WILL come loose.
Once that happens it's all over..... If you absolutley feel you need
to avoid the rib stitching, then you need to get a BRS to save your ass
when the wing lets loose. If my friend Joe had rib stitched the wings
like we told him to do, he may be here today.
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Waytogopiet(at)aol.com
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Covering Systems
In a message dated 8/12/2002 12:14:48 PM Central Standard Time,
greg(at)gregyotz.com writes:
> The fact that they claim you don't have to rib stitch is attractive.
>
Greg....Craig is absolutely right. DO NOT buy that "no- rib- stitch
baloney"
That's a sales pitch to sell their product. They make that statement
without
even knowing what plane you plan to cover !! Don't even think of
going
there. Learn to rib stitch. There's nothing tough about it. You will
not be
saving anything but your butt !!
Don Hicks
=
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hubbard, Eugene" <ehubbard(at)titan.com> |
Answer: yes. It is standard stress analysis. You will _never_ get the
fabric stretched tight enough to keep the entire rib in compression. It's
just fabric, not steel bands. Without rib stitching, the uprights are going
to be in tension. With rib stitching, it is the lacing cord that keeps the
rib structure in compression and transfers the load to the bottom capstrip.
Gene Hubbard
San Diego
-----Original Message-----
From: LAWRENCE WILLIAMS [mailto:lnawms(at)msn.com]
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wedgies
IF a rib is built rigidly enough and the fabric is stitched tightly, does the rib
know if it's being pushed up from the bottom or being sucked up
from the top???
Never mind. I guess you'd have to ask a rib.
Just seems to me that the bottom strip is doing the load-carrying, hence
the push (or lift) would be felt on the bottom. The truss construction would distribute
the load throughout the rib so the bottom strip wouldn't buckle. Hm-m-m-m-m
gotta go find a rib to talk to. Maybe a prop, too.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey Wilcox" <craigwilcox(at)peoplepc.com> |
>
> IF a rib is built rigidly enough and the fabric is stitched tightly, does> the
rib know if it's being pushed up from the bottom or being sucked up
> from the top???
>
> Never mind. I guess you'd have to ask a rib.
>
> Just seems to me that the bottom strip is doing the load-carrying, hence
> the push (or lift) would be felt on the bottom. The truss construction wo> uld
distribute the load throughout the rib so the bottom strip wouldn't b> uckle.
Hm-m-m-m-m gotta go find a rib to talk to. Maybe a prop, too.
>
> Larry
Larry - good theory, if you are working with a solid. But fabric wings, or
aluminum for that matter, are not solid - they flex. And if even aluminum
flexes enough that it needs to be riveted to the wing, think how important
it is for fabric to be laced down!
I know, we all fly high wing airplanes, and we can see how the air pushes
the bottom fabric. Wings don't fly well at negative angles of attack, so
there must be something to that "wind beneath my wings" bit. But, were you
to fly in one of the fabric covered low wing airplanes (I have in mind one
of the P-21 or P-19 AAC trainers), you would be able to see how the suction
above the wing tries to pull the fabric up - and would be convinced that A)
ribs are under tension if B) the covering material is securely fastened.
Also C) - you would be convinced of the value of rib lacing.
Sorry if I'm preaching to the choir, and I don't want to flame anyone. But
I do firmly believe in what I've seen and done - and I believe fully in
lacing the covering to the rib.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wizzard187(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol- crank starters |
Pieters,,, I need some help from some old timers or smart young guys. I
have a A 75 - 9 continental motor which as the unusual starter pad that
takes a 3 notch drive on the surface of a gear. I think they used this
setup on old radials and maybe rangers engines. I was going thru the junk
shop at OshGosh and I found a crank starter built by Eclipes which was a
division of Bendix and thought I had hit gold. I knew it would fit and it
does but IT TURNS THE WRONG WAY. This one turns clock wise from the pilots
view. What I want to know is, can they be reversed or do they build
counter clockwise and clockwise versions or does someone have one to trade.
Any help would be appreciated or information where I can learn more.
Ken Conrad
. Long Grove, Iowa
This is not a centrifucal type but just a side crank and wt is 11 lbs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol- crank starters |
Ken
I have a bunch of stuff related to the -9. Could you send a picture of what
you have?
I have an electric that should fit and a "hummer" starter which I think I
figured out how it works. they are not for sale but maybe we can at least
figure out what you need.
I live in Minneapolis. where is Long Grove. Maybe I could fly down.
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Wizzard187(at)aol.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Pietenpol- crank starters
Pieters,,, I need some help from some old timers or smart young guys. I
have a A 75 - 9 continental motor which as the unusual starter pad that
takes a 3 notch drive on the surface of a gear. I think they used this
setup on old radials and maybe rangers engines. I was going thru the junk
shop at OshGosh and I found a crank starter built by Eclipes which was a
division of Bendix and thought I had hit gold. I knew it would fit and it
does but IT TURNS THE WRONG WAY. This one turns clock wise from the pilots
view. What I want to know is, can they be reversed or do they build
counter clockwise and clockwise versions or does someone have one to trade.
Any help would be appreciated or information where I can learn more.
Ken Conrad
. Long Grove, Iowa
This is not a centrifucal type but just a side crank and wt is 11 lbs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kip & Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kerri Ann P. Plans/ WWII vets - read this |
>
>Kip: Actually, it was me who put the Price door in the font cockpit.
>Its neat looking. The other fella was wanting more info. on it from me.
>I wouldn't tell you "hell no" on the door, but if I had it to do over
>again I probably wouldn't install it. I did it out of boredom and
>wanting to work on the Piet. when I was at a stand still in
>construction.
Leon,
Thanks for the info. Wasn't planning on the tailwheel or the tank, and I'm
still pondering the door - like the idea, don't know if it's worth the
effort. I'm most interested in the 3-piece wing design & the aileron
hinges. I'm going to order plans soon, so wanted to know what someone
thought about them.
The rest of this is NOT really Piet-list relevant - please forgive the
breach of list etiquette - but I found it today on a web site & wanted to
pass it along to any of you WWII vets who might be motivated to do
something. My Dad & Mom are both WWII vets & when I was growing up, they
had a collection of Bill Mauldin's cartoons on their bookshelf that made an
impression on me.
********************************************************************************
From a Bob Greene column in the Chicago Tribune. (I'm probably reprinting
more of this than fair use would
generally allow, but given the particulars, I don't
think anyone will object.)
For those of you too young to recognize the name: Bill
Mauldin, who is now 80 years old, was the finest and most
beloved editorial cartoonist of World War II. An
enlisted man who drew for Stars and Stripes, he was the one who
gave the soldiers hope and sardonic smiles on the
battlefields; Mauldin knew their hearts because he was one of
them. Using his dirty, unshaven, bone-weary
infantrymen characters Willie and Joe as his vehicle, Mauldin let all
those troops know there was someone who understood. A
Mauldin classic from World War II: an exhausted
infantryman standing in front of a table where medals
were being given out, saying: "Just gimme th' aspirin. I
already got a Purple Heart."
Baby-faced and absolutely brilliant, Mauldin became a
national phenomenon. Talk about a boy wonder: By the time
he was 23 years old he had won a Pulitzer Prize, been
featured on the cover of Time magazine and had the
country's No. 1 best-selling book, "Up Front." Yet he
remained the unaffected, bedrock genuine, decent and open
guy ... his fellow soldiers loved him.
* * *
Bill Mauldin needs help.
He suffered terrible burns in a household accident a
while back; his health has deteriorated grievously, and his
cognitive functions are barely working. He lives in a
room in a nursing home in Orange County, Calif., and
sometimes days at a time go by without him saying a
word. He was married three times, but the last one ended in
divorce, and at 80 in the nursing home Mauldin is a
single man.
I spoke with members of his family; they said that,
even though Bill hardly communicates, the one thing that
cheers him up is hearing from World War II guys-- the
men for whom he drew those magnificent cartoons.
Which is not what you might expect. Mauldin was not
one to hold on to the past -- he did not want to be
categorized by the work he did on the battlefields
when he was in his 20s. He went on to have a stellar career in
journalism after the war, winning another Pulitzer in
1959. Many Americans, and I'm one of them, consider the
drawing he did on deadline on the afternoon John F.
Kennedy was assassinated -- the drawing of the Lincoln
Memorial, head in hands, weeping -- to be the single
greatest editorial cartoon in the history of newspapers.
But it's his World War II contemporaries he seems to
need now. The guys for whom -- in the words of Mauldin's
son David -- Mauldin's cartoons "were like water for
men dying of thirst." David Mauldin said his dad needs to hear
that he meant something to those men.
He needs visitors, and he needs cards of
encouragement. I'm not going to print the name of the nursing home, so
that this can be done in a disciplined and scheduled
way. A newspaper colleague in Southern California -- Gordon
Dillow --has done a wonderful job organizing this, and
he will take your cards to the nursing home. You may send
them to Bill Mauldin in care of Dillow at the Orange
County Register, 625 N. Grand Ave., Santa Ana, CA 92701.
What would be even better, for those of you World War
II veterans who are reading these words in California, or
who plan on traveling there soon, would be if you
could pay a visit to Mauldin just to sit with him a while. You can
let me know if you are willing to do this
(bgreene(at)tribune.com), or you can let Gordon Dillow know
(gldillow(at)aol.com).
Bill Mauldin brought hope, and smiles in terrible
hours, to millions of his fellow soldiers. If you were one of them,
and you'd like to repay the favor, this would be the time.
If you know a vet of that generation, please pass this
information along. And if you're not familiar with
Mauldin's work, you ought to look it up. Looks like
Powell's has some copies of his profusely-illustrated
memoirs--Up Front is a recollection of the war from
the perspective of the grunts rather than the generals, and
Back Home tells of the difficulties enlisted men faced
trying to rejoin society afterwards. (If memory serves, the
latter was received with less enthusiasm, revealing,
as it did, some uncomfortable truths Americans didn't
really want to face.) I enjoyed both of these books
immensely.
426 Schneider St. SE
North Canton, OH 44720
(330) 494-1775
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clif <cdawson5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Covering Systems |
Hi Greg, Please go to the archives and check
out "ribstitching". You will find many messages
with compelling reasons to ribstitch.
A couple may even scare you into it.
Ribstitching is just another process in the larger
process of building an antique,nostalgia and
very special airplane.
Tying you to a grand period in history, so to speak.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Yotz" <greg(at)gregyotz.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Covering Systems
>
> Has anyone used the HIPEC system of covering? How did it compare to the
> Polyfiber system?? In cost, finish and application time? I'm ready to
> cover and I'm trying to make a decision on a system. I want a good
> finish with the lowest cost and shortest time.(I want it all.)
>
> The fact that they claim you don't have to rib stitch is attractive.
>
>
> Greg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clif <cdawson5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Kerri Ann P. Plans |
I asked someone near here who is in the final stages
whether he had thought about a door.
His answer," What for, I'm not flying up there."
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leon Stefan" <lshutks(at)webtv.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Kerri Ann P. Plans
>
> Kip: Actually, it was me who put the Price door in the font cockpit.
> Its neat looking. The other fella was wanting more info. on it from me.
> I wouldn't tell you "hell no" on the door, but if I had it to do over
> again I probably wouldn't install it. I did it out of boredom and
> wanting to work on the Piet. when I was at a stand still in
> construction. I moved 5 years ago into a rent house with the perfect
> basement for airplane building, except the stairway makes a 90 deg. turn
> at the top. This limites the size of items built to a size that I can
> get out of the basement. My fus. sides came out of the basement with a
> lot of bowing and flexing. I just planned to build everything I could,
> and maybe I would be in my own place place soon and continue building.
> I'm still in the rent house, but am building in the living room. Any
> way, I put the door in just to be doing something. The reasons I really
> don't need it: Weight, 98% of my flying is alone, I'm going to set my
> wing 2'' higher than the plans, I'm going t use the Model A engine, so I
> will probably nervous about carrying passengers until I get a LOT of
> hrs. on it. Any one I give a ride to will just have to work a little
> harder to get in. It will make his ride more enjoyable. I bought all of
> Price's plans, but am only going to use the his/her fuel tank,and piano
> hinge ailerons. I already had parts made for the Kapler center section.
> Price's tail wheel involved a lot of fabrication and welding. I could do
> it now, but back then I took the easy way and used the leaf spring set
> up. Price's plans are excellent, but kind of a lot to them. Not hard to
> do, but if you use all of his plans your going to be heavy. Kerri Ann
> told me his Air Camper was around 735 lbs. That's more weight than I
> want. Good luck with your Piet. Leon S
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clif <cdawson5854(at)shaw.ca> |
According to my new "Stress without Tears" there is
negative pressure on both the top and bottom ,bulging
the fabric out both ways. It's the difference in these
two pressures which creates lift as it's lower over the
top.
The example used to work it out is a piper cub sized
wing. The force pulling sideways towards the center
of the bulge is 2500 lbs. which gives an outward
pull away from the rib of 290 lbs over the entire rib.
This is not a shear load. My understanding is that
there is much less strength available in a direct pull.
Also, doesn't it make sense that after the stresses of
vibration on this pull from movement through the air
( look at a whipping flag) over the months and years
of flying will begin to pull the fabric away at the edges
which will progress towards the center of the rib from
both sides?
----- Original Message -----
From: "LAWRENCE WILLIAMS" <lnawms(at)msn.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wedgies
>
> IF a rib is built rigidly enough and the fabric is stitched tightly, does> the
rib know if it's being pushed up from the bottom or being sucked up
> from the top???
>
> Never mind. I guess you'd have to ask a rib.
>
> Just seems to me that the bottom strip is doing the load-carrying, hence
> the push (or lift) would be felt on the bottom. The truss construction wo> uld
distribute the load throughout the rib so the bottom strip wouldn't b> uckle.
Hm-m-m-m-m gotta go find a rib to talk to. Maybe a prop, too.
>
> Larry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rib stitching debacle |
C'mon guys, there is no such thing as being "sucked up" from the top of
anything. If something is being "sucked up", it is being pushed up from the
bottom. You do not suck a drink through a straw, you lower the pressure
above and the ambient pressure pushes it up into your mouth. A wing is the
same thing, the pressure is lower on top, so the pressure below pushes it up
(in combination with some other forces). The reason the fabric bows up on
the top is that the wing is not airtight and some of the higher pressure air
gets into the wing and pushes the fabric up between the ribs. The bowing up
of the bottom fabric is not as exaggerated because the pressure differential
above and below the lower fabric is not as great as the top.
As for leaving off the rib stitching, I'd like to build an airplane without
having to put in all those pesky bolts and nuts, too, but you gotta. You
are building a fabric airplane, fabric has to be stitched, you knew that
when you started, get on with it. You want to avoid rib stitching, build an
RV. Rib stitching is actually very easy once you get the hang of it, which
takes about ten minutes (I gotta re-learn it every time I do it).
Gene R
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cockpit mockup / "Wonders of a wood airplane" article |
| From: | "Kent Hallsten" <KHallsten(at)governair.com> |
I am almost complete in building a fuselage mockup from the firewall to the rear
pit. After sitting in a Piet a few weeks ago, I decided it was the next step.
The plane I sat in was quite different from the plans, neither a short nor a long
fuselage, as far as the cockpits go. The front pit could hold Andre the Giant,
and the back was for a child/small adult. I'm starting to think the builder
wanted to fly from the front seat.
On another note, I found this site this morning, Light Miniature Aircraft. They
sell Cub and similar plans. But what caught my eye was this article they have
about wood airplanes. Guess which favorite wood airplane they praise? The article
is from Custom Planes Magazine, April 2002.
http://www.lightminiatureaircraft.com/generic33.html
Kent Hallsten
Governair Corp.
Materials/Purchasing
Ph: (405) 525 - 6546 ext 2221
Fax: (405) 524 - 3418
KHallsten(at)Governair.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Latex House Paint article |
| From: | "Kent Hallsten" <KHallsten(at)governair.com> |
Okay guys, here is a link to an article on paint, from the same Light Miniature
Aircraft website.
http://www.lightminiatureaircraft.com/generic34.html
Kent Hallsten
Governair Corp.
Materials/Purchasing
Ph: (405) 525 - 6546 ext 2221
Fax: (405) 524 - 3418
KHallsten(at)Governair.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | rib stitching debacle |
Look.... No matter if you belong to the "suck" family of theories or
the "push from below" theory... The fact is if you don't stitch the
fabric there will come a day when it will come loose and you will meet
the same demise Joe Carter did.
In Joe's case it took 12 years. His plane was built in '90.
DJ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gene
Rambo
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: rib stitching debacle
C'mon guys, there is no such thing as being "sucked up" from the top of
anything. If something is being "sucked up", it is being pushed up from
the bottom. You do not suck a drink through a straw, you lower the
pressure above and the ambient pressure pushes it up into your mouth. A
wing is the same thing, the pressure is lower on top, so the pressure
below pushes it up (in combination with some other forces). The reason
the fabric bows up on the top is that the wing is not airtight and some
of the higher pressure air gets into the wing and pushes the fabric up
between the ribs. The bowing up of the bottom fabric is not as
exaggerated because the pressure differential above and below the lower
fabric is not as great as the top.
As for leaving off the rib stitching, I'd like to build an airplane
without having to put in all those pesky bolts and nuts, too, but you
gotta. You are building a fabric airplane, fabric has to be stitched,
you knew that when you started, get on with it. You want to avoid rib
stitching, build an RV. Rib stitching is actually very easy once you
get the hang of it, which takes about ten minutes (I gotta re-learn it
every time I do it).
Gene R
=
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wizzard187(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol- crank starters |
Chris, Long Grove is between Clinton and Davenport. Sure would be glad to
have you come down. The fusulage is covered and near Tipton in what used to
be my Mothers chicken house and wings on my farm where I live by Long Grove
about 30 miles away.
I have a grass strip on my farm at Long Grove which is about 8 miles
straight north of the Davenport airport on the south side of the Wapsipicon
river.
If something can work out give me a call at 563 285 4073
I can always pick up up and as retired part tme farmer my
schedule is pretty fexiable now. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Brusilow" <mb-albany(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rib stitching debacle |
----- Original Message -----
From: DJ Vegh
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 10:30 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: rib stitching debacle
Look.... No matter if you belong to the "suck" family of theories or
the "push from below" theory... The fact is if you don't stitch the
fabric there will come a day when it will come loose and you will meet
the same demise Joe Carter did.
In Joe's case it took 12 years. His plane was built in '90.
DJ
----
and you can include Steve Whitman
Mike B Piet N687MB ( Mr Sam )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rib stitching debacle |
No, you can't include Steve Wittman. As I understand it, Steve had plywood
covered wings and ailerons. His problem was that he glued the fabric down
to the plywood with the poly-whatever instead of fabric cement.
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Brusilow <mb-albany(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: rib stitching debacle
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: DJ Vegh
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 10:30 AM
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: rib stitching debacle
>
>
>
>
> Look.... No matter if you belong to the "suck" family of theories or
> the "push from below" theory... The fact is if you don't stitch the
> fabric there will come a day when it will come loose and you will meet
> the same demise Joe Carter did.
>
> In Joe's case it took 12 years. His plane was built in '90.
>
> DJ
>
>
> ----
> and you can include Steve Whitman
>
> Mike B Piet N687MB ( Mr Sam )
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Engelkenjohn <wingding(at)usmo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Kerri Ann P. Plans/ WWII vets - read this |
Kip & Beth Gardner wrote:Thanks for the info. Wasn't planning on the tailwheel
or the
tank, and I'm
> still pondering the door - like the idea, don't know if it's worth the
> effort. I'm most interested in the 3-piece wing design & the aileron
> hinges. I'm going to order plans soon, so wanted to know what someone
> thought about them.
Hi Kip:
I think it is Vi Kapler who has the 3 piece wing and aluminum aileron hinges
which
you mentioned. At least he is where I got mine from. He gave a talk on building
the
piet at Brodhead and was an employee or crony of Bernard Pietenpol. His address
is:
1033 Forest Hill Dr. SW Rochester, MN 55902 and his phone is 507 288- 3322.
I believe it was him who originally designed the 3 piece wing and he sells
the
hinges and he sells an intake manifold for the corvair and a prop hub, although
it
isn't designed to be used with an electric starter as WWs is.
Dennis Engelkenjohn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal(at)startribune.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Built up Spar |
Matt,
I have a good article on designing built up spars. Send an SASE to me
for a copy.
Greg Cardinal
5236 Shoreview Ave. So.
Minneapolis, MN 55417
>>> steamlaunch(at)softhome.net 08/09/02 11:27PM >>>
Hello,
Has anyone ever used a built up spar with a plywood web on a piet? Would
it still be
considered a piet. BP laminated Spars out of dimensional wood. This
would merely be a
variation of the theme.
Matt
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ian Holland" <iholland(at)telusplanet.net> |
Just a quick question for the guys that have done it, or about to.
When and where have you installed the fuel shut off valve from the
center section tank? Is it permissible (wise) to route the fuel line
aft and install the valve where it can be operated from the rear pit?
If the valve is at the tank discharge, what are you using to operate a
90 degree throw valve? I have looked at a bunch of pictures, but
nothing is showing. I am a firm believer in electrics and fuel off if
coming down unplanned. Comments much appreciated!
-=Ian=-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Shut-off |
I have just learned that there is a check valve that
can be installed first at the tank before the valve,
so if there is a forced landing and the fitting breaks
off, the check valve will stop the fuel from flowing.
as william learned will happen, the hard way
Del
--- Ian Holland wrote:
>
>
> Just a quick question for the guys that have done
> it, or about to.
> When and where have you installed the fuel shut off
> valve from the
> center section tank? Is it permissible (wise) to
> route the fuel line
> aft and install the valve where it can be operated
> from the rear pit?
> If the valve is at the tank discharge, what are you
> using to operate a
> 90 degree throw valve? I have looked at a bunch of
> pictures, but
> nothing is showing. I am a firm believer in
> electrics and fuel off if
> coming down unplanned. Comments much appreciated!
>
> -=Ian=-
>
>
>
> Forum -
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brants" <tmbrant(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | jigging fuselage |
I began jigging the fuse sides together on my Piet today. Check,
recheck, double and triple check, square, level, plumb...... No matter
how many times I checked it, it still was right. Then, I bit the bullet
and mixed up some T-88. I have gone with Bill Rewey's suggestion of
glueing up the fuse from the front to the back, leaving the tail section
and a few pieces in front of it off until the end. This way, joining
the tail section can be done by use of a hand-saw and plane. This is
his suggestion he gave to me at Oshkosh. I've seen other people do it
other ways this seemed the most practical for my tools and abilities.
I'm still nervous now that I've committed to glueing it up. Once I had
it jigged I could tell how strong the fuselage was going to be. I'll
give a link to a couple photos sometime soon. I made clamps out of a
scrap piece of pine cut about 1/2" short of the width I was clamping and
then used jig blocks screwed into the ends. Worked really well.
Hope to be finishing main fuse structure in a few weeks.
At Oshkosh I went to a couple of William Wynne's forums. I'm now
convinced that I will be using a corvair motor for power. I've already
started the search for one near minneapolis but haven't been able to
find too many. Any one know of a good source?
Thanks,
Tom Brant, MPLS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: jigging fuselage |
> At Oshkosh I went to a couple of William Wynne's
> forums. I'm now
> convinced that I will be using a corvair motor for
> power. I've already
> started the search for one near minneapolis but
> haven't been able to
> find too many. Any one know of a good source?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom Brant, MPLS
I guess we should put on name tags Tom, I was there
too. if you remember I'm from new richmond wi, 40
miles from you. I have a few leads on vair engines out
here. and if you would liketo stop out anytime, I can
show you my vair, my sonex, and my pietenpol. I'm
putting a vair on both.
Del
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TWINBOOM" <TWINBOOM(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Shut-off |
Ian,
Included is a link I believe from one of the list mebers that moved to
Texas recently? Anyway, follow this link, and look at the pictures regarding
the cockpit. There is a very clear picture of the fuel valve, and in the
third picture down from that, it shows how it is controlled from the rear
cockpit seat by a rotating rod. Hope it helps. If not, drop me a personal
e-mail, and I will send you the pictures. Wonder if this Piet was ever sold?
Can't bark at $6,500.00 bucks for flying Piet eh?
http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/piets3.html
Doug Blackburn
Doug/Elizabeth Blackburn
ArrowBear Lake Ca.
Inland Slope Rebels, Riverside Ca. http://inlandsloperebels.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Shut-off |
In a message dated 8/13/02 10:10:02 PM Central Daylight Time,
iholland(at)telusplanet.net writes:
<< When and where have you installed the fuel shut off valve from the
center section tank? >>
Ian, I used a 1/4" ball valve, on a 90 street el, at the center of the
bottom of the tank. I operate the valve with an aluminum tube, with a 90
bend in the end, just above and in front of the pilot seat. Works really
well. I can send you some pictures direct, if you wish.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | another gear question |
To those of you who have built a spreader bar-type gear, how wide did
you make the gap at the bottom of the side vees? The axle is 1.5" but
you gotta leave some room for shock cords. Also, has anyone put in some
type of protection for the wood to keep the axle from pounding against
it, maybe hardwood shims or something?
Some time back I posted a question regarding a problem I had aligning
the side braces of a straight axle gear. Only one person responded who
knew what I was talking about, and he suggested that I run four strings
from the ash block to the fuselage sides and align the strings. That
worked like a charm, but I do not remember who it was. Please speak up,
whoever you are.
Thanks
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gdascomb(at)aol.com |
Is there any reason why the marine fuel tank(s) sold by Cabelo's could not
be used as a fuselage tank? The below-deck permanent tank shown on pg. 28 of
their catalog looks like the right size for a fuse mount. Any problems with
this?
What is the preferred installation...fuselage or wing tank? Thanks for any
comments.
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
"TWINBOOM" wrote:
>Included is a link I believe from one of the list mebers that moved
>to Texas recently http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/piets3.html
That would be me. Two things to point out are (1) this airplane has a
header tank, which Ian may not be building so wouldn't have the same sort of
setup necessarily, and (2) notice that the fuel valve control rod could be
fitted with a similar operating handle for the front cockpit by simply
welding it on. I would also add that it is very important to placard the
lever operating positions, which this one isn't.
>Wonder if this Piet was ever sold? Can't bark at $6,500.00 bucks
>for flying Piet eh?
As far as I know it's still for sale. But it's a heavy airplane, and needs
to go on a diet.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Vi Kapler's parts |
Dennis Engelkenjohn wrote:
>I believe it was him who originally designed the 3 piece wing and he
>sells the hinges and he sells an intake manifold for the corvair
Does anyone know of any further information on the intake manifold, or in
particular- any pictures of this manifold on a website anywhere? Is it for
the Stromberg carb, or-? If nobody has any other info, I'll get in touch
with Kapler directly.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: fuel shut-off |
| From: | John Hofmann <jhofmann(at)charter.net> |
On 8/14/02 12:29 PM, "Oscar Zuniga" wrote:
>
>> Wonder if this Piet was ever sold? Can't bark at $6,500.00 bucks
>> for flying Piet eh?
>
> As far as I know it's still for sale. But it's a heavy airplane, and needs
> to go on a diet.
Jack Phillips and I ran into a fellow from Iowa at Oshkosh when Jack was
wearing a Piet shirt (I think). He told of buying a Franklin powered Piet
from Oregon that was green and yellow. When we talked to him a bit, both of
us realized this was the aforementioned airplane. Heavy, Franklin engine and
needed a little TLC. He said he is having a blast with it.
Jack, do you remember anything else? I think I got it right.
TakeCare,
-john-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Engelkenjohn <wingding(at)usmo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vi Kapler's parts |
Oscar Zuniga wrote:
> -->Does anyone know of any further information on the intake manifold, or in
> particular- any pictures of this manifold on a website anywhere? Is it for
> the Stromberg carb, or-? If nobody has any other info, I'll get in touch
> with Kapler directly.
>
I bought his intake manifold, and it is available with either a flange for
a model B ford carb or a flange for a Stromberg carb, you specify when you order
it. There was one of the manifolds at Brodhead. It has a jacket around the
vertical part of the manifold below the Y and above the carb where oil is routed
to heat the manifold and cool the oil at the same time. Comes with plugs
installed, so if you don't want to use it like that, you don't have to.
Dennis Engelkenjohn
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: jigging fuselage |
| From: | "D.Dale Johnson" <dd5john(at)juno.com> |
Hi Tom
I know where there is a few corvair engines.
His name is Ron Donner
His e-mail is rwdonner(at)rconnect.com
If you can talk him out of one.
Dale MPLS.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kip & Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kerri Ann P. Plans, fuel cut-off |
>Hi Kip:
>
> I think it is Vi Kapler who has the 3 piece wing and aluminum aileron
>hinges which
>you mentioned. At least he is where I got mine from. He gave a talk on
>building the
>piet at Brodhead and was an employee or crony of Bernard Pietenpol. His
>address is:
>1033 Forest Hill Dr. SW Rochester, MN 55902 and his phone is 507 288-
>3322.
> I believe it was him who originally designed the 3 piece wing and he
>sells the
>hinges and he sells an intake manifold for the corvair and a prop hub,
>although it
>isn't designed to be used with an electric starter as WWs is.
>Dennis Engelkenjohn
Hi Dennis,
Thanks for the reply. I have Vi's 3-piece wing plans, but don't plan on
using them. The advantage to the ones from K.A. Price is that there is only
a 1/16" gap between the center section & the wing panels, so you don't need
to cover the gaps with aluminum flashing or whatever, & she claims that
this allows you to take the wings off in 15-30 minutes. As I said, I'm
still pondering the door. True, I won't be riding up there, but my most
likely frequent passenger will be my daughter, & I want to make sure that
if she ever needs to get out in a hurry, she has the best possible chance
to do that & extricating yourself from a 'normal' front cockpit takes some
effort, at least in my experience.
I do have a set of Vi's aluminum hinges & they are really nice, but I plan
on building my Corvair to use William W's electric starter setup, so I need
his hub.
******************************************************************************
Del-
what is the source of this check valve? I plan on putting a small header
tank in my wing, so this would be good insurance.
I have just learned that there is a check valve that
can be installed first at the tank before the valve,
so if there is a forced landing and the fitting breaks
off, the check valve will stop the fuel from flowing.
as william learned will happen, the hard way
Cheers!
Kip Gardner
Del
426 Schneider St. SE
North Canton, OH 44720
(330) 494-1775
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kip & Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: jigging fuselage |
>Hope to be finishing main fuse structure in a few weeks.
>
>At Oshkosh I went to a couple of William Wynne's forums. I'm now
>convinced that I will be using a corvair motor for power. I've already
>started the search for one near minneapolis but haven't been able to
>find too many. Any one know of a good source?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tom Brant, MPLS
Tom,
Congratulations on the milestone! As for a corvair engine, get on the web
at www.corvair.org (the national CORSA website), and use the links to find
a local chapter. Contact the Pres. of your lovcal chapter (or whoever they
list as contact), and tell them what you are looking for. They will help
you find someone in their group that is willing to part with an engine. I
did this recently, and wound up having a guy GIVE me a 1966 Monza engine
that he's had sitting in his garage. I'm going to go pick it up in a week
or so.
Also, Andrew Pietenpol lives over near River Falls & is (or was) real
involved in CORSA affairs. If you gave him a call, I'm sure he could give
you some leads.
Good luck!
Kip Gardner
426 Schneider St. SE
North Canton, OH 44720
(330) 494-1775
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ANNCARLEK(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 17 Msgs - 08/13/02 |
I'm at the same stage, the sides are ready to join. I made a fixture to bevel
the ends and used a japanese pull-knife to cut. It worked out swell, but I
forgot one board thinkness when I made the jig, so I'll be doing a little
more trimming.
Have you drilled the engine mount holes yet? And what kind of fit did you
get? I tried to do mine my precision machine-shop way(amateur), and now must
rework them. The guys in the hangar say I should have clamped the fittings in
well, then drill through the metal, wood, and the metal on the other side. I
guess that I would do it this way, now, if I could.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ian Holland" <iholland(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Shut-off |
Sorry, guys, I should have mentioned that it is a center wing tank
only, no header tank
-=Ian=-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | another gear question |
Hi Gene,
I was the one who suggested running the strings to figure out the gear
alignment. As for the gap in the V's, I made mine right at 1.5" at the
bottom. Of course, the gap gets wider as you go up, due to the angle of the
V struts. The axle rides nicely in the groove, and the bungees clear it
because they run over the axle in the longitudinal direction and under the V
fitings in the transverse direction, so they don't interact with the V
groove at all. Does that make sense? I also used the aligning pin
arrangement that Mike Cuy invented to counteract the braking torque and keep
the axle centered.
I am planning to put a small pad of hard rubber under the axle on top of the
V blocks to absorb some of the pounding from the axle. Haven't done it yet,
though.
Don't worry about not remembering who gave you the advice - I still haven't
gotten around to sending you some money for the axle washers you sent me.
I'll get to it some day, hopefully soon.
Jack Phillips
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gene Rambo
Subject: Pietenpol-List: another gear question
To those of you who have built a spreader bar-type gear, how wide did
you make the gap at the bottom of the side vees? The axle is 1.5" but
you gotta leave some room for shock cords. Also, has anyone put in some
type of protection for the wood to keep the axle from pounding against
it, maybe hardwood shims or something?
Some time back I posted a question regarding a problem I had aligning
the side braces of a straight axle gear. Only one person responded who
knew what I was talking about, and he suggested that I run four strings
from the ash block to the fuselage sides and align the strings. That
worked like a charm, but I do not remember who it was. Please speak up,
whoever you are.
Thanks
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net> |
Marine tanks are pretty heavy, and unless your engine has a fuel pump, they
might not work very well. They are not designed for gravity flow systems.
My suggestion if you are trying to decide how to do your fuel system is to
read the Tony Bingelis books about fuel systems. There is a lot that can go
wrong with an aircraft fuel supply, and when things go wrong with your fuel
system, you will not be very happy.
The lightest tank is usually an aluminum tank. Fiberglass tanks can be
fairly light, too. The traditional antique airplane material is terneplate,
which is a tin plated steel. Are the Cabela's tanks aluminum, or
fiberglass, or plastic or stainless steel? Boats can use any of the above,
as weight is usually not much concern.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Gdascomb(at)aol.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuel tanks
Is there any reason why the marine fuel tank(s) sold by Cabelo's could not
be used as a fuselage tank? The below-deck permanent tank shown on pg. 28 of
their catalog looks like the right size for a fuse mount. Any problems with
this?
What is the preferred installation...fuselage or wing tank? Thanks for any
comments.
George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net> |
On 8/14/02 12:29 PM, "Oscar Zuniga" wrote:
>
>> Wonder if this Piet was ever sold? Can't bark at $6,500.00 bucks
>> for flying Piet eh?
>
> As far as I know it's still for sale. But it's a heavy airplane, and
needs
> to go on a diet.
Jack Phillips and I ran into a fellow from Iowa at Oshkosh when Jack was
wearing a Piet shirt (I think). He told of buying a Franklin powered Piet
from Oregon that was green and yellow. When we talked to him a bit, both of
us realized this was the aforementioned airplane. Heavy, Franklin engine and
needed a little TLC. He said he is having a blast with it.
Jack, do you remember anything else? I think I got it right.
TakeCare,
-john-
That's about all I remember, John. He was very enthusiastic about it.
Jack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com> |
Woohoo!
I just bought my engine. A Corvair. 1964 - 164 cu.in. 110hp. In
fiarly good condition. Am going to start the conversion soon. I
can't wait to tear into it and get it going.
DJ Vegh
www.raptoronline.com
This email has been scanned for known viruses and made safe for viewing by Half Price Hosting, a leading email and web hosting provider. For more information on an anti-virus email solution, visit <http://www.halfpricehosting.com/av.asp>.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary McNeel, Jr." <gmcneel(at)mykitplane.com> |
How much DJ? -Gary
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of DJ Vegh
> Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 8:52 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Corvair
>
>
> Woohoo!
>
> I just bought my engine. A Corvair. 1964 - 164 cu.in. 110hp. In
> fiarly good condition. Am going to start the conversion soon. I
> can't wait to tear into it and get it going.
>
> DJ Vegh
> www.raptoronline.com
>
>
> This email has been scanned for known viruses and made safe for
> viewing by Half Price Hosting, a leading email and web hosting
> provider. For more information on an anti-virus email solution,
> visit <http://www.halfpricehosting.com/av.asp>.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary McNeel, Jr." <gmcneel(at)mykitplane.com> |
The guys at the Noon Patrol, building Nieuport 11's, used the Cabela's
tanks. You might try their site.
-Gary McNeel, Jr.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jack
> Phillips
> Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 8:31 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Fuel tanks
>
>
>
>
> Marine tanks are pretty heavy, and unless your engine has a fuel
> pump, they
> might not work very well. They are not designed for gravity flow systems.
> My suggestion if you are trying to decide how to do your fuel system is to
> read the Tony Bingelis books about fuel systems. There is a lot
> that can go
> wrong with an aircraft fuel supply, and when things go wrong with
> your fuel
> system, you will not be very happy.
>
> The lightest tank is usually an aluminum tank. Fiberglass tanks can be
> fairly light, too. The traditional antique airplane material is
> terneplate,
> which is a tin plated steel. Are the Cabela's tanks aluminum, or
> fiberglass, or plastic or stainless steel? Boats can use any of
> the above,
> as weight is usually not much concern.
>
> Jack
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Gdascomb(at)aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 12:05 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuel tanks
>
>
> Is there any reason why the marine fuel tank(s) sold by Cabelo's
> could not
> be used as a fuselage tank? The below-deck permanent tank shown
> on pg. 28 of
> their catalog looks like the right size for a fuse mount. Any
> problems with
> this?
> What is the preferred installation...fuselage or wing tank? Thanks for any
> comments.
> George
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gdascomb(at)aol.com |
Jack:
Thanks for the information. Cabelos has both plastic & aluminum tanks in the
range of 13 gallons on up to 25 or so. I am not sure of the weight..but I
will sure check on that.
I have the fuel tank plans from Keri-Ann Price . Very nice installation but
looks like a ton of work. I am using her plans for the wing and it is working
out fine. Any opinion on her tank plans? What tank did you use?
Take care, George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com> |
$150 ... Just started tearing into it tonight... Overall not bad shape!
DJ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary
McNeel, Jr.
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Corvair
-->
How much DJ? -Gary
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of DJ Vegh
> Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 8:52 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Corvair
>
>
> -->
>
> Woohoo!
>
> I just bought my engine. A Corvair. 1964 - 164 cu.in. 110hp. In
> fiarly good condition. Am going to start the conversion soon. I
> can't wait to tear into it and get it going.
>
> DJ Vegh
> www.raptoronline.com
>
>
> This email has been scanned for known viruses and made safe for
> viewing by Half Price Hosting, a leading email and web hosting
> provider. For more information on an anti-virus email solution, visit
> <http://www.halfpricehosting.com/av.asp>.
>
>
=
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
=
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi George,
I have not seen the Price plans. I made my own aluminum tank for the
centersection (I don't like fuselage tanks unless you can get them high
enough to give sufficient head above the carburetor - gravity systems don't
work well in all attitudes without at least 17" head height). I riveted it
together and then had a friend TIG weld it for me. I also put four fuel
outlets in it, one in each corner so that no matter what attitude it is in,
one of those outlets is at the lowest point. Stearmans use a similar
system. Of course, this ads a little complexity in that now I have four
fuel lines coming out of the tank, one on each cabane strut, but I also have
almost no unuseable fuel in the tank and have efficiently used all the space
in the centersection, giving me about 16 gallons of capacity (I made my
centersection 6" wider than plans to give more fuel capacity).
The fuel tank was not that much work and it was fun. I'd do it again.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Gdascomb(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fuel tanks
Jack:
Thanks for the information. Cabelos has both plastic & aluminum tanks in
the
range of 13 gallons on up to 25 or so. I am not sure of the weight..but I
will sure check on that.
I have the fuel tank plans from Keri-Ann Price . Very nice installation
but
looks like a ton of work. I am using her plans for the wing and it is
working
out fine. Any opinion on her tank plans? What tank did you use?
Take care, George
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sayre, William G" <william.g.sayre(at)boeing.com> |
| Subject: | green and yellow Piet |
Jack Phillips and I ran into a fellow from Iowa at Oshkosh when Jack was
wearing a Piet shirt (I think). He told of buying a Franklin powered Piet
from Oregon that was green and yellow. When we talked to him a bit, both of
us realized this was the aforementioned airplane. Heavy, Franklin engine and
needed a little TLC. He said he is having a blast with it.
Jack, do you remember anything else? I think I got it right.
TakeCare,
-john-
-------------------------------------------
There were two green and yellow Piets in the Northwest in the past. The one
on the web is the "Newberry" Piet and is still available (and still
overweight) and the second one was sold months back was the "Skinner" Piet.
The "Skinner" Piet has a Franklin 90 and a non-Piet looking tail, and the
overweight "Newberry" Piet has a 65 Franklin that aggravates its' problems.
Bill Sayre
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cockpit mockup / |
| From: | "Kent Hallsten" <KHallsten(at)governair.com> |
Good morning Pietenpoler's,
I finished the mockup last night , and I fit just fine, but I would like to change
a couple things a bit, and wonder if anyone else has done this.
Because I measured wrong, the top rear seatback wound up 1" farther back than plans
dictate, giving it a bit more angle. Is it all right to do something like
this? I sure like the way it feels, and would probably go for 2" if that would
be ok too. This plane is much more comfortable than I thought it would be.
I don't have any problem with my shins and the front seat cutouts, like I did in
my friends project, so that stays to plan.
The panel still seems "right in my face", is that normal? I think I'll go cross
eyed focusing on the panel, outside, back to panel, etc. Any comments? (Too
used to my automobile dashboards being a couple feet away.) I'm not familiar
with the size of instrument bodies, so is it realistic to think I can make
the panel depth less than 6"?
And I clip the panel bottom with my knees climbing in and out. Is it possible
to raise the panel an inch only? Or should I make the whole fuse 1" taller?
Would that start to change other things I'm not thinking about now, other than
extra weight of wood? I guess now that I think about it, raising the panel
bottom an inch isn't hard.
Thanks guys!
Kent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | white ash axle blocks |
Gene---as long as you use a good hardwood-------ie, the white ash as shown
in the plans for the bottom of the V portion of the wood straight axle gear
you don't need any more room in the V's like Jack P. mentioned for the
bungee cords nor do you need any protective pads to keep the axle from
ruining the wood. I glued some rubber sheet to the top of those ash
blocks but in time they fell off and the wood is very slightly dented there
where the axle hits, but nothing bad at all. On another note, I would
recommend using about 6 ft. of 1/2" diam. bungee for each side of the
gear. Any bigger diam. is a bear to work with. Wrap the heck out of it
as it will stretch and with the wt. of full fuel and two people it puts
some tension on those wraps.
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Two GN-1's for sale on e-bay |
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1851168783&r=0
&t=0
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1851448391&r=0
&t=0
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | Two GN-1's for sale on e-bay |
Ther second one is mine. It's the one I bought in April. I bought it
for some odd and ends that I wanted to tale from it. I ended up taking
the control stick, rudder pedals tail flying wires and a few other
things. Overall the plane is still 85% intact.
I was thinknign of finishing it but I don't have the time nor do I
really think I want 2 GN-1's.
Any questions ..... Email me.
DJ Vegh
www.raptoronline.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
D Cuy
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Two GN-1's for sale on e-bay
-->
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1851168783
&r=0
&t=0
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1851448391
&r=0
&t=0
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Maynard" <ken(at)polarcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Built up Spar |
Hello,
What would be your favorite tool for making a clean 12/1 scarf cut on a 1x1"
doug fir longeron. I have a table saw and a cut off saw but cannot
understand how to do this accurately enough to create a good glue joint.
Do I not have the right tools or am I just missing the expertise to make
these cuts clean and accurately.
Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Maynard" <ken(at)polarcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Built up Spar |
Greg
I have heard of the box spar that I think you were talking of at one time
but a biult up spar? I don't remember hearing of this on the list. Could you
post this on the web somewhere and let us know where it is at.
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Cardinal <gcardinal(at)startribune.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Built up Spar
>
>Matt,
>I have a good article on designing built up spars. Send an SASE to me
>for a copy.
>
>Greg Cardinal
>5236 Shoreview Ave. So.
>Minneapolis, MN 55417
>
>>>> steamlaunch(at)softhome.net 08/09/02 11:27PM >>>
>
>
>Hello,
>
>Has anyone ever used a built up spar with a plywood web on a piet? Would
>it still be
>considered a piet. BP laminated Spars out of dimensional wood. This
>would merely be a
>variation of the theme.
>
>Matt
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Built up Spar |
lay out the line on the side of the longeron where you
want your joint/cut to be. rough cut it on your
bandsaw, handsaw whatever, but leave some wood on the
waste side of your line. sandwich your longeron with
two pieces of oak clamped into place on your line. use
your belt sander to sand it down to your oak pieces.
presto... a perfect joint everytime. if you layed it
out wrong just move your oak pieces a little bit down
further, and sand again.
Del
--- Ken Maynard wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> What would be your favorite tool for making a clean
> 12/1 scarf cut on a 1x1"
> doug fir longeron. I have a table saw and a cut off
> saw but cannot
> understand how to do this accurately enough to
> create a good glue joint.
> Do I not have the right tools or am I just missing
> the expertise to make
> these cuts clean and accurately.
> Ken
>
>
>
> Forum -
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gadd, Skip" <Skip.Gadd(at)ssa.gov> |
Ken,
I use a router, with a flat end bit.
For the jig you need 3 pieces of wood, (1) 3/4 X 4 X 15, (2) 1/2 X 2 X 15.
Now attach the 2 smaller pieces to the sides of the 3/4 X 4 piece in such a
way that the top edge of the sides form a 12/1 slope.
The router rides up and down this slope while the 1 X 1 is secured to the
surface of the 3/4 X 4.
I like to draw a 12/1 line on the side of the work and cut close to the line
with the band saw, before routing, this saves time, router bits and sawdust
cleanup.
Do the above to two pieces of wood, glue them together and you will have a
perfect scarf joint.
I hope I was able to explain the jig well enough.
Skip
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Maynard [mailto:ken(at)polarcomm.com]
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Built up Spar
Hello,
What would be your favorite tool for making a clean 12/1 scarf cut on a 1x1"
doug fir longeron. I have a table saw and a cut off saw but cannot
understand how to do this accurately enough to create a good glue joint.
Do I not have the right tools or am I just missing the expertise to make
these cuts clean and accurately.
Ken
_
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Built up Spar |
Ken,
I cut mine on the table saw by staggering the pieces and feeding them thru
the saw at the staggered angle with the saw blade slightly below the
thickness of the wood for containment. This method works very well for me,
and I scarf alot of wood. Doug Bryant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
"Gary McNeel, Jr." wrote:
>The guys at the Noon Patrol, building Nieuport 11's, used the
>Cabela's tanks. You might try their site.
Here are a couple of photos to show what Gary's talking about:
http://www.eaa292.org/noon_patrol/may_02/p5250126.jpg
http://www.eaa292.org/noon_patrol/may_02/p5040153.jpg
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lshutks(at)webtv.net (Leon Stefan) |
| Subject: | Keri Price fuel tank |
George: I built the Price fuel tank, and your right, it was a ton of
work. Leon S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brants" <tmbrant(at)uswest.net> |
I'm continuing to join the fuse sides and tonight, before I put in the
diagonal braces in the top and bottom section, I noticed something in
the plans... I'm a drafter for a living so this is why I ask... On the
plans, in the bottom fuselage layout the diagonal bracing is shown to go
the same direction as the diagonals for the top section... However, the
square bracing on the bottom fuselage layout is shown in hidden lines
below the plywood floor. If that is the correct projection then bottom
fuse layout is shown upside down and the diagonals go in oposite
direction from the top layout. Does this make sense??? Maybe this is
obvious to some but I bet some people haven't caught this. Maybe it's
not that important anyway.
How have others done this?
So, the next step I'll be taking is putting in the two longest dianonals
(1 each) top and bottom. After they're in, I'll be putting the floor
plywood down and firewall.
Another question about the firewall. Do I build it per the plans no
matter what engine I use? It looks like it's kinda got a "shelf" behind
it. Is that the way it should be for every engine choice? I'm using a
corvair.
Any comments would be appreciated.
Oh, and by the way... I'm having a great time building this thing!
Tom Brant, MPLS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | rib stitching debacle |
Gene,
I know the pressure inside the wing (and in the fuselage) of my tcraft was
lower than ambient. I learned this years ago when I had a static leak in
the wing and I did a lot of tests with the altimeter and airspeed with
various hookups and static placements. I imagine that the pressure on top
of the wing is lowest, the bottom the highest, and inside it is somewhere in
between. That would still cause the top surface to ballon.
chris
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gene
Rambo
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: rib stitching debacle
C'mon guys, there is no such thing as being "sucked up" from the top of
anything. If something is being "sucked up", it is being pushed up from the
bottom. You do not suck a drink through a straw, you lower the pressure
above and the ambient pressure pushes it up into your mouth. A wing is the
same thing, the pressure is lower on top, so the pressure below pushes it up
(in combination with some other forces). The reason the fabric bows up on
the top is that the wing is not airtight and some of the higher pressure air
gets into the wing and pushes the fabric up between the ribs. The bowing up
of the bottom fabric is not as exaggerated because the pressure differential
above and below the lower fabric is not as great as the top.
As for leaving off the rib stitching, I'd like to build an airplane without
having to put in all those pesky bolts and nuts, too, but you gotta. You
are building a fabric airplane, fabric has to be stitched, you knew that
when you started, get on with it. You want to avoid rib stitching, build an
RV. Rib stitching is actually very easy once you get the hang of it, which
takes about ten minutes (I gotta re-learn it every time I do it).
Gene R
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brants" <tmbrant(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | photos of my project |
"I'm building an airplane in my basement"... When I tell people this
who've seen my basement the question is allways asked - "how are you
gonna get it out, fly it? he he..." Obviously not, but I do have a
plan to get it out. It revolves around lifting my house off it's
footings, say about 12'-0". This should provide enough clearance that I
can taxi it out.
Actually, it will come out in pieces... Fuselage, tail section, gear,
wing, etc... and then be assembled at a hangar near you.
If interested after hearing my ramblings, take a look at some photos of
my project.
http://public.fotki.com/tab1324/pietenpol_construction/
Tom Brant, MPLS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | COZYPILOT(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: photos of my project |
In a message dated 8/15/02 10:12:25 PM Central Daylight Time,
tmbrant(at)uswest.net writes:
> http://public.fotki.com/tab1324/pietenpol_construction/
>
LOOKIN GOOD!!!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: joining fuse |
I don't remember that about the plans, but maybe I
missed it, and I don't have them in front of me. you
don't need the shelf, that was only for mounting a
magneto for a ford or something.
Del
--- Brants wrote:
>
>
> I'm continuing to join the fuse sides and tonight,
> before I put in the
> diagonal braces in the top and bottom section, I
> noticed something in
> the plans... I'm a drafter for a living so this is
> why I ask... On the
> plans, in the bottom fuselage layout the diagonal
> bracing is shown to go
> the same direction as the diagonals for the top
> section... However, the
> square bracing on the bottom fuselage layout is
> shown in hidden lines
> below the plywood floor. If that is the correct
> projection then bottom
> fuse layout is shown upside down and the diagonals
> go in oposite
> direction from the top layout. Does this make
> sense??? Maybe this is
> obvious to some but I bet some people haven't caught
> this. Maybe it's
> not that important anyway.
>
> How have others done this?
>
> So, the next step I'll be taking is putting in the
> two longest dianonals
> (1 each) top and bottom. After they're in, I'll be
> putting the floor
> plywood down and firewall.
>
> Another question about the firewall. Do I build it
> per the plans no
> matter what engine I use? It looks like it's kinda
> got a "shelf" behind
> it. Is that the way it should be for every engine
> choice? I'm using a
> corvair.
>
> Any comments would be appreciated.
>
> Oh, and by the way... I'm having a great time
> building this thing!
>
> Tom Brant, MPLS
>
>
>
> Forum -
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "allen smith" <allenfarleysmith(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/15/02 |
Dear Fellow Pietenpol builders and flyers,
I would like to hear anyone's initial thoughts about the possibility of
powering an Aircamper with a converted 1.9 Ltr. TDI Diesel engine from the
new VW Golf. The engine specs show 90 HP at a low enough RPM with a high
enough torque to sling a big model A ford A style prop. Of course, the
first thought is that diesels have always been to heavy but I am
overwhelmingly impressed by the power, smoothness and fuel efficiencies of
this amazing engine. Although I have not yet been able to find anyone who
could tell me what a stripped engine would weigh, I am inclined to believe
that it would be nice match.
Let me know if anyone knows of a brand spankin new TDI GOLF that has been
rear-ended. I wish no whiplash onto anyone but I am very interested in
thinking more about this possibility.
I am currently building here in Hood River Oregon and am very lucky to have
met so many local Carbon Fiber composite folks. If I'm not careful, I may
end up building a Piet that could handle 10Gs + and - with a 1000 mile range
between truck stops.
Allen Smith
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
Hello, low 'n' slow fliers-
I checked with Ernie Moreno up at Independence Airpark (Oregon) and he still
has his green and yellow Piet, and it's still for sale. So there must be
TWO heavy, Franklin-powered, green and yellow Piets out there!
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lshutks(at)webtv.net (Leon Stefan) |
Tom: I suggest you leave the firewall off until you have installed your
rudder petals, cont.column and any other internal fus. items that you
can think of. If you need something rigid up front to hold things square
during assembly, temporarily staple the firewall on. Then remove it
after your fus. is complete and do the internal stuff. It's tuff working
inside the fuselage when its setting up on your work bench. Leon S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isablcorky(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: basement questions & rewards |
I didn't know you were gifted with any yankee diddy dumb wads up there. I
thought all the why didn't you boys lived in my neighborhood. This EAA group
is the worst. They haven't even built an outhouse in the last 20 yrs but they
sure can advise you as to your errors. They had an old Aeronca Ciief given
them. They rebuilt it and are now hassling over who gets to fly it. Seems
they are forming some sort of corporation. SOS in Shreveport. Also I found
out today that it is against the city ordinance to wash your auto OR airplane
at the airport in addition to fueling your own plane. I haven't asked whether
it's ok to tyake a sh-t without getting permission from the airport board
which consists of members who are not allowed to have any connection with
flying, especially being a pilot. How bout those apples.
Thank the Lord that I'll be away from that airport as soon as my fearless
test pilot does his thing.
Sorry about this negativeness but after finding out about the freedom
erosions I have to blow my top to someone. I promise I'll never do it again
to the list.
Corky in Shreveport (dirty word today) Louisiana with a big rosy glowing
posterial anatomy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hubbard, Eugene" <ehubbard(at)titan.com> |
| Subject: | basement questions & rewards |
My favorite dumb question was why I didn't build it out of fiberglass!
Gene Hubbard
San Diego
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "malcolm Zirges" <macz(at)macsells.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/15/02 |
Hello. I agree about the possibilities of the 1.9 TDI engine. I am looking
for one for my Piet but they are hard to find. Even with the turbo, the
weight should be comparable to the Model A.
If I can find one, I will probably go with a belt drive to get up into the
power range but swing a big, efficient prop below 2000rpm, however. I sure
like the advantages of no ignition requirement and much lower risk of fire.
I had a diesel rabbit (1.8 liter no turbo) and it ran for 230,000 miles with
NO work before I traded it off. The next guy ran it for at least another
50K miles before I lost track of it.
Good Luck, Mac in Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: "allen smith" <allenfarleysmith(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/15/02
>
> Dear Fellow Pietenpol builders and flyers,
>
> I would like to hear anyone's initial thoughts about the possibility of
> powering an Aircamper with a converted 1.9 Ltr. TDI Diesel engine from the
> new VW Golf. The engine specs show 90 HP at a low enough RPM with a high
> enough torque to sling a big model A ford A style prop. Of course, the
> first thought is that diesels have always been to heavy but I am
> overwhelmingly impressed by the power, smoothness and fuel efficiencies of
> this amazing engine. Although I have not yet been able to find anyone who
> could tell me what a stripped engine would weigh, I am inclined to believe
> that it would be nice match.
>
> Let me know if anyone knows of a brand spankin new TDI GOLF that has been
> rear-ended. I wish no whiplash onto anyone but I am very interested in
> thinking more about this possibility.
>
> I am currently building here in Hood River Oregon and am very lucky to
have
> met so many local Carbon Fiber composite folks. If I'm not careful, I may
> end up building a Piet that could handle 10Gs + and - with a 1000 mile
range
> between truck stops.
>
> Allen Smith
>
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Cockpit mockup / |
Hi Kent,
I would strongly advise you TO rake your seatback a little bit. I had to
add a wedge of foam to my seatback to make it comfortable and that puts me
even closer to the instrument panel.
The instrument panel is close, but fairly typical for an open cockpit tandem
airplane. My brother's Hatz Biplane is similar.
I would not make the space in front of the panel any smaller. Altimeters
tend to be close to 6" long and you will need room for all the plumbing.
Raising the panel is possible as it is not a structural member, but the
panel space is pretty limited anyway and I would make a cardboard mockup of
the panel and your planned instrument layout, as recommended in Tony
Bingelis' books.
Good luck,
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kent
Hallsten
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Cockpit mockup /
Good morning Pietenpoler's,
I finished the mockup last night , and I fit just fine, but I would like to
change a couple things a bit, and wonder if anyone else has done this.
Because I measured wrong, the top rear seatback wound up 1" farther back
than plans dictate, giving it a bit more angle. Is it all right to do
something like this? I sure like the way it feels, and would probably go
for 2" if that would be ok too. This plane is much more comfortable than I
thought it would be.
I don't have any problem with my shins and the front seat cutouts, like I
did in my friends project, so that stays to plan.
The panel still seems "right in my face", is that normal? I think I'll go
cross eyed focusing on the panel, outside, back to panel, etc. Any
comments? (Too used to my automobile dashboards being a couple feet away.)
I'm not familiar with the size of instrument bodies, so is it realistic to
think I can make the panel depth less than 6"?
And I clip the panel bottom with my knees climbing in and out. Is it
possible to raise the panel an inch only? Or should I make the whole fuse
1" taller? Would that start to change other things I'm not thinking about
now, other than extra weight of wood? I guess now that I think about it,
raising the panel bottom an inch isn't hard.
Thanks guys!
Kent
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net> |
Tom,
The diagonals on the top and bottom should go in opposite directions. This
helps add a slight bit of torsional rigidity to the fuselage.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brants
Subject: Pietenpol-List: joining fuse
I'm continuing to join the fuse sides and tonight, before I put in the
diagonal braces in the top and bottom section, I noticed something in
the plans... I'm a drafter for a living so this is why I ask... On the
plans, in the bottom fuselage layout the diagonal bracing is shown to go
the same direction as the diagonals for the top section... However, the
square bracing on the bottom fuselage layout is shown in hidden lines
below the plywood floor. If that is the correct projection then bottom
fuse layout is shown upside down and the diagonals go in oposite
direction from the top layout. Does this make sense??? Maybe this is
obvious to some but I bet some people haven't caught this. Maybe it's
not that important anyway.
How have others done this?
So, the next step I'll be taking is putting in the two longest dianonals
(1 each) top and bottom. After they're in, I'll be putting the floor
plywood down and firewall.
Another question about the firewall. Do I build it per the plans no
matter what engine I use? It looks like it's kinda got a "shelf" behind
it. Is that the way it should be for every engine choice? I'm using a
corvair.
Any comments would be appreciated.
Oh, and by the way... I'm having a great time building this thing!
Tom Brant, MPLS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: joining fuse |
| From: | catdesigns(at)juno.com |
Tom:
I think you are right and it's the way I did my fuselage. The plans show
the fuselage bottom view as if you are looking up at the bottom. Run the
diagonals opposite each other.
The way I understand it you only need the shelf and short firewall if you
are using a Ford motor. I am using a A-75 so I will make the firewall
tall enough to hold the coming. I think this is the same for the
corvair.
Chris
Sacramento, CA
>
> I'm continuing to join the fuse sides and tonight, before I put in
> the
> diagonal braces in the top and bottom section, I noticed something
> in
> the plans... I'm a drafter for a living so this is why I ask... On
> the
> plans, in the bottom fuselage layout the diagonal bracing is shown
> to go
> the same direction as the diagonals for the top section... However,
> the
> square bracing on the bottom fuselage layout is shown in hidden
> lines
> below the plywood floor. If that is the correct projection then
> bottom
> fuse layout is shown upside down and the diagonals go in oposite
> direction from the top layout. Does this make sense??? Maybe this
> is
> obvious to some but I bet some people haven't caught this. Maybe
> it's
> not that important anyway.
>
> How have others done this?
>
> So, the next step I'll be taking is putting in the two longest
> dianonals
> (1 each) top and bottom. After they're in, I'll be putting the
> floor
> plywood down and firewall.
>
> Another question about the firewall. Do I build it per the plans
> no
> matter what engine I use? It looks like it's kinda got a "shelf"
> behind
> it. Is that the way it should be for every engine choice? I'm
> using a
> corvair.
>
> Any comments would be appreciated.
>
> Oh, and by the way... I'm having a great time building this thing!
>
> Tom Brant, MPLS
>
>
>
>
> messages.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "" <genet(at)iwon.com> |
Allen,
I have no expierence with the new Golf deisel your considering.
I'd agree your first consideration might be weight. The old Rabit Deisel was exactly
the same as the gas engine with the exception of the head and induction
system. As such, they were very lite for a deisel but they still lasted almost
forever. Unlike the GM 350 conversion which was a desaster. The big problem with
the old rabit deisels was vibration. There were parts of the car that suffered
from vibration failures the exaust system was almost imposible to keep together
in it's stock form for a reasonable length of time. VW cut some corners
on the exaust, which worked ok on the gas Rabit but diden't
fair so well on the diesel.Sounds like a good experement.
If it wored out you'd probably have a plane that could really
strain your blader between fuel stops.
Gene Tomblin
--- On Fri 08/16, allen smith wrote:
From: allen smith [mailto: allenfarleysmith(at)hotmail.com]
Date: Fri, 16 Aug 2002 02:55:40 -0500
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/15/02
>
>
> Dear Fellow Pietenpol builders and flyers,
>
> I would like to hear anyone's initial thoughts about the possibility of
> powering an Aircamper with a converted 1.9 Ltr. TDI Diesel engine from the
>
> new VW Golf. The engine specs show 90 HP at a low enough RPM with a high
>
> enough torque to sling a big model A ford A style prop. Of course, the
> first thought is that diesels have always been to heavy but I am
> overwhelmingly impressed by the power, smoothness and fuel efficiencies of
>
> this amazing engine. Although I have not yet been able to find anyone who
>
> could tell me what a stripped engine would weigh, I am inclined to believe
>
> that it would be nice match.
>
> Let me know if anyone knows of a brand spankin new TDI GOLF that has been
>
> rear-ended. I wish no whiplash onto anyone but I am very interested in
> thinking more about this possibility.
>
> I am currently building here in Hood River Oregon and am very lucky to
> have
> met so many local Carbon Fiber composite folks. If I'm not careful, I may
>
> end up building a Piet that could handle 10Gs + and - with a 1000 mile
> range
> between truck stops.
>
> Allen Smith
>
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
------------------------------------------------
Can a Web portal forever change your life?
Win up to $25 Million on iWon - click here!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ANNCARLEK(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/15/02 |
In a message dated 8/15/02 11:53:43 PM, pietenpol-list-digest(at)matronics.com
writes:
>>
I deliberately moved my seat back one inch at the top after sitting in an old
Piet that was donated to the chapter. This was the old short fuse, so my rear
cockpit will be three inches longer and a lot more comfortable. I'm also
dropping the front seat bottom as far as possible, so the stick's connecting
link will have to be bent to clear the seat bottom. There can't be any
strengh problems with the truss (fuse) , especially at the top longerons
behind the rear seat. Carl L (another one!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ANNCARLEK(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 18 Msgs - 08/15/02 |
In a message dated 8/15/02 11:53:43 PM, pietenpol-list-digest(at)matronics.com
writes:
>>
Righr on, the fuse is shown from the bottom looking up, and from the top
looking down. Did you catch the 1/2" X 1" dimension for the bottom struts and
braces?
I drilled the holes for the metal parts before joining the sides, so that I
could use the drill press and get them right on. But I did not drill the
metal parts in matched pairs - big mistake! Soo now I'm reworking these
parts, and holes. Now I'd recommend drilling only one part, then only one
hole in the other. clamp firmly in place and drill the other holes carefully!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brants" <tmbrant(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: joining fuse |
This is how I'm doing it. It's hard to know if that's truly what Bernie
meant or not but if so, it sure was drafted correctly.
Tom B.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: joining fuse
>
> Tom,
>
> The diagonals on the top and bottom should go in opposite directions.
This
> helps add a slight bit of torsional rigidity to the fuselage.
>
> Jack
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brants
> Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 10:39 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: joining fuse
>
>
> I'm continuing to join the fuse sides and tonight, before I put in the
> diagonal braces in the top and bottom section, I noticed something in
> the plans... I'm a drafter for a living so this is why I ask... On the
> plans, in the bottom fuselage layout the diagonal bracing is shown to go
> the same direction as the diagonals for the top section... However, the
> square bracing on the bottom fuselage layout is shown in hidden lines
> below the plywood floor. If that is the correct projection then bottom
> fuse layout is shown upside down and the diagonals go in oposite
> direction from the top layout. Does this make sense??? Maybe this is
> obvious to some but I bet some people haven't caught this. Maybe it's
> not that important anyway.
>
> How have others done this?
>
> So, the next step I'll be taking is putting in the two longest dianonals
> (1 each) top and bottom. After they're in, I'll be putting the floor
> plywood down and firewall.
>
> Another question about the firewall. Do I build it per the plans no
> matter what engine I use? It looks like it's kinda got a "shelf" behind
> it. Is that the way it should be for every engine choice? I'm using a
> corvair.
>
> Any comments would be appreciated.
>
> Oh, and by the way... I'm having a great time building this thing!
>
> Tom Brant, MPLS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brants" <tmbrant(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | firewall for corvair |
I brought this up again because I need the comments of corvair builders.
What dimension have people been using for the firewall? In the plans
it shows a shelf, which I'm told is only for the Ford engines (space for
a starter I believe). Del is a Corvair builder so I'm interested in
hearing your opinion on this if you've gotten this far. Chris had
mentioned that you just make the firewall tall enough, but I'm unsure
what dimension that is. Maybe Wynne's conversion manual talks about an
engine mount. I'll have to check.
I think Leon has a good idea in leaving the firewall off until controls
are built. I'll probalby leave the 1/2" OSB in place until that's
completed or until it gets in the way too many times.
Tom B. MPLS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brants" <tmbrant(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | floor installation |
I've left the left side fuselage plywood off of my fuselage in order to
make fitting and installation of the interior control ass'y easier. The
ply for the right side is routed flush with the lower and upper
longerons. If I install the floor at this point, I would probably route
the floor flush with the exterior ply on the right side and and flush
with the longerons on the left side. Then the side would be attached
later and routed flush with the with the floor. Other than looking
different from one side to the other, doe's this cause any problems that
anyone is aware of? I can't imagine loosing 1/8" of top surface glue
area is a big deal, besides the 1/8" would be picked up when gluing the
side on.
Tom B. MPLS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Maynard" <ken(at)polarcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Piet Family History |
Hello
Did you ever attend a family reunion and sit sipping ice tea listening to
all the family tree sages. Later on the ride home trying to organize it all
in your mind.
Lets see it all started with BP then there was Uncle Vi and little Donnie.
Keri-Ann Price? As in Keri-Ann Price Plans? I'm confused. I did an internet
search and could find nothing. Now I'm sitting here eating a big piece of
humble pie and asking 'Who is Keri-Ann Price'
I downloaded a copy of 'How I Make Wood Propellers.' Theres a story of Mr
Schuberts meeting with BP and Vi and their fitting of his propeller on the
Corvair powered Piet of
BP's. Everyone with an interest in Pietenpol history should have a copy.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: firewall for corvair |
Tom,
William Wynn's manual does have engine mount plans in it. He also
gives a detailed explaining the construction. I believe that William
raised the thrust line on his, now destroyed, aircamper so that it
was level with the top longeron.
I took a picture of our firewall and put some dimension on it and
will send it to you in another direct email. The basic dimensions for
it were 24.5 in wide (plus an extra 3/4" wrap around the sides and
bottom of the fuselage) and 22.5in tall before the arc on top. The
arc is about a 13" radius. The material ours was made of is 2024-T3
aluminum .032 thickness.
In the rebuild we will probably use stainless, but that is yet to be decided.
I know some people change the arc on top to fit their engine or to
make it look more rounded (a different radius arc - 12" I'd say -
would also give more room on the instrument panel if needed).
When we bought our project it did not have the shelf - and it is not
really needed with the corvair, but we may put one in for a number of
reasons.
1) It is easier to get to the nuts or nut plates on the upper engine
mounts. If you leave the shelf out you can't really get a solid brace
across the upper front fuselage because you need room to get a nut or
two in there - if that makes sense. I'll get a picture if doesn't.
2) We have a header tank and currently the gas line out of it runs
down into the front cockpit a bit and then heads through the
firewall. If we do a shelf we can run the fuel line in the metal
lined shelf and keep it out of the cockpit longer in the event of a
crash. This would also give better access to the tank and its fuel
line. I can attest to the fact that it is a pain to work on anything
in the front cockpit when the firewall is on.
Kirk
>
>I brought this up again because I need the comments of corvair builders.
> What dimension have people been using for the firewall? In the plans
>it shows a shelf, which I'm told is only for the Ford engines (space for
>a starter I believe). Del is a Corvair builder so I'm interested in
>hearing your opinion on this if you've gotten this far. Chris had
>mentioned that you just make the firewall tall enough, but I'm unsure
>what dimension that is. Maybe Wynne's conversion manual talks about an
>engine mount. I'll have to check.
>
>I think Leon has a good idea in leaving the firewall off until controls
>are built. I'll probalby leave the 1/2" OSB in place until that's
>completed or until it gets in the way too many times.
>
>Tom B. MPLS
--
Kirk Huizenga and Bryan Eastep's Aircamper and Corvair Project
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList.cfm?Menu=PhotoGallery
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owen Davies" <owen5819(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Piet Family History |
Ken Maynard asked:
> Keri-Ann Price? As in Keri-Ann Price Plans? I'm confused. I did an
internet
> search and could find nothing. Now I'm sitting here eating a big piece of
> humble pie and asking 'Who is Keri-Ann Price'
Keri-Ann is a New Hampshire builder who turned out an extremely pretty
Ford-engine Piet that included some nice mods and has offered plans for
the changes. These include a passenger door, wood-and-steel struts, a
tail wheel assembly, a wing tank, and maybe one or two other things.
Unfortunately, Keri-Ann has pretty much vanished, and the Piet is
reportedly sitting in a friend's hangar, more or less for sale, waiting for
repairs after a nose-over.
Owen Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skycarl" <skycarl(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall for corvair |
The manual I recieved from Wm Wynn did not have the motor mount plans.
Hmmm, have to write him about that. I used the Pietenpol plans for the
corvair
and put in the thrust line Bernie used.
Kirk you are correct in securing the center tubes. All the weight is
supported
in the corner mounts.
Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: The Huizenga's <kirkh@unique-software.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: firewall for corvair
<kirkh@unique-software.com>
>
> Tom,
>
> William Wynn's manual does have engine mount plans in it. He also
> gives a detailed explaining the construction. I believe that William
> raised the thrust line on his, now destroyed, aircamper so that it
> was level with the top longeron.
>
> I took a picture of our firewall and put some dimension on it and
> will send it to you in another direct email. The basic dimensions for
> it were 24.5 in wide (plus an extra 3/4" wrap around the sides and
> bottom of the fuselage) and 22.5in tall before the arc on top. The
> arc is about a 13" radius. The material ours was made of is 2024-T3
> aluminum .032 thickness.
>
> In the rebuild we will probably use stainless, but that is yet to be
decided.
>
> I know some people change the arc on top to fit their engine or to
> make it look more rounded (a different radius arc - 12" I'd say -
> would also give more room on the instrument panel if needed).
>
> When we bought our project it did not have the shelf - and it is not
> really needed with the corvair, but we may put one in for a number of
> reasons.
>
> 1) It is easier to get to the nuts or nut plates on the upper engine
> mounts. If you leave the shelf out you can't really get a solid brace
> across the upper front fuselage because you need room to get a nut or
> two in there - if that makes sense. I'll get a picture if doesn't.
> 2) We have a header tank and currently the gas line out of it runs
> down into the front cockpit a bit and then heads through the
> firewall. If we do a shelf we can run the fuel line in the metal
> lined shelf and keep it out of the cockpit longer in the event of a
> crash. This would also give better access to the tank and its fuel
> line. I can attest to the fact that it is a pain to work on anything
> in the front cockpit when the firewall is on.
>
> Kirk
>
>
> >
> >I brought this up again because I need the comments of corvair builders.
> > What dimension have people been using for the firewall? In the plans
> >it shows a shelf, which I'm told is only for the Ford engines (space for
> >a starter I believe). Del is a Corvair builder so I'm interested in
> >hearing your opinion on this if you've gotten this far. Chris had
> >mentioned that you just make the firewall tall enough, but I'm unsure
> >what dimension that is. Maybe Wynne's conversion manual talks about an
> >engine mount. I'll have to check.
> >
> >I think Leon has a good idea in leaving the firewall off until controls
> >are built. I'll probalby leave the 1/2" OSB in place until that's
> >completed or until it gets in the way too many times.
> >
> >Tom B. MPLS
>
>
> --
> Kirk Huizenga and Bryan Eastep's Aircamper and Corvair Project
> http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList.cfm?Menu=PhotoGallery
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: firewall for corvair |
I think WW will send you the engine mount drawing if you email or
call him. There were also plans for the hub w/starter, the cutting of
the front (bellhousing) cover, a starter bracket, the safety shaft, .
From what I can see WW made two changes to the original corvair
mount. First he used square tubing for the bed of the mount - which I
would guess be a little more rigid and easier to deal with in welding
the spools on the bed. Second, he added a cross member to deal with
torque that goes from the left rear of the bed to the lower right
mount. Both seem like good ideas.
I can tell you that our mount is a bit wobbly when off the the plane
and engineless - adding the cross member would take care of all that
play.
My project also had the "normal" thrust line. The plywood part of the
firewall only filled the square of the fuselage, but the metal
covered the arc on top also. I think I'll do complete plywood
(including the arc) under the metal when it gets put back on.
Carl, when you talk about securing the center tubes, are you talking
about an extension off the "bed" of the mount? Our current mount has
extensions like that, but if we build another mount I wouldn't put
them on. I don't think they are needed.
Kirk
>
>The manual I recieved from Wm Wynn did not have the motor mount plans.
>Hmmm, have to write him about that. I used the Pietenpol plans for the
>corvair
>and put in the thrust line Bernie used.
>Kirk you are correct in securing the center tubes. All the weight is
>supported
>in the corner mounts.
>Carl
>----- Original Message -----
>From: The Huizenga's <kirkh@unique-software.com>
>To:
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: firewall for corvair
>
>
><kirkh@unique-software.com>
>>
>> Tom,
>>
>> William Wynn's manual does have engine mount plans in it. He also
>> gives a detailed explaining the construction. I believe that William
>> raised the thrust line on his, now destroyed, aircamper so that it
>> was level with the top longeron.
>>
>> I took a picture of our firewall and put some dimension on it and
>> will send it to you in another direct email. The basic dimensions for
>> it were 24.5 in wide (plus an extra 3/4" wrap around the sides and
>> bottom of the fuselage) and 22.5in tall before the arc on top. The
>> arc is about a 13" radius. The material ours was made of is 2024-T3
>> aluminum .032 thickness.
>>
>> In the rebuild we will probably use stainless, but that is yet to be
>decided.
>>
>> I know some people change the arc on top to fit their engine or to
>> make it look more rounded (a different radius arc - 12" I'd say -
>> would also give more room on the instrument panel if needed).
>>
>> When we bought our project it did not have the shelf - and it is not
>> really needed with the corvair, but we may put one in for a number of
>> reasons.
>>
>> 1) It is easier to get to the nuts or nut plates on the upper engine
>> mounts. If you leave the shelf out you can't really get a solid brace
>> across the upper front fuselage because you need room to get a nut or
>> two in there - if that makes sense. I'll get a picture if doesn't.
>> 2) We have a header tank and currently the gas line out of it runs
>> down into the front cockpit a bit and then heads through the
>> firewall. If we do a shelf we can run the fuel line in the metal
>> lined shelf and keep it out of the cockpit longer in the event of a
>> crash. This would also give better access to the tank and its fuel
>> line. I can attest to the fact that it is a pain to work on anything
>> in the front cockpit when the firewall is on.
>>
>> Kirk
>>
>>
>> >
>> >I brought this up again because I need the comments of corvair builders.
>> > What dimension have people been using for the firewall? In the plans
>> >it shows a shelf, which I'm told is only for the Ford engines (space for
> > >a starter I believe). Del is a Corvair builder so I'm interested in
> > >hearing your opinion on this if you've gotten this far. Chris had
> > >mentioned that you just make the firewall tall enough, but I'm unsure
>> >what dimension that is. Maybe Wynne's conversion manual talks about an
>> >engine mount. I'll have to check.
>> >
>> >I think Leon has a good idea in leaving the firewall off until controls
>> >are built. I'll probalby leave the 1/2" OSB in place until that's
>> >completed or until it gets in the way too many times.
>> >
>> >Tom B. MPLS
>>
>>
>> --
>> Kirk Huizenga and Bryan Eastep's Aircamper and Corvair Project
>> http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList.cfm?Menu=PhotoGallery
>>
>>
>
>
--
Kirk Huizenga and Bryan Eastep's Aircamper and Corvair Project
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList.cfm?Menu=PhotoGallery
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TWINBOOM" <TWINBOOM(at)email.msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall for corvair |
Tom,
Do you have Wynnes manual? If so, there should be a motor mount there
for a Corvair, I had one in mine.
Doug Blackburn
Doug/Elizabeth Blackburn
ArrowBear Lake Ca.
Inland Slope Rebels, Riverside Ca. http://inlandsloperebels.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brants" <tmbrant(at)uswest.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: firewall for corvair
>
> I brought this up again because I need the comments of corvair builders.
> What dimension have people been using for the firewall? In the plans
> it shows a shelf, which I'm told is only for the Ford engines (space for
> a starter I believe). Del is a Corvair builder so I'm interested in
> hearing your opinion on this if you've gotten this far. Chris had
> mentioned that you just make the firewall tall enough, but I'm unsure
> what dimension that is. Maybe Wynne's conversion manual talks about an
> engine mount. I'll have to check.
>
> I think Leon has a good idea in leaving the firewall off until controls
> are built. I'll probalby leave the 1/2" OSB in place until that's
> completed or until it gets in the way too many times.
>
> Tom B. MPLS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gdascomb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Piet Family History |
Try this :http://www.geocities.com/keriannprice/Keri-Anns_Pietenpol.html
________________________________________________________________________________
Oscar,
I have uploaded some pictures of the manifold that was on our project.
I met Vi at Brodhead this year. I knew that he had made the elevator
and rudder hinges for our plane (which was originally built in the
early '80's). As I was talking to him and looking over the parts he
had there, I realized that there were many parts exactly the same as
on our project.
I asked him if he remembered Hans Meyer (the builder's name on the
placard of our project, but who has either passed away or is no
longer at the address I have). Vi remember meeting Hans in the late
70's and in fact did make the prop hub, intake manifold (oil sleeve),
air intake bracket, manifold Y on top of the engine and the oil
filler tube for our project.
It was fun to figure out a little more history of our little bird.
The photos of the manifold at the web site below as well as some
while it was installed.
Kirk
--
Kirk Huizenga and Bryan Eastep's Aircamper and Corvair Project
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList.cfm?Menu=PhotoGallery
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skycarl" <skycarl(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall for corvair |
Kirk, I agree, I believe the tubing behind the engine really doesn't do
anything.
It does help line up the tubes on the jig when welding, but gives no support
as far
as strength goes. A friend of mine, Bill Poiry, did his with square tubing
for his
franklin 65 ( which is the same mount as our corvairs) and it looked real
good.
I ended up making two and I left the extra tubing on the final one.The main
thing is make sure the welds are solid.
Carl
ps On my firewall, I just used metal at the top and when it is secured to
the cowling
it becomes very strong and rigid.
----- Original Message -----
From: The Huizenga's <kirkh@unique-software.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: firewall for corvair
<kirkh@unique-software.com>
>
> I think WW will send you the engine mount drawing if you email or
> call him. There were also plans for the hub w/starter, the cutting of
> the front (bellhousing) cover, a starter bracket, the safety shaft, .
>
> From what I can see WW made two changes to the original corvair
> mount. First he used square tubing for the bed of the mount - which I
> would guess be a little more rigid and easier to deal with in welding
> the spools on the bed. Second, he added a cross member to deal with
> torque that goes from the left rear of the bed to the lower right
> mount. Both seem like good ideas.
>
> I can tell you that our mount is a bit wobbly when off the the plane
> and engineless - adding the cross member would take care of all that
> play.
>
> My project also had the "normal" thrust line. The plywood part of the
> firewall only filled the square of the fuselage, but the metal
> covered the arc on top also. I think I'll do complete plywood
> (including the arc) under the metal when it gets put back on.
>
> Carl, when you talk about securing the center tubes, are you talking
> about an extension off the "bed" of the mount? Our current mount has
> extensions like that, but if we build another mount I wouldn't put
> them on. I don't think they are needed.
>
> Kirk
>
>
> >
> >The manual I recieved from Wm Wynn did not have the motor mount plans.
> >Hmmm, have to write him about that. I used the Pietenpol plans for the
> >corvair
> >and put in the thrust line Bernie used.
> >Kirk you are correct in securing the center tubes. All the weight is
> >supported
> >in the corner mounts.
> >Carl
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: The Huizenga's <kirkh@unique-software.com>
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: firewall for corvair
> >
> >
> ><kirkh@unique-software.com>
> >>
> >> Tom,
> >>
> >> William Wynn's manual does have engine mount plans in it. He also
> >> gives a detailed explaining the construction. I believe that William
> >> raised the thrust line on his, now destroyed, aircamper so that it
> >> was level with the top longeron.
> >>
> >> I took a picture of our firewall and put some dimension on it and
> >> will send it to you in another direct email. The basic dimensions for
> >> it were 24.5 in wide (plus an extra 3/4" wrap around the sides and
> >> bottom of the fuselage) and 22.5in tall before the arc on top. The
> >> arc is about a 13" radius. The material ours was made of is 2024-T3
> >> aluminum .032 thickness.
> >>
> >> In the rebuild we will probably use stainless, but that is yet to be
> >decided.
> >>
> >> I know some people change the arc on top to fit their engine or to
> >> make it look more rounded (a different radius arc - 12" I'd say -
> >> would also give more room on the instrument panel if needed).
> >>
> >> When we bought our project it did not have the shelf - and it is not
> >> really needed with the corvair, but we may put one in for a number of
> >> reasons.
> >>
> >> 1) It is easier to get to the nuts or nut plates on the upper engine
> >> mounts. If you leave the shelf out you can't really get a solid brace
> >> across the upper front fuselage because you need room to get a nut or
> >> two in there - if that makes sense. I'll get a picture if doesn't.
> >> 2) We have a header tank and currently the gas line out of it runs
> >> down into the front cockpit a bit and then heads through the
> >> firewall. If we do a shelf we can run the fuel line in the metal
> >> lined shelf and keep it out of the cockpit longer in the event of a
> >> crash. This would also give better access to the tank and its fuel
> >> line. I can attest to the fact that it is a pain to work on anything
> >> in the front cockpit when the firewall is on.
> >>
> >> Kirk
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> >I brought this up again because I need the comments of corvair
builders.
> >> > What dimension have people been using for the firewall? In the
plans
> >> >it shows a shelf, which I'm told is only for the Ford engines (space
for
> > > >a starter I believe). Del is a Corvair builder so I'm interested in
> > > >hearing your opinion on this if you've gotten this far. Chris had
> > > >mentioned that you just make the firewall tall enough, but I'm
unsure
> >> >what dimension that is. Maybe Wynne's conversion manual talks about
an
> >> >engine mount. I'll have to check.
> >> >
> >> >I think Leon has a good idea in leaving the firewall off until
controls
> >> >are built. I'll probalby leave the 1/2" OSB in place until that's
> >> >completed or until it gets in the way too many times.
> >> >
> >> >Tom B. MPLS
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> Kirk Huizenga and Bryan Eastep's Aircamper and Corvair Project
> >>
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList.cfm?Menu=PhotoGallery
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Kirk Huizenga and Bryan Eastep's Aircamper and Corvair Project
> http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList.cfm?Menu=PhotoGallery
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary McNeel, Jr." <gmcneel(at)mykitplane.com> |
| Subject: | Rib materials for sale... |
I have all the capstrip for building ribs available for sale. Some are
pre-bent while getting ready to build the ribs. I have decided to table
building the Piet for the foreseeable future as I am smitten by the Graham
Lee Nieuport 12. I just don't want the wood sitting around useless. I had
not seen the GLee Nieuport 12 two place prior to starting the Piet. I wanted
an old time two place, but the WW1 planes really catch my eye.
32 pieces each of 6 foot top, 6 foot bottom and 5 footers for diagonals,
uprights and goofs.
1/4 x 1/2. AS&S P/N was 02-11700
It all came from AS&S.
I paid $80 for it plus shipping. Make me a fair offer an it is yours. Buyer
pays shipping and it will not take me a month and half to ship it out like
AS&S does.
PS - I plan to stay firmly in the group, though I am not exactly a very
active member. This is a great group and many, many great ideas come from
here.
Regards,
Gary P. McNeel, Jr.
MyKitPlane.com
EAA 665957
gmcneel(at)mykitplane.com
gmcneel(at)simdesk.com
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/buildLogReport.cfm?PlaneID=43
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/buildLogReport.cfm?PlaneID=68
"What's the hurry? Are you afraid I won't come back?"
Manfred von Richthofen, 'The Red Baron,' last recorded words, in reply to
a request for an autograph as he was climbing into the cockpit of his plane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jannica Wunge" <jannicaw(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 1.9 TDI Diesell |
Hello Pieters.
Funny that Allen Smith came up with this discussion about using a 1.9 litre
VW Diesel right now. Last weekend I meet my EAA controller and he suggested
the same solution for my Peit project. Where I live in the middle of Sweden
it seems impossible to get hold of a Corvair engine and I want something
more powerful than an A-Ford conversion. The idea of using a fuel-cooled
Continental does not fancy my wallet at all.
I am certainly going to look into this idea some more and it would be nice
if you guys keep sharing your ideas with the rest of us in this forum.
We have had the warmest summer in history in this country and I have not
wasted many days in the workshop. That is for the fall and the long winter.
Instead I have been flying my glider and towing other fellows with the clubs
PA-25 Pawnee. Very good landing training.
I have decided to stop using recorsinol-fenol adhesive witch I do not feel
is really up to the job and I am currently trying T-88 instead.
I am also going to use a built up spar. It will consist of 5 pieces of 1 x
1 ribs of fur glued together and then machined to the right size. The
Swedish EAA says that this will be more than sufficient.
Jannica Wunge
Borlange
Sweden
Med MSN Foto kan du enkelt dela med dig av dina fotografier och bestlla
kopior: http://photos.msn.se
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal(at)startribune.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Built up Spar |
Ken,
The article is from an early 60's Sport Aviation and pertains to I-beam
spars, not box spars.
I don't have a way to scan and post the article so I just mail it to
whoever wants one.
Greg
>>> ken(at)polarcomm.com 08/14/02 11:02AM >>>
Greg
I have heard of the box spar that I think you were talking of at one
time
but a biult up spar? I don't remember hearing of this on the list. Could
you
post this on the web somewhere and let us know where it is at.
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Cardinal <gcardinal(at)startribune.com>
Date: Tuesday, August 13, 2002 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Built up Spar
>
>Matt,
>I have a good article on designing built up spars. Send an SASE to me
>for a copy.
>
>Greg Cardinal
>5236 Shoreview Ave. So.
>Minneapolis, MN 55417
>
>>>> steamlaunch(at)softhome.net 08/09/02 11:27PM >>>
>
>
>Hello,
>
>Has anyone ever used a built up spar with a plywood web on a piet?
Would
>it still be
>considered a piet. BP laminated Spars out of dimensional wood. This
>would merely be a
>variation of the theme.
>
>Matt
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steamlaunch(at)softhome.net |
| Subject: | Re: 1.9 TDI Diesell |
I have thought about this a few years ago, attached are some curves and
details on the industrial applications motor. Good luck it looks heavy at
135kg with a large alternator before cooling system but I will keep an eye
on progress in this area. JP fuel is cheaper and safer and once compresion
if ignition is running little can go wrong except I believe the Direct
Injection is controlled by a non redundant solidstate computer. I believe in
germany the same motor is chipped for 140hp and aftermarket chips are
availble in the states that accomplish the same. Possibly a chiped motor
coud get 65hp at some usable RPM.
Matt
Jannica Wunge writes:
>
> Hello Pieters.
>
> Funny that Allen Smith came up with this discussion about using a 1.9 litre
> VW Diesel right now. Last weekend I meet my EAA controller and he suggested
> the same solution for my Peit project. Where I live in the middle of Sweden
> it seems impossible to get hold of a Corvair engine and I want something
> more powerful than an A-Ford conversion. The idea of using a fuel-cooled
> Continental does not fancy my wallet at all.
> I am certainly going to look into this idea some more and it would be nice
> if you guys keep sharing your ideas with the rest of us in this forum.
>
> We have had the warmest summer in history in this country and I have not
> wasted many days in the workshop. That is for the fall and the long winter.
> Instead I have been flying my glider and towing other fellows with the clubs
> PA-25 Pawnee. Very good landing training.
> I have decided to stop using recorsinol-fenol adhesive witch I do not feel
> is really up to the job and I am currently trying T-88 instead.
> I am also going to use a built up spar. It will consist of 5 pieces of 1 x
> 1 ribs of fur glued together and then machined to the right size. The
> Swedish EAA says that this will be more than sufficient.
>
> Jannica Wunge
> Borlange
> Sweden
>
>
> Med MSN Foto kan du enkelt dela med dig av dina fotografier och bestlla
> kopior: http://photos.msn.se
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dpaul" <dpaul(at)tigernet.missouri.org> |
Hello,
I understand that there is a fly-in at Creve Coeur Airport (near St.
Louis) on September 28th and 29th. It has a WWI theme, however, I was
wondering if anyone on the list knew if a Pietenpol may show up.
Perhaps a Pietenpol owner will fly over simply to see the show. Last
year, a wide variety of planes stopped in. The Creve Coeur bunch have a
very nice facility and a great little show.
I just got started on a Pietenpol and would love meet someone who
owns a Piet.
Thanks, Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Bell" <mikebell(at)sc.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 08/18/02 |
http://naca.larc.nasa.gov/reports/1920/naca-report-35/
go here for a detailed article for built up spars
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | VW 1.9 TDI Engine |
| From: | rhartwig11(at)juno.com |
After purchasing a VW TDI and driving it for a few hundred mile I also
started wondering if it would be a good aircraft engine. The fact that
it develops maximum torque at around 1900 rpm was very intriguing, but
after owning the care for over a year and driving it many thousand miles
I am having second thoughts. I would suggest anyone thinking of trying
the VW Turbo Diesel as an aircraft engine first talk to dealer
technicians and owners. I love my 2000 TDI and the 45mpg fuel economy,
but the engine does have some expensive problems. At 37,000 miles the
car developed a "flat spot" in the acceleration. I was told that the
intake system had "carboned up." I had never heard of such a problem in
an engine. The intake system had to be removed (I assume this included
the turbo.) and sent to a specialty shop to be cleaned. I am thankful
that this $700 problem was covered by warranty. The acceleration problem
seemed corrected at first, but then returned. I took the car in again
for service and to have this problem checked. I am now told that a
several hundred dollar diagnosis will have to be done and that the
solution may be another several hundred dollars. The car is out of
warranty, but I am applying for extended warranty because of the
continuing problem. The dealer technical representative tells me that
this is a very common problem that VW is "working on", but there is no
sure solution yet.
The expenses will hopefully all be covered by warranty, but unfortunately
if the engine were in an airplane.......well....no need for further
explanation. I would also be concerned about the vibration of a diesel
in an airplane. In an automobile you can add vibration absorption here
and a little weight there and come up with great vibration isolation.
That would be a little more difficult in an aircraft.
Dick Hartwig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John_Duprey(at)vmed.org |
| Subject: | Re: VW 1.9 TDI Engine |
08/19/2002 09:44:04 AM
Dick: Having been down a similar road with a Toyota, I suggest you take the
car to a knowlagable non dealer for an opinion. It sounds like your dealer
May be taking you for a ride in your own car. Just my opinion. Good Luck!
John Duprey
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall for corvair |
Hi Tom
I built my firewall per plans, I havn't mounted the
engine to know how it fits, but I don't expect any
problems, my gas tank sits on the top longerons and is
a perfect half circle.
Del
--- Brants wrote:
>
>
> I brought this up again because I need the comments
> of corvair builders.
> What dimension have people been using for the
> firewall? In the plans
> it shows a shelf, which I'm told is only for the
> Ford engines (space for
> a starter I believe). Del is a Corvair builder so
> I'm interested in
> hearing your opinion on this if you've gotten this
> far. Chris had
> mentioned that you just make the firewall tall
> enough, but I'm unsure
> what dimension that is. Maybe Wynne's conversion
> manual talks about an
> engine mount. I'll have to check.
>
> I think Leon has a good idea in leaving the firewall
> off until controls
> are built. I'll probalby leave the 1/2" OSB in
> place until that's
> completed or until it gets in the way too many
> times.
>
> Tom B. MPLS
>
>
>
> Forum -
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: firewall for corvair |
--- del magsam wrote:
>
>
> Hi Tom
> I built my firewall per plans,
I mean't as far as dimensions are concerned, I didn't
have a need for the shelf, so its one solid firewall
top to bottom, with a half circle on top to cover the
front of the tank. it is thin ply covered with a
stainless piece.
del
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | firewall-Corvair |
Tom wrote:
>Another question about the firewall. Do I build it per the plans no
>matter what engine I use? It looks like it's kinda got a "shelf"
>behind it. I'm using a corvair.
I don't see how or why that shelf would be required in the Corvair
application. Take a look at how William Wynne's installation ended up (side
view), the last image on this page:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/corvair/wwrear.html
And I'd encourage you to call William for more information on engine
mount/firewall for the Corvair installation on the Piet, as he is always
helpful and willing to talk. The number is on his website at
http://www.flycorvair.com
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Grentzer" <flyboy_120(at)hotmail.com> |
Hey group...I'm trying to fill out form 8050-88 ( Affidavit of
ownership for ameture built aircraft) so I can reserve my N #.
The form asks for the Manufacturer's name, model and serial number.
I looked in the archives and one fellow said he used the serial
number assigned to his plans. I've looked all over my plans and the
paperwork that came with them and I don't find any numbers. So my
questions are 1. do I use MY name as the Manufacturer and 2. Do I use
Air Camper or Pietenpol Air Camper for the model and 3. Where do I get
a serial number. Also..does anyone still sell those neat Pietenpol
identification plates that I saw in some planes up at Brodhead?
Thanks in advance Ed Grentzer
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John_Duprey(at)vmed.org |
08/20/2002 09:38:34 AM
Hi Ed:
1. do I use MY name as the Manufacturer
YES.
2. Do I use Air Camper or Pietenpol Air Camper for the model
YES.
3. Where do I get a serial number.
It is the first Pietenpol Aircamper you have constructed Right?
So use #1 or 100 or whatever you like...
John
"Ed Grentzer" (at)matronics.com on 08/20/2002 08:15:42
AM
Please respond to pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent by: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Serial #s
Hey group...I'm trying to fill out form 8050-88 ( Affidavit of
ownership for ameture built aircraft) so I can reserve my N #.
The form asks for the Manufacturer's name, model and serial number.
I looked in the archives and one fellow said he used the serial
number assigned to his plans. I've looked all over my plans and the
paperwork that came with them and I don't find any numbers. So my
questions are 1. do I use MY name as the Manufacturer and 2. Do I use
Air Camper or Pietenpol Air Camper for the model and 3. Where do I get
a serial number. Also..does anyone still sell those neat Pietenpol
identification plates that I saw in some planes up at Brodhead?
Thanks in advance Ed Grentzer
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hubbard, Eugene" <ehubbard(at)titan.com> |
I got a serial number in the instruction booklet.
Gene
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Grentzer [mailto:flyboy_120(at)hotmail.com]
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Serial #s
Hey group...I'm trying to fill out form 8050-88 ( Affidavit of
ownership for ameture built aircraft) so I can reserve my N #.
The form asks for the Manufacturer's name, model and serial number.
I looked in the archives and one fellow said he used the serial
number assigned to his plans. I've looked all over my plans and the
paperwork that came with them and I don't find any numbers. So my
questions are 1. do I use MY name as the Manufacturer and 2. Do I use
Air Camper or Pietenpol Air Camper for the model and 3. Where do I get
a serial number. Also..does anyone still sell those neat Pietenpol
identification plates that I saw in some planes up at Brodhead?
Thanks in advance Ed Grentzer
http://www.hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Maynard" <ken(at)polarcomm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 5 Msgs - 08/18/02 |
Thanks Mike
So much to read and so little time.
Ken
>
> http://naca.larc.nasa.gov/reports/1920/naca-report-35/
>
> go here for a detailed article for built up spars
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hubbard, Eugene" <ehubbard(at)titan.com> |
Hi Ed,
I'm not pulling your leg--at least not this time. I got a (very thin) comb
bound "builder's manual" with my plans--I don't remember if it was priced
separately or not. It contains the serial number, some building
instructions about on the level of the F&G text, and some rudimentary Q&A,
most of which isn't very useful. For example, after saying there is no
reason to update the plans, there's a statement to the effect that all
modern airplanes should have brakes--put some on. There are just enough
useful details that I try to remember to look at it every few months. Don't
feel too bad that you don't have one.
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | flyboy_120(at)webtv.net (Ed G.) |
Gene I just got home from work and looked in that manual. I bought it
with my plans but paid for it seperately so I never considered it to be
related. On page Iv is a little cartoon biplane towing a banner with my
name, the date and Don Pietenpol's autogragh.Above it it says
" this is copy 061791AAD and then hand written 457 I guess that's my
serial # 457. Do you think that's it???? Thanks a lot Gene , I would
never had thought to look in there if it wasn't for your reply. Is this
list great , or what! Thanks again.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
You can make the serial number anything you want for the FAA. If you
want to use 457 you can, but you could also use 1 or 849320 - they
don't care unless you make another aircamper - then it would need a
different serial number.
That's my understanding
Kirk
>
>Gene I just got home from work and looked in that manual. I bought it
>with my plans but paid for it seperately so I never considered it to be
>related. On page Iv is a little cartoon biplane towing a banner with my
>name, the date and Don Pietenpol's autogragh.Above it it says
>" this is copy 061791AAD and then hand written 457 I guess that's my
>serial # 457. Do you think that's it???? Thanks a lot Gene , I would
>never had thought to look in there if it wasn't for your reply. Is this
>list great , or what! Thanks again.
> Ed
>
>
--
Kirk Huizenga and Bryan Eastep's Aircamper and Corvair Project
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList.cfm?Menu=PhotoGallery
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu> |
That's right. Mine is SDEaircamper 001. just incase I want to build
another 998 of them....
Steve E
-----Original Message-----
From: The Huizenga's [mailto:kirkh@unique-software.com]
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Serial #s
<kirkh@unique-software.com>
You can make the serial number anything you want for the FAA. If you
want to use 457 you can, but you could also use 1 or 849320 - they
don't care unless you make another aircamper - then it would need a
different serial number.
That's my understanding
Kirk
>
>Gene I just got home from work and looked in that manual. I bought it
>with my plans but paid for it seperately so I never considered it to be
>related. On page Iv is a little cartoon biplane towing a banner with my
>name, the date and Don Pietenpol's autogragh.Above it it says
>" this is copy 061791AAD and then hand written 457 I guess that's my
>serial # 457. Do you think that's it???? Thanks a lot Gene , I would
>never had thought to look in there if it wasn't for your reply. Is this
>list great , or what! Thanks again.
> Ed
>
>
--
Kirk Huizenga and Bryan Eastep's Aircamper and Corvair Project
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList.cfm?Menu=PhotoGallery
=
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
For my ser # I used the birth years of my three kids. #737678
walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Grentzer" <flyboy_120(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Serial #s
>
>
> Hey group...I'm trying to fill out form 8050-88 ( Affidavit of
> ownership for ameture built aircraft) so I can reserve my N #.
> The form asks for the Manufacturer's name, model and serial number.
> I looked in the archives and one fellow said he used the serial
> number assigned to his plans. I've looked all over my plans and the
> paperwork that came with them and I don't find any numbers. So my
> questions are 1. do I use MY name as the Manufacturer and 2. Do I use
> Air Camper or Pietenpol Air Camper for the model and 3. Where do I get
> a serial number. Also..does anyone still sell those neat Pietenpol
> identification plates that I saw in some planes up at Brodhead?
> Thanks in advance Ed Grentzer
>
> http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary McNeel, Jr." <gmcneel(at)mykitplane.com> |
| Subject: | OT Children, was Serial #s |
Walt, you are a MACHINE. I should have had all mine that close together. My
son is 5 now and my wife is talking about another one. Oi!
-Gary
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of walter
> evans
> Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 4:40 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Serial #s
>
>
>
>
> For my ser # I used the birth years of my three kids. #737678
> walt
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ed Grentzer" <flyboy_120(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Serial #s
>
>
>
> >
> >
> > Hey group...I'm trying to fill out form 8050-88 ( Affidavit of
> > ownership for ameture built aircraft) so I can reserve my N #.
> > The form asks for the Manufacturer's name, model and serial number.
> > I looked in the archives and one fellow said he used the serial
> > number assigned to his plans. I've looked all over my plans and the
> > paperwork that came with them and I don't find any numbers. So my
> > questions are 1. do I use MY name as the Manufacturer and 2. Do I use
> > Air Camper or Pietenpol Air Camper for the model and 3. Where do I get
> > a serial number. Also..does anyone still sell those neat Pietenpol
> > identification plates that I saw in some planes up at Brodhead?
> > Thanks in advance Ed Grentzer
> >
> > http://www.hotmail.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | javier cruz <javcr(at)yahoo.com> |
Hi Friends
Hi Ed
When i requested the autorization for build my plane
from the DGAC here in Mexico ( something like FAA in
USA) the inspector request for the serial number of
the kit, but ,because it's not build from kit, or we
not have any company that make the kit the
manufacturer are us, and the serial number should be
assigned for us, here, the Piet maybe will be the 001
manual, and on the inspector words that number it's
wrong like airplane serial number, well that in
Mexico, just for comment, maybe the FAA procedures are
different.. don't worry about that..
On the other hand, i would like some help from the
group.. i have complete the fuselage (whitout the
sides for better access), tail grouop, flight
controls, engine etc. And i would like varnish the
wood, Polyfiber recomend epoxy varnish, but here in
Mexico it's very hard to get it, and the cost for the
shipping is very hard,, what do you recomend? maybe
spar, polyuretane etc...I kow this topic has been here
before, but any new comments are welcomed..
Thanks in advance for your comments..
Javier Cruz
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratril" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
Hey all
I am at a real frustrating point. I want to get my A-65 started for the
first time but am running into one small but large problem.
I installed a mechanical oil temperature guage purchaced from ACS. The
ACS part # is OT040. The sender has a 5/8x18 NF fitting which has to
fit into a 5/8 NFF x 1/2 NPTM adapter. This forms the seal for the
sender. Now I cant find an adapter to take the 1/2 NPTM to plug into
the oil screen cover which is 5/8x18 NFF.
I have been discussing this with the manufacturer and ACS and they both
act like it's the first time this problem has ever come up. Since the
guage is installed and the box is long gone ACS doesn"t want it back.
Has anyone else run into this? Would it be acceptable to drill out and
re-tap the oil screen cover to 1/2" NPT?
Thanks
Dick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temp guage |
no, do not drill the screen! The part you need is a standard part, I've
been through this. Let me look at work tomorrow and find the p/n.
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Navratril <horzpool(at)goldengate.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: oil temp guage
>
> Hey all
> I am at a real frustrating point. I want to get my A-65 started for the
> first time but am running into one small but large problem.
> I installed a mechanical oil temperature guage purchaced from ACS. The
> ACS part # is OT040. The sender has a 5/8x18 NF fitting which has to
> fit into a 5/8 NFF x 1/2 NPTM adapter. This forms the seal for the
> sender. Now I cant find an adapter to take the 1/2 NPTM to plug into
> the oil screen cover which is 5/8x18 NFF.
> I have been discussing this with the manufacturer and ACS and they both
> act like it's the first time this problem has ever come up. Since the
> guage is installed and the box is long gone ACS doesn"t want it back.
> Has anyone else run into this? Would it be acceptable to drill out and
> re-tap the oil screen cover to 1/2" NPT?
> Thanks
> Dick
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temp guage |
Hi Richard
I don't know what the oil screen looks like, but if
you show it to a machinest, he would know if it
sacrificed any strength etc. sounds like something you
would want to take off of the engine to do, obviously.
another option maybe turning the adapter down on the
lathe and running a die on it. or maybe turning out an
entire new adapter on a lathe. I'm just throwing
thoughts out, I don't know what it all looks like.
Del
--- Richard Navratril wrote:
> Navratril"
>
> Hey all
> I am at a real frustrating point. I want to get my
> A-65 started for the
> first time but am running into one small but large
> problem.
> I installed a mechanical oil temperature guage
> purchaced from ACS. The
> ACS part # is OT040. The sender has a 5/8x18 NF
> fitting which has to
> fit into a 5/8 NFF x 1/2 NPTM adapter. This forms
> the seal for the
> sender. Now I cant find an adapter to take the 1/2
> NPTM to plug into
> the oil screen cover which is 5/8x18 NFF.
> I have been discussing this with the manufacturer
> and ACS and they both
> act like it's the first time this problem has ever
> come up. Since the
> guage is installed and the box is long gone ACS
> doesn"t want it back.
> Has anyone else run into this? Would it be
> acceptable to drill out and
> re-tap the oil screen cover to 1/2" NPT?
> Thanks
> Dick
>
>
>
> Forum -
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brants" <tmbrant(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | more piet construction |
Well, it seems sometimes you just get on a roll and don't want to stop.
Building from wood is so fun and rewarding, you get to see progress each
time you work. I have worked with my brother building a One Design
(4130 tube) and the progress is much much slower. I'm sure I'll run
into things that slow me down eventually though...
Tonight I took on cutting the tailpost angles. It turned out very good
using Bill Rewey's method of a hand saw and smoothing it out with a
block plane and sanding block. It's glued up now and this weekend, the
plan is to get the rest of the struts and braces installed, as well as
some of the top and bottom gussets. I've heard many people put the
tailpost gussets on before removing from the jig in order to limit
stress in the glue joint.
If interested http://public.fotki.com/tab1324/pietenpol_construction/
I've posted several new photos of my progress.
Tom Brant, MPLS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary McNeel, Jr." <gmcneel(at)mykitplane.com> |
| Subject: | more piet construction |
Looking great Tom. You are going to make be regret not building the Piet in
favor of the Nieuport. ;)
-Gary
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brants
> Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2002 11:40 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: more piet construction
>
>
> Well, it seems sometimes you just get on a roll and don't want to stop.
> Building from wood is so fun and rewarding, you get to see progress each
> time you work. I have worked with my brother building a One Design
> (4130 tube) and the progress is much much slower. I'm sure I'll run
> into things that slow me down eventually though...
>
> Tonight I took on cutting the tailpost angles. It turned out very good
> using Bill Rewey's method of a hand saw and smoothing it out with a
> block plane and sanding block. It's glued up now and this weekend, the
> plan is to get the rest of the struts and braces installed, as well as
> some of the top and bottom gussets. I've heard many people put the
> tailpost gussets on before removing from the jig in order to limit
> stress in the glue joint.
>
> If interested http://public.fotki.com/tab1324/pietenpol_construction/
> I've posted several new photos of my progress.
>
> Tom Brant, MPLS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | more Piet construction |
| From: | "Kent Hallsten" <KHallsten(at)governair.com> |
Tom,
It looks great! Your saw looks like mine, is it the shark tooth type?
I use mine a lot so far to cut blocks, etc. Where did you get Bill Reweys method
from? I suppose a newsletter? I worry about myself using a handsaw to cut
nice even cuts that mate up, what's your secret? I never seemed to get 90'
cuts on 2x4 's for the workbench.
I like your camera too, I'm saving for the 2800 now.
Kent Hallsten
Oklahoma City
Tonight I took on cutting the tailpost angles. It turned out very good
using Bill Rewey's method of a hand saw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Grentzer" <flyboy_120(at)hotmail.com> |
Hi Javier....Good to see that your still out there. Haven't seen any posts
from you lately. Polyurethane or spar varnish is fine for protecting the
wood from moisture but they say that the MEK in most fabric cements will
soften these varnishes where the fabric is glued to
it. If you can't get epoxy varnish you could protect the regular varnish
where the fabric is glued by coating it with thin epoxy resin, the type used
in marine repairs. Something like the Gudgeon (sp) brothers West system
epoxy which brushes on real nicely or any other brand which is similar in
thickness. I've heard some guys say that they have glued the fabric right on
to Polyurethane varnish but it might depend on the brand of varnish or just
plain luck. Glad to hear your still building. Ed G.
>From: javier cruz <javcr(at)yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Serial #s
>Date: Tue, 20 Aug 2002 18:56:47 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>Hi Friends
>Hi Ed
>
>When i requested the autorization for build my plane
>from the DGAC here in Mexico ( something like FAA in
>USA) the inspector request for the serial number of
>the kit, but ,because it's not build from kit, or we
>not have any company that make the kit the
>manufacturer are us, and the serial number should be
>assigned for us, here, the Piet maybe will be the 001
>manual, and on the inspector words that number it's
>wrong like airplane serial number, well that in
>Mexico, just for comment, maybe the FAA procedures are
>different.. don't worry about that..
>On the other hand, i would like some help from the
>group.. i have complete the fuselage (whitout the
>sides for better access), tail grouop, flight
>controls, engine etc. And i would like varnish the
>wood, Polyfiber recomend epoxy varnish, but here in
>Mexico it's very hard to get it, and the cost for the
>shipping is very hard,, what do you recomend? maybe
>spar, polyuretane etc...I kow this topic has been here
>before, but any new comments are welcomed..
>
>Thanks in advance for your comments..
>Javier Cruz
>
>
>HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
>http://www.hotjobs.com
>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu> |
I wonder why I didn't have this same problem. Mine is an automotive
gauge and a brass adapter from the hardware store.
Steve e
-----Original Message-----
From: del magsam [mailto:farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com]
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: oil temp guage
Hi Richard
I don't know what the oil screen looks like, but if
you show it to a machinest, he would know if it
sacrificed any strength etc. sounds like something you
would want to take off of the engine to do, obviously.
another option maybe turning the adapter down on the
lathe and running a die on it. or maybe turning out an
entire new adapter on a lathe. I'm just throwing
thoughts out, I don't know what it all looks like.
Del
--- Richard Navratril wrote:
> Navratril"
>
> Hey all
> I am at a real frustrating point. I want to get my
> A-65 started for the
> first time but am running into one small but large
> problem.
> I installed a mechanical oil temperature guage
> purchaced from ACS. The
> ACS part # is OT040. The sender has a 5/8x18 NF
> fitting which has to
> fit into a 5/8 NFF x 1/2 NPTM adapter. This forms
> the seal for the
> sender. Now I cant find an adapter to take the 1/2
> NPTM to plug into
> the oil screen cover which is 5/8x18 NFF.
> I have been discussing this with the manufacturer
> and ACS and they both
> act like it's the first time this problem has ever
> come up. Since the
> guage is installed and the box is long gone ACS
> doesn"t want it back.
> Has anyone else run into this? Would it be
> acceptable to drill out and
> re-tap the oil screen cover to 1/2" NPT?
> Thanks
> Dick
>
>
>
> Forum -
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs
http://www.hotjobs.com
=
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Myers <jmyers(at)powernet.org> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temp guage |
Richard,
I found an adapter at a very good local plumbing supply and hardware
store. I also added a short brass nipple and coupling to increase the
amount of oil in the screen area to help prime the oil pump. That extra
ounce or so of oil helped eliminate oil pump priming problems that I was
having. Oil temp seems to still read the same, but still too cold to burn
off moisture. Hope that helps
John Myers
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu> |
Now there is something we haven't addressed and I have the same, cool
oil problem! Anyone have any suggestions about how to get the temp up?
On a hot day I get the needle to push just over 100 degrees.
Steve e.
-----Original Message-----
From: John Myers [mailto:jmyers(at)powernet.org]
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: oil temp guage
Richard,
I found an adapter at a very good local plumbing supply and hardware
store. I also added a short brass nipple and coupling to increase the
amount of oil in the screen area to help prime the oil pump. That extra
ounce or so of oil helped eliminate oil pump priming problems that I was
having. Oil temp seems to still read the same, but still too cold to
burn
off moisture. Hope that helps
John Myers
>
=
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Myers <jmyers(at)powernet.org> |
Steve, if that is 100 C that is probably good, because at some other place
in the engine it will probably be 105 C or more, but 100 F is not near hot
enough. I usually get about 170 to 180 F on a hot day and I haven't seen
any other 65 get much hotter than that. I would expect that a 75 may get a
little warmer oil because it is squirted up on the hot cylinders from the
rods for cooling, thereby heating up the oil slightly. Sorry no
suggestions, other than I guess we could put 75 rods in or drill the
existing ones. I won't tear it down for just that problem, but I do
change oil a little more often. Gosh, 4 quarts is not near as bad as 8, 10
or 12 in the big bores.
John
>
>Now there is something we haven't addressed and I have the same, cool
>oil problem! Anyone have any suggestions about how to get the temp up?
>On a hot day I get the needle to push just over 100 degrees.
>
>Steve e.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brants" <tmbrant(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: more Piet construction |
Secret is, there is no secret. I have very rarely used a handsaw in my
life... I used to do a lot of construction and cabinetmaking and still
never used a handsaw. You just have to mark it out correctly and make a
nice slow even cut.
I don't know if Bill Rewey can "claim" this method - he's just the one I
heard it from at Oshkosh. I just happened to tell him about my project and
asked how he made that joint.
Whenever you're physically around Piet builders, ask questions. It's always
interesting to hear the answers.
Tom B.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kent Hallsten" <KHallsten(at)governair.com>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: more Piet construction
>
> Tom,
> It looks great! Your saw looks like mine, is it the shark tooth
type? I use mine a lot so far to cut blocks, etc. Where did you get Bill
Reweys method from? I suppose a newsletter? I worry about myself using a
handsaw to cut nice even cuts that mate up, what's your secret? I never
seemed to get 90' cuts on 2x4 's for the workbench.
>
> I like your camera too, I'm saving for the 2800 now.
>
> Kent Hallsten
> Oklahoma City
>
>
> Tonight I took on cutting the tailpost angles. It turned out very good
> using Bill Rewey's method of a hand saw
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net> |
I used to have the same problem in my old J-3 Cub. I bought a kit (from
Wag-Aero, I think) back in the 1970's that included a blanket to wrap around
the oil sump and muffs for the intake tubes. I also used to put a piece of
duct tape over the cowling inlet that blew cool air over the oil sump.
Didn't help much as I recall. Best thing probably is to change the oil more
frequently.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve
Eldredge
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: oil temp guage
Now there is something we haven't addressed and I have the same, cool
oil problem! Anyone have any suggestions about how to get the temp up?
On a hot day I get the needle to push just over 100 degrees.
Steve e.
-----Original Message-----
From: John Myers [mailto:jmyers(at)powernet.org]
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: oil temp guage
Richard,
I found an adapter at a very good local plumbing supply and hardware
store. I also added a short brass nipple and coupling to increase the
amount of oil in the screen area to help prime the oil pump. That extra
ounce or so of oil helped eliminate oil pump priming problems that I was
having. Oil temp seems to still read the same, but still too cold to
burn
off moisture. Hope that helps
John Myers
>
=
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Grentzer" <flyboy_120(at)hotmail.com> |
Speaking of oil cooling.....Does anyone out there know if I need to run an
oil cooler on my 75hp Franklin? The intake runners are cast
into the oil pan/sump. Seems to me this would provide quite a bit of oil
cooling in itself. It doesn't sound to me like anyone is running oil coolers
on the A65s. Thanks in advance Ed G.
>From: "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: oil temp guage
>Date: Thu, 22 Aug 2002 05:58:04 -0400
>
>
>
>I used to have the same problem in my old J-3 Cub. I bought a kit (from
>Wag-Aero, I think) back in the 1970's that included a blanket to wrap
>around
>the oil sump and muffs for the intake tubes. I also used to put a piece of
>duct tape over the cowling inlet that blew cool air over the oil sump.
>Didn't help much as I recall. Best thing probably is to change the oil
>more
>frequently.
>
>Jack
>
> -----Original Message-----
>From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve
>Eldredge
>Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2002 12:44 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: oil temp guage
>
>
>Now there is something we haven't addressed and I have the same, cool
>oil problem! Anyone have any suggestions about how to get the temp up?
>On a hot day I get the needle to push just over 100 degrees.
>
>Steve e.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: John Myers [mailto:jmyers(at)powernet.org]
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: oil temp guage
>
>
>Richard,
>I found an adapter at a very good local plumbing supply and hardware
>store. I also added a short brass nipple and coupling to increase the
>amount of oil in the screen area to help prime the oil pump. That extra
>
>ounce or so of oil helped eliminate oil pump priming problems that I was
>
>having. Oil temp seems to still read the same, but still too cold to
>burn
>off moisture. Hope that helps
>John Myers
>
> >
>
>
>>>>http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
>>
>
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | oil temp accuracty-65 Continentals |
Group,
Being single at the time, I had time to play with some boiling water on the
stove and my oil temp. gauge and sensor bulb. (analog, no sending
unit) As per Tony Bingelis, and the rules of nature, the gauge should
read 212 F when the water starts to boil. An easy way to check your
unit----less it is already cinched down in the airframe.
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal(at)startribune.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temp accuracty-65 Continentals |
This is a good test but you guys in the mountains will have to adjust
for altitude.
At 18000 ft water will boil at approx. 180 deg F
Greg Cardinal
>>> Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov 08/22/02 09:19AM >>>
Group,
Being single at the time, I had time to play with some boiling water on
the
stove and my oil temp. gauge and sensor bulb. (analog, no sending
unit) As per Tony Bingelis, and the rules of nature, the gauge should
read 212 F when the water starts to boil. An easy way to check your
unit----less it is already cinched down in the airframe.
Mike C.
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LAWRENCE WILLIAMS" <lnawms(at)msn.com> |
A decision to hold your bladder will be met by a headwind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <mes(at)megalink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temp guage |
I have a side by side piet with A65 and my oil temps will run 180-200 on hot
day. Clyinders are not out like J3 style. I'd like cool my down a little.
mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: oil temp guage
>
> Now there is something we haven't addressed and I have the same, cool
> oil problem! Anyone have any suggestions about how to get the temp up?
> On a hot day I get the needle to push just over 100 degrees.
>
> Steve e.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Myers [mailto:jmyers(at)powernet.org]
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: oil temp guage
>
>
> Richard,
> I found an adapter at a very good local plumbing supply and hardware
> store. I also added a short brass nipple and coupling to increase the
> amount of oil in the screen area to help prime the oil pump. That extra
>
> ounce or so of oil helped eliminate oil pump priming problems that I was
>
> having. Oil temp seems to still read the same, but still too cold to
> burn
> off moisture. Hope that helps
> John Myers
>
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratril" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temp guage |
Hi Gene
Any luck on that part number? I'm still hunting and no luck yet.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: oil temp guage
>
> no, do not drill the screen! The part you need is a standard part, I've
> been through this. Let me look at work tomorrow and find the p/n.
>
> Gene
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Richard Navratril <horzpool(at)goldengate.net>
> To:
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: oil temp guage
>
>
>
> >
> > Hey all
> > I am at a real frustrating point. I want to get my A-65 started for the
> > first time but am running into one small but large problem.
> > I installed a mechanical oil temperature guage purchaced from ACS. The
> > ACS part # is OT040. The sender has a 5/8x18 NF fitting which has to
> > fit into a 5/8 NFF x 1/2 NPTM adapter. This forms the seal for the
> > sender. Now I cant find an adapter to take the 1/2 NPTM to plug into
> > the oil screen cover which is 5/8x18 NFF.
> > I have been discussing this with the manufacturer and ACS and they both
> > act like it's the first time this problem has ever come up. Since the
> > guage is installed and the box is long gone ACS doesn"t want it back.
> > Has anyone else run into this? Would it be acceptable to drill out and
> > re-tap the oil screen cover to 1/2" NPT?
> > Thanks
> > Dick
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net> |
Richard and corky
try fresno airparts 559 237 4863 or robert weber inc 559 275 3403 or ask
Corky to get one from Mr. Harvey at Lucien Field. Corky?
chris
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Richard
Navratril
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: oil temp guage
Hi Gene
Any luck on that part number? I'm still hunting and no luck yet.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: oil temp guage
>
> no, do not drill the screen! The part you need is a standard part, I've
> been through this. Let me look at work tomorrow and find the p/n.
>
> Gene
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Richard Navratril <horzpool(at)goldengate.net>
> To:
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: oil temp guage
>
>
>
> >
> > Hey all
> > I am at a real frustrating point. I want to get my A-65 started for the
> > first time but am running into one small but large problem.
> > I installed a mechanical oil temperature guage purchaced from ACS. The
> > ACS part # is OT040. The sender has a 5/8x18 NF fitting which has to
> > fit into a 5/8 NFF x 1/2 NPTM adapter. This forms the seal for the
> > sender. Now I cant find an adapter to take the 1/2 NPTM to plug into
> > the oil screen cover which is 5/8x18 NFF.
> > I have been discussing this with the manufacturer and ACS and they both
> > act like it's the first time this problem has ever come up. Since the
> > guage is installed and the box is long gone ACS doesn"t want it back.
> > Has anyone else run into this? Would it be acceptable to drill out and
> > re-tap the oil screen cover to 1/2" NPT?
> > Thanks
> > Dick
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isablcorky(at)aol.com |
Wayne,
Thanks for the reply. It's funny that I'm sending my carb this am to
Lafayette, but the one in New Jersey. An old AP, Dick Lawson, has agreed to
operate on this sick child.
I hold no quarrel with yankees or hoosiers, I married one. Unfortunately her
baby sister died yesterday in Plainfield and we will be there until Tuesday.
Corky in La
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: oil temp guage |
Sorry, I have been busy, bought a new airplane and have been running around
like crazy negotiating, then pre-purchase inspection, AD search, title
search, now post-purchase insurance, tie down, etc. Slowing down a little
now, I'll look today . . . .I promise.
Gene
do not post
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Navratril <horzpool(at)goldengate.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: oil temp guage
>
> Hi Gene
> Any luck on that part number? I'm still hunting and no luck yet.
> Dick
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: oil temp guage
>
>
> >
> > no, do not drill the screen! The part you need is a standard part, I've
> > been through this. Let me look at work tomorrow and find the p/n.
> >
> > Gene
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Richard Navratril <horzpool(at)goldengate.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Pietenpol-List: oil temp guage
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Hey all
> > > I am at a real frustrating point. I want to get my A-65 started for
the
> > > first time but am running into one small but large problem.
> > > I installed a mechanical oil temperature guage purchaced from ACS. The
> > > ACS part # is OT040. The sender has a 5/8x18 NF fitting which has to
> > > fit into a 5/8 NFF x 1/2 NPTM adapter. This forms the seal for the
> > > sender. Now I cant find an adapter to take the 1/2 NPTM to plug into
> > > the oil screen cover which is 5/8x18 NFF.
> > > I have been discussing this with the manufacturer and ACS and they
both
> > > act like it's the first time this problem has ever come up. Since the
> > > guage is installed and the box is long gone ACS doesn"t want it back.
> > > Has anyone else run into this? Would it be acceptable to drill out
and
> > > re-tap the oil screen cover to 1/2" NPT?
> > > Thanks
> > > Dick
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isablcorky(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 08/22/02 |
Thanks Walt,
I called Dick and will be shipping my carb to him today. I feel good about it
especially after talking with him. I'll keep you posted. You know, those damn
yankees aren't really all bad.
Corky in La
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
Corky wrote:
>What I need from you is the name(s) of someone who knows that
>Stromberg from A to izzard who I can send it to and feel that it will
>be correct when I receive it. I want the BEST.
Hey, Corky- if you don't mind Texas folks and can understand "Texan", you
can call Deanie Montgomery in Corsicana, TX. He is presently helping
another Texan (airline pilot) finish up his J-3 clone, and is also just
about done overhauling my own Stromberg NAS3A1 carb (going on a Corvair).
Deanie is at (903)874-3714; P.O. Box 1046, Corsicana, TX 75151. FWIW- his
shop is on Collin Street in Corsicana. If you've never heard of the Collin
Street Bakery, they are world-famous for holiday fruit cakes. Funny thing
is, the bakery isn't even on Collin Street in Corsicana. Also FWIW,
Corsicana is just south of Dallas.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | matt miller <thorntonmiller(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | T-88 or Polyurethene Glue |
As a beginner, I notice that most everyone uses T-88 on their Piet. Has anyone
tried one of the new polyurethene glues? They seem to be so much easier-(no mix)
and they fill gaps. Will they stand up to dope? I would like to hear from
others on this subject. MM
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skycarl" <skycarl(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: T-88 or Polyurethene Glue |
Matt. I used poly glue on most of my ship and have had great results with
it.
Use gloves when using it as it had a tendency to stay with you for a while.
Elmers ProBond is what I used and is available at most home improvement
suppliers.
Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: matt miller <thorntonmiller(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: T-88 or Polyurethene Glue
>
>
> As a beginner, I notice that most everyone uses T-88 on their Piet. Has
anyone tried one of the new polyurethene glues? They seem to be so much
easier-(no mix) and they fill gaps. Will they stand up to dope? I would like
to hear from others on this subject. MM
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary McNeel, Jr." <gmcneel(at)mykitplane.com> |
| Subject: | T-88 or Polyurethane Glue |
Matt, look in the archives, this has been discussed before.
From my perspective, I would say use the T-88. It is wonderful stuff. Very,
very easy to mix and use. I do it on a plate with an acid brush or Popsicle
stick. 1 to 1 by volume makes it easy to eyeball in small quantities, which
is what I usually do.
The polyurethane's I have used, just recently too on my sons "1/2 scale play
airplane" just do not hold up as well as the epoxy. I wish now I had used
the T-88 on it too and have started using it as I continue work on the
plane.
T-88 is non-brittle, waterproof, seems to handle shock loads well. I have
done test with various woods, including plywood. IT ALWAYS tore the wood up
breaking before the epoxy failed. I love the stuff.
-Gary
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of matt
> miller
> Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 8:15 AM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: T-88 or Polyurethene Glue
>
>
>
>
>
> As a beginner, I notice that most everyone uses T-88 on their
> Piet. Has anyone tried one of the new polyurethene glues? They
> seem to be so much easier-(no mix) and they fill gaps. Will they
> stand up to dope? I would like to hear from others on this subject. MM
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Owen Davies" <owen5819(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: T-88 or Polyurethene Glue |
matt miller asked:
> As a beginner, I notice that most everyone uses T-88 on their Piet.
> Has anyone tried one of the new polyurethene glues? They seem
> to be so much easier-(no mix) and they fill gaps. (etc.)
No idea how they stand up to dope, though it would surprise me if
they had a problem with it. However, my strong impression is that
they are not suitable for aircraft work, even though one or two makers
of ultralights do endorse them.
Wooden Boat did two articles about polyurethane glues a couple
of years ago. The first, based on a fairly preliminary evaluation,
found them to be very promising. The second, after more extensive
study, warned against them. If memory serves, they made good,
strong bonds, which became brittle over time. I've half an idea--
and this is definitely not to be trusted--that they did not penetrate
quite as well as epoxies or resorcinol, so that although they did
tear wood on breaking tests, water had an easier time of getting
below the bond and rotting the wood below. Of course, that is
a much greater concern for boat builders than for airplane builders.
Note that while polyurethanes do fill gaps, the filler has no
useful strength. Joints using polyurethane glues can be a bit
less precise than with resorcinol, but you don't get anything like
the tolerance available with epoxy.
Also, they have some pretty specific requirements for clamping
pressure--lower than resorcinol, but significantly more than
the epoxy. According to a friend who does use them in ultralight
construction, they are very finicky about this.
FWIW. Note that my hands-on experience to date includes a
few wing ribs for an EAA chapter glider project and for my
own long-stalled Piet, so this is all based on the work of others.
I've used polyurethanes for minor woodworking, but the ribs
used resorcinol or phenol-formaldehyde (for the chapter
project) or T-88 (for the Piet.) Based on reading and on that
little bit of practice, the only one I fully trust is resorcinol.
However, T-88 seems to be "good enough."
Owen Davies
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael King" <mikek120(at)mindspring.com> |
Oscar,
Thanks for the tip to where to send my Stromberg.
I have been to Corsicana several times on Masonic
lodge business and have been to the world famous
Collin Street Bakery but it is nice to know where to
send my carb.
Mike King
GN-1
77MK
Dallas, Texas
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Oscar Zuniga
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Stromberg carb
Corky wrote:
>What I need from you is the name(s) of someone who knows that
>Stromberg from A to izzard who I can send it to and feel that it will
>be correct when I receive it. I want the BEST.
Hey, Corky- if you don't mind Texas folks and can understand "Texan", you
can call Deanie Montgomery in Corsicana, TX. He is presently helping
another Texan (airline pilot) finish up his J-3 clone, and is also just
about done overhauling my own Stromberg NAS3A1 carb (going on a Corvair).
Deanie is at (903)874-3714; P.O. Box 1046, Corsicana, TX 75151. FWIW- his
shop is on Collin Street in Corsicana. If you've never heard of the Collin
Street Bakery, they are world-famous for holiday fruit cakes. Funny thing
is, the bakery isn't even on Collin Street in Corsicana. Also FWIW,
Corsicana is just south of Dallas.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | matt miller <thorntonmiller(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: T-88 or Polyurethene Glue |
Owen, thanks for the info. You helped me make my decision. I'll use T-88..Matt
matt miller asked:
> As a beginner, I notice that most everyone uses T-88 on their Piet.
> Has anyone tried one of the new polyurethene glues? They seem
> to be so much easier-(no mix) and they fill gaps. (etc.)
No idea how they stand up to dope, though it would surprise me if
they had a problem with it. However, my strong impression is that
they are not suitable for aircraft work, even though one or two makers
of ultralights do endorse them.
Wooden Boat did two articles about polyurethane glues a couple
of years ago. The first, based on a fairly preliminary evaluation,
found them to be very promising. The second, after more extensive
study, warned against them. If memory serves, they made good,
strong bonds, which became brittle over time. I've half an idea--
and this is definitely not to be trusted--that they did not penetrate
quite as well as epoxies or resorcinol, so that although they did
tear wood on breaking tests, water had an easier time of getting
below the bond and rotting the wood below. Of course, that is
a much greater concern for boat builders than for airplane builders.
Note that while polyurethanes do fill gaps, the filler has no
useful strength. Joints using polyurethane glues can be a bit
less precise than with resorcinol, but you don't get anything like
the tolerance available with epoxy.
Also, they have some pretty specific requirements for clamping
pressure--lower than resorcinol, but significantly more than
the epoxy. According to a friend who does use them in ultralight
construction, they are very finicky about this.
FWIW. Note that my hands-on experience to date includes a
few wing ribs for an EAA chapter glider project and for my
own long-stalled Piet, so this is all based on the work of others.
I've used polyurethanes for minor woodworking, but the ribs
used resorcinol or phenol-formaldehyde (for the chapter
project) or T-88 (for the Piet.) Based on reading and on that
little bit of practice, the only one I fully trust is resorcinol.
However, T-88 seems to be "good enough."
Owen Davies
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gadd, Skip" <Skip.Gadd(at)ssa.gov> |
| Subject: | T-88 or Polyurethane Glue |
Hi Matt,
Get some polyurethane and do some tests.
I have been working with wood all my life and I'll be darned if I can get
more than 10% to 15% wood breakage when the test joint is broken. That means
85% to 90% of the glue joint breaks and that is not good enough for an
aircraft I plan to fly. Maybe it is like Owen says the clamping pressure is
just real critical, I have done maybe a dozen test samples.
On another glue note I always make a couple test samples with the T88 before
I use it on the plane, especially if I haven't used if for a couple of
months. I just had to pitch out about 1/2 qt of T88 because I couldn't get
it to pass the test. You should get real close to 100% wood breakage when
you break the joint.
Skip
As a beginner, I notice that most everyone uses T-88 on their Piet. Has
anyone tried one of the new polyurethene glues? They seem to be so much
easier-(no mix) and they fill gaps. Will they stand up to dope? I would like
to hear from others on this subject. MM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | matt miller <thorntonmiller(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Short or long nose Piet |
I'm sure this question has been asked before, but...I really think the "Long" nose
distracts from the classic lines of the Piet. I plan to use a Continental
65 or 85 in my Piet. Can I build the "short Nose" with the Continental. What must
I do to make the C.G. work. Is ballast an option. One last question, Can
J-3 cowling be used on the Piet. It sure is a classic look, and would save a
lot of sheet metal work....Matt
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Oil screen with the adapter on ebay |
Look at this for a picture of the oilscreen with the adapter.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1852111638
Chris bobka
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hubbard, Eugene" <ehubbard(at)titan.com> |
| Subject: | Short or long nose Piet |
Matt,
I agree with you on the appearance of the long-nose Piet. The worst that
can happen with the short nose is that you need to add lead to make up the
weight difference between the Continental and the Model A engines. You'll
still have more power than with the Ford. I intend to put part of that lead
in my battery (I have a c-75), and I have an _old_ generator that will
certainly make up another large chunk of the ballast needed. You need to
make the decision that you aren't trying to have the lightest plane around,
and recognize that the ballast comes right off the payload.
Gene Hubbard
Ready to hang the engine and find out just how much ballast I need in San
Diego.
-----Original Message-----
From: matt miller [mailto:thorntonmiller(at)yahoo.com]
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Short or long nose Piet
I'm sure this question has been asked before, but...I really think the
"Long" nose distracts from the classic lines of the Piet. I plan to use a
Continental 65 or 85 in my Piet. Can I build the "short Nose" with the
Continental. What must I do to make the C.G. work. Is ballast an option.
One last question, Can J-3 cowling be used on the Piet. It sure is a classic
look, and would save a lot of sheet metal work....Matt
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Brusilow" <mb-albany(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Short or long nose Piet |
----- Original Message -----
From: matt miller
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 11:07 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Short or long nose Piet
I'm sure this question has been asked before, but...I really think the
"Long" nose distracts from the classic lines of the Piet. I plan to use
a Continental 65 or 85 in my Piet. Can I build the "short Nose" with the
Continental. What must I do to make the C.G. work. Is ballast an
option. One last question, Can J-3 cowling be used on the Piet. It sure
is a classic look, and would save a lot of sheet metal work....Matt
---------------------------------
Matt are you building the long or short fuselage?
The short will still be a problem but proably less so. Be aware that
there is something like an 80 lb difference between the 65 & the Ford (
with radiator & water) for which the airplane was designed for.
If you do not want to move the engine out, then the wing needs to come
back to bring the CG foward, & I suspect you will have to add weight to
the engine compartment.
Mike B Piet N687MB ( Mr Sam )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gadd, Skip" <Skip.Gadd(at)ssa.gov> |
| Subject: | Short or long nose Piet |
Hi Matt,
I'm building the Flying and glider manual fuselage which is about 2" shorter
than the "short"
fuse, and I plan to use a Corvair for power. The plan is to not worry about
weight on the engine, starter, battery etc., at the same time do everything
I can to make it as light as possible aft of CG.
I will do the engine mount almost last and adjust the length accordingly,
than make the cowl and at the final W&B maybe move the wing back if needed.
Don't know if the Continental is lighter than the Corvair.
Skip
I'm sure this question has been asked before, but...I really think the
"Long" nose distracts from the classic lines of the Piet. I plan to use a
Continental 65 or 85 in my Piet. Can I build the "short Nose" with the
Continental. What must I do to make the C.G. work. Is ballast an option.
One last question, Can J-3 cowling be used on the Piet. It sure is a classic
look, and would save a lot of sheet metal work....Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Short or long nose Piet |
A Corvair should come in a bit over 200lbs. I believe a C-85 is about
10-20 lbs lighter.
I'm doing the same with my Corvair powered GN-1. I'm saving the engine
mount to about last and will make the mount as long as it needs to
balance out.
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Gadd, Skip
To: 'pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com'
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 9:44 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Short or long nose Piet
Hi Matt,
I'm building the Flying and glider manual fuselage which is about 2"
shorter
than the "short"
fuse, and I plan to use a Corvair for power. The plan is to not worry
about
weight on the engine, starter, battery etc., at the same time do
everything
I can to make it as light as possible aft of CG.
I will do the engine mount almost last and adjust the length
accordingly,
than make the cowl and at the final W&B maybe move the wing back if
needed.
Don't know if the Continental is lighter than the Corvair.
Skip
-
I'm sure this question has been asked before, but...I really think the
"Long" nose distracts from the classic lines of the Piet. I plan to
use a
Continental 65 or 85 in my Piet. Can I build the "short Nose" with the
Continental. What must I do to make the C.G. work. Is ballast an
option.
One last question, Can J-3 cowling be used on the Piet. It sure is a
classic
look, and would save a lot of sheet metal work....Matt
=
=
messages.
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
=
=
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Conkling" <hpvs(at)southwind.net> |
| Subject: | Re: T-88 or Polyurethene Glue |
The one polyurethane glue that might be considered is Structan --
www.excelglue.com -- product is actually listed for light aircraft -- it
does require 150-200 psi clamping pressure (I tried gluing some dowel pegs
into a board & having the foaming action pop the dowels out if you didn't
put a brick on each one!! ;-)
Only come in a cartridge -- you can get a sample from Sammy Mayeux if you
give him a call -- Corky, he hails from Cottonport, LA
Mike C.
Pretty Prairie, KS
----- Original Message -----
From: "matt miller" <thorntonmiller(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: T-88 or Polyurethene Glue
>
>
> As a beginner, I notice that most everyone uses T-88 on their Piet. Has
anyone tried one of the new polyurethene glues? They seem to be so much
easier-(no mix) and they fill gaps. Will they stand up to dope? I would like
to hear from others on this subject. MM
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratril" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil screen with the adapter on ebay |
Chris
Thanks alot for that ebay picture. I bid on that item. Also this morning I
might have found that adapter nut in the Wag aero cataloug as an engine
adapter nut. I was really suprised that ACS wasn't more helpful on this.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Oil screen with the adapter on ebay
>
> Look at this for a picture of the oilscreen with the adapter.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1852111638
>
> Chris bobka
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Short or long nose Piet |
Matt----do not be afraid of the the short fuse and 65 Cont.
combination. You do NOT have to add any ballast at all to make that
combination work out. Several of us have built (including mine) this
combination....and it works fine provided you position the wing back far
enough. In my case the wing had to be fixed at 4" cabane struts aft of
being vertical and I made my engine mount 1" longer than Bernard Pietenpols
65 Cont. engine plans show. You need to consider your weight
also. Steve E. I think has his wing back 6", mine is back 4". I weigh
195. If you weight more, move the wing back more, if you weigh less, you
won't need to move the wing back as far. OR......you can make your motor
mount accordingly longer. As always, it's better to have a nose-heavy
Piet than a tail heavy Piet, but for gosh sakes no ballast should ever be
needed in a Piet since there are so many ways of making the CG for just
about any engine installation work out. Also....if you put a fuel tank
behind the firewall you'll have fuel forward of the CG which helps, in the
wing it's on the CG so it doesn't help one way or the other. I prefer
the appearance of the short fuse also, but if you are tall you'll find you
get 2" less leg room in each cockpit vs. the long fuse. I'm only about
5'10" so it's not a problem for me. Go for it.
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 08/22/02 |
Corky,
I don't think you'll regret it. Dick doesn't have a B.S. bone in his body.
Knows alot, and loves to share it.
Great combo .
walt
ps even think he lives in SOUTH Lafayette, if that helps.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Isablcorky(at)aol.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 08/22/02
>
> Thanks Walt,
> I called Dick and will be shipping my carb to him today. I feel good about
it
> especially after talking with him. I'll keep you posted. You know, those
damn
> yankees aren't really all bad.
> Corky in La
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu> |
Anyone know where I can find the prop hub key for the A-65? I took my
prop off Yesterday to refinish and balance and lost it somewhere. Very
frustrating, but essential hunk of metal.
Steve E.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil screen with the adapter on ebay |
Dick, the adapter nut in the EBAY ad is the right one, and you have also
found it in the Wag Aero catalog. I'm not sure if the o-200 screen is the
same as a C-65, though. Maybe someone else on here knows for sure.
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Navratril <horzpool(at)goldengate.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Oil screen with the adapter on ebay
>
> Chris
> Thanks alot for that ebay picture. I bid on that item. Also this morning
I
> might have found that adapter nut in the Wag aero cataloug as an engine
> adapter nut. I was really suprised that ACS wasn't more helpful on this.
> Dick
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net>
> To: "Pietenpol-List(at)Matronics.Com"
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Oil screen with the adapter on ebay
>
>
>
> >
> > Look at this for a picture of the oilscreen with the adapter.
> >
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1852111638
> >
> > Chris bobka
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LAWRENCE WILLIAMS" <lnawms(at)msn.com> |
Most all aviation feats have been accomplished with great perseverance played to
a background chorus of naysayers.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Brusilow" <mb-albany(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Short or long nose Piet |
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Brusilow
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 12:12 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Short or long nose Piet
----- Original Message -----
From: matt miller
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2002 11:07 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Short or long nose Piet
I'm sure this question has been asked before, but...I really think
the "Long" nose distracts from the classic lines of the Piet. I plan to
use a Continental 65 or 85 in my Piet. Can I build the "short Nose" with
the Continental. What must I do to make the C.G. work. Is ballast an
option. One last question, Can J-3 cowling be used on the Piet. It sure
is a classic look, and would save a lot of sheet metal work....Matt
---------------------------------
Matt are you building the long or short fuselage?
The short will still be a problem but proably less so. Be aware that
there is something like an 80 lb difference between the 65 & the Ford (
with radiator & water) for which the airplane was designed for.
If you do not want to move the engine out, then the wing needs to
come back to bring the CG foward, & I suspect you will have to add
weight to the engine compartment.
Mike B Piet N687MB ( Mr Sam )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net> |
Hi Steve,
I just bought one from Fresno AirParts. Give them a call. They are usually
the inside front page of Trade-a-Plane.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve
Eldredge
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
Anyone know where I can find the prop hub key for the A-65? I took my
prop off Yesterday to refinish and balance and lost it somewhere. Very
frustrating, but essential hunk of metal.
Steve E.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979(at)naples.net> |
| Subject: | Leading edge ply direction |
I have a question I didn't know I had until a recent EAA meeting. Which way
does the grain of the ply run on the leading edge? With the leading edge or
with the ribs? I assumed with the LE until an old timer said it should be
right angles to the LE.
Ted
Getting close to finishing wings and making lots of sawdust
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne McIntosh" <mcintosh3017(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: T-88 or Polyurethene Glue |
Matt,
I used polyurethane glue, Excel is the brand, when I built the ribs for
my Rag-A-Muffin ultralight. I then switched to T88 for the rest of the
plane. Although Excel polyurethane is good strong glue it has some
disadvantages. First after the bottle has been opened about a month the glue
inside starts to get lumps in it and I decided not to use it anymore. Also
it really does not have good gap filling ability. The foam that bubbles out
of the joint and into the gap is not strong. In some tests I made to compare
Excel and T88 they both did well but I think T88 is stronger. I finished my
Rag-A-Muffin 2 1/2 years ago and now have 87 hours of flight on it and have
had no trouble with any glue joints. Last summer I tried an experiment with
some old 2 year old T88 that had actually started to get lumps in the
hardener. This stuff was hard to mix but finally after much stirring it
mixed. I found 2 damp 2x4 cutoffs that were lying outside and planed off the
dirt and lap glued them together overlapping 5". I let the glue cure for 2
weeks then laid the board between 2 cement blocks and jumped on it with my
muscular 200 pound body. after 4 or 5 jumps the boards broke but not the
glue joint. Use T88 be very clean and use fresh stuff read up on making glue
joints with epoxy glue and fly with confidence.
Wayne McIntosh Lafayette IN.
---- Original Message -----
From: "matt miller" <thorntonmiller(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: T-88 or Polyurethene Glue
>
>
> As a beginner, I notice that most everyone uses T-88 on their Piet. Has
anyone tried one of the new polyurethene glues? They seem to be so much
easier-(no mix) and they fill gaps. Will they stand up to dope? I would like
to hear from others on this subject. MM
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bert Conoly" <bconoly(at)earthlink.net> |
I need an A-65 or will consider an O-200. ready for it now
Anybody know where I can find a GOOD ONE. I want a complete, airworthy
engine with mags, carb, etc. - No Junk!
Thanks, Bert
850-668-4420
=======================================================================
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge ply direction |
Ted,
I just remember ,that to cut the pieces, they were longwise to the 4x8 sheet
of ply that I bought.
And not to be a wiseguy, but as the story goes,,,Bernard used the cardboard
from Quacker Oatmeal boxes for his leading edge, So it probably doesn't
make any difference.
walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979(at)naples.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge ply direction
>
> I have a question I didn't know I had until a recent EAA meeting. Which
way
> does the grain of the ply run on the leading edge? With the leading edge
or
> with the ribs? I assumed with the LE until an old timer said it should be
> right angles to the LE.
>
> Ted
>
> Getting close to finishing wings and making lots of sawdust
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skycarl" <skycarl(at)megsinet.net> |
Bert, I have a friend who has or had both a 65 and a 200. I'll call him
tomorrow and check. If he does, I'll send you his number. I'm sure they were
both airworthy, not sure about logs. I had one of his piets posted on my
web site.
Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: Bert Conoly <bconoly(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: A-65 needed
>
>
> I need an A-65 or will consider an O-200. ready for it now
> Anybody know where I can find a GOOD ONE. I want a complete, airworthy
> engine with mags, carb, etc. - No Junk!
> Thanks, Bert
> 850-668-4420
>
>
> =======================================================================
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net> |
Hey Gene,
What kind of plane did you buy?
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gene Rambo
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: oil temp guage
Sorry, I have been busy, bought a new airplane and have been running around
like crazy negotiating, then pre-purchase inspection, AD search, title
search, now post-purchase insurance, tie down, etc. Slowing down a little
now, I'll look today . . . .I promise.
Gene
do not post
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Navratril <horzpool(at)goldengate.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: oil temp guage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal(at)startribune.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge ply direction |
Ted,
The leading edge plywood is not structural. You can run the face ply's
whichever direction is convenient to you.
Greg Cardinal, Minneapolis
>>> nfn00979(at)naples.net 08/22/02 09:32PM >>>
I have a question I didn't know I had until a recent EAA meeting. Which
way
does the grain of the ply run on the leading edge? With the leading
edge or
with the ribs? I assumed with the LE until an old timer said it should
be
right angles to the LE.
Ted
Getting close to finishing wings and making lots of sawdust
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bert Conoly" <bconoly(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge ply direction |
Ted: if it's 1.5mm or 1/16 inch it probably is 3 ply. That would mean
that the two outside plys run parallel. In my experience I've found running
the two outside plys parallel to the leading edge seems to allow the plywood
to bend easier. That is the grain direction runs parallel to the leading
edge. Maybe I'm imagining it but that seems to be less straining on the
plywood at that leading edge bend. That's the way I've run mine.
Talk later, Bert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979(at)naples.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge ply direction
>
> I have a question I didn't know I had until a recent EAA meeting. Which
way
> does the grain of the ply run on the leading edge? With the leading edge
or
> with the ribs? I assumed with the LE until an old timer said it should be
> right angles to the LE.
>
> Ted
>
> Getting close to finishing wings and making lots of sawdust
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark Stevens" <taxt(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 08/23/02 |
Hello everyone,
I was roaming through the internet this am and found a site that had the
tape of Pietenpol Air Camper The Building and Flying of NX48MC
http://users.aol.com/bpabpabpa/cuyvideo.html Hope this is a good site still
and the right address for the tape.
Have a great weekend. Mark
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratril" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
Hey Bert
Wentworth aircraft generally has a stock of engines. Their number is
612-722-0065. They also have an 800 number and ad in Trade a Plane.
They are close by me, I could ship for you.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bert Conoly" <bconoly(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: A-65 needed
>
>
> I need an A-65 or will consider an O-200. ready for it now
> Anybody know where I can find a GOOD ONE. I want a complete, airworthy
> engine with mags, carb, etc. - No Junk!
> Thanks, Bert
> 850-668-4420
>
>
> =======================================================================
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratril" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Oil screen with the adapter on ebay |
Thanks for looking Gene. I am hoping to have it running soon.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene Rambo" <rambog(at)erols.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Oil screen with the adapter on ebay
>
> Dick, the adapter nut in the EBAY ad is the right one, and you have also
> found it in the Wag Aero catalog. I'm not sure if the o-200 screen is the
> same as a C-65, though. Maybe someone else on here knows for sure.
>
> Gene
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Richard Navratril <horzpool(at)goldengate.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Oil screen with the adapter on ebay
>
>
>
> >
> > Chris
> > Thanks alot for that ebay picture. I bid on that item. Also this
morning
> I
> > might have found that adapter nut in the Wag aero cataloug as an engine
> > adapter nut. I was really suprised that ACS wasn't more helpful on
this.
> > Dick
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net>
> > To: "Pietenpol-List(at)Matronics.Com"
> > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Oil screen with the adapter on ebay
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Look at this for a picture of the oilscreen with the adapter.
> > >
> > >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1852111638
> > >
> > > Chris bobka
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 08/23/02 |
That address is still good and the tape is excellent. Well worth it
for idea and motivation. Mike C did an amazing job on his piet.
Kirk
>
>Hello everyone,
>
>I was roaming through the internet this am and found a site that had the
>tape of Pietenpol Air Camper The Building and Flying of NX48MC
>http://users.aol.com/bpabpabpa/cuyvideo.html Hope this is a good site still
>and the right address for the tape.
>
>Have a great weekend. Mark
>
>
>MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
>http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
--
Kirk Huizenga and Bryan Eastep's Aircamper and Corvair Project
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList.cfm?Menu=PhotoGallery
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary McNeel, Jr." <gmcneel(at)mykitplane.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 08/23/02 |
It is. This is Mike Cuy's tape and was helpful and inspirational for me.
I pull it out once in a while and take a look.
-Gary
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark
> Stevens
> Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2002 10:05 AM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 08/23/02
>
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I was roaming through the internet this am and found a site that had the
> tape of Pietenpol Air Camper The Building and Flying of NX48MC
> http://users.aol.com/bpabpabpa/cuyvideo.html Hope this is a good
> site still
> and the right address for the tape.
>
> Have a great weekend. Mark
>
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doc Mosher <docshop(at)tds.net> |
Steve Eldridge -
You can go the local hardware store and get a key for your prop. You will
have to know the measurement, of course. It will be a square piece of hard
steel about so . . long. It is not really just an airplane part, but is
the same key sued on your lawnmower or your car.
Doc Mosher
Oshkosh USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LAWRENCE WILLIAMS" <lnawms(at)msn.com> |
If airplanes could talk, the stories they could tell.......that their pilots haven't.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike" <mes(at)megalink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge ply direction |
My piet has alum. leading edge works fine if anyone looking another option.
mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bert Conoly" <bconoly(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge ply direction
>
> Ted: if it's 1.5mm or 1/16 inch it probably is 3 ply. That would mean
> that the two outside plys run parallel. In my experience I've found
running
> the two outside plys parallel to the leading edge seems to allow the
plywood
> to bend easier. That is the grain direction runs parallel to the leading
> edge. Maybe I'm imagining it but that seems to be less straining on the
> plywood at that leading edge bend. That's the way I've run mine.
>
> Talk later, Bert
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979(at)naples.net>
> To:
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge ply direction
>
>
>
> >
> > I have a question I didn't know I had until a recent EAA meeting. Which
> way
> > does the grain of the ply run on the leading edge? With the leading
edge
> or
> > with the ribs? I assumed with the LE until an old timer said it should
be
> > right angles to the LE.
> >
> > Ted
> >
> > Getting close to finishing wings and making lots of sawdust
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Engelkenjohn <wingding(at)usmo.com> |
| Subject: | bending lower longerons |
Do the lower longerons on a long fuselage piet have to be steamed and
bent or can they be bent dry and will the T-88 hold when I remove them
from the jig? one side will get the plywood on it, but the other side
will not, and that is the side I am most concerned about.
Dennis Engelkenjohn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | bending lower longerons |
They bend very easily dry. No need to wet them. T-88 holds, but be
careful until you get the gussets on. End grain joints are known to
"pop" if they are bumped or strained.
DJ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dennis
Engelkenjohn
Subject: Pietenpol-List: bending lower longerons
-->
Do the lower longerons on a long fuselage piet have to be steamed and
bent or can they be bent dry and will the T-88 hold when I remove them
from the jig? one side will get the plywood on it, but the other side
will not, and that is the side I am most concerned about. Dennis
Engelkenjohn
=
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
=
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: bending lower longerons |
Dennis
the longerons do not have to be steamed, and there is
no need to be concerned, there is not that much
pressure and when the sides are pulled in for the tail
post, it puts compression on the insides of the sides.
Del
--- Dennis Engelkenjohn wrote:
> Engelkenjohn
>
> Do the lower longerons on a long fuselage piet have
> to be steamed and
> bent or can they be bent dry and will the T-88 hold
> when I remove them
> from the jig? one side will get the plywood on it,
> but the other side
> will not, and that is the side I am most concerned
> about.
> Dennis Engelkenjohn
>
>
>
> Forum -
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://finance.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Engelkenjohn <wingding(at)usmo.com> |
Next Question for everyone:
How many turnbuckles and what size are used in the Piet? Is B & B
Aircraft Parts in Kansas still the cheapest place to buy them?
Dennis Engelkenjohn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979(at)naples.net> |
Dennis,
I think there are 36 if my memory serves me. I wouldn't trust it though.
Age you know...
Ted
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Engelkenjohn" <wingding(at)usmo.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: turnbuckles
>
> Next Question for everyone:
>
> How many turnbuckles and what size are used in the Piet? Is B & B
> Aircraft Parts in Kansas still the cheapest place to buy them?
> Dennis Engelkenjohn
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979(at)naples.net> |
| Subject: | Re: paines truths |
Why Larry? What would your young plane tell us???
Ted
----- Original Message -----
From: "LAWRENCE WILLIAMS" <lnawms(at)msn.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: paines truths
>
> If airplanes could talk, the stories they could tell.......that their pil> ots
haven't.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bobka(at)charter.net |
| Subject: | Interesting item on eBay web site item#2133049514: 1942 |
TAYLOR CRAFT AIRPLANE PROPELLER
This looks like a good prop to keep as a spare if you are running a Lycoming 65.
They say it is flyable....
Title of item: 1942 TAYLOR CRAFT AIRPLANE PROPELLER
Seller: bluewannabe
Price: Starts at $275.00
To bid on the item, go to: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2133049514
Item Description:
COLLECTOR'S ITEM - THIS PROPELLER IS IN EXCELLENT CONDITION. We were told
that this propeller came from a WWII Taylor Craft trainer. On the front side
it has branded in it: DEB 70LY38, SER 24618, HP 63, RPM 2550. On the back the
blades are branded "1" and "2". Written in on the hub it says Taylor Craft,
65 HP, BL65, A04PW, Lary Fall, 1942. It is 70" long. Tips are reinforced with
red silk span. Leading edge and tips have riveted metal edge, looks like brass.
There is no rock/FOD damage. Shipping will be paid by buyer and be actual shipping
cost and can be determined based on buyer's location and wishes. Handling
will be $15.00. Insurance is optional, to be paid by buyer. This prop is gorgeous
and would look great in your office or on the wall of your home or on a
1942 Taylor Craft. It is flyable.
Visit eBay, The World's Online Marketplace TM at http://www.ebay.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lshutks(at)webtv.net (Leon Stefan) |
Dennis: B&B had a tray of 8/32 (i think) size at Oskosh for $9.00.
Thats about half new price. Leon S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LAWRENCE WILLIAMS" <lnawms(at)msn.com> |
If you buzz people or things, all you are really doing s putting your stupidity
on display.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu> |
I used 36 on my piet and paid $6 for them at B&B 7 years ago.
Steve E.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ted Brousseau [mailto:nfn00979(at)naples.net]
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: turnbuckles
Dennis,
I think there are 36 if my memory serves me. I wouldn't trust it
though.
Age you know...
Ted
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis Engelkenjohn" <wingding(at)usmo.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: turnbuckles
>
> Next Question for everyone:
>
> How many turnbuckles and what size are used in the Piet? Is B & B
> Aircraft Parts in Kansas still the cheapest place to buy them?
> Dennis Engelkenjohn
>
=
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hubbard, Eugene" <ehubbard(at)titan.com> |
| Subject: | bending lower longerons |
Mine held, but I left some extra length at the front and NAILED the front of
the longeron to the work table while I was bending it. There was probably
100 lbs of force trying to make the front spring back out and the cleats
that I used for the rest of the fuselage just didn't work.
Gene Hubbard
San Diego
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Engelkenjohn [mailto:wingding(at)usmo.com]
Subject: Pietenpol-List: bending lower longerons
Do the lower longerons on a long fuselage piet have to be steamed and
bent or can they be bent dry and will the T-88 hold when I remove them
from the jig? one side will get the plywood on it, but the other side
will not, and that is the side I am most concerned about.
Dennis Engelkenjohn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ellery voge" <elleryvoge(at)hotmail.com> |
I've a lot of old cedar siding from salvage.I think it's red cedar.It's
clear and mostly vertical grained. If I reverse the boards and glue them
together I wind up with a board 3/4 by 7 inchs of verying lengths up to 14
feet. I could double the ply the thickness would double accordingly. They
are very easy to work and light. Almost like balsa.
What are your thoughts as to applying them to pietenpol construction?
Thanks for any advise. Ellery Voge
MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lshutks(at)webtv.net (Leon Stefan) |
Like Gene, I left a couple inches of longeron ahead of the fire wall and
ran a stick of 8-32 all thread rod threw them to make sure they didn't
spring back before I got my gussets and ply. sides on. Every thing held
together with edge gluing only when out of the jig. I think the
longorens would have sprung apart without the rod temporairly holding
things together up frount. Leon S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brants" <tmbrant(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | 1/4" x 1/8" filler |
Hey all,
Just wondering what people have done about the filler strip between
gussetts... I noticed tonight when I put the bottom gusset plates on,
that you pretty much have to leave a 1/8" overhang where the top gussets
aren't met by the side gussets.... Otherwise there will be a little
ledge where the two gussets meet - if the top gussets are put on flush
with the longeron.... This make sense??
What have others done here?
Tom Brant, MPLS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clif <cdawson5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: cedar siding |
Red Cedar is 2/3 as strong as spruce.
This means that if you wanted to replace
the original 1" wide spar you would have
to use 1 1/2" cedar to get the same strength.
This ratio applies to any parts you replace.
The weight is approximately 2/3 that of
spruce as well, so properly sized, cedar
parts would weigh the same as spruce.
The weight of red cedar varies considerably
from piece to piece as well.
I understand that 1 or more list members
have used cedar for ribs etc.
----- Original Message -----
From: "ellery voge" <elleryvoge(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cedar siding
>
>
> I've a lot of old cedar siding from salvage.I think it's red cedar.It's
> clear and mostly vertical grained. If I reverse the boards and glue them
> together I wind up with a board 3/4 by 7 inchs of verying lengths up to 14
> feet. I could double the ply the thickness would double accordingly. They
> are very easy to work and light. Almost like balsa.
>
> What are your thoughts as to applying them to pietenpol construction?
>
> Thanks for any advise. Ellery Voge
>
>
> MSN Photos is the easiest way to share and print your photos:
> http://photos.msn.com/support/worldwide.aspx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LAWRENCE WILLIAMS" <lnawms(at)msn.com> |
Does anyone KNOW what happened to Larry Harrison and his "Poplar Piet"? I have
a friend who has met him a few times and has heard rumors that the
airplane is no more but would like to know what the real scoop is.
On a related note, whose Piet was it at OSH in the fly-market that had obviously
crashed recently and was for sale in pieces? Bad looking wreckage and lots of
negative karma surrounding it.
Thanks,
Larry
"A tailwind serves to make a short field shorter"
Paine
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harry21556(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Larry Harrison |
In a message dated 08/27/2002 7:04:24 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
lnawms(at)msn.com writes:
<< Does anyone KNOW >>
Larry,
The NTSB preliminary report is at:
MIA02LA110
Report says he lost power just after takeoff, doesn't say why or exactly
what happened next. Hopefully the final report will have more details when it
comes out.
Didn't get to the fly mart while I was at OSH so I don't know anything
about that one.
Harry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Waytogopiet(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Larry Harrison |
Larry's was an auto engine but not an 'A although it did appear similar. I
think it was out of a Chevy S-10. Bert Connely could tell you. Don Hicks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gadd, Skip" <Skip.Gadd(at)ssa.gov> |
Larry's power was GM 2.5 Liter. The fuselage was bright blue and wing
orange. Very good looking Piet.
Skip
Larry's was an auto engine but not an 'A although it did appear similar. I
think it was out of a Chevy S-10. Bert Connely could tell you. Don Hicks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Schaefer Family" <srs1(at)techline.com> |
| Subject: | Longeron bending |
On this longeron bending deal: I just wrapped towels around the first 6
ft or so of the bottom longerons and soaked them in very hot water and
left overnight. The next day they just bent right into place with very
little effort. Those spruce longerons are very stiff and I hated to put
that much force on them. Idea came from Tony B. article in old EAA mag.
I am Corvair guy too and am seeking a reasonably priced Stromberg NAS3A1
carb. Is there such a thing?
Fuse almost done, Some ribs and engine nearly complete. Wonderful
project, the whole family is having fun!
Steve in WA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Hannan" <isp100(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Larry Harrison |
This on the NTSB site:
NTSB Identification: MIA02LA110
Accident occurred Thursday, June 13, 2002 at Bainbridge, GA
Aircraft:Harrison Pietenpol Air Camper, registration: N7224X
Injuries: 1 Fatal, 1 Serious.
This is preliminary information, subject to change, and may contain errors. Any
errors in this report will be corrected when the final report has
been completed.
On June 13, 2002, about 1845 central daylight time, a homebuilt Harrison
Pietenpol Air Camper, N7224X, operated by and registered to an individualr Bainbridge,
Georgia. Visual meteorological conditions prevailed at the
time and no flight plan was filed for the 14 CFR Part 91 personal flight. The airplane
was destroyed. The none-rated pilot reported serious injuries. One passenger
was fatally injured. The local flight had originated from a private airstrip
near Bainbridge, at 1844.
Witnesses reported hearing the engine sputter and then saw the airplane nose into
the ground. The airplane impacted in a heavily wooded and swampy area, less
than 1/2 mile from the takeoff point.
----- Original Message -----
From: Gadd, Skip
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Larry Harrison
Larry's power was GM 2.5 Liter. The fuselage was bright blue and wing
orange. Very good looking Piet.
Skip
Larry's was an auto engine but not an 'A although it did appear similar.
I
think it was out of a Chevy S-10. Bert Connely could tell you. Don Hicks
=
=
=
ist
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: 1/4" x 1/8" filler |
| From: | catdesigns(at)juno.com |
When I built (still building) my fuselage I made the side gussets flush with the
top or bottom of the longeron (depending on the longeron I was working with).
Then I overlapped the corresponding gusset so its edge was flush with the outside.
I tried not to leave any short but in reality a few did not line up to
well. I can't say what is right or wrong.
The filler strips are only there to hold the fabric off the underlying framework.
This gives the covering a smooth look and holds the fabric away from parts
that would rub through the fabric. Locate the strips where they will smooth out
the surface and that should be the right place for them. You need to make sure
that they will serve the purpose. This may or may not be exactly where the
plans show them (I know it's sacrilegious to not follow the plans to the letter).
I am not installing the filler strips until my fuselage is completed.
I think you can hold off on this for a while.
Chris
Sacramento, CA
Subject: 1/4" x 1/8" filler
From: Brants (tmbrant(at)uswest.net)
Date: Mon Aug 26 - 8:33 PM
Hey all,
Just wondering what people have done about the filler strip between
gussetts... I noticed tonight when I put the bottom gusset plates on,
that you pretty much have to leave a 1/8" overhang where the top gussets
aren't met by the side gussets.... Otherwise there will be a little
ledge where the two gussets meet - if the top gussets are put on flush
with the longeron.... This make sense??
What have others done here?
Tom Brant, MPLS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 1/4" x 1/8" filler |
Tom,
I found that if you made them as exact as you are talking about, the corners
of the body would be sharp like a razor. I made each strip even with the
edge of it's longeron side, then when done used small sharp plane (no pun)
or sanding block to give the edge a rounded look ( small round like a 1/8"
radiis) then when the fabric and tape goes on, it looks good. But you can
make it a sharp as you'd like.
walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brants" <tmbrant(at)uswest.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: 1/4" x 1/8" filler
>
> Hey all,
>
> Just wondering what people have done about the filler strip between
> gussetts... I noticed tonight when I put the bottom gusset plates on,
> that you pretty much have to leave a 1/8" overhang where the top gussets
> aren't met by the side gussets.... Otherwise there will be a little
> ledge where the two gussets meet - if the top gussets are put on flush
> with the longeron.... This make sense??
>
> What have others done here?
>
> Tom Brant, MPLS
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Prop Hub Key |
| From: | "D.Dale Johnson" <dd5john(at)juno.com> |
Hi Steve
The prop key on my tapered shaft 65 is 3/8 x 7/32 x 2 1/4 .
Not square
Dale Mpls,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Engelkenjohn <wingding(at)usmo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Longeron bending |
Schaefer Family wrote:
>
> On this longeron bending deal: I just wrapped towels around the first 6
> ft or so of the bottom longerons and soaked them in very hot water and
> left overnight. The next day they just bent right into place with very
> little effort. Those spruce longerons are very stiff and I hated to put
> that much force on them. Idea came from Tony B. article in old EAA mag.
> I am Corvair guy too and am seeking a reasonably priced Stromberg NAS3A1
> carb. Is there such a thing?
> Fuse almost done, Some ribs and engine nearly complete. Wonderful
> project, the whole family is having fun!
> Steve in WA
>
I tried bending my lower longerons dry yesterday, nothing to it. Not much
pressure required at all, just put blocks on bottom in front and on top of
longeron where the bow is and on bottom just past bow. Folded up like a piece
of spaghetti.
Found a Stromberg at the AeroMart at Oshkosh this year, paid $250, which
may be too much, but then again, if I don't fall into a deal and have to spend
a lot of time calling and money to ship, it may not have been too bad. A bird
in the hand kind of thing. Also got a carb heat box and 4 PA-18 lift struts.
Wish I had the size of turnbuckles with me, I would have bought some of them
also.
Dennis Engelkenjohn
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu> |
Many thanks for the size. I am wondering if I can mill my own. The FBO
guys at the airport just said to go down to the tractor store and by
some keyway and use it. I went to the tractor place and bought some
square stock that I can mill down if I need too, but I began to wonder
if I need hardened stock. Anyone know what kind of material the key is
made out of? Hard, soft, mild steel?
Steve E.
-----Original Message-----
From: D.Dale Johnson [mailto:dd5john(at)juno.com]
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
Hi Steve
The prop key on my tapered shaft 65 is 3/8 x 7/32 x 2 1/4 .
Not square
Dale Mpls,
=
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Botsford" <Botsford7(at)hot.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Hub Key |
Steve,
The two major functions of keys are: 1. To provide alignment between two
parts and 2. to provide for the ability to "shear" when loads exceed values
which will damage parts "downstream". They can also be useful in
transferring loads but this is not a primary function. This being true do
not use hardened keys.
Jon Botsford
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
>
> Many thanks for the size. I am wondering if I can mill my own. The FBO
> guys at the airport just said to go down to the tractor store and by
> some keyway and use it. I went to the tractor place and bought some
> square stock that I can mill down if I need too, but I began to wonder
> if I need hardened stock. Anyone know what kind of material the key is
> made out of? Hard, soft, mild steel?
>
> Steve E.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: D.Dale Johnson [mailto:dd5john(at)juno.com]
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
>
>
>
> Hi Steve
> The prop key on my tapered shaft 65 is 3/8 x 7/32 x 2 1/4 .
> Not square
> Dale Mpls,
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Hub Key |
Steve,
Been in the "hands on" part of power transmission for 24 years. Even on
motors up to 8,000 hp. None of the keys are hardened. Even on the Staten
Island Ferry. I would assume that the key is mild steel.
Someone could take their key and drag a file across it, bet it digs in just
fine.
walt
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
>
> Many thanks for the size. I am wondering if I can mill my own. The FBO
> guys at the airport just said to go down to the tractor store and by
> some keyway and use it. I went to the tractor place and bought some
> square stock that I can mill down if I need too, but I began to wonder
> if I need hardened stock. Anyone know what kind of material the key is
> made out of? Hard, soft, mild steel?
>
> Steve E.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: D.Dale Johnson [mailto:dd5john(at)juno.com]
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
>
>
>
> Hi Steve
> The prop key on my tapered shaft 65 is 3/8 x 7/32 x 2 1/4 .
> Not square
> Dale Mpls,
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bert Conoly" <bconoly(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Larry Harrison |
Larry's doing very well now. He's back at full steam after several weeks of
recovery. I saw him Saturday (my plane is at his hangar) and he's working
on a Boredom Fighter now. It's awesome . It's painted up like a world war
I fighter (British markings) and is powered by a 1999 S-10 engine. It is
nearly complete.
I'll try to post some pictures if I can rememmber to do it.
Poplar Piet did indeed have a 2.5 L Chevrolet engine on it (without a
reduction drive). I was not there that day so I don't think I'll speculate
on the cause. Poplar Piet was destroyed (but there are lots of little parts
that will continue flying on other planes).
Larry's a real "builder"and a heck of a guy. This is his 5th airplane and
anyone that's ever met him appreciates his knowledge and skill.
Bert
----- Original Message -----
From: "LAWRENCE WILLIAMS" <lnawms(at)msn.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Larry Harrison
>
> Does anyone KNOW what happened to Larry Harrison and his "Poplar Piet"? I> have
a friend who has met him a few times and has heard rumors that the
> airplane is no more but would like to know what the real scoop is.
> On a related note, whose Piet was it at OSH in the fly-market that had ob> viously
crashed recently and was for sale in pieces? Bad looking wreckage> and
lots of negative karma surrounding it.
>
> Thanks,
> Larry
>
> "A tailwind serves to make a short field shorter"
> Paine
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net> |
Steve,
The key needs to be pretty hard. It is the main thing transmitting the
power pulses from the crankshaft to the propeller (although friction on the
shaft taper will transmit a lot). If it is soft and begins to smear, you
will have hard time ever removing your prop.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve
Eldredge
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
Many thanks for the size. I am wondering if I can mill my own. The FBO
guys at the airport just said to go down to the tractor store and by
some keyway and use it. I went to the tractor place and bought some
square stock that I can mill down if I need too, but I began to wonder
if I need hardened stock. Anyone know what kind of material the key is
made out of? Hard, soft, mild steel?
Steve E.
-----Original Message-----
From: D.Dale Johnson [mailto:dd5john(at)juno.com]
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
Hi Steve
The prop key on my tapered shaft 65 is 3/8 x 7/32 x 2 1/4 .
Not square
Dale Mpls,
=
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isablcorky(at)aol.com |
Pieters,
Last week I mentioned on this net that I needed help on my carb. Thanks for
the replies. Before I could remove it from 41 Chalie Chalie we were called to
Indiana for a funeral. I went to the hanger this morning expecting to remove
the carb and ship it to N J . There was a memo taped to the cowl saying,"
Corky, carb has been removed, cleaned, adjusted and DON'T mess with it as the
engine runs beautifully". All by some good friends. How bout those apples.
It did run great and I did my first taxiing. Found the tailwheel
oversensitive at first as its geometry is different from the rudder but after
awhile I got used to it and all is well. Had another pilot play with it for
awhile and his only comment was the a/s show 40 when the engine revved up and
was not moving. Might better move the pitot out to the strut fitting.
Otherwise, Corky is writing an invitation to the Fedman today. Hope he gets
here before Christmas.
Corky in La driving his T/D down the taxiway.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick and Marge Gillespie" <dickmarg(at)peganet.com> |
| Subject: | Volmer Sportsman |
Does anyone on the list know what happened to the Volmer Sportsman
amphibian? The last I heard was that someone around Titusville, FL had
gotten the rights from the Volmer estate.
DickG in Ft. Myers, FL (painting the GN-1)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu> |
I now have two keys on my desk. Made them myself during lunch from the
keyway stock I purchased. Thanks for the help guys.... Now I am
expecting to find the lost one any minute.
Steve E.
-----Original Message-----
From: D.Dale Johnson [mailto:dd5john(at)juno.com]
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
Hi Steve
The prop key on my tapered shaft 65 is 3/8 x 7/32 x 2 1/4 .
Not square
Dale Mpls,
=
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dilatush" <dilatush(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Hub Key |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
++++++++++++++++++++
Steve, didn't you know this is the best way to find the lost part?
My Piet is flying great, am now developing the operating numbers, but can
tell you that the rate of climb and angle of climb with the turbocharged
engine is stupendous!
Cordially, John
+++++++++++++++++++++
>
> I now have two keys on my desk. Made them myself during lunch from the
> keyway stock I purchased. Thanks for the help guys.... Now I am
> expecting to find the lost one any minute.
>
> Steve E.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: D.Dale Johnson [mailto:dd5john(at)juno.com]
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
>
>
>
> Hi Steve
> The prop key on my tapered shaft 65 is 3/8 x 7/32 x 2 1/4 .
> Not square
> Dale Mpls,
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu> |
John!
Good to hear from you again. Glad things are working out well with your
piet. I could use some extra power too, but solo is just fine. Got any
pictures of your flying piet?
Stev eE
-----Original Message-----
From: John Dilatush [mailto:dilatush(at)amigo.net]
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
++++++++++++++++++++
Steve, didn't you know this is the best way to find the lost part?
My Piet is flying great, am now developing the operating numbers, but
can
tell you that the rate of climb and angle of climb with the turbocharged
engine is stupendous!
Cordially, John
+++++++++++++++++++++
>
> I now have two keys on my desk. Made them myself during lunch from
the
> keyway stock I purchased. Thanks for the help guys.... Now I am
> expecting to find the lost one any minute.
>
> Steve E.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: D.Dale Johnson [mailto:dd5john(at)juno.com]
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
>
>
>
> Hi Steve
> The prop key on my tapered shaft 65 is 3/8 x 7/32 x 2 1/4 .
> Not square
> Dale Mpls,
>
>
=
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Long torque tube? |
| From: | catdesigns(at)juno.com |
Here is a question I have AFTER building my control torque tube. If I built the
LONG fuselage should I have lengthened the torque tube 2 as well????
Chris
Sacramento, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dilatush" <dilatush(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Hub Key |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Steve,
Sorry, don't have any flying pictures yet, although a couple of the guys
took some from the ground when I did a fly-by. I am waiting for some brave
soul to fly formation with me and take some shots with a zoom lens on a
digital camera, then let me have a copy that I can e-Mail. That is if I can
get smart enough to figure out how to sent them out! When this happens,
I'll get them to you.
Cordially, John
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
> John!
>
> Good to hear from you again. Glad things are working out well with your
> piet. I could use some extra power too, but solo is just fine. Got any
> pictures of your flying piet?
>
> Stev eE
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Dilatush [mailto:dilatush(at)amigo.net]
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
> To:
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> ++++++++++++++++++++
> Steve, didn't you know this is the best way to find the lost part?
>
> My Piet is flying great, am now developing the operating numbers, but
> can
> tell you that the rate of climb and angle of climb with the turbocharged
> engine is stupendous!
>
> Cordially, John
> +++++++++++++++++++++
>
>
> >
> > I now have two keys on my desk. Made them myself during lunch from
> the
> > keyway stock I purchased. Thanks for the help guys.... Now I am
> > expecting to find the lost one any minute.
> >
> > Steve E.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: D.Dale Johnson [mailto:dd5john(at)juno.com]
> > To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Steve
> > The prop key on my tapered shaft 65 is 3/8 x 7/32 x 2 1/4 .
> > Not square
> > Dale Mpls,
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Long torque tube? |
I didn't, in fact I never even thought of that. but I
have it installed and it looks fine.
Del
--- catdesigns(at)juno.com wrote:
> catdesigns(at)juno.com
>
> Here is a question I have AFTER building my control
> torque tube. If I built the LONG fuselage should I
> have lengthened the torque tube 2 as well????
>
> Chris
> Sacramento, CA
>
>
>
> Forum -
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://finance.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary McNeel, Jr." <gmcneel(at)mykitplane.com> |
Congrats Corky. -Gary
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> Isablcorky(at)aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2002 11:56 AM
> To: pietenpol-list-digest(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Good people
>
>
> Pieters,
> Last week I mentioned on this net that I needed help on my carb.
> Thanks for
> the replies. Before I could remove it from 41 Chalie Chalie we
> were called to
> Indiana for a funeral. I went to the hanger this morning
> expecting to remove
> the carb and ship it to N J . There was a memo taped to the cowl saying,"
> Corky, carb has been removed, cleaned, adjusted and DON'T mess
> with it as the
> engine runs beautifully". All by some good friends. How bout those apples.
> It did run great and I did my first taxiing. Found the tailwheel
> oversensitive at first as its geometry is different from the
> rudder but after
> awhile I got used to it and all is well. Had another pilot play
> with it for
> awhile and his only comment was the a/s show 40 when the engine
> revved up and
> was not moving. Might better move the pitot out to the strut fitting.
> Otherwise, Corky is writing an invitation to the Fedman today.
> Hope he gets
> here before Christmas.
> Corky in La driving his T/D down the taxiway.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LAWRENCE WILLIAMS" <lnawms(at)msn.com> |
Regaling others with tales of narrow escapes and superior skill makes you a better
talker than a flier.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dilatush" <dilatush(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Prop carving and flight testing. |
Doug,
Yes, I have carved a new prop for the Piet and even got a racing prop carved
for his Formula 1 racer that he is taking to Reno next month.
The Piet is flying fine and I am now debugging a few of the engine problems.
This morning I will start the formal flight tests to develop some numbers
that I can rely on, rates of climb at altitude, stall speed, speeds at
various power settings and hopefully if there is time and the air doesn't
get too rough, some fuel consumption figures. All of these numbers will
have to be developed between 9 and 11 thousand feet because of our field
elevation (7946 ft). Gets too cold to find out service ceiling right now.
Will let the list know the results in the fall. We are leaving for vacation
during September.
Cordially,
John Dilatush NX114D
Salida, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu> |
I'll provide the flying platform and the zoom lens digital. Just let me
know when and where....
Steve e
-----Original Message-----
From: John Dilatush [mailto:dilatush(at)amigo.net]
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Steve,
Sorry, don't have any flying pictures yet, although a couple of the guys
took some from the ground when I did a fly-by. I am waiting for some
brave
soul to fly formation with me and take some shots with a zoom lens on a
digital camera, then let me have a copy that I can e-Mail. That is if I
can
get smart enough to figure out how to sent them out! When this happens,
I'll get them to you.
Cordially, John
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
> John!
>
> Good to hear from you again. Glad things are working out well with
your
> piet. I could use some extra power too, but solo is just fine. Got
any
> pictures of your flying piet?
>
> Stev eE
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Dilatush [mailto:dilatush(at)amigo.net]
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
> To:
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> ++++++++++++++++++++
> Steve, didn't you know this is the best way to find the lost part?
>
> My Piet is flying great, am now developing the operating numbers, but
> can
> tell you that the rate of climb and angle of climb with the
turbocharged
> engine is stupendous!
>
> Cordially, John
> +++++++++++++++++++++
>
>
> >
> > I now have two keys on my desk. Made them myself during lunch from
> the
> > keyway stock I purchased. Thanks for the help guys.... Now I am
> > expecting to find the lost one any minute.
> >
> > Steve E.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: D.Dale Johnson [mailto:dd5john(at)juno.com]
> > To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Steve
> > The prop key on my tapered shaft 65 is 3/8 x 7/32 x 2 1/4 .
> > Not square
> > Dale Mpls,
> >
> >
>
>
=
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Long torque tube? |
| From: | catdesigns(at)juno.com |
Del, where did the control stick bottom bolt end up? Is it centered between the
back of the front seat and the forward support of the rear seat or is it offset
to the towords the back seat? Does this provide room for enough forward stick
movement? It takes a tone of forward stick to stay inverted in a Citabria
and I'm worried this may limit my ability to fly the Piet inverted. This may
not be a problem because I hear that Piets are sensitive in pitch and not roll.
(Just trying to see if you are all awake out there. I have no plans to do
acrobatics.) I do wish the plans were a little more clear on the placement of
the torque tube.
Chris
Sacramento, CA
---------- del magsam writes:
From: del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Long torque tube?
Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 20:23:33 -0700 (PDT)
I didn't, in fact I never even thought of that. but I
have it installed and it looks fine.
Del
--- catdesigns(at)juno.com wrote:
> catdesigns(at)juno.com
>
> Here is a question I have AFTER building my control
> torque tube. If I built the LONG fuselage should I
> have lengthened the torque tube 2 as well????
>
> Chris
> Sacramento, CA
>
>
>
> Forum -
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://finance.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Long torque tube? |
Chris
looks like it is about 1 inch behind center(between
front seat back and back seat front)if you fly
inverted without the seatbelt you probably won;t be
able to reach the stick :>)
Del
--- catdesigns(at)juno.com wrote:
> catdesigns(at)juno.com
>
> Del, where did the control stick bottom bolt end up?
> Is it centered between the back of the front seat
> and the forward support of the rear seat or is it
> offset to the towords the back seat? Does this
> provide room for enough forward stick movement? It
> takes a tone of forward stick to stay inverted in a
> Citabria and I'm worried this may limit my ability
> to fly the Piet inverted. This may not be a problem
> because I hear that Piets are sensitive in pitch and
> not roll. (Just trying to see if you are all awake
> out there. I have no plans to do acrobatics.) I do
> wish the plans were a little more clear on the
> placement of the torque tube.
>
> Chris
> Sacramento, CA
>
> ---------- del magsam
> writes:
>
> From: del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com>
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Long torque tube?
> Date: Wed, 28 Aug 2002 20:23:33 -0700 (PDT)
>
>
>
> I didn't, in fact I never even thought of that. but
> I
> have it installed and it looks fine.
> Del
> --- catdesigns(at)juno.com wrote:
> > catdesigns(at)juno.com
> >
> > Here is a question I have AFTER building my
> control
> > torque tube. If I built the LONG fuselage should
> I
> > have lengthened the torque tube 2 as well????
> >
> > Chris
> > Sacramento, CA
> >
> >
> >
> > Forum -
> > Contributions of
> > any other form
> >
> > latest messages.
> > other List members.
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> > http://www.matronics.com/search
> > http://www.matronics.com/archives
> > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> http://finance.yahoo.com
>
>
>
> Forum -
> Contributions of
> any other form
>
> latest messages.
> other List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://finance.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dilatush" <dilatush(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Hub Key |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++Thanks Steve,
But with the cost to fly over there, I can buy a digital camera, and send
the pictures to you!
John
>
> I'll provide the flying platform and the zoom lens digital. Just let me
> know when and where....
>
> Steve e
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Dilatush [mailto:dilatush(at)amigo.net]
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
> To:
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> Steve,
>
> Sorry, don't have any flying pictures yet, although a couple of the guys
> took some from the ground when I did a fly-by. I am waiting for some
> brave
> soul to fly formation with me and take some shots with a zoom lens on a
> digital camera, then let me have a copy that I can e-Mail. That is if I
> can
> get smart enough to figure out how to sent them out! When this happens,
> I'll get them to you.
>
> Cordially, John
> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
>
> >
> > John!
> >
> > Good to hear from you again. Glad things are working out well with
> your
> > piet. I could use some extra power too, but solo is just fine. Got
> any
> > pictures of your flying piet?
> >
> > Stev eE
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: John Dilatush [mailto:dilatush(at)amigo.net]
> > To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
> > To:
> > Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> > ++++++++++++++++++++
> > Steve, didn't you know this is the best way to find the lost part?
> >
> > My Piet is flying great, am now developing the operating numbers, but
> > can
> > tell you that the rate of climb and angle of climb with the
> turbocharged
> > engine is stupendous!
> >
> > Cordially, John
> > +++++++++++++++++++++
> >
> >
>
> > >
> > > I now have two keys on my desk. Made them myself during lunch from
> > the
> > > keyway stock I purchased. Thanks for the help guys.... Now I am
> > > expecting to find the lost one any minute.
> > >
> > > Steve E.
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: D.Dale Johnson [mailto:dd5john(at)juno.com]
> > > To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi Steve
> > > The prop key on my tapered shaft 65 is 3/8 x 7/32 x 2 1/4 .
> > > Not square
> > > Dale Mpls,
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu> |
Since when did we start taking sensibly? If not a $100 hamburger, why
not a $100 picture? We could meet in Grand Junction... :)
Steve E
-----Original Message-----
From: John Dilatush [mailto:dilatush(at)amigo.net]
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++Thanks Steve,
But with the cost to fly over there, I can buy a digital camera, and
send
the pictures to you!
John
>
> I'll provide the flying platform and the zoom lens digital. Just let
me
> know when and where....
>
> Steve e
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Dilatush [mailto:dilatush(at)amigo.net]
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
> To:
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> Steve,
>
> Sorry, don't have any flying pictures yet, although a couple of the
guys
> took some from the ground when I did a fly-by. I am waiting for some
> brave
> soul to fly formation with me and take some shots with a zoom lens on
a
> digital camera, then let me have a copy that I can e-Mail. That is if
I
> can
> get smart enough to figure out how to sent them out! When this
happens,
> I'll get them to you.
>
> Cordially, John
> +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
>
> >
> > John!
> >
> > Good to hear from you again. Glad things are working out well with
> your
> > piet. I could use some extra power too, but solo is just fine. Got
> any
> > pictures of your flying piet?
> >
> > Stev eE
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: John Dilatush [mailto:dilatush(at)amigo.net]
> > To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
> > To:
> > Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> > ++++++++++++++++++++
> > Steve, didn't you know this is the best way to find the lost part?
> >
> > My Piet is flying great, am now developing the operating numbers,
but
> > can
> > tell you that the rate of climb and angle of climb with the
> turbocharged
> > engine is stupendous!
> >
> > Cordially, John
> > +++++++++++++++++++++
> >
> >
>
> > >
> > > I now have two keys on my desk. Made them myself during lunch
from
> > the
> > > keyway stock I purchased. Thanks for the help guys.... Now I am
> > > expecting to find the lost one any minute.
> > >
> > > Steve E.
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: D.Dale Johnson [mailto:dd5john(at)juno.com]
> > > To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi Steve
> > > The prop key on my tapered shaft 65 is 3/8 x 7/32 x 2 1/4 .
> > > Not square
> > > Dale Mpls,
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
=
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dennis Engelkenjohn <wingding(at)usmo.com> |
Hi all:
I'm back with more questions:
1. On the drawing, there are spruce wedges shown between the
struts in 3 places. Is the drawing saying to put them in only these 3
places or is it saying to put them at every intersection, both 2 strut
junctures and 3 strut intersections?
2. On the fuselage drawing for the extended fuselage, it looks
like the firewall extends up into the cowling area and is curved like
the instrument panel. It looks like the fuselage would be 24" wide and
32 3/4" tall.? (24" fuselage height + 8 3/4" height of instrument panel)
Dennis Engelkenjohn
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dilatush" <dilatush(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop Hub Key |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Steve,
You are right of course, however, I would have trouble explaining it to my
most logical wife!
Flew some rate of climb tests this morning. Timed 10 to 11, 11 to 12, and
12 to 13 thousand feet climbs but forgot to reset the stopwatch on the 13 to
14 thousand climb. Got so darned cold I had no desire to repeat and went
back to the airport! Maybe tomorrow.
John
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
> Since when did we start taking sensibly? If not a $100 hamburger, why
> not a $100 picture? We could meet in Grand Junction... :)
>
> Steve E
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Dilatush [mailto:dilatush(at)amigo.net]
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
> To:
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++> Thanks Steve,
>
> But with the cost to fly over there, I can buy a digital camera, and
> send
> the pictures to you!
>
> John
>
>
> >
> > I'll provide the flying platform and the zoom lens digital. Just let
> me
> > know when and where....
> >
> > Steve e
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: John Dilatush [mailto:dilatush(at)amigo.net]
> > To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
> > To:
> > Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> > Steve,
> >
> > Sorry, don't have any flying pictures yet, although a couple of the
> guys
> > took some from the ground when I did a fly-by. I am waiting for some
> > brave
> > soul to fly formation with me and take some shots with a zoom lens on
> a
> > digital camera, then let me have a copy that I can e-Mail. That is if
> I
> > can
> > get smart enough to figure out how to sent them out! When this
> happens,
> > I'll get them to you.
> >
> > Cordially, John
> > +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> >
> >
>
> > >
> > > John!
> > >
> > > Good to hear from you again. Glad things are working out well with
> > your
> > > piet. I could use some extra power too, but solo is just fine. Got
> > any
> > > pictures of your flying piet?
> > >
> > > Stev eE
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: John Dilatush [mailto:dilatush(at)amigo.net]
> > > To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> > > ++++++++++++++++++++
> > > Steve, didn't you know this is the best way to find the lost part?
> > >
> > > My Piet is flying great, am now developing the operating numbers,
> but
> > > can
> > > tell you that the rate of climb and angle of climb with the
> > turbocharged
> > > engine is stupendous!
> > >
> > > Cordially, John
> > > +++++++++++++++++++++
> > >
> > >
> >
> > > >
> > > > I now have two keys on my desk. Made them myself during lunch
> from
> > > the
> > > > keyway stock I purchased. Thanks for the help guys.... Now I am
> > > > expecting to find the lost one any minute.
> > > >
> > > > Steve E.
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: D.Dale Johnson [mailto:dd5john(at)juno.com]
> > > > To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> > > > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Hi Steve
> > > > The prop key on my tapered shaft 65 is 3/8 x 7/32 x 2 1/4 .
> > > > Not square
> > > > Dale Mpls,
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Grentzer" <flyboy_120(at)hotmail.com> |
Dennis...the spruce wedges only go at the locations pointed to in the
plans, not at every intersection of the fuselage,BUT wedges should also be
put in the fore and aft corners of the indicated areas so that the entire
gusset area is filled in. I learned this the hard way and had to put the
wedges in after the gussets were on ( not as much fun ).
These are the areas where the lift strut fittings bolt on to later on.
the bolts go through the fore and aft sides of those gussets and if there is
no filler blocks in there, there is nothing to support the bolt compression.
Just another one of those " Oh I forgot to tell you "
places in the Piet plans. I don't have the long fuse plans so can't help you
there. Ed Grentzer Florida
>From: Dennis Engelkenjohn <wingding(at)usmo.com>
>Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: 2 questions
>Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2002 22:01:45 -0700
>
>
>
>Hi all:
>
> I'm back with more questions:
>
> 1. On the drawing, there are spruce wedges shown between the
>struts in 3 places. Is the drawing saying to put them in only these 3
>places or is it saying to put them at every intersection, both 2 strut
>junctures and 3 strut intersections?
>
> 2. On the fuselage drawing for the extended fuselage, it looks
>like the firewall extends up into the cowling area and is curved like
>the instrument panel. It looks like the fuselage would be 24" wide and
>32 3/4" tall.? (24" fuselage height + 8 3/4" height of instrument panel)
>
>Dennis Engelkenjohn
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu> |
I respectfully concede my title of highest flying piet! 14K?! You
could resupply climbers on any of the 52 fourteeners in CO. Bundle up!
Steve E.
-----Original Message-----
From: John Dilatush [mailto:dilatush(at)amigo.net]
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Steve,
You are right of course, however, I would have trouble explaining it to
my
most logical wife!
Flew some rate of climb tests this morning. Timed 10 to 11, 11 to 12,
and
12 to 13 thousand feet climbs but forgot to reset the stopwatch on the
13 to
14 thousand climb. Got so darned cold I had no desire to repeat and
went
back to the airport! Maybe tomorrow.
John
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
> Since when did we start taking sensibly? If not a $100 hamburger, why
> not a $100 picture? We could meet in Grand Junction... :)
>
> Steve E
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Dilatush [mailto:dilatush(at)amigo.net]
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
> To:
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++> Thanks Steve,
>
> But with the cost to fly over there, I can buy a digital camera, and
> send
> the pictures to you!
>
> John
>
>
> >
> > I'll provide the flying platform and the zoom lens digital. Just
let
> me
> > know when and where....
> >
> > Steve e
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: John Dilatush [mailto:dilatush(at)amigo.net]
> > To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
> > To:
> > Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> > ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> > Steve,
> >
> > Sorry, don't have any flying pictures yet, although a couple of the
> guys
> > took some from the ground when I did a fly-by. I am waiting for
some
> > brave
> > soul to fly formation with me and take some shots with a zoom lens
on
> a
> > digital camera, then let me have a copy that I can e-Mail. That is
if
> I
> > can
> > get smart enough to figure out how to sent them out! When this
> happens,
> > I'll get them to you.
> >
> > Cordially, John
> > +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> >
> >
>
> > >
> > > John!
> > >
> > > Good to hear from you again. Glad things are working out well
with
> > your
> > > piet. I could use some extra power too, but solo is just fine.
Got
> > any
> > > pictures of your flying piet?
> > >
> > > Stev eE
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: John Dilatush [mailto:dilatush(at)amigo.net]
> > > To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> > > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
> > > To:
> > > Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> > > ++++++++++++++++++++
> > > Steve, didn't you know this is the best way to find the lost part?
> > >
> > > My Piet is flying great, am now developing the operating numbers,
> but
> > > can
> > > tell you that the rate of climb and angle of climb with the
> > turbocharged
> > > engine is stupendous!
> > >
> > > Cordially, John
> > > +++++++++++++++++++++
> > >
> > >
> >
> > > >
> > > > I now have two keys on my desk. Made them myself during lunch
> from
> > > the
> > > > keyway stock I purchased. Thanks for the help guys.... Now I
am
> > > > expecting to find the lost one any minute.
> > > >
> > > > Steve E.
> > > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: D.Dale Johnson [mailto:dd5john(at)juno.com]
> > > > To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> > > > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop Hub Key
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Hi Steve
> > > > The prop key on my tapered shaft 65 is 3/8 x 7/32 x 2 1/4 .
> > > > Not square
> > > > Dale Mpls,
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
=
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/pietenpol-list
=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isablcorky(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fwd: FW: RE: Oshkosh wreckage |
Sent to the list by request of Joe C.
Corky in La
From: "Joe Czaplicki" <fishin3(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: FW: RE: Oshkosh wreckage
Date: Fri, 30 Aug 2002 9:43:15 -0500
Hi Corky; Will you forward this to the "list" for me. I tried to answer some questions
that popped up the other day but went sent couldn't seem to go thru..I
dunno, something about plain text etc etc etc.
Glad to hear you've started the taxi tests. How's she handling at high speed taxi??
Now don't you succumb to temptation just yet. Be safe and have fun.
JoeC 99621
Subject: FW: RE: Oshkosh wreckage
For those asking about the wreckage for sale at the fly-market (Oshkosh), here
is the story. It was being flown out of a southern Wisc grass strip by an IL resident.
Being a friend of his I won't mention his name to protect his privacy.
This Piet was originally Model B powered but in later and current years it had
an A65 and was a great flyer. Reason for the engine change was too many times
a glider pilot.
The accident took place on a west bound departure with an uphill grade at the west
end of the field. As the plane was airborne and approached the uphill grade
the front seat passenger turned around in his seat to ask why the lack of climb
(was climbing with the uphill grade).
In doing so his knee pushed the stick far left ,,,too close to the ground for recovery
by the pilot. The pilotwas injured and was in the hospital for some time
and the passenger just had a large bruise on his knee from the stick when the
pilot tried to wrestle it from him.
moral of this story is-----make that front stick removable and get it out when
taking passengers.
Hope this answers your questions.
JoeC 99621
--- Joe Czaplicki
--- fishin3(at)earthlink.net
--- EarthLink: The #1 provider of the Real Internet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | steamlaunch(at)softhome.net |
Those considering to build without rib stiching should read the report found
at:
August 09, 2002 - August 30, 2002
Pietenpol-Archive.digest.vol-ct