Pietenpol-Archive.digest.vol-db
February 21, 2003 - March 31, 2003
>
> Walt,
>
> Sounds right, I just couldn't figure out how to spell "shinker", so I
looked
> it up in a Wag Aero catalog and it said stretcher.
>
> PS these guys talking about Tony Bingels way must have never seen the nice
> job a shinker will do. However I do realize the tool is expensive, and
> hacksaws, and drills are not making Tony's way a little more feasible for
> most.
>
> Dan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gadd, Skip" <Skip.Gadd(at)ssa.gov> |
John,
Great pictures! You did get the ID correct.
I would like to see more.
Skip, Still working on wheel hubs in atlanta.
>The yellow Piet is Larry Williams and the Blue one is Dennis Hall's. I
think
>I got the identification right. I have a few more from this year and last
if
>anyone cares. Enjoy!
>-john-
http://www.johnnyskyrocket.com/bh/
Follow the above link for the photos.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gower <ggower_99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall shaping |
My brother Larry made on "shrinker" with a cleco tool (we bought 5
CTools with our kits and never use more than 3 at a time).
He welding 3 rods aligned, then we file shaped it, it works perfect.
Was used to build our Stailess Steel firewall.
No cost to build (just the cost of the Cleco Tool.
Saludos
Gary Gower
--- ZigoDan(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Walt,
>
> Sounds right, I just couldn't figure out how to spell "shinker", so I
> looked
> it up in a Wag Aero catalog and it said stretcher.
>
> PS these guys talking about Tony Bingels way must have never seen the
> nice
> job a shinker will do. However I do realize the tool is expensive,
> and
> hacksaws, and drills are not making Tony's way a little more feasible
> for
> most.
>
> Dan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
I made the curved type from the print. Why not make a cardboard mock-up of
that one (I assume you got the print in your plans) and hold it up and see
how tall it is. Make the square one just as high. In my three and a half
hours on mine , it seems just right.
walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Windshield
>
> Here's a question for the colleective wisdom of this group. I'm about to
> make the windshields for my Pietenpol (the last task before beginning to
> cover it!). I'm making the flat style three piece windshield rather than
> the curved type. Does anyone know what the typical design parameters are
> for windshields? Should they come up as high as the pilot's eyes, or even
> with the top of the pilot's head? I believe the old Wacos reduced the
> windblast effect somewhat by sloping the front windshield pretty severely,
> but that is not really an option with a Pietenpol due to the roll wires
> between the front cabane struts. How tall have other folks made their
> windshields, and are they happy with the results?
>
> Jack Phillips
> NX899JP
> Raleigh, NC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratril" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
| Subject: | another windshield Q |
I have already cut my lexan from a template. Now I would like to heat form it.
Does anyone have ideas of heating required and methods for bending? I dont
have much scrap left to play with.
Dick N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | another windshield Q |
| From: | "Kent Hallsten" <KHallsten(at)governair.com> |
> I have already cut my lexan from a template. Now I would
> like to heat form it. Does anyone have ideas of heating
> required and methods for bending? I dont have much scrap
> left to play with.
> Dick N.
>
Dick,
I have seen a web site(s) where the builder heats up the plastic in a kitchen
oven, low heat I believe. They would have the windshield laying on a mold
that had the curved shape they desired. I think the mold had a layer of carpet
to help protect the plastic. As the windshield got warm it would drape
itself over the mold. Maybe you can do a Google search and come across this,
sorry I can't be of more help but it's been a long time since I saw it. I thought
it was neat when I saw it, but realized my kitchen oven is a bit too small
to pack a windshield into it. Your oven may work, of course.
Kent Hallsten
Oklahoma City
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Markle" <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Result of Pietenpol-List archive search for "Lexan"......: |
another windshield Q
Match: #34
Message: #11342
From: "Michael Conkling" <hpvs(at)southwind.net>
Subject: Re: Windshield Framing Material
Date: May 21, 2000
If you use a piece of Lexan or equal, you can bend it in a sheet metal
brake -- a cardboard template will let you know the shape & size -- 3/32"
or
1/8" material should do the job -- use at least a 1 to 2 thickness inside
radius so you don't have any cracks on the edges. Plex has to be heated
along the bend to be formed that way.
Mike C.
Pretty Prairie, KS
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Navratril" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: another windshield Q
>
> I have already cut my lexan from a template. Now I would like to heat
form it. Does anyone have ideas of heating required and methods for
bending? I dont have much scrap left to play with.
> Dick N.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: another windshield Q |
Hi Dick
lexan is extremely hard to heat form. but you can cold
bend it somewhat. if you want to heat form it, I would
buy PETG. It is tough like lexan, forms as easy as
acrylic, and is very cheap. you have to keep it
covered in hot weather though as it deforms easier.
two ways to form it is either drape it over a plug,
using hot oil to heat it. the plug should be covered
in the best cotton sheet and soaked with hot peanut
oil. or clamping it in a form, heating it in an oven
and free blowing it with air pressure. there was an
article a couple months ago in custom planes that was
really informative.
Del
--- Richard Navratril wrote:
> Navratril"
>
> I have already cut my lexan from a template. Now I
> would like to heat form it. Does anyone have ideas
> of heating required and methods for bending? I dont
> have much scrap left to play with.
> Dick N.
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
>
Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/pietenpol-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Del-New Richmond, Wi
"farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com"
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Firewall shaping |
Hold on your brother did not build a metal shinker out of Cleco pliers?
But he may have built some fluting, or crimping pliers.
There is a big difference, with fluting pliers you get a ripple to the metal
edge. What I have been talking about that makes the best and most
professional look is a shinker-stretcher, and it has special powerful jaws.
I have the AS catalog with the Luscombe on the front, on page 460 look at the
Original Lancaster metal former and tell me if your brother really made one
of these? If so my hat is off to him.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: another windshield Q |
Dick,
Do not heat form it, bend it in a sheet metal brake. It bends just metal,
try it on scrap in a vice. If you do not have a brake, go to a local Heating
and Air duct shop and use theirs.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
"Fishnet"
| Subject: | do the nozzles shut off automatically?? |
I'm ashamed to admit ,that when I started flying, I flew a club plane that was
always fueled by a line/fuel guy with a roving gas truck.
Every plane from way back then till 6 years ago was always full when I got it.
Then, got into Ultralights, and the " carry/mix your own fuel."
Well anyway,,,now my Pietenpol is flying, and the first few main tank fulls I hand
carried from the airport next door, with 100LL.
Soon it'll be time to grow up and fly to my second permitted airport , in Phase
1 , for fuel in Sussex NJ, to the north.
I have a 14 gal main/nose tank, and a 10 gal center/ top wing tank ( that feeds
by gravity to the main tank)
I know the mess that I've had fuelling the U/L with a gas can, and over filling.
Do the AV GAS pump nozzles shut off automatically like a car gas nozzle?
I've only put some gas in planes since, and never filled them up. Can I over fill
the top tank and fill up the cockpit and my seat?
Or do I have to do the " watch the gallons and do the finger wave thing"?
What I'm asking is,,,"do the nozzles shut off automatically?"
walt
NX140DL
(north N.J.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gower <ggower_99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall shaping |
Hi Dan,
You are right, what he made this time was crimping pliers...
I could not find the tool you mentioned, he builds tools (mainly
stamping type), my english is limited in some areas, for what I
understand. Is this one the type that goes in the hidraulic long press
to make kind of "waves" to reinforce the thin metal?...
He made one that we plan to use in our Zenith 701 for the bottom
inspection door, normaly the part from the kit comes with bents from
the corner to the center (like air conditioning ducts).
Well, sorry for my mistake.
Saludos
Gary Gower.
--- ZigoDan(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hold on your brother did not build a metal shinker out of Cleco
> pliers?
> But he may have built some fluting, or crimping pliers.
> There is a big difference, with fluting pliers you get a ripple to
> the metal
> edge. What I have been talking about that makes the best and most
> professional look is a shinker-stretcher, and it has special powerful
> jaws.
> I have the AS catalog with the Luscombe on the front, on page 460
> look at the
> Original Lancaster metal former and tell me if your brother really
> made one
> of these? If so my hat is off to him.
>
> Dan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Malley <jgmalley(at)comcast.net> |
Whatever type windshield you build, I suggest making it high enough to send
the air over your head. About 20 years ago I flew in one Piet with a low
windshield, it was a nice flying airplane and comfortable at first, but the
blast on my forehead was tiring after a while. You'll find that the higher
windshield will also be greatly appreciated in cool weather. Unfortunately,
the windshield can't be raked too much for the reasons you describe, but
they make neat clear speed brakes, though. Jim Malley
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Windshield
>
> Here's a question for the colleective wisdom of this group. I'm about to
> make the windshields for my Pietenpol (the last task before beginning to
> cover it!). I'm making the flat style three piece windshield rather than
> the curved type. Does anyone know what the typical design parameters are
> for windshields? Should they come up as high as the pilot's eyes, or even
> with the top of the pilot's head? I believe the old Wacos reduced the
> windblast effect somewhat by sloping the front windshield pretty severely,
> but that is not really an option with a Pietenpol due to the roll wires
> between the front cabane struts. How tall have other folks made their
> windshields, and are they happy with the results?
>
> Jack Phillips
> NX899JP
> Raleigh, NC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: help needed in Oklahoma (off-topic) |
In a message dated 2/20/2003 2:55:23 PM Pacific Standard Time,
taildrags(at)hotmail.com writes:
> Hello, folks;
>
> A buddy lost his Tri-Pacer in a non-flying ground incident and is looking
> to
> replace it ASAP. One of the airplanes he's looking at is in Guthrie, OK
> and
> he only has verbal info and photos of it, so I'm trying to help find
> someone
> reliable who might be able to actually eyeball the airplane for a second
> opinion. Any of you good Pieters near Guthrie? Email me off-net; thanks.
>
Oscar,
I live in Wichita, Kansas which is about 120 miles North of Guthrie. I would
be willing to go look at the plane. Let me know the details and if there is
still a need. Doug Bryant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isablcorky(at)aol.com |
Pieters,
Having read the net today I feel I should ground N41CC as I did not do any of
these good things you are discussing.
First. I used Lexan for my two windshields. After making patterns from poster
boards and fabing my five attaching clips I bent, drilled and bolted it down
without heat, peanut oil or any other aids you talk about. SHE FLIES.
Second. On the fire wall thing. I used a sheet of .032 Stainless steel cut to
shape of firewall without any crimping or flanging. I did make it in two
parts, the lower part removable for maintenance on fuel system and cut off
valves etc and access to the front rudder pedals.
They say this thing is experimental and boy did I experiment. SHE FLIES
Hope this is not too offensive for you purists.
Corky in La with 4 ribs completed on N84CC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net> |
Pretty good idea, Walt. Now if I can just find that windshield pattern that
came with the plans seven years ago ...
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of walter
evans
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Windshield
I made the curved type from the print. Why not make a cardboard mock-up of
that one (I assume you got the print in your plans) and hold it up and see
how tall it is. Make the square one just as high. In my three and a half
hours on mine , it seems just right.
walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Windshield
>
> Here's a question for the colleective wisdom of this group. I'm about to
> make the windshields for my Pietenpol (the last task before beginning to
> cover it!). I'm making the flat style three piece windshield rather than
> the curved type. Does anyone know what the typical design parameters are
> for windshields? Should they come up as high as the pilot's eyes, or even
> with the top of the pilot's head? I believe the old Wacos reduced the
> windblast effect somewhat by sloping the front windshield pretty severely,
> but that is not really an option with a Pietenpol due to the roll wires
> between the front cabane struts. How tall have other folks made their
> windshields, and are they happy with the results?
>
> Jack Phillips
> NX899JP
> Raleigh, NC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | another windshield Q |
Hi Dick,
Years ago I did some heat forming of Lexan. It doesn't take much
temperature - maybe 200 deg. in your wife's oven. It will be very pliable
after a few minutes in the oven and can be draped over a form to cool. To
get really slick, make your form of aluminum with tiny holes drilled on 1"
squares and a plenum chamber on the back side connected to a vacuum (like a
shop vac). Put the softened lexan in place, turn on the vacuum and it will
quickly take the shape of the form.
Be careful with Lexan. Lexan is a polycarbonate and is highly susceptible
to a phenomenon known as "stress-cracking". What happens is that while
polycarbonate is very strong, in the presence of some solvents it loses
strength very rapidly, to the point that any locked in stresses (such as the
stresses applied by the bolts holding the windshiedl in place) can cause
cracks to develop. Unfortunately, one of the solvents that causes this is
gasoline. If you have any stresses in the windshield and spill a little gas
on it, it will likely begin to crack around the screw holes. I once saw a
Lexan windshield on a Starduster Too get some 100 octane splashed on it and
the whole thing just crazed and shattered right before my eyes. I was
working the line at the airport and certainly was glad that the owner had
fueled the plane, instead of me being responsible. Acrylic (plexiglas) is
not as strong as polycarbonate, but is not so susceptible to stress
cracking.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard
Navratril
Subject: Pietenpol-List: another windshield Q
I have already cut my lexan from a template. Now I would like to heat form
it. Does anyone have ideas of heating required and methods for bending? I
dont have much scrap left to play with.
Dick N.
________________________________________________________________________________
Corky,
To each his own, that's the great thing about homebuilts.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: another windshield Q |
Jack,
I know what you mean, my Hipps Reliant has a Lexan windshields and is
cracking right around the filler neck area where gas has splashed on it.
Makes me wonder if this is the reason most certified windshields are made
from Plexiglass?
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | do the nozzles shut off automatically?? |
Some do, some don't. It just depends on what kind of nozzles they have. It
also depends on the shape of your tank. My Cessna 140's tanks were so flat
on the top that even though the fuel pump at the airport where I had it
based had the shutoff in the nozzle, by the time the nozzle shutoff I still
had spilled close to a quart of fuel.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of walter
evans
Subject: Pietenpol-List: do the nozzles shut off automatically??
I'm ashamed to admit ,that when I started flying, I flew a club plane that
was always fueled by a line/fuel guy with a roving gas truck.
Every plane from way back then till 6 years ago was always full when I got
it.
Then, got into Ultralights, and the " carry/mix your own fuel."
Well anyway,,,now my Pietenpol is flying, and the first few main tank fulls
I hand carried from the airport next door, with 100LL.
Soon it'll be time to grow up and fly to my second permitted airport , in
Phase 1 , for fuel in Sussex NJ, to the north.
I have a 14 gal main/nose tank, and a 10 gal center/ top wing tank ( that
feeds by gravity to the main tank)
I know the mess that I've had fuelling the U/L with a gas can, and over
filling.
Do the AV GAS pump nozzles shut off automatically like a car gas nozzle?
I've only put some gas in planes since, and never filled them up. Can I
over fill the top tank and fill up the cockpit and my seat?
Or do I have to do the " watch the gallons and do the finger wave thing"?
What I'm asking is,,,"do the nozzles shut off automatically?"
walt
NX140DL
(north N.J.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net> |
Not offensive at all, Corky. My only reason to comment on Lexan was to be
very careful not to spill gasoline on it, or you may not be very happy with
the results.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Isablcorky(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Windshield
Pieters,
Having read the net today I feel I should ground N41CC as I did not do any
of
these good things you are discussing.
First. I used Lexan for my two windshields. After making patterns from
poster
boards and fabing my five attaching clips I bent, drilled and bolted it down
without heat, peanut oil or any other aids you talk about. SHE FLIES.
Second. On the fire wall thing. I used a sheet of .032 Stainless steel cut
to
shape of firewall without any crimping or flanging. I did make it in two
parts, the lower part removable for maintenance on fuel system and cut off
valves etc and access to the front rudder pedals.
They say this thing is experimental and boy did I experiment. SHE FLIES
Hope this is not too offensive for you purists.
Corky in La with 4 ribs completed on N84CC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lshutks(at)webtv.net (Leon Stefan) |
| Subject: | Fuel nozzle shut off |
Walt: Ditto what Jack said. At the 2 different airports where I have
spent time, the hoses were about 3" dia. and flowed about 200 gal. per
min. and they were HEAVY. I think if I rested the nozzle on my Piet's
filler neck, it would tare the neck out of my fiberglass tank. With the
speed of those pumps, there was no need to start the pump and go do
other things like you would do with your car at the Gas n Go while
counting on the pump to kick off on it's own. Leon S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isablcorky(at)aol.com |
Thanks Jack,
We should, and do, learn something everyday. I hope and Pray that I don't
find out something TOO LATE so keep that good stuff acomin.
Corky, ready to fly when this rain stops
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: do the nozzles shut off automatically?? |
Walt and others
here is a solution for refueling with cans that I came
up with. It worked well for me.
Del
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID=109
> I know the mess that I've had fuelling the U/L with
> a gas can, and over filling.
> walt
> NX140DL
> (north N.J.)
=====
Del-New Richmond, Wi
"farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com"
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Fast and slow pumps-- Walt !!! |
Walt--one thing I noticed when hopping around to various airport on
some pumps deliver high volumes and fast flows and others much less. It's
easy to overflow your tank (s) with some of these high volume ones less you
really watch what you are doing.
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
"Fishnet"
| Subject: | will an A-65 stop spinning? |
This question was brought on by the fact that, over the years I've seen two different
planes flying over, backfiring like mad.
That made me think of,,,what if I lost a mag in my A-65? I'd have to shut off the
bad one and run on the good one to get me home. What if the first one you
select is the bad one and the engine dies?
Here's the question,,,An A-65 with a wood prop, let's say pulled back to idle,
and you shut off the mags. Would the engine keep spinning? Would it make a
difference if you were at cruise or flying slow?
Posed this question to my Mentor and he said he'd never actually done it. But
if I wanted to know, go up and try it.
Figured I'd ask you guys/girls on your past experiences
walt
NX140DL
(north N.J.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ken breier" <kbreier(at)attbi.com> |
| Subject: | Rodder's Roundtable - Plastic Windscreen |
For more on the windscreen shaping
http://www.roddingroundtable.com/dcforum/DCForumID1/2686.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TomTravis(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: will an A-65 stop spinning? |
Walt,
It depends on the compression of the engine and the speed of the airplane.
The engine will usually continue to spin until you get fairly slow. If the
prop stops, a high-compression engine will take lots of speed to get turning
again - maybe more speed than a Piet can generate.
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | will an A-65 stop spinning? |
Hi Walt,
Years ago I used to practive airshow routines in a J-3 Cub. I had a
routine that ended with a loop above the runway at about 1,500 feet AGL. At
the top of the loop where the plane was going pretty slow, I would chop the
throttle and cut the mags. The prop would stop (and this was a metal prop
on a Continental A65) and then I would finish the loop, dive it to 120 mph
and loop it again without power. After that loop I would enter the pattern
and glide it in for a landing (the trick is to aim for the middle of the
runway - then you don't risk landing it too short). Once on the ground and
stopped, I would hop out, prop the engine and taxi it back to the crowd.
So to answer your question, no the engine WON'T keep spinning - not at idle
with a wooden prop at slow airspeeds. I never tried to see if I could
airstart it once I had it stopped. When I would dive it to 120 for the
second loop, the prop would slowly tick over but the engine wouldn't start
because I still had the ignition off. The Cub had a Vne of 125 mph and that
might have been enough to re-start the engine. The Piet should probably not
be flown that fast (I've assumed a Vne of 110mph for mine). It is fairly
safe to test this. Get up high above your airport (preferably with no one
else in the pattern) and cut the mags. First try a normal glide to see if
the prop will stop. If not, you can restart it if you like by just turning
the mags back on. If it does stop and you have enough altitude, try to dive
it to the redline airspeed and see if you can restart the engine. If you
don't have enough altitude or can't restart it, set up for a landing with
your "aiming point" the middle of the runway. You might find it glides
better with the prop stopped than with the drag of the windmilling engine.
If you are a little high, slip it to keep your touchdown near the center of
the runway. If too low, hopefully you will be able to make the runway or a
suitable overrun area. Obviously, it's best to practive this over a long
runway.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of walter
evans
Subject: Pietenpol-List: will an A-65 stop spinning?
This question was brought on by the fact that, over the years I've seen two
different planes flying over, backfiring like mad.
That made me think of,,,what if I lost a mag in my A-65? I'd have to shut
off the bad one and run on the good one to get me home. What if the first
one you select is the bad one and the engine dies?
Here's the question,,,An A-65 with a wood prop, let's say pulled back to
idle, and you shut off the mags. Would the engine keep spinning? Would it
make a difference if you were at cruise or flying slow?
Posed this question to my Mentor and he said he'd never actually done it.
But if I wanted to know, go up and try it.
Figured I'd ask you guys/girls on your past experiences
walt
NX140DL
(north N.J.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick and Marge Gillespie" <dickmarg(at)peganet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: will an A-65 stop spinning? |
Walt,
When I was a student with an instructor in the rear of a Champ (with an
A-65) I was practicing stalls at 3,000 AGL when the darned engine quit. It
was very quiet and the instsructor said " I got it." He dove it, the prop
started windmilling, and lo and behold it started.
DickG
----- Original Message -----
From: "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: will an A-65 stop spinning?
>
> This question was brought on by the fact that, over the years I've seen
two different planes flying over, backfiring like mad.
> That made me think of,,,what if I lost a mag in my A-65? I'd have to shut
off the bad one and run on the good one to get me home. What if the first
one you select is the bad one and the engine dies?
> Here's the question,,,An A-65 with a wood prop, let's say pulled back to
idle, and you shut off the mags. Would the engine keep spinning? Would it
make a difference if you were at cruise or flying slow?
> Posed this question to my Mentor and he said he'd never actually done it.
But if I wanted to know, go up and try it.
> Figured I'd ask you guys/girls on your past experiences
> walt
> NX140DL
> (north N.J.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary McNeel, Jr." <gmcneel(at)mykitplane.com> |
| Subject: | do the nozzles shut off automatically?? |
Walt, most are not automatic as at a gas station. The hose is usually
thicker and it comes out pretty fast. The one I often use needs to be
anticipated. After you let go of the pump handle there is still about a pint
or two left in the line that still needs to go somewhere (usually ends up on
the wing if I don't anticipate it right!). So I usually watch in the inlet
and about 1/2 to 1 inch before the top I stop.
Yesterday, while at the airport, the line fuel truck came and gassed up the
plane. Fuel went all of the wings from both fuel tanks. He didn't blink an
eye. The plane I was flying was a Citabria and I am guessing the paint was
of the "fleet" variety, maybe an epoxy or catalyzed enamel. What got me was
how cavalier the guy was, just spewed fuel on it. I will say it was pretty
windy, about 20-25 mph.
-Gary
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of walter
> evans
> Sent: Friday, February 21, 2003 4:49 PM
> To: piet discussion; Fishnet
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: do the nozzles shut off automatically??
>
>
>
>
> I'm ashamed to admit ,that when I started flying, I flew a club
> plane that was always fueled by a line/fuel guy with a roving gas truck.
> Every plane from way back then till 6 years ago was always full
> when I got it.
> Then, got into Ultralights, and the " carry/mix your own fuel."
> Well anyway,,,now my Pietenpol is flying, and the first few main
> tank fulls I hand carried from the airport next door, with 100LL.
> Soon it'll be time to grow up and fly to my second permitted
> airport , in Phase 1 , for fuel in Sussex NJ, to the north.
> I have a 14 gal main/nose tank, and a 10 gal center/ top wing
> tank ( that feeds by gravity to the main tank)
> I know the mess that I've had fuelling the U/L with a gas can,
> and over filling.
> Do the AV GAS pump nozzles shut off automatically like a car gas nozzle?
> I've only put some gas in planes since, and never filled them up.
> Can I over fill the top tank and fill up the cockpit and my seat?
> Or do I have to do the " watch the gallons and do the finger wave thing"?
> What I'm asking is,,,"do the nozzles shut off automatically?"
> walt
> NX140DL
> (north N.J.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: will an A-65 stop spinning? |
Walt,
I had a PA 22-108 with an Lycoming 0235, 1700 smoh, about 300 since top,
compression's check in the 70's metal prop. I flew it a lot and played
around, used to pull the mixture lean, and cut the mags, never had to use the
starter because it just kept wind milling. Tried to slow it down but never
got the prop to start. I would switch mags on, push full rich and aplly
power with no problem. I know it's a different engine and plane.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: will an A-65 stop spinning? |
I meant to say never got the prop to stop!
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratril" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
| Subject: | Re: will an A-65 stop spinning? |
Walt
I dont think you would want to shut off one mag to cure back firing. Each
mag has one plug on each cylinder.
Once, back in the late 70's I had an engine go out in a Cessna 150. I
landed in a field with no damage. The prop continued to windmill all of the
way down till I slowed for landing.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: will an A-65 stop spinning?
>
> This question was brought on by the fact that, over the years I've seen
two different planes flying over, backfiring like mad.
> That made me think of,,,what if I lost a mag in my A-65? I'd have to shut
off the bad one and run on the good one to get me home. What if the first
one you select is the bad one and the engine dies?
> Here's the question,,,An A-65 with a wood prop, let's say pulled back to
idle, and you shut off the mags. Would the engine keep spinning? Would it
make a difference if you were at cruise or flying slow?
> Posed this question to my Mentor and he said he'd never actually done it.
But if I wanted to know, go up and try it.
> Figured I'd ask you guys/girls on your past experiences
> walt
> NX140DL
> (north N.J.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratril" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
| Subject: | another windshield Q |
Thanks all for the help the other day.
My wife went out for the afternoon so I fired up the oven and practiced with a
few scraps then bent all of my pieces. My lexan was .125, 200 degrees for 6
minutes worked just fine. The Lexan I used came from a donation to our EAA chapter
and it had been stored for a long time and deformed, so it needed straightening.
I had also tried cold bending in a brake but that thicness did not work well.
Dick N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mark moir" <iammarktheman(at)msn.com> |
Quick question for you peitenpol builders and flyers. I am seriously
considering starting a peitenpol within the next year and would like to do
much of the smaller items in my basement woodshop. What is the approximate
tailspan of the horizontal stabilizer? It would be nicer to build the ribs
and the tail in my shop as that is where all my tools are but am concerned
that I may not have have enough room for the stabilizer. Thanks for any info
you might be able to provide me!
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clif <cdawson5854(at)shaw.ca> |
90" x 19" in my flying and glider manual. Clif
----- Original Message -----
From: "mark moir" <iammarktheman(at)msn.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Tailspan
>
> Quick question for you peitenpol builders and flyers. I am seriously
> considering starting a peitenpol within the next year and would like to do
> much of the smaller items in my basement woodshop. What is the approximate
> tailspan of the horizontal stabilizer? It would be nicer to build the ribs
> and the tail in my shop as that is where all my tools are but am concerned
> that I may not have have enough room for the stabilizer. Thanks for any
info
> you might be able to provide me!
> Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edwin Johnson <elj(at)shreve.net> |
| Subject: | will an A-65 stop spinning? |
Hello Walt,
Your answer, as you have already read, depends upon at least two
factors: 1) condition of the compression in your particular engine and
2) an airspeed fast enough to spin the prop.
The smaller engines, such as an A-65, will almost always begin windmilling
if you lower the nose and then restart if all is right in the engine. But
this depends on the compression condition in that engine.
I had a Luscombe with an A-65 in it and had in the course of ownership
both wooden and metal props. The engine always had better than average
compression. I stopped the engine with both props and generally couldn't
get it to stop windmilling unless near a stall.
The airport used to have a C-150 in which I gave instruction and I tried
it with the Cessna with the same results. However, that plane had an
overhaul and when returned the engine was rather tight with good
compression. We tried it then and the prop stopped. Lowering the nose a
little started the prop windmilling with no problem. Generally you don't
have to 'dive' the plane that fast to achieve windmilling.
Now the Piet has such a sink rate that altitude would matter if you
inadvertantly slowed the plane down and the prop stopped and you needed
the altitude to lower the nose. :) Keeping the plane gliding you would
probably never stop the prop with either metal or wooden prop.
Practice your engine out landings to determine speeds you need for
round-out and flair. _After_ you feel comfortable with that, then go up
and try it, over a decent size airport.
...Edwin
>
>
> Here's the question,,,An A-65 with a wood prop, let's say pulled back to idle,
> and you shut off the mags. Would the engine keep spinning? Would it make a
> difference if you were at cruise or flying slow?
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~ Edwin Johnson ....... elj(at)shreve.net ~
~ http://www.shreve.net/~elj ~
~ ~
~ "Once you have flown, you will walk the ~
~ earth with your eyes turned skyward, ~
~ for there you have been, there you long ~
~ to return." -- da Vinci ~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | just try not to touch that throttle----a test |
Walt/ Group,
While dreaming about lush green sod runways and gorgeous burnt orange and
yellow sunsets at 500 feet agl at 45 mph in the Pietenpol, (can you tell
we are still burried in snow ?) I wanted to tell you guys about a little
game I play with myself and the Piet when in the pattern shooting
landings. I choose an altitude and spot to bring the throttle back on
downwind then try not to touch the throttle till after touchdown. Not as
easy as I thought it would be in the Piet. These things are draggy. I
mean draggy. You need to hold the nose down further than any other plane
you have flown before to keep your speed sufficient with the engine at
idle. Compound that with a wind down the runway (which is the way most
of us try to land) and this becomes a game of "would I have clipped the
wires or made the runway ?". I'm amazed at how many times I would have
not made the runway if that burst of power were not available.
To make the Piet fly more like our old Champ or a Cub I generally
don't throttle all the way back opposite the threshold like most
taildragger instructors used to and still teach. I leave a bit in there
to flatten out the entire base and final leg. This really helps to give
you time to make your turns, look for traffic, and setup for
landing. The wild thing about the Piet is that while you can fly a
pattern much, much, tighter into the runway, you'll see the Cherokees and
Cessnas doing long, drawn out approaches that even the jets at LaGuardia
would laugh at. I always thought that if you lost your engine in the
pattern you were still supposed to be able to make the runway. I don't
know about you guys but the only ones who fly like that are the guys with
Piets, Cubs, Champs, etc. I realize that sometimes we need spacing and
that the pattern gets stretched out, but at least in the Cleveland area
people fly like they are in 737's. I know Bonanzas and hotter factory
builts or Lancairs need some time to setup, but fitting into these patterns
with a Piet you are always running cruise power till on short
final. Sorry for the editorial........I digress.
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Rickards <krickards(at)cvci.com> |
After seeing DJ's web site a couple of months ago, I decided to try my hand
at creating my own site for documenting my progress. I found the various
sites and pictures very useful, everyone has their own way of doing things
and I picked up some good ideas. Although not as complex as DJ's (i'm
limited to space on my server), I tried to pack in as much as possible. I
apologies for the name of the site, Pietbuilder, but believe it or not,
Aircamper, Gn1, etc were all taken, So I had to use Pietbuilder, even
though it's a GN1. I will add more pages as I progress with the project.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~pietbuilder/index.htm
Ken
Ken Rickards
Cole Vision Canada
80 Centurion Drive,
Markham, Ontario.
L3R 8C1
tel 905-940-8675 ext 237
krickards(at)CVCI.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | travis battreal <travisbattreal(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | GN-1 vs. aircamper |
What are the differences between the GN-1 and the
aircamper? I noticed the photos of a GN-1 posted a
couple of days ago showed ply webbing under the
fuselage, similar to the mini-max design. I assume the
GN-1 is not a steel tube variant.
--- Ken Rickards wrote:
>
>
> After seeing DJ's web site a couple of months ago, I
> decided to try my hand
> at creating my own site for documenting my progress.
> I found the various
> sites and pictures very useful, everyone has their
> own way of doing things
> and I picked up some good ideas. Although not as
> complex as DJ's (i'm
> limited to space on my server), I tried to pack in
> as much as possible. I
> apologies for the name of the site, Pietbuilder, but
> believe it or not,
> Aircamper, Gn1, etc were all taken, So I had to use
> Pietbuilder, even
> though it's a GN1. I will add more pages as I
> progress with the project.
>
> http://home.cogeco.ca/~pietbuilder/index.htm
>
>
> Ken
>
>
> Ken Rickards
> Cole Vision Canada
> 80 Centurion Drive,
> Markham, Ontario.
> L3R 8C1
>
> tel 905-940-8675 ext 237
> krickards(at)CVCI.com
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
>
Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/pietenpol-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick and Marge Gillespie" <dickmarg(at)peganet.com> |
| Subject: | Cooling Eyebrows |
What is the thinnest 4130 that brackets can be made of that fasten to the cylinder
attach studs, and are they placed between the nuts and the palnuts?
DickG. in Ft. Myers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isablcorky(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cooling Eyebrows |
I would think about .025 to .032 would be plenty strong as you have a flange
for added strength.
Mind is bolted between the case and the hold down bolt. I have no pal nuts.
Corky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Rickards <krickards(at)cvci.com> |
| Subject: | GN-1 vs. aircamper |
Both the GN1 and the Pietenpol have steel fuse versions. Although both
Aircraft look similar there are some differences. The wing construction in
the GN1 is different, some may say overbuilt, the wing on the Pietenpol is
moveable, fuse construction is also different with the GN1, plans calling
for the plywood sides to extend beyond the rear cockpit to the tail post.
DJ Vegh has eliminated this on his GN1 to save weight and I will be doing
the same thing. The GN1 fuse is longer than the original Pietenpol, but the
Pietenpol also comes in a long fuse version. The GN1 also allows for the use
of Cub parts, fuel tank, main gear etc. No matter which way you go you will
end up will a classic homebuilt.
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: travis battreal [mailto:travisbattreal(at)yahoo.com]
Subject: Pietenpol-List: GN-1 vs. aircamper
What are the differences between the GN-1 and the
aircamper? I noticed the photos of a GN-1 posted a
couple of days ago showed ply webbing under the
fuselage, similar to the mini-max design. I assume the
GN-1 is not a steel tube variant.
--- Ken Rickards wrote:
>
>
> After seeing DJ's web site a couple of months ago, I
> decided to try my hand
> at creating my own site for documenting my progress.
> I found the various
> sites and pictures very useful, everyone has their
> own way of doing things
> and I picked up some good ideas. Although not as
> complex as DJ's (i'm
> limited to space on my server), I tried to pack in
> as much as possible. I
> apologies for the name of the site, Pietbuilder, but
> believe it or not,
> Aircamper, Gn1, etc were all taken, So I had to use
> Pietbuilder, even
> though it's a GN1. I will add more pages as I
> progress with the project.
>
> http://home.cogeco.ca/~pietbuilder/index.htm
>
>
> Ken
>
>
> Ken Rickards
> Cole Vision Canada
> 80 Centurion Drive,
> Markham, Ontario.
> L3R 8C1
>
> tel 905-940-8675 ext 237
> krickards(at)CVCI.com
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
>
Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/pietenpol-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com> |
lookin good! I especially like the method of clamping the rib gussets with plexiglass...
I must admit.. after building a rib and nailing about 150 nails with tweezers and
a small hammer, my fingers and eyes hurt.
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Rickards
To: 'pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com'
Sent: Monday, February 24, 2003 10:57 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Web Site
After seeing DJ's web site a couple of months ago, I decided to try my hand
at creating my own site for documenting my progress. I found the various
sites and pictures very useful, everyone has their own way of doing things
and I picked up some good ideas. Although not as complex as DJ's (i'm
limited to space on my server), I tried to pack in as much as possible. I
apologies for the name of the site, Pietbuilder, but believe it or not,
Aircamper, Gn1, etc were all taken, So I had to use Pietbuilder, even
though it's a GN1. I will add more pages as I progress with the project.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~pietbuilder/index.htm
Ken
Ken Rickards
Cole Vision Canada
80 Centurion Drive,
Markham, Ontario.
L3R 8C1
tel 905-940-8675 ext 237
krickards(at)CVCI.com
=
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GN-1 vs. aircamper |
a question that has been asked hundreds of times....
basically the GN-1 is a clone of the Piet with the exception of being a tad over
built... plywood sides all the way to tail post, larger wing spars, etc.
GN-1 was also designed to accept a host of off the shelf parts... things like J-3
landing gear, J-3 tank, J-3 engine mount (if using A-65 or C-85), Aeronca control
stick assembly, T-Craft aux wing tanks, J-3 drag-anti drag wing wires,
and lots more I am not remembering now.
I am building a GN-1/Piet hybrid.... taking the best of both planes.
John Grega dies last November, but I suppose his family will continue to sell the
plane... if not someone ought to contact them and buy the rights cause we need
the keep the spirit of the GN-1 alive.
DJ Vegh
www.imagedv.com/aircamper
----- Original Message -----
From: travis battreal
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 24, 2003 11:19 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: GN-1 vs. aircamper
What are the differences between the GN-1 and the
aircamper? I noticed the photos of a GN-1 posted a
couple of days ago showed ply webbing under the
fuselage, similar to the mini-max design. I assume the
GN-1 is not a steel tube variant.
--- Ken Rickards wrote:
>
>
> After seeing DJ's web site a couple of months ago, I
> decided to try my hand
> at creating my own site for documenting my progress.
> I found the various
> sites and pictures very useful, everyone has their
> own way of doing things
> and I picked up some good ideas. Although not as
> complex as DJ's (i'm
> limited to space on my server), I tried to pack in
> as much as possible. I
> apologies for the name of the site, Pietbuilder, but
> believe it or not,
> Aircamper, Gn1, etc were all taken, So I had to use
> Pietbuilder, even
> though it's a GN1. I will add more pages as I
> progress with the project.
>
> http://home.cogeco.ca/~pietbuilder/index.htm
>
>
> Ken
>
>
> Ken Rickards
> Cole Vision Canada
> 80 Centurion Drive,
> Markham, Ontario.
> L3R 8C1
>
> tel 905-940-8675 ext 237
> krickards(at)CVCI.com
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
>
Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/pietenpol-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
=
This email has been scanned for known viruses and made safe for viewing by Half
Price Hosting, a leading email and web hosting provider. For more information
on an anti-virus email solution, visit <http://www.halfpricehosting.com/av.asp>.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Rickards <krickards(at)cvci.com> |
Wish I could say that it was my idea, but my brother built his Hatz ribs
this way and it looked the easiest method to use.
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: DJ Vegh [mailto:aircamper(at)imagedv.com]
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Web Site
lookin good! I especially like the method of clamping the rib gussets with
plexiglass...
I must admit.. after building a rib and nailing about 150 nails with
tweezers and a small hammer, my fingers and eyes hurt.
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Rickards
To: 'pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com'
Sent: Monday, February 24, 2003 10:57 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Web Site
After seeing DJ's web site a couple of months ago, I decided to try my
hand
at creating my own site for documenting my progress. I found the various
sites and pictures very useful, everyone has their own way of doing things
and I picked up some good ideas. Although not as complex as DJ's (i'm
limited to space on my server), I tried to pack in as much as possible. I
apologies for the name of the site, Pietbuilder, but believe it or not,
Aircamper, Gn1, etc were all taken, So I had to use Pietbuilder, even
though it's a GN1. I will add more pages as I progress with the project.
http://home.cogeco.ca/~pietbuilder/index.htm
Ken
Ken Rickards
Cole Vision Canada
80 Centurion Drive,
Markham, Ontario.
L3R 8C1
tel 905-940-8675 ext 237
krickards(at)CVCI.com
=
This email has been scanned for known viruses and made safe for viewing by
Half Price Hosting, a leading email and web hosting provider. For more
information on an anti-virus email solution, visit
<http://www.halfpricehosting.com/av.asp>.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: just try not to touch that throttle----a test |
The wild thing about the Piet is that
> while you can fly a
> pattern much, much, tighter into the runway, you'll
> see the Cherokees and
> Cessnas doing long, drawn out approaches that even
> the jets at LaGuardia
> would laugh at. I always thought that if you lost
> your engine in the
> pattern you were still supposed to be able to make
> the runway.
MIke
my instructor gets after me when I don't fly out a big
pattern, because he doesn't want to cut the power so
much, especially in the winter time, when descending.
but when I'm flying myself, I like the old school of
thought of shortening up the pattern. I liked landing
with the old tcraft, just pull the throttle and push
the yolk to panel (nearly)
Del
=====
Del-New Richmond, Wi
"farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com"
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hubbard, Eugene" <ehubbard(at)titan.com> |
| Subject: | Cooling Eyebrows |
Dick,
I made an angle of .032 4130 about 3/4" on a side that spanned the fore and
aft cylinder. I put this between the nuts and palnuts with the flange
facing the centerline of the engine (easy way to put it on). I then mounted
five rivnuts to screw the eyebrow itself onto. This helps support the
eyebrow itself. It hasn't flown yet, but it looks official.
Gene
-----Original Message-----
From: Dick and Marge Gillespie [mailto:dickmarg(at)peganet.com]
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Cooling Eyebrows
What is the thinnest 4130 that brackets can be made of that fasten to the
cylinder attach studs, and are they placed between the nuts and the
palnuts?
DickG. in Ft. Myers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cooling Eyebrows |
Does everyone roll welding rod wire in the exposed edges of the eyebrows?
Guess everyone does, but I thought I'd bring it up again, since the thread
started again. also used it in all the openings of the engine cowl.
Makes for a really nice job.
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick and Marge Gillespie" <dickmarg(at)peganet.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Cooling Eyebrows
>
> What is the thinnest 4130 that brackets can be made of that fasten to the
cylinder attach studs, and are they placed between the nuts and the
palnuts?
>
> DickG. in Ft. Myers
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Conkling" <hpvs(at)southwind.net> |
| Subject: | Re: just try not to touch that throttle----short patterns |
You're reminding me of one of the drills my instructor had us do in the Cub
(mid 60's flight training) -- Arlo had me pull the throttle across from the
landing point & put the Cub into a L.H. forward slip -- the turn to base
was accomplished by easing out the right rudder (the bank was already
there) -- on base you applied the R.H. rudder -- same thing again for the
turn to final. The pattern was real close -- about 1/2 to 1/3 normal -- a
lot of fun slipping the Cub with the windows & door open.
I also liked the pattern we used at the glider port -- at the "point" we
started a shallow constant banked approach -- no base leg as per say --
just did a big descending 180 degree turn -- easy to adjust your turn rate
as you came down.
You guys are "clearing your engine" on base, aren't you??;-)
Mike C. (are we getting too many "mikes" in this group??)
Pretty Prairie, KS
----- Original Message -----
From: "del magsam" <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: just try not to touch that throttle----a test
>
> The wild thing about the Piet is that
> > while you can fly a
> > pattern much, much, tighter into the runway, you'll
> > see the Cherokees and
> > Cessnas doing long, drawn out approaches that even
> > the jets at LaGuardia
> > would laugh at. I always thought that if you lost
> > your engine in the
> > pattern you were still supposed to be able to make
> > the runway.
>
> MIke
> my instructor gets after me when I don't fly out a big
> pattern, because he doesn't want to cut the power so
> much, especially in the winter time, when descending.
> but when I'm flying myself, I like the old school of
> thought of shortening up the pattern. I liked landing
> with the old tcraft, just pull the throttle and push
> the yolk to panel (nearly)
> Del
>
> =====
> Del-New Richmond, Wi
> "farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com"
>
> http://taxes.yahoo.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark" <markmc(at)bluebonnet.net> |
Does anyone on the list have a flying corvair piet??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Cooling Eyebrows |
I did it on the cooling eyebrows, since they were made of 3003-H14 (soft)
aluminum. My cowling is .025" 2024-T3 so I didn't roll the wires in the
edges of the cutouts on the cowling. By the way, the December 1999 issue of
Sport Aviation (the one with the article about Mike Cuy's plane) has a very
good description of how to do this and a lot of other metal working
techniques in the article on building a cowling for a Curtiss Robin.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of walter
evans
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cooling Eyebrows
Does everyone roll welding rod wire in the exposed edges of the eyebrows?
Guess everyone does, but I thought I'd bring it up again, since the thread
started again. also used it in all the openings of the engine cowl.
Makes for a really nice job.
walt evans
NX140DL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ANNCARLEK(at)aol.com |
I just cut all the little struts and braces for the wing ribs, enough for 30
ribs. These were all out of very nice straight-grained Douglas Fir. Sure are
a lot of pieces! The weight of them all, less capstrips, is 4.5 lbs. This
means to me that one should not spend a lot of effort trying to reduce this
weight by selecting a less desirable wood, such as red cedar from Home Depot,
and instead, work on those areas with more promise. Carl@Compton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Waytogopiet(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: another windshield Q |
In a message dated 2/24/2003 2:09:18 PM Central Standard Time,
rambog(at)erols.com writes:
> I have also
> HEARD, so it may not be true, that heating Lexan to form it cooks some type
> of solvents out of it, making it brittle. Anyone else heard this?
>
Gene.. I had some experience with plastics molding of bottles and we recycled
waste material. The reheating process cooks out the plastcizer that is needed
to avoid brittleness. Don Hicks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Schermerhorn <pest1419(at)yahoo.com> |
I ordered GN-1 plans 12.02.02. Check has been cashed, but no plans yet.
I did not know of John's passing at the time.
Still not a big deal!
Cheers,
Paul
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick and Marge Gillespie" <dickmarg(at)peganet.com> |
As seen in March 03 KITPLANES:
R.J. Grega
PO Box 391086
Solon, OH 44139
Plans $50.00.
DickG.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Schermerhorn" <pest1419(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: GN-1 Plans
>
>
> I ordered GN-1 plans 12.02.02. Check has been cashed, but no plans yet.
>
> I did not know of John's passing at the time.
>
> Still not a big deal!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Paul
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edwin Johnson <elj(at)shreve.net> |
| Subject: | just try not to touch that throttle----a test |
Mike,
Yes, the sink rate can become, especially at low airspeeds, quite
dramatic. But for a _real_ charge, come in higher than you ever thought
possible, cut the power, and put it in a nice slip. Wow! Talk about decent
rate, yet will round out of the slip quite nicely for the landing. Now
here is the case where you could definitely get the plane into a shorter
field than you could get it out, I imagine. Anyway lots of fun to try.
...Edwin
>
> landings. I choose an altitude and spot to bring the throttle back on
> downwind then try not to touch the throttle till after touchdown. Not as
> easy as I thought it would be in the Piet. These things are draggy. I
> mean draggy. You need to hold the nose down further than any other plane
> you have flown before to keep your speed sufficient with the engine at
> idle. Compound that with a wind down the runway (which is the way most
> of us try to land) and this becomes a game of "would I have clipped the
> wires or made the runway ?". I'm amazed at how many times I would have
> not made the runway if that burst of power were not available.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~ Edwin Johnson ....... elj(at)shreve.net ~
~ http://www.shreve.net/~elj ~
~ ~
~ "Once you have flown, you will walk the ~
~ earth with your eyes turned skyward, ~
~ for there you have been, there you long ~
~ to return." -- da Vinci ~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Botsford" <botsford7(at)hot.rr.com> |
I did not get any response concerning the cross bracing wires on the side of
the cockpit. When I reviewed my e-mail I noticed that I used the wrong
terms on it. What I need to know is does the GN-1 use the wire cross braces
located between the right hand center section struts on the front and rear
of the front cockpit? I have reviewed my plans and do not see them
indicated on them. I have seen them on "B.H." Piet's but, have not seen
other GN-1's to see if they use them. I hope that somebody can shed some
light on this.
Thanks,
Jon Botsford
Looking at the snow/sleet, not green grass! I now empathize with the up
north folks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick and Marge Gillespie" <dickmarg(at)peganet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trying again! |
I for one omitted these cross wires as the front cabane struts, right and
left are braced by diagonals to the top longerons next to the firewall.
DickG. (GN-1)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Botsford" <botsford7(at)hot.rr.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Trying again!
>
> I did not get any response concerning the cross bracing wires on the side
of
> the cockpit. When I reviewed my e-mail I noticed that I used the wrong
> terms on it. What I need to know is does the GN-1 use the wire cross
braces
> located between the right hand center section struts on the front and rear
> of the front cockpit? I have reviewed my plans and do not see them
> indicated on them. I have seen them on "B.H." Piet's but, have not seen
> other GN-1's to see if they use them. I hope that somebody can shed some
> light on this.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jon Botsford
> Looking at the snow/sleet, not green grass! I now empathize with the up
> north folks.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Schermerhorn <pest1419(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Correction!! Correction!!! |
I did find my GN-1 plans today! They came not long before Christmas and must have
missed them then. Sincere apologies to the Gregas and the list.
Again SORRY,
Paul
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trying again! |
Jon,
From what I understand about Piets, is that the earlier piets had the cross
bracing on the right to stop the wing from fwd/ back movement during flight.
And the newer plans added the angled "struts" from the fwd top of the wings
at the cabane struts, down to the top engine mounts. These served the same
purpose, and did not restrict the entry/egress of the front cockpit. On
mine , built over the last four years , and finally licenced last fall, AND
with only 3 1/2 hours on it, I opted for the diagonal bracing. Also it
takes awile to decide which fuse to build, and why. I did the long fuse
with an extented engine mount , by about 1 3/4" , to counter balance my fat
a**. ( with an A-65)
I can send you pics direct or you can go here.
http://photos.yahoo.com/joepiet
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Botsford" <botsford7(at)hot.rr.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Trying again!
>
> I did not get any response concerning the cross bracing wires on the side
of
> the cockpit. When I reviewed my e-mail I noticed that I used the wrong
> terms on it. What I need to know is does the GN-1 use the wire cross
braces
> located between the right hand center section struts on the front and rear
> of the front cockpit? I have reviewed my plans and do not see them
> indicated on them. I have seen them on "B.H." Piet's but, have not seen
> other GN-1's to see if they use them. I hope that somebody can shed some
> light on this.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jon Botsford
> Looking at the snow/sleet, not green grass! I now empathize with the up
> north folks.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Correction!! Correction!!! |
Paul,
OK, OK, apology accepted, now we want to smell sawdust and glue.
walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Schermerhorn" <pest1419(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Correction!! Correction!!!
>
>
> I did find my GN-1 plans today! They came not long before Christmas and
must have missed them then. Sincere apologies to the Gregas and the list.
>
> Again SORRY,
>
> Paul
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratril" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cooling Eyebrows |
Walt
I used copper wire rolled into mine.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cooling Eyebrows
>
> Does everyone roll welding rod wire in the exposed edges of the eyebrows?
> Guess everyone does, but I thought I'd bring it up again, since the thread
> started again. also used it in all the openings of the engine cowl.
> Makes for a really nice job.
> walt evans
> NX140DL
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dick and Marge Gillespie" <dickmarg(at)peganet.com>
> To:
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Cooling Eyebrows
>
>
>
> >
> > What is the thinnest 4130 that brackets can be made of that fasten to
the
> cylinder attach studs, and are they placed between the nuts and the
> palnuts?
> >
> > DickG. in Ft. Myers
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Botsford" <botsford7(at)hot.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Trying again! |
Walt,
Much thanks for the information. I looked at your pictures. VERY
IMPRESSIVE. I know how frustrated you are to get it in the air again. I am
doing some engine work (Franklin 65) and modifying the front seat for my
honey. also installing new seatbelts and shoulder harness for the front
seat. I have followed your inputs on the Piet list-serv and always found
them to be interesting. again thanks,
Jon Botsford
Hewitt, Texas (Near Wacky Waco)
----- Original Message -----
From: "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Trying again!
Jon,
From what I understand about Piets, is that the earlier piets had the cross
bracing on the right to stop the wing from fwd/ back movement during flight.
And the newer plans added the angled "struts" from the fwd top of the wings
at the cabane struts, down to the top engine mounts. These served the same
purpose, and did not restrict the entry/egress of the front cockpit. On
mine , built over the last four years , and finally licenced last fall, AND
with only 3 1/2 hours on it, I opted for the diagonal bracing. Also it
takes awile to decide which fuse to build, and why. I did the long fuse
with an extented engine mount , by about 1 3/4" , to counter balance my fat
a**. ( with an A-65)
I can send you pics direct or you can go here.
http://photos.yahoo.com/joepiet
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Botsford" <botsford7(at)hot.rr.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Trying again!
>
> I did not get any response concerning the cross bracing wires on the side
of
> the cockpit. When I reviewed my e-mail I noticed that I used the wrong
> terms on it. What I need to know is does the GN-1 use the wire cross
braces
> located between the right hand center section struts on the front and rear
> of the front cockpit? I have reviewed my plans and do not see them
> indicated on them. I have seen them on "B.H." Piet's but, have not seen
> other GN-1's to see if they use them. I hope that somebody can shed some
> light on this.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jon Botsford
> Looking at the snow/sleet, not green grass! I now empathize with the up
> north folks.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barry Davis" <bed(at)mindspring.com> |
5 weeks from today we will be in sunny Florida, soaking in avaition and using sun
screen and bug spray for everything else. Are there any get-togethers planned?
Is Bert Conoly running the wood tent again? About 22 chapter 976'ers are camping
and cooking together again. 6 of us are Piet builders.
can't wait
Barry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | how to put Piet video onto MPG? |
Mike Cuy and all,
How did you/anybody put their Piet videos onto a mpg/mpeg format for the computer?
walt
NX140DL
(north N.J.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Markle <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how to put Piet video onto MPG? |
Most new digital cameras/camcorders come with cables and software to create mpegs
directly to your computer. Be aware that the processor speed will have a LOT
to do with how well this works. I use a system that has something close to
a 2Ghz processor and that would be a minimum. (If your system's processor speed
is slow, it won't be able to keep up with the video being stored to mpeg and
will not be a nice smooth video....).
I made some from last year's visit to Brodhead and they came out REALLY nice!
Pausing an mpeg works a LOT better than pausing the darn vcr! In fact, watched
em' this morning while waiting on a download of some huge files from a remote
server.....
Hey, send me your vhs or vhsc or digital 8 movies, PIET RELATED ONLY!....no family
vacations :-) and I'll copy it to mpeg on a cd for you....and of course keep
a copy for myself!
Jim in SNOWY, ICEY Plano TX.....
-------Original Message-------
From: walter evans <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: how to put Piet video onto MPG?
>
Mike Cuy and all,
How did you/anybody put their Piet videos onto a mpg/mpeg format for the
computer?
walt
NX140DL
(north N.J.)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rod wooller" <rodwooller(at)hotmail.com> |
Pieters,
My wife and I plan on being at the Brodhead fly -in this year and I need
some help from those who have attended before regarding hotel/motel
accommodation either at Brodhead or any nearby town.
The only map I have shows Monroe, Janesville and Beloit that look within
reasonable driving distance.
I can't find anything on the web, so any local knowledge is appreciated.
Also, are 25-27 July the confirmed dates?
Thanks
Rod Wooller
Chidlow
AUSTRALIA
MSN Instant Messenger now available on Australian mobile phones.Go to
http://ninemsn.com.au/mobilecentral/hotmail_messenger.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: how to put Piet video onto MPG? |
In a message dated 2/26/03 6:01:15 PM Eastern Standard Time,
wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> How did you/anybody put their Piet videos onto a mpg/mpeg format for the
> computer?
> walt
Try looking around here:
http://www.dazzle.com/main.html
Or get a Sony Digital Camera to take the MPG clips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brodhead 2003 |
Hi Rod
they have camping spots right there if you are
interested in tent sleeping.
Del
--- rod wooller wrote:
>
>
>
> Pieters,
>
> My wife and I plan on being at the Brodhead fly -in
> this year and I need
> some help from those who have attended before
> regarding hotel/motel
> accommodation either at Brodhead or any nearby town.
>
> The only map I have shows Monroe, Janesville and
> Beloit that look within
> reasonable driving distance.
>
> I can't find anything on the web, so any local
> knowledge is appreciated.
>
> Also, are 25-27 July the confirmed dates?
>
> Thanks
> Rod Wooller
> Chidlow
> AUSTRALIA
>
>
> MSN Instant Messenger now available on Australian
> mobile phones.Go to
>
http://ninemsn.com.au/mobilecentral/hotmail_messenger.asp
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
>
Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/pietenpol-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Del-New Richmond, Wi
"farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com"
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979(at)naples.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun n Fun plans |
I can't speak for Bert, but I don't think he is in charge this year. He
changed jobs and time is at a premium. Right Bert?
But, there were 5 or 6 of us Pieters camping together last year. I suspect
all will be back again this year. If so, that makes 11 or 12 with your
group. We, and any others, need to make sure we get together. I work out
on the flight line so I would think the best point of contact would be the
wood tent. We should firm it up here before we go.
Ted
By the way, I think they are looking for someone to be in charge of the wood
tent. Any volunteers?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Barry Davis" <bed(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Sun n Fun plans
>
> 5 weeks from today we will be in sunny Florida, soaking in avaition and
using sun screen and bug spray for everything else. Are there any
get-togethers planned? Is Bert Conoly running the wood tent again? About 22
chapter 976'ers are camping and cooking together again. 6 of us are Piet
builders.
> can't wait
> Barry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bert Conoly" <bconoly(at)earthlink.net> |
Pietheads:
I recently bought a used A-65 engine off of Barnstormers. It has been off the
airplane for about 6 months because the owner upgraded to a bigger engine - at
least that's what the log book (and the seller) says. The only damage I have
found is a really bent up pushrod tube and pushrod for the intake valve on Cylinder
No 3 (thats front, right). I pulled the valve cover and removed the rocker
arm and pushrod. It's definitly bent from a side load not a compression
load. The engine turns over fine - no noises - has compression. The pushrod tube
looks like it's been bent with something. I wondered if maybe someone had
tried to pry the intake manifold off of no 3 and wedged a crow bar or something
between the pushrod tube and the manifold and bent the tube.
1) Have ya'lll seen this before?
2) Do you have to pull the jug to re-insert a tube and press it in or why can't
you do this with the cylinder on?
3) The push rod is definitly bent, too - can it be bent back by hand? and used.
I'm not too cheap. Just curious.
I've put some pics on my site.
Thanks all, Bert (whose about 72 hours from taking two completed wings to the hangar
to introduce them to their fuselage)
http://bconoly.tripod.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bert Conoly" <bconoly(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun n Fun plans |
Ted and Barry.
That's Right! SNF is right around the corner. I don't have time this year
to volunteer. After all, I've volunteered for 9 years now. They need some
new blood - and I need a break.. I'm gonna just have fun this year. I do
encourage everybody to volunteer for something - just a few hours each day -
it's not hard - it's actuallly fun. And you get a cool patch.
I'd love for us to get a head count and have a cookout, meet and greet,
party, or whatever. Mike Hattaway and I'll definitly be there and I'lll be
glad to try to put together a cookout if anybody wants to do it. Any body
who wants to, just e-mail me and I'll start making plans ( there I go again
volunteering for something)
Bert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979(at)naples.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Sun n Fun plans
>
> I can't speak for Bert, but I don't think he is in charge this year. He
> changed jobs and time is at a premium. Right Bert?
>
> But, there were 5 or 6 of us Pieters camping together last year. I
suspect
> all will be back again this year. If so, that makes 11 or 12 with your
> group. We, and any others, need to make sure we get together. I work out
> on the flight line so I would think the best point of contact would be the
> wood tent. We should firm it up here before we go.
>
> Ted
>
> By the way, I think they are looking for someone to be in charge of the
wood
> tent. Any volunteers?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Barry Davis" <bed(at)mindspring.com>
> To:
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Sun n Fun plans
>
>
> >
> > 5 weeks from today we will be in sunny Florida, soaking in avaition and
> using sun screen and bug spray for everything else. Are there any
> get-togethers planned? Is Bert Conoly running the wood tent again? About
22
> chapter 976'ers are camping and cooking together again. 6 of us are Piet
> builders.
> > can't wait
> > Barry
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barry Davis" <bed(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sun n Fun plans |
Bert
All six of the Dixie Division will be there. We arrive Tuesday and depart
Sunday.
Thanks
Barry
Tom
Chris
Frank
Mike
Paul
( Extended Range is having a medical problem and can't make it this
year...bummer - but I know he wants to be there)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bert Conoly" <bconoly(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Sun n Fun plans
>
> Ted and Barry.
>
> That's Right! SNF is right around the corner. I don't have time this
year
> to volunteer. After all, I've volunteered for 9 years now. They need
some
> new blood - and I need a break.. I'm gonna just have fun this year. I do
> encourage everybody to volunteer for something - just a few hours each
day -
> it's not hard - it's actuallly fun. And you get a cool patch.
>
> I'd love for us to get a head count and have a cookout, meet and greet,
> party, or whatever. Mike Hattaway and I'll definitly be there and I'lll
be
> glad to try to put together a cookout if anybody wants to do it. Any body
> who wants to, just e-mail me and I'll start making plans ( there I go
again
> volunteering for something)
>
> Bert
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979(at)naples.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Sun n Fun plans
>
>
>
> >
> > I can't speak for Bert, but I don't think he is in charge this year. He
> > changed jobs and time is at a premium. Right Bert?
> >
> > But, there were 5 or 6 of us Pieters camping together last year. I
> suspect
> > all will be back again this year. If so, that makes 11 or 12 with your
> > group. We, and any others, need to make sure we get together. I work
out
> > on the flight line so I would think the best point of contact would be
the
> > wood tent. We should firm it up here before we go.
> >
> > Ted
> >
> > By the way, I think they are looking for someone to be in charge of the
> wood
> > tent. Any volunteers?
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Barry Davis" <bed(at)mindspring.com>
> > To:
> > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Sun n Fun plans
> >
> >
> > >
> > > 5 weeks from today we will be in sunny Florida, soaking in avaition
and
> > using sun screen and bug spray for everything else. Are there any
> > get-togethers planned? Is Bert Conoly running the wood tent again? About
> 22
> > chapter 976'ers are camping and cooking together again. 6 of us are Piet
> > builders.
> > > can't wait
> > > Barry
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gadd, Skip" <Skip.Gadd(at)ssa.gov> |
Rod,
Yes the dates are correct.
Try this for Monroe
http://wicip.uwplatt.edu/green/ci/monroe/guest/index.htm
Skip
-----Original Message-----
>From: rod wooller [mailto:rodwooller(at)hotmail.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, February 26, 2003 9:02 PM
>I can't find anything on the web,
>Also, are 25-27 July the confirmed dates?
>Rod Wooller
>Chidlow
>AUSTRALIA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brodhead 2003 |
| From: | "D.Dale Johnson" <dd5john(at)juno.com> |
Rod
I have stayed at the super 8 in Monroe.
For reservations call 800 800 8000 or www.super8.com
Dale Mpls
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Wayne McIntosh" <mcintosh3017(at)insightbb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: how to put Piet video onto MPG? |
Walter,
Get a Dazzle Digital Video Creator 80 bySCM Microsystems. The web site
is www.Dazzle.com . I have one it cost $69.99 and there was a $30.00
rebate. It plugs into your computer with a USB plug and you can plug a VCR
or camcorder, mine is analog. It eats up hard drive space 15 minutes takes
up 3 gigs. It is not easy for me to use but I can get it to work ok. There
are probably other ways too but this was the cheapest thing I could find
that would put video from my camcorder on my computer. If you want me to
send you a sample video of my ultralight let me know.
Wayne McIntosh Lafayette IN
----- Original Message -----
From: "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: how to put Piet video onto MPG?
>
> Mike Cuy and all,
> How did you/anybody put their Piet videos onto a mpg/mpeg format for the
computer?
> walt
> NX140DL
> (north N.J.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Going to warm sunshine via Air Force |
Just to let you guys know I am leaving for the Sun and Sand, the Air national
Guard is paying for the round trip, and I will be gone for up to a year. To
bad that they don't have Pietenpols where we are
going. Thanks for let me be a part of the list.
DNA
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Markle" <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Powder coating system ON SALE!!!! |
The powder coating system Dale's referring to below is (I just got the
announcement today....) on sale.....
<http://www.eastwoodco.com/email/default.asp?T1=10198&SRCCODE=8EM203C8>
Jim in Plano
Date: Jun 22, 2001
Subject: Re: Question
From: "D.Dale Johnson" <dd5john(at)juno.com>
I have a Eastwood powder coating sys. I'm using it on our pete & a lot of
other painting project. If you have any question I'm sure I can shed
some lite on the subject. There is a web site you might want to look at
www.hotcoat.com
Dale Johnson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BARNSTMR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Going to warm sunshine via Air Force |
Dan,
May God bless you and guide your way.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Going to warm sunshine via Air Force |
Dan,
Good luck, and God bless. You, and all of our military personnel have our
support, and are in our prayers. Now...go show that skum sucking terrorist
the wrath of the American Military !!
Chuck Gantzer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sam Marinucci" <srmjem(at)ezol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Going to warm sunshine via Air Force |
Dan, it's guys (gals too) like you that make our country so great. Stay
safe and God bless you and your comrades for what you're doing for us.
Sam
-----Original Message-----
From: ZigoDan(at)aol.com <ZigoDan(at)aol.com>
Date: Thursday, February 27, 2003 7:17 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Going to warm sunshine via Air Force
>
>Just to let you guys know I am leaving for the Sun and Sand, the Air
national
>Guard is paying for the round trip, and I will be gone for up to a year.
To
>bad that they don't have Pietenpols where we are
>going. Thanks for let me be a part of the list.
>
>DNA
>
>Dan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lshutks(at)webtv.net (Leon Stefan) |
Dan: Ditto what Chuck said. Ware your Piet hat or Piet t-shirt when
ever you get the chance , Take along a few of your construction
photos.You will surely run across a few Pieters over there. God bless
you. Leon S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gadd, Skip" <Skip.Gadd(at)ssa.gov> |
| Subject: | Going to warm sunshine via Air Force |
Dan,
Thanks in advance for what you are doing for the rest of us sitting back
here, we are all proud of you and wish you the best of luck.
If you have access to a computer over there, let us know how you are doing.
If you can't get into the list, email me off line and I will get it to the
list.
Hope you all make it back healthy and real soon.
Skip
>Just to let you guys know I am leaving for the Sun and Sand, the Air
national
>Guard is paying for the round trip, and I will be gone for up to a year.
To
>bad that they don't have Pietenpols where we are
>going. Thanks for let me be a part of the list.
>DNA
>Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barry Davis" <bed(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Going to warm sunshine via Air Force |
Dan
We appreciate what you are doing for us. My brother and I are the 4th
generation of our family to serve in the Military, and I understand the
commitment it takes on your part. May God be with you.
Barry
ps I just finished a rib and wrote your name on it.
----- Original Message -----
From: <ZigoDan(at)aol.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Going to warm sunshine via Air Force
>
> Just to let you guys know I am leaving for the Sun and Sand, the Air
national
> Guard is paying for the round trip, and I will be gone for up to a year.
To
> bad that they don't have Pietenpols where we are
> going. Thanks for let me be a part of the list.
>
> DNA
>
> Dan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Bell" <rbell(at)hpavet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Going to warm sunshine via Air Force |
Godspeed and stay safe, Dan. I hope I won't see you there. ;-)
Ronald C. Bell, D.V.M.
MAJ, VC-USAR
Ron Bell, CP-ASEL-IA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Going to warm sunshine via Air Force |
What a great group of guys on this list.
Go gettum, Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Going to warm sunshine via Air Force |
Take care Dan. I'm praying for each and every one of you men and women over there.
Make us proud.
DJ Vegh
----- Original Message -----
From: ZigoDan(at)aol.com
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 27, 2003 5:14 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Going to warm sunshine via Air Force
Just to let you guys know I am leaving for the Sun and Sand, the Air national
Guard is paying for the round trip, and I will be gone for up to a year. To
bad that they don't have Pietenpols where we are
going. Thanks for let me be a part of the list.
DNA
Dan
=
This email has been scanned for known viruses and made safe for viewing by Half
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Powder coating system ON SALE!!!! |
Jim,
thanks for the tip!
chris
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim
Markle
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Powder coating system ON SALE!!!!
The powder coating system Dale's referring to below is (I just got the
announcement today....) on sale.....
<http://www.eastwoodco.com/email/default.asp?T1=10198&SRCCODE=8EM203C8>
Jim in Plano
Date: Jun 22, 2001
Subject: Re: Question
From: "D.Dale Johnson" <dd5john(at)juno.com>
I have a Eastwood powder coating sys. I'm using it on our pete & a lot of
other painting project. If you have any question I'm sure I can shed
some lite on the subject. There is a web site you might want to look at
www.hotcoat.com
Dale Johnson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net> |
Bert,
Pushrods need to be perfectly straight. We roll them ona sheet of glass to
make sure. The cylinder will have to be pulled for the pushrod tube
changeout. You would think that you could just loosen the cylinder and pull
it part way but with an engine that is old, the oring seal at the cylinder
base will be hard an unable to reseal so cylinder should be pulled. It is a
good idea anyway since you can then look at all the lifter faces and cam
lobes as well as look at the cylinder bore.
The engine probably took damage sitting around a shop.
Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bert
Conoly
Subject: Pietenpol-List: A-65 question
Pietheads:
I recently bought a used A-65 engine off of Barnstormers. It has been off
the airplane for about 6 months because the owner upgraded to a bigger
engine - at least that's what the log book (and the seller) says. The only
damage I have found is a really bent up pushrod tube and pushrod for the
intake valve on Cylinder No 3 (thats front, right). I pulled the valve
cover and removed the rocker arm and pushrod. It's definitly bent from a
side load not a compression load. The engine turns over fine - no noises -
has compression. The pushrod tube looks like it's been bent with something.
I wondered if maybe someone had tried to pry the intake manifold off of no 3
and wedged a crow bar or something between the pushrod tube and the manifold
and bent the tube.
1) Have ya'lll seen this before?
2) Do you have to pull the jug to re-insert a tube and press it in or why
can't you do this with the cylinder on?
3) The push rod is definitly bent, too - can it be bent back by hand? and
used. I'm not too cheap. Just curious.
I've put some pics on my site.
Thanks all, Bert (whose about 72 hours from taking two completed wings to
the hangar to introduce them to their fuselage)
http://bconoly.tripod.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bert Conoly" <bconoly(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A-65 question |
Thanks, Chris. That's pretty much what I had decided to do anyway.
Bert
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: A-65 question
>
> Bert,
>
> Pushrods need to be perfectly straight. We roll them ona sheet of glass
to
> make sure. The cylinder will have to be pulled for the pushrod tube
> changeout. You would think that you could just loosen the cylinder and
pull
> it part way but with an engine that is old, the oring seal at the cylinder
> base will be hard an unable to reseal so cylinder should be pulled. It is
a
> good idea anyway since you can then look at all the lifter faces and cam
> lobes as well as look at the cylinder bore.
>
> The engine probably took damage sitting around a shop.
>
> Chris
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bert
> Conoly
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: A-65 question
>
>
>
>
> Pietheads:
>
> I recently bought a used A-65 engine off of Barnstormers. It has been off
> the airplane for about 6 months because the owner upgraded to a bigger
> engine - at least that's what the log book (and the seller) says. The
only
> damage I have found is a really bent up pushrod tube and pushrod for the
> intake valve on Cylinder No 3 (thats front, right). I pulled the valve
> cover and removed the rocker arm and pushrod. It's definitly bent from a
> side load not a compression load. The engine turns over fine - no
noises -
> has compression. The pushrod tube looks like it's been bent with
something.
> I wondered if maybe someone had tried to pry the intake manifold off of no
3
> and wedged a crow bar or something between the pushrod tube and the
manifold
> and bent the tube.
>
> 1) Have ya'lll seen this before?
> 2) Do you have to pull the jug to re-insert a tube and press it in or
why
> can't you do this with the cylinder on?
> 3) The push rod is definitly bent, too - can it be bent back by hand?
and
> used. I'm not too cheap. Just curious.
>
> I've put some pics on my site.
>
> Thanks all, Bert (whose about 72 hours from taking two completed wings to
> the hangar to introduce them to their fuselage)
> http://bconoly.tripod.com/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Hey Piet Pals,
What size are the slanted struts that go from the leading edge of the upper
fwd cabane struts, to the top motor mount fittings ? I have some 5/8" X
.066 wall, and I think this will suffice, but I just wanted another oppinion.
Chuck Gantzer
Wichita KS
NX770CG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net> |
HI Chuck,
I used streamlined tubing, 1.349" x 0.571", which is equivalent to 1" round
tubing in tension and 5/8" tubing in compression. I haven't run an
analysis, but I would be very confident substituting the 5/8" round tubing
(particularly with a heavy wall like .066") for the streamlined tubing.
I'll try to run some numbers tonight. How long are your cabane struts? Are
they the standard "plans" length, or did you make them longer (as I did).
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Rcaprd(at)aol.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Slanted Struts
Hey Piet Pals,
What size are the slanted struts that go from the leading edge of the upper
fwd cabane struts, to the top motor mount fittings ? I have some 5/8" X
.066 wall, and I think this will suffice, but I just wanted another
oppinion.
Chuck Gantzer
Wichita KS
NX770CG
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slanted Struts |
In a message dated 3/1/03 7:05:30 AM Central Standard Time,
jackphillips(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< How long are your cabane struts? Are
they the standard "plans" length, or did you make them longer (as I did). >>
I haven't built them yet, but with the wing in the present location, they
will be 28 9/16" to 28 11/16" center to center. I also have some 3/4 X
.058, and some 7/8 X .035 in reserve for the Tailwind I'm building. I have
an abundance of the 5/8 X .066, and was hoping it would be adequate.
Chuck G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kip & Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Going to warm sunshine via Air Force |
>If you get there and your unit needs something, contact this group, and let
>us know.
>Best, Bert
>> --- ZigoDan(at)aol.com wrote:
>> >
>> > Just to let you guys know I am leaving for the Sun and Sand, the Air
>> > national
>> > Guard is paying for the round trip, and I will be gone for up to a
>> > year. To
>> > bad that they don't have Pietenpols where we are
>> > going. Thanks for let me be a part of the list.
>> >
>> > DNA
>> >
>> > Dan
Dan,
Good luck & Godspeed: I hope you'll be home safe with your loved ones
sooner rather than later.
During the last mess in Iraq my best friend was on the Eisenhower & other
friends were on the Iwo Jima; I'll be thinking about you.
As Bert says, you guys need anything, get in touch with the list, we'll do
what we can.
Regards,
Kip Gardner
North Canton, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kip & Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | OH Corvair College? |
List,
I just got back from talking to Forrest Barber, at Barber Airport in
Alliance, OH.
We would like to try to get William Wynne to come up and do a Corvair
College during one of the vintage aircraft Fly-Ins that are going to happen
at Barber this summer.
I'm going to see if I can enlist the help of my EAA Chapter (#82), which
just aquired a large mobile home that we are renovating as a meeting and
workshop space at Barber. The Chapter usually holds a pancake breakfast at
the Fly-Ins there.
What I'm trying to do now is find out how many of 'youse guys' might be
interested in attending so that we can have some idea whether or not this
would be worth William's time. I have not yet contacted William, I want
some idea of interest first.
Alliance is ~2hrs. (driving time) west of Pittsburgh, ~5hrs. east of
Michigan and Indiana, ~4 hrs. north of Charleston W.VA, ~5hrs. from
Buffalo, NY and about 6 hrs. from Washington, DC. This makes it an ideal
location for all you guys living in the Lower Midwest and Mid-Atlantic.
Plus, you'd be attending a real nice 'down home' fly-in.
Potential dates would be:
June 6,7,8 - Funk Fly-In
July 4,5,6 - Taylorcraft Fly-In
August 8,9,10 - Aeronca Fly-In
The Funk Fly-In is a new event a Barber, the other two are established
events and well attended. A lot of OH Piet guys tend to show up at the
Taylorcraft event, and Mike Cuy usually flys in if the weather is good
(just a little arm twisting there, Mike).
Anyway, please let me know if any of you would be interested in coming to a
Corvair College. Also, if one of you on the CorvairCraft list could forward
this to them, I'd appreciate it. Post replies to me or the list.
Thanks very much!
Kip Gardner
North Canton, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: OH Corvair College? |
William is usually up at oshkosh and surrounding areas
at the end of july for airventure. and we are in the
planning stages of a cv college for that time. is that
close enough for the ohio people to attend that one?
Del
--- Kip & Beth Gardner
wrote:
> Gardner
>
> List,
>
> I just got back from talking to Forrest Barber, at
> Barber Airport in
> Alliance, OH.
>
> We would like to try to get William Wynne to come up
> and do a Corvair
> College during one of the vintage aircraft Fly-Ins
> that are going to happen
> at Barber this summer.
>
> I'm going to see if I can enlist the help of my EAA
> Chapter (#82), which
> just aquired a large mobile home that we are
> renovating as a meeting and
> workshop space at Barber. The Chapter usually holds
> a pancake breakfast at
> the Fly-Ins there.
>
> What I'm trying to do now is find out how many of
> 'youse guys' might be
> interested in attending so that we can have some
> idea whether or not this
> would be worth William's time. I have not yet
> contacted William, I want
> some idea of interest first.
>
> Alliance is ~2hrs. (driving time) west of
> Pittsburgh, ~5hrs. east of
> Michigan and Indiana, ~4 hrs. north of Charleston
> W.VA, ~5hrs. from
> Buffalo, NY and about 6 hrs. from Washington, DC.
> This makes it an ideal
> location for all you guys living in the Lower
> Midwest and Mid-Atlantic.
> Plus, you'd be attending a real nice 'down home'
> fly-in.
>
> Potential dates would be:
>
> June 6,7,8 - Funk Fly-In
>
> July 4,5,6 - Taylorcraft Fly-In
>
> August 8,9,10 - Aeronca Fly-In
>
> The Funk Fly-In is a new event a Barber, the other
> two are established
> events and well attended. A lot of OH Piet guys tend
> to show up at the
> Taylorcraft event, and Mike Cuy usually flys in if
> the weather is good
> (just a little arm twisting there, Mike).
>
> Anyway, please let me know if any of you would be
> interested in coming to a
> Corvair College. Also, if one of you on the
> CorvairCraft list could forward
> this to them, I'd appreciate it. Post replies to me
> or the list.
>
> Thanks very much!
>
> Kip Gardner
>
> North Canton, OH
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
>
Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/pietenpol-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Del-New Richmond, Wi
"farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com"
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dilatush" <dilatush(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Slanted Struts |
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rcaprd(at)aol.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Slanted Struts
+++++++++++++++++++
Chuck,
I might suggest that you weld an adjustable clevis such as used on a wing
strut to these pieces at one end so that they are adjustable if you wish to
change the wing position for center of gravity purposes.
Hope this helps,
John
++++++++++++++++++++
>
> Hey Piet Pals,
> What size are the slanted struts that go from the leading edge of the
upper
> fwd cabane struts, to the top motor mount fittings ? I have some 5/8"
X
> .066 wall, and I think this will suffice, but I just wanted another
oppinion.
>
> Chuck Gantzer
> Wichita KS
> NX770CG
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kip & Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: OH Corvair College? |
>
>William is usually up at oshkosh and surrounding areas
>at the end of july for airventure. and we are in the
>planning stages of a cv college for that time. is that
>close enough for the ohio people to attend that one?
>Del
Del,
Not really. It is about a 10-12 hr. trip from this area to that part of WI
and anyone coming from further south or east (WV-MD-NY-PA) would have to
travel even longer.
If William is willing, maybe we could work schedules out such that he does
a Midwest/Mid-Atlantic 'tour' (would he need 'roadies'?). I believe
Airventure ends right before the Aeronca Fly-in at Barber, which is Aug.
8,9,10.
Maybe Wm. could do the WI College in conjunction with the Brodhead Piet
Fly-In & then come do the OH one after AirVenture?
Let me know what you think.
Kip Gardner
North Canton, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
"Fishnet"
| Subject: | is 80 octane gone from the east coast? |
Is 80 oct. around any more at all? Requesting places around NJ, PA , NY.
thanks.
Any sites where the fuel available, is listed?
walt
NX140DL
(north N.J.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kip & Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: is 80 octane gone from the east coast? |
"Fishnet"
>
>
>Is 80 oct. around any more at all? Requesting places around NJ, PA , NY.
>thanks.
>Any sites where the fuel available, is listed?
>
>walt
>NX140DL
>(north N.J.)
Walt,
I think it's pretty much disappearing. Barber Airport phased it out late
last Spring - Forrest said it was going to cost too much to keep it around.
All he sells now is 100LL. I think what's going on is that distributors
don't want to deal with it any more, so they charge airports a ton to get
it.
Sort of like trying to find loose nuts & bolts at the hardware store - all
they want to deal in is blister packs.
Sorry,
Kip Gardner
(Still looking for feedback on an OH Corvair College for this summer!)
North Canton, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979(at)naples.net> |
I was thinking of writing a letter in support of the sport pilot catagory.
One angle would be to talk about violations for flying without a medical.
Does anyone know how many violations there are each year? I would suspect
there has been a major spike with the baby boomers coming along.
Also, does anyone know what the FAA is doing to pilots caught flying without
a medical? Or what the maximum penalty is?
I am fine. Just looking for an angle.
Thanks, Ted
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979(at)naples.net> |
| Subject: | Re: is 80 octane gone from the east coast? |
Walt,
You can look in the AOPA airport directory. Especially easy when done on
line with a search. Also, www.airnav.com lets you put in the type of fuel
you want. My experience is that they are far and few between. Probably
better luck with auto fuel.
Ted
----- Original Message -----
From: "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: is 80 octane gone from the east coast?
>
> Is 80 oct. around any more at all? Requesting places around NJ, PA , NY.
> thanks.
> Any sites where the fuel available, is listed?
>
> walt
> NX140DL
> (north N.J.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barry Davis" <bed(at)mindspring.com> |
Does anyone have any info. on float fittings for a Piet? This is for the steel
tube fuselage.
Thanks
Barry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
Another sad day in Piet-List history... nothing in yesterday's digest for me
to read! So, I'll toss out an idea I'm working on, just to have something
show up on the list.
A fellow named Amato used to offer customized Pietenpol data plates but he's
out of the picture now (at least he was as of the last post on this subject
in 1999). I've picked up the gauntlet and am working with our friend Dennis
Demeter of AvGrafix on making some up, which I will be offering to Pieters
if the price is right. He is pricing them to me in aluminum, brass, and
stainless. He tells me that to be an "official" data plate (to be installed
near the tail per FARs) it has to be "fireproof", thus the stainless steel
version. However, my thought is that most Pieters don't care about that one
as much as one that goes inside the cabin, in which case aluminum would be
fine (the "permanent" data plate being affixed back where nobody will ever
see it ;o) And for my own benefit, I wanted to see about a brass one since
many Piets go for that more traditional look and it would look nice inside
the airplane.
At any rate, when I find out if this is going to work out I'll post an
update here. The hope would be that the plate would be ornate enough that
even folks whose planes are already airworthy and bear a permanent plate,
might want to install a "decorative" plate inside, maybe for the passenger
to 'ooh' and 'ahh' over. I'll also scan and post a photo of what the
proposed plate will look like, if this thing flies.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net> |
Oscar,
The data plate does not to be fire proof. The one near the tail needs to
say the aircraft type and the serial number and it can be done in magic
marker. The data plate that you would most likely put in the cockpit area
can be brass, aluminum, or stainless, preferably the etched brass variety
with "relief" to give the old time feeling.
Chris Bobka
Tech counselor
IA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Oscar
Zuniga
Subject: Pietenpol-List: data plate
Another sad day in Piet-List history... nothing in yesterday's digest for me
to read! So, I'll toss out an idea I'm working on, just to have something
show up on the list.
A fellow named Amato used to offer customized Pietenpol data plates but he's
out of the picture now (at least he was as of the last post on this subject
in 1999). I've picked up the gauntlet and am working with our friend Dennis
Demeter of AvGrafix on making some up, which I will be offering to Pieters
if the price is right. He is pricing them to me in aluminum, brass, and
stainless. He tells me that to be an "official" data plate (to be installed
near the tail per FARs) it has to be "fireproof", thus the stainless steel
version. However, my thought is that most Pieters don't care about that one
as much as one that goes inside the cabin, in which case aluminum would be
fine (the "permanent" data plate being affixed back where nobody will ever
see it ;o) And for my own benefit, I wanted to see about a brass one since
many Piets go for that more traditional look and it would look nice inside
the airplane.
At any rate, when I find out if this is going to work out I'll post an
update here. The hope would be that the plate would be ornate enough that
even folks whose planes are already airworthy and bear a permanent plate,
might want to install a "decorative" plate inside, maybe for the passenger
to 'ooh' and 'ahh' over. I'll also scan and post a photo of what the
proposed plate will look like, if this thing flies.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Water soluable oil |
A few years ago I was able to find water soluable oil at the auto parts
store. I would use this to supplement my automobile's antifreeze. The
glycol in the antifreeze does not wear out, just the lubricant for the water
pump.
Some pieters use this lube in their A model piets that run without
antifreeze.
Does anyone have this stuff available where they live? I can't find at at
about 6 auto parts stores here in MN that I went to this morning. I used to
be able to buy it in the Dallas, Texas area at Pep Boys.
Chris Bobka
________________________________________________________________________________
Guys,
I have a machine for stamping dataplates. Doug Bryant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Swanson" <aswanson(at)mn.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Water soluable oil |
Chris,
I was just down at the Checkers store here in Minnetonka MN. Prestone has
an Anti-Rust that also has a water pump lubricant in it for renewing
antifreeze. Justice Brothers makes a water pump lubricant also with
anti-rust that can be bought at NAPA auto stores. The link to the Justice
site is http://www.justicebrothers.com/radiatoradditives.htm. I would think
that the anti rust component would be especially important in a cast iron
block that was using pure water.
Good luck,
Alan Swanson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Christian
Bobka
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Water soluable oil
A few years ago I was able to find water soluable oil at the auto parts
store. I would use this to supplement my automobile's antifreeze. The
glycol in the antifreeze does not wear out, just the lubricant for the water
pump.
Some pieters use this lube in their A model piets that run without
antifreeze.
Does anyone have this stuff available where they live? I can't find at at
about 6 auto parts stores here in MN that I went to this morning. I used to
be able to buy it in the Dallas, Texas area at Pep Boys.
Chris Bobka
_
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gower <ggower_99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Water soluable oil |
Chris,
If the oil you are talking about gets "milky" with water, here you can
find that oil in the industrial Dpt. of the oil retailers.
Is used in cutting machines (lathes, metal band saw, etc), not in cars.
I always have a 15 gal container for my cutting machinery, Hope I was
near your place, I will give enough to you for free.
Saludos
Gary Gower
--- Christian Bobka wrote:
>
>
> A few years ago I was able to find water soluable oil at the auto
> parts
> store. I would use this to supplement my automobile's antifreeze.
> The
> glycol in the antifreeze does not wear out, just the lubricant for
> the water
> pump.
>
> Some pieters use this lube in their A model piets that run without
> antifreeze.
>
> Does anyone have this stuff available where they live? I can't find
> at at
> about 6 auto parts stores here in MN that I went to this morning. I
> used to
> be able to buy it in the Dallas, Texas area at Pep Boys.
>
> Chris Bobka
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 3/4/03 1:12:50 PM Central Standard Time,
taildrags(at)hotmail.com writes:
<< I'll also scan and post a photo of what the
proposed plate will look like, if this thing flies. >>
Oscar,
Count me in for one, or maybe two. Might even be a good reason to fly down
thru Texas to pick it up !!
Chuck Gantzer
NX770CG
Wichita KS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Water soluable oil |
Chris,
Check with machine shops to find where they get it. Years ago when I taught
high school shop, we got it from machine tool suppliers. It was used for
cooling and lubrication of cutting tools and I expect it still is.
When refacing engine valves, water soluble oil is used to cool the valve
head and stone. I don't know if much of this reconditioning work is done
anymore in auto repair shops because of high labor costs. They just replace
the valves---or the entire engine! Perhaps this is the reason why you
"struck out" with the automotive suppliers.
Cheers,
Graham Hansen---in cold but sunny Alberta, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "George Allen" <GeorgeA(at)paonline.com> |
| Subject: | Re: is 80 octane gone from the east coast? |
We still have 80 octane at 58N. Reigle field (Palmyra Muni.) Just east of
Harrisburg. Not cheap.
George Allen
Harrisburg, PA
GeorgeA(at)PAonline.com
(Peitenpol builder)
----- Original Message -----
Subject: Pietenpol-List: is 80 octane gone from the east coast?
> Is 80 oct. around any more at all? Requesting places around NJ, PA , NY.
> thanks.
> Any sites where the fuel available, is listed?
>
> walt
> NX140DL
> (north N.J.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Water soluable oil |
Thanks guys for the help. I found it at Mills Fleet Farm. Solder Seal brand
antirust and lubricant. I did not even think about the machine tool bit
coolant. I have some downstairs. I just didn't make the connection.
Chris Bobka
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Alan
Swanson
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Water soluable oil
Chris,
I was just down at the Checkers store here in Minnetonka MN. Prestone has
an Anti-Rust that also has a water pump lubricant in it for renewing
antifreeze. Justice Brothers makes a water pump lubricant also with
anti-rust that can be bought at NAPA auto stores. The link to the Justice
site is http://www.justicebrothers.com/radiatoradditives.htm. I would think
that the anti rust component would be especially important in a cast iron
block that was using pure water.
Good luck,
Alan Swanson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Christian
Bobka
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Water soluable oil
A few years ago I was able to find water soluable oil at the auto parts
store. I would use this to supplement my automobile's antifreeze. The
glycol in the antifreeze does not wear out, just the lubricant for the water
pump.
Some pieters use this lube in their A model piets that run without
antifreeze.
Does anyone have this stuff available where they live? I can't find at at
about 6 auto parts stores here in MN that I went to this morning. I used to
be able to buy it in the Dallas, Texas area at Pep Boys.
Chris Bobka
_
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lshutks(at)webtv.net (Leon Stefan) |
| Subject: | Piet Float fittings. |
Barry: I've only seen one Piet on floats. it was in an old ( now defunct
) Int. Piet. Assn. newsletter, so they must be quite rare. I think it
used an O-235 Lyc. If no one can help you, Wag Aero use to sell a float
fitting kit for the Cub. ( probably still do ) It surely could be
adapted to a tube Piet frame. Leon S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | What ever happened to Richard DeCosta ????????? |
Remember how hot this guy was about building his Piet and the great web
site he had up a few years ago ? Anybody have a clue ?
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: What ever happened to Richard DeCosta ????????? |
Mike,
He's still got a web site up. Seems like his big thing is music now. Guess
some don't realize the commitment to build, or realize "low and slow" is not
what they want. Hate it when I see a Piet for sale.
walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael D Cuy" <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: What ever happened to Richard DeCosta ?????????
>
> Remember how hot this guy was about building his Piet and the great web
> site he had up a few years ago ? Anybody have a clue ?
>
> Mike C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: You've tasted........ |
In a message dated 3/5/03 6:05:29 PM Central Standard Time,
wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
<< Maybe some day I'll fly into a field and all the builders on this list will
be there, and I can meet them. >>
...and maybe it will be Brodhead...this year !!
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clif <cdawson5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Piet Float fittings. |
And make it adjustable the same way the cabane
struts are. There are step position ranges similiar
to the usable range of wheel positions relative to
the center of gravity. You'll probably have to
fiddle with it to find the " sweet spot". Clif
----- Original Message -----
From: "Leon Stefan" <lshutks(at)webtv.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Piet Float fittings.
>
> Barry: I've only seen one Piet on floats. it was in an old ( now defunct
> ) Int. Piet. Assn. newsletter, so they must be quite rare. I think it
> used an O-235 Lyc. If no one can help you, Wag Aero use to sell a float
> fitting kit for the Cub. ( probably still do ) It surely could be
> adapted to a tube Piet frame. Leon S.
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isablcorky(at)aol.com |
Pieters,
My Lyc 235 deal did not come through as promised soooooooooooooo I am
searching for a 65 Continental for REPIET. Runout, overhauled or removed all
OK just needs to be a complete engine.
Will appreciate your help and I will give a bonus of your flying 41CC
anytime, fuel paid.
Corky in La
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Huizenga" <Kirk.Huizenga(at)moundsviewschools.org> |
| Subject: | UV test of Latex Paint |
I finally finished the results and article concerning the test of latex paint's
ability to block UV light.
It can be found at
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/filesList2.cfm?AlbumID=5
There is a .pdf file there and and excel file with the data.
Here is a list of the conclusions from the test
Conclusions
v Latex paint can sufficiently blocks UV radiation and therefore protect Dacron
fabric.
v Color does not seem to matter as far as level of absorption ? differences are
extremely minor (in the range of thousands of a percent)
v This is a matter open for discussion, but the practice of using black paint as
the base/sealing coat on fabric to block UV light may not be the best practice.
White, in theory, would be a better paint for that. White paint has a high
amount of Titanium Dioxide (TiO2), which is highly reflective. Black paint, on
the other hand, gets its ?color? from Carbon Black primarily. Black paints have
much less reflectivity and more absorption of light. Now, as I mentioned above,
color does not seem to matter much in terms of protecting the fabric, but
paint that is more reflective should last longer than paint that is more absorbing
of light. It is not an issue of black or white being better at protecting
the fabric, but rather the longevity and protection of the paint itself from
breakdown.
v Brand of paint shouldn?t make much difference in terms of UV protection, but
could make a difference in durability and longevity of your paint job. There is
information on the web about paint quality and there are some links below.
I hope this is helpful to other builders - I had a great time doing it
And... a special thanks to Gil Leiter for donating some fabric and Robert Haines
for donating Poly-fiber 'chemicals' for the test.
Kirk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Loar" <skycarl(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: UV test of Latex Paint |
Excellent report Kirk,,, I wish now I hadn't used the grey base on the fuse,
made for a lot more work and paint.
Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirk Huizenga" <Kirk.Huizenga(at)moundsviewschools.org>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: UV test of Latex Paint
>
> I finally finished the results and article concerning the test of latex
paint's ability to block UV light.
>
> It can be found at
>
> http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/filesList2.cfm?AlbumID=5
>
> There is a .pdf file there and and excel file with the data.
>
> Here is a list of the conclusions from the test
>
> Conclusions
> v Latex paint can sufficiently blocks UV radiation and therefore protect
Dacron fabric.
> v Color does not seem to matter as far as level of absorption ?
differences are extremely minor (in the range of thousands of a percent)
> v This is a matter open for discussion, but the practice of using black
paint as the base/sealing coat on fabric to block UV light may not be the
best practice. White, in theory, would be a better paint for that. White
paint has a high amount of Titanium Dioxide (TiO2), which is highly
reflective. Black paint, on the other hand, gets its ?color? from Carbon
Black primarily. Black paints have much less reflectivity and more
absorption of light. Now, as I mentioned above, color does not seem to
matter much in terms of protecting the fabric, but paint that is more
reflective should last longer than paint that is more absorbing of light. It
is not an issue of black or white being better at protecting the fabric, but
rather the longevity and protection of the paint itself from breakdown.
> v Brand of paint shouldn?t make much difference in terms of UV protection,
but could make a difference in durability and longevity of your paint job.
There is information on the web about paint quality and there are some links
below.
>
>
> I hope this is helpful to other builders - I had a great time doing it
>
> And... a special thanks to Gil Leiter for donating some fabric and Robert
Haines for donating Poly-fiber 'chemicals' for the test.
>
> Kirk
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kirk Huizenga" <Kirk.Huizenga(at)moundsviewschools.org> |
| Subject: | Dillsburg and Torque Stand |
I was in a .pdf mood today I quess so I also included Dillsburg's price list and
an article on buuilding a torque stand at
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/filesList2.cfm?AlbumID=5
Ignore or enjoy
Kirk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
"Fishnet"
| Subject: | a question on intercoms |
I posted a question, and got great answers, on hooking up a handheld radio to headsets,
and the ignition noise problem that will be there.
But I was thinking,,,if I hook up two headsets thru an intercom to a radio, and
the noise is too much of a problem on an unshielded ignition in an A-65,,,will
the noise still be present in an intercom set-up? For the type of flying
I'm planning, I could live without a radio, but don't want to spend the $$$ on
an intercom, if that won't work either. Have one David Clark headset, and prob
go for another with their intercom, if it makes a difference.
thanks
walt
NX140DL
(north N.J.)
was thinking spring till I had to shovel snow today (starting to taper off though)
1755EST
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kip & Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: UV test of Latex Paint |
>
>
>I finally finished the results and article concerning the test of latex
>paint's ability to block UV light.
It is not an issue of black or white being better at protecting the fabric,
but rather the longevity and protection of the paint itself from breakdown.
>v Brand of paint shouldn?t make much difference in terms of UV protection,
>but could make a difference in durability and longevity of your paint job.
>There is information on the web about paint quality and there are some
>links below.
Kirk,
Thanks for doing this work; it's good to have real facts instead of endless
'I think....' debates. Fun sometimes, but not necessarily helpful.
Now, is there any chance you saved those samples? If so, can you stick 'em
out in the weather (say, in a nice, sunny spot) for a year & then repeat
your tests?
I think those results would be interesting, too.
Regards,
Kip Gardner
North Canton, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kip & Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
>
>Pieters,
>My Lyc 235 deal did not come through as promised soooooooooooooo I am
>searching for a 65 Continental for REPIET. Runout, overhauled or removed all
>OK just needs to be a complete engine.
>Will appreciate your help and I will give a bonus of your flying 41CC
>anytime, fuel paid.
>Corky in La
Corky,
Forrest Barber (Barber Airport, Alliance, OH) has been in the process of
overhauling 3 A-65's for the past year & I think at least one of them might
be available. Do you want me to check?
Kip Gardner
North Canton, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isablcorky(at)aol.com |
Thanks Kip,Please check
Corky
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | a question on intercoms |
| From: | "" <genet(at)iwon.com> |
Walt,
You should not have ignition noise problems with a intercom system alone as long
as it is properly installed. with all of the inter connecting leads shielded.
Ignition noise is RF radio frequency interferance that the com receiver picks
up largly because some bright spark years ago decided that Aircraft communications
should be AM even though it became VHF in WWII
the modulation remained AM and is very prone to broad band rf interferance like
ignition noise. Almost all other VHF radio communications systems are FM.
Gene Tomblin
St. Louis
Can a Web portal forever change your life?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979(at)naples.net> |
| Subject: | Re: a question on intercoms |
Walt,
We have a Sigtronics portable intercom that was modified so that it works
only when a switch is pushed instead of by noise (as is usually the case)
because the background noise is always loud enough to trigger the intercom
in an open cockpit. We don't have any problem with ignition noise. I will
have to look and see if our mags are shielded. I don't think so.
I have read about intercoms on ultra lights and other open cockpit planes
that claim to work by voice rather than having to push a button. Does
anyone have any experience with these? I too am interested in an intercom
for the one I am building.
Thanks, Ted
Naples, FL (where we have turned the AC on - ugh)
----- Original Message -----
From: "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: a question on intercoms
>
> I posted a question, and got great answers, on hooking up a handheld radio
to headsets, and the ignition noise problem that will be there.
> But I was thinking,,,if I hook up two headsets thru an intercom to a
radio, and the noise is too much of a problem on an unshielded ignition in
an A-65,,,will the noise still be present in an intercom set-up? For the
type of flying I'm planning, I could live without a radio, but don't want to
spend the $$$ on an intercom, if that won't work either. Have one David
Clark headset, and prob go for another with their intercom, if it makes a
difference.
> thanks
> walt
> NX140DL
> (north N.J.)
> was thinking spring till I had to shovel snow today (starting to taper off
though) 1755EST
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | intercom & radios |
Walt-- I have some inexpensive Pilot Avionics headsets (look like Clarks)
and two tan cloth flying helmets that I got from Flight Suites
Limited (they are on the web I think...search w/ google to find
them.) and a 9V two-person voice activated Sigtronics intercom box. Ted
is right about the noise in an open cockpit being enough to keep the voice
activated ones 'open' all the time so a push to talk version might be the
way to go. (just more wires in the cockpit though and that can get
messy.) I put foam mic protectors to cut down on wind noise and that has
helped. I also turn down the volume unless I hear my passenger start to
talk or I want to say something to them. It works out ok. Most rides are
less than 1/2 hour in my case so it's not bad.
Ref the handheld radio and non-shielded ignition
systems. Surprisingly after buying a little Icom handheld and an
internal fuselage antenna I don't have much of a problem with ignition
noise. I mean you can tell that it is there but people on the ground say
they can hear me well and after going to the Corsair Reunion in
Indianapolis last September I had no problem hearing the tower and other
planes on the frequency. One thing that may help is just switching to one
mag while doing your radio work....but I've tried that at the suggestion of
another pilot and it didn't seem to make a dramatic improvement in
lessening the engine buzz.
95% of the flying I do at non-towered airports I don't use a radio
anyway. There's quite a bit of people talking over other people on nice
days and pilots calling out 20 times before they execute a 10 mile
final....totally annoying and counter-productive. If anything in going to
a busy fly-in I'll monitor the freq. to maybe hear someone that my eyes may
have missed, but othewise..........
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Edwin Johnson <elj(at)shreve.net> |
| Subject: | a question on intercoms |
Walt and others,
Many years ago I bought and built several intercoms from RST Engineering
(url is www.rst-engr.com and glad to see they are still in business). I
used these for years in my plane (one still mounted and used in the Maule)
and wired one up for special use in the company's Turbo Commander 840.
Although the price has gone up (naturally) this might be a lower cost
alternative for you. And I doubt the noise will come through, as others
have already stated, since the ignition noise is primarily from the radio
receiver.
The kits are very well made and if you are handy with a soldering iron
they are easy to put together. The squelch is voice activated, the
threshold which may be set by a dedicated pot, have one volume control, a
pilot switch to cut out passenger's comments if you are trying to talk
directly with tower, approach, etc., and even have inputs for tape and aux
input devices, such as music, etc. The only drawback is that there is only
one volume control, but if you have volume controls on your headsets, this
isn't a problem at all.
I have just rewired the other one I have to put in Corky's plane and we
will try it out. The units run off a 9v battery mounted on a clip on the
outside of the box and may or may not be plugged into external radio phone
and mic plugs. So we will give you a report after we try it. Wind noise
can be a problem, so you might need the foam wind shields around the mics.
I simply put a piece of foam (not very pretty) around the small mic on my
Telex 5x5Pro and it works reasonably well for use with the handheld radio.
...Edwin
>
>
> I posted a question, and got great answers, on hooking up a handheld
> radio to headsets, and the ignition noise problem that will be there.
> But I was thinking,,,if I hook up two headsets thru an intercom to a
> radio, and the noise is too much of a problem on an unshielded
> ignition in an A-65,,,will the noise still be present in an intercom
> set-up? For the type of flying I'm planning, I could live without a
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~ Edwin Johnson ....... elj(at)shreve.net ~
~ http://www.shreve.net/~elj ~
~ ~
~ "Once you have flown, you will walk the ~
~ earth with your eyes turned skyward, ~
~ for there you have been, there you long ~
~ to return." -- da Vinci ~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doyle K. Combs" <dcombs(at)ltex.net> |
| Subject: | Re: engine weight |
Fellow peiters...I have a serious question that I need some help on. I
purchased a Franklin 100 for my peit. I just weighed it, with mags, starter
and everything ready to go. It weighs 260 lbs. I have studied Mr.
Peitenpol's Ford version enough to know the engine weighed 244 and the
radiator weighed 12 (I assume w/o water). Have any of you weighed your
engine before mounting it? I would appreciate any response on this question.
thanks
Doyle Combs
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Water soluable oil
>
> Thanks guys for the help. I found it at Mills Fleet Farm. Solder Seal
brand
> antirust and lubricant. I did not even think about the machine tool bit
> coolant. I have some downstairs. I just didn't make the connection.
>
> Chris Bobka
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Alan
> Swanson
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Water soluable oil
>
>
> Chris,
>
> I was just down at the Checkers store here in Minnetonka MN. Prestone has
> an Anti-Rust that also has a water pump lubricant in it for renewing
> antifreeze. Justice Brothers makes a water pump lubricant also with
> anti-rust that can be bought at NAPA auto stores. The link to the Justice
> site is http://www.justicebrothers.com/radiatoradditives.htm. I would
think
> that the anti rust component would be especially important in a cast iron
> block that was using pure water.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Alan Swanson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Christian
> Bobka
> To: pietenpol
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Water soluable oil
>
>
>
> A few years ago I was able to find water soluable oil at the auto parts
> store. I would use this to supplement my automobile's antifreeze. The
> glycol in the antifreeze does not wear out, just the lubricant for the
water
> pump.
>
> Some pieters use this lube in their A model piets that run without
> antifreeze.
>
> Does anyone have this stuff available where they live? I can't find at at
> about 6 auto parts stores here in MN that I went to this morning. I used
to
> be able to buy it in the Dallas, Texas area at Pep Boys.
>
> Chris Bobka
>
>
> _
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isablcorky(at)aol.com |
Pieters,
Thanks for your assistance in locating an A-65 engine. I'm all set now to go
with the rest of the Piet.
Corky in La
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kip & Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
>
>Pieters,
>Thanks for your assistance in locating an A-65 engine. I'm all set now to go
>with the rest of the Piet.
>Corky in La
Corky,
Did you find one, or should I still check my possibility?
Kip
North Canton, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isablcorky(at)aol.com |
Thanks Kip,
No, don't check on the one there. I found one locally which had been stored
for 30 years. I don't know what I'll find when I tear it down but I got it at
such a bargain that I'll have money left to do a good job of overhauling.
Corky and Isabelle in La (nawth Loosianna) livin the good life.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Dallas" <BEC176(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: intercom & radios |
Walt,
Jim Weir at RST Electronics has a simple intercom system you can make up for
pennies from scratch.
Jim Dallas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael D Cuy" <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: intercom & radios
>
> Walt-- I have some inexpensive Pilot Avionics headsets (look like Clarks)
> and two tan cloth flying helmets that I got from Flight Suites
> Limited (they are on the web I think...search w/ google to find
> them.) and a 9V two-person voice activated Sigtronics intercom box. Ted
> is right about the noise in an open cockpit being enough to keep the voice
> activated ones 'open' all the time so a push to talk version might be the
> way to go. (just more wires in the cockpit though and that can get
> messy.) I put foam mic protectors to cut down on wind noise and that has
> helped. I also turn down the volume unless I hear my passenger start to
> talk or I want to say something to them. It works out ok. Most rides
are
> less than 1/2 hour in my case so it's not bad.
> Ref the handheld radio and non-shielded ignition
> systems. Surprisingly after buying a little Icom handheld and an
> internal fuselage antenna I don't have much of a problem with ignition
> noise. I mean you can tell that it is there but people on the ground say
> they can hear me well and after going to the Corsair Reunion in
> Indianapolis last September I had no problem hearing the tower and other
> planes on the frequency. One thing that may help is just switching to
one
> mag while doing your radio work....but I've tried that at the suggestion
of
> another pilot and it didn't seem to make a dramatic improvement in
> lessening the engine buzz.
> 95% of the flying I do at non-towered airports I don't use a radio
> anyway. There's quite a bit of people talking over other people on nice
> days and pilots calling out 20 times before they execute a 10 mile
> final....totally annoying and counter-productive. If anything in going to
> a busy fly-in I'll monitor the freq. to maybe hear someone that my eyes
may
> have missed, but othewise..........
> Mike C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979(at)naples.net> |
| Subject: | Re: intercom & radios |
Mike,
What kind of internal antenna did you put in? Did it have a ground plane?
Where did you put it? ect. ect.
Ted
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael D Cuy" <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: intercom & radios
Surprisingly after buying a little Icom handheld and an internal fuselage
antenna I don't have much of a problem with ignition noise. >
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: intercom & radios |
Jim,
How do I get ahold of that?
walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Dallas" <BEC176(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: intercom & radios
>
> Walt,
> Jim Weir at RST Electronics has a simple intercom system you can make up
for
> pennies from scratch.
> Jim Dallas
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael D Cuy" <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov>
> To:
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: intercom & radios
>
>
>
> >
> > Walt-- I have some inexpensive Pilot Avionics headsets (look like
Clarks)
> > and two tan cloth flying helmets that I got from Flight Suites
> > Limited (they are on the web I think...search w/ google to find
> > them.) and a 9V two-person voice activated Sigtronics intercom box.
Ted
> > is right about the noise in an open cockpit being enough to keep the
voice
> > activated ones 'open' all the time so a push to talk version might be
the
> > way to go. (just more wires in the cockpit though and that can get
> > messy.) I put foam mic protectors to cut down on wind noise and that
has
> > helped. I also turn down the volume unless I hear my passenger start
to
> > talk or I want to say something to them. It works out ok. Most rides
> are
> > less than 1/2 hour in my case so it's not bad.
> > Ref the handheld radio and non-shielded ignition
> > systems. Surprisingly after buying a little Icom handheld and an
> > internal fuselage antenna I don't have much of a problem with ignition
> > noise. I mean you can tell that it is there but people on the ground
say
> > they can hear me well and after going to the Corsair Reunion in
> > Indianapolis last September I had no problem hearing the tower and other
> > planes on the frequency. One thing that may help is just switching to
> one
> > mag while doing your radio work....but I've tried that at the suggestion
> of
> > another pilot and it didn't seem to make a dramatic improvement in
> > lessening the engine buzz.
> > 95% of the flying I do at non-towered airports I don't use a radio
> > anyway. There's quite a bit of people talking over other people on
nice
> > days and pilots calling out 20 times before they execute a 10 mile
> > final....totally annoying and counter-productive. If anything in going
to
> > a busy fly-in I'll monitor the freq. to maybe hear someone that my eyes
> may
> > have missed, but othewise..........
> > Mike C.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: intercom & radios |
this maybe the place
http://www.rst-engr.com/
Del
--- James Dallas wrote:
>
>
> Walt,
> Jim Weir at RST Electronics has a simple intercom
> system you can make up for
> pennies from scratch.
> Jim Dallas
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Michael D Cuy" <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov>
> To:
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: intercom & radios
>
>
> Cuy
>
> >
> > Walt-- I have some inexpensive Pilot Avionics
> headsets (look like Clarks)
> > and two tan cloth flying helmets that I got from
> Flight Suites
> > Limited (they are on the web I think...search w/
> google to find
> > them.) and a 9V two-person voice activated
> Sigtronics intercom box. Ted
> > is right about the noise in an open cockpit being
> enough to keep the voice
> > activated ones 'open' all the time so a push to
> talk version might be the
> > way to go. (just more wires in the cockpit though
> and that can get
> > messy.) I put foam mic protectors to cut down on
> wind noise and that has
> > helped. I also turn down the volume unless I
> hear my passenger start to
> > talk or I want to say something to them. It
> works out ok. Most rides
> are
> > less than 1/2 hour in my case so it's not bad.
> > Ref the handheld radio and non-shielded
> ignition
> > systems. Surprisingly after buying a little
> Icom handheld and an
> > internal fuselage antenna I don't have much of a
> problem with ignition
> > noise. I mean you can tell that it is there but
> people on the ground say
> > they can hear me well and after going to the
> Corsair Reunion in
> > Indianapolis last September I had no problem
> hearing the tower and other
> > planes on the frequency. One thing that may help
> is just switching to
> one
> > mag while doing your radio work....but I've tried
> that at the suggestion
> of
> > another pilot and it didn't seem to make a
> dramatic improvement in
> > lessening the engine buzz.
> > 95% of the flying I do at non-towered airports I
> don't use a radio
> > anyway. There's quite a bit of people talking
> over other people on nice
> > days and pilots calling out 20 times before they
> execute a 10 mile
> > final....totally annoying and counter-productive.
> If anything in going to
> > a busy fly-in I'll monitor the freq. to maybe hear
> someone that my eyes
> may
> > have missed, but othewise..........
> > Mike C.
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
>
Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/pietenpol-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Del-New Richmond, Wi
"farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com"
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gadd, Skip" <Skip.Gadd(at)ssa.gov> |
| Subject: | intercom & radios |
Walt,
Edwin Johnson sent this yesterday, www.rst-engr.com it is Jim Weir's
business.
Sort of a Heathkit for airplane electronics.
Skip
>Jim,
>How do I get ahold of that?
>walt
>> Walt,
>> Jim Weir at RST Electronics has a simple intercom system you can make up
>for
>> pennies from scratch.
>> Jim Dallas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Loar" <skycarl(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: intercom & radios |
Walt,,, I have a RST intercom that I put together and have used for years.
It's a great kit and fun to put together. All of Jim Weir's stuff is good.
He use to,still may, write the electronics article for Kitplanes mag.
Lot of good stuff on his web site.
Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: intercom & radios
>
> Jim,
> How do I get ahold of that?
> walt
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Dallas" <BEC176(at)msn.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: intercom & radios
>
>
> >
> > Walt,
> > Jim Weir at RST Electronics has a simple intercom system you can make up
> for
> > pennies from scratch.
> > Jim Dallas
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Michael D Cuy" <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov>
> > To:
> > Subject: Pietenpol-List: intercom & radios
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Walt-- I have some inexpensive Pilot Avionics headsets (look like
> Clarks)
> > > and two tan cloth flying helmets that I got from Flight Suites
> > > Limited (they are on the web I think...search w/ google to find
> > > them.) and a 9V two-person voice activated Sigtronics intercom box.
> Ted
> > > is right about the noise in an open cockpit being enough to keep the
> voice
> > > activated ones 'open' all the time so a push to talk version might be
> the
> > > way to go. (just more wires in the cockpit though and that can get
> > > messy.) I put foam mic protectors to cut down on wind noise and that
> has
> > > helped. I also turn down the volume unless I hear my passenger start
> to
> > > talk or I want to say something to them. It works out ok. Most
rides
> > are
> > > less than 1/2 hour in my case so it's not bad.
> > > Ref the handheld radio and non-shielded ignition
> > > systems. Surprisingly after buying a little Icom handheld and an
> > > internal fuselage antenna I don't have much of a problem with ignition
> > > noise. I mean you can tell that it is there but people on the ground
> say
> > > they can hear me well and after going to the Corsair Reunion in
> > > Indianapolis last September I had no problem hearing the tower and
other
> > > planes on the frequency. One thing that may help is just switching
to
> > one
> > > mag while doing your radio work....but I've tried that at the
suggestion
> > of
> > > another pilot and it didn't seem to make a dramatic improvement in
> > > lessening the engine buzz.
> > > 95% of the flying I do at non-towered airports I don't use a radio
> > > anyway. There's quite a bit of people talking over other people on
> nice
> > > days and pilots calling out 20 times before they execute a 10 mile
> > > final....totally annoying and counter-productive. If anything in
going
> to
> > > a busy fly-in I'll monitor the freq. to maybe hear someone that my
eyes
> > may
> > > have missed, but othewise..........
> > > Mike C.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Dallas" <BEC176(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: intercom & radios |
Walt,
http://www.rst-engr.com/
then tab to articles on the sidebar, then scroll down to the article on how
to build the intercom for under 10.00
Jim Dallas
----- Original Message -----
From: "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: intercom & radios
>
> Jim,
> How do I get ahold of that?
> walt
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Dallas" <BEC176(at)msn.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: intercom & radios
>
>
> >
> > Walt,
> > Jim Weir at RST Electronics has a simple intercom system you can make up
> for
> > pennies from scratch.
> > Jim Dallas
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Michael D Cuy" <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov>
> > To:
> > Subject: Pietenpol-List: intercom & radios
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Walt-- I have some inexpensive Pilot Avionics headsets (look like
> Clarks)
> > > and two tan cloth flying helmets that I got from Flight Suites
> > > Limited (they are on the web I think...search w/ google to find
> > > them.) and a 9V two-person voice activated Sigtronics intercom box.
> Ted
> > > is right about the noise in an open cockpit being enough to keep the
> voice
> > > activated ones 'open' all the time so a push to talk version might be
> the
> > > way to go. (just more wires in the cockpit though and that can get
> > > messy.) I put foam mic protectors to cut down on wind noise and that
> has
> > > helped. I also turn down the volume unless I hear my passenger start
> to
> > > talk or I want to say something to them. It works out ok. Most
rides
> > are
> > > less than 1/2 hour in my case so it's not bad.
> > > Ref the handheld radio and non-shielded ignition
> > > systems. Surprisingly after buying a little Icom handheld and an
> > > internal fuselage antenna I don't have much of a problem with ignition
> > > noise. I mean you can tell that it is there but people on the ground
> say
> > > they can hear me well and after going to the Corsair Reunion in
> > > Indianapolis last September I had no problem hearing the tower and
other
> > > planes on the frequency. One thing that may help is just switching
to
> > one
> > > mag while doing your radio work....but I've tried that at the
suggestion
> > of
> > > another pilot and it didn't seem to make a dramatic improvement in
> > > lessening the engine buzz.
> > > 95% of the flying I do at non-towered airports I don't use a radio
> > > anyway. There's quite a bit of people talking over other people on
> nice
> > > days and pilots calling out 20 times before they execute a 10 mile
> > > final....totally annoying and counter-productive. If anything in
going
> to
> > > a busy fly-in I'll monitor the freq. to maybe hear someone that my
eyes
> > may
> > > have missed, but othewise..........
> > > Mike C.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Holcomb" <ksholcomb(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Individual Histories/Registry of Pietenpol Airplanes |
I added a spread sheet to the Pietenpol page within my web page that
accounts for all of the Pietenpol's that I have been able to find. My
interest is primairly pre-war airplanes but as that only tells part of the
story I am interested in listing all of the airplanes (completed only) for
which I can find details. Anyway, if anyone out there has an airplane they
would like to add to the list, or additional information on one that I
already list please contact me directly (ksholcomb(at)mindspring.com)
My page is at: http://www.angelfire.com/va2/aerodrome/
Best Regards,
Kevin Holcomb
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
"Fishnet"
| Subject: | can you communicate between holes in an open cockpit plane? |
Only once been in an open cockpit plane (Aeronca PT-19) once, and we didn't talk.
In a tandem Pietenpol, can you talk to each other? Yell to each other? I
remember taking my kids up in the rented J-3, and doing OK, kind of yelling.
Is that the case in the open Pietenpol or a Celebrity? Maybe I'm pushing this
intercom thing too far.
walt
NX140DL
(north N.J.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary McNeel, Jr." <gmcneel(at)mykitplane.com> |
| Subject: | can you communicate between holes in an open |
cockpit plane?
Get the intercom if you can Walt. I have flown in many open cockpit planes
now. It is nearly impossible to have any conversation. But it is really nice
to talk with someone who is with you.
-Gary
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of walter
> evans
> Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2003 5:31 PM
> To: piet discussion; Fishnet
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: can you communicate between holes in an open
> cockpit plane?
>
>
>
>
> Only once been in an open cockpit plane (Aeronca PT-19) once, and
> we didn't talk. In a tandem Pietenpol, can you talk to each
> other? Yell to each other? I remember taking my kids up in the
> rented J-3, and doing OK, kind of yelling. Is that the case in
> the open Pietenpol or a Celebrity? Maybe I'm pushing this
> intercom thing too far.
> walt
> NX140DL
> (north N.J.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ken Rickards <krickards(at)cvci.com> |
| Subject: | Updated Web site |
I have just up dated my web site with Rudder & Elevator construction pics.
http://home.cogeco.ca/%7Epietbuilder/index.htm
Ken
Ken Rickards
Cole Vision Canada
80 Centurion Drive,
Markham, Ontario.
L3R 8C1
tel 905-940-8675 ext 237
krickards(at)CVCI.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary McNeel, Jr." <gmcneel(at)mykitplane.com> |
| Subject: | Junkyard Wars last night... |
Very cool show. 2 hours. Each team (French, Brit, US) had to build a Dawn of
Discovery period plane, using only (well, mostly only) tools from the
period. They all flew (to a greater or lesser degree). The Brits plane flew
great.
http://tlc.discovery.com/fansites/junkyard/flight/flight.html
What a blast that would be.
Regards,
Gary P. McNeel, Jr.
MyKitPlane.com
EAA Chapter 12, Houston
gmcneel(at)mykitplane.com
gmcneel(at)simdesk.com
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/buildLogReport.cfm?PlaneID=43
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/buildLogReport.cfm?PlaneID=68
"What's the hurry? Are you afraid I won't come back?"
Manfred von Richthofen, 'The Red Baron,' last recorded words, in reply to
a request for an autograph as he was climbing into the cockpit of his plane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary McNeel, Jr." <gmcneel(at)mykitplane.com> |
| Subject: | Updated Web site |
Way to go. Your plane is looking great. Keep up the great work. Before you
know it, you will have a plane.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ken
> Rickards
> Sent: Monday, March 10, 2003 4:11 PM
> To: 'pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com'
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Updated Web site
>
>
> I have just up dated my web site with Rudder & Elevator construction pics.
>
>
> http://home.cogeco.ca/%7Epietbuilder/index.htm
>
> Ken
>
>
> Ken Rickards
> Cole Vision Canada
> 80 Centurion Drive,
> Markham, Ontario.
> L3R 8C1
>
> tel 905-940-8675 ext 237
> krickards(at)CVCI.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Malcolm Morrison" <morrisons5(at)adelphia.net> |
| Subject: | Corvair motor mount question |
I'm ready to start work on my Corvair motor mount, but I have 3 questions for those
of you with experience.
1. How far ahead of the firewall did you put your engine (rear mounting holes?)
2. How high is your thrust line (to top longeron)?
3. How far back did you have to move your wing?
Thanks
Malcolm Morrison
Howard, PA
Fuselage on gear, tail done
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net> |
The show will air three more times. See the link below.
Chris Bobka
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gary
McNeel, Jr.
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Junkyard Wars last night...
Very cool show. 2 hours. Each team (French, Brit, US) had to build a Dawn of
Discovery period plane, using only (well, mostly only) tools from the
period. They all flew (to a greater or lesser degree). The Brits plane flew
great.
http://tlc.discovery.com/fansites/junkyard/flight/flight.html
What a blast that would be.
Regards,
Gary P. McNeel, Jr.
MyKitPlane.com
EAA Chapter 12, Houston
gmcneel(at)mykitplane.com
gmcneel(at)simdesk.com
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/buildLogReport.cfm?PlaneID=43
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/buildLogReport.cfm?PlaneID=68
"What's the hurry? Are you afraid I won't come back?"
Manfred von Richthofen, 'The Red Baron,' last recorded words, in reply to
a request for an autograph as he was climbing into the cockpit of his plane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clif <cdawson5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: can you communicate between holes in an open |
cockpit plane?
Well, there's always the Tiger Moth option, isn't there. Clif
----- Original Message -----
From: "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: can you communicate between holes in an open
cockpit plane?
>
> Only once been in an open cockpit plane (Aeronca PT-19) once, and we
didn't talk. In a tandem Pietenpol, can you talk to each other? Yell to
each other? I remember taking my kids up in the rented J-3, and doing OK,
kind of yelling. Is that the case in the open Pietenpol or a Celebrity?
Maybe I'm pushing this intercom thing too far.
> walt
> NX140DL
> (north N.J.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
Howdy, Pieters-
Question for Chris and anyone else who applied to be a DAR- I see in the
latest EAA online newsletter that the very first EAA DAR got his papers.
Any idea when the pipeline will start flowing and we'll get some REAL
homebuilder-friendly inspectors? I put in a good word for Chris...
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | length of cabanes |
Howdy again, Pieters;
I forgot to mention that I got my Sport Aviation in the mail yesterday and
noticed a Piet in there. Anybody else notice that the builder lengthened
the cabanes to raise the wing for easier entry to the cockpits... lengthened
the cabanes by EIGHT INCHES?!! If you look at it, it's noticeable but I
didn't spot it at first. Wonder how if flies?
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Loar" <skycarl(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Corvair motor mount question |
Malcolm,, I don't have the plane handy or my plans laid out but if you have
your plans , this might help.
I'm a big guy so I set my plane up to work for me. I set the motor mount 2
inches further than plans.
My thrust line was according to plans with a one inch drop for angle of
incident.
I moved the wing back 3 and a half inches.I added two inches to the cabane
struts.
My corvair is a no fan,prop start. I haven't did the wt & bal yet but
praying to be in the ball park.
Hope this helps.
Carl
----- Original Message -----
From: "Malcolm Morrison" <morrisons5(at)adelphia.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Corvair motor mount question
>
> I'm ready to start work on my Corvair motor mount, but I have 3 questions
for those of you with experience.
> 1. How far ahead of the firewall did you put your engine (rear mounting
holes?)
> 2. How high is your thrust line (to top longeron)?
> 3. How far back did you have to move your wing?
>
> Thanks
> Malcolm Morrison
> Howard, PA
> Fuselage on gear, tail done
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Q&A on internal antenna for wood or composite aircraft |
Group........I don't know if this is the place I bought my flexible, (no
ground plane required) flexible
internal fuselage aircraft antenna for my hand held or not, but it is the
same model. This page has some
excellent questions and answers and a diagram with dimensions of what the
antenna looks like. I mounted it
behind the rear seat in an inverted "U" type shape up into the turtle deck
curvature, then down each side of the
fuselage. I ty-wrapped it to the wood structure. I ran a simple coax
from the antenna to under my seat so I can
hook it up to the hand held. In the process I lost my rubber duck antenna
and Icom wants $30 bucks for a replacement.
Arrrgh. Anyway, check this out if you so desire.
Mike C.
http://www.advancedaircraft.com/FAQs/faqs.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Q&A on internal antenna for wood or composite aircraft |
You can buy a set of documents from Jim Wier at RST and you can make your
own antennas. That is what I did. He might even have the info available on
the RST website. They are copies of articles that appeared in Kitplanes
magazine maybe 15 years ago.
Chris Bobka
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael D
Cuy
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Q&A on internal antenna for wood or composite
aircraft
Group........I don't know if this is the place I bought my flexible, (no
ground plane required) flexible
internal fuselage aircraft antenna for my hand held or not, but it is the
same model. This page has some
excellent questions and answers and a diagram with dimensions of what the
antenna looks like. I mounted it
behind the rear seat in an inverted "U" type shape up into the turtle deck
curvature, then down each side of the
fuselage. I ty-wrapped it to the wood structure. I ran a simple coax
from the antenna to under my seat so I can
hook it up to the hand held. In the process I lost my rubber duck antenna
and Icom wants $30 bucks for a replacement.
Arrrgh. Anyway, check this out if you so desire.
Mike C.
http://www.advancedaircraft.com/FAQs/faqs.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <jackphillips(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Q&A on internal antenna for wood or composite aircraft |
Hi Mike,
This is exactly the same antenna I mounted in my wing. I mounted it inside
the plywood leading edge so I will have max range ahead and behind (which
suits me just fine). I was worried that the silver pigment in the poly
spray would attenuate the signal some, but I guess that's not a problem.
Sure is nice to be able to have a high performance antenna without
destroying the antique look of the plane.
My Father-in-Law found it for me at a Fly market and paid $50 for it. They
are about $125 in the ASS catalog.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael D
Cuy
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Q&A on internal antenna for wood or composite
aircraft
Group........I don't know if this is the place I bought my flexible, (no
ground plane required) flexible
internal fuselage aircraft antenna for my hand held or not, but it is the
same model. This page has some
excellent questions and answers and a diagram with dimensions of what the
antenna looks like. I mounted it
behind the rear seat in an inverted "U" type shape up into the turtle deck
curvature, then down each side of the
fuselage. I ty-wrapped it to the wood structure. I ran a simple coax
from the antenna to under my seat so I can
hook it up to the hand held. In the process I lost my rubber duck antenna
and Icom wants $30 bucks for a replacement.
Arrrgh. Anyway, check this out if you so desire.
Mike C.
http://www.advancedaircraft.com/FAQs/faqs.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979(at)naples.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Q&A on internal antenna for wood or composite aircraft |
Chris,
I looked at his site last week. I seem to remember a kit he sells with
copper, ferrite "donuts" (this is all from memory so may not be exact) and
seems like something else for about $30. Is that what you put together?
And it works good?
Thanks, Ted
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Q&A on internal antenna for wood or composite
aircraft
>
> You can buy a set of documents from Jim Wier at RST and you can make your
> own antennas. That is what I did. He might even have the info available
on
> the RST website. They are copies of articles that appeared in Kitplanes
> magazine maybe 15 years ago.
>
> Chris Bobka
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael D
> Cuy
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Q&A on internal antenna for wood or composite
> aircraft
>
>
>
>
> Group........I don't know if this is the place I bought my flexible, (no
> ground plane required) flexible
> internal fuselage aircraft antenna for my hand held or not, but it is the
> same model. This page has some
> excellent questions and answers and a diagram with dimensions of what the
> antenna looks like. I mounted it
> behind the rear seat in an inverted "U" type shape up into the turtle deck
> curvature, then down each side of the
> fuselage. I ty-wrapped it to the wood structure. I ran a simple coax
> from the antenna to under my seat so I can
> hook it up to the hand held. In the process I lost my rubber duck
antenna
> and Icom wants $30 bucks for a replacement.
> Arrrgh. Anyway, check this out if you so desire.
>
> Mike C.
>
> http://www.advancedaircraft.com/FAQs/faqs.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel Bailey" <dbceltic(at)micoks.net> |
Does anyone know of a Piet using one of the "LOM" engines, from Moraviation. Seems
a lot of homebuilts have used them with good success. I am thinking of the
M132A, a bit more HP than needed, but the right weight, and excellent profile.
Dan Bailey
Paola, KS
---
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
Howdy, folks;
I'm wondering if there is an info website or other source of information on
the Brodhead fly-in? I don't want to clog the net with details, but I'd
like to go this summer and would like to get info on camping, facilities,
etc. I have camping gear and would like to camp on the field but will
probably not be flying in and didn't know if you had to fly in to camp on
the field. Old newsletters indicate that showers and bathrooms may have
been put in, but that's the sort of thing I'd like to verify.
If there isn't a website, maybe name and number of an airport manager or
someone on the field who I could talk to?
Thanks.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Brodhead 2003 |
Oscar---The Piet fly-in is real simple. You fly in, you drive in you camp
on the field if you want.
People are encouraged to make a donation which in return you get a Brodhead
button. The donation
helps defray the cost of port-a-potties, trash collection, etc. There are
no formal things about the fly-in at all.
Sometimes people give talks under an open air pavilion. They (last I
knew) served breakfast on Friday and Sat....
and a dinner on Sat. eve....but things change year to year so don't go by
my word alone.
There are sometimes 2 Piets that show up and sometimes 10. It all depends
on the weather and who is free
to bring their planes. Sometimes the turnout is VERY
disappointing. Sometimes it's quite good.
There are NO motels in Brodhead. They didn't have a McDonald's til a
few years back. Monroe is your closest
town w/ motels. I think the guys who are in charge of the new Piet
newsletter Lee Stenson or some such name
and someone else would be the ones to call if you need more info. Course
the newsletter has the date of the fly-in.
Last I was there they had two bathrooms, each w/ a shower stall. I don't
think they are setup like a campground
though as far as hookups for RV's. It's a real simple grass airport w/
gasoline a few trees and some neat hangars
over to one side with lots of cool projects and antiques in them. Hope
this helps,
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Junkyard wars prove build light.....have the right CG |
Just like when you are building your Pietenpol or GN-1.......try to keep it
as light as
possible and get the CG right for your engine and your butt weight. The
American team
on Junkyard wars built a heavy plane (lots of steel while the others used
lots of wood) and
they had to keep adding weight to the tail just to get the CG right on the
American design. The thing basically
flew in ground effect from what I could see. (when it did finally
fly) Even Andrew King (who is a big Piet supporter
and good pilot) said it was the worst flying plane of any of the 92 he had
flown before.
So don't add air conditioning and retractable gear and a third seat and get
your CG right and
you'll have a great flying Pietenpol and be able to take passengers too !
PS---my sympathies for builders who are forced to put in electrical systems
to run radios and transponders
because of the airspace requirements abover where they live.
PSS---it was kind of funny to see that lady Wendy from the other team have
to help three head-scratching Americans try to figure out why their engine
wouldn't start when the other two teams had no problems;) (They all were
provided identical engines.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "malcolm Zirges" <macz(at)macsells.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brodhead 2003 |
Hello. I would like to add my 2 cents to what Michael said--the Brodhead
folks do a great job of organizing an easy-going gathering. There are
plenty of porta-potties, a couple of showers, and plenty of neat areas to
camp around the edge of the field under the trees. They almost always have
inexpensive feeds for breakfast and dinner, and there is pop and other
snacks available. There are lots of opportunities to chat with or listen to
many of the Piet stalwarts and watch Piets fly. In short, It is a blast!
Mac in Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Brodhead 2003
>
> Howdy, folks;
>
> I'm wondering if there is an info website or other source of information
on
> the Brodhead fly-in? I don't want to clog the net with details, but I'd
> like to go this summer and would like to get info on camping, facilities,
> etc. I have camping gear and would like to camp on the field but will
> probably not be flying in and didn't know if you had to fly in to camp on
> the field. Old newsletters indicate that showers and bathrooms may have
> been put in, but that's the sort of thing I'd like to verify.
>
> If there isn't a website, maybe name and number of an airport manager or
> someone on the field who I could talk to?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isablcorky(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Sport Pilot Dreams |
Pieters,
How many of you are picking up on FAA's new line, " not sure whether the
Sport Pilot will be able to fly WITHOUT a medical" This has appeared in
several news releases since they declined AOPA's and EAA's latest proposals
on drivers lic for rec pilots. It would appear that the writing is plain as
the big nose on your face. With the histeria from 9/11 FAA would be very
reluctant to release ANY authority. An example, can any recall any government
body (beauros) ever reducing a tax. I would imagine the same fate for the
driver's lic physical exclusion.
May I suggest that EAA and AOPA approach this from the back door. Instead of
relaxing physical requirements for flying OUR Piets, which those quacks in
Oak City will never agree to, lets push to have OUR Piets reclassified as an
Ultralight. This could solve a big problem.
Thanks for bearing with my dreams.
Corky in La still looking at his Piet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
This from the KRNet:
>Engine for sale. A-65 dismantled, ready to assemble. Contact him,
>Not me at 305-606-2352 Cell [looks like Miami, FL area code]
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | more on Brodhead |
copied and pasted this direct from Barnstormers.com
PIETENPOL =95 FLY-IN!! Come to the Annual Brodhead Pietenpol Fly-in, July
25-27 at Brodhead, Wisconsin. Food, camping, airplanes and seminars on the
field. Bring your finished airplanes, projects or parts for show and tell.
Contact Lee Stenson (608) 897-4000 for details. Do not Contact Chad Wille
located Corning IA USA. Telephone: (641)322-4041. -- Posted 4 March 2003 --
Show all Ads posted by this Advertiser -- To send this Ad to a friend:
Click here.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "allen smith" <allenfarleysmith(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | GN-1 steel tube fuselage plan |
Dear fellow Pietenpol friends,
I need a little help. I am building an Aircamper. Part of the reason I chose
to build this aircraft was because of the ability to post questions to a
friendly bunch of folks. I am following the original plans as closely as
possible however, I am building a steel tube fuselage.To do this,I have
been working from an incomplete, crumpled 3rd generation copy of a GN1 steel
tube fuselage plan. I began my layout work for my fuselage from this simply
because I considered it to be a more detailed description of a steel tube
Aircamper fuselage than the line drawings of the steel tube drawing on my
original supplemental drawings that I got from Ron Pitenpol. Does anyone
know where I can get a full set of GN1 Plans so that I can study this
interpretation of our Aircamper?
Thanks,
Allen Smith
Hood River, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wizzard187(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Brodhead 2003 |
Broadhead campers. Just remember to bring what ever you need to fight
Misqueitos. or those bugs that give you west nile. Ken
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rod wooller" <rodwooller(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Dreams |
Corky and all,
The main reasons I decided on building a Piet are these:
(1) Plans built (no large upfront expense for a kit).
(2) Simple wood and fabric construction (within my capabilities).
(3) In Australia it CAN BE REGISTERED AS AN ULTRALIGHT and be built under
the "Amateur Built Ultralight" regulations, which briefly is an aircraft
with a max. of 2 seats, 1 engine and MTOW of 544 kilograms.
An AUF Pilots Certificate is required to fly the Piet, but no medical, (just
drivers license standard).
The Australian Ultralight Federation fought long and hard for these and
other freedoms, but it is an ongoing battle to retain them.
Good luck with your bureaucrats, hope to see you all at Brodhead.
Rod Wooller
Chidlow
Australia
>From: Isablcorky(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>To: pietenpol-list-digest(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Sport Pilot Dreams
>Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 09:10:22 EST
>
>
>>May I suggest that EAA and AOPA approach this from the back door. Instead
>>of
>relaxing physical requirements for flying OUR Piets, which those quacks in
>Oak City will never agree to, lets push to have OUR Piets reclassified as
>an
>Ultralight. This could solve a big problem.
>Thanks for bearing with my dreams.
>
>Corky in La still looking at his Piet
>
>
Hotmail now available on Australian mobile phones. Go to
http://ninemsn.com.au/mobilecentral/hotmail_mobile.asp
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dilatush" <dilatush(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Building articles |
Pieters,
To those of you who are still building, you might want to look in on a series of
articles published by AVflash.com on the web about building a Piet. Try:
http://www.avweb.com/news/homeblts/183301-1.html
John Dilatush NX114D
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratril" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
I picked up this atttached item from AOPA newsletter.
Dick N
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kip & Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Dreams |
>
>
>Where can we read this thing???
>thanks
>walt evans
Group,
Here's what I saw. It came out this week in the weekly electronic
newsletter that EAA sends to any member who has subscribed to it.
What it said was that the FAA had turned down the proposal by EAA and AOPA
to waive the medical requirement for the RECREATIONAL PILOT certificate.
EAA & Aopa had proposed this waiver to do a 5-year study of whether or not
there would be any negative impact of not requiring a medical.
I have not seen anything in the press indicating that there will be a
medical requirement for the SPORT PILOT certificate, but I've heard a bunch
of rumors & not just on this list. They started right after the news came
out about the Rec. Pilot thing.
I'd like to know if anyone has actually seen something in print from EAA,
FAA or AOPA regarding a medical for Sport Pilot.
Hoping this is all a misunderstanding,
Kip Gardner (Spring has Finally ARRIVED in NE Ohio)
North Canton, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LAWRENCE WILLIAMS" <lnawms(at)msn.com> |
The CVG wx today was finally good enough to go Pieting, so I committed aviation
!! The mighty Ford roared to life and angels sang as we rose into the crisp blue
sky. I had forgotten just how magic and wonderful it is to levitate at 45
kias in the Piet. Beats the heck out of my day job where things are just starting
to come alive at 45 kts.
After a careful post flight, all I could find, aside from the oily streaks, was
that one bungee (on the side that got wounded in the hay field last summer) was
weak. Probably a good thing to change those out each year, anyhow. Other than
that, it was simply superb! The winter sleep didn't seem to have made any difference
to my noble sky-steed.
Jeez, enough flowery prose. That's not my normal mode but that's what flying my
Pietenpol does to me. Happens every time as those who tried to talk to me at
Brodhead last year know. I doubt if I was coherent for two days after that much
concentrated Piet flying.
Boy, do I love it!!
Now, let's hear from all you other snowbound and frustrated flyers..............
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratril" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
Sorry all
I forgot, no attachments on the site. Try www.aopa.org/whatsnew/newsitems/2003/03-1-113xhtml
I'm not sure if you have to be a member to access it. If it doesn't work e-mail
me direct and I'll send it.
Dick
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
"Pietenpol-List Digest Server"
Lawrence,
sounds great,,,but still in a mire of ice and mud here in NJ.
walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "LAWRENCE WILLIAMS" <lnawms(at)msn.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: FLIGHT!!
>
> The CVG wx today was finally good enough to go Pieting, so I committed
aviation !! The mighty Ford roared to life and angels sang as we rose into
the crisp blue sky. I had forgotten just how magic and wonderful it is to
levitate at 45 kias in the Piet. Beats the heck out of my day job where
things are just starting to come alive at 45 kts.
>
>
> After a careful post flight, all I could find, aside from the oily
streaks, was that one bungee (on the side that got wounded in the hay field
last summer) was weak. Probably a good thing to change those out each year,
anyhow. Other than that, it was simply superb! The winter sleep didn't seem
to have made any difference to my noble sky-steed.
>
> Jeez, enough flowery prose. That's not my normal mode but that's what
flying my Pietenpol does to me. Happens every time as those who tried to
talk to me at Brodhead last year know. I doubt if I was coherent for two
days after that much concentrated Piet flying.
>
> Boy, do I love it!!
>
> Now, let's hear from all you other snowbound and frustrated
flyers..............
>
> Larry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Dreams |
Kip,
This has been a breath of fresh air after reading the posts in the last few
days about the sport thing going to crap. Hopefully it was in error by the
posters, and is still on track.
After reading the post I looked high and low for reference to it but
couldn't find anything.
It's so rediculious to think that some 80 year old man/woman could be
comming at you on a two lane road on the Tamiami trail in FLA, and be
passing you at 60+mph, while you are doing 60+ mph. To think what would
happen if they checked out at that moment.......
If a sport pilot checked out, he only goes into the wilderness hurting no
one.
go figure???
walt
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kip & Beth Gardner" <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Sport Pilot Dreams
>
> >
> >
> >Where can we read this thing???
> >thanks
> >walt evans
>
> Group,
>
> Here's what I saw. It came out this week in the weekly electronic
> newsletter that EAA sends to any member who has subscribed to it.
>
> What it said was that the FAA had turned down the proposal by EAA and AOPA
> to waive the medical requirement for the RECREATIONAL PILOT certificate.
>
> EAA & Aopa had proposed this waiver to do a 5-year study of whether or not
> there would be any negative impact of not requiring a medical.
>
> I have not seen anything in the press indicating that there will be a
> medical requirement for the SPORT PILOT certificate, but I've heard a
bunch
> of rumors & not just on this list. They started right after the news came
> out about the Rec. Pilot thing.
>
> I'd like to know if anyone has actually seen something in print from EAA,
> FAA or AOPA regarding a medical for Sport Pilot.
>
> Hoping this is all a misunderstanding,
>
> Kip Gardner (Spring has Finally ARRIVED in NE Ohio)
>
>
> North Canton, OH
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979(at)naples.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Dreams |
Yes, here is the exact quote from AOPA. It basically says the FAA turned
down the request to exempt RECREATIONAL pilots from the medical because it
wants to evaluate it only for SPORT PILOTS. There still is hope Corky.
Ted
AOPA'S PETITION FOR MEDICAL EXEMPTION IS DENIED
The FAA has denied AOPA's petition to provide an exemption for pilots
exercising recreational pilot privileges from the current medical
certification rules. The FAA told AOPA that it only wants to evaluate
the possibility of sport pilots using valid driver's licenses in lieu
of medicals, and that it has not decided whether sport pilots will be
required to obtain medical certificates. The agency said that it is
premature to consider including recreational pilot operations. See
( http://www.aopa.org/whatsnew/newsitems/2003/03-1-113x.html ).
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kip & Beth Gardner" <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Sport Pilot Dreams
>
> >
> >
> >Where can we read this thing???
> >thanks
> >walt evans
>
> Group,
>
> Here's what I saw. It came out this week in the weekly electronic
> newsletter that EAA sends to any member who has subscribed to it.
>
> What it said was that the FAA had turned down the proposal by EAA and AOPA
> to waive the medical requirement for the RECREATIONAL PILOT certificate.
>
> EAA & Aopa had proposed this waiver to do a 5-year study of whether or not
> there would be any negative impact of not requiring a medical.
>
> I have not seen anything in the press indicating that there will be a
> medical requirement for the SPORT PILOT certificate, but I've heard a
bunch
> of rumors & not just on this list. They started right after the news came
> out about the Rec. Pilot thing.
>
> I'd like to know if anyone has actually seen something in print from EAA,
> FAA or AOPA regarding a medical for Sport Pilot.
>
> Hoping this is all a misunderstanding,
>
> Kip Gardner (Spring has Finally ARRIVED in NE Ohio)
>
>
> North Canton, OH
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary McNeel, Jr." <gmcneel(at)mykitplane.com> |
| Subject: | Building articles |
Great article series. -Gary
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John
> Dilatush
> Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2003 5:52 AM
> To: Pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Building articles
>
>
> Pieters,
>
> To those of you who are still building, you might want to look in
> on a series of articles published by AVflash.com on the web about
> building a Piet. Try:
> http://www.avweb.com/news/homeblts/183301-1.html
>
> John Dilatush NX114D
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "malcolm Zirges" <macz(at)macsells.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GN-1 steel tube fuselage plan |
Hello. Have you seen the Pietenpol steel tube fuselage plans in the old
Flying and Glider Manual sold by EAA? These are the ones Bernie Pietenpol
had Westy Farmer draw up for him and are fairly detailed.
Cordially, Mac in Newport, Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: "allen smith" <allenfarleysmith(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: GN-1 steel tube fuselage plan
>
>
> Dear fellow Pietenpol friends,
>
> I need a little help. I am building an Aircamper. Part of the reason I
chose
> to build this aircraft was because of the ability to post questions to a
> friendly bunch of folks. I am following the original plans as closely as
> possible however, I am building a steel tube fuselage.To do this,I have
> been working from an incomplete, crumpled 3rd generation copy of a GN1
steel
> tube fuselage plan. I began my layout work for my fuselage from this
simply
> because I considered it to be a more detailed description of a steel tube
> Aircamper fuselage than the line drawings of the steel tube drawing on my
> original supplemental drawings that I got from Ron Pitenpol. Does anyone
> know where I can get a full set of GN1 Plans so that I can study this
> interpretation of our Aircamper?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Allen Smith
> Hood River, OR
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ian Holland" <iholland(at)telusplanet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot dreams |
Right on!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | progress on the GN-1 |
Put in another 7 hours of work on the GN-1 today. No pics on the website
yet, but will have them up in a few days.
I put on the firewall and front cockpit panel. I then formed the front
combing from .032 aluminum (I think .024 woulda been better). I fastened
the combing on with 4-40 machine screws into "blind" nuts along the left and
right lower edges. I put screws every 2".
I then "engine turned" the aluminum combing with my drill and 1.5" wire
brush. I had intended on painting the combing the same color as the fuse,
but thought I'd play around with engine turning it. I must say I like the
look. Very indicative of the 1930's. I may just leave it instead of
painting.
I'm so excited... my fuselage is looking great..... looking like a plane
now and not a boat on wheels.
I'll post a link when photos are available on my site.
DJ Vegh
www.imagedv.com/aircamper
N74DV
Mesa, AZ
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Q&A on internal antenna for wood or composite aircraft |
Ted,
I bought the torroids at a local surplus electonics place along with the big
diameter heat shrink tubing. Everything else came from the scrap box. That
is what I used. The kit is based on his articles. If you have the articles
and access to the parts, the kit then becomes overpriced.
Coast to build was about 3$ in parts and that was enough to make a couple.
.cChris
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ted
Brousseau
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Q&A on internal antenna for wood or
composite aircraft
Chris,
I looked at his site last week. I seem to remember a kit he sells with
copper, ferrite "donuts" (this is all from memory so may not be exact) and
seems like something else for about $30. Is that what you put together?
And it works good?
Thanks, Ted
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Q&A on internal antenna for wood or composite
aircraft
>
> You can buy a set of documents from Jim Wier at RST and you can make your
> own antennas. That is what I did. He might even have the info available
on
> the RST website. They are copies of articles that appeared in Kitplanes
> magazine maybe 15 years ago.
>
> Chris Bobka
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael D
> Cuy
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Q&A on internal antenna for wood or composite
> aircraft
>
>
>
>
> Group........I don't know if this is the place I bought my flexible, (no
> ground plane required) flexible
> internal fuselage aircraft antenna for my hand held or not, but it is the
> same model. This page has some
> excellent questions and answers and a diagram with dimensions of what the
> antenna looks like. I mounted it
> behind the rear seat in an inverted "U" type shape up into the turtle deck
> curvature, then down each side of the
> fuselage. I ty-wrapped it to the wood structure. I ran a simple coax
> from the antenna to under my seat so I can
> hook it up to the hand held. In the process I lost my rubber duck
antenna
> and Icom wants $30 bucks for a replacement.
> Arrrgh. Anyway, check this out if you so desire.
>
> Mike C.
>
> http://www.advancedaircraft.com/FAQs/faqs.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clif <cdawson5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Q&A on internal antenna for wood or composite |
aircraft
http://searchnetworking.techtarget.com/sDefinition/0,,sid7_gci214329,00.html
A ham friend of mine sent me this and a couple of others.
I suggested to him the possibility of using the bottom of
the engine cowl as a ground plane and he thinks it should
work as the antenna only has to be vertical so the g p can
just as easily be on top of the antenna.
I can only paste one per message, the others follow separately.
----- Original Message -----
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Q&A on internal antenna for wood or composite
aircraft
> composite aircraft
> > http://www.advancedaircraft.com/FAQs/faqs.htm
> >
> >>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clif <cdawson5854(at)shaw.ca> |
http://www.ul-pilot.com/~skyraider/srIssues/sfComm/1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clif <cdawson5854(at)shaw.ca> |
http://www.sportflight.com/kfb/groundplane.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clif <cdawson5854(at)shaw.ca> |
http://www.danford.net/comms.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clif <cdawson5854(at)shaw.ca> |
http://www.ul-pilot.com/~skyraider/srIssues/sfComm/1.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lshutks(at)webtv.net (Leon Stefan) |
Hello Dan: No one on this sight has posted that they are using the LOM
engine in the couple of years that I have been on it. I've read all of
the news letter back issues and don't recall any one reporting it there
either. But that doesn't mean it's not being done. If you have the $$$
to do it, go for it. Keep us posted. Leon S. Hutch. Ks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
Does anyone know where to get the "antique style" ignition switches seen in
older planes?
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Q&A on internal antenna for wood or compositeaircraft |
You want the antenna as far from the ignition as possible so I would not put
it on the cowling. Likewise, vibration and prop blast would tear it off in
no time. finally, if you use a dipole antenna, you won't need a ground
plane.
Here is how my dad, the US Mechant Marine radio operator in the big one
double you double you eye eye taught me years ago to make a quality, simple
dipole that has but one connection at, aprly named, the connector (hence
really reliable on an iced over ship in the North Atlantic in 1944):
Take a piece of 50 ohm coax with the multistranded core, braided shield, and
a nonfoam (uses a nylon like material instead) insulator between the core
and the shielding. I use RG-58A/U available at Aircraft Spruce and other
places.
From one end of your coax, carefully cut off the black rubber/plastic that
covers the shielding. Do this for about 30 inches or so (might be 20" if
you use a 1/8 wavelength - see below) from one end of your coax. Bunch up
the braided sheilding so that it can slide up the nylon core insulation.
Now, slide the shielding up and over itself so that the sheilding now is
sliding up the wire the other way. In other words, double the shielding
back up upon itself with the remaining black rubber/plastic that covers the
shielding separating the shielding from itself. Pull it up as far as it can
go. If you have a piece of heatshrink tubing, begin sliding it up and over
the nylon with the core inside until it is up and over the braiding that has
turned up and over itself. The length of each pole of the dipole should be
1/4 wavelength or about 21" or so for the middle of the 118-136 Mhz band
that we use so trim the nylon end to 21" and the upturned braid to 21". If
you want, you can make it 1/8 of a wavelength or 10-1/2" for each pole, that
is ok with a miniscule degradation of performance. It will fit in a piet
better that way. Trim the shielding to the 21 or 10-1/2 inch length and
also trim the insulated core end of the wire to the same length. Finish
sliding the heatshrink up and over the upturned braid and heat it til it
shrinks. I use a paint stripping gun. The antenna portion is thus either
42" long or 21" long depending upon whether youa re doing the 1/4 or 1/8
wavelength antenna.
Attach a BNC connector to the other end of the wire. Make sure that there
is no shorting between the sheilding and the core at the BNC connector or it
will ruin your radio.
There you have it. A dipole antenna tuned to the frequency band we use.
Locate this as vertical as you can with some ribstich cord in the fuselage.
I would make the 1/8 wavelength and attach it to the fuselage side diagonal
that starts just aft of the bellcrank bearing after running the wire along
the top longeron. From where the doubled over shelding begins to the other
end of the wire at the end of the nylon covered core, this should be as
straight run as possible as this is your antenna. What the rest of the coax
does, does not matter as long as you obey the radius of bend rule below.
Also the total length of the rest of the coax does not matter but try not to
have any extra. Also, do not pull the ribstich cord too tight as the coax
properties get really screwed up if you crush in the wall of the core
insulation. That is why we don't use foam insulation in airplane coax.
Also keep the radius of bend of the coax to a big number like 6". (Tiewraps
will usually crumble in a few years so that is why I would use ribstich
thread or something of equal longevity.)
Materials needed is maybe 12 feet of coax and the BNC connector and two feet
of 1/2" heatshrink.
You can mess with this off the airplane and see that it works well. I will
try to get some pictures together.
Chris bobka
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of clif
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Q&A on internal antenna for wood or
compositeaircraft
http://searchnetworking.techtarget.com/sDefinition/0,,sid7_gci214329,00.html
A ham friend of mine sent me this and a couple of others.
I suggested to him the possibility of using the bottom of
the engine cowl as a ground plane and he thinks it should
work as the antenna only has to be vertical so the g p can
just as easily be on top of the antenna.
I can only paste one per message, the others follow separately.
----- Original Message -----
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Q&A on internal antenna for wood or composite
aircraft
> composite aircraft
> > http://www.advancedaircraft.com/FAQs/faqs.htm
> >
> >>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kip & Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ignition switch |
>
>Does anyone know where to get the "antique style" ignition switches seen in
>older planes?
>
>Oscar Zuniga
>San Antonio, TX
>mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
>website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Oscar,
Do you mean the ones that were designed to look like the old 'Dixie' Mag
switch?
If so, they were made by Frank Pavliga - don't know if he still does them
or not. However, I have one that I don't intend to use if you'd like it.
Regards,
Kip Gardner (in uncommonly warm & sunny NE Ohio)
P.S. Guys -
A couple of weeks ago I threw out the idea of hosting William Wynne to do a
"Corvair College" up here during one of the vintage aircraft Fly-Ins at
Barber Field (2D1) this summer (Funks in June, Taylorcrafts in July,
Aeroncas in August, Warbirds in Sept). My intention was to have an event
within reasonable driving distance of the East-Central part of the country
(Indiana/Kentucky east to Pennsylvania/MD).
So far the response has been ZIP, NADA, NOTHING.
So I'm asking one more time (& asking any of you who are on the
CorvairCraft List to cc: to them about this & relay responses back to me).
Is there any interest in such an event?
Kip
North Canton, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Progress on the GN-1 |
DJ---if you really wanna give your swirls an antique look when you are all
finished installing,
etc. brush a coat or two of shellac over the whole thing and in time it
will darken a bit......you can
see what this looks like if you got to the National Air & Space Museum web
site and take a look
at a current photo of Charles Lindbergh's Spirit of St. Louis. Might be
a bit much for a brand new plane though.
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratril" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ignition switch |
Oscar
Try www.apalmer@kopower,com orwww.palmeraviation.com If these dont work he
runs alot of ad's in www.Barnstormers.com
He occasionally wil have the 1940's A-7 and A-9 mag switches although they
are a bit expensive. I see them at $150 - $200
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: ignition switch
>
> Does anyone know where to get the "antique style" ignition switches seen
in
> older planes?
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov> |
Guys--- When I got my FAA inspection a few years ago he never asked to see
my ELT. I didn't have one
and still don't. Walt, Larry....others John D. who got airworthiness
certificates recently....what was your experience with this ?
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | antique mag switch |
Pieters; the "antique-style" ignition switch I had in mind is something like
the one shown at
http://www.avweb.com/newspics/182724piet_instrument_panel.jpg and I guess
from the description it is the "Dixie" type. No one making replicas?
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "rambog(at)erols.com" <rambog(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | antique mag switch |
The one in the references photo is a Bendix Scintilla mag switch from the
late 30's or early 1940's. The Dixie Switch, like any really old switch,
is made to mount to the front of a wooden panel so doesn't have the four
ears for screws to go through so it can mount behind the panel. As Kip
said, Frank Pavliga makes replicas of the Dixie Switch which are nice and
use the guts from a modern switch. Really old switches are as rarte as
hen's teeth.
Gene
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Oscar Zuniga taildrags(at)hotmail.com
Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2003 12:57:57 -0600
Subject: Pietenpol-List: antique mag switch
Pieters; the "antique-style" ignition switch I had in mind is something
like
the one shown at
http://www.avweb.com/newspics/182724piet_instrument_panel.jpg and I guess
from the description it is the "Dixie" type. No one making replicas?
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dilatush" <dilatush(at)amigo.net> |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael D Cuy" <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: ELT's
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Hi Mike,
No, I wasn't asked for an ELT, although I have one installed. I believe
that if you stay within a 50 mile radius of your home field, one is not
required. Check the FARs
part 92.207(f)(3). They specify "training flight", aren't all flights
training? Also (4) might apply to us.
John D,
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
> Guys--- When I got my FAA inspection a few years ago he never asked to see
> my ELT. I didn't have one
> and still don't. Walt, Larry....others John D. who got airworthiness
> certificates recently....what was your experience with this ?
>
> Mike C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Mike,
I was lucky enough to have a friend that wasn't using one to loan it to me.
Just had to buy a battery and make a holder. Hard to find a spot for it
though. Finally mounted it under the rear panel, with the antennae slightly
bent held in place with two plastic hose/cable clamps. ELT in the hollow
under the panel on the left with ant. heading to the right.
He did bring up that I did have it so I never got to the challenge of not
needing it till after phase l was complete.
My feeling was that,,,if I will need one anyway, might as well get one now.
People argue that it's mandatory only if you have a passenger in phase ll,
But what if after I have 8 hours something quits and I land in the woods and
break both my legs, or something else where I can't even crawl. Nice to
know that someone will be looking for you.
walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael D Cuy" <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: ELT's
>
> Guys--- When I got my FAA inspection a few years ago he never asked to see
> my ELT. I didn't have one
> and still don't. Walt, Larry....others John D. who got airworthiness
> certificates recently....what was your experience with this ?
>
> Mike C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave and Connie <dmatthe1(at)rochester.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: After 4 Mos.-- grounded no more |
>
>
>Larry is right. We all needed this past weekend weather for everything
>from washing cars windows
>to flying again finally !
I still can't get the hangar doors open! The only hangar that will open at
01G holds a Pitts. He can get out because he only needs to open up part way.
Dave
N36078 '41 BC-12-65 that hasn't moved since Oct 20
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isablcorky(at)aol.com |
Good thinking Walt. There are many other ways to save money.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doc Mosher <docshop(at)tds.net> |
| Subject: | Antique ignition switch |
Oscar -
If you are really into a Barney Rubble look, Radio Shack has acute little knife
switch. A pair of those on the panel would start conversations, I'm sure.
Now that's antique!
The Brits, on the DH Moth, put a pair of little toggle switches on the outside
of the fuselage, left side, which really controlled the mags. The pilot
also had
switches in the cockpit, but the external switches overrode the cockpit
switches. Guess they figured that the guy swinging the prop ought to have
the last word on whether the prop was hot or not.
Doc Mosher
Oshkosh
USA do
not archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clif <cdawson5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Q&A on internal antenna for wood or |
compositeaircraft
Good points. To bad. It would have been so easy.
Those old guys weren't so dumb,were they?
Of course, now that I'm aproaching that
catagory I'm not so sure....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Q&A on internal antenna for wood or
compositeaircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi Kip,
I would certainly make a serious attempt to make it to any Corvair College
held in the area. I am in Windsor (just across the river from Detroit,
Michigan) and I would certainly try to attend anything held in the Ohio area.
Thanks for Bringing up the subject Kip.
Norm and Adrienne Decou
Adecou@aol
Full set of ribs finished - Ready to start gluing tail feathers.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Piets in "To Fly" |
Howdy again, folks; since I'm on the digest I don't see posts for a day or
so. So... this may be a repeat of something already posted but I got my
current issue of the SAA's publication, "To Fly" in yesterday's mail and
just had to post this for those who haven't seen it yet. And it's always a
good ending to a day to get home and find a flying mag in the mailbox,
isn't it?!
Some really nice pictures (two-page spread, all color pictures) of a Piet
project. It's on the gear (using stock short-wing Piper gear off a
Tri-Pacer if I recall, except the gear are reversed), and has an interesting
brake master cylinder setup for the pilot. Interesting because it mounts
the master cyl. diagonally up the side of the front cockpit with a toe brake
pedal, and uses a rudder bar for the pilot. Also interesting in the way he
provided stops and "guides" for the rudder bar. The setup provides positive
limit stops for the rudder but also prevents foot action from pushing the
rudder bar down. Plenty of interesting details, and I sat peering at the
photos for probably 30-45 minutes while my wife wondered what the heck was
so interesting.
He's also got a step recessed into the port side fuselage aft of the pilot's
seat bottom, and other nifty touches. Photos clearly show a "Mike Cuy"-
style trim lever under the pilot's seat, but no details.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
Pieters;
I don't think I'll be making the trip to Urbana for the SAA fly-in in June
since I'm planning to use my vacation time to drive to Brodhead in July. My
question is, it isn't that far out of my way going up to Brodhead to detour
to Urbana. Is there much to see at Frasca Field when there isn't a fly-in
going on?
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LAWRENCE WILLIAMS" <lnawms(at)msn.com> |
"Pietenpol-List Digest Server"
Mike-
My guy never said BOO about it either. I got the feeling that the FAA position
was more of a "sign this form stating that you have complied with EVERYTHING so
we can never be accused of overlooking anything". ie. Builder, it's all on your
shoulders now.
I DID put an ELT in mine just behind my seat and use a "T" on the antenna connection
to hook up my handheld. The antenna is vertically mounted on an aluminum
inspection plate down there and the antenna is mounted internally just aft of
the aft seat so it's hidden inside the fuselage.
I bought the ELT at Sun-n-Fun last year. Remind me to tell you the story of getting
it through the airport inspection station at Orlando coming back home!
Larry
ps. To whoever asked......my Mag switch is a heavy duty toggle switch mounted outside
the cockpit on the right side of the aft cockpit. (I got the idea from
an old Tiger Moth) It's easy for me to reach either in or out of the cockpit and
it's easy for me to check when I'm hand propping to make sure of it's position.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Don't put a t in the antenna!! |
Larry,
You can't combine antennas when broadcasting! When you broadcast on the
handheld, part of the energy goes right into the ELT's amplifier, heating it
up. Likewise, if the ELT is broadcasting, it is toasting your handheld!
Heat is the bane of all electronic equipment. Electronics will continue to
work unless you let the smoke out. Using a T in the antenna line can let
the smoke out.
Yipes!
The following is quoted from page 148 of Avionics Volume 1 Every Pilot's
Guide to Aviation Electronics by J. M. Ferrara:
"Multiple Use of Antnennas: How about two transmitters operating from one
antenna? This is more difficult, as we cannot simply connect both
transmitters to the antenna. If we did, some of the power from the
transmitter in use would go to the unused transmitter and be wasted in the
form of heat, in addition to the second transmission line disruption of the
characteristics of the antenna system; so that the proper load would not
appear at either transmitter. In order to use the one antenna for two
trnasmitters or two transievers, we would have to have a relay that switched
the antenna from one transmitter to the other when the microphone selector
switch was placed on the desired transmitter."
Disscusion on page 142 of the same book indicates what happens if the proper
antenna load should not appear at the transmitter. When you read this, the
word "load" and "antenna" mean the same thing:
"Let's assume that the load is not perfect. The transmitter will not see
the proper load so that it will not produce the maximum power the antenna is
capable of. In addition, the power that is produced will not all be used by
the load. This means that if we have a poor load (bad antenna), some of the
power generated by the transmitter will be reflected back from the load to
the transmitter, and only some of the power will be used by the load."
Imagine that the transmitter sends a wave out the antenna lead to the tip of
the antenna. Ideally, the energy from that wave goes out into space and the
antenna is 100% efficient. Imagine another case where the wave goes out but
none of the energy in that wave is radiated from the antenna. In this case
the energy is "reflected" back to the transmitter and all the power that was
sent out comes back into the transmitter. The real world exists somewhere
between these two cases but we always strive to achieve the first case. The
efficiency of an antenna system is measured by the Standing Wave Ratio or
SWR. It is the measure of the amount of energy transmitted to the antenna
(the forward power) compared to the amount of energy relected back to the
transmitter (the reflected power). If the forward equals the reflected, the
SWR is infinite. If the antenna is 100% efficient, i.e. no energy is
reflected back, then the SWR is 1. The worst you want to see with your radio
is about 6 and this is waht a bent whip with a minimum ground plane will
give you. With the 5 watts or so you put out and an SWR of 6, about 2.5
watts are being reflected back. Adding the T is only going to make this
worse. Transmitters are not designed to take more than a certain amount of
relected energy. Any energy that is reflected back to the transmitter must
be absorbed by the hardware and this is in the from of heat. Heat will
destroy the transmitter. It might not happen all at once but one day,
either your ELT or the the handheld will not want to work and you will be
scratching your head.
Using a T will cause some of the energy from your handheld to go right into
the ELT, cooking it. In addition, since the load is not correct for the
handheld, it will suffer excessive reflection.
I would advise against the T. You need to go with separate antennas. That
is why airplanes have so many. Combining receiving antennas like two vor
receivers using one NAV antenna is ok if hooked up with a splitter.
chris bobka
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of LAWRENCE
WILLIAMS
Subject: Pietenpol-List: ELT
Mike-
My guy never said BOO about it either. I got the feeling that the FAA
position was more of a "sign this form stating that you have complied with
EVERYTHING so we can never be accused of overlooking anything". ie. Builder,
it's all on your shoulders now.
I DID put an ELT in mine just behind my seat and use a "T" on the antenna
connection to hook up my handheld. The antenna is vertically mounted on an
aluminum inspection plate down there and the antenna is mounted internally
just aft of the aft seat so it's hidden inside the fuselage.
I bought the ELT at Sun-n-Fun last year. Remind me to tell you the story of
getting it through the airport inspection station at Orlando coming back
home!
Larry
ps. To whoever asked......my Mag switch is a heavy duty toggle switch
mounted outside the cockpit on the right side of the aft cockpit. (I got the
idea from an old Tiger Moth) It's easy for me to reach either in or out of
the cockpit and it's easy for me to check when I'm hand propping to make
sure of it's position.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: antique mag switch |
| From: | cat_designs(at)juno.com |
Oscar try this web site. http://www.aviation-antiques.com/index.html He has a bunch
of old instruments and stuff. Check out page 5 under the instrument heading
for a keyed mag switch that look some-what similar to the one in the picture.
If you don't see it on his web page he may be able to find you one. I keep
looking for a 4" tach and altimeter but I can't afford either (about 500+ bucks
each). So like you, I wish I could find a supplier who makes them as replicas
but cheaper.
Also where was the piet in the SSA magazine located or who is the builder?
Chris
Sacramento, CA.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barry Davis" <bed(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Drilling holes in spars |
What is the proper way to drill the spar for strut attach fittings and wing attach
points? Do you drill the fitting first or the spar/
Barry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling holes in spars |
on things like this I try to drill through both at the same time. Secure the
fitting to the spar and drill through both on a drill press.
The second best would be to drill the fitting first, hold it up to the spar and
transfer the center of the hole to the spar then drill the spar.
DJ Vegh
www.imagedv.com/aircamper
----- Original Message -----
From: Barry Davis
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 2:16 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Drilling holes in spars
What is the proper way to drill the spar for strut attach fittings and wing attach
points? Do you drill the fitting first or the spar/
Barry
=
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kip & Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Sport Pilot Clarification |
OK Group,
Here it is, straight from EAA.
The 'Driver's License Medical' is still part of the Sport Pilot proposal.
As I suspected, this whole thing was a rumor arising from the FAA's
rejection of the proposal to waive the medical requirement for the
Recreational Pilot certificate.
The following was copied verbatim from EAA's weekly electronic newsletter:
*******************************************************************************
Sport Pilot Driver's License Medical Unaffected by FAA Rec Pilot Denial
EAA reported last week on www.eaa.org and e-HOT LINE that the FAA denied an
exemption request from both EAA and AOPA "to permit holders of recreational
pilot certificates to conduct flight activities using a current and valid
U.S. driver's license, instead of an FAA-issued medical certificate."
Apparently, based on several calls and e-mails to EAA headquarters, some
EAA members and others are confusing this FAA ruling with the pending sport
pilot/light-sport aircraft rule (SP/LSA). This is not the case. A key
component of SP/LSA is the ability for sport pilots to use a driver's
license as proof of medical fitness to operate a sport pilot-eligible aircraft.
********************************************************************************
Hope this calms everyone's fears.
Kip Gardner
North Canton, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isablcorky(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Clarification |
Not so fast Kip. That's what EAA says but not what FAA said. Reading the FAA
rejection they stated that they were not sure that a sport pilot would not be
required to have a medical. The words " not sure" can mean a lot.
Sorry to be one of non acceptance of this EAA dreaming and polishing but it's
just NOT going to happen, not in my lifetime anyway.
CMC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hubbard, Eugene" <ehubbard(at)titan.com> |
| Subject: | Drilling holes in spars |
Barry,
Make up a drilling jig by welding (or brazing) a long piece of tubing with
an ID that matches your hole size to some rigid "C" shaped piece of metal.
The throat of the "C" has to be deep enough to go around your spar, and the
height has to be more than your material thickness. Some people have
sacraficed C-clamps for this, I welded up the "C" out of Home Depot square
tubing. When the whole thing is cool, cut the tubing out from the "C"
leaving two perfectly aligned segments separated by a space large enough to
put your spar and fittings into.
Drill your fittings first, then clamp up the combination of fittings and
spar exactly where you want them to end up. Shoot a bolt through the tube
on one side of the drilling jig and position the end of the bolt in the
fitting hole. Put your drill on the other side. You now have bolt fittings
and drill exactly lined up. Drill the hole; you'll go through the spar, the
holes in both fittings, and push your bolt out the other end.
During the course of my project, I've made up half a dozen of these jigs in
various sizes and with various hole diameters for a bunch of different
places on the plane. The beauty of this approach is that if you need a
crooked hole to match up your fittings, it will come out crooked in exactly
the right way. Even with a drill press, it is really hard to get everything
lined up just right by measurement alone.
Geme
-----Original Message-----
From: Barry Davis [mailto:bed(at)mindspring.com]
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Drilling holes in spars
What is the proper way to drill the spar for strut attach fittings and wing
attach points? Do you drill the fitting first or the spar/
Barry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lauritz Larsen" <pietlars(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ignition switch |
For what it worth:
I was talking to Chad Wille at Brodhead in 2000; mentioned that I was
looking for an old looking mag switch. He offered to see what was available
at Blakesburg Iowa. He found one and I got the idea that there might be
more. I'm pleased with it, black faced, handle switch, 3 1/4 dia. Cost
about $35 plus shippiing as I recall.
He is from Corning Iowa and does business as St. Croix Aircraft. Don't
have his address or phone no anymore. But he is well known in the Piet world
Hope this helps.
Lou Larsen p.s. started spraying the first coat of Poly-Brush today.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: ignition switch
>
> Does anyone know where to get the "antique style" ignition switches seen
in
> older planes?
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Sport Pilot Clarification |
It is my understanding that the medical part has been FAA approved. Right
now we are working on the ASTM consensus for plane standards.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley(at)qcbc.org or experimenter(at)eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: <Isablcorky(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Sport Pilot Clarification
>
> Not so fast Kip. That's what EAA says but not what FAA said. Reading the
FAA
> rejection they stated that they were not sure that a sport pilot would not
be
> required to have a medical. The words " not sure" can mean a lot.
> Sorry to be one of non acceptance of this EAA dreaming and polishing but
it's
> just NOT going to happen, not in my lifetime anyway.
> CMC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christian Bobka" <bobka(at)charter.net> |
Yes, Wille is well known in the Piet world for selling photocopies of the
plans that Don Pietenpol sells. That is pretty tacky.
Chris Bobka
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lauritz
Larsen
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: ignition switch
For what it worth:
I was talking to Chad Wille at Brodhead in 2000; mentioned that I was
looking for an old looking mag switch. He offered to see what was available
at Blakesburg Iowa. He found one and I got the idea that there might be
more. I'm pleased with it, black faced, handle switch, 3 1/4 dia. Cost
about $35 plus shippiing as I recall.
He is from Corning Iowa and does business as St. Croix Aircraft. Don't
have his address or phone no anymore. But he is well known in the Piet world
Hope this helps.
Lou Larsen p.s. started spraying the first coat of Poly-Brush today.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: ignition switch
>
> Does anyone know where to get the "antique style" ignition switches seen
in
> older planes?
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bert Conoly" <bconoly(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling holes in spars |
Barry, One thing I found helpful was to always drill through the fittings
first with a 3/16 inch drill bit. Then mark your holes on the spar with a
pencil. Then drill through the fittings with the proper size bit. Next
drill through the spars with a 3/16 in bit - using a drill guide to keep the
holes perpendicular to the spar.. I make my own out of 1 inch square
tubing on a drill press (and just abandon the hole after a few holes are
drilled). Next clamp the fittings to the spars with c-clamps and drill back
through the whole contraption (fittings and spar) with the proper size bit.
The 3/16 in "pilot hole" you drilled in the spars will drill out much easier
than a first pass through with the bigger bit and the holes in the fitting
will be less apt to elongate.
This is a little slow but it helped me to keep from wallowing out big holes
in the wood at the same time causing excessive wear on the holes in the
fittings. All my holes turned out very nice and perpendicular with good,
snug holes in the metal.
My two cents...
Bert
----- Original Message -----
From: "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Drilling holes in spars
>
> on things like this I try to drill through both at the same time. Secure
the fitting to the spar and drill through both on a drill press.
>
> The second best would be to drill the fitting first, hold it up to the
spar and transfer the center of the hole to the spar then drill the spar.
>
> DJ Vegh
> www.imagedv.com/aircamper
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Barry Davis
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2003 2:16 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Drilling holes in spars
>
>
> What is the proper way to drill the spar for strut attach fittings and
wing attach points? Do you drill the fitting first or the spar/
> Barry
>
>
> > This email has been scanned for known viruses and made safe for viewing by
Half Price Hosting, a leading email and web hosting provider. For more
information on an anti-virus email solution, visit
<http://www.halfpricehosting.com/av.asp>.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey Wilcox" <CRAIGWILCOX(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling holes in spars |
DJ, Gene, and others all have good ideas. My method has been to drill the
holes in ONE fitting first, the one on the side that you can drill from. I
then use a squaring block to help me keep the bit square, and drill through
the spar (or whatever else) until I hit the second fitting. Then i take
that fitting to the drill press and drill on the started hole.
Do not drill your 4130 fitting at high speed pr without oil - the steel will
harden very quickly and ruin your bit. Slow, steady, oil - works every
time.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BARNSTMR(at)aol.com |
Dear Piet folks,
I looked up the rule on ELTs. It falls under part 91 which is the PILOT's
responsibility, not the DARs. I copied the whole regulation below. Take a
look at 14 CFR 91.207(f). Unless you intend to operate the airplane under
any of the eleven conditions listed as exempt, it is the PILOT's
responsibility to make sure the ELT is installed and operable. It isn't the
DARs responsibility to ensure an ELT is installed. The DAR is responsible to
make sure the airplane is airworthy in accordance with 14 CFR part 21. So,
if an ELT is installed, the DAR will inspect the installation (mounting,
etc.) for airworthiness.
T.Bowden
***************************************
Part 91 GENERAL OPERATING AND FLIGHT RULES
Subpart C--Equipment, Instrument, and Certificate Requirements
Sec. 91.207
Emergency locator transmitters.
(a) Except as provided in paragraphs (e) and (f) of this section, no person
may operate a U.S.-registered civil airplane unless--
(1) There is attached to the airplane an approved automatic type emergency
locator transmitter that is in operable condition for the following
operations, except that after June 21, 1995, an emergency locator transmitter
that meets the requirements of TSO-C91 may not be used for new installations:
(i) Those operations governed by the supplemental air carrier and commercial
operator rules of parts 121 and 125;
(ii) Charter flights governed by the domestic and flag air carrier rules of
part 121 of this chapter; and
(iii) Operations governed by part 135 of this chapter; or
(2) For operations other than those specified in paragraph (a)(1) of this
section, there must be attached to the airplane an approved personal type or
an approved automatic type emergency locator transmitter that is in operable
condition, except that after June 21, 1995, an emergency locator transmitter
that meets the requirements of TSO-C91 may not be used for new installations.
(b) Each emergency locator transmitter required by paragraph (a) of this
section must be attached to the airplane in such a manner that the
probability of damage to the transmitter in the event of crash impact is
minimized. Fixed and deployable automatic type transmitters must be attached
to the airplane as far aft as practicable.
(c) Batteries used in the emergency locator transmitters required by
paragraphs (a) and (b) of this section must be replaced (or recharged, if the
batteries are rechargeable)--
(1) When the transmitter has been in use for more than 1 cumulative hour; or
(2) When 50 percent of their useful life (or, for rechargeable batteries, 50
percent of their useful life of charge) has expired, as established by the
transmitter manufacturer under its approval.
The new expiration date for replacing (or recharging) the battery must be
legibly marked on the outside of the transmitter and entered in the aircraft
maintenance record. Paragraph (c)(2) of this section does not apply to
batteries (such as water-activated batteries) that are essentially unaffected
during probable storage intervals.
(d) Each emergency locator transmitter required by paragraph (a) of this
section must be inspected within 12 calendar months after the last inspection
for--
(1) Proper installation;
(2) Battery corrosion;
(3) Operation of the controls and crash sensor; and
(4) The presence of a sufficient signal radiated from its antenna.
(e) Notwithstanding paragraph (a) of this section, a person may--
(1) Ferry a newly acquired airplane from the place where possession of it was
taken to a place where the emergency locator transmitter is to be installed;
and
(2) Ferry an airplane with an inoperative emergency locator transmitter from
a place where repairs or replacements cannot be made to a place where they
can be made.
No person other than required crewmembers may be carried aboard an airplane
being ferried under paragraph (e) of this section.
(f) Paragraph (a) of this section does not apply to--
[ (1) Before January 1, 2004, turbojet-powered aircraft; ]
(2) Aircraft while engaged in scheduled flights by scheduled air carriers;
(3) Aircraft while engaged in training operations conducted entirely within a
50-nautical mile radius of the airport from which such local flight
operations began;
(4) Aircraft while engaged in flight operations incident to design and
testing;
(5) New aircraft while engaged in flight operations incident to their
manufacture, preparation, and delivery;
(6) Aircraft while engaged in flight operations incident to the aerial
application of chemicals and other substances for agricultural purposes;
(7) Aircraft certificated by the Administrator for research and development
purposes;
(8) Aircraft while used for showing compliance with regulations, crew
training, exhibition, air racing, or market surveys;
(9) Aircraft equipped to carry not more than one person; and
(10) An aircraft during any period for which the transmitter has been
temporarily removed for inspection, repair, modification, or replacement,
subject to the following:
[(11) On and after January 1, 2004, aircraft with a maximum payload capacity
of more than 18,000 pounds when used in air transportation.]
(i) No person may operate the aircraft unless the aircraft records contain an
entry which includes the date of initial removal, the make, model, serial
number, and reason for removing the transmitter, and a placard located in
view of the pilot to show "ELT not installed."
(ii) No person may operate the aircraft more than 90 days after the ELT is
initially removed from the aircraft.
Amdt. 91-265, Eff. 12/22/2000
****************************
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doc Mosher <docshop(at)tds.net> |
| Subject: | Piet photos in "To Fly" magazine |
About the two-page color spread showing the Piet under construction in the
Spring 2003 issue of SAA's "To Fly" magazine - - -
The photos were (as the article says) by Bob O'Hara. Bob, along with
Bill Piper, Jim Howe, and Scott Herring, are building this Piet in Georgetown
California. Today they started spraying the color - Cub yellow and maroon.
The "Pietenpol Owner Directory" carries a poem by Bob O'Hara, which he
wrote in 1972.
I love to fly off a grass field, in small planes, fabric covered . . .
With good and enthusiastic friends who thrill at each takeoff
and savor each skill filled landing . . .
I long to smell the varnished wood, hot oil, and combusted fuel,
the grass under my wheels.
I long to look down on the twisty creeks
and tawny hills in the summertime . . .
I long to wave at the groundbound folks and send down
a blessing of good wishes . . .
I long for the freedom of slow flight
where no electronic voices fill my ears . . .
I long to sit beneath the wings and talk to fellow aviators
about the wonder of it all.
Doc Mosher
Oshkosh USA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clif <cdawson5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Drilling holes in spars |
I have a jig similiar to Eugene's but out of copper pipe.
Go to www.mykitplane.com then photo gallery,
then Clif's pictures. Eugine's would be a stiffer frame
but this picture will give you a good idea of what the
thing does and how it works.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Barry Davis" <bed(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Drilling holes in spars
>
> What is the proper way to drill the spar for strut attach fittings and
wing attach points? Do you drill the fitting first or the spar/
> Barry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
"Fishnet"
| Subject: | Halilooooooya, the field is dry |
Went to the field this afternoon and the snow is virtually all gone, the slop and
water from yesterday is all gone, once you walk past the crumbly tarmac to
the higher turf in the center and grass cross runway, it all seems pretty solid.
Have to check with the owner so he won't be chasing me with arms flailing cause
he thinks I'm putting ruts in the field.
Ain't life grand?
Sorry, but just went back and read this, and realized that I sound like a spoiled
pilot that can't wait to play. But here we are , literally on the "eve of
distruction" as a Veteran, I think back to the sacrifice, and that some paid
the ultimate price for freedom. (More than one friend of mine is a name on the
"Wall" in D.C.).
I just hope we get through this mess in the middle east.
" All we are saying, is give peace a chance" (Beatles )
I will quietly step down off the soapbox now,
walt
NX140DL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
Pat (and others)-
To add to what you've already posted about using Scotchbrite pad material
for buzzing out the inside of intake tubing and such, William grabbed some
and used it (during the great Alamo City Corvair Jr. College) when he saw
that I hadn't adequately cleaned up the bores where the pushrod tubes go
into my cases and heads. He "speared" a chunk of Scotchbrite on a small
spade bit chucked into the air drill (electric drill works fine too), doused
it with WD-40, ran the wetted pad in and out of the bores with the drill,
and quickly got the bores shiny clean so the pushrod tube O-rings will seal
well.
Can we hear any more useful Scotchbrite tips (maybe it's good for removing
warts? Or getting stains off of Dan's nice Dickies overalls?) But
seriously, I think I saw where someone used a piece of the coarser
Scotchbrite cut to a disk shape, glued to the end of something they chucked
into their drill, to burnish aluminum.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kip & Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Halilooooooya, the field is dry |
"Fishnet"
>
>
>Went to the field this afternoon and the snow is virtually all gone, the
>slop and water from yesterday is all gone, once you walk past the crumbly
>tarmac to the higher turf in the center and grass cross runway, it all
>seems pretty solid.
>Have to check with the owner so he won't be chasing me with arms flailing
>cause he thinks I'm putting ruts in the field.
>
>Ain't life grand?
>
>Sorry, but just went back and read this, and realized that I sound like a
>spoiled pilot that can't wait to play. But here we are , literally on the
>"eve of distruction" as a Veteran, I think back to the sacrifice, and
>that some paid the ultimate price for freedom. (More than one friend of
>mine is a name on the "Wall" in D.C.).
>I just hope we get through this mess in the middle east.
>" All we are saying, is give peace a chance" (Beatles )
>
>I will quietly step down off the soapbox now,
>walt
>NX140DL
Walt,
Don't apologize! I won't have even a chance of another flying lesson until
after April 15 - Forrest Barber has closed the field until then - it's MUD
SEASON in Ohio.
As for the soapbox, I'd guess that there are more than a few opinions on
this list. Personally, I think this war is a distraction from the real
business of solving the problems of terrorism & I seriously question Bush's
motives.
That said, I hope the best for everyone of our guys & gals who's over
there. Living in a Navy town, I had many friends, including my best friend,
actively involved in Gulf 1 & they all came home OK. I wouldn't want
anything less for those there now - they've been given a job & I hope they
do it quickly & well.
But this is supposed to be about Piets & flying, so I'll get off the
soapbox too. It's amazing how many problems melt away, at least for a bit,
when you are 1000 ft AGL....
Regards,
Kip Gardner
North Canton, OH
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Ragan" <lragan(at)hotmail.com> |
A disk of Scotchbrite, glued to the flat end of an old valve, works great for burnishing
when inserted into a drill.
Larry Ragan
Jacksonville, Fl.
lragan(at)hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratril" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
Hey all
I am looking to order a VHF handheld. Looking in ACS, I see some models with VOR's
in addition to Com.
I was looking at adding an external antenna on the fuse belly. Does anybody use
this model with Nav/Com? Can you add an external antenna? With just the standard
antenna do you have a satisfactory range? I'm not sure I even need that
feature, I have a small GPS.
Dick N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Goff" <kgoff(at)arkansasusa.com> |
| Subject: | Any Piet builders near NW Arkansas? |
Hi Folks,
Anyone out there based near Fayetteville, Arkansas?
Thanks,
Ken Goff
Farmington, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Any Piet builders near NW Arkansas? |
In a message dated 3/19/03 11:13:12 PM Central Standard Time,
kgoff(at)arkansasusa.com writes:
Hi Folks,
Anyone out there based near Fayetteville, Arkansas?
Thanks,
Ken Goff
Farmington, Arkansas >>
Ken,
My plane is in Benton KS, which is about 10 miles NE of Wichita KS. I'm in
the middle of a firewall forward retrofit. Nose cowling fuel tank is done
and pre-fit (10.7 gal. !!!). Stainless steel firewall almost done and
pre-fit, engine mount done and pre-fit, beginning final assembly of
Continental A65. I also added a glove box door to the panel of the front
cockpit. I still have to build the cowling, and prop. I'll be out there
this weekend, wether permitting, for final assembly of the tank, firewall,
engine mount, and start on the cowling.
Chuck Gantzer
NX770CG
Wichita, KS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | del magsam <farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com> |
Hi Richard
I had just the setup that you mentioned in my tcraft.
mine was a sportys handheld with a vor hooked up to an
external 25.00 antenna. I tryed the vor once flying to
winona and it worked good. but I never used it after
that, because my trusty fleet farm $99 gps took me
everywhere I wanted to go.
Del
--- Richard Navratril wrote:
> Navratril"
>
> Hey all
> I am looking to order a VHF handheld. Looking in
> ACS, I see some models with VOR's in addition to
> Com.
> I was looking at adding an external antenna on the
> fuse belly. Does anybody use this model with
> Nav/Com? Can you add an external antenna? With
> just the standard antenna do you have a satisfactory
> range? I'm not sure I even need that feature, I
> have a small GPS.
> Dick N.
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> latest messages.
> List members.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
>
Digests:http://www.matronics.com/digest/pietenpol-list
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Del-New Richmond, Wi
"farmerdel(at)rocketmail.com"
http://platinum.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronnie Wagner" <wlrdlr(at)starband.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Any Piet builders near NW Arkansas? |
Ken,
I'm building a long fuse Piet with (all woodwork done) a 90 hp Franklin,
and atv wheels with the new style landing gear, It's setting on the gear and
I'm working on the firewall so I can finish mounting the engine.
I don't have very much contact with these guys but there is one in:
Huntington with a corvair, about 35 miles south of Ft. Smith.
Big Cedar OK, old style, not sure of engine.
and it may be you but I thought there was someone who replied to the list
from Fayettville?
any way I'm in Mena, AR about 100 mile south of Ft.Smith.
I haven't contributed to the list but their are some good guys here with a
wealth of Info. (Thanks fella's)
Ronnie Wagner
over 1/2 way there.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Goff" <kgoff(at)arkansasusa.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Any Piet builders near NW Arkansas?
>
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> Anyone out there based near Fayetteville, Arkansas?
>
> Thanks,
> Ken Goff
> Farmington, Arkansas
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gower <ggower_99(at)yahoo.com> |
Well, could be the perfect person to sell "copies" of old looking
ignition switches :-) :-)
Saludos
Gary Gower
--- Christian Bobka wrote:
>
>
> Yes, Wille is well known in the Piet world for selling photocopies of
> the
> plans that Don Pietenpol sells. That is pretty tacky.
>
> Chris Bobka
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> Lauritz
> Larsen
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: ignition switch
>
>
>
>
> For what it worth:
>
> I was talking to Chad Wille at Brodhead in 2000; mentioned that I
> was
> looking for an old looking mag switch. He offered to see what was
> available
> at Blakesburg Iowa. He found one and I got the idea that there might
> be
> more. I'm pleased with it, black faced, handle switch, 3 1/4 dia.
> Cost
> about $35 plus shippiing as I recall.
>
> He is from Corning Iowa and does business as St. Croix Aircraft.
> Don't
> have his address or phone no anymore. But he is well known in the
> Piet world
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Lou Larsen p.s. started spraying the first coat of Poly-Brush
> today.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: ignition switch
>
>
>
> >
> > Does anyone know where to get the "antique style" ignition switches
> seen
> in
> > older planes?
> >
> > Oscar Zuniga
> > San Antonio, TX
> > mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> > website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://platinum.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gadd, Skip" <Skip.Gadd(at)ssa.gov> |
| Subject: | Any Piet builders near NW Arkansas? |
Ken,
The wife and I are going on our third inspection trip to Altus Arkansas,40
miles east of Fort Smith. We are looking at Winfield Airpark. Grass runway,
looks like a great place to base a Piet. If all goes well we hope to buy a
lot and move there about June next year.
Good to hear there is some Piet action in the general area.
Skip, still in Atlanta for 1 year, 2 months, and 11 days, not that I'm
counting.
>Anyone out there based near Fayetteville, Arkansas?
>Thanks,
>Ken Goff
>Farmington, Arkansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979(at)naples.net> |
Dick,
I have an external on the belly. Have a King KX99. Tried the VOR once to
see how it works. Never use it. I suppose it would be a backup if the GPS
gave out. Costs about $100 more for the VOR.
There is a 24" square plate of aluminum on the inside of the belly for a
ground plane. Have lots of range. Works good.
On the one I am building I want to put an internal antenna just to avoid one
more thing that takes away from the 30s look.
Coming to SnF?
Ted
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Navratril" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: radios
>
> Hey all
> I am looking to order a VHF handheld. Looking in ACS, I see some models
with VOR's in addition to Com.
> I was looking at adding an external antenna on the fuse belly. Does
anybody use this model with Nav/Com? Can you add an external antenna? With
just the standard antenna do you have a satisfactory range? I'm not sure I
even need that feature, I have a small GPS.
> Dick N.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratril" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
Ted
Yes, I'll be at SNF a day or two early, camping in the same area, hopefully.
Thanks for the input on the radio. I was all set to order it, but decided
to wait to see what is at the Fly Mart at SNF first.
Catch you later
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979(at)naples.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: radios
>
> Dick,
>
> I have an external on the belly. Have a King KX99. Tried the VOR once to
> see how it works. Never use it. I suppose it would be a backup if the
GPS
> gave out. Costs about $100 more for the VOR.
>
> There is a 24" square plate of aluminum on the inside of the belly for a
> ground plane. Have lots of range. Works good.
>
> On the one I am building I want to put an internal antenna just to avoid
one
> more thing that takes away from the 30s look.
>
> Coming to SnF?
>
> Ted
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Navratril" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net>
> To:
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: radios
>
>
>
> >
> > Hey all
> > I am looking to order a VHF handheld. Looking in ACS, I see some models
> with VOR's in addition to Com.
> > I was looking at adding an external antenna on the fuse belly. Does
> anybody use this model with Nav/Com? Can you add an external antenna?
With
> just the standard antenna do you have a satisfactory range? I'm not sure
I
> even need that feature, I have a small GPS.
> > Dick N.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clif <cdawson5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: UV test of Latex Paint |
Why was black chosen in the first place?
It never did make sense to me. Clif
>
> I finally finished the results and article concerning the test of latex
paint's ability to block UV light.
> >
> Here is a list of the conclusions from the test
> > v This is a matter open for discussion, but the practice of using black
paint as the base/sealing coat on fabric to block UV light may not be the
best practice. White, in theory, would be a better paint for that. White
paint has a high amount of Titanium Dioxide (TiO2), which is highly
reflective. Black paint, on the other hand, gets its ?color? from Carbon
Black primarily. Kirk
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | 7-Day Matronics List Browse Enhancement... |
Dear Listers,
Neil Hulin of the Zenith-List at Matronics wrote to me suggesting I add a
"total of available messages" column to the 7-Day List Browse Main page,
and it seemed like a great idea! I've made the modifications and I think
many will find it extremely helpful as well. Have a look at the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/listbrowse/
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin...
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LAWRENCE WILLIAMS" <lnawms(at)msn.com> |
"Pietenpol-List Digest Server"
| Subject: | Aviation history |
Corky-
If you REALLY want to get you eyes opened about the Wright Bros. and U.S. Gov't
try to get a copy of "History by Contract". I know it's been out of print for
a long time but, what an expose about the politics of "History". Get it if you
can!
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John_Duprey(at)vmed.org |
| Subject: | Pietenpol Project on Ebay |
03/24/2003 08:55:28 AM
Not mine....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2408503820&category=26428
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | spar/rib jigging |
Hello, Pieters-
In looking at the wing cross-section in CAD and with the supplied full-scale
rib drawing from Mr. Pietenpol, I'm missing something. Taking the bottom of
the front wing spar as a reference and using the face of the spar as
vertical and perpendicular to the reference, if you keep the faces of both
spars parallel to each other it seems that the bottom of the aft spar is
about 3/16" higher than reference to maintain the airfoil profile given.
I need to go back to Mike Cuy's video and photos to take a look at his wing
construction and jigging, but when laying out the wings, does that mean that
the aft spar is jigged about 3/16" higher than the front spar when the ribs
are slid on? The ribs are constructed with the spar slots parallel to each
other and if the spars are jigged with their bottom edges at the same level,
the ribs would have to deform slightly to keep the spars parallel.
One other, minor issue- the original plans show the fuel tank in the center
section to be about 10 gal. but in CAD it doesn't seem to have that much
volume. Has anyone built a tank to the profile shown in the plans and
checked the volume?
Oscar Zuniga (keeping my political views to myself, but everyone is entitled
to my opinion!)
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walter evans" <wbeevans(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: spar/rib jigging |
Oscar,
I can only vouch for the tank size. built the three piece wing to plans,
and built the tank to the shape it shows in the little sketch. It fits
nicely in the spot and it is exactly 10 gals. this is with me not counting
on my tank top being perfect, so I ran about 1/2" under the top contour. A
top layer of very thin aluminum (Home Depot) was added on top for final
contour. Even could have squeezed some more out of the size if I needed.
walt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: spar/rib jigging
>
> Hello, Pieters-
>
> In looking at the wing cross-section in CAD and with the supplied
full-scale
> rib drawing from Mr. Pietenpol, I'm missing something. Taking the bottom
of
> the front wing spar as a reference and using the face of the spar as
> vertical and perpendicular to the reference, if you keep the faces of both
> spars parallel to each other it seems that the bottom of the aft spar is
> about 3/16" higher than reference to maintain the airfoil profile given.
>
> I need to go back to Mike Cuy's video and photos to take a look at his
wing
> construction and jigging, but when laying out the wings, does that mean
that
> the aft spar is jigged about 3/16" higher than the front spar when the
ribs
> are slid on? The ribs are constructed with the spar slots parallel to
each
> other and if the spars are jigged with their bottom edges at the same
level,
> the ribs would have to deform slightly to keep the spars parallel.
>
> One other, minor issue- the original plans show the fuel tank in the
center
> section to be about 10 gal. but in CAD it doesn't seem to have that much
> volume. Has anyone built a tank to the profile shown in the plans and
> checked the volume?
>
> Oscar Zuniga (keeping my political views to myself, but everyone is
entitled
> to my opinion!)
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: spar/rib jigging |
| From: | "D.Dale Johnson" <dd5john(at)juno.com> |
HI
I built a fuel tank to the rib profile with a flat bottom.
It holds 15 Gal with 1 quart unusable.
That was for a float type gas gauge.
Dale.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | brakes installed |
Put in about 2 hours tonight. Installed my brakes.
I purchased Grove Aircraft wheels and brakes. Got them from AS&S for about
$600. If you are not aware of Grove wheels and brakes, they are pretty much
Cleveland Clones. Magnesium wheels and machined aluminum dual piston
calipers and .25" thick steel discs. Overkill for a Piet I guess, but they
are gonna keep my Air Camper stopped while I do full power run-ups from a
110hp Corvair!
All I need to do now to complete the brake system is run lines from the
calipers to the brake cylinders.... a fairly simple task (nothing's ever
"fairly simple" huh?!)
Some of you have been asking for recent pics.... sorry. I promise by
Wednesday I will have them up on my site.... pics of the fuselage combing
and brakes.
DJ Vegh
N74DV
www.imagedv.com/aircamper
Mesa, AZ
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LAWRENCE WILLIAMS" <lnawms(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Center section cut-out |
Just a quick post to pass along some actual info from carefully researched flight
data.
Mr. Pietenpol said that center-section cut-outs would affect climb performance.
In my Piet I have a "flop" from F&G and up until yesterday it had been unsecured
ie. free to "float" while in flight. I noticed that, while flying, I could
reach up and pull it down with one finger and that would result in a noticeable
nose-up tendency. Yesterday I put a catch on it so it would stay down (aligned
with the rest of the wing T.E.) and it occurred to me that not only did the
Piet climb better, but I didn't have to use nearly as much aft stick in straight
and level flight.
Based on that highly controlled and carefully conducted experiment, my conclusion
is that Bernie was right AGAIN!! If you have a center-section cut-out or an
unsecured flop, you are sacrificing lift/climb performance.
All this might not be such a big deal to you who are using the "big iron" but for
us in the model "A" brotherhood, every little bit helps.
Larry
ps. the flop only trailed up about 1/2" prior to installing the latch on it.
pps. I just got my wheels back from Buchanan's. I might have to re-do my W&B!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hubbard, Eugene" <ehubbard(at)titan.com> |
| Subject: | Pietenpol project on eBay |
It's actually a pretty odd collection of instruments in the front cockpit.
As if they're the ones that didn't fit in back. I'm also wondering about
the rear cockpit placard saying "...without a certificate of airworthiness"
Maybe it's (and the passenger prohibition placard) are a Canadian
requirement during the test phase.
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wizzard187(at)aol.com |
Pieters, I know it is not the time of the year to be reading books but I
just finished reading, "No Parachute" by Arthur Gould Lee. If one reads his
letters and diary of flying Southwith Pups and Camels at 20,000 feet in
combact against the Red Baron it will make flying your Piet much easier.
It is a great book and gives his daily experiences of 1916 and 17. Also
trys to explain why paarchutes were not used.
Ken Conrad in springtime Iowa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Navratril" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
Another very good one is "Wind sand and Stars". Early pilots carrying mail
across Europe to North Africa.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: <Wizzard187(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: A Book
>
> Pieters, I know it is not the time of the year to be reading books but
I
> just finished reading, "No Parachute" by Arthur Gould Lee. If one reads
his
> letters and diary of flying Southwith Pups and Camels at 20,000 feet in
> combact against the Red Baron it will make flying your Piet much easier.
> It is a great book and gives his daily experiences of 1916 and 17.
Also
> trys to explain why paarchutes were not used.
> Ken Conrad in springtime Iowa
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | updated pics and log entry |
I just put up the 2 most recent entires into my construction log. Pics of
the fuse combing and brakes are now up.
http://www.imagedv.com/aircamper/log/GN1-log-003.htm
DJ Vegh
N74DV
www.imagedv.com/aircamper
Mesa, AZ
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clif <cdawson5854(at)shaw.ca> |
Don't forget Antoine de Saint-Exupery's other two
books, Night Flight and Flight To Arras.
The philosopher waxes poetic.
And then there's Song Of The Sky by Guy Murchie.
All good reads. Clif
>
> Another very good one is "Wind sand and Stars". Early pilots carrying
mail
> across Europe to North Africa.
> Dick> > > >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gadd, Skip" <Skip.Gadd(at)ssa.gov> |
| Subject: | Center section cut-out |
Larry,
Did you build new hubs, what was the problem with the old ones?
Hope to see you at Sun & Fun.
Skip
>pps. I just got my wheels back from Buchanan's. I might have to re-do my
W&B!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BARNSTMR(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: worse than a woman........ |
Gee. I think I am going to figure out a way to afford a full-swivel
tailwheel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PhillIJM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: worse than a woman........ |
Black
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TomTravis(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: worse than a woman........ |
Well, I'm greatly relieved to see that nobody on this list has suggested
mauve or taupe or any of those other "non-colors". There are only a limited
number of coIors anyway. There is red, white, blue, green, yellow and pale
amber. Everything else is a variation such as,"light red, dark red. etc." I
think Martha Stewart would agree that day-glo adds a nice touch to any hangar
decor.
Tom Travis
do not achive
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Carmen" <jlcarmen(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: worse than a woman........ |
Nobody paint anything Neon Green That's my Piet's color (will be)
John
----- Original Message -----
From: <TomTravis(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: worse than a woman........
>
> Well, I'm greatly relieved to see that nobody on this list has suggested
> mauve or taupe or any of those other "non-colors". There are only a
limited
> number of coIors anyway. There is red, white, blue, green, yellow and pale
> amber. Everything else is a variation such as,"light red, dark red. etc."
I
> think Martha Stewart would agree that day-glo adds a nice touch to any
hangar
> decor.
>
>
> Tom Travis
>
> do not achive
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | nice brake setup on ebay right now |
check these.... Matco brakes. They are the hefty Matco version for use on 1.25"
axles.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item2408262193&category26439
Dj Vegh
www.imagedv.com/aircamper
=
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: worse than a woman........ |
In a message dated 3/26/03 8:24:35 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov writes:
> My dominant colors are
> navy and white, with a bit of orange trim........SO I'm scratching my head
> trying to figure out what color spray paint to pickup at Wal Mart to give
> this thing an Earl Sheib paint job. Any ideas ? Pilots are notorious
for
> generating some of the most revolting paint schemes in all the world, so
> any help from you guys who have a good eye for this kind of thing would be
> appreciated.
I'd pick the Navy, would match the tail surfaces and underbelly color ? I'd
think thats what I'd do.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | cabane bolt edge clearance |
Keep in mind I am building a GN-1 which has a different method of attaching
cabanes to wing center section.
I'm having a bit of dilemma. I am using Skytec extruded aluminum
streamlined struts for cabanes and lift struts. The struts are hollow cored
with flats on the insides to allow a 3-6" piece of 3/4" x 3/4" solid
aluminum bar to be slipped in which allows you to terminate the ends by
having an inch or so of that bar stick out past the strut. You then bolt the
strut to the structure with that piece of bar.
Problem is, a 3/4" x3/4" solid aluminum bar only allows me an AN3 bolt
because of edge clearance issues. As I recall, the rule is 2D from center
to edge (where D is diameter of hole). 2D of an AN3 is 3/8" which allows
proper clearance, but I feel I really need an AN4 to attach the tops of the
cabanes to the wing spar center section fittings.
Here's what I can do:
1. Drill out to 1/4" for an AN4 anyway and disregard the edge clearance
recommendations.
2. Taper a 1x1" bar to 3/4 x 3/4 and use an AN4 in the 1" portion (this
method may look wierd)
3. Use AN3's to bolt the tops of the cabanes to the wing spar fittings.
(will 4 AN3's do the job of holding the wing center section in place?)
4. use 3/4" x 3/4" .080 wall 4130 steel instead of solid aluminum bar and
drill for AN4's
5. use 3/4 x 3/4" solid steel bar instead of aluminum and drill for AN4's (a
heavy solution)
No. 4 & 5 makes me wonder if edge clearance guidelines are different for
steel than aluminum...... are they??
I need advice!
DJ Vegh
www.imagedv.com/aircamper
Mesa, AZ
N74DV
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Carmen" <jlcarmen(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cabane bolt edge clearance |
DJ
I would make one hole 1/4 and the other 3/16. larger one inboard, and
make both bolts NAS1103. These bolts are under shear thus 1/4 and 3/16 NAS
should be plenty strong enough. A NAS bolt will allow you to tighten more
thus allow more binding force to the aluminum bar and strut. make the hole
close tolerance .247 and .186( use a reamer to final the hole). and use
chamfered washers on the heads. And if you can get a piece of 7075-T6
aluminum bar, it will be stronger than 2024-T6.
How's this?
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cabane bolt edge clearance
>
> Keep in mind I am building a GN-1 which has a different method of
attaching
> cabanes to wing center section.
>
> I'm having a bit of dilemma. I am using Skytec extruded aluminum
> streamlined struts for cabanes and lift struts. The struts are hollow
cored
> with flats on the insides to allow a 3-6" piece of 3/4" x 3/4" solid
> aluminum bar to be slipped in which allows you to terminate the ends by
> having an inch or so of that bar stick out past the strut. You then bolt
the
> strut to the structure with that piece of bar.
>
> Problem is, a 3/4" x3/4" solid aluminum bar only allows me an AN3 bolt
> because of edge clearance issues. As I recall, the rule is 2D from center
> to edge (where D is diameter of hole). 2D of an AN3 is 3/8" which allows
> proper clearance, but I feel I really need an AN4 to attach the tops of
the
> cabanes to the wing spar center section fittings.
>
> Here's what I can do:
>
> 1. Drill out to 1/4" for an AN4 anyway and disregard the edge clearance
> recommendations.
>
> 2. Taper a 1x1" bar to 3/4 x 3/4 and use an AN4 in the 1" portion (this
> method may look wierd)
>
> 3. Use AN3's to bolt the tops of the cabanes to the wing spar fittings.
> (will 4 AN3's do the job of holding the wing center section in place?)
>
> 4. use 3/4" x 3/4" .080 wall 4130 steel instead of solid aluminum bar and
> drill for AN4's
>
> 5. use 3/4 x 3/4" solid steel bar instead of aluminum and drill for AN4's
(a
> heavy solution)
>
>
> No. 4 & 5 makes me wonder if edge clearance guidelines are different for
> steel than aluminum...... are they??
>
> I need advice!
>
> DJ Vegh
> www.imagedv.com/aircamper
> Mesa, AZ
> N74DV
>
>
> This email has been scanned for known viruses and made safe for viewing by
Half Price Hosting, a leading email and web hosting provider. For more
information on an anti-virus email solution, visit
<http://www.halfpricehosting.com/av.asp>.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | cabane bolt edge clearance |
DJ,
I would go ahead and use the AN4 bolt. The 2D edge distance is primarily a
consideration for riveted joints, where the spreading rivet can cause
cracking of the base metal if too close to the edge. I pulled out my old
rivet installation standard from my days in the aerospace business and found
that for 1/4" rivets the standard edge distance was .50", but the
"Engineering Minimum" was .40" for material .064" thick and thicker, and the
"Inspection Minimum" was .37" for those conditions. The Engnieering Minimum
was the minimum value that could be specified on the drawing without having
a special signoff by the stress analysis group, but the inspection minimum
allowed the shop to screw up a little bit and go a little below the minimum
engineering standard. Bear in mind that this was for supersonic jet
fighters. I think it will be OK for a Pietengrega.
As John Carmen pointed out, these bolts are loaded in shear (double shear,
actually) and I would be concerned about the aluminum piece shearing with a
3/16" hole in it. Since the aluminum is considerably softer than the steel
bolt, the bolt would likely wallow a hole in the aluminum and allow you wing
to clunk up and down every time you hit a little turbulence. An AN4 bolt
offers 33% more shear area than an AN3.
Good Luck,
Jack
Keep in mind I am building a GN-1 which has a different method of attaching
cabanes to wing center section.
I'm having a bit of dilemma. I am using Skytec extruded aluminum
streamlined struts for cabanes and lift struts. The struts are hollow cored
with flats on the insides to allow a 3-6" piece of 3/4" x 3/4" solid
aluminum bar to be slipped in which allows you to terminate the ends by
having an inch or so of that bar stick out past the strut. You then bolt the
strut to the structure with that piece of bar.
Problem is, a 3/4" x3/4" solid aluminum bar only allows me an AN3 bolt
because of edge clearance issues. As I recall, the rule is 2D from center
to edge (where D is diameter of hole). 2D of an AN3 is 3/8" which allows
proper clearance, but I feel I really need an AN4 to attach the tops of the
cabanes to the wing spar center section fittings.
Here's what I can do:
1. Drill out to 1/4" for an AN4 anyway and disregard the edge clearance
recommendations.
2. Taper a 1x1" bar to 3/4 x 3/4 and use an AN4 in the 1" portion (this
method may look wierd)
3. Use AN3's to bolt the tops of the cabanes to the wing spar fittings.
(will 4 AN3's do the job of holding the wing center section in place?)
4. use 3/4" x 3/4" .080 wall 4130 steel instead of solid aluminum bar and
drill for AN4's
5. use 3/4 x 3/4" solid steel bar instead of aluminum and drill for AN4's
(a
heavy solution)
No. 4 & 5 makes me wonder if edge clearance guidelines are different for
steel than aluminum...... are they??
I need advice!
DJ Vegh
www.imagedv.com/aircamper
Mesa, AZ
N74DV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kevin Holcomb" <ksholcomb(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cabane bolt edge clearance |
Here is a bit of background that may help you. The Aerospace industry
requires substantiation of structures, and to show something is strong
enough you need to know it's material properties. Years ago the US
government did the industry a huge favor by developing a handbook on
materail properties for metals (MIL-HDBK-5.) This handbook gave bearing
data for 1.5D and 2D edge distance. It is of course conservative to use the
2D values if you have a larger ED. However, if you want to use something
less than 1.5D in a design you have to come up with your own material
properties. As it is much more accepted, cheaper and quicker to use the
published ones the industry demands at least 1.5D. At less than 1.5D there
will of course be some strength, but there is not an accepted chart
documenting what that strength must be. Thus virtually anything designed
will require at least 1.5D. This is where the 1.5D rule came from. It
should also be noted that this practice will keep you out of trouble as the
material properties drop off rapidly as you get closer than 1.5D.
For initial design, most manufacturers start with at least 2D. This is
because you can upsize the bolts at least once and still have at least your
1.5D provided of course the hole was drilled where it was supposed to be.
In fact some manufacturers use 2D+.06 as an initial ED requirement as that
allows for the bolts to be upsized if the hole is miss-drilled, or if it is
later determined that the bolts need to be stronger. The +.060 is two
+/-.03 tolerances (one incase the edge is cut short and one in case the hole
is drilled short). These rules exist to reduce scrap rates. The simple
facts are that in the manufacturing industry to be profitable you cannot
avoid to throw away much of what you build. To cut scrap you design things
such that there is margin for imperfections in the manufacturing process (it
is not reasonable to expect that every hole will be located perfectly and
drilled perfectly.)
If you decide to use 1.5D, you need to first do the calculations and
carefully consider your design to make sure that it will be adequate. Also,
when fabricating your parts be very careful as this is 1.5D as drilled
(measured from the center of the hole to the edge of the part). Which means
you must not oversize the hole and it must be located where you need it to
be. My advice is use at least 1.5D+.032 and be very careful.
My advice, when possible build per print. At the very least the design on
the print has been tried before which often means more to me than a shelf
full of engineering models.
Kevin
----- Original Message -----
From: "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cabane bolt edge clearance
>
> Keep in mind I am building a GN-1 which has a different method of
attaching
> cabanes to wing center section.
>
> I'm having a bit of dilemma. I am using Skytec extruded aluminum
> streamlined struts for cabanes and lift struts. The struts are hollow
cored
> with flats on the insides to allow a 3-6" piece of 3/4" x 3/4" solid
> aluminum bar to be slipped in which allows you to terminate the ends by
> having an inch or so of that bar stick out past the strut. You then bolt
the
> strut to the structure with that piece of bar.
>
> Problem is, a 3/4" x3/4" solid aluminum bar only allows me an AN3 bolt
> because of edge clearance issues. As I recall, the rule is 2D from center
> to edge (where D is diameter of hole). 2D of an AN3 is 3/8" which allows
> proper clearance, but I feel I really need an AN4 to attach the tops of
the
> cabanes to the wing spar center section fittings.
>
> Here's what I can do:
>
> 1. Drill out to 1/4" for an AN4 anyway and disregard the edge clearance
> recommendations.
>
> 2. Taper a 1x1" bar to 3/4 x 3/4 and use an AN4 in the 1" portion (this
> method may look wierd)
>
> 3. Use AN3's to bolt the tops of the cabanes to the wing spar fittings.
> (will 4 AN3's do the job of holding the wing center section in place?)
>
> 4. use 3/4" x 3/4" .080 wall 4130 steel instead of solid aluminum bar and
> drill for AN4's
>
> 5. use 3/4 x 3/4" solid steel bar instead of aluminum and drill for AN4's
(a
> heavy solution)
>
>
> No. 4 & 5 makes me wonder if edge clearance guidelines are different for
> steel than aluminum...... are they??
>
> I need advice!
>
> DJ Vegh
> www.imagedv.com/aircamper
> Mesa, AZ
> N74DV
>
>
> This email has been scanned for known viruses and made safe for viewing by
Half Price Hosting, a leading email and web hosting provider. For more
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<http://www.halfpricehosting.com/av.asp>.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Carmen" <jlcarmen(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cabane bolt edge clearance |
Jack and DJ
I agree that two 1/4 inch bolts not cause any problems as Jack indicates,
but I feel that using a 1/4 and then a 3/16 above it will distribute the
load better and eliminate a stress riser. We do have two struts and not
much of a moment arm at the attach points and predictable dynamic loads,
thus distribution of load to the strut should be primary consideration, over
brute strength.
DJ, I think Jack's idea or mine would work just fine. Just make the hole
close tolerance to eliminate any "wallowing"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: cabane bolt edge clearance
>
> DJ,
>
> I would go ahead and use the AN4 bolt. The 2D edge distance is primarily
a
> consideration for riveted joints, where the spreading rivet can cause
> cracking of the base metal if too close to the edge. I pulled out my old
> rivet installation standard from my days in the aerospace business and
found
> that for 1/4" rivets the standard edge distance was .50", but the
> "Engineering Minimum" was .40" for material .064" thick and thicker, and
the
> "Inspection Minimum" was .37" for those conditions. The Engnieering
Minimum
> was the minimum value that could be specified on the drawing without
having
> a special signoff by the stress analysis group, but the inspection minimum
> allowed the shop to screw up a little bit and go a little below the
minimum
> engineering standard. Bear in mind that this was for supersonic jet
> fighters. I think it will be OK for a Pietengrega.
>
> As John Carmen pointed out, these bolts are loaded in shear (double shear,
> actually) and I would be concerned about the aluminum piece shearing with
a
> 3/16" hole in it. Since the aluminum is considerably softer than the
steel
> bolt, the bolt would likely wallow a hole in the aluminum and allow you
wing
> to clunk up and down every time you hit a little turbulence. An AN4 bolt
> offers 33% more shear area than an AN3.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Jack
>
>
> Keep in mind I am building a GN-1 which has a different method of
attaching
> cabanes to wing center section.
> I'm having a bit of dilemma. I am using Skytec extruded aluminum
> streamlined struts for cabanes and lift struts. The struts are hollow
cored
> with flats on the insides to allow a 3-6" piece of 3/4" x 3/4" solid
> aluminum bar to be slipped in which allows you to terminate the ends by
> having an inch or so of that bar stick out past the strut. You then bolt
the
> strut to the structure with that piece of bar.
> Problem is, a 3/4" x3/4" solid aluminum bar only allows me an AN3 bolt
> because of edge clearance issues. As I recall, the rule is 2D from center
> to edge (where D is diameter of hole). 2D of an AN3 is 3/8" which allows
> proper clearance, but I feel I really need an AN4 to attach the tops of
the
> cabanes to the wing spar center section fittings.
> Here's what I can do:
> 1. Drill out to 1/4" for an AN4 anyway and disregard the edge
clearance
> recommendations.
> 2. Taper a 1x1" bar to 3/4 x 3/4 and use an AN4 in the 1" portion
(this
> method may look wierd)
> 3. Use AN3's to bolt the tops of the cabanes to the wing spar
fittings.
> (will 4 AN3's do the job of holding the wing center section in place?)
> 4. use 3/4" x 3/4" .080 wall 4130 steel instead of solid aluminum
bar and
> drill for AN4's
> 5. use 3/4 x 3/4" solid steel bar instead of aluminum and drill for
AN4's (a
> heavy solution)
>
>
> No. 4 & 5 makes me wonder if edge clearance guidelines are different for
> steel than aluminum...... are they??
> I need advice!
> DJ Vegh
> www.imagedv.com/aircamper
> Mesa, AZ
> N74DV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | clif <cdawson5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: cabane bolt edge clearance |
Why not use a 1" X 3/4" bar, chamfer the 1" sides to slide
past the arc, front and rear, of the streamline. You could
make it 11/4 or 1 1/2 " if you wanted.
I just bought a piece of 6061-T6 3/4" X 4" for $2/lb ( US
$1.35)
And what about that Fortal aluminum?
www.mousebar.com
Clif.- Never fly anything with wings traveling faster than
the fuselage.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Carmen" <jlcarmen(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: cabane bolt edge clearance
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
I'll be there Friday and Saturday.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gene Rambo
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: SNF
Are we all going to be able to meet at the Piet forum tent again this year?
I want to make sure I get together with everyone. I am going down Thursday,
coming home Sunday.
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cinda Gadd" <csfog(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | FW: SNF and Harry Hooper |
----- Original Message -----
From: Cinda Gadd
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: SNF
Ted and other listers,
I just got off the phone with Harry Hooper's
sister. He is in ICU Room 4, Medical University of S Carolina Medical Center,
171 Ashley Ave, Charleston SC 29426. Harry has had some very serious internal
bleeding and as result a couple heart attacks. He can't talk on the phone but
can get cards. I plan to have a card at Sun Fun for all you guys to sign
and get him a T-shirt, which I hope to drop off to him on the way back from
S F.
Harry was planning to go to S F as late as last
weekend, but of course he can't now. His name is on the second Piet forum Sunday
at 10:00 AM. I don't know what will happen with that time slot.
Maybe we can do the same thing we did
last year and just have a very informal thing where 4 or 6 guys take
10 minutes each, or maybe we could just use it as a place and time to meet
other Piet people.
I will be leaving S F tomorrow, Monday and
be looking for the camp site in the general area Burt had his camper last
year.
See you there,
Skip
PS Stop by the wood shop, there should just about
always be at least one Piet person there.
P PS Since Harry will not be there, there will be
at least one volunteer vacancy in the wood tent, any takers?
I noticed there are two Piet forums. Is there a
difference?
Ted
--- Skip Cinda Gadd
--- csfog(at)earthlink.net
--- Skip Cinda Gadd
--- csfog(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TomTravis(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FW: SNF and Harry Hooper |
Is the wood tent going to be the official gathering place?
Tom Travis
Flying into GIF on Tuesday.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com> |
what ever happened with this?? I was wanting to buy some of the late John
Grega's stuff. Is it still available?
DJ Vegh
GN-1
N74DV
www.raptoronline.com
Mesa, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "jim vydra" <jvydra(at)mcleodusa.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: John Grega
>
> My father in law, John Grega, developer of the GN-! air camper and long
time supplier of plans advice and parts, passed away in November. Among the
tons (literally) of items he left is his last project. It is a nearly
completed R/C model of his airplane.
>
> if you have any interest in this or any of the estimated 1000 model
airplane plans, old magazines, etc., let me know. As soon as we sort it out
i will get back to you with particulars.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim Vydra
> Springfield, MO
>
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | cabanes installed :-) |
Got all four cabanes installed today. Thanks to those who provided me
advice on what to do about my edge clearance issues.
check the latest entry for pics.
http://www.imagedv.com/aircamper/log/GN1-log-003.htm
DJ Vegh
N74DV
www.raptoronline.com
Mesa, AZ
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979(at)naples.net> |
| Subject: | Re: FW: SNF and Harry Hooper |
Skip,
Count on me again to help with the 10 AM Sunday slot.
Drive carefully.
Ted
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cinda Gadd" <csfog(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: FW: SNF and Harry Hooper
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: Cinda Gadd
>
>
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: SNF
>
>
> Ted and other listers,
>
> I just got off the phone with Harry Hooper's
> sister. He is in ICU Room 4, Medical University of S Carolina Medical
Center,
> 171 Ashley Ave, Charleston SC 29426. Harry has had some very serious
internal
> bleeding and as result a couple heart attacks. He can't talk on the phone
but
> can get cards. I plan to have a card at Sun Fun for all you guys to sign
> and get him a T-shirt, which I hope to drop off to him on the way back
from
> S F.
>
> Harry was planning to go to S F as late as last
> weekend, but of course he can't now. His name is on the second Piet forum
Sunday
> at 10:00 AM. I don't know what will happen with that time slot.
>
> Maybe we can do the same thing we did
> last year and just have a very informal thing where 4 or 6 guys take
> 10 minutes each, or maybe we could just use it as a place and time to meet
> other Piet people.
>
> I will be leaving S F tomorrow, Monday and
> be looking for the camp site in the general area Burt had his camper last
> year.
>
> See you there,
>
> Skip
>
>
> PS Stop by the wood shop, there should just about
> always be at least one Piet person there.
>
> P PS Since Harry will not be there, there will be
> at least one volunteer vacancy in the wood tent, any takers?
>
>
> I noticed there are two Piet forums. Is there a
> difference?
>
>
> Ted
>
> --- Skip Cinda Gadd
>
> --- csfog(at)earthlink.net
>
>
> --- Skip Cinda Gadd
>
> --- csfog(at)earthlink.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Cooper" <blugoos1(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | GN1 Cabane struts |
Pieters & GN1ers: My partner, Tom Schildt & I are working on an incomplete GN1
project in beautiful South Louisiana (Corkey's back yard) which we purchased two
years ago. I saw on page 92 of the March, 2003 issue of Sport Aviation a picture
of a Piet built by a man named Mel (Skip) Marquette, Bristol, Tennessee
in which he "increased the center section 8 inches a la an Alexander Eagle Rock.
--- to reduce the turbulence between the lower wing and the fuselage. Plus,
it --- makes it a lot easier to get in and out of --- ." It looks like he raised
the entire wing 8 inches, and it certainly looks easier to get in and out
of (very important for a 76 year old). Does anyone have any comments on this modification?
I'd sure like to get hold of Mel Marquette, but so far have been
unsuccessful through EAA. Also, does anyone know what an Alexander Eagle Rock
is? Thank you, Jim Cooper
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com> |
Did you guys see what the Mayor of Chicago did to Meigs field last night? Under
cover of darkness with no warning he tore up the runway.....
Sad Day for GA....
http://www.chicago.tribune.com/
http://www.eaa.org
I think those who disagree with this nonsense ought to drop a line to AOPA, EAA
or FAA.
The Mayor of Chicago hates GA and has now finally proved it.
DJ
=
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Hubbard, Eugene" <ehubbard(at)titan.com> |
| Subject: | cabane bolt edge clearance |
DJ,
I'm a bit late on the cabane discussion, but I have a couple of comments
that nobody's mentioned yet.
1) Work out the stresses on the cabane struts. If it's anything like the
Piet, you'll find out there isn't much. What there is is mainly compression
down the spar. The reason for this is that the lift struts are mounted much
closer to the center of the wing than in most high-wing planes.
2) I personally wouldn't do anything close tolerance at that point.
Pietenpol has a note on his plans (Hoopman 1934) to the effect that the
cabanes should rattle. The reason is that there's a lot of bending moment
at the joints, and it could (will?) fatigue. If the joints are loose and
the wires take up the bending moment, nothing bad happens.
This is not professional advice--it comes from high school physics books.
But the numbers are interesting.
Gene
-----Original Message-----
From: DJ Vegh [mailto:aircamper(at)imagedv.com]
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cabane bolt edge clearance
Keep in mind I am building a GN-1 which has a different method of attaching
cabanes to wing center section.
I'm having a bit of dilemma. I am using Skytec extruded aluminum
streamlined struts for cabanes and lift struts. The struts are hollow cored
with flats on the insides to allow a 3-6" piece of 3/4" x 3/4" solid
aluminum bar to be slipped in which allows you to terminate the ends by
having an inch or so of that bar stick out past the strut. You then bolt the
strut to the structure with that piece of bar.
Problem is, a 3/4" x3/4" solid aluminum bar only allows me an AN3 bolt
because of edge clearance issues. As I recall, the rule is 2D from center
to edge (where D is diameter of hole). 2D of an AN3 is 3/8" which allows
proper clearance, but I feel I really need an AN4 to attach the tops of the
cabanes to the wing spar center section fittings.
Here's what I can do:
1. Drill out to 1/4" for an AN4 anyway and disregard the edge clearance
recommendations.
2. Taper a 1x1" bar to 3/4 x 3/4 and use an AN4 in the 1" portion (this
method may look wierd)
3. Use AN3's to bolt the tops of the cabanes to the wing spar fittings.
(will 4 AN3's do the job of holding the wing center section in place?)
4. use 3/4" x 3/4" .080 wall 4130 steel instead of solid aluminum bar and
drill for AN4's
5. use 3/4 x 3/4" solid steel bar instead of aluminum and drill for AN4's (a
heavy solution)
No. 4 & 5 makes me wonder if edge clearance guidelines are different for
steel than aluminum...... are they??
I need advice!
DJ Vegh
www.imagedv.com/aircamper
Mesa, AZ
N74DV
This email has been scanned for known viruses and made safe for viewing by
Half Price Hosting, a leading email and web hosting provider. For more
information on an anti-virus email solution, visit
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <aircamper(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: GN1 Cabane struts |
I raised mine 2". I too heard about the 8" lift. To me it seems excessive.
I'm not sure how that will affect flight. Seems like power increases will caus
February 21, 2003 - March 31, 2003
Pietenpol-Archive.digest.vol-db