Pietenpol-Archive.digest.vol-ej
March 01, 2005 - March 28, 2005
and wonder if this will do any good. I have had three different carbs on
and they all act the same.
Still looking for a counter clockwise tach. Has anyone used one of the new
electronic tach on a mag that they really like. Ken Conrad, Long Grove Iowa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pilots4ETW(at)wmconnect.com |
| Subject: | Lost Foam Gas Tank |
I'm going to build a gas tank for my center section using the lost foam
method. I'm savvy with fiberglass and epoxy but need some info about how to join
the foam parts. Is there a glue for joining the foam walls? And is it eaten away
when the foam is lost?
Thanks,
Roy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
Stainless or galvanized steel works well. Aluminum is a no,no! Putting fibra-flax
between the steel and the wood is also recommended. You used to be able to
use asbestos to prevent the heat transfer from the steel to the wood but that
is not PC anymore.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: TBYH(at)aol.com
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 6:05 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Firewall
My Piet's basic fuselage structure is finished and I'm writing to ask about the
firewall. What do most Pieters cover their firewall with, i.e. I assume steel
or aluminum? Do you put some of that fireproof fabric in between the metal
and the plywood firewall bulkhead? I'm building a Model A powered Piet so mine
also has the "shelf" area behind the engine...would appreciate any advice.
Many thanks!
Fred B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Johnson" <ddjohn(at)earthlink.net> |
You can't use aluminum the FAA won't accept it. It has to low melting point.
I used stainless steel that I engin turned. It looks pretty good.
Gal steel wil work and the FAA will accept it.
Dale Mpls,
----- Original Message -----
From:
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Firewall
My Piet's basic fuselage structure is finished and I'm writing to ask about the
firewall. What do most Pieters cover their firewall with, i.e. I assume steel
or aluminum? Do you put some of that fireproof fabric in between the metal and
the plywood firewall bulkhead? I'm building a Model A powered Piet so mine also
has the "shelf" area behind the engine...would appreciate any advice.
Many thanks!
Fred B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Hill" <jeff2dogs(at)hotmail.com> |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeff Hill" <jeff2dogs(at)hotmail.com> |
DNA: do not archive
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <djv(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cabane struts |
Cabanes are the talk of the group lately
I used Carlson Aircraft aluminum struts. www.sky-tek.com
About 75% cheaper than 4130 with only a small penalty in weight.
DJ Vegh
www.imagedv.com/aircamper
N74DV
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Hill
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 8:14 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cabane struts
How many guys have used the steel streamlined tubing from Aircraft Spruce (or
from Wicks) for the cabane struts? This is the stuff that is rather expensive
now.
Jeff in cool Texas
Forums. http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phillips, Jack" <jphillip(at)alarismed.com> |
That's what I used, but I bought it from Dillsburg. Much cheaper and
much faster service.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cabane struts
How many guys have used the steel streamlined tubing from Aircraft
Spruce (or from Wicks) for the cabane struts? This is the stuff that is
rather expensive now.
Jeff in cool Texas
see
Matronics
Forums.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Ragan" <lragan(at)hotmail.com> |
DNA: do not archive
Its-Bogus: do not forward to list
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Markle" <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cabane struts |
Why not laminate your cabanes from wood (I used light maple and mahoghany) and
sandwich in some carbon fiber? Incredibly light (mine are around 12-15 ounces
each) and strong.
Someone once did the math and said each of the 4 cabanes on the typical Air Camper
(if there IS such a thing....) only had about 50 pounds of lift (tension)
to handle. I don't know how accurate that is, but a 1" X 2" wooden cabane (even
without the carbon fiber inlay) will easily handle that.....
Just a thought....
JM
(I have a set I made from black walnut/maple (doesn't everyone build 3 sets of
everything before they have the one they'll use????) that I'll probably take to
Brodhead this summer.......)
----- Original Message -----
From: Phillips, Jack
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 10:11 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: cabane struts
That's what I used, but I bought it from Dillsburg. Much cheaper and much faster
service.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cabane struts
How many guys have used the steel streamlined tubing from Aircraft Spruce (or
from Wicks) for the cabane struts? This is the stuff that is rather expensive
now.
Jeff in cool Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <djv(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: cabane struts |
it's most certainly more than 50#. I did the calcs a while back when I bought
my aluminum struts. I came up to a few hundred pounds at 1G (remember they
are at about a 60=B0 angle)
If planning for a +5G load you're looking at over 1,000#
Still... wood works and looks cool too.... so long as they are built right... especially
the ends.
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Markle
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: cabane struts
Why not laminate your cabanes from wood (I used light maple and mahoghany) and
sandwich in some carbon fiber? Incredibly light (mine are around 12-15 ounces
each) and strong.
Someone once did the math and said each of the 4 cabanes on the typical Air Camper
(if there IS such a thing....) only had about 50 pounds of lift (tension)
to handle. I don't know how accurate that is, but a 1" X 2" wooden cabane (even
without the carbon fiber inlay) will easily handle that.....
Just a thought....
JM
(I have a set I made from black walnut/maple (doesn't everyone build 3 sets of
everything before they have the one they'll use????) that I'll probably take
to Brodhead this summer.......)
----- Original Message -----
From: Phillips, Jack
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 10:11 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: cabane struts
That's what I used, but I bought it from Dillsburg. Much cheaper and much
faster service.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cabane struts
How many guys have used the steel streamlined tubing from Aircraft Spruce (or
from Wicks) for the cabane struts? This is the stuff that is rather expensive
now.
Jeff in cool Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Markle" <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
<001001c51f60$668411e0$0564a8c0@rdci.az.home.com>
| Subject: | Re: cabane struts |
Cabanes...not lift struts....yes, agreed, the lift struts are MUCH more than 50
pounds.....
----- Original Message -----
From: DJ Vegh
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: cabane struts
it's most certainly more than 50#. I did the calcs a while back when I bought
my aluminum struts. I came up to a few hundred pounds at 1G (remember they
are at about a 60=B0 angle)
If planning for a +5G load you're looking at over 1,000#
Still... wood works and looks cool too.... so long as they are built right...
especially the ends.
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Markle
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: cabane struts
Why not laminate your cabanes from wood (I used light maple and mahoghany)
and sandwich in some carbon fiber? Incredibly light (mine are around 12-15 ounces
each) and strong.
Someone once did the math and said each of the 4 cabanes on the typical Air
Camper (if there IS such a thing....) only had about 50 pounds of lift (tension)
to handle. I don't know how accurate that is, but a 1" X 2" wooden cabane
(even without the carbon fiber inlay) will easily handle that.....
Just a thought....
JM
(I have a set I made from black walnut/maple (doesn't everyone build 3 sets
of everything before they have the one they'll use????) that I'll probably take
to Brodhead this summer.......)
----- Original Message -----
From: Phillips, Jack
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 10:11 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: cabane struts
That's what I used, but I bought it from Dillsburg. Much cheaper and much
faster service.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cabane struts
How many guys have used the steel streamlined tubing from Aircraft Spruce
(or from Wicks) for the cabane struts? This is the stuff that is rather expensive
now.
Jeff in cool Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phillips, Jack" <jphillip(at)alarismed.com> |
DJ -
I think you are talking Lift struts, while Jim is talking Cabanes. The cabanes
see very little lift load in flight - essentially just whatever lift the centersection
develops because the lift struts attach at almost the center of the
main wing panels and carry virtually all the lift loads generated by the wings.
However, the roll wires put a considerable compression load on the cabanes,
and any rolling maneuvers put loads on them eiither tensile or compressive, depending
one which side of the airplane and which direction it is rolling.
I can also tell you from personal experience - when you are making a forced landing
and hit a dirt bank with the wingtip, the centersection and cabane struts
do feel some stress. My roll wires are now slack on one side from the fittings
at the top of the cabanes bending due to the load imposed on them. I'm going
to have to straighten those fittings as part of the rebuild of NX899JP. Having
finally assessed all the damage incurred, I can truthfully say, this is a
STOUT airframe. I would hate to think what this repair would have cost to a
Cessna. As it is, I'm getting it back in the air for somewhere around $1,000
and $475 of that is in heat treating the new axle.
Jack Phillips
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of DJ Vegh
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: cabane struts
it's most certainly more than 50#. I did the calcs a while back when I bought
my aluminum struts. I came up to a few hundred pounds at 1G (remember they
are at about a 60=B0 angle)
If planning for a +5G load you're looking at over 1,000#
Still... wood works and looks cool too.... so long as they are built right... especially
the ends.
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim <mailto:jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> Markle
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: cabane struts
Why not laminate your cabanes from wood (I used light maple and mahoghany) and
sandwich in some carbon fiber? Incredibly light (mine are around 12-15 ounces
each) and strong.
Someone once did the math and said each of the 4 cabanes on the typical Air Camper
(if there IS such a thing....) only had about 50 pounds of lift (tension)
to handle. I don't know how accurate that is, but a 1" X 2" wooden cabane (even
without the carbon fiber inlay) will easily handle that.....
Just a thought....
JM
(I have a set I made from black walnut/maple (doesn't everyone build 3 sets of
everything before they have the one they'll use????) that I'll probably take to
Brodhead this summer.......)
----- Original Message -----
From: Phillips, <mailto:jphillip(at)alarismed.com> Jack
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: cabane struts
That's what I used, but I bought it from Dillsburg. Much cheaper and much faster
service.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cabane struts
How many guys have used the steel streamlined tubing from Aircraft Spruce (or from
Wicks) for the cabane struts? This is the stuff that is rather expensive now.
Jeff in cool Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <djv(at)imagedv.com> |
<001001c51f60$668411e0$0564a8c0@rdci.az.home.com>
<000e01c51f61$ddba25a0$9202010a@FAMILY>
| Subject: | Re: cabane struts |
ooops my bad
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Markle
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 12:56 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: cabane struts
Cabanes...not lift struts....yes, agreed, the lift struts are MUCH more than
50 pounds.....
----- Original Message -----
From: DJ Vegh
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: cabane struts
it's most certainly more than 50#. I did the calcs a while back when I bought
my aluminum struts. I came up to a few hundred pounds at 1G (remember
they are at about a 60=B0 angle)
If planning for a +5G load you're looking at over 1,000#
Still... wood works and looks cool too.... so long as they are built right...
especially the ends.
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Markle
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: cabane struts
Why not laminate your cabanes from wood (I used light maple and mahoghany)
and sandwich in some carbon fiber? Incredibly light (mine are around 12-15
ounces each) and strong.
Someone once did the math and said each of the 4 cabanes on the typical Air
Camper (if there IS such a thing....) only had about 50 pounds of lift (tension)
to handle. I don't know how accurate that is, but a 1" X 2" wooden cabane
(even without the carbon fiber inlay) will easily handle that.....
Just a thought....
JM
(I have a set I made from black walnut/maple (doesn't everyone build 3 sets
of everything before they have the one they'll use????) that I'll probably
take to Brodhead this summer.......)
----- Original Message -----
From: Phillips, Jack
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 10:11 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: cabane struts
That's what I used, but I bought it from Dillsburg. Much cheaper and much
faster service.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cabane struts
How many guys have used the steel streamlined tubing from Aircraft Spruce
(or from Wicks) for the cabane struts? This is the stuff that is rather expensive
now.
Jeff in cool Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan Loegering" <danl(at)odayequipment.com> |
Getting ready to purchase some wood and start cutting. I have decided to start
on the wing ribs as my first project and was wondering if anyone out there has
a rough guestimate on how much T-88 I should start out with? Would a quart
kit suffice, or should I go for the 1/2 gallon right off the bat... Now just
waiting for the plans to show up!
Dan Loegering
Fargo, ND
________________________________________________________________________________
Dan, I went for the smaller bottles, it makes it easier to handle and
keeps it fresh.
Jack Textor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Glue question |
Dan, I went with the quart bottles. The stuff goes
pretty quickly, but not so much on the ribs. They are
also easier to handle. I'm on my 4th set now. There
is a tip I found very helpful in dispensing the stuff.
I bought some 2 ton epoxy from Walmart ($1.97 each)
and when I used the glue and emptied the syringes the
stuff comes in, I cleaned the syringes out with
acetone real well and then dried them with a clean
cloth inside and then fill them with the T-88. I used
several of them at one time. This makes dispensing
the glue (1:1) real easy. I also used the blister
pack (and every blister pack I could get my hands on)
to mix the stuff. Hope this helps. I also made my
glue sticks out of short pieces of capstrip sanded
down on the bench sander to a chisel shape. This
worked real well in spreading the glue.
Doc
rough guestimate on how much T-88 I
> should start out with? Would a quart kit suffice,
> or should I go for the 1/2 gallon right off the
> bat...
>
> Dan Loegering
> Fargo, ND
>
>
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gbowen(at)ptialaska.net" <gbowen(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | Lost Foam Gas Tank |
I use hot melt glue to hold the various foam blocks together. You can hot
wire cut or hand shape the blocks. The glue will dissolve just like the
polystryrene foam with a solvent wash after you've cut the mold apart, for
rebonding.
Gordon Bowen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gbowen(at)ptialaska.net" <gbowen(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | Fiberglass Gas Tank Question |
A good tight weave like 7781 will make a good tank, plus it's a satin weave
which makes the compound curves and corners more easily formed. I think
any epoxy will work, but Derakane (epoxy based vinyl ester) has a better
chemical resistance plus you work it just like polyester or bondo, (just
add a dab of mek peroxide to the resin) it kicks off fast. EZ-Poxy 10 plus
EZ-83 hardener has a track record of over 35 years usage as a glass/epoxy
gas tank in canard-pusher Rutan type aircraft.
Gordon Bowen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walt evans" <wbeevans(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glue question |
Dan,
I would go with the quart kit. T-88 does have a shelf life, in as much as
after awhile the clear (not amber) does start to thicken.
I only used 2 quart kits for my Piet.
I didn't like to waste (even though all my joints had a nice fillet at the
connecting pieces)
The best way to mix T-88 is on a saucer. Cut the nozzles with the same size
opening at the tip , and squeeze the same diameter bead , the same length
for both A&B. Guys waste alot by mixing in a cup. Only time I used a cup
was when I glued the ply to the fuse side or bottom, where you need lots of
glue.
Best application stick is a tongue depressor. Buy a package, or go to a
local pharmacy and get them for about a dime apiece.
Grab the round end in your teeth, about half way across, bite down , and
pull the other part away from your face. Now you have 2 applicater sticks.
Every time you're done using it, wipe off the tip. When it becomes "round"
on the end, throw it out.
(probably TMI, but I miss building)
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Loegering" <danl(at)odayequipment.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Glue question
>
>
> Getting ready to purchase some wood and start cutting. I have decided to
start on the wing ribs as my first project and was wondering if anyone out
there has a rough guestimate on how much T-88 I should start out with?
Would a quart kit suffice, or should I go for the 1/2 gallon right off the
bat... Now just waiting for the plans to show up!
>
> Dan Loegering
> Fargo, ND
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pilots4ETW(at)wmconnect.com |
In a message dated 3/1/2005 8:21:46 PM Central Standard Time,
ddjohn(at)earthlink.net writes:
> You can't use aluminum
FAA won't allow on a "certificated" airplane, but still a very bad idea on an
experimetal as well.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pilots4ETW(at)wmconnect.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Gas Tank Question |
I'm using the West system and ordered my supplies from Aircraft Spruce. I'm
building one fuel tank (center section) using the lost foam method. A second
tank in the center section (smaller) will be used for baby oil so I can
out-smoke Chuck Gantzer. My fuselage tank will be built not from lost foam, but
from a
female (waxed) mold. I already had access to the gas tank mold and am too
lazy to build one from scratch for the center section tanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pilots4ETW(at)wmconnect.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lost Foam Gas Tank |
Gordon:
Many thanks for the tips on the tanks (not to be confused with tip tanks:)
Roy
Starting on the tanks tomorrow.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alexms1(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Glue question |
Dan,
I looked at prices and it was $25.00 for a quart or $75.00 for the gallon. That
seemed like a good saving so I went with the gallon.. Trouble was, it came
in two half gallon containers. Pouring from them to measure small quantities
was a pain. I have since ordered a quart and it comes in two pint containers.
Much better to pour and measure from.
Food for thought.
Alex Sloan
-------------- Original message --------------
>
>
> Getting ready to purchase some wood and start cutting. I have decided to start
> on the wing ribs as my first project and was wondering if anyone out there has
a
> rough guestimate on how much T-88 I should start out with? Would a quart kit
> suffice, or should I go for the 1/2 gallon right off the bat... Now just
> waiting for the plans to show up!
>
> Dan Loegering
> Fargo, ND
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Dan,
I looked at prices and it was $25.00 for a quart or $75.00 for the gallon.
That seemed like a good saving so I went with the gallon.. Trouble
was, it came in two half gallon containers. Pouring from them to measure
small quantities was a pain. I have since ordered a quart and it comes
in two pint containers. Much better to pour and measure from.
Food for thought.
Alex Sloan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cabane struts |
One thing to keep in mind when using aluminum struts, is that aluminum is
much less forgiving than steel. Aluminum requires accurate holes, and NO nicks
or scratches. After put into service, nicks or scratches (stress risers) could
render the part unservicable, and un-airworthy. If a bolt should loosen up,
and woller out the hole slightly, the part is unservicable, and un-airworthy.
For these reasons, I strongly suggest the use of steel.
Chuck Gantzer
NX770CG
Smoke 'em, if ya got 'em !!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Glue question |
I have found that small plastic squeeze bottles (4 to 8 oz?) work very well.
The kind I use have a snap-on cap that is attached to the bottle so you
can't lose it.
I invested in a small digital scale (iBal 201) and mix the West System epoxy
by weight. These scales cost about $100, are used by ammo reloaders, and
weigh to .01 gram. They have a capacity of 200 grams. I typically only use 5
to 10 grams. Just put in the resin, get the weight, multiply by 1.2, and add
hardener up to that value. Its very accurate and repeatable for small
amounts. (I can't help it if I'm an engineer!)
BTW epoxy has a very long shelf life. Especially if you keep it sealed in
the can. By using the squeeze bottles, you don't have to open the can very
often.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N321TX(at)wmconnect.com |
| Subject: | Safety? Fiberglass gas tanks & Static Electricity |
I've successfully dissipated and prevented static electricity in photographic
labs for many years by mixing Downey Fabric Softener to water at a 50/50 mix,
and then spraying carpeted areas in and around the lab. Here in the
Southwest, on a cold-dry winter day, we can darned near arc weld with static after
walking around on a dry surface and many rolls of films have been ruined when
spooling film out of cassette in a darkroom. The static can bee seen on the film
after development. The Downey/water method nearly eliminates the ionic charge,
thus the reason your socks don't cling after coming out of the dryer when
treated with Downey. (Ask any woman who wears nylon stockings... Downey is a must
on man-made textiles.)
When fueling my Cherokee in the boondocks, I've also used my "formula" for
spraying down the surface of the wings, gas caps, my shoes and the area where I
stand when transferring the gas, prior to fueling an airplane with plastic
cans. (The cans are sprayed before fueling as well and allowed a minute or so to
dry... The back of the vehicle is also sprayed before loading a plastic can!
Try gassing an airplane at the landing strip in/at Wall Drug Store in South
Dakota... ain't gonna happen unless you go into town for mogas. Also, Custer's
Last Stand! No gas at the field, but a convenience store 1 mile away...
Sorry, but sometimes remote fueling is an evil necessity for us who live and
fly off of fields not having a fuel source, such as a ranch or in places in
the Dakotas That's why I always carried my small spray bottle of Downy/Water in
my airplane.
I'm more concerned about fiberglass gas tanks in my Pietenpol though.
Fiberglass makes for a great attractant for static electricity! I wonder if there
is
an additional way to enhance safety when adding gas to a wooden airplane
having fiberglass tanks? I'm about to build my fiberglass gas tank and I thought
of adding a small copper wire to the aluminum filler neck, then to the weldable
flange, running the wire down to a low spot on the fuselage where I could
connect to a ground source (probably a small copper shaft driven into the
ground...)
Obviously it's wise to AVOID using plastic cans for fueling an airplane, but
sometimes we don't have a choice.
Does anybody have any information about grounding tips and way to avoid
static when fueling a wooden airplane having a fiberglass tank in the boondocks?
Thanks,
Sterling Brooks
Knot-2-Shabby Airport & Texas Longhorn Cattle Ranch
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glue question |
| From: | "Hodgson, Mark O" <mhodgson(at)bu.edu> |
I mixed on paper plates, but I've been collecting those polyethylene
lids that they use to cover oatmeal and other paper-cylinder containers
and I'm going to switch to them for the rest of the plane if they work
better, which I think they should. I would recommend some kind of
syringe for measuring (used plastic children's medicine type, one for
hardener and one for resin, which you can get at a Wal-Mart-type place);
with the equal-length-bead method you have to be careful that the beads
are exactly equal widths and I for one had a problem with that;
tongue-depressors or popsicle-sticks can be gotten at hobby shops, and
sand them down to get a pointed/straight edge for applying glue; Walt's
rip-with-the-teeth method sounds good too, with no sawdust residue
either. One mild caution: T-88 adheres a little bit to vinyl--I
covered my jig base with a clear vinyl sheet and some residue built up
over time at the sites with the heaviest glue, which needed a little
extra cleaning work when I removed the rib from the jig each time.
Mark Hodgson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cory Emberson" <bootless(at)earthlink.net> |
Engines)
| Subject: | Builder Feedback Requested for Kitplanes Magazine (Alternative |
Engines)
Hello everyone,
I've subscribed (quietly) to this list for a little more than a year, and
would like to hear from you if you're a builder who has successfully
installed and flown an alternative engine in your plane. I'm writing a
builder's roundup for Kitplanes magazine, and am looking for an installation
that's flown for a minimum of 150 hours, and is currently flying.
For the builders that we profile, the magazine will also be able to pay you
$100 for the write-up. We would also need at least 2-3 good photos,
including a close-up of the engine and an overall shot of the aircraft.
Additional photos would be great, and all photos will be returned. If you
have digital photos, it is very important that they be high-resolution, at
least 300 dpi.
I have a list of specific areas to address if you'd like to participate, but
we can handle that off-line.
Please feel free to contact me off-line at:
cory @ lightspeededit.com (remove the spaces - my anti-spam protection)
or reply offline to my list email address.
I have a rather short deadline, so if you're able to contact me as soon as
you're able, I would greatly appreciate it!
Thank you so much!
best,
Cory Emberson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gbowen(at)ptialaska.net" <gbowen(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | Safety? Fiberglass gas tanks & Static Electricity |
Fiberglass/epoxy tanks have been used for over 30 yrs in Rutan type planes.
All the fuelers want to attach the grounding strap to any metal part of the
composite landing gear, (ain't gonna do a thing). So we canardians/aka
Pieties have exchanged 1000's of emails via the user group about how to
ground during fueling. The original plans for canard types calls for a
metal (like the kind you ground the engine with) woven strap, attached to
the fuel cap, dangled down into the fuel. You attach the ground wire from
the fueling station to it. It kinda sloshes around with the fuel while
you're in flight. Some builders have build into their laminates a ground
wire inside the tank surface that is in contact with the fuel, and also in
contact witht he filler ring/ and cap. I have a piece of Al cut about 3
in. on a side of triangle, connected to the fuel cap, with twisted wire.
This keeps contact with the fuel when the metal fuel nozzle keeps contact
with the filler ring on top of the tank. It is never recommended you fuel
a composite plane with plastic gas cans, but we've all done it. It's
recommended that you keep the fuel nozzle in contact with the fuel in the
tank. Incidentally, I've been around composite planes since Rutan flew his
first VariEze with our RAF epoxy system developed at Rezolin Chemical, I've
never heard of a composite plane catching fire during fueling due to
sparks, but coulda happened.
Gordon Bowen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John and Phyllis Smoyer" <jpsmoyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Installing elevator control horns |
The horns I'm talking about mount on the main and center beams of the elevators.
The plans seem to show the horn aligned parallel to the airplane center line.
However, because the horns are mounted some distance outboard of the airplane center
line, the control cables will connect to the horn at an angle of something
like (I'm guessing) 20 degrees or so. That means that the control force for
the elevator will exert a side load/bending moment on the horn, which will be
transferred into the bolts that hold the horn onto the elevator beams.
Is this a problem? Should I install the control horns at an angle, so that there
would be no side load? How have other builders installed this horn?
For sure, aligning the horns to eliminate the side load would turn them into the
airstream and create more drag than if the horn were aligned straight.
Thanks for your help.
John Smoyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <djv(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing elevator control horns |
I ran my horns at the same angle as the cables coming to them. I did not want
to be putting them in a side bending load.
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: John and Phyllis Smoyer
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 3:53 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Installing elevator control horns
The horns I'm talking about mount on the main and center beams of the elevators.
The plans seem to show the horn aligned parallel to the airplane center line.
However, because the horns are mounted some distance outboard of the airplane
center line, the control cables will connect to the horn at an angle of something
like (I'm guessing) 20 degrees or so. That means that the control force
for the elevator will exert a side load/bending moment on the horn, which will
be transferred into the bolts that hold the horn onto the elevator beams.
Is this a problem? Should I install the control horns at an angle, so that there
would be no side load? How have other builders installed this horn?
For sure, aligning the horns to eliminate the side load would turn them into
the airstream and create more drag than if the horn were aligned straight.
Thanks for your help.
John Smoyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Charvet" <bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net> |
mock-ups for me).
| Subject: | I've finally started building something that will fly |
(no more mock-ups for me).
Hi all,
I've been lurking in the background on this list for a few months now while studying
my plans, practicing my woodworking skills and getting my shop ready. Its
a long story but I built an entire fuselage mock-up with some lumber yard douglas
fir that I bought before I really knew what the recommendations were as
far as grain slope, etc. It didn't take all that long and I learned a lot of
things I'll do differently when I get the right materials.
I just started last weekend making wing ribs with wood (douglas fir) that meets
my expectations and I'm building a rib nearly every day. After cutting all the
parts out in advance I can now glue and nail one up in about an hour. I've
posted my progress so far at mykitplanes at the following link. I've posted
a few pictures there as well.
I've learned a lot just lurking in the background and from searching the archives.
There are three other Piets under construction within 40 miles of me so I
have lots of local sources of information too.
Here is my link
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/buildLogReport.cfm?PlaneID481&FNameBen&LNameCharvet&PlaneNameAir%20Camper
Ben
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Installing elevator control horns |
In a message dated 3/3/2005 4:55:10 PM Central Standard Time,
jpsmoyer(at)verizon.net writes:
Should I install the control horns at an angle, so that there would be no
side load? How have other builders installed this horn?
John,
The horns should be installed at an angle, so there is no side load.
Chuck G.
temps in the mid 60's, and a SSW winds !!
Time to Kick the Tires, Twang the Wires, and Light the Fire !!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Safety? Fiberglass gas tanks & Static Electricity |
I'm carefully listening to this one...
I always wear safety glasses when re-fueling, and I always assume some static
discharge is going to occur, so I touch everything to ground, whenever
possible.
Gives me the Hiebie Jiebies every time !!
Chuck G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: flotation devices |
In a message dated 3/3/2005 9:26:36 AM Central Standard Time,
Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov writes:
With my new drop tank and tip tanks I can carry 40 gallons which give me
about a 12
hour endurance time. About 800 air miles. I was thinking Houston to
Tampa direct,
non-stop, un-refueled.
Mike,
If you pull that one off, you will certainly win the 'Iron Butt' award !!
Chuck G.
I've done one 4hr leg, and three times I've done 3 1/2hr legs. After
landing, I had to sit there a few moments to allow all my bones to hook back up
!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sterling" <sterling(at)pgrb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety? Fiberglass gas tanks & Static Electricity |
----- Original Message -----
From: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 11:11 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Safety? Fiberglass gas tanks & Static Electricity
I'm carefully listening to this one...
I always wear safety glasses when re-fueling, and I always assume some static
discharge is going to occur, so I touch everything to ground, whenever possible.
Gives me the Hiebie Jiebies every time !!
Chuck G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pilots4ETW(at)wmconnect.com |
| Subject: | Re: Safety? Fiberglass gas tanks & Static Electricity |
The reason I posted this is from witnessing the aftermath of an actual fire.
When I was a news reporter for a TV station in El Paso, I saw a guy burned and
disfigured on one of the thousands of hard-news stories I covered in my
career. El Paso is a dry desert climate, great place for making static electricity
on a cool day. The fellow was a go-carter and he hauled gas in a plastic can
in the back of his pickup. To compound matters, his truck bed was lined in
Astro Turf. The fire investigator theorized that when the victim slid his plastic
gas can into and out of the pickup bed, it helped induce a static buildup in
the plastic gas can. (Kind of like when you rub a small rubber balloon on your
shirt, the resultant static makes it stick to you.) The go-cart was hauled on
a small trailer. He unloaded it, slid the plastic gas can on the Astro Turf
and during the fueling stage, KABOOM. Luckily, nobody else was hurt and he was
fueling in a sandy area where nothing else caught on fire, but the gocarter got
a new physical identity! No hair and 3rd degree burns to his hands, arms and
face.
I'm buying 15 feet of 1/8th inch copper grounding wire to install in both of
my fiberglass tanks, then running down to the bottom of the fuselage to the
juncture of the landing gear. Maybe this way, I can ground the airplane in a way
similar to how FBOs fuel spam cans.
One other lesson from my days as a news reporter. I saw a man who was killed
when shrapnel tore him to shreds. He was blown to bits from the explosion of
an air compressor tank. I suspect the tank had built up rust and was
compromised because someone was failing not to do a daily water drain of the tank
as
mandated by OSHA in work setting. I religiously drain the air tank on my air
compressors after using them, after seeing a dead man who looked like
hamburger--killed by an exploding air tank.
Sterling Brooks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Safety? Fiberglass gas tanks & Static Electricity |
Hi listers,
This doesn't apply to just fiberglass tanks, but to any use of plastic
around gasoline.
I'm one of those guys who uses plastic gas cans. I use them to fill my lawn
mowers in the summertime. I used them to refuel my C-150 with a plastic
funnel. I still would, except that I have sold it.
Now I happen to be an electrical engineer, also. I have worked a lot with
MOS devices which are very static sensitive. We had to work at a grounded
workbench with a wrist strap, etc. Working in a static sensitive environment
has instilled in me some ways to reduce the risks associated with static
electricity.
Static electricity takes some time to drain away because plastic is a very
poor conductor of electricity. So move slowly. Set your can of fuel on a
ladder, etc., near where you are going to pour it from, and wait a while. While
you are waiting, blow your breath across the can, funnel, and tank to drain
away the static electricity. The moist air makes the surface of the plastic
more conductive. When you are ready to refuel, use your body to bring the
fuel can to the same voltage as the plane before opening either fuel cap. That
is, touch both at the same time. If you have a metal ground system (like
the engine or landing gear), touch it too. If there is a spark, it should jump
during this time. After the spark jumps (or doesn't jump) the likelihood of
igniting a fire is very low. Now, without making any unnecessary movements,
open the caps and pour the gas.
For what its worth: gasoline is a non-conductor, and as far as I know
doesn't build up a static charge itself. The charge will be on the surface of
the
plastic pieces. I don't think its the gas you're trying to discharge, its
the tank, can and funnel. But, I'm not positive about this, so do what the
glass plane people have found that works -- which I've read in earlier posts.
The post about fabric anti-static spray was especially good. (Sorry, I don't
remember who that was.)
Dry climates are of course the worst. There have been numerous refueling
fires at gas stations. These are usually due to people sliding across the seat
of their car in cold dry weather which builds up a static charge on their
clothing. Its a good idea to touch the car body when you get out, and again
when you have the metal of the fuel nozzle in the other hand. This discharges
everything to ground potential. If the person stays statically charged, then
discharges at just the wrong time, the gas fumes can ignite. A Google
search will find some of these cases.
OK, now you know some ways to reduce the risk. Its pretty hard to be
perfectly safe around something with as much energy content as gasoline. All
in
all, its a pretty safe way to store energy. Look at the millions of cars on
the road, and every one of them has a bomb on board!
Regards,
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walt evans" <wbeevans(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Installing elevator control horns |
John,
I'm built from the plan that is dated 3-23-33. and that drawing shows them on
an angle. It's kind of an optical illusion tho. lay a ruler thru the centerline
of the horn on the drawing and it will stand out.
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: John and Phyllis Smoyer
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 5:53 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Installing elevator control horns
The horns I'm talking about mount on the main and center beams of the elevators.
The plans seem to show the horn aligned parallel to the airplane center line.
However, because the horns are mounted some distance outboard of the airplane
center line, the control cables will connect to the horn at an angle of something
like (I'm guessing) 20 degrees or so. That means that the control force
for the elevator will exert a side load/bending moment on the horn, which will
be transferred into the bolts that hold the horn onto the elevator beams.
Is this a problem? Should I install the control horns at an angle, so that there
would be no side load? How have other builders installed this horn?
For sure, aligning the horns to eliminate the side load would turn them into
the airstream and create more drag than if the horn were aligned straight.
Thanks for your help.
John Smoyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walt evans" <wbeevans(at)verizon.net> |
will
fly (no more mock-ups for me).
| Subject: | Re: I've finally started building something that will |
fly (no more mock-ups for me).
<000a01c5204d$c7aab030$0100a8c0@Desktop>
<009a01c52066$7ad10980$6501a8c0@benslaptop>
Ben,
Nice site and looks like a good start to a great project.
Good luck! You're gonna love it.
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: Ben Charvet
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 10:01 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: I've finally started building something that will fly
(no more mock-ups for me).
Hi all,
I've been lurking in the background on this list for a few months now while studying
my plans, practicing my woodworking skills and getting my shop ready.
Its a long story but I built an entire fuselage mock-up with some lumber yard
douglas fir that I bought before I really knew what the recommendations were
as far as grain slope, etc. It didn't take all that long and I learned a lot
of things I'll do differently when I get the right materials.
I just started last weekend making wing ribs with wood (douglas fir) that meets
my expectations and I'm building a rib nearly every day. After cutting all
the parts out in advance I can now glue and nail one up in about an hour. I've
posted my progress so far at mykitplanes at the following link. I've posted
a few pictures there as well.
I've learned a lot just lurking in the background and from searching the archives.
There are three other Piets under construction within 40 miles of me so
I have lots of local sources of information too.
Here is my link
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/buildLogReport.cfm?PlaneID481&FNameBen&LNameCharvet&PlaneNameAir%20Camper
Ben
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Franck <franck(at)geneseo.net> |
With Oshkosh opening on a Monday, July 25, will the Piet Gathering at
Brodhead be on the 22nd, 23rd and 24th of July?
And what are the dates for the Fall Fly-In?
Thanks, RF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cinda Gadd" <csfog(at)earthlink.net> |
Yep, July 22 and 23 will be the best days to be there.
Skip, still working on the hangar in WV
> With Oshkosh opening on a Monday, July 25, will the Piet Gathering at
> Brodhead be on the 22nd, 23rd and 24th of July?
> And what are the dates for the Fall Fly-In?
> Thanks, RF
________________________________________________________________________________
Is there anyone on the list that has been doing spins in the Peitenpol?
I have let ours go around about 1/2 a turn and it seems to recover
almost by itself.
My CG is about 19".
Craig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Les Schubert <leskarin(at)telus.net> |
| Subject: | continental engine/carburetor |
A week or so ago someone posted about there continental engine seeming to
run out of fuel at full throttle. Yesterday I encountered the same thing I
think while doing full throttle tests tied down. The engine would rev up to
2150 rpm and after a few seconds would go lean and basically quit. If you
closed the throttle quickly you could catch it before it died. I have the
Stromberg carb with the new delrin needle and the fuel was set to about 3/8
to 1/2" below the edge of the bowl. Upon examination I noticed that the
back edge of the float was coming about 1/16 to 3/32" above the bowl and I
suspected that it was running into the float stop above it. I removed the
float and ground off 1/16" back by the new soldered on counter weight for
the Delrin needle. Reassembled the carb. Now the engine pulls to 2150rpm
static for 5 minutes with a 1/4 tank of fuel. Hope this helps someone else.
C-IDVW is now ready for taxi tests, soon for first flight.
Les
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wizzard187(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: continental engine/carburetor |
Les, Thanks for your imput. I am going to open up the carb (stromberg)
today and look things over. I have had three different carbs on and they all
do
the same thing. I have plenty of fuel flow to the carb, When I frst start
it up it seems to get into the higher rpms which might be bowl gas but then
dies unless I just idle. I have parts ordered for a marvel Shebler
(venturi) but are slow in coming if they do. Thanks again Ken Conrad in warm
Iowa
(50)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FTLovley(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Piets and spins |
I used to do spins in the Ford powered Piets all the time...I once spun down
from 5000 feet to 1000 feet over White Bear Lake...lost track of the turns.
Make sure the CG is not aft of 20 inches, and be carefull if the airplane is a
short fuselage model with a lighter engine up front...usually these ships have
the wing moved back, making the nose quite long, and usually the landing gear
is covered, compounding the problem of too much area out front. Bernard
never wanted us to cover the gear legs unless the airplane had a long fuselage,
for better spin recovery.
Forrest Lovley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N321TX(at)wmconnect.com |
| Subject: | Re: continental engine/carburetor |
The non-metal needle has been suspected of causing problems in the Stromberg
carb when auto-gas is used. The additives MTBE and TAME seem to affect (swell)
the needle. This has not seemed to be a problem when using aviation gasoline
(100LL) having a greater purity and far less additives.
I through away my plastic needle and went with steel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hjarrett" <hjarrett(at)hroads.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Glue question |
Being into WW-I aircraft and guns as well as getting on the web on several other
topics (the kinds of things that draw engineers) you should be forewarned that
the ATF and FBI really DO watch for key words in e-mailed and when ordering
materials. One that draws attention really fast is precision scales (great for
mixing explosives and drugs). Don't be surprised or upset if you find yourself
answering a knock at the door from someone yelling "ATF!, open the door!"
and by all means remember, it is NOT a delivery! ;-)
Hank
----- Original Message -----
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 8:00 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Glue question
I have found that small plastic squeeze bottles (4 to 8 oz?) work very well.
The kind I use have a snap-on cap that is attached to the bottle so you can't
lose it.
I invested in a small digital scale (iBal 201) and mix the West System epoxy
by weight. These scales cost about $100, are used by ammo reloaders, and weigh
to .01 gram. They have a capacity of 200 grams. I typically only use 5 to
10 grams. Just put in the resin, get the weight, multiply by 1.2, and add hardener
up to that value. Its very accurate and repeatable for small amounts.
(I can't help it if I'm an engineer!)
BTW epoxy has a very long shelf life. Especially if you keep it sealed in the
can. By using the squeeze bottles, you don't have to open the can very often.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hjarrett" <hjarrett(at)hroads.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Safety? Fiberglass gas tanks & Static Electricity |
Why not add a piece of stainless welding rod to your glass tank when you build
it running from the low point to a spot a couple of inches from the filler cap
so it would come through the covering? Label the end of the wire as the tank
ground and clip to the protruding wire when you refuel (BEFORE you remove the
cap!).
On the plastic fuel cans I designed a grounding kit a few years ago that used an
R/C model fuel stopper with a piece of stainless welding rod through it that
was put through a hole drilled in the plastic can and tightened. The rubber
stopper expands in the hole when you tighten the screw and the SS wire is submerged
in the fuel. If the wire is bent so it goes close to the outlet hole it
stays submerged when pouring. Just ground the can to the fuel tank ground and
on to "earth" and you should be all set.
Hank J
----- Original Message -----
From: N321TX(at)wmconnect.com
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 03, 2005 9:19 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Safety? Fiberglass gas tanks & Static Electricity
I've successfully dissipated and prevented static electricity in photographic
labs for many years by mixing Downey Fabric Softener to water at a 50/50 mix,
and then spraying carpeted areas in and around the lab. Here in the Southwest,
on a cold-dry winter day, we can darned near arc weld with static after walking
around on a dry surface and many rolls of films have been ruined when spooling
film out of cassette in a darkroom. The static can bee seen on the film after
development. The Downey/water method nearly eliminates the ionic charge,
thus the reason your socks don't cling after coming out of the dryer when treated
with Downey. (Ask any woman who wears nylon stockings... Downey is a must
on man-made textiles.)
When fueling my Cherokee in the boondocks, I've also used my "formula" for spraying
down the surface of the wings, gas caps, my shoes and the area where I
stand when transferring the gas, prior to fueling an airplane with plastic cans.
(The cans are sprayed before fueling as well and allowed a minute or so to
dry... The back of the vehicle is also sprayed before loading a plastic can! Try
gassing an airplane at the landing strip in/at Wall Drug Store in South Dakota...
ain't gonna happen unless you go into town for mogas. Also, Custer's Last
Stand! No gas at the field, but a convenience store 1 mile away...
Sorry, but sometimes remote fueling is an evil necessity for us who live and
fly off of fields not having a fuel source, such as a ranch or in places in the
Dakotas That's why I always carried my small spray bottle of Downy/Water in
my airplane.
I'm more concerned about fiberglass gas tanks in my Pietenpol though. Fiberglass
makes for a great attractant for static electricity! I wonder if there is
an additional way to enhance safety when adding gas to a wooden airplane having
fiberglass tanks? I'm about to build my fiberglass gas tank and I thought of
adding a small copper wire to the aluminum filler neck, then to the weldable
flange, running the wire down to a low spot on the fuselage where I could connect
to a ground source (probably a small copper shaft driven into the ground...)
Obviously it's wise to AVOID using plastic cans for fueling an airplane, but
sometimes we don't have a choice.
Does anybody have any information about grounding tips and way to avoid static
when fueling a wooden airplane having a fiberglass tank in the boondocks?
Thanks,
Sterling Brooks
Knot-2-Shabby Airport & Texas Longhorn Cattle Ranch
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isablcorky(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: continental engine/carburetor |
I dare not suggest a simple test like removing your tank filler cap and then
try reving up that 65. Might surprise you.
Corky in Louisiana enjoying the slower pace of life
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gbowen(at)ptialaska.net" <gbowen(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Piets and spins, CG Stuff |
Oh soooo brave, to do spins in a Piete, it'd scare me to death.
On secondary subject of long fuselages and CG's. I just completed the CG
stuff on the rebuild of Piete N-1033B. This plane was built by Dick Greide
back in 1979 and crashed in a MO cornfield in 1996 on the way back from
Oshkosh, due to engine failure. Because the wings were off of an Aeronca
1300 payload, and Greide moved the wings back, longer 4130 fuselage, I
decided to utilize the full advantage of this planes payload abilities by
putting on an o-235 100 hp and shifting the CG as needed to fly my 280 lbs,
plus wife's 130 lbs. Had to move the pilot's rudder petals forward about 4"
due to 6'4" and long legs. It's a cozy fit by all measurement standards.
Here's how the numbers came out: LE of wing used as datum point.
1) gear axles 2"
2) empty CG 5.5" with wt of 680#
3) fuel at negative 12"
4) tail wheel at 161" (had wt of 14 lbs when longerons level, min fuel,
with full tank the bird will fall on nose without lead on tailwheel)
5) Passenger's front seat moment was 20"
6) Pilot's back seat moment was 53"
Using 20% of chord as forward CG min. limit or 12" back from datum, and 33%
of chord as aft loaded max. CG limit or 20". Trial (paper) loaded weight
and balance came out as follows: 1) 170# passenger, 300# pilot, 120 #
fuel. The initial takeoff CG was 17" behind LE, after burning off all but
about 2 gal of fuel, CG moved back to 19". Both in the operational window,
but wouldn't want to do a couple spins, pilot may wantta lose a couple Big
Macs too..
Minimum pilot weight without supplimental weights in tail or baggage rack
is about 150# with full fuel. This depends on the elevator's authority to
hold the nose up during flare
Max pilot weight with min. 2 fuel is about 305#. Moral of story, it is
possible to build a fat boy's Piete, hope this info is helpful for the
other couple non-FAA standard 170#'ers out there. Hope to be airborne next
week or two.
Gordon Bowen
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Piets and spins, CG Stuff |
In a message dated 3/6/2005 9:49:43 AM Central Standard Time,
gbowen(at)ptialaska.net writes:
Using 20% of chord as forward CG min. limit or 12" back from datum, and 33%
of chord as aft loaded max. CG limit or 20".
Gordon,
If I read you e-mail correctly, you have wings off of an Aronca on your
Pietenpol. If this is true, then you CAN NOT use the 33% of chord as the aft
loaded max. The 33% aft limit (or as BHP listed it as 1/3 of the wing chord),
is
for the Pietenpol Airfoil...not the Aronca Airfoil. You MUST use the CG range
of the Aronca Airfoil, which probably has an aft limit of no more than 30%.
Loading in an aft CG range is where you will be in serious trouble if you enter
a spin. On several occasions I've seen Radio Controlled Model Planes spin
all the way to the ground, because they were intentionally loaded with an aft
CG, in an effort to attain a sensitive pitch control.
Chuck Gantzer
p.s. Arm X Weight = Moment
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glue question |
In a message dated 3/6/2005 9:44:50 AM Central Standard Time,
hjarrett(at)hroads.net writes:
Just DON'T make strafing runs at the local airport unless the FAA knows about
it first! Same goes for smoke systems in the exhaust.
True...Very True !!
On Friday evening, I was doing some 'Smoke Runs' around Cook Airfield, and
someone called the Fire Department, reporting a plane that was smoking, and
going to crash. Luckily, two airport guys were there when the Fire Department
showed up, and they pointed up at my plane as I flew past, and let them know
about my smoke system. I guess I'll have to let the Fire Department know when
I'll be 'Blowing Smoke' !!
Chuck G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isablcorky(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fuel cut-off valve |
Pieters,
Am to relocate my fuel valve from under tank, center. Does anyone know of any
rule, objection to locating this valve on the engine side of the firewall?
give me your thoughts on this subject, please
Corky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "cgalley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel cut-off valve |
Normally, the fuel valve is NOT placed on the engine side. In case of fire, you
want to be able to turn is off. Fire will damage the valve and you might not
be able to turn it off so the tank continues to feed the fire.
Cy Galley
EAA Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: Isablcorky(at)aol.com
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2005 3:16 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuel cut-off valve
Pieters,
Am to relocate my fuel valve from under tank, center. Does anyone know of any
rule, objection to locating this valve on the engine side of the firewall? give
me your thoughts on this subject, please
Corky
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gbowen(at)ptialaska.net" <gbowen(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Piets and spins, CG Stuff |
Chuck,
I hope to never even approach within 2" of the aft limit on these wings,
for safety reason. But, the Aeronca has a straight constant chord of 60"
like most of the storebought tail draggers, and a lot of tricycle geared
planes. The limits of 33% of chord aft CG and 20% of chord forward CG
limit has nothing to do with Pietes or Aeroncas, these are standard
percentages used since the first Piper's and T-Crafts, due to the standard
shape of the wing. Look at any oldtime builders book, use to be available
from EAA bookstore, on how to build wooden homebuilt plane, these old books
always used the 33% and 20% rule of thumb numbers due to the shape and
chord of the wings they were building. Some designers recommended 32%,
like the Osprey, others like Rutan had other numbers due to the sweep of
wing and the constantly changing chord. For safety reasons, each
homebuilder (aka Test Pilot), has to understand CG limits and how to safely
experiment with their homebuilt wings and, if feasible, expand the safe CG
envelope.
The purpose of my prior email was to let a few of the other Big Mac
challenged potential builders/lurkers know, it's possible to build a
quasi-plans Piete that will safely handle their weights, if adequate
attention is paid to placement of stuff that affect CG. Plus moving the
wings LE back to approx. 18" behind the firewall.
Gordon Bowen
P.S. I stand corrected, I provided the approx. ARMS of the moveable stuff,
not moment. Also N-1033B has a GM starter motor hanging out there by the
prop and a 20lb battery between the passengers legs.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FTLovley(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Piets and spins, CG Stuff |
Actually, if all of us self styled engineers want to get it right...as
Bernard said, we are moving the fuselage forward, not the wing back...the wing
stays
right where it is.
Forrest Lovley
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel cut-off valve |
In a message dated 3/6/2005 4:22:50 PM Central Standard Time,
cgalley(at)qcbc.org writes:
Normally, the fuel valve is NOT placed on the engine side. In case of fire,
you want to be able to turn is off. Fire will damage the valve and you might
not be able to turn it off so the tank continues to feed the fire.
Cy Galley
EAA Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: Isablcorky(at)aol.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuel cut-off valve
Pieters,
Am to relocate my fuel valve from under tank, center. Does anyone know of any
rule, objection to locating this valve on the engine side of the firewall?
give me your thoughts on this subject, please
Corky
Corky,
I located my cable operated, 3/8" fuel shut-off ball valve on the engine
side of the firewall, before I realized that certified aircraft must be
located behind the firewall, for reasons stated by Cy. My reasoning was that I
didn't want any fuel connections in the cockpit, where leaks could possibly
develop. I now have a plan in the works to retrofit a stainless steel box
enclosure, to capture the fuel shut-off valve, and carry a drain in the box overboard,
to the belly. I cannot relocate the valve behind the firewall, because I
built a blister in the tank outlet, to protrude thru the firewall, where the
weldable fitting is glassed in. Any ideas about this retrofit would be greatly
appreciated.
This brings up another question about fire hazards...How much heat is
required for Baby Oil to burn ? I have the fiberglass smoke tank located on the
engine side of the firewall, however my exhaust pipes go down & aft slightly,
totally outside the cowling.
Chuck G.
needing a great deal of restraint, to keep from pushing the 'Smoke Button'.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Piets and spins, CG Stuff |
In a message dated 3/6/2005 4:55:39 PM Central Standard Time,
gbowen(at)ptialaska.net writes:
Chuck,
I hope to never even approach within 2" of the aft limit on these wings,
for safety reason. But, the Aeronca has a straight constant chord of 60"
like most of the storebought tail draggers, and a lot of tricycle geared
planes. The limits of 33% of chord aft CG and 20% of chord forward CG
limit has nothing to do with Pietes or Aeroncas, these are standard
percentages used since the first Piper's and T-Crafts, due to the standard
shape of the wing. Look at any oldtime builders book, use to be available
from EAA bookstore, on how to build wooden homebuilt plane, these old books
always used the 33% and 20% rule of thumb numbers due to the shape and
chord of the wings they were building. Some designers recommended 32%,
like the Osprey, others like Rutan had other numbers due to the sweep of
wing and the constantly changing chord. For safety reasons, each
homebuilder (aka Test Pilot), has to understand CG limits and how to safely
experiment with their homebuilt wings and, if feasible, expand the safe CG
envelope.
Gordon,
I wasn't aware of those other airfoils with 33% aft CG limits. I thought the
Pietenpol's undercambered airfoil could get away with it, because of such a
high negative pitching moment. A flat bottom airfoil does not have as much
negative pitching moment (nose down) as an undercambered airfoil.
Chuck G.
p.s. the Wittman Tailwind has somewhat of a semi-semetrical airfoil, and has
an aft CG limit of 28%.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Nelson <lnelson208(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA website down?? |
Has anyone tried to log onto the EAA website this
weekend? I have tried all day Sat and all day today
(Sunday)...no luck.
Also, if anyone of you have the FAA N number query
page stored as a "favorite"...would you try to use
that. I have been "denied access"....
All other websites I visit work fine so I don't think
it is my computer......
thanks in advance
=====
Larry Nelson
Springfield, MO
Beechcraft Bonanza V-35B N2980A
Pietenpol Air Camper N444MH
1963 GMC 4106-1618
SV/ Spirit of America
ARS WB0JOT
__________________________________
http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Lathrop <jlathrop(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EAA website down?? |
Larry,
The EAA site is working fine for me. It looks like the FAA redesigned
their site, this link should get you to the N number lookup.
http://162.58.35.241/acdatabase/acmain.htm
Jim Lathrop
wrote:
>
> Has anyone tried to log onto the EAA website this
> weekend? I have tried all day Sat and all day today
> (Sunday)...no luck.
>
> Also, if anyone of you have the FAA N number query
> page stored as a "favorite"...would you try to use
> that. I have been "denied access"....
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gbowen(at)ptialaska.net" <gbowen(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Piets and spins, CG Stuff |
Aaahhh!!!!!!!!! The 30's, Golden Age of Aviation and those with memories
thereof, when fuselages were swept forward rather than wings swept backward.
Forrest, didn't you make a posting a while back that you saw Bernie cut the
top out of a dope can for making metal tabs? If so, maybe you can answer a
question about his history and plans for wings. Question: The National
Advisory Commission for Aeronautics (NACA) issued it's Tech Rept. #460 in
1933, advising future aviators and builders of planes on the pros and cons
of 78 different airfoils. NACA had been around since 1915. Did Bernie's
wing design come from this original NACA windtunnel work? Thanks.
Gordon Bowen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gbowen(at)ptialaska.net" <gbowen(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Piets and spins, CG Stuff |
Chuck,
I believe test pilots/Designers like Steve Wittman set CG design limits
after a tad of flying trial and error and he assummed the future buyers of
his plans actually built the plan to plans, which many did not. The test
pilot who flew Nat Puffer's Cozy (one of the first serious modification of
Rutan's proven designs), used a 20# chunk of lead within a slotted plastic
pipe in the passenger seat. Nat may have learned this trick from Mike
Melvil, Rutan's longterm crash test dummy and space cadet. The test pilot
could slide the chunk of lead backward and forward, inside the plastic
pipe, as needed to recover from tail heavy stalls.
By default each Pietenpol builder is a test pilot, and has to set design
limits for his or her unique aircraft. I saw one the other day on E-Bay
that used a T-Craft wing.
The % of chord CG limit rule of thumbs comes from the original testing done
by NACA in the 1930's, with windtunneling of 78 different wing shapes,
aspects, chord and camber designs. I think just about every modern day
straight wing, constant chord wing is referred to as a NACA wing. The
funny thing is, NACA didn't issue it's report #460 until 1933, a year after
Bernie introduced his wing design.
Gordon Bowen
________________________________________________________________________________
I've been using the West System epoxy. I buy it in the quart cans and use
thier mini-pumps which are sized for the correct 5:1 mixture. One full stroke
of
resin, plus one full stroke of hardener equals the right mixture. If you need
more,, two or three full strokes of each. The key is to make sure you've got
the right pump in the right can. I use the plastic lids off the "new" plastic
coffee cans for mixing. I've used almost exactly one full quart can of resin
and it appears that I have 4/5 of a can of hardener remaining. Also found out
that the local boating place carries the West system. Check their Web site for
dealers in your area if you're inclined to use this glue.
I made a test joint, of course, and after a day of curing, could not break it
no-how. Gave it to my weight-lifter son who can squat 500 pounds as easily as
I can manage 50 lbs -- he couldn't break the joint! I concluded that the
stuff is airworthy. Of course, builders have been using it for years, too!
Was 57 degrees this past weekend -- back to the 30s today. Spring is nigh!
Fred B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | FTLovley(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Piets and spins, CG Stuff |
Mr Bowen...In my posting I stated that Bernard, (I absolutely NEVER said
Bernie.!!) used the tops of dope cans to make aileron and elevator horns, not
"tabs". The information on how he developed his airfoil from a Gottengen 397 is
written in his "How to Build" series in Popular Aviation during the thirties.
He knew that a commercially produced airplane that he had previously owned with
an undercambered airfoil got off the ground good, so he merely went ahead and
built a wing that way to try it out. I have no idea on whether he ever saw
the NACA Tech report #460. I also never stated that we were "sweeping" the
fuselage forward or back...I merely pointed out that when a Pietenpol is adjusted
to get the CG in the proper place, we are moving the weight of the fuselage
forward, not moving the wing back, to compensate for a lighter engine than the
Ford Model A.
Quite possibly, it's time for me to quit reading the postings on this
list, and get back to building...I think my old friend Bernard would like the
idea.
Forrest Lovley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N321TX(at)wmconnect.com |
| Subject: | Really GREAT aviation story on History Channel! |
The First Flight Around the World, will air one more time on the History
time zone. Set your TIVO and record it. You'll be glad you did!
I just watched this program and was amazed at the story of American aviators
who in 1924 flew around the world in their open cockpit airplanes. Four
American airplanes attempted the trip and only 2 made it, beating the French,
British, Italian pilots who were also competing in this event.
Original motion picture film of the trip along with a narrative from the
diaries of the aviators make for a really great. Computer graphics depicting the
airplanes also add to the drama of this show ... very well done.
If you like open cockpit flying (and I suspect you do) you'll really enjoy
watching this show. These guys (and airplanes) were amazing!
I wonder if Mr. Pietenpol followed this story when he was a young man and
became inspired by the success of the American pilots?
Below is a link to The History Channel website about this program. (Their
website runs slower than molasses following on a cold winter day, so be patient.)
http://www.historychannel.com/global/listings/series_showcase.jsp?EGrpType=Ser
ies&Id=14217115&NetwCode=THC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Piets and spins, CG Stuff |
It's my understanding that Mr Pietenpol did not like " Bernie " at
all and insisted on Bernard. I can see his point. Anyone calling me
Cliffy gets ignored or an exceedingly dirty look ( occassionaly worse!)
The " Flying and Glider Manual" 1932, Available from the EAA as
a reprint, is a must to have. Bernard explains the airfoil on page 16.
He states,"Don Finke, a neighbour who flies as though he were born
in a plane, and myself sketched it out one night out of our heads."
And a little later," I am told by experts that the curve is practically an
Eiffel 36 with ordinates increased 25% all along the chord."
There is more, much more, in this publication. While you're at it, get
the entire set, great stuff.
The archives holds a vast store of information. Put "glue" in the search
engine box and up comes 2037 messages. Airfoil generates 571.
At the bottom of every message is a list of links. The fourth one is
" search engine". check it out.
Also go to http://www.mykitplane.com/index.cfm and look up the
articles scanned in by Jim Markle, in both the "files" and " picture
gallery" areas.
Forrest, I think many, if not all, on this list would like to hear more
on the flying characteristics of our favourite plane. Your comments
on spinning were an eye opener. Thank you.
A final word, don't use paper anything, plain or waxed, to mix glue
on or in. I use small graduated plastic cups to mix my 1 to 1 epoxy.
If I need 2 cc I fill 1 cc with part one and continue to the 2 cc level
with part two then mix. Nice and neat. Available at my local marine
supply.
Clif
>
> Mr Bowen...In my posting I stated that Bernard, (I absolutely NEVER said
> Bernie.!!) used the tops of dope cans to make aileron and elevator horns,
not
> "tabs". The information on how he developed his airfoil from a Gottengen
397 is
> written in his "How to Build" series in Popular Aviation during the
thirties.
> Quite possibly, it's time for me to quit reading the postings on this
> list, and get back to building...I think my old friend Bernard would like
the
> idea.
> Forrest Lovley
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John and Phyllis Smoyer" <jpsmoyer(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Orientation of Elevator Control Horns |
Many thanks to Walt Evans, Chuck G, Max Davis, and D. J. Vegh for your fast and
insightful responses. Walt, I looked in the original plans in the F&G manual,
and the horns are indeed drawn at an angle as you described. Max, your ship
looks beautiful on the mykitplane builders log, and the "tail grouping" photo
plainly shows the horns aligned with the cables. We will definitely be mounting
our control horns that way.
Thanks again for the help.
Best Regards,
John Smoyer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alexms1(at)comcast.net |
| Subject: | Re: Torque Tube Rod |
John,
I am still studying your words of wisdom so when I get to my axle installation,
I will have good info to work from. Your comment about "next time using spreader
bars with thicker walls", what did you use and what would you go to?
Thanks so much.
Alex Sloan
-------------- Original message --------------
----- Original Message -----
From: David Paulsen
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Torque Tube Rod
============================
Dave,
Pardon me for jumping into this discussion about how to keep the straight axle
from rotating when the brakes are applied.
May I suggest an alternative method of doing this so that the axle is free to move
in any direction without excessive strain on welded joints? I also believe
that the integrity of the axle is not compromised by cutting a hole through
it and I think this is a lighter solution to the problem.
I have attached a photo of the installation on my ex- "Mountain Piet". You just
weld a couple of 3" tabs on the top and bottom of the axle in the middle. Do
the same thing on the rear spreader bar. Now drill some 1/4" holes at the top
and bottom of the tabs to use Heim joints. Then connect the Heim joints with
a 1/2" round aluminum rod drilled and tapped for the 1/4-20 threads of the
Heim joints so that when when the whole thing is assembled you have a parallelogram
formed by the tabs and links.
The system works well. If I were to do it over again, the only change I would
make would be to use a rear spreader bar with a little thicker wall so that it
is not as apt to bend under loading.
Hope this is helpful in your decision.
John
===================================
Thanks Jack. Perhaps I will try to find two 8 inch pieces of pipe that can slip
tightly into my axle - position them so there's about 4 inches of pipe on either
side of the holes - and drill them through. This will double the thickness
of the axle in that critical area acting as reinforcement in case there is
a exceptionally hard landing.
Dave Paulsen
----- Original Message -----
From: Phillips, Jack
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Torque Tube Rod
Dave,
The guide pins dont have to be welded. However, just putting a hole through the
axle causes a stress concentration. My axle broke at the guide pin, but my
axle was only .120 wall. My new axle will be .188 wall, and I will have it
heat treated after welding to raise the yield strength to 105,000 psi, which
will make it about 50% stronger (and 8 lbs lighter) than a .25 wall axle non-heat
treated. I am also going to change the design of the guide pins to allow
the holes through the axle to be on the neutral axis so any stress concentrations
caused by the holes will not matter.
Jack Phillips
Slowly beginning to repair NX899JP
-----Original Message-----
Why does the bolt or rod that some of us have put though our straight though axles
have to be welded? I'm probably missing something obvious but I don't know
what. The rod can't jump out of the axle because there is a nut at the bottom
that will prevent it from coming up through the torque tube. Thanks. Dave
Paulsen
John,
I am still studying your words of wisdom so when I get to my axle installation,
I will have good info to work from. Your comment about "next time
using spreader bars with thicker walls", what did you use and what would you go
to?
Thanks so much.
Alex Sloan
-------------- Original message --------------
----- Original Message -----
From: <A title=dpaul(at)fidnet.com ">David Paulsen
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Torque Tube Rod
============================
Dave,
Pardon me for jumping into this discussionabout
how to keep the straight axle from rotating when the brakes are applied.
May I suggest an alternative method of doing this
so that the axle is free to move in any directionwithoutexcessive
strain on welded joints?I also believe that the integrity of the
axle is not compromised by cutting a holethrough it and Ithink
this is a lighter solution to the problem.
I have attached a photo of the installation on my
ex- "Mountain Piet". You just weld a couple of3" tabs on the top
and bottom of the axle in the middle. Do the same thing on the rear spreader
bar. Now drill some 1/4" holes at the top and bottom of the tabs to
use Heim joints. Then connect the Heim joints with a 1/2" round aluminum
rod drilled and tapped for the 1/4-20 threads of the Heim joints so that when
when the whole thing is assembled you have a parallelogram formed by the tabs
and links.
The system works well. If I were to do it over
again, the only change I would make would be to use a rear spreader bar with
a little thicker wall so that it is not as apt to bend under loading.
Hope this is helpful in your decision.
John
===================================
Thanks Jack. Perhaps I will try to find two 8 inch pieces
of pipe that can slip tightly into my axle - position them so there's about
4 inches of pipe on either side of the holes - and drill them through.
This will double the thickness of the axle in that critical area acting as reinforcement
in case there is a exceptionally hard landing.
Dave Paulsen
----- Original Message -----
From: <A title=jphillip(at)alarismed.com ">Phillips, Jack
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Torque Tube Rod
Dave,
The guide pins dont have to be welded.
However, just putting a hole through the axle causes a stress concentration.
My axle broke at the guide pin, but my axle was only .120 wall.
My new axle will be .188 wall, and I will have it heat treated after welding
to raise the yield strength to 105,000 psi, which will make it about 50% stronger
(and 8 lbs lighter) than a .25 wall axle non-heat treated. I am
also going to change the design of the guide pins to allow the holes through
the axle to be on the neutral axis so any stress concentrations caused by the
holes will not matter.
Jack Phillips
Slowly beginning to repair NX899JP
-----Original Message-----
Why does the bolt or rod that some of us have
put though our straight though axles have to be welded? I'm probably missing
something obvious but I don't know what.The rodcan't jump
out of the axle because there is a nut at the bottom that will prevent it
from coming up through the torque tube. Thanks. Dave Paulsen
From: "John Dilatush" <dilatush(at)amigo.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Torque Tube Rod
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2004 18:53:53 +0000
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--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_5435_1110316130_2--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Dilatush" <dilatush(at)amigo.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Torque Tube Rod |
----- Original Message -----
From: alexms1(at)comcast.net
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2005 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Torque Tube Rod
Alex,
I am not sure now since I sold Mountain Piet and can't measure the diameter of
the spreader bars on the plane.
I also sent the buyer, Greg Bacon, the plans for the plane. However, if my aging
memory is correct, I followed the sizes shown on the plans. I think if you
increased the diameter/wall thickness from that shown by maybe 25% you will
be ok. Even if you follow the sizes shown, there is no real problem, the spreader
bar simply bends a little more under a braking load
John
John,
I am still studying your words of wisdom so when I get to my axle installation,
I will have good info to work from. Your comment about "next time using spreader
bars with thicker walls", what did you use and what would you go to?
Thanks so much.
Alex Sloan
-------------- Original message --------------
----- Original Message -----
From: David Paulsen
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2004 5:06 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Torque Tube Rod
Dave,
Pardon me for jumping into this discussion about how to keep the straight
axle from rotating when the brakes are applied.
May I suggest an alternative method of doing this so that the axle is free
to move in any direction without excessive strain on welded joints? I also
believe that the integrity of the axle is not compromised by cutting a hole through
it and I think this is a lighter solution to the problem.
I have attached a photo of the installation on my ex- "Mountain Piet". You
just weld a couple of 3" tabs on the top and bottom of the axle in the middle.
Do the same thing on the rear spreader bar. Now drill some 1/4" holes at
the top and bottom of the tabs to use Heim joints. Then connect the Heim joints
with a 1/2" round aluminum rod drilled and tapped for the 1/4-20 threads of
the Heim joints so that when when the whole thing is assembled you have a parallelogram
formed by the tabs and links.
The system works well. If I were to do it over again, the only change I
would make would be to use a rear spreader bar with a little thicker wall so that
it is not as apt to bend under loading.
Hope this is helpful in your decision.
John
Thanks Jack. Perhaps I will try to find two 8 inch pieces of pipe that can
slip tightly into my axle - position them so there's about 4 inches of pipe
on either side of the holes - and drill them through. This will double the thickness
of the axle in that critical area acting as reinforcement in case there
is a exceptionally hard landing.
Dave Paulsen
----- Original Message -----
From: Phillips, Jack
To: 'pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com'
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2004 7:10 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Torque Tube Rod
Dave,
The guide pins don't have to be welded. However, just putting a hole through
the axle causes a stress concentration. My axle broke at the guide pin,
but my axle was only .120" wall. My new axle will be .188" wall, and I will
have it heat treated after welding to raise the yield strength to 105,000 psi,
which will make it about 50% stronger (and 8 lbs lighter) than a .25" wall axle
non-heat treated. I am also going to change the design of the guide pins
to allow the holes through the axle to be on the neutral axis so any stress concentrations
caused by the holes will not matter.
Jack Phillips
Slowly beginning to repair NX899JP
-----Original Message-----
Why does the bolt or rod that some of us have put though our straight though
axles have to be welded? I'm probably missing something obvious but I don't
know what. The rod can't jump out of the axle because there is a nut at
the bottom that will prevent it from coming up through the torque tube. Thanks.
Dave Paulsen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Phillips, Jack" <jphillip(at)alarismed.com> |
Being somewhat interested in alternative ways to carry braking loads, I
just ran some numbers to see which would be of more benefit when using
John's design - thicker walls or larger diameter for the spreader bars.
I ran some quick calculations, assuming my memory is correct and the
plans call for 1" x .035" wall tubing for the spreader bars. I don't
have my plans here so I can't check them.
Anyway, if you started with 1" x .035 and wanted to go one step bigger,
you could either go to 1" x .049 or 1-1/8" x .035. The larger O.D.
would be preferable, for a couple of reasons:
1. The larger OD will give a higher section modulus (measure of
torsional stiffness) - about 44% more than the original size, whereas
the thicker wall will only give an increase of about 34%
2. The larger OD with .035" wall is lighter than the original OD
with .049" wall
3. The larger OD tubing with .035" wall is cheaper than the
original OD with .049" wall
4. The thinner wall section is easier to flatten on the ends
(which the spreader bars require) than the thicker material would be.
Jack Phillips
Raleigh, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: alexms1(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Torque Tube Rod
Alex,
I am not sure now since I sold Mountain Piet and can't measure the
diameter of the spreader bars on the plane.
I also sent the buyer, Greg Bacon, the plans for the plane. However, if
my aging memory is correct, I followed the sizes shown on the plans. I
think if you increased the diameter/wall thickness from that shown by
maybe 25% you will be ok. Even if you follow the sizes shown, there is
no real problem, the spreader bar simply bends a little more under a
braking load
John
John,
I am still studying your words of wisdom so when I get to my axle
installation, I will have good info to work from. Your comment about
"next time using spreader bars with thicker walls", what did you use and
what would you go to?
Thanks so much.
Alex Sloan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
Anybody have a set of left and right exhaust stacks for a Continental
A-65/Aeronca 7AC for sale? It turns out that both the right and left stacks
on 41CC got bent in the nose-over and I'll probably replace both. Repairs
coming along nicely...
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isablcorky(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Some aerodynamic stuff |
Pieters,
As I build my engine mount jig some little questions have popped into this
ole brain. I remember from a long time ago, maybe flight school or somewhere,
that the downthrust angle on the engine is to force a more direct blast on the
lower surface of the wing.(High, single wing).
Now as I plan to extend the mount a full 2 inches forward of the plans and
lengthen the cabanes another 2 inches over the plans.
It would seem to me that it would be necessary to drop the engine incidence
to compensate for these changes.
Now those of you in the know please advise. I'm laying out the jig for a 4
degree downthrust measured from the firewall and a wing incidence of 1 degree
30'.
Sure would appreciate some help on this one. I promise to leave the list
alone for the future.
Corky in La nursing Isabelle with a strep throat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Blackwell <aerialphotos(at)dp.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Some aerodynamic stuff |
What you are referring to is called P factor. With airplane at cruise
attitude both blades generate about the same thrust, but with a higher
angle of attack the downward blade gets a bigger bite of air than the
upward blade and thus creates more thrust. For most airplanes that
means the airplane wants to turn left and one of the reasons you need
right rudder on take off.
Moving the engine from the design point would definately change the
impact of this on the airplane, but how much and how you compensate for
it is beyond my knowledge base
Mark
Isablcorky(at)aol.com wrote:
> Pieters,
>
> As I build my engine mount jig some little questions have popped into
> this ole brain. I remember from a long time ago, maybe flight school
> or somewhere, that the downthrust angle on the engine is to force a
> more direct blast on the lower surface of the wing.(High, single wing).
> Now as I plan to extend the mount a full 2 inches forward of the plans
> and lengthen the cabanes another 2 inches over the plans.
> It would seem to me that it would be necessary to drop the engine
> incidence to compensate for these changes.
> Now those of you in the know please advise. I'm laying out the jig for
> a 4 degree downthrust measured from the firewall and a wing incidence
> of 1 degree 30'.
> Sure would appreciate some help on this one. I promise to leave the
> list alone for the future.
> Corky in La nursing Isabelle with a strep throat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pilots4ETW(at)wmconnect.com |
I'm thinking of putting a couple layers of Kevlar on the fuselage tank I'm
building to offer more safety over a simple fiberglass tank. I read in the Wicks
catalog that Kevlar is 2.5 times stronger than E glass, and 10 times stronger
than aluminum on a specific tensile strength basis.
The problem is I don't want to invest in a pair of $60 scissors that will
probably be used one time. Does anybody have any experience in cutting Kevlar
with a regular pair of scissors or is there an alternative to the $60 version?
Roy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Markle" <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
I have experience cutting Kevlar and the scissors are an absolute must.
But don't buy any. I have a pair sitting here collecting dust and would be glad
to loan them to you.
Send me an SASE (and promise that you'll return them!) and you're welcome to borrow
them.
If you decide to buy some for yourself, don't buy the $60 ones....get the $26 ones from ACP (http://www.acp-composites.com/acp-ta.htm)
Jim Markle
Plano, TX
214.505.6101
----- Original Message -----
From: Pilots4ETW(at)wmconnect.com
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 11, 2005 5:14 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Kevlar
I'm thinking of putting a couple layers of Kevlar on the fuselage tank I'm building
to offer more safety over a simple fiberglass tank. I read in the Wicks
catalog that Kevlar is 2.5 times stronger than E glass, and 10 times stronger
than aluminum on a specific tensile strength basis.
The problem is I don't want to invest in a pair of $60 scissors that will probably
be used one time. Does anybody have any experience in cutting Kevlar with
a regular pair of scissors or is there an alternative to the $60 version?
Roy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walt evans" <wbeevans(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Some aerodynamic stuff |
Corky,
My take on the down thrust of the engine is since the plane wing normally flies
with some positive incidence, the engine/prop is flying with zero incidence.
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: Isablcorky(at)aol.com
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2005 7:57 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Some aerodynamic stuff
Pieters,
As I build my engine mount jig some little questions have popped into this ole
brain. I remember from a long time ago, maybe flight school or somewhere, that
the downthrust angle on the engine is to force a more direct blast on the lower
surface of the wing.(High, single wing).
Now as I plan to extend the mount a full 2 inches forward of the plans and lengthen
the cabanes another 2 inches over the plans.
It would seem to me that it would be necessary to drop the engine incidence to
compensate for these changes.
Now those of you in the know please advise. I'm laying out the jig for a 4 degree
downthrust measured from the firewall and a wing incidence of 1 degree 30'.
Sure would appreciate some help on this one. I promise to leave the list alone
for the future.
Corky in La nursing Isabelle with a strep throat
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gbowen(at)ptialaska.net" <gbowen(at)ptialaska.net> |
I've worked a fair amount in the composites industry with Kevlar, so here's
my two cents worth. 1) Don't think Kevlar is gonna give you what you're
looking for in terms of accident damage to your tank over glass, especially
using only a couple plies over the glass core, 2) if you impact something,
that pokes a hole in your gas tank, you're gonna have a leak whether it's
covered with Kevlar or not, the resin system will shatter and leak at the
damage spot, 3) Kevlar is very hard to work with for two reasons, a: it
cuts very difficult therefore needing the special cutting tools, so you
gotta shell out the $60+ bucks, b: it has a lot more filaments per tow
bundle than glass so it consumes more resin per square foot to wet these
bundles out. 3) Kevlar has a tendency to separate from the glass plies.
The composites shop folks at Lufthansa used to get new 737/747 engine
cowlings from their supplier in the US that had a Kevlar inter-ply to
prevent jet engine vanes from shooting thru the cowling into the fuselage.
I watched them remove the Kevlar ply, just like peel ply, and toss it away,
because subsequent repairs to the cowling wouldn't stick. Kevlar has a
couple nice advantages, a) stronger than fiberglass or carbon, b) lighter
than either one.
Gordon Bowen
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Pilots4ETW(at)wmconnect.com
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 06:14:17 EST
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Kevlar
I'm thinking of putting a couple layers of Kevlar on the fuselage tank I'm
building to offer more safety over a simple fiberglass tank. I read in the
Wicks
catalog that Kevlar is 2.5 times stronger than E glass, and 10 times
stronger
than aluminum on a specific tensile strength basis.
The problem is I don't want to invest in a pair of $60 scissors that will
probably be used one time. Does anybody have any experience in cutting
Kevlar
with a regular pair of scissors or is there an alternative to the $60
version?
Roy
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 3/11/2005 5:15:56 AM Central Standard Time,
Pilots4ETW(at)wmconnect.com writes:
I'm thinking of putting a couple layers of Kevlar on the fuselage tank I'm
building to offer more safety over a simple fiberglass tank. I read in the Wicks
catalog that Kevlar is 2.5 times stronger than E glass, and 10 times stronger
than aluminum on a specific tensile strength basis.
The problem is I don't want to invest in a pair of $60 scissors that will
probably be used one time. Does anybody have any experience in cutting Kevlar
with a regular pair of scissors or is there an alternative to the $60 version?
Roy & Sterling,
I agree with Gordon. I don't think the effort to use Kevlar in with the
lay-ups of Fiberglass is worth it. Kevlar is the most abrasion resistant
material of all the composite materials...that's why it's used in bullet proof
vests. It is a LOT more expensive, hard to cut, difficult to wet out. You're
trying to build 'Crashworthyness' into your plane...much better to build
'Airworthyness' into it. There are two types of Fiberglass: E-glass is used where
electrical resistance is the requirement, and S-glass is used when strength is
the requirement. Of all the composite materials, Carbon Fiber is the
strongest in compression, but offers poorest in abrasion resistance, therefore
each
type of material has it's place in a given design, in addition to the type of
resin.
I used Omni-direction Kevlar on the leading edge (about 1/2" wide), for
'tipping material', on the 3 props that I've built, because of it's abrasion
resistance. Then wrapped the entire blade with one layer of the light weight
fiberglass, all the way to the root. I used Polyester Resin (auto body stuff)
on the props. Epoxy Resin, such as the 'West System', is the preferred type of
resin for fuel, oil, and chemical resistant applications.
Chuck G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pilots4ETW(at)wmconnect.com |
So, 4 layers of Kevlar over two layers of fiberglass in a fuel tank build up
(in a Pietenpol having the fuel tank a few feet away from the pilot, in a
wooden airplane) does not add any safety? In looking at a search of Kevlar=20fuel
tanks on the internet, many folks riding pocket rockets (fast motorcycles) are
switching to Kevlar gas tanks so they don't cook their nuts over an open fire.
Also, the radio control airplane people are using Kevlar gas tanks so their
expensive RC airplanes don't cook upon hard landings. And, many law enforcement
groups using Ford Crown Victorias are now using Kevlar so their officers
don't burn if rear ended.
Here are some links.
https://commerce67.datapipe.com/eraaviation/hs_gc_as_aux_fuel.stm
Era's Enhanced
External Auxiliary Fuel System
for Bell 412/212/205/UH-1H/V/N
Two externally mounted "Kevlar=C2=AE" fuel tanks providing an additional 140
gallons of usable fuel, extending endurance by 1.5 hours meets FAR 29.952 NPRM
crashworthiness criteria.
http://www.f1technical.net/article19.html
Fuel tank F1 cars use fuel tanks made from puncture-proof Kevlar. This
dramatically reduces the risk of any fire during an accident. The tank reshapes
itself in the area where any pressure is being put.
http://www.benlovejoy.com/concorde/crash.html
Third, the fuel tanks. The bottom of several of the fuel tanks were lined
with rubber-kevlar shielding, both to reduce the risk of debris reaching the
fuel, and to dramatically reduce the rate at which fuel would flow out through
a
leak.
http://www.amerindustrial.com/article.htm
Amer Industrial Technologies Inc., has designed a fire-resistant fuel tank
system for the Long Island Railroad that will allow tank full of fuel without
risking the spill of fuel or fumes in an accident. Ahmad Amer=E2=80=99s=20=E2=80=9Cbullet-proof=E2=80=9D
rail-road car, lined by a puncture-resistant bladder made of Du Pont Co.=E2=80=99s
Kevlar, can carry 500 pounds of fuel and withstand a collision with a load of up
to 250,000 pounds. Kevlar is the same material used in making bullet-proof
vests.
http://www.mustang50magazine.com/roadtests/4288/
The cars were shipped from the DAP facility to Mascotech for installation of
the special custom HD cooling system and the special 20-gallon Kevlar fuel
cell. Those who raced the 1993 Cobra R complained of too small a fuel tank,
forcing extra fuel stops in endurance races that cost them time and position on
the
track compared to the Camaros.
http://www.autosafety.org/article.php?scid141&did813
On Friday, with the cooperation of Ford, Florida state troopers began
installing Kevlar-reinforced tubs in their trunks, which are designed to organize
equipment so items don't shoot forward in a crash and puncture the gas tank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tmbrant1(at)netzero.com" <tmbrant1(at)netzero.com> |
test only - sorry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walt evans" <wbeevans(at)verizon.net> |
I received it.
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: <tmbrant1(at)netzero.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: email test
>
>
> test only - sorry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walt evans" <wbeevans(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: A-65 exhausts |
Oscar,
I made mine from "J.C. Whitneys" VW bypass exhaust pipes, for about $9.95
for two. The VW flange is the same as the continental, and by cutting up
the pipes, that are shaped like candy canes, with a little cutting/welding
and a little work you can have them for $10.00. You may have to add some
stock pipe from the auto store ( 1 1/4",,,I think)
walt evans
NX140DL
PS quite a few hours,,,and nothing flew off yet.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: A-65 exhausts
>
> Anybody have a set of left and right exhaust stacks for a Continental
> A-65/Aeronca 7AC for sale? It turns out that both the right and left
stacks
> on 41CC got bent in the nose-over and I'll probably replace both. Repairs
> coming along nicely...
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tmbrant1(at)netzero.com" <tmbrant1(at)netzero.com> |
| Subject: | sanding glue joints |
In the advisory circular "acceptable methods.." section 1-6 "preparation of wood
surfaces for bonding" it states that sandpaper must never be used to smooth
softwood surfaces that are to be bonded. I built my fuselage by cutting the braces
on the table saw to a rough dimension and using a stationary disc sander
to get just the right fit. Does this mean that I'm building an expensive 2-seat
piece of firewood?
I did the same with the ribs I've been building.
Any thoughts on this?
Tom Brant
Brooklyn Park, MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: sanding glue joints |
Tom, you are doing fine. Some will not agree, but
glue two pieces of spruce (both sanded) as in a test
joint and then cut through the joint and see just how
far the glue absorbs into the wood. If you are using
T-88 or evuivalent, then you will get good penetration
whether you sand or not. I did mine both ways (sanded
or saw mitered) and found no difference in the
strength of the joints.
Doc
--- "tmbrant1(at)netzero.com"
wrote:
> "tmbrant1(at)netzero.com"
>
>
> In the advisory circular "acceptable methods.."
> section 1-6 "preparation of wood surfaces for
> bonding" it states that sandpaper must never be used
> to smooth softwood surfaces that are to be bonded.
> I built my fuselage by cutting the braces on the
> table saw to a rough dimension and using a
> stationary disc sander to get just the right fit.
> Does this mean that I'm building an expensive 2-seat
> piece of firewood?
>
> I did the same with the ribs I've been building.
>
> Any thoughts on this?
>
> Tom Brant
> Brooklyn Park, MN
>
>
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pietenpol Video Documentry |
To all you Pietenpol Enthusiasts,
I've started doing this video on the building and flying the Pietenpol
Aircamper, and I'm asking everyone to make suggestions as to what I should
include in the video. Sterling Brooks has been VERY helpful to me on this
project...Thank You Sterling !!
To introduce the video, I think I will go over some of the reasons that
folks have always had the urge to fly. I will also go into the history of the
Pietenpol, with information found on the Pietenpol Family Web Site. A part=20of
that history, is that the plans sold by the Pietenpol Family is the exact
plans drawn up by Orrin Hoopman, and designed by Bernard Harold Pietenpol. =20This
is the reason I am against updating the original plans. It's part of the rich
history of our beloved design. However, in my video, I am going to go over
each of the errors, and not so clear points on the plans, that need to be
clarified. I will also mention all the pertinent documents, and books, that the
builder needs to study, as well as all the hints & tips that I can think of. I
will include a method of tying the bunji chords. I will also include the need
to use the strap fittings on the belly, between the Landing Gear Lugs / Lift
Strut Fittings. Today, I carried the camera around with me, during a
pre-flight, and talked about each item I was inspecting...then the camera battery
went
dead. I'm also going to do quite a bit of aerial view points with the camera
with background music, and some ground based shots of take offs, and
landings...I hope I can grease a few landings for the camera !!
As far as the errors go, here are the ones that I know of :
Drawing No. 3 - lower left hand corner, the Bottom Fitting Plates show a
dashed line that says 'BEND UP 20=BA HERE.' It should read BEND UP 30=BA HERE,
or
Maintain alignment with the Lift Struts.
Drawing No. 4 - in the lower left corner, the drawing of the Center Strut
Fittings (to of the Cabane Struts) is unclear that there are but TWO pieces, that
overlap each other, kind of a U into a U. It is NOT three pieces.
Drawing No. 4 - Flying Strut Fittings 4 Req'd The angle of the strut
fittings should be installed in line with the lift struts, not at the sharp=20angle
called out in the plans.
Drawing No. 5 - the Measurements of Wing Rib Profile, there are a couple of
measurements that are a little short, and cause the top profile of the rib to
dip in. You should loft these points on your rib jig, then just blend the
crooked line on the top, so it is a smooth transition.
Drawing No. 5 - the Wing Beam Details (Main Spars) show an outdated method of
splicing the spars, and not recognized by AC43.13. The correct method of
scarf splice is called out in that AC.
Can anyone point out any other areas of the plans that are not clear ?
Any other suggestions on what I should include in the video ?
Should I include all the infomation I have about builders and flyers ?
How about an overview about building a prop ?
I hope to put together a useful, and enjoyable DVD, but I'm not going to
release it until it is 'Just Right'.
Chuck Gantzer
NX770CG
itching to burn some DVD's
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | sanding glue joints |
As Doc says, the best thing to do is to make some test joints and then break
them. IF you get a clean break at the glue line, the joint is no good. If
you get a messy break with lots of wood fibers broken, indicating the wood
broke before the glue did, you can't ask for a stronger joint.
My Piet was built mostly with resorcinol, with T-88 in some places. A few
tips I learned along the way (through breaking test joints) are:
When properly made, a resorcinol joint is incredibly strong
When improperly made, a resorcinol joint is not very strong
T-88 is more forgiving than resorcinol, but cleanup is messier
T-88 is quite strong for butt joints. Resorcinol is not.
When making plywood doublers for use with either type of glue, you get a
better joint if you roughen the surface of the plywood with coarse
sandpaper. This is especially true for birch plywood, which has a very
smooth "sheen" that prevents good wetting by the glue.
Good tight fitting joints are essential with resorcinol. T-88 can stand
some (small) gap, but don't think it will let you get away with sloppy
construction
As for what the advisory circular says, I wonder if they were talking about
the hard sheen you sometimes see after using a belt sander on softwood? In
my experience, it is hard to get glue to penetrate such a sheen. I found
that roughing parts up, particularly for butt joints like the uprights in a
rib, gives a better joint.
Just my two cents, but after finishing up the structural repairs of my
Pietenpol from last fall's forced landing, I've had a lot of glue joints to
have to break. I've been very pleased with the results, and with the
overall structural integrity of the craft.
Jack Phillips
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Galen
Hutcheson
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: sanding glue joints
Tom, you are doing fine. Some will not agree, but
glue two pieces of spruce (both sanded) as in a test
joint and then cut through the joint and see just how
far the glue absorbs into the wood. If you are using
T-88 or evuivalent, then you will get good penetration whether you sand or
not. I did mine both ways (sanded or saw mitered) and found no difference
in the strength of the joints.
Doc
--- "tmbrant1(at)netzero.com" wrote:
> "tmbrant1(at)netzero.com"
>
>
> In the advisory circular "acceptable methods.."
> section 1-6 "preparation of wood surfaces for
> bonding" it states that sandpaper must never be used
> to smooth softwood surfaces that are to be bonded.
> I built my fuselage by cutting the braces on the
> table saw to a rough dimension and using a
> stationary disc sander to get just the right fit.
> Does this mean that I'm building an expensive 2-seat
> piece of firewood?
>
> I did the same with the ribs I've been building.
>
> Any thoughts on this?
>
> Tom Brant
> Brooklyn Park, MN
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
__________________________________
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <gcardinal(at)mn.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: sanding glue joints |
Hi Tom,
Don't throw away anything you've already
built. I did test samples on both sanded and
unsanded joints, including some using birch
ply with the "manufacturing glaze" still
intact. Tests included both T-88 and
Aerolite. I even made some intentionally bad
joints that fit poorly and didn't have 100%
glue coverage.
Not one single glue joint broke.
Just follow "acceptable methods" for the rest
of the project.
Greg Cardinal
Minneapolis
----- Original Message -----
From: <tmbrant1(at)netzero.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: sanding glue joints
> "tmbrant1(at)netzero.com"
>
>
>
> In the advisory circular "acceptable
> methods.." section 1-6 "preparation of wood
> surfaces for bonding" it states that
> sandpaper must never be used to smooth
> softwood surfaces that are to be bonded. I
> built my fuselage by cutting the braces on
> the table saw to a rough dimension and
> using a stationary disc sander to get just
> the right fit. Does this mean that I'm
> building an expensive 2-seat piece of
> firewood?
>
> I did the same with the ribs I've been
> building.
>
> Any thoughts on this?
>
> Tom Brant
> Brooklyn Park, MN
>
>
> Forum -
> through the Contributions
> banner ads or any other
> Matronics Forums.
> pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/search
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol Video Documentry |
Chuck, all the things you mentioned are excellent.
One error I found was at the lower cross-member at the
firewall. How do you attach it? At the intended
attach points, there are the metal fittings for the
engine mount (Model A) which would hinder the
attchment. Also, methods on building a prop would be
great. I think this video would be real helpful.
Doc
--- Rcaprd(at)aol.com wrote:
> To all you Pietenpol Enthusiasts,
> I've started doing this video on the building
> and flying the Pietenpol
> Aircamper, and I'm asking everyone to make
> suggestions as to what I should
> include in the video. Sterling Brooks has been VERY
> helpful to me on this
> project...Thank You Sterling !!
> To introduce the video, I think I will go over
> some of the reasons that
> folks have always had the urge to fly. I will also
> go into the history of the
> Pietenpol, with information found on the Pietenpol
> Family Web Site. A part of
> that history, is that the plans sold by the
> Pietenpol Family is the exact
> plans drawn up by Orrin Hoopman, and designed by
> Bernard Harold Pietenpol. This
> is the reason I am against updating the original
> plans. It's part of the rich
> history of our beloved design. However, in my
> video, I am going to go over
> each of the errors, and not so clear points on the
> plans, that need to be
> clarified. I will also mention all the pertinent
> documents, and books, that the
> builder needs to study, as well as all the hints &
> tips that I can think of. I
> will include a method of tying the bunji chords. I
> will also include the need
> to use the strap fittings on the belly, between the
> Landing Gear Lugs / Lift
> Strut Fittings. Today, I carried the camera around
> with me, during a
> pre-flight, and talked about each item I was
> inspecting...then the camera battery went
> dead. I'm also going to do quite a bit of aerial
> view points with the camera
> with background music, and some ground based shots
> of take offs, and
> landings...I hope I can grease a few landings for
> the camera !!
>
> As far as the errors go, here are the ones that I
> know of :
> Drawing No. 3 - lower left hand corner, the Bottom
> Fitting Plates show a
> dashed line that says 'BEND UP 20 HERE.' It
> should read BEND UP 30 HERE, or
> Maintain alignment with the Lift Struts.
> Drawing No. 4 - in the lower left corner, the
> drawing of the Center Strut
> Fittings (to of the Cabane Struts) is unclear that
> there are but TWO pieces, that
> overlap each other, kind of a U into a U. It is
> NOT three pieces.
> Drawing No. 4 - Flying Strut Fittings 4 Req'd The
> angle of the strut
> fittings should be installed in line with the lift
> struts, not at the sharp angle
> called out in the plans.
> Drawing No. 5 - the Measurements of Wing Rib
> Profile, there are a couple of
> measurements that are a little short, and cause the
> top profile of the rib to
> dip in. You should loft these points on your rib
> jig, then just blend the
> crooked line on the top, so it is a smooth
> transition.
> Drawing No. 5 - the Wing Beam Details (Main Spars)
> show an outdated method of
> splicing the spars, and not recognized by AC43.13.
> The correct method of
> scarf splice is called out in that AC.
>
> Can anyone point out any other areas of the plans
> that are not clear ?
>
> Any other suggestions on what I should include in
> the video ?
>
> Should I include all the infomation I have about
> builders and flyers ?
>
> How about an overview about building a prop ?
>
> I hope to put together a useful, and enjoyable DVD,
> but I'm not going to
> release it until it is 'Just Right'.
>
> Chuck Gantzer
> NX770CG
> itching to burn some DVD's
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol Video Documentry |
Great idea Chuck, I will certainly purchase one.
> To all you Pietenpol Enthusiasts,
> I've started doing this video on the building and flying the Pietenpol
> Aircamper, and I'm asking everyone to make suggestions as to what I should
> include in the video. Sterling Brooks has been VERY helpful to me on this
> project...Thank You Sterling !!
> Can anyone point out any other areas of the plans that are not clear ?
1) Since a good percentage of Piets are not built with Model A engines
several wood parts on the front of the fuselage are not needed. May
want to point this out.
2) Seat belt attachments, everybody does it different, still don't how
I will do mine, showing a couple proven ways to do this would be
great.
3) Flying struts - this is my biggest unknown, if using 4130 the plans
are fairly clear but it seems many do their ends attachments
differently. Many people are using Aluminum struts also because of the
high cost of steel streamline tubing and are also using different end
attachments. People may value your flight-proven opinions on this.
4) Brakes, everyone knows what an installed set of brakes and wheels
look like but a video segment of a wheel/rotor/caliper/etc being taken
apart and put back together would help a lot of people. Especially
since brakes are not on the plans.
>
> Any other suggestions on what I should include in the video ?
>
> Should I include all the infomation I have about builders and flyers ?
>
I would say put it in, especially since you are going with a DVD media
if someone is not interested in a topic its simple to skip it unlike
a tape where you may have to fast forward for 5 minutes.
> How about an overview about building a prop ?
Yes
>
> I hope to put together a useful, and enjoyable DVD, but I'm not going to
> release it until it is 'Just Right'.
>
> Chuck Gantzer
> NX770CG
> itching to burn some DVD's
--
Rick Holland
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol Video Documentry |
In a message dated 3/13/2005 10:53:12 AM Central Standard Time,
wacopitts(at)yahoo.com writes:
One error I found was at the lower cross-member at the
firewall. How do you attach it? At the intended
attach points, there are the metal fittings for the
engine mount (Model A) which would hinder the
attchment.
Doc,
The cross-member (3/4 X 3/4 Spruce) is shown on Drawing No. 1, in the
lower right portion. It goes between the inbd side of each of the lower
longerons, but is cut short, to access the inboard bolts of the engine mount fitting.
The 1/8" plywood firewall is also the gusset for this cross-member, as well
as the 7/32" plywood bottom, and will carry the load. There is also a gusset
on the inbd side of each lower longeron, with a cut out for this lower
cross-member, called out on Drawing No. 4 - in the upper left portion of the drawing.
I think this might be the error. There should NOT be a cut out for the
cross-member, because the cross-member doesn't extend all the way to the longerons.
Gussets like this one, and others like it on the lower longerons, should
have a filler piece installed, to prevent dirt or water from collecting between
the inboard gussets, and plywood sides, on each side of the lower longerons.
On Drawing 6 - lower left portion - shows the lower Model A engine mount.
This is a good point to clerify on the plans. The plans note - LOWER INSIDE
FITTING INSERTED THRU FRONT BULKHEAD. CUT OFF END OF CROSS STRUT. This
would be required to install one of the nuts on the inside of the fitting.
Good point, Doc !! Lets hear more like this.
Chuck G.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rhartwig11(at)juno.com |
Tom,
Ref your message: "I built my fuselage by cutting the braces on the
table saw to a rough dimension and using a stationary disc sander to get
just the right fit."
I assume that you are sanding the ends of the pieces to get the correct
angle. That is OK--most builders do it. The strength of these joints
comes from the gussets. End grain joints are notoriously weak. It is
even perfectly acceptable to build ribs with all of the bracing cut at a
90 degree angle, thus getting 100% of the strength from the gusset. By
the way, be sure to scuff your plywood lightly with sandpaper before
gluing.
Dick Hartwig
Waunakee, WI
rhartwig11(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tmbrant1(at)netzero.com" <tmbrant1(at)netzero.com> |
I think I understand the sanding the plywood... I've made several ribs and on
a few occasions, had some extra glue. So I made test pieces. As you mentioned,
I made one with the braces at 90 deg. cuts and the other were tight joints.
The one without any end grain contact (gussets only) actually broke free of
the gussets quite easily. I have not tried it with sanding the plywood.
All of the ribs I've made do not have plywood that is sanded. Should I scrap them
(8 ribs)? The other test I did had tight fitting joints and the wood broke
first on that one. Then tonight I put a lot of pressure just outside the gussets
and the brace came free of the top capstrip. IT had wood fibres in it but
it broke at the glue line...
Tom B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Blackwell <aerialphotos(at)dp.net> |
Well I keep looking for an all wood construction airplane that I can fit
in at 6ft 1 and about 220. I recently sat in a Piet that I think was
built using Bernards plans and I simply didn't fit. I saw some plans
from St. Croix Aircraft including some interesting plans for a bi plane
version.
Are these any larger? Id be interested to know if anyone had flown the
biplane version.
Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walt evans" <wbeevans(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Different Piets |
<4235007F.1080500(at)dp.net>
Mark,
I built the long fuse from the 1934 plans ( with the long fuse added prints)
and I'm 6' 3" 220#. It fits for me!
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Blackwell" <aerialphotos(at)dp.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Different Piets
>
> Well I keep looking for an all wood construction airplane that I can fit
> in at 6ft 1 and about 220. I recently sat in a Piet that I think was
> built using Bernards plans and I simply didn't fit. I saw some plans
> from St. Croix Aircraft including some interesting plans for a bi plane
> version.
>
> Are these any larger? Id be interested to know if anyone had flown the
> biplane version.
>
> Mark
>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Different Piets |
Mark, many (including myself) have modified the width
of the fuse to make the cockpit more user friendly. I
am building a biplane version (my own design) using
the Piet fuse and ribs. The great thing about the
Piet is it's versitility. You should find many
discussions on this topic via the search engine. The
Piet is a great plane in it's own right, but it is
easy to use it as a spring board for other designs.
Doc
>
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol Video Documentry |
Thanks Chuck, that was a little confusing on the
plans. The cross member is only going to act as a
stiffner for the ply attached to it since it isn't
directly attached to the longerones. You could run 45
degree angle braces from the verticals at the bulkhead
down to the cross member and this would allow it to
have some structural integrity, may not be needed,
however. I enclosed all my gussetts with balsa strips
creating a sealed box to keep dirt and water from
collecting near the joints.
Doc
--- Rcaprd(at)aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 3/13/2005 10:53:12 AM Central
> Standard Time,
> wacopitts(at)yahoo.com writes:
> One error I found was at the lower cross-member at
> the
> firewall. How do you attach it? At the intended
> attach points, there are the metal fittings for the
> engine mount (Model A) which would hinder the
> attchment.
> Doc,
> The cross-member (3/4 X 3/4 Spruce) is shown on
> Drawing No. 1, in the
> lower right portion. It goes between the inbd side
> of each of the lower
> longerons, but is cut short, to access the inboard
> bolts of the engine mount fitting.
> The 1/8" plywood firewall is also the gusset for
> this cross-member, as well
> as the 7/32" plywood bottom, and will carry the
> load. There is also a gusset
> on the inbd side of each lower longeron, with a cut
> out for this lower
> cross-member, called out on Drawing No. 4 - in the
> upper left portion of the drawing.
> I think this might be the error. There should NOT
> be a cut out for the
> cross-member, because the cross-member doesn't
> extend all the way to the longerons.
> Gussets like this one, and others like it on the
> lower longerons, should
> have a filler piece installed, to prevent dirt or
> water from collecting between
> the inboard gussets, and plywood sides, on each side
> of the lower longerons.
> On Drawing 6 - lower left portion - shows the
> lower Model A engine mount.
> This is a good point to clerify on the plans. The
> plans note - LOWER INSIDE
> FITTING INSERTED THRU FRONT BULKHEAD. CUT OFF END
> OF CROSS STRUT. This
> would be required to install one of the nuts on the
> inside of the fitting.
>
> Good point, Doc !! Lets hear more like this.
>
> Chuck G.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | painting metal parts |
Group;
I've had problems painting metal parts, both steel and aluminum. Some parts
will take the paint perfectly, but other times it's as if there is something
on the metal that repels the paint and I get little voids and imperfections.
Cleaning with hot soapy water, MEK, alcohol, or degreaser don't seem to
make any difference... there are little areas that just won't take the
paint.
Is this maybe some silicone from a cleaning rag, or something in the pores
of the metal? Any ideas?
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | painting metal parts |
Oscar,
I had good results using the PolyFiber products. The procedures are
different depending on the metal. For steel:
a. Beadblast the parts to get all welding scale and any rust off. even
clean metal can benefit from beadblasting as it gives a little more "tooth"
for the primer
b. Clean with PloyFiber's Met-L-Sol
c. Prime with PolyFiber's Epoxy Primer. I find the green works better than
the white. Once cured, this stuff is bulletproof
d. Paint with whatever top coat you want. If you use their Aerothane
polyurethane, you will find it produces an extremtly hard, durable finish
For aluminum:
a. Clean the parts with PolyFiber's Alkaline Cleaner
b. Etch with PolyFiber's Phosphoric Acid etch
c. Apply an Alodine coating. I didn't use PolyFiber's coating because
their's is a clear alodine and I prefer the gold alodine so you can see
where you have missed.
d. Epoxy Prime as above. The acid etch and alodine provides a finely
toothed surface and the primer just about jumps on the aluminum.
e. Top Coat as above. Once the primer is on, you can use any paint you wish
PolyFiber's products are very expensive (that epoxy primer is about $65 for
a quart kit, which makes about 1-1/2 qts), but this is the part of your
project that will really show. If you did a world class job on the woodwork
and then the paintjob looks like crap, the whole airplane will look like
crap.
Jack
Finally finished with structural repairs on NX899JP and starting to do
fabric work.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Oscar
Zuniga
Subject: Pietenpol-List: painting metal parts
Group;
I've had problems painting metal parts, both steel and aluminum. Some parts
will take the paint perfectly, but other times it's as if there is something
on the metal that repels the paint and I get little voids and imperfections.
Cleaning with hot soapy water, MEK, alcohol, or degreaser don't seem to
make any difference... there are little areas that just won't take the
paint.
Is this maybe some silicone from a cleaning rag, or something in the pores
of the metal? Any ideas?
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Different Piets |
Interesting Doc, a Piet biplane. I looked at the Aerial biplane plans
(and I assume you have also) but heard nothing but bad things about
it. I originally purchased FlyBaby plans and the FlyBaby biplane
supplemental plans which included a modified set of wing plans (both
wings) that bolted to the original fuselage with very little
modifications. Peter Bower claimed you could interchange the wings to
go from biplane to monoplane any time you wanted.
I originally wanted to build a biplane but couldn't find anything else
to beat the price/builder support/track record of the Piet. From what
I have heard the problem with the Aerial Piet biplane was too much
wing area because it kept the original wing and added a lower wing of
about the same size. The FlyBaby biplane used two different smaller
wings which were swept back like a Pitts, looks really good.
Sorry if you know all of this already, I think it would be incredible
if some industrious
person (like yourself) came up with a good biplane Piet design which
could be retro-fitted to existing Piets (like the FlyBaby biplane).
The best of both worlds. The FlyBaby plans also included additions for
adding floats. I know at least one person has successfully added
floats to their Piet, make those plans available as a supplement also
and you have a seriously versatile design.
I wish you the best of luck.
wrote:
>
> Mark, many (including myself) have modified the width
> of the fuse to make the cockpit more user friendly. I
> am building a biplane version (my own design) using
> the Piet fuse and ribs. The great thing about the
> Piet is it's versitility. You should find many
> discussions on this topic via the search engine. The
> Piet is a great plane in it's own right, but it is
> easy to use it as a spring board for other designs.
>
> Doc
--
Rick Holland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sterling" <sterling(at)pgrb.com> |
| Subject: | Re: painting metal parts |
Oscar:
When I built my Avid Flyer, I had to paint many aluminum and 4130 parts, not
to mention fiberglass. I used a 2 part epoxy primer. Everything went great.
I'd try the two part epoxy and stay away from Krylon or other primers in a
can.
One other problem, you have fairly high humidity in your area. You might
need to install a moisture guard on your airline. Here at Knot-2-Shabby we
have humidity too but not as bad as San Antonio. Here is a trick I learned
from an old-timer... I use a filter out of the compressor at 10 feet, then I
go out 25 feet, and installed a moisture guard I bought as Sears. Then I run
another 25 feet from the mositure guard to my gun (HLVP) and it helped the
moisture problem. (Don't ask me why the 25 feet-moisture guard-25 feet thing
works, I learned this trick from the paint shop here when I was spraying a
custom pickup I built in the 80s... Didn't have this problema in El Paso,
since there is no humidity there, but in Central Texas, wow.
Are you draining the sump daily on your compressor? (A great safety measure,
not to mention a way to keep excess water out oif the line.)
Also, I almost always add a fish-eye additive to my paint (in addition to a
hardener... in the color coat, not the primer) and the fish-eye additive is
VERY GOOD for the problem you described. I've never tried these additives in
anything other than enamels by the way.
Last, have you used any air tools needing oil? You might have a contaminated
oil line.
PLATA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: painting metal parts
>
> Group;
>
> I've had problems painting metal parts, both steel and aluminum. Some
parts
> will take the paint perfectly, but other times it's as if there is
something
> on the metal that repels the paint and I get little voids and
imperfections.
> Cleaning with hot soapy water, MEK, alcohol, or degreaser don't seem to
> make any difference... there are little areas that just won't take the
> paint.
>
> Is this maybe some silicone from a cleaning rag, or something in the pores
> of the metal? Any ideas?
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Franck <franck(at)geneseo.net> |
| Subject: | Glue and Sanding |
Perhaps I missed it, but if not it may be worth mentioning.
Whenever I sand wood, especially plywood I go over the areas to be joined
first with the shop vac, then with either a tack cloth or the sticky side
of duct tape. The purpose being to remove any wood dust from the area of
the glue joint. This is standard practice whenever I assemble wood in my
shop. Disclaimer: I'm not a expert and I'm not suggesting the joint is any
stronger. I just do it for my own piece of mind.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | sanding glue joints |
Jack wrote-
>T-88 can stand some (small) gap, but don't think it will let you get away
>with sloppy construction.
In fact, T-88 requires a small gap. If you over-clamp a joint made with
T-88 you'll squeeze out too much of the glue and will not get a good joint.
One of the big plusses of working with T-88 is that it is much more
forgiving than resorcinol or some of the other glues. Joints should be
nice, but even if you have slight discrepancies the T-88 will fill the gap
and give you good strength.
Although I haven't tried it myself, it is said that wood joints can be made
with T-88 on wood that is moist (such as from steaming, to bend capstrips).
It has also been said, and my experience bears it out, that T-88 will soften
at elevated temperatures. Icarus would have had a problem with T-88,
although we know that Piets would take an eternity to climb close enough to
the sun to make a difference ;o)
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <djv(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | LSA regs and tailwheell endorsements |
My uncle is currently a Student Pilot with about 12 hours.
He wants to stop training for a Private Pilot certificate, buy a LSA and
get a Sport Pilot certificate. We were talking and I told him that I am
seriously looking into getting my Sport Pilot Instructors certificate. If I
did I'd teach him in his aircraft.... BUT,
I'm wondering.... if he gets a taildragger (like a Kolb or Kitfox, etc.)
will he need a tailwheel endorsement?? and if so, would I (being a Sport
Pilot Instructor) be able to endorse him for tailwheel flight in his
airplane?
I'll give 1 minute of free advice (estimated value $.02) to anyone who can
answer my question ;)
DJ
www.imagedv.com/aircamper
N74DV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Blackwell <aerialphotos(at)dp.net> |
| Subject: | Re: LSA regs and tailwheell endorsements |
DJ Just a piece of advice. Help him. Help him pick a CFI. Encourage
him. Fly with him. Answer his questions, but do not take the
responsibility of teaching him. Relatives are just too close for an
instructor to do their job properly. More often than not a CFI that is
not objective is either way too tough to be fair or too easy for the
students on good no matter how hard they try to be completely fair. It
can cause very hard feelings that can easily last.
DJ Vegh wrote:
>
>My uncle is currently a Student Pilot with about 12 hours.
>
>He wants to stop training for a Private Pilot certificate, buy a LSA and
>get a Sport Pilot certificate. We were talking and I told him that I am
>seriously looking into getting my Sport Pilot Instructors certificate. If I
>did I'd teach him in his aircraft.... BUT,
>
>I'm wondering.... if he gets a taildragger (like a Kolb or Kitfox, etc.)
>will he need a tailwheel endorsement?? and if so, would I (being a Sport
>Pilot Instructor) be able to endorse him for tailwheel flight in his
>airplane?
>
>I'll give 1 minute of free advice (estimated value $.02) to anyone who can
>answer my question ;)
>
>DJ
>www.imagedv.com/aircamper
>N74DV
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "hjarrett" <hjarrett(at)hroads.net> |
| Subject: | Re: painting metal parts |
Possible sources
1) Oil from your compressor (rings and cylinder bore getting worn)
2) Are you using paper towels? Lots of brands are contaminated with Si.
3) Finger prints. You wouldn't believe how much contaminant is on your
fingers!
4) Contaminated shop rags
Possible solutions
1) Eliminate the above
2) Wipe with Prep Sol (Get it at a GOOD paint store. It's what they use in
auto paint shops)
3) Don't throw rocks at this one. I know it sounds totally STUPID but use
the paint you will be using on the part to clean the surface. I found this
out by accident after what you described happened several times in a row and
the finish was doing it AGAIN! I was so frustrated I literally wiped the
wet paint off with a clean rag and just blasted it with another coat. (Like
I said, I was really mad). The residual paint from the wiping was wetted
out by the new paint and leveled into a beautiful finish. I have pulled
this little trick several times since then when I couldn't get the surface
clean by any normal method and darned if it didn't work every time. I don't
know why it works and I sure don't let anybody see me do it but it has
worked. It's just embarrassing to admit I have done it. If it works for
you let me know. Heck let me know either way. It has yet to fail me when
nothing else works.
Hank J
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: painting metal parts
>
> Group;
>
> I've had problems painting metal parts, both steel and aluminum. Some
parts
> will take the paint perfectly, but other times it's as if there is
something
> on the metal that repels the paint and I get little voids and
imperfections.
> Cleaning with hot soapy water, MEK, alcohol, or degreaser don't seem to
> make any difference... there are little areas that just won't take the
> paint.
>
> Is this maybe some silicone from a cleaning rag, or something in the pores
> of the metal? Any ideas?
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TomTravis(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: LSA regs and tailwheell endorsements |
In a message dated 3/14/2005 6:15:07 P.M. Central Standard Time,
aerialphotos(at)dp.net writes:
Relatives are just too close for an
instructor to do their job properly.
Sometimes that can be true but not always. I taught my daughter to fly and
it's something we've enjoyed together for years. We still get on pretty well
even though she's a professional pilot and I'm her chief pilot. I must admit
when we went through recurrent training last week and her V1 cuts were better
than mine it was hard to take.
It all depends on your relationship with your uncle. If neither of you have
your egos wrapped up in it you can have lots of good safe fun.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <djv(at)imagedv.com> |
<423628CC.4050200(at)dp.net>
| Subject: | Re: LSA regs and tailwheell endorsements |
typically I can see that.... but my dad was my CFI and all went well.
We're a close family and we're good with stuff like this.
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Blackwell" <aerialphotos(at)dp.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: LSA regs and tailwheell endorsements
>
> DJ Just a piece of advice. Help him. Help him pick a CFI. Encourage
> him. Fly with him. Answer his questions, but do not take the
> responsibility of teaching him. Relatives are just too close for an
> instructor to do their job properly. More often than not a CFI that is
> not objective is either way too tough to be fair or too easy for the
> students on good no matter how hard they try to be completely fair. It
> can cause very hard feelings that can easily last.
> DJ Vegh wrote:
>
>>
>>My uncle is currently a Student Pilot with about 12 hours.
>>
>>He wants to stop training for a Private Pilot certificate, buy a LSA and
>>get a Sport Pilot certificate. We were talking and I told him that I am
>>seriously looking into getting my Sport Pilot Instructors certificate. If
>>I
>>did I'd teach him in his aircraft.... BUT,
>>
>>I'm wondering.... if he gets a taildragger (like a Kolb or Kitfox, etc.)
>>will he need a tailwheel endorsement?? and if so, would I (being a Sport
>>Pilot Instructor) be able to endorse him for tailwheel flight in his
>>airplane?
>>
>>I'll give 1 minute of free advice (estimated value $.02) to anyone who can
>>answer my question ;)
>>
>>DJ
>>www.imagedv.com/aircamper
>>N74DV
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sterling" <sterling(at)pgrb.com> |
<423628CC.4050200(at)dp.net> <000601c528fb$beeecab0$0100a8c0@Desktop>
| Subject: | Re: LSA regs and tailwheell endorsements |
My old man taught me when I was 14 (39 years ago) and I'm still learning
tricks from pop! And I don't even dread having my 85 year old father
teaching me in an open cockpit airplane (when this Piet project is ready :)
At the rate I'm going, he'll be 86 before this puppy flys.
----- Original Message -----
From: "DJ Vegh" <djv(at)imagedv.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: LSA regs and tailwheell endorsements
>
> typically I can see that.... but my dad was my CFI and all went well.
> We're a close family and we're good with stuff like this.
>
> DJ
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mark Blackwell" <aerialphotos(at)dp.net>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 5:14 PM
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: LSA regs and tailwheell endorsements
>
>
> >
> > DJ Just a piece of advice. Help him. Help him pick a CFI. Encourage
> > him. Fly with him. Answer his questions, but do not take the
> > responsibility of teaching him. Relatives are just too close for an
> > instructor to do their job properly. More often than not a CFI that is
> > not objective is either way too tough to be fair or too easy for the
> > students on good no matter how hard they try to be completely fair. It
> > can cause very hard feelings that can easily last.
> > DJ Vegh wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>My uncle is currently a Student Pilot with about 12 hours.
> >>
> >>He wants to stop training for a Private Pilot certificate, buy a LSA
and
> >>get a Sport Pilot certificate. We were talking and I told him that I am
> >>seriously looking into getting my Sport Pilot Instructors certificate.
If
> >>I
> >>did I'd teach him in his aircraft.... BUT,
> >>
> >>I'm wondering.... if he gets a taildragger (like a Kolb or Kitfox, etc.)
> >>will he need a tailwheel endorsement?? and if so, would I (being a
Sport
> >>Pilot Instructor) be able to endorse him for tailwheel flight in his
> >>airplane?
> >>
> >>I'll give 1 minute of free advice (estimated value $.02) to anyone who
can
> >>answer my question ;)
> >>
> >>DJ
> >>www.imagedv.com/aircamper
> >>N74DV
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gower <ggower_99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LSA regs and tailwheell endorsements |
My opinion: Remember that when tranning the Instructor has to be VERY firm in
his corrections, and clases. The student life (in the future) could depends
on that trainning.
If you cant be firm enough without hurting feelings, dont do it.
But flights, with advice, once he got his ticket, are always welcome. This from
all pilots Newbes or "good" ones.
Saludos
Gary Gower
(Just do what you decide, maybe not a good opinion :-)
TomTravis(at)aol.com wrote:
In a message dated 3/14/2005 6:15:07 P.M. Central Standard Time, aerialphotos(at)dp.net
writes:
Relatives are just too close for an
instructor to do their job properly.
Sometimes that can be true but not always. I taught my daughter to fly and it's
something we've enjoyed together for years. We still get on pretty well even
though she's a professional pilot and I'm her chief pilot. I must admit when we
went through recurrent training last week and her V1 cuts were better than mine
it was hard to take.
It all depends on your relationship with your uncle. If neither of you have your
egos wrapped up in it you can have lots of good safe fun.
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Scary GN-1 on ebay now......in Texas. |
d2$2c7c8b50$0564a8c0@rdci.az.home.com><423628CC.4050200(at)dp.net>
I like how the seller calls this a Pietenpol Air Camper when it is
not....and the fact that he says "easily repaired"
and "light wing damage". Oh right-----take a look at the photos. I
would steer way clear of this baby.
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | here is the link....... |
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4534270000&category=63677&sspagename=WDVW
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Scary GN-1 on ebay now......in Texas. |
Yo Mike,
Looks like an Aircamper to me... I thought the major difference was that
the GN-1 had a steel tube fuselage. This one's wood. I'm no expert, though,
so I readily admit ignorance if I a wrong. ;)
Anyway, I agree that this thing is crazy scary. Definitely NOT worth the
$6,500 buy-it-now price, or the current bid price of $4,000!!! Some people are
just suckers for a "good deal", and don't do their homework before they open
their wallets. Too bad...
-Wayne
In a message dated 3/15/2005 8:00:09 AM Central Standard Time,
Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov writes:
I like how the seller calls this a Pietenpol Air Camper when it is
not....and the fact that he says "easily repaired"
and "light wing damage". Oh right-----take a look at the photos. I
would steer way clear of this baby.
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Scary GN-1 on ebay now......in Texas. |
| From: | "Phillips, Jack" <jphillip(at)alarismed.com> |
GN-1s can be built with steel or wood fuselages, just like Pietenpols.
This one is definitely a GN-1. I wouldn't touch this one with a 10'
pole. If the lift strut fittings borke, the spars are definitely
suspect. With a broken prop, I would always wonder about the engine
(even though wood props supposedly take the strain that a metal prop
would impart to the crankshaft).
Jack Phillips
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
N925WB1(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Scary GN-1 on ebay now......in Texas.
Yo Mike,
Looks like an Aircamper to me... I thought the major difference was
that the GN-1 had a steel tube fuselage. This one's wood. I'm no
expert, though, so I readily admit ignorance if I a wrong. ;)
Anyway, I agree that this thing is crazy scary. Definitely NOT worth
the $6,500 buy-it-now price, or the current bid price of $4,000!!! Some
people are just suckers for a "good deal", and don't do their homework
before they open their wallets. Too bad...
-Wayne
In a message dated 3/15/2005 8:00:09 AM Central Standard Time,
Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov writes:
I like how the seller calls this a Pietenpol Air Camper when it is
not....and the fact that he says "easily repaired"
and "light wing damage". Oh right-----take a look at the photos. I
would steer way clear of this baby.
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <djv(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Scary GN-1 on ebay now......in Texas. |
the easiest way to tell a GN-1 from a Piet is the landing gear. On the Piet the
front and rear tubes of the gear meet up at the lift struts. On a GN-1 the
rear tube meets the fuselage in front of the rear lift strut. Thats because
GN-1's use a J-3 landing gear.
And yes... this one look spretty scary indeed. I'd give about $3000 for it.
----- Original Message -----
From: N925WB1(at)aol.com
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 7:13 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Scary GN-1 on ebay now......in Texas.
Yo Mike,
Looks like an Aircamper to me... I thought the major difference was that the
GN-1 had a steel tube fuselage. This one's wood. I'm no expert, though, so
I readily admit ignorance if I a wrong. ;)
Anyway, I agree that this thing is crazy scary. Definitely NOT worth the $6,500
buy-it-now price, or the current bid price of $4,000!!! Some people are just
suckers for a "good deal", and don't do their homework before they open their
wallets. Too bad...
-Wayne
In a message dated 3/15/2005 8:00:09 AM Central Standard Time, Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov
writes:
I like how the seller calls this a Pietenpol Air Camper when it is
not....and the fact that he says "easily repaired"
and "light wing damage". Oh right-----take a look at the photos. I
would steer way clear of this baby.
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N321TX(at)wmconnect.com |
| Subject: | Aeropoxy over West System? Compatibility? |
Does anyone have any experience in using Aeropoxy OVER West System? I need to
add a couple of layers of fiberglass cloth on a fuel tank and I've run
bone-dry on West System epoxy resin and hardener but I have a fresh supply of
Aeropoxy PR2032 resin and PH3660 hardener (originally intended for something
else...)
Thanks,
S.B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Scary GN-1 on ebay now......in Texas. |
DJ,
Thanks for clearing that up for me. I learn something new all the time from
this list, even if I am just a casual observer!
BTW - I would assume then that the Pietenpol rear LG strut arrangement would
be stonger than that of the GN-1, as the landing loads would be trasmitted
throught the attach fittings, into the wing struts, through the wings, and
then back down on the other side, thereby creating a box (similar to a biplane
wing configuration) ; whereas the GN-1 loads would be completely absorbed by
the lower longeron, putting in it shear between the rear LG attach fitting,
and the rear strut attach point. Just a thought.
-Wayne
In a message dated 3/15/2005 8:56:09 AM Central Standard Time,
djv(at)imagedv.com writes:
the easiest way to tell a GN-1 from a Piet is the landing gear. On the
Piet the front and rear tubes of the gear meet up at the lift struts. On a
GN-1 the rear tube meets the fuselage in front of the rear lift strut. Thats
because GN-1's use a J-3 landing gear.
And yes... this one look spretty scary indeed. I'd give about $3000 for it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Metcalfe" <fmetcalf(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | LSA regs and tailwheell endorsements |
Yes he will have to have and endorsement and if you have a tailwheel
endorement with your CFI you will be able to sgin him off...But only in LSP
aircraft
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of DJ Vegh
Subject: Pietenpol-List: LSA regs and tailwheell endorsements
My uncle is currently a Student Pilot with about 12 hours.
He wants to stop training for a Private Pilot certificate, buy a LSA and
get a Sport Pilot certificate. We were talking and I told him that I am
seriously looking into getting my Sport Pilot Instructors certificate. If I
did I'd teach him in his aircraft.... BUT,
I'm wondering.... if he gets a taildragger (like a Kolb or Kitfox, etc.)
will he need a tailwheel endorsement?? and if so, would I (being a Sport
Pilot Instructor) be able to endorse him for tailwheel flight in his
airplane?
I'll give 1 minute of free advice (estimated value $.02) to anyone who can
answer my question ;)
DJ
www.imagedv.com/aircamper
N74DV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <djv(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: LSA regs and tailwheell endorsements |
thanks that's what I was thinking. I do have my endorsement so it looks
like all will be good.
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frank Metcalfe" <fmetcalf(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: LSA regs and tailwheell endorsements
>
> Yes he will have to have and endorsement and if you have a tailwheel
> endorement with your CFI you will be able to sgin him off...But only in
LSP
> aircraft
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of DJ Vegh
> Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 3:13 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: LSA regs and tailwheell endorsements
>
>
> My uncle is currently a Student Pilot with about 12 hours.
>
> He wants to stop training for a Private Pilot certificate, buy a LSA and
> get a Sport Pilot certificate. We were talking and I told him that I am
> seriously looking into getting my Sport Pilot Instructors certificate. If
I
> did I'd teach him in his aircraft.... BUT,
>
> I'm wondering.... if he gets a taildragger (like a Kolb or Kitfox, etc.)
> will he need a tailwheel endorsement?? and if so, would I (being a Sport
> Pilot Instructor) be able to endorse him for tailwheel flight in his
> airplane?
>
> I'll give 1 minute of free advice (estimated value $.02) to anyone who can
> answer my question ;)
>
> DJ
> www.imagedv.com/aircamper
> N74DV
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gbowen(at)ptialaska.net" <gbowen(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | Aeropoxy over West System? Compatibility? |
I've used both these systems over the years plus analyzed them as
competitors for composites applications. There would not be any problem of
using either of these two systems. Aeropoxy was one of the two systems
approved by Rutan for integral fuel tanks on his canard-pusher designed
homebuilts, and has functioned for close to 15 years. West is used mainly
in the marine industry and is used for fuel tanks. One tip- if the
epoxy/glass laminate you're trying to bond something to is shiny, you gotta
sand the surface to about 80 grit to get the next layer of epoxy/glass to
bond properly.
Gordon Bowen
Original Message:
-----------------
From: N321TX(at)wmconnect.com
Date: Tue, 15 Mar 2005 13:19:15 EST
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Aeropoxy over West System? Compatibility?
Does anyone have any experience in using Aeropoxy OVER West System? I need
to
add a couple of layers of fiberglass cloth on a fuel tank and I've run
bone-dry on West System epoxy resin and hardener but I have a fresh supply
of
Aeropoxy PR2032 resin and PH3660 hardener (originally intended for
something
else...)
Thanks,
S.B.
________________________________________________________________________________
Another thing that I do when gluing joints, using West System epoxy, is to
make a series of little indentations on each side of the joint using the corner
edge of my wood chisel. This gives the joint some more surface area and
"teeth." Seems to work very well.
When I started building my Piet I made a test joint of 1-inch by 1-inch
spruce in a typical longeron and upright joint with 1/8-inch ply gusset on=20both
sides. After only 24 hours I could not break the joint and so gave it to my
powerlifter son. Understand that he can squat or dead lift 500 pounds seemingly
easier than I can lift 50 pounds! He could not separate the joint. I then took
a
hammer to the joint and only succeeded in breaking away the unsupported
gusset material. I have determined that this glue and method is airworthy --- not
to mention that thousands of homebuilders have been using West System for years
under all kinds of conditions. But I've found that with all things having to
do with airplanes, it doesn't hurt to be a little nervous...
I started making the landing gear struts out of white ash the other day. What
made it special is that I'm using my great-grandfather's 1882 drawknife to
rough shape the leading and trailing edges of the white ash=E2=80=94basically just
rounding off the corners but with a little more taper to the rear. (Wonder what
great-gramps would think of building an airplane=E2=80=94or airplanes in general!)
A drawknife works very well for this task as long as it is sharp and you work
with the grain. (White ash will tell you very quickly if you're going against
the grain.) I really felt a connection with the "old timers" using this method
=E2=80=94no shrieking, growling power tools. Just a quiet swish, swish of sharp
steel. Very relaxing. But don't relax with a drawknife -- you wouldn't want=20to
cut
off an important body part -- or stain that beautiful wood by bleeding all
over it!
Just think! Only four months, one week and a day or so to Brodhead '05! "Git
'er done!"
Fred B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cinda Gadd" <csfog(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Scary GN-1 on ebay now......in Texas. |
Wayne,
You have hit on another way you can tell a GN1 from a Piet.
Use the ebay link below and check out the picture of the inside of the cockpit.
You will see an extra upright about 6 or 8 inches from another upright. Grega
had to put the extra upright in so there would be an upright intersecting the
lower longeron at both L/G and lift strut locations.
GN1s also have 2 fairing strips down the side of the fuselage where Piets only
have one.
Skip
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4534270000&category=63677&sspagename=WDVW
BTW - I would assume then that the Pietenpol rear LG strut arrangement would be
stonger than that of the GN-1, as the landing loads would be trasmitted throught
the attach fittings, into the wing struts, through the wings, and then back
down on the other side, thereby creating a box (similar to a biplane wing configuration)
; whereas the GN-1 loads would be completely absorbed by the lower
longeron, putting in it shear between the rear LG attach fitting, and the rear
strut attach point. Just a thought.
-Wayne
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Scary GN-1 on ebay now......in Texas. |
The landing strut loads go into the fuselage. When the wing stops lifting it
becomes a dead weight pressing downwards. That load goes down the strut
to the fuselage as well. " All roads lead to Rome." as the saying goes.
----- Original Message -----
From: N925WB1(at)aol.com
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Scary GN-1 on ebay now......in Texas.
DJ,
Thanks for clearing that up for me. I learn something new all the time from
this list, even if I am just a casual observer!
BTW - I would assume then that the Pietenpol rear LG strut arrangement would
be stonger than that of the GN-1, as the landing loads would be trasmitted throught
the attach fittings, into the wing struts, through the wings, and then back
down on the other side, thereby creating a box (similar to a biplane wing
configuration) ; whereas the GN-1 loads would be completely absorbed by the lower
longeron, putting in it shear between the rear LG attach fitting, and the
rear strut attach point. Just a thought.
-Wayne
In a message dated 3/15/2005 8:56:09 AM Central Standard Time, djv(at)imagedv.com
writes:
the easiest way to tell a GN-1 from a Piet is the landing gear. On the Piet
the front and rear tubes of the gear meet up at the lift struts. On a GN-1
the rear tube meets the fuselage in front of the rear lift strut. Thats because
GN-1's use a J-3 landing gear.
And yes... this one look spretty scary indeed. I'd give about $3000 for it.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N321TX(at)wmconnect.com |
| Subject: | Prop carving machine on Ebay |
Ebay item number 4534710618 
http://pics.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/s.gif" WIDTH="12" HEIGHT="1" BORDER="0" DATASIZE="49">
Does anyone have experience with making this device? Pros - cons?
Thanks,
Sterling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernadette" <docfont(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | Prop carving machine |
> From: N321TX(at)wmconnect.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Prop carving machine on Ebay
>
> Ebay item number 4534710618
> Does anyone have experience with making this device? Pros - cons?
> Thanks,
> Sterling
>
I don't have experience but I have been gathering info on a propeller
duplcator. Check out this website. More pics and their store if you
click on the link at the bottom. It will give you a good look at what
is in the prop carving plans;
http://www.wood-carver.com/oshkosh.html
Anyone with a bit of talent could eyeball engineer the same thing
without a set of plans. That's probably why you can't tell anything by
looking at the picture on ebay.
DocFont
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gower <ggower_99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop carving machine |
The plans on e-bay are the ones I used to make my carver.
I have used it for more than 10 years and done lots of props, for my planes and
friends.
I carve the basic cut, then they do the final sanding and balance, I just watch
them, all this for free, because I dont have the time to build their props
and they need to learn and work on them.
Works great, yuo just need to make a good flat table...
Very easy to build and inexpensive. Each router is good for about 3 to 5 props
(depends on the brand and quality) I use cheap home duty little routers, they
weight less.
Saludos
Gary Gower.
Bernadette wrote:
> From: N321TX(at)wmconnect.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Prop carving machine on Ebay
>
> Ebay item number 4534710618
> Does anyone have experience with making this device? Pros - cons?
> Thanks,
> Sterling
>
I don't have experience but I have been gathering info on a propeller
duplcator. Check out this website. More pics and their store if you
click on the link at the bottom. It will give you a good look at what
is in the prop carving plans;
http://www.wood-carver.com/oshkosh.html
Anyone with a bit of talent could eyeball engineer the same thing
without a set of plans. That's probably why you can't tell anything by
looking at the picture on ebay.
DocFont
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop carving machine on Ebay |
Found it! Finally! I knew I had plans for this somewhere.
I haven't made or used this thing yet but it looks pretty
simple. Below is the source;
Gary McGill & Associates
PO Box 2566
Glendale, AZ 85311-2566
gemcsr(at)juno.com
VW two cylinder engine conversion plans and parts.
Here's some other stuff;
http://users.lmi.net/~ryoung/Sonerai/Carve_Prop.html
http://www.flyingflea.org/docs/WoodenProps.htm
http://members.tripod.com/moasiaircraft/simple_propeller_design.htm
http://users.lmi.net/~ryoung/Sonerai/Glue_for_Props.html
http://www.kenfern.btinternet.co.uk/frame.htm
http://www.wood-carver.com/articles.html
And finally, my favourite;
http://www.woodenpropeller.com/index.html
Clif
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Prop carving machine on Ebay
Ebay item number 4534710618
Does anyone have experience with making this device? Pros - cons?
Thanks,
Sterling
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sterling" <sterling(at)pgrb.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Kitfox-List: West Epoxy System Warning |
I read the RV, Tailwind and KitFox lists just to see what the other guys are
up to. One poster added this comment about epoxy. He specifically names West
Epoxy, but West isn't the culprit, it's just the components in epoxy.
For what it's worth, it makes an interesting read. (I ALWAYS use gloves when
working around epoxy, MEK and acetone.)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Pearsall" <donpearsall(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Kitfox-List: West Epoxy System Warning
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: "Don Pearsall"
>
> Don, I have to echo your warnings to everyone. I built a KR-1 over 28
years
> ago, then a KR-2. Both are built using epoxy as the resin for fiberglass
> cloth (more flexible than polyester.) During construction, I did not wear
> gloves at all, and often had my hands and arms dripping with the stuff. It
> even got into my hair. I sensitized my hands after the KR-1. Every time I
> was exposed to the epoxy, or even its fumes, it was like someone poured
> scalding water over my skin. My skin would just act exactly like it was
> badly burned, and hurt as bad too. Luckily, the sensitized areas were just
> my hands and arms, but not ALL areas. There were patches of my skin that
> were not affected.
>
> Needless to say, after the KR-2, I said bye-bye to building composite
> planes.
>
> To this day, many years later, I still get burned by just being near epoxy
> fumes. And I sure do not work with it.
>
> So I sympathize with you Don! I hope your face heals quickly. Did you go
to
> a Dr yet? Maybe there is something they can do to make it heal faster.
>
> Don Pearsall
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> AlbertaIV(at)aol.com
> To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Kitfox-List: West Epoxy System Warning
>
> --> Kitfox-List message posted by: AlbertaIV(at)aol.com
>
> I posted a few days back that I had another episode with West Epoxy.
Once
> a
> person becomes sensitized to epoxy, it is for life (that is per West
> Epoxy).
> A couple weeks ago, my Son wanted to fill a small crack on his boat and
I
> offered to help. He mixed it up while I watched close by. Even that
> close
> and it nailed me good. I have lost at least two layers of skin around my
> nose
> and mouth. Tonight, it had stopped peeling and starting to itch. I
gently
>
> rubbed my face to make it feel better and all of a sudden, I had two
> palmfuls
> of blood. There isn't enough skin left on my face to hold back the
blood.
> We've talked about MEK and other chemical we use and how bad they can
> be
> to an airplane builder. Trust me folks, you don't want to become
> sensitized
> to epoxy. West says that it will get worse and worse at each exposure.
> They are telling the truth.
> When you use this stuff, you better get into full dress with an
> external
> air source. I'm having a hard time understanding how they can even sell
> this stuff.
> BTW, I've used West Epoxy rarely on and off for years and it never
> bothered me until I built the Fox. I put out this warning tonight
because,
> quite
> frankly, I'm a bit worried this time. All you tough guys that might say,
> "stuff don't bother me". STAND-BY
>
> Don Smythe
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Hopperdhh(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Prop carving |
Clif,
Great post. I changed the title line for the archives.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
In a message dated 3/18/05 3:19:06 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca writes:
Found it! Finally! I knew I had plans for this somewhere.
I haven't made or used this thing yet but it looks pretty
simple. Below is the source;
Gary McGill & Associates
PO Box 2566
Glendale, AZ 85311-2566
_gemcsr(at)juno.com_ (mailto:gemcsr(at)juno.com)
VW two cylinder engine conversion plans and parts.
Here's some other stuff;
_http://users.lmi.net/~ryoung/Sonerai/Carve_Prop.html_
(http://users.lmi.net/~ryoung/Sonerai/Carve_Prop.html)
_http://www.flyingflea.org/docs/WoodenProps.htm_
(http://www.flyingflea.org/docs/WoodenProps.htm)
_http://members.tripod.com/moasiaircraft/simple_propeller_design.htm_
(http://members.tripod.com/moasiaircraft/simple_propeller_design.htm)
_http://users.lmi.net/~ryoung/Sonerai/Glue_for_Props.html_
(http://users.lmi.net/~ryoung/Sonerai/Glue_for_Props.html)
_http://www.kenfern.btinternet.co.uk/frame.htm_
(http://www.kenfern.btinternet.co.uk/frame.htm)
_http://www.wood-carver.com/articles.html_
(http://www.wood-carver.com/articles.html)
And finally, my favourite;
_http://www.woodenpropeller.com/index.html_
(http://www.woodenpropeller.com/index.html)
Clif
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rhartwig11(at)juno.com |
Sterling,
I can't tell much from the poor photo on Ebay. I have a duplicator
(don't know if it is the same one)which is like a wooden box with 4 sides
made of 3/4 inch ply. The sides are hinged together and hinged to a
trolley. The trolley runs on 4 wheels made of pulleys that ride on
tracks made of 1/2 inch angle iron. The side opposite the side that is
attached to the trolley has a bullnose 1/2 inch probe attached to one
corner and a router with 1/2 inch core box bit attached to the other
corner. My description is probably as clear as mud, but this tool has
been used to make several good props and is as good as the operator. I
obviously was not the operator. I could bring it to Brodhead if you are
going to be there this year
Dick Hartwig
Waunakee, WI
rhartwig11(at)juno.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick Navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
| Subject: | A good day at the hangar |
I uncrated my new engine and did a first test fitting today. This is the Rotec
R-2800. I have attached a pic. It's starting to look like an airplane of sorts.
This is the fuselage that we built at Sun n Fun.
Dick N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <djv(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: A good day at the hangar |
Dick,
my dad was considering that engine for his Fisher Celebrity project but ended up
opting for a Corvair. I sure am fond of those Rotec R-2800's They look
great!
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Dick Navratil
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 3:15 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: A good day at the hangar
I uncrated my new engine and did a first test fitting today. This is the Rotec
R-2800. I have attached a pic. It's starting to look like an airplane of
sorts. This is the fuselage that we built at Sun n Fun.
Dick N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Frank Metcalfe" <fmetcalf(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | A good day at the hangar |
Very cool !! Good looking engine cant wait to see that on fly !!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dick Navratil
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 5:16 PM
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: A good day at the hangar
I uncrated my new engine and did a first test fitting today. This is the
Rotec R-2800. I have attached a pic. It's starting to look like an
airplane of sorts. This is the fuselage that we built at Sun n Fun.
Dick N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Blackwell <aerialphotos(at)dp.net> |
| Subject: | Well gone an did it today |
Well my day started off a bit differently. I picked up the phone before
making a final decision and talked to Don Peitenpol. I haven't started
a day in a better way in a very long time. Super guy that seems to love
aviation with a true appreciation of avation history. He should, he did
have a rather unique view of it. His willingness to answer questions
and his just generally being a nice man told me this really is the
airplane for me and I ordered the plans.
Ive never tackled a project like this, but Don was very encouraging. It
will be a while before I finally start cutting wood, but the first step
was taken today and would welcome any advise and recomendations on any
special tools I might need to make life easier.
Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Well gone an did it today |
Mark, congratulations, but don't wait too long after
getting the plans to start work on the project. Best
to get started as soon as possible. A small workshop
is helpful. I use my garage. A work bench. I use a
table saw frequently as well as a small band saw and a
miter saw. I also use a Dremel tool often. A tack
hamer and I use tweesers for holding the very small
nails for securing the gussetts on while the glue
dries. I also have a larger band saw with a metal
cutting blade for the metal work. I have an
acetylene/oxy torch with an "O" size welding tip to
make the welds with. I also use a Stanley
forming/shaping tool and a good wood rasp. Lots of
sand paper and a disc and belt sander are very
helpful. Lots of glue clamps for sure. These items
don't all have to be bought at one time, you can
acquire them over several weeks as you progress on the
project. You will love working on the plane and this
is coming from a guy who spent 32 years of flying and
had never built before in his life. It is a lot of
fun to build and does take a lot of time, but it is
far more fun than watching tv and much more rewarding
too. You will save big bucks if you go to the lumber
yard and purchase your wood there and cut the pieces
you need. Baltic birch is a great plywood. You can
get good A/C grade 1/16th inch birch ply from a good
hobby store. It takes more work this way, but you
will save a lot of money. Everyone on this list is
very helpful and will answer all your questions for
you, just ask. Best wishes and happy building.
Doc
It
> will be a while before I finally start cutting wood,
> but the first step
> was taken today and would welcome any advise and
> recomendations on any
> special tools I might need to make life easier.
>
> Mark
>
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Prop carving |
Thanks Dan. I'll be carving a prop soon. I just acquired a half VW
with about 10 hrs on it for $175. Guy smucked his plane ( Hummel )
left the engine with the fields owner in leu of money owed. Things
happened to it while sitting around so I've had it apart and back
together again, virtually no wear in the cylinders. Seems like a
good practice project for prop building.
----- Original Message -----
From: Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 6:17 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Prop carving
Clif,
Great post. I changed the title line for the archives.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
In a message dated 3/18/05 3:19:06 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time, CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca
writes:
Found it! Finally! I knew I had plans for this somewhere.
I haven't made or used this thing yet but it looks pretty
simple. Below is the source;
Gary McGill & Associates
PO Box 2566
Glendale, AZ 85311-2566
gemcsr(at)juno.com
VW two cylinder engine conversion plans and parts.
Here's some other stuff;
http://users.lmi.net/~ryoung/Sonerai/Carve_Prop.html
http://www.flyingflea.org/docs/WoodenProps.htm
http://members.tripod.com/moasiaircraft/simple_propeller_design.htm
http://users.lmi.net/~ryoung/Sonerai/Glue_for_Props.html
http://www.kenfern.btinternet.co.uk/frame.htm
http://www.wood-carver.com/articles.html
And finally, my favourite;
http://www.woodenpropeller.com/index.html
Clif
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | A good day at the hangar |
Beautiful, Dick!
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dick Navratil
Subject: Pietenpol-List: A good day at the hangar
I uncrated my new engine and did a first test fitting today. This is the
Rotec R-2800. I have attached a pic. It's starting to look like an
airplane of sorts. This is the fuselage that we built at Sun n Fun.
Dick N.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Blackwell <aerialphotos(at)dp.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Well gone an did it today |
resources for learning what to keep and what not to? What is the
difference between aircraft grade ply and regular ply?
I have most of the tools you mentioned except the bandsaws and the
welder. I have soldered copper pipes to musical instruments, but never
welded. Like you Ive been a pilot for over 20 years but building is
something that the wife made me do around the house.
Galen Hutcheson wrote:
>
>Mark, congratulations, but don't wait too long after
>getting the plans to start work on the project. Best
>to get started as soon as possible. A small workshop
>is helpful. I use my garage. A work bench. I use a
>table saw frequently as well as a small band saw and a
>miter saw. I also use a Dremel tool often. A tack
>hamer and I use tweesers for holding the very small
>nails for securing the gussetts on while the glue
>dries. I also have a larger band saw with a metal
>cutting blade for the metal work. I have an
>acetylene/oxy torch with an "O" size welding tip to
>make the welds with. I also use a Stanley
>forming/shaping tool and a good wood rasp. Lots of
>sand paper and a disc and belt sander are very
>helpful. Lots of glue clamps for sure. These items
>don't all have to be bought at one time, you can
>acquire them over several weeks as you progress on the
>project. You will love working on the plane and this
>is coming from a guy who spent 32 years of flying and
>had never built before in his life. It is a lot of
>fun to build and does take a lot of time, but it is
>far more fun than watching tv and much more rewarding
>too. You will save big bucks if you go to the lumber
>yard and purchase your wood there and cut the pieces
>you need. Baltic birch is a great plywood. You can
>get good A/C grade 1/16th inch birch ply from a good
>hobby store. It takes more work this way, but you
>will save a lot of money. Everyone on this list is
>very helpful and will answer all your questions for
>you, just ask. Best wishes and happy building.
>
>Doc
>
> It
>
>
>>will be a while before I finally start cutting wood,
>>but the first step
>>was taken today and would welcome any advise and
>>recomendations on any
>>special tools I might need to make life easier.
>>
>>Mark
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Contributions
>>any other
>>Forums.
>>
>>http://www.matronics.com/subscription
>>http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
>>http://www.matronics.com/archives
>>http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>>http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Well gone an did it today |
Mark,
Get a copy of EAA's Aircraft Building Techniques - Wood. While you're at
it, get all four of Tony Bingelis' books: The Sportplane Builder,
Sportplane Construction Techniques, Firewall Forward, and Tony Bingelis on
Engines. Other books I would recommend are the FAA's bible on aircraft
repair (which has a lot of information that can be applied to construction),
AC-43.13. The EAA's book on aircraft welding is useful (there is a
surprising amount of welding to be done on a wooden airplane), as is
PolyFiber's book on how to cover an aircraft.
If you can afford it, I would recommend two bandsaws - one for wood (and
aluminum) and one for steel. I already had a Sears 12" bandsaw which served
me well for the woodworking. I bought a cheap Grizzly metalcutting bandsaw
for about $200 and it did a fine job on all the steel parts. A good
beltsander with an abrasive disc is a "nice to have" tool for dressing the
edges of the steel parts, as well as finishing the wooden parts.
Good Luck to you! You are about to embark on an adventure few have known.
I can tell you that there is no better feeling in the world than feeling the
plane you have built with your own hands lifting off the runway and
responding to your control, just as you have imagined it.
Jack Phillips
Raleigh, NC
Covering the new stabilizer for NX899JP this morning
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Blackwell
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Well gone an did it today
resources for learning what to keep and what not to? What is the
difference between aircraft grade ply and regular ply?
I have most of the tools you mentioned except the bandsaws and the
welder. I have soldered copper pipes to musical instruments, but never
welded. Like you Ive been a pilot for over 20 years but building is
something that the wife made me do around the house.
Galen Hutcheson wrote:
>
>Mark, congratulations, but don't wait too long after
>getting the plans to start work on the project. Best
>to get started as soon as possible. A small workshop
>is helpful. I use my garage. A work bench. I use a
>table saw frequently as well as a small band saw and a
>miter saw. I also use a Dremel tool often. A tack
>hamer and I use tweesers for holding the very small
>nails for securing the gussetts on while the glue
>dries. I also have a larger band saw with a metal
>cutting blade for the metal work. I have an
>acetylene/oxy torch with an "O" size welding tip to
>make the welds with. I also use a Stanley
>forming/shaping tool and a good wood rasp. Lots of
>sand paper and a disc and belt sander are very
>helpful. Lots of glue clamps for sure. These items
>don't all have to be bought at one time, you can
>acquire them over several weeks as you progress on the
>project. You will love working on the plane and this
>is coming from a guy who spent 32 years of flying and
>had never built before in his life. It is a lot of
>fun to build and does take a lot of time, but it is
>far more fun than watching tv and much more rewarding
>too. You will save big bucks if you go to the lumber
>yard and purchase your wood there and cut the pieces
>you need. Baltic birch is a great plywood. You can
>get good A/C grade 1/16th inch birch ply from a good
>hobby store. It takes more work this way, but you
>will save a lot of money. Everyone on this list is
>very helpful and will answer all your questions for
>you, just ask. Best wishes and happy building.
>
>Doc
>
> It
>
>
>>will be a while before I finally start cutting wood,
>>but the first step
>>was taken today and would welcome any advise and
>>recomendations on any
>>special tools I might need to make life easier.
>>
>>Mark
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Contributions
>>any other
>>Forums.
>>
>>http://www.matronics.com/subscription
>>http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
>>http://www.matronics.com/archives
>>http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>>http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>__________________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick Navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Well gone an did it today |
M ark
If you can make it to Sun n Fun, we will be building a Fuselage and tail
feathers for Gardiner Mason at the show. Come by and look or help. There
will also be demo's of building wing ribs or you can buy a completed set
from Chrlie at the show if you want.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Blackwell" <aerialphotos(at)dp.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Well gone an did it today
>
> Well my day started off a bit differently. I picked up the phone before
> making a final decision and talked to Don Peitenpol. I haven't started
> a day in a better way in a very long time. Super guy that seems to love
> aviation with a true appreciation of avation history. He should, he did
> have a rather unique view of it. His willingness to answer questions
> and his just generally being a nice man told me this really is the
> airplane for me and I ordered the plans.
>
> Ive never tackled a project like this, but Don was very encouraging. It
> will be a while before I finally start cutting wood, but the first step
> was taken today and would welcome any advise and recomendations on any
> special tools I might need to make life easier.
>
> Mark
>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Well gone an did it today |
Mark, I found fairly good spruce at our lumber yard.
You will need to pick through the stack to find the
right pieces. Look for "quarter-sawn" lumber. That
is, lumber, from the end view point, has the rings
running across the end of the board like a ladder.
Often you will see the center of the tree on one end
of the board (again looking at one end of the board).
Count the rings and you should have at least 8 rings
per inch and they should run all the way to the other
end of the board without running off the edge of the
board. As few knots as possible (you will discard a
lot of board because of knots and pitch pockets, but
it is still cheaper this way). You are allowed small
knots (less than 3/8" diameter no closer than 3/8"
from the edge of the piece). Save the discarded
pieces as you can use smaller pieces for cross-members
in the project. I bought my small band saw off ebay,
but I had to do some work on it after I got it.
I used the pattern of the rib that comes with the
plans to form my rib jig, though some think the
pattern my not be accurate. I compared mine with the
coordinates and found it very close. Remember, it is
still an airfoil and will fly. You be the judge. You
will spend a lot of time building jigs, but that is
part of the fun. Just take your time and make it as
accurate as you can. I try to think ahead on the
project to prevent doing something that will have to
be changed later. So I spend more time thinking about
the project than I do in actually doing the work.
Before I started my project, I went through all my old
issues of Sport Aviation and ripped out all of the
articles on building tips and put them in a ring
binder for reference. I bought Bengelis book "Sport
Plane Builder" and find it helpful. The more you
read, the easier it will be to build
There is a lot of debate over the plywood issue. I
find that plain old baltic birch (from the lumber
yard, usually in 5' X 5' X 1/8" sheets, are plenty
strong for the large gussetts. A/C grade plywood will
say it is A/C grade on the label and I bought Midwest
brand at the hobby store. That is the 1/16" size for
the rib gussetts just to save on shipping. I bought
1/8" mahagony ply for the side panels again from the
lumber yard. I used 1/4" 5 ply baltic birch bought
from the lumber yard for the floor.
The EAA website has some great articles on gas welding
and with practice you will have no trouble welding.
Pratice is very impportant. You can go to the local
scrap metal yard and buy pratice material. I do
recommend you buy 4130 steel for the metal parts on
the plane however.
Hope this helps and good luck. If you would like some
building pics, I will be happy to email you some.
Doc
--- Mark Blackwell wrote:
>
>
> Id heard the local lumber yard was the place to go,
> but any good
> resources for learning what to keep and what not to?
> What is the
> difference between aircraft grade ply and regular
> ply?
>
> I have most of the tools you mentioned except the
> bandsaws and the
> welder. I have soldered copper pipes to musical
> instruments, but never
> welded. Like you Ive been a pilot for over 20 years
> but building is
> something that the wife made me do around the house.
>
>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>Contributions
> >>any other
> >>Forums.
> >>
> >>http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> >>http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
> >>http://www.matronics.com/archives
> >>http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> >>http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >__________________________________________________
> protection around
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://mobile.yahoo.com/maildemo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Well gone an did it today |
Mark, a few more hints if you wish to use them. I
bought 2 X 6 boards as base material. This gives you
plenty of board to cut your material from. I have a
used 10" table saw with a Diabalo finish cutting blade
to cut everything with and it works very well.
Remember to sand the plywood before gluing because
glue penetration is critical for a strong joint. The
plywood has a glaze that needs to be sanded off. A
few stroks with good sand paper is all it takes. Hope
this helps.
Doc
--- Mark Blackwell wrote:
>
>
> Id heard the local lumber yard was the place to go,
> but any good
> resources for learning what to keep and what not to?
> What is the
> difference between aircraft grade ply and regular
> ply?
>
>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>Contributions
> >>any other
> >>Forums.
> >>
> >>http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> >>http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
> >>http://www.matronics.com/archives
> >>http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> >>http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >__________________________________________________
> protection around
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N321TX(at)wmconnect.com |
| Subject: | Re: A good day at the hangar |
Salivated on unpainted 4130. Just as bad I suppose.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | BALTIC BIRCH--be careful |
| From: | rhartwig11(at)juno.com |
I would suggest using caution if you are buying Baltic Birch for aircraft
building. The only Baltic Birch I have seen is interior grade and I use
a lot of Baltic Birch for cabinet making. I am not saying that there is
no such thing as Baltic Birch glued with waterproof glue, but any that I
have soaked in water has peeled apart. Just to make sure I was not
blowing smoke on this subject, I took a break from writing this and
sliced off a 1/16 inch strip from the edge of a beautiful sheet of 5/8
inch Baltic Birch. I placed it in a pan of boiling water. Within 3
minutes the laminations started popping apart. You can boil aircraft or
marine ply like this for an hour and it will not come apart. The only
non-aircraft plywood that I would recommend is 1088 spec. marine ply. or
good modeling ply such as Sig brand which is used in the model airplane
business. There are probably other good plys, but I would not use them
unless I performed boiling water tests on them.
The difference between aircraft/marine plywoods and other plywoods is not
only in the glues used to laminate them, but in the defects, patches and
voids that are allowed in the face veneers and interior laminations. I
am assuming when Doc said "A/C" plywood he meant "aircraft" plywood. If
you ask for "A/C" plywood at the lumberyard it just means that the
plywood has a face veneer on one side this is "A" (relatively defect
free/or plugged) and a lesser "C" quality veneer on the other side--not
the sort of ply you would want to use for primary aircraft structure.
When grading boards it is easy to see the lines caused by the annular
rings and to determine if they run from end to end (or 1" in 15"). There
is also grain running at 90 degrees to the annular rings. The only way
you can check that for run out is to cut a few inches off each end of
the board and split it with a chisel 90 degrees to the annular rings and
then measure for run out. I believe (without checking the book) run out
should be no more than one inch in 15 inches. Get a good book on grading
aircraft wood if you are not using certified woods.
Dick Hartwig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BALTIC BIRCH--be careful |
I did mean A/C to stand for "Aircraft." I do know of
several airplanes flying successfully with baltic
birch plywood for gussetts. I think the best test to
see if a material is adequate would be one designed to
simulate actual conditions under which it will be
used. I have subjected baltic birch test pieces under
rather high heat and high humidity with no major
problems. I protected the wood with polyurethane
varnish and allowed it to cure for at least one week
before the tests. I tried to simulate a test that
would be more likely to reflect actual conditions.
Sunlight is another stressor that needs to be tested,
which I did. Of course, my tests may not pass those of
professional engineers, but I am satisified with the
results. I'm sure that different manufacturing
companies produce different qualities of plywood, so
it would be difficult to make generalized statements.
The safest bet, of course, would be to buy certified
aircraft quality products...provided you have the
budget to do so. Safety is the key point, so any
non-certified materials must be tested (under
realistic condidions) to see if they are safe
materials to use.
Doc
--- rhartwig11(at)juno.com wrote:
> I would suggest using caution if you are buying
> Baltic Birch for aircraft
> building. The only Baltic Birch I have seen is
> interior grade and I use
> a lot of Baltic Birch for cabinet making. I am not
> saying that there is
> no such thing as Baltic Birch glued with waterproof
> glue, but any that I
> have soaked in water has peeled apart. Just to make
> sure I was not
> blowing smoke on this subject, I took a break from
> writing this and
> sliced off a 1/16 inch strip from the edge of a
> beautiful sheet of 5/8
> inch Baltic Birch. I placed it in a pan of boiling
> water. Within 3
> minutes the laminations started popping apart. You
> can boil aircraft or
> marine ply like this for an hour and it will not
> come apart. The only
> non-aircraft plywood that I would recommend is 1088
> spec. marine ply. or
> good modeling ply such as Sig brand which is used in
> the model airplane
> business. There are probably other good plys, but I
> would not use them
> unless I performed boiling water tests on them.
>
> The difference between aircraft/marine plywoods and
> other plywoods is not
> only in the glues used to laminate them, but in the
> defects, patches and
> voids that are allowed in the face veneers and
> interior laminations. I
> am assuming when Doc said "A/C" plywood he meant
> "aircraft" plywood. If
> you ask for "A/C" plywood at the lumberyard it just
> means that the
> plywood has a face veneer on one side this is "A"
> (relatively defect
> free/or plugged) and a lesser "C" quality veneer on
> the other side--not
> the sort of ply you would want to use for primary
> aircraft structure.
>
> When grading boards it is easy to see the lines
> caused by the annular
> rings and to determine if they run from end to end
> (or 1" in 15"). There
> is also grain running at 90 degrees to the annular
> rings. The only way
> you can check that for run out is to cut a few
> inches off each end of
> the board and split it with a chisel 90 degrees to
> the annular rings and
> then measure for run out. I believe (without
> checking the book) run out
> should be no more than one inch in 15 inches. Get a
> good book on grading
> aircraft wood if you are not using certified woods.
> Dick Hartwig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walt evans" <wbeevans(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | "convert" program |
A year or so ago I offered a program to any one who wanted it. It's called "convert"
and it converts anything to anything. Any volume amounts, any weight amounts,
angles,speed, temp, torque, force, blah, blah, blah. Simple to use, even
the engineers got a kick out of it.
Any body that doesn't have it wants it, just post to the group, and I'll send it
to you directly.
It's about 1/2 meg, and don't want to clog up the group.
walt evans
NX140DL
________________________________________________________________________________
I just ran up my engine for the first time today. C-90 with a 72CK42
Sensenich prop. Got 2200 rpm with the plane tied down. Is this about
what some of the rest of you are getting with a C-90? Got the engine
from Don's Dream Machines. Runs real smooth. They recommend a 72WGK42.
Do any of you know the difference? If both are about the same there is
no point in buying another prop.
Craig
NX899CL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Doyle Combs" <doylecombskeith(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: "convert" program |
Walt, I would appreciate the convert program.
Doyle Combs
----- Original Message -----
From: walt evans
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2005 4:41 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: "convert" program
A year or so ago I offered a program to any one who wanted it. It's called "convert"
and it converts anything to anything. Any volume amounts, any weight
amounts, angles,speed, temp, torque, force, blah, blah, blah. Simple to use,
even the engineers got a kick out of it.
Any body that doesn't have it wants it, just post to the group, and I'll send
it to you directly.
It's about 1/2 meg, and don't want to clog up the group.
walt evans
NX140DL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "LAWRENCE WILLIAMS" <lnawms(at)msn.com> |
Piet listers-
My 4 year old Pietenpol Air Camper (NX 899LW) is officially for sale!!
Last Thursday night I had a heart attack. Since my employment is now in question
and any chance of even being allowed to have a Sport Pilot license in the future
is pretty remote, I have decided that now would be a good time to find the
Piet a new home.
For those of you who don't know me or haven't been to Brodhead the past 3 years,
my Air Camper was featured in the Jan 2004 issue of Sport Aviation and the E.A.A.
is still using it's images in their subscription advertisements. It's the
one with the subtle yellow-with-red-scallops paint job!!
I will do my spring Condition Inspection within the next few weeks and it'll be
ready for the summer. I also have an extra prop, spare engine, rib jig, prop
duplicator and some other spares that are part of the package.
My asking price is $16,000 which seems to be reasonable for an insurance replacement
figure.
Since participating on this list indicates a more than casual interest in The Air
Camper, I'm hoping that one of you will pick up on this or pass the info along
to a friend. You're a great group of guys and I hope you can help me out.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Ford" <Jford(at)indstate.edu> |
Larry,
I'm extremely sorry to hear of your plight. You gave my daughter,
Sarah, a ride in your immaculate airplane last summer at Brodhead which
she will never forget. It is a phenomenal example of fine craftsmanship
rendered by a truly first-class individual, and I'm certain folks are
going to jump at the opportunity to own it. It is an absolutely
wonderful airplane.
John
John Ford
john(at)indstate.edu
812-237-8542
>>> lnawms(at)msn.com Monday, March 21, 2005 9:55:02 AM >>>
Piet listers-
My 4 year old Pietenpol Air Camper (NX 899LW) is officially for sale!!
Last Thursday night I had a heart attack. Since my employment is now in
question and any chance of even being allowed to have a Sport Pilot
license in the future is pretty remote, I have decided that now would be
a good time to find the Piet a new home.
For those of you who don't know me or haven't been to Brodhead the past
3 years, my Air Camper was featured in the Jan 2004 issue of Sport
Aviation and the E.A.A. is still using it's images in their subscription
advertisements. It's the one with the subtle yellow-with-red-scallops
paint job!!
I will do my spring Condition Inspection within the next few weeks and
it'll be ready for the summer. I also have an extra prop, spare engine,
rib jig, prop duplicator and some other spares that are part of the
package.
My asking price is $16,000 which seems to be reasonable for an
insurance replacement figure.
Since participating on this list indicates a more than casual interest
in The Air Camper, I'm hoping that one of you will pick up on this or
pass the info along to a friend. You're a great group of guys and I hope
you can help me out.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sterling" <sterling(at)pgrb.com> |
| Subject: | VW based aircraft engine installation video on Ebay |
I just listed a Mosler Motors installation video on Ebay for $1.00. It shows the
installation of a Mosler 82X on an Avid Sportster.
I was hired to produce this video for Mosler Motors in 1990.
For anyone interested in VW based engines, this would be a good "educational" video,
even though Mosler is no longer in business. I also DO NOT RECOMMEND installing
a VW engine in a Pietenpol or a GN-1. You really need something with more
power.
See it on Ebay by typing in item number 4537719007.
Sterling Brooks
Knot-2-Shabby Airport & Texas Longhorn Cattle Ranch
5TA6, San Antonio Sectional
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Engelkenjohn" <wingding(at)usmo.com> |
Damn Larry! That'll be enough of that stuff!!!
Did you ask our permission to have a heart attack? Well did you ? I think not!
Seriously though, I hate to hear that. From you or from anyone. An older person
I could handle, but Larry, you're relatively a young man. I hope you are doing
all right and feel bad you will have to give up flying. Was it so serious
you would give up flying altogether, including ultralights? This is devastating
news, cause if it happened to you, it could happen to me.
I really, really hope you will be alright.
Dennis Engelkenjohn
----- Original Message -----
From: LAWRENCE WILLIAMS
To: Pietenpol-List Digest Server
Sent: Monday, March 21, 2005 6:55 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: For sale
Piet listers-
My 4 year old Pietenpol Air Camper (NX 899LW) is officially for sale!!
Last Thursday night I had a heart attack. Since my employment is now in question
and any chance of even being allowed to have a Sport Pilot license in the
future is pretty remote, I have decided that now would be a good time to find
the Piet a new home.
For those of you who don't know me or haven't been to Brodhead the past 3 years,
my Air Camper was featured in the Jan 2004 issue of Sport Aviation and the
E.A.A. is still using it's images in their subscription advertisements. It's
the one with the subtle yellow-with-red-scallops paint job!!
I will do my spring Condition Inspection within the next few weeks and it'll
be ready for the summer. I also have an extra prop, spare engine, rib jig, prop
duplicator and some other spares that are part of the package.
My asking price is $16,000 which seems to be reasonable for an insurance replacement
figure.
Since participating on this list indicates a more than casual interest in The
Air Camper, I'm hoping that one of you will pick up on this or pass the info
along to a friend. You're a great group of guys and I hope you can help me out.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
I am also sorry to hear of your heart attack but as far as flying an
LSA (including any Piet), as long as you have not failed or been
denied an FAA physical all you need is a drivers license. Doesn't
matter if you have had a dozen heart attacks.
>
> Larry,
>
> I'm extremely sorry to hear of your plight. You gave my daughter,
> Sarah, a ride in your immaculate airplane last summer at Brodhead which
> she will never forget. It is a phenomenal example of fine craftsmanship
> rendered by a truly first-class individual, and I'm certain folks are
> going to jump at the opportunity to own it. It is an absolutely
> wonderful airplane.
>
> John
>
> John Ford
> john(at)indstate.edu
> 812-237-8542
>
> >>> lnawms(at)msn.com Monday, March 21, 2005 9:55:02 AM >>>
> Piet listers-
>
> My 4 year old Pietenpol Air Camper (NX 899LW) is officially for sale!!
>
> Last Thursday night I had a heart attack. Since my employment is now in
> question and any chance of even being allowed to have a Sport Pilot
> license in the future is pretty remote, I have decided that now would be
> a good time to find the Piet a new home.
>
> For those of you who don't know me or haven't been to Brodhead the past
> 3 years, my Air Camper was featured in the Jan 2004 issue of Sport
> Aviation and the E.A.A. is still using it's images in their subscription
> advertisements. It's the one with the subtle yellow-with-red-scallops
> paint job!!
>
> I will do my spring Condition Inspection within the next few weeks and
> it'll be ready for the summer. I also have an extra prop, spare engine,
> rib jig, prop duplicator and some other spares that are part of the
> package.
>
> My asking price is $16,000 which seems to be reasonable for an
> insurance replacement figure.
>
> Since participating on this list indicates a more than casual interest
> in The Air Camper, I'm hoping that one of you will pick up on this or
> pass the info along to a friend. You're a great group of guys and I hope
> you can help me out.
>
> Larry
>
>
>
--
Rick Holland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Goff" <kgoff(at)arkansasusa.com> |
"'Pietenpol-List Digest Server'"
Do you have any pictures posted anywhere?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of LAWRENCE
WILLIAMS
Subject: Pietenpol-List: For sale
Piet listers-
My 4 year old Pietenpol Air Camper (NX 899LW) is officially for sale!!
Last Thursday night I had a heart attack. Since my employment is now in
question and any chance of even being allowed to have a Sport Pilot
license in the future is pretty remote, I have decided that now would be
a good time to find the Piet a new home.
For those of you who don't know me or haven't been to Brodhead the past
3 years, my Air Camper was featured in the Jan 2004 issue of Sport
Aviation and the E.A.A. is still using it's images in their subscription
advertisements. It's the one with the subtle yellow-with-red-scallops
paint job!!
I will do my spring Condition Inspection within the next few weeks and
it'll be ready for the summer. I also have an extra prop, spare engine,
rib jig, prop duplicator and some other spares that are part of the
package.
My asking price is $16,000 which seems to be reasonable for an insurance
replacement figure.
Since participating on this list indicates a more than casual interest
in The Air Camper, I'm hoping that one of you will pick up on this or
pass the info along to a friend. You're a great group of guys and I hope
you can help me out.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mark thomson <buccaneer7(at)bellsouth.net> |
Netscape/7.2 (ax)
| Subject: | Re: "convert" program |
walt evans wrote:
> A year or so ago I offered a program to any one who wanted it. It's
> called "convert" and it converts anything to anything. Any volume
> amounts, any weight amounts, angles,speed, temp, torque, force, blah,
> blah, blah. Simple to use, even the engineers got a kick out of it.
> Any body that doesn't have it wants it, just post to the group, and
> I'll send it to you directly.
> It's about 1/2 meg, and don't want to clog up the group.
> walt evans
> NX140DL
Hi Walt ,LET me know all the proven weights and balanaces and airfoil
designs,that you have studied,I am very interaested in your knowledge
for the piet n pal...aircamper.
thanks so much...Mark
buccaneer7(at)bellsouth.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Ford" <Jford(at)indstate.edu> |
Look in the matronics photoshare. There are plenty! Try this [
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/pietenpol-list.html#Top ] and
look into any of the Brodhead 2003 or 2004 posts. It'll be the really,
really nice red and yellow Piet with the tennis ball spinner...
John
John Ford
john(at)indstate.edu
812-237-8542
>>> kgoff(at)arkansasusa.com Monday, March 21, 2005 8:36:08 PM >>>
Do you have any pictures posted anywhere?
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
LAWRENCE
WILLIAMS
Subject: Pietenpol-List: For sale
Piet listers-
My 4 year old Pietenpol Air Camper (NX 899LW) is officially for sale!!
Last Thursday night I had a heart attack. Since my employment is now
in
question and any chance of even being allowed to have a Sport Pilot
license in the future is pretty remote, I have decided that now would
be
a good time to find the Piet a new home.
For those of you who don't know me or haven't been to Brodhead the
past
3 years, my Air Camper was featured in the Jan 2004 issue of Sport
Aviation and the E.A.A. is still using it's images in their
subscription
advertisements. It's the one with the subtle yellow-with-red-scallops
paint job!!
I will do my spring Condition Inspection within the next few weeks and
it'll be ready for the summer. I also have an extra prop, spare
engine,
rib jig, prop duplicator and some other spares that are part of the
package.
My asking price is $16,000 which seems to be reasonable for an
insurance
replacement figure.
Since participating on this list indicates a more than casual interest
in The Air Camper, I'm hoping that one of you will pick up on this or
pass the info along to a friend. You're a great group of guys and I
hope
you can help me out.
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts(at)yahoo.com> |
I agree with Rick. This is the most common sense
legislation ever to come out of the FAA. You
sefl-certify that you are physically able to fly the
airplane and, with a valid drivers's lic., you can fly
under the rules of the Sporsman ticket. Do the
cardiac rehab and keep your risk factors in line and
you should be able to fly for a long time.
Doc
--- Rick Holland wrote:
>
>
> I am also sorry to hear of your heart attack but as
> far as flying an
> LSA (including any Piet), as long as you have not
> failed or been
> denied an FAA physical all you need is a drivers
> license. Doesn't
> matter if you have had a dozen heart attacks.
>
>
> wrote:
>
> >
> > Larry,
> >
> > I'm extremely sorry to hear of your plight. You
> gave my daughter,
> > Sarah, a ride in your immaculate airplane last
> summer at Brodhead which
> > she will never forget. It is a phenomenal example
> of fine craftsmanship
> > rendered by a truly first-class individual, and
> I'm certain folks are
> > going to jump at the opportunity to own it. It is
> an absolutely
> > wonderful airplane.
> >
> > John
> >
> > John Ford
> > john(at)indstate.edu
> > 812-237-8542
> >
> > >>> lnawms(at)msn.com Monday, March 21, 2005 9:55:02
> AM >>>
> > Piet listers-
> >
> > My 4 year old Pietenpol Air Camper (NX 899LW) is
> officially for sale!!
> >
> > Last Thursday night I had a heart attack. Since my
> employment is now in
> > question and any chance of even being allowed to
> have a Sport Pilot
> > license in the future is pretty remote, I have
> decided that now would be
> > a good time to find the Piet a new home.
> >
> > For those of you who don't know me or haven't been
> to Brodhead the past
> > 3 years, my Air Camper was featured in the Jan
> 2004 issue of Sport
> > Aviation and the E.A.A. is still using it's images
> in their subscription
> > advertisements. It's the one with the subtle
> yellow-with-red-scallops
> > paint job!!
> >
> > I will do my spring Condition Inspection within
> the next few weeks and
> > it'll be ready for the summer. I also have an
> extra prop, spare engine,
> > rib jig, prop duplicator and some other spares
> that are part of the
> > package.
> >
> > My asking price is $16,000 which seems to be
> reasonable for an
> > insurance replacement figure.
> >
> > Since participating on this list indicates a more
> than casual interest
> > in The Air Camper, I'm hoping that one of you will
> pick up on this or
> > pass the info along to a friend. You're a great
> group of guys and I hope
> > you can help me out.
> >
> > Larry
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Rick Holland
>
>
>
>
> browse the many List
> Archive Search & Download,
> much more:
>
http://www.matronics.com/ListFeaturesNavigator?Pietenpol-List
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
________________________________________________________________________________
Larry,
Sorry to hear about your heart condition, but it's WAY too soon to sell your
plane !! Just do all the stuff the Doc says, and have a quick recovery. I
think the best way this list can help you out, is to encourage you to keep
NX899LW, and fly 'er under the new LSA rules...they are taylored to folks like
you.
It just seems to me, you would regret selling the ol' Piet...especially on
those beautiful calm evenings !!
Chuck G.
________________________________________________________________________________
ETAsAhRXUsBxreHgvIpd3U+3l60qJiujcQIUC0DuCQOv4wJpqyP7btcxWYerOl4=
| From: | lshutks(at)webtv.net (Leon Stefan) |
Hello Larry: Chuck is right. It is too early to think about selling. (
the other posts are right also) I had a heart attack 11 months ago. ( at
age 52!!) I thought it was the end of the world for me, but it was not.
I don't know what you do for a living, but I'm sure you can work that
out with your employer. Since I go barrelling down the road in an 80,000
lb monster, I figured no one wanted me out on the highway mixing with
school buses etc, but after being released, they tossed me the keys and
said go for it. I don't think any one works for a more cold heartless
company then I. Good luck. Leon Stefan the "cardiac cowboy" We are now
part of an elite pietenpol fraternity.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Markle" <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Cabane mounting help.... |
Ok, so my center section was already built when I inherited a fuse that was 1"
wider than plans.....so to keep the cabanes vertically straight, I had to add
a some space to the cabane attach fittings along the top longerons on each side.
So does anyone have an idea what's the best way to fill that space? I'm thinking
a round bushing (sort of like a REALLY thick washer). Or (and this is my preference...),
making a thick piece of Ash shaped kinda like the .040" fittings
I've embedded to the ends of the cabanes....basically "building out" the bottoms
of the cabanes to the "full" thickness...
I typically think about this sort of stuff for months before figuring it out but
my brain is tired and I want to finish this up....someone help me here.....
(I made the attached picture small so hopefully it won't cause any download issues
for anyone...)
Thanks!
Jim Markle
Plano, TX
214.505.6101
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cabane mounting help.... |
In a message dated 3/22/2005 5:41:49 PM Central Standard Time,
jim_markle(at)mindspring.com writes:
Ok, so my center section was already built when I inherited a fuse that was
1" wider than plans.....so to keep the cabanes vertically straight, I had to
add a some space to the cabane attach fittings along the top longerons on each
side.
So does anyone have an idea what's the best way to fill that space? I'm
thinking a round bushing (sort of like a REALLY thick washer). Or (and this is
my
preference...), making a thick piece of Ash shaped kinda like the .040"
fittings I've embedded to the ends of the cabanes....basically "building out" the
bottoms of the cabanes to the "full" thickness...
I typically think about this sort of stuff for months before figuring it out
but my brain is tired and I want to finish this up....someone help me here.....
(I made the attached picture small so hopefully it won't cause any download
issues for anyone...)
Thanks!
Jim Markle
Plano, TX
214.505.6101
Jim,
I've been studying your picture, and I see your dilemma. The picture
appears to be the front left lower cabane strut, with a hardware store bolt (used
for pre-fit). Why did you cut the end off the wood that forms the arch ?
I think the first thing to do, is consider all the possible remedies.
Here is the ones I thought of, in the order of their preference:
1) Slant the top of the cabanes inboard, while keeping the bolts in the
horizontal plane - so the wing will still move for & aft. The angle would be
maybe a quarter of a degree. This was my first thought, but I see you already
have the holes drilled in the cabanes. Although, you could use the next size
larger bolt, and file the holes top & bottom, (keeping them round) to maintain
a
horizontal hole....aw, scratch that thought...
2) Offset the upper end of the cabane struts outboard 1/4", and the lower
ends inboard 1/4", thus keeping the cabane struts vertical. This option would
be inline with the old carpenters adage - "Split the Difference". It may
require building new cabane fittings top and bottom.
3) Offset the lower end of the cabanes 1/2" to the inboard, such as your
picture indicates. I don't really like this option, because it seems it would
impart a bending moment on the lower fitting. I take it this would require a
1/2" joggle in the inboard strap fitting ? If you use the piece of Ash wood to
fill the 1/2" outboard difference, I think the Ash should glued into the
outboard sides of the cabanes, and be much longer up the cabane, maybe 4 or 5
inches, and blend into the cabane strut. Also, if you go with this option, I think
you should use the next thicker size inboard strap fitting, with the joggle
in it. The cabanes & fittings should be kept in shear, and with a joggle on
one side, and a bushing on the other side, it just doesn't seem like a good
shear fitting.
4) Build 4 new cabane struts, with the offset built in.
5) Build a new center section.
6) Build a new fuselage.
7) Go get another beer, and sit and look at it for a couple more hours...
Chuck G.
p.s. Jim, I know these parts were already built when you got them, but, OK,
I'm going to say it...This is the reason you hear so often - "Build it to the
Plans". Changes have a ripple effect on everything. One inch wider cockpit
will not make any difference in comfort.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <djv(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabane mounting help.... |
not the answer you want to hear buit if it were me I'd either build a new center
section or make new cabanes that are thicker at the bottom and taper up towards
the top.
The latter option would be easiest and with the different types of wood used for
laminations it'd give a really cool look as the thicker laminations on the bottom
were tapered up at the top.. kinda like the look of a prop.
or.... maybe put your center section in one of those "wood stretchers" and pull
to the desired width ;)
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Markle
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2005 4:40 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Cabane mounting help....
Ok, so my center section was already built when I inherited a fuse that was 1"
wider than plans.....so to keep the cabanes vertically straight, I had to add
a some space to the cabane attach fittings along the top longerons on each side.
So does anyone have an idea what's the best way to fill that space? I'm thinking
a round bushing (sort of like a REALLY thick washer). Or (and this is my
preference...), making a thick piece of Ash shaped kinda like the .040" fittings
I've embedded to the ends of the cabanes....basically "building out" the bottoms
of the cabanes to the "full" thickness...
I typically think about this sort of stuff for months before figuring it out
but my brain is tired and I want to finish this up....someone help me here.....
(I made the attached picture small so hopefully it won't cause any download issues
for anyone...)
Thanks!
Jim Markle
Plano, TX
214.505.6101
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Markle" <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabane mounting help.... |
Thanks DJ and Chuck.......
I love getting these new ideas!!!....whether I use them or not, this gets me thinking
out of the box.....
I like the idea of building new cabanes with the offset built in and also the idea
of making the ash "spacer" taper up 4 or 5 inches....I'm thinking new cabanes
is the better of the two.....
Thanks guys!
And Chuck, that hole in the arch piece is where the arch piece cracked when the
plane was ground looped....seems both arches took more stress than they could
handle.....I've left them on while I build everything else just to keep as much
of "the look" as possible (I'll rebuild the front arch pieces). Having a hole
there did turn out nice for the picture though!
As I type this I'm implementing option 7 below.....I'll work out the others later....
Thanks again guys!
jm
Jim,
I've been studying your picture, and I see your dilemma. The picture appears
to be the front left lower cabane strut, with a hardware store bolt (used
for pre-fit). Why did you cut the end off the wood that forms the arch ?
I think the first thing to do, is consider all the possible remedies. Here
is the ones I thought of, in the order of their preference:
1) Slant the top of the cabanes inboard, while keeping the bolts in the horizontal
plane - so the wing will still move for & aft. The angle would be maybe
a quarter of a degree. This was my first thought, but I see you already have
the holes drilled in the cabanes. Although, you could use the next size larger
bolt, and file the holes top & bottom, (keeping them round) to maintain a
horizontal hole....aw, scratch that thought...
2) Offset the upper end of the cabane struts outboard 1/4", and the lower ends
inboard 1/4", thus keeping the cabane struts vertical. This option would be
inline with the old carpenters adage - "Split the Difference". It may require
building new cabane fittings top and bottom.
3) Offset the lower end of the cabanes 1/2" to the inboard, such as your picture
indicates. I don't really like this option, because it seems it would impart
a bending moment on the lower fitting. I take it this would require a 1/2"
joggle in the inboard strap fitting ? If you use the piece of Ash wood to
fill the 1/2" outboard difference, I think the Ash should glued into the outboard
sides of the cabanes, and be much longer up the cabane, maybe 4 or 5 inches,
and blend into the cabane strut. Also, if you go with this option, I think
you should use the next thicker size inboard strap fitting, with the joggle in
it. The cabanes & fittings should be kept in shear, and with a joggle on one
side, and a bushing on the other side, it just doesn't seem like a good shear
fitting.
4) Build 4 new cabane struts, with the offset built in.
5) Build a new center section.
6) Build a new fuselage.
7) Go get another beer, and sit and look at it for a couple more hours...
Chuck G.
p.s. Jim, I know these parts were already built when you got them, but, OK,
I'm going to say it...This is the reason you hear so often - "Build it to the
Plans". Changes have a ripple effect on everything. One inch wider cockpit will
not make any difference in comfort.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N321TX(at)wmconnect.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cabane mounting help.... |
Chuck should have stated for option 7... "Go get a Guiness Stout and have a
Corona chaser...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabane mounting help.... |
<002801c52f5a$ff21e260$6401a8c0@FAMILY>
Don't forget that there's very little stress on that joint, 150 lb or so.
You do have to multiply that by any G you might pull, of course.
Most of the wing forces are taken by the outer spar/strut joint.
Your concern with that long bolt is bending of the bolt. If you check
the plans you will see that a 1/4" bolt is specified at that location.
You will also see that the strut is considerably narrower than the
space between the brackets and a bushing tube is specified all the
way across from bracket to bracket. The tube takes the bending
loads and the bolt, at the bracket/tube joint takes the shear stress
that bolts are supposed to handle, a division of labour if you will.
Even on a plans built fuselage you have 1 1/4" between the brackets.
The metal struts in the plans aren't even half that distance. Thus
the bushing tube.
The shear strength of that 1/4" AC grade bolt is 6133 lb. You have
two shear locations on that joint. with equal stress on each it can
handle 12266 lb.
Now the brackets themselves are 3/4" wide by 3/32" thick with a
1/4" hole. this means that the load bearing metal is 0.047 square
inches. The tensile strength of 4130 is 90,000 lb/sq in. Thus the at
bracket will handle 4218 lb. There are two of them per strut. There
are eight of them per airplane.
When the bolt is longer than a simple shear joint then bending is
introduced. That would throw all the carefull alignment effort out the
window maybe affecting the flying characteristics adversely and
causing other joints to bear more load than normal. Thus the
aforementioned bushing.
So, if you introduce that taper piece and carefully drill and bush it
with 1/4" ID tube you're away to the races ( haha).
Even if you make new cabanes you can't just center the things on
the bolts. You have to span the bracket space in such a way as to
have only shear loads on the bolts.
If you're interested in a graphic of the spanwise lift distribution of a
hersheybar wing it's half way down this page;
http://clifdawson.ca/Tools_and_Tips.html
#7 is good. I spent the afternoon with #7 and my favourite accountant,
who has reduced my tax load much closer to zero than I would have
thought possible.
Clif
....
Thanks DJ and Chuck.......
I love getting these new ideas!!!....whether I use them or not, this gets me
thinking out of the box.....
I like the idea of building new cabanes with the offset built in and also the
idea of making the ash "spacer" taper up 4 or 5 inches....I'm thinking new cabanes
is the better of the two.....
Thanks guys!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wizzard187(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: marvel shebler venturi |
Pieters: Does anyone have any experience in putting a new one piece venturi
in a marvel Schebler carb.I just got one and I suppose you must take out the
throttle shaft and press out the old one and press in the new one. Any
advice would help
Ken Conrad in cool Iowa with a little snow this morning
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walt evans" <wbeevans(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabane mounting help.... |
Jim,
I wouldn't go with a simple bushing or fat washer, cause any side "lever" forces
would put pressure on the center of the bolt where it's weakest.
better to bore the hole to the bushing OD , and have a long bushing go clear thru
the strut catching both plates on the side of the wood strut. Then to keep
the bottom of the strut in position, use a thin wall bushing over the exposed
part of the long bushing.
Kind of what was designed in the original plans offsetting the streamlined tube
to one side.
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Markle
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 22, 2005 6:40 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Cabane mounting help....
Ok, so my center section was already built when I inherited a fuse that was 1"
wider than plans.....so to keep the cabanes vertically straight, I had to add
a some space to the cabane attach fittings along the top longerons on each side.
So does anyone have an idea what's the best way to fill that space? I'm thinking
a round bushing (sort of like a REALLY thick washer). Or (and this is my
preference...), making a thick piece of Ash shaped kinda like the .040" fittings
I've embedded to the ends of the cabanes....basically "building out" the bottoms
of the cabanes to the "full" thickness...
I typically think about this sort of stuff for months before figuring it out
but my brain is tired and I want to finish this up....someone help me here.....
(I made the attached picture small so hopefully it won't cause any download issues
for anyone...)
Thanks!
Jim Markle
Plano, TX
214.505.6101
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Blackwell <aerialphotos(at)dp.net> |
| Subject: | Re: marvel shebler venturi |
Be careful with that one. They had some problems and several AD's came
out because people were finding out first hand why the prop is on the
airplane. (Hint Its to keep the pilot cool. Let it stop and see if
they do not start sweating.) Might not be a legal requirement on a
homebuilt, but this one makes good sense.
Wizzard187(at)aol.com wrote:
> Pieters: Does anyone have any experience in putting a new one piece
> venturi in a marvel Schebler carb.I just got one and I suppose you
> must take out the throttle shaft and press out the old one and press
> in the new one. Any advice would help
> Ken Conrad in cool Iowa with a little snow this morning
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barry Davis" <bed(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "convert" program |
Hey Walt
I'de like to have it
Barry
bed(at)mindspring.com
----- Original Message -----
From: walt evans
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2005 5:41 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: "convert" program
A year or so ago I offered a program to any one who wanted it. It's called "convert"
and it converts anything to anything. Any volume amounts, any weight
amounts, angles,speed, temp, torque, force, blah, blah, blah. Simple to use,
even the engineers got a kick out of it.
Any body that doesn't have it wants it, just post to the group, and I'll send
it to you directly.
It's about 1/2 meg, and don't want to clog up the group.
walt evans
NX140DL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "convert" program |
Hi Walt, I would like a copy if it's not too much
trouble. Thanks.
Doc
--- Barry Davis wrote:
> Hey Walt
> I'de like to have it
> Barry
> bed(at)mindspring.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: walt evans
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2005 5:41 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: "convert" program
>
>
> A year or so ago I offered a program to any one
> who wanted it. It's called "convert" and it
> converts anything to anything. Any volume amounts,
> any weight amounts, angles,speed, temp, torque,
> force, blah, blah, blah. Simple to use, even the
> engineers got a kick out of it.
> Any body that doesn't have it wants it, just post
> to the group, and I'll send it to you directly.
> It's about 1/2 meg, and don't want to clog up the
> group.
> walt evans
> NX140DL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Carden <flywrite(at)erols.com> |
Netscape/7.2
| Subject: | Conversion program |
Walt:
I'd appreciate a copy of it.
Dick Carden
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | brian jardine <saddleguys(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "convert" program |
Walt,
I'd like a copy also.
Brian
saddleguys(at)yahoo.com
Barry Davis wrote:
Hey Walt
I'de like to have it
Barry
bed(at)mindspring.com
----- Original Message -----
From: walt evans
Subject: Pietenpol-List: "convert" program
A year or so ago I offered a program to any one who wanted it. It's called "convert"
and it converts anything to anything. Any volume amounts, any weight amounts,
angles,speed, temp, torque, force, blah, blah, blah. Simple to use, even
the engineers got a kick out of it.
Any body that doesn't have it wants it, just post to the group, and I'll send it
to you directly.
It's about 1/2 meg, and don't want to clog up the group.
walt evans
NX140DL
---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Ruse <steve(at)wotelectronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: "convert" program |
report
Walt,
If you'll send it to me I'd be glad to host it, then you can just
e-mail a link.
Steve Ruse
Dallas, TX
Very soon to be owner of N6383J
Quoting brian jardine :
> Walt,
> I'd like a copy also.
> Brian
> saddleguys(at)yahoo.com
>
> Barry Davis wrote:
> Hey Walt
> I'de like to have it
> Barry
> bed(at)mindspring.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: walt evans
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, March 20, 2005 5:41 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: "convert" program
>
>
> A year or so ago I offered a program to any one who wanted it. It's
> called "convert" and it converts anything to anything. Any volume
> amounts, any weight amounts, angles,speed, temp, torque, force, blah,
> blah, blah. Simple to use, even the engineers got a kick out of it.
> Any body that doesn't have it wants it, just post to the group, and
> I'll send it to you directly.
> It's about 1/2 meg, and don't want to clog up the group.
> walt evans
> NX140DL
>
>
> ---------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
I upgraded my C-65 Piet to a C-90 from Don's Dream Machine's in
Georgia. Flew it with the new engine installed today. I haven't carried
a passenger yet, but the performance is improved dramatically. It's
getting of the ground in the length of the turnaround at the end the
runway. Might be 150ft. I'm not sure about the rate of climb, but I'm
flying of a 1,200ft strip and the angle of climb improved a bunch too.
I should be just fine with a normal sized passenger now. Should have
done this a long time ago.
Craig Lawler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "walt evans" <wbeevans(at)verizon.net> |
<1f24e07859cc74e7ab2a3a948c56ec4a(at)ptd.net>
Craig,
I see by your email that you have prolog. Are you in eastern PA.?
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: <clawler(at)ptd.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: C-90 Piet
>
> I upgraded my C-65 Piet to a C-90 from Don's Dream Machine's in
> Georgia. Flew it with the new engine installed today. I haven't carried
> a passenger yet, but the performance is improved dramatically. It's
> getting of the ground in the length of the turnaround at the end the
> runway. Might be 150ft. I'm not sure about the rate of climb, but I'm
> flying of a 1,200ft strip and the angle of climb improved a bunch too.
> I should be just fine with a normal sized passenger now. Should have
> done this a long time ago.
>
> Craig Lawler
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Sterling" <sterling(at)pgrb.com> |
| Subject: | Stromberg needles for Continental engines |
Here is a very good link in regard to arguments for stainless steel or Derlin or
Neoprene tipped needles in Stromberg carbs. The link mentions fuel additives
in auto gas is not specific to what additive except with a brief mention of alcohol.
I'm still trying to locate the info I found on the additives MTBE and
TAME and how is affects plastic and neoprene.
http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/stromberg%20needles1.pdf
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Elevator/rudder horns |
| From: | "Textor, Jack" <jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com> |
Happy Easter all,
Do the full size plans for the horns include the bend allowance to form the front
edge?
Thanks!
Jack Textor
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRichmo9(at)aol.com |
well i may have the youngest piet builder around hes 15, and he wants to
build a piet.do you guys think its to big a job for a teen tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isablcorky(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: teen builder |
Tom,
There are teens and then there are teens. You alone will have to judge the
ability of yours. I will say that I knew of a kid (pre teen ) who built a Model
T Ford Sporter from parts and had to wait 3 years before being legally old
enough to drive it (on the streets). Age really has nothing to do with it. If
he can imagine it he can build it.
Corky, the ole school teacher down on the bayou
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TRichmo9(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: teen builder |
In a message dated 3/27/05 12:24:24 P.M. Central Standard Time,
Isablcorky(at)aol.com writes:
Tom,
There are teens and then there are teens. You alone will have to judge the
ability of yours. I will say that I knew of a kid (pre teen ) who built a
Model T Ford Sporter from parts and had to wait 3 years before being legally old
enough to drive it (on the streets). Age really has nothing to do with it. If
he can imagine it he can build it.
Corky, the ole school teacher down on the bayou
thanks corky the kid is pretty good with cars him and his brother built a
jaguar xj6 drag car with a 500 hp chevy sroker its pretty quick
but you cant pull over to the urb at 3000 ft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon Bowen" <gbowen(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | Re: teen builder |
Tom,
I think building a homebuilt can be a great character builder for any young man
and the original wooden Piete is a great place to start. Starting a big project,
having the character to stick with the work no matter what the problems and
lastly seeing the end product of one's labors is an invaluable life learning
experience. Couple $100 worth of Sitka spruce, good wood working tools, plans
are all that's needed. If you're anywhere near Satsuma FL, I'll give the
young Eagle enough rough cut Sitka spruce to get started, if he's got the wood
working tools and desire to buy a set of plans. The wood's in hanger #8 at
Palatka Airport FL., so's my metal Piete. Building a plane can start a lifetime
of love of aviation, even if it takes a lifetime getting done. As I think
most of the fellow members of these web-user homebuilder groups would agree,
being an aviator is more than just being a pilot. Building a plane is as rewarding
on a daily basis as actually taking it for a spin around the pattern.
Gordon Bowen -Homer Alaska
Cozy IV N64CY
Osprey II N64SY
Pietenpol N-1033B Flew again on 3/12/2005
"Fanaticism consists of redoubling your efforts when you have forgotten your aim"
----- Original Message -----
From: TRichmo9(at)aol.com
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2005 9:11 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: teen builder
well i may have the youngest piet builder around hes 15, and he wants to build
a piet.do you guys think its to big a job for a teen tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: teen builder |
Tom, I don't think age is as important as maturity.
If he is motivated and dedicated to the project, there
is no reason he couldn't build an award winning Piet.
Put him to building a few ribs and see how motivated
he is. It wouldn't cost much and he could get spruce
at the lumber yard that will do well for ribs. The
hobby store will have 1/16" Aircraft birch. I'd say
full steam ahead. It will be the young people who
will carry aviation into the future, not us old guys.
Doc
--- TRichmo9(at)aol.com wrote:
> well i may have the youngest piet builder around hes
> 15, and he wants to
> build a piet.do you guys think its to big a job for
> a teen tom
>
__________________________________
http://mobile.yahoo.com/maildemo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike McCarty" <mmccarty(at)zianet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: teen builder |
He'll need a lot of perseverance to see it through to completion. I had the skills
to do something
like this as a teen, but I think it would have been hard for me to see a project
of this size through
to the final product.
I have a 14 year old whose only interest right now is to get this Corvair engine
together and see it run.
We put a long block together and then the Air Force sent me off to Flight Engineer
school last week
for the next six weeks. He's just itching for me to get back so we can wrench
on it. Somewhere along
the way I realized that we didn't orient the pistons properly and that we need
to take it apart and flip half
the pistons over. I was going to help him do it when I got back home. After reading
your post and thinking
about the things I was doing by myself when I was a young teen (building motors,
doing bodywork,
doing carpentry, plumbing and electrical work) I realized that I don't give him
enough leeway to let him
go and learn some of these things on his own. I'm always there supervising him
and if he runs into
trouble doing something I do it for him. As a result he doesn't have a lot of
confidence in being able
to accomplish anything on his own After thinking it over I called him and told
him to go ahead and
disassemble the motor and turn the pistons over. I know he can do it, it's just
the matter of letting
him do it on his own...
-Mike McCarty
----- Original Message -----
From: TRichmo9(at)aol.com
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2005 12:11 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: teen builder
well i may have the youngest piet builder around hes 15, and he wants to build
a piet.do you guys think its to big a job for a teen tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Gower <ggower_99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: teen builder (Go for it!) |
Not at all! He just need guidance and supervison from other builders, parents
and teachers:
Is something great to encourage, the best idea is to finish the proyect when they
are old enough (16 or more) to fly it.
In France there is a school and Assn. that promotes aviation betwen (very) young
boys:
http://www.chez.com/airetespace/
"Click" several pages in "Air et Space" until you find in the left side in "constructuin
colective" a two seater by several of the students and also in "constructions
Individuelles" you can see projects of Flying Fleas with builders
from 12 years old up, teached and helped by adults, but the project is all theirs,
imagine the potential of learning in this boys!!.....
Needs lots of cooperation from the Teachers and the Parents and support from the
Government(s).
In Europe in general Aviation Education with young boys and girls beguin very
early, including Soaring classes. Just like Music and Atheltic or Sports classes.
Saludos
Gary Gower
TRichmo9(at)aol.com wrote:
well i may have the youngest piet builder around hes 15, and he wants to build
a piet.do you guys think its to big a job for a teen tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Elevator/rudder horns |
Yes, just cut them out per the plans, roll the edges (I hammered them over a
1/2" diameter steel rod), bend up the flanges and edge weld them, then drill
the holes. They are fun to make, very light and very strong. I don't
understand why anyone would use flat steel plate horns - too heavy.
Jack
Raleigh, NC
Covering the last aileron and getting ready to start re-painting NX899JP
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Textor,
Jack
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Elevator/rudder horns
Happy Easter all,
Do the full size plans for the horns include the bend allowance to form the
front edge?
Thanks!
Jack Textor
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 03/26/05 |
Walt,
We have a 1,200ft strip located just east of Milton Pa.
Craig Lawler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Blackwell <aerialphotos(at)dp.net> |
| Subject: | Re: teen builder |
As a former flight instructor I ran into this once in a while. I'd
never discourage a kid from wanting to reach for his dreams, but I'd
never turn a kid loose on something like this unless you or someone you
trust completely is helping him along the way.
Something like this reminds me of why I used to like fishing so much.
When I was in my teens, I spent many wonderful hours on a lake. I never
caught much, but I learned a lot about boating, water safety, and some
life saving techniques along the way. When I was 16, I got to take the
boat and go to the lake by myself under certain conditions. Man that
was something. Yet he didn't just turn me loose. He had taught me. He
controlled where I went and when. He checked up behind me and once in a
while he would, "just happen by the lake" and have his rod in the trunk
of the car to make sure I was where I said I was and following the rules
he had set. Id see the car, bring the boat in to pick him up and
usually there would be an hour of fishing left.
It was not till I hit my thirties that I realized the most important
part about fishing and boating was the time I got to spend with my dad
at a key time in my life. One of the tricks he showed me about life
saving on the lake, saved the life a young boy off the coast of South
Carolina. Looking back Id bet you find that building the airplane would
only be a fringe benefit.
TRichmo9(at)aol.com wrote:
> well i may have the youngest piet builder around hes 15, and he wants
> to build a piet.do you guys think its to big a job for a teen tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: teen builder |
Two good friends of mine have now "gone west". Their names were Maurice Fry
and John Davids, and both had impressive careers in aviation.
They grew up in Hartney, Manitoba, Canada and Maurice travelled to
Minneapolis, Minnesota where he took his flying training at Wold Chamberlin
airport during the summer of 1930. When he returned to Hartney with a
Private Pilot Licence, he and his friend, John, decided to build a Pietenpol
Air Camper. I'm not sure when they started construction, but Maurice made
the first three test flights on November 7, 1931. At that time the airplane
was unregistered and unlicenced. A local Royal Canadian Mounted Police
member told Maurice he would have register it and have it inspected by the
Department of Transport. This was done and the registration markings CF-ARH
were assigned. As far as we can determine, this Pietenpol was the first of
the type officially registered in Canada. It was powered by a Ford A engine
which, according to Maurice, gave somewhat marginal performance.
Building an airplane is an undertaking relatively few people carry through
to completion. Maurice and John's accomplishment is especially remarkable
because Maurice was only seventeen years old when he test flew his
creation--and John was just sixteen!
If a kid is fifteen years old and wants to build a Pietenpol, let him or her
do it. It has been done before.
Graham Hansen (Pietenpol CF-AUN)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "DJ Vegh" <djv(at)imagedv.com> |
| Subject: | OT Giant RC B-52 has crashed - video |
remember the huge 25' wingspan 8 turbine powered radio controlled B-52? well
it has crashed.
what a shame
here's the video
http://www.warrixflyinggroup.co.uk/Video/August%2004/Broadband/b52.wmv
also a 20' span Cessna Caravan with turboprop power crashed on takeoff due to reversed
ailerons check it out
http://www.blinddumbanddeaf.com/Videos/ravencrash.mpg
DJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bernadette" <docfont(at)voyager.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Teen Builder |
> From: "Gordon Bowen" <gbowen(at)ptialaska.net>
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: teen builder
>
> Tom,
> I think building a homebuilt can be a great character builder for any
young man
> and the original wooden Piete is a great place to start.
> are all that's needed. If you're anywhere near Satsuma FL, I'll give the
> young Eagle enough rough cut Sitka spruce to get started, if he's got
the wood
> working tools and desire to buy a set of plans. Building a plane
can start a lifetime
> of love of aviation, even if it takes a lifetime getting done.
> Gordon Bowen -Homer Alaska
Greetings Gordon and the rest of the list
My Son is 10 and we are starting on a homebuilt. Plan is to build it on
the low budget system over the next mumble mumble years so it should be
ready to get him a sport pilot license when he is old enough. Low budget
because I am back in the poor college student phase of my life again
adding an RN degree to what I already have. Secondary plan is to use it
to show how all of this homeschool book learning stuff works in real
life. Tertiary plan is to use it as a way to teach him to use all the
fun toys in my harp, spinning wheel and medievil armor building shop.
Matthew is now 10 and has been helping me in the shop for years. At
first it was just, "Hand me that phillips screwdriver" type things but
he learned the names off all the tools. At 8 it was drill press,
catching boards coming out of the planer and power hand tools like the
router. Last year at age 9 he got to turn some simple pieces on the
metal lathe and started on the band saw. This year I will start on some
of the other saws and let him make some things he can sell on ebay and
at renassaince faires.
I've been involved with the renassaince faire/SCA market for 25 years.
That's me mentioned on the Argent Fox Harps webpage; www.argentfox.com/
We have lots of tools to play with. I noticed he's picked up 2 quotes
from time spent together in the shop. "I do good work." and "Uh, don't
tell mom." I noticed him using those expressions I normally use last
spring while we were building a big carved wooden sign and a 2'
illuminated clock that went with it.
Our plane project is a Woodys Pusher not a Pietenpol. Similar in terms
of speed and performance. The Woodys Pusher was designed in a time when
a lot of builders did not have a shop full of tools so many of the parts
were simplified. The Pietenpol is better designed in some ways so I am
using bits of pieces, like truss wing ribs in my project.
Gordon, can I buy a bit of that spruce next month? Woulda started buying
wood this month but my tuition was due last week. Next year Matthew will
be 12 by July and we planned to send him to EAA's aviation camp for a
week. I know a great kid who can use a few of those Young Eagle points
to help pay his tuition to camp if you know anyone with EAA Young Eagle
points.
DocFont, EAA 77755
yep, I think a 5 digit EAA number puts me in old timer, but not quite
geezer status
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy(at)grc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | San Fran Piet Project....guy needs assistance selling...... |
tlc1(at)well.com writes
>I am the executor of an estate of an elderly friend here in San Francisco.
>The estate includes a partially-built Pietenpol. I am seeking advice on
>how I might sell the Piet and what it might be worth. I think it is an Air
>Camper. The fuselage is complete, as is one wing and (I think) the
>elevators and rudder. There are wheels, too, but no engine. The components
>are located in San Francisco. I would appreciate any advice you might give
>me on how best to dispose of it. Are there any Pietenpol afficianados or
>experts here in the Bay Area that might be able to take a look at the Piet?
>
>
>Best regards,
>
>Tom Chester
>
>-----------------
>Thomas L. Chester
>1972 Tenth Avenue
>San Francisco, CA 94116
>(415) 665-7520, Cell (415) 806-3517
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Cabane diagonal struts |
What size round 4130 tubing would be adequate for the cabane diagonal
struts (to the top engine mount fitting)? I have some 3/4" .058 and
some 1" .049 laying around. Also, is their a tubing strength
comparison chart on line somewhere showing the different diameter/wall
thickness sizes?
Thanks
--
Rick Holland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu> |
I want to do this too. Been thinking of the 0-200.
Stevee
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
clawler(at)ptd.net
Subject: Pietenpol-List: C-90 Piet
I upgraded my C-65 Piet to a C-90 from Don's Dream Machine's in
Georgia. Flew it with the new engine installed today. I haven't carried
a passenger yet, but the performance is improved dramatically. It's
getting of the ground in the length of the turnaround at the end the
runway. Might be 150ft. I'm not sure about the rate of climb, but I'm
flying of a 1,200ft strip and the angle of climb improved a bunch too.
I should be just fine with a normal sized passenger now. Should have
done this a long time ago.
Craig Lawler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gordon Bowen" <gbowen(at)ptialaska.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Teen Builder |
To support any Young Eagles or well motivated "teenbuilder" who has adequate
motivation and supervision, I'll donate the wood currently in FL. It's
all excellent 2 yr dryed Kachemak Bay AK Sika spruce. But- rough cut 8.5'
max length (that's the length of my pickup bed), most 3/4" and some 1 1/2"
thick, varies from 4" to 8" wide. Mostly knot free but some small tight
knots. The problem for anyone interested is: 3-400 bf is in the hanger
Palatka FL, you gotta get it yourself somehow. My co-builder of Piete
N-1033B is at the airport everyday, contact Floyd at 386-325-3208, if you'd
like to come and pickup some wood, just put it to the good use of building
tomorrow's aviators.
Each year around Nov. I come south from Homer AK and bring down some wood
for friends that ask for it. It's all rough cut directly from the sawmill,
but hand selected by one of the most environmentally smart and wood savey
sawmillers I've ever had the pleasure go getting to know. It's excellent
wood for homebuilders who what to make something meaningful. So, if any of
you have good Young Eagles projects afoot and need wood, contact me prior to
Nov. each year and I'll see what I can do to get it to you for least cost or
free.
Gordon Bowen -Homer Alaska
Cozy IV N64CY
Osprey II N64SY
Pietenpol N-1033B
"Fanaticism consists of redoubling your efforts when you have forgotten your
aim"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bernadette" <docfont(at)voyager.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Teen Builder
>
> > From: "Gordon Bowen" <gbowen(at)ptialaska.net>
> > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: teen builder
> >
> > Tom,
> > I think building a homebuilt can be a great character builder for any
> young man
> > and the original wooden Piete is a great place to start.
> > are all that's needed. If you're anywhere near Satsuma FL, I'll give
the
> > young Eagle enough rough cut Sitka spruce to get started, if he's got
> the wood
> > working tools and desire to buy a set of plans. Building a plane
> can start a lifetime
> > of love of aviation, even if it takes a lifetime getting done.
> > Gordon Bowen -Homer Alaska
>
> Greetings Gordon and the rest of the list
>
> My Son is 10 and we are starting on a homebuilt. Plan is to build it on
> the low budget system over the next mumble mumble years so it should be
> ready to get him a sport pilot license when he is old enough. Low budget
> because I am back in the poor college student phase of my life again
> adding an RN degree to what I already have. Secondary plan is to use it
> to show how all of this homeschool book learning stuff works in real
> life. Tertiary plan is to use it as a way to teach him to use all the
> fun toys in my harp, spinning wheel and medievil armor building shop.
>
> Matthew is now 10 and has been helping me in the shop for years. At
> first it was just, "Hand me that phillips screwdriver" type things but
> he learned the names off all the tools. At 8 it was drill press,
> catching boards coming out of the planer and power hand tools like the
> router. Last year at age 9 he got to turn some simple pieces on the
> metal lathe and started on the band saw. This year I will start on some
> of the other saws and let him make some things he can sell on ebay and
> at renassaince faires.
>
> I've been involved with the renassaince faire/SCA market for 25 years.
> That's me mentioned on the Argent Fox Harps webpage; www.argentfox.com/
> We have lots of tools to play with. I noticed he's picked up 2 quotes
> from time spent together in the shop. "I do good work." and "Uh, don't
> tell mom." I noticed him using those expressions I normally use last
> spring while we were building a big carved wooden sign and a 2'
> illuminated clock that went with it.
>
> Our plane project is a Woodys Pusher not a Pietenpol. Similar in terms
> of speed and performance. The Woodys Pusher was designed in a time when
> a lot of builders did not have a shop full of tools so many of the parts
> were simplified. The Pietenpol is better designed in some ways so I am
> using bits of pieces, like truss wing ribs in my project.
>
> Gordon, can I buy a bit of that spruce next month? Woulda started buying
> wood this month but my tuition was due last week. Next year Matthew will
> be 12 by July and we planned to send him to EAA's aviation camp for a
> week. I know a great kid who can use a few of those Young Eagle points
> to help pay his tuition to camp if you know anyone with EAA Young Eagle
> points.
>
> DocFont, EAA 77755
> yep, I think a 5 digit EAA number puts me in old timer, but not quite
> geezer status
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
Howdy, Pieters;
I'm working on a smoke system for 41CC but in the meantime, for you smoke
fanatics who can handle video clips, you can take a look at a different type
of smoke system here (it's about a 1MB file):
http://www.flysquirrel.net/Babypowder.mpeg
If you've ever been around infants, you'll understand this (I'm from a
family of 10 kids myself).
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Markle" <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: smoke systems |
My neighbors are wondering what all the laughing is about....
This is great.....
Reminds me of some of the other not so pleasent "oops" occurances I've
experienced during "the process".....this is MUCH more tolerable.....
jm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: smoke systems
>
>
> Howdy, Pieters;
>
> I'm working on a smoke system for 41CC but in the meantime, for you smoke
> fanatics who can handle video clips, you can take a look at a different
> type of smoke system here (it's about a 1MB file):
> http://www.flysquirrel.net/Babypowder.mpeg
>
> If you've ever been around infants, you'll understand this (I'm from a
> family of 10 kids myself).
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Ben Charvet's Piet/Douglas fir |
Ben wrote-
>I built an entire fuselage mock-up with some lumber yard douglas fir
>that I bought before I really knew what the recommendations were
>as far as grain slope, etc.
I looked at Ben's construction photos and everything looks real nice to me.
But beyond that, I am going to stick my neck waaaay out and ask why in the
world build that nice fuselage mock-up only to discard it due to some of the
wood grain slope being "out of spec"? It's fine to build a mock-up out of
scrap for trying out different configurations of things, and it's fine to do
it for the sheer practice and learning to build, but I don't believe I've
every read anything that says the grain slope is critical for any reason
other than to control twist/warpage due to changes in moisture content of
the wood UNLESS we're talking about wing spars. For a truss structure like
the fuselage, with short spans and everything cross-braced, grain slope as a
factor leading to twist or warpage would not only be insignificant, it would
have to all even itself out unless you intentionally aligned all the pieces
with the grain in the same direction... not very likely with that many small
pieces.
There are differences in bending strength when comparing loading parallel or
perpendicular to the grain, but for the fuselage structure where the loads
are tension/compression, I don't see that it would make a bit of difference.
If the stock is clear, knot-free, and has tight grain, I'd like to hear
(for the purpose of my own education) why it wouldn't be suitable for the
fuselage truss structure or even for the tail feathers (braced structures).
I will say this about Douglas fir though... it's a pain to make holes in it
when you're not drilling counter to the grain ("through the layers"). The
layers of grain differ significantly in hardness and the "hard layers" grab
your drill bit and offset the hole you're trying to drill if you don't use a
guide or a short, stiff bit with the work held securely. Having built the
entire structure of my "Flying Squirrel" out of 3/4" square stock fir, I've
made my share of slightly offset holes!
>There are three other Piets under construction within 40 miles of me
I must have missed it in your post. Where are you located?
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ben Charvet" <bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Ben Charvet's Piet/Douglas fir |
Well, the mock-up looks real good in person too....and you're not the first
person to ask why the wood wasn't good enough. The grain run-out problems
were within a foot of the end of the longerons on 2 or 3 of them. If it had
been in the middle I might have been willing to take the chance. I figured
I had a chance of breaking off the tail in a hard landing, or losing the
engine and having a severe out of balance problem :). It probably would
have been fine, but at that stage of the project I wasn't sure if it was
March 01, 2005 - March 28, 2005
Pietenpol-Archive.digest.vol-ej