Pietenpol-Archive.digest.vol-fv
April 18, 2007 - May 17, 2007
Pietenpol-Archive.digest.vol-fv
April 18, 2007 - May 17, 2007
> _________________________________________________________________
> Mortgage rates near historic lows. Refinance $200,000 loan for as low as
> $771/month*
> https://www2.nextag.com/goto.jsp?product=100000035&url=%2fst.jsp&tm=y&search=mortgage_text_links_88_h27f8&disc=y&vers=689&s=4056&p=5117
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Leading edge rap Riblett and oatmeal
Date: Apr 18, 2007
From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
Because of the airfoil or because of the Warner? :0
Steve E.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roman
Bukolt
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 11:47 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge rap Riblett and oatmeal
FYI This is Lowell Frank's blue Piet with the Riblett 612 airfoil. I
does outperform the Piets with Piet airfoils.
Roman Bukolt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Glass" <redsglass(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge rap Riblett and oatmeal
>
>
> Hi Guys
>
> Has a Riblett rib Pietenpol actually flown yet? Does anybody know of
the
> performance?
>
> The other thing I was thinking is that they must have had really "big"
> boxes of oatmeal in the old days.
>
> Steve in Maine
>
>
>>From: "Roman Bukolt" <conceptmodels(at)tds.net>
>>Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>>To:
>>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge rap
>>Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2007 08:45:37 -0500
>>
>>
>>
>>Reference Alum. flashing
>>Sorry, I should have been more specific. Hardware store aluminum
flashing
>>is too soft. The aluminum from the aircraft catalogs is a stiffer
alloy.
>>It works just fine. That's what Bill Rewey used on the Piet he's been
>>flying for the last 17 yrs.
>>Keep in mind, that the front third of an airfoil is where all the
>>performance comes from so the shape of the airfoil between the ribs
can
>>vary depending on the curve of that aluminum, or plywood, or oatmeal
>>cardboard.
>>No matter what you use, the plane will fly. Some better that others.
The
>>whole reason that the Riblett airfoil is so much better than the
Pietenpol
>>airfoil is the first 30%. Much deeper and more rounded leading edge
>>yielding a softer, less critical stall and improved lift because of
the
>>airflow over and under the wing.
>>
>>Just my 50 cents worth (inflation,ya know!)
>>Roman Bukolt NX20795
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Leon Stefan" <lshutks(at)webtv.net>
>>To:
>>Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 10:53 PM
>>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge rap
>>
>>
>>>
>>>I'm surprised al. flashing is too soft. I remember reading once that
BHP
>>>used cardboard about the consistency of Quaker oatmeal containers to
>>>cover only the top of the leading edge. Leon S. in Ks.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Mortgage rates near historic lows. Refinance $200,000 loan for as low
as
> $771/month*
>
https://www2.nextag.com/goto.jsp?product=100000035&url=%2fst.jsp&tm=y&se
arch=mortgage_text_links_88_h27f8&disc=y&vers=689&s=4056&p=5117
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 18, 2007
From: Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Riblett and performance
Roman,
As you may recall, I am an advocate of the Riblett airfoil, at least for guys not
already challenged by CG issues (fat boys, like me). I think anyone of moderate
weight building anew should strongly consider the Riblett airfoil. The
counterpoint is "pure Piet," stick to the design, build to the plans, etc. But
I'd like to focus on performance.
However, with this in mind, as Chuck G. pointed out (I think) doesn't Lowell's
plane also have an over-100hp radial on it? I think the discussion I recall was
comparative climbing rate or how much rollout on takeoff. Higher power, of
course, would distort any comparative results.
You can have another discussion, as well, about the apparent possible higher cruising
speed with a Riblett, and/or the better controlability of the landing in
a smoother stall. All these seem possible with a Riblett, as with the NACA
2412 or 4412 airfoils. Of course, plopping 'em down in really short fields, the
BP-10 Piet should come out way ahead. (As Chuck says, it's like a notch of
flaps all the time.)
Is anyone aware of an apples-to-apples test, Piet vs. Riblett, with the same or
comparable engines-- e.g., when each was equipped with an A-65 or a Corvair engine?
Does anyone have a Riblett airfoil on an A-65?
Please forgive me if I have my facts or past discussions wrong.
Tim in central TX
-----Original Message-----
>From: Roman Bukolt <conceptmodels(at)tds.net>
>Sent: Apr 18, 2007 11:47 AM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge rap Riblett and oatmeal
>
>FYI This is Lowell Frank's blue Piet with the Riblett 612 airfoil. It does
>outperform the Piets with Piet airfoils.
>
>Roman Bukolt
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Steve Glass" <redsglass(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 10:36 AM
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge rap Riblett and oatmeal
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Guys
>>
>> Has a Riblett rib Pietenpol actually flown yet? Does anybody know of the
>> performance? Steve in Maine
>>
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dave Abramson" <davea(at)symbolicdisplays.com>
Subject: Leading edge rap Riblett and oatmeal
Date: Apr 18, 2007
I would say the WARNER!!!!!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve
Eldredge
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 11:02 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge rap Riblett and oatmeal
Because of the airfoil or because of the Warner? :0
Steve E.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roman
Bukolt
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 11:47 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge rap Riblett and oatmeal
FYI This is Lowell Frank's blue Piet with the Riblett 612 airfoil. I
does outperform the Piets with Piet airfoils.
Roman Bukolt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Glass" <redsglass(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge rap Riblett and oatmeal
>
>
> Hi Guys
>
> Has a Riblett rib Pietenpol actually flown yet? Does anybody know of
the
> performance?
>
> The other thing I was thinking is that they must have had really "big"
> boxes of oatmeal in the old days.
>
> Steve in Maine
>
>
>>From: "Roman Bukolt" <conceptmodels(at)tds.net>
>>Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>>To:
>>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge rap
>>Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2007 08:45:37 -0500
>>
>>
>>
>>Reference Alum. flashing
>>Sorry, I should have been more specific. Hardware store aluminum
flashing
>>is too soft. The aluminum from the aircraft catalogs is a stiffer
alloy.
>>It works just fine. That's what Bill Rewey used on the Piet he's been
>>flying for the last 17 yrs.
>>Keep in mind, that the front third of an airfoil is where all the
>>performance comes from so the shape of the airfoil between the ribs
can
>>vary depending on the curve of that aluminum, or plywood, or oatmeal
>>cardboard.
>>No matter what you use, the plane will fly. Some better that others.
The
>>whole reason that the Riblett airfoil is so much better than the
Pietenpol
>>airfoil is the first 30%. Much deeper and more rounded leading edge
>>yielding a softer, less critical stall and improved lift because of
the
>>airflow over and under the wing.
>>
>>Just my 50 cents worth (inflation,ya know!)
>>Roman Bukolt NX20795
>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Leon Stefan" <lshutks(at)webtv.net>
>>To:
>>Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 10:53 PM
>>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge rap
>>
>>
>>>
>>>I'm surprised al. flashing is too soft. I remember reading once that
BHP
>>>used cardboard about the consistency of Quaker oatmeal containers to
>>>cover only the top of the leading edge. Leon S. in Ks.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Mortgage rates near historic lows. Refinance $200,000 loan for as low
as
> $771/month*
>
https://www2.nextag.com/goto.jsp?product=100000035&url=%2fst.jsp&tm=y&se
arch=mortgage_text_links_88_h27f8&disc=y&vers=689&s=4056&p=5117
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 18, 2007
From: Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Riblett and performance
Roman,
Thanks for the quick reply. His radial should be comparable in power to a Corvair,
then, and that might allow a good comparison to a Corvair with a BP-10 foil.
Of course, the torque curves could be quite different. Your project when
finished will be a better metric.
How about asking Lowell if he had a Piet airfoil on it first, and if he has any
comparative data?
Tim in central TX
-----Original Message-----
>From: Roman Bukolt <conceptmodels(at)tds.net>
>Sent: Apr 18, 2007 1:09 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Riblett and performance
>
>
>I'll have a Riblett on my corvair Piet when it's finished, one day in the
>future.
>The radial on Lowell's plane isn't a Warner. I don't recall what it is. I
>do know that it is a 90hp.
>I also know that when I saw it take off, the pilot didn't even go to full
>throttle.
>Other than that, If I remember right, Lowell did fly that same plane and
>cengine with a Piet airfoil, but I may be mistaken.
>
>But as Chucky says, ya gotta admit, with the Piet you can drop'm in a pretty
>small airpatch. Ever see films of a goony bird land? Its like that. PLOP!
>I'd be fun to watch a Piet land with Tundra tires! Boing! Boing! boing!
>etc. etc.etc.
>
>Roman Bukolt
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 18, 2007
From: "walt evans" <waltdak(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Mounting motor cycle tires on rims
Also John,
Put a small dot of paint on the rim and right next to it on the rubber tire.
This will show at a glance if the tire is sliding around the rim from the
quick starting of the tire on landing. I had a valve stem get sheared off on
a Fisher Biplane. Wasn't nice, had to have a friend fly back for another
tube.
Just look at the dots in preflight.
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"No one ever learned anything by talking"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed G." <flyboy_120(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 9:46 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Mounting motor cycle tires on rims
>
>
> Hi John...The tires can easily be mounted with hand tools . Just be really
> careful not to pinch the tube under what ever you use for a tire lever.
> The two nuts go on the outside of the rim. The second nut is a jam nut to
> keep the retaining nut from vibrateing loose as the first nut is not
> supposed to be very tight against the rim, just snug. You probably know
> this but spoked rims need a rubber chafe strip between the rim and the
> tube to keep the spoke nipples from punctureing the tube. Have fun. Ed
> G. .... I'll be at Sun N Fun tomorrow...YeeeHaw.....
>
>>From: John Egan <johnegan99(at)yahoo.com>
>>Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Mounting motor cycle tires on rims
>>Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2007 06:23:11 -0700 (PDT)
>>
>>Hello Group,
>>
>> Does anybody have experiance mounting motor cycle tires on motor cycle
>> rims using typical "home tools"? I built my laced wheels, have tires and
>> tubes, and need to mount them. I expect, I'll need to make a fixture to
>> hold the wheel secure first.
>>
>> Also, I have "TR-6" type valve stems on the inner tube. This is the
>> valve stem that has exterior threads on the entire length of the stem,
>> and two nuts are supplied with the stem. When I look at motor cycle
>> wheel assemblies, this type of stem is often used. Apparently the stem
>> can be held in place on the rim with the two nuts. My question is
>> "should the stem be positioned as far out of the rim as possible (if so,
>> I'm not sure why I need a second nut located inside the rim), or should
>> the stem be located so the inner tube stands away from the rim interior a
>> little at the stem location (requiring the second nut)? "
>>
>> Thank you in advance for any experience you may offer. With your help,
>> I will soon have a rolling fuselage.
>>
>> John E
>> Greenville, Wisconsin
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>---------------------------------
>>Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
>> Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 18, 2007
From: Ben Charvet <bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Elevator bell crank construction....
5/16 seems way to large. I have 1/4 inch holes in mine simply because
that was the size turnbuckles I had. Most light airplanes that I have
looked at use 3/16 bolts through the turnbuckle at the terminal end. I
made mine to the plans with the two thin sheets formed to an airfoil and
then edge welded, with no sleeve.
Ben Charvet
Mims, Fl
Got to meet Doc Mosher today at Sun-N-Fun!
Dave Abramson wrote:
> Hello Everyone!!!!
>
> I am building my Elv. Bellcrank, and was wondering what size clevises
> are used (5/16)??? And should I sleeve where the clevises attach to
> the bellcrank?
>
> (like on the rudder bar pivot bolt 3/8 o.d. tube w/ 5/16 bolt)
>
> Thanks in advance!!!!!!
>
> Dave
>
>* *
>
>* *
>
>* *
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 18, 2007
From: shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: latest
On NX92GB, we used AN eye bolts to hold the center section to the cabanes (rear
cabanes). They are rated at the same sheer load as regular AN-4 bolts or AN-5's
(I can't remember what size they are). These provide an easy way to attach
passenger shoulder harness. The plan is to run a piece of cable from side to
side with quick disconnect type fittings, then attatch the harness. I can't
say we have it all figured out though, we have not hauled passengers yet, or
installed the harness for flight. Just another Idea if any one wants to try it.
Shad
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 18, 2007
From: "KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP" <kmheidecpo(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: latest
Photos please.....
Ken
shad bell wrote:
On NX92GB, we used AN eye bolts to hold the center section to the cabanes (rear
cabanes). They are rated at the same sheer load as regular AN-4 bolts or
AN-5's (I can't remember what size they are). These provide an easy way to attach
passenger shoulder harness. The plan is to run a piece of cable from side
to side with quick disconnect type fittings, then attatch the harness. I can't
say we have it all figured out though, we have not hauled passengers yet,
or installed the harness for flight. Just another Idea if any one wants to try
it.
Shad
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out new cars at Yahoo! Autos.
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Peter W Johnson" <vk3eka(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Mounting motor cycle tires on rims
Date: Apr 19, 2007
John,
I have Motor cycle rims on my Piet. I must admit I cheat and let a motor
cycle shop put the tyres on for me. Very cheap and I know it=92s done
correctly. Other than that you need a couple of long tyre irons and
plenty
of soapy water. Advice I have had regarding the valve stem is to only
use
one nut. This is placed against the valve stem cap leaving the whole of
the
valve stem visible. The valve stem is therefore free to move a bit if
the
tyre/tube flexes a bit too much on landing.
Hope that helps.
Cheers
Peter
Wonthaggi Australia
HYPERLINK "http://www.cpc-world.com/"http://www.cpc-world.com
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Egan
Sent: Wednesday, 18 April 2007 11:23 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Mounting motor cycle tires on rims
Hello Group,
Does anybody have experiance mounting motor cycle tires on motor cycle
rims
using typical "home tools"? I built my laced wheels, have tires and
tubes,
and need to mount them. I expect, I'll need to make a fixture to hold
the
wheel secure first.
Also, I have "TR-6" type valve stems on the inner tube. This is the
valve
stem that has exterior threads on the entire length of the stem, and two
nuts are supplied with the stem. When I look at motor cycle wheel
assemblies, this type of stem is often used. Apparently the stem can be
held in place on the rim with the two nuts. My question is "should the
stem
be positioned as far out of the rim as possible (if so, I'm not sure why
I
need a second nut located inside the rim), or should the stem be located
so
the inner tube stands away from the rim interior a little at the stem
location (requiring the second nut)? "
Thank you in advance for any experience you may offer. With your help, I
will soon have a rolling fuselage.
John E
Greenville, Wisconsin
_____
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out HYPERLINK
"http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48245/*http:/autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html;
_ylc
X3oDMTE1YW1jcXJ2BF9TAzk3MTA3MDc2BHNlYwNtYWlsdGFncwRzbGsDbmV3LWNhcnM-"new
cars at Yahoo! Autos.
"http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List"http://www.matronics.c
om/
Navigator?Pietenpol-List
"http://forums.matronics.com"http://forums.matronics.com
--
18/04/2007
7:39 AM
--
18/04/2007
7:39 AM
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 18, 2007
From: Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Anyone want to talk about slipping a Piet
Go here;
http://westcoastpiet.com/Videos/AirCamper-Slip.mpeg
You may have to use the Realplayer option to see it
properly.
Clif
Roman,
Good for you.
Two basic things my instructor taught me........................
Say you're going to slip to the left......................
1. Right rudder to the stops. (that's the standard, never let up on
that)
2. left aileron to the left, use the left aileron as needed to
get PROPER GROUND TRACK.
3. All the time watching the nose pitch. the airspeed indicator will
read funky due to the air going over the pitot at an angle, and not
reading correctly.
You've got to keep the nose pitched down,,,,lots more that normal!!!!
then when you get good over the field,, like 20 feet,,,relax
everyting!!!!
And land as normal
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"No one ever learned anything by talking"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Scott Knowlton" <flyingscott_k(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Anyone want to talk about slipping a Piet
Date: Apr 19, 2007
Nice video. What an inspiration to get back to the shop and keep building
(not to mention the inspiration to drive the 12 hours to go back to
Broadhead this summer).
Scott K (a slow piet builder in Ontario)
>From: Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca>
>Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Anyone want to talk about slipping a Piet
>Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2007 23:26:38 -0700
>
>Go here;
>
>http://westcoastpiet.com/Videos/AirCamper-Slip.mpeg
>
>You may have to use the Realplayer option to see it
>properly.
>
>Clif
>
> Roman,
> Good for you.
> Two basic things my instructor taught me........................
> Say you're going to slip to the left......................
> 1. Right rudder to the stops. (that's the standard, never let up on
>that)
> 2. left aileron to the left, use the left aileron as needed to get
>PROPER GROUND TRACK.
> 3. All the time watching the nose pitch. the airspeed indicator will
>read funky due to the air going over the pitot at an angle, and not reading
>correctly.
> You've got to keep the nose pitched down,,,,lots more that normal!!!!
> then when you get good over the field,, like 20 feet,,,relax
>everyting!!!!
> And land as normal
> Walt Evans
> NX140DL
> "No one ever learned anything by talking"
_________________________________________________________________
Find the best places on campus to get take out, study & unwind
http://www.liveu.ca/explore.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Douwe Blumberg" <douweblumberg(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Lowell Frank's Piet
Date: Apr 19, 2007
I'm thinking that this was discussed here a while back, but maybe it's
my memory. In any case, I spoke with Lowell at Brodhead the year he
first flew with his new wings. All he did was build a new set of wings,
nothing else was changed. So this gives a side by side exact
comparison.
If someone talks to him regularly, they should write down the specs and
post them, if not I can call him.
I do remember him saying that his cruise speed went up, his stall speed
went down, the stall was gentler, his climb was quicker and I'm thinking
his landing speed was slower.
Other than that, nothing really changed.
Douwe
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2007
From: Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Lowell Frank's Piet
There could be no better test. We would all benefit from Lowell's expeience. Will
someone volunteer to get his comparative data?
Thanks,
Tim in central TX
-----Original Message-----
>From: Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg(at)earthlink.net>
>Sent: Apr 19, 2007 7:53 AM
>To: pietenpolgroup
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Lowell Frank's Piet
>
>I'm thinking that this was discussed here a while back, but maybe it's my memory.
In any case, I spoke with Lowell at Brodhead the year he first flew with
his new wings. All he did was build a new set of wings, nothing else was changed.
So this gives a side by side exact comparison.
>
>If someone talks to him regularly, they should write down the specs and post them,
if not I can call him.
>
>I do remember him saying that his cruise speed went up, his stall speed went down,
the stall was gentler, his climb was quicker and I'm thinking his landing
speed was slower.
>
>Other than that, nothing really changed.
>
>Douwe
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert Gow" <rgow(at)avionicsdesign.ca>
Subject: Anyone want to talk about slipping a Piet
Date: Apr 19, 2007
The only planes I flew for years were my T'craft or my Chief. When I
checked out in a 172 I was completely confused by a slipless flapped
approach. I couldn't get used to landing with the nose lined up with the
runway.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott
Knowlton
Sent: April 19, 2007 9:52 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Anyone want to talk about slipping a Piet
Nice video. What an inspiration to get back to the shop and keep building
(not to mention the inspiration to drive the 12 hours to go back to
Broadhead this summer).
Scott K (a slow piet builder in Ontario)
>From: Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca>
>Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Anyone want to talk about slipping a Piet
>Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2007 23:26:38 -0700
>
>Go here;
>
>http://westcoastpiet.com/Videos/AirCamper-Slip.mpeg
>
>You may have to use the Realplayer option to see it
>properly.
>
>Clif
>
> Roman,
> Good for you.
> Two basic things my instructor taught me........................
> Say you're going to slip to the left......................
> 1. Right rudder to the stops. (that's the standard, never let up on
>that)
> 2. left aileron to the left, use the left aileron as needed to get
>PROPER GROUND TRACK.
> 3. All the time watching the nose pitch. the airspeed indicator will
>read funky due to the air going over the pitot at an angle, and not reading
>correctly.
> You've got to keep the nose pitched down,,,,lots more that normal!!!!
> then when you get good over the field,, like 20 feet,,,relax
>everyting!!!!
> And land as normal
> Walt Evans
> NX140DL
> "No one ever learned anything by talking"
_________________________________________________________________
Find the best places on campus to get take out, study & unwind
http://www.liveu.ca/explore.aspx
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2007
From: "KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP" <kmheidecpo(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Anyone want to talk about slipping a Piet
If you all really want to slip an airplane in any flying conditions to include
high winds....try an Ercoupe! Now thats a modified slip looking over the passengers
shoulders!....tee-hee-hee
Ken
Robert Gow wrote:
The only planes I flew for years were my T'craft or my Chief. When I
checked out in a 172 I was completely confused by a slipless flapped
approach. I couldn't get used to landing with the nose lined up with the
runway.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott
Knowlton
Sent: April 19, 2007 9:52 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Anyone want to talk about slipping a Piet
Nice video. What an inspiration to get back to the shop and keep building
(not to mention the inspiration to drive the 12 hours to go back to
Broadhead this summer).
Scott K (a slow piet builder in Ontario)
>From: Clif Dawson
>Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Anyone want to talk about slipping a Piet
>Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2007 23:26:38 -0700
>
>Go here;
>
>http://westcoastpiet.com/Videos/AirCamper-Slip.mpeg
>
>You may have to use the Realplayer option to see it
>properly.
>
>Clif
>
> Roman,
> Good for you.
> Two basic things my instructor taught me........................
> Say you're going to slip to the left......................
> 1. Right rudder to the stops. (that's the standard, never let up on
>that)
> 2. left aileron to the left, use the left aileron as needed to get
>PROPER GROUND TRACK.
> 3. All the time watching the nose pitch. the airspeed indicator will
>read funky due to the air going over the pitot at an angle, and not reading
>correctly.
> You've got to keep the nose pitched down,,,,lots more that normal!!!!
> then when you get good over the field,, like 20 feet,,,relax
>everyting!!!!
> And land as normal
> Walt Evans
> NX140DL
> "No one ever learned anything by talking"
_________________________________________________________________
Find the best places on campus to get take out, study & unwind
http://www.liveu.ca/explore.aspx
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2007
From: "walt evans" <waltdak(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Anyone want to talk about slipping a Piet
exactly!!!
I have that vid, but I love to watch it over and over
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"No one ever learned anything by talking"
----- Original Message -----
From: Clif Dawson
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 2:26 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Anyone want to talk about slipping a Piet
Go here;
http://westcoastpiet.com/Videos/AirCamper-Slip.mpeg
You may have to use the Realplayer option to see it
properly.
Clif
Roman,
Good for you.
Two basic things my instructor taught me........................
Say you're going to slip to the left......................
1. Right rudder to the stops. (that's the standard, never let up on
that)
2. left aileron to the left, use the left aileron as needed to
get PROPER GROUND TRACK.
3. All the time watching the nose pitch. the airspeed indicator
will read funky due to the air going over the pitot at an angle, and not
reading correctly.
You've got to keep the nose pitched down,,,,lots more that
normal!!!!
then when you get good over the field,, like 20 feet,,,relax
everyting!!!!
And land as normal
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"No one ever learned anything by talking"
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2007
From: "walt evans" <waltdak(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Anyone want to talk about slipping a Piet
Bob,
I've said before that with the few planes over the years that I've checked
out in, with flaps. I could get into alot tighter places while slipping my
Piet.
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"No one ever learned anything by talking"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Gow" <rgow(at)avionicsdesign.ca>
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 10:43 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Anyone want to talk about slipping a Piet
>
>
> The only planes I flew for years were my T'craft or my Chief. When I
> checked out in a 172 I was completely confused by a slipless flapped
> approach. I couldn't get used to landing with the nose lined up with the
> runway.
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott
> Knowlton
> Sent: April 19, 2007 9:52 AM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Anyone want to talk about slipping a Piet
>
>
>
>
> Nice video. What an inspiration to get back to the shop and keep building
> (not to mention the inspiration to drive the 12 hours to go back to
> Broadhead this summer).
>
> Scott K (a slow piet builder in Ontario)
>
>
>>From: Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca>
>>Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Anyone want to talk about slipping a Piet
>>Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2007 23:26:38 -0700
>>
>>Go here;
>>
>>http://westcoastpiet.com/Videos/AirCamper-Slip.mpeg
>>
>>You may have to use the Realplayer option to see it
>>properly.
>>
>>Clif
>>
>> Roman,
>> Good for you.
>> Two basic things my instructor taught me........................
>> Say you're going to slip to the left......................
>> 1. Right rudder to the stops. (that's the standard, never let up on
>>that)
>> 2. left aileron to the left, use the left aileron as needed to get
>>PROPER GROUND TRACK.
>> 3. All the time watching the nose pitch. the airspeed indicator will
>>read funky due to the air going over the pitot at an angle, and not
>>reading
>>correctly.
>> You've got to keep the nose pitched down,,,,lots more that normal!!!!
>> then when you get good over the field,, like 20 feet,,,relax
>>everyting!!!!
>> And land as normal
>> Walt Evans
>> NX140DL
>> "No one ever learned anything by talking"
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Find the best places on campus to get take out, study & unwind
> http://www.liveu.ca/explore.aspx
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2007
From: "Ken Chambers" <ken.riffic(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Is a CHT gauge necessary, or just nice?
OK, I've finally got a little money and I'm putting my instrument panel
together. For the engine, I figure the oil pressure and temp gauges are
essential. And of course the tach. But I'm wondering if you veteran A-65
pilots like to keep tabs on the cylinder head temp? My mentor (my Dad) says
he never had much use for one, but it seems like it might come in handy.
Also, anyone have experience cutting the holes with a common hole saw? Does
that work, if you back up the plywood, or does it chew up the backside
anyway? Maybe a fly cutter is the way to go?
Thanks in advance
Ken, making slow progress in Austin, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene Rambo" <generambo(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Is a CHT gauge necessary, or just nice?
Date: Apr 19, 2007
If you can't change it, it doesn't do you any good. I'd chuck it.
Also, for thin plywood, I like using a flycutter, just back it up with a
piece of soft pine or something.
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Chambers<mailto:ken.riffic(at)gmail.com>
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 5:26 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Is a CHT gauge necessary, or just nice?
OK, I've finally got a little money and I'm putting my instrument
panel together. For the engine, I figure the oil pressure and temp
gauges are essential. And of course the tach. But I'm wondering if you
veteran A-65 pilots like to keep tabs on the cylinder head temp? My
mentor (my Dad) says he never had much use for one, but it seems like it
might come in handy.
Also, anyone have experience cutting the holes with a common hole saw?
Does that work, if you back up the plywood, or does it chew up the
backside anyway? Maybe a fly cutter is the way to go?
Thanks in advance
Ken, making slow progress in Austin, Texas
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
m/Navigator?Pietenpol-List>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2007
From: "walt evans" <waltdak(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Is a CHT gauge necessary, or just nice?
Cylinder temp? Naw, only watched that when flying 2 strokes
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"No one ever learned anything by talking"
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Chambers
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 5:26 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Is a CHT gauge necessary, or just nice?
OK, I've finally got a little money and I'm putting my instrument
panel together. For the engine, I figure the oil pressure and temp
gauges are essential. And of course the tach. But I'm wondering if you
veteran A-65 pilots like to keep tabs on the cylinder head temp? My
mentor (my Dad) says he never had much use for one, but it seems like it
might come in handy.
Also, anyone have experience cutting the holes with a common hole saw?
Does that work, if you back up the plywood, or does it chew up the
backside anyway? Maybe a fly cutter is the way to go?
Thanks in advance
Ken, making slow progress in Austin, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2007
From: <bike.mike(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Anyone want to talk about slipping a Piet
I had reason, sometime back before the dynasaurs were extinct, to slip an F-4 into
an approch for which I was poorly set up (too high, too fast). My back-seater,
having never been in a real airplane*, screamed bloody murder all the way
to our safe landing.
I was able later to make him realize that a slip is an excellent way to get down
in a hurry, even in 15 tons of military brick.
Mike Hardaway
PS: *A real airplane has one engine in front and the tail wheel is on the correct
end.
---- walt evans wrote:
>
> Bob,
> I've said before that with the few planes over the years that I've checked
> out in, with flaps. I could get into alot tighter places while slipping my
> Piet.
> Walt Evans
> NX140DL
> "No one ever learned anything by talking"
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert Gow" <rgow(at)avionicsdesign.ca>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2007 10:43 AM
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Anyone want to talk about slipping a Piet
>
>
> >
> >
> > The only planes I flew for years were my T'craft or my Chief. When I
> > checked out in a 172 I was completely confused by a slipless flapped
> > approach. I couldn't get used to landing with the nose lined up with the
> > runway.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott
> > Knowlton
> > Sent: April 19, 2007 9:52 AM
> > To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Anyone want to talk about slipping a Piet
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Nice video. What an inspiration to get back to the shop and keep building
> > (not to mention the inspiration to drive the 12 hours to go back to
> > Broadhead this summer).
> >
> > Scott K (a slow piet builder in Ontario)
> >
> >
> >>From: Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca>
> >>Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> >>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> >>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Anyone want to talk about slipping a Piet
> >>Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2007 23:26:38 -0700
> >>
> >>Go here;
> >>
> >>http://westcoastpiet.com/Videos/AirCamper-Slip.mpeg
> >>
> >>You may have to use the Realplayer option to see it
> >>properly.
> >>
> >>Clif
> >>
> >> Roman,
> >> Good for you.
> >> Two basic things my instructor taught me........................
> >> Say you're going to slip to the left......................
> >> 1. Right rudder to the stops. (that's the standard, never let up on
> >>that)
> >> 2. left aileron to the left, use the left aileron as needed to get
> >>PROPER GROUND TRACK.
> >> 3. All the time watching the nose pitch. the airspeed indicator will
> >>read funky due to the air going over the pitot at an angle, and not
> >>reading
> >>correctly.
> >> You've got to keep the nose pitched down,,,,lots more that normal!!!!
> >> then when you get good over the field,, like 20 feet,,,relax
> >>everyting!!!!
> >> And land as normal
> >> Walt Evans
> >> NX140DL
> >> "No one ever learned anything by talking"
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Find the best places on campus to get take out, study & unwind
> > http://www.liveu.ca/explore.aspx
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Riblett and performance
From: "Don Emch" <EmchAir(at)aol.com>
Date: Apr 19, 2007
Lowell Frank used to have an inverted Funk engine ( Ford Model B actually turned
upright, does that make sense?), then he went to a 145 HP Warner ( that's right,
a 145), he sold that a few years ago and put a Lambert on it about 2 or so
years ago. I think that is the 90 horse. I flew with him when it had the 145
on it. It was all engine!
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108006#108006
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 19, 2007
From: "KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP" <kmheidecpo(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Anyone want to talk about slipping a Piet
Clif,
That was a very nice slip and landing......wish I was at the controls.
Ken Heide
Fargo, ND
Clif Dawson wrote:
Go here;
http://westcoastpiet.com/Videos/AirCamper-Slip.mpeg
You may have to use the Realplayer option to see it
properly.
Clif
Roman,
Good for you.
Two basic things my instructor taught me........................
Say you're going to slip to the left......................
1. Right rudder to the stops. (that's the standard, never let up on that)
2. left aileron to the left, use the left aileron as needed to get PROPER
GROUND TRACK.
3. All the time watching the nose pitch. the airspeed indicator will read funky
due to the air going over the pitot at an angle, and not reading correctly.
You've got to keep the nose pitched down,,,,lots more that normal!!!!
then when you get good over the field,, like 20 feet,,,relax everyting!!!!
And land as normal
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"No one ever learned anything by talking"
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Is a CHT gauge necessary, or just nice?
Date: Apr 20, 2007
From: <harvey.rule(at)bell.ca>
I'm putting one on my Franklin soon but I'm not sure which cylinder to
put it on.I'm only using one temperature gauge.
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken
Chambers
Sent: April 19, 2007 5:26 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Is a CHT gauge necessary, or just nice?
OK, I've finally got a little money and I'm putting my instrument panel
together. For the engine, I figure the oil pressure and temp gauges are
essential. And of course the tach. But I'm wondering if you veteran A-65
pilots like to keep tabs on the cylinder head temp? My mentor (my Dad)
says he never had much use for one, but it seems like it might come in
handy.
Also, anyone have experience cutting the holes with a common hole saw?
Does that work, if you back up the plywood, or does it chew up the
backside anyway? Maybe a fly cutter is the way to go?
Thanks in advance
Ken, making slow progress in Austin, Texas
________________________________________________________________________________
From: lshutks(at)webtv.net (Leon Stefan)
Date: Apr 20, 2007
Subject: Hoe saw
I've had good luck with a hole saw by backing the work with a wood
block. Also you can start your hole from one side, then finish it from
the other side. that works well when free hading with a hand drill. Fly
cutters are great but only in a drill press. Leon S. In Ks. wishing I
were in Fl.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Graham and Robyn" <grhewitt(at)globaldial.com>
Subject: Re Rudder/TaFor riggingilwheel cables
Date: Apr 20, 2007
For rigging tail wheel steering cables, what are your views, to avoid
excess weight; instead of running cables all
the way from the rear rudder pedals to the tail wheel, what about
splicing by Nico Press the tail wheel cables to the rudder cables just
before they exit the side of the fuse?
Would this cause any side loads on the rudder cable with possible lost
motion?
Thanks Graham Hewitt
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re Rudder/TaFor riggingilwheel cables
Date: Apr 20, 2007
From: <harvey.rule(at)bell.ca>
I don't think so if you include the springs with the connection at the
back on the tail wheel butterfly connection. It may make it feel heavier
in flight to move the rudder but still doable as long as the springs
aren't too tight or heavy duty..
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Graham
and Robyn
Sent: April 20, 2007 7:06 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re Rudder/TaFor riggingilwheel cables
For rigging tail wheel steering cables, what are your views, to avoid
excess weight; instead of running cables all
the way from the rear rudder pedals to the tail wheel, what about
splicing by Nico Press the tail wheel cables to the rudder cables just
before they exit the side of the fuse?
Would this cause any side loads on the rudder cable with possible lost
motion?
Thanks Graham Hewitt
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 20, 2007
From: santiago morete <moretesantiago(at)yahoo.com.ar>
Subject: Tail attachment
I have seen in the archives a question about the attachment of the horizontal stab
to the fuselage (from Rick Holland) that intererst me, and since it doesn't
have an answer I will post it again.
The two bottom fittings are attached to each other with two
horizontal bolts through the fuselage tailpost, however the fuselage
sides are angled. Did you guys makes 4 wedged shaped washers out of
something so the bolt head and nut seat flat or add 2 wood wedges for
the fittings to sit on?
I will use bolts, no rivets.
Another question, I have seen Piets with the horizontal stab bolted at the leading
edge, main spar or both. I plan to bolt it trough the main beam. What would
be recommendable? Thanks
Saludos
Santiago
---------------------------------
Pregunt. Respond. Descubr.
Todo lo que queras saber, y lo que ni imaginabas,
est en Yahoo! Respuestas (Beta).
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 20, 2007
From: Jonathan Scholl <chasamba9999(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Is a CHT gauge necessary, or just nice?
just try to pick the cyl with least airflow. Typically a rear one! Often found
on number 3.
harvey.rule(at)bell.ca wrote:
v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) } Im putting one on my
Franklin soon but Im not sure which cylinder to put it on.Im only using one temperature
gauge.
---------------------------------
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Chambers
Sent: April 19, 2007 5:26 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Is a CHT gauge necessary, or just nice?
OK, I've finally got a little money and I'm putting my instrument panel together.
For the engine, I figure the oil pressure and temp gauges are essential. And
of course the tach. But I'm wondering if you veteran A-65 pilots like to keep
tabs on the cylinder head temp? My mentor (my Dad) says he never had much use
for one, but it seems like it might come in handy.
Also, anyone have experience cutting the holes with a common hole saw? Does that
work, if you back up the plywood, or does it chew up the backside anyway? Maybe
a fly cutter is the way to go?
Thanks in advance
Ken, making slow progress in Austin, Texas
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Is a CHT gauge necessary, or just nice?
Date: Apr 20, 2007
From: <harvey.rule(at)bell.ca>
Thanks,I'll try that one.
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jonathan
Scholl
Sent: April 20, 2007 11:30 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Is a CHT gauge necessary, or just nice?
just try to pick the cyl with least airflow. Typically a rear one!
Often found on number 3.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Glass" <redsglass(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Hoe saw
Date: Apr 20, 2007
I to would rather cut with a hole saw than a flycutter. The hole is not as
crisp but the cut is safer and more controllable.
"HOE saw" careful look what happened to Imus.
Steve in Maine
>From: lshutks(at)webtv.net (Leon Stefan)
>Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Hoe saw
>Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2007 06:21:25 -0500
>
>
>I've had good luck with a hole saw by backing the work with a wood
>block. Also you can start your hole from one side, then finish it from
>the other side. that works well when free hading with a hand drill. Fly
>cutters are great but only in a drill press. Leon S. In Ks. wishing I
>were in Fl.
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Download Messenger. Join the im Initiative. Help make a difference today.
http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=TAGHM_APR07
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Douwe Blumberg" <douweblumberg(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: lowell frank's stats
Date: Apr 20, 2007
Spoke with Lowell Frank today, and he gave me his best estimates of the
differences between his plane with the Piet wing and the same plane now
with the Ribblett 612.
His plane is exactly the same, except the new wing is two feet shorter.
He did this because the new wing has more lift. He says he recommends
people leave the original length now to get extra lift and he doesn't
think it'll slow things down much at all.
Most of you know, but his plane has a 90hp Lambert on it, which it did
with the Piet wing too. He's also had a model B on it, a Funk engine, a
145 Warner and now the lambert.
He says the most noticible difference is in the top speed, which he says
increased 15 mph
Stall dropped about 5 mph
He claims the climb almost doubled
it is much more responsive to throttle changes now.
Hope this helps. I'd like to purchase some Ribblett drawings, can
someone get me his contact info?
Thanks
Douwe
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 20, 2007
From: Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: lowell frank's stats
Douwe,
Those are impressive differences. I would think that with an A-65 there might
not be that much difference in cruising speed.
Re the drawing, Roman Bukolt has scaled out the Riblett 613.5, which Riblett himself
says is the best for the Piet. (It has a taller camber on the upper surface
than the 612.) IMHO, the 613.5 should accentuate the benefits that Lowell
found of the Riblett 612 over the BP-10.
Roman sells the full scale drawings of the 613.5 for $10 or $15-- I forget which--
postage paid. You might contact him. I found it to be a very workable drawing.
(I am not building that airfoil now, however.)
Roman also has the plots for the 613.5, which are NOT included in Riblett's last
edition of his "GA Airfoils." I don't recall if he has the plots for the 612,
but I do, if you need them, as I got them from my copy of Riblett's book.
Tim in central TX
-----Original Message-----
>From: Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg(at)earthlink.net>
>Sent: Apr 20, 2007 1:51 PM
>To: pietenpolgroup
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: lowell frank's stats
>
>Spoke with Lowell Frank today, and he gave me his best estimates of the differences
between his plane with the Piet wing and the same plane now with the Ribblett
612.
>
>His plane is exactly the same, except the new wing is two feet shorter. He did
this because the new wing has more lift. He says he recommends people leave
the original length now to get extra lift and he doesn't think it'll slow things
down much at all.
>
>Most of you know, but his plane has a 90hp Lambert on it, which it did with the
Piet wing too. He's also had a model B on it, a Funk engine, a 145 Warner and
now the lambert.
>
>He says the most noticible difference is in the top speed, which he says increased
15 mph
>
>Stall dropped about 5 mph
>
>He claims the climb almost doubled
>
>it is much more responsive to throttle changes now.
>
>Hope this helps. I'd like to purchase some Ribblett drawings, can someone get
me his contact info?
>
>Thanks
>
>Douwe
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 20, 2007
From: Charles Tracy <charlestracy2635(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: lowell frank's stats
I ran across this link while looking at the Airplane PDQ web site. They have a
long list of airfoils that you can download for free in autocad. I believe the
Ribblett 612 is one of them. This might help in developing a rib. Of coarse it
would be easier if someone has a layout with rib framing already. Download the
zip file at this address:
http://www.davincitechnologies.com/AirfoilOptimizerStdAirfoils.htm
Charlie
Douwe Blumberg wrote:
Spoke with Lowell Frank today, and he gave me his best estimates of the
differences between his plane with the Piet wing and the same plane now with
the Ribblett 612.
His plane is exactly the same, except the new wing is two feet shorter. He did
this because the new wing has more lift. He says he recommends people leave
the original length now to get extra lift and he doesn't think it'll slow things
down much at all.
Most of you know, but his plane has a 90hp Lambert on it, which it did with the
Piet wing too. He's also had a model B on it, a Funk engine, a 145 Warner
and now the lambert.
He says the most noticible difference is in the top speed, which he says increased
15 mph
Stall dropped about 5 mph
He claims the climb almost doubled
it is much more responsive to throttle changes now.
Hope this helps. I'd like to purchase some Ribblett drawings, can someone get
me his contact info?
Thanks
Douwe
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roman Bukolt" <conceptmodels(at)tds.net>
Subject: Re: lowell frank's stats
Date: Apr 20, 2007
FYI
I have the full size drawings of both the Riblett 612 and the Riblett 613.5
available. They are $10.00 each including shipping and handling.
BTW 24 Piet people so far have ordered the 612 and two ordered both the 612
anf the 613.5.
Roman Bukolt (Not Roman Gukolt)
6505 Urich Terr.
Madison, Wi. 53719
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Willis" <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 3:56 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: lowell frank's stats
>
>
> Douwe,
>
> Those are impressive differences. I would think that with an A-65 there
> might not be that much difference in cruising speed.
>
> Re the drawing, Roman Bukolt has scaled out the Riblett 613.5, which
> Riblett himself says is the best for the Piet. (It has a taller camber on
> the upper surface than the 612.) IMHO, the 613.5 should accentuate the
> benefits that Lowell found of the Riblett 612 over the BP-10.
>
> Roman sells the full scale drawings of the 613.5 for $10 or $15-- I forget
> which-- postage paid. You might contact him. I found it to be a very
> workable drawing. (I am not building that airfoil now, however.)
>
> Roman also has the plots for the 613.5, which are NOT included in
> Riblett's last edition of his "GA Airfoils." I don't recall if he has the
> plots for the 612, but I do, if you need them, as I got them from my copy
> of Riblett's book.
>
> Tim in central TX
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg(at)earthlink.net>
>>Sent: Apr 20, 2007 1:51 PM
>>To: pietenpolgroup
>>Subject: Pietenpol-List: lowell frank's stats
>>
>>Spoke with Lowell Frank today, and he gave me his best estimates of the
>>differences between his plane with the Piet wing and the same plane now
>>with the Ribblett 612.
>>
>>His plane is exactly the same, except the new wing is two feet shorter.
>>He did this because the new wing has more lift. He says he recommends
>>people leave the original length now to get extra lift and he doesn't
>>think it'll slow things down much at all.
>>
>>Most of you know, but his plane has a 90hp Lambert on it, which it did
>>with the Piet wing too. He's also had a model B on it, a Funk engine, a
>>145 Warner and now the lambert.
>>
>>He says the most noticible difference is in the top speed, which he says
>>increased 15 mph
>>
>>Stall dropped about 5 mph
>>
>>He claims the climb almost doubled
>>
>>it is much more responsive to throttle changes now.
>>
>>Hope this helps. I'd like to purchase some Ribblett drawings, can someone
>>get me his contact info?
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>Douwe
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ed G." <flyboy_120(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tail attachment
Date: Apr 21, 2007
Hi Santiago...There are probably several ways to do the tailpost
fittings but I just made a couple of small 1/8" plywood wedges and glued
them to the tailpost so that the fittings would sit square to the
centerline of the fuselage. It worked out fine. For the front of the
stabilizer most builders are replaceing the #7 wood screws with 8-32 an
bolts through the main beam. I put self locking nut plates on the bottom
of the longeron but again, there are different ways to do that too. I
haven't decided how I will fasten down the leading edge yet. Ed G.
----- Original Message -----
From: santiago morete<mailto:moretesantiago(at)yahoo.com.ar>
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2007 11:00 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Tail attachment
I have seen in the archives a question about the attachment of the
horizontal stab to the fuselage (from Rick Holland) that intererst me,
and since it doesn't have an answer I will post it again.
The two bottom fittings are attached to each other with two
horizontal bolts through the fuselage tailpost, however the fuselage
sides are angled. Did you guys makes 4 wedged shaped washers out of
something so the bolt head and nut seat flat or add 2 wood wedges for
the fittings to sit on?
I will use bolts, no rivets.
Another question, I have seen Piets with the horizontal stab bolted at
the leading edge, main spar or both. I plan to bolt it trough the main
beam. What would be recommendable? Thanks
Saludos
Santiago
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Pregunt=E1. Respond=E9. Descubr=ED.
Todo lo que quer=EDas saber, y lo que ni imaginabas,
est=E1 en Yahoo! Respuestas (Beta).
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
m/Navigator?Pietenpol-List>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 21, 2007
From: Ryan Michalkiewicz <mskybolt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: GN-1 Roll call
I am just wondering how may Grega fliers are on the list. What stage is your project
in? What fuselage? What engine? Any other mods?
Myself, I have ordered "Complete" plans from a "guy" in Oregon. We will see what
arrives at my door if anything. I have been practicing my welds, I was getting
a little worried, but I am feeling better about them. I have a Corvair core,
ready for tear down.
Thanks all,
-Ryan
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike King" <mikek120(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: GN-1 Roll call
Date: Apr 21, 2007
Mike King
GN-1
77MK
Ponder, Texas
(Dallas/Ft. Worth area)
Built in 1985
A-80 Cont.
Several hundred hours of flying time
Dual controls / instruments
ELT, radio antenna, digital tach, slide bar to step into rear cockpit
(will install smoke system and gap seals in 2007)
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Michalkiewicz
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 1:18 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: GN-1 Roll call
I am just wondering how may Grega fliers are on the list. What stage
is your project in? What fuselage? What engine? Any other mods?
Myself, I have ordered "Complete" plans from a "guy" in Oregon. We
will see what arrives at my door if anything. I have been practicing my
welds, I was getting a little worried, but I am feeling better about
them. I have a Corvair core, ready for tear down.
Thanks all,
-Ryan
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out new cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 21, 2007
From: Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: lowell frank's stats-- Roman's Drawings
BTW, Roman's Riblett airfoil drawings are rib plots, which really help. I believe
that I recall that Roman took pains to make sure that his drawing dimensions
are true to the numerical plots. In other words, his drawings are not just
a cheap copy job, but a blueprint quality copy. I have only seen the 613.5 drawing
myself, but was glad to get it.
This is an unpaid testimonial.
FYI, I believe the full names of the two Riblett airfoils are the Riblett GA30A612
and the Riblett GA30u613.5, but I have been told that Riblett may have dropped
the letters in the middle of his former nomenclature. A likely "almost right"
explanation follows:
-- The "GA" stands for "general aviation,"
-- the "30" stands for how far back on the chord (as a percent of the chord, from
the LE) the thickest part of the camber fits, and
--the "12" or "13.5" is the maximum thickness of the camber, expressed as a percent
thickness of the chord.
Laid against a Piet rib, the Riblett 13.5 is about an inch taller in the upper
surface and an inch lower in the lower surface. The Riblett nose is much more
rounded until after the first 30 percent of the chord. There is a VERY slight
undercamber on the lower airfoil surface, like the Piet, but only toward the
tail of the airfoil.
Overall, the airfoil looks quite a bit like a Clark Y that is taller (thicker).
However, the Riblett's lower surface drops lower below the chordline than the
Clark Y in the first third of the chord, and thus looks more like a NACA 2412
or 4412 below. It's more laminar below than a Piet or Clark Y.
The spars can be at least two inches taller than the Piet's, and thus both heavier
and stronger. This might be a good application for a built-up spar, like
"Peter's Piet" Down Under.
These numbers and comparisons are all somewhat inexact, but good overall impressions.
Tim in central TX
-----Original Message-----
>From: Roman Bukolt <conceptmodels(at)tds.net>
>Sent: Apr 20, 2007 3:19 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: lowell frank's stats
>
>
>FYI
>I have the full size drawings of both the Riblett 612 and the Riblett 613.5
>available. They are $10.00 each including shipping and handling.
>BTW 24 Piet people so far have ordered the 612 and two ordered both the 612
>anf the 613.5.
>
>Roman Bukolt (Not Roman Gukolt)
>6505 Urich Terr.
>Madison, Wi. 53719
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: GN-1 Roll call
Date: Apr 21, 2007
From: <harvey.rule(at)bell.ca>
Harvey Rule
GN-1
C-IOVC
Ottawa,Ontario,Canada
Finished in 2006
Franklin 80 hp
2hrs.flight time so far
Single seat;front seat used for battery
Old style step and flop door on center section wing.
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike
King
Sent: April 21, 2007 3:02 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: GN-1 Roll call
Mike King
GN-1
77MK
Ponder, Texas
(Dallas/Ft. Worth area)
Built in 1985
A-80 Cont.
Several hundred hours of flying time
Dual controls / instruments
ELT, radio antenna, digital tach, slide bar to step into rear cockpit
(will install smoke system and gap seals in 2007)
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Michalkiewicz <mailto:mskybolt(at)yahoo.com>
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 1:18 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: GN-1 Roll call
I am just wondering how may Grega fliers are on the list. What
stage is your project in? What fuselage? What engine? Any other mods?
Myself, I have ordered "Complete" plans from a "guy" in Oregon.
We will see what arrives at my door if anything. I have been practicing
my welds, I was getting a little worried, but I am feeling better about
them. I have a Corvair core, ready for tear down.
Thanks all,
-Ryan
________________________________
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out new cars at Yahoo! Autos.
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48245/*http:/autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html;
_
ylc=X3oDMTE1YW1jcXJ2BF9TAzk3MTA3MDc2BHNlYwNtYWlsdGFncwRzbGsDbmV3LWNhcnM
-
>
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.mat
r
onics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: GN-1 Roll call
From: "skellytownflyer" <hanover(at)centramedia.net>
Date: Apr 21, 2007
Got DJ Vegh's GN-1 project-working on wings now-close to ready to cover.fuselage
about same.finishing up a lot of details that take 10 times the amount of time
you think they should as allways but it is fun.Raymond Hanover.Skellytown TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=108380#108380
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Wayne Poole" <dxechkn(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: GN-1 roll call
Date: Apr 22, 2007
My GN-1is almost ready to cover. All that's left is some wiring and hooking
up some Bowden cables. It has a Continental 0-200 and it's located in Denham
Springs, Louisiana.
Wayne Poole
dxechkn(at)earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 22, 2007
From: "walt evans" <waltdak(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Continental engings ARE amazing
Went to the airport today to fly for the first time since November.
Primed the A-65 twice, with switch off,
pulled 6 blades thru,
Left mag (impulse) on,
flipped it the first time and it was running.
Oil pressure came right up, too.
Amazing!!!!
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"No one ever learned anything by talking"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Ruse" <steve(at)wotelectronics.com>
Subject: Continental engings ARE amazing
Date: Apr 22, 2007
Mine used to start like that every time. Lately though, it takes 10-45
blades before starting. Any tips on how to troubleshoot it would be
appreciated.
It has dual impulse mags (Slick, with maybe 400 hours?). I don't have a
primer and I know that will make it take a little longer to start, but it
used to take ~6-7 blades, which is a long ways for 10-45.
Warm it will generally start on the first pull.
Steve Ruse
Norman, OK
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of walt evans
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2007 10:00 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Continental engings ARE amazing
Went to the airport today to fly for the first time since November.
Primed the A-65 twice, with switch off,
pulled 6 blades thru,
Left mag (impulse) on,
flipped it the first time and it was running.
Oil pressure came right up, too.
Amazing!!!!
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"No one ever learned anything by talking"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Ruse" <steve(at)wotelectronics.com>
Subject: GN-1 Roll call
Date: Apr 22, 2007
Mine is a GN-1, however I'm not the builder. I've been flying it for a
little over two years now.well over 200 hours since I bought it, and I have
no complaints.
Steve Ruse
Norman, OK
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ryan
Michalkiewicz
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 1:18 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: GN-1 Roll call
I am just wondering how may Grega fliers are on the list. What stage is your
project in? What fuselage? What engine? Any other mods?
Myself, I have ordered "Complete" plans from a "guy" in Oregon. We will see
what arrives at my door if anything. I have been practicing my welds, I was
getting a little worried, but I am feeling better about them. I have a
Corvair core, ready for tear down.
Thanks all,
-Ryan
_____
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out new
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48245/*http:/autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html;_ylc
X3oDMTE1YW1jcXJ2BF9TAzk3MTA3MDc2BHNlYwNtYWlsdGFncwRzbGsDbmV3LWNhcnM-> cars
at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Alan Lyscars" <alyscars(at)maine.rr.com>
Subject: Re: GN-1 Roll call
Date: Apr 22, 2007
Al Lyscars here in Portland, Maine.
Building ribs over this winter. My old pal, Paul, fabricating 4130
fittings for me in Brunswick (just up the road from me). Am using the
Riblet airfoil. I have a Corvair core which I intend to use on this
ship.
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Michalkiewicz
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, April 21, 2007 2:18 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: GN-1 Roll call
I am just wondering how may Grega fliers are on the list. What stage
is your project in? What fuselage? What engine? Any other mods?
Myself, I have ordered "Complete" plans from a "guy" in Oregon. We
will see what arrives at my door if anything. I have been practicing my
welds, I was getting a little worried, but I am feeling better about
them. I have a Corvair core, ready for tear down.
Thanks all,
-Ryan
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out new cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: GN-1 Roll call
From: Tom Bernie <tsbernie(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Apr 22, 2007
Ryan,
I started my GN-1 project 14 months ago. I have milled all the wood
(Doug Fir) and fabricated all the fittings, so this is a true "scratch
build" and I'm proud of it. The wings and tail feathers are covered
using Stewart Systems' Eco Bond and Eco Fill -- great stuff. So far my
wing panels seem kind of heavy at 67 lbs uncovered, but I have 1" Fir
Spars and the 25% weight penalty is coming home to roost. The fuselage
and all controls and cables are complete and tested. The landing gear
legs, fuel system, wheels and brakes, and FWF remain. Looking for O-200
or C90.
Regards,
Tom Bernie
Gloucester, Mass.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 23, 2007
Subject: Re: Continental engings ARE amazing
In a message dated 4/22/2007 5:20:38 PM Central Daylight Time,
steve(at)wotelectronics.com writes:
Mine used to start like that every time. Lately though, it takes 10-45
blades before starting. Any tips on how to troubleshoot it would be appreci
ated.
It has dual impulse mags (Slick, with maybe 400 hours?). I don=99t ha
ve a
primer and I know that will make it take a little longer to start, but it us
ed to
take ~6-7 blades, which is a long ways for 10-45.
Warm it will generally start on the first pull.
Steve Ruse
Norman, OK
Steve,
Walt is right on about these Continental A65's. I don't have a primer o
n
mine, either. I finally did my first flight of the year, this evening.
Haven't flown since mid December. One of the many many things I did to prep
are
for the flying season, with about 300 hrs on the engine and slick mags, I pu
lled
both mags off and set the e-gap. They were both off by several degrees. I
had to buy a T-150 tool to set the e-gap. I then timed both mags to the eng
ine
at 30=C2=BA BTDC. Mags off, cold engine, throttle idle, stick back in the s
eat
belt, in the chocks, I pull 8 blades through. Walk back to the cockpit and
say
it out loud "fuel on, engine idle, stick's back, in the chocks, Contact". S
he
fired right up on the first blade, and idled nicely...and that was with 1
gallon of old fuel. I think it was due to adjusting the e-gap. I drained a
ll
the old fuel (put it in my car), and taxiied over to the pumps with 1gal in
the
tank. I could meet you at the Breakfast Fly-In at Ponca City on May 5, and
let ya borrow my T-150 e-gap gauge, if you like. Or, you could mail order
one
to keep in your tool box...they don't cost much.
All day long the wind had the sock out straight, but it was down the
runway. By the time I was at the pumps, the winds had changed, and there wa
s
over a half sock full of direct crosswind, but I've been there before. Mag
drop
showed less than 50 rpm. Everything looked good, and felt good. Take off
from the hard surface so I had time to see if the ASI was working, but spent
the
rest of the time on the grass runway. I did several slips to landings, a
couple of fly by's, then went off for a full power level flight, followed by
a
couple of power off stalls. With the insulated exhaust pipes, the EGT was v
ery
noticeably higher, and the Smoke was Thicker !! Sure is great to be flying
again !!
Chuck G.
NX770CG
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com
.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Cooper" <blugoos1(at)hughes.net>
Subject: GN-1 Roll Call
Date: Apr 23, 2007
My partner, Tom Schildt, and I have been working on our GN-1, purchased
from South Lakeland Sport Aviation in Florida about 5 years ago.
Included in the purchase were the wings & tail feathers (uncovered),
4130 steel fuselage, and landing gear. Also purchased separately a C-85
engine. Our shop is north of Abbeville, Louisiana. Have met with Corky
in Shreveport and his wonderful wife, Isabelle several times. They are a
true inspiration. Look forward to meeting Wayne Poole in Denham Springs,
Louisiana, who I see from the list is also building a GN-1, and any
other nearby builders.
Jim Cooper
blugoos1(at)hughes.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: front cockpit shoulder harness attach
Date: Apr 23, 2007
OK, I took a few pictures of my shoulder harness attach setup and put them
on a webpage, at
http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/harness.html
Once again, note that this idea is not original with me... I took it from an
idea that was in the BPA Newsletter.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
MSN is giving away a trip to Vegas to see Elton John. Enter to win today.
http://msnconcertcontest.com?icid-nceltontagline
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 23, 2007
From: Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: front cockpit shoulder harness attach
Oscar,
Elegant solution. Really nifty.
BTW, if that notch in the top of the ash block is the rear sight, is the "brazing
rod fuel gauge" the front sight? ;)
Tim in central TX
-----Original Message-----
>From: Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
>Sent: Apr 23, 2007 9:48 AM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: front cockpit shoulder harness attach
>
>
>OK, I took a few pictures of my shoulder harness attach setup and put them
>on a webpage, at
>http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/harness.html
>
>Once again, note that this idea is not original with me... I took it from an
>idea that was in the BPA Newsletter.
>
>Oscar Zuniga
>San Antonio, TX
>mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
>website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>MSN is giving away a trip to Vegas to see Elton John. Enter to win today.
>http://msnconcertcontest.com?icid-nceltontagline
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: moving to San Antonio
Date: Apr 23, 2007
Steve wrote-
>It looks like I will be moving to the west side of San Antonio
Welcome to the neighborhood! Come by and see me some Saturday... last
hangar (I think it's the beige one), next to last hangar facing south. If
the door is open, stop by. If you can fit in the Piet, we'll go up!
>Castroville, San Geronimo and Boerne stage Airports.
>Do you have any opinions on these three?
I am based at San Geronimo and it's where the EAA Chapter 35 hangar and
clubhouse are located. Lots of building activity on the field and hangars
are occasionally available, or you can sub-rent or share one. Lots of
builder support and lots of friendly folks. The Chapter has a large
assortment of tools and services available for builders. There is no fuel
on the field and no runway lighting. Castroville is where most pilots out
of San Geronimo get fuel and it, too, is very flying friendly but I don't
have any details about what's available there. It is 10-15 minutes away
from San Geronimo by Pietenpol, depending on headwind ;o) Boerne Stage is a
nifty place, lots of sailplane activity, but I don't have much info on that
one either.
>I own a 1948 Bonanza
People routinely fly Bo's and Mooneys out of San Geronimo, along with just
about everything else.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
Download Messenger. Join the im Initiative. Help make a difference today.
http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=TAGHM_APR07
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 23, 2007
From: Mike Kerley <tuutuutango(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Garmin 196 on eBay
I just listed my pristine Garmin 196 on eBay. I used
it in my Cessna but upgraded to a 296 a couple of
months ago. My 196 is available for inspection at
Bruce Field in Central Texas (E30, San Antonio
Sectional) should anyone like a preview. Ebay auction
#260110714726. It comes with a 64 megabyte card and
the original boxes and manuals.
Thanks,
Sterling
Knot-2-Shabby Airport
5TA6, San Antonio Sectional
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Catdesigns" <catdesigns(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: front cockpit shoulder harness attach
Date: Apr 23, 2007
I mean no offence Oscar, but does anyone else see problems with this setup?
I would be worried that in the even to sudden deceleration (crash) the wing
along with the cross wires the harness is attached to would go forward.
Correct me if I am wrong here Oscar, but I believe this is what happened to
41CC when it crashed. These pictures Oscar took show it what I am talking
about. Alternatively, they might have failed due to compression when the
plane flipped over.
http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/incident/PB130005.JPG
http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/incident/PB130010.JPG
To avoid this the front diagonal down tubes (not on the drawings) would need
to be large diameter and the connection between these and the front wing
supports would have to be very strong. In Oscars case the front connection
on the right brace broke at the Heim joint.
The other problem I see is cable stretch. There isn't a lot of room between
your face and the instrument panel. If the cables stretch the harness isn't
going to help much. Nothing wrong with using cables but the pull needs to
be aligned with the cable not 90 degrees to it. Only the tension in the
cable will resist the forward pull from the harness and I doubt anyone will
put in enough tension into the cross braces to make them not flex.
Adding a shoulder harness to the front cockpit is very difficult. I sure
wish I had a suggestion or a solution better but nothing I can come up with
is ideal. I haven't decided how I am going to do mine yet but I think
anything we try is better then nothing. Good for Oscar to at least try
something.
Chris Tracy
Sacramento, Ca
Website at http://www.Westcoastpiet.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2007 6:48 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: front cockpit shoulder harness attach
>
>
> OK, I took a few pictures of my shoulder harness attach setup and put them
> on a webpage, at
> http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/harness.html
>
> Once again, note that this idea is not original with me... I took it from
> an idea that was in the BPA Newsletter.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> MSN is giving away a trip to Vegas to see Elton John. Enter to win today.
> http://msnconcertcontest.com?icid-nceltontagline
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 2007
From: "Rick Holland" <at7000ft(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tail attachment
Hey Santiago
Attached a couple pictures of the ply wedges I added to mine to get two
parallel surfaces for the two bolts.
Rick
On 4/20/07, santiago morete wrote:
>
> I have seen in the archives a question about the attachment of the
> horizontal stab to the fuselage (from Rick Holland) that intererst me, an
d
> since it doesn't have an answer I will post it again.
> The two bottom fittings are attached to each other with two
> horizontal bolts through the fuselage tailpost, however the fuselage
> sides are angled. Did you guys makes 4 wedged shaped washers out of
> something so the bolt head and nut seat flat or add 2 wood wedges for
> the fittings to sit on?
> I will use bolts, no rivets.
> Another question, I have seen Piets with the horizontal stab bolted at th
e
> leading edge, main spar or both. I plan to bolt it trough the main beam.
> What would be recommendable? Thanks
> Saludos
>
> Santiago
>
> ------------------------------
> *Pregunt=E1. Respond=E9. Descubr=ED.*
> Todo lo que quer=EDas saber, y lo que ni imaginabas,
> est=E1 en *Yahoo! Respuestas* (Beta).
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 2007
From: Gene Beenenga <kgbunltd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: GN-1 Roll Call
Jim,
I am not near buy, but feel we "GN-1 builders" need to hang together. I have come
to the conclusion that there are those "purist" out there, (not all) who don't
see "the advance variation" of the "father and fore runner" of home built
aircraft as "true".
Still, GN-1 builders have needs, interests and a willingness and desire to build
a good safe project.
Anyway, i am 80% done and as the ole saying goes, 80% to go. Still, my wood frame
fuselage is pretty well done, the Corvair needs to be built and my wing are
done. everything needs to be covered. mine sets on a cub type gear, with brakes
and tail wheel.
Where are you, with your project?
Gene
-----Original Message-----
>From: Jim Cooper <blugoos1(at)hughes.net>
>Sent: Apr 23, 2007 8:27 AM
>To: Pietenpol-List Digest Server
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: GN-1 Roll Call
>
>My partner, Tom Schildt, and I have been working on our GN-1, purchased from South
Lakeland Sport Aviation in Florida about 5 years ago. Included in the purchase
were the wings & tail feathers (uncovered), 4130 steel fuselage, and landing
gear. Also purchased separately a C-85 engine. Our shop is north of Abbeville,
Louisiana. Have met with Corky in Shreveport and his wonderful wife, Isabelle
several times. They are a true inspiration. Look forward to meeting Wayne
Poole in Denham Springs, Louisiana, who I see from the list is also building
a GN-1, and any other nearby builders.
>
>
>Jim Cooper
>blugoos1(at)hughes.net
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: front cockpit shoulder harness attach
Date: Apr 24, 2007
All of the points that Chris raises are valid. My feeling was that the new
setup is an improvement over what was there before, not that it was an ideal
solution. I will note, however, than in the nose-over the rear cabanes
remained intact and it is the X-braces for those cabanes that the attach
point is anchored to. The cables are 1/8" and are tensioned pretty well,
but if something bends or buckles they could go slack, yes.
The best solution that I've seen is the wishbone-style welded tube fitting
that the UK Pietenpolers pioneered. It installs inside the boot cowl that
encloses the flight instruments and is a really sturdy piece of work. One
example is G-BYZY, one photo example is
http://www.pietenpolclub.co.uk/gallery/displayimage.php?album=31&pos=6
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
Exercise your brain! Try Flexicon.
http://games.msn.com/en/flexicon/default.htm?icid=flexicon_hmemailtaglineapril07
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 2007
From: Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: front cockpit shoulder harness attach
Gene,
Thanks for your good input. Oscar has answered your questions about damage in
the hard landing, indicating that his "imoroved BPA shoulder harness assembly"
would likely have worked quite well in his hard landing. (We all agree some
things might well have been stretched.) He has also provided the pix of an alternative,
the more robust UK shoulder harness attachments. But you have raised
a question about the survivability of the cabanes and the front cabane-to-firewall
connection. I'd like to add to that.
Oscar's plane had a hard landing, but William Wynne's had a crash landing (steeply
from 70 feet up), and the Heim connectors or whatever he had, designed to
resist PULL in flight, would not and could not resist COMPRESSION in a crash.
Wynne has suggested building the assembly with tubing and stout connections to
prevent BOTH push and pull. This is more important, as he has pointed out,
when the gas tank is in the wing, as things can move, leak, and flame, as they
did to him. As you may know, he had several surgeries as a result of burns.
Ideally we might go with something more adustable and less permanent-- Heim and
lighter tubing-- to TEST the final location of the wing for CG purposes, and
then install a more permanent and stouter final assembly. Both this tubing forward
and the tubing of the two shoulder harnesses' attachments add weight that
BP did not have. Of course, as others have pointed out, we are supposed to
make the planes both light and strong enough to fly well, not strong and heavy
enough to crash well. To me, though, these few pounds seem like good ones.
These are the last safety measures you have in a crash.
I might have enough appropriate tubing on hand to estimate the total weight. Maybe
someone else already knows.
In any event, I'd like to hear both data and opinions of more established Piet
builders/fliers. Thanks already to you and Oscar for this discussion.
Regards,
Tim in central TX
-----Original Message-----
>From: Catdesigns <catdesigns(at)comcast.net>
>Sent: Apr 23, 2007 9:37 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: front cockpit shoulder harness attach
>
>
>I mean no offence Oscar, but does anyone else see problems with this setup?
>I would be worried that in the even to sudden deceleration (crash) the wing
>along with the cross wires the harness is attached to would go forward.
>Correct me if I am wrong here Oscar, but I believe this is what happened to
>41CC when it crashed. These pictures Oscar took show it what I am talking
>about. Alternatively, they might have failed due to compression when the
>plane flipped over.
>
>http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/incident/PB130005.JPG
>
>http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/incident/PB130010.JPG
>
>To avoid this the front diagonal down tubes (not on the drawings) would need
>to be large diameter and the connection between these and the front wing
>supports would have to be very strong. In Oscars case the front connection
>on the right brace broke at the Heim joint.
><<<< MORE TEXT FOLLOWED IN ORIGINAL>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: wire wheels
Date: Apr 24, 2007
From: "Dan Loegering" <danl(at)odayequipment.com>
I know there has been a lot of discussion in the past about where to purchase parts
for wire wheels and such. I am just wondering what is an average cost per
wheel ready to roll if you went the route of buying motorcycle rims, making
a hub, buying spokes, buying tubes and tires, etc...
I am leaning towards getting the kit from here... http://www.airdromeaeroplanes.com/Default.asp?page=76 and am just wondering if their price tag is in the ball park. ($495.00 for both)
Thanks!
Dan Loegering
Fargo, ND
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 2007
From: Jim Markle <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: wire wheels
Invoices for tires/tubes/rims/spokes/etc Those invoices are for 2 sets, (enough
for 2 projects) so divide all the costs by 1/2:
http://mykitplane.com/Planes/filesList2.cfm?AlbumID=67
on mykitplane.com...in the files section.
jm
-----Original Message-----
>From: Dan Loegering <danl(at)odayequipment.com>
>Sent: Apr 24, 2007 4:39 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: wire wheels
>
>
>I know there has been a lot of discussion in the past about where to purchase
parts for wire wheels and such. I am just wondering what is an average cost per
wheel ready to roll if you went the route of buying motorcycle rims, making
a hub, buying spokes, buying tubes and tires, etc...
>
>I am leaning towards getting the kit from here... http://www.airdromeaeroplanes.com/Default.asp?page=76 and am just wondering if their price tag is in the ball park. ($495.00 for both)
>
>Thanks!
>
>Dan Loegering
>Fargo, ND
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 2007
From: Michael Groah <dskogrover(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: wire wheels
Another question might be what is the weight difference? The Airdromeaeroplanes.com
kit is 36 pounds for two complete wheels with tires and tubes.
What do some of the other complete wire wheels weigh?
Dan Loegering wrote:
I know there has been a lot of discussion in the past about where to purchase parts
for wire wheels and such. I am just wondering what is an average cost per
wheel ready to roll if you went the route of buying motorcycle rims, making a
hub, buying spokes, buying tubes and tires, etc...
I am leaning towards getting the kit from here... http://www.airdromeaeroplanes.com/Default.asp?page=76 and am just wondering if their price tag is in the ball park. ($495.00 for both)
Thanks!
Dan Loegering
Fargo, ND
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 24, 2007
From: John Egan <johnegan99(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: wire wheels
Dan,
I recently finished my wheels. Here is my information on them.
2.50" wide x 19" Drop Center Chrome Rim, 40 hole $65 each
Chrome Spokes $40 per
set
4130 Tubing for Hubs 2" o.d. x 0.120" wall $7 per foot
4130 Flat Steel for flanges 0.090" x 9"x9" $5
Oil Impregnated Bearings $20
Total for two wheels ~ $225
Tires, tubes and rim bands $45 each
Paint for hubs $05
Total cost of completed wheels w/ tires (for both) ~ $320
disclaimer: These have not flown (or landed) yet.
I also considered the Aerodrome wheels. When I inquired, I learned that the
hubs were made for a slightly smaller diameter axle, and an 18" internal sleeve
is inserted inside each axle end to increase the strength or stiffness. I am
not questioning the design, only sharing information in the event you already
have the axle. I made the phone call and they were very kind. I simply chose
to fabricate my own.
john
in Wisconsin
Dan Loegering wrote:
I know there has been a lot of discussion in the past about where to purchase parts
for wire wheels and such. I am just wondering what is an average cost per
wheel ready to roll if you went the route of buying motorcycle rims, making a
hub, buying spokes, buying tubes and tires, etc...
I am leaning towards getting the kit from here... http://www.airdromeaeroplanes.com/Default.asp?page=76 and am just wondering if their price tag is in the ball park. ($495.00 for both)
Thanks!
Dan Loegering
Fargo, ND
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Sun N Fun pictures
From: "cgomez" <cgomez(at)sportplanes.tv>
Date: Apr 24, 2007
Just got back from Sun N Fun and wanted to share some pics. The only Piet i saw
was the one in the museum.
http://sportplanes.tv/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109108#109108
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: wire wheels
Date: Apr 25, 2007
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com>
Dan,
I think that price is pretty reasonable. I believe I paid about that
much for my hubs alone. I think the rims were close to $100, and having
them laced with custom spokes by Buchanons was another $100 or so. I
don't have the exact figures at hand, but they weren't cheap.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan
Loegering
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 5:40 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: wire wheels
-->
I know there has been a lot of discussion in the past about where to
purchase parts for wire wheels and such. I am just wondering what is an
average cost per wheel ready to roll if you went the route of buying
motorcycle rims, making a hub, buying spokes, buying tubes and tires,
etc...
I am leaning towards getting the kit from here...
http://www.airdromeaeroplanes.com/Default.asp?page=76 and am just
wondering if their price tag is in the ball park. ($495.00 for both)
Thanks!
Dan Loegering
Fargo, ND
_________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 25, 2007
From: Mike Kerley <tuutuutango(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Trying to reply to DOUWE about my Garmin 196 (sorry list)
Piet List:
SORRY FOR THIS E-MAIL, BUT DOUWE SENT ME A REQUEST
ABOUT MY GARMMIN 196 ON EBAY AND MY REPLAY CAN'T GET
THROUGH HIS CONTROLS ON EARTHLINK. PLEASE DISREGARD...
Hey Douwe:
No Problema, as we say here in Texas.
My Garmin is pristine, works great and you'll love it.
I though I had died and gone to heaven when I first
took it out of the box and outside. My dad about fell
oever backwards, He retired flying corporate jets all
over the world and despite having inertial nav in a
G-ll that he flew, he wished he would have had one of
these back in the "olden days."
Sorry to be such a hard-nose on Ebay, but my account
was hijacked a couple of years ago and I no longer
trust Nigerians, Russians, Ethipoians... the list of
crooks goes on and on.
PS... take a look at this link... It is a first flight
in an airplane I built and flew (On YouTube)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWJUdhAmfvQ.
Now, I have to decide if I am going to finish my
Aircamper or sell that too... Decisions, decisions.
Sterling Brooks
Knot-2-Shabby Airport
__________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Airdrome wire wheels
Date: Apr 25, 2007
From: "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC]" <michael.d.cuy(at)nasa.gov>
http://www.eaa1279.org/Pietenpol.htm
Dan--- go see EAA Chapter 1279's web site as they purchased the wire
wheel kit from Airdrome Airplanes and were quite
pleased. I don't see how you can go wrong at that price--- making my
own hubs and ordering everything thru a local motorcycle
shop here in Cleveland I spent $600 on my pair of 19" wheels (but I have
aluminum rims not steel) and that was back in 1993.
Mike C.
>>http://www.airdromeaeroplanes.com/Default.asp?page=76
<http://www.airdromeaeroplanes.com/Default.asp?page=76> and am just
>>wondering if their price tag is in the ball park. ($495.00 for both)
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 25, 2007
From: Michael Groah <dskogrover(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Airdrome wire wheels
Do you know the weight difference between the aluminum and steel rims? What
did your complete wheels end up weighing?
"Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC]" wrote: http://www.eaa1279.org/Pietenpol.htm
Dan--- go see EAA Chapter 1279's web site as they purchased the wire wheel kit
from Airdrome Airplanes and were quite
pleased. I don't see how you can go wrong at that price--- making my own hubs
and ordering everything thru a local motorcycle
shop here in Cleveland I spent $600 on my pair of 19" wheels (but I have aluminum
rims not steel) and that was back in 1993.
Mike C.
>>http://www.airdromeaeroplanes.com/Default.asp?page=76 and am just
>>wondering if their price tag is in the ball park. ($495.00 for both)
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: wheel weights
Date: Apr 25, 2007
From: "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC]" <michael.d.cuy(at)nasa.gov>
Michael,
Aluminum is roughly 1/3 the weight of steel so whatever steel rims weigh
mine weigh about 66% less. Say that two steel rims are
5 pounds each (just as an example....I have no clue what some of them
actually weigh) then you have 10 pounds of steel rims vs. 3.33 pounds of
alum. rims.
Mike C.
PS--- disclaimer: I don't know what alloy my aluminum rims are....there
may be other alloys in there like magnesium but I have nada clue so your
rim density may vary:)
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: wheel weights
From: "skellytownflyer" <hanover(at)centramedia.net>
Date: Apr 25, 2007
Well that may be true-but I would expect they use thicker aluminum than the steel
to gain the same strength and I'd really be surrised if there is that much
difference.it would sure depend on if both wheels were designed for the same load,Raymond
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=109257#109257
________________________________________________________________________________
From: HelsperSew(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 25, 2007
Subject: Wheel weights
Guys,
I just went out to the hangar and weighed one of my wire wheels (alum),
complete with band-type brake drum. 20 lbs. This includes the bearings, tires
and everything. I'm not sure what the drum weighs separately.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 25, 2007
From: Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: wheel weights
Yes but it isn't as strong so those rims would have to be
thicker for adequate strength. They will be lighter but
not by that much. The majority of the weight is in the tire
anyway.
Aluminum block engines, for instance, are not necessarily
lighter than iron and in a few cases are actually heavier.
Clif
Michael,
Aluminum is roughly 1/3 the weight of steel so whatever steel rims
weigh mine weigh about 66% less. Say that two steel rims are
5 pounds each (just as an example....I have no clue what some of them
actually weigh) then you have 10 pounds of steel rims vs. 3.33 pounds of
alum. rims.
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Catdesigns" <catdesigns(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: wire wheels
Date: Apr 25, 2007
Purchased my wheel building supplies in October . I'll give you the cost
per wheel.
Buchannon's
1 21" x 1.85 Sun Aluminum rims ----- $179
1-set Rim Pins (to help stop tire rotation)---- $6
40 9ga stainless steel spokes ---- $51.60
40 9ga .281x.900 Stainless steel nipple----- $41.60
Shipping----- $8 (remember this is only half the cost)
If your building them your self you will need a spoke wrench--- $19
I had Buchanan's loose lace one so I knew the spokes would fit---- $22
I built and trued the wheels my self.---- $0
Wheel hub with brake spacer from Ken Perkins----- $95 (includes shipping)
Had to have the bushings reamed because the ones Mr. Perkins supplies are
for ground axels and my axel is a non-ground 4130 tube --- $20 (strait axel
gear)
JC Whitney
Tire--- $27
Inner tube 80/100x21--- $8
Rim Strip--- $2 (actually $4 because JC Whitney charged me for them but
didn't send them. So I called and told them they were not in the shipment.
They sent me new ones and charged me for the new ones too. At his point I
was to depressed to care about $4)
Now for the weight (as weighed on my bathroom scale, so its +/- 1/2 pound)
No brakes
Rim--- 6 lb
wheel hub--- 2 lb
40 SS Spokes --- 2 lb
40 SS Nipples --- 1 lb
Tube --- 1 lb
Tire--- 6 lb
Total weight is about 18 pounds.
Did I forget anything?
Now for the true cost
Including the cost above trying to get wheels on my plane also cost:
$100 Very early on in my building I bought a set of wire wheels that turned
out to be to narrow and not up to the quality I would use on a plane.
$200 for motorcycle wheels from a junk yard oops salvage yard. What's the
difference between junk yard and salvage yard? Salvage yards charge more for
the same old junk. One rim turned out to have a cracked rim and I never
figured out how to get them to work with the strait axel. Also, no one who
used them with the strain axel replied to my emails asking for help. So I
didn't use them.
Total cost? You do the math I don't want to know. I makes me too
depressed. This has been one of the most frustrating and depressing
experiences of building this plane. What's worse, is after I spent all this
money and I had built the wheels, I discovered the spoke flanges have bent
in. As of now, I have taken the wheels apart, removed powder coat and bent
the flanges back strait(ish). I will then weld the outside joint where the
spoke flange attaches to the 2-inch tube, that was NOT welded by Mr.
Perkins, and rebuild them. On the bright side I'll be good at building
wheels. I'm so sick and tired of this type of thing happening that I find
it difficult to work on the plane and be happy right now. As you can tell
I'm in a deep funk about this. So the cost of the wheels also includes the
wasted time building, unbuilding and the weeks (months) it will take to get
over the utter frustration of the whole experience and return to building.
For now I'm going to go watch lots of TV instead of building. That should
drive me crazy and get me back out there soon I hope.
Chris Tracy
Sacramento, Ca
Website at http://www.Westcoastpiet.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Loegering" <danl(at)odayequipment.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2007 2:39 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: wire wheels
>
>
> I know there has been a lot of discussion in the past about where to
> purchase parts for wire wheels and such. I am just wondering what is an
> average cost per wheel ready to roll if you went the route of buying
> motorcycle rims, making a hub, buying spokes, buying tubes and tires,
> etc...
>
> I am leaning towards getting the kit from here...
> http://www.airdromeaeroplanes.com/Default.asp?page=76 and am just
> wondering if their price tag is in the ball park. ($495.00 for both)
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan Loegering
> Fargo, ND
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: HelsperSew(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 26, 2007
Subject: Re: wire wheels
Chris,
What are "rim pins" and how do they work? Of course I am sure I won't need
them, as all my landings will be like a bird's feather dropping to the
ground. :)
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Isablcorky(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 26, 2007
Subject: Max Davis
Max.
Would youi please contact me direct. I have a problem. Many problems but you
can help solve one of them
Corky
Isablcorky(at)aol.com
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: wire wheels
Date: Apr 26, 2007
From: "Bill Church" <eng(at)canadianrogers.com>
I was checking out the wheel kits on the Airdrome Aeroplanes website.
They look really good.
Since they do not list any specifications, it's kind of hard to tell
exactly what they are offering. Don't know what size axel they are made
to fit. From the photos it looks like the hubs are 6" wide, and the
overall diameter of the tires is 25" (maybe 19" rims?), which sounds
good for a Pietenpol. Do any of you guys have any more detailed
specifications?
Regarding pricing, the website says "Two welded hubs sell for $195 per
pair" and "Wheel kits ready to be laced with 2 tires, 2 tubes and 2
bearing sets sell for $495. This also includes a step-by-step detailed
video."
I assume that they also include the rims, spokes, etc. Does anyone know
if the wheel kits include the hubs, or do you have to buy both (which
would make the price actually $690 a pair).
If the wheel kits include the hubs, would they sell the kit minus the
hubs ($300?)
Bill C.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 26, 2007
From: "KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP" <kmheidecpo(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: wire wheels
Bill,
Enjoyed your post....regardless of Axel size.....their wheels are utilized on
a good many of their planes which are much heavier than the pietenpol. To me
the overall set and cost make them very competitive and I am tending to lean their
way.....As for axel size....I am sure their axel size has been tested and
I'll bet it is very close to what we are useing.
Ken
Bill Church wrote:
I was checking out the wheel kits on the Airdrome Aeroplanes website. They look
really good.
Since they do not list any specifications, it's kind of hard to tell exactly what
they are offering. Don't know what size axel they are made to fit. From the
photos it looks like the hubs are 6" wide, and the overall diameter of the tires
is 25" (maybe 19" rims?), which sounds good for a Pietenpol. Do any of you
guys have any more detailed specifications?
Regarding pricing, the website says "Two welded hubs sell for $195 per pair"
and "Wheel kits ready to be laced with 2 tires, 2 tubes and 2 bearing sets sell
for $495. This also includes a step-by-step detailed video."
I assume that they also include the rims, spokes, etc. Does anyone know if the
wheel kits include the hubs, or do you have to buy both (which would make the
price actually $690 a pair).
If the wheel kits include the hubs, would they sell the kit minus the hubs ($300?)
Bill C.
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Catdesigns" <catdesigns(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: wire wheels
Date: Apr 26, 2007
Rim pins are pins that project into the bead of the tire to hold it to
prevent rotation of the tire and tube. If this happen it will shear off
the valve stem and your tire will go flat. See attached picture.
Chris,
What are "rim pins" and how do they work? Of course I am sure I won't
need them, as all my landings will be like a bird's feather dropping to
the ground. :)
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 2007
From: John Egan <johnegan99(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Wing Strut Forks
Hello group,
I would like to learn more about "Wing Strut Forks". I have searched the archives
and have not found this specific information. I plan to use the Sky-Tek
Aluminum struts with an aluminum insert at the lower strut end, and a "fork end".
I find three fork end options in Aircraft Spruce. Would people like to share
thier knowledge to determine which fork may be best suited for this appliation
(lower wing strut ends)?
1. Wing Strut fork #13370-00 p/n05-06000 $82 7/16-20 thread
2. Wing Strut fork #14481-00 p/n05-08575 $86 7/16-20 thread
3. Aeronca Wing Strut fork p/n 05-08575 $60
4. Others?
Is there a standard gap width of the fork, so we know it'll fit nicely over the
flat tab fitting at the fuselage?
Thank you for any information.
john
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: RE: wire wheels
Date: Apr 27, 2007
From: "Dan Loegering" <danl(at)odayequipment.com>
I have posted some of the questions to Robert on the wheels, but here was a preliminary
response to some questions that I had on them... I'll let the group
know what the reply is on the remaining questions.
Dan L
Fargo, ND
Dan
Our wheel shouldn't have any problems at that wt. our hub has 1.25" ID oil lite
bushings with a 7.25" wide hub it's also drilled to attach a break if required.
Robert
-----Original Message-----
>From: Dan Loegering <danl(at)odayequipment.com>
>Sent: Apr 2, 2007 1:46 PM
>To: rbaslee(at)peoplepc.com
>Subject: Wheel kits
>
>Hello,
>
>I ran across your web site while searching for wheels for my project. They look
like they would fit the bill nicely, but wanted to run it by you to get your
thoughts before purchasing them.
>
>I am building a Pietenpol air camper with straight axle gear (Jenny style). Gross
weight with two aboard should be around 1,150 - 1,200 lbs. Will the wheels
you have be okay in that weight range? What axle dia. fits with the bearings
you supply? Are any of your builders using breaks with their setups?
>
>Thank you for the info!
>
>Dan Loegering
>O'Day Equipment, LLC
>(701)282-9260
>800-654-6329
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wing Strut Forks
Date: Apr 27, 2007
From: <harvey.rule(at)bell.ca>
Some pics;not sure if this is what you want.
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Egan
Sent: April 27, 2007 8:25 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wing Strut Forks
Hello group,
I would like to learn more about "Wing Strut Forks". I have searched
the archives and have not found this specific information. I plan to use
the Sky-Tek Aluminum struts with an aluminum insert at the lower strut
end, and a "fork end". I find three fork end options in Aircraft
Spruce. Would people like to share thier knowledge to determine which
fork may be best suited for this appliation (lower wing strut ends)?
1. Wing Strut fork #13370-00 p/n05-06000 $82 7/16-20 thread
2. Wing Strut fork #14481-00 p/n05-08575 $86 7/16-20 thread
3. Aeronca Wing Strut fork p/n 05-08575 $60
4. Others?
Is there a standard gap width of the fork, so we know it'll fit nicely
over the flat tab fitting at the fuselage?
Thank you for any information.
john
________________________________
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out new cars at Yahoo! Autos.
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48245/*http:/autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html;
_
ylc=X3oDMTE1YW1jcXJ2BF9TAzk3MTA3MDc2BHNlYwNtYWlsdGFncwRzbGsDbmV3LWNhcnM
-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wing Strut Forks
Date: Apr 27, 2007
From: <harvey.rule(at)bell.ca>
A few more pics
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Egan
Sent: April 27, 2007 8:25 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wing Strut Forks
Hello group,
I would like to learn more about "Wing Strut Forks". I have searched
the archives and have not found this specific information. I plan to use
the Sky-Tek Aluminum struts with an aluminum insert at the lower strut
end, and a "fork end". I find three fork end options in Aircraft
Spruce. Would people like to share thier knowledge to determine which
fork may be best suited for this appliation (lower wing strut ends)?
1. Wing Strut fork #13370-00 p/n05-06000 $82 7/16-20 thread
2. Wing Strut fork #14481-00 p/n05-08575 $86 7/16-20 thread
3. Aeronca Wing Strut fork p/n 05-08575 $60
4. Others?
Is there a standard gap width of the fork, so we know it'll fit nicely
over the flat tab fitting at the fuselage?
Thank you for any information.
john
________________________________
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out new cars at Yahoo! Autos.
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48245/*http:/autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html;
_
ylc=X3oDMTE1YW1jcXJ2BF9TAzk3MTA3MDc2BHNlYwNtYWlsdGFncwRzbGsDbmV3LWNhcnM
-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wing Strut Forks
Date: Apr 27, 2007
From: <harvey.rule(at)bell.ca>
A few more
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Egan
Sent: April 27, 2007 8:25 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wing Strut Forks
Hello group,
I would like to learn more about "Wing Strut Forks". I have searched
the archives and have not found this specific information. I plan to use
the Sky-Tek Aluminum struts with an aluminum insert at the lower strut
end, and a "fork end". I find three fork end options in Aircraft
Spruce. Would people like to share thier knowledge to determine which
fork may be best suited for this appliation (lower wing strut ends)?
1. Wing Strut fork #13370-00 p/n05-06000 $82 7/16-20 thread
2. Wing Strut fork #14481-00 p/n05-08575 $86 7/16-20 thread
3. Aeronca Wing Strut fork p/n 05-08575 $60
4. Others?
Is there a standard gap width of the fork, so we know it'll fit nicely
over the flat tab fitting at the fuselage?
Thank you for any information.
john
________________________________
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out new cars at Yahoo! Autos.
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48245/*http:/autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html;
_
ylc=X3oDMTE1YW1jcXJ2BF9TAzk3MTA3MDc2BHNlYwNtYWlsdGFncwRzbGsDbmV3LWNhcnM
-
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Wing Strut Forks
Date: Apr 27, 2007
From: hvandervoo(at)aol.com
John,
I used :
05-06000WING STRUT FORK # 13370-00
The fork is the right dimension for the sheet metal fitting at the fuselage.
One comment: you mentioned aluminum inserts, I would not recommend aluminum as
the Fork has a fine UNF thread. you can easily strip the threads, you need course
thread forks (do not know where you can get those) for aluminum.
You should use Steel inserts with this UNF thread.
I did not use Aluminum Sky-Tek struts but opted for the traditional steel with
the welded insert
Hans
-----Original Message-----
From: johnegan99(at)yahoo.com
Sent: Fri, 27 Apr 2007 7:24 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wing Strut Forks
Hello group,
I would like to learn more about "Wing Strut Forks". I have searched the archives
and have not found this specific information. I plan to use the Sky-Tek Aluminum
struts with an aluminum insert at the lower strut end, and a "fork end".
I find three fork end options in Aircraft Spruce. Would people like to share
thier knowledge to determine which fork may be best suited for this appliation
(lower wing strut ends)?
1. Wing Strut fork #13370-00 p/n05-06000 $82 7/16-20 thread
2. Wing Strut fork #14481-00 p/n05-08575 $86 7/16-20 thread
3. Aeronca Wing Strut fork p/n 05-08575 $60
4. Others?
Is there a standard gap width of the fork, so we know it'll fit nicely over the
flat tab fitting at the fuselage?
Thank you for any information.
john
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out new cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 27, 2007
From: John Egan <johnegan99(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Wing Strut Forks
Thanks all. Yes Hans, I meant "steel" insert in the "aluminum" strut, good catch.
I believe I made my fuselage fitting out of 0.090" flat steel doubled up,
but I'll have to measure to be sure. That's why I am looking for the fork gap
dimension. Thank you guys.
hvandervoo(at)aol.com wrote: John,
I used :
05-06000 WING STRUT FORK # 13370-00
The fork is the right dimension for the sheet metal fitting at the fuselage.
One comment: you mentioned aluminum inserts, I would not recommend aluminum as
the Fork has a fine UNF thread. you can easily strip the threads, you need
course thread forks (do not know where you can get those) for aluminum.
You should use Steel inserts with this UNF thread.
I did not use Aluminum Sky-Tek struts but opted for the traditional steel with
the welded insert
Hans
-----Original Message-----
From: johnegan99(at)yahoo.com
Sent: Fri, 27 Apr 2007 7:24 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wing Strut Forks
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{ width: 0px; height: 0px; } img.placeholder {
width: 275px; height: 206px; background: #F4F4F4 center center no-repeat;
border: 1px solid #DADAD6 !important; } Hello group,
I would like to learn more about "Wing Strut Forks". I have searched the archives
and have not found this specific information. I plan to use the Sky-Tek
Aluminum struts with an aluminum insert at the lower strut end, and a "fork end".
I find three fork end options in Aircraft Spruce. Would people like to share
thier knowledge to determine which fork may be best suited for this appliation
(lower wing strut ends)?
1. Wing Strut fork #13370-00 p/n05-06000 $82 7/16-20 thread
2. Wing Strut fork #14481-00 p/n05-08575 $86 7/16-20 thread
3. Aeronca Wing Strut fork p/n 05-08575 $60
4. Others?
Is there a standard gap width of the fork, so we know it'll fit nicely over the
flat tab fitting at the fuselage?
Thank you for any information.
john
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out new cars at Yahoo! Autos.
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: lshutks(at)webtv.net (Leon Stefan)
Date: Apr 27, 2007
Subject: Strut forks.
Hi John: I bought 4 large turnbuckle forks from B & B aircraft for
about 2 bucks each. I don't have them in front of me but I'm sure the
shank is 3/8" They probably worked a control for a B-52 so ought to be
strong enough for a Piet wing strut. Leon S. in Ks.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Pietsrneat(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 27, 2007
Subject: Re: Strut forks.
Leon,
What is "B & B Aircraft"?
Ron
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Ralph" <ralphhsd(at)itctel.com>
Subject: Re: Wing Strut ForksWing Strut Forks
Date: Apr 27, 2007
Some thoughts of wheels. I have a couple of 18 inch rear wheels off of old
dirt bikes. The hubs are spaced at 4 inches. They originally had drum
brakes but disks could be attached to the sprocket drive side. I paid $5 for
one and $20 for the other. For tires I visited a motorcycle shop and went
through the discarded tire pile. I found a couple or 3.25 X 18 high mileage
but sound tire casings. (free because it costs the business to get rid of
them) The main expense was taking the rims to the local blacksmith shop to
have the centers reamed out and brass bearings inserted. ($70). The wheels
weigh in at 22 lbs each with tire mounted, but no brakes. I will be flying
off of private grass field so do not plan on having brakes. I am not done,
but feel confident my wheels will not be one of the problems I'll face.
Ralph
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 2007
From: Ryan Michalkiewicz <mskybolt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol Rip Off, Beware
These are not original plans. He is making photo copies and selling them as original
plans. I had already purchased real Pietenpol plans from the Pietenpol family.
I was buying his set of Piet and GN-1 drawings mainly for the GN-1. They
are photocopies he ran off at Staples with no serial numbers.
Gordon Bowen wrote:
A lot of the old plans from the 30's to the 50's were just 10-15 sheets
of crude drawings and no instruction/construction detailed manual. Paul P's
Pixie plans are just a few pages of drawings. Don't think any of these actually
cost $125 but who knows what they're worth today. Recently a unused serial
numbered set of plans went up on ebay for Rutan's Longeze and they fetched
$1500 bidding war, Burt's too big into other projects to support the homebuilt
stuff anymore, but it's a heck of a set of complete plans and drawings, if you
got the old newsletter updates. If you want good detailed drawing and instruction
manual you gotta pay $500 for a Cozy etc. I paid $350 for a set of plans
for Osprey couple years ago that were riddled with errors, designer still selling
plans that he knows have errors and has not updated plans since early 70's.
As far as plans go, it's hard to find them that you can actually build the
plane from start to finish without errors and
corrections, you gotta have lots and lots of help from local EAA guys or tech
advisors. I'd recommend finding someone in EAA somewhere near you who's actually
built a Piete like plane and go over them with him, find out what else you
need to know before tossing together any parts, even if the plans were detailed.
Gordon
N-1033B SuperPiete (whatta great flying fun plane, Bernard would be proud of
the mods)
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Catdesigns" <catdesigns(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol Rip Off, Beware
Date: Apr 28, 2007
Ryan, I have a set of the old 8 1/2 x 11size GN-1 drawings I bought from
Mr. Grega for the large sum of $25. I will never build a GN-1 so you
can have them. As long as your serious about building something. Feel
free to email me off list.
Chris Tracy
Sacramento, Ca
Website at http://www.Westcoastpiet.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Michalkiewicz
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 6:09 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Pietenpol Rip Off, Beware
These are not original plans. He is making photo copies and selling
them as original plans. I had already purchased real Pietenpol plans
from the Pietenpol family. I was buying his set of Piet and GN-1
drawings mainly for the GN-1. They are photocopies he ran off at Staples
with no serial numbers.
Gordon Bowen wrote:
A lot of the old plans from the 30's to the 50's were just 10-15
sheets of crude drawings and no instruction/construction detailed
manual. Paul P's Pixie plans are just a few pages of drawings. Don't
think any of these actually cost $125 but who knows what they're worth
today. Recently a unused serial numbered set of plans went up on ebay
for Rutan's Longeze and they fetched $1500 bidding war, Burt's too big
into other projects to support the homebuilt stuff anymore, but it's a
heck of a set of complete plans and drawings, if you got the old
newsletter updates. If you want good detailed drawing and instruction
manual you gotta pay $500 for a Cozy etc. I paid $350 for a set of
plans for Osprey couple years ago that were riddled with errors,
designer still selling plans that he knows have errors and has not
updated plans since early 70's. As far as plans go, it's hard to find
them that you can actually build the plane from start to finish without
errors and corrections, you gotta have lots and lots of help from local
EAA guys or tech advisors. I'd recommend finding someone in EAA
somewhere near you who's actually built a Piete like plane and go over
them with him, find out what else you need to know before tossing
together any parts, even if the plans were detailed.
Gordon
N-1033B SuperPiete (whatta great flying fun plane, Bernard would be
proud of the mods)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out new cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "MICHAEL SILVIUS" <M.Silvius(at)worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol Rip Off, Beware
Date: Apr 28, 2007
Ryan:
Be aware that the original GN1 drawings are quite basic as well.
They are about 19 pages of 11x17" size. it was not until just last year
that new full size ones were printed with corrections. The originals
were selling for 25 $ till about 2 yrs ago. The new full size ones sold
for 75$ if I am not mistaken. Be aware that there is also a fellow on
ebay that has a collection similar to what your seller there shows, but
I do not know if it is the same clown. If you are diligent and keep an
eye on ebay they do pop up occasionally.
As for Long EZ plans they are in high demand as they are not available
any longer from Rutan. They are a large package and quite comprehensive
and detailed. They have often been cited as what plans should be like. I
am fortunate in that I have a set of unused ones including the Roncz
canard and new rudders in pristine condition (minus the engine install
book, section 2) The valuable part in these is the full size templates
for the bulkheads and airfoil all the rest of the detailing can be
obtained via regular EZ community channels in the form of a CD.
For the right amount I could be convinced to part with them as I do not
think I'd ever build it at this point and it would be nice if someone
actually did use them. I definitely would not want them going to a
speculator who would intend to make copies from them.
Michael
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Michalkiewicz
These are not original plans. He is making photo copies and selling
them as original plans. I had already purchased real Pietenpol plans
from the Pietenpol family. I was buying his set of Piet and GN-1
drawings mainly for the GN-1. They are photocopies he ran off at Staples
with no serial numbers.
Gordon Bowen wrote:
A lot of the old plans from the 30's to the 50's were just 10-15
sheets of crude drawings and no instruction/construction detailed
manual. Paul P's Pixie plans are just a few pages of drawings. Don't
think any of these actually cost $125 but who knows what they're worth
today. Recently a unused serial numbered set of plans went up on ebay
for Rutan's Longeze and they fetched $1500 bidding war,
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 2007
From: "Wayne E. Bressler Jr." <wayne(at)taildraggersinc.com>
Subject: Fiesta Fly-In, Cinco de Mayo, at W66 -Warrenton, VA
/All, I'm sharing this with the group as an open invite for any
EAA-types and sport aviation enthusiasts to stop in at W66 for some free
grub and good times. There will be plenty of local aircraft on the
field, and I will be there with my trusty camera to document all the
planes and good times. The community at W66 is very open and warm.
There aren't enough airports like this one with people like these! You
won't be disappointed./*
Fiesta Fly-In, Cinco de Mayo, at W66*
That's May 5, 2007!
To celebrate Mike Anderson and Chrissy Kirby taking over the FBO at W66,
we'll have a free cookout for everyone on Saturday, May 5th, in front of
the FBO. Food and fun start at noon. We'll feature the usual Bubba
Burgers, sodas (pre-flight), beer (post-flight), chips and famous W66
camaraderie.
Because it's Cinco de Mayo, there will also be some Mexican flare in the
form of Margaritas (both virgin and otherwise), salsa, etc.
Lastly, Mike and Chrissy need to sell some fuel. If you're able, please
do them a favor and don't top off this weekend. Mike and Chrissy want
plenty of air in those tanks when they come to fill them up on May 5.
Mike and Chrissy are hoping for 1,000 gallons on Saturday the 5th. Let's
make it happen!
Please pass this along to pilots based at other airports who want to
soak up the fun at W66. Also, feel free to bring kids and friends who
want airplane rides.
See you at the airport................
FMI and post-event photos visit:
http://www.ganation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7
-Wayne Bressler
wayne(at)taildraggersinc.com
www.ganation.com
www.taildraggersinc.com*
*
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dick Navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net>
Subject: Piet kids update
Date: Apr 28, 2007
I made it back from Sun n Fun the other night and have been getting
upacked and re-organized. I opened the envelopes with donatioins that
arrived while I was gone and added checks I received at SNF which in all
totalled $210. That gives us a grand total of $615, 2 Piet videos and a
brass data plate for them.
This is a very nice thing we all have done for them and I know they
appreciate it very much.
Thank you
Dick N.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dick Navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net>
Subject: Fw: piet kids
Date: Apr 28, 2007
________________________________________________________________________________
From: lshutks(at)webtv.net (Leon Stefan)
Date: Apr 28, 2007
Subject: B & B Aircraft
Ron: B&B Aircraft is located in Gardner Ks. (Kansas City) They didn't
use to have a web sight, but may now. They always have a large tent at
Osh. and S and F.. I don't have their number in front of me, but you
should be able to get it from Information. AS&S sells the same forks for
around $25 ea. and I will lay odds that they buy them from B & B. Leon
S.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gordon Bowen" <gbowen(at)ptialaska.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol Rip Off, Beware
Date: Apr 28, 2007
Michael,
Re Rutan's Long plans, go to the canard pusher user group at yahoo and
most a message you have some plans, you'd get a nice price out of them.
I'm a member of that group and we have about 650 members of all flavors
who have or are building canard aircraft. You're right, the Rutan
Aircraft Factory is the gold standard for all build from scratch type
plans. Nat Puffer's Cozy plans are almost word for word what Burt and
Mike Melvil put together 10 years earlier. Still love the Piete's
flying fun much better, ears flappin' in the wind and all.
Gordon
----- Original Message -----
From: MICHAEL SILVIUS
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2007 8:05 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Pietenpol Rip Off, Beware
Ryan:
Be aware that the original GN1 drawings are quite basic as well.
They are about 19 pages of 11x17" size. it was not until just last
year that new full size ones were printed with corrections. The
originals were selling for 25 $ till about 2 yrs ago. The new full size
ones sold for 75$ if I am not mistaken. Be aware that there is also a
fellow on ebay that has a collection similar to what your seller there
shows, but I do not know if it is the same clown. If you are diligent
and keep an eye on ebay they do pop up occasionally.
As for Long EZ plans they are in high demand as they are not available
any longer from Rutan. They are a large package and quite comprehensive
and detailed. They have often been cited as what plans should be like. I
am fortunate in that I have a set of unused ones including the Roncz
canard and new rudders in pristine condition (minus the engine install
book, section 2) The valuable part in these is the full size templates
for the bulkheads and airfoil all the rest of the detailing can be
obtained via regular EZ community channels in the form of a CD.
For the right amount I could be convinced to part with them as I do
not think I'd ever build it at this point and it would be nice if
someone actually did use them. I definitely would not want them going to
a speculator who would intend to make copies from them.
Michael
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Michalkiewicz
These are not original plans. He is making photo copies and selling
them as original plans. I had already purchased real Pietenpol plans
from the Pietenpol family. I was buying his set of Piet and GN-1
drawings mainly for the GN-1. They are photocopies he ran off at Staples
with no serial numbers.
Gordon Bowen wrote:
A lot of the old plans from the 30's to the 50's were just 10-15
sheets of crude drawings and no instruction/construction detailed
manual. Paul P's Pixie plans are just a few pages of drawings. Don't
think any of these actually cost $125 but who knows what they're worth
today. Recently a unused serial numbered set of plans went up on ebay
for Rutan's Longeze and they fetched $1500 bidding war,
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 28, 2007
From: Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: B & B Aircraft-- Some info
I just found this online. Sounds good.
"B&B Aircraft Supplies - This is a mom and pop shop with a whole warehouse full
of new aircraft parts. Super nice people and great prices. Check here before
you go elsewhere. No website, so... call or fax your order. Phone - 913-884-5930.
Fax 913-84-6533. "
Tim in central TX
-----Original Message-----
>From: Leon Stefan <lshutks(at)webtv.net>
>Sent: Apr 28, 2007 5:16 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: B & B Aircraft
>
>
>Ron: B&B Aircraft is located in Gardner Ks. (Kansas City) They didn't
>use to have a web sight, but may now. They always have a large tent at
>Osh. and S and F.. I don't have their number in front of me, but you
>should be able to get it from Information. AS&S sells the same forks for
>around $25 ea. and I will lay odds that they buy them from B & B. Leon S.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Pietsrneat(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 28, 2007
Subject: Re: B & B Aircraft
In a message dated 4/28/2007 7:17:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
lshutks(at)webtv.net writes:
Ron: B&B Aircraft is located in Gardner Ks. (Kansas City) They didn't
use to have a web sight, but may now. They always have a large tent at
Osh. and S and F.. I don't have their number in front of me, but you
should be able to get it from Information. AS&S sells the same forks for
around $25 ea. and I will lay odds that they buy them from B & B. Leon
S.
Thank you Leon and Tim for the info.
Ron
Do Not Archive
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 29, 2007
From: Larry Rice <rice(at)iapdatacom.net>
Subject: Plans
If you wnat some well drawn scratch build tube & rag plans, try one of
Ed Fisher's designs. I anyone wants to build a Zippy Sport, I have a set
of those.
Larry the micro Mong guy
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
Date: Apr 29, 2007
Subject: Re: B & B Aircraft-- Some info
Here is the one I have information on :
B & C Specialty Products Inc
123 East 4th
PO Box B
Newton, KS 67114 US
316-283-8000
Fax: 316-283-7400
_sales(at)bandcspecialty.com_ (mailto:sales(at)bandcspecialty.com)
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: airplane plans & carb ice
Date: Apr 29, 2007
Seeing the various posts here about the Piet, EZ, and GN plans, I guess my
take is a little different from some. I buy or acquire plans for the sheer
enjoyment of reading and studying them and I have maybe a dozen or more
different sets of plans. I learn from each and every detail, every view,
every section, every parts list. I don't expect them to be perfect and I
don't expect them to be complete. I feel that I have enough interest and
support to build one of whatever the plans are describing if I understand
the designer's intent and spend enough time studying, examining, and
dry-fitting things together. And it's what I most enjoy about
scratch-building. I don't want a kit.
What I don't appreciate are plans that are put out by theoreticians and
marketed as "real". If I know that the designer actually built what he drew
up, that's good enough for me- I can fill in the blanks, smooth out the
curves, and spot the "you can't get there from here" stuff. It might cost
me a scrapped piece of wood or metal, or the wrong length AN bolt, but
that's OK. I don't mind following in the footsteps of somebody who has
already built the part (or assembly) that I'm trying to build or understand
from his drawings. I'm just grateful that he left me a trail of bread
crumbs to follow on the way to my own dreams, part-way up a trail with
someone else's footsteps on it.
I know I'm not a kit builder and I'm not a "connect the dots" builder. And
I don't think there are too many of that type of folks on this list. We
build for the enjoyment, the challenge, the reward of working out the fine
points and finding a slightly better way to do things. We build on the
strong foundations but put our own touches on the finish.
Might as well pass along my hard luck story for today. I went out to the
airport, pulled the cowlings off the airplane, and set the idle speed and
mixture on the carb (one of those "I'll get around to it" tasks that I'd
been putting off). Set it at 550 RPM, as per Gorden Bowen's and others'
recommendations for summer operations on the A65. Replaced the cowlings,
preflighted, taxied to the active, and ran up the engine. Perfect. Lined
up on the numbers, throttle in, tail up, and about 100' down the runway she
started to stumble. Back on the power, the engine RPM smoothed out, but I
was concerned.
Back-taxied to the numbers, set the brakes, and full power runup this time.
Clean. Full RPM, nice drop on mags and carb heat, no hesitation, no
stumble. Rolled it back out onto the numbers, power in, tail up, stumble!
Power back and that cleaned up the roughness, but I decided it wasn't my day
to fly.
Taxied to the hangar and looked under the cowling. Frost on the carb body
and manifold, and lots of condensation on the carb and manifold areas. Carb
ice. I didn't have a lot of time to give it another shot and had other
tasks to do so I did them and put the airplane away. Thirty-five minutes
after shutting down the engine, there was still condensation on the carb.
My Tech Counselor up in Oregon, a Piet flyer with a Franklin on his
airplane, advised me to use carb heat while taxiing and anytime the throttle
came back to less than 1500 RPM. I think I'll take his advice from now on.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
Exercise your brain! Try Flexicon.
http://games.msn.com/en/flexicon/default.htm?icid=flexicon_hmemailtaglineapril07
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gordon Bowen" <gbowen(at)ptialaska.net>
Subject: Re: airplane plans & carb ice
Date: Apr 29, 2007
Wow, we almost lost Oscar. Glad it happened on the ground and safe. The
last time I had a hack hack cough the damn plane was 200' in the air, still
had 5000' of runway to slip it back on with idle power. I had put an
electric (Facet) boost pump in the fuel line to help with fuel head pressure
on takeoffs. Forgot the pump switch, and the little ball inside pump kinda
got stuck so fuel couldn't completely free flow from tank to carb. Facet
claims the pump is completely non-restrictive when switch is off. Took
pump back out of system, never had another problem. Electric fuel pump
booster is recommended on some midwing homebuilts like the Longeze or Cozy.
Figured couldn't hurt Piete's system due to low tank but was surprised to
learn this little pump can get stuck closed and has happened to other
builders in canard group.
Agree 100% with comments about scratch built plans, it's always good to
expand idears. Got lots of good ideas just looking at others projects via
EAA meets.
Gordon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 6:44 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: airplane plans & carb ice
>
>
> Seeing the various posts here about the Piet, EZ, and GN plans, I guess my
> take is a little different from some. I buy or acquire plans for the
> sheer enjoyment of reading and studying them and I have maybe a dozen or
> more different sets of plans. I learn from each and every detail, every
> view, every section, every parts list. I don't expect them to be perfect
> and I don't expect them to be complete. I feel that I have enough
> interest and support to build one of whatever the plans are describing if
> I understand the designer's intent and spend enough time studying,
> examining, and dry-fitting things together. And it's what I most enjoy
> about scratch-building. I don't want a kit.
>
> What I don't appreciate are plans that are put out by theoreticians and
> marketed as "real". If I know that the designer actually built what he
> drew up, that's good enough for me- I can fill in the blanks, smooth out
> the curves, and spot the "you can't get there from here" stuff. It might
> cost me a scrapped piece of wood or metal, or the wrong length AN bolt,
> but that's OK. I don't mind following in the footsteps of somebody who
> has already built the part (or assembly) that I'm trying to build or
> understand from his drawings. I'm just grateful that he left me a trail
> of bread crumbs to follow on the way to my own dreams, part-way up a trail
> with someone else's footsteps on it.
>
> I know I'm not a kit builder and I'm not a "connect the dots" builder.
> And I don't think there are too many of that type of folks on this list.
> We build for the enjoyment, the challenge, the reward of working out the
> fine points and finding a slightly better way to do things. We build on
> the strong foundations but put our own touches on the finish.
>
> Might as well pass along my hard luck story for today. I went out to the
> airport, pulled the cowlings off the airplane, and set the idle speed and
> mixture on the carb (one of those "I'll get around to it" tasks that I'd
> been putting off). Set it at 550 RPM, as per Gorden Bowen's and others'
> recommendations for summer operations on the A65. Replaced the cowlings,
> preflighted, taxied to the active, and ran up the engine. Perfect. Lined
> up on the numbers, throttle in, tail up, and about 100' down the runway
> she started to stumble. Back on the power, the engine RPM smoothed out,
> but I was concerned.
>
> Back-taxied to the numbers, set the brakes, and full power runup this
> time. Clean. Full RPM, nice drop on mags and carb heat, no hesitation,
> no stumble. Rolled it back out onto the numbers, power in, tail up,
> stumble! Power back and that cleaned up the roughness, but I decided it
> wasn't my day to fly.
>
> Taxied to the hangar and looked under the cowling. Frost on the carb body
> and manifold, and lots of condensation on the carb and manifold areas.
> Carb ice. I didn't have a lot of time to give it another shot and had
> other tasks to do so I did them and put the airplane away. Thirty-five
> minutes after shutting down the engine, there was still condensation on
> the carb.
>
> My Tech Counselor up in Oregon, a Piet flyer with a Franklin on his
> airplane, advised me to use carb heat while taxiing and anytime the
> throttle came back to less than 1500 RPM. I think I'll take his advice
> from now on.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Exercise your brain! Try Flexicon.
> http://games.msn.com/en/flexicon/default.htm?icid=flexicon_hmemailtaglineapril07
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: airplane plans & carb ice
Date: Apr 30, 2007
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com>
Ahh Oscar - you've discovered the Dark Side of the A65. When I had a
J-3 Cub, on more than one occasion when the humidity was high and the
day was cool, I had the engine actaully quit while taxiing out for
takeoff on a long taxiway. When you do your runup, leave the carb heat
on for more time than just to see if you get an RPM drop. About 30
seconds should be long enough. Likewise, in flight when you are about
to reduce power, pull the carb heat "on" a good 10 to 30 seconds before
you actually pull the throttle back, so you've got plenty of heat to
warm up the carburetor body before cutting the throttle.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Oscar
Zuniga
Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2007 10:45 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: airplane plans & carb ice
-->
Seeing the various posts here about the Piet, EZ, and GN plans, I guess
my take is a little different from some. I buy or acquire plans for the
sheer enjoyment of reading and studying them and I have maybe a dozen or
more different sets of plans. I learn from each and every detail, every
view, every section, every parts list. I don't expect them to be
perfect and I don't expect them to be complete. I feel that I have
enough interest and support to build one of whatever the plans are
describing if I understand the designer's intent and spend enough time
studying, examining, and dry-fitting things together. And it's what I
most enjoy about scratch-building. I don't want a kit.
What I don't appreciate are plans that are put out by theoreticians and
marketed as "real". If I know that the designer actually built what he
drew up, that's good enough for me- I can fill in the blanks, smooth out
the curves, and spot the "you can't get there from here" stuff. It
might cost me a scrapped piece of wood or metal, or the wrong length AN
bolt, but that's OK. I don't mind following in the footsteps of
somebody who has already built the part (or assembly) that I'm trying to
build or understand from his drawings. I'm just grateful that he left
me a trail of bread crumbs to follow on the way to my own dreams,
part-way up a trail with someone else's footsteps on it.
I know I'm not a kit builder and I'm not a "connect the dots" builder.
And I don't think there are too many of that type of folks on this list.
We build for the enjoyment, the challenge, the reward of working out the
fine points and finding a slightly better way to do things. We build on
the strong foundations but put our own touches on the finish.
Might as well pass along my hard luck story for today. I went out to
the airport, pulled the cowlings off the airplane, and set the idle
speed and mixture on the carb (one of those "I'll get around to it"
tasks that I'd been putting off). Set it at 550 RPM, as per Gorden
Bowen's and others'
recommendations for summer operations on the A65. Replaced the
cowlings, preflighted, taxied to the active, and ran up the engine.
Perfect. Lined up on the numbers, throttle in, tail up, and about 100'
down the runway she started to stumble. Back on the power, the engine
RPM smoothed out, but I was concerned.
Back-taxied to the numbers, set the brakes, and full power runup this
time.
Clean. Full RPM, nice drop on mags and carb heat, no hesitation, no
stumble. Rolled it back out onto the numbers, power in, tail up,
stumble!
Power back and that cleaned up the roughness, but I decided it wasn't my
day to fly.
Taxied to the hangar and looked under the cowling. Frost on the carb
body and manifold, and lots of condensation on the carb and manifold
areas. Carb ice. I didn't have a lot of time to give it another shot
and had other tasks to do so I did them and put the airplane away.
Thirty-five minutes after shutting down the engine, there was still
condensation on the carb.
My Tech Counselor up in Oregon, a Piet flyer with a Franklin on his
airplane, advised me to use carb heat while taxiing and anytime the
throttle came back to less than 1500 RPM. I think I'll take his advice
from now on.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
Exercise your brain! Try Flexicon.
http://games.msn.com/en/flexicon/default.htm?icid=flexicon_hmemailtaglin
eapril07
_________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Douwe Blumberg" <douweblumberg(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: wheels
Date: Apr 30, 2007
Hey guys,
My plans for being able to use a grass strip might be changing, which
might mean that my brakeless wire wheels might need replacing.
I've ordered some gokart brake drums from which I'm going to build up a
new hub. I can then either dismantle the brakelss wheels and send it
all back to Buchannans, OR I can sell the brakeless set for enough to
make a new set.
If anyone is interested in purchasing the brakeless set, contact me and
I can send pics.
They've never been used and are totally unique and authentic in that I
used old style smooth clincher WW1 style wheels and tires. They are use
28 X 3 tires. 38 Stainless steel spokes and laced at Buchannans.
Bronze bushings, grease fitting and they weigh 18 lbs.
IF I decide to proceed, I'd probably just want to start over rather than
taking these wheels apart, so selling them would be best.
my spam will catch your emails, but I'll find the message and add you to
my address book.
Douwe
douweblumberg(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: carb ice, triangle installed ?
Date: Apr 30, 2007
From: "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC]" <michael.d.cuy(at)nasa.gov>
Oscar-- you have the same setup as I do with Aeronca stacks and carb
heat muff. Inside the muff where your front and rear pipes Y together
there should be a steel triangle that fits in that Y with about 1/8 inch
space between it and the pipes to slow the air down and get better heat
transfer to the hot side of your carb air scat hose. My pipes did
not come with this triangle so I had to add it. As I recall there is a
tab
(or you can weld one in) to nut and bolt the steel triangle to.
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: edwinljohnson(at)bellsouth.net
Date: Apr 30, 2007
Subject: airplane plans & carb ice
Hello Oscar,
> From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
> My Tech Counselor up in Oregon, a Piet flyer with a Franklin on his
> airplane, advised me to use carb heat while taxiing and anytime the
> throttle came back to less than 1500 RPM. I think I'll take his advice
> from now on.
Actually, the prime RPM for ice is probably from around 1200 to 1600 or
1700 and 'theoretically' doesn't produce ice at idle or full power.
However, after owning a 65 hp Luscumbe 8A for 17 years, I became very
aware of ice, especially on chilly mornings in the fall and spring seasons
with our high humidity.
_But_, you need to consider operating environment (taxiways and runways)
for your above rule. Remember that the air with the carburetor heat ON is
_unfiltered_, bypassing the air filter and any sand, dust, etc. from the
runway and taxiway can go directly into your engine.
...Edwin
____________________________________________________________
"Once you have flown, you will walk the earth with your eyes
turned skyward, for there you have been, there you long to
return."-da Vinci http://bellsouthpwp2.net/e/d/edwinljohnson
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Apr 30, 2007
From: Ryan Michalkiewicz <mskybolt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Pietenpol Vs. Flybaby cockpit
Has anyone ever sat in a Bowers Flybaby cockpit and how does it compare in size
to the Piet? I remember it being a little tight. I'd hate to add the extra weight
just for 2".
Thanks,
-Ryan
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: carb ice, triangle installed ?
Date: May 01, 2007
Mikeee wrote-
>Inside the muff where your front and rear pipes Y together
>there should be a steel triangle that fits in that Y
Got it. I had my welder add a tab to each down-pipe and then bolted a
triangular piece of flat steel plate onto the tabs to force the incoming air
to flow around the plate and pipes instead of just shooting past them into
the carb air box. It works great. I can open up the heat muff and take a
photo if anyone cares to see it (should have done that prior to reinstalling
the assembly anyway)
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
Exercise your brain! Try Flexicon.
http://games.msn.com/en/flexicon/default.htm?icid=flexicon_hmemailtaglineapril07
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2007
From: "KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP" <kmheidecpo(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: carb ice, triangle installed ?
Oscar,
Now........ you know better then to lead a horse to water!.....Of course we can
use a photo! A picture is worth a thousand words.....tee-hee-hee
Ken H
Fargo, ND
Oscar Zuniga wrote:
Mikeee wrote-
>Inside the muff where your front and rear pipes Y together
>there should be a steel triangle that fits in that Y
Got it. I had my welder add a tab to each down-pipe and then bolted a
triangular piece of flat steel plate onto the tabs to force the incoming air
to flow around the plate and pipes instead of just shooting past them into
the carb air box. It works great. I can open up the heat muff and take a
photo if anyone cares to see it (should have done that prior to reinstalling
the assembly anyway)
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
Exercise your brain! Try Flexicon.
http://games.msn.com/en/flexicon/default.htm?icid=flexicon_hmemailtaglineapril07
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: wood gear question
Date: May 01, 2007
From: "Dan Loegering" <danl(at)odayequipment.com>
Getting close to cutting the wood for the gear and just have a couple of questions.
First - it is spruce that is used for the legs correct? And just ash for the bottom
block...
Second - what is the purpose for angling the bottom ash blocks back so they intersect
at the tail wheel (if you were to extend them all the way back...)? I
understand the reasoning for angling them for clearance when the plane is in 3-point
attitude, but would there be any reason to not keep the ash block in line
with the wheels (not angled inward towards the tail wheel)? It would make
the bottom cuts much easier to make without the inward cant.
Third - do you glue the bottom joints from the legs to the ash, or do you rely
on the metal side plates to attach these pieces?
Thanks!
Dan Loegering
Fargo, ND
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2007
From: "Rick Holland" <at7000ft(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol Vs. Flybaby cockpit
Just happen to have the FlyBaby plans in front of me Ryan. Outside width is
24 1/4". The longerons are 3/4x3/4" so the inside width is actually 1/4 to
1/2" wider than the Piet. Was fairly simple making mine 2" wider than plans,
just cost a little weight and an extra sheet of 1/8" ply.
Rick
On 4/30/07, Ryan Michalkiewicz wrote:
>
> Has anyone ever sat in a Bowers Flybaby cockpit and how does it compare in
> size to the Piet? I remember it being a little tight. I'd hate to add the
> extra weight just for 2".
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Ryan
>
> ------------------------------
> Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
> Check out new cars at Yahoo! Autos.<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48245/*http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html;_ylc=X3oDMTE1YW1jcXJ2BF9TAzk3MTA3MDc2BHNlYwNtYWlsdGFncwRzbGsDbmV3LWNhcnM->
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: wood gear question
Date: May 01, 2007
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com>
Hi Dan,
I don't know what others have done, but I can answer for what I did on
my landing gear.
The plans call for spruce, and there is no need to use anything heavier.
I made mine of 1/4" planks of spruce laminated together, partly for
strength and partly becasue I wanted to run a channel down the middle of
the strut to hide my hydraulic brake lines (a plane of this type didn't
have haydraulic lines hanging out everywhere in 1929). I found a side
benefit of having the glue lines was it made it much easier to sand the
struts to a uniform airfoil shape - the glue lines were straight when
the surface was uniform. The "V-Blocks" are ash, because they take a
pounding from the axle and ash absorbs shock better than any other wood
(which is why they make baseball bats out of it).
The purpose for angling the blocks toward the tail will become apparent
if you try to make them parallel. I didn't realize they needed to be
angled and went through several board feet of wood (fortunately, it was
pine - I recommend making practice pieces first before committing to
expensive spruce). I could never get the fit right at both the fuselage
and the V-blocks. Finally I made a jig with strings representing the
struts and realized I need to angle the V-blocks to make everything line
up. It is just a coincidence that the angle required is very close to
pointing toward the tailwheel.
You can probably glue the V-blocks to the struts. I chose not to, to
make it easier to thread my brake lines through. The steel plates are
strong enough and glue is not necessary.
The landing gear geometry is the single most difficult part of building
this airplane, if you are using the straight axle gear. I don't know if
the split type gear is any easier, but I know that once you get through
this part, the rest will be easy.
Good luck!
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan
Loegering
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 9:59 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: wood gear question
-->
Getting close to cutting the wood for the gear and just have a couple of
questions.
First - it is spruce that is used for the legs correct? And just ash
for the bottom block...
Second - what is the purpose for angling the bottom ash blocks back so
they intersect at the tail wheel (if you were to extend them all the way
back...)? I understand the reasoning for angling them for clearance
when the plane is in 3-point attitude, but would there be any reason to
not keep the ash block in line with the wheels (not angled inward
towards the tail wheel)? It would make the bottom cuts much easier to
make without the inward cant.
Third - do you glue the bottom joints from the legs to the ash, or do
you rely on the metal side plates to attach these pieces?
Thanks!
Dan Loegering
Fargo, ND
_________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: HelsperSew(at)aol.com
Date: May 01, 2007
Subject: Wood gear
Dan,
I don't think it is physically possible to make those ash blocks in line
with the line-of-flight. If it is I sure could not figure it out. The reason
is that the fuselage starts to taper back before you get to the back leg
attach point. I suppose it really could be done, but the result would be
misalignment of the back leg with the ash block. In other words the back leg would
end up sitting "crooked" on top of the ash block. It would take a better man
than I to figure it out if it can be done.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Singleton" <slsingleton(at)cvalley.net>
Subject: Douglas Fir longerons
Date: May 01, 2007
Hi everyone- I bought a 16ft 2x6 douglas fir that i thought might work
for longerons but it only has 5 to 6 growth rings pr in. It's a very
nice looking board but am wondering if the 5-6 rings an in. is enough.
Thanks for the help. Steve Singleton
-----
________________________________________________________________________________
From: <bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Douglas Fir longerons
Date: May 01, 2007
I believe 8 rings/inch is the minimum standard, sorry.
Ben
>
> From: "Steve Singleton" <slsingleton(at)cvalley.net>
> Date: 2007/05/01 Tue AM 10:25:16 EST
> To:
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Douglas Fir longerons
>
> Hi everyone- I bought a 16ft 2x6 douglas fir that i thought might work for longerons
but it only has 5 to 6 growth rings pr in. It's a very nice looking board
but am wondering if the 5-6 rings an in. is enough. Thanks for the help. Steve
Singleton
> -----
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Douglas Fir longerons
Date: May 01, 2007
Although the ring count doesn't quite come up to spec, I would not reject
the idea out of hand. The longerons on a Piet are not dainty pieces
(they're 1x1) and Doug Fir is stronger than spruce, so if it were me I think
I'd look to see how straight and clear the planks are before discarding the
idea and the planks.
The thing about the wood between the rings is that it is softer as the ring
spacing increases (wetter season?).
If it were wing spars, no. Not even if I were The Fisherman II. And my
opinion on this subject is worth as much as the thin air that the internet
is made of ;o)
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
Interest Rates NEAR 39yr LOWS! $430,000 Mortgage for $1,299/mo - Calculate
new payment
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dale Johnson" <ddjohn(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: wood gear question
Date: May 01, 2007
Dan
Question #1 The drawing calles for spruce. But we used ash for the whole
landing gear.If you make perfect landings use spruce
Question #2 I don't know.
Question #3 Rely on the metal side plates.Glue won't hold on the end grain.
Dale
> [Original Message]
> From: Dan Loegering <danl(at)odayequipment.com>
> To:
> Date: 5/1/2007 9:03:27 AM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: wood gear question
>
>
> Getting close to cutting the wood for the gear and just have a couple of
questions.
>
> First - it is spruce that is used for the legs correct? And just ash for
the bottom block...
>
> Second - what is the purpose for angling the bottom ash blocks back so
they intersect at the tail wheel (if you were to extend them all the way
back...)? I understand the reasoning for angling them for clearance when
the plane is in 3-point attitude, but would there be any reason to not keep
the ash block in line with the wheels (not angled inward towards the tail
wheel)? It would make the bottom cuts much easier to make without the
inward cant.
>
> Third - do you glue the bottom joints from the legs to the ash, or do you
rely on the metal side plates to attach these pieces?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan Loegering
> Fargo, ND
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: VAHOWDY(at)aol.com
Date: May 01, 2007
Subject: Re: Douglas Fir longerons
You could satisfy your concerns with a strength test. Hang a weight from a
piece of spruce and then from your fir. One test is worth 100 engineers.
Howdy
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: perfect landings
Date: May 01, 2007
From: "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC]" <michael.d.cuy(at)nasa.gov>
Good post, Dale.
I can vouch for good clean spruce gear legs and ash bottom pieces as I
have made some real
ground-smasher landings with no damage.
On the gluing of the ash pieces---I roughed them up good with 100 grit
or so paper and glued them
with T-88 to the spruce legs and they have held beautifully. Don't
clamp so tight as to squeeze
the glue all out though.
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2007
From: <bike.mike(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Douglas Fir longerons
One engineer to set up your test right is worth 10,000 tests that give answers
to questions you didn't know you asked.
---- VAHOWDY(at)aol.com wrote:
> You could satisfy your concerns with a strength test. Hang a weight from a
> piece of spruce and then from your fir. One test is worth 100 engineers.
> Howdy
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2007
From: santiago morete <moretesantiago(at)yahoo.com.ar>
Subject: Tail attachment
Ed and Rick, thanks for the past answers. We glue two small plywood wedges as
suggested. Today we bolt the empenage to the fuselage, no problems.
Attached a couple of pictures, the second one is the elevator stop (1/8 aluminum
plate), not a new design but I like the simplicity and light weight of this
device.
Saludos
Santiago
---------------------------------
Pregunt. Respond. Descubr.
Todo lo que queras saber, y lo que ni imaginabas,
est en Yahoo! Respuestas (Beta).
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2007
From: santiago morete <moretesantiago(at)yahoo.com.ar>
Subject: Finger faster than brain
Yep, I forgot the pictures
---------------------------------
Pregunt. Respond. Descubr.
Todo lo que queras saber, y lo que ni imaginabas,
est en Yahoo! Respuestas (Beta).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: kmordecai001(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Carb Ice
Date: May 02, 2007
Pieters,
I ran into serious carb icing a while back while climbing out. This is an A-75
with Stromberg carb & Aeronca stacks. The weather was cool and humid, worst case
icing conditions.
Yes, they're not supposed to do that at WOT, I know, but immediate application
of carb heat cleared it up. Climbed on up to a safe altitude over the field
at full throttle, turned carb heat off while at WOT, and the problem recurred
in less than 30 seconds. Not the slow loss of power described in the textbooks,
but roughness followed by loss of several hundred rpm within seconds. Once again,
carb heat cleared it up almost instantly.
The real root cause of the problem? I believe it was Mogas containing ethanol,
saturated with water.
I had noticed a loss of static rpm during runup, maybe 75-100 rpm, but it was smooth
and sounded good, so I blamed it on cold oil. After being seriously spooked
by the carb icing at WOT, I landed & rechecked the gascolator, but no free
water was present. Went to the EAA website and followed the instructions on
how to make an ethanol tester with a tall skinny bottle, and found that the local
BP/Amoco 87 octane did indeed contain ethanol. Since the gasoline/ethanol
absorbed only a small quantity of the test water initially put in the bottle,
I'm assuming that it was already saturated with water.
Drained the tank, refilled with 100LL, and gained over 100 rpm static. No icing
at WOT or cruise since then, but the weather has warmed up as well. The Mogas
went into the lawn mower...............
I'm sticking with Avgas from now on. It has it's own issues, but at least it's
consistent from batch to batch, unlike the local gas stations.
Dave Mordecai
NX520SF
Panacea, FL
Oscar wrote:
> Taxied to the hangar and looked under the cowling. Frost on the carb
> body and manifold, and lots of condensation on the carb and manifold
> areas. Carb ice. I didn't have a lot of time to give it another shot
> and had other tasks to do so I did them and put the airplane away.
> Thirty-five minutes after shutting down the engine, there was still
> condensation on the carb.
>
Pieters,
I ran into serious carb icing a while back while climbing out. This is an
A-75 with Stromberg carb & Aeronca stacks. The weather was cool and
humid, worst case icing conditions.
Yes, they're not supposed to do that at WOT, I know, but immediate application
of carb heat cleared it up. Climbed on up to a safe altitude
over the field at full throttle, turned carb heat off while at WOT, and the problem
recurred in less than 30 seconds. Not the slow loss of power described in
the textbooks, but roughness followed by loss of several hundred rpm within
seconds. Once again, carb heat cleared it up almost instantly.
The real root cause of the problem? I believe it was Mogas containing
ethanol, saturated with water.
I had noticed a loss of static rpm during runup, maybe 75-100 rpm, but it
was smooth and sounded good, so I blamed it on cold oil. After being seriously
spooked by the carb icing at WOT, I landed & rechecked the gascolator,
but no free water was present. Went to the EAA website and followed
the instructions on how to make an ethanol tester with a tall skinny bottle,
and found that the local BP/Amoco 87 octane did indeed contain ethanol. Since
the gasoline/ethanol absorbed only a small quantity of the test
water initially put in the bottle, I'm assuming that it was already saturated
with water.
Drained the tank, refilled with 100LL, and gained over 100 rpm static.
No icing at WOT or cruise since then, but the weather has warmed up as
well. The Mogas went into the lawn mower...............
I'm sticking with Avgas from now on. It has it's own issues, but at
least it's consistent from batch to batch, unlike the local gas stations.
Dave Mordecai
NX520SF
Panacea, FL
Oscar wrote:
> Taxied to the hangar and looked under the cowling. Frost on the carb
> body and manifold, and lots of condensation on the carb and manifold
> areas. Carb ice. I didn't have a lot of time to give it another shot
> and had other tasks to do so I did them and put the airplane away.
>
Thirty-five minutes after shutting down the engine, there was still
>
condensation on the carb.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Pietsrneat(at)aol.com
Date: May 01, 2007
Subject: Re: wood gear question
In a message dated 5/1/2007 10:34:56 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com writes:
Hi Dan,
I don't know what others have done, but I can answer for what I did on
my landing gear.
The plans call for spruce, and there is no need to use anything heavier.
I made mine of 1/4" planks of spruce laminated together, partly for
strength and partly becasue I wanted to run a channel down the middle of
the strut to hide my hydraulic brake lines (a plane of this type didn't
have haydraulic lines hanging out everywhere in 1929).
Is this your gear, Jack. Looks great, whoever it belongs to.
Ron
do not archive
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dick Navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net>
Subject: Re: Douglas Fir longerons
Date: May 01, 2007
Steve
My opinion is that I wouldn't use it, but don't discard it either.
There are plenty of places where it's not structurally as important
where it can be used. Keep shopping the lumber bins and check the 1x4
t&g flooring at the lumber yards.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Singleton
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 10:25 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Douglas Fir longerons
Hi everyone- I bought a 16ft 2x6 douglas fir that i thought might work
for longerons but it only has 5 to 6 growth rings pr in. It's a very
nice looking board but am wondering if the 5-6 rings an in. is enough.
Thanks for the help. Steve Singleton
-----
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2007
From: "Rick Holland" <at7000ft(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tail attachment
Didn't get any pictures Santiago.
On 5/1/07, santiago morete wrote:
>
> Ed and Rick, thanks for the past answers. We glue two small plywood
> wedges as suggested. Today we bolt the empenage to the fuselage, no
> problems.
> Attached a couple of pictures, the second one is the elevator stop (1/8
> aluminum plate), not a new design but I like the simplicity and light wei
ght
> of this device.
> Saludos
>
> Santiago
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *Pregunt=E1. Respond=E9. Descubr=ED.*
> Todo lo que quer=EDas saber, y lo que ni imaginabas,
> est=E1 en *Yahoo! Respuestas* (Beta).
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "DJ Vegh" <dj(at)veghdesign.com>
Subject: Re: Finger faster than brain
Date: May 01, 2007
I absolutely love the elevator travel stop! VERY nice!
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Catdesigns" <catdesigns(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: wood gear question
Date: May 01, 2007
Dan
Q: First - it is spruce that is used for the legs correct? And just ash for
the bottom block...
A: Yes, and it's what I used.
Q: Second - what is the purpose for angling the bottom ash blocks back so
they intersect at the tail wheel
A: By angling the ask blocks inward it allows the front gear leg to lie
within the plane of the rear gear leg. If you do not angle the ash block in
ward the rear gear leg will not sit squarely on the block no matter how you
cut it. Don't assume that angling it towards the tail wheel will be the
correct angle. You need to adjust so it aligns with the rear gear leg and
the front gear leg. It just so happens this is about an angle to the tail
wheel. The attached pictures shows my landing gear, upside down, the front
gear leg is toward you. The vertical block the string is against in the
inside edge of the ash block location. As you can see, to get the gear
legs to line up in the same plane, the ash block needed to be angled
inwards. However, the top view shows that on my setup the angle isn't quite
pointing at the tail wheel (the string points at the tail wheel).
Q: Third - do you glue the bottom joints from the legs to the ash, or do you
rely on the metal side plates to attach these pieces?
A: I don't plan on it and do not think you need to.
If you can wait, soon I will post how I built my wood gear to my web site
(still writing it up). It worked well for me and, although time consuming,
it was rather simple to cut the gear legs accurately.
Chris Tracy
Sacramento, Ca
Website at http://www.Westcoastpiet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Singleton" <slsingleton(at)cvalley.net>
Subject: Re: Douglas Fir longerons
Date: May 01, 2007
Thanks for the opinions fellows. I'll do a load test on a 4ft 1x1in of
the spruce and of the 5 ring pr in fir and let you know what happens.
Looks like i go back and try to find a better board. Steve Singleton
-----
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2007
From: Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol Vs. Flybaby cockpit
Make a mockpit! That will answer all your questions.
http://clifdawson.ca/Pientenpol.html
Clif
Was fairly simple making mine 2" wider than plans, just cost a little
weight and an extra sheet of 1/8" ply.
Rick
On 4/30/07, Ryan Michalkiewicz wrote:
Has anyone ever sat in a Bowers Flybaby cockpit and how does it
compare in size to the Piet? I remember it being a little tight. I'd
hate to add the extra weight just for 2".
Thanks,
-Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 01, 2007
From: Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: wood gear question
I've used fir as it is readily available to me. The grain count
is more than 36 because the tighter the grain the easier it is
to carve smooth rounded shapes and deal with the end
grain trimming that is neccessary to have a good fit at the
fuselage end.
Don't fight the angle of the Ash block. Just make it fit the
ends of the legs firmly and smoothly. Don't forget, an awful
lot of it is going to be hidden behind and under bungee cords
and axle tube.
The bottom cuts are much easier than the fuselage ends. :-)
No glue on the leg/block joint. I stuck a gyproc through
there into each leg just to hold the assembly together
while fitting the plates.
http://clifdawson.ca/Pietenpol3.html
Clif
> First - it is spruce that is used for the legs correct? And just ash for
> the bottom block...
>
> Second - what is the purpose for angling the bottom ash blocks back so
> they intersect at the tail wheel (if you were to extend them all the way
> back...)?
It would make the bottom cuts much easier to make without the inward cant.
>
> Third - do you glue the bottom joints from the legs to the ash, or do you
> rely on the metal side plates to attach these pieces?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan Loegering
> Fargo, ND
>
>
> --
> 2:57 PM
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Carb Ice
Date: May 02, 2007
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com>
Not only is 100 LL Avgas more consistent and reliable, it is alos not
much more expensive right now. I just filled my car with premium at
$3.19 per gallon. Avgas on our field right now is $3.50 per gallon.
After dissolving a needle valve with mogas 25 years ago, before they put
much alcohol in it, I think I'll stick with avgas.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
kmordecai001(at)comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 10:08 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Carb Ice
Pieters,
I ran into serious carb icing a while back while climbing out. This is
an A-75 with Stromberg carb & Aeronca stacks. The weather was cool and
humid, worst case icing conditions.
Yes, they're not supposed to do that at WOT, I know, but immediate
application of carb heat cleared it up. Climbed on up to a safe
altitude over the field at full throttle, turned carb heat off while at
WOT, and the problem recurred in less than 30 seconds. Not the slow loss
of power described in the textbooks, but roughness followed by loss of
several hundred rpm within seconds. Once again, carb heat cleared it up
almost instantly.
The real root cause of the problem? I believe it was Mogas containing
ethanol, saturated with water.
I had noticed a loss of static rpm during runup, maybe 75-100 rpm, but
it was smooth and sounded good, so I blamed it on cold oil. After being
seriously spooked by the carb icing at WOT, I landed & rechecked the
gascolator, but no free water was present. Went to the EAA website and
followed the instructions on how to make an ethanol tester with a tall
skinny bottle, and found that the local BP/Amoco 87 octane did indeed
contain ethanol. Since the gasoline/ethanol absorbed only a small
quantity of the test water initially put in the bottle, I'm assuming
that it was already saturated with water.
Drained the tank, refilled with 100LL, and gained over 100 rpm static.
No icing at WOT or cruise since then, but the weather has warmed up as
well. The Mogas went into the lawn mower...............
I'm sticking with Avgas from now on. It has it's own issues, but at
least it's consistent from batch to batch, unlike the local gas
stations.
Dave Mordecai
NX520SF
Panacea, FL
Oscar wrote:
> Taxied to the hangar and looked under the cowling. Frost on the carb
> body and manifold, and lots of condensation on the carb and manifold
> areas. Carb ice. I didn't have a lot of time to give it another shot
> and had other tasks to do so I did them and put the airplane away.
> Thirty-five minutes after shutting down the engine, there was still
> condensation on the carb.
>
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
d, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it i
n error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any
other use of the email by you is prohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene & Tammy" <zharvey(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Carb Ice
Date: May 02, 2007
Jack,
Have you tried your new prop yet?
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Carb Ice
Date: May 02, 2007
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com>
Nope. When I do, I'll post some info to the group. Planning to fly it
to Burlington, NC this weekend to a Vintage Aircraft Fly-in.
Jack
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gene &
Tammy
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 7:53 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Carb Ice
Jack,
Have you tried your new prop yet?
Gene
http://www.matp; available via
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
d, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it i
n error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any
other use of the email by you is prohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Finger faster than brain
Date: May 02, 2007
From: hvandervoo(at)aol.com
Santiago
I like your craftsmanship, very nice.
But why the elevator stop ?
None is called for in the plans, None is needed to fly.
Antoine de Saint Exup=C3=A9ry said it so well. "Perfection is finally attain
ed not when there is no longer anything to add, but when there is no longer
anything to take away."
And we all know the Pietenpol Air Camper is perfection
Hans,
-----Original Message-----
From: moretesantiago(at)yahoo.com.ar
Sent: Tue, 1 May 2007 9:07 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Finger faster than brain
________________________________________________________________________
AOL at AOL.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2007
From: "Rick Holland" <at7000ft(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol Vs. Flybaby cockpit
Good point, thats with I did using lumber from an old deck I tore out. You
will learn a lot about the design before cutting the expensive wood and you
will know for sure if you really need to widen.
Rick
On 5/1/07, Clif Dawson wrote:
>
> Make a mockpit! That will answer all your questions.
>
> http://clifdawson.ca/Pientenpol.html
>
> Clif
>
>
> Was fairly simple making mine 2" wider than plans, just cost a little
> weight and an extra sheet of 1/8" ply.
>
> Rick
>
> On 4/30/07, Ryan Michalkiewicz wrote:
> >
> > Has anyone ever sat in a Bowers Flybaby cockpit and how does it compare
> > in size to the Piet? I remember it being a little tight. I'd hate to add the
> > extra weight just for 2".
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > -Ryan
> >
> > *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Airdrome Aeroplanes Wire Wheel kits
Date: May 02, 2007
From: "Bill Church" <eng(at)canadianrogers.com>
Just got off the phone with Robert Baslee at Airdrome Aeroplanes. Very
nice to talk with. He says he has built over 50 sets of wheels and feels
quite satisfied with the present arrangement which he offers for sale.
Here's the low-down on the wheel kits they sell:
The standard hub is 6" inside the flanges (about 6 1/4" outside) - They
CAN make a wider hub (about 7 1/4") if absolutely necessary, but have
had the best success with the standard hub.
The standard hub is fabricated from chromoly steel, and prime painted.
Standard hub is supplied with oilite bushings with I.D. of 1.25".
Standard hub has a larger inside flange, with a bolt pattern to attach
brakes.
Spokes are heavy duty, chrome plated. (I didn't ask what gauge)
The rims are 19" diameter, chrome plated steel.
The tires are approx 3 1/4", resulting in overall diameter of about 25
1/2" for the wheel.
The wheel kit includes the hubs with bushings, spokes, rims, tubes and
tires (and a video).
The price listed on the website ($495 per pair) typically is for
customers who have purchased their landing gear from him. The price for
wheel kits alone is $595. Lacing and truing is typically another $100.
But Robert kind of hinted that they could probably include the lacing
and truing in the $595 price. (nudge, nudge, wink, wink).
He said that they will sell the hubs alone for $195, because they are a
difficult part to make. If you want to make your own hubs, he said he
COULD sell the rims, spokes, tires & tubes, but anyone could do that.
>From recent posts we see that John Egan has built his wheels for about
$340 (doing all the work himself), and Chris Tracy has invested about
$800 (with purchased hubs and 21" aluminum rims).
Overall the wheel kits sound like good value for the money. Especially
if you don't feel like building your own hubs.
Bill C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Singleton" <slsingleton(at)cvalley.net>
Subject: Fir-spruce test
Date: May 02, 2007
Hi everyone- I just completed my highly scientific stress test on a 48in
1x1of spruce and douglas fir. Both had about a 30degree slope(i know
thats a lot of slope). Both were bowed down about 1/16 when i started.
With a 5gal bucket with 3gal H20 the spruce bowed apprx. 435 thousandths
- firwas at 400 thou. At 5gal water fir. was at 550 down and spruce had
bowed down aapprx. 665 thous. Then removed bucket and put my 200lbs
slowly onto the fir and after just a bit I did hear a crack. Put my
weight on the spruce and it had a catastrophic failure instantly. The
spruce had many rings per in. and the fir had only 5. Moral of the story
is i know its not rocket science and i need to just build. Yes everyone
knows that fir is stronger but weighs a bit more. I agree with someones
else comment that the 5 or 6 ring fir is probably just fine but i'm sure
more rings would be even better. After doing all these very detailed
xperiments a feel i have become an xpert in the weight stess analysis
field so i feel i can speak up and give one more opinion hear. Make sure
you do this test over your floor drain! Have a great day. Steve S
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Sury" <jimsury(at)consolidated.net>
Subject: Re: Fir-spruce test
Date: May 02, 2007
Steve
Still worried about the fir. This is what I did with mine. Make your
longerons 1x1 but rip them to a little over 1/2 inch and glue them back
together. Take one of the pieces and swap ends. Than plane them to 1x1.
Works great. jas
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Singleton
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 5:15 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fir-spruce test
Hi everyone- I just completed my highly scientific stress test on a
48in 1x1of spruce and douglas fir. Both had about a 30degree slope(i
know thats a lot of slope). Both were bowed down about 1/16 when i
started. With a 5gal bucket with 3gal H20 the spruce bowed apprx. 435
thousandths - firwas at 400 thou. At 5gal water fir. was at 550 down
and spruce had bowed down aapprx. 665 thous. Then removed bucket and put
my 200lbs slowly onto the fir and after just a bit I did hear a crack.
Put my weight on the spruce and it had a catastrophic failure instantly.
The spruce had many rings per in. and the fir had only 5. Moral of the
story is i know its not rocket science and i need to just build. Yes
everyone knows that fir is stronger but weighs a bit more. I agree with
someones else comment that the 5 or 6 ring fir is probably just fine but
i'm sure more rings would be even better. After doing all these very
detailed xperiments a feel i have become an xpert in the weight stess
analysis field so i feel i can speak up and give one more opinion hear.
Make sure you do this test over your floor drain! Have a great day.
Steve S
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Singleton" <slsingleton(at)cvalley.net>
Subject: Re: Fir-spruce test
Date: May 02, 2007
Jim-dumb question but did you have the pieces for botttom long.
preshaped in jig when you glued them up or just straight. Steve S
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Sury
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fir-spruce test
Steve
Still worried about the fir. This is what I did with mine. Make your
longerons 1x1 but rip them to a little over 1/2 inch and glue them back
together. Take one of the pieces and swap ends. Than plane them to 1x1.
Works great. jas
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2007
From: Ryan Michalkiewicz <mskybolt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fir-spruce test
Do you have video of this experiment, it sound highly entertaining, lol.
Steve Singleton wrote: Hi everyone- I just
completed my highly scientific stress test on a 48in 1x1of spruce and douglas
fir. Both had about a 30degree slope(i know thats a lot of slope). Both were bowed
down about 1/16 when i started. With a 5gal bucket with 3gal H20 the spruce
bowed apprx. 435 thousandths - firwas at 400 thou. At 5gal water fir. was
at 550 down and spruce had bowed down aapprx. 665 thous. Then removed bucket and
put my 200lbs slowly onto the fir and after just a bit I did hear a crack.
Put my weight on the spruce and it had a catastrophic failure instantly. The spruce
had many rings per in. and the fir had only 5. Moral of the story is i know
its not rocket science and i need to just build. Yes everyone knows that fir
is stronger but weighs a bit more. I agree with someones else comment that
the 5 or 6 ring fir is probably just fine but i'm sure more rings would be even
better. After doing all these very detailed
xperiments a feel i have become an xpert in the weight stess analysis field so
i feel i can speak up and give one more opinion hear. Make sure you do this test
over your floor drain! Have a great day. Steve S
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2007
From: Ryan Michalkiewicz <mskybolt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Wood specs
I have found a lumber yard that is willing to special order some spruce. What should
I ask for, i.e growth rings, quality, free and clear etc...? I am thinking
4 2x4x16's to get started.
-Ryan
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Singleton" <slsingleton(at)cvalley.net>
Subject: Re: Fir-spruce test
Date: May 02, 2007
No but my wife thought it funny when the lab tech put his weight on the
spruce and it collasped. She said i'm not rideing in that thing. She has
no since of adventure. Steve S
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Michalkiewicz
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 7:46 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fir-spruce test
Do you have video of this experiment, it sound highly entertaining,
lol.
Steve Singleton wrote:
Hi everyone- I just completed my highly scientific stress test on a
48in 1x1of spruce and douglas fir. Both had about a 30degree slope(i
know thats a lot of slope). Both were bowed down about 1/16 when i
started. With a 5gal bucket with 3gal H20 the spruce bowed apprx. 435
thousandths - firwas at 400 thou. At 5gal water fir. was at 550 down
and spruce had bowed down aapprx. 665 thous. Then removed bucket and put
my 200lbs slowly onto the fir and after just a bit I did hear a crack.
Put my weight on the spruce and it had a catastrophic failure instantly.
The spruce had many rings per in. and the fir had only 5.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out new cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Jim Sury" <jimsury(at)consolidated.net>
Subject: Re: Fir-spruce test
Date: May 02, 2007
Straight worked just great. You could preshape but it isn't necessary.
What's great about my process is that you can buy 1x6 lumber and make
1x1 longerons. jas
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Singleton
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fir-spruce test
Jim-dumb question but did you have the pieces for botttom long.
preshaped in jig when you glued them up or just straight. Steve S
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Sury
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fir-spruce test
Steve
Still worried about the fir. This is what I did with mine. Make
your longerons 1x1 but rip them to a little over 1/2 inch and glue them
back together. Take one of the pieces and swap ends. Than plane them to
1x1. Works great. jas
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2007
From: John Egan <johnegan99(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Airdrome Aeroplanes Wire Wheel kits
Group,
I have attached a photo of the wheels I made with 19" rims. I would build wheels
again now that I learned how to do it, however it took me a very long time
to learn and complete this portion of my project. I agree that the $495 price
of a complete set is a very reasonable price.
john e.
Bill Church wrote:
Just got off the phone with Robert Baslee at Airdrome Aeroplanes. Very nice
to talk with. He says he has built over 50 sets of wheels and feels quite satisfied
with the present arrangement which he offers for sale.
Here's the low-down on the wheel kits they sell:
The standard hub is 6" inside the flanges (about 6 1/4" outside) - They CAN
make a wider hub (about 7 1/4") if absolutely necessary, but have had the best
success with the standard hub.
The standard hub is fabricated from chromoly steel, and prime painted.
Standard hub is supplied with oilite bushings with I.D. of 1.25".
Standard hub has a larger inside flange, with a bolt pattern to attach brakes.
Spokes are heavy duty, chrome plated. (I didn't ask what gauge)
The rims are 19" diameter, chrome plated steel.
The tires are approx 3 1/4", resulting in overall diameter of about 25 1/2" for
the wheel.
The wheel kit includes the hubs with bushings, spokes, rims, tubes and tires
(and a video).
The price listed on the website ($495 per pair) typically is for customers who
have purchased their landing gear from him. The price for wheel kits alone is
$595. Lacing and truing is typically another $100. But Robert kind of hinted
that they could probably include the lacing and truing in the $595 price. (nudge,
nudge, wink, wink).
He said that they will sell the hubs alone for $195, because they are a difficult
part to make. If you want to make your own hubs, he said he COULD sell the
rims, spokes, tires & tubes, but anyone could do that.
From recent posts we see that John Egan has built his wheels for about $340 (doing
all the work himself), and Chris Tracy has invested about $800 (with purchased
hubs and 21" aluminum rims).
Overall the wheel kits sound like good value for the money. Especially if you
don't feel like building your own hubs.
Bill C.
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2007
From: Ben Charvet <bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Wood specs
I'd go with 2X6's instead if you could get 4 of those you'd have plenty
for the fuselage and tail.. Special order it may be tough to get the
specifications on growth rings. You want at least 8 per inch. EAA has
a good book on building with wood, and if you are a member of EAA they
have a bunch of articles in the homebuilders section of their website
that would help you grade the wood. Good Luck
Ben
Ryan Michalkiewicz wrote:
> I have found a lumber yard that is willing to special order some
> spruce. What should I ask for, i.e growth rings, quality, free and
> clear etc...? I am thinking 4 2x4x16's to get started.
>
> -Ryan
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
> Check out new cars at Yahoo! Autos.
> <http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48245/*http://autos.yahoo.com/new_cars.html;_ylc=X3oDMTE1YW1jcXJ2BF9TAzk3MTA3MDc2BHNlYwNtYWlsdGFncwRzbGsDbmV3LWNhcnM->
>
>
>*
>
>
>*
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2007
From: Larry Rice <rice(at)iapdatacom.net>
Subject: Carb Ice
The 'ol Continental 0-200 is bad for ice, too. I think it's because the
carb's not mounted on the sump like a Lyc. This should give more
HP/cubic inch, at least in theory, due to the cooler charge.
Larry the microMong guy
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Chet's Mail" <Chethartley1(at)mchsi.com>
Subject: Tail wires
Date: May 02, 2007
Can any one give me a direction to go where I can find the tension
required for the tail brace wires.
Also what is the tension of the alerion control cables?
Just a update for everone on N970Y Mr. Don Hicks piet, I have been
working on the starting problems of the model A. Due to poor spark, bad
wires, dirty fuel and a bad mag we think we have things going our way. I
hope to fly with in the month.
Chet Hartley
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dick Navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net>
Subject: Re: Tail wires
Date: May 02, 2007
Chet
On your first two questions, not much and not much. You definetly don't
want the wires to ping or fwang when you pluck them on the tail. More
importantly, make sure the wires leave the tail perfectly balanced. A
half turn off here or there changes the way it flys. On the ailereons,
The tighter they are the more friction on the pulleys and fittings.
Align using the top cable and just snug up the bottoms.
Good luck
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: Chet's Mail
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 9:00 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Tail wires
Can any one give me a direction to go where I can find the tension
required for the tail brace wires.
Also what is the tension of the alerion control cables?
Just a update for everone on N970Y Mr. Don Hicks piet, I have been
working on the starting problems of the model A. Due to poor spark, bad
wires, dirty fuel and a bad mag we think we have things going our way. I
hope to fly with in the month.
Chet Hartley
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 02, 2007
From: santiago morete <moretesantiago(at)yahoo.com.ar>
Subject: Finger faster than brain
Thanks Hans.
Well, we just like the stops in the controls, in fact we will add stops for the
rudder and aileron (small, very small wood blocks) it adds no complexity or
weight and that's my main concern.
I agree 100% with your Piet philosophy. We will have a one piece wing, wood
gear, Ford A, but also will have safety belts, brakes and a steerable tail wheel
(I already feel shame for that).
Yes, as a Piet purist I'm a sinner.
Saludos
Santiago
---------------------------------
Pregunt. Respond. Descubr.
Todo lo que queras saber, y lo que ni imaginabas,
est en Yahoo! Respuestas (Beta).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Catdesigns" <catdesigns(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Wood specs
Date: May 02, 2007
Take a look at these
http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/testing_wood.pdf
and
http://www.sportair.org/articles/Aircraft%20Wood%20-%20Part%20One.html
and a good overview of wood.
http://www.auf.asn.au/scratchbuilder/contents.html
Chris Tracy
Sacramento, Ca
Website at http://www.Westcoastpiet.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Michalkiewicz
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 5:58 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wood specs
I have found a lumber yard that is willing to special order some
spruce. What should I ask for, i.e growth rings, quality, free and clear
etc...? I am thinking 4 2x4x16's to get started.
-Ryan
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out new cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
Date: May 03, 2007
Subject: Off Topic - Ya can't do that in a Piet !!
Here is the high energy promo clip for Skip Stewert Airshow. His show is
coming to Wichita in the fall.
_http://youtube.com/watch?v=UWAbbV4ZB_k_
(http://youtube.com/watch?v=UWAbbV4ZB_k)
Chuck G.
NX770CG
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Tail wires
Date: May 03, 2007
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com>
Good answers, Dick. I don't want the wires to "ping". I prefer a very
low "Thummmm". Important thing is to make them all sound and feel about
the same
Jack P.
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dick
Navratil
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 10:15 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Tail wires
Chet
On your first two questions, not much and not much. You definetly don't
want the wires to ping or fwang when you pluck them on the tail. More
importantly, make sure the wires leave the tail perfectly balanced. A
half turn off here or there changes the way it flys. On the ailereons,
The tighter they are the more friction on the pulleys and fittings.
Align using the top cable and just snug up the bottoms.
Good luck
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: Chet's Mail <mailto:Chethartley1(at)mchsi.com>
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 9:00 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Tail wires
Can any one give me a direction to go where I can find the
tension required for the tail brace wires.
Also what is the tension of the alerion control cables?
Just a update for everone on N970Y Mr. Don Hicks piet, I have
been working on the starting problems of the model A. Due to poor spark,
bad wires, dirty fuel and a bad mag we think we have things going our
way. I hope to fly with in the month.
Chet Hartley
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matr
onics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
d, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it i
n error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any
other use of the email by you is prohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Tail wires
Date: May 03, 2007
From: <harvey.rule(at)bell.ca>
I don't understand how you can do that when the elevator is at center
position you have the top cables holding it up and if you loosen those
off it will drop the elevator .I tried to get them looser but it was out
of position???????????????
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Phillips, Jack
Sent: May 3, 2007 9:02 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Tail wires
Good answers, Dick. I don't want the wires to "ping". I prefer a very
low "Thummmm". Important thing is to make them all sound and feel about
the same
Jack P.
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dick
Navratil
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 10:15 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Tail wires
Chet
On your first two questions, not much and not much. You definetly don't
want the wires to ping or fwang when you pluck them on the tail. More
importantly, make sure the wires leave the tail perfectly balanced. A
half turn off here or there changes the way it flys. On the ailereons,
The tighter they are the more friction on the pulleys and fittings.
Align using the top cable and just snug up the bottoms.
Good luck
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: Chet's Mail <mailto:Chethartley1(at)mchsi.com>
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 9:00 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Tail wires
Can any one give me a direction to go where I can find the
tension required for the tail brace wires.
Also what is the tension of the alerion control cables?
Just a update for everone on N970Y Mr. Don Hicks piet, I have
been working on the starting problems of the model A. Due to poor spark,
bad wires, dirty fuel and a bad mag we think we have things going our
way. I hope to fly with in the month.
Chet Hartley
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.mat
r
onics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
ics.com
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain
privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have
received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands
- N
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Tail wires
Date: May 03, 2007
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com>
Discussion here is tail BRACE wires. Not the elevator control cables.
That's a whole different issue, and one that I don't think ol' BHP
thought out too well.
Jack
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
harvey.rule(at)bell.ca
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 9:40 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Tail wires
I don't understand how you can do that when the elevator is at center
position you have the top cables holding it up and if you loosen those
off it will drop the elevator .I tried to get them looser but it was out
of position???????????????
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Phillips, Jack
Sent: May 3, 2007 9:02 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Tail wires
Good answers, Dick. I don't want the wires to "ping". I prefer a very
low "Thummmm". Important thing is to make them all sound and feel about
the same
Jack P.
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dick
Navratil
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 10:15 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Tail wires
Chet
On your first two questions, not much and not much. You definetly don't
want the wires to ping or fwang when you pluck them on the tail. More
importantly, make sure the wires leave the tail perfectly balanced. A
half turn off here or there changes the way it flys. On the ailereons,
The tighter they are the more friction on the pulleys and fittings.
Align using the top cable and just snug up the bottoms.
Good luck
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: Chet's Mail <mailto:Chethartley1(at)mchsi.com>
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 9:00 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Tail wires
Can any one give me a direction to go where I can find the
tension required for the tail brace wires.
Also what is the tension of the alerion control cables?
Just a update for everone on N970Y Mr. Don Hicks piet, I have
been working on the starting problems of the model A. Due to poor spark,
bad wires, dirty fuel and a bad mag we think we have things going our
way. I hope to fly with in the month.
Chet Hartley
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matr
onics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
ics.com
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain
privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have
received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands
- N
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
d, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it i
n error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any
other use of the email by you is prohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Singleton" <slsingleton(at)cvalley.net>
Subject: Re: Fir-spruce test
Date: May 02, 2007
I'll try there 1x6's next. Thanks for the tip. Steve S
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Sury
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fir-spruce test
Straight worked just great. You could preshape but it isn't necessary.
What's great about my process is that you can buy 1x6 lumber and make
1x1 longerons. jas
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Singleton
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fir-spruce test
Jim-dumb question but did you have the pieces for botttom long.
preshaped in jig when you glued them up or just straight. Steve S
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Sury
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fir-spruce test
Steve
Still worried about the fir. This is what I did with mine. Make
your longerons 1x1 but rip them to a little over 1/2 inch and glue them
back together. Take one of the pieces and swap ends. Than plane them to
1x1. Works great. jas
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.mat
ronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
From: HelsperSew(at)aol.com
Date: May 03, 2007
Subject: Re: Tail wires
Jack,
OK let's not be hasty and loose with the assumption that BHP actually made
any unintentional mistakes with those elevator control cables. I prefer to
think that BHP, being the visionary we all know he was, intentionally made those
cables that way because he knew that it would be one of the "distinguishing
characteristics" of his quaint design, and he knew we would all be talking
about it all these years later. Maybe he thought that the cable rubbing on the
L.E. of the horizontal stab would eliminate the weight and complexity of an
additional fairlead.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Tail wires
Date: May 03, 2007
From: <harvey.rule(at)bell.ca>
Thanks for straightening me out on that.By the way my bracing is done by
rods that are adjustable.See insert.
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Phillips, Jack
Sent: May 3, 2007 9:49 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Tail wires
Discussion here is tail BRACE wires. Not the elevator control cables.
That's a whole different issue, and one that I don't think ol' BHP
thought out too well.
Jack
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
harvey.rule(at)bell.ca
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 9:40 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Tail wires
I don't understand how you can do that when the elevator is at center
position you have the top cables holding it up and if you loosen those
off it will drop the elevator .I tried to get them looser but it was out
of position???????????????
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Phillips, Jack
Sent: May 3, 2007 9:02 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Tail wires
Good answers, Dick. I don't want the wires to "ping". I prefer a very
low "Thummmm". Important thing is to make them all sound and feel about
the same
Jack P.
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dick
Navratil
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 10:15 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Tail wires
Chet
On your first two questions, not much and not much. You definetly don't
want the wires to ping or fwang when you pluck them on the tail. More
importantly, make sure the wires leave the tail perfectly balanced. A
half turn off here or there changes the way it flys. On the ailereons,
The tighter they are the more friction on the pulleys and fittings.
Align using the top cable and just snug up the bottoms.
Good luck
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: Chet's Mail <mailto:Chethartley1(at)mchsi.com>
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 9:00 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Tail wires
Can any one give me a direction to go where I can find the
tension required for the tail brace wires.
Also what is the tension of the alerion control cables?
Just a update for everone on N970Y Mr. Don Hicks piet, I have
been working on the starting problems of the model A. Due to poor spark,
bad wires, dirty fuel and a bad mag we think we have things going our
way. I hope to fly with in the month.
Chet Hartley
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.mat
r
onics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
ics.com
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain
privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have
received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands
- N
">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
ics.com
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain
privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have
received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands
- N
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2007
From: <bike.mike(at)charter.net>
Subject: Tail wires
Harvey,
Your tail bracing rods are pretty standard fare for old taildraggers. My 7AC Champ
was so equipped and was tuned to a low A#, very much like Jack Phillips'
"thummm"...very pleasant music until one of my "thumm"s became a "thud." It was
a tiny fracture in a rod at one rod end fitting. "Thummming" is an excellent
preflight check.
Mike Hardaway
---- harvey.rule(at)bell.ca wrote:
> Thanks for straightening me out on that.By the way my bracing is done by
> rods that are adjustable.See insert.
>
>
[snip]
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 03, 2007
From: "walt evans" <waltdak(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Airdrome Aeroplanes Wire Wheel kits
Your look lots like mine, I've had good luck with them, so I think
you'll be satisfied.
I think that everyone should try to make their own. It's fun and very
rewarding.
In my picture # 188, you can see the "mini lathe" that I used to make
them. Always wanted one, so this was a good reason to buy it.
Notice the scratch on the bottom where the hub mets the flange. Thats to
line up the spoke holes from one flange to the other so the spokes will
lace right.
PS the white bearings are just PVC temporary bearings used to true up
the spokes on an axle mandrel.
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"No one ever learned anything by talking"
----- Original Message -----
From: John Egan
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 02, 2007 9:19 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Airdrome Aeroplanes Wire Wheel kits
Group,
I have attached a photo of the wheels I made with 19" rims. I would
build wheels again now that I learned how to do it, however it took me a
very long time to learn and complete this portion of my project. I
agree that the $495 price of a complete set is a very reasonable price.
john e.
Bill Church wrote:
Just got off the phone with Robert Baslee at Airdrome Aeroplanes.
Very nice to talk with. He says he has built over 50 sets of wheels and
feels quite satisfied with the present arrangement which he offers for
sale.
Here's the low-down on the wheel kits they sell:
The standard hub is 6" inside the flanges (about 6 1/4" outside) -
They CAN make a wider hub (about 7 1/4") if absolutely necessary, but
have had the best success with the standard hub.
The standard hub is fabricated from chromoly steel, and prime
painted.
Standard hub is supplied with oilite bushings with I.D. of 1.25".
Standard hub has a larger inside flange, with a bolt pattern to
attach brakes.
Spokes are heavy duty, chrome plated. (I didn't ask what gauge)
The rims are 19" diameter, chrome plated steel.
The tires are approx 3 1/4", resulting in overall diameter of about
25 1/2" for the wheel.
The wheel kit includes the hubs with bushings, spokes, rims, tubes
and tires (and a video).
The price listed on the website ($495 per pair) typically is for
customers who have purchased their landing gear from him. The price for
wheel kits alone is $595. Lacing and truing is typically another $100.
But Robert kind of hinted that they could probably include the lacing
and truing in the $595 price. (nudge, nudge, wink, wink).
He said that they will sell the hubs alone for $195, because they
are a difficult part to make. If you want to make your own hubs, he said
he COULD sell the rims, spokes, tires & tubes, but anyone could do that.
From recent posts we see that John Egan has built his wheels for
about $340 (doing all the work himself), and Chris Tracy has invested
about $800 (with purchased hubs and 21" aluminum rims).
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out new cars at Yahoo! Autos.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
________________________________________________________________________________
From: AMsafetyC(at)aol.com
Date: May 03, 2007
Subject: Going South again
Hi all,
On the road again to the Carolinas from Charlotte NC to the GA line on I 85.
During my travels I would like to meet up with other Piet owners and or
builders to check out projects flying and non.
Anyone in that area willing to share some Piet time please let me know, I
would appreciate a meet and greet evening if and where possible. Please let me
know if you're interested!
Thanks
John
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Singleton" <slsingleton(at)cvalley.net>
Subject: Hem fir
Date: May 03, 2007
Has anyone used Hem Fir? My local lumber yard has some and they told me
it was very clear and sraight grained but i have not heard of it being
used on a Homebuilt before. I ran a search on the internet and it is
used in makeing a lot of trim lumber. Steve S
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Airdrome Aeroplanes Wire Wheel kits
Date: May 04, 2007
From: <harvey.rule(at)bell.ca>
I know when I drove my MGB car I wanted wire wheels but a few of the
guys told me that one drive over a bumpy road and these babies would be
out of round. The spokes would loosen up and there are all kinds of
trouble with tightening them again. Do you guys who have used wire
wheels on your Piet in the past find this to be a problem?
________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gcardinal" <gcardinal(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Airdrome Aeroplanes Wire Wheel kits
Date: May 04, 2007
I abuse the wire wheels on NX18235 pretty regularly with less than
graceful landings. No problems.
Greg C.
----- Original Message -----
From: harvey.rule(at)bell.ca
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 6:02 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Airdrome Aeroplanes Wire Wheel kits
I know when I drove my MGB car I wanted wire wheels but a few of the
guys told me that one drive over a bumpy road and these babies would be
out of round. The spokes would loosen up and there are all kinds of
trouble with tightening them again. Do you guys who have used wire
wheels on your Piet in the past find this to be a problem?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Going South again
Date: May 04, 2007
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com>
If you get to the Raleigh, NC area, give me a call
Jack Phillips, PE
Sr. Manager, Disposable Products Research & Development
Cardinal Health Clinical Technologies & Services
Creedmoor, NC
(919) 528-5212
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
AMsafetyC(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 7:32 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Going South again
Hi all,
On the road again to the Carolinas from Charlotte NC to the GA line on I
85. During my travels I would like to meet up with other Piet owners and
or builders to check out projects flying and non.
Anyone in that area willing to share some Piet time please let me know,
I would appreciate a meet and greet evening if and where possible.
Please let me know if you're interested!
Thanks
John
_____
See what's free at AOL.com
<http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503> .
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
d, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it i
n error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any
other use of the email by you is prohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Airdrome Aeroplanes Wire Wheel kits
Date: May 04, 2007
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com>
Not at all. Anyone who has flown with me can tell you that many of my
landings are not kind to the undercarriage. Even after a forced landing
where I hit hard enough to break the axle, the wheels are still true
(and no touch up was required to the wheels after that landing). Wire
wheels are actually among the strongest of wheels (which is why sports
cars used them to begin with).
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
harvey.rule(at)bell.ca
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 7:03 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Airdrome Aeroplanes Wire Wheel kits
I know when I drove my MGB car I wanted wire wheels but a few of the
guys told me that one drive over a bumpy road and these babies would be
out of round. The spokes would loosen up and there are all kinds of
trouble with tightening them again. Do you guys who have used wire
wheels on your Piet in the past find this to be a problem?
_____
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
d, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it i
n error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any
other use of the email by you is prohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
________________________________________________________________________________
From: AMsafetyC(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 2007
Subject: Re: Going South again
In a message dated 5/4/2007 7:21:51 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com writes:
you get to the Raleigh, NC area, give me a call
Jack Phillips, PE
Sr. Manager, Disposable Products Research & Development
Cardinal Health Clinical Technologies & Services
Creedmoor, NC
(919) 528-5212
Jack,
Thanks for the invite, how far are you from Charlotte. I arrive Monday May
14 Charlotte NC, at this point I am available to drive to Raleigh if its not
too much of a trip. I arrive Charlotte around 5:00 pm so it is a possible if
not too far of a drive.
Please advise on distance and your availability.
Thanks
John Recine
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Going South again
Date: May 04, 2007
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com>
Charlotte is about a 3 hour drive from Raleigh
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
AMsafetyC(at)aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 8:34 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Going South again
In a message dated 5/4/2007 7:21:51 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com writes:
you get to the Raleigh, NC area, give me a call
Jack Phillips, PE
Sr. Manager, Disposable Products Research & Development
Cardinal Health Clinical Technologies & Services
Creedmoor, NC
(919) 528-5212
Jack,
Thanks for the invite, how far are you from Charlotte. I arrive Monday
May 14 Charlotte NC, at this point I am available to drive to Raleigh if
its not too much of a trip. I arrive Charlotte around 5:00 pm so it is a
possible if not too far of a drive.
Please advise on distance and your availability.
Thanks
John Recine
_____
See what's free at AOL.com
<http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503> .
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
d, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it i
n error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any
other use of the email by you is prohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Hem fir
Date: May 04, 2007
From: "Bill Church" <eng(at)canadianrogers.com>
Steve,
Not sure, when you say 'Hem Fir", if you are referring to Western
Hemlock. If that's what you mean, then it can be a suitable substitute
for Sitka Spruce (almost identical density, with higher strength). Ask
the lumberyard exactly what species they have on hand. Check the
weblinks that Chris Tracy posted yesterday, and you'll see Western
Hemlock listed in the charts.
Go to the Matronics Archives,
http://www.matronics.com/search/
and do a search in the Pietenpol Archive, using the word "hemlock". You
should find enough reading to keep you busy for a couple of hours. As
you read through, you'll see that at least one builder (Clif Dawson) has
built almost his entire airframe using CAREFULLY SELECTED Western
Hemlock.
I can't recall the source, but I definitely remember reading that BHP
built laminated spars from carefully selected lumberyard Hemlock.
Bill C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: AMsafetyC(at)aol.com
Date: May 04, 2007
Subject: Re: Hem fir
I couldn't resist googling the hem-fir, Here is a clip form the site and th
e
link.
FYI the official word on Hem-Fir from:
(http://www.weyerhaeuser.com/default.asp)
Hem-fir is the name given to a combination of hemlocks or firs that share
similar characteristics. These include western hemlock and the true firs
(noble, California red, grand, pacific silver and white fir)=94specie
s primarily
found commercially in the Northwest states and British Columbia.
Hem-fir design values are nearly as strong as Douglas fir, resulting in an
economical and excellent structural product. High ratios for strength and
stiffness make it a good choice for framing, and the color of its wood is a
mong
the lightest of the western softwoods. Hem-fir is a species with excellent
preservative treatment characteristics, which makes it an economical option
to
naturally durable species like western cedars and redwoods.
Hem-fir products are available in structural, appearance and remanufacturin
g
grades.
_Weyerhaeuser > Softwood Lumber > Softwood Lumber Species > Hem-Fir_
(http://www.weyerhaeuser.com/ourbusinesses/buildingproducts/softwoodlumber/s
pecies/hem
fir.asp)
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com
.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: washing the airplane
Date: May 04, 2007
Howdy, Pieters;
My airplane's wings sat in a hangar for two years while I repaired the
fuselage. Dust, bat droppings, rat droppings, bug stuff, rust drips from
the hangar framing, you name it. I have not bothered to clean it up yet but
will be doing so before the Hondo fly-in (SWRFI, June 1-2). The Poly-Fiber
care instructions say just use gentle detergent to clean the surfaces and a
good paste wax to protect them.
However... one of the recent Sport Aviation magazines carried an interesting
article about newer products that do a better job, so I'm going to give them
a shot and will report back on how they work. First product is "Extreme
Simple Green", which is supposed to be used to remove spots and stains
before giving the whole thing a washing. My airplane has plenty of spots
and stains so this will be a good test. The second product is "RejeX", a
polymeric coating that goes on after the surfaces are clean and dry, instead
of the wax job. Does NOT contain silicones that cause so many problems with
painting later on (such as Lemon Pledge, Armor All, etc. contain). Supposed
to make it much easier to remove bugs and droppings and lasts a couple of
months. The Texas weather will provide a good test for this.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
Download Messenger. Join the im Initiative. Help make a difference today.
http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=TAGHM_APR07
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: washing the airplane
Date: May 04, 2007
From: <harvey.rule(at)bell.ca>
All I ever use is dish washing detergent with some water mixed in and
spray that on .Let it sit for a while and wipe it off.Works to get bugs
off the prop too after a flight.My prop always looks like new.I don't
know how this will work on bat droppings though.I've only had to deal
with bird droppings and it works fine.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2007
From: Ryan Michalkiewicz <mskybolt(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Update!!!! Pietenpol Rip Off, Beware
Well I have to say the Baroness is awesome, she brought the photocopier to his
knees! I received my original plans, with serial number in the mail today. The
seller maintains it was an honest mistake. Barnstormers is great and the Baroness
provides a great service to the aviation community.
-Ryan
Ryan Michalkiewicz wrote:
These are not original plans. He is making photo copies and selling them as
original plans. I had already purchased real Pietenpol plans from the Pietenpol
family. I was buying his set of Piet and GN-1 drawings mainly for the GN-1.
They are photocopies he ran off at Staples with no serial numbers.
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2007
From: santiago morete <moretesantiago(at)yahoo.com.ar>
Subject: Tailwheel bracket
Guys, how do you attach the tailwheel bracket to the fuselage? Each bracket has
four bolts, two going sideways an the other two from bottom to top of longeron
interfering with the truss members.
We are building the long fuselage and we would like to keep the original tube
lenght (less arm, stiffer and ligthter), mount it behind the gusset plates and
put the 4 bolts. Can this weaken the longerons to much? Gracias!
Santiago
---------------------------------
Pregunt. Respond. Descubr.
Todo lo que queras saber, y lo que ni imaginabas,
est en Yahoo! Respuestas (Beta).
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Tailwheel bracket
Date: May 04, 2007
From: <harvey.rule(at)bell.ca>
More pics
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of santiago
morete
Sent: May 4, 2007 8:57 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Tailwheel bracket
Guys, how do you attach the tailwheel bracket to the fuselage? Each
bracket has four bolts, two going sideways an the other two from bottom
to top of longeron interfering with the truss members.
We are building the long fuselage and we would like to keep the original
tube lenght (less arm, stiffer and ligthter), mount it behind the gusset
plates and put the 4 bolts. Can this weaken the longerons to much?
Gracias!
Santiago
________________________________
Pregunt=E1. Respond=E9. Descubr=ED.
Todo lo que quer=EDas saber, y lo que ni imaginabas,
est=E1 en Yahoo! Respuestas (Beta).
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Tailwheel bracket
Date: May 04, 2007
From: <harvey.rule(at)bell.ca>
Still more
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of santiago
morete
Sent: May 4, 2007 8:57 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Tailwheel bracket
Guys, how do you attach the tailwheel bracket to the fuselage? Each
bracket has four bolts, two going sideways an the other two from bottom
to top of longeron interfering with the truss members.
We are building the long fuselage and we would like to keep the original
tube lenght (less arm, stiffer and ligthter), mount it behind the gusset
plates and put the 4 bolts. Can this weaken the longerons to much?
Gracias!
Santiago
________________________________
Pregunt=E1. Respond=E9. Descubr=ED.
Todo lo que quer=EDas saber, y lo que ni imaginabas,
est=E1 en Yahoo! Respuestas (Beta).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Stinemetze" <tstinemetze(at)cox.net>
Subject: While You're Making Flying Weather Plans
Date: May 04, 2007
For those of you close enough to McPherson, Kansas to think about flying
here, don't forget the annual When Pigs Fly nationally rated BBQ contest
and Fly in. This year the event will be on August 24-25 and it would
sure be great to have a few Air Campers and/or Sky Scout's here on the
ramp. The food is great, lots of other activities will be going on
(weather permitting) and I, for one, will ensure that any Pietenpol
birds get prime space on the ramp.
More info at: http://www.eaa1344.com/
Tom Stinemetze
The Airplane Nut
____ | ____
\8/
/ \
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Tailwheel bracket
Date: May 04, 2007
From: <harvey.rule(at)bell.ca>
One more
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of santiago
morete
Sent: May 4, 2007 8:57 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Tailwheel bracket
Guys, how do you attach the tailwheel bracket to the fuselage? Each
bracket has four bolts, two going sideways an the other two from bottom
to top of longeron interfering with the truss members.
We are building the long fuselage and we would like to keep the original
tube lenght (less arm, stiffer and ligthter), mount it behind the gusset
plates and put the 4 bolts. Can this weaken the longerons to much?
Gracias!
Santiago
________________________________
Pregunt=E1. Respond=E9. Descubr=ED.
Todo lo que quer=EDas saber, y lo que ni imaginabas,
est=E1 en Yahoo! Respuestas (Beta).
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 04, 2007
From: Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Airdrome Aeroplanes Wire Wheel kits
I've had two cars with wire wheels, a TR-2/3
and a 56 Healey. One was driven fast over
many miles of moutanous gravel roads on
Vancouver Island and the other saw some
of the same but not as much. The TR was
built like a truck but the Healey was too low.
Since they were sports cars I certainly wasn't
about to limit my speed now was I? Never
was there any indication of out of round and
there definitely would have been at speed on flat
smooth pavement after all that rough usage.
Clif
----- Original Message -----
From: harvey.rule(at)bell.ca
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 4:02 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Airdrome Aeroplanes Wire Wheel kits
I know when I drove my MGB car I wanted wire wheels but a few of the
guys told me that one drive over a bumpy road and these babies would be
out of round. The spokes would loosen up and there are all kinds of
trouble with tightening them again. Do you guys who have used wire
wheels on your Piet in the past find this to be a problem?
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 2007
From: Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Hem fir
What it means is that in any given pile of material there will be some
pieces that are Hemlock and some each of a few of the firs. In the firs
used some are weaker than Spruce and some a little stronger. It will
be difficult to tell which is which with a lot of it. I've encountered
it here
and gone through a few piles. None of it met my personal criteria.
Framing material is fine for framing a house but is never graded to
meet the needs we have. Knots, for instance, are quite acceptable
in framing. As are many other defects. So choose carefully. Do you
want one spar to be Pacific Silver at 6200 lb/in=C2=B2 and another of
California Red at 7200 or Hemlock at 6800? Spruce in this same
chart is 6700 lb/in=C2=B2 as a reference.
Clif
----- Original Message -----
From: AMsafetyC(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Hem fir
Hem-fir is the name given to a combination of hemlocks or firs
that share similar characteristics. These include western hemlock and
the true firs (noble, California red, grand, pacific silver and white
fir)=94species primarily found commercially in the Northwest
states and British Columbia.
Hem-fir design values are nearly as strong as Douglas fir,
resulting in an economical and excellent structural product. High
ratios for strength and stiffness make it a good choice for framing, and
the color of its wood is among the lightest of the western softwoods.
Hem-fir is a species with excellent preservative treatment
characteristics, which makes it an economical option to naturally
durable species like western cedars and redwoods.
Hem-fir products are available in structural, appearance and
remanufacturing grades.
Weyerhaeuser > Softwood Lumber > Softwood Lumber Species >
Hem-Fir
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gordon Bowen" <gbowen(at)ptialaska.net>
Subject: Re: Hem fir
Date: May 05, 2007
What I don't understand about all this debate re various woods is, WHY!
The FAA's or EAA's Acceptable methods and materials booklets lets you
know what's what about wood for aeroplanes. Your choice, but when you
get right down to it, the cost of the wood is the absolute least of your
cost in building a homebuilt. Why sweat it, get some sika spruce and
start building or you'll never get flying. You'll make lots of
mistakes, waste maybe 1/2 of your wood, but's still the least cost way
of getting airborne.
Gordon
----- Original Message -----
From: Clif Dawson
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 11:33 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Hem fir
What it means is that in any given pile of material there will be some
pieces that are Hemlock and some each of a few of the firs. In the
firs
used some are weaker than Spruce and some a little stronger. It will
be difficult to tell which is which with a lot of it. I've encountered
it here
and gone through a few piles. None of it met my personal criteria.
Framing material is fine for framing a house but is never graded to
meet the needs we have. Knots, for instance, are quite acceptable
in framing. As are many other defects. So choose carefully. Do you
want one spar to be Pacific Silver at 6200 lb/in=C2=B2 and another of
California Red at 7200 or Hemlock at 6800? Spruce in this same
chart is 6700 lb/in=C2=B2 as a reference.
Clif
----- Original Message -----
From: AMsafetyC(at)aol.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Hem fir
Hem-fir is the name given to a combination of hemlocks or firs
that share similar characteristics. These include western hemlock and
the true firs (noble, California red, grand, pacific silver and white
fir)=94species primarily found commercially in the Northwest
states and British Columbia.
Hem-fir design values are nearly as strong as Douglas fir,
resulting in an economical and excellent structural product. High
ratios for strength and stiffness make it a good choice for framing, and
the color of its wood is among the lightest of the western softwoods.
Hem-fir is a species with excellent preservative treatment
characteristics, which makes it an economical option to naturally
durable species like western cedars and redwoods.
Hem-fir products are available in structural, appearance and
remanufacturing grades.
Weyerhaeuser > Softwood Lumber > Softwood Lumber Species >
Hem-Fir
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
Date: May 05, 2007
Subject: Re: While You're Making Flying Weather Plans
In a message dated 5/4/2007 9:29:29 PM Central Daylight Time,
tstinemetze(at)cox.net writes:
When Pigs Fly nationally rated BBQ contest and Fly in. This year the event
will be on August 24-25
Hey Tom,
I just put it down on my calender . See ya there (if not sooner).
Chuck G.
NX770CG
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
Date: May 05, 2007
Subject: Wire Wheel kits and old cars
In a message dated 5/5/2007 1:11:21 AM Central Daylight Time,
CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca writes:
I've had two cars with wire wheels, a TR-2/3
Hey Clif,
I had a TR3 when I was 17 - 19 yrs old. Man, was that a fun car to drive. I
always had 2 or 3 passengers with me, in case we had to push the car
somewhere. Never had to open the door...just hop over and into the seat. Plenty
of
power, too. That was the first engine I rebuilt from start to finish. I won
$100 dollars in a twisting road race with an Opel Cadet...blew 'im away. I was
always racing somebody. That was the only car I know of, that in a hard
corner, the front wheels would slide before the back ones...ya just had to get
used to that. I put close to 10,000 miles on it while I had it. It did have
some problems, though. Things kept falling off of it...Like one time the grill
fell out, and I ran over it, another time one of the front brake pads fell
off, and I didn't have brakes, another time the slave cylinder stopped working
so I had to shut the engine off at any stop lights, and use the starter button
go get going then shift without the clutch, another time the generator quit
working (at night of course) and I had to drive home with no headlights because
when I turned the headlight on (one of them worked) the engine stopped
running, but sometimes if I pounded on the dashboard the generator would start
working again. Then, of course, the windshield wipers never did work, so I carried
a long wiper arm and blade off of a big chevy, and just used my left hand out
over the windshield to wipe the windscreen off. This was a Lucas Electrical
System. The steering box was kinda stiff, so I had to turn the steering wheel
back to center. Never did have to worry about getting wet when it rained,
because the ol' rag top couldn't keep much rain off of the occupants anyway (no
side curtains). There was no heater core, so sometimes I had to scrape the
windshield inside and out. I discovered it had a POSITIVE ground, after I put
an Eight Track Tape Player in it, and it gobbled up three of my favorite tapes,
before I realized it was playing them backwards, and had to pull about 100
feet of tape out of the player each time.
Ah, yesss...that sure was a Fun car to drive !!
Chuck G.
NX770CG
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Isablcorky(at)aol.com
Date: May 05, 2007
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel kits and old cars
Chuck,
Next week I'll tell you the story about how my daughter came home from La
Tech one week end and told me about the bargain she found in a drainage ditch
for $100. Yep, an MG Midget w/ wire wheels.
Corky
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dick Navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net>
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel kits and old cars
Date: May 05, 2007
Don't you wish you still had the TR-3? I had one also in the early
70's, paid $600 for it. Have you seen the prices now for them. Fun car
to drive but I never knew when something like the generator would just
fall out. Once the oil plug came out of the pan, talk about smokin.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, May 05, 2007 3:38 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wire Wheel kits and old cars
In a message dated 5/5/2007 1:11:21 AM Central Daylight Time,
CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca writes:
I've had two cars with wire wheels, a TR-2/3
Hey Clif,
I had a TR3 when I was 17 - 19 yrs old. Man, was that a fun car to
drive. I always had 2 or 3 passengers with me, in case we had to push
the car somewhere. Never had to open the door...just hop over and into
the seat. Plenty of power, too. That was the first engine I rebuilt
from start to finish. I won $100 dollars in a twisting road race with
an Opel Cadet...blew 'im away. I was always racing somebody. That was
the only car I know of, that in a hard corner, the front wheels would
slide before the back ones...ya just had to get used to that. I put
close to 10,000 miles on it while I had it. It did have some problems,
though. Things kept falling off of it...Like one time the grill fell
out, and I ran over it, another time one of the front brake pads fell
off, and I didn't have brakes, another time the slave cylinder stopped
working so I had to shut the engine off at any stop lights, and use the
starter button go get going then shift without the clutch, another time
the generator quit working (at night of course) and I had to drive home
with no headlights because when I turned the headlight on (one of them
worked) the engine stopped running, but sometimes if I pounded on the
dashboard the generator would start working again. Then, of course, the
windshield wipers never did work, so I carried a long wiper arm and
blade off of a big chevy, and just used my left hand out over the
windshield to wipe the windscreen off. This was a Lucas Electrical
System. The steering box was kinda stiff, so I had to turn the steering
wheel back to center. Never did have to worry about getting wet when it
rained, because the ol' rag top couldn't keep much rain off of the
occupants anyway (no side curtains). There was no heater core, so
sometimes I had to scrape the windshield inside and out. I discovered
it had a POSITIVE ground, after I put an Eight Track Tape Player in it,
and it gobbled up three of my favorite tapes, before I realized it was
playing them backwards, and had to pull about 100 feet of tape out of
the player each time.
Ah, yesss...that sure was a Fun car to drive !!
Chuck G.
NX770CG
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
See what's free at AOL.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Blaine Aviation Weekend
Date: May 05, 2007
This is coming very soon but it should be a great fly-in. EAA Chapter
237
is having a fly-in pancake breakfast and lunch at Anoka County Airport
in
Blaine, MN on May 19th and 20th
Chapter 237's Famous Pancake Breakfast with sausage and beverage runs
from
7a.m. to noon and lunch of hamburgers, hot dogs and chili runs until
4p.m.
There are two really great aviation museums on the airport. Golden
Wings
Museum has a collection of beautifully restored vintage airplanes that
includes five trimotors. American Wings Air Museum has a collection of
warbirds from WWII to Dessert Storm. They also have a Wright Flyer
replica,
an original 1911 Steco biplane plus many other exhibits.
There was a Swift, an Ercoupe, a Luscombe T8-F plus a lot of other
vintage
airplanes, warbirds and the usual later model airplanes at last year's
event.
There will be a Hangar Dance Saturday evening with the Sights and Sounds
of
Dave Andrews Big Band. This has been a lot of fun for everyone that
attended in past years.
More can be found at www.eaachapter237.org
Thank you,
Lyle Peterson
President, EAA Chapter 237
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 05, 2007
From: Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Wire Wheel kits and old cars
Boy! I never had anything like that! Mine ran like a trooper. Maybe it
was because
it was the transition car between the two and the three. Also the
steering was
great on mine. I could drift it like there was no tomorrow. The Healey
was the
one to break loose on the front. I hated that! It just felt wrong. Only
two things
marred our comanionship. The battery went bad and one day. I had to
start the
thing with the crank in order to get to work. Then the head gasket blew.
It
required two gasket sets to repair it as that engine was half the old
two and
half the new three! ( 1956 I think) It was still going strong when I had
to sell it.
By the way,you know that the entire windshield assembly was removable
for
racing by backing off two large screws, right?
I wonder if that's the appeal of the Piet? There's a lot of
similarities. Both
built like a brick you-know-what, both require attention to drive/fly,
same fun-
factor.
After all this time I finally acquired a 3" micrometer and checked my
best
looking Corvair crank. The bearings are right in the middle of specs for
a
brand new one! Smooth too. That's made me a happy camper. :-)
Clif
I've had two cars with wire wheels, a TR-2/3
Hey Clif,
I had a TR3 when I was 17 - 19 yrs old. Man, was that a fun car to
drive. I always had 2 or 3 passengers with me, in case we had to push
the car somewhere. Never had to open the door...just hop over and into
the seat. Plenty of power, too. That was the first engine I rebuilt
from start to finish. I won $100 dollars in a twisting road race with
an Opel Cadet...blew 'im away. I was always racing somebody. That was
the only car I know of, that in a hard corner, the front wheels would
slide before the back ones
Chuck G.
NX770CG
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tom Stinemetze" <tstinemetze(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: While You're Making Flying Weather Plans
Date: May 06, 2007
Hot Dog! At least we'll have one flying Piet and another that is
recognizable parts.
Tom
> When Pigs Fly nationally rated BBQ contest and Fly in. This year
the event
> will be on August 24-25
> Hey Tom,
> I just put it down on my calender . See ya there (if not
sooner).
> Chuck G.
> NX770CG
____ | ____
\8/
/ \
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 2007
From: "Rick Holland" <at7000ft(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Throttle control question
I plan on making the standard "swinging pendulum" type throttle levers in my
Piet that most people use. Figure that will connect the back lever to the
front with a rod threaded on both ends with screwed on fork ends. My
question is what is the best way to go from the front lever to the carb?
After going through three years of Broadhead pictures I realized I have
taken no front cockpit pictures including front throttle linkage, its so
unexciting normally compared to the average rear cockpit.
Thanks
Rick
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Throttle control question
Date: May 07, 2007
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com>
I ran a standard Bowden cable from my front throttle to the throttle on
the carburetor. Not entirely satisfactory - there is a LOT of friction
due to the major bends in the cable, going from the extreme left side of
the airplane to the carb close to the airplane centerline. As I recall,
I had a couple of near 90 degree bends, I would recommend as gentle a
bend as possible to reduce friction.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Holland
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 10:23 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Throttle control question
I plan on making the standard "swinging pendulum" type throttle levers
in my Piet that most people use. Figure that will connect the back lever
to the front with a rod threaded on both ends with screwed on fork ends.
My question is what is the best way to go from the front lever to the
carb? After going through three years of Broadhead pictures I realized I
have taken no front cockpit pictures including front throttle linkage,
its so unexciting normally compared to the average rear cockpit.
Thanks
Rick
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
d, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it i
n error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any
other use of the email by you is prohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 2007
From: John Egan <johnegan99(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Throttle control question
Good question Rick, as I am also interested in learning this. If I may expand on
your topic. I wonder if fastening the levers to the longeron (or another block
below the longeron) using wood screws is the standard method for fastening?
1. type of cable or linkage to the carb and how to fasten it
2. how to safely attach the throttle levers to the fuselage
john
-still kind of chilly in Wisconsin-
Rick Holland wrote:
I plan on making the standard "swinging pendulum" type throttle levers in my
Piet that most people use. Figure that will connect the back lever to the front
with a rod threaded on both ends with screwed on fork ends. My question is what
is the best way to go from the front lever to the carb? After going through
three years of Broadhead pictures I realized I have taken no front cockpit pictures
including front throttle linkage, its so unexciting normally compared
to the average rear cockpit.
Thanks
Rick
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
---------------------------------
Don't be flakey. Get Yahoo! Mail for Mobile and
always stay connected to friends.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 2007
From: santiago morete <moretesantiago(at)yahoo.com.ar>
Subject: Tailwheel bracket
Thanks for the pics Harvey!!
Jack Phillips, I read that you put the brackets on the longerons behind the gussets.
Is that correct? do you use the horizontal and vertical bolts? Dan Helsper,
I can't see the vertical bolts in those brackets. You will put them later?
Thanks!
Santiago
---------------------------------
Pregunt. Respond. Descubr.
Todo lo que queras saber, y lo que ni imaginabas,
est en Yahoo! Respuestas (Beta).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: HelsperSew(at)aol.com
Date: May 07, 2007
Subject: Re: Tailwheel bracket
Santiago,
I must have missed seeing vertical bolts in that bracket. I don't remember
seeing them on my 1933 plans. Are they there?
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Throttle control question
Date: May 07, 2007
41CC uses a single run of Bowden cable all the way... the center wire is
continuous from pilot's control all the way to the carb, but the outside
jacket/sleeve is interrupted for the front cockpit throttle "lever"
(actually just a spool knob secured to the center wire). Simple and
effective. If I were to redo the setup I would change the position of the
knob in the front cockpit since it's a bit too far aft to get to
comfortably, but then again it's only rarely used up there and you really
don't want passengers fiddling with it anyway.
There is friction drag on the setup but I like it that way... the throttle
does not creep in cruise flight and it requires thought and action to move
the throttle without resorting to a friction clamping screw or a vernier
setup.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
Download Messenger. Join the im Initiative. Help make a difference today.
http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=TAGHM_APR07
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: While You're Making Flying Weather Plans
Date: May 07, 2007
From: "Steve Eldredge" <steve(at)byu.edu>
Tim,
I think in your pictures from last year, the 'Pitts' is a Skybolt and
your 'stinson' is a luscombe silvaire.
Steve E
Low and Slow Since 1929
Pietenpol Aircamper
steve(at)byu.edu
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Stinemetze
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 8:25 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: While You're Making Flying Weather Plans
For those of you close enough to McPherson, Kansas to think about flying
here, don't forget the annual When Pigs Fly nationally rated BBQ contest
and Fly in. This year the event will be on August 24-25 and it would
sure be great to have a few Air Campers and/or Sky Scout's here on the
ramp. The food is great, lots of other activities will be going on
(weather permitting) and I, for one, will ensure that any Pietenpol
birds get prime space on the ramp.
More info at: http://www.eaa1344.com/
Tom Stinemetze
The Airplane Nut
____ | ____
\8/
/ \
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Graham Hansen" <ghans@cable-lynx.net>
Subject: Re: Tailwheel bracket
Date: May 07, 2007
Santiago,
On my Pietenpol, I used only two AN3 (3/16") bolts, placed horizontally
in the lower longeron, for each bracket. I did not use vertical bolts in
order to avoid having too many holes through the longeron. The lower
tabs simply rest against the lower longeron surface and serve to
stabilize the fitting.
Instead of separate bolts for the forward end of the vee-type yoke, I
used a single long 1/4" pivot bolt made from steel drill rod. And the
yoke vee has a 1/2" x .035' tube crosspiece located about 2" back from
the pivot bolt. This crosspiece was an early modification that really
stiiffened the yoke and enabled me to use the single long bolt without
a spacer.
This setup has been entirely satisfactory during literally thousands of
flights from rough fields. I wouldn't change it if I were to build
another Pietenpol.
Graham Hansen Pietenpol CF-AUN
Camrose, Alberta, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 2007
Subject: [ Dan Helsper ] : New Email List Photo Share Available!
From: Email List Photo Shares <pictures(at)matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Dan Helsper
Lists: Pietenpol-List
Subject: Interchangeable Tail Skit/Tailwheel - No Tools Required...
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/HelsperSew@aol.com.05.07.2007/index.html
----------------------------------------------------------
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures(at)matronics.com
----------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gardiner Mason" <airlion(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Going South again
Date: May 07, 2007
Hi you, I am building a Piet in Lagrange, Ga., and would be more than
willing to share info with you. Gardiner Mason
----- Original Message -----
From: AMsafetyC(at)aol.com
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 03, 2007 7:32 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Going South again
Hi all,
On the road again to the Carolinas from Charlotte NC to the GA line on
I 85. During my travels I would like to meet up with other Piet owners
and or builders to check out projects flying and non.
Anyone in that area willing to share some Piet time please let me
know, I would appreciate a meet and greet evening if and where possible.
Please let me know if you're interested!
Thanks
John
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
See what's free at AOL.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Tailwheel bracket
Date: May 07, 2007
From: <harvey.rule(at)bell.ca>
Looks like I'm going to have to sell my Piet Graham.With the high cost
of the hanger rent at 250.00/mo., the cost of gas and repairs to my
Malibou car I've run up against a wall.I figure she's worth $19500.00
cnd.So if any body on this list is interested contact me by personal
email Harvey.rule(at)bell.ca thanks.I hate to sell her but I can't see
the light at the end of the tunnel anymore. I figure I'll keep the N3
Pup since it can sit it outside and I won't need a hanger and she is
also great for winter flying which as you know,the Piet, isn't so
great.If I don't see a response from you guys then I'll put her up for
sale in the COPA and Barnstormers.I figured I'd give you guys first shot
at it.
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Graham
Hansen
Sent: May 7, 2007 1:20 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Tailwheel bracket
Santiago,
On my Pietenpol, I used only two AN3 (3/16") bolts, placed horizontally
in the lower longeron, for each bracket. I did not use vertical bolts in
order to avoid having too many holes through the longeron. The lower
tabs simply rest against the lower longeron surface and serve to
stabilize the fitting.
Instead of separate bolts for the forward end of the vee-type yoke, I
used a single long 1/4" pivot bolt made from steel drill rod. And the
yoke vee has a 1/2" x .035' tube crosspiece located about 2" back from
the pivot bolt. This crosspiece was an early modification that really
stiiffened the yoke and enabled me to use the single long bolt without
a spacer.
This setup has been entirely satisfactory during literally thousands of
flights from rough fields. I wouldn't change it if I were to build
another Pietenpol.
Graham Hansen Pietenpol CF-AUN
Camrose, Alberta, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
Date: May 07, 2007
Subject: Re: Throttle control question
In a message dated 5/7/2007 9:24:32 AM Central Daylight Time,
at7000ft(at)gmail.com writes:
I plan on making the standard "swinging pendulum" type throttle levers in my
Piet that most people use. Figure that will connect the back lever to the
front with a rod threaded on both ends with screwed on fork ends. My question is
what is the best way to go from the front lever to the carb? After going
through three years of Broadhead pictures I realized I have taken no front cockpit
pictures including front throttle linkage, its so unexciting normally compared
to the average rear cockpit.
Thanks
Rick
It took me three tries, before I found a suitable method to mount the power
lever in the aft cockpit. Doug B. mounted it 'per plans', and it was just too
uncomfortably hard for me to manage, because my for arm was too long, and I
had to bend my wrist a lot just to get to it. You guys have never met a
'Purist' till you met Doug. He said "Well, you're just going to have to have surgery
to your left for arm, and have it shortened by about 4". Having found out
the surgery was going to cost more than the whole Pietenpol project, he agreed
we should move the throttle handle, and moved it forward several inches. That
still didn't feel right. I finally found the best way was to mount it
horizontally, under the instrument panel, so the handle was in a similar location
close to the left longeron. I use a bolt / castle nut / washer to adjust
friction. I bought a used J3 cub throttle cable to go from the carb, and
conveniently ended under the front panel. I use a 3/8" X .035" tube, flattened
at both
ends, to connect the J3 throttle cable to the throttle handle. The 3/8" tube
slides through an oversized Adel clamp that is mounted to the bottom of the
front panel. I have another pair of Adel clamps mounted tight on the 3/8 tube,
for the throttle handle for the front cockpit. Works good, no problems, and
I saved about $35,000 dollars not having the surgery.
Chuck G.
NX770CG
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 2007
From: "Rick Holland" <at7000ft(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Throttle control question
Thanks Chuck, do you have and pictures? I know I have taken pictures of your
Piet at Broadhead but nothing with your throttle controls.
Rick
On 5/7/07, Rcaprd(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 5/7/2007 9:24:32 AM Central Daylight Time,
> at7000ft(at)gmail.com writes:
>
> I plan on making the standard "swinging pendulum" type throttle levers in
> my Piet that most people use. Figure that will connect the back lever to the
> front with a rod threaded on both ends with screwed on fork ends. My
> question is what is the best way to go from the front lever to the carb?
> After going through three years of Broadhead pictures I realized I have
> taken no front cockpit pictures including front throttle linkage, its so
> unexciting normally compared to the average rear cockpit.
>
> Thanks
>
> Rick
>
> It took me three tries, before I found a suitable method to mount the
> power lever in the aft cockpit. Doug B. mounted it 'per plans', and it was
> just too uncomfortably hard for me to manage, because my for arm was too
> long, and I had to bend my wrist a lot just to get to it. You guys have
> never met a 'Purist' till you met Doug. He said "Well, you're just going to
> have to have surgery to your left for arm, and have it shortened by about
> 4". Having found out the surgery was going to cost more than the whole
> Pietenpol project, he agreed we should move the throttle handle, and moved
> it forward several inches. That still didn't feel right. I finally found
> the best way was to mount it horizontally, under the instrument panel, so
> the handle was in a similar location close to the left longeron. I use a
> bolt / castle nut / washer to adjust friction. I bought a used J3 cub
> throttle cable to go from the carb, and conveniently ended under the front
> panel. I use a 3/8" X .035" tube, flattened at both ends, to connect the J3
> throttle cable to the throttle handle. The 3/8" tube slides through an
> oversized Adel clamp that is mounted to the bottom of the front panel. I
> have another pair of Adel clamps mounted tight on the 3/8 tube, for the
> throttle handle for the front cockpit. Works good, no problems, and I saved
> about $35,000 dollars not having the surgery.
>
> Chuck G.
> NX770CG
>
>
> ------------------------------
> See what's free at AOL.com <http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503>.
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 07, 2007
From: "Rick Holland" <at7000ft(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Throttle control question
That's about as simple a solution as I can imagine Oscar (which usually
means its a good solution), I assume you clamped the cable housing under the
front and rear cockpits?
Rick
On 5/7/07, Oscar Zuniga wrote:
>
> taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
>
> 41CC uses a single run of Bowden cable all the way... the center wire is
> continuous from pilot's control all the way to the carb, but the outside
> jacket/sleeve is interrupted for the front cockpit throttle "lever"
> (actually just a spool knob secured to the center wire). Simple and
> effective. If I were to redo the setup I would change the position of the
> knob in the front cockpit since it's a bit too far aft to get to
> comfortably, but then again it's only rarely used up there and you really
> don't want passengers fiddling with it anyway.
>
> There is friction drag on the setup but I like it that way... the throttle
> does not creep in cruise flight and it requires thought and action to move
> the throttle without resorting to a friction clamping screw or a vernier
> setup.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Download Messenger. Join the i'm Initiative. Help make a difference today.
> http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=TAGHM_APR07
>
>
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Throttle control question
Date: May 08, 2007
Rick asked-
>I assume you clamped the cable housing under the front and rear cockpits?
Yes, it's clamped in both locations, with more than one clamp. I've left it
exactly as Corky set it up but may rework it next winter when things get
slow again.
For a setup that uses rods and bellcranks all the way from throttle to carb,
completely 'hard' linkages all the way from end to end, there are pictures
of Ernie Moreno's Piet setup here:
http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/piets2.html showing the linkages as the rod
passes through the firewall, and then the 'cockpits' page showing how the
quadrants are set up and connected together,
http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/piets3.html
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
Catch suspicious messages before you open themwith Windows Live Hotmail.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 08, 2007
From: "Rick Holland" <at7000ft(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Throttle control question
Oscar
Question about your front rudder petals, looking at your pictures, do you
have a cable or a solid rod running between your front and back rudder
petals? If a cable is that a spring running from the front petal to the
firewall? I am asking because I was thinking of using springs.
Rick
On 5/8/07, Oscar Zuniga wrote:
>
> taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
>
> Rick asked-
>
> >I assume you clamped the cable housing under the front and rear cockpits
?
>
> Yes, it's clamped in both locations, with more than one clamp. I've left
> it
> exactly as Corky set it up but may rework it next winter when things get
> slow again.
>
> For a setup that uses rods and bellcranks all the way from throttle to
> carb,
> completely 'hard' linkages all the way from end to end, there are picture
s
>
> of Ernie Moreno's Piet setup here:
>
> http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/piets2.html showing the linkages as the
> rod
> passes through the firewall, and then the 'cockpits' page showing how the
> quadrants are set up and connected together,
> http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/piets3.html
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Catch suspicious messages before you open them=97with Windows Live Hotmai
l.
>
>
===========
===========
===========
>
>
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: pedal return springs
Date: May 08, 2007
Rick-
The pictures on my website that you're referring to are of Ernie Moreno's
Piet, not mine, but to answer your question- it sure looks like there are
pedal return springs on the pilot's pedals but I don't see any for the
passenger pedals. Surely there are some there because the link between the
front and rear pedals are 1/8" cables (the Nicopress sleeves are clearly
visible). Without something to hold up the front pedals, they will simply
flop over backwards the first time you steer them past the tip-over point.
Dan Horton had a really clean and nifty pedal return spring setup on his
replica Canuck/Jenny (Geo Metro power, I believe). I have some pictures of
his setup somewhere; I'll try to dig them up because it was a very nice
arrangement. He used circular springs rather than coil springs but it's
hard to describe in words. Let me find the pix and scan them.
On 41CC, the linkages between pilot's rudder bar and passenger's pedals are
4130 steel tubing (small diameter) with fork ends.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
Now you can see troublebefore he arrives
http://newlivehotmail.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_protection_0507
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
Date: May 08, 2007
Subject: Re: Throttle control question
In a message dated 5/7/2007 7:56:31 PM Central Daylight Time,
at7000ft(at)gmail.com writes:
Thanks Chuck, do you have and pictures? I know I have taken pictures of your
Piet at Broadhead but nothing with your throttle controls.
Rick
Rick,
I'll get some good pictures of the set up on Thursday of Friday. TFR in
Wichita on Wednesday for Air Force One, so Bush can see the devistation in
Greensburg KS.
Chuck G.
NX770CG
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2007
From: santiago morete <moretesantiago(at)yahoo.com.ar>
Subject: Tailwheel bracket
Thanks Graham!!
I don't like the idea of drilling cross holes in the longeron. Your experience
is more than enough for me.
Yes Dan, those bolts are on the 1933 plans, but for me it's not very clear. Don't
worry, we can blame the young Hoopman : )
Saludos
Santiago
---------------------------------
Pregunt. Respond. Descubr.
Todo lo que queras saber, y lo que ni imaginabas,
est en Yahoo! Respuestas (Beta).
________________________________________________________________________________
From: HelsperSew(at)aol.com
Date: May 09, 2007
Subject: Re: Tailwheel bracket
Santiago,
Yes, I went home yesterday and saw those bolts on my plans. It seems like a
lot of holes and bolts for the application. At most I might put a couple of
wood screws in there.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 09, 2007
From: Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Throttle control question
Oscar,
On Ernie Moren's Piet, do you know why the cowl and the motor mount are both so
long, and after the tail has been lightened, the plane is still tailheavy? Is
Ernie himself quite heavy? As you know these CG issues are quite germane for
me.
Thanks,
Tim in central TX
-----Original Message-----
>From: Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
>Sent: May 8, 2007 7:03 AM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Throttle control question
>
>
>Rick asked-
>
>>I assume you clamped the cable housing under the front and rear cockpits?
>
>Yes, it's clamped in both locations, with more than one clamp. I've left it
>exactly as Corky set it up but may rework it next winter when things get
>slow again.
>
>For a setup that uses rods and bellcranks all the way from throttle to carb,
>completely 'hard' linkages all the way from end to end, there are pictures
>of Ernie Moreno's Piet setup here:
>
>http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/piets2.html showing the linkages as the rod
>passes through the firewall, and then the 'cockpits' page showing how the
>quadrants are set up and connected together,
>http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/piets3.html
>
>Oscar Zuniga
>San Antonio, TX
>mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
>website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Catch suspicious messages before you open themwith Windows Live Hotmail.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard and Kathryn Davis" <kbrooks(at)aptalaska.net>
Subject: Aileron control horns
Date: May 09, 2007
I am looking for a set of aileron horns would anyone have a extra set
for sale.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: pedal return spring
Date: May 10, 2007
I've scanned and uploaded a photo of Dan Horton's pedal return spring setup,
at http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/pedalspring.jpg
You can see the spiral-type spring that holds the pedals in place and
maintains tension on the rudder cables. I thought it was clean and clever.
Also visible in the photo is Dan's heel brake setup. It isn't real clear in
the photo but what he has are small heel brake arms that he fabricated from
aluminum stock, with the braking force transferred from the brake arm to the
actuator arm via a rod or tube that is concentric (inside) the rudder pedal
pivot tube. That puts the brake cables all the way outboard, out of the way
against the inside of the cockpit wall, with a straight shot down to the
mechanical drum brakes.
Not only did Dan's airplane win awards in its "Canuck/Jenny" configuration
after he completed it, but it was again a show winner last year (I believe),
also appearing in a feature story in Sport Aviation after Dan sold it and it
was repainted and marked as a different airplane. Was it a Navy paint
scheme? I'm over the hill now and don't remember too well ;o)
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
Like the way Microsoft Office Outlook works? Youll love Windows Live
Hotmail.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 2007
From: "Rick Holland" <at7000ft(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Throttle control question
One other throttle control questions for anyone that has used the standard
throttle lever hanging from the top longeron. Is it necessary to secure the
bracket to the longeron with bolts and nuts or will two wood screws (maybe
with a little epoxy on the threads) be enough?
Thanks
Rick
On 5/7/07, Rick Holland wrote:
>
> I plan on making the standard "swinging pendulum" type throttle levers in
> my Piet that most people use. Figure that will connect the back lever to the
> front with a rod threaded on both ends with screwed on fork ends. My
> question is what is the best way to go from the front lever to the carb?
> After going through three years of Broadhead pictures I realized I have
> taken no front cockpit pictures including front throttle linkage, its so
> unexciting normally compared to the average rear cockpit.
>
> Thanks
>
> Rick
>
> --
> Rick Holland
> ObjectAge Ltd.
> Castle Rock, Colorado
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 2007
From: gus notti <gus_notti(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Wing flying drag wires?
Hello All,
Are the 1/8 X wires really needed inbetween the wing struts?
Thanks
---------------------------------
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 10, 2007
From: gus notti <gus_notti(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Info needed on the 1/8 flying wires in between the wing
struts.
Hello All,
I need some info on the 1/8 flying wires. I need to know are they adjestable,
and how are they attached?
Thanks
---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard and Kathryn Davis" <kbrooks(at)aptalaska.net>
Subject: aileron horns
Date: May 10, 2007
Would anyone have a spare set they would like to sell?? I am in
desperate need of a pair ASAP Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard and Kathryn Davis" <kbrooks(at)aptalaska.net>
Subject: Double posting
Date: May 10, 2007
Sorry for the double posting folks our postings kept coming back saying
we couldn't post now here they are . Anyhow wishing all a great Thursday
and all the moms out there a Happy Day Sunday Richard & Kathryn
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gcardinal" <gcardinal(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Info needed on the 1/8 flying wires in between the
wing struts.
Date: May 10, 2007
Hi Gus,
The 1/8" cables between the lift struts are adjustable with turnbuckles.
On NX18235 the outboard ends are attached to the lift strut attach bolts
using a cable pull. The inboard ends are attached to an eyebolt that
also serves as one of the gear leg mounting bolts.
Greg Cardinal
Minneapolis
----- Original Message -----
From: gus notti
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 2:47 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Info needed on the 1/8 flying wires in
between the wing struts.
Hello All,
I need some info on the 1/8 flying wires. I need to know are they
adjestable, and how are they attached?
Thanks
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check out new cars at Yahoo! Autos.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Singleton" <slsingleton(at)cvalley.net>
Subject: Re: Hem fir
Date: May 10, 2007
Sorry i'm so late saying thanks for the info on Hem fir. My email went
down after i asked that question and i've been gone since Tuesday with
my work. My little world was just shattered today when my daughter
called and told me she had heard that the road was closed a few miles
south of the airport at Carrollton MO where we keep our Champ. I thought
no big deal because we are quite a ways from it. I got with the Opts
manager at our office where i work out of and told them i needed to get
home to check on my plane (I truck for a living) and they got me in this
evening. I work in Kansas so it was about 9:30 this evening when i got
to Carrollton. I could not believe it-I could'nt even get to the airport
because of the high water. I'm guessing that there is 2 to 3 feet of
water in the hanger. Words can not even begin to express the feelings i
have now-disbelief to anger (at myself). This happened in 93 but was
only supposed to happen every 500 years. I'm a half hour north of the
airport but will go back tomorrow and try to find someone with a boat to
take me out to the airport. Hopefully i can get it up on a makeshift
stand to get the water out of it if it is that deep. I'm so emotionally
down now that i have to taslk to someone and i know this group is the
one to go to even if its only for moral support. Steve Singleton
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Church
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2007 9:13 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Hem fir
Steve,
Not sure, when you say 'Hem Fir", if you are referring to Western
Hemlock. If that's what you mean, then it can be a suitable substitute
for Sitka Spruce (almost identical density, with higher strength). Ask
the lumberyard exactly what species they have on hand. Check the
weblinks that Chris Tracy posted yesterday, and you'll see Western
Hemlock listed in the charts.
Go to the Matronics Archives,
http://www.matronics.com/search/
and do a search in the Pietenpol Archive, using the word "hemlock".
You should find enough reading to keep you busy for a couple of hours.
As you read through, you'll see that at least one builder (Clif Dawson)
has built almost his entire airframe using CAREFULLY SELECTED Western
Hemlock.
I can't recall the source, but I definitely remember reading that BHP
built laminated spars from carefully selected lumberyard Hemlock.
Bill C.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Catdesigns" <catdesigns(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Wing flying drag wires?
Date: May 10, 2007
Gus
Yes, the wires are VERY important. The vertical loads on the wing are
supported by the two struts. The struts on a Pietenpol are parallel to
each other. This configuration does not resist for and aft loads very
well. The wires take the for and aft loads keeping the struts and wing
from rotating front and back. They are only loaded in tension so wire
works quite well and are lighter then tubing. See attached drawing for
a pictorial description. The same explanation works for the cabain
struts as well as the wing struts.
Some designs, like a cub, angle the rear strut forward to do away with
the wires and take the for and aft loads. This requires a very strong
fitting where all the wing loads are concentrated. Mr. Pietenpol chose
to divide the load into two thus making it safer for the light weight
structure to carry the loads.
Chris Tracy
Sacramento, Ca
Website at http://www.Westcoastpiet.com
----- Original Message -----
From: gus notti
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 10:51 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wing flying drag wires?
Hello All,
Are the 1/8 X wires really needed inbetween the wing struts?
Thanks
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene & Tammy" <zharvey(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Hem fir
Date: May 11, 2007
Steve,
Sorry to hear about flood. Really hope your plane is ok. I live in
Tennessee and could be there in a day if you need help.
Gene
731-584-3443
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Another British Piet Takes Flight
Date: May 11, 2007
From: "Bill Church" <eng(at)canadianrogers.com>
Looks like another Pietenpol showpiece has taken flight in the UK.
I was just checking out the UK Pietenpol Club website, and saw this
photo.
http://www.pietenpolclub.co.uk/gallery/displayimage.php?album=56&pos=
4
Check out the workmanship on this plane - outstanding!
For those on the list that put off building because they think they need
to have a perfectly equipped shop before they can begin construction,
check out this page that shows the progress of this plane six years ago:
http://www.pietenpolclub.co.uk/builders/chrisandfransprogress.htm
That looks even tighter than Chuck Gantzer's "in-house" building as seen
in his DVD.
I believe this plane was built by a husband/wife team (Chris and Fran
Barley) over a 14 year period... that would make it a lot easier getting
spousal approval for having a plane in the house.
Bill C.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 2007
From: "Rick Holland" <at7000ft(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Wing flying drag wires?
The wires also provide a safety factor in case a strut or strut fitting
comes loose correct?
Rick
On 5/10/07, Catdesigns wrote:
>
> Gus
>
> Yes, the wires are VERY important. The vertical loads on the wing are
> supported by the two struts. The struts on a Pietenpol are parallel to each
> other. This configuration does not resist for and aft loads very
> well. The wires take the for and aft loads keeping the struts and wing from
> rotating front and back. They are only loaded in tension so wire works
> quite well and are lighter then tubing. See attached drawing for a
> pictorial description. The same explanation works for the cabain struts as
> well as the wing struts.
>
> Some designs, like a cub, angle the rear strut forward to do away with the
> wires and take the for and aft loads. This requires a very strong fitting
> where all the wing loads are concentrated. Mr. Pietenpol chose to divide
> the load into two thus making it safer for the light weight structure to
> carry the loads.
>
> Chris Tracy
> Sacramento, Ca
> Website at http://www.Westcoastpiet.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> *From:* gus notti
> *To:* pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 10, 2007 10:51 AM
> *Subject:* Pietenpol-List: Wing flying drag wires?
>
> Hello All,
>
> Are the 1/8 X wires really needed inbetween the wing struts?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> ------------------------------
> We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=49980/*http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265>
> (and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=49980/*http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/265>
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 11, 2007
From: gus notti <gus_notti(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Wing flying drag wires?
Chris thank you very much,
Do you know how tight they are supposrt to be? I'm thinking then need to be tight.
Thanks
Catdesigns wrote:
Gus
Yes, the wires are VERY important. The vertical loads on the wing are supported
by the two struts. The struts on a Pietenpol are parallel to each other.
This configuration does not resist for and aft loads very well. The wires take
the for and aft loads keeping the struts and wing from rotating front and back.
They are only loaded in tension so wire works quite well and are lighter then
tubing. See attached drawing for a pictorial description. The same explanation
works for the cabain struts as well as the wing struts.
Some designs, like a cub, angle the rear strut forward to do away with the wires
and take the for and aft loads. This requires a very strong fitting where
all the wing loads are concentrated. Mr. Pietenpol chose to divide the load
into two thus making it safer for the light weight structure to carry the loads.
Chris Tracy
Sacramento, Ca
Website at http://www.Westcoastpiet.com
----- Original Message -----
From: gus notti
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 10:51 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wing flying drag wires?
Hello All,
Are the 1/8 X wires really needed inbetween the wing struts?
Thanks
---------------------------------
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
---------------------------------
Finding fabulous fares is fun.
Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight and hotel
bargains.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Catdesigns" <catdesigns(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Wing flying drag wires?
Date: May 11, 2007
I'm sorry I do not know how tight as I have yet to finish my plane.
Being in tension the wire should not need to be that tight. Just tight
enough to take out the stretch. I believe that others have said they
should have a dull twang sound when plucked. Not a sharp high tone.
Mike Cuy Chuck G. and Jack P. will know better, as they have flying
planes.
Chris Tracy
Sacramento, Ca
Website at http://www.Westcoastpiet.com
----- Original Message -----
From: gus notti
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 8:34 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing flying drag wires?
Chris thank you very much,
Do you know how tight they are supposrt to be? I'm thinking then need
to be tight.
Thanks
Catdesigns wrote:
Gus
Yes, the wires are VERY important. The vertical loads on the wing
are supported by the two struts. The struts on a Pietenpol are parallel
to each other. This configuration does not resist for and aft loads
very well. The wires take the for and aft loads keeping the struts and
wing from rotating front and back. They are only loaded in tension so
wire works quite well and are lighter then tubing. See attached drawing
for a pictorial description. The same explanation works for the cabain
struts as well as the wing struts.
Some designs, like a cub, angle the rear strut forward to do away
with the wires and take the for and aft loads. This requires a very
strong fitting where all the wing loads are concentrated. Mr. Pietenpol
chose to divide the load into two thus making it safer for the light
weight structure to carry the loads.
Chris Tracy
Sacramento, Ca
Website at http://www.Westcoastpiet.com
----- Original Message -----
From: gus notti
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 10:51 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wing flying drag wires?
Hello All,
Are the 1/8 X wires really needed inbetween the wing struts?
Thanks
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
We won't tell. Get more on shows you hate to love
(and love to hate): Yahoo! TV's Guilty Pleasures list.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.mat
ronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Finding fabulous fares is fun.
Let Yahoo! FareChase search your favorite travel sites to find flight
and hotel bargains.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 2007
From: "walt evans" <waltdak(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Where do I go?
My PPSEL license had been resting comfortably in my wallet for 41 years.
Just today a friend showed me his new Sport Pilot card, which looks like
my new digitalized drivers license.
Where to go to get an up to date copy?
Thanks
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"No one ever learned anything by talking"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: SSchof4277(at)aol.com
Date: May 12, 2007
Subject: Re: Where do I go?
To replace your paper certificate with a plastic certificate, go to
_http://www.faa.gov/licenses_certificates/airmen_certification/certificate_rep
lacement/_
(http://www.faa.gov/licenses_certificates/airmen_certification/certificate_replacement/) and select the option to replace paper certificate.
The FAA was charging two dollars for the plastic replacement but was free if the
new certificate was issued based on the satisfactory completion of FAA
practical test for a new license or rating, which would result in the issuance
of a
new certificate.
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
Date: May 12, 2007
Subject: Re: Wing flying drag wires?
In a message dated 5/12/2007 1:16:55 AM Central Daylight Time,
catdesigns(at)comcast.net writes:
I'm sorry I do not know how tight as I have yet to finish my plane. Being in
tension the wire should not need to be that tight. Just tight enough to take
out the stretch. I believe that others have said they should have a dull twang
sound when plucked. Not a sharp high tone. Mike Cuy Chuck G. and Jack P.
will know better, as they have flying planes.
Chris Tracy
That's right, Chris...a dull twang is what I end up with. Take all the slack
out, then a little tighter (maybe a turn or two) with the turnbuckle. To a
lesser extent, these cables can also be used for adjusting the washout....back
one off, and tighten the other one up the same amount, then re-check the wing
alignment - just don't forget to re-safety the turnbuckles. I also use
nylon zip ties to seperate and secure the cables where they criss cross. A
failure in any of the struts, or cables on the Piet, would most likely be
catastrophic.
Chuck G.
NX770CG
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 2007
Subject: Re: Where do I go?
From: John Hofmann <jhofmann(at)reesgroupinc.com>
This is how I got mine replaced as well. Walt, they did not charge me as I
was having my SS number replaced at the same time. I did this last Auguts.
They gave me the nice plastic card for Pilot and another one for my A&P.
-john-
> To replace your paper certificate with a plastic certificate, go to
> http://www.faa.gov/licenses_certificates/airmen_certification/certificate_repl
> acement/ and select the option to replace paper certificate. The FAA was
> charging two dollars for the plastic replacement but was free if the new
> certificate was issued based on the satisfactory completion of FAA practical
> test for a new license or rating, which would result in the issuance of a new
> certificate.
>
>
>
>
> See what's free at AOL.com <http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF00020000000503> .
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Skip Gadd" <skipgadd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Felix back flying
Date: May 12, 2007
Well, about 9 months after I bought it I FINELY got to fly Felix the GN-1. The
first flight this morning went great. Second flight this evening got windy as
I was climbing out. Flew around for awhile and made a few approaches, one didn't
seem too bad so I landed, really got lucky and the landing went fine.
Skip
skipgadd(at)earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Dick Navratil" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net>
Subject: Re: Felix back flying
Date: May 12, 2007
Good goin, Skip. Nice to have you back among the flying.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: Skip Gadd
To: pietenpol-list
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 9:07 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Felix back flying
Well, about 9 months after I bought it I FINELY got to fly Felix the
GN-1. The first flight this morning went great. Second flight this
evening got windy as I was climbing out. Flew around for awhile and made
a few approaches, one didn't seem too bad so I landed, really got lucky
and the landing went fine.
Skip
skipgadd(at)earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 12, 2007
From: Mike Volckmann <mike_cfi(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Where do I go?
Walt,
Just wait and it will come. The FAA is in the process of updating all licenses
to the new format.
Mike
----- Original Message ----
From: walt evans <waltdak(at)verizon.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 12:07:27 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Where do I go?
My PPSEL license had been resting comfortably in my wallet for 41 years. Just today
a friend showed me his new Sport Pilot card, which looks like my new digitalized
drivers license.
Where to go to get an up to date copy?
Thanks
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"No one ever learned anything by talking"
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gene & Tammy" <zharvey(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Felix back flying
Date: May 13, 2007
Congratulations Skip! What all did you need to do to be flying again?
I'm almost ready myself. Bought 502R in July and by December decided to
to a complete rebuild of the A 65. It's been slow but hope to be
airborn by the 20th of this month (my birthday).
Gene
By the way, that's a great photo. Very inspiring!
----- Original Message -----
From: Skip Gadd
To: pietenpol-list
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 9:07 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Felix back flying
Well, about 9 months after I bought it I FINELY got to fly Felix the
GN-1. The first flight this morning went great. Second flight this
evening got windy as I was climbing out. Flew around for awhile and made
a few approaches, one didn't seem too bad so I landed, really got lucky
and the landing went fine.
Skip
skipgadd(at)earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
Date: May 13, 2007
Subject: Re: Felix back flying
Congratulations, Skip !! Great news. Do you think you might make it to
Brodhead this summer ?
Chuck G.
NX770CG
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: Rcaprd(at)aol.com
Date: May 13, 2007
Subject: Alcohol Anyone ?
I have been using about a 50 / 50 mix of AvGas and MoGas, but I always check
for alcohol before I put the MoGas in the tank. Yesterday was the first time
I found alcohol in the 91 octane Quick Trip gas. Here in Kansas, there is no
requirement for the gas stations to state there is alcohol in the fuel. I
guess Gov. Sebelius got her way. I'll be checking the other stations, but being
in Kansas, I would suppose all the fuel out here has some corn in it...bummer.
The way I check for alcohol is simple - I use the fuel sump tool. I
measured the depth of fuel it will hold, and painted a mark at the 10% mark and
100% mark. Put water in it exactly to the 10% mark, then fill with fuel to the
100% mark. Put my thumb over it and shake it vigorously. If the water line
increases, ya got alcohol. It didn't take much time before the alcohol reared
it's ugly head, in fact there showed 3 distinct layers in the sump tool - most
of the water in the bottom, then a milky layer about 1/4" thick was the
alcohol and water mix, then the fuel on top the rest of the way up.
Chuck G.
NX770CG
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Skip Gadd" <skipgadd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Felix back flying
Date: May 13, 2007
Dick, Gene and Chuck, Thank you, It is good to be flying the Aircamper.
I hope to fly it to Brodhead, if the weather is good and I get enough time in the
plane before then.
Gene, It is a long story involving living quarters, the plane itself didn't need
much. I changed the tires, removed the smoke system and reinstalled the front
controls and put in a fuel shut-off valve and the scat tube that pushes the
air for carb heat. I got an impulse mag on ebay, but using the same procedure
each time it starts ok, and may wait for the annual to install the new mag.
Good luck on flying yours next weekend.
I will tell Cinda you liked the picture.
Skip
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Felix back flying
From: "Don Emch" <EmchAir(at)aol.com>
Date: May 13, 2007
Skip,
Great news! I was just wondering a few days ago how you made out with Felix.
I hope you enjoy it! I really hope to see you at Brodhead with it. I plan
to fly mine up.
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=112671#112671
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Throttle control question
From: "Don Emch" <EmchAir(at)aol.com>
Date: May 13, 2007
Rick,
I used the plans underhung lever. I mounted it just like the plans with screws
into the longeron. Very secure. I ran a 3/16" steel rod from the lever forward
to the front of the front cockpit. The rear end of the rod is threaded and
a 10-32 fork is threaded onto it to attach to the lever. The forward end is
also threaded and has a turnbuckle barrel threaded onto it. That has an eye
terminal at the other end of the barrel that attaches to a flexible throttle
cable that runs to the carb. The cable is an A-920 throttle cable I bought from
Aircraft Spruce. A little pricy but worth it. This has solid ends that swivel
a few degrees. Really a great thing when it comes to fitting the throttle.
The front cockpit can control the throttle by sliding that steel rod. The
turnbuckle allows some adjustment to get the "feel" right for the pilot's lever.
The lever results in a natural feeling. I have long gangly arms so I did
have to move it forward slightly more than whats shown on the plans. Seems to
be very smooth operation.
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=112674#112674
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Felix back flying
Date: May 13, 2007
Jolly good show, Skip! Glad to hear that you're back in the air.
After a workday at the hangar on Saturday (with all the rains we've had, the
grass and weeds are growing like crazy), I took care of some chores, sopped
up some of the sweat and dust, and then took 41CC for a short hop. Not much
of that rod showing out of the top of my fuel cap, so I didn't want to go
very far, but the breeze was fair and the time was right. On rollout for
takeoff, I had the same roughness and loss of power as last time but it went
away as soon as I pulled carb heat so I backed off, taxied back to the
numbers, pulled carb heat, and off we went at full power.
Beautiful afternoon to be up, and the airplane was in top form. Made one of
my best landings ever, and it was a good thing, too... the EAA Chapter 35
executive committee was scheduled to meet in just a few minutes so they were
all outside the clubhouse, judging my landing. I didn't give 'em anything
to deduct points for this time and the airplane sure did its part ;o)
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
PC Magazines 2007 editors choice for best Web mailaward-winning Windows
Live Hotmail.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Skip Gadd" <skipgadd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Felix back flying
Date: May 13, 2007
Don,
Great, can't wait to see your ship in person, and you of course too. ;^)
Skip
> [Original Message]
> From: Don Emch
I plan to fly mine up.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Skip Gadd" <skipgadd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Felix back flying
Date: May 13, 2007
Oscar,
Thanks.
On your carb heat, do you see any drop in rpm?
On Felix and the Cheif in the next hangar with the same engine, we don't
seem to get any drop on the ground. Only when the engine warms up after
flying awhile, than we will see a slight drop.
Skip
> [Original Message]
> From: Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
>
, pulled carb heat, and off we went at full power.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Felix back flying
Date: May 14, 2007
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinal.com>
Way to go, Skip! Great feeling, isn't it?
Jack Phillips
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Skip
Gadd
Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2007 10:07 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Felix back flying
Well, about 9 months after I bought it I FINELY got to fly Felix the
GN-1. The first flight this morning went great. Second flight this
evening got windy as I was climbing out. Flew around for awhile and made
a few approaches, one didn't seem too bad so I landed, really got lucky
and the landing went fine.
Skip
skipgadd(at)earthlink.net
EarthLink Revolves Around You.
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
d, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have received it i
n error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any
other use of the email by you is prohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: carb heat on 41CC
Date: May 14, 2007
To answer Skip's question (and a few other folks who asked), I've uploaded a
couple of photos of the modified Aeronca heat muff setup that I have on
41CC, to my website-
http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/engine/carbheat.html
It works well, giving me 100-150 RPM drop on application of heat. I suppose
I could instrument the carb air inlet and measure temperatures before and
after application of carb heat, but we're living in the 1930s here and I
wouldn't want to offend Mr. Pietenpol's sensibilities by throwing digital
electronics into the mix ;o) The setup works.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
More photos, more messages, more storageget 2GB with Windows Live Hotmail.
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Skip Gadd" <skipgadd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Felix back flying
Date: May 14, 2007
Jack, Thanks. The first flight was really great. The second flight, it was really
great to get back on the ground. ;)
Skip
----- Original Message -----
From: Phillips, Jack
Sent: 5/14/2007 7:27:35 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Felix back flying
Way to go, Skip! Great feeling, isn't it?
Jack Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
From: TGSTONE236(at)aol.com
Date: May 14, 2007
Subject: MID-ATLANTIC FLY-IN
I HOPE THAT ALL WHO ARE CLOSE BY COME TO LUMBERTON NC ON I-95. FLY OR DRIVE
TO THE MID-ATLANTIC FLY-IN MAY 18,19 & 20. SURE WOULD LOVE TO SEE A COUPLE
OF PIETENPOLS THERE. IT WOULD MAKE MY GOING WORTHWHILE AS I'M SURE OTHERS
WOULD LOVE TO SEE A REAL AIRPLANE FOR A CHANGE.
HOPE TO SEE YOU THERE
TED STONE
PIET BUILDER, I NEED ALL THE INSPIRATION I CAN GET
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Throttle control question
From: "Don Emch" <EmchAir(at)aol.com>
Date: May 15, 2007
Rick,
I was out flying last night and realized my throttle "rod" is not 3/16" like I
said. It's actually 1/4" with forks at each end. The forward end attaches to
the turnbuckle. As it passes through the front cockpit I have a hardwood block
that it goes through as a guide. I have a leather washer at the mounting point
of the under slung throttle. This allows for smoother operation.
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=113013#113013
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Ruse" <steve(at)wotelectronics.com>
Subject: Chet Peek's book "The Pietenpol Story"
Date: May 15, 2007
I just thought I would let everyone know there is now an "official" website
for all of Chet Peek's books, including "The Pietenpol Story". In case you
haven't heard of it, it is a great book, anyone remotely interested in
AirCampers should read it.
The address is:
http://www.threepeakspub.com
Steve Ruse
Norman, OK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Ruse
Sent: Wednesday, October 11, 2006 10:51 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Chet Peek's book "The Pietenpol Story"
Chet has received his book from the publisher, and is ready to start selling
copies. Until the end of the year, he will be distributing the book
himself, so the only way to get one is to e-mail him directly to order it.
I will get my copy Thursday afternoon and can't wait. I'll be sure to post
some thoughts on the book soon, I bet I'll have it read cover to cover in
two to three days.
His e-mail address is RBaron18(at)aol.com. I asked him today and he said he
will be taking orders for the book by e-mail, so don't hesitate to send him
an e-mail if you are interested. There are even a couple of pictures of my
plane in the book, and a little bit of information on my plane and how I
obtained it, so I'm particularly excited about the book.
If you don't know who Chet Peek is, he is an "Aviation Historian", who knows
plenty about aviation. He was in B-17s in WWII, and has plenty of hands-on
restoration and flying experience. He restored and flew a Curtis Jenny
which was actually for sale on Barnstormers recently. I'm sure he has
forgotten more about airplanes than I will ever learn. His most well known
book is "The Taylorcraft Story".
He is currently building a Model A Pietenpol, he has the fuselage built and
is nearly ready to run the engine. I've seen it in his garage, and the work
he does is great. I can't wait to see the finished product, I'm sure it
will be one of the nicest around. I hope to fly chase on its first flight.
Steve Ruse
Norman, OK
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steve Ruse" <steve(at)wotelectronics.com>
Subject: Bartlesville Biplane Expo - Bartlesville, OK - June 1st
& 2nd
Date: May 15, 2007
I'm going to try to make it, I'm planning on heading up late Friday
afternoon and returning late Saturday. Not sure where I'll stay yet, I may
camp on-field if possible. The website says there are "limited bathing
facilities on the airport". I'm still trying to figure out what "limited
bathing facilities are".
Is anyone else planning on going? Chuck G.? Jim M.? Jim, I hope you can
make it, I feel like I've known you for a couple of years now, and we've
never even met!
http://www.biplaneexpo.com/
Steve Ruse
Norman, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike King" <mikek120(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Bartlesville Biplane Expo - Bartlesville, OK - June
1st & 2nd
Date: May 16, 2007
Where is Bartlesville? I am just a few miles south of
the Oklahoma border on I-35.
Mike King
GN-1
77MK
Ponder, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Ruse
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2007 9:40 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Bartlesville Biplane Expo - Bartlesville, OK
- June 1st & 2nd
I'm going to try to make it, I'm planning on heading up late Friday
afternoon and returning late Saturday. Not sure where I'll stay yet, I
may camp on-field if possible. The website says there are "limited
bathing facilities on the airport". I'm still trying to figure out what
"limited bathing facilities are".
Is anyone else planning on going? Chuck G.? Jim M.? Jim, I hope you
can make it, I feel like I've known you for a couple of years now, and
we've never even met!
http://www.biplaneexpo.com/
Steve Ruse
Norman, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Douwe Blumberg" <douweblumberg(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: tailwheel
Date: May 16, 2007
Hi guys,
What is the lightest tailwheel you have or have seen or can think of
that would stand up to this application?
Douwe
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "gcardinal" <gcardinal(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: tailwheel
Date: May 16, 2007
Hi Douwe,
How about a rollerblade wheel?
Another option would be an idler roller from a clothes dryer. The
rollers in a Sears / Kenmore dryer appear to be fairly stout.
Greg C.
----- Original Message -----
From: Douwe Blumberg
To: pietenpolgroup
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 4:59 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: tailwheel
Hi guys,
What is the lightest tailwheel you have or have seen or can think of
that would stand up to this application?
Douwe
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 16, 2007
From: Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: tailwheel
No, I don't think I would use that but a journal bearinged
Speed Queen/Huebsch drier rear drum roller may be
strong enough or possibly the Maytag one. By the way,
Maytag no longer exists as such. They've been bought
by Whirlpool ( Inglis ).
----- Original Message -----
From: gcardinal
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 4:01 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: tailwheel
Hi Douwe,
How about a rollerblade wheel?
Another option would be an idler roller from a clothes dryer. The
rollers in a Sears / Kenmore dryer appear to be fairly stout.
Greg C.
----- Original Message -----
From: Douwe Blumberg
To: pietenpolgroup
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 4:59 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: tailwheel
Hi guys,
What is the lightest tailwheel you have or have seen or can think of
that would stand up to this application?
Douwe
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.mat
ronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
5/16/2007 6:05 PM
________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Skip Gadd" <skipgadd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: tailwheel
Date: May 17, 2007
Several years ago I saw hockey puck drilled out and set up as a tailwheel. It was
in the Smith/Karner, Pietenpol hangar at Brodhead. It was on one of the Sky
Scout projects there. Don't think ether project has flown yet.
Skip
----- Original Message -----
From: Douwe Blumberg
Sent: 5/16/2007 6:05:31 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: tailwheel
Hi guys,
What is the lightest tailwheel you have or have seen or can think of that would
stand up to this application?
Douwe
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: May 17, 2007
From: "KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP" <kmheidecpo(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: N-number assistance.........
Members of the list:
I recently logged onto the FAA's inquiry web page to research an N-number I would
like to have on my Pietenpol. The n-number is 1963K. Upon further searching.....it
comes back:
This aircraft's registration status may not be suitable for operation.
Please contact the Aircraft Registration Branch at 1-866-762-9434 for additional
information.
Upon further research I find this number registered to this company:
---------------------------------
N1963K is Assigned
Assigned/Registered Aircraft
--> Aircraft Description
Serial Number 4690 Type Registration Corporation
Manufacturer Name LUSCOMBE Certificate Issue Date None Model
8A Status Revoked Type Aircraft Fixed Wing Single-Engine
Type Engine Reciprocating Pending Number Change None Dealer No
Date Change Authorized None Mode S Code 50300500 MFR Year
1947 Fractional Owner NO
---------------------------------
Registered Owner
Name INDEPENDENT DRILLING CO Street 1114 INSUROMEDIC City