Alternatively, the 612 might be better for higher hp Piets.  With 100 hp or more
      the pilot gets a faster climb in any event, and the 612 would have less drag
      and allow a faster cruising speed than the 613.5.  And as you and Mr. Riblett
      have reported, there are no negatives associated with the 612 when compared to
      BP's original "FC-10" airfoil. (We may not know that much about the pitching
      moment of the 613.5 as yet.)  
      
      Do you agree with this discussion of the 613.5 vs. the 612?  And with a 612 foir
      higher hp Piets?  Is this the right way//a right way to think of the choices?
      
      
      Tim in central TX
      
      -----Original Message-----
      >From: Pieti Lowell <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com>
      >Sent: Aug 9, 2008 11:38 AM
      >To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      >Subject: Pietenpol-List: Riblett's Info
      >
      >
      >Riblett's letter to Pieti Lowell, ref air foils for a Pietenpol
      >
      >
      >Read this topic online here:
      >
      >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197525#197525
      >
      >
      >Attachments: 
      >
      >http://forums.matronics.com//files/riblett_p2_118.jpg
      >http://forums.matronics.com//files/riblett_p1_976.jpg
      >
      >
      
      
      ________________________________  Message 8  _____________________________________
      
      
Subject: 
Re: Riblett's Info
From: 
"Pieti Lowell" <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com>
      
      
      Tim , as per usual, you are on track, Riblitt's better design even over the 612
      is the 613.5, As you know it is easy to see the difference . But you can also
      carry a larger fuel tank in the 613.5.
      Lowell
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197633#197633
      
      
      ________________________________  Message 9  _____________________________________
      
      
From: 
jeremy bramall <outofthebox50(at)yahoo.com>
      Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Riblett's Info
      
      Alright, so if you had 90hp, not heavy or light, and wanted better stol characteristics,
      which would you choose?
         
        Jeremy in Dallas
      
      Tim Willis  wrote: 
      
      Lowell,
      
      Thanks for posting this. Some may not know of your experience with various airfoils.
      Of course, you are one of the few (maybe the only one) who has changed wings
      on the same plane with the same engine,and changed engines with the same
      wing and plane, and then changed both. You can report empirical data on the effect
      of each of the changes. 
      
      I think, based on talking with you about this earlier this year, and our more recent
      discussions at Brodhead, many builders should use either a Riblett GA30U-612
      or a GA30U-613.5 instead of BP's airfoil. I believe you agree with that evaluation
      as a good decision for all but Piet purists. (Room for all instide the
      tent.) And we have discussed the merits of both these Riblett airfoils. 
      
      I'd like to lay out some impressions of the 613.5, and see if you will confirm
      or change this post, for the benefit of others considering these choices. I'll
      ask you to pardon me in advance,if I am misinterpreting any of our discussions,
      or if I have crossed them up with similar discussions with Bill Rewey or Roman
      Bukolt. 
      
      As you know, and as we have discussed, the 613.5 is "fatter" than the other airfoils.
      You and I have discussed its comparative merits. 
      
      For the benefit of others on the board, the 613.5 has more loft on the Y-axis and
      a bigger radius, resulting in more camber. Otherwise it looks much like the
      NACA 2412 or 4412 and the Riblett 612, all of them peaking "Y" at 30 percent
      of the "X" (chord). All of these have better laminarity than BP's airfoil in the
      early part of the airfoil, before the airflow "goes turbulent." (All are characterized
      as "turbulent airfoils," but some are more turbulent than others.)
      
      The Riblett GA30U-613.5 seems to me a better choice for a Piet with less powerful
      engines, such as most Model A's (not your fuel-injected baby) or Continental
      A-65s. I think you have agreed with this opinion, perhaps even postulated it
      yourself. 
      
      The 613.5 would give the Piet builder a faster climb, better safe payload on hot
      days, etc. A wing built with it would weigh a little more than one using a 612
      airfoil-- how much more depending upon whether the builder uses filler blocks
      at the top of each spar or a full-height built-up ply and wood spar. 
      
      Alternatively, the 612 might be better for higher hp Piets. With 100 hp or more
      the pilot gets a faster climb in any event, and the 612 would have less drag
      and allow a faster cruising speed than the 613.5. And as you and Mr. Riblett have
      reported, there are no negatives associated with the 612 when compared to
      BP's original "FC-10" airfoil. (We may not know that much about the pitching moment
      of the 613.5 as yet.) 
      
      Do you agree with this discussion of the 613.5 vs. the 612? And with a 612 foir
      higher hp Piets? Is this the right way//a right way to think of the choices?
      
      
      Tim in central TX
      
      -----Original Message-----
      >From: Pieti Lowell 
      >Sent: Aug 9, 2008 11:38 AM
      >To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      >Subject: Pietenpol-List: Riblett's Info
      >
      >
      >Riblett's letter to Pieti Lowell, ref air foils for a Pietenpol
      >
      >
      >Read this topic online here:
      >
      >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197525#197525
      >
      >
      >Attachments: 
      >
      >http://forums.matronics.com//files/riblett_p2_118.jpg
      >http://forums.matronics.com//files/riblett_p1_976.jpg
      >
      >
      
      
             
      
      ________________________________  Message 10  ____________________________________
      
      
      From: shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com>
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: Delaware, Ohio Fly-In
      
      
      Hello Ohio Area-Pieters,- Just wondering if any Ohio Piets planned on a
      ttending the Delaware, Ohio fly-in on Aug 16, 17.- If any one plans on go
      ing send me an e-mail, and they can stop by Chapman Field in Centerburg Ohi
      o for free donuts and coffee before we fly over to Delaware, ( before 9AM).
      - Skipp G., Mike C., And Don Emch, let me know if you want to go I will w
      ait for you and we can make a group arrival on Saturday Morning.- Dad say
      s they are wanting fly-bys, so if you want to we can do some in-trail, or l
      oose formation fly-bys low, and slow.
      -
      Shad=0A=0A=0A      
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 10, 2008
From: 
Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 
Re: Riblett's Info
      
      
      Jeremy,
      
      On a Pietenpol with 90hp, seeking more STOL characteristics, I would choose the
      Riblett GA30U-613.5.  On a much faster plane, such as a Zenith 601 or a KR-2,
      the best choice would be another airfoil, and might be a NACA 4412.  You are
      seeking fast cruise in the latter case, not STOL.
      
      Moreover, on your Piet, as Lowell points out, you can put more gas in the wing
      tank space with the 613.5.  Go nuts, widen the center wing to 36-40 inches, and
      add a "Tiger Moth bulge" as well, and you would really increase the tank capacity.
      And at the perfect spot, right at the CG.  Your arse would never endure
      the range you might thus achieve.  
      
      Tim in central TX
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      >From: jeremy bramall <outofthebox50(at)yahoo.com>
      >Sent: Aug 9, 2008 10:17 PM
      >To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      >Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Riblett's Info
      >
      >Alright, so if you had 90hp, not heavy or light, and wanted better stol characteristics,
      which would you choose?
      >   
      >  Jeremy in Dallas
      >
      >Tim Willis  wrote: 
      >
      >Lowell,
      >
      >Thanks for posting this. Some may not know of your experience with various airfoils.
      Of course, you are one of the few (maybe the only one) who has changed
      wings on the same plane with the same engine,and changed engines with the same
      wing and plane, and then changed both. You can report empirical data on the effect
      of each of the changes. 
      >
      >I think, based on talking with you about this earlier this year, and our more
      recent discussions at Brodhead, many builders should use either a Riblett GA30U-612
      or a GA30U-613.5 instead of BP's airfoil. I believe you agree with that
      evaluation as a good decision for all but Piet purists. (Room for all instide
      the tent.) And we have discussed the merits of both these Riblett airfoils. 
      >
      >I'd like to lay out some impressions of the 613.5, and see if you will confirm
      or change this post, for the benefit of others considering these choices. I'll
      ask you to pardon me in advance,if I am misinterpreting any of our discussions,
      or if I have crossed them up with similar discussions with Bill Rewey or Roman
      Bukolt. 
      >
      >As you know, and as we have discussed, the 613.5 is "fatter" than the other airfoils.
      You and I have discussed its comparative merits. 
      >
      >For the benefit of others on the board, the 613.5 has more loft on the Y-axis
      and a bigger radius, resulting in more camber. Otherwise it looks much like the
      NACA 2412 or 4412 and the Riblett 612, all of them peaking "Y" at 30 percent
      of the "X" (chord). All of these have better laminarity than BP's airfoil in
      the early part of the airfoil, before the airflow "goes turbulent." (All are characterized
      as "turbulent airfoils," but some are more turbulent than others.)
      >
      >The Riblett GA30U-613.5 seems to me a better choice for a Piet with less powerful
      engines, such as most Model A's (not your fuel-injected baby) or Continental
      A-65s. I think you have agreed with this opinion, perhaps even postulated it
      yourself. 
      >
      >The 613.5 would give the Piet builder a faster climb, better safe payload on hot
      days, etc. A wing built with it would weigh a little more than one using a
      612 airfoil-- how much more depending upon whether the builder uses filler blocks
      at the top of each spar or a full-height built-up ply and wood spar. 
      >
      >Alternatively, the 612 might be better for higher hp Piets. With 100 hp or more
      the pilot gets a faster climb in any event, and the 612 would have less drag
      and allow a faster cruising speed than the 613.5. And as you and Mr. Riblett
      have reported, there are no negatives associated with the 612 when compared to
      BP's original "FC-10" airfoil. (We may not know that much about the pitching
      moment of the 613.5 as yet.) 
      >
      >Do you agree with this discussion of the 613.5 vs. the 612? And with a 612 foir
      higher hp Piets? Is this the right way//a right way to think of the choices?
      
      >
      >Tim in central TX
      >
      >-----Original Message-----
      >>From: Pieti Lowell 
      >>Sent: Aug 9, 2008 11:38 AM
      >>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      >>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Riblett's Info
      >>
      >>
      >>Riblett's letter to Pieti Lowell, ref air foils for a Pietenpol
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>Read this topic online here:
      >>
      >>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197525#197525
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>Attachments: 
      >>
      >>http://forums.matronics.com//files/riblett_p2_118.jpg
      >>http://forums.matronics.com//files/riblett_p1_976.jpg
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >
      >
      >       
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
Piet Roster
Date: 
Aug 10, 2008
      
      
      Dick;
      
      There is a very useful and complete listing of Piets and GN-1s that is published
      by Doc and Dee Mosher, editors of the BPA Newsletter.  It is not available online.
      The booklet lists the airplanes in several different formats for easy
      searching.
      
      You can get one of these by contacting Doc.  Complete info is here: http://www.pietenpols.org/ , and while you're at it be sure to sign up for a subscription to the newsletter!
      
      Oscar Zuniga
      Air Camper NX41CC
      San Antonio, TX
      mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
      website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
airlion(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: 
wing leding edge
Date: 
Aug 10, 2008
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 10, 2008
From: 
Owen Davies <owen5819(at)comcast.net>
Subject: 
Re: Riblett's Info
      
      
      Tim Willis wrote:
      > On a Pietenpol with 90hp, seeking more STOL characteristics, I would choose the
      Riblett GA30U-613.5.  On a much faster plane, such as a Zenith 601 or a KR-2,
      the best choice would be another airfoil, and might be a NACA 4412.
      It's not really Piet-related, but you bring up something that has 
      interested me for some time. A STOL KR-2 could be a really interesting 
      sport aircraft. I wonder whether the GA30U-613.5 would be suitable for 
      such an application? For the sake of argument, picture a Corvair on the 
      nose and stall and top speeds just within the LSA limit.
      
      Owen
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
another day of Pietenpoling
Date: 
Aug 10, 2008
      
      
      Since the list has once again quieted down, I thought I'd just mention that I had another fine time in my Piet yesterday.  Weather was typical hot August, wind was the usual slight x-wind out of the southeast, and the objective was Cannon Field, home of the International Liaison Pilot and Aircraft Association here in San Antonio ( http://www.centercomp.com/ILPA/ ).  It's 25 statute miles from my home field, as the crow flies and if I don't violate the controlled airspace on the way.
      
      I never made it to Cannon.  Got distracted with the many sights to see, the air
      was very nice (not too bumpy), everything is still green from the rains of a
      few weeks ago, and I needed to practice laying down a nice swath of smoke on a
      couple of fields along the way.  It's easy if you pick fields with the rows lined
      up with the wind, but trickier if they are cross wind or skewed.  I don't
      have smoke yet but a guy has to practice ;o)
      
      The Piet was in top flying form, performance was great, so were my landings.  Poor
      Steve Dortch was down on the ground by his hangar, trying his level best to
      make his old Suburban turn from a toad into a princess by the application of
      a few meager coats of red paint, but between getting all wrapped up in blue masking
      tape and fighting the heat and breeze, I think he and his painting buddies
      got more paint on them than on the Suburban.  By the way, the guy wielding
      the spray gun (mostly) was Steve Jones, editor of the EAA Chapter 35 newsletter
      that was nominated for one of the top five awards at Oshkosh for "best chapter
      newsletter".  He and his wife Freda are our next-hangar-neighbors and are
      great folks.  Not sure how the awards ended up but getting into the top five at
      Oshkosh is plenty to be proud about.
      
      Oscar Zuniga
      Air Camper NX41CC
      San Antonio, TX
      mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
      website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
<catdesigns(at)att.net>
Subject: 
Re: Riblett's Info
Date: 
Aug 10, 2008
      
      
      Tim and/or Lowell
      
      How did you decide where is the CG is located and what angle of attack to 
      use when switching to a 613.5 airfoil?
      
      Chris Tracy
      Sacramento, Ca
      Website at http://www.WestCoastPiet.com
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Tim Willis" <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net>
      Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2008 4:42 PM
      Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Riblett's Info
      
      
      > 
      >
      > Lowell,
      >
      > Thanks for posting this.  Some may not know of your experience with 
      > various airfoils.  Of course, you are one of the few (maybe the only one) 
      > who has changed wings on the same plane with the same engine,and changed 
      > engines with the same wing and plane, and then changed both.  You can 
      > report empirical data on the effect of each of the changes.
      >
      > I think, based on talking with you about this earlier this year, and our 
      > more recent discussions at Brodhead, many builders should use either a 
      > Riblett GA30U-612 or a GA30U-613.5 instead of BP's airfoil.  I believe you 
      > agree with that evaluation as a good decision for all but Piet purists. 
      > (Room for all instide the tent.) And we have discussed the merits of both 
      > these Riblett airfoils.
      >
      > I'd like to lay out some impressions of the 613.5, and see if you will 
      > confirm or change this post, for the benefit of others considering these 
      > choices. I'll ask you to pardon me in advance,if I am misinterpreting any 
      > of our discussions, or if I have crossed them up with similar discussions 
      > with Bill Rewey or Roman Bukolt.
      >
      > As you know, and as we have discussed, the 613.5 is "fatter" than the 
      > other airfoils.  You and I have discussed its comparative merits.
      >
      > For the benefit of others on the board, the 613.5 has more loft on the 
      > Y-axis and a bigger radius, resulting in more camber.  Otherwise it looks 
      > much like the NACA 2412 or 4412 and the Riblett 612, all of them peaking 
      > "Y" at 30 percent of the "X" (chord). All of these have better laminarity 
      > than BP's airfoil in the early part of the airfoil, before the airflow 
      > "goes turbulent."  (All are characterized as "turbulent airfoils," but 
      > some are more turbulent than others.)
      >
      > The Riblett GA30U-613.5 seems to me a better choice for a Piet with less 
      > powerful engines, such as most Model A's (not your fuel-injected baby) or 
      > Continental A-65s.  I think you have agreed with this opinion, perhaps 
      > even postulated it yourself.
      >
      > The 613.5 would give the Piet builder a faster climb, better safe payload 
      > on hot days, etc.  A wing built with it would weigh a little more than one 
      > using a 612 airfoil-- how much more depending upon whether the builder 
      > uses filler blocks at the top of each spar or a full-height built-up ply 
      > and wood spar.
      >
      > Alternatively, the 612 might be better for higher hp Piets.  With 100 hp 
      > or more the pilot gets a faster climb in any event, and the 612 would have 
      > less drag and allow a faster cruising speed than the 613.5.  And as you 
      > and Mr. Riblett have reported, there are no negatives associated with the 
      > 612 when compared to BP's original "FC-10" airfoil. (We may not know that 
      > much about the pitching moment of the 613.5 as yet.)
      >
      > Do you agree with this discussion of the 613.5 vs. the 612?  And with a 
      > 612 foir higher hp Piets?  Is this the right way//a right way to think of 
      > the choices?
      >
      > Tim in central TX
      >
      > -----Original Message-----
      >>From: Pieti Lowell <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com>
      >>Sent: Aug 9, 2008 11:38 AM
      >>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      >>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Riblett's Info
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>Riblett's letter to Pieti Lowell, ref air foils for a Pietenpol
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>Read this topic online here:
      >>
      >>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197525#197525
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>Attachments:
      >>
      >>http://forums.matronics.com//files/riblett_p2_118.jpg
      >>http://forums.matronics.com//files/riblett_p1_976.jpg
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Piet Roster
Date: 
Aug 10, 2008
From: 
"Jack T. Textor" <jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com>
      
      
      Dick,
      Go to Glenn Thomas's very nice site www.flyingwood.com.
      Jack
      www.textors.com
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 10, 2008
From: 
Owen Davies <owen5819(at)comcast.net>
Subject: 
Re: Riblett's Info
      
      
      Tim Willis wrote:
      > As I recall, Mark Langford has documented EVERYTHING about his work on his Corvair-equipped
      KR-2.  He would be the guy to ask about the Riblett airfoil.
      Thanks, Tim. I know of Mark's plane, but did not think of him for the 
      Riblett airfoil. My impression was that he was trying to get high-end 
      performance out of his plane, while I am trying to limit the high end 
      and extend the bottom end just enough to make sure of being within the 
      LSA stall requirement.
      
      Or would be, if this were anything more than a thought exercise. A Piet 
      is still my first priority--though it could wind up having the wing on 
      the bottom.
      
      Owen
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Riblett's Info
From: 
outofthebox50(at)yahoo.com
Date: 
Aug 10, 2008
      
      
      I have spent some time researching the KR-2S.  It might be our next build.  If
      you get the stall speed down, the builder can set his own VNE right?
      
      Jeremy in Dallas
      ------Original Message------
      From: Owen Davies
      Sender: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
      ReplyTo: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      Sent: Aug 10, 2008 2:40 PM
      Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Riblett's Info
      
      
      Tim Willis wrote:
      > On a Pietenpol with 90hp, seeking more STOL characteristics, I would choose the
      Riblett GA30U-613.5.  On a much faster plane, such as a Zenith 601 or a KR-2,
      the best choice would be another airfoil, and might be a NACA 4412.
      It's not really Piet-related, but you bring up something that has 
      interested me for some time. A STOL KR-2 could be a really interesting 
      sport aircraft. I wonder whether the GA30U-613.5 would be suitable for 
      such an application? For the sake of argument, picture a Corvair on the 
      nose and stall and top speeds just within the LSA limit.
      
      Owen
      
      
      Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 10, 2008
From: 
Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 
Re: Riblett's Info
      
      
      Good question.  Lowell can answer this better than I, for it's mostly theory for
      me.  But I'll try:
      
      Most airfoils have far less pitching moment than the Piet.  The Piet's reverse
      pitching moment lets you move the CG back as far as 25 percent back on the airfoil,
      as you likely know.  Most airfoils are closer to the 20 percent mark (the
      front limit on Piet's range).  Accordingly, a BIG assumption might be to move
      the CG froward a bit, into the 22-20 percent of the chord range when using the
      Riblett airfoils.  
      
      Aren't you addressing the "angle of incidence," the angle of the chord of the wing
      to the airplane's axis.  This is the 2 degrees the airfoil is tilted up above
      the upper longeron (exactly the 1 inch recommended taller front cabane on
      the Piet) when using BP's airfoil.  Piper Cubs have about this same 2 degrees
      with another airfoil (Clark Y?), and a degree or two is common, I think, on Taylorcraft,
      Aeroncas, and the like.  (Someone else should confirm this.)  So I'd
      start there with a Riblett 613.5, too.  The advantage of a Piet is that you
      can change it some by cutting the cabanes-- start with them taller than you might
      want, then whittle front or back down slightly and test again.
      
      However, the word "test" is operative.  Recall that when you change the design,
      you (or someone) has just become a test pilot.
      
      Lowell actually changed his wing, so he is the "go to guy" on this.  Roman Bukolt
      has, or will soon have, a Riblett 612 on his Piet, and he should be another
      excellent source of information on this.   
      
      Tim in central TX
      
      -----Original Message-----
      >From: catdesigns(at)att.net
      >Sent: Aug 10, 2008 3:14 PM
      >To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      >Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Riblett's Info
      >
      >
      >Tim and/or Lowell
      >
      >How did you decide where is the CG is located and what angle of attack to 
      >use when switching to a 613.5 airfoil?
      >
      >Chris Tracy
      >Sacramento, Ca
      >Website at http://www.WestCoastPiet.com
      >
      >
      >----- Original Message ----- 
      >From: "Tim Willis" <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net>
      >To: 
      >Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2008 4:42 PM
      >Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Riblett's Info
      >
      >
      >> 
      >>
      >> Lowell,
      >>
      >> Thanks for posting this.  Some may not know of your experience with 
      >> various airfoils.  Of course, you are one of the few (maybe the only one) 
      >> who has changed wings on the same plane with the same engine,and changed 
      >> engines with the same wing and plane, and then changed both.  You can 
      >> report empirical data on the effect of each of the changes.
      >>
      >> I think, based on talking with you about this earlier this year, and our 
      >> more recent discussions at Brodhead, many builders should use either a 
      >> Riblett GA30U-612 or a GA30U-613.5 instead of BP's airfoil.  I believe you 
      >> agree with that evaluation as a good decision for all but Piet purists. 
      >> (Room for all instide the tent.) And we have discussed the merits of both 
      >> these Riblett airfoils.
      >>
      >> I'd like to lay out some impressions of the 613.5, and see if you will 
      >> confirm or change this post, for the benefit of others considering these 
      >> choices. I'll ask you to pardon me in advance,if I am misinterpreting any 
      >> of our discussions, or if I have crossed them up with similar discussions 
      >> with Bill Rewey or Roman Bukolt.
      >>
      >> As you know, and as we have discussed, the 613.5 is "fatter" than the 
      >> other airfoils.  You and I have discussed its comparative merits.
      >>
      >> For the benefit of others on the board, the 613.5 has more loft on the 
      >> Y-axis and a bigger radius, resulting in more camber.  Otherwise it looks 
      >> much like the NACA 2412 or 4412 and the Riblett 612, all of them peaking 
      >> "Y" at 30 percent of the "X" (chord). All of these have better laminarity 
      >> than BP's airfoil in the early part of the airfoil, before the airflow 
      >> "goes turbulent."  (All are characterized as "turbulent airfoils," but 
      >> some are more turbulent than others.)
      >>
      >> The Riblett GA30U-613.5 seems to me a better choice for a Piet with less 
      >> powerful engines, such as most Model A's (not your fuel-injected baby) or 
      >> Continental A-65s.  I think you have agreed with this opinion, perhaps 
      >> even postulated it yourself.
      >>
      >> The 613.5 would give the Piet builder a faster climb, better safe payload 
      >> on hot days, etc.  A wing built with it would weigh a little more than one 
      >> using a 612 airfoil-- how much more depending upon whether the builder 
      >> uses filler blocks at the top of each spar or a full-height built-up ply 
      >> and wood spar.
      >>
      >> Alternatively, the 612 might be better for higher hp Piets.  With 100 hp 
      >> or more the pilot gets a faster climb in any event, and the 612 would have 
      >> less drag and allow a faster cruising speed than the 613.5.  And as you 
      >> and Mr. Riblett have reported, there are no negatives associated with the 
      >> 612 when compared to BP's original "FC-10" airfoil. (We may not know that 
      >> much about the pitching moment of the 613.5 as yet.)
      >>
      >> Do you agree with this discussion of the 613.5 vs. the 612?  And with a 
      >> 612 foir higher hp Piets?  Is this the right way//a right way to think of 
      >> the choices?
      >>
      >> Tim in central TX
      >>
      >> -----Original Message-----
      >>>From: Pieti Lowell <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com>
      >>>Sent: Aug 9, 2008 11:38 AM
      >>>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      >>>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Riblett's Info
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>Riblett's letter to Pieti Lowell, ref air foils for a Pietenpol
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>Read this topic online here:
      >>>
      >>>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=197525#197525
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>Attachments:
      >>>
      >>>http://forums.matronics.com//files/riblett_p2_118.jpg
      >>>http://forums.matronics.com//files/riblett_p1_976.jpg
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >> 
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 10, 2008
From: 
Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 
Re: Riblett's Info
      
      
      I recall Oscar and someone else posting such postulates and some calculations.
      This is altogether beyond my ken.  IT might be a better discussion on the KR-2
      board, but as Owen states about Mark L., most of those guys are trying to hit
      200mph, not low and slow.
      Tim in central TX
      
      -----Original Message-----
      >From: outofthebox50(at)yahoo.com
      >Sent: Aug 10, 2008 3:32 PM
      >To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      >Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Riblett's Info
      >
      >
      >I have spent some time researching the KR-2S.  It might be our next build.  If
      you get the stall speed down, the builder can set his own VNE right?
      >
      >Jeremy in Dallas
      >------Original Message------
      >From: Owen Davies
      >Sender: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
      >To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      >ReplyTo: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      >Sent: Aug 10, 2008 2:40 PM
      >Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Riblett's Info
      >
      >
      >Tim Willis wrote:
      >> On a Pietenpol with 90hp, seeking more STOL characteristics, I would choose
      the Riblett GA30U-613.5.  On a much faster plane, such as a Zenith 601 or a KR-2,
      the best choice would be another airfoil, and might be a NACA 4412.
      >It's not really Piet-related, but you bring up something that has 
      >interested me for some time. A STOL KR-2 could be a really interesting 
      >sport aircraft. I wonder whether the GA30U-613.5 would be suitable for 
      >such an application? For the sake of argument, picture a Corvair on the 
      >nose and stall and top speeds just within the LSA limit.
      >
      >Owen
      >
      >
      >Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 10, 2008
From: 
Owen Davies <owen5819(at)comcast.net>
Subject: 
Re: Riblett's Info
      
      
      outofthebox50(at)yahoo.com wrote:
      > If you get the stall speed down, the builder can set his own VNE right?
      I'm not sure how that works. I believe the phrase "prop-limited" has 
      some value. Ditto throttle stops. Yet, I'd hate to build a fast 
      airplane, hoping they would trust me to hold it under my stated VNE. 
      Could waste a lot of time and money that way.
      
      Owen
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Michael Silvius" <silvius(at)gwi.net>
Subject: 
Re: Riblett's Info
Date: 
Aug 10, 2008
      
      
      Owen:
      
      If a low wing wood built LSA is what you are loking for:
      http://www.menestrel.org.uk/
      
      Like the Jodel D18 but without the coplexity of the bent wing
      
      Michael in Maine
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Owen Davies" <owen5819(at)comcast.net>
      > Thanks, Tim. I know of Mark's plane, but did not think of him for the 
      > Riblett airfoil. My impression was that he was trying to get high-end 
      > performance out of his plane, while I am trying to limit the high end 
      > and extend the bottom end just enough to make sure of being within the 
      > LSA stall requirement.
      > 
      > Or would be, if this were anything more than a thought exercise. A Piet 
      > is still my first priority--though it could wind up having the wing on 
      > the bottom.
      > 
      > Owen
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 10, 2008
From: 
Owen Davies <owen5819(at)comcast.net>
Subject: 
Re: Riblett's Info
      
      
      Michael Silvius wrote:
      > If a low wing wood built LSA is what you are loking for:
      > http://www.menestrel.org.uk/
      >
      > Like the Jodel D18 but without the coplexity of the bent wing
      It's not that I am specifically looking for a low-wing airplane, nor 
      even necessarily wood construction. I plan to build my Piet with the 
      steel-tube fuselage, for example. (This does feel like sacrilege, even 
      though the master designed it himself, but I really enjoy welding and it 
      will be good practice for any future projects, which almost surely will 
      be steel tube.) It's just that the KR-2 seems like such a natural place 
      to begin for a small, cheap, two-place LSA.
      
      That Menestrel really is a pretty plane, though. It reminds me a lot of 
      the Emeraude, a plane I've always loved. And the construction looks 
      pretty simple.
      
      The builders' group doesn't seem to have any U.S. members, though.
      
      Thanks for pointing it out.
      
      Owen
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Robert Gow" <rgow(at)avionicsdesign.ca>
Subject: 
rim width
Date: 
Aug 11, 2008
      
      
      On the subject of rims and wheels, where do I get a wide enough (4 inch or
      so) hub?  And can you get a hub with internal drum brakes?
      
      Bob
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Skip Gadd
      Sent: August 8, 2008 4:04 PM
      Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: rim width
      
      
      Douwe,
      Mine are 2.25", tires are 26" OD. Got three rims from motorcycle graveyard,
      all the same but had different hubs.
      Skip
      
      
      > [Original Message]
      > From: Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg(at)earthlink.net>
      > To: pietenpolgroup 
      > Date: 8/8/2008 9:12:40 AM
      > Subject: Pietenpol-List: rim width
      >
      
      >
      > Hey,
      >
      > Building my third set of wheels for this bugger, and Buchannans wants to
      > know what width rim I want to use.  I am going with 21" modern alloy
      > motorcycle rims, and sounds like there are a few options.  Does anyone
      > remember the width of theirs?
      >
      > Douwe
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 11, 2008
From: 
Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: 
From print to jig...how?
      
      I received my Riblett print today. For those who may not know, it is a full size
      drawing like the full size Pietenpol rib print. How did you guys get the print
      transferred to the wood base on you rib jigs? I know someone sandwiched the
      print under Plexiglas. Any suggestions welcomed.
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Kip and Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
Date: 
Aug 11, 2008
      
      Mike,
      
      Secure your drawing to your jig board.  Take a sharp awl, and punch a  
      hole through the paper every 1/2 inch or so. Take up the drawing and  
      connect the dots.
      
      Kip Gardner
      
      On Aug 11, 2008, at 6:33 PM, Michael Perez wrote:
      
      > I received my Riblett print today. For those who may not know, it  
      > is a full size drawing like the full size Pietenpol rib print. How  
      > did you guys get the print transferred to the wood base on you rib  
      > jigs? I know someone sandwiched the print under Plexiglas. Any  
      > suggestions welcomed.
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net>
Subject: 
From print to jig...how?
Date: 
Aug 11, 2008
      
      I stretched 4mil clear visqueen over mine. Hold downs and positioners are
      fastened thru the visqueen and the plan and into the backup board. 11 ribs
      done and can still see all the lines very clearly, although it wouldn't
      matter as the positioners do their jobs.
      
      
      Gary Boothe
      
      Cool, Ca.
      
      Pietenpol
      
      WW Corvair Conversion
      
      Tail done, working on fuselage
      
      (11 ribs down.)
      
        _____  
      
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
      Perez
      Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 3:34 PM
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: From print to jig...how?
      
      
      I received my Riblett print today. For those who may not know, it is a full
      size drawing like the full size Pietenpol rib print. How did you guys get
      the print transferred to the wood base on you rib jigs? I know someone
      sandwiched the print under Plexiglas. Any suggestions welcomed.
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 11, 2008
From: 
Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
      
      
      My mistake, what I-am asking is: is there a way to easily transfer the pl
      an onto the jig, and keep the original plan intact. I have heard how to sim
      ply make a copy is not always good, wondering if there is any other way. Th
      e making holes and connecting the dots is a way I haven't thought of. I gue
      ss once the jig is made and proven, we don't need the plan, but I would lik
      e to try and salvage mine.
      -
      It seems the easiest is to tape it down, cover with plastic, build. 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Kip and Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
Date: 
Aug 11, 2008
      
      Mike,
      
      It does minimal damage to the plan.   Lay out the jig, put the plan  
      away, no problem.
      
      Kip Gardner
      
      
      On Aug 11, 2008, at 8:45 PM, Michael Perez wrote:
      
      >
      > My mistake, what I am asking is: is there a way to easily transfer  
      > the plan onto the jig, and keep the original plan intact. I have  
      > heard how to simply make a copy is not always good, wondering if  
      > there is any other way. The making holes and connecting the dots is  
      > a way I haven't thought of. I guess once the jig is made and  
      > proven, we don't need the plan, but I would like to try and salvage  
      > mine.
      >
      > It seems the easiest is to tape it down, cover with plastic, build.
      >
      > _- 
      > ======================== 
      > 3D=======================3 
      > D============
      > _- 
      > ======================== 
      > 3D=======================3 
      > D============
      > _- 
      > ======================== 
      > 3D=======================3 
      > D============
      > _- 
      > ======================== 
      > 3D=======================3 
      > D============
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 11, 2008
From: 
"KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP" <kmheidecpo(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
      
      
      Michael.....Michael....Michael
      
      
      Take it to Kinko's...oops I mean FedEx and have them laminate a copy for you...couple
      of buck and they can do it while you wait. This way you still have your
      original and the laminated copy works great to keep the glue from sticking to
      the table. Then...create your jig on top of the lamination! If you question your
      glue sticking to the lamination....do a small test sample and the next day
      see if it pops off!
      
      No stinking wax paper here baby.....tee-hee-hee...
      
      
      Kenneth M. Heide, BA, CPO, FAAOP         
      
      
      --- On Mon, 8/11/08, Michael Perez  wrote:
      
      > From: Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net>
      > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: From print to jig...how?
      > To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      > Date: Monday, August 11, 2008, 7:45 PM
      > My mistake, what Iam asking is: is there a way to easily
      > transfer the plan onto the jig, and keep the original plan
      > intact. I have heard how to simply make a copy is not always
      > good, wondering if there is any other way. The making holes
      > and connecting the dots is a way I haven't thought of. I
      > guess once the jig is made and proven, we don't need the
      > plan, but I would like to try and salvage mine.
      > 
      > It seems the easiest is to tape it down, cover with
      > plastic, build.
      
      
            
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 12, 2008
From: 
Jim <jimboyer(at)hughes.net>
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
      
      
      Gary, 
      Are you using the Riblett airfoil on your Piet? I got a copy of it from Roman Bulthol
      (spelling) at Brodhead. 
      I won't put my pictures up from Brodhead as Bill Church did such a great job; but
      it was great being there and getting to talk to other builders like Rich Navratil,
      Greg Cardinal, Gary and Shad Bell, Bill Rewery, etc. It was neat to be
      able to see their planes and ask them why they did what they did.
      One of the best forums ever was a group of six guys from Atlanta who are building
      six Piets together. They get together every Monday night, one Saturday a month,
      and one full six day week every summer. They are just about ready to cover
      all six Piets. Once they are all done and signed off for flight; they will put
      all six serial numbers in a hat and have a drawing. Until then no one knows
      which airplane will be theirs. They did a great job of talking about the whole
      project and showing a great slide show as they did their presentation.
      14 Piets were at Brodhead.
      Cheers,
      Jim B.
      
      PS we just got back from Brodhead/Oshkosh late last Friday night
      
      
      On Aug 11, 2008, gboothe5(at)comcast.net wrote: 
      
      
      I stretched 4mil clear visqueen over mine.
      Hold downs and positioners are fastened thru the visqueen and the plan and into
      the backup board. 11 ribs done and can still see all the lines very clearly,
      although it wouldn’t matter as the positioners do their jobs.
      
      
      Gary Boothe
      
      
      Cool, Ca.
      
      
      Pietenpol
      
      
      WW Corvair Conversion
      
      
      Tail done, working on
      fuselage
      
      
      (11 ribs down…)
      
      
      From:
      owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]
      On Behalf Of Michael Perez
      
      Sent: Monday, August 11, 2008 3:34
      PM
      
      
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: From
      print to jig...how?
      
      
        I received my Riblett print today. For those who may
        not know, it is a full size drawing like the full size Pietenpol rib print.
        How did you guys get the print transferred to the wood base on you rib jigs?
        I know someone sandwiched the print under Plexiglas. Any suggestions
        welcomed.
      
      
        http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Marc Davis <marcs_listreading(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
tail wheel
Date: 
Aug 12, 2008
      
      
      Has anyone figured the weight of a standard leaf spring type tail wheel as 
      compared to a
      Piet style tail skid converted to a tail wheel.  I know there are many vari
      ations but I'm trying to decide 
      if I should keep my current leaf spring or build a the original style.  I n
      eed to improve my CG picture.
      
      Marc
      _________________________________________________________________
      Reveal your inner athlete and share it with friends on Windows Live.
      http://revealyourinnerathlete.windowslive.com?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAG
      LM_WLYIA_whichathlete_us
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
tail wheel
Date: 
Aug 12, 2008
From: 
"Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinalhealth.com>
      
      Marc, like most things the answer is:  "It depends".  It depends on how
      many leaves you have in your leaf spring, how long you make the A-Arm,
      what diameter tubing and what wall thickness.  In my case it saved about
      1.5 lbs.  I also saved weight by going to the Aircraft Spruce
      "Homebuilders Special" 4" tailwheel instead of the 6" Scott that I
      started with.
      
      
      Jack Phillips
      
      NX899JP
      
      
        _____  
      
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marc
      Davis
      Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 3:02 PM
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: tail wheel
      
      
      Has anyone figured the weight of a standard leaf spring type tail wheel
      as compared to a
      Piet style tail skid converted to a tail wheel.  I know there are many
      variations but I'm trying to decide 
      if I should keep my current leaf spring or build a the original style.
      I need to improve my CG picture.
      
      Marc
      
        _____  
      
      Reveal your inner athlete and share it with friends on Windows Live.
      Share now!
      <http://revealyourinnerathlete.windowslive.com?locale=en-us&ocid=TXT_TAG
      LM_WLYIA_whichathlete_us>  
      
      
      _________________________________________________
      
      This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
      d, proprietary
      or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please 
      notify the sender
      immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is p
      rohibited.
      
      Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
      orsk - Portuguese
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
From: 
"Robert Butsch" <rbutsch(at)comcast.net>
Date: 
Aug 12, 2008
      
      
      Mike et al:
      
      Regarding the suggestion that you have a copy of your rib drawing made at Kinko's
      and having it laminated sounds like a great idea.  However, let me tell you
      what can happen if you do.
      
      I lofted, very carefully, the GA30U-612 airfoil and took it to a professional engineering
      firm to have a few copies made.  I told them that it must be an exact
      copy since it would be used on a building jig and the spar locations must be
      on the mark.  I went to pick up the copies and laid out the copy over the original.
      Registering the leading edge on both and moving left to right, I found
      that within about 14 inches the copy started to stray from the original.  between
      the spar locations the copy was off by a quarter inch.  I called for the
      manager who said he would do the prints on another digital printer and it should
      be fine.
      They did it again and once again we checked for accuracy.  It was better this time
      but the spar locations were still off by one eighth of an inch.
      I then decided that I would try Kinko's and they assured me they could make an
      exact copy.  We tried it and it was way worse than the engineering blueprint company.
      It would not be such a big deal if it were not for the spar locations.  I finally
      decided to just use the original under thin clear plastic and am taking very
      good care of the jig so as to not harm my original.  
      If you decide to try the Kinko's copy routine, just be sure to put the original
      and the print on a light table to check for accuracy.
      Another suggestion would be to simply lay down a bunch of carbon paper on the jig
      board and trace the outline and also use a straight edge for the intercostals
      and spar locations.  
      Have fun.
      Bob
      
      --------
      Robert Butsch  EAA 66532
      Pietenpol NX45BB (Alpha stage)
      In Indy IN
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198217#198217
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 12, 2008
From: 
"Ryan Mueller" <rmueller23(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
      
      The simplest way to end up with an undamaged full size Riblett plan, I would
      think, would be to just buy two prints. Another $10 and you can have one
      print on the jig, and one in perfect condition for reference or what have
      you.
      
      Ryan
      
      On Mon, Aug 11, 2008 at 7:45 PM, Michael Perez wrote:
      
      >
      > My mistake, what I am asking is: is there a way to easily transfer the plan
      > onto the jig, and keep the original plan intact. I have heard how to simply
      > make a copy is not always good, wondering if there is any other way. The
      > making holes and connecting the dots is a way I haven't thought of. I guess
      > once the jig is made and proven, we don't need the plan, but I would like to
      > try and salvage mine.
      >
      > It seems the easiest is to tape it down, cover with plastic, build.
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Marc Davis <marcs_listreading(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
tail wheel
Date: 
Aug 12, 2008
      
      
      Thanks Jack
      
      On West Coast Piet I see both setups on your plane.  
      Which way did you switch?  
      
      Thanks Marc
      
      
      Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: tail wheelDate: Tue=2C 12 Aug 2008 15:10:18 -0
      400From: Jack.Phillips(at)cardinalhealth.comTo: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      
      
      Marc=2C like most things the answer is:  =93It depends=94.  It depends on h
      ow many leaves you have in your leaf spring=2C how long you make the A-Arm
      =2C what diameter tubing and what wall thickness.  In my case it saved abou
      t 1.5 lbs.  I also saved weight by going to the Aircraft Spruce =93Homebuil
      ders Special=94 4=94 tailwheel instead of the 6=94 Scott that I started wit
      h.
      
      Jack Phillips
      NX899JP
      
      
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-lis
      t-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marc DavisSent: Tuesday=2C August 12
      =2C 2008 3:02 PMTo: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.comSubject: Pietenpol-List: ta
      il wheel
      
      Has anyone figured the weight of a standard leaf spring type tail wheel as 
      compared to aPiet style tail skid converted to a tail wheel.  I know there 
      are many variations but I'm trying to decide if I should keep my current le
      af spring or build a the original style.  I need to improve my CG picture. 
      Marc
      
      
      Reveal your inner athlete and share it with friends on Windows Live. Share 
      now!   http://www.matronics.com/contribution ______________________________
      ___________________
      
      This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
      d=2C proprietary
      or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error=2C pleas
      e notify the sender
      immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is p
      rohibited.
      
      Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
      orsk - Portuguese
      
      
      _________________________________________________________________
      Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games Trivia
       Contest
      http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergames?ocid=TXT_TAGHM
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
      
      You know, it seems to me it would be just as fast and also
      absolutely accurate if you just lay out the ordinates on your
      base with a good ole' bic pen.
      
      You guys are spending waaayyyy to much time and money
      agonizing over this crap.  It would be done already and
      you'd even have two ribs done for show and tell at tomorrows
      EAA meeting!
      
      Next time your wife comes home after spending six hours
      and burning $30 in gas to save $10 on a new dress you
      won't have anything to say about it. :-) :-)
      
      Clif
      
        "Neither can the wave that has passed by be recalled, 
        nor the hour which has passed return again."
        ~ Ovid 
      
      
        Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: From print to jig...how?
      
      
        The simplest way to end up with an undamaged full size Riblett plan, I 
      would think, would be to just buy two prints. Another $10 and you can 
      have one print on the jig, and one in perfect condition for reference or 
      what have you.
      
        Ryan
      
      
        On Mon, Aug 11, 2008 at 7:45 PM, Michael Perez 
       wrote:
      
      
                My mistake, what I am asking is: is there a way to easily 
      transfer the plan onto the jig, and keep the original plan intact. I 
      have heard how to simply make a copy is not always good, wondering if 
      there is any other way. The making holes and connecting the dots is a 
      way I haven't thought of. I guess once the jig is made and proven, we 
      don't need the plan, but I would like to try and salvage mine.
      
                It seems the easiest is to tape it down, cover with plastic, 
      build. 
      
      
      Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
      8/12/2008 4:59 PM
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Rob Stapleton, Jr." <foto(at)alaska.net>
Subject: 
Looking for wheels and brakes for my Piet
Date: 
Aug 12, 2008
      
      It time to put the Piet on wheels.
      
      OK guys-anybody out there have wheels or brakes for a 1" axle, I can't find
      anything but new stuff here in Anchorage  and it is really spendy.
      
      Not to choosy in Alaska.
      
      Rob
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
From: 
charles loomis <rameses32(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 
What set of plans do I use??
      
      
      I have the original artical on building the Pietenpol. I want to build a Piet with
      a Model A engine and I was wondering if there was a better set of plans to
      build from, perhaps with a lighter empty weight? I was wondering if the steel
      fuselage with built-up spars and even 1/4" x 1/4" cap strips would bring the
      ship in a little lighter? Also my plans lack the details for the steel fuselage,
      they give the structure details but nothing about the mounting tabs.
      
      Anyway, any help, Ideas or opinions are greately apprecated.
      Charley
      
      
            
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
HelsperSew(at)aol.com
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
Subject: 
Re: What set of plans do I use??
      
      Charley,
      
      If you are using a Model A, make sure and research the archives on the  
      subject of moving your engine forward. I missed this, and was surprised to find
      
      this out. It turns out that I am OK with me as the pilot, but I am only 150 lbs.
      
      
      
      Dan  Helsper
      Poplar Grove, IL.
      
      
      **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
      Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
      (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: With great dismay
From: 
"John Recine" <AmsafetyC(at)aol.com>
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
      
      VGhlcmUgYXJlIG5vIFBpZXRzIGluIEhhd2FpaS4gSnVzdCBsYW5kZWQgT2hhcmUgb24gdGhlIHdh
      eSBiYWNrIGhvbWUgd2l0aCBubyBwcm9qZWN0cyB0byBsb29rIGF0IHRoaXMgcGFzdCB3ZWVrDQoN
      CkEgd2VlayB3aXRob3V0IGEgUGlldCBqdXN0IHBsYW5lIHN1eA0KDQpKb2huDQpTZW50IGZyb20g
      bXkgVmVyaXpvbiBXaXJlbGVzcyBCbGFja0JlcnJ5DQoNCi0tLS0tT3JpZ2luYWwgTWVzc2FnZS0t
      LS0tDQpGcm9tOiBIZWxzcGVyU2V3QGFvbC5jb20NCg0KRGF0ZTogV2VkLCAxMyBBdWcgMjAwOCAw
      Njo0ODoxNiANClRvOiA8cGlldGVucG9sLWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbT4NClN1YmplY3Q6IFJl
      OiBQaWV0ZW5wb2wtTGlzdDogV2hhdCBzZXQgb2YgcGxhbnMgZG8gSSB1c2U/Pw0KDQoNCkNoYXJs
      ZXksDQogDQpJZiB5b3UgYXJlIHVzaW5nIGEgTW9kZWwgQSwgbWFrZSBzdXJlIGFuZCByZXNlYXJj
      aCB0aGUgYXJjaGl2ZXMgb24gdGhlICANCnN1YmplY3Qgb2YgbW92aW5nIHlvdXIgZW5naW5lIGZv
      cndhcmQuIEkgbWlzc2VkIHRoaXMsIGFuZCB3YXMgc3VycHJpc2VkIHRvIGZpbmQgIA0KdGhpcyBv
      dXQuIEl0IHR1cm5zIG91dCB0aGF0IEkgYW0gT0sgd2l0aCBtZSBhcyB0aGUgcGlsb3QsIGJ1dCBJ
      IGFtIG9ubHkgMTUwIGxicy4gDQogIA0KDQpEYW4gIEhlbHNwZXINClBvcGxhciBHcm92ZSwgSUwu
      DQoNCg0KDQoNCioqKioqKioqKioqKioqTG9va2luZyBmb3IgYSBjYXIgdGhhdCdzIHNwb3J0eSwg
      ZnVuIGFuZCBmaXRzIGluIHlvdXIgYnVkZ2V0PyANClJlYWQgcmV2aWV3cyBvbiBBT0wgQXV0b3Mu
      ICAgICAgDQooaHR0cDovL2F1dG9zLmFvbC5jb20vY2Fycy1CTVctMTI4LTIwMDgvZXhwZXJ0LXJl
      dmlldz9uY2lkPWFvbGF1dDAwMDUwMDAwMDAwMDE3ICkNCg0K
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"gcardinal" <gcardinal(at)comcast.net>
Subject: 
Re: What set of plans do I use??
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
      
      
      Plans can be ordered from the Pietenpol family at:
      http://www.pressenter.com/~apietenp/
      
      Articles on built up spars can be found in the construction section of:
      www.westcoastpiet.com
      
      Don't downsize the rib capstrips. You won't save enough weight to make a 
      difference.
      Roman Bukolt can comment on the steel tube fuselage.
      
      Where are you located Charley? You might have a Pietenpol close by that you 
      can look at.
      
      Greg Cardinal
      Minneapolis
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "charles loomis" <rameses32(at)yahoo.com>
      Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 4:59 AM
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: What set of plans do I use??
      
      
      >
      >
      > I have the original artical on building the Pietenpol. I want to build a 
      > Piet with a Model A engine and I was wondering if there was a better set 
      > of plans to build from, perhaps with a lighter empty weight? I was 
      > wondering if the steel fuselage with built-up spars and even 1/4" x 1/4" 
      > cap strips would bring the ship in a little lighter? Also my plans lack 
      > the details for the steel fuselage, they give the structure details but 
      > nothing about the mounting tabs.
      >
      > Anyway, any help, Ideas or opinions are greately apprecated.
      > Charley
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
tail wheel
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
From: 
"Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinalhealth.com>
      
      I originally had a leaf spring.  I changed it for the BHP design A-Arm
      setup
      
      
      Jack
      
      
        _____  
      
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marc
      Davis
      Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 2:19 AM
      Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: tail wheel
      
      
      Thanks Jack
      
      On West Coast Piet I see both setups on your plane.  
      Which way did you switch?  
      
      Thanks Marc
      
      
        _____  
      
      
      Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: tail wheel
      Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2008 15:10:18 -0400
      From: Jack.Phillips(at)cardinalhealth.com
      
      
      Marc, like most things the answer is:  "It depends".  It depends on how
      many leaves you have in your leaf spring, how long you make the A-Arm,
      what diameter tubing and what wall thickness.  In my case it saved about
      1.5 lbs.  I also saved weight by going to the Aircraft Spruce
      "Homebuilders Special" 4" tailwheel instead of the 6" Scott that I
      started with.
      
      
      Jack Phillips
      
      NX899JP
      
      
        _____  
      
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Marc
      Davis
      Sent: Tuesday, August 12, 2008 3:02 PM
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: tail wheel
      
      
      Has anyone figured the weight of a standard leaf spring type tail wheel
      as compared to a
      Piet style tail skid converted to a tail wheel.  I know there are many
      variations but I'm trying to decide 
      if I should keep my current leaf spring or build a the original style.
      I need to improve my CG picture.
      
      Marc
      
        _____  
      
      Reveal your inner athlete and share it with friends on Windows Live.
      Share now!
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      GLM_WLYIA_whichathlete_us>  
      
      
      http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      
      _________________________________________________
      
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      privileged, proprietary
      or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error,
      please notify the sender
      immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you
      is prohibited.
      
      Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands
      - Norsk - Portuguese
      
      
      st" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
      ttp://forums.matronics.com
      =_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      
      
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      orsk - Portuguese
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
From: 
charles loomis <rameses32(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 
Re: What set of plans do I use??
      
      
      I live just outside Port Macquarie, Australia, but I'm originally from Kansas.
      The last Pietenpol I saw up close was about 15 years ago at       K-State Salina,
      when I was attending for my Avionics courses. It was in a small room upstairs
      in a hanger, ready for covering. Unfortunately the builder passed away before
      he finished the ship, his craftsman ship was flawless. I'm sure someone on
      this list knows the aircraft I am speaking of.
      
      Charley
      
      
      --- On Wed, 8/13/08, gcardinal  wrote:
      
      > From: gcardinal <gcardinal(at)comcast.net>
      > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: What set of plans do I use??
      > To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      > Date: Wednesday, August 13, 2008, 9:28 PM
      > "gcardinal" 
      > 
      > Plans can be ordered from the Pietenpol family at:
      > http://www.pressenter.com/~apietenp/
      > 
      > Articles on built up spars can be found in the construction
      > section of:
      > www.westcoastpiet.com
      > 
      > Don't downsize the rib capstrips. You won't save
      > enough weight to make a 
      > difference.
      > Roman Bukolt can comment on the steel tube fuselage.
      > 
      > Where are you located Charley? You might have a Pietenpol
      > close by that you 
      > can look at.
      > 
      > Greg Cardinal
      > Minneapolis
      > 
      > ----- Original Message ----- 
      > From: "charles loomis"
      > 
      > To: 
      > Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 4:59 AM
      > Subject: Pietenpol-List: What set of plans do I use??
      > 
      > 
      > loomis 
      > >
      > >
      > > I have the original artical on building the Pietenpol.
      > I want to build a 
      > > Piet with a Model A engine and I was wondering if
      > there was a better set 
      > > of plans to build from, perhaps with a lighter empty
      > weight? I was 
      > > wondering if the steel fuselage with built-up spars
      > and even 1/4" x 1/4" 
      > > cap strips would bring the ship in a little lighter?
      > Also my plans lack 
      > > the details for the steel fuselage, they give the
      > structure details but 
      > > nothing about the mounting tabs.
      > >
      > > Anyway, any help, Ideas or opinions are greately
      > apprecated.
      > > Charley
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > > 
      > 
      > 
      > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
      
      
            
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
From: 
shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
      
      Group, one thing I remember from A+P school, drafting classes and blueprint
       reading, is don't ever use measurements you physically take from the plans
      ( with a ruler on the paper).- Go by the published dimension.- I do not
       know if your full size rib has written dimensions at rib stations.- The 
      reason for this is paper WILL change sizes with expansion, and contraction 
      due to temp, and humididy.- Copy machines will usually not give a perfect
       1 to 1 copy (much more noticable on a bigger drawing).- For a Piet or an
      y other low performance airplane I dont think 1/8 or even 1/4 inch would ma
      ke too much difference, the airplane would never know the difference.- Th
      e only thing that is critical would be the spar spacing, so that they all e
      nd up the same from the center section to the outboard wing pannels.- As 
      a kid I remember building a couple of my early R/C models, and they were no
      t all top notch streight as an arrow ships, but they all flew, and flew
       well after trimming them out.- Just keep all the "Identical" pieces as "
      identical" as you can and don't swet the small stuff.
      -
      Just my 2 cents worth,
      Shad=0A=0A=0A      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Robert Gow" <rgow(at)avionicsdesign.ca>
Subject: 
Looking for wheels and brakes for my Piet
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
      
      Try:
      
      http://www.airdromeairplanes.com/HeavyDutyWheels.html
      
      
      Looks like I'm going to get mine there.
      
      Bob
        -----Original Message-----
        From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rob
      Stapleton, Jr.
        Sent: August 13, 2008 3:29 AM
        To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
        Subject: Pietenpol-List: Looking for wheels and brakes for my Piet
      
      
        It time to put the Piet on wheels.
      
        OK guys-anybody out there have wheels or brakes for a 1" axle, I can't
      find anything but new stuff here in Anchorage  and it is really spendy.
      
        Not to choosy in Alaska.
      
        Rob
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Roy Brooks <n900ml(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
      
      
      As much as I hate to... I'll be selling my Piet project in a couple of week
      s=2C probably putting it on Ebay starting the auction as some very low pric
      e.
      
      Several years ago=2C I bought a project from a guy who was an Air Force mai
      ntenance officer on both the B-1 and B-2 aircraft. He also is an A&P/IA=2C 
      moved a few times=2C took a job with Cessna after getting out of the milita
      ry... 
      
      I bought this about 5 years ago and had plans to finish it with my father
      =2C but soon after I brought it home=2C my dad passed away=2C thus the proj
      ect has been gathering dust in my hanger here in Central Texas. 
      
      It was originally set up for a Corvair=2C but I had planned on putting my C
      ontinental A-80 on it. The fabric was pulled back off the front of the fuse
      lage and probably needs to be completely replaced. It is a Piet fuselage wi
      th Grega wings. The original builder wanted the Grega wings because of the 
      different stall characteristics=2C but he wanted the "looks" of a Pietenpol
       and built the fuselage from the Piet plans.
      
      The wings are covered and painted and it has an "number" already on the win
      gs=2C but they can be easily painted over.
      
      It has Honda CB 350 wheels (they look pretty cool) and I had them powder co
      ated red (I had planned on painting a Texas flag design or total red for th
      is project.)
      
      The center section was already built=2C but I removed the fabric and lower 
      plywood with the intention of installing a small supplemental fuel tank... 
      I have new plywood and fabric to recover. My dad said there needs to be som
      e washers welded onto the metal tabs that attach to the wings. I don't know
       why these were omitted by the original builder.
      
      The lift struts are ready to go and I have all the cables. 
      
      The instrument panel IS NOT INCLUDED. I have a small fortune in the panel a
      nd I am keeping it (pilot and passenger both) I paid a lot of money for "pr
      emium carpathian burl elm" veneer that I laminated in a vacuum bag=2C and i
      t looks like it belongs in a 1930-ish Rolls Royce. Again=2C the panel and g
      auges are not for sale=2C please don't ask.
      
      If anybody is interested=2C please e-mail me off this list at "N900ML@HOTMA
      IL.COM" and I can provide more info and pictures. I won't be able to send a
      ny recent pictures anytime soon=2C but can do so sometime in mid September.
      
      
      I'll also be selling the rebuilt A-80 engine FOR PARTS ONLY. I don't want t
      he liability if someone goes flying and they nose in someday. My dad rebuil
      t the engine (he had an A&P license) and I simply want the engine to go as 
      a "parts project" with the buyer signing a bill of sale stating this.
      The engine case was sent to Divco for a rebuild. The accessory case went of
      f for repair too. The cylinders were sent off and are Cermnil (the nickel b
      ore process=2C vastly superior to channel chrome=2C satin chrome) The crank
       was rebuilt I think M03 under. New bearings new=2C rod bolts=2C new Slick 
      mags with dual impulse couplers... Long story made short=2C this engine loo
      ks like it just came out of the Twilight Zone as if being in a time warp si
      nce 1941. I also have a rebuilt yellow tagged carb on this engine and the i
      ntake tubes are powder  coated candy apple blue. The valve covers are powde
      r coated in Continental yellow... I've never seen an A-65 or A-80 that is a
      s pretty as this engine. This engine even has a new data plate that looks i
      ncredible. All the info from the old data plate was PROFESSIONALLY engraved
       onto the new data plate. BUT AGAIN=2C I WANT TO EMPHASIZE THE ENGINE WILL 
      BE SOLD ONLY WITH THE UNDERSTANDING THAT IT IS A "PARTS ENGINE=2C" not some
      thing that is ready to stab onto an airplane and go flying. The engine will
       be sold separate from the airplane project. 
      
      If anybody wants a sneak preview=2C this project can be seen at the airport
       in Ballinger=2C Texas (between San Angelo and Abilene.) I won't be able to
       show it until sometime in mid or late September (please don't ask to see i
      t earlier).
      
      RSB
      
      
      _________________________________________________________________
      Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games Trivia
       Contest
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________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
From: 
"Pieti Lowell" <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com>
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
      
      
      In 1991 I received my print from H. Riblett, I first checked all the numbers to
      be sure that the print matched the airfoil, then I taped the print to the base
      board,and took a pin and went along all the lines punching small holes every
      half inch, before connecting the dots I rechecked the airfoil. Then I proceeded
      to finish the shape of the airfoil with a ball point pen. Construction is the
      same as Pietenpol
      Between each rib assembly I laid a sheet of Vis-quine,(spelling) and it worked
      well enough to finish my wing, and it did fly as well as Mr. Riblett predicted.
      The interesting thing, I recently remeasured the original drawing and it is
      much different than when I got it.
      If there is enough interest, I can pass along the Page 4 of  Riblett's letter to
      me that gives these coordinates, and notes, In order to get them to size one
      must print out the page.
      Pieti Lowell
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198374#198374
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
From: 
Owen Davies <owen5819(at)comcast.net>
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
      
      
      Among other comments, Pieti Lowell wrote:
      > If there is enough interest, I can pass along the Page 4 of  Riblett's letter
      to me that gives these coordinates, and notes, In order to get them to size one
      must print out the page.
      > Pieti Lowell
      I would love to have a copy! Wouldn't surprise me if others felt the 
      same way.
      
      Owen
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: No Title
From: 
"TOPGUN" <rmdinfo(at)lakefield.net>
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
      
      
      got any pictures?
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198379#198379
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
From: 
Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: 
Re: tenpol-List:
      
      Roy, I am sorry for the loss of your father and the drive to finish this pr
      oject. It is understandable...life will jack you pretty hard at times and t
      he unforseen futer is always changing. I wish you and yours the best and ho
      pe that maybe someday, the "building bug" will visit you again.
      -
      I am new to this project and am just now getting my wing jigs made. I am al
      ways looking to purchase what I will need in the future...engine included. 
      If the engine does not sell with the plane, I would be interested in talkin
      g to you about purchasing it. Please let me know, when you know. Thanks.
      
      --- On Wed, 8/13/08, Roy Brooks  wrote:
      
      From: Roy Brooks <n900ml(at)hotmail.com>
      Subject: Pietenpol-List:
      Date: Wednesday, August 13, 2008, 10:07 AM
      
      
      #yiv1594811430 .hmmessage P
      {
      margin:0px;padding:0px;}
      #yiv1594811430 {
      FONT-SIZE:10pt;FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma;}
      
      As much as I hate to... I'll be selling my Piet project in a couple of week
      s, probably putting it on Ebay starting the auction as some very low price.
      
      Several years ago, I bought a project from a guy who was an Air Force maint
      enance officer on both the B-1 and B-2 aircraft. He also is an A&P/IA, move
      d a few times, took a job with Cessna after getting out of the military...
      
      
      I bought this about 5 years ago and had plans to finish it with my father, 
      but soon after I brought it home, my dad passed away, thus the project has 
      been gathering dust in my hanger here in Central Texas. 
      
      It was originally set up for a Corvair, but I had planned on putting my Con
      tinental A-80 on it. The fabric was pulled back off the front of the fusela
      ge and probably needs to be completely replaced. It is a Piet fuselage with
       Grega wings. The original builder wanted the Grega wings because of the di
      fferent stall characteristics, but he wanted the "looks" of a Pietenpol and
       built the fuselage from the Piet plans.
      
      The wings are covered and painted and it has an "number" already on the win
      gs, but they can be easily painted over.
      
      It has Honda CB 350 wheels (they look pretty cool) and I had them powder co
      ated red (I had planned on painting a Texas flag design or total red for th
      is project.)
      
      The center section was already built, but I removed the fabric and lower pl
      ywood with the intention of installing a small supplemental fuel tank... I 
      have new plywood and fabric to recover. My dad said there needs to be some 
      washers welded onto the metal tabs that attach to the wings. I don't know w
      hy these were omitted by the original builder.
      
      The lift struts are ready to go and I have all the cables. 
      
      The instrument panel IS NOT INCLUDED. I have a small fortune in the panel a
      nd I am keeping it (pilot and passenger both) I paid a lot of money for "pr
      emium carpathian burl elm" veneer that I laminated in a vacuum bag, and it 
      looks like it belongs in a 1930-ish Rolls Royce. Again, the panel and gauge
      s are not for sale, please don't ask.
      
      If anybody is interested, please e-mail me off this list at "N900ML@HOTMAIL
      .COM" and I can provide more info and pictures. I won't be able to send any
       recent pictures anytime soon, but can do so sometime in mid September. 
      
      I'll also be selling the rebuilt A-80 engine FOR PARTS ONLY. I don't want t
      he liability if someone goes flying and they nose in someday. My dad rebuil
      t the engine (he had an A&P license) and I simply want the engine to go as 
      a "parts project" with the buyer signing a bill of sale stating this.
      The engine case was sent to Divco for a rebuild. The accessory case went of
      f for repair too. The cylinders were sent off and are Cermnil (the nickel b
      ore process, vastly superior to channel chrome, satin chrome) The crank was
       rebuilt I think M03 under. New bearings new, rod bolts, new Slick mags wit
      h dual impulse couplers... Long story made short, this engine looks like it
       just came out of the Twilight Zone as if being in a time warp since 1941. 
      I also have a rebuilt yellow tagged carb on this engine and the intake tube
      s are powder- coated candy apple blue. The valve covers are powder coated
       in Continental yellow... I've never seen an A-65 or A-80 that is as pretty
       as this engine. This engine even has a new data plate that looks incredibl
      e. All the info from the old data plate was PROFESSIONALLY engraved onto th
      e new data plate. BUT AGAIN, I WANT TO EMPHASIZE THE ENGINE WILL BE SOLD ON
      LY WITH THE UNDERSTANDING THAT IT IS A "PARTS ENGINE," not something
       that is ready to stab onto an airplane and go flying. The engine will be s
      old separate from the airplane project. 
      
      If anybody wants a sneak preview, this project can be seen at the airport i
      n Ballinger, Texas (between San Angelo and Abilene.) I won't be able to sho
      w it until sometime in mid or late September (please don't ask to see it ea
      rlier).
      
      RSB
      
      
      Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games Trivia
       Contest Find out how. 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: With great dismay
From: 
outofthebox50(at)yahoo.com
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
      
      QSB3ZWVrIGluIEhhd2FpaSBzdXg/ICANCg0KSW50ZXJuZXQgc2lyLCBmb3IgdGhlIFBpZXQgZml4
      Lg0KDQogSSBoYXZlbid0IGFjdHVhbGx5IHNlZW4gYSBmbHlpbmcgUGlldCB5ZXQuICBEYWQgd2Fu
      dHMgdG8gZmx5IHRvIGNob3JwdXMgY2hyaXN0eSBpbiB0aGUgcmFucyB3aGVuIGl0IGNvb2xzIG9m
      Zi4gIEknbSBob3Bpbmcgd2UgY2FuIHN0b3AgYW5kIGJ1bSBhIHJpZGUgZnJvbSBvbmUgb2YgdGhl
      IGZseWluZyBQaWV0cywgc291dGggb2YgdXMsICBvbiB0aGUgd2F5LiANCg0KSmVyZW15IGluIERh
      bGxhcw0KDQpEbyBub3QgYXJjaGl2ZQ0KIA0KU2VudCB2aWEgQmxhY2tCZXJyeSBmcm9tIFQtTW9i
      aWxlDQoNCi0tLS0tT3JpZ2luYWwgTWVzc2FnZS0tLS0tDQpGcm9tOiAiSm9obiBSZWNpbmUiIDxB
      bXNhZmV0eUNAYW9sLmNvbT4NCg0KRGF0ZTogV2VkLCAxMyBBdWcgMjAwOCAxMToxOTozNSANClRv
      OiA8cGlldGVucG9sLWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbT4NClN1YmplY3Q6IFJlOiBQaWV0ZW5wb2wt
      TGlzdDogV2l0aCBncmVhdCBkaXNtYXkNCg0KDQoNCg=
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
From: 
Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
      
      Copy that Shad. My plan has no specific numbers other then the spar locatio
      ns. To measure and duplicate would be at best, an eyeball copy. What I ened
      ed up doing was laid tracing paper over the print, copied it and-used a r
      uler to duplicate the cross members and other straight lines. This traced c
      opy will be laid on the jig and covered with thin plastic. Took about 30 mi
      n. to do, saved me an additional $10.00 and I still have my new original.
      -
      For those of you who question my eagerness to do things different and ask q
      uestions: if all we did was follow the crowd, we would still be getting aro
      und in horse and buggy.
      
      
      --- On Wed, 8/13/08, shad bell  wrote:
      
      From: shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com>
      Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: From print to jig...how?
      Date: Wednesday, August 13, 2008, 8:34 AM
      
      
      Group, one thing I remember from A+P school, drafting classes and blueprint
       reading, is don't ever use measurements you physically take from the plans
      ( with a ruler on the paper).- Go by the published dimension.- I do not
       know if your full size rib has written dimensions at rib stations.- The 
      reason for this is paper WILL change sizes with expansion, and contraction 
      due to temp, and humididy.- Copy machines will usually not give a perfect
       1 to 1 copy (much more noticable on a bigger drawing).- For a Piet or an
      y other low performance airplane I dont think 1/8 or even 1/4 inch would ma
      ke too much difference, the airplane would never know the difference.- Th
      e only thing that is critical would be the spar spacing, so that they all e
      nd up the same from the center section to the outboard wing pannels.- As 
      a kid I remember building a couple of my early R/C models, and they were no
      t all top notch streight as an arrow ships, but they all flew, and flew
       well after trimming them out.- Just keep all the "Identical" pieces as "
      identical" as you can and don't swet the small stuff.
      -
      Just my 2 cents worth,
      Shad
      
      
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
From: 
"Rick Holland" <at7000ft(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: With great dismay
      
      Thats what you get for living in paradise. But think how good it will feel
      to be able to say that you are the first to build (and fly) a Piet  in
      paradise. You can post some pics of you in your Piet flying over one of
      those volcanoes.
      
      Rick
      
      On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 5:19 AM, John Recine  wrote:
      
      > There are no Piets in Hawaii. Just landed Ohare on the way back home with
      > no projects to look at this past week
      >
      > A week without a Piet just plane sux
      >
      > John
      >
      > Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
      >
      > ------------------------------
      > *From*: HelsperSew(at)aol.com
      > *To*: 
      > *Subject*: Re: Pietenpol-List: What set of plans do I use??
      > Charley,
      >
      > If you are using a Model A, make sure and research the archives on the
      > subject of moving your engine forward. I missed this, and was surprised to
      > find this out. It turns out that I am OK with me as the pilot, but I am only
      > 150 lbs.
      > Dan Helsper
      > Poplar Grove, IL.
      >
      >
      > ------------------------------
      > Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read reviews
      > on AOL Autos<http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017>
      > .
      >
      >
      
      
      -- 
      Rick Holland
      Castle Rock, Colorado
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Roy Brooks <n900ml(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
Piet for sale
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
      
      
      Sorry. I didn't put the correct topic on this message=2C but it is in regar
      d to the Piet project I plan on selling in mid to late September. I used to
       be on this list a couple of years ago (started the TACO movement) and just
       wanted to give you guys a heads-up if anyone is looking to "jump-start" an
       Air Camper and be miles ahead of the game.
      
      When this project sells=2C I won't be much help in being able to load the s
      tuff onto or in a trailer. So=2C be prepared to bring a friend or two... I'
      ve turned into a decrepit old guy.
      
      Stayed tuned... Pictures and info will be available in mid to late Septembe
      r.
      (Sorry for the double-post)
      
      From: n900ml(at)hotmail.com
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: 
      Date: Wed=2C 13 Aug 2008 09:07:50 -0500
      
      
      As much as I hate to... I'll be selling my Piet project in a couple of week
      s=2C probably putting it on Ebay starting the auction as some very low pric
      e.
      
      Several years ago=2C I bought a project from a guy who was an Air Force mai
      ntenance officer on both the B-1 and B-2 aircraft. He also is an A&P/IA=2C 
      moved a few times=2C took a job with Cessna after getting out of the milita
      ry... 
      
      I bought this about 5 years ago and had plans to finish it with my father
      =2C but soon after I brought it home=2C my dad passed away=2C thus the proj
      ect has been gathering dust in my hanger here in Central Texas. 
      
      It was originally set up for a Corvair=2C but I had planned on putting my C
      ontinental A-80 on it. The fabric was pulled back off the front of the fuse
      lage and probably needs to be completely replaced. It is a Piet fuselage wi
      th Grega wings. The original builder wanted the Grega wings because of the 
      different stall characteristics=2C but he wanted the "looks" of a Pietenpol
       and built the fuselage from the Piet plans.
      
      The wings are covered and painted and it has an "number" already on the win
      gs=2C but they can be easily painted over.
      
      It has Honda CB 350 wheels (they look pretty cool) and I had them powder co
      ated red (I had planned on painting a Texas flag design or total red for th
      is project.)
      
      The center section was already built=2C but I removed the fabric and lower 
      plywood with the intention of installing a small supplemental fuel tank... 
      I have new plywood and fabric to recover. My dad said there needs to be som
      e washers welded onto the metal tabs that attach to the wings. I don't know
       why these were omitted by the original builder.
      
      The lift struts are ready to go and I have all the cables. 
      
      The instrument panel IS NOT INCLUDED. I have a small fortune in the panel a
      nd I am keeping it (pilot and passenger both) I paid a lot of money for "pr
      emium carpathian burl elm" veneer that I laminated in a vacuum bag=2C and i
      t looks like it belongs in a 1930-ish Rolls Royce. Again=2C the panel and g
      auges are not for sale=2C please don't ask.
      
      If anybody is interested=2C please e-mail me off this list at "N900ML@HOTMA
      IL.COM" and I can provide more info and pictures. I won't be able to send a
      ny recent pictures anytime soon=2C but can do so sometime in mid September.
      
      
      I'll also be selling the rebuilt A-80 engine FOR PARTS ONLY. I don't want t
      he liability if someone goes flying and they nose in someday. My dad rebuil
      t the engine (he had an A&P license) and I simply want the engine to go as 
      a "parts project" with the buyer signing a bill of sale stating this.
      The engine case was sent to Divco for a rebuild. The accessory case went of
      f for repair too. The cylinders were sent off and are Cermnil (the nickel b
      ore process=2C vastly superior to channel chrome=2C satin chrome) The crank
       was rebuilt I think M03 under. New bearings new=2C rod bolts=2C new Slick 
      mags with dual impulse couplers... Long story made short=2C this engine loo
      ks like it just came out of the Twilight Zone as if being in a time warp si
      nce 1941. I also have a rebuilt yellow tagged carb on this engine and the i
      ntake tubes are powder  coated candy apple blue. The valve covers are powde
      r coated in Continental yellow... I've never seen an A-65 or A-80 that is a
      s pretty as this engine. This engine even has a new data plate that looks i
      ncredible. All the info from the old data plate was PROFESSIONALLY engraved
       onto the new data plate. BUT AGAIN=2C I WANT TO EMPHASIZE THE ENGINE WILL 
      BE SOLD ONLY WITH THE UNDERSTANDING THAT IT IS A "PARTS ENGINE=2C" not some
      thing that is ready to stab onto an airplane and go flying. The engine will
       be sold separate from the airplane project. 
      
      If anybody wants a sneak preview=2C this project can be seen at the airport
       in Ballinger=2C Texas (between San Angelo and Abilene.) I won't be able to
       show it until sometime in mid or late September (please don't ask to see i
      t earlier).
      
      RSB
      
      
      Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games Trivia
       Contest Find out how.
      
      
      _________________________________________________________________
      Your PC=2C mobile phone=2C and online services work together like never bef
      ore.
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Piet for sale
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
From: 
"Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinalhealth.com>
      
      You mean to say Roy Brooks is the same as Sterling Brooks, the Head
      Honcho of TACO?
      
      
      Jack Phillips
      
      NX899JP
      
      
        _____  
      
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roy
      Brooks
      Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 1:50 PM
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: Piet for sale
      
      
      Sorry. I didn't put the correct topic on this message, but it is in
      regard to the Piet project I plan on selling in mid to late September. I
      used to be on this list a couple of years ago (started the TACO
      movement) and just wanted to give you guys a heads-up if anyone is
      looking to "jump-start" an Air Camper and be miles ahead of the game.
      
      When this project sells, I won't be much help in being able to load the
      stuff onto or in a trailer. So, be prepared to bring a friend or two...
      I've turned into a decrepit old guy.
      
      Stayed tuned... Pictures and info will be available in mid to late
      September.
      (Sorry for the double-post)
      
        _____  
      
      From: n900ml(at)hotmail.com
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: 
      Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 09:07:50 -0500
      
      As much as I hate to... I'll be selling my Piet project in a couple of
      weeks, probably putting it on Ebay starting the auction as some very low
      price.
      
      Several years ago, I bought a project from a guy who was an Air Force
      maintenance officer on both the B-1 and B-2 aircraft. He also is an
      A&P/IA, moved a few times, took a job with Cessna after getting out of
      the military... 
      
      I bought this about 5 years ago and had plans to finish it with my
      father, but soon after I brought it home, my dad passed away, thus the
      project has been gathering dust in my hanger here in Central Texas. 
      
      It was originally set up for a Corvair, but I had planned on putting my
      Continental A-80 on it. The fabric was pulled back off the front of the
      fuselage and probably needs to be completely replaced. It is a Piet
      fuselage with Grega wings. The original builder wanted the Grega wings
      because of the different stall characteristics, but he wanted the
      "looks" of a Pietenpol and built the fuselage from the Piet plans.
      
      The wings are covered and painted and it has an "number" already on the
      wings, but they can be easily painted over.
      
      It has Honda CB 350 wheels (they look pretty cool) and I had them powder
      coated red (I had planned on painting a Texas flag design or total red
      for this project.)
      
      The center section was already built, but I removed the fabric and lower
      plywood with the intention of installing a small supplemental fuel
      tank... I have new plywood and fabric to recover. My dad said there
      needs to be some washers welded onto the metal tabs that attach to the
      wings. I don't know why these were omitted by the original builder.
      
      The lift struts are ready to go and I have all the cables. 
      
      The instrument panel IS NOT INCLUDED. I have a small fortune in the
      panel and I am keeping it (pilot and passenger both) I paid a lot of
      money for "premium carpathian burl elm" veneer that I laminated in a
      vacuum bag, and it looks like it belongs in a 1930-ish Rolls Royce.
      Again, the panel and gauges are not for sale, please don't ask.
      
      If anybody is interested, please e-mail me off this list at
      "N900ML(at)HOTMAIL.COM" and I can provide more info and pictures. I won't
      be able to send any recent pictures anytime soon, but can do so sometime
      in mid September. 
      
      I'll also be selling the rebuilt A-80 engine FOR PARTS ONLY. I don't
      want the liability if someone goes flying and they nose in someday. My
      dad rebuilt the engine (he had an A&P license) and I simply want the
      engine to go as a "parts project" with the buyer signing a bill of sale
      stating this.
      The engine case was sent to Divco for a rebuild. The accessory case went
      off for repair too. The cylinders were sent off and are Cermnil (the
      nickel bore process, vastly superior to channel chrome, satin chrome)
      The crank was rebuilt I think M03 under. New bearings new, rod bolts,
      new Slick mags with dual impulse couplers... Long story made short, this
      engine looks like it just came out of the Twilight Zone as if being in a
      time warp since 1941. I also have a rebuilt yellow tagged carb on this
      engine and the intake tubes are powder  coated candy apple blue. The
      valve covers are powder coated in Continental yellow... I've never seen
      an A-65 or A-80 that is as pretty as this engine. This engine even has a
      new data plate that looks incredible. All the info from the old data
      plate was PROFESSIONALLY engraved onto the new data plate. BUT AGAIN, I
      WANT TO EMPHASIZE THE ENGINE WILL BE SOLD ONLY WITH THE UNDERSTANDING
      THAT IT IS A "PARTS ENGINE," not something that is ready to stab onto an
      airplane and go flying. The engine will be sold separate from the
      airplane project. 
      
      If anybody wants a sneak preview, this project can be seen at the
      airport in Ballinger, Texas (between San Angelo and Abilene.) I won't be
      able to show it until sometime in mid or late September (please don't
      ask to see it earlier).
      
      RSB
      
      
        _____  
      
      Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games
      Trivia Contest Find out how.
      <http://www.gowindowslive.com/summergames?ocid=TXT_TAGHM>  
      
      
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      http://forums.matronics.com
      ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      
      
        _____  
      
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________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
From: 
Jim <jimboyer(at)hughes.net>
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
      
      
      Jim Boyer
      
      Hi Lowell,
      I would appreciate a copy of the cordinates for the Riblett. I got a drawing of
      it from Bill Rewey at Brodhead last week but it doesn't have any coordinates.
      Thanks,
      Jim
      
      
      On Aug 13, 2008, Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com wrote: 
      
      In 1991 I received my print from H. Riblett, I first checked all the numbers to
      be sure that the print matched the airfoil, then I taped the print to the base
      board,and took a pin and went along all the lines punching small holes every
      half inch, before connecting the dots I rechecked the airfoil. Then I proceeded
      to finish the shape of the airfoil with a ball point pen. Construction is the
      same as Pietenpol
      Between each rib assembly I laid a sheet of Vis-quine,(spelling) and it worked
      well enough to finish my wing, and it did fly as well as Mr. Riblett predicted.
      The interesting thing, I recently remeasured the original drawing and it is
      much different than when I got it.
      If there is enough interest, I can pass along the Page 4 of  Riblett's letter to
      me that gives these coordinates, and notes, In order to get them to size one
      must print out the page.
      Pieti Lowell
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198374#198374
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
From: 
"Ken Chambers" <ken.riffic(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
      
      I'd love to see page 4, just to check my out my print before I poke it full
      of holes.
      
      Ken
      
      On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 9:19 AM, Pieti Lowell wrote:
      
      > Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com>
      >
      > In 1991 I received my print from H. Riblett, I first checked all the
      > numbers to be sure that the print matched the airfoil, then I taped the
      > print to the base board,and took a pin and went along all the lines punching
      > small holes every half inch, before connecting the dots I rechecked the
      > airfoil. Then I proceeded to finish the shape of the airfoil with a ball
      > point pen. Construction is the same as Pietenpol
      > Between each rib assembly I laid a sheet of Vis-quine,(spelling) and it
      > worked well enough to finish my wing, and it did fly as well as Mr. Riblett
      > predicted. The interesting thing, I recently remeasured the original drawing
      > and it is much different than when I got it.
      > If there is enough interest, I can pass along the Page 4 of  Riblett's
      > letter to me that gives these coordinates, and notes, In order to get them
      > to size one must print out the page.
      > Pieti Lowell
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198374#198374
      >
      >
      
      
      -- 
      Ken Chambers
      512-796-1798
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
From: 
Ben Charvet <bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
      
      
      I have to agree with Clif on this one.  I ended up lofting the 
      dimensions for the Piet airfoil off the plans, even though I got the 
      full size rib print  with my plan set.  As I recall there was a slight 
      difference in size between the spars,  However in retrospect, 1/4 inch 
      difference in that distance won't make a bit of difference since all the 
      ribs come off the same jig.  If you already have a full size riblet 
      plan, what in the world are you going to do with it after you make your 
      jig??  Don't get too bogged down on the small stuff like this or you'll 
      never get through the things that aren't covered in the plans.
      
      Just my 2 cents
      
      Ben Charvet
      
      
      Clif Dawson wrote:
      > You know, it seems to me it would be just as fast and also
      > absolutely accurate if you just lay out the ordinates on your
      > base with a good ole' bic pen.
      >  
      > You guys are spending waaayyyy to much time and money
      > agonizing over this crap.  It would be done already and
      > you'd even have two ribs done for show and tell at tomorrows
      > EAA meeting!
      >  
      > Next time your wife comes home after spending six hours
      > and burning $30 in gas to save $10 on a new dress you
      > won't have anything to say about it. :-) :-)
      >  
      > Clif
      >  
      >
      >     "Neither can the wave that has passed by be recalled,
      >     nor the hour which has passed return again."
      >     ~ Ovid
      >
      >  
      >  
      >
      >     *Subject:* Re: Pietenpol-List: >From print to jig...how?
      >
      >     The simplest way to end up with an undamaged full size Riblett
      >     plan, I would think, would be to just buy two prints. Another $10
      >     and you can have one print on the jig, and one in perfect
      >     condition for reference or what have you.
      >
      >     Ryan
      >
      >     On Mon, Aug 11, 2008 at 7:45 PM, Michael Perez
      >     > wrote:
      >
      >
      >         My mistake, what I am asking is: is there a way to easily
      >         transfer the plan onto the jig, and keep the original plan
      >         intact. I have heard how to simply make a copy is not always
      >         good, wondering if there is any other way. The making holes
      >         and connecting the dots is a way I haven't thought of. I guess
      >         once the jig is made and proven, we don't need the plan, but I
      >         would like to try and salvage mine.
      >          
      >         It seems the easiest is to tape it down, cover with plastic,
      >         build.
      >
      >     *
      >
      >     href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
      >     href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
      >     href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
      >     Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
      >     8/12/2008 4:59 PM
      >     *
      >
      > **
      >
      >
      > **
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
BScott116(at)aol.com
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
      
      Paper will shrink under various atmospheric conditions.
      
      
      In a message dated 8/13/2008 9:19:48 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  
      Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com writes:
      
      -->  Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Pieti Lowell"  
      
      
      In 1991 I received my print from H.  Riblett, I first checked all the numbers 
      to be sure that the print matched the  airfoil, then I taped the print to the 
      base board,and took a pin and went  along all the lines punching small holes 
      every half inch, before connecting  the dots I rechecked the airfoil. Then I 
      proceeded to finish the shape of the  airfoil with a ball point pen. 
      Construction is the same as  Pietenpol
      Between each rib assembly I laid a sheet of Vis-quine,(spelling)  and it 
      worked well enough to finish my wing, and it did fly as well as Mr.  Riblett 
      predicted. The interesting thing, I recently remeasured the original  drawing and
      
      it is much different than when I got it.
      If there is enough  interest, I can pass along the Page 4 of  Riblett's 
      letter to me that  gives these coordinates, and notes, In order to get them to
      size 
      one must  print out the page.
      Pieti Lowell
      
      
      Read this topic online  here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198374#198374
      
      
      **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
      Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
      (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
From: 
"ALAN LYSCARS" <alyscars(at)verizon.net>
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
      
      
      Dear Pieti,
      
      I, too, have the full-size Riblett template.  I intend to use the airfoil on 
      my GN-1.
      If it's not too much trouble I'd like for you to send me what you've got.  I 
      think your information would give me a more broad understanding of this 
      airfoil- of which knowledge, of course, I could pass on to younger airplane 
      nuts.
      
      Yours,
      
      Al Lyscars
      Manchester, NH
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Pieti Lowell" <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com>
      Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 10:19 AM
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: From print to jig...how?
      
      
      > 
      >
      > In 1991 I received my print from H. Riblett, I first checked all the 
      > numbers to be sure that the print matched the airfoil, then I taped the 
      > print to the base board,and took a pin and went along all the lines 
      > punching small holes every half inch, before connecting the dots I 
      > rechecked the airfoil. Then I proceeded to finish the shape of the airfoil 
      > with a ball point pen. Construction is the same as Pietenpol
      > Between each rib assembly I laid a sheet of Vis-quine,(spelling) and it 
      > worked well enough to finish my wing, and it did fly as well as Mr. 
      > Riblett predicted. The interesting thing, I recently remeasured the 
      > original drawing and it is much different than when I got it.
      > If there is enough interest, I can pass along the Page 4 of  Riblett's 
      > letter to me that gives these coordinates, and notes, In order to get them 
      > to size one must print out the page.
      > Pieti Lowell
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198374#198374
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
From: 
Tim Verthein <minoxphotographer(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 
Waldo Update
      
      
      Egad David! You must have hit it lucky. I went to warshows.com and looked up the
      Great Waldo Pepper.  Here's the listing:
      "GREAT WALDO PEPPER
      SKU: AC54,AC54DVD
      (1975) Lots of flying and lots of fun in this great Redford flying festival film.
      Robert Redford, Bo Svenson. 107 min. This title has been out of print for awhile.
      Available on VHS (MAY BE USED), AND DVD
      PRICE: $99.98
      $99.98 VHS
      $99.98 DVD"
      
      I consider sending out freebie copies to be a service to the aviation community
      and a somewhat slap in the face to the movie company and collectors. This is
      the sort of movie that generally winds up in sale bins at walmart for $5 that
      nobody buys because they've never heard of it. For some reason it's been out of
      print for years.
      
      I've mailed out a mountain of these the past few days and if you're one of those
      who e-mailed me for one you should have it shortly. Enjoy them.  If you didn't
      email me for one but posted to the list only, I *may* miss you.
      
      Tim in Bovey
      
      Gentleman,
            
            I bought a copy of the Waldo Pepper DVD while at Oshkosh for $32.00 (New).
            The vendor imports the DVD's from Germany.  The DVD cover is in German, but
            the movie is in English.  The movie is titled "Tollkuhne Flieger" with
            Robert Redford.  If anyone is interested go to www.warshows.com
            or call at 1-973-328-8488.
            
            Take care,
            David
      
      
            
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
From: 
Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
      
      Why does it matter so much that I want to keep the print in nice condition?
      - I'm not asking about sizes, shapes, measurements, etc. I just wanted to
       know how to transfer the lines from one to another. Is that so wrong? Simp
      le question, I thought.
      
      
      --- On Wed, 8/13/08, Ben Charvet  wrote:
      
      From: Ben Charvet <bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net>
      Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: From print to jig...how?
      Date: Wednesday, August 13, 2008, 3:18 PM
      
      
      
      I have to agree with Clif on this one.  I ended up lofting the 
      dimensions for the Piet airfoil off the plans, even though I got the 
      full size rib print  with my plan set.  As I recall there was a slight 
      difference in size between the spars,  However in retrospect, 1/4 inch 
      difference in that distance won't make a bit of difference since all the 
      ribs come off the same jig.  If you already have a full size riblet 
      plan, what in the world are you going to do with it after you make your 
      jig??  Don't get too bogged down on the small stuff like this or you'll
      
      never get through the things that aren't covered in the plans.
      
      Just my 2 cents
      
      Ben Charvet
      
      
      Clif Dawson wrote:
      > You know, it seems to me it would be just as fast and also
      > absolutely accurate if you just lay out the ordinates on your
      > base with a good ole' bic pen.
      >  
      > You guys are spending waaayyyy to much time and money
      > agonizing over this crap.  It would be done already and
      > you'd even have two ribs done for show and tell at tomorrows
      > EAA meeting!
      >  
      > Next time your wife comes home after spending six hours
      > and burning $30 in gas to save $10 on a new dress you
      > won't have anything to say about it. :-) :-)
      >  
      > Clif
      >  
      >
      >     "Neither can the wave that has passed by be recalled,
      >     nor the hour which has passed return again."
      >     ~ Ovid
      >
      >  
      >  
      >
      >     *Subject:* Re: Pietenpol-List: >From print to jig...how?
      >
      >     The simplest way to end up with an undamaged full size Riblett
      >     plan, I would think, would be to just buy two prints. Another $10
      >     and you can have one print on the jig, and one in perfect
      >     condition for reference or what have you.
      >
      >     Ryan
      >
      >     On Mon, Aug 11, 2008 at 7:45 PM, Michael Perez
      >     > wrote:
      >
      >
      >         My mistake, what I am asking is: is there a way to easily
      >         transfer the plan onto the jig, and keep the original plan
      >         intact. I have heard how to simply make a copy is not always
      >         good, wondering if there is any other way. The making holes
      >         and connecting the dots is a way I haven't thought of. I guess
      >         once the jig is made and proven, we don't need the plan, but I
      >         would like to try and salvage mine.
      >          
      >         It seems the easiest is to tape it down, cover with plastic,
      >         build.
      >
      >     *
      >
      >    
      href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matro
      nics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
      >    
      href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
      >    
      href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
      >     Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
      >     8/12/2008 4:59 PM
      >     *
      >
      > **
      >
      >
      > **
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 13, 2008
From: 
"Jim Lathrop" <jlathrop(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
      
      I just covered my jig material with carbon paper, laid the full size print
      on top and traced it with a blunt nail.  No damage to source and a nice copy
      on the jig.
      
      Jim
      
      On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 7:04 PM, Michael Perez wrote:
      
      > Why does it matter so much that I want to keep the print in nice
      > condition?  I'm not asking about sizes, shapes, measurements, etc. I just
      > wanted to know how to transfer the lines from one to another. Is that so
      > wrong? Simple question, I thought.
      >
      >
      > --- On *Wed, 8/13/08, Ben Charvet * wrote:
      >
      > From: Ben Charvet <bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net>
      > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: From print to jig...how?
      > To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      > Date: Wednesday, August 13, 2008, 3:18 PM
      >
      >
      > 
      >
      > I have to agree with Clif on this one.  I ended up lofting the
      > dimensions for the Piet airfoil off the plans, even though I got the
      > full size rib print  with my plan set.  As I recall there was a slight
      > difference in size between the spars,  However in retrospect, 1/4 inch
      > difference in that distance won't make a bit of difference since all the
      > ribs come off the same jig.  If you already have a full size riblet
      > plan, what in the world are you going to do with it after you make your
      > jig??  Don't get too bogged down on the small stuff like this or you'll
      >
      > never get through the things that aren't covered in the plans.
      >
      > Just my 2 cents
      >
      > Ben Charvet
      >
      >
      > Clif Dawson wrote:
      > > You know, it seems to me it would be just as fast and also
      > > absolutely accurate if you just lay out the ordinates on your
      > > base with a good ole' bic pen.
      > >
      > > You guys are spending waaayyyy to much time and money
      > > agonizing over this crap.  It would be done already and
      > > you'd even have two ribs done for show and tell at tomorrows
      > > EAA meeting!
      > >
      > > Next time your wife comes home after spending six hours
      > > and burning $30 in gas to save $10 on a new dress you
      > > won't have anything to say about it. :-) :-)
      > >
      > > Clif
      > >
      > >
      > >     "Neither can the wave that has passed by be recalled,
      > >     nor the hour which has passed return again."
      > >     ~ Ovid
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >     *Subject:* Re: Pietenpol-List: >From print to jig...how?
      > >
      > >     The simplest way to end up with an undamaged full size Riblett
      > >     plan, I would think, would be to just buy two prints. Another $10
      > >     and you can have one print on the jig, and one in perfect
      > >     condition for reference or what have you.
      > >
      > >     Ryan
      > >
      > >     On Mon, Aug 11, 2008 at 7:45 PM, Michael Perez
      > >      > wrote:
      > >
      > >
      > >         My mistake, what I am asking is: is there a way to easily
      > >         transfer the plan onto the jig, and keep the original plan
      > >         intact. I have heard how to simply make a copy is not always
      > >         good, wondering if there is any other way. The making holes
      > >         and connecting the dots is a way I haven't thought of. I guess
      > >         once the jig is made and proven, we don't need the plan, but I
      > >         would like to try and salvage mine.
      > >
      > >         It seems the easiest is to tape it down, cover with plastic,
      > >         build.
      > >
      > >     *
      > >
      > >
      > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
      > >
      > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
      > >
      > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
      > >     Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
      > >     8/12/2008 4:59 PM
      > >     *
      > >
      > > **
      > >
      > >
      > > **
      >
      >
      > *
      >
      > 3D
      > *
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
johnwoods(at)westnet.com.au
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
      
      
      For those who may not be aware, a spreadsheet of the 612 section with
      co-orgdinates was posted here a while ago.
      JohnW
      
      ---- Original Message ----
      From: owen5819(at)comcast.net
      Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: From print to jig...how?
      Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2008 10:41:57 -0400
      
      >
      >
      >Among other comments, Pieti Lowell wrote:
      >> If there is enough interest, I can pass along the Page 4 of 
      >Riblett's letter to me that gives these coordinates, and notes, In
      >order to get them to size one must print out the page.
      >> Pieti Lowell
      >I would love to have a copy! Wouldn't surprise me if others felt the 
      >same way.
      >
      >Owen
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
From: 
Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: 
Route 3/4" spar?
      
      I am have decided to use solid Sitka 3/4" spars with my Riblett ribs. My qu
      estions are now as follows:-should I route out the front 3/4" spar? Shoul
      d I do both? Rear only? Neither?
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
TACO
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
      
      
      I, too, am a card-carrying full Colonel in the TACO organization.  I have to caution
      some of you about Mike Cuy... being a yankee, Sterling issued Mike a "green
      card" for undocumented aliens.  I'll bet he even eats salsa that comes out
      of a jar and eats tamales with the shuck still on 'em.
      
      As to transferring the outline of a wing rib plan to a board or another piece of
      paper, I used my wife's pattern tracer from her sewing stuff.  It looks like
      a miniature pizza cutter but with little teeth on the rim of the wheel.  As you
      follow the outline of your template, the wheel makes a continuous string of
      tiny holes.  You pull off your template and go over the row of holes with the
      edge of a pencil to define the line, then get a flexible stick or ship's curve
      (if you have one) along the edge and fair in a nice true dark line.  that's
      what I did on my Flying Squirrel.  I agonized over getting it exact whereas a
      quick glance at the prototype shows that the designer simply built and flew, with
      very little concern for exactitude.  His flew long ago, mine ain't yet.  Moral
      of the story: don't worry about precision.
      
      Oscar Zuniga
      Air Camper NX41CC
      San Antonio, TX
      mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
      website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Route 3/4" spar?
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
From: 
hvandervoo(at)aol.com
      
      
      Neither
      
      Hans
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net>
      Sent: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 7:09 am
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: Route 3/4" spar?
      
      
      I am have decided to use solid Sitka 3/4" spars with my Riblett ribs. 
      My questions are now as follows:should I route out the front 3/4" 
      spar? Should I do both? Rear only? Neither?
      
      
      D=======================
      ===========
      D=======================
      ===========
      D3D====3
      D=======================
      ===========
      D=======================
      ===========
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Ed G." <flyboy_120(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
Route 3/4" spar?
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
      
      
      Niether....
      
      
      >From: Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net>
      >Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      >To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      >Subject: Pietenpol-List: Route 3/4" spar?
      >Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 05:09:21 -0700 (PDT)
      >
      >I am have decided to use solid Sitka 3/4" spars with my Riblett ribs. My 
      >questions are now as follows:should I route out the front 3/4" spar? 
      >Should I do both? Rear only? Neither?
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
HelsperSew(at)aol.com
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
Subject: 
Re: Route 3/4" spar?
      
      Neither  
      
      Dan  Helsper
      Poplar Grove, IL.
      
      
      **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
      Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
      (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00050000000017 )
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
From: 
"Rick Holland" <at7000ft(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Route 3/4" spar?
      
      None of the above.
      
      On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 6:09 AM, Michael Perez wrote:
      
      > I am have decided to use solid Sitka 3/4" spars with my Riblett ribs. My
      > questions are now as follows: should I route out the front 3/4" spar? Should
      > I do both? Rear only? Neither?
      >
      > *
      >
      > *
      >
      >
      
      
      -- 
      Rick Holland
      Castle Rock, Colorado
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Aileron hinge
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
From: 
"Jack T. Textor" <jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com>
      
      Awhile back, on another subject, someone stated they installed their
      aileron hinge before cutting the aileron free.  I'm trying to figure out
      how to do that.  Was it a temporary attachment?  Also, after temporarily
      mounting the hinge, have people had problems with a fit after covering?
      I'm planning on using a full length piano hinge.  If it binds, I will
      cut into sections after it is attached.
      
      Thanks,
      
      Jack
      
      www.textors.com  
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Ed G." <flyboy_120(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
Aileron hinge
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
      
      
      Hi Jack......I installed my hinges before cutting the aileron free from the 
      wing. It worked out great, BUT, I used the modified strap hinges as per the 
      plans. They will simply poke through a slot in the fabric when covered. I 
      don't see how you would be able to fit up a piano hinge before cutting the 
      aileron free....   Ed Grentzer
      
      
      >From: "Jack T. Textor" <jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com>
      >Reply-To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      >To: 
      >Subject: Pietenpol-List: Aileron hinge
      >Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2008 09:33:38 -0500
      >
      >Awhile back, on another subject, someone stated they installed their
      >aileron hinge before cutting the aileron free.  I'm trying to figure out
      >how to do that.  Was it a temporary attachment?  Also, after temporarily
      >mounting the hinge, have people had problems with a fit after covering?
      >I'm planning on using a full length piano hinge.  If it binds, I will
      >cut into sections after it is attached.
      >
      >Thanks,
      >
      >Jack
      >
      >www.textors.com
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
From: 
Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: 
Re: Route 3/4" spar?
      
      So, what you guys are trying to tell me is to route both spars down to 1/4"
       and use lots of lightning holes?-- 
      -
      Thanks for the replys. Sounds like solid it is.
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
From: 
"David Jones" <planecrazy2020(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Waldo Update
      
      Tim,
      
      I just called the phone number for Belle & Blade War Video (www.warshows.com)
      [1-800-365-2104] and spoke to Linda concerning "The Great Waldo Pepper"
      movie DVD.  She said that it is in stock for $32.00 (imported from Germany)
      and to call her and ask for the movie and it is not listed on the web site
      or catalog currently, they need to update.
      
      I've been trying to find the old TV series "The Tales of the Golden Monkey"
      which Linda is working on.  Does anyone remember this series about 25 years
      ago?
      
      Good Luck,
      David
      
      On Wed, Aug 13, 2008 at 6:24 PM, Tim Verthein
      wrote:
      
      > minoxphotographer(at)yahoo.com>
      >
      > Egad David! You must have hit it lucky. I went to warshows.com and looked
      > up the Great Waldo Pepper.  Here's the listing:
      > "GREAT WALDO PEPPER
      > SKU: AC54,AC54DVD
      > (1975) Lots of flying and lots of fun in this great Redford flying festival
      > film. Robert Redford, Bo Svenson. 107 min. This title has been out of print
      > for awhile. Available on VHS (MAY BE USED), AND DVD
      > PRICE: $99.98
      > $99.98 VHS
      > $99.98 DVD"
      >
      > I consider sending out freebie copies to be a service to the aviation
      > community and a somewhat slap in the face to the movie company and
      > collectors. This is the sort of movie that generally winds up in sale bins
      > at walmart for $5 that nobody buys because they've never heard of it. For
      > some reason it's been out of print for years.
      >
      > I've mailed out a mountain of these the past few days and if you're one of
      > those who e-mailed me for one you should have it shortly. Enjoy them.  If
      > you didn't email me for one but posted to the list only, I *may* miss you.
      >
      > Tim in Bovey
      >
      > Gentleman,
      >
      >      I bought a copy of the Waldo Pepper DVD while at Oshkosh for $32.00
      > (New).
      >      The vendor imports the DVD's from Germany.  The DVD cover is in
      > German, but
      >      the movie is in English.  The movie is titled "Tollkuhne Flieger" with
      >      Robert Redford.  If anyone is interested go to www.warshows.com
      >      or call at 1-973-328-8488.
      >
      >      Take care,
      >      David
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
From: 
"walt" <waltdak(at)verizon.net>
Subject: 
Re: Aileron hinge
      
      Jack,
      Can't remember the details, but I cut the aileron away before installing 
      the hinge. Just took time to get the top edges even before securing the 
      hinge.
      I used the nutplates from AS&S inside held with tiny brass screws, that 
      I got from a hobby store. Just lay them out so they don't interfere with 
      any rib, with the spacing.
      Used flat head screws, so's not to interfere
      I had no problem with fit after I covered, then put the hinge back on.
      My full length hinge never seemed to bind at all.
      Very happy with it thanks to Mike Cuy's recomendation.
      Don't waste money on the extruded hinge. The basic rolled hinge is fine.
      That's what they use on the highspeed planes, so it's OK for us
      walt evans
      NX140DL
      
      
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Jack T. Textor 
        To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 10:33 AM
        Subject: Pietenpol-List: Aileron hinge
      
      
        Awhile back, on another subject, someone stated they installed their 
      aileron hinge before cutting the aileron free.  I'm trying to figure out 
      how to do that.  Was it a temporary attachment?  Also, after temporarily 
      mounting the hinge, have people had problems with a fit after covering?  
      I'm planning on using a full length piano hinge.  If it binds, I will 
      cut into sections after it is attached.
      
        Thanks,
      
        Jack
      
        www.textors.com  
      
         
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Michael Silvius" <silvius(at)gwi.net>
Subject: 
Re: Waldo Update
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
      
      David:
      
      Was'nt that one the one with the Grumman Mallard and the little black 
      eye Jack Russel terrier.
      
      Michael in Maine
      
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: David Jones 
      
        I've been trying to find the old TV series "The Tales of the Golden 
      Monkey" which Linda is working on.  Does anyone remember this series 
      about 25 years ago?
      
        Good Luck,
        David
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
From: 
"David Jones" <planecrazy2020(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Waldo Update
      
      Michael,
      
      Yes, that's the series.  It was set at Key West or somewhere in the
      Caribbean and they would fly from one island to another with their
      adventures.  I spoke to the people at Amazon about the subject, but never
      heard anything.
      
      Take care,
      David
      
      On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 1:23 PM, Michael Silvius  wrote:
      
      >  David:
      >
      > Was'nt that one the one with the Grumman Mallard and the little black eye
      > Jack Russel terrier.
      >
      > Michael in Maine
      >
      >
      > ----- Original Message -----
      > *From:* David Jones 
      >
      > I've been trying to find the old TV series "The Tales of the Golden Monkey"
      > which Linda is working on.  Does anyone remember this series about 25 years
      > ago?
      >
      > Good Luck,
      > David
      >
      > *
      >
      > *
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Lagowski Morrow" <jimdeb(at)charter.net>
Subject: 
Re: Aileron hinge
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
      
      I did the same thing. Works fine and flies to--Jim Lagowski
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: walt 
        To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 1:21 PM
        Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Aileron hinge
      
      
        Jack,
        Can't remember the details, but I cut the aileron away before 
      installing the hinge. Just took time to get the top edges even before 
      securing the hinge.
        I used the nutplates from AS&S inside held with tiny brass screws, 
      that I got from a hobby store. Just lay them out so they don't interfere 
      with any rib, with the spacing.
        Used flat head screws, so's not to interfere
        I had no problem with fit after I covered, then put the hinge back on.
        My full length hinge never seemed to bind at all.
        Very happy with it thanks to Mike Cuy's recomendation.
        Don't waste money on the extruded hinge. The basic rolled hinge is 
      fine.
        That's what they use on the highspeed planes, so it's OK for us
        walt evans
        NX140DL
      
      
          ----- Original Message ----- 
          From: Jack T. Textor 
          To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
          Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 10:33 AM
          Subject: Pietenpol-List: Aileron hinge
      
      
          Awhile back, on another subject, someone stated they installed their 
      aileron hinge before cutting the aileron free.  I'm trying to figure out 
      how to do that.  Was it a temporary attachment?  Also, after temporarily 
      mounting the hinge, have people had problems with a fit after covering?  
      I'm planning on using a full length piano hinge.  If it binds, I will 
      cut into sections after it is attached.
      
          Thanks,
      
          Jack
      
          www.textors.com  
      
           
      
      
      href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.mat
      ronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
      href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
      href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
      
      
      Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
      8/13/2008 4:14 PM
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Aileron hinge
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
From: 
"Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinalhealth.com>
      
      That's pretty much what I did, although I didn't trust the little brass
      screws to always hold the nutplates in place, so I epoxied them in place
      as well as screwed them on.  I followed Tony Bingelis' advice and made
      my piano hinges in multiple pieces and would NOT recommend doing it that
      way - it was a bear getting them to all line up properly and nay binding
      caused by wing deflection would be no worse than the binding caused by
      all those little hinges not being perfectly aligned with each other.
      
      
      I also used the expensive extruded hinges and would NOT recommend that
      either.  Too expensive and no benefit over the rolled hinges.  Over all,
      I really like the piano hinge installation since it also seals the gaps
      between the ailerons and the wing, but if I had it to do over again I
      would use rolled hinges and make them one-piece.
      
      
      Jack Phillips
      
      NX899JP
      
      
        _____  
      
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of walt
      Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 1:22 PM
      Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Aileron hinge
      
      
      Jack,
      
      Can't remember the details, but I cut the aileron away before installing
      the hinge. Just took time to get the top edges even before securing the
      hinge.
      
      I used the nutplates from AS&S inside held with tiny brass screws, that
      I got from a hobby store. Just lay them out so they don't interfere with
      any rib, with the spacing.
      
      Used flat head screws, so's not to interfere
      
      I had no problem with fit after I covered, then put the hinge back on.
      
      My full length hinge never seemed to bind at all.
      
      Very happy with it thanks to Mike Cuy's recomendation.
      
      Don't waste money on the extruded hinge. The basic rolled hinge is fine.
      
      That's what they use on the highspeed planes, so it's OK for us
      
      walt evans
      NX140DL
      
      
      	----- Original Message ----- 
      
      	From: Jack T. Textor <mailto:jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com>  
      
      	To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
      
      	Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 10:33 AM
      
      	Subject: Pietenpol-List: Aileron hinge
      
      	 
      
      	Awhile back, on another subject, someone stated they installed
      their aileron hinge before cutting the aileron free.  I'm trying to
      figure out how to do that.  Was it a temporary attachment?  Also, after
      temporarily mounting the hinge, have people had problems with a fit
      after covering?  I'm planning on using a full length piano hinge.  If it
      binds, I will cut into sections after it is attached.
      
      	Thanks,
      
      	Jack
      
      	www.textors.com  
      
      	 
      
      	 
      	 
      
      href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matr
      onics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
      	href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
      
      href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
      
      
      This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
      d, proprietary or otherwise private information. If you have received it in
       error, please notify the sender immediately and delete the original. Any o
      ther use of the email by you is prohibited.  Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Fr
      ancais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - Norsk - Portuguese - Svenska: w
      ww.cardinalhealth.com/legal/email
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
From: 
"Rick Holland" <at7000ft(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Route 3/4" spar?
      
      Took mine down to 1/8" (lighter that way).
      
      On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 9:29 AM, Michael Perez wrote:
      
      > So, what you guys are trying to tell me is to route both spars down to 1/4"
      > and use lots of lightning holes?
      >
      > Thanks for the replys. Sounds like solid it is.
      >
      > *
      >
      > *
      >
      >
      
      
      -- 
      Rick Holland
      Castle Rock, Colorado
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Aileron hinges
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
From: 
"Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC]" <michael.d.cuy(at)nasa.gov>
      
      Jack, 
      
      I cut both ailerons free, sanded the faces smooth then installed the
      piano hinge and nut plates ala Walt Evan's and others
      (seen in upper portion of photo along with coiled up aileron cables)
      using aluminum extruded piano hinge.  I believe you could
      use formed hinges rather than extruded but Bingelis said the extruded
      ones are more reliable if aileron flutter is encountered. 
      (then again aileron flutter to a Pietenpol is probably about as chancy
      as having excess rates of climb) 
      
      I used full-length hinges as I believe it is more difficult to align
      sections of them so I steered clear of that method---plus if you use
      the full-span you essentially have a gap-filler there where you make the
      hinge top/line even with the top of the wing and the aileron
      eliminating the necessity of putting clear tape or matching fabric tape
      over that gap to keep the aileron effectiveness up. 
      
      Mike C. 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
HelsperSew(at)aol.com
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
Subject: 
Re: Aileron hinges
      
      Mike,
      
      What are those two parallel pieces running down the center of your wing  that 
      look like wood cap strip material?  
      
      Dan  Helsper
      Poplar Grove, IL.
      
      
      **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
      Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
      (http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
in lieu of inter-rib lacing tape....wing bay explaination
      
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
From: 
"Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC]" <michael.d.cuy(at)nasa.gov>
      
      
      Dan, 
      
      Good eyes.   That is capstrip material glued the length of the wing ribs
      to help stabilize the ribs and keep them in position
      under the forces they experience when you heat taughten your dacron
      fabric.    The standard practice is/was to wrap and then
      criss-cross inter-rib-lacing tape (like basements have X's in between
      floor joists ?)  to help hold the ribs in place but I'm told
      that mice like to eat that stuff and it tends to deteriorate over time.
      Frank Pavliga advised me to simply glue in strips of
      leftover capstrip material (actually I think I just ordered more to do
      this job) for this purpose and it worked out great. 
      
      One additional comment--I was really surprised by all of the creaking
      and groaning that the wood did as I tightened the
      fabric with my iron at the three increasingly higher shrink
      temperatures.    Fabric is powerful.  
      
      Mike C. 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Jim Markle" <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: 
Re: Aileron hinges
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
      
      oh oh....someone doesn't have the video....
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: HelsperSew(at)aol.com 
        To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 3:23 PM
        Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Aileron hinges
      
      
        Mike,
      
        What are those two parallel pieces running down the center of your 
      wing that look like wood cap strip material? 
      
        Dan Helsper
        Poplar Grove, IL.
      
      
      -------------------------------------------------------------------------
      -----
        Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read 
      reviews on AOL Autos.
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Barry Davis" <bed(at)mindspring.com>
Subject: 
Re: Route 3/4" spar?
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
      
      Just don't use spars at all. It will be really light.
      
      Seriously, Ok to route 1", I wouldn't route 3/4"
      Barry
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Rick Holland 
        To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 3:11 PM
        Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Route 3/4" spar?
      
      
        Took mine down to 1/8" (lighter that way).
      
      
        On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 9:29 AM, Michael Perez 
       wrote:
      
                So, what you guys are trying to tell me is to route both spars 
      down to 1/4" and use lots of lightning holes?   
      
                Thanks for the replys. Sounds like solid it is. 
      
      
        -- 
        Rick Holland
        Castle Rock, Colorado
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Gene Rambo" <GeneRambo(at)msn.com>
Subject: 
Re: Waldo Update
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
      
      Yea, it was about some guys in the South Pacific flying around. I would 
      think they would have it, though, it wasn't THAT unknown at the time.
      
      Gene
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: David Jones<mailto:planecrazy2020(at)gmail.com> 
        To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 2:11 PM
        Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Waldo Update
      
      
        Michael,
      
        Yes, that's the series.  It was set at Key West or somewhere in the 
      Caribbean and they would fly from one island to another with their 
      adventures.  I spoke to the people at Amazon about the subject, but 
      never heard anything.
      
        Take care,
        David
      
      
        On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 1:23 PM, Michael Silvius 
      > wrote:
      
          David:
      
          Was'nt that one the one with the Grumman Mallard and the little 
      black eye Jack Russel terrier.
      
          Michael in Maine
      
            ----- Original Message ----- 
            From: David Jones<mailto:planecrazy2020(at)gmail.com> 
      
            I've been trying to find the old TV series "The Tales of the 
      Golden Monkey" which Linda is working on.  Does anyone remember this 
      series about 25 years ago?
      
            Good Luck,
            David
      
      
      http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
      m/Navigator?Pietenpol-List>
      http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      on>
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
From: 
"KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP" <kmheidecpo(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 
John Deere alternator
      
      Fellow Pieter's.......
      -
      I have a brand new (in-the-box) never opened John Deere Alternator for sale
      . It is the one recommended by William Wynne for the Corvair installation. 
      It retails for $260.10......anyone interested?.....200.00 and it is yours!
      
      -
      701-793-3030 or email me
      
      Kenneth M. Heide, BA, CPO, FAAOP 
      
      -
      
      =0A=0A=0A      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
From: 
H RULE <harvey.rule(at)rogers.com>
Subject: 
Re: tenpol-List:spark plugs
      
      
      Maybe some of you guys have run into this but it's my first time
       and I have to say if the right person had not come along at the
       right time it would have cost me a bundle.I changed the harness 
      and then I was in the process of changinging the spark plugs when
      the AME(aircraft maintenance engineer)came up to me and asked what
       I was doing.I said I'm changing the plugs but I'm convinced that's
      not the problem and that it was the mags were going bad.He said"what's
       the gap your using?" I said .25 and he said use .15;that mag can't keep
       up with the .25 and it will fail.I do as he said because he said they
       use the same gap in the tow plane and it works fine.Now shes running 
      like a sowing machine.I took her up for a flight and it was glorious.
      I owe that guy a lot and he never even hung around for a thankyou.
      Next time I see him I'll have to find out what his poison is!Now you 
      know ;check the spark plug gap when things get rough or don't work at all.
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: tenpol-List:spark plugs
From: 
"skellytown flyer" <rhano(at)att.net>
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
      
      
      yes a lot of the mags need a small gap-another tip-if you have the mag off-don't
      spin it unless the plug contacts are grounded or crank the engine with the wires
      off and the ignition on unless the wires are grounded.another way to cook
      it.Raymond
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198661#198661
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
old engine for sale
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
      
      
      Hello, Pieters; I got an email from a gent who asked that I post this for anyone
      who might be interested.  I know nothing else about this engine.
      --------------------------
      This is an estate sale of old aircraft and parts that are up for bid. I saw this engine and thought that perhaps someone might find it to be of interest and perhaps even of use: http://www.dtroneaircraftcollection.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=38&Itemid=40 12. 
      
      Globe Aero engine - "1930", 50 h.p., air-cooled, upright, 4-cylinder; uses many
      Ford model A parts; no accessories. (A conversation piece) Included is the July
      1930 "Aero Digest" article showing photos and drawings and giving performance
      data and full descriptions of the engine and its parts. A copy of the article
      in the March 1997 "Experimenter", titled "Light Plane Heritage: Liquid or Air
      Cooling?" with photos and description of the Globe is also included. Appraised
      value $1,500. There's a couple of pictures of the engine on the site. It's
      a four-cylinder, air-cooled engine. It appears to have one magneto and a single
      updraft carburetor. The rockers are exposed. There's a swing-out engine mount
      attached. No prop hub is visible. I have no connection to the sale and just
      happened across the listing. Regards to all,David PauleBoulder, CO 
      ----------------
      
      Oscar Zuniga
      San Antonio, TX
      mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
      website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
From: 
"Ryan Mueller" <rmueller23(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: old engine for sale
      
      This engine is part of Denny Trone's collection that is up for sale. Denny
      was a fixture at Brodhead, who passed on in the crash of a Dormoy Bathtub a
      couple months ago. I had the opportunity to be given a short tour of his
      collection a number of years back, and it was pretty amazing. I would
      recommend going to the site and browsing through the items for sale. There
      are numerous pictures of each item, be it aircraft or engine, and a short
      history of each as well. There are many one of a kind antique aircraft and
      engines in there. Pretty neat.
      
      Ryan
      
      On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 9:39 PM, Oscar Zuniga  wrote:
      
      >
      >
      > Hello, Pieters; I got an email from a gent who asked that I post this for
      > anyone who might be interested.  I know nothing else about this engine.
      > --------------------------
      > This is an estate sale of old aircraft and parts that are up for bid. I saw
      > this engine and thought that perhaps someone might find it to be of interest
      > and perhaps even of use:
      > http://www.dtroneaircraftcollection.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=38&Itemid=4012.
      >
      > Globe Aero engine - "1930", 50 h.p., air-cooled, upright, 4-cylinder; uses
      > many Ford model A parts; no accessories. (A conversation piece) Included is
      > the July 1930 "Aero Digest" article showing photos and drawings and giving
      > performance data and full descriptions of the engine and its parts. A copy
      > of the article in the March 1997 "Experimenter", titled "Light Plane
      > Heritage: Liquid or Air Cooling?" with photos and description of the Globe
      > is also included. Appraised value $1,500. There's a couple of pictures of
      > the engine on the site. It's a four-cylinder, air-cooled engine. It appears
      > to have one magneto and a single updraft carburetor. The rockers are
      > exposed. There's a swing-out engine mount attached. No prop hub is visible.
      > I have no connection to the sale and just happened across the listing.
      > Regards to all,David PauleBoulder, CO
      > ----------------
      >
      > Oscar Zuniga
      > San Antonio, TX
      > mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
      > website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
From: 
"walt" <waltdak(at)verizon.net>
Subject: 
Re: tenpol-List:spark plugs
      
      Yeah,
      Eismann mag's use .018"
      walt evans
      NX140DL
      
      
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: H RULE 
        To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 9:35 PM
        Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List:spark plugs
      
      
      Maybe some of you guys have run into this but it's my first time and I 
      have to say if the right person had not come along at the right time it 
      would have cost me a bundle.I changed the harness and then I was in the 
      process of changinging the spark plugs whenthe AME(aircraft maintenance 
      engineer)came up to me and asked what I was doing.I said I'm changing 
      the plugs but I'm convinced that'snot the problem and that it was the 
      mags were going bad.He said"what's the gap your using?" I said .25 and 
      he said use .15;that mag can't
       keep up with the .25 and it will fail.I do as he said because he said 
      they use the same gap in the tow plane and it works fine.Now shes 
      running like a sowing machine.I took her up for a flight and it was 
      glorious.I owe that guy a lot and he never even hung around for a 
      thankyou.Next time I see him I'll have to find out what his poison 
      is!Now you know ;check the spark plug gap when things get rough or don't 
      work at all.
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
From: 
"walt" <waltdak(at)verizon.net>
Subject: 
Re: tenpol-List:spark plugs
      
      Sorry "Eisemann"
      walt evans
      NX140DL
      
      
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: H RULE 
        To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 9:35 PM
        Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List:spark plugs
      
      
      Maybe some of you guys have run into this but it's my first time and I 
      have to say if the right person had not come along at the right time it 
      would have cost me a bundle.I changed the harness and then I was in the 
      process of changinging the spark plugs whenthe AME(aircraft maintenance 
      engineer)came up to me and asked what I was doing.I said I'm changing 
      the plugs but I'm convinced that'snot the problem and that it was the 
      mags were going bad.He said"what's the gap your using?" I said .25 and 
      he said use .15;that mag can't
       keep up with the .25 and it will fail.I do as he said because he said 
      they use the same gap in the tow plane and it works fine.Now shes 
      running like a sowing machine.I took her up for a flight and it was 
      glorious.I owe that guy a lot and he never even hung around for a 
      thankyou.Next time I see him I'll have to find out what his poison 
      is!Now you know ;check the spark plug gap when things get rough or don't 
      work at all.
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: 
Re: Waldo Update
Date: 
Aug 14, 2008
      
      Anything with a Grumman Goose Bug Smasher in it has
      got to be good!
      
      I've kicked myself many times for not taping it.
      
      
      http://www.goldmonkey.com/
      
      http://www.warlockvideos.com/talesofthegoldmonkey.html?gclid=CNqK_diQj5
      UCFREUiQodAj4Ugw
      
      http://www.scifi2k.com/monkey/monkey.html
      
      http://dvd.search.ebay.com/Tales-Of-The-Gold-Monkey_DVDs-Movies_W0QQbsZSe
      archQQcoactionZcompareQQcoentrypageZsearchQQcopagenumZ1QQfposZV3RQ204B8QQ
      fsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQfstypeZ1QQftrtZ1QQftrvZ1QQsacatZ11232QQsadisZ200QQsargnZQ
      2d1QQsaslcZ2QQsatitleZQ22TalesQ20OfQ20TheQ20GoldQ20MonkeyQ22QQsofocusZunk
      nown
      
      I've never used anything like this myself but here it is.
      
      http://www.downloadnova.com/member-files/Tales%2Bof%2Bthe%2BGold%2BMonkey
      %2B-%2BSeason%2B1.html
      
      http://members.aol.com/thegneech/goose.htm
      
      Have fun!
      
      Clif
      
      So why did bush operators like the goose?
      
      
        --- Original Message ----- 
        From: David Jones 
        To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 11:11 AM
        Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Waldo Update
      
      
        Michael,
      
        Yes, that's the series.  It was set at Key West or somewhere in the 
      Caribbean and they would fly from one island to another with their 
      adventures.  I spoke to the people at Amazon about the subject, but 
      never heard anything.
      
        Take care,
        David
      
      
        On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 1:23 PM, Michael Silvius  
      wrote:
      
          David:
      
          Was'nt that one the one with the Grumman Mallard and the little 
      black eye Jack Russel terrier.
      
          Michael in Maine
      
            ----- Original Message ----- 
            From: David Jones 
      
            I've been trying to find the old TV series "The Tales of the 
      Golden Monkey" which Linda is working on.  Does anyone remember this 
      series about 25 years ago?
      
            Good Luck,
            David
      
      
      Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
      8/14/2008 6:03 PM
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Robert Gow" <rgow(at)avionicsdesign.ca>
Subject: 
built-up spar
Date: 
Aug 15, 2008
      
      In my case I've decided to use a built up spar (3 piece wing)   I do not
      have enough material to fill in the sections that were supposed to be solid.
      Should I get more spar material or just use something local like #1 pine or
      ash or oak?
      
      Bob
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
built-up spar
Date: 
Aug 15, 2008
From: 
"Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinalhealth.com>
      
      I you use Ash, you will probably set a record for the heaviest Pietenpol
      spar ever built.  Sitkas Spruce weighs 27 lbs/cu. ft.  Ash weighs 42
      lbs/ cu. ft.
      
      
      Jack Phillips
      
      NX899JP
      
      
        _____  
      
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert
      Gow
      Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 9:08 AM
      Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: built-up spar
      
      
      In my case I've decided to use a built up spar (3 piece wing)   I do not
      have enough material to fill in the sections that were supposed to be
      solid. Should I get more spar material or just use something local like
      #1 pine or ash or oak?
      
      
      Bob
      
      	 
      
      
      _________________________________________________
      
      This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
      d, proprietary
      or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please 
      notify the sender
      immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is p
      rohibited.
      
      Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
      orsk - Portuguese
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 15, 2008
From: 
"David Jones" <planecrazy2020(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Waldo Update
      
      Clif,
      
      Good Job! Thanks,  How did you get this info?
      
      David
      
      On Fri, Aug 15, 2008 at 1:45 AM, Clif Dawson  wrote:
      
      >  Anything with a Grumman Goose Bug Smasher in it has
      > got to be good!
      >
      > I've kicked myself many times for not taping it.
      >
      >
      > http://www.goldmonkey.com/
      >
      >
      > http://www.warlockvideos.com/talesofthegoldmonkey.html?gclid=CNqK_diQj5UCFREUiQodAj4Ugw
      >
      > http://www.scifi2k.com/monkey/monkey.html
      >
      >
      > http://dvd.search.ebay.com/Tales-Of-The-Gold-Monkey_DVDs-Movies_W0QQbsZSearchQQcoactionZcompareQQcoentrypageZsearchQQcopagenumZ1QQfposZV3RQ204B8QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQfstypeZ1QQftrtZ1QQftrvZ1QQsacatZ11232QQsadisZ200QQsargnZQ2d1QQsaslcZ2QQsatitleZQ22TalesQ20OfQ20TheQ20GoldQ20MonkeyQ22QQsofocusZunknown
      >
      > I've never used anything like this myself but here it is.
      >
      >
      > http://www.downloadnova.com/member-files/Tales%2Bof%2Bthe%2BGold%2BMonkey%2B-%2BSeason%2B1.html
      >
      > http://members.aol.com/thegneech/goose.htm
      >
      > Have fun!
      >
      > Clif
      >
      > So why did bush operators like the goose?
      >
      >
      > --- Original Message -----
      > *From:* David Jones 
      > *To:* pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      > *Sent:* Thursday, August 14, 2008 11:11 AM
      > *Subject:* Re: Pietenpol-List: Waldo Update
      >
      > Michael,
      >
      > Yes, that's the series.  It was set at Key West or somewhere in the
      > Caribbean and they would fly from one island to another with their
      > adventures.  I spoke to the people at Amazon about the subject, but never
      > heard anything.
      >
      > Take care,
      > David
      >
      > On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 1:23 PM, Michael Silvius  wrote:
      >
      >>  David:
      >>
      >> Was'nt that one the one with the Grumman Mallard and the little black eye
      >> Jack Russel terrier.
      >>
      >> Michael in Maine
      >>
      >>
      >> ----- Original Message -----
      >> *From:* David Jones 
      >>
      >> I've been trying to find the old TV series "The Tales of the Golden
      >> Monkey" which Linda is working on.  Does anyone remember this series about
      >> 25 years ago?
      >>
      >> Good Luck,
      >> David
      >>
      >> *
      >>
      >> *
      >>
      >>
      > *
      >
      > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
      > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
      > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
      >
      > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
      > 8/14/2008 6:03 PM*
      >
      > *
      >
      > *
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Peter W Johnson" <vk3eka(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: 
built-up spar
Date: 
Aug 15, 2008
      
      Bob,
      
      
      I used spruce for my "blocking in" sections, ash or oak may be a bit heavy.
      
      
      Cheers
      
      
      Peter
      
      Wonthaggi Australia
      
      http://www.cpc-world.com  
      
      
        _____  
      
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert Gow
      Sent: Friday, 15 August 2008 11:08 PM
      Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: built-up spar
      
      
      In my case I've decided to use a built up spar (3 piece wing)   I do not
      have enough material to fill in the sections that were supposed to be solid.
      Should I get more spar material or just use something local like #1 pine or
      ash or oak?
      
      
      Bob
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Robert Gow" <rgow(at)avionicsdesign.ca>
Subject: 
built-up spar
Date: 
Aug 15, 2008
      
      Thanks.
        -----Original Message-----
        From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Peter W
      Johnson
        Sent: August 15, 2008 9:55 AM
        To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
        Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: built-up spar
      
      
        Bob,
      
      
        I used spruce for my "blocking in" sections, ash or oak may be a bit
      heavy.
      
      
        Cheers
      
      
        Peter
      
        Wonthaggi Australia
      
        http://www.cpc-world.com
      
      
      ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
      --
      
        From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert Gow
        Sent: Friday, 15 August 2008 11:08 PM
        To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
        Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: built-up spar
      
      
        In my case I've decided to use a built up spar (3 piece wing)   I do not
      have enough material to fill in the sections that were supposed to be solid.
      Should I get more spar material or just use something local like #1 pine or
      ash or oak?
      
      
        Bob
      
      
        http://www.matronics.com/contribution
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
built-up spar
Date: 
Aug 15, 2008
From: 
"Jack T. Textor" <jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com>
      
      Bob,
      
      I built...built up spars, take a look at my site and the attached
      drawing.  I used 7 ply marine plywood and Douglas fir.
      
      Jack
      
      www.textors.com
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: built-up spar
From: 
"JohnC" <jcalvert(at)trinityvideo.net>
Date: 
Aug 15, 2008
      
      
      Hey Jack, did you use okoume, mahogany, or birch? What types and sizes of plywood
      have others used as web for spars? I am looking to go pick up some spruce next
      week and place an order for plywood. Thanks in advance for any suggestion
      or comments.
      
      --------
      I just hope when it's my turn to reach up and touch the face of God, I don't poke
      him in the eye on accident.
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198729#198729
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: built-up spar
Date: 
Aug 15, 2008
From: 
"Jack T. Textor" <jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com>
      
      
      John,
      If I remember correctly it was Meranti BS1088 which is heavier and more
      solid than Okume.  About 28# for a 4x8 sheet.
      Jack
      www.textors.com
      
      
      Hey Jack, did you use okoume, mahogany, or birch? What types and sizes
      of plywood have others used as web for spars? I am looking to go pick up
      some spruce next week and place an order for plywood. Thanks in advance
      for any suggestion or comments.
      
      --------
      I just hope when it's my turn to reach up and touch the face of God, I
      don't poke him in the eye on accident.
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=198729#198729
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Roy Brooks <n900ml(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
tenpol-List:
Date: 
Aug 15, 2008
      
      
      Sorry for the delay. I've had some
      problems and asked Oscar to help post some info about my project and
      parts. My hands are injured=2C and hard to type=2C sorry for the "form
      letter" but the below info basically states the "Who=2C What=2C When and
      Why"... I am sending this to all who have inquired. If you see it again
      as posted by Oscar=2C I apologize. Also=2C I won't be much help in loading
      this stuff=2C so I would advise to bring a friend and a suitable trailer.
      
      
      Oscar:
      
      
      I'm having fits responding to people on the Piet list who have asked off-li
      ne questions about my engine and Piet project.
      
      
      Can you send this out=2C with my apology that I've turned into an old fart 
      on a farm that is binary challenged? I just can't get my poop out on the Pi
      etenpol list for some reason and I've had a lot of e-mail about this stuff.
      
      
      Part
      of the reason I can't respond individually to each inquiry is I am in
      so much pain from arthritis and I jumped into break up a SECONDdog
      fight in May=2C and my hands are injured and shoulder hurts. The
      first dog fight sent me to the emergency room. I learned it's best to
      pull off one dog at a time and lock them up somewhere=2C rather than jump
      in the middle and try to stop 7 dogs!  ( i rescue abandoned dogs... See
      YouTube and type in "Winters Texas" and look for the abandoned mother
      dog and her pups... I have 10 dogs and am trying to find homes for most
      of them.)
      
      
      I got a shot of
      Decadron and Medrol today=2C I start Predisone tomorrow and Celebrex
      after the Predisone=2C so I hope to be feeling much better in a couple of
      weeks... It just hurts to type and I haven't been up to sending out
      individual=2C personal e-mails. I'd starve to death if I were a homeless
      person on a corner somewhere. I hurt too much to hold up a sign
      'HOMELESS=2C NEED TACOS AND CORONA=2C GOD BLESS YOU'.
      
      
      I plan on
      cleaning up my hanger when I get back on my feet=2C and when it cools off
      (and if the diverticulitis calms down with the Predisone) and I will
      organize all my stuff I am selling=2C provide a better description and
      I'll post everything on YouTube with commentary. This might not happen
      until cooler weather hits=2C maybe in about 5 weeks. My hanger is like an
      oven and I think the heat exacerbates the diveticulitis.
      
      
      Prior
      to getting the info out on YouTube=2C I'll invite any and all to come out
      and take a sneak preview in the hanger BEFORE I put this all on EBAY=2C
      if they wish to see it up-close and in person. I don't even know what
      amount to ask=2C but I have to go through my engine receipts=2C see how
      many THOUSANDS I have in rebuilding this engine (that was advertised to
      me as having only 5 hours SMOH=2C he should have said the SWWO=2C 'WORLD'S
      WORST OVERHAUL')
      
      
      I think by putting this on Ebay with an honest
      description=2C the goods will bring fair-market-value=2C and I won't have
      to dicker with the price.
      
      
      I also will be selling my Cessna
      150/150 having a 160 horsepower Lycoming 0-320 E2D that CAN EMBARRASS
      any Cessna 172 out there. More on the Cessna later when I get it on
      YouTube. The farm more than likely (my paradise with a grass strip=2C
      5TA6) will be the last thing to go.
      
      
      But for now=2C I ask everyone to please be patient and understand I just ca
      n't do much e-mail at this time. 
      
      
      Date: Wed=2C 13 Aug 2008 07:57:46 -0700
      From: speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net
      Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List:
      
      Roy=2C I am sorry for the loss of your father and the drive to finish this 
      project. It is understandable...life will jack you pretty hard at times and
       the unforseen futer is always changing. I wish you and yours the best and 
      hope that maybe someday=2C the "building bug" will visit you again.
      
      I am new to this project and am just now getting my wing jigs made. I am al
      ways looking to purchase what I will need in the future...engine included. 
      If the engine does not sell with the plane=2C I would be interested in talk
      ing to you about purchasing it. Please let me know=2C when you know. Thanks
      .
      
      --- On Wed=2C 8/13/08=2C Roy Brooks  wrote:
      
      From: Roy Brooks <n900ml(at)hotmail.com>
      Subject: Pietenpol-List:
      Date: Wednesday=2C August 13=2C 2008=2C 10:07 AM
      
      
      As much as I hate to... I'll be selling my Piet project in a couple of week
      s=2C probably putting it on Ebay starting the auction as some very low pric
      e.
      
      Several years ago=2C I bought a project from a guy who was an Air Force mai
      ntenance officer on both the B-1 and B-2 aircraft. He also is an A&P/IA=2C 
      moved a few times=2C took a job with Cessna after getting out of the milita
      ry... 
      
      I bought this about 5 years ago and had plans to finish it with my father
      =2C but soon after I brought it home=2C my dad passed away=2C thus the proj
      ect has been gathering dust in my hanger here in Central Texas. 
      
      It was originally set up for a Corvair=2C but I had planned on putting my C
      ontinental A-80 on it. The fabric was pulled back off the front of the fuse
      lage and probably needs to be completely replaced. It is a Piet fuselage wi
      th Grega wings. The original builder wanted the Grega wings because of the 
      different stall characteristics=2C but he wanted the "looks" of
       a Pietenpol and built the fuselage from the Piet plans.
      
      The wings are covered and painted and it has an "number" already on the win
      gs=2C but they can be easily painted over.
      
      It has Honda CB 350 wheels (they look pretty cool) and I had them powder co
      ated red (I had planned on painting a Texas flag design or total red for th
      is project.)
      
      The center section was already built=2C but I removed the fabric and lower 
      plywood with the intention of installing a small supplemental fuel tank... 
      I have new plywood and fabric to recover. My dad said there needs to be som
      e washers welded onto the metal tabs that attach to the wings. I don't know
       why these were omitted by the original builder.
      
      The lift struts are ready to go and I have all the cables. 
      
      The instrument panel IS NOT INCLUDED. I have a small fortune in the panel a
      nd I am keeping it (pilot and passenger both) I paid a lot of money for "pr
      emium carpathian burl elm" veneer that I
       laminated in a vacuum bag=2C and it looks like it belongs in a 1930-ish Ro
      lls Royce. Again=2C the panel and gauges are not for sale=2C please don't a
      sk.
      
      If anybody is interested=2C please e-mail me off this list at "N900ML@HOTMA
      IL.COM" and I can provide more info and pictures. I won't be able to send a
      ny recent pictures anytime soon=2C but can do so sometime in mid September.
      
      
      I'll also be selling the rebuilt A-80 engine FOR PARTS ONLY. I don't want t
      he liability if someone goes flying and they nose in someday. My dad rebuil
      t the engine (he had an A&P license) and I simply want the engine to go as 
      a "parts project" with the buyer signing a bill of sale stating this.
      The engine case was sent to Divco for a rebuild. The accessory case went of
      f for repair too. The cylinders were sent off and are Cermnil (the nickel b
      ore process=2C vastly superior to channel chrome=2C satin chrome) The crank
       was rebuilt I think M03 under. New bearings new=2C rod bolts=2C
       new Slick mags with dual impulse couplers... Long story made short=2C this
       engine looks like it just came out of the Twilight Zone as if being in a t
      ime warp since 1941. I also have a rebuilt yellow tagged carb on this engin
      e and the intake tubes are powder  coated candy apple blue. The valve cover
      s are powder coated in Continental yellow... I've never seen an A-65 or A-8
      0 that is as pretty as this engine. This engine even has a new data plate t
      hat looks incredible. All the info from the old data plate was PROFESSIONAL
      LY engraved onto the new data plate. BUT AGAIN=2C I WANT TO EMPHASIZE THE E
      NGINE WILL BE SOLD ONLY WITH THE UNDERSTANDING THAT IT IS A "PARTS ENGINE
      =2C" not something that is ready to stab onto an airplane and go flying. Th
      e engine will be sold separate from the airplane project. 
      
      If anybody wants a sneak preview=2C this project can be seen at the airport
       in Ballinger=2C Texas (between San Angelo and Abilene.) I won't be able to
       show it
       until sometime in mid or late September (please don't ask to see it earlie
      r).
      
      RSB
      
      
      Got Game? Win Prizes in the Windows Live Hotmail Mobile Summer Games Trivia
       Contest Find out how. 
      
      
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D
      
      
      _________________________________________________________________
      Get ideas on sharing photos from people like you.  Find new ways to share.
      http://www.windowslive.com/explore/photogallery/posts?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_P
      hoto_Gallery_082008
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 15, 2008
From: 
Tim Verthein <minoxphotographer(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 
Sky King
      
      
      Long as we're talking about airplane shows, remember Sky King?
      
      I'm not old enough to have seen it in it's original run, but I did watch in reruns
      when I was a kid. Sky King and his niece Penny saving the west from evil doers.
      In the first season or so he flew a Cessna T-50, which was made of wood
      (the Bamboo Bomber, as I recall).  Great 50's TV.  And between my interest in
      aviation, the the fact that my Wife is from Montana, it makes for fun watching.
      And episodes ARE available VERY cheaply on Amazon, eBay, etc.
      
      I actually have an autographed 8x10 black and white glossy of Sky with "Songbird"
      hanging in my office at work.  
      
      Tim in Bovey
      
      
            
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 15, 2008
From: 
Ben Charvet <bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: 
Re: Sky King
      
      
      If you really like Sky King (or his niece Penny).  Every episode is 
      available for free on this website:  
      http://www.americanflyers.net/entertainment/skyking.asp
      
      Ben
      
      Tim Verthein wrote:
      >
      > Long as we're talking about airplane shows, remember Sky King?
      >
      > I'm not old enough to have seen it in it's original run, but I did watch in reruns
      when I was a kid. Sky King and his niece Penny saving the west from evil
      doers.  In the first season or so he flew a Cessna T-50, which was made of wood
      (the Bamboo Bomber, as I recall).  Great 50's TV.  And between my interest
      in aviation, the the fact that my Wife is from Montana, it makes for fun watching.
      And episodes ARE available VERY cheaply on Amazon, eBay, etc.
      >
      > I actually have an autographed 8x10 black and white glossy of Sky with "Songbird"
      hanging in my office at work.  
      >
      > Tim in Bovey
      >
      >
      >       
      >
      >
      >   
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
AMsafetyC(at)aol.com
Date: 
Aug 15, 2008
Subject: 
Re: Sky King
      
      That's where I was going to send him, I watch the on occasion so I can feel  
      like a kid again too. I grew up on Sky King and Mike Nelson. I love the sky 
      and  the water.....
      
      John
      
      
      In a message dated 8/15/2008 9:32:36 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
      bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net writes:
      
      -->  Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ben Charvet  
      
      If you really like Sky King (or his  niece Penny).  Every episode is 
      available for free on this  website:   
      http://www.americanflyers.net/entertainment/skyking.asp
      
      Ben
      
      Tim  Verthein wrote:
      
      >
      > Long as we're talking  about airplane shows, remember Sky King?
      >
      > I'm not old enough to  have seen it in it's original run, but I did watch 
      in reruns when I was a kid.  Sky King and his niece Penny saving the west from
      
      evil doers.  In the  first season or so he flew a Cessna T-50, which was made 
      of wood (the Bamboo  Bomber, as I recall).  Great 50's TV.  And between my 
      interest in  aviation, the the fact that my Wife is from Montana, it makes for
      
      fun  watching.  And episodes ARE available VERY cheaply on Amazon, eBay,  etc.
      >
      > I actually have an autographed 8x10 black and white  glossy of Sky with 
      "Songbird" hanging in my office at work.   
      >
      > Tim in Bovey
      >
      >
      >      
      >
      >
      >    
      
      
      **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
      Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
      (http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: 
Re: Waldo Update
Date: 
Aug 15, 2008
      
      Thanks, The Gneech I've had in my favourites for
      years, Tales I found a while back and the others
      came from a google search, " tales of the gold monkey".
      
      There's a lot more sites out there.
      
      There was an animated Saturday morning kiddies
      takeoff on the Gold Monkey also.
      
      So, no biters on the bushplane thing? :-)
      
      Clif
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: David Jones 
        To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 6:52 AM
        Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Waldo Update
      
      
        Clif,
      
        Good Job! Thanks,  How did you get this info?
      
        David
      
      
        On Fri, Aug 15, 2008 at 1:45 AM, Clif Dawson  
      wrote:
      
          Anything with a Grumman Goose Bug Smasher in it has
          got to be good!
      
          I've kicked myself many times for not taping it.
      
      
          http://www.goldmonkey.com/
      
          
      http://www.warlockvideos.com/talesofthegoldmonkey.html?gclid=CNqK_diQj5
      UCFREUiQodAj4Ugw
      
          http://www.scifi2k.com/monkey/monkey.html
      
          
      http://dvd.search.ebay.com/Tales-Of-The-Gold-Monkey_DVDs-Movies_W0QQbsZSe
      archQQcoactionZcompareQQcoentrypageZsearchQQcopagenumZ1QQfposZV3RQ204B8QQ
      fsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQfstypeZ1QQftrtZ1QQftrvZ1QQsacatZ11232QQsadisZ200QQsargnZQ
      2d1QQsaslcZ2QQsatitleZQ22TalesQ20OfQ20TheQ20GoldQ20MonkeyQ22QQsofocusZunk
      nown
      
          I've never used anything like this myself but here it is.
      
          
      http://www.downloadnova.com/member-files/Tales%2Bof%2Bthe%2BGold%2BMonkey
      %2B-%2BSeason%2B1.html
      
          http://members.aol.com/thegneech/goose.htm
      
          Have fun!
      
          Clif
      
          So why did bush operators like the goose?
      
      
            --- Original Message ----- 
            From: David Jones 
            To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
            Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 11:11 AM
            Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Waldo Update
      
      
            Michael,
      
            Yes, that's the series.  It was set at Key West or somewhere in 
      the Caribbean and they would fly from one island to another with their 
      adventures.  I spoke to the people at Amazon about the subject, but 
      never heard anything.
      
            Take care,
            David
      
      
            On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 1:23 PM, Michael Silvius  
      wrote:
      
              David:
      
              Was'nt that one the one with the Grumman Mallard and the little 
      black eye Jack Russel terrier.
      
              Michael in Maine
      
                ----- Original Message ----- 
                From: David Jones 
      
                I've been trying to find the old TV series "The Tales of the 
      Golden Monkey" which Linda is working on.  Does anyone remember this 
      series about 25 years ago?
      
                Good Luck,
                David
      
      
      href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.mat
      ronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
      
      href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
      href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
      
      Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
      8/14/2008 6:03 PM
      
      
      Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
      8/15/2008 5:29 PM
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Gene & Tammy" <zharvey(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: 
Re: Waldo Update
Date: 
Aug 16, 2008
      
      The Goose they have in the show was the second Goose they tried to fly 
      out to the islands.  The first, a Goose owned and flown by a fellow from 
      Anchorage by the name of Dodge, went down with engine trouble half way 
      there.  Dodge was rescued just before it sank.  Dodge was also the pilot 
      suspected of being the one that flew a helicopter into a mexican prison 
      to get an American out.  Dodge flew a pink P51 out of Merrill Field in 
      Anchorage.  He retired as an Alaska Airlines Pilot.  He and his sons are 
      very well known in the Alaskan aviation circles.  The Goose was loved 
      for it's ability to land almost anywhere, it's performance and it's 
      payload.
      Gene
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Clif Dawson 
        To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 12:28 AM
        Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Waldo Update
      
      
        Thanks, The Gneech I've had in my favourites for
        years, Tales I found a while back and the others
        came from a google search, " tales of the gold monkey".
      
        There's a lot more sites out there.
      
        There was an animated Saturday morning kiddies
        takeoff on the Gold Monkey also.
      
        So, no biters on the bushplane thing? :-)
      
        Clif
          ----- Original Message ----- 
          From: David Jones 
          To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
          Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 6:52 AM
          Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Waldo Update
      
      
          Clif,
      
          Good Job! Thanks,  How did you get this info?
      
          David
      
      
          On Fri, Aug 15, 2008 at 1:45 AM, Clif Dawson  
      wrote:
      
            Anything with a Grumman Goose Bug Smasher in it has
            got to be good!
      
            I've kicked myself many times for not taping it.
      
      
            http://www.goldmonkey.com/
      
            
      http://www.warlockvideos.com/talesofthegoldmonkey.html?gclid=CNqK_diQj5
      UCFREUiQodAj4Ugw
      
            http://www.scifi2k.com/monkey/monkey.html
      
            
      http://dvd.search.ebay.com/Tales-Of-The-Gold-Monkey_DVDs-Movies_W0QQbsZSe
      archQQcoactionZcompareQQcoentrypageZsearchQQcopagenumZ1QQfposZV3RQ204B8QQ
      fsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQfstypeZ1QQftrtZ1QQftrvZ1QQsacatZ11232QQsadisZ200QQsargnZQ
      2d1QQsaslcZ2QQsatitleZQ22TalesQ20OfQ20TheQ20GoldQ20MonkeyQ22QQsofocusZunk
      nown
      
            I've never used anything like this myself but here it is.
      
            
      http://www.downloadnova.com/member-files/Tales%2Bof%2Bthe%2BGold%2BMonkey
      %2B-%2BSeason%2B1.html
      
            http://members.aol.com/thegneech/goose.htm
      
            Have fun!
      
            Clif
      
            So why did bush operators like the goose?
      
      
              --- Original Message ----- 
              From: David Jones 
              To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
              Sent: Thursday, August 14, 2008 11:11 AM
              Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Waldo Update
      
      
              Michael,
      
              Yes, that's the series.  It was set at Key West or somewhere in 
      the Caribbean and they would fly from one island to another with their 
      adventures.  I spoke to the people at Amazon about the subject, but 
      never heard anything.
      
              Take care,
              David
      
      
              On Thu, Aug 14, 2008 at 1:23 PM, Michael Silvius 
       wrote:
      
                David:
      
                Was'nt that one the one with the Grumman Mallard and the 
      little black eye Jack Russel terrier.
      
                Michael in Maine
      
                  ----- Original Message ----- 
                  From: David Jones 
      
                  I've been trying to find the old TV series "The Tales of the 
      Golden Monkey" which Linda is working on.  Does anyone remember this 
      series about 25 years ago?
      
                  Good Luck,
                  David
      
      
      href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.mat
      ronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
      
      href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
      href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
      
      Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
      8/14/2008 6:03 PM
      
      
      href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.mat
      ronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
      href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
      href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
      
      Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
      8/15/2008 5:29 PM
      
      
      -------------------------------------------------------------------------
      -----
      
      
        Checked by AVG. 
      8/7/2008 5:54 AM
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Lagowski Morrow" <jimdeb(at)charter.net>
Subject: 
Practice prop
Date: 
Aug 16, 2008
      
      I'm looking for a used wood prop with which I can gain experience in 
      good takeofs and landings. My first real landing resulted in a damaged 
      left gear and destroyed metal prop. Repairs are in progress and I hope 
      to be back in the air in Sept. No damage to the wings, fuselage and it 
      appears to the engine ( no abrupt prop stop ). One more engine check to 
      go.
      
      I have a gorgeous wood, custom prop given to me by a friend, but am 
      reluctant to use it until I get better at this landing thing. The 
      embarassing part is I got my taildragger rating on a Friday and smacked 
      my plane the following Monday. 
      
      Something in the low 70's in dia and low 40's pitch. Is there anything 
      out there??
      
      Jim Lagowski, NX221PT
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 16, 2008
From: 
"Ryan Mueller" <rmueller23(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: Practice prop
      
      Maybe instead of investing in an expendable prop in case it gets pranged
      again, it would be better to spend that money for some more flight training.
      Murphy states that if you spend money on an expendable prop you will then
      damage everything but the prop the next time you do something.
      
      Figure out why your incident happened, and resolve the issue. If it's a
      problem with the aircraft, fix that. If it was a problem with the pilot, fix
      that.
      
      Just out of curiosity, how was the prop destroyed without damaging the
      engine? If the prop is bent while it is not turning, that could still
      transmit a tremendous amount of force to the crankshaft. Make sure nothing
      was damaged before taking to the skies again....
      
      Ryan
      
      
      On Sat, Aug 16, 2008 at 8:17 PM, Lagowski Morrow  wrote:
      
      >  I'm looking for a used wood prop with which I can gain experience in good
      > takeofs and landings. My first real landing resulted in a damaged left gear
      > and destroyed metal prop. Repairs are in progress and I hope to be back in
      > the air in Sept. No damage to the wings, fuselage and it appears to the
      > engine ( no abrupt prop stop ). One more engine check to go.
      >
      > I have a gorgeous wood, custom prop given to me by a friend, but am
      > reluctant to use it until I get better at this landing thing. The
      > embarassing part is I got my taildragger rating on a Friday and smacked my
      > plane the following Monday.
      >
      > Something in the low 70's in dia and low 40's pitch. Is there anything out
      > there??
      >
      > Jim Lagowski, NX221PT
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Gene & Tammy" <zharvey(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: 
Re: Practice prop
Date: 
Aug 17, 2008
      
      Jim, for what it's worth, I completely agree wdith Ryan.  
      If your not already doing this on landing your Piet, try this next 
      time...Before the wheels touch add 50 to 100 rpms above idle.  Makes a 
      HUGE difference in landing a Piet.
      Gene
      N502R
      ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Ryan Mueller 
        To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 8:55 PM
        Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Practice prop
      
      
        Maybe instead of investing in an expendable prop in case it gets 
      pranged again, it would be better to spend that money for some more 
      flight training. Murphy states that if you spend money on an expendable 
      prop you will then damage everything but the prop the next time you do 
      something. 
      
        Figure out why your incident happened, and resolve the issue. If it's 
      a problem with the aircraft, fix that. If it was a problem with the 
      pilot, fix that.
      
        Just out of curiosity, how was the prop destroyed without damaging the 
      engine? If the prop is bent while it is not turning, that could still 
      transmit a tremendous amount of force to the crankshaft. Make sure 
      nothing was damaged before taking to the skies again....
      
        Ryan
      
      
        On Sat, Aug 16, 2008 at 8:17 PM, Lagowski Morrow  
      wrote:
      
          I'm looking for a used wood prop with which I can gain experience in 
      good takeofs and landings. My first real landing resulted in a damaged 
      left gear and destroyed metal prop. Repairs are in progress and I hope 
      to be back in the air in Sept. No damage to the wings, fuselage and it 
      appears to the engine ( no abrupt prop stop ). One more engine check to 
      go.
      
          I have a gorgeous wood, custom prop given to me by a friend, but am 
      reluctant to use it until I get better at this landing thing. The 
      embarassing part is I got my taildragger rating on a Friday and smacked 
      my plane the following Monday. 
      
          Something in the low 70's in dia and low 40's pitch. Is there 
      anything out there??
      
          Jim Lagowski, NX221PT
      
      
      -------------------------------------------------------------------------
      -----
      
      
        Checked by AVG. 
      8/7/2008 5:54 AM
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 17, 2008
From: 
Lawrence Williams <lnawms(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 
practice prop
      
      I'd much rather help a Piet pilot in need than page through message after m
      essage dealing with old tv shows and movies. Much of those discussions shou
      ld be one-on-one imho.
      -
      Blowing off someone in need with a "fix the pilot" line doesn't get his Pie
      t (or snowflake) back into the air. I have broken two props many hundreds o
      f miles from home and would not have gotten back so quickly if kindred spir
      its not helped me out. 
      -
      So... I have an unused spare that we could talk about if you are still in n
      eed. Please email me off site for details.
      -
      Larry W.
      -
      ps. breaking a wood prop usually does nothing bad to the engine.=0A=0A=0A  
          
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Gene & Tammy" <zharvey(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: 
Re: practice prop
Date: 
Aug 17, 2008
      
      Larry, not sure how anyone can be "blowing off someone" when they are 
      suggesting the Pilot fix the problem that led to the crash that broke 
      the prop.  Don't know how you broke two props but perhaps if you had 
      "fixed the problem" it would have been only one prop.  Just my thoughts.
      It is wonderful of you to help him out with the spare prop.  It just 
      goes to show what great folks are here on this site.
      Gene (and yes, I have broken a prop.  ONCE)
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Lawrence Williams 
        To: Pietlist 
        Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 6:49 AM
        Subject: Pietenpol-List: practice prop
      
      
              I'd much rather help a Piet pilot in need than page through 
      message after message dealing with old tv shows and movies. Much of 
      those discussions should be one-on-one imho.
      
              Blowing off someone in need with a "fix the pilot" line doesn't 
      get his Piet (or snowflake) back into the air. I have broken two props 
      many hundreds of miles from home and would not have gotten back so 
      quickly if kindred spirits not helped me out. 
      
              So... I have an unused spare that we could talk about if you are 
      still in need. Please email me off site for details.
      
              Larry W.
      
              ps. breaking a wood prop usually does nothing bad to the engine. 
      
      
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D
      
      
      -------------------------------------------------------------------------
      -----
      
      
        Checked by AVG. 
      8/7/2008 5:54 AM
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 17, 2008
From: 
"walt" <waltdak(at)verizon.net>
Subject: 
Re: Practice prop
      
      Ryan,
      I agree.
      Next it'll be a broken neck.
      If a certified plane, any prop strike is a manditory engine teardown
      walt evans
      NX140DL
      
      
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Ryan Mueller 
        To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Saturday, August 16, 2008 9:55 PM
        Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Practice prop
      
      
        Maybe instead of investing in an expendable prop in case it gets 
      pranged again, it would be better to spend that money for some more 
      flight training. Murphy states that if you spend money on an expendable 
      prop you will then damage everything but the prop the next time you do 
      something. 
      
        Figure out why your incident happened, and resolve the issue. If it's 
      a problem with the aircraft, fix that. If it was a problem with the 
      pilot, fix that.
      
        Just out of curiosity, how was the prop destroyed without damaging the 
      engine? If the prop is bent while it is not turning, that could still 
      transmit a tremendous amount of force to the crankshaft. Make sure 
      nothing was damaged before taking to the skies again....
      
        Ryan
      
      
        On Sat, Aug 16, 2008 at 8:17 PM, Lagowski Morrow  
      wrote:
      
          I'm looking for a used wood prop with which I can gain experience in 
      good takeofs and landings. My first real landing resulted in a damaged 
      left gear and destroyed metal prop. Repairs are in progress and I hope 
      to be back in the air in Sept. No damage to the wings, fuselage and it 
      appears to the engine ( no abrupt prop stop ). One more engine check to 
      go.
      
          I have a gorgeous wood, custom prop given to me by a friend, but am 
      reluctant to use it until I get better at this landing thing. The 
      embarassing part is I got my taildragger rating on a Friday and smacked 
      my plane the following Monday. 
      
          Something in the low 70's in dia and low 40's pitch. Is there 
      anything out there??
      
          Jim Lagowski, NX221PT
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 17, 2008
From: 
"Ryan Mueller" <rmueller23(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: practice prop
      
      Larry,
      
      The comment was not meant to be flippant, or blowing him off. I'm sorry if
      it came across that way.
      
      I'm just saying that before throwing another prop on and giving it a second
      shot, make sure to address the issue that caused the accident in the first
      place (be that plane or pilot). In addition, in Jim's original post he
      mentions that the prop he destroyed was a metal prop, not a wood prop. I
      would want to make absolutely sure the engine was not damaged before flying
      it again. At the very least take a runout measurement on the crank.
      Depending upon how exactly it was damaged, maybe even a teardown.
      
      And as Gene mentioned, thanks for offering up a prop for Jim. Have a good
      day,
      
      Ryan
      
      
      On Sun, Aug 17, 2008 at 6:49 AM, Lawrence Williams  wrote:
      
      > I'd much rather help a Piet pilot in need than page through message after
      > message dealing with old tv shows and movies. Much of those discussions
      > should be one-on-one imho.
      >
      > Blowing off someone in need with a "fix the pilot" line doesn't get his
      > Piet (or snowflake) back into the air. I have broken two props many hundreds
      > of miles from home and would not have gotten back so quickly if kindred
      > spirits not helped me out.
      >
      > So... I have an unused spare that we could talk about if you are still in
      > need. Please email me off site for details.
      >
      > Larry W.
      >
      > ps. breaking a wood prop usually does nothing bad to the engine.
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Lagowski Morrow" <jimdeb(at)charter.net>
Subject: 
Re: practice prop
Date: 
Aug 17, 2008
      
      Larry Williams, Thanks for the offer to help out with a prop.!!  What is 
      your personal e-mail address?--Jim Lagowski
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Lawrence Williams 
        To: Pietlist 
        Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 7:49 AM
        Subject: Pietenpol-List: practice prop
      
      
              I'd much rather help a Piet pilot in need than page through 
      message after message dealing with old tv shows and movies. Much of 
      those discussions should be one-on-one imho.
      
              Blowing off someone in need with a "fix the pilot" line doesn't 
      get his Piet (or snowflake) back into the air. I have broken two props 
      many hundreds of miles from home and would not have gotten back so 
      quickly if kindred spirits not helped me out. 
      
              So... I have an unused spare that we could talk about if you are 
      still in need. Please email me off site for details.
      
              Larry W.
      
              ps. breaking a wood prop usually does nothing bad to the engine. 
      
      
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
      3D
      
      Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
      8/15/2008 5:29 PM
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Practice prop
From: 
amsafetyc(at)aol.com
Date: 
Aug 17, 2008
      
      Tm90IHRvIGp1bXAgZGlyZWN0bHkgaW4gdGhlIG1pZGRsZSBvZiBhbGwgdGhpcyBidXQgSSBndWVz
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      DQogIFRvOiBwaWV0ZW5wb2wtbGlzdEBtYXRyb25pY3MuY29tIA0KICBTZW50OiBTYXR1cmRheSwg
      QXVndXN0IDE2LCAyMDA4IDk6NTUgUE0NCiAgU3ViamVjdDogUmU6IFBpZXRlbnBvbC1MaXN0OiBQ
      cmFjdGljZSBwcm9wDQoNCg0KICBNYXliZSBpbnN0ZWFkIG9mIGludmVzdGluZyBpbiBhbiBleHBl
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________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
prop strikes 
Date: 
Aug 17, 2008
From: 
"Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC]" <michael.d.cuy(at)nasa.gov>
      
      Nothing is mandatory on an experimental, amateur built airplane.  I used
      drywall screws in several places where they
      were not only appropriate but totally safe and functional and had no
      qualms about doing it even though they were not AN
      certified hardware. 
      
      I view prop strikes in a similar fashion where if you know (not second
      hand) the circumstances of the prop strike you can
      logically determine if the engine really warrants a tear down or not.
      Things like having a wood prop strike are far different
      from having a metal prop strike as the wood is so much more forgiving
      and absorbs great forces upon impact that help
      buffer the blow to the prop hub and crankshaft.   Low idle vs. run up
      rpm would be another big factor as well as the
      report of the dial gauge results on crankshaft runout.   If the engine
      is weak in compression numbers the past year or
      two and high time.....a prop strike, even if the dial numbers show a
      true crank, might be a good reason to take a winter
      to major an engine.    There are cases where I would (personally) not
      perform a teardown
      but if there is any doubt......tear it out.  
      
      Mike C. 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
CozyGirrrl(at)aol.com
Date: 
Aug 17, 2008
Subject: 
Re: Homemade Turnbuckles
      
      Sorry Jack for the lateness in catching up post-Brodeah/post-Oshkosh
      
      Turnbuckles... uh that would be a firm NO at this time, too many fussy  
      operations for too small a return on the time invested.
      ... plus probably too many "advisors" on this one thank you =)  Its  not that 
      we mind helpful input from experienced builders, just there are some  items 
      that will illicit as many variations as respondents and by the time you  
      incorporate everyone's wish lists the very next question asked is "why is it so
      
      expensive?".
      
      For the time being we'll stick to custom fabbed hardware and not compete  
      with products you can buy off the shelf.
      It was a pleasure meeting everyone at Brodhead and we look forward to next  
      year!
      
      Regards, Chrissi & Randi
      
      CG Products,  Custom Aircraft Hardware
      www.CozyGirrrl.com 
      Cozy Mk-IV RG  13B-turbo
      Plans #957 Chapter? big pieces done, details,  details
      ===============================  
      
      
      In a message dated 8/5/2008 9:35:58 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  
      Jack.Phillips(at)cardinalhealth.com writes:
      
      -->  Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack"  
      
      
      Maybe this would be an area  for the CozyGirrrls to make some parts.
      There are several dozen turnbuckles  required to build a Pietenpol, and
      they could offer a turnbuckle  kit.
      
      Jack Phillips
      NX899JP
      
      
      -----Original  Message-----
      From:  owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]  On Behalf Of Tim
      Willis
      Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2008 10:22 AM
      Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Homemade  Turnbuckles
      
      
      
      In theory, we should be  able to build stronger turnbuckles than standard
      aircraft ones.  The  A/C turnbuckles are made of brass.  Their male
      threads are rolled,  making them stronger than the cut threads we would
      make.  However, I  believe the female (tapped) threads are cut.  That
      would likely be the  wekaer link, and more likely to strip in tension.
      Moreover, brass is has  less tensile and shering strength than either
      steel or stainless  steel.  
      
      Building our own turnbuckles out of stainless steel  (female) and a cap
      bolt (male) might be the best of all worlds.  The  high quality steel cap
      bolt (socket head) has rolled threads and is case  hardened, as well.
      The mating female part (homemade) has cut threads, but  the S.S. material
      is much stronger than the brass.  Moreover, the  builder might experiment
      with slightly undersize tap drills to achieve  nearly interference fit
      (more thread-to-thread surface).  This last  step might not be practical,
      and a real tap-breaker, but perhaps a worthy  experiment. 
      
      Also, as in the demontrated design, the homebuilder can  make the straps
      that carry the loads on the ends of the entire turnbuckle  assembly as
      thick and wide as needed.   
      
      Of course, as  stated first in this note... this is only THEORY, and that
      is why testing  is so important. 
      
      If it works, the proper homemade turnbuckle would be  not only cheaper,
      but better than store-bought aircraft quality.  It  would also be more in
      keeping with the barndoor hinge, baling wire, and  oatmeal carton LE
      heritage of the Piet itself.  Note, though, that  this is definitely NOT
      an appeal for Home Depot turnbuckles.   
      
      Tim in central Texas 
      
      -----Original Message-----
      >From:  gcardinal <gcardinal(at)comcast.net>
      >Sent: Aug 5, 2008 6:22  AM
      >To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      >Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List:  Homemade Turnbuckles
      >
      >Bill,
      >
      >Dale Johnson built a  pull tester for testing the cables on NX18235. We
      also used it to test some  homemade turnbuckle barrels. 
      >Dale would be happy to do a test on one  or more of your turnbuckles.
      >Let me know if you are  interested.
      >
      >Greg Cardinal
      >  ----- Original Message  ----- 
      >  From: Bill Church 
      >  To:  pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
      >  Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2008  12:34 PM
      >  Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Homemade  Turnbuckles
      >
      >
      >  Ken,
      >
      >  I kind of  got sidetracked away from the homemade turnbuckles for a
      while, and I've  actually been building my tailfeathers. So, the short
      answer to your  question is "No, I haven't".
      >  Having said that, here's the long  answer.
      >  I didn't do any strength calculations, but I have a  strong feeling
      that the turnbuckles as I made them will be sufficient in  strength, but
      I have yet to do some real-world pull testing to see what  they can
      safely handle. Before I do the pull test I wanted to refine the  design a
      bit to make them a bit more user friendly. That way I'll be  testing the
      proper part, not just something similar. I still plan to do it,  just not
      right now. If you need an answer right now, I think just about  anyone
      could make up a set of these in a short period of time, and then  do
      their own testing using a simple apparatus (lever and pivot). When I  do
      get around to revising the design and doing the pull-testing, I'll  share
      the results with the list.
      >  If you want more details  about how I made the prototype, let me know.
      
      >
      >  Bill  C.
      >
      >
      >-----------------------------------------------------------------------
      -------
      >   From:  owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]  On Behalf Of KMHeide,
      BA, CPO, FAAOP
      >  Sent: Thursday, July 31,  2008 12:37 PM
      >  To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      >   Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Homemade  Turnbuckles
      >
      >
      >         Bill,
      >
      >        Have you nailed down the  materials (thickness, width, length,
      rod size, etc) to manufacture the  turnbuckles for the tail section?
      After seeing the price for the  turnbuckles on Aircraft Spruce and
      others, I think making my own would be a  great idea... any assistance?
      >
      >
      >       Kenneth M. Heide, BA, CPO, FAAOP 
      >        
      >
      >
      
      
      **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
      Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
      (http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
inspection holes
From: 
"skellytown flyer" <rhano(at)att.net>
Date: 
Aug 17, 2008
      
      
      I am about ready to cover my center section on the GN-1 I got from D.J. but am
      concerned how I can rig my aileron cables and get to them once it is time to rig
      up.i had intentions of running them through the top pulleys in the center section
      and down in the open and install the turnbuckles where they are easily
      reached and safety wired.but if I have much of anything on the end of the cables
      I can't very well remove the cables and wings once they are rigged without
      cutting them.so my only option I can see is to put openings under the center section
      to reach in and complete the hook-up ahead of the pulleys.that is - between
      the wing root and pulley.is there any way to get two hands through two inspection
      rings and connect and safety them up without amputation ? I'm thinking
      about some large fabricated door for access under there that would allow pretty
      well the whole width and at least 8 inches front to back to do it.anyone got
      better ideas? also a simple connection to hook the top cross cables together
      without the expense of another turnbuckle-I have thought of using something
      like a motorcycle chain master link and go through the nico-pressed loops to link
      them together.will this get by an inspection? seems like under Experimental
      Amateur built it should.I hear about guys fabricating home made turnbuckles
      with wire and allen screws and it for sure should be strongest than that.just
      wouldn't allow for adjustment so the final connections would need to be at the
      aileron horns and set right.Raymond
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199127#199127
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 17, 2008
From: 
Ben Charvet <bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: 
My Piet has wings!
      
      I passed a real milestone this afternoon.  Finally got the wings 
      temporarily hung on the fuselage to do the final fittings on the aileron 
      cables.  Now I can move the wings out to my hangar and make the final 
      preps to start covering.  Between this afternoon, and all the great 
      stuff I saw at Brodhead, I'm really excited that the end is in sight (or 
      maybe within a year)
      
      Ben Charvet
      Mims, Fl
      
      
      P1010097.JPG
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Chet's Mail" <Chethartley1(at)mchsi.com>
Subject: 
Vicksburg, MS
Date: 
Aug 17, 2008
      
      Anyone in the Vicksburg, MS area that has or is building a Piet. If so I 
      would like to take a look see the week of the 25th. Please drop me a 
      note and lets see if we can get togeather.
      
      Chet
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
HelsperSew(at)aol.com
Date: 
Aug 17, 2008
Subject: 
Re: My Piet has wings!
      
      Ben,
      
      Congratulations on your milestone!!  How sweet it is to finally see an  
      airplane!!  I know the feeling, as I was at your stage last November. Keep  going!!
      
      
      
      Dan  Helsper
      Poplar Grove, IL.
      
      
      **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
      Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
      (http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 17, 2008
From: 
shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 
Using motercycle chain links
      
      We have chain links in the control system of 92GB, work fine.- I know all
       about hooking up the aileron cables in the C/S, it sucks!- We have 2 rou
      ghly 6inchx 6 inch square aluminum inpection covers right behind where the 
      ail cables go through the C/S.- When the wings are removed the lower ail 
      cables stay with the outboard wing panels,- The balence cable is split vi
      a motorcycle chain link and also stays with the outboard panels.- 
      not sure if this helps or not for the question of routing aileron cables?
      Shad=0A=0A=0A      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Using motercycle chain links
From: 
"skellytown flyer" <rhano(at)att.net>
Date: 
Aug 17, 2008
      
      
      yes it does help-thanks.I will start trying to frame the inspection area in tomorrow.do
      you sleeve the pins on the master link with short pieces of tubing or
      just let the cable thimble ride on the pins?Raymond
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199173#199173
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: My Piet has wings!
From: 
"Joser" <jsoto5(at)cfl.rr.com>
Date: 
Aug 17, 2008
      
      
      Great Work Ben!!!
      
      --------
      Jose R. Soto
      Apopka, Florida
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199218#199218
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca>
Subject: 
Re: Using motercycle chain links
Date: 
Aug 17, 2008
      
      Okay, let's see if I got this right. :-)
      1-The pulleys are in the center section.
      2-The cable has to come apart at or near the junction between
      the center section and outer wing.
      3-The turnbuckles are on the horn down at your feet.
      
      So it appears to me you need one small opening ten to
      twelve inches outboard of the pulley.
      You make the connection six inches outboard of the pulley
      when the system is in neutral ( aileros flat ).
      You unhook the turnbuckle connection and pull the cable
      and connector down through the hole. Since the connection is
      six inches outboard and the hole is twelve inches then this 
      places the connector below the wing by six inches. Easy to
      get at now, isn't it. :-)
      
      Once those two connections are undone then unhooking the
      top connections at both horns allows you to pull the entire
      top cable turnbuckle assembly out the inspection hole 
      you've added in the middle of the center section far enough
      to easily work on it.
      
      My kids don't call me Crowdad for nothin' !
      
      Clif
      
      
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: shad bell 
        To: Pietenpol Discussion 
        Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 5:43 PM
        Subject: Pietenpol-List: Using motercycle chain links
      
      
              We have chain links in the control system of 92GB, work fine.  I 
      know all about hooking up the aileron cables in the C/S, it sucks!   
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
HelsperSew(at)aol.com
Date: 
Aug 18, 2008
Subject: 
Weight and balance question
      
      Good people,
      
      I have not covered my plane yet, but it is almost fully assembled. I am  
      trying to estimate the CG of the fabric and paint. I know the approximate weight
      
      of all this, but I need some guesses from you guys as far as what the "arm"  
      is, when doing my W&B calculations. Please help. Thanks.
      
      
      Dan  Helsper
      Poplar Grove, IL.
      
      
      **************Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
      Read reviews on AOL Autos.      
      (http://autos.aol.com/cars-Volkswagen-Jetta-2009/expert-review?ncid=aolaut00030000000007 )
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
From: 
"Joser" <jsoto5(at)cfl.rr.com>
Date: 
Aug 18, 2008
      
      
      I am in the process of building my Corvair 110 and soon to start on the Piet, where
      can I learn more about the Riblett airfoil and where can I obtain the drawing?
      Thank you all for all of your help, Joser.
      
      --------
      Jose R. Soto
      Apopka, Florida
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199236#199236
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Rob Stapleton, Jr." <foto(at)alaska.net>
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
Date: 
Aug 18, 2008
      
      
      Jose,
      How is the Corvair engine project going? What exactly did you do to the
      engine? Did you follow William Wyne's manuals? I am curious here in Alaska
      aobut what I need to do the additional engine project---I am also building a
      Piet with Corvair.
      As for the Riblett airfoil I can't help...I am using the traditional
      Pietenpol airfoil.
      Regards,
      Rob
      
      Rob Stapleton, Photojournalist
      Anchorage, Alaska
      907-230-9425
      KL2AN
      Skype:rob.stapleton.jr
      IM Windows Live Messenger: foto(at)alaska.net
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joser
      Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 5:25 AM
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: From print to jig...how?
      
      
      I am in the process of building my Corvair 110 and soon to start on the
      Piet, where can I learn more about the Riblett airfoil and where can I
      obtain the drawing? Thank you all for all of your help, Joser.
      
      --------
      Jose R. Soto
      Apopka, Florida
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199236#199236
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Rob Stapleton, Jr." <foto(at)alaska.net>
Subject: 
Re: My Piet has wings!
Date: 
Aug 18, 2008
      
      
      Yes, nice--but pretty hefty looking struts..actually a good idea for setting
      the wing in place.
      RS
      
      Rob Stapleton, Photojournalist
      Anchorage, Alaska
      907-230-9425
      KL2AN
      Skype:rob.stapleton.jr
      IM Windows Live Messenger: foto(at)alaska.net
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joser
      Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 10:03 PM
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: My Piet has wings!
      
      
      Great Work Ben!!!
      
      --------
      Jose R. Soto
      Apopka, Florida
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199218#199218
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
From: 
"Joser" <jsoto5(at)cfl.rr.com>
Date: 
Aug 18, 2008
      
      
      Hi Rob, after speaking at length with scores of builders, I will build my corvair
      strictly to WW's manual and recommendations. I have read many articles involving
      the Corvair conversion and without a doubt no one is better qualified than
      WW. I have disassembled the engine and will clean, powdercoat, paint and assemble
      with a nitrided crank, the recommended cam and all of the gold products
      that WW offers. Will post pictures as I complete the work, hope to see your project
      soon, right now I am preparing for a major storm, later, Joser.
      
      --------
      Jose R. Soto
      Apopka, Florida
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199295#199295
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 18, 2008
From: 
"Rick Holland" <at7000ft(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
      
      Thats what I am doing Jose. Needed more than 65 HP due to my high altitude.
      Rebuilding a run out O-200 would have run around $9500. Will end up costing
      me around $5500 with all of William's part but the exhaust manifold.
      
      Rick
      
      On Mon, Aug 18, 2008 at 9:51 AM, Joser  wrote:
      
      >
      > Hi Rob, after speaking at length with scores of builders, I will build my
      > corvair strictly to WW's manual and recommendations. I have read many
      > articles involving the Corvair conversion and without a doubt no one is
      > better qualified than WW. I have disassembled the engine and will clean,
      > powdercoat, paint and assemble with a nitrided crank, the recommended cam
      > and all of the gold products that WW offers. Will post pictures as I
      > complete the work, hope to see your project soon, right now I am preparing
      > for a major storm, later, Joser.
      >
      > --------
      > Jose R. Soto
      > Apopka, Florida
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199295#199295
      >
      >
      
      
      -- 
      Rick Holland
      Castle Rock, Colorado
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
From: 
"Joser" <jsoto5(at)cfl.rr.com>
Date: 
Aug 18, 2008
      
      
      Rick, 
      I need the 100hp because I am 6'2" 260# Hahahaha. I have used this opportunity
      to remove the weight from the body, I was over three hundred at the beginning
      of the year! So I am on the Pietenpol lifestyle plan!
      
      --------
      Jose R. Soto
      Apopka, Florida
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199310#199310
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Roman Bukolt <conceptmodels(at)tds.net>
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
Date: 
Aug 18, 2008
      
      
      Check the archives for info on the Riblett airfoil, in particular  
      emails from Pieti Lowell.
      The prints are available from me for $10.00.
      Roman Bukolt
      6505 Urich Terrace
      Madison, Wi. 53719
      
      On Aug 18, 2008, at 8:25 AM, Joser wrote:
      
      >
      > I am in the process of building my Corvair 110 and soon to start on  
      > the Piet, where can I learn more about the Riblett airfoil and where  
      > can I obtain the drawing? Thank you all for all of your help, Joser.
      >
      > --------
      > Jose R. Soto
      > Apopka, Florida
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199236#199236
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
From: 
"Joser" <jsoto5(at)cfl.rr.com>
Date: 
Aug 18, 2008
      
      
      Hi Roman, I need two copies, how do I pay you? jsoto5(at)cfl.rr.com
      Thanks, Joser.
      
      --------
      Jose R. Soto
      Apopka, Florida
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199344#199344
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 18, 2008
From: 
"walt" <waltdak(at)verizon.net>
Subject: 
Re: Weight and balance question
      
      Dan,
      In my layman's terms,,,The arm is the length, from the pivot point, a 
      certain weight that is figured in. And what effect the weight has at 
      that distance.
      So a 5 lb weight at the C/G has no "moment" effect, while that 5 lbs at 
      the tail (which is a long "arm" has lots of effect.)
      see
      http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque
      
      also I have a nifty program that I figured in my wt/bal for my Piet. 
      Whould you like it? 
      It's in Excel format
      Very simple to use, click a box, and change the value. The final C/G 
      automatically changes
      walt evans
      NX140DL
      
      
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: HelsperSew(at)aol.com 
        To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 7:07 AM
        Subject: Pietenpol-List: Weight and balance question
      
      
        Good people,
      
        I have not covered my plane yet, but it is almost fully assembled. I 
      am trying to estimate the CG of the fabric and paint. I know the 
      approximate weight of all this, but I need some guesses from you guys as 
      far as what the "arm" is, when doing my W&B calculations. Please help. 
      Thanks.
      
      
        Dan Helsper
        Poplar Grove, IL.
      
      
      -------------------------------------------------------------------------
      -----
        Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? Read 
      reviews on AOL Autos.
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Roman Bukolt <conceptmodels(at)tds.net>
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
Date: 
Aug 18, 2008
      
      
      Just send a check $20
      On Aug 18, 2008, at 2:42 PM, Joser wrote:
      
      >
      > Hi Roman, I need two copies, how do I pay you? jsoto5(at)cfl.rr.com
      > Thanks, Joser.
      >
      > --------
      > Jose R. Soto
      > Apopka, Florida
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199344#199344
      >
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
From: 
"Joser" <jsoto5(at)cfl.rr.com>
Date: 
Aug 18, 2008
      
      
      10-4
      
      --------
      Jose R. Soto
      Apopka, Florida
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199396#199396
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 18, 2008
From: 
Ben Charvet <bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: 
Re: My Piet has wings!
      
      
      The struts in the picture were made from 2X4 stock ripped down the 
      middle.  I cut an angle on one end where they fit against the fuselage, 
      and bolted the other end to the wing after getting a good estimate how 
      long they needed to be. As I raised the outboard end of the wing I had 
      my wife place the temp struts on top of the strut fittings.  Then I 
      could place shims between the strut and the fuselage side to get the 
      wash in/out close to flat.  After all that was done I made marks on the 
      lower end where the hole needs to be, so I can use these temporary 
      struts as a template for the actual struts.  One other cool thing that 
      happened.  A friend gave me a set of struts from a Piper Tripacer.  The 
      shortest ones are exactly the right length for the forward struts.  The 
      other piper struts are longer and have an angled end where they fit the 
      wing of the Tri-Pacer, so that end will need to be trimmed down.  They 
      came complete with adjustable forks.  They are a little wider than they 
      need to be.  I'm wondering, the Tri-Pacer doesnt use strut braces with 
      these same struts, do you think I'll need them for the Piet?
      Rob Stapleton, Jr. wrote:
      >
      > Yes, nice--but pretty hefty looking struts..actually a good idea for setting
      > the wing in place.
      > RS
      >
      > Rob Stapleton, Photojournalist
      > Anchorage, Alaska
      > 907-230-9425
      > KL2AN
      > Skype:rob.stapleton.jr
      > IM Windows Live Messenger: foto(at)alaska.net
      >
      >
      > -----Original Message-----
      > From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
      > [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joser
      > Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 10:03 PM
      > To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: My Piet has wings!
      >
      >
      > Great Work Ben!!!
      >
      > --------
      > Jose R. Soto
      > Apopka, Florida
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199218#199218
      >
      >
      >   
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
airlion(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: 
Re: Weight and balance question
Date: 
Aug 18, 2008
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: Weight and balance question
From: 
"skellytown flyer" <rhano(at)att.net>
Date: 
Aug 19, 2008
      
      
      The Kansas City Dawn patrol website did have a great program that you could download
      and use too.forget the guy's name-Dick Starks maybe? anyway they have a
      fine site you might want to checkout.Raymond
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199494#199494
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Marc Davis <marcs_listreading(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
Blocking
Date: 
Aug 19, 2008
      
      
      In reading the plans I see three places (on each side) where the plans call
       for blocking 
      to fill in the V's of clusters.  On my fuselage this is done on all cluster
      s.  Are others doing this?
      I'm rebuilding the lower aft section and am trying to decide if I should pu
      t these put these back in.
      
      Trying to "Simplify and add lightness".
      Marc
      
      _________________________________________________________________
      See what people are saying about Windows Live.  Check out featured posts.
      http://www.windowslive.com/connect?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_connect2_082008
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 19, 2008
From: 
Jim <jimboyer(at)hughes.net>
Subject: 
Re: Blocking
      
      
      The gussets take the place of blocks at each cluster. The blocks near the cockpit
      area are to strengthen the landing gear mount area. Your question falls under
      the "can you improve Bernards design?" Not likely by adding weight or items
      not found to be needed in 70 years.
      Cheers,
      Jim
      
      
      On Aug 19, 2008, marcs_listreading(at)hotmail.com wrote: 
      
      
      In reading the plans I see three places (on each side) where the plans call for
      blocking 
      to fill in the V's of clusters.  On my fuselage this is done on all clusters. 
      Are others doing this?
      I'm rebuilding the lower aft section and am trying to decide if I should put these
      put these back in.
      
      Trying to "Simplify and add lightness".
      Marc
      
      See what people are saying about Windows Live.  Check out featured posts. Check
      It Out!
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Robert Gow" <rgow(at)avionicsdesign.ca>
Subject: 
Three piece wings
Date: 
Aug 19, 2008
      
      
      The three piece wing plans show a 3/4 inch wide spar rather than a routed 1
      inch spar in the regular plans.  I'm wondering if anyone knows why the
      thickness is less?  I assume three piece wings have been built to these
      plans and are still hanging in there.
      
      On another question - the spar material that came with my project is 1/2
      inch.  Over the winter it has cupped a little.  I'm face gluing the spars
      together, with the grain properly arranged, and milling the 1 inch back down
      to 3/4 inch.  Actually I've given the task to a local furniture maker - If
      it doesn't work, then I'm no further behind.
      
      Any issues that anyone can see with this approach?
      
      Bob
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Marc Davis <marcs_listreading(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
Blocking
Date: 
Aug 19, 2008
      
      
      Thats what I was thinking. The guy who built this plane seems to have been 
      a bit conservative=2C 
      I think I'll remove the "improvements" and save a bit of weight.
      
      Thanks
      Marc
      
      > Date: Tue=2C 19 Aug 2008 17:48:57 +0000
      > From: jimboyer(at)hughes.net
      > To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Blocking
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > The gussets take the place of blocks at each cluster. The blocks near the
       cockpit area are to strengthen the landing gear mount area. Your question 
      falls under the "can you improve Bernards design?" Not likely by adding wei
      ght or items not found to be needed in 70 years.
      > Cheers=2C
      > Jim
      > 
      > 
      > On Aug 19=2C 2008=2C marcs_listreading(at)hotmail.com wrote: 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > In reading the plans I see three places (on each side) where the plans ca
      ll for blocking 
      > to fill in the V's of clusters.  On my fuselage this is done on all clust
      ers.  Are others doing this?
      > I'm rebuilding the lower aft section and am trying to decide if I should 
      put these put these back in.
      > 
      > Trying to "Simplify and add lightness".
      > Marc
      > 
      > See what people are saying about Windows Live.  Check out featured posts.
       Check It Out!
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      ===========
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      _________________________________________________________________
      Be the filmmaker you always wanted to be=97learn how to burn a DVD with Win
      dows=AE.
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Marc Davis <marcs_listreading(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
tail wheel
Date: 
Aug 19, 2008
      
      
      I weighed the tail wheel that came with my plane and it came to 10.25 lbs.
      I've been thinking about building a new one more like the original design.
      In the interest of  keeping things light I was thinking about using a bungi
      e
      instead of the coil spring normally used.  Attached is a crude picture of w
      hat I have in mind.
      I know the is dangerously close to an 'improvement' but what do you think?
      The bungie would be attached to the tail post with a turn buckle for adjust
      ment. 
      If the picture doesn't come through here is a link. 
          
      http://picasaweb.google.com/sandy.n.marc/Pietenpol/photo#523636271252841089
      8
      
      Thanks for your thoughts.
      Marc
      
      
      _________________________________________________________________
      Get thousands of games on your PC=2C your mobile phone=2C and the web with 
      Windows=AE.
      
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________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
HelsperSew(at)aol.com
Date: 
Aug 19, 2008
Subject: 
Re: tail wheel
      
      Marc,
      
      In my opinion, 10 lbs is unacceptable. My tail wheel complete is half that  
      weight. Five extra lbs. is a huge amount way back on the tail on an  airplane 
      that is already tail heavy to begin with. Please reconsider.  
      
      Dan  Helsper
      Poplar Grove, IL.
      
      
      **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
      deal here.      
      (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Chet's Mail" <Chethartley1(at)mchsi.com>
Subject: 
Re: tail wheel
Date: 
Aug 19, 2008
      
      Marc,
      
      I like the idea, do you have any plans to support the attaching point 
      for the turn buckle?
      
      
      NX920Y flying well in MO with no heat problem anymore.
      
      Chet
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Marc Davis <marcs_listreading(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
tail wheel
Date: 
Aug 19, 2008
      
      
      Chet
      
      I was thinking about an eye bolt through the tail post near the bottom.
      Also adding blocking where the last brace meets the tail post to help trans
      fer
      loads to the brace and longerons.
      
      The hinge would look something like the hinge for the bell crank (but welde
      d).
      Also adding a travel stop so the bungee would always be under some tension 
      and the
      tail wheel would not flop down in flight. The normal spring is fully compre
      ssed at 190lbs so
      a 400 lb bungee with a 2 to 1 advantage in the tail wheel arm should be abo
      ut the same.
      My old tail wheel with two leaf spring compressed with about 100 lbs.
      
      Marc  
      
      
      From: Chethartley1(at)mchsi.comTo: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.comSubject: Re: Pi
      etenpol-List: tail wheelDate: Tue=2C 19 Aug 2008 20:13:57 -0500
      
      
      Marc=2C
      
      I like the idea=2C do you have any plans to support the attaching point for
       the turn buckle?
      
      
      NX920Y flying well in MO with no heat problem anymore.
      
      Chet
      
      
      _________________________________________________________________
      Get thousands of games on your PC=2C your mobile phone=2C and the web with 
      Windows=AE.
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Marc Davis <marcs_listreading(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: 
tail wheel
Date: 
Aug 19, 2008
      
      
      Dan 
      
      I think you misread my post.  I agree that 10.25 lbs is too heavy.  
      This is what the plane came with.  I looking for a better solution.
      The attached photo is one idea I'm considering to make it lighter.
      I like the look of your tail wheel.
      I was thinking that if you could replace the spring with a bungee it would 
      be lighter still.
      Thanks for the info about the weight of your solution.
      
      Marc
      
      
      From: HelsperSew(at)aol.comDate: Tue=2C 19 Aug 2008 20:45:30 -0400Subject: Re:
       Pietenpol-List: tail wheelTo: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
      
      Marc=2C
      
      In my opinion=2C 10 lbs is unacceptable. My tail wheel complete is half tha
      t weight. Five extra lbs. is a huge amount way back on the tail on an airpl
      ane that is already tail heavy to begin with. Please reconsider. 
      
      Dan HelsperPoplar Grove=2C IL.
      
      
      It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here.
      
      
      _________________________________________________________________
      Be the filmmaker you always wanted to be=97learn how to burn a DVD with Win
      dows=AE.
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 19, 2008
From: 
"Ryan Mueller" <rmueller23(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: tail wheel
      
      Marc,
      
      You have come up with an interesting concept. A couple of things that came
      to mind when I looked at it:
      
      Accessing the bungees: bungees don't last forever, so you would probably
      want a provision for accessing the bungees that wouldn't require you to
      remove the fabric from the rear of your fuselage in order to access the
      area. With round access panels it could be almost impossible to remove a
      bungee, then install and tension a new one. You would possibly want to
      consider making the fuselage sides of the last bay (or from the tail post to
      however far forward you deem necessary) sheet metal panels, so you can
      remove them entirely and be able to work back there.
      
      You would need some sort of upstop, or some way to prevent damage to the
      fuselage if the bungee breaks. If you put bumpers on the fuselage or the
      tailwheel "V", you would need to ensure they are of sufficient thickness to
      absorb a hard landing bungee failure without contacting the tailwheel during
      normal landings (you wouldn't want the tailwheel banging/bottoming out all
      the time). If you were to install a cable inside the fuselage to catch the
      tailwheel internally, possibly connected to another eyebolt in the same
      position, you would need to consider the momentary loads that a hard landing
      bungee failure would impose upon the tailpost and make sure that wouldn't
      damage the structure.
      
      Dan's design is pretty simple, and at 5 lbs is relatively light. A bungee
      may be lighter than a spring and the two small cups that hold it in place,
      but you would not just be replacing the spring with a bungee. You would be
      replacing the spring with a bungee, eyebolt, turnbuckle, the additional tube
      you have into the fuselage to catch the bungee, the downstop, and whatever
      upstop mechanism you choose, and any access panels you may need to add back
      there for your suspension. Would those items together weigh less than the
      spring? That would be something to consider calculating.
      
      Just some food for thought. Have a good evening,
      
      Ryan
      
      
      On Tue, Aug 19, 2008 at 5:44 PM, Marc Davis
      wrote:
      
      >  I weighed the tail wheel that came with my plane and it came to 10.25 lbs.
      > I've been thinking about building a new one more like the original design.
      > In the interest of  keeping things light I was thinking about using a
      > bungie
      > instead of the coil spring normally used.  Attached is a crude picture of
      > what I have in mind.
      > I know the is dangerously close to an 'improvement' but what do you think?
      > The bungie would be attached to the tail post with a turn buckle for
      > adjustment.
      > If the picture doesn't come through here is a link.
      >
      >
      > http://picasaweb.google.com/sandy.n.marc/Pietenpol/photo#5236362712528410898
      >
      > Thanks for your thoughts.
      > Marc
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
From: 
Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu>
Subject: 
tail wheel
      
      
      Has anyone installed an RV-like tailwheel and spring assembly on a 
      Piet?  A good photo of one is about halfway down this page: 
      http://www.flycorvair.com/wagabond.html
      
      Jeff
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
<catdesigns(at)att.net>
Subject: 
Re: tail wheel
Date: 
Aug 19, 2008
      
      
      Bob Siebert did.
      http://westcoastpiet.com/images/Bob%20Siebert/DS0004.jpg
      
      Chris Tracy
      Sacramento, Ca
      Website at http://www.WestCoastPiet.com
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Jeff Boatright" <jboatri(at)emory.edu>
      Sent: Tuesday, August 19, 2008 9:30 PM
      Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: tail wheel
      
      
      > 
      > Has anyone installed an RV-like tailwheel and spring assembly on a 
      > Piet?  A good photo of one is about halfway down this page: 
      > http://www.flycorvair.com/wagabond.html
      > 
      > Jeff
      > 
      > 
      > 
      >
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
From: 
Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net>
Subject: 
No clamps on ribs?
      
      I started a prototype rib just to get familular with procedures and methods. I
      bought some Craftsman, 3/4" mini clamps to hold the gussets. I see on the T-88
      bottles it states to use minimal clamping force as too much clamping will starve
      the joint. I believe these clamps are too tight. I am thinking about finger
      pressing the gussets in place and let set...no clamps. What say you?
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
No clamps on ribs?
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
From: 
"Jack T. Textor" <jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com>
      
      Mike,
      
      This is what I did; see my site for more pictures.
      
      Jack
      
      www.textors.com
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Isablcorky(at)aol.com
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
Subject: 
Re: No clamps on ribs?
      
      Get some coated nails, a comfortable sized long nosed pliers, a good heavy  
      headed small hammer and forget about clamps. 
      Nathan and Levi
      
      
      **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
      deal here.      
      (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Dave Abramson" <davea(at)symbolicdisplays.com>
Subject: 
No clamps on ribs?
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
      
      Remember, you want ALL the ribs identical!!!  Use blocks over rib dwg. to
      hold all the wood.  I even cut 2 pieces of my spar and put them on my rib
      print.  Then used the glue coated nails from ACS, small spring loaded needle
      nose pliers. and small hammer and nailed the gussets down. Let dry over
      night....  then do other side.  1 rib per day.......... got-em done in no
      time.
      
      dave
        -----Original Message-----
        From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael Perez
        Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 8:35 AM
        To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
        Subject: Pietenpol-List: No clamps on ribs?
      
      
              I started a prototype rib just to get familular with procedures and
      methods. I bought some Craftsman, 3/4" mini clamps to hold the gussets. I
      see on the T-88 bottles it states to use minimal clamping force as too much
      clamping will starve the joint. I believe these clamps are too tight. I am
      thinking about finger pressing the gussets in place and let set...no clamps.
      What say you?
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
CozyGirrrl(at)aol.com
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
Subject: 
Re: From print to jig...how?
      
      Go raid your wife's dressmaking supplies, you are looking for a "tick  wheel" 
      its a little handle with a thin wheel on it with notches, it is used for  
      transferring a dress pattern to material, we use colored wax transfer papers  
      between the patterns and the cloth and trace with the tick wheel, it leaves  
      colored dotted lines on the cloth.
      Use carbon paper instead. Any fabric store should sell tick wheels for less  
      the $2.
      Regards, Chrissi 
      (fabricating our Cozy engine cowls now)
      
      CG Products,  Custom Aircraft Hardware
      www.CozyGirrrl.com 
      Cozy Mk-IV RG  13B-turbo
      Plans #957 Chapter? big pieces done, details,  details
      =============================
      
      
      **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
      deal here.      
      (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"JERRY GROGAN" <jerry(at)SKYCLASSIC.NET>
Subject: 
Re: No clamps on ribs?
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
      
      The clamps that Jack used work good if the ply pcs are made a little big 
      so you can route off the excess. Because the Plywood can move around a 
      little from the pressure from the clamp if the clamp is not on straight. 
      But you can glue two sides at once. When we build ribs we do one side at 
      a time and use 2 pound weights on each pc of ply wood. Its about the 
      right amount of pressure. You still have to make the ply pcs a little 
      big on the outside of the rib so you can route them off for a very nice 
      finished product.
      
      Jerry Grogan
      Sky Classic Aircraft
      
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Jack T. Textor 
        To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 10:57 AM
        Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: No clamps on ribs?
      
      
        Mike,
      
        This is what I did; see my site for more pictures.
      
        Jack
      
        www.textors.com
      
         
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
From: 
"KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP" <kmheidecpo(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: 
Re: No clamps on ribs?
      
      Them damned southern boys always got to copy us yankees.....
      
      
      Kenneth M. Heide, BA, CPO, FAAOP 
      
      -
      
      
      --- On Wed, 8/20/08, Isablcorky(at)aol.com  wrote:
      
      From: Isablcorky(at)aol.com <Isablcorky(at)aol.com>
      Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: No clamps on ribs?
      Date: Wednesday, August 20, 2008, 11:00 AM
      
      
      Get some coated nails, a comfortable sized long nosed pliers, a good heavy 
      headed small hammer and forget about clamps. 
      Nathan and Levi
      
      
      It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal here.
      
      
      =0A=0A=0A      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
No clamps on ribs?
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
From: 
"Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinalhealth.com>
      
      Like Nathan (or is it Corky?) said, use the AN501 nails from AS&S and just 
      nail the little suckers down.  For Resorcinol you need the nails spaced clo
      sely together (about every =BD" to =BE") but for T-88 just one at each corn
      er is sufficient.  Or staple them down and remove the staples later.  Don't
       obsess over it.
      
      
      Jack Phillips
      
      NX899JP 
      
        _____  
      
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-lis
      t-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of JERRY GROGAN
      Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 2:16 PM
      Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: No clamps on ribs?
      
      
      The clamps that Jack used work good if the ply pcs are made a little big so
       you can route off the excess. Because the Plywood can move around a little
       from the pressure from the clamp if the clamp is not on straight. But you 
      can glue two sides at once. When we build ribs we do one side at a time and
       use 2 pound weights on each pc of ply wood. Its about the right amount of 
      pressure. You still have to make the ply pcs a little big on the outside of
       the rib so you can route them off for a very nice finished product.
      
      Jerry Grogan
      
      Sky Classic Aircraft
      
      
      	----- Original Message ----- 
      
      	From: Jack T. Textor <mailto:jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com>  
      
      	To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
      
      	Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 10:57 AM
      
      	Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: No clamps on ribs?
      
      	 
      
      	Mike,
      
      	This is what I did; see my site for more pictures.
      
      	Jack
      
      	www.textors.com
      
      	 
      
      
      _________________________________________________
      
      This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
      d, proprietary
      or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please 
      notify the sender
      immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is p
      rohibited.
      
      Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
      orsk - Portuguese
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
No clamps on ribs?
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
From: 
"Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips(at)cardinalhealth.com>
      
      Copy,  Hell - I notice you Yankees are still using needle-nose pliers,
      when any good Southerner knows to go to Radio Shack and get some of
      those little spring-loaded electronics probes for 99 cents.  You just
      squeeze the plunger and a little hook extends from the probe.  You hook
      that over the nail then release the plunger and the nail is held
      securely whilst you whop it into place with a tack hammer.
      
      
      Jack Phillips
      
      Raleigh, NC
      
      But born and raised in Tennessee
      
      
        _____  
      
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of KMHeide,
      BA, CPO, FAAOP
      Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 2:30 PM
      Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: No clamps on ribs?
      
      
      Them damned southern boys always got to copy us yankees.....
      
      Kenneth M. Heide, BA, CPO, FAAOP 
      
      
      --- On Wed, 8/20/08, Isablcorky(at)aol.com  wrote:
      
      From: Isablcorky(at)aol.com <Isablcorky(at)aol.com>
      Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: No clamps on ribs?
      Date: Wednesday, August 20, 2008, 11:00 AM
      
      Get some coated nails, a comfortable sized long nosed pliers, a good
      heavy headed small hammer and forget about clamps. 
      
      Nathan and Levi
      
      
        _____  
      
      It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal
      here <http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047>
      =2E
      
      
      _________________________________________________
      
      This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
      d, proprietary
      or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please 
      notify the sender
      immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is p
      rohibited.
      
      Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
      orsk - Portuguese
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
From: 
"TOM STINEMETZE" <TOMS(at)mcpcity.com>
Subject: 
No clamps on ribs?
      
      I wish I'd have read about those spring-loaded electronics probes before
      I whopped the dickens (technical term) out of my fingers nailing my
      gussets in place.
      
      Tom Stinemetze
      McPherson, KS - neither North, South, East or West according to the
      weather people. (central being somewhere between Chicago and New York)
      
      
      >>> "Phillips, Jack"  8/20/2008 1:40
      PM >>>
      
      Copy,  Hell  I notice you Yankees are still using needle-nose pliers,
      when any good Southerner knows to go to Radio Shack and get some of
      those little spring-loaded electronics probes for 99 cents.  You just
      squeeze the plunger and a little hook extends from the probe.  You hook
      that over the nail then release the plunger and the nail is held
      securely whilst you whop it into place with a tack hammer.
      
      Jack Phillips
      Raleigh, NC
      But born and raised in Tennessee
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
From: 
"walt" <waltdak(at)verizon.net>
Subject: 
Re: No clamps on ribs?
      
      I'm with Corky,
      Use aircraft nails, but I used a tack hammer.
      Magnet on one tip to pick up the nail, then with a little practice, set 
      the nail and turn the hammer over, and hammer home.
      Nothing flew off yet.
      
      PS I'm 210# and took up a 190#'er. with 10 gallons aboard.
      Next plan is to take me and a 230#'er up.
      No white knuckles so far
      walt evans
      NX140DL
      
      
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Isablcorky(at)aol.com 
        To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 12:00 PM
        Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: No clamps on ribs?
      
      
        Get some coated nails, a comfortable sized long nosed pliers, a good 
      heavy headed small hammer and forget about clamps. 
        Nathan and Levi
      
      
      -------------------------------------------------------------------------
      -----
        It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel deal 
      here.
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Richard Schreiber" <lmforge(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 
No clamps on ribs?
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
      
      It has been mentioned before, but probably bears repeating. What I used was light
      weight staples. Buy a light weight staple gun and use either 1/4" staples (on
      1/16" gussets) or 3/16" on thicker gussets. After the adhesive cures, use small
      end nippers to grip and remove the staples. I also used aircraft nails and
      nailing strips on thicker plywood surfaces such as the fuselage sides. Once
      you get a system down using the hand staple gun works real well. I think I picked
      up my gun at Home Depot for less than $10 and 1,000 staples only costs a couple
      of bucks.
      
      Rick Schreiber
      Valparaiso, IN
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: TOM STINEMETZE 
      Sent: 8/20/2008 2:06:19 PM 
      Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: No clamps on ribs?
      
      
      I wish I'd have read about those spring-loaded electronics probes before I whopped
      the dickens (technical term) out of my fingers nailing my gussets in place.
      
      Tom Stinemetze
      McPherson, KS - neither North, South, East or West according to the weather people.
      (central being somewhere between Chicago and New York)
      
      
      >>> "Phillips, Jack"  8/20/2008 1:40 PM >>>
      
      Copy,  Hell  I notice you Yankees are still using needle-nose pliers, when any
      good Southerner knows to go to Radio Shack and get some of those little spring-loaded
      electronics probes for 99 cents.  You just squeeze the plunger and a little
      hook extends from the probe.  You hook that over the nail then release the
      plunger and the nail is held securely whilst you whop it into place with a
      tack hammer.
      
      Jack Phillips
      Raleigh, NC
      But born and raised in Tennessee
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
HelsperSew(at)aol.com
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
Subject: 
Re: No clamps on ribs?
      
      Use nails, and a wire-stripping pliers, with the small serrations in the  
      jaws, to hold the nail straight.  
      
      Dan  Helsper
      Poplar Grove, IL.
      
      
      **************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
      deal here.      
      (http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
takeoff performance, Walt Evans
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
From: 
"Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC]" <michael.d.cuy(at)nasa.gov>
      
      PS I'm 210# and took up a 190#'er. with 10 gallons aboard.     Next plan
      is to take me and a 230#'er up. 
      
      Walt--that is AMAZING.   You've got a 65hp right ?     Can I ask things
      like your runway length, obstacle heights at runway
      ends, were there any winds, and what was the OAT ?    I used to be able
      to take 200 pound passengers when my engine
      was tight but now....not so much.   I wait until I get a nice 70 F day
      with some wind down the runway and then still
      restrict my passenger weight to around 160, 170 max.    My empty weight
      is 632lbs. 
      
      Mike C. 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
Re: takeoff performance, Walt Evans
From: 
"Don Emch" <EmchAir(at)aol.com>
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
      
      
      Mike,
      
      I regularly carry my Dad.  He is about 225lbs. or so.  I go about 180lbs.  I've
      gone with full fuel several times.  On Andrew's Brodhead trip this year he carried
      himself and Nigel Hitchman on a couple of flights.  One of which was for
      a TP cutting routine out of the hayfield. I would imagine that makes for a total
      passenger weight of about 430lbs or so.  A bit much for my taste, but they
      seemed to make out just fine.  Don't really know other conditions.
      
      Don Emch
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199703#199703
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
From: 
"walt" <waltdak(at)verizon.net>
Subject: 
Re: takeoff performance, Walt Evans
      
      Mike,
      Yeah A-65
      With the 190'er aboard I cleared the end of the 2500' runway at probably 
      300'. Not really any trees at the end. Just a lake in this direction.
      It was a coolish morning, mayby 75 deg.
      My fear is not making the trees, only that the engine won't quit.
      Knock on wood, it hasn't burped yet.
      This Youtube,,,
      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLrIDeDLR48
      was last year, of me taking my friend Don, who's mayby 170/180 up in the 
      AM.
      The runway is 2500' and we started at the end, not using the 500' grass 
      end. You can see how we did.
      One BIG thing that I've found,,Is that with the P factor on the A-65, 
      It's textbook.
      Have to hold right rudder on climbout.
      I built my plane and engine mount right to the print. Except about 1 
      3/4" longer.
      So it should fly like all the rest.
      If you watch the ball on climbout, you see that by "stepping on the 
      ball" the climb increases, and all around performance goes up.
      "step on the ball"
      "step on the ball"
      
      Just a note,,,
      After I took Don flying, He persued his dream of taking glider lessons.
      Ironically he is taking lessons from the guy who first showed me his 
      Fisher Celibrity, uncovered, on the gear,  and I fell in love with 
      building a wooded airplane.
      And my second project was my Piet, which I'm flying now.
      Hopefully I was the inspiration for that!
      Ain't Life Grand!
      walt evans
      NX140DL
      
      
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC] 
        To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com 
        Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 4:51 PM
        Subject: Pietenpol-List: takeoff performance, Walt Evans
      
      
        PS I'm 210# and took up a 190#'er. with 10 gallons aboard.     Next 
      plan is to take me and a 230#'er up. 
      
        Walt--that is AMAZING.   You've got a 65hp right ?     Can I ask 
      things like your runway length, obstacle heights at runway
        ends, were there any winds, and what was the OAT ?    I used to be 
      able to take 200 pound passengers when my engine
        was tight but now....not so much.   I wait until I get a nice 70 F day 
      with some wind down the runway and then still
        restrict my passenger weight to around 160, 170 max.    My empty 
      weight is 632lbs. 
      
        Mike C. 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"gcardinal" <gcardinal(at)comcast.net>
Subject: 
Re: takeoff performance, Walt Evans
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
      
      With a 200# pilot, 160# passenger and 85# of fuel, NX18235 flies very nicely 
      on an 80 degree evening.
      Here is the view on short final.
      
      Greg Cardinal
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Don Emch" <EmchAir(at)aol.com>
      Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 4:44 PM
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: takeoff performance, Walt Evans
      
      
      >
      > Mike,
      >
      > I regularly carry my Dad.  He is about 225lbs. or so.  I go about 180lbs. 
      > I've gone with full fuel several times.  On Andrew's Brodhead trip this 
      > year he carried himself and Nigel Hitchman on a couple of flights.  One of 
      > which was for a TP cutting routine out of the hayfield. I would imagine 
      > that makes for a total passenger weight of about 430lbs or so.  A bit much 
      > for my taste, but they seemed to make out just fine.  Don't really know 
      > other conditions.
      >
      > Don Emch
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199703#199703
      >
      >
      > 
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: 
takeoff performance, Walt Evans
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
From: 
"Jack T. Textor" <jtextor(at)thepalmergroup.com>
      
      Nice video Walt.  While there I noticed the video by Grant McClaren,
      Simple Light and Cheap, also a great video, about 4 minutes.
      
      See it at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2Ch9QhwyBY&NR=1 
      
      Jack
      
      www.textors.com
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
From: 
"Ryan Mueller" <rmueller23(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: No clamps on ribs?
      
      Jess says: "For me, at the wing rib building workshop at Oshkosh, using a
      stapler to attach the gussets got me a finished rib far quicker than sitting
      around yakking about it. Gentleman start your staplers!  ;) "
      
      Ryan
      
      On Wed, Aug 20, 2008 at 10:34 AM, Michael Perez wrote:
      
      > I started a prototype rib just to get familular with procedures and
      > methods. I bought some Craftsman, 3/4" mini clamps to hold the gussets. I
      > see on the T-88 bottles it states to use minimal clamping force as too much
      > clamping will starve the joint. I believe these clamps are too tight. I am
      > thinking about finger pressing the gussets in place and let set...no clamps.
      > What say you?
      >
      > **
      >
      >
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
Kirk Huizenga <kirkh1(at)gmail.com>
Subject: 
Re: takeoff performance, Walt Evans
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
      
      
      Greg,
      
      Is that Stanton?
      
      Kirk
      On Aug 20, 2008, at 5:07 PM, gcardinal wrote:
      
      > With a 200# pilot, 160# passenger and 85# of fuel, NX18235 flies  
      > very nicely on an 80 degree evening.
      > Here is the view on short final.
      >
      > Greg Cardinal
      >
      > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Don Emch" <EmchAir(at)aol.com>
      > To: 
      > Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 4:44 PM
      > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: takeoff performance, Walt Evans
      >
      >
      >>
      >> Mike,
      >>
      >> I regularly carry my Dad.  He is about 225lbs. or so.  I go about  
      >> 180lbs. I've gone with full fuel several times.  On Andrew's  
      >> Brodhead trip this year he carried himself and Nigel Hitchman on a  
      >> couple of flights.  One of which was for a TP cutting routine out  
      >> of the hayfield. I would imagine that makes for a total passenger  
      >> weight of about 430lbs or so.  A bit much for my taste, but they  
      >> seemed to make out just fine.  Don't really know other conditions.
      >>
      >> Don Emch
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >> Read this topic online here:
      >>
      >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199703#199703
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
From: 
"walt" <waltdak(at)verizon.net>
Subject: 
Re: takeoff performance, Walt Evans
      
      
      nice picture!
      walt evans
      NX140DL
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "gcardinal" <gcardinal(at)comcast.net>
      Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 6:07 PM
      Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: takeoff performance, Walt Evans
      
      
      > With a 200# pilot, 160# passenger and 85# of fuel, NX18235 flies very 
      > nicely
      > on an 80 degree evening.
      > Here is the view on short final.
      >
      > Greg Cardinal
      >
      > ----- Original Message ----- 
      > From: "Don Emch" <EmchAir(at)aol.com>
      > To: 
      > Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 4:44 PM
      > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: takeoff performance, Walt Evans
      >
      >
      >>
      >> Mike,
      >>
      >> I regularly carry my Dad.  He is about 225lbs. or so.  I go about 180lbs.
      >> I've gone with full fuel several times.  On Andrew's Brodhead trip this
      >> year he carried himself and Nigel Hitchman on a couple of flights.  One 
      >> of
      >> which was for a TP cutting routine out of the hayfield. I would imagine
      >> that makes for a total passenger weight of about 430lbs or so.  A bit 
      >> much
      >> for my taste, but they seemed to make out just fine.  Don't really know
      >> other conditions.
      >>
      >> Don Emch
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >> Read this topic online here:
      >>
      >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=199703#199703
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      >>
      > 
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"Skip Gadd" <skipgadd(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: 
No clamps on ribs?
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
      
      Charlie Rubeck who made over 5000 Piet and GN-1 ribs used ether an office stapler
      with the bottom anvil part removed or nothing. He would use finger pressure
      till the glue suction took over. When you use the no clamp method there can be
      no stress in the joint trying to lift the gusset up.
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: Michael Perez 
      Sent: 8/20/2008 11:41:26 AM 
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: No clamps on ribs?
      
      
      I started a prototype rib just to get familular with procedures and methods. I
      bought some Craftsman, 3/4" mini clamps to hold the gussets. I see on the T-88
      bottles it states to use minimal clamping force as too much clamping will starve
      the joint. I believe these clamps are too tight. I am thinking about finger
      pressing the gussets in place and let set...no clamps. What say you?
      
      
________________________________________________________________________________
From: 
"gcardinal" <gcardinal(at)comcast.net>
Subject: 
Re: takeoff performance, Walt Evans
Date: 
Aug 20, 2008
      
      
      Yes, it is Stanton (SYN) on a Sunday evening about a week and a half ago. 
      Gave rides to five teenagers. They all loved it.
      
      Greg
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Kirk Huizenga" <kirkh1(at)gmail.com>

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August 10, 2008 - August 20, 2008

Pietenpol-Archive.digest.vol-gx

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