Pietenpol-Archive.digest.vol-jd
April 19, 2010 - May 01, 2010
> it the same width (12" cord) as the aileron is a good idea or should it b
e
> wider? Basically it would be built like the a 3rd aileron just shorter i
n
> length, about 24 inches long. Speaking of length, should it exstend beyo
nd
> the center section lendth?
>
>
> Chris
>
> Sacramento ,Ca
>
> Westcoastpiet.com
>
> * *
>
> * *
>
> **
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://forums.matronics.com*
>
> **
>
> **
>
> *http://www.matronics.com/contribution*
>
> * *
>
> *
>
===========
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> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
>
> Yeah, there was no way that guy would have gotten out if we hadn't been
> there to lift the tail. Just goes to show you that a Piet is more safe than
> an RV-7, eh?
>
> I think that's just a risk a person takes flying a low-wing aircraft that
> has a canopy that pivots or slides. The risk is lower with a plane with
> side doors or a high-wing to bear the load of the plane.
>
>
The RV sales guy at SNF said that they make the front canopy of the RV-12
(and maybe all of them) of Plexiglas rather that lexan so a pilot can break
it out to escape a roll-over.
rick
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov> |
On 04/19/2010 10:41 AM, Rick Holland wrote:
> The RV sales guy at SNF said that they make the front canopy of the
> RV-12 (and maybe all of them) of Plexiglas rather that lexan so a pilot
> can break it out to escape a roll-over.
Oh, the canopy was broken, there was no question of that. There just
wasn't enough clearance between the top of the turtledeck and the
gunwales for anyone to squirm out. Only when we lifted the tail could
the gent wiggle out.
Part of the problem could have been because the tail and top of the
turtledeck were embedded in the dirt. It might be a different story on
hard surface. Then again, I bet an RV wouldn't flip on a hard surface...
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: B-25 Doolittle Raider Reunion video |
I had a once in a lifetime chance to fly on a B-25 a couple years ago at DLZ's
fly-in, for free! I voulenteered to park aircraft and they gave the unsold seats
to fly-in voulenteers. Sitting in that thing with the engines warming up
was AWESOME! It is very loud, the afterfiring sounds about like sitting in a
steel trash can and having someone beat it with a Louisville Slugger. I will
never forget it. I was secretly pretending I was a WW2 bomber crewmember like
I would have if I was 10 yrs old (even though I was almost 30). If you get a
chance I recomend the ride. We were allowed to crawl all through it after being
airborn, what a hoot!
Shad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: anybody with some spare time? |
Dowue, Do go through it with a fine tooth comb, Don't trash every thing. I bought
my Jungster 1 project from a builder who did a GREAT job with the basic wood
work, but...some of the glue joints in the wings were awfull bad. As you say,
you must heed the warnings on the adheasives you use, temp humidity etc.
I scrapped my wings (4 wing pannels it's a bipe) and built all new, the fuse was
better, and only had a couple of things to re-glue. God watches out for us,
and the incident could have saved your life (life is funny that way isn't it?).
Just keep plugging away and it'll be done before you know it, even better
than the last time. And remember as Grandpa used to say....."Once a job has
once begun, never leave it till it's done. Be the labor great, or small, do it
right, or not at all." That's my words to live by.
Shad
P.S. If you can make it, come on down for the Ohio piet fly-in, june 19
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
It's a Decent Rate Indicator, but it'll never fly, Orville.
>
>
>Hi Gary,
>I think the VSI is called a "Rate of Descent Indicator" in a Piet.
>Thats what I have been telling Arlene anyway.
>Jim
>
>Jim Boyer
>Santa Rosa, CA
>Pietenpol on wheels
>Tail surfaces done
>Wing ribs done
>Corvair engine
--
Jeff Boatright
"Now let's think about this..."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another newbie! |
Welcome to the world of Pietenpols, and Pietenpolers.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
Just back from flying my Pietenpol down to Sun 'n' Fun
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of echobravo4
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 12:45 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Another newbie!
i'm in PA near Philadelphia
--------
I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up
where I intended to be.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=294542#294542
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net> |
It really is a beautiful panel, but where does the slip ball indicator go?
Ben Charvet
NX866BC
On 4/18/2010 7:16 PM, Gary Boothe wrote:
> Negative...got the obligatory in-law reunion...WooHoo!!
>
> Here's a pic of my panel progress....
>
> I can't find a pic of Walt's Piet.
>
> Gary Boothe
> Cool, Ca.
> Pietenpol
> WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
> Tail done, Fuselage on gear
> (18 ribs down.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
Center top...stay tuned...
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
18 ribs done
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Charvet
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 4:24 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Ryan's Piet
It really is a beautiful panel, but where does the slip ball indicator go?
Ben Charvet
NX866BC
On 4/18/2010 7:16 PM, Gary Boothe wrote:
> Negative...got the obligatory in-law reunion...WooHoo!!
>
> Here's a pic of my panel progress....
>
> I can't find a pic of Walt's Piet.
>
> Gary Boothe
> Cool, Ca.
> Pietenpol
> WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
> Tail done, Fuselage on gear
> (18 ribs down.)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael F. Townsley" <allischalmersguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: anybody with some spare time? |
Amen Douwe!!!
Pastor Mike Townsley
Douwe Blumberg wrote:
>
> Hey guys,
>
> Well, the more things are uncovered, the more we find. The latest kick in
> the gut turns out to be that the guy I bought the project from, who did much
> of the basic woodwork, while being a great carpenter, evidently wasn't a
> whiz at mixing glue. Looks like he used plastic resing glue (like weldwood
> that ASS spruce still sells) which is very sensetive to curing temps and
> mixing ratios. As they started fixing the wing at Sun N' Fun, they
> discovered the rib gussets would basically pop off without much effort,
> failing the glue joints, which obviously calls into question the rest of the
> airframe built by him.
>
> After recovering from this shock, I have decided again not to quit, but to
> uncover everything, and go over the structure with a fine tooth comb and
> replace/reinforce every questionable glue joint in the airframe. MOST of
> the glue joints in the fuse appear strong, well executed and came through
> the shock well. It appears as if he went too light on the wings producing
> some glue starved joints. However, every bit will be gone over and brought
> up to standard.
>
> The SNF gang decided that they could remove each gusset, clean it and epoxy
> it back without taking the wing apart and has done a large chunk of the wing
> they took. The other wing needs to be done and they both need recovering.
>
> Needless to say... though I am ressolute, and will not quit... I am more
> than a little discouraged right now. SO, I got to thinking...
>
> Is there anybody out there with woodworking skills and some time on their
> hands that I could contract some of this work out to? I'm thinking that if
> I could pay someone to do the wings while I did the fuselage, this might be
> less overwhelming and might help someone out who needs some extra income
> right now.
>
> The upshot of all this is that I strongly feel GOD's hand in all of this.
> If that gust hadn't sent Lowell into that ditch, I might not have discovered
> this until I was at four thousand feet somewhere. So it is actually a good
> thing and I am grateful, though very upset that I have been working away on
> a subpar structure for nine years.
>
> God is good!
>
> Douwe
>
> ps. John, we really enjoyed having you down, thanks for the help!!
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Ohio Pietenpol gathering |
Just to let everyone know, It is NOT the Ohio Pietenpol Fly-In, it is Shad and
Gary Bell's Pietenpol Party. Invatation only, pietenpol guys are invited. If
you happen to fly in to the party good for you. But Officially it's just a
party. ( a fly-in has too many insurance requirements). No one said you had
to fly in, in a Pietenpol, but it should have a tailwheel. Any questions, let
me know. So .... I look forward to the Pietenpol Party here on June 19 2010.
Grand Prize to the 1st Piet to arrive gets overnight hanger accomidations with
the Latex, Corvair, powered gizmo with a tailwheel. (along with 2 other partially
compleated airplanes)
Shad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Consequences, consequences,,,,,,, for deviating from The Great One's (Bern
erd's) plans!! Purists, live on!!!! "What a tangled web we weave".
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
NX929DH
-----Original Message-----
From: airlion <airlion(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Mon, Apr 19, 2010 9:53 am
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing flop
I do not have a flop, but I do have a curved opening over the rear pit for
easier ingress or egress. I would like to install a hinged cover out of
lexan over the top of the contour wing to keep wind off my back in the wi
nter. would this affect the aerodynamics ? Cheers, Gardiner Mason
From: Gary Boothe <gboothe5(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Mon, April 19, 2010 8:28:25 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing flop
Chris,
Here=99s a pic I took of Larry Williams=99 Piet last year. Loo
ks like he chose to make the flop same width as the C/S, with the fairing
attached.
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(18 ribs down)
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-li
st-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 10:51 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wing flop
I am installing a flop in the center of my wing and want to know if making
it the same width (12" cord) as the aileron is a good idea or should it
be wider? Basically it would be built like the a 3rd aileron just shorte
r in length, about 24 inches long. Speaking of length, should it exstend
beyond the center section lendth?
Chris
Sacramento ,Ca
Westcoastpiet.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
My two cents on the wing flop issue. I use the
centersection flop on 41CC every single time I
get in or get out of the airplane. It is the
full width of the (3-piece wing) centersection,
is hinged, and is square across the back (not
radiused cut out). My entry technique is to
raise the flop with my head as I climb into the
cockpit, or vice-versa as I exit. I do not
flop it all the way over onto the wing because
I've had an instance or two where the wind
flopped it right back down and pulled one or
two screws through the metal of the piano hinge.
Normal practice is to park with the nose into
the wind so the flop is always in danger of
being flopped back down by the wind.
The centersection flop on 41CC has latches but
I've never latched them except when parking the
airplane in high winds. It never moves in
flight, despite stories about how the lift over
the top of the wing will pull it up in flight.
If anything, the flow of air over the wing
tends to hold it firmly down, and when I push
up on it in flight, it takes a very firm push
to hold it up in the airstream.
The flop definitely serves to shade the pilot
when it's sunny and definitely helps to push
the windstream back past the pilot instead of
down into the cockpit. When it's cold, I lean
slightly forward to get behind the windscreen
and out of the slipstream pouring off the back
of the flop.
The radiused cutout with grab handles does
look nifty though.
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skellytown flyer" <skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com> |
The information about them is sure helpful. I am not going to change mine right
now since I want to get it flying, but what if a fellow bolted a simple handle
to the backside of the rear spar on the center section to grab climbing in and
out.and then slotted the front of the flop to close over it? sure might be
a neat compromise.I sure may try it on mine at some point. Raymond
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=294951#294951
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net> |
Good idea. That is what some others have done, and what I will have, more or less.
-----Original Message-----
>From: skellytown flyer <skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com>
>Sent: Apr 20, 2010 8:15 AM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing flop
>
>
>The information about them is sure helpful. I am not going to change mine right
now since I want to get it flying, but what if a fellow bolted a simple handle
to the backside of the rear spar on the center section to grab climbing in
and out.and then slotted the front of the flop to close over it? sure might be
a neat compromise.I sure may try it on mine at some point. Raymond
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=294951#294951
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lawrence Williams <lnawms(at)yahoo.com> |
Larry Williams' flop extends past the centersection into the port wing stru
cture about 8".=0A=0AThose of you with centersection cut-outs-WILL lose a
bit of climb performance.=0A=0ALarry Williams=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
Thats what I did also.
rick
On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 7:15 AM, skellytown flyer wrote:
> skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com>
> ats
> The information about them is sure helpful. I am not going to change mine
> right now since I want to get it flying, but what if a fellow bolted a
> simple handle to the backside of the rear spar on the center section to grab
> climbing in and out.and then slotted the front of the flop to close over it?
> sure might be a neat compromise.I sure may try it on mine at some point.
> Raymond
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=294951#294951
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cockpit covering for tying down outside |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
Here's a question for Piet (or open cockpit in general) fliers:
For those that do not have, or did not always have, custom snap on/in
cockpit covers for your Piet, how do you cover the cockpits when having to
leave the airplane tied down outside overnight or in inclement weather? For
example, we will be meeting our Piet at Brodhead this year, and we'll
probably have it there Thursday through Sunday morning. I would imagine a
tarp and some light rope would be sufficient, but I thought I would ask and
see if there was a better/more desirable solution. Thanks,
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Piano hinge instalation |
| From: | "Catdesigns" <Catdesigns(at)att.net> |
Can some of you who have installed full length piano hinges for the ailerons please
explain how you did it. Can I glue in both of the 1/2 inch beams and then
drill the holes for the hinge later? Or do I need to drill the holes before
gluing them in. If you glued both in the wing, how did you hold the hinge in place
when you drilled the holes? And how did you know you were going to hit the
hinge in the correct place? As always pictures of you doing this are always
appreciated.
Thanks
Chris
--------
Chris
Sacramento, CA
WestCoastPiet.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=294986#294986
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Whaley" <MerlinFAC(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit covering for tying down outside |
I considered this same issue and lucked into an elegant solution... I found
some surplus bomb bay actuators and hanges at an aviation flea market a
couple years ago, they only cost me a couple thousand bucks for the whole
set of 16. A few hundred more to restore the 8 units that I actually need,
and they look spiffy. The guy said they were from a B-36 but I think he
either lied or was confused since the serial numbers match a B-58, which is
fine for my purposes. I also got a surplus high-pressure hydraulic pump to
drive them, it's not that much bigger than the Corvair, so I think I can
mount that into a very unobtrusive pod under the fuselage. I'm making a
remotely-actuated, bifold, articulated cockpit cover to close over both the
front and rear 'pits to protect from the weather and such. I also got a good
deal on some old B-29 wing skins that are slightly curved in just the right
way, so I'll just cut those to shape for the 'pit covers. I'm also going to
drive the wing flop position with the same system. My flight data computer
(surplus B-52 part, it's about the size of a microwave oven and only about
85 lbs, but I haven't re-wired it yet) should be able to automatically
calculate the proper flop position several times a second, so it can double
as both a flap for takeoff and as a spoiler for quick descents. I figure
that I'll need that capability, since with all the streamlining and such
it'll be hard to get the Piet to come down otherwise.
BTW, anyone know anything about reprogramming a B-52 flight data computer?
-Mike
Mike Whaley
MerlinFAC(at)cfl.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Mueller" <rmueller23(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 12:42 PM
Subject: [piet] Pietenpol-List: Cockpit covering for tying down outside
> Here's a question for Piet (or open cockpit in general) fliers:
>
> For those that do not have, or did not always have, custom snap on/in
> cockpit covers for your Piet, how do you cover the cockpits when having to
> leave the airplane tied down outside overnight or in inclement weather?
For
> example, we will be meeting our Piet at Brodhead this year, and we'll
> probably have it there Thursday through Sunday morning. I would imagine a
> tarp and some light rope would be sufficient, but I thought I would ask
and
> see if there was a better/more desirable solution. Thanks,
>
> Ryan
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Piano hinge instalation |
| From: | "Catdesigns" <Catdesigns(at)att.net> |
All right, I admit it I made a newbie mistake. I asked before I searched the archives.
As usual I found a wealth of information in the archives on piano hinge
installation and even found pictures on Jack Textors website. When will
I learn?
To answer my own question, I can glue in the two aileron spars and then cut out
the aileron for hinge installation. Rolled hinges are ok and cheaper, use 100
degree counter sunk holes not the 80 degree or use low profile head screws (my
personal choice). Install nut plates on the back with glue and screws.
Ok, now that that is solved you can all get back to working on your planes.
Thanks
Chris
--------
Chris
Sacramento, CA
WestCoastPiet.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=294995#294995
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Paule" <dpaule(at)frii.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit covering for tying down outside |
Dang, and I gave away my old B-52 flight manual, too. Sorry! But I think
that if you change out the printed circuit card for the -H version, it'll
work well enough. Maybe you can get a local high school kid to help with
that.
Still, I've got to ask... did you install the zero-zero ejection seats or
the original ones that needed some altitude to work with? If you used the
original ones be careful, because they don't like a rate of descent. Best to
operate while still in a rate of ascent, if achievable.
David Paule
>
> I considered this same issue and lucked into an elegant solution... I
> found
> some surplus bomb bay actuators and hanges at an aviation flea market a
> couple years ago, they only cost me a couple thousand bucks for the whole
> set of 16. A few hundred more to restore the 8 units that I actually need,
> and they look spiffy. The guy said they were from a B-36 but I think he
> either lied or was confused since the serial numbers match a B-58, which
> is
> fine for my purposes. I also got a surplus high-pressure hydraulic pump to
> drive them, it's not that much bigger than the Corvair, so I think I can
> mount that into a very unobtrusive pod under the fuselage. I'm making a
> remotely-actuated, bifold, articulated cockpit cover to close over both
> the
> front and rear 'pits to protect from the weather and such. I also got a
> good
> deal on some old B-29 wing skins that are slightly curved in just the
> right
> way, so I'll just cut those to shape for the 'pit covers. I'm also going
> to
> drive the wing flop position with the same system. My flight data computer
> (surplus B-52 part, it's about the size of a microwave oven and only about
> 85 lbs, but I haven't re-wired it yet) should be able to automatically
> calculate the proper flop position several times a second, so it can
> double
> as both a flap for takeoff and as a spoiler for quick descents. I figure
> that I'll need that capability, since with all the streamlining and such
> it'll be hard to get the Piet to come down otherwise.
>
> BTW, anyone know anything about reprogramming a B-52 flight data computer?
>
> -Mike
>
> Mike Whaley
> MerlinFAC(at)cfl.rr.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ryan Mueller" <rmueller23(at)gmail.com>
> To: "Pietenpol List"
> Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 12:42 PM
> Subject: [piet] Pietenpol-List: Cockpit covering for tying down outside
>
>
>> Here's a question for Piet (or open cockpit in general) fliers:
>>
>> For those that do not have, or did not always have, custom snap on/in
>> cockpit covers for your Piet, how do you cover the cockpits when having
>> to
>> leave the airplane tied down outside overnight or in inclement weather?
> For
>> example, we will be meeting our Piet at Brodhead this year, and we'll
>> probably have it there Thursday through Sunday morning. I would imagine a
>> tarp and some light rope would be sufficient, but I thought I would ask
> and
>> see if there was a better/more desirable solution. Thanks,
>>
>> Ryan
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Schreiber" <lmforge(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Piano hinge instalation |
Chris,
I started to respond when your second e-mail came in. I was going to
say.......
Here is what I did. Both of the 1/2 inch beams were glued in place as was
all of the filler strips between the rib cap strips, before the ailerons
are cut free. When locating the 1/2 inch false spars, make sure you have
the proper gap between them. If the gap is not the right size for your
piano hinge size and location, the aileron trailing edge will not line up
with the wing. Once the ailerons were finished with all bracing in place,
I cut the ailerons free. Next sand the face of the 1/2 inch false spars so
that the cut off cap strips are flush with the flat surface.
I have attached some photos. I did not countersink the holes, but used
washer head screws instead. There was no problem with clearance. Watch the
location of the mounting holes on the aileron. There is not much wood on
the back of the aileron false spar due to the shape of the aileron.
Regards,
Rick Schreiber
> [Original Message]
> From: Catdesigns <Catdesigns(at)att.net>
> To:
> Date: 4/20/2010 12:32:43 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Piano hinge instalation
>
>
> Can some of you who have installed full length piano hinges for the
ailerons please explain how you did it. Can I glue in both of the 1/2 inch
beams and then drill the holes for the hinge later? Or do I need to drill
the holes before gluing them in. If you glued both in the wing, how did you
hold the hinge in place when you drilled the holes? And how did you know
you were going to hit the hinge in the correct place? As always pictures
of you doing this are always appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> Chris
>
> --------
> Chris
> Sacramento, CA
> WestCoastPiet.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=294986#294986
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Piano hinge instalation |
Chris, I am getting 3 copies of your emails. Why?
-----Original Message-----
>From: Catdesigns <Catdesigns(at)att.net>
>Sent: Apr 20, 2010 2:10 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Piano hinge instalation
>
>
>All right, I admit it I made a newbie mistake. I asked before I searched the
archives. As usual I found a wealth of information in the archives on piano
hinge installation and even found pictures on Jack Textors website. When will
I learn?
>
>To answer my own question, I can glue in the two aileron spars and then cut out
the aileron for hinge installation. Rolled hinges are ok and cheaper, use 100
degree counter sunk holes not the 80 degree or use low profile head screws (my
personal choice). Install nut plates on the back with glue and screws.
>
>Ok, now that that is solved you can all get back to working on your planes.
>
>Thanks
>
>Chris
>
>--------
>Chris
>Sacramento, CA
>WestCoastPiet.com
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=294995#294995
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation]" <michael.d.cuy(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Cockpit covering for tying down outside |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lagowski Morrow" <jimdeb(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit covering for tying down outside |
I used waterproofed canvas pieces (2) and shock cords to grommets and
parts of the plane. I used small sailing pad eyes on the bottom of the
fuselage. Every thing rolls up into a small bag--Jim Lagowski, making 2
new windshields, one cracked by a "friend".
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Mueller
To: Pietenpol List
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 12:42 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Cockpit covering for tying down outside
Here's a question for Piet (or open cockpit in general) fliers:
For those that do not have, or did not always have, custom snap on/in
cockpit covers for your Piet, how do you cover the cockpits when having
to leave the airplane tied down outside overnight or in inclement
weather? For example, we will be meeting our Piet at Brodhead this year,
and we'll probably have it there Thursday through Sunday morning. I
would imagine a tarp and some light rope would be sufficient, but I
thought I would ask and see if there was a better/more desirable
solution. Thanks,
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Piano hinge instalation |
| From: | "Catdesigns" <Catdesigns(at)att.net> |
Rick
Thanks for the pictures and advice. That is exactly the help I needed. I too
am planning on using the washer head screws. And that drill guide, don't you just
love how well it works. I use the same thing all the time. Do you happen
to remember the gap you left between the 1/2 inch false spars? I measure the rolled
part of the hinge to be 1/4 inch on my hinge.
Chris
--------
Chris
Sacramento, CA
WestCoastPiet.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295013#295013
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stromberg carb |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
MA3-SPA 'only' $900 rebuilt from D&G. But does work great.
rick
On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 2:09 PM, Ryan Mueller wrote:
> There are varying claims out there as to the effectiveness of the Strombe
rg
> mixture, but it generally seems to boil down to the fact that it doesn't
> quite function like "normal" mixture controls that you may be accustomed
to,
> and that it's effects occur more gradually.
>
> You might consider spending the extra money to get a Marvel Schebler
> MA3-SPA, if you plan on frequent manipulation of the mixture. It should h
ave
> a more "positive" mixture control, and you get the added benefit of havin
g
> an idle/cut off. You also save on the cost/time of purchasing and install
ing
> a primer, due to the Marvel having an accelerator pump. With that savings
it
> doesn't end up being that much more expensive than the Stromberg....
>
> Ryan
>
> On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 12:32 PM, <brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks for your replies. Then I guess the 3a would be better for my
>> altitude, field elev. Is 4470.
>>
>>
>>
>> Brian
>>
>> SLC-UT
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
>> owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *ALAN LYSCARS
>> *Sent:* Friday, April 09, 2010 12:08 PM
>>
>> *To:* pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>> *Subject:* Re: Pietenpol-List: Stromberg carb
>>
>>
>>
>> Brian,
>>
>>
>>
>> These carbs- the 3a and 3b- are functionally identical. The "3a" has a
>> functional mixture control, while the "3b" does not.
>>
>>
>>
>> The mixture control on the 3a has no effect for us Corvair users operati
ng
>> below 8,000 feet MSL. The control does not work as an idle-cutoff as on
e
>> might expect. Rather, it can be used for leaning the burn at cruise, bu
t is
>> only effective at high elevations.
>>
>>
>>
>> Most if not all 3a's had their mixture wired in the "full rich" position
>> when attached to C65's or C85's.
>>
>>
>>
>> Hope this helps.
>>
>>
>>
>> Al Lyscars
>>
>> Manchester, NH
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>
>> *From:* brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com
>>
>> *To:* pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>>
>> *Sent:* Friday, April 09, 2010 12:19 PM
>>
>> *Subject:* Pietenpol-List: Stromberg carb
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Group,
>>
>> I have been watching a few ads for a Stromberg carb for my =9Ccran
k snapin=9D
>> Corvair. Which would be the preferred carb the NA-S3A or the NA-S3B or d
oes
>> it not make a difference?
>>
>>
>>
>> Brian
>>
>> SLC-UT
>>
>> =EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD~=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD,=DE=AE=E9=A2=A2
=EF=BD=EF=BD
>>
>> * *
>>
>> * *
>>
>> *p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List" target="_blank">http:
//www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List*
>>
>> **
>>
>> ics.com" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com======
================
>> =EF=BD -Matt = -->
>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution ===========
===========
>>
>> * *
>>
>>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stromberg carb |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
We spent $200 for our Stromberg carb core and $450 for the overhaul at D&G,
if I recall. I probably would have went with the Essex Primer from ACS
($165), which would have brought the total to $815. The MA3-SPA turns out t
o
not be such a bad deal....
Ryan
On Tue, Apr 20, 2010 at 3:15 PM, Rick Holland wrote:
> MA3-SPA 'only' $900 rebuilt from D&G. But does work great.
>
> rick
>
> On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 2:09 PM, Ryan Mueller wrote
:
>
>> There are varying claims out there as to the effectiveness of the
>> Stromberg mixture, but it generally seems to boil down to the fact that
it
>> doesn't quite function like "normal" mixture controls that you may be
>> accustomed to, and that it's effects occur more gradually.
>>
>> You might consider spending the extra money to get a Marvel Schebler
>> MA3-SPA, if you plan on frequent manipulation of the mixture. It should
have
>> a more "positive" mixture control, and you get the added benefit of havi
ng
>> an idle/cut off. You also save on the cost/time of purchasing and instal
ling
>> a primer, due to the Marvel having an accelerator pump. With that saving
s it
>> doesn't end up being that much more expensive than the Stromberg....
>>
>> Ryan
>>
>> On Mon, Apr 12, 2010 at 12:32 PM, <brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for your replies. Then I guess the 3a would be better for my
>>> altitude, field elev. Is 4470.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Brian
>>>
>>> SLC-UT
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
>>> owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *ALAN LYSCARS
>>> *Sent:* Friday, April 09, 2010 12:08 PM
>>>
>>> *To:* pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>>> *Subject:* Re: Pietenpol-List: Stromberg carb
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Brian,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> These carbs- the 3a and 3b- are functionally identical. The "3a" has a
>>> functional mixture control, while the "3b" does not.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The mixture control on the 3a has no effect for us Corvair users
>>> operating below 8,000 feet MSL. The control does not work as an idle-c
utoff
>>> as one might expect. Rather, it can be used for leaning the burn at cr
uise,
>>> but is only effective at high elevations.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Most if not all 3a's had their mixture wired in the "full rich" positio
n
>>> when attached to C65's or C85's.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hope this helps.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Al Lyscars
>>>
>>> Manchester, NH
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>
>>> *From:* brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com
>>>
>>> *To:* pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>>>
>>> *Sent:* Friday, April 09, 2010 12:19 PM
>>>
>>> *Subject:* Pietenpol-List: Stromberg carb
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Group,
>>>
>>> I have been watching a few ads for a Stromberg carb for my =9Ccra
nk snapin=9D
>>> Corvair. Which would be the preferred carb the NA-S3A or the NA-S3B or
does
>>> it not make a difference?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Brian
>>>
>>> SLC-UT
>>>
>>> =EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD~=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD,=DE=AE=E9=A2=A2
=EF=BD=EF=BD
>>>
>>> * *
>>>
>>> * *
>>>
>>> *p://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List" target="_blank">http
://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List*
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> ics.com" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com=====
=================
>>> =EF=BD -Matt = -->
>>> http://www.matronics.com/contribution ===========
===========
>>>
>>> * *
>>>
>>>
>> *
>>
>> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> *
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Rick Holland
> Castle Rock, Colorado
>
> "Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Piano hinge instalation |
Chris, the one question you didn't ask and answer yourself was whether or
not to use a single 6' hinge per side, or multiple short pieces. Mike Cuy
used a single long hinge on each aileron. I used Tony Bingelis' suggestion
to use several short pieces so that any flex of the wing in flight doesn't
cause the ailerons to bind. Forget that stuff - use one long hinge. Much
easier to mount and keep it aligned. Also allows for easy removal of the
aileron by just pulling the hinge pin. Each of my pins are peened in place
and they can't be removed, meaning if I have to remove an aileron, I have to
remove all those screws.
If I flexed my wing enough to cause the hinges to bind I'd pass out from the
G loading.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Catdesigns
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 2:11 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Piano hinge instalation
All right, I admit it I made a newbie mistake. I asked before I searched
the archives. As usual I found a wealth of information in the archives on
piano hinge installation and even found pictures on Jack Textors website.
When will I learn?
To answer my own question, I can glue in the two aileron spars and then cut
out the aileron for hinge installation. Rolled hinges are ok and cheaper,
use 100 degree counter sunk holes not the 80 degree or use low profile head
screws (my personal choice). Install nut plates on the back with glue and
screws.
Ok, now that that is solved you can all get back to working on your planes.
Thanks
Chris
--------
Chris
Sacramento, CA
WestCoastPiet.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=294995#294995
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Schreiber" <lmforge(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Piano hinge instalation |
Chris
The space between my aileron bay false spar and the edge/corner of the
aileron false spar was 3/16 inch. Once the wing false spar was glued in
place I clamped three or four 3/16 inch shims in place and then glued in
the aileron false spar. I have a autocad drwing of what I did if you can
read it.
Your sure right about the drill guide. I use it all the time.
Rick
> [Original Message]
> From: Catdesigns <Catdesigns(at)att.net>
> To:
> Date: 4/20/2010 2:43:52 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Piano hinge instalation
>
>
> Rick
>
> Thanks for the pictures and advice. That is exactly the help I needed.
I too am planning on using the washer head screws. And that drill guide,
don't you just love how well it works. I use the same thing all the time.
Do you happen to remember the gap you left between the 1/2 inch false
spars? I measure the rolled part of the hinge to be 1/4 inch on my hinge.
>
> Chris
>
> --------
> Chris
> Sacramento, CA
> WestCoastPiet.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295013#295013
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Piano hinge instalation |
| From: | "Bill Church" <billspiet(at)sympatico.ca> |
That's weird. Doesn't happen to me.
That's weird. Doesn't happen to me.
That's weird. Doesn't happen to me.
Tim wrote:
Chris, I am getting 3 copies of your emails. Why?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295041#295041
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit covering for tying down outside |
| From: | "Don Emch" <EmchAir(at)aol.com> |
Hey Thanks Mike!
I'm really not as homesick as I look in that picture! In fact I really enjoyed
the whole Brodhead and Oshkosh trip last year. Even during the rain!
The tarp was a quick last minute answer for my first trip to Brodhead a few years
back. I've been wanting to get covers made but just haven't gotten around
to it. The tarp is just an 8' x 10' Walmart Special with a couple of tent stakes
and clothesline. Tied nice and tight it has weathered several storms and
packs pretty tight. I would like to get a nice canvas tarp about the same size.
It would be a little more 'period like'.
Boy, that picture kinda makes me want to fly back up there this year!
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295042#295042
________________________________________________________________________________
Does anyone have pictures of this drill guide that has been mentioned or
a drawing diagram? Thanks.
Brian
SLC-UT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard
Schreiber
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 5:22 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Piano hinge instalation
Chris
The space between my aileron bay false spar and the edge/corner of the
aileron false spar was 3/16 inch. Once the wing false spar was glued in
place I clamped three or four 3/16 inch shims in place and then glued in
the aileron false spar. I have a autocad drwing of what I did if you can
read it.
Your sure right about the drill guide. I use it all the time.
Rick
> [Original Message]
> From: Catdesigns <Catdesigns(at)att.net>
> To:
> Date: 4/20/2010 2:43:52 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Piano hinge instalation
>
>
> Rick
>
> Thanks for the pictures and advice. That is exactly the help I
needed.
I too am planning on using the washer head screws. And that drill guide,
don't you just love how well it works. I use the same thing all the
time.
Do you happen to remember the gap you left between the 1/2 inch false
spars? I measure the rolled part of the hinge to be 1/4 inch on my
hinge.
>
> Chris
>
> --------
> Chris
> Sacramento, CA
> WestCoastPiet.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295013#295013
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <catdesigns(at)att.net> |
Brian
This is the one I have used for almost ever hole so far.
http://westcoastpiet.com/drilling_holes.htm
Chris
Sacramento,Ca
Westcoastpiet.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 6:19 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Drill guide
Does anyone have pictures of this drill guide that has been mentioned or a
drawing diagram? Thanks.
Brian
SLC-UT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard
Schreiber
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 5:22 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Piano hinge instalation
Chris
The space between my aileron bay false spar and the edge/corner of the
aileron false spar was 3/16 inch. Once the wing false spar was glued in
place I clamped three or four 3/16 inch shims in place and then glued in the
aileron false spar. I have a autocad drwing of what I did if you can read
it.
Your sure right about the drill guide. I use it all the time.
Rick
> [Original Message]
> From: Catdesigns <Catdesigns(at)att.net>
> To:
> Date: 4/20/2010 2:43:52 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Piano hinge instalation
>
>
> Rick
>
> Thanks for the pictures and advice. That is exactly the help I
needed.
I too am planning on using the washer head screws. And that drill guide,
don't you just love how well it works. I use the same thing all the time.
Do you happen to remember the gap you left between the 1/2 inch false spars?
I measure the rolled part of the hinge to be 1/4 inch on my hinge.
>
> Chris
>
> --------
> Chris
> Sacramento, CA
> WestCoastPiet.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295013#295013
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
Brian,
I think, with tongue in cheek, Chris was referring to the block of wood.
Mine consists of a block of Oak, with various hole sizes drilled from my
drill press. You can locate the block with an awl or center punch, clamp in
to place, drill away.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
18 ribs done
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 6:19 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Drill guide
Does anyone have pictures of this drill guide that has been mentioned or
a drawing diagram? Thanks.
Brian
SLC-UT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard
Schreiber
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 5:22 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Piano hinge instalation
Chris
The space between my aileron bay false spar and the edge/corner of the
aileron false spar was 3/16 inch. Once the wing false spar was glued in
place I clamped three or four 3/16 inch shims in place and then glued in
the aileron false spar. I have a autocad drwing of what I did if you can
read it.
Your sure right about the drill guide. I use it all the time.
Rick
> [Original Message]
> From: Catdesigns <Catdesigns(at)att.net>
> To:
> Date: 4/20/2010 2:43:52 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Piano hinge instalation
>
>
> Rick
>
> Thanks for the pictures and advice. That is exactly the help I
needed.
I too am planning on using the washer head screws. And that drill guide,
don't you just love how well it works. I use the same thing all the
time.
Do you happen to remember the gap you left between the 1/2 inch false
spars? I measure the rolled part of the hinge to be 1/4 inch on my
hinge.
>
> Chris
>
> --------
> Chris
> Sacramento, CA
> WestCoastPiet.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295013#295013
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Schreiber" <lmforge(at)earthlink.net> |
Brian
In addition to the hardwood block design that Chris just mentioned I also
used a "U" shaped jig made from copper water pipe fittings and stainless
steel tubing. Complete info on the drill jig came from Clif Dawson. Here is
a link..... http://clifdawson.ca/Tools_and_Tips.html. The copper tubing
jig works great for drilling the fittings on the spars. I have attaced
photos of both type drill jigs in use.
Rick Schreiber
> [Original Message]
> From: <brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com>
> To:
> Date: 4/21/2010 8:25:56 AM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Drill guide
>
>
> Does anyone have pictures of this drill guide that has been mentioned or
> a drawing diagram? Thanks.
>
> Brian
> SLC-UT
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard
> Schreiber
> Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 5:22 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Piano hinge instalation
>
>
>
> Chris
> The space between my aileron bay false spar and the edge/corner of the
> aileron false spar was 3/16 inch. Once the wing false spar was glued in
> place I clamped three or four 3/16 inch shims in place and then glued in
> the aileron false spar. I have a autocad drwing of what I did if you can
> read it.
>
> Your sure right about the drill guide. I use it all the time.
>
> Rick
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: Catdesigns <Catdesigns(at)att.net>
> > To:
> > Date: 4/20/2010 2:43:52 PM
> > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Piano hinge instalation
> >
>
> >
> > Rick
> >
> > Thanks for the pictures and advice. That is exactly the help I
> needed.
> I too am planning on using the washer head screws. And that drill guide,
> don't you just love how well it works. I use the same thing all the
> time.
> Do you happen to remember the gap you left between the 1/2 inch false
> spars? I measure the rolled part of the hinge to be 1/4 inch on my
> hinge.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> > --------
> > Chris
> > Sacramento, CA
> > WestCoastPiet.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295013#295013
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Krause" <raykrause(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Piano hinge instalation |
Drill guide: What one are you folks using? Where do you purchase one? I
have a very old one, but there must be a better one since this one was
manufactured 50 years ago!
Thanks,
Ray Krause
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Schreiber" <lmforge(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 4:22 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Piano hinge instalation
>
>
> Chris
> The space between my aileron bay false spar and the edge/corner of the
> aileron false spar was 3/16 inch. Once the wing false spar was glued in
> place I clamped three or four 3/16 inch shims in place and then glued in
> the aileron false spar. I have a autocad drwing of what I did if you can
> read it.
>
> Your sure right about the drill guide. I use it all the time.
>
> Rick
>
>
>> [Original Message]
>> From: Catdesigns <Catdesigns(at)att.net>
>> To:
>> Date: 4/20/2010 2:43:52 PM
>> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Piano hinge instalation
>>
>>
>> Rick
>>
>> Thanks for the pictures and advice. That is exactly the help I needed.
> I too am planning on using the washer head screws. And that drill guide,
> don't you just love how well it works. I use the same thing all the time.
> Do you happen to remember the gap you left between the 1/2 inch false
> spars? I measure the rolled part of the hinge to be 1/4 inch on my hinge.
>>
>> Chris
>>
>> --------
>> Chris
>> Sacramento, CA
>> WestCoastPiet.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295013#295013
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff wilson <jlwilsonnn(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Piano hinge instalation |
If your drill guide is 50 years old, it was probably made in America. How can
you get better than that?
Jeff Wilson
N899WT
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Terry Burtz Model A |
| From: | "pflyboy" <nick_d_av8r(at)msn.com> |
Has anybody here seen this? Living in Colorado, I am VERY interested.
http://www.modelaengine.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295124#295124
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Catdesigns" <Catdesigns(at)att.net> |
Great pictures Rick! These are the kind of pictures we all need to post more often.
This way people can see how we do things not just how they look when finished.
I used to be so afraid of drilling holes that I didn't do it for a long
time. Pictures like these would have been invaluable to me when I started this
3 year project 8 years ago.
I also drilled the holes for my wing strut fittings by hand but did it slightly
different than you did. I only drill holes in one of the fittings then use this
as a guide to drill the holes in the spar (or what ever you are drilling).
Then I clamped on the back fitting and use the newly drilled holes in the spar
as a guide (with the brass tubing protecting the hole) to drill the holes in
the back fitting. Note, do not cut the back fitting to final size until after
drilling all the holes. (learned the hard way)
As an example, here is a shot of me drilling the inner fitting on the landing gear.
( I guess need to upload some pictures of me drilling the other wing fittings.)
http://www.westcoastpiet.com/images/Construction%20of%20Wood%20Gear/IMG_1656.JPG
And here is how I drilled the center fitting for the 3-piece wing.
http://www.westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/IMG_1967.JPG
http://www.westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/IMG_1981.JPG
Chris
--------
Chris
Sacramento, CA
WestCoastPiet.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295129#295129
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Terry Burtz Model A |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
Am building a Corvair/Piet in Castle Rock Colorado Terry if you may be
interested in coming over and taking a look. Would be great to be able to
build a Model A Piet with enough power to handle 10,000 ft. density
altitudes.
rick
On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 12:22 PM, pflyboy wrote:
>
> Has anybody here seen this? Living in Colorado, I am VERY interested.
>
> http://www.modelaengine.com/
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295124#295124
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Krause" <raykrause(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Piano hinge instalation |
I will take a picture and send it along, If I can figure how to do it! I
inherited it from my Dad.
Ray Krause
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff wilson" <jlwilsonnn(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 11:07 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Piano hinge instalation
>
> If your drill guide is 50 years old, it was probably made in America. How
> can you get better than that?
> Jeff Wilson
> N899WT
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Whaley" <MerlinFAC(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit covering for tying down outside |
Actually I've changed out the B-52 computer now for a surplus NASA unit from
the Space Shuttle. It weighs a lot more, and it's actually fairly low-tech,
but it's radiation hardened which could be important on those long trips at
high altitude. Besides, unemployed shuttle engineers are a dime a dozen
around here, so support won't be much of a problem. Also in keeping with the
Shuttle thing, I've decided to build a reinforced titanium capsule for the
occupants, which can be ejected at any altitude, attitude, or speed by four
military JATO rockets I have acquired. With the cockpit covering doors
closed, the capsule should be watertight down to about 80 meters. Which is
good, because I don't think it's going to float very well like the old F-111
escape capsules (I estimate the weight at between 2,900 and 3,300 lbs). Of
course I've added an oxygen supply good for 8 days and a full kitchenette
and pantry... just in case.
Only downside to all my improvements are that the original wire wheels
deformed badly under the increased load, so I'm installing a set of surplus
727 main wheel asemblies that I got a good deal on from eBay. I'm also
adding 6 inches to each wing to make up for the additional weight of the
wheels.
What could possibly go wrong?
-Mike
Mike Whaley
MerlinFAC(at)cfl.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Paule" <dpaule(at)frii.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 2:29 PM
Subject: [piet] Re: Pietenpol-List: Cockpit covering for tying down outside
>
> Dang, and I gave away my old B-52 flight manual, too. Sorry! But I think
> that if you change out the printed circuit card for the -H version, it'll
> work well enough. Maybe you can get a local high school kid to help with
> that.
>
> Still, I've got to ask... did you install the zero-zero ejection seats or
> the original ones that needed some altitude to work with? If you used the
> original ones be careful, because they don't like a rate of descent. Best
to
> operate while still in a rate of ascent, if achievable.
>
> David Paule
>
>
> >
> > I considered this same issue and lucked into an elegant solution... I
> > found
> > some surplus bomb bay actuators and hanges at an aviation flea market a
> > couple years ago, they only cost me a couple thousand bucks for the
whole
> > set of 16. A few hundred more to restore the 8 units that I actually
need,
> > and they look spiffy. The guy said they were from a B-36 but I think he
> > either lied or was confused since the serial numbers match a B-58, which
> > is
> > fine for my purposes. I also got a surplus high-pressure hydraulic pump
to
> > drive them, it's not that much bigger than the Corvair, so I think I can
> > mount that into a very unobtrusive pod under the fuselage. I'm making a
> > remotely-actuated, bifold, articulated cockpit cover to close over both
> > the
> > front and rear 'pits to protect from the weather and such. I also got a
> > good
> > deal on some old B-29 wing skins that are slightly curved in just the
> > right
> > way, so I'll just cut those to shape for the 'pit covers. I'm also going
> > to
> > drive the wing flop position with the same system. My flight data
computer
> > (surplus B-52 part, it's about the size of a microwave oven and only
about
> > 85 lbs, but I haven't re-wired it yet) should be able to automatically
> > calculate the proper flop position several times a second, so it can
> > double
> > as both a flap for takeoff and as a spoiler for quick descents. I figure
> > that I'll need that capability, since with all the streamlining and such
> > it'll be hard to get the Piet to come down otherwise.
> >
> > BTW, anyone know anything about reprogramming a B-52 flight data
computer?
> >
> > -Mike
> >
> > Mike Whaley
> > MerlinFAC(at)cfl.rr.com
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Ryan Mueller" <rmueller23(at)gmail.com>
> > To: "Pietenpol List"
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 12:42 PM
> > Subject: [piet] Pietenpol-List: Cockpit covering for tying down outside
> >
> >
> >> Here's a question for Piet (or open cockpit in general) fliers:
> >>
> >> For those that do not have, or did not always have, custom snap on/in
> >> cockpit covers for your Piet, how do you cover the cockpits when having
> >> to
> >> leave the airplane tied down outside overnight or in inclement weather?
> > For
> >> example, we will be meeting our Piet at Brodhead this year, and we'll
> >> probably have it there Thursday through Sunday morning. I would imagine
a
> >> tarp and some light rope would be sufficient, but I thought I would ask
> > and
> >> see if there was a better/more desirable solution. Thanks,
> >>
> >> Ryan
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
Or you can use something like my somewhat crud but effective drill guide
(see attached). No surprises where the drill is going to emerge out the
other side of your spar. Can predrill all your strut fittings identically.
Notice I welded on an extra pair of tubes so the same guide will do 1/4" and
3/16".
rick
On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 12:55 PM, Catdesigns wrote:
>
> Great pictures Rick! These are the kind of pictures we all need to post
> more often. This way people can see how we do things not just how they look
> when finished. I used to be so afraid of drilling holes that I didn't do it
> for a long time. Pictures like these would have been invaluable to me when I
> started this 3 year project 8 years ago.
>
> I also drilled the holes for my wing strut fittings by hand but did it
> slightly different than you did. I only drill holes in one of the fittings
> then use this as a guide to drill the holes in the spar (or what ever you
> are drilling). Then I clamped on the back fitting and use the newly drilled
> holes in the spar as a guide (with the brass tubing protecting the hole) to
> drill the holes in the back fitting. Note, do not cut the back fitting to
> final size until after drilling all the holes. (learned the hard way)
>
> As an example, here is a shot of me drilling the inner fitting on the
> landing gear. ( I guess need to upload some pictures of me drilling the
> other wing fittings.)
>
> http://www.westcoastpiet.com/images/Construction%20of%20Wood%20Gear/IMG_1656.JPG
>
> And here is how I drilled the center fitting for the 3-piece wing.
>
> http://www.westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/IMG_1967.JPG
> http://www.westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/IMG_1981.JPG
>
>
> Chris
>
> --------
> Chris
> Sacramento, CA
> WestCoastPiet.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295129#295129
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
Thanks guys for all the replies on the drill guide. The pictures speak
for themselves, now I get to go make me one.
Brian
SLC-UT
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Holland
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 2:51 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Drill guide
Or you can use something like my somewhat crud but effective drill guide
(see attached). No surprises where the drill is going to emerge out the
other side of your spar. Can predrill all your strut fittings
identically. Notice I welded on an extra pair of tubes so the same guide
will do 1/4" and 3/16".
rick
On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 12:55 PM, Catdesigns wrote:
Great pictures Rick! These are the kind of pictures we all need to post
more often. This way people can see how we do things not just how they
look when finished. I used to be so afraid of drilling holes that I
didn't do it for a long time. Pictures like these would have been
invaluable to me when I started this 3 year project 8 years ago.
I also drilled the holes for my wing strut fittings by hand but did it
slightly different than you did. I only drill holes in one of the
fittings then use this as a guide to drill the holes in the spar (or
what ever you are drilling). Then I clamped on the back fitting and use
the newly drilled holes in the spar as a guide (with the brass tubing
protecting the hole) to drill the holes in the back fitting. Note, do
not cut the back fitting to final size until after drilling all the
holes. (learned the hard way)
As an example, here is a shot of me drilling the inner fitting on the
landing gear. ( I guess need to upload some pictures of me drilling the
other wing fittings.)
http://www.westcoastpiet.com/images/Construction%20of%20Wood%20Gear/IMG_
1656.JPG
And here is how I drilled the center fitting for the 3-piece wing.
http://www.westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/IMG_1967.JPG
http://www.westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/IMG_1981.JPG
Chris
--------
Chris
Sacramento, CA
WestCoastPiet.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295129#295129
st" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Schreiber" <lmforge(at)earthlink.net> |
Rick
Your method is the same as I used. I just didn't want to weld up the jig. The copper
tubing and fittings was simple and I had the raw material in stock. I liked
the fact that I could drill the strut fittings as a matched set on the drill
press. I then clamped then in place on the spar and drilled with the jig. Because
of the set up the hole has to come out perfectly aligned.
Rick Schreiber
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Holland
Sent: 4/21/2010 3:58:33 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Drill guide
Or you can use something like my somewhat crud but effective drill guide (see attached).
No surprises where the drill is going to emerge out the other side of
your spar. Can predrill all your strut fittings identically. Notice I welded
on an extra pair of tubes so the same guide will do 1/4" and 3/16".
rick
On Wed, Apr 21, 2010 at 12:55 PM, Catdesigns wrote:
Great pictures Rick! These are the kind of pictures we all need to post more often.
This way people can see how we do things not just how they look when finished.
I used to be so afraid of drilling holes that I didn't do it for a long
time. Pictures like these would have been invaluable to me when I started this
3 year project 8 years ago.
I also drilled the holes for my wing strut fittings by hand but did it slightly
different than you did. I only drill holes in one of the fittings then use this
as a guide to drill the holes in the spar (or what ever you are drilling).
Then I clamped on the back fitting and use the newly drilled holes in the spar
as a guide (with the brass tubing protecting the hole) to drill the holes in
the back fitting. Note, do not cut the back fitting to final size until after
drilling all the holes. (learned the hard way)
As an example, here is a shot of me drilling the inner fitting on the landing gear.
( I guess need to upload some pictures of me drilling the other wing fittings.)
http://www.westcoastpiet.com/images/Construction%20of%20Wood%20Gear/IMG_1656.JPG
And here is how I drilled the center fitting for the 3-piece wing.
http://www.westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/IMG_1967.JPG
http://www.westcoastpiet.com/images/Chris%20Tracy/IMG_1981.JPG
Chris
--------
Chris
Sacramento, CA
WestCoastPiet.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295129#295129
==========
st" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Terry Burtz Model A |
| From: | "pflyboy" <nick_d_av8r(at)msn.com> |
Actually, Terry has a mailing list you can join and get monthly updates. Right
now, I think he's in the pre-casting stage!
The ONLY thing keeping me from building a Piet is the lack of Model A power.
I guess we really have to wait for the final power graphs. It would be nice if
it puts out at least 70 hp at a suitable prop RPM.
If that was the case, couldn't we go direct drive and govern the RPM? The throttle
could be pushed forward to maintain RPM as altitude goes up...?
Nick
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295167#295167
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Terry Burtz Model A |
"Direct drive" with a Model A engine?
Nick, to the best of my knowledge, the Model A Pieters all use direct drive, just
like BP did. I think they run at substantially less than the rpms shown on
the charts on Burt's site, but at a sweet spot on the torque curve. Model A
guys, chime in.
BTW, the Corvair engines get their power for aircraft use by using direct drive
and a very different cam. That cam likewise lowers the rpm where peak torque
and power are produced.
Tim in central TX
-----Original Message-----
>From: pflyboy <nick_d_av8r(at)msn.com>
>Sent: Apr 21, 2010 5:53 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Terry Burtz Model A
>
>
>Actually, Terry has a mailing list you can join and get monthly updates. Right
now, I think he's in the pre-casting stage!
>
>The ONLY thing keeping me from building a Piet is the lack of Model A power.
>
>I guess we really have to wait for the final power graphs. It would be nice if
it puts out at least 70 hp at a suitable prop RPM.
>
>If that was the case, couldn't we go direct drive and govern the RPM? The throttle
could be pushed forward to maintain RPM as altitude goes up...?
>
>Nick
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Terry Burtz Model A |
| From: | "pflyboy" <nick_d_av8r(at)msn.com> |
What I meant was, this new design model A is supposed to put out 158 hp at 5000
RPM. That's way too much RPM, so unless it also puts out an acceptable HP at
a decent prop RPM, say 2200-2400, a gearbox would be necessary to take full advantage
of the power.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295179#295179
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Paule" <dpaule(at)frii.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit covering for tying down outside |
Mike,
Pure Pietenpol all the way. Good for you.
Dave
>
> Actually I've changed out the B-52 computer now for a surplus NASA unit
> from
> the Space Shuttle. It weighs a lot more, and it's actually fairly
> low-tech,
> but it's radiation hardened which could be important on those long trips
> at
> high altitude. Besides, unemployed shuttle engineers are a dime a dozen
> around here, so support won't be much of a problem. Also in keeping with
> the
> Shuttle thing, I've decided to build a reinforced titanium capsule for the
> occupants, which can be ejected at any altitude, attitude, or speed by
> four
> military JATO rockets I have acquired. With the cockpit covering doors
> closed, the capsule should be watertight down to about 80 meters. Which is
> good, because I don't think it's going to float very well like the old
> F-111
> escape capsules (I estimate the weight at between 2,900 and 3,300 lbs). Of
> course I've added an oxygen supply good for 8 days and a full kitchenette
> and pantry... just in case.
>
> Only downside to all my improvements are that the original wire wheels
> deformed badly under the increased load, so I'm installing a set of
> surplus
> 727 main wheel asemblies that I got a good deal on from eBay. I'm also
> adding 6 inches to each wing to make up for the additional weight of the
> wheels.
>
> What could possibly go wrong?
>
> -Mike
>
> Mike Whaley
> MerlinFAC(at)cfl.rr.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Paule" <dpaule(at)frii.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 2:29 PM
> Subject: [piet] Re: Pietenpol-List: Cockpit covering for tying down
> outside
>
>
>>
>> Dang, and I gave away my old B-52 flight manual, too. Sorry! But I think
>> that if you change out the printed circuit card for the -H version, it'll
>> work well enough. Maybe you can get a local high school kid to help with
>> that.
>>
>> Still, I've got to ask... did you install the zero-zero ejection seats or
>> the original ones that needed some altitude to work with? If you used the
>> original ones be careful, because they don't like a rate of descent. Best
> to
>> operate while still in a rate of ascent, if achievable.
>>
>> David Paule
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>> >
>> > I considered this same issue and lucked into an elegant solution... I
>> > found
>> > some surplus bomb bay actuators and hanges at an aviation flea market a
>> > couple years ago, they only cost me a couple thousand bucks for the
> whole
>> > set of 16. A few hundred more to restore the 8 units that I actually
> need,
>> > and they look spiffy. The guy said they were from a B-36 but I think he
>> > either lied or was confused since the serial numbers match a B-58,
>> > which
>> > is
>> > fine for my purposes. I also got a surplus high-pressure hydraulic pump
> to
>> > drive them, it's not that much bigger than the Corvair, so I think I
>> > can
>> > mount that into a very unobtrusive pod under the fuselage. I'm making a
>> > remotely-actuated, bifold, articulated cockpit cover to close over both
>> > the
>> > front and rear 'pits to protect from the weather and such. I also got a
>> > good
>> > deal on some old B-29 wing skins that are slightly curved in just the
>> > right
>> > way, so I'll just cut those to shape for the 'pit covers. I'm also
>> > going
>> > to
>> > drive the wing flop position with the same system. My flight data
> computer
>> > (surplus B-52 part, it's about the size of a microwave oven and only
> about
>> > 85 lbs, but I haven't re-wired it yet) should be able to automatically
>> > calculate the proper flop position several times a second, so it can
>> > double
>> > as both a flap for takeoff and as a spoiler for quick descents. I
>> > figure
>> > that I'll need that capability, since with all the streamlining and
>> > such
>> > it'll be hard to get the Piet to come down otherwise.
>> >
>> > BTW, anyone know anything about reprogramming a B-52 flight data
> computer?
>> >
>> > -Mike
>> >
>> > Mike Whaley
>> > MerlinFAC(at)cfl.rr.com
>> >
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message -----
>> > From: "Ryan Mueller" <rmueller23(at)gmail.com>
>> > To: "Pietenpol List"
>> > Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 12:42 PM
>> > Subject: [piet] Pietenpol-List: Cockpit covering for tying down outside
>> >
>> >
>> >> Here's a question for Piet (or open cockpit in general) fliers:
>> >>
>> >> For those that do not have, or did not always have, custom snap on/in
>> >> cockpit covers for your Piet, how do you cover the cockpits when
>> >> having
>> >> to
>> >> leave the airplane tied down outside overnight or in inclement
>> >> weather?
>> > For
>> >> example, we will be meeting our Piet at Brodhead this year, and we'll
>> >> probably have it there Thursday through Sunday morning. I would
>> >> imagine
> a
>> >> tarp and some light rope would be sufficient, but I thought I would
>> >> ask
>> > and
>> >> see if there was a better/more desirable solution. Thanks,
>> >>
>> >> Ryan
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Terry Burtz Model A |
| From: | "pflyboy" <nick_d_av8r(at)msn.com> |
Okay, okay, so you got me [Laughing] Actually, I once had a Piet fuselage that
was going to be corvair powered, but sold it so I could focus on other things.
There are zillions of other options, but I just LOVE that Model A 8)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295192#295192
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Terry Burtz Model A |
| From: | "Pieti Lowell" <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com> |
Have you heard of the Donovan " D ".with an Al. block 5 mains etc.
Or have you seen a Ford " B ' with inserts, Hi pressure oil,forged balanced crank,
Funk head 6.25:1 Ratio,aluminum rods, swinging a 76X56 Prop at 2250, direct
drive, and not to mention fuel injected,
Any one want a ride in a short Pietenpol with over 80 HP ?
And by the way this Piet has been flying with a 612 Riblitt clipped wing since
2004,
Give me a call or show up at Palmyra Airport, if you dare .
Pieti Lowell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295205#295205
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Terry Burtz Model A |
| From: | "regchief" <kbosley(at)comcast.net> |
I would like a peek at your piet someday Rick. I am the other side of you, down
in Pueblowest
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295207#295207
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Terry Burtz Model A |
Pieti,
You bringin' it to C37 this year? I'll be there.
Jeff
--
Jeff Boatright
"Now let's think about this..."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "coxwelljon" <coxwelljon(at)frontiernet.net> |
Hi all,
I have just gone through having to redo almost all of my fitting mountings as a
previous builder did not do a good job of alignment on the fittings. On almost
all fittings I have had to plug the holes in the wood members with hardwood
dowels epoxied in place and re-drill them. In some cases I had to weld holes
shut in fittings and re-drill them. I know that the FAA frowns on welding holes
shut and re-drilling but I checked with my DAR ahead of time and he gave me
his blessing.
Cliff Dawson's copper tube jig was featured in the January issue of the BPA newsletter.
I built a similar jig (photos attached). I have a metal lathe so I
turned inserts on the lathe and bored them out for 3 different sized drills.
3/16, 1/4, 5/16. The picture shows just one. The one thing I would do different
would be to make a deeper "D" section to allow for getting into hard to get
at locations. Mine worked OK but was a little tight at times. Remember I am
working on an existing structure and not building from scratch so I have to
work around other stuff that is already in place. My process was to drill the
first hole in 2 sides of attachment fittings and then bolt them together and
drill the remainder of the holes through both pieces at the same time on a drill
press. I then clamped the fittings in place on the wood member and used the
jig. I did not drill a pilot hole but with the jig was able to drill the right
size hole the first time. In areas where the fitting was attaching another
metal piece to the wood, like the cabanes, I bolted them to the fitting before
I drilled the wood with the jig. I then clamped the whole assembly in place
and drilled the wood. My project is a GN-1 which has a little more complex
fittings than the original Piet in some areas.
Jon Coxwell
--------
Jon Coxwell
GN-1 Builder
Recycle and preserve the planet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295218#295218
Attachments:
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gary's panel [was: Re: Ryan's Piet] |
| From: | "coxwelljon" <coxwelljon(at)frontiernet.net> |
Gary,
Where in Montana?
Bozeman is where I took my first instruction as a pilot, Kalispell is where I got
my license and helped restore my first airplane, and Billings and eastern Montana
is where I got most of my hours (1700).
100 HP will be good, but I used to fly a 75 HP Aeronca L-3 Defender across the
mountains from Kalispell to My parents ranch in central Montana. Full fuel (12
gal.) and a passenger we would fly to Lincoln MT of unibomber fame, land and
empty a 5 gal. can from the baggage compartment. Then fly over the rest of the
mountains to Townsend MT. where we would refuel everything. That was enough
fuel to fly over the Little Belt mountains to the ranch and return to Townsend
where the process was reversed. Kalispell is about 3500' and the trip to Lincoln
was about at about 6500' and the hop over the mountains to Townsend needed
to be at 8000' to get through the mountain pass. Again a clime to 8000' and
land at the ranch at 6000'. I did this several times when I was younger and
bolder. I would circle until I could get across the mountains and then glide
to the next landing spot.
All this aside. the Montana mountains deserve care and respect but flying in them
can be a terrific exhilarating experience and can make for a good seat of the
pants pilot. The Piet will be well suited for Montana flying.
Jon Coxwell
Now in upstate NY.
--------
Jon Coxwell
GN-1 Builder
Recycle and preserve the planet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295221#295221
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gary's panel [was: Re: Ryan's Piet] |
| From: | gboothe5(at)comcast.net |
Jon,
That's encouraging! I'll be living in the Bitteroot Valley (Hamilton), flying out
of Hamilton or Stevensville.
Gary
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
-----Original Message-----
From: "coxwelljon" <coxwelljon(at)frontiernet.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 21:07:01
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Gary's panel [was: Re: Ryan's Piet]
Gary,
Where in Montana?
Bozeman is where I took my first instruction as a pilot, Kalispell is where I got
my license and helped restore my first airplane, and Billings and eastern Montana
is where I got most of my hours (1700).
100 HP will be good, but I used to fly a 75 HP Aeronca L-3 Defender across the
mountains from Kalispell to My parents ranch in central Montana. Full fuel (12
gal.) and a passenger we would fly to Lincoln MT of unibomber fame, land and
empty a 5 gal. can from the baggage compartment. Then fly over the rest of the
mountains to Townsend MT. where we would refuel everything. That was enough
fuel to fly over the Little Belt mountains to the ranch and return to Townsend
where the process was reversed. Kalispell is about 3500' and the trip to Lincoln
was about at about 6500' and the hop over the mountains to Townsend needed
to be at 8000' to get through the mountain pass. Again a clime to 8000' and
land at the ranch at 6000'. I did this several times when I was younger and
bolder. I would circle until I could get across the mountains and then glide
to the next landing spot.
All this aside. the Montana mountains deserve care and respect but flying in them
can be a terrific exhilarating experience and can make for a good seat of the
pants pilot. The Piet will be well suited for Montana flying.
Jon Coxwell
Now in upstate NY.
--------
Jon Coxwell
GN-1 Builder
Recycle and preserve the planet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295221#295221
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Whaley" <MerlinFAC(at)cfl.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit covering for tying down outside |
> If you need more empty milk jugs, let me know, we go through the stuff
> like, uh, milk.
Oh wow, I had forgotten about that. The floatation solution was right in
front of my nose. It'll be even easier to stuff the wings with 'em, since I
have a fly-by-wire control system and only have to deal with a couple of
shielded 250-conductor cables and quadruple-redundant hydraulic lines going
out to the actuators, instead of those pesky, antiquated steel aileron
cables.
Mike Whaley
MerlinFAC(at)cfl.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit covering for tying down outside |
and don't forget the helium to compensate for the added
weight of the supercondomexplicatorvibratorialejaculator.
I understand that vocal communication is better understood
in the higher frequencies. The helium should help with
that too.
Clif
>
> Oh wow, I had forgotten about that. The floatation solution was right in
> front of my nose. It'll be even easier to stuff the wings with 'em, since
> I
> have a fly-by-wire control system and only have to deal with a couple of
> shielded 250-conductor cables and quadruple-redundant hydraulic lines
> going
> out to the actuators, instead of those pesky, antiquated steel aileron
> cables.
>
> Mike Whaley
> MerlinFAC(at)cfl.rr.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Terry Burtz Model A |
| From: | "Pieti Lowell" <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com> |
Jeff,
I have been to all the Piet fly-ins since the conception, and I do not intend to
miss the next , Of course it all depends on ,will I still be kicking the rudder
bar. My track record is being marred by extenuating circumstances. Would
you like to take an introductory course in added Ford power? She doesn't snap
your head back, with two people but she goes well. Not like my Werner 145 and
there are a good number of more powerful engines on Piets. But the Ford is still
doing it's job since 1989, with no problems, except a bent prop and crank extension.
We ( Blue Piet ) and Lowell are looking forward to seeing all the group this coming
summer.
Pieti Lowell
--
"Now let's think about this..."[/quote]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295241#295241
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AMsafetyC(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | considering a concept |
Having picked up my parts and such and thinking about my engine assembly I
was also thinking about suction /vacuum sources? Pump, venturi or, here
comes the brainstorm idea....... like in automotive, tap the engine vacuum
from the intake side.
Does anyone have any experience in doing that on a Lycoming engine? I would
be curious about anyone's experience in trying that to operate vac
instruments.
Any ideas on how that may impact engine performance with what will appear
to the engine as a vacuum leak on the intake side.
Obviously I am just exploring an idea here and have not committed to
anything on this but was curious about the concept.
Conceivable one could operate all sorts of vacuum controls for airflow,
heat, vents similar to a car using the same control block and parts to open
and close dampers or other devices. rubber hose is much lighter and flexible
than steel cable dampers.
Okay, what say you group?
Thanks
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | considering a concept |
What vacuum device does a Pietenpol need, other than possibly a Turn and
Bank indicator? I have a T&B on mine, powered by a venturi on the belly.
Works great, and has come in handy a couple of times when weather
deteriorated suddenly (like last Sunday, leaving Sun 'n' Fun).
Automobiles used to use vacuum powered windshield wipers. I remember how
frustrating it was when driving in the rain, behind a slow truck. When
you'd get a chance to pass, and floored the accelerator the windshield
wipers would nearly stop, because there wasn't enough vacuum at wide open
throttle to power them, so you were passing a truck with all the spray it
was throwing, and you had no wiper action.
Since airplanes operate at or close to WOT most of the time, I doubt you'd
have enough vacuum to reliably power much. You need 4" to 6" of vacuum for
most instruments.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
AMsafetyC(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 8:49 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: considering a concept
Having picked up my parts and such and thinking about my engine assembly I
was also thinking about suction /vacuum sources? Pump, venturi or, here
comes the brainstorm idea....... like in automotive, tap the engine vacuum
from the intake side.
Does anyone have any experience in doing that on a Lycoming engine? I would
be curious about anyone's experience in trying that to operate vac
instruments.
Any ideas on how that may impact engine performance with what will appear to
the engine as a vacuum leak on the intake side.
Obviously I am just exploring an idea here and have not committed to
anything on this but was curious about the concept.
Conceivable one could operate all sorts of vacuum controls for airflow,
heat, vents similar to a car using the same control block and parts to open
and close dampers or other devices. rubber hose is much lighter and flexible
than steel cable dampers.
Okay, what say you group?
Thanks
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Markle <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: considering a concept |
Well, what I did with my Model A was.....bolt it on and run it...
Hmmmm, seems a lot simpler than all this.....
:-)
-----Original Message-----
From: AMsafetyC(at)aol.com
Sent: Apr 22, 2010 7:49 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: considering a concept
Having picked up my parts and such and thinking about my engine assembly I
was also thinking about suction /vacuum sources? Pump, venturi or, here comes
the brainstorm idea....... like in automotive, tap the engine vacuum from the
intake side.
Does anyone have any experience in doing that on a Lycoming engine? I would
be curious about anyone's experience in trying that to operate vac
instruments.
Any ideas on how that may impact engine performance with what will appear
to the engine as a vacuum leak on the intake side.
Obviously I am just exploring an idea here and have not committed to
anything on this but was curious about the concept.
Conceivable one could operate all sorts of vacuum controls for airflow,
heat, vents similar to a car using the same control block and parts to open and
close dampers or other devices. rubber hose is much lighter and flexible than
steel cable dampers.
Okay, what say you group?
Thanks
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: was considering a concept-- now vacuum power |
Venturi work well and have few downsides, I'd stick with them-- why mess with your
engine-- something else to go wrong. The added drag of an external fixture
on a very draggy Piet is minimal.
As to using vacuum to operate things, there is a thought. Hard plastic airline
hose is strong and light, and easy to run. I used to do fluid power, mostly
air, some hydraulic, never vacuum. What pressure differential do we see-- what
psi? If this is practical, I would be thinking of tiny air valves and cylinders--
Festo or Clippard-- if they still exist. OTOH, this might be better on
a more complicated craft-- I have a PGK-1 in mind. [KISS is an even better rule
on a Piet!!!]
Tim in central TX
-----Original Message-----
From: AMsafetyC(at)aol.com
Sent: Apr 22, 2010 7:49 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: considering a concept
Having picked up my parts and such and thinking about my engine assembly I was
also thinking about suction /vacuum sources? Pump, venturi or, here comes the
brainstorm idea....... like in automotive, tap the engine vacuum from the intake
side.
Does anyone have any experience in doing that on a Lycoming engine? I would be
curious about anyone's experience in trying that to operate vac instruments.
Any ideas on how that may impact engine performance with what will appear to the
engine as a vacuum leak on the intake side.
Obviously I am just exploring an idea here and have not committed to anything on
this but was curious about the concept.
Conceivable one could operate all sorts of vacuum controls for airflow, heat, vents
similar to a car using the same control block and parts to open and close
dampers or other devices. rubber hose is much lighter and flexible than steel
cable dampers.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Terry Burtz Model A |
Hi Lowell,
On 04/21/2010 09:32 PM, Pieti Lowell wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Pieti Lowell"
>
> Have you heard of the Donovan " D ".with an Al. block 5 mains etc.
> Or have you seen a Ford " B ' with inserts, Hi pressure oil,forged balanced crank,
Funk head 6.25:1 Ratio,aluminum rods, swinging a 76X56 Prop at 2250, direct
drive, and not to mention fuel injected,
> Any one want a ride in a short Pietenpol with over 80 HP ?
> And by the way this Piet has been flying with a 612 Riblitt clipped wing since
2004,
> Give me a call or show up at Palmyra Airport, if you dare .
I almost made it up there several days ago. Made it up to Burlington to
see if Rob was around, chatted with Fred Wright a bit and got a tour of
his *amazing* Stearman and L-5 collection. By the time I decided Rob
wasn't around I decided that it was getting late and needed to head
home. I'll make it up there sometime soon, though.
Cheers,
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Paule" <dpaule(at)frii.com> |
| Subject: | Re: considering a concept |
Can't speak for anyone else, but I'd say, KISS.
David Paule
P.S. "Keep It Simple, Stupid," is a well-known engineering rule.
Frequently violated at significant cost and schedule impact, and it has
been learned that there's usually a performance cost as well. Since you
can at best achieve only two of these attributes, Good, Fast and Cheap,
or if you wish to be corporate, Performance, Schedule and Cost, try very
hard not to fail at them all.
-----
Having picked up my parts and such and thinking about my engine
assembly I was also thinking about suction /vacuum sources? Pump,
venturi or, here comes the brainstorm idea....... like in automotive,
tap the engine vacuum from the intake side.
Does anyone have any experience in doing that on a Lycoming engine? I
would be curious about anyone's experience in trying that to operate vac
instruments.
Conceivable one could operate all sorts of vacuum controls for
airflow, heat, vents similar to a car using the same control block and
parts to open and close dampers or other devices. rubber hose is much
lighter and flexible than steel cable dampers.
Okay, what say you group?
Thanks
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Terry Burtz Model A |
Lowell,
Great! Yes, I'd love a ride behind the super Ford. If the crick don't
rise and the planets align, I may even fly my Piet up from Atlanta.
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | santiago morete <moretesantiago(at)yahoo.com.ar> |
| Subject: | Model A carburetor |
Hi all,
-
Has anyone ever used a Tillotson carburetor? I think Larry Williams-had o
ne of those,-is that-correct Larry? How does it compare-to a Zenith m
odel B carb?
I'm looking for a Model B carb but-is difficult to find one-here so I t
hought about the Tillotson as an option.- Thanks
Saludos
-
Santiago=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff wilson <jlwilsonnn(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Model A carburetor |
I had one on a 1968 Harley Sportster. Kick start only. It was good in that
application. It was a magneto system with no battery. Similar to our Piets
in that respect.
Jeff Wilson
N899WT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | V Groah <vgroah(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Model A carburetor |
I run one on my 31 Ford car. Runs good. Will make 75 mph in high overdriv
e with an otherwise tired stock engine. It does have the mixture control a
s do all A carbs.
I do not know how it would compare to the 1932 B carb. I know the manifold
s are larger on the B. Some of the A guys machine out the inside of the A
manifold to make better flow. Vic Groah NX414MV
Date: Thu=2C 22 Apr 2010 11:23:15 -0700
From: moretesantiago(at)yahoo.com.ar
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Model A carburetor
Hi all=2C
Has anyone ever used a Tillotson carburetor? I think Larry Williams had one
of those=2C is that correct Larry? How does it compare to a Zenith model B
carb?
I'm looking for a Model B carb but is difficult to find one here so I thoug
ht about the Tillotson as an option. Thanks
Saludos
Santiago
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search=2C chat and e-mail from your inb
ox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:O
N:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AMsafetyC(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Okay I'll try it this way and see if it makes it on the |
board
(http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1048252084)
_http://www.facebook.com/album.php?id=1048252084&aid 54770_
(http://www.facebook.com/album.php?id=1048252084&aid 54770)
_John Recine_ (http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1048252084) April 22
at 10:23pm
I have been looking at piet pics from all the builders for years and have
not shared any with you. I realized that today and thought I should try to
make up for that so I put together a short chronicle of my build since
February of 2007 when I first began the build process. Naturally that did not
begin immediately since I too ordered the prints, sat on them of a few
months contemplating just how to begin. I had the good fortune to let a friend
both convince and help me get started. He convinced me that I had the skills
and just lacked the confidence to begin. From the time I got the prints I
traveled and visited other builders and got some really good advice, the
same tha I pass on to others making sure I give credit to the person I first
herad it from.
I posted my album on facebook and immediately received some
ratherflattering comments, which I never expected. I though that for what ever
reason
those of you not on facebook may also be interested to see some of my progress
pics.
Actually since I have not made any of the pub;ic in the past and have only
talked about building I figured it was time to lend some crdability to my
claims and share some with those of you who have been more than willing to
share their pictures.
I hope you find them suitable and worthy of your time and enjoy looking at
them as much as I have in building them. You should note that the pictures
of the laminates were take by their skilled craftsman Dennis
Vanderweide,who I am proud and privlidged to call my friend, mentor and convincer
of the
notion that I too can build a Pietenpol. Without whom I would still be
lurking, wondering, wanting and dreaming of building my own Pietenpol while
looking at the prints and never doing anything about it.
Thanks
John
(http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid 54770&id=1048252084&ref=nf)
_My Piet Progress NX895JR_
(http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid 54770&id=1048252084&ref=nf)
ETHEL...ETHEL....Hell you say that dern fool is building an airOplane in
his basement, donch know? Wonder how hes a gonna get it out of there, dern
fool! Calls it a Pieten what? Pietenpol AirCamper, thought you said it was
an airOplane?
By:_John Recine_
(http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1048252084&ref=nf)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Okay I'll try it this way and see if it makes it |
on the board
John,
Thanks for the photos! Loved the comment about building an airplane
'cause the basement already had air in it...
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Okay I'll try it this way and see if it makes it |
on the board
I have not looked at the pictures yet, but I too was thinking about posting
some pictures and short videos on my site of my build as well. To do so wo
uld be all new to me...I am new to owning a web site. ANYHOO, if I decide t
o take a break from building, I may work on that some. I tend not to post m
uch about my progress and post even fewer pictures of it.
-
I'll be checking your out very soon.
-
M.Perez
www.karetakeraero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Okay I'll try it this way and see if it makes it on |
the board
John,
Don't forget www.westcoastpiet.com! You can email Chris Tracy all the pics
you want, catdesigns(at)att.net. I wish everyone would load up his email with
pics, so that he spends more time tending to his web site.it's my only hope
of ever catching up with him.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
18 ribs done
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
AMsafetyC(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 7:52 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Okay I'll try it this way and see if it makes it on
the board
<http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1048252084>
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?id=1048252084
<http://www.facebook.com/album.php?id=1048252084&aid 54770> &aid 54770
<http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1048252084> John Recine April 22 at
10:23pm
I have been looking at piet pics from all the builders for years and have
not shared any with you. I realized that today and thought I should try to
make up for that so I put together a short chronicle of my build since
February of 2007 when I first began the build process. Naturally that did
not begin immediately since I too ordered the prints, sat on them of a few
months contemplating just how to begin. I had the good fortune to let a
friend both convince and help me get started. He convinced me that I had the
skills and just lacked the confidence to begin. From the time I got the
prints I traveled and visited other builders and got some really good
advice, the same tha I pass on to others making sure I give credit to the
person I first herad it from.
I posted my album on facebook and immediately received some ratherflattering
comments, which I never expected. I though that for what ever reason those
of you not on facebook may also be interested to see some of my progress
pics.
Actually since I have not made any of the pub;ic in the past and have only
talked about building I figured it was time to lend some crdability to my
claims and share some with those of you who have been more than willing to
share their pictures.
I hope you find them suitable and worthy of your time and enjoy looking at
them as much as I have in building them. You should note that the pictures
of the laminates were take by their skilled craftsman Dennis Vanderweide,who
I am proud and privlidged to call my friend, mentor and convincer of the
notion that I too can build a Pietenpol. Without whom I would still be
lurking, wondering, wanting and dreaming of building my own Pietenpol while
looking at the prints and never doing anything about it.
Thanks
John
<http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid 54770&id=1048252084&ref=nf>
<http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid 54770&id=1048252084&ref=nf>
<http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid 54770&id=1048252084&ref=nf> My
Piet Progress NX895JR
ETHEL...ETHEL....Hell you say that dern fool is building an airOplane in his
basement, donch know? Wonder how hes a gonna get it out of there, dern fool!
Calls it a Pieten what? Pietenpol AirCamper, thought you said it was an
airOplane?
By: <http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1048252084&ref=nf> John Recine
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Okay I'll try it this way and see if it makes it on |
the boar
| From: | "gtche98" <garywilson213(at)yahoo.com> |
John - Do I need to be your Facebook Friend to be able to see this album? When
I click on your link, I get:
This content is currently unavailable
The page you requested cannot be displayed right now. It may be temporarily unavailable,
the link you clicked on may have expired, or you may not have permission
to view this page.
Would love to see your pictures and progress.
Thanks,
Gary Wilson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295402#295402
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | corvair disassembly |
| From: | "schuerrman" <sdschuerr(at)live.com> |
I got my corvair yesterday and as I was pulling out my spark plug, I think I pulled
some aluminum with it. I won't know until I chase it, but could a machinist
put an insert in if it's bad?
Also, the engine was seized. what a pain! The wrist pins were seized so I had
to take the engine apart in the most unorthodox way. It's apart and it looks
good. I think I cracked almost all of the upper studs. I'm going to pull them
and reinstall them with loctite.
The plans should show up today. I ripped all the capstrip for the ribs and, after
rereading the manual from Bernie, I'm going with spruce. Everyone I've talked
to says the best thing you can do while building is make it as light as possible.
Advice taken.
What kind of landing gear is recommended? It seems that the single axle, wooden
gear makes for a rougher landing, but I think it looks cool.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295404#295404
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Corvair disassembly |
Schuerrman,
Congratulations on a fast start! You may want to direct your Corvair
questions to that site: corvaircraft(at)mylist.net.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
18 ribs done
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of schuerrman
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 8:30 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: corvair disassembly
I got my corvair yesterday and as I was pulling out my spark plug, I think I
pulled some aluminum with it. I won't know until I chase it, but could a
machinist put an insert in if it's bad?
Also, the engine was seized. what a pain! The wrist pins were seized so I
had to take the engine apart in the most unorthodox way. It's apart and it
looks good. I think I cracked almost all of the upper studs. I'm going to
pull them and reinstall them with loctite.
The plans should show up today. I ripped all the capstrip for the ribs and,
after rereading the manual from Bernie, I'm going with spruce. Everyone
I've talked to says the best thing you can do while building is make it as
light as possible. Advice taken.
What kind of landing gear is recommended? It seems that the single axle,
wooden gear makes for a rougher landing, but I think it looks cool.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295404#295404
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | corvair disassembly |
Why would you think the wooden gear with the straight axle would make for
rough landings? Landing gear doesn't make rough landings, pilots do.
I can make greased on landings with my straight axle gear and wire wheels.
I just can't do them consistently, but that's my fault not the
undercarriage's.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of schuerrman
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 11:30 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: corvair disassembly
I got my corvair yesterday and as I was pulling out my spark plug, I think I
pulled some aluminum with it. I won't know until I chase it, but could a
machinist put an insert in if it's bad?
Also, the engine was seized. what a pain! The wrist pins were seized so I
had to take the engine apart in the most unorthodox way. It's apart and it
looks good. I think I cracked almost all of the upper studs. I'm going to
pull them and reinstall them with loctite.
The plans should show up today. I ripped all the capstrip for the ribs and,
after rereading the manual from Bernie, I'm going with spruce. Everyone
I've talked to says the best thing you can do while building is make it as
light as possible. Advice taken.
What kind of landing gear is recommended? It seems that the single axle,
wooden gear makes for a rougher landing, but I think it looks cool.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295404#295404
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: corvair disassembly |
| From: | "dgaldrich" <dgaldrich(at)embarqmail.com> |
Yes the spark plug threads can be helicoiled if there's any probability that they
were damaged in the dis-assembly process, probably best done by a machine shop
if you have no experience doing it.
Call or email William Wynne with any and all questions. He is very helpful and
success oriented. I've found that most of the other Corvair engine sites are
a mediocre supplement to his knowledge and he's willing to share it. In fact,
he insists.
Welcome to the CSCS.
Dave Aldrich
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295411#295411
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: corvair disassembly |
| From: | "Bill Church" <billspiet(at)sympatico.ca> |
That's odd... you think rough landings look cool?
Steve Schuerr wrote:
"What kind of landing gear is recommended? It seems that the single axle, wooden
gear makes for a rougher landing, but I think it looks cool."
Hey, YOU wrote it, not me!
(just pulling your chain)
Seriously, though, like Jack said, the smoothness of the landing is all due to
the abilities of the pilot, not the landing gear. Straight axle gear has bungees
for shock absorption.
BC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295424#295424
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation]" <michael.d.cuy(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | things about the straight axel |
I don't know about Jack Phillips but I have no trouble making consistently smooth
landings
with my straight axel gear now that I got my vision corrected from 20/ 800. ;)
There are several factors that make a straight axel gear a truly excellent landing
gear.
There is no toe-in, out, or camber--the gear tracks true and straight.
You can make the ride stiffer by rewrapping your bungees tighter or you can rewrap
them for
a more cushy ride.
Tire inflation pressure can make a big difference in ride quality but a more firm
wheel gives
less roll resistance on takeoff.
Also with the straight axel you can have a wingwalker do chin ups on the axel when
flying
air show work.
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: things about the straight axel |
Straight axle gear ALWAYS gives a smoother, more precise landing. I
say that because my Piet has the split axle gear NONE of my landings
are smooth and precise.
--
Jeff Boatright
"Now let's think about this..."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Model A carburetor |
>Hello--
The Zenith carburetors were original equipment on Model A's and were
manufactured for Ford by Zenith-Detroit and Holley companies. The
Tillotson was an aftermarket carburetor sold by Western Auto and other
car-parts retailers. The Tillotson seems flimsier and so the Zenith is
preferred by most Model A enthusiasts. The Model B carburetor and
manifold have larger passages so they can flow more gas/air. You can put
a "B" or aftermarket camshaft in an "A" block to handle the additional
flow.
The Zenith is a good carburetor and parts are available today, but
nowadays new replacement parts aren't always right. New jets, for
example, flow all over the map. The main jet must flow 150-160 ml
water/min with 36" of head. Other jets also have fairly specific flow
specs. New jets are all over the map. And the fuel level in the bowl
must be 5/8" below the seam between bowl and top casting of the carburetor
or the carburetor will leak.
--Mac in Oregon
Hi all,
>
> Has anyone ever used a Tillotson carburetor? I think Larry Williamshad
> one of those,is thatcorrect Larry? How does it compareto a Zenith model
> B carb?
> I'm looking for a Model B carb butis difficult to find onehere so I
> thought about the Tillotson as an option. Thanks
> Saludos
>
> Santiago
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JERRY GROGAN" <jerry(at)SKYCLASSIC.NET> |
| Subject: | J3 Cub pattern video |
Just thought this was worth shering.
Here's a 4-minute video on flying a proper pattern in a J3 Cub. It's
produced by a friend of mine from AVWeb:
http://www.avweb.com/avwebflash/exclusivevids/ExclusiveVideo_PatterFlying
_CFIs_SarcasmHumor_202261-1.html
Worth sharing.
Jerry Grogan
Pieten38
Prairie City, IA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: things about the straight axel |
| From: | "Jerry Dotson" <jdotson(at)erec.net> |
Has the straight axle group stayed with the plans??? The dimensions called for
seem real narrow. I am about ready to turn my fuselage upside down and start building.
I had a Luscombe that was a little narrow but handled great. It was around
72". How wide does the Piet wind up being? The drawings say the structure
is 42" I think, add brakes and wheel I would say around 54"?? Taxi slow huh
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
Started building NX510JD July, 2009
Ribs and tailfeathers done
using Lycoming O-235
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295445#295445
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Mike Cuy = Clark Gable? |
I am sure that I'm the last one to know about this, but Mike Cuy is a
movie star!
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=368823193842&subj=1103226011
--
Jeff Boatright
"Now let's think about this..."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Radiator-Model A |
| From: | "pflyboy" <nick_d_av8r(at)msn.com> |
Has anybody here ever mounted a Model A radiator between the landing gear legs
like on so many other 1920s airplanes?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295454#295454
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mike Cuy = Clark Gable? |
| From: | "pflyboy" <nick_d_av8r(at)msn.com> |
Never saw that one before...good shots!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295456#295456
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Mike Cuy = Clark Gable? |
I'm one of those Ivory Tower guys who sits around all day gathering wool.
Actually, I was minding my own bidness eating lunch at my desk when a
Facebook message from Larry Wms popped up, prompting me to click
through, and then when I was there I saw the photo of Mikey aged 2?
getting potty trained, and so I clicked through there and ended up at
Mikey's Facebook page where I saw a link for "Movies with Mike Cuy",
which any more should probably get the viewer arrested, but took a
chance and clicked through and vwah-lah, there was Mr. Cuy in all of
his resplendent splendor, gassing on about NASA and Pietenpols.
Maybe I should cut back on the coffee? =-O
>
>Jeff,
>
>How do you find this stuff?...very nicely done...even brought a little lump
>to my throat, but don't tell anyone. Mike's my Hero for the Day.
>
--
---
Jeffrey H. Boatright, Ph.D.
Associate Professor of Ophthalmology
Emory University School of Medicine
Editor-in-Chief
Molecular Vision
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Abramson" <davea(at)symbolicdisplays.com> |
| Subject: | Radiator-Model A |
THE "MOUNTAIN PIET" WITH THE SUBARU ENGINE HAD IT MOUNTED THAT WAY....
DAVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of pflyboy
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 1:47 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Radiator-Model A
Has anybody here ever mounted a Model A radiator between the landing gear
legs like on so many other 1920s airplanes?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295454#295454
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Owen Davies <owen5819(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Radiator-Model A |
On 4/23/2010 5:26 PM, Dave Abramson wrote:
> THE "MOUNTAIN PIET" WITH THE SUBARU ENGINE HAD IT MOUNTED THAT WAY....
>
Somewhere, I've seen a pic of a Ford installation with a low radiator.
It's been a very long time, but I think there were actually two
radiators, a standard one in front of the lower cowl and a smaller
one--maybe a heater core--between the gear legs.
Owen
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Radiator-Model A |
| From: | "pflyboy" <nick_d_av8r(at)msn.com> |
Oh, sure enough it did-never noticed that before.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295471#295471
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
Clif,
I saw this last week when you posted it, but didn't really read it 'till
just now. I like your lexan idea!
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(18 ribs down.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clif Dawson
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wing flop
For what it's worth, here's my flop.
The trapzoidal areas will be covered with lexan, top
and bottom. Much more visibility in a turn.
The dragwires inside the wing keep the wing panels
themselves square. The strut X bracing keep the
entire wing from twisting back and forth as a unit.
Suppose you had a situation where there was more drag
on the right wing and less on the left. This would try
to push the right wingtip back towards the tail and move
the left foreward thus twisting the wing about the center.
The X bracing works to keep that under control, among
other things.
Clif
I was always taught to respect my elders,
But it keeps getting harder to find one.
>
>
> i am about to figure out how to make mine work now.I have my wings rigged
> and am getting ready to make up the X-brace cables.-I kinda wonder why
> they are necessary with the X-brace rods in the wings to control drag. my
> wing flop section is the same width as the center section. so that leaves
> about 2" gap on each side to hide.I'm guessing I'll end up making a gap
> cover to come back the the rear spar and then something separate that will
> be attached to the flop to close the gap but let it swing up with
> it.Raymond
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim <jimboyer(at)hughes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Okay I'll try it this way and see if it makes |
it on the board
I really agree with you Gary; load up Chris' web site with pictures. In fact you
might want to go to his house and help Chris load them on the web site and perhaps
do some editing of duplicates, etc.
Jim
Jim Boyer
Santa Rosa, CA
Pietenpol on wheels
Tail surfaces done
Wing ribs done
Corvair engine
Apr 23, 2010 07:16:20 AM, pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com wrote:
John,
Dont forget www.westcoastpiet.com! You can email Chris Tracy all the pics you want, catdesigns(at)att.net. I wish everyone would load up his email with pics, so that he spends more time tending to his web siteits my only hope of ever catching up with him.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
18 ribs done
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of AMsafetyC(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 7:52 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Okay I'll try it this way and see if it makes it on the
board
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?id=1048252084&aid 54770
John Recine April 22 at 10:23pm
I have been looking at piet pics from all the builders for years and have not shared
any with you. I realized that today and thought I should try to make up
for that so I put together a short chronicle of my build since February of 2007
when I first began the build process. Naturally that did not begin immediately
since I too ordered the prints, sat on them of a few months contemplating just
how to begin. I had the good fortune to let a friend both convince and help
me get started. He convinced me that I had the skills and just lacked the confidence
to begin. From the time I got the prints I traveled and visited other
builders and got some really good advice, the same tha I pass on to others making
sure I give credit to the person I first herad it from.
I posted my album on facebook and immediately received some ratherflattering comments,
which I never expected. I though that for what ever reason those of you
not on facebook may also be interested to see some of my progress pics.
Actually since I have not made any of the pub;ic in the past and have only talked
about building I figured it was time to lend some crdability to my claims and
share some with those of you who have been more than willing to share their
pictures.
I hope you find them suitable and worthy of your time and enjoy looking at them
as much as I have in building them. You should note that the pictures of the
laminates were take by their skilled craftsman Dennis Vanderweide,who I am proud
and privlidged to call my friend, mentor and convincer of the notion that I
too can build a Pietenpol. Without whom I would still be lurking, wondering,
wanting and dreaming of building my own Pietenpol while looking at the prints
and never doing anything about it.
Thanks
John
My Piet Progress NX895JR
ETHEL...ETHEL....Hell you say that dern fool is building an airOplane in his basement,
donch know? Wonder how hes a gonna get it out of there, dern fool! Calls
it a Pieten what? Pietenpol AirCamper, thought you said it was an airOplane?
By:John Recine
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List>http://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Okay I'll try it this way and see if it makes it on |
the board
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Hi John,
I like it, I like it. Very unique features. Like the gear legs, and the
cool way you drew the turtledeck formers together at the rear. Very cool
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mike Cuy = Clark Gable? |
| From: | "gtche98" <garywilson213(at)yahoo.com> |
Wow. Wonderful video. This should be sticky-ed to the top of this forum. This
captures the essence of why we love the Piet.
Beautiful bird Mike!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295506#295506
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Okay I'll try it this way and see if it makes it on |
the board
| From: | "John Recine" <amsafetyc(at)aol.com> |
Thanks Dan I appreciate your comments.
John
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
-----Original Message-----
From: helspersew(at)aol.com
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 19:39:30
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Okay I'll try it this way an
d see if it makes it on the board
Hi John,
I like it, I like it. Very unique features. Like the
gear legs, and the cool way you drew the turtledeck
formers together at the rear. Very cool
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: corvair disassembly, spark plug holes |
Schuerrman, DO NOT USE HELICOILS!!!! You want to use Time Serts, brand thred repair
inserts. We had a burnt pistons due to a helicoil tang acting like a glow
plug and detonating that cylinder. I have a timesert kit/ tooling that Dad
bought last year here at the hanger, I did one head in about 30 min. They really
are a nice piece of hardware, You can even rent the tooling I believe from
clark's corvair. It consists of a threaded pilot reamer, and spotface tool,
follwed up with an insert instalation tool. We had to pull a head last year due
to a stripped spark plug hole, pain in the but when it was already flying season.
My advise is to find a headshop that is fammilar with corvairs, or just
send them to Falcon Heads in Wisconsin, he always installs timeserts in all
his corvair heads, and is supposed to be the corvair head guru. Hope this helps,
feel free to ask any questions you might have, I may or may not have a good
answer.
Shad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | H RULE <harvey.rule(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: corvair disassembly, spark plug holes |
I have a Franklin 80 hp and I believe that there is one of these things try
ing to get out on one of my number one cylinder plugs.I can actually grab h
old of it with a pair of needle nose plyers and it turns out counter clock
wise.I'm not sure if I need a new one or not.I'm going to try and use the p
lyers to turn it back in again.It only moved a 1/4 of a turn so it's not fa
r to put it back.This letter of yours is very timely for me.I shall also as
k my AME if he has such a tool or knows where I can get one.-=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0A________________________________=0AFrom: shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.co
m>=0ATo: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Fri, April 23, 2010 10:39:33
PM=0ASubject: Re: Pietenpol-List: corvair disassembly, spark plug holes=0A
=0A=0ASchuerrman, DO NOT USE HELICOILS!!!! You want to use Time Serts, bran
d thred repair inserts.- We had a burnt pistons due to a helicoil tang ac
ting like a glow plug and detonating that cylinder.- I have a timesert ki
t/ tooling that Dad bought last year here at the hanger, I did one head in
about 30 min.- They really are a nice piece of hardware, You can even ren
t the tooling I believe from clark's corvair.- It consists of a threaded
pilot reamer, and spotface tool, follwed up with an insert instalation tool
.- We had to pull a head last year due to a stripped spark plug hole, pai
n in the but when it was already flying season.- My advise is to find a h
eadshop that is fammilar with corvairs, or just send them to Falcon Heads i
n Wisconsin, he always installs timeserts in all his corvair heads, and is
supposed to be the corvair head guru.- Hope this helps, feel free to ask
any questions you might have, I may or may not have a good answer.=0A=0ASha
========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: corvair disassembly, spark plug holes |
| From: | "dgaldrich" <dgaldrich(at)embarqmail.com> |
Installing and/or replacing Helicoils in certified engines is a normal procedure
and if PROPERLY done works just fine. If improperly done, the coil can work
either way and cause problems. It's not the fault of the technology but rather
the human factors.
TimeSerts are certainly an option and may even be preferable if there is suitable
tech support (jigs, tooling, etc) for us amateurs.
I agree the best advice is to find someone with credible Corvair knowledge like
Mark Petunias at Falcon Heads or William Wynne and let them point you in the
right direction.
My $.02 worth.
Dave
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295532#295532
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Okay I'll try it this way and see if it makes it on |
the boa
| From: | "Jerry Dotson" <jdotson(at)erec.net> |
John I really like the laminated gear. Even the piece across the bottom! Your struts
look great too. I laminated my gear and all the struts. Took several hours.
I couldn't resist sanding a spot to see what it was going to look like. What
woods did you use? And that angle finder/protracter in pic 4....I need to
visit you.
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
Started building NX510JD July, 2009
Ribs and tailfeathers done
using Lycoming O-235
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295536#295536
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/laminate_647.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Okay I'll try it this way and see if it makes |
it on the boa
| From: | "John Recine" <amsafetyc(at)aol.com> |
Jerry
Thanks for the complements its nice to see that although I am building in a vacuum,
the work is recognized.
You as any other recognized builder are always welcome to visit my shop any time!
And now with my newly installed metal detection equipment, no more missing tools.
As like others of my fellow builders, I have other style points and additions both
installed and planned that I have not revealed. Which I may leave to reveal
at Brodhead in 2 years.
Assuming I can stay on the grand plan if not then in 3 Brodheads!
If anyone is interested I can put you in touch with my lamination furniture builder
guy who laminated and shaped my white ash and black walnut gear and struts.
The skill level and appearance are well beyond my equipment and skill level.
John
------Original Message------
From: Jerry Dotson
Sender: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: Pietenpol builders Board
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Okay I'll try it this way and see if it makes it on
the boa
Sent: Apr 24, 2010 8:41 AM
John I really like the laminated gear. Even the piece across the bottom! Your struts
look great too. I laminated my gear and all the struts. Took several hours.
I couldn't resist sanding a spot to see what it was going to look like. What
woods did you use? And that angle finder/protracter in pic 4....I need to
visit you.
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
Started building NX510JD July, 2009
Ribs and tailfeathers done
using Lycoming O-235
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295536#295536
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/laminate_647.jpg
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: things about the straight axel |
I made mine 6 feet wide.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Dotson
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 3:48 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: things about the straight axel
Has the straight axle group stayed with the plans??? The dimensions called
for seem real narrow. I am about ready to turn my fuselage upside down and
start building. I had a Luscombe that was a little narrow but handled great.
It was around 72". How wide does the Piet wind up being? The drawings say
the structure is 42" I think, add brakes and wheel I would say around 54"??
Taxi slow huh
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
Started building NX510JD July, 2009
Ribs and tailfeathers done
using Lycoming O-235
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295445#295445
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: things about the straight axel |
| From: | "Jerry Dotson" <jdotson(at)erec.net> |
Thanks Jack you just pushed me over the edge. That 42" was the width of the framework....almost
like a glider landing gear. I want to be able to fly in crosswind
and 6 feet tread will sure help about getting a wing up. A friend came over
last week on his Champ and had a good crosswind. He didn't hold his wing down...wind
got under it and he almost got the tip on the grass. He ran over 100
feet all out of shape. Just was hid day. He is a lot more careful now.
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
Started building NX510JD July, 2009
Ribs and tailfeathers done
using Lycoming O-235
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295567#295567
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: corvair disassembly, spark plug holes |
As far as a franklin engine, being a "certified" aircraft engine (may or may not
be due to the experimental kits they used to sell) Helicoils are going to be
a standard fix for a spark plug. If you can find info on the length of helicoils
you need you might easily be able to install Time Serts instead, about as
easily as helicoils. The nice thing about time serts is they should last longer
than any helicoil. They are coated (copper?) steel threaded bushings and
have a good flat gasket surface for your copper plug gaskets(tighter than a knat's
ass streched over a rain barrel). I am not recomending you use them! do
your own research, but I would (and might) use them on my Lycoming. Look up
Time Serts on google, they have a short vidio tutorial and it shows the process
of installing them. One word of warning, I would only do this with the cylinder
removed from the case, so you don't get any metal shards in the engine.
A good motorcycle shop will
probably be familliar with t-serts and have the tooling.
Shad
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: things about the straight axel |
| From: | "carson" <carsonvella(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Hi Jerry
I made my axle 6 feet the width between the two ash blocks is 45 inch's on mine
I just went by the plans and all the info on Chris's site
It looks good not sure how it will go down the rwy.
Carson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295591#295591
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| From: | "gcardinal" <gcardinal(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: things about the straight axel |
One more consideration with the straight axle gear is "ramp appeal". It will
set the airplane apart from EVERYTHING else on the field.
Greg Cardinal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation]"
Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 12:16 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: things about the straight axel
> Aerospace Corporation]"
>
> I don't know about Jack Phillips but I have no trouble making consistently
> smooth landings
> with my straight axel gear now that I got my vision corrected from 20/
> 800. ;)
>
> There are several factors that make a straight axel gear a truly excellent
> landing gear.
> There is no toe-in, out, or camber--the gear tracks true and straight.
>
> You can make the ride stiffer by rewrapping your bungees tighter or you
> can rewrap them for
> a more cushy ride.
>
> Tire inflation pressure can make a big difference in ride quality but a
> more firm wheel gives
> less roll resistance on takeoff.
>
> Also with the straight axel you can have a wingwalker do chin ups on the
> axel when flying
> air show work.
>
> Mike C.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Markle <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | How much better can it get???? |
Yesterday we drive into town for the first time in forever. As much as I travel,
I rarely drive to town (Tulsa). Julia and I and two of my sons (my oldest
and youngest) are meeting my uncle at his son's hangar to clean some stuff out
of it before they sell his plane. I can tell you seeing a nice plane (this is
an older Mooney) sitting without it's pilot/owner is a very sad thing indeed.
(My cousin died recently while he and his friend were practicing touch/go's).
So this ain't gonna be a happy way to spend an afternoon.
We got there before my uncle arrives and are watching planes land in a beautiful,
windy partly cloudy sky. A couple T-6's and some other round engine planes
landed from the Tulsa Air Show (which I sadly did not get to go to, although
I had tickets in my pocket!).
Then in the distance we see this yellow "Cub" on left base. He turns to final
and I see a "different" looking tail shape and...hey wait...that's no Cub! Looks
like an Air Camper tail shape! And I realize this little yellow plane has
some writing on the side. Just like Steve Ruse' Air Camper! NO WAY! So I go
running over to some guys watching the landing and ask if they have a radio.
They say yes, so I ask if I can borrow it to call "that plane that just landed".
I find out they just came from a little town about 45 miles from Tulsa where
THEY had watched (a couple hours earlier) THAT yellow plane following a steam
engine train along it's path (they mention that the plane couldn't quite
keep up with the train). They are train and airplane enthusiasts and drove down
to see the special event train. They asked if "my friend" didn't know where
to meet me and I said he didn't EVEN know I was there! They just looked at
me like I was nuts (I've seen the look before.... :-
)
Anyway, I run out to the taxiway and wave down the plane (running onto an active
runway/taxi way is a WEIRD feeling!)...ran up to the pilot and he looks out
and says "JIM???". HA! A VERY surreal moment!
(Sorry for dragging this out.....)
The wonderful part: What started off being a not so fun afternoon turns into Julia
seeing her first actual flying Air Camper, me getting to FINALLY meet Steve
face to face (after about 6 years of TRYING to get together)...well, the whole
thing was just incredible....we shook hands, hugged, laughed...Steve landing
at THAT airport at THAT moment lifted our spirits during a not so happy time.
This note probably doesn't capture the magic of what happened yesterday but I can
tell you that something special DID happen. I doubt that Steve realizes how
important that landing was. I didn't until this morning when we were talking
about it.
Back during the "Save Markle's Piet" event I said more than once (from my heart)
that I'm one of the luckiest people around. And I am that....
And I'm saying it again.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: corvair disassembly, spark plug holes |
| From: | "tkreiner" <tkreiner(at)gmail.com> |
Properly installed is the key phrase here...
When solid inserts fail (regardless of their material), as they sometimes do, they
tend to weld or bond themselves to the threads on the spark plug. Upon plug
removal, the failure mode results in torn threads in the head, along with
many issues - and expenses - for the mechanic or owner repairing the subsequent
damage. Consider the issues involved: teardown, welding, machine work to rethread,
and reassembly.
OUCH! Not a good thing.
In my experience with aircooled engines, I've encountered just this, and it was
both costly and time consuming.
In the case of a traditional cylinder-head setup found on an aircraft engine, only
one jug needs to be removed to correct this type of problem. In contrast
the corvair has a three spigot "log" head, requiring the full bank - or at least
the head on that bank - to be removed and repaired.
FWIW, I've repaired using both inserts & helical wire inserts, and there's no way
I'd ever do another critical repair using an solid insert. (Note the mention
of helical wire... theres an alternate to the Helicoil branded inserts, made
by Kato, and their insert and insert methods are superior to Helicoil brand.)
If you don't know how to properly insert a helical type insert or have the tools
needed to insert one, take it to a competent mechanic who will do it for you.
Just my 0.02.
--------
Tom Kreiner
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295628#295628
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Metcalfe <fmetcalf(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Pietenpol award winner at Sun-N-Fun |
Congratulations to Harold Johnson for bringing home the Homebuilt Best Auto
Engine award at =0A2010 Sun-N- Fun. -----------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | model B carb for ford |
Santiago,
I have a model B carb modified for the Piet by Ken Perkins which I am not going
to use. It is still in the bag, and is for sale.
Douwe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How much better can it get???? |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
That is awesome Jim! Sorry that you didn't make the air show, but glad that you
got to meet Steve and see his Piet around... and what a crazy series of coincidence
with the different groups of people. Neat-o!
--------
Mark - working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295643#295643
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | airlion <airlion(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol award winner at Sun-N-Fun |
Way to go Harold. Ya'll sure do good work. I will park mine on the lower 40 anytime
we have a get together. Gardiner
________________________________
From: Frank Metcalfe <fmetcalf(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sun, April 25, 2010 12:05:26 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Pietenpol award winner at Sun-N-Fun
Congratulations to Harold Johnson for bringing home the Homebuilt Best Auto Engine
award at
2010 Sun-N- Fun.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | santiago morete <moretesantiago(at)yahoo.com.ar> |
| Subject: | Model A carburetor |
Thank you all for the answers
Saludos
-
Santiago=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TGSTONE236(at)aol.com |
I didn't take a full picture of either Piet. I was busy looking at things
that could improve mine. They were equally excellent planes. I would hate to
have to judge the best.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol award winner at Sun-N-Fun |
| From: | "dwilson" <marwilson(at)charter.net> |
WOW ! I believe the Big Piets are all steel tube and the wing span is longer than
original. Does anyone know the empty weight of a BIG PIET? Just wondering
how well the corvair performs. Any one have specifics about the performance?
Dan Wilson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295703#295703
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Ruse" <steve(at)wotelectronics.com> |
| Subject: | Chasing trains...Union Pacific 844 steam locomotive pictures |
As Jim said earlier, I spent Saturday chasing the steam locomotive 844
as it passed through NE Oklahoma. That was REALLY fun. Spent about 8
hours flying my Air Camper in one day...just to see this train. Once I
found it I tailed it for about 1.5 hours...circling and criss-crossing
overhead, taking pictures and video and waving at the engineer and other
people on the train. What a hoot.
A few pictures are at the link below...I'll try to post some video
later.
http://www.wotelectronics.com/flying/UP844/
Steve Ruse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Ruse" <steve(at)wotelectronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How much better can it get???? |
It sure was good to finally meet you in person Jim! I just wish I could've
seen your airplane...we'll have to do that soon. What a funny surprise. I
couldn't understand why these four guys were waving their arms wildly at my
while I taxied in...thought maybe my tail was on fire, or maybe I had
knocked the tail off with my landing. I decided to go to KRVS about half an
hour before I got there...and about 15 minutes before that I had been
googling you, trying to find your address so I could buzz your house, but
decided I didn't have time as I had a 3+hr flight home with a 30mph
headwind. How odd that I ran into you as a result of my decision not to go
see you.
Very sorry to hear about your cousin also...sounds like an odd accident, I
hope you and the rest of his family are doing OK.
Sure was good to see you Jim...I'd love to come see your plane soon, maybe
this spring. We should get together more than once every six years.
As a downside, my pocketwatch and thermometer somehow went missing sometime
on Saturday...if anybody runs across those, please let me know.
Steve Ruse
Norman, OK
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Markle" <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 8:47 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: How much better can it get????
> Yesterday we drive into town for the first time in forever. As much as I
> travel, I rarely drive to town (Tulsa). Julia and I and two of my sons
> (my oldest and youngest) are meeting my uncle at his son's hangar to clean
> some stuff out of it before they sell his plane. I can tell you seeing a
> nice plane (this is an older Mooney) sitting without it's pilot/owner is a
> very sad thing indeed. (My cousin died recently while he and his friend
> were practicing touch/go's). So this ain't gonna be a happy way to spend
> an afternoon.
>
> We got there before my uncle arrives and are watching planes land in a
> beautiful, windy partly cloudy sky. A couple T-6's and some other round
> engine planes landed from the Tulsa Air Show (which I sadly did not get to
> go to, although I had tickets in my pocket!).
>
> Then in the distance we see this yellow "Cub" on left base. He turns to
> final and I see a "different" looking tail shape and...hey wait...that's
> no Cub! Looks like an Air Camper tail shape! And I realize this little
> yellow plane has some writing on the side. Just like Steve Ruse' Air
> Camper! NO WAY! So I go running over to some guys watching the landing
> and ask if they have a radio. They say yes, so I ask if I can borrow it
> to call "that plane that just landed". I find out they just came from a
> little town about 45 miles from Tulsa where THEY had watched (a couple
> hours earlier) THAT yellow plane following a steam engine train along it's
> path (they mention that the plane couldn't quite keep up with the train).
> They are train and airplane enthusiasts and drove down to see the special
> event train. They asked if "my friend" didn't know where to meet me and I
> said he didn't EVEN know I was there! They just looked at me like I was
> nuts (I've seen the look before.... :-
> )
>
> Anyway, I run out to the taxiway and wave down the plane (running onto an
> active runway/taxi way is a WEIRD feeling!)...ran up to the pilot and he
> looks out and says "JIM???". HA! A VERY surreal moment!
>
> (Sorry for dragging this out.....)
>
> The wonderful part: What started off being a not so fun afternoon turns
> into Julia seeing her first actual flying Air Camper, me getting to
> FINALLY meet Steve face to face (after about 6 years of TRYING to get
> together)...well, the whole thing was just incredible....we shook hands,
> hugged, laughed...Steve landing at THAT airport at THAT moment lifted our
> spirits during a not so happy time.
>
> This note probably doesn't capture the magic of what happened yesterday
> but I can tell you that something special DID happen. I doubt that Steve
> realizes how important that landing was. I didn't until this morning when
> we were talking about it.
>
> Back during the "Save Markle's Piet" event I said more than once (from my
> heart) that I'm one of the luckiest people around. And I am that....
>
> And I'm saying it again.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Chasing trains...Union Pacific 844 steam locomotive |
pictures
Thanks Steve. My Grandad was an engineer on the CPR
Silk Trains. The silk worm pupae were collected in China,
delivered by ship to Victoria, loaded in boxcars, ferried to
the mainland then rushed 2500 miles across to Toronto.
They had to get them there before they opened up.
These trains had priority over everything else.
Most of the engines were similiar to yours, 4-6-4's but one
was 6-8-8-6. If you can imagine an engine twice as long!
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Ruse
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 8:47 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Chasing trains...Union Pacific 844 steam
locomotive pictures
As Jim said earlier, I spent Saturday chasing the steam locomotive 844
as it passed through NE Oklahoma. That was REALLY fun. Spent about 8
hours flying my Air Camper in one day...just to see this train. Once I
found it I tailed it for about 1.5 hours...circling and criss-crossing
overhead, taking pictures and video and waving at the engineer and other
people on the train. What a hoot.
A few pictures are at the link below...I'll try to post some video
later.
http://www.wotelectronics.com/flying/UP844/
Steve Ruse
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
04/24/10 23:31:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Chasing trains...Union Pacific 844 steam locomotive |
pictures
Wow! How cool is that! A 4-8-4 "Northern" Locomotive. I've never seen
one of those run (seen them in museums). We've got a small railroad museum
(http://www.nhvry.org/equipment.htm) near my house that runs a small steam
switch engine (0-4-0T) and I enjoy flying over it when they run it, but they
have nothing of this size.
Thanks for the pictures.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Ruse
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 11:47 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Chasing trains...Union Pacific 844 steam locomotive
pictures
As Jim said earlier, I spent Saturday chasing the steam locomotive 844 as it
passed through NE Oklahoma. That was REALLY fun. Spent about 8 hours
flying my Air Camper in one day...just to see this train. Once I found it I
tailed it for about 1.5 hours...circling and criss-crossing overhead, taking
pictures and video and waving at the engineer and other people on the train.
What a hoot.
A few pictures are at the link below...I'll try to post some video later.
http://www.wotelectronics.com/flying/UP844/
Steve Ruse
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Chasing trains...Union Pacific 844 steam locomotive |
pictures
Big a-- , old school steam locomotives are awesome! I'll be building/modify
ing one of those next. (just kidding.)- Nice aerial shots Steve.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: things about the straight axel |
| From: | "womenfly2" <keriannprice(at)hotmail.com> |
I made my gear from the Glider and Flying Manual with Big wheels, true to drawings.
I will say that the gear will swing front and back between the wood struts as each
wheel encounters bumps (resistance) on a grass strip turning her from side
to side. So tap dancing on the rudder was a workout. I only felt this during
takeoff and not so much during landing. Big wheel do act a forward fins in the
air
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295744#295744
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/nov18_08_154.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: things about the straight axel |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
Wow, that is one beautiful Piet, great color scheme.
rick
On Mon, Apr 26, 2010 at 8:11 AM, womenfly2 wrote:
> keriannprice(at)hotmail.com>
>
> I made my gear from the Glider and Flying Manual with Big wheels, true to
> drawings.
>
> I will say that the gear will swing front and back between the wood struts
> as each wheel encounters bumps (resistance) on a grass strip turning her
> from side to side. So tap dancing on the rudder was a workout. I only felt
> this during takeoff and not so much during landing. Big wheel do act a
> forward fins in the air
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295744#295744
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/nov18_08_154.jpg
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Skip Gadd" <skipgadd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: things about the straight axe now fuselage |
Keriann,
Very antique looking Piet.
Did you also use the Flying and glider Manual fuselage?
Skip
> [Original Message]
> From: womenfly2 <keriannprice(at)hotmail.com>
> I made my gear from the Glider and Flying Manual with Big wheels, true to
drawings.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douwe Blumberg" <douweblumberg(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | anybody near Rochester MN |
I'm taking Marci up to the Mayo Clinic next week and wondered if anybody is
close in to Rochester MN. I'd love to see a nice piet or project while
we're there.
Douwe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry Rhoads" <prhoads61(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: anybody near Rochester MN |
Vi Kapler lives there. He has a brand new Ford powered Piet. He's not a
computer guy, but his number is 507-288-3322.
Perry Rhoads
N12939
----- Original Message -----
From: "Douwe Blumberg" <douweblumberg(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 2:24 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: anybody near Rochester MN
>
>
> I'm taking Marci up to the Mayo Clinic next week and wondered if anybody
> is
> close in to Rochester MN. I'd love to see a nice piet or project while
> we're there.
>
> Douwe
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Johnson" <ddjohn(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | anybody near Rochester MN |
Douwe
We have one at Stanton Mn .About 45 minutes NW of Rochester.
Let me know when you are going to be in Rochester
Dale
> [Original Message]
> From: Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg(at)earthlink.net>
> To: pietenpolgroup
> Date: 4/26/2010 4:07:07 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: anybody near Rochester MN
>
>
> I'm taking Marci up to the Mayo Clinic next week and wondered if anybody
is
> close in to Rochester MN. I'd love to see a nice piet or project while
> we're there.
>
> Douwe
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: things about the straight axel |
Kerri Ann,
No doubt, you are aware that most builders now engineer some sort of slide
bar to keep the axle from swinging back and forth. Would you say that is
optional?
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
18 ribs done
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of womenfly2
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 7:11 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: things about the straight axel
I made my gear from the Glider and Flying Manual with Big wheels, true to
drawings.
I will say that the gear will swing front and back between the wood struts
as each wheel encounters bumps (resistance) on a grass strip turning her
from side to side. So tap dancing on the rudder was a workout. I only felt
this during takeoff and not so much during landing. Big wheel do act a
forward fins in the air
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295744#295744
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/nov18_08_154.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
I remember when I was about 4 yrs old I rode the Chessie System 614 (another 4-8-4
loc) from Columbus to marion Ohio. Dad works for the railroad (Now CSX)
and got a photo of me and my sister standing in the yard right next to the drivers.
You do get cinders in your eyes when you stick your head out the window
behind thos big ol steam engines, just like Boxcar Willie told me on dad's 8
track)
Sorry, it's not piet related but it jogged one of my boyhood memories.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Chasing trains...Union Pacific 844 steam locomotive |
pictures
Here in Canada for G airspace the rule is "500 ft from any person, place or
thing.
Yours is most likely similiar. On the other hand we may be dealing with
formation
rules. :-)
Clif
Don't know the legality of flying next to a train, but I'm guessing it
ain't.
>
> It still remains one of my fantasies.
>
> Glad you got to live it.
>
> Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Chasing trains...Union Pacific 844 steam locomotive |
pictures
Ooooh! A wooden 4-8-4! When do we start? :-)
Clif
Big a-- , old school steam locomotives are awesome! I'll be
building/modifying one of those next. (just kidding.) Nice aerial shots
Steve.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
04/26/10 11:27:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Chasing trains...Union Pacific 844 steam locomotive |
pictures
There are no specific laws against flying next to a train, as long as it is
not over a "congested area". The only requirement is that you be high
enough that in the event of engine failure, you can put the airplane down
without endangering anyone on the ground.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clif Dawson
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 10:08 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Chasing trains...Union Pacific 844 steam
locomotive pictures
Here in Canada for G airspace the rule is "500 ft from any person, place or
thing.
Yours is most likely similiar. On the other hand we may be dealing with
formation
rules. :-)
Clif
Don't know the legality of flying next to a train, but I'm guessing it
ain't.
>
> It still remains one of my fantasies.
>
> Glad you got to live it.
>
> Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jorge lizarraga <flightwood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: things about the straight axel exelent; |
that is a great idea mike cuy due same about you i hope ypu proyect is near
to finished I like to see one day some pictured and , is nise have leadyes
in pietenpol wee ned more is another point of view. i have some problems w
hir my landin gear metal parts and realy stare think change from 1929 disai
ng seyou nex jorge from hanford.
--- On Mon, 4/26/10, womenfly2 wrote:
From: womenfly2 <keriannprice(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: things about the straight axel
Date: Monday, April 26, 2010, 7:11 AM
>
I made my gear from the Glider and Flying Manual with Big wheels, true to d
rawings.
I will say that the gear will swing front and back between the wood struts
as each wheel encounters bumps (resistance) on a grass strip turning her fr
om side to side. So tap dancing on the rudder was a workout. I only felt th
is during takeoff and not so much during landing. Big wheel do act a forwar
d fins in the air
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295744#295744
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/nov18_08_154.jpg
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | greg menoche <gnwac(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How much better can it get???? |
What a GREAT stroy. Gave my chills. Greg Menoche DE
-----Original Message-----
>From: Jim Markle <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com>
>Sent: Apr 25, 2010 9:47 AM
>To: Pietenpol List
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: How much better can it get????
>
>Yesterday we drive into town for the first time in forever. As much as I travel,
I rarely drive to town (Tulsa). Julia and I and two of my sons (my oldest
and youngest) are meeting my uncle at his son's hangar to clean some stuff out
of it before they sell his plane. I can tell you seeing a nice plane (this
is an older Mooney) sitting without it's pilot/owner is a very sad thing indeed.
(My cousin died recently while he and his friend were practicing touch/go's).
So this ain't gonna be a happy way to spend an afternoon.
>
>We got there before my uncle arrives and are watching planes land in a beautiful,
windy partly cloudy sky. A couple T-6's and some other round engine planes
landed from the Tulsa Air Show (which I sadly did not get to go to, although
I had tickets in my pocket!).
>
>Then in the distance we see this yellow "Cub" on left base. He turns to final
and I see a "different" looking tail shape and...hey wait...that's no Cub! Looks
like an Air Camper tail shape! And I realize this little yellow plane has
some writing on the side. Just like Steve Ruse' Air Camper! NO WAY! So I
go running over to some guys watching the landing and ask if they have a radio.
They say yes, so I ask if I can borrow it to call "that plane that just landed".
I find out they just came from a little town about 45 miles from Tulsa
where THEY had watched (a couple hours earlier) THAT yellow plane following a
steam engine train along it's path (they mention that the plane couldn't quite
keep up with the train). They are train and airplane enthusiasts and drove down
to see the special event train. They asked if "my friend" didn't know where
to meet me and I said he didn't EVEN know I was there! They just looked at
me like I was nuts (I've seen the look before.... :
-
> )
>
>Anyway, I run out to the taxiway and wave down the plane (running onto an active
runway/taxi way is a WEIRD feeling!)...ran up to the pilot and he looks out
and says "JIM???". HA! A VERY surreal moment!
>
>(Sorry for dragging this out.....)
>
>The wonderful part: What started off being a not so fun afternoon turns into
Julia seeing her first actual flying Air Camper, me getting to FINALLY meet Steve
face to face (after about 6 years of TRYING to get together)...well, the whole
thing was just incredible....we shook hands, hugged, laughed...Steve landing
at THAT airport at THAT moment lifted our spirits during a not so happy time.
>
>This note probably doesn't capture the magic of what happened yesterday but I
can tell you that something special DID happen. I doubt that Steve realizes how
important that landing was. I didn't until this morning when we were talking
about it.
>
>Back during the "Save Markle's Piet" event I said more than once (from my heart)
that I'm one of the luckiest people around. And I am that....
>
>And I'm saying it again.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skellytown flyer" <skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com> |
Well I need to do quite a few Nicopress crimps yet on 1/8" cable on my project.
I have used one of the slow bolt together tools for a long time but I have messed
up on to many nico's with it.I'm ready to try something different.I have
read in the past that some folks were having decent results with a tool that probably
came from harbor freight or some such store. I'm not crazy about buying
another cheap Chinese made tool but if it will get me through this project I
guess I need to.can anyone tell me if they have used one with good results? there
is a store in Amarillo about 55 miles from here. Raymond
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295916#295916
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Skip Gadd" <skipgadd(at)earthlink.net> |
Raymond, I got my bolt cutter type Nicopress tool at Home Depot or Lowes
for about $20. Done probably a couple dozen 3/32 crimps so far and all
check out good with the go no-go sleeve gauge.
Skip
> [Original Message]
> From: skellytown flyer <skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com>
> To:
> Date: 4/27/2010 4:14:17 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: cable crimper
>
>
> Well I need to do quite a few Nicopress crimps yet on 1/8" cable on my
project. I have used one of the slow bolt together tools for a long time
but I have messed up on to many nico's with it.I'm ready to try something
different.I have read in the past that some folks were having decent
results with a tool that probably came from harbor freight or some such
store. I'm not crazy about buying another cheap Chinese made tool but if it
will get me through this project I guess I need to.can anyone tell me if
they have used one with good results? there is a store in Amarillo about 55
miles from here. Raymond
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cable crimper |
I was able to borrow a real nicopress crimper from my EAA chapter. It
had a cable cutter attached, which really comes in handy. If you have
any other homebuilders in your area, you might be able to borrow one...
Ben Charvet
On 4/27/2010 4:43 PM, Skip Gadd wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Skip Gadd"
>
> Raymond, I got my bolt cutter type Nicopress tool at Home Depot or Lowes
> for about $20. Done probably a couple dozen 3/32 crimps so far and all
> check out good with the go no-go sleeve gauge.
> Skip
>
>
>
>> [Original Message]
>> From: skellytown flyer<skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com>
>> To:
>> Date: 4/27/2010 4:14:17 PM
>> Subject: Pietenpol-List: cable crimper
>>
>> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "skellytown flyer"
>>
>
>
>> Well I need to do quite a few Nicopress crimps yet on 1/8" cable on my
>>
> project. I have used one of the slow bolt together tools for a long time
> but I have messed up on to many nico's with it.I'm ready to try something
> different.I have read in the past that some folks were having decent
> results with a tool that probably came from harbor freight or some such
> store. I'm not crazy about buying another cheap Chinese made tool but if it
> will get me through this project I guess I need to.can anyone tell me if
> they have used one with good results? there is a store in Amarillo about 55
> miles from here. Raymond
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cable crimper |
| From: | "skellytown flyer" <skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com> |
Thanks guys-I just finished calling the local hardware stores and nobody had one
in stock.so I called my aircraft mechanic friend and he said I could borrow
his. just hated to impose since he makes his living with his tools,but he said
i could use it tomorrow.he hardly ever has a call to crimp a nicopress. Raymond
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295935#295935
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Rambo" <generambo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Chasing trains...Union Pacific 844 steam locomotive |
pictures
of course except for the 500ft from persons or property . . .
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack Phillips<mailto:pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 10:19 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Chasing trains...Union Pacific 844 steam
locomotive pictures
>
There are no specific laws against flying next to a train, as long as
it is
not over a "congested area". The only requirement is that you be high
enough that in the event of engine failure, you can put the airplane
down
without endangering anyone on the ground.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clif
Dawson
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 10:08 PM
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Chasing trains...Union Pacific 844 steam
locomotive pictures
>
Here in Canada for G airspace the rule is "500 ft from any person,
place or
thing.
Yours is most likely similiar. On the other hand we may be dealing
with
formation
rules. :-)
Clif
Don't know the legality of flying next to a train, but I'm guessing it
ain't.
>
> It still remains one of my fantasies.
>
> Glad you got to live it.
>
> Jim
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
m/Navigator?Pietenpol-List>
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
on>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Chasing trains...Union Pacific 844 steam locomotive |
pictures
| From: | Andrew M Eldredge <andrew.eldredge(at)gmail.com> |
Just happened to read that reg last night.
=A7 91.119c "the aircraft may not be operated closer than 500 feet to any
person, vessel, vehicle, or structure."
Those pictures are fantastic. It looks like they were all taken from at
least 700 feet away. It looks like the guys in the train were having as
much of a ball as you, Steve.
On Tue, Apr 27, 2010 at 6:41 PM, Gene Rambo wrote:
> of course except for the 500ft from persons or property . . .
>
> Gene
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Jack Phillips
> *To:* pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> *Sent:* Monday, April 26, 2010 10:19 PM
> *Subject:* RE: Pietenpol-List: Chasing trains...Union Pacific 844 steam
> locomotive pictures
>
> pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
>
> There are no specific laws against flying next to a train, as long as it
is
> not over a "congested area". The only requirement is that you be high
> enough that in the event of engine failure, you can put the airplane down
> without endangering anyone on the ground.
>
> Jack Phillips
> NX899JP
> Raleigh, NC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clif
> Dawson
> Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 10:08 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Chasing trains...Union Pacific 844 steam
> locomotive pictures
>
>
> Here in Canada for G airspace the rule is "500 ft from any person, place
or
> thing.
> Yours is most likely similiar. On the other hand we may be dealing with
> formation
> rules. :-)
>
> Clif
>
>
> Don't know the legality of flying next to a train, but I'm guessing it
> ain't.
> >
> > It still remains one of my fantasies.
> >
> > Glad you got to live it.
> >
> > ======================
> Features Chat, http://www.matnbsp; via the Web
> title=http://forums.matronics.com/
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> _p; generous bsp; title
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution href="
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution">
> http://www.matronics.com/c===============
=
>
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
Andrew M. Eldredge
Sahuarita, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: cable crimper |
I bought one of those. Mine is adjustable with two allen
screws on the hinge assembly.
This is how I use it.
Clif
harbor freight or some such store. I'm not crazy about buying another cheap
Chinese made tool but if it will get me through this project I guess I need
to.can anyone tell me if they have used one with good results? there is a
store in Amarillo about 55 miles from here. Raymond
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Ash <ashcan(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cable crimper |
Funny you should mention this now. I've got a need for several cables (on a sailboat)
and I was shocked at the cost of pre-made cables. I bought one of the tools
last year from either Lowe's or Home Deopt (don't remember which). Home Depot
has them (my local one did last weekend when I looked out of curiousity):
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xh3/R-100243794/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
The odd thing is, the folks at the store don't know they have them. There's so
little call for these things their stock is under a pile of dust. This is one
time where you're better off with the clueless lady behind the customer service
counter, because she doesn't presume she knows their own inventory and is more
willing to do a computer search. Have them look for 'swaging' and it pops right
up. Or I found them on the bottom shelf right under the bulk cables and chains.
The first cable end I did last year (for my boat trailer winch cable) was pretty
butchered-up, but useable. One of the items on my list of stuff to do at Sun
n Fun this year was to spend a few minutes (about 10, it turned out) with the
guy in the workshops who demonstrates cable swaging and find out what I was doing
wrong. My thanks to him. (Note here: He suggested clamping the jaw of the
tool in a vise. My intentions (haven't done it yet) are to put the jaw in the
vise, but with the end of the lower handle resting on the bench for leverage.
He also had some handouts which were mostly reprints from AC43-13 on cable swaging;
I guess I never paid attention to that section before. Useful stuff.
Also note, the aluminum ferrules from the hardware stores are pretty awful, and
they probably cost more than the good copper ones if you know where to get them.
Airparts (the ad with the old lady standing in a coil of aluminum) and Freeman
both had them at SNF, and I bought a pile of ferrules and thimbles (Why is
it my luggage always seems to contain a love letter from the TSA in it when
I get home?) from their bulk bins.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
>From: Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca>
>Sent: Apr 28, 2010 2:22 AM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: cable crimper
>
>I bought one of those. Mine is adjustable with two allen
>screws on the hinge assembly.
>This is how I use it.
>
>Clif
>
>
>harbor freight or some such store. I'm not crazy about buying another cheap
>Chinese made tool but if it will get me through this project I guess I need
>to.can anyone tell me if they have used one with good results? there is a
>store in Amarillo about 55 miles from here. Raymond
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Low level flying |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
=C2=A7 91.119c "the aircraft may not be operated closer than 500 feet to
any person, vessel, vehicle, or structure."
Does this mean I can swoop down and do low-level tree-top stuff, as long
as there is no person, vessel, or structure? One year I got a great ride
like that from a Bi-plane guy. What a thrill! In and out of the trees.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Low level flying |
The FAA regulations are intentionally non-specific so that one can
interpret them and remain within "The Letter of the Law."
So, yes.
:-)
dan
On 04/28/2010 06:45 AM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> 91.119c "the aircraft may not be operated closer than 500 feet to
> any person, vessel, vehicle, or structure."
>
> Does this mean I can swoop down and do low-level tree-top stuff, as long
> as there is no person, vessel, or structure? One year I got a great ride
> like that from a Bi-plane guy. What a thrill! In and out of the trees.
>
> Dan Helsper
> Poplar Grove, IL.
>
> *
>
>
> *
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Ash <ashcan(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Low level flying |
So as long as I don't shake hands with the locomotive engineer, I'll be fine.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
>From: Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov>
>Sent: Apr 28, 2010 8:06 AM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Low level flying
>
>
>The FAA regulations are intentionally non-specific so that one can
>interpret them and remain within "The Letter of the Law."
>
>So, yes.
>
>:-)
>
>dan
>
>On 04/28/2010 06:45 AM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>> 91.119c "the aircraft may not be operated closer than 500 feet to
>> any person, vessel, vehicle, or structure."
>>
>> Does this mean I can swoop down and do low-level tree-top stuff, as long
>> as there is no person, vessel, or structure? One year I got a great ride
>> like that from a Bi-plane guy. What a thrill! In and out of the trees.
>>
>> Dan Helsper
>> Poplar Grove, IL.
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>--
>Dan Yocum
>Fermilab 630.840.6509
>yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
>"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Scott Knowlton " <flyingscott_k(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Low level flying |
I'm pretty sure the FAA has the same fine print in their low flying regs as we
do here in Canada.
Flying below 500 above the highest obstacle is prohibited for purposes other than
take off, landing.
A practise forced approach or precautionary approach is an exception to the above.
One might find a suiteable field to practice over that happens to be running parallel
to a railroad track....
All within the law...
Scott Knowlton
Slow builder in Burlington
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Ash <ashcan(at)earthlink.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 12:29:55
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Low level flying
So as long as I don't shake hands with the locomotive engineer, I'll be fine.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
>From: Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov>
>Sent: Apr 28, 2010 8:06 AM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Low level flying
>
>
>The FAA regulations are intentionally non-specific so that one can
>interpret them and remain within "The Letter of the Law."
>
>So, yes.
>
>:-)
>
>dan
>
>On 04/28/2010 06:45 AM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>> 91.119c "the aircraft may not be operated closer than 500 feet to
>> any person, vessel, vehicle, or structure."
>>
>> Does this mean I can swoop down and do low-level tree-top stuff, as long
>> as there is no person, vessel, or structure? One year I got a great ride
>> like that from a Bi-plane guy. What a thrill! In and out of the trees.
>>
>> Dan Helsper
>> Poplar Grove, IL.
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>--
>Dan Yocum
>Fermilab 630.840.6509
>yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
>"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | questions for Kevin Purtee |
Just looked through the pix of Niner Kilo Papa that
Chris put up at Westcoastpiet and I have two questions.
One, how does the engine sound with those ultra-short
and straight exhaust stacks? Does it bark pretty bad?
Two, looking at the pix of the bare fuselage on the
gear in the driveway, as well as the completed plane,
it looks like the nose sits really high compared to
my airplane. When you touch down in a full stall,
that baby must be REALLY stalled! Or do you ever get
the stick all the way back in the flare? Maybe it's
that way with all the "motorcycle wheel" Piets?!
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation]" <michael.d.cuy(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | checking for deer on the runway/ groundhog holes |
Many times at my home airport at dusk there are deer either near the runway edges
or standing leisurely right on the runway itself so as a pure SAFETY measure I
often
times will do a low level fly by over the runway prior to landing to scare any
deer
away from the runway.
Of course sometimes I do this at high noon as well just because some deer are late
sleepers.
In all cases I make sure that there are no other planes in the pattern or back-taxiing
or
in the turn-arounds waiting to takeoff.
Part of this I say in fun and part of it very real because my flight instructor
and I killed
a deer by accident that darted in front of the Cherokee I was landing at Northfield
Airport
in Ohio back in the early 80's and it damaged the left landing gear and flap.
The airplane
veered to the left and the flight instructor pushed hard right rudder to keep us
from
going into the tree line next to the runway.
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Low level flying |
Mike, I think I know who you are talking about, He mentioned something about getting
out early while at Brodhead to do some low flying. And for all you train
chasers, be DAMN careful, utility companies, telecomunication etc love to get
easements from railroads for towers, pole lines and other conspicuous obstructions,
so just watch out for them, they get built within days, and might not
be on you sectional. One other incident I read a while ago, involved an ultralight
who was following a train, got to close (really close) and the train's wake
caused him to meet his maker.
OK, my fatherly speech is over, go buzz someone you know......or don't know,
Shad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: checking for deer on the runway/ groundhog holes |
Kids, deer, coyotes, cats, and dogs. All have made for 'interesting'
landings and roll-outs at 2GA9. Buzzing the field doesn't seem to
phase any of them, but it's fun!
--
Jeff Boatright
"Now let's think about this..."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Low level flying |
When I was deciding my paint layout, I considered the large registration
numbers on the wings. I like to fly low over the river and beach, and
very seldom go lower than 500 feet. I've been cruising down the beach
at 200 ft and come across some surfers that would technically cause a
violation. One of the beauties of the Pietenpol is your registration
numbers only need to be I think 2 inches tall, I made mine slightly
bigger than that, but I left the large "There goes Ben" numbers off of
the wing.
Ben
On 4/28/2010 8:29 AM, Jim Ash wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jim Ash
>
> So as long as I don't shake hands with the locomotive engineer, I'll be fine.
>
> Jim
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>> From: Dan Yocum<yocum(at)fnal.gov>
>> Sent: Apr 28, 2010 8:06 AM
>> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Low level flying
>>
>> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Dan Yocum
>>
>> The FAA regulations are intentionally non-specific so that one can
>> interpret them and remain within "The Letter of the Law."
>>
>> So, yes.
>>
>> :-)
>>
>> dan
>>
>> On 04/28/2010 06:45 AM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>>> 91.119c "the aircraft may not be operated closer than 500 feet to
>>> any person, vessel, vehicle, or structure."
>>>
>>> Does this mean I can swoop down and do low-level tree-top stuff, as long
>>> as there is no person, vessel, or structure? One year I got a great ride
>>> like that from a Bi-plane guy. What a thrill! In and out of the trees.
>>>
>>> Dan Helsper
>>> Poplar Grove, IL.
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>> --
>> Dan Yocum
>> Fermilab 630.840.6509
>> yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
>> "I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | First Passenger Ride today! |
It is a beautiful day here in Florida today. I hadn't flown the Piet in
a week and a half because its been so windy. This morning I went up and
did 3 landings, and the winds still weren't too bad. Called my wife and
had her come out to the airport for her first ride. I hadn't flown a
passenger in about 15 years. We flew down the Indian River, up to New
Smyrna Beach, my typical flight. Visibility was about 30 miles under
clear skies. It was just really cool to be able to share the experience
with her. She got a kick out of the pre-flight briefing about how this
is a homebuilt aircraft, built by an amateur, etc.... My intercom was
turned off when I got ready to land, and I didn't know to remind her to
move her head to one side. This was my first landing not being able to
just look ahead for the runway centerline. I had about a 9 kt wind 40
degrees off the runway heading, but managed to do a nice one wheel
landing on the upwind wheel, and Carol's response was "Awesome". It
doesn't get much better than this, guys. Hope to post some pictures later.
Ben Charvet
NX866BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Low level flying |
Ben, I considered that before putting the 30" numbers on my wing, but I
figured if someone told the FAA "It was an open cockpit parasol wing
monoplane with wire wheels" the Feds would know where to look with or
without registration numbers.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Charvet
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2010 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Low level flying
When I was deciding my paint layout, I considered the large registration
numbers on the wings. I like to fly low over the river and beach, and
very seldom go lower than 500 feet. I've been cruising down the beach
at 200 ft and come across some surfers that would technically cause a
violation. One of the beauties of the Pietenpol is your registration
numbers only need to be I think 2 inches tall, I made mine slightly
bigger than that, but I left the large "There goes Ben" numbers off of
the wing.
Ben
On 4/28/2010 8:29 AM, Jim Ash wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jim Ash
>
> So as long as I don't shake hands with the locomotive engineer, I'll be
fine.
>
> Jim
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>> From: Dan Yocum<yocum(at)fnal.gov>
>> Sent: Apr 28, 2010 8:06 AM
>> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Low level flying
>>
>> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Dan Yocum
>>
>> The FAA regulations are intentionally non-specific so that one can
>> interpret them and remain within "The Letter of the Law."
>>
>> So, yes.
>>
>> :-)
>>
>> dan
>>
>> On 04/28/2010 06:45 AM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>>> 91.119c "the aircraft may not be operated closer than 500 feet to
>>> any person, vessel, vehicle, or structure."
>>>
>>> Does this mean I can swoop down and do low-level tree-top stuff, as long
>>> as there is no person, vessel, or structure? One year I got a great ride
>>> like that from a Bi-plane guy. What a thrill! In and out of the trees.
>>>
>>> Dan Helsper
>>> Poplar Grove, IL.
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>> --
>> Dan Yocum
>> Fermilab 630.840.6509
>> yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
>> "I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More ribs????? |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
Great to hear that you are getting some work in Jim! Hey, give me a shout if you
need a hand. Oh, and if you don't already have a shop picked out to help you
with your clean up... I'd like to recommend Lucito's in Tulsa. They made my
40+ year old Corvair look factory new.
--------
Mark - working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296070#296070
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: cable crimper |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
Here are some details on my Nicopress knock off that I got from Home Depot (like
Clif's). Not as nice as the original tool, but should definitely get me trough
this project. The jaws are adjustable, so it might hold up for several projects.
Once I nailed the dimension I wanted, it hasn't budged.
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=67270&highlight
--------
Mark - working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296071#296071
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Low level flying |
Here's 43 seconds of my Pietenpol low flying in the hills of California
(prior to me purchasing 'er):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xFjXOhPYm1w&playnext_from=TL&videos=f1xihDFyjbo
On 04/28/2010 06:45 AM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> 91.119c "the aircraft may not be operated closer than 500 feet to
> any person, vessel, vehicle, or structure."
>
> Does this mean I can swoop down and do low-level tree-top stuff, as long
> as there is no person, vessel, or structure? One year I got a great ride
> like that from a Bi-plane guy. What a thrill! In and out of the trees.
>
> Dan Helsper
> Poplar Grove, IL.
>
> *
>
>
> *
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: questions for Kevin Purtee |
| From: | "kevinpurtee" <kevin.purtee(at)us.army.mil> |
Hi Oscar - I've been told on several occasions that it "sounds good." I've never
been told "it's quiet."
It wheel lands a lot better than it 3 point lands. That may have a lot to do with
the big tires. I can verify that in 90+ hours and ~350 landings the stick
has never been completely back on touchdown.
I'm going to try to make it to Kingsbury on May 8th. Hope to see you there if
you can swing it.
Kevin
NX899KP
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296074#296074
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Added new pictures to the web site |
| From: | "kevinpurtee" <kevin.purtee(at)us.army.mil> |
Thanks for all you do, Chris. I sent you a lot of pictures that I consider inane,
but know from personal experience that a builder can pick up something helpful
that the photographer would never anticipate. I've found helpful details
on the fringes of many pics posted on westcoastpiet.
I owe you beer, man!
Kevin
NX899KP
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296078#296078
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Low level flying |
I'm sure others' experiences have been different, but for the type of
"no-harm, no-foul" incidences we're talking about here, my experience
with authorities (whether fed or local) has uniformly been that if a
complaint were lodged and the N-number not provided or was in doubt,
the agent would use that as the "reason" for not pursuing the eevil
pilot. "Sorrow, sir, that the mean old airplane terrorized your two
year old and caused you to wet yourself, but without a confirmed
N-number, we really can't do much."
YMMV
>
>Ben, I considered that before putting the 30" numbers on my wing, but I
>figured if someone told the FAA "It was an open cockpit parasol wing
>monoplane with wire wheels" the Feds would know where to look with or
>without registration numbers.
>
>Jack Phillips
>NX899JP
>Raleigh, NC
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Low level flying |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
Who says those big three foot high numbers you paint on the top and bottom
of your wings have to be your N number? Assuming you have your real N numbe
r
in the proper size and location on the tail.
rick
On Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 10:46 AM, Ben Charvet wrote
:
>
>
> When I was deciding my paint layout, I considered the large registration
> numbers on the wings. I like to fly low over the river and beach, and ve
ry
> seldom go lower than 500 feet. I've been cruising down the beach at 200
ft
> and come across some surfers that would technically cause a violation. O
ne
> of the beauties of the Pietenpol is your registration numbers only need t
o
> be I think 2 inches tall, I made mine slightly bigger than that, but I le
ft
> the large "There goes Ben" numbers off of the wing.
>
> Ben
> On 4/28/2010 8:29 AM, Jim Ash wrote:
>
>> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jim Ash
>>
>> So as long as I don't shake hands with the locomotive engineer, I'll be
>> fine.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>
>>
>>> From: Dan Yocum<yocum(at)fnal.gov>
>>> Sent: Apr 28, 2010 8:06 AM
>>> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Low level flying
>>>
>>> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Dan Yocum
>>>
>>> The FAA regulations are intentionally non-specific so that one can
>>> interpret them and remain within "The Letter of the Law."
>>>
>>> So, yes.
>>>
>>> :-)
>>>
>>> dan
>>>
>>> On 04/28/2010 06:45 AM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> =A7 91.119c "the aircraft may not be operated closer than 500 feet
to
>>>> any person, vessel, vehicle, or structure."
>>>>
>>>> Does this mean I can swoop down and do low-level tree-top stuff, as lo
ng
>>>> as there is no person, vessel, or structure? One year I got a great ri
de
>>>> like that from a Bi-plane guy. What a thrill! In and out of the trees.
>>>>
>>>> Dan Helsper
>>>> Poplar Grove, IL.
>>>>
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>>
>>> --
>>> Dan Yocum
>>> Fermilab 630.840.6509
>>> yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
>>> "I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Metcalfe <fmetcalf(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Low level flying |
If ya fly low enough They cant see those big number on your wing...........
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Ben Charvet <bcharv
et(at)bellsouth.net>=0ATo: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Wed, April 28,
2010 12:46:05 PM=0ASubject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Low level flying=0A=0A-->
Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ben Charvet =0A
=0AWhen I was deciding my paint layout, I considered the large registration
=0Anumbers on the wings.- I like to fly low over the river and beach, an
d =0Avery seldom go lower than 500 feet.- I've been cruising down the bea
ch =0Aat 200 ft and come across some surfers that would technically cause a
=0Aviolation.- One of the beauties of the Pietenpol is your registration
=0Anumbers only need to be I think 2 inches tall, I made mine slightly =0A
bigger than that, but I left the large "There goes Ben" numbers off of =0At
he wing.=0A=0ABen=0AOn 4/28/2010 8:29 AM, Jim Ash wrote:=0A> -->- Pietenp
ol-List message posted by: Jim Ash=0A>=0A> So as long
as I don't shake hands with the locomotive engineer, I'll be fine.=0A>=0A>
Jim=0A>=0A>=0A> -----Original Message-----=0A>- - =0A>> From: Dan Yocu
m=0A>> Sent: Apr 28, 2010 8:06 AM=0A>> To: pietenpol-list@m
atronics.com=0A>> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Low level flying=0A>>=0A>> -
->- Pietenpol-List message posted by: Dan Yocum=0A>>=0A>>
The FAA regulations are intentionally non-specific so that one can=0A>> in
terpret them and remain within "The Letter of the Law."=0A>>=0A>> So, yes.
=0A>>=0A>> :-)=0A>>=0A>> dan=0A>>=0A>> On 04/28/2010 06:45 AM, helspersew@a
ol.com wrote:=0A>>- - - =0A>>>- - - =A7 91.119c "the aircraft m
ay not be operated closer than 500 feet to=0A>>>- - - any person, ves
sel, vehicle, or structure."=0A>>>=0A>>> Does this mean I can swoop down an
d do low-level tree-top stuff, as long=0A>>> as there is no person, vessel,
or structure? One year I got a great ride=0A>>> like that from a Bi-plane
guy. What a thrill! In and out of the trees.=0A>>>=0A>>>- - - Dan Hel
sper=0A>>>- - - Poplar Grove, IL.=0A>>>=0A>>> *=0A>>>=0A>>>=0A>>> *
=0A>>>- - - - =0A>> -- =0A>> Dan Yocum=0A>> Fermilab- 630.840.650
9=0A>> yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov=0A>> "I fly because it rel
eases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>
-========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AMsafetyC(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: First Passenger Ride today! |
Wow Ben that's great a first ride that ended in a "WOW that's awesome" just
too much for mortal men to ever hope to receive.
Great job
John
Do not arvhive
In a message dated 4/28/2010 12:54:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net writes:
bcharvet@bellsouth
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: questions for Kevin Purtee |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
This gives an idea of the sound, at least on takeoff and landing....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDj-LQ0cfyk
Ryan
On Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 7:45 AM, Oscar Zuniga wrote:
>
>
> Just looked through the pix of Niner Kilo Papa that
> Chris put up at Westcoastpiet and I have two questions.
>
> One, how does the engine sound with those ultra-short
> and straight exhaust stacks? Does it bark pretty bad?
>
> Two, looking at the pix of the bare fuselage on the
> gear in the driveway, as well as the completed plane,
> it looks like the nose sits really high compared to
> my airplane. When you touch down in a full stall,
> that baby must be REALLY stalled! Or do you ever get
> the stick all the way back in the flare? Maybe it's
> that way with all the "motorcycle wheel" Piets?!
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Air Camper NX41CC
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TOM STINEMETZE" <TOMS(at)mcpcity.com> |
I just saw another nice uTube video of how to get in the passenger's seat
on a wire wheel Piet. However I have never seen a video of how to get in
the PILOT's seat. I am trying to decide if I need to put in a step and,
if so, where. Any advice would be appreciated.
Stinemetze
N328X (to be)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dortch, Steven D MAJ NG NG NGB" <steven.d.dortch(at)us.army.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Low level flying |
Couple of weekends ago I saw a Bell Huey at a military reenactment. It had the
military numbers and the N number was done in a "weathered" look so that it did
not stand out from the military numbers. It was privately owned and there as
part of a historical presentation on the Vietnam war.
It sure has a distinctive "Wop Wop" Sound. I said "that is a Huey" long before
we saw it coming.
Blue Skies,
Steve D
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com>
Date: Wednesday, April 28, 2010 19:30
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Low level flying
> Who says those big three foot high numbers you paint on the top
> and bottom
> of your wings have to be your N number? Assuming you have your
> real N number
> in the proper size and location on the tail.
>
> rick
>
> On Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 10:46 AM, Ben Charvet
> >
> > When I was deciding my paint layout, I considered the large registration
> > numbers on the wings. I like to fly low over the river and beach, and very
> > seldom go lower than 500 feet. I've been cruising down the beach at 200 ft
> > and come across some surfers that would technically cause a violation. One
> > of the beauties of the Pietenpol is your registration numbers only need to
> > be I think 2 inches tall, I made mine slightly bigger than that, but I left
> > the large "There goes Ben" numbers off of the wing.
> >
> > Ben
> > On 4/28/2010 8:29 AM, Jim Ash wrote:
> >
> >> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jim Ash<
> >>
> >> So as long as I don't shake hands with the locomotive engineer, I'll be
> >> fine.
> >>
> >> Jim
> >>
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >>
> >>
> >>> From: Dan Yocum<
> >>> Sent: Apr 28, 2010 8:06 AM
> >>> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> >>> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Low level flying
> >>>
> >>> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Dan Yocum<
> >>>
> >>> The FAA regulations are intentionally non-specific so that one can
> >>> interpret them and remain within "The Letter of the Law."
> >>>
> >>> So, yes.
> >>>
> >>> :-)
> >>>
> >>> dan
> >>>
> >>> On 04/28/2010 06:45 AM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> 91.119c "the aircraft may not be operated closer than 500 feet to
> >>>> any person, vessel, vehicle, or structure."
> >>>>
> >>>> Does this mean I can swoop down and do low-level tree-top stuff, as long
> >>>> as there is no person, vessel, or structure? One year I got a great ride
> >>>> like that from a Bi-plane guy. What a thrill! In and out of the trees.
> >>>>
> >>>> Dan Helsper
> >>>> Poplar Grove, IL.
> >>>>
> >>>> *
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> *
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>> --
> >>> Dan Yocum
> >>> Fermilab 630.840.6509
> >>> yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
> >>> "I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
> ===========
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Rick Holland
> Castle Rock, Colorado
>
> "Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nicopress Tool |
| From: | "taildrags" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
What did you adjust to change the crimp dimension?
--------
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
Air Camper NX41CC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296118#296118
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barry Davis" <bed(at)mindspring.com> |
We used a cheaper one about 24" long found on ebay for around $40 and it
worked great for all 6 Big Piets. We bought a Go/NoGo gauge from Aircraft
Spruce to check our crimps. The tool is adjustable so you will get happy
results.
Barry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of skellytown
flyer
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2010 4:13 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cable crimper
-->
Well I need to do quite a few Nicopress crimps yet on 1/8" cable on my
project. I have used one of the slow bolt together tools for a long time but
I have messed up on to many nico's with it.I'm ready to try something
different.I have read in the past that some folks were having decent results
with a tool that probably came from harbor freight or some such store. I'm
not crazy about buying another cheap Chinese made tool but if it will get me
through this project I guess I need to.can anyone tell me if they have used
one with good results? there is a store in Amarillo about 55 miles from
here. Raymond
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=295916#295916
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wayne Bressler <wayne(at)taildraggersinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: checking for deer on the runway/ groundhog holes |
Didn't Jack share a video a while back that showed a deer darting off
the side of the runway during the landing rollout?
Clearing for safety is rarely a *bad* idea.
Then again, we had a kid in a 152 get attacked by a deer while doing
touch and go's. So a clearing pass is no guaruntee, I guess.
Wayne Bressler Jr.
Taildraggers, Inc.
taildraggersinc.com
On Apr 28, 2010, at 8:54 AM, "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC
Aerospace Corporation]" wrote:
> [ASRC Aerospace Corporation]"
>
> Many times at my home airport at dusk there are deer either near the
> runway edges
> or standing leisurely right on the runway itself so as a pure SAFETY
> measure I often
> times will do a low level fly by over the runway prior to landing to
> scare any deer
> away from the runway.
>
> Of course sometimes I do this at high noon as well just because some
> deer are late sleepers.
> In all cases I make sure that there are no other planes in the
> pattern or back-taxiing or
> in the turn-arounds waiting to takeoff.
>
> Part of this I say in fun and part of it very real because my flight
> instructor and I killed
> a deer by accident that darted in front of the Cherokee I was
> landing at Northfield Airport
> in Ohio back in the early 80's and it damaged the left landing gear
> and flap. The airplane
> veered to the left and the flight instructor pushed hard right
> rudder to keep us from
> going into the tree line next to the runway.
>
> Mike C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Passenger Ride today! |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
Sounds like a great time Ben. You think a passenger head in your way on
landing is distracting, think what it's like landing with one of those big
fat Model A radiators in your face.
rick
On Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 10:53 AM, Ben Charvet wrote:
>
> It is a beautiful day here in Florida today. I hadn't flown the Piet in a
> week and a half because its been so windy. This morning I went up and did 3
> landings, and the winds still weren't too bad. Called my wife and had her
> come out to the airport for her first ride. I hadn't flown a passenger in
> about 15 years. We flew down the Indian River, up to New Smyrna Beach, my
> typical flight. Visibility was about 30 miles under clear skies. It was
> just really cool to be able to share the experience with her. She got a
> kick out of the pre-flight briefing about how this is a homebuilt aircraft,
> built by an amateur, etc.... My intercom was turned off when I got ready to
> land, and I didn't know to remind her to move her head to one side. This
> was my first landing not being able to just look ahead for the runway
> centerline. I had about a 9 kt wind 40 degrees off the runway heading, but
> managed to do a nice one wheel landing on the upwind wheel, and Carol's
> response was "Awesome". It doesn't get much better than this, guys. Hope
> to post some pictures later.
>
> Ben Charvet
> NX866BC
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Low level flying |
Tricksy! Hobbits are tricksy, they are!
>Who says those big three foot high numbers you paint on the top and
>bottom of your wings have to be your N number? Assuming you have
>your real N number in the proper size and location on the tail.
>
>rick
--
Jeff Boatright
"Now let's think about this..."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nicopress Tool |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
It is hard to see in my photos, but there is a big set screw (hex type) that adjusts
the pivot lever, which adjusts the jaw in or out (tighter or looser).
If you look at the pivot point, on the red body (not the handles), you will notice
a lever positioned between the two. One end is bolted to the center of the
tool... if you follow it back you can see that it is pinned to the opposite
side (also painted red at the pin) and continues back. At the end of this lever,
on the top side of the tool (as the photo is oriented), is where you will
find the set screw adjustment. If you follow the action of the lever, you can
see how it would adjust the jaws in and out.
Hope this helps.
--------
Mark - working on wings
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296140#296140
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael F. Townsley" <allischalmersguy(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: questions for Kevin Purtee |
That was pretty awesome! Thanks Ryan.
Mike Townsley
Ryan Mueller wrote:
> This gives an idea of the sound, at least on takeoff and landing....
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDj-LQ0cfyk
>
> Ryan
>
> On Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 7:45 AM, Oscar Zuniga > wrote:
>
> >
>
>
> Just looked through the pix of Niner Kilo Papa that
> Chris put up at Westcoastpiet and I have two questions.
>
> One, how does the engine sound with those ultra-short
> and straight exhaust stacks? Does it bark pretty bad?
>
> Two, looking at the pix of the bare fuselage on the
> gear in the driveway, as well as the completed plane,
> it looks like the nose sits really high compared to
> my airplane. When you touch down in a full stall,
> that baby must be REALLY stalled! Or do you ever get
> the stick all the way back in the flare? Maybe it's
> that way with all the "motorcycle wheel" Piets?!
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Air Camper NX41CC
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
> ==========
> st" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douwe Blumberg" <douweblumberg(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Large reg numbers |
As long as you are displaying your correct "N" number in minimum 2" letters
on the tail, you can paint whatever series of letters or numbers whever you
want on the airframe, as long as a series of numbers doesn't start with the
letter "N".
My reg # is N799B (NX799B, thank you very much!) but I just painted "799" on
the wings 'cause it felt nostalgic, and doesn't give more info to the
general public than necessary, and is perfectly legal.
Douwe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: things about the straight axel |
| From: | "womenfly2" <keriannprice(at)hotmail.com> |
I agree. Make sure you fully capture the axle in all plane axis.
If I did this again I would make a side plate with a slot in it for the axle to
ride up and down in and to remove the back and forward swing. I would also not
depend on a safety cable to stop the axle travel do to a bungee cord failure
whereby letting the gear legs dig into the ground.
Seen many ways of doing this, made up with tubing or sheet stock. But I would not
do it with just bungee cord wrapped around a straight again.
Just my 2 cents.
"Keep the Dream"
--------
[url=]http://westcoastpiet.com/yesterday_wings.htm[/url]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296145#296145
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Ash <ashcan(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Low level flying |
My experience with this stuff has been that the general public observer has done
amazingling well if they can get the number of wings on the plane right.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
>From: Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu>
>Sent: Apr 28, 2010 3:44 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Low level flying
>
>
>I'm sure others' experiences have been different, but for the type of
>"no-harm, no-foul" incidences we're talking about here, my experience
>with authorities (whether fed or local) has uniformly been that if a
>complaint were lodged and the N-number not provided or was in doubt,
>the agent would use that as the "reason" for not pursuing the eevil
>pilot. "Sorrow, sir, that the mean old airplane terrorized your two
>year old and caused you to wet yourself, but without a confirmed
>N-number, we really can't do much."
>
>YMMV
>
>>
>>Ben, I considered that before putting the 30" numbers on my wing, but I
>>figured if someone told the FAA "It was an open cockpit parasol wing
>>monoplane with wire wheels" the Feds would know where to look with or
>>without registration numbers.
>>
>>Jack Phillips
>>NX899JP
>>Raleigh, NC
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Low level flying |
Hmmmm...You mean, like,
Yankee Echo, Echo, Hotel, Alpha, Whiskey ??
Clif
"I am a child who is getting on." (Marc Chagall) "It takes
a very long time to become young." (Pablo Picasso)
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Holland
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2010 1:33 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Low level flying
Who says those big three foot high numbers you paint on the top and
bottom of your wings have to be your N number? Assuming you have your
real N number in the proper size and location on the tail.
rick
On Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 10:46 AM, Ben Charvet
wrote:
When I was deciding my paint layout, I considered the large
registration numbers on the wings. I like to fly low over the river and
beach, and very seldom go lower than 500 feet. I've been cruising down
the beach at 200 ft and come across some surfers that would technically
cause a violation. One of the beauties of the Pietenpol is your
registration numbers only need to be I think 2 inches tall, I made mine
slightly bigger than that, but I left the large "There goes Ben" numbers
off of the wing.
Ben
On 4/28/2010 8:29 AM, Jim Ash wrote:
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jim
Ash
So as long as I don't shake hands with the locomotive engineer,
I'll be fine.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Yocum<yocum(at)fnal.gov>
Sent: Apr 28, 2010 8:06 AM
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Low level flying
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Dan Yocum
The FAA regulations are intentionally non-specific so that one
can
interpret them and remain within "The Letter of the Law."
So, yes.
:-)
dan
On 04/28/2010 06:45 AM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
=A7 91.119c "the aircraft may not be operated closer than
500 feet to
any person, vessel, vehicle, or structure."
Does this mean I can swoop down and do low-level tree-top
stuff, as long
as there is no person, vessel, or structure? One year I got a
great ride
like that from a Bi-plane guy. What a thrill! In and out of
the trees.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
*
*
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty
things."
==========
st"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
04/28/10 11:27:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net> |
I watched a few videos about how to get in and tried to get my wife in
that way. She's not as flexible as she used to be due to some back
surgery. I put a cross bar a few inches down from the top of my landing
gear legs (split gear). The cross bar can be used as a step. She grabs
the cabanes, puts her right foot on the cross-bar step, then leans back
to get her left leg inside the cockpit. From there she puts her head
through the left side and pulls her right leg in. Practice is probably
the key here, but she came up with this proceedure on her own.
I put a nice retractable step even with the front of the pilot's seat on
the right side. After the airplane was complete, I find it easy to
stand a little bit aft of the cockpit and throw my left leg up and over,
then climbing in from there. In 27 hours of flight I haven't used the
step yet. I'm only 55 yo now, and figure 20 years from now that step
might come in handy.
Ben
On 4/28/2010 2:27 PM, TOM STINEMETZE wrote:
> *I just saw another nice uTube video of how to get in the passenger's
> seat on a wire wheel Piet. However I have never seen a video of how
> to get in the PILOT's seat. I am trying to decide if I need to put in
> a step and, if so, where. Any advice would be appreciated.*
> **
> *Stinemetze*
> *N328X (to be)*
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Franklin <jbfjr(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: questions for Kevin Purtee or Oscar |
Kevin / Oscar,
I noticed you mentioned a fly-in at Kingsbury on 8May? I can't seem to find any
info on it on the Internet.
Can you confirm it?
Thanks,
John F.
-----Original Message-----
>From: kevinpurtee <kevin.purtee(at)us.army.mil>
>Sent: Apr 28, 2010 2:13 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: questions for Kevin Purtee
>
>
>Hi Oscar - I've been told on several occasions that it "sounds good." I've never
been told "it's quiet."
>
>It wheel lands a lot better than it 3 point lands. That may have a lot to do
with the big tires. I can verify that in 90+ hours and ~350 landings the stick
has never been completely back on touchdown.
>
>I'm going to try to make it to Kingsbury on May 8th. Hope to see you there if
you can swing it.
>
>Kevin
>NX899KP
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296074#296074
>
>
________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation]" <michael.d.cuy(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | a note rec'd from potential Piet builder |
I rec'd this e-mail off-list and posted it for the guy who would like some
input. I don't have time to address his questions
but told him to join the Matronics list and he could see if anyone has any
suggestions for words of wisdom for him.
Thanks,
Mike C.
Dear Mike,
I'm thinking that the Pientenpole is a good choice for me. I have built thi
ngs from wood before. My last project was a birdhouse, and I got a good mar
k on it (in 1964) in woodworking class. I have also assembled a few cabinet
s from Ikea, with only a few leftover parts. I think the Pientenpole would
make a good cross-country aircraft for me and my family. I like the antique
look. I will be installing a glass panel. From what I have read, it is a b
it draggy, so I plan to use the modernized, GN-1 plans. Can you tell me how
roomy the cockpit is? I'm average sized (5' - 1 3/4" tall, 261 pounds), bu
t I do have arthritis in my legs, so I will be putting doors on both sides.
I will be using the Corvair for power, as I hope to achieve a cruise speed
of 150+ mph, and because that's what every new builder plans to use. I hav
e plenty of plywood that I have salvaged from the little crates that Clemen
tines come in. Anyone know a good source for Popular? Does anyone have a se
t of used plans they would like to sell (cheap)?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Low level flying |
I do have an 18 inch Pelican on the side of my fuselage that would make
me pretty easy to identify too. Wouldn't actually give them my address
though....
I do most of my low level flying about 25 miles from home, down New
Smyrna Beach, or out over the St Johns river. I doubt the cows,
alligators or airboats out there would complain.
Ben
On 4/28/2010 1:38 PM, Jack Phillips wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jack Phillips"
>
> Ben, I considered that before putting the 30" numbers on my wing, but I
> figured if someone told the FAA "It was an open cockpit parasol wing
> monoplane with wire wheels" the Feds would know where to look with or
> without registration numbers.
>
> Jack Phillips
> NX899JP
> Raleigh, NC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Charvet
> Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2010 12:46 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Low level flying
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ben Charvet
>
> When I was deciding my paint layout, I considered the large registration
> numbers on the wings. I like to fly low over the river and beach, and
> very seldom go lower than 500 feet. I've been cruising down the beach
> at 200 ft and come across some surfers that would technically cause a
> violation. One of the beauties of the Pietenpol is your registration
> numbers only need to be I think 2 inches tall, I made mine slightly
> bigger than that, but I left the large "There goes Ben" numbers off of
> the wing.
>
> Ben
> On 4/28/2010 8:29 AM, Jim Ash wrote:
>
>> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jim Ash
>>
>> So as long as I don't shake hands with the locomotive engineer, I'll be
>>
> fine.
>
>> Jim
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>
>>
>>> From: Dan Yocum<yocum(at)fnal.gov>
>>> Sent: Apr 28, 2010 8:06 AM
>>> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Low level flying
>>>
>>> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Dan Yocum
>>>
>>> The FAA regulations are intentionally non-specific so that one can
>>> interpret them and remain within "The Letter of the Law."
>>>
>>> So, yes.
>>>
>>> :-)
>>>
>>> dan
>>>
>>> On 04/28/2010 06:45 AM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> 91.119c "the aircraft may not be operated closer than 500 feet to
>>>> any person, vessel, vehicle, or structure."
>>>>
>>>> Does this mean I can swoop down and do low-level tree-top stuff, as long
>>>> as there is no person, vessel, or structure? One year I got a great ride
>>>> like that from a Bi-plane guy. What a thrill! In and out of the trees.
>>>>
>>>> Dan Helsper
>>>> Poplar Grove, IL.
>>>>
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>>
>>> --
>>> Dan Yocum
>>> Fermilab 630.840.6509
>>> yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
>>> "I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: a note rec'd from potential Piet builder |
| From: | "flea" <jimgriggs(at)yahoo.com> |
I suspect humor is at play here.
either that or at 5'9" 220 I'm tall and thin. ( I don't feel very tall and thin.
. .)
On the other hand a 150 mph piet is entirely possible i think. After you have
whistled right past Vne, and the wings and empanage have left you, you would be
left with a 100hp lawn dart that should be capable of 150. assuming you have
the altitude of course. :)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296174#296174
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | james dankovich <jdankochiro(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Anyone know of a Piet for sale? |
Hello....I have been reading for about a year now.- After abandoning a co
uple of projects, I realize I am just not much of a builder. But, does anyo
ne know of a Piet for sale?- You may want to contact me off list... thank
s!
-
Jim- jdankochiro(at)yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Ash <ashcan(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First Passenger Ride today! |
Yeah, baby. Good for you. Greasers score extra points with passengers.
I kinda got used to the head thing flying passengers in a 2-33. I tend to move
my head a lot to where they aren't, or keep mine to one extreme side. Sometimes
I use the runway edge off of one side as a guide, eyeball my distance to the
centerline, and hope I'm not going deer hunting at the last instant. Sometimes
you just have to concede a head-shaped blind spot ahead of you. The ones that
annoy me are the ones that are all over the place; I've asked/told a couple
of them to sit still for a minute while on short final. With a tailtragger you
should be used to taking off and landing with poor forward visibility anyhow.
Nice meeting you at SNF, BTW.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
>From: Ben Charvet <bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net>
>Sent: Apr 28, 2010 12:53 PM
>To: Pietenpol list
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: First Passenger Ride today!
>
>
>It is a beautiful day here in Florida today. I hadn't flown the Piet in
>a week and a half because its been so windy. This morning I went up and
>did 3 landings, and the winds still weren't too bad. Called my wife and
>had her come out to the airport for her first ride. I hadn't flown a
>passenger in about 15 years. We flew down the Indian River, up to New
>Smyrna Beach, my typical flight. Visibility was about 30 miles under
>clear skies. It was just really cool to be able to share the experience
>with her. She got a kick out of the pre-flight briefing about how this
>is a homebuilt aircraft, built by an amateur, etc.... My intercom was
>turned off when I got ready to land, and I didn't know to remind her to
>move her head to one side. This was my first landing not being able to
>just look ahead for the runway centerline. I had about a 9 kt wind 40
>degrees off the runway heading, but managed to do a nice one wheel
>landing on the upwind wheel, and Carol's response was "Awesome". It
>doesn't get much better than this, guys. Hope to post some pictures later.
>
>Ben Charvet
>NX866BC
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
I have short legs and I can do it easily without a step, etc. I'll
make a video of it, but I won't be able to for a couple of weeks.
>Content-Type: text/html; charset=US-ASCII
>Content-Description: HTML
>
>I just saw another nice uTube video of how to get in the passenger's
>seat on a wire wheel Piet. However I have never seen a video of how
>to get in the PILOT's seat. I am trying to decide if I need to put
>in a step and, if so, where. Any advice would be appreciated.
>
>Stinemetze
>N328X (to be)
>
--
Jeff Boatright
"Now let's think about this..."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Large reg numbers and more |
Maybe you fellows have been saying the same thing, but it looks to me like on a
Piet or such an iteration of an older design:
1. only the 2 inch numbers on the tail are needed.
2 you can use an "NX" number, and if so, that "experimental" does not have to
appear on the plane.
3. since fabric-covered, the registration PLATE does not have to be on the fuselage
near the tail, but can be in the front cockpit or the like.
Are these the right conclusions? I know I have seen a lot of such implementations.
Tim in central TX
-----Original Message-----
>From: Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg(at)earthlink.net>
>Sent: Apr 29, 2010 9:10 AM
>To: pietenpolgroup
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Large reg numbers
>
>
>As long as you are displaying your correct "N" number in minimum 2" letters
>on the tail, you can paint whatever series of letters or numbers whever you
>want on the airframe, as long as a series of numbers doesn't start with the
>letter "N".
>
>My reg # is N799B (NX799B, thank you very much!) but I just painted "799" on
>the wings 'cause it felt nostalgic, and doesn't give more info to the
>general public than necessary, and is perfectly legal.
>
>Douwe
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevinpurtee" <kevin.purtee(at)us.army.mil> |
I have tall wheels, per-the-plans cabanes and the wing's 4" back. I'm not flexible.
I practiced getting in and out and now I simply swing my right leg up into
the cockpit and wriggle in with no problem. Didn't think I'd be able to do
it initially.
Kevin Purtee
NX899KP
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296197#296197
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Aluminum strut insert material (resend) |
Looks like my first email did not go through, or is very slow, so here it i
s again:
-
Since the cabane struts are held onto the fuselage with spruce-and the st
eel fittings, I am wondering if a hard wood, (oak, ash...) would work as an
insert for the aluminum strut itself.- The struts I am using have a 3/4"
flat machined inside the entire length for the insert. Most use aluminum o
r steel inserts, but since the-fittings themselves are-bolted to spruce
, curious if a hard wood would be fine up inside the strut.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Aluminum strut insert material |
Since the cabane struts are held onto the fuselage with spruce-and the st
eel fittings, I am wondering if a hard wood, (oak, ash...) would work as an
insert for the aluminum strut itself.- The struts I am using have a 3/4"
flat machined inside the entire length for the insert. Most use aluminum o
r steel inserts, but since the-fittings themselves are-bolted to spruce
, curious if a hard wood would be fine up inside the strut.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Ruse <steve(at)wotelectronics.com> |
| Subject: | Pietenpol airframe how many hours can it take? |
I'm curious on this...I bought my plane about five years ago. I fly
it almost every week when weather allows...usually close to 100
hours/year...I've covered probably 25,000 miles in it, including a few
900+ mile one-way trips. The airframe has somewhere below 700hrs on
it I believe. I can't imagine selling it (unless Mike Cuy or one of
you guys with the amazing Piets decides to sell to me...and even then
I'm not sure I could let mine go). So I'm wondering...how many hours
can those glue joints take? Mine was put together with DAP
Weldwood...finished in 1983. As I posted about last year, I did some
destructive testing on the passenger seat (after a poorly made joint
failed) and determined that the glue joints are still stronger than
the spruce & plywood used to make the seat (not bad after 30 years).
So to get to the point, my question is do these wood airframes have a
practical limit?
I guess really I need to find information on the aging of Weldwood
joints. Has anyone ever seen this information? Is there any
practical reason my airframe can't go 3,000 hours? 5,000? Am I
correct in assuming that the glue joints would be the first concern,
if there is one (assuming that metal fittings are appropriately
protected, etc.)?
Part of what brings up this question is that last weekend I flew
through the worst turbulence I've experienced in ~600hrs as a
pilot...I was getting yanked down by the straps...slammed up and down
so hard that the engine sputtered a few times because it wasn't
getting fuel. I was trying to skirt my way around a small spring
shower in OK, I was several miles from a large "shaft" of rain,
thought I could get around it without trouble but the turbulence and
high winds extended well past the rain...won't do that again. I
immediately turned away but still had a healthy amount of fear for a
couple of minutes until I was clear. The Air Camper brought me
through it but not without ripping an elevator gap seal in half.
Any information will be appreciated!
Steve Ruse
Norman, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov> |
Hi Tom,
N8031 has a step that's been covered over on the port side. Rob Bach's
has a step on the starboard side, as does Dan Helsper's Piet (he posted
some drool inducing photos a while back...).
I'm still a young man so I just swing my leg up an in and step on the
seat. I'm sure one day I'll be uncovering that step, though.
Dan
On 04/28/2010 01:27 PM, TOM STINEMETZE wrote:
> *I just saw another nice uTube video of how to get in the passenger's
> seat on a wire wheel Piet. However I have never seen a video of how to
> get in the PILOT's seat. I am trying to decide if I need to put in a
> step and, if so, where. Any advice would be appreciated.*
> **
> *Stinemetze*
> *N328X (to be)*
>
> *
>
>
> *
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | construction and glue |
| From: | "schuerrman" <sdschuerr(at)live.com> |
I've made the rib jig, and I realize that sanding softwood is not recommended,
so do you start with the larger pieces and just keep trying, trimming to smaller
pieces until you get it right? Has anyone had excellent results with sanding
to fit? Glue arrived yesterday and gusset material arrived today. I'm thisclose
to starting, except I really need a board planer. Engine's getting clean.
I'm finally on the move.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296210#296210
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: construction and glue |
Others have reported that sanding has no effect on joint strength of
T-88 joints. I have done a few tests and the wood always fails before
the joint whether the surfaces were sanded or not. I used a tack
cloth to remove dust. HOWEVER, I encourage you to do your own tests.
If anyone has data showing loss of stength due to sanding the
surfaces to be glued, please please point us in the direction of
those studies.
>
>I've made the rib jig, and I realize that sanding softwood is not
>recommended, so do you start with the larger pieces and just keep
>trying, trimming to smaller pieces until you get it right? Has
>anyone had excellent results with sanding to fit? Glue arrived
>yesterday and gusset material arrived today. I'm thisclose to
>starting, except I really need a board planer. Engine's getting
>clean. I'm finally on the move.
>
--
Jeff Boatright
"Now let's think about this..."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | A-65 still for sale |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
We still have an A-65 available for sale. Low time, complete logs, more info
here:
http://www.barnstormers.com/ad_detail.php?ID=420563
and please email me for details. We are now asking $2,000, which is an
excellent deal. Have a good day,
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
I like Mike Cuy's method from his DVD, where he just stands next to the
fuselage and swings his right leg in, stands up inside and brings his left
leg in and then sits down....made possible by grabbing onto the cabane and
having the center section cutout, if I recall.
502R has a wing cut out, but I don't think it's quite as deep as
Mike's....additionally, if I recall, Gene mentioned he had moved the wing
back a bit for CG purposes....those two factors combine to make it so I
wasn't able to really reach the cabane for a handhold to use to enter with
Mike's method. We'll have to play around and figure out the best way this
summer....
Ryan
On Thu, Apr 29, 2010 at 9:31 AM, Dan Yocum wrote:
>
> Hi Tom,
>
> N8031 has a step that's been covered over on the port side. Rob Bach's has
> a step on the starboard side, as does Dan Helsper's Piet (he posted some
> drool inducing photos a while back...).
>
> I'm still a young man so I just swing my leg up an in and step on the seat.
> I'm sure one day I'll be uncovering that step, though.
>
> Dan
>
>
> On 04/28/2010 01:27 PM, TOM STINEMETZE wrote:
>
>> *I just saw another nice uTube video of how to get in the passenger's
>>
>> seat on a wire wheel Piet. However I have never seen a video of how to
>> get in the PILOT's seat. I am trying to decide if I need to put in a
>> step and, if so, where. Any advice would be appreciated.*
>> **
>> *Stinemetze*
>> *N328X (to be)*
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>
> --
> Dan Yocum
> Fermilab 630.840.6509
> yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
> "I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gcardinal" <gcardinal(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Large reg numbers and more |
#1 and #2 are correct. #3 may not be correct. The data plate on NX18235 was
mounted in the rear cockpit and the DAR insisted that a metal plate with
make, model and serial # be mounted on the aft fuselage by the tail.
Greg C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Willis" <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 1:05 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Large reg numbers and more
>
>
> Maybe you fellows have been saying the same thing, but it looks to me like
> on a Piet or such an iteration of an older design:
>
> 1. only the 2 inch numbers on the tail are needed.
> 2 you can use an "NX" number, and if so, that "experimental" does not
> have to appear on the plane.
> 3. since fabric-covered, the registration PLATE does not have to be on the
> fuselage near the tail, but can be in the front cockpit or the like.
>
> Are these the right conclusions? I know I have seen a lot of such
> implementations.
> Tim in central TX
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg(at)earthlink.net>
>>Sent: Apr 29, 2010 9:10 AM
>>To: pietenpolgroup
>>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Large reg numbers
>>
>>
>>
>>As long as you are displaying your correct "N" number in minimum 2"
>>letters
>>on the tail, you can paint whatever series of letters or numbers whever
>>you
>>want on the airframe, as long as a series of numbers doesn't start with
>>the
>>letter "N".
>>
>>My reg # is N799B (NX799B, thank you very much!) but I just painted "799"
>>on
>>the wings 'cause it felt nostalgic, and doesn't give more info to the
>>general public than necessary, and is perfectly legal.
>>
>>Douwe
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | airlion <airlion(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Low level flying |
Ben, Pelican.is a bird with a beak that holds more than his belly can-- THE HELL
IT CAN Gardiner.
----- Original Message ----
From: Ben Charvet <bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Thu, April 29, 2010 8:10:32 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Low level flying
I do have an 18 inch Pelican on the side of my fuselage that would make
me pretty easy to identify too. Wouldn't actually give them my address
though....
I do most of my low level flying about 25 miles from home, down New
Smyrna Beach, or out over the St Johns river. I doubt the cows,
alligators or airboats out there would complain.
Ben
On 4/28/2010 1:38 PM, Jack Phillips wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jack Phillips"
>
> Ben, I considered that before putting the 30" numbers on my wing, but I
> figured if someone told the FAA "It was an open cockpit parasol wing
> monoplane with wire wheels" the Feds would know where to look with or
> without registration numbers.
>
> Jack Phillips
> NX899JP
> Raleigh, NC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Charvet
> Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2010 12:46 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Low level flying
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ben Charvet
>
> When I was deciding my paint layout, I considered the large registration
> numbers on the wings. I like to fly low over the river and beach, and
> very seldom go lower than 500 feet. I've been cruising down the beach
> at 200 ft and come across some surfers that would technically cause a
> violation. One of the beauties of the Pietenpol is your registration
> numbers only need to be I think 2 inches tall, I made mine slightly
> bigger than that, but I left the large "There goes Ben" numbers off of
> the wing.
>
> Ben
> On 4/28/2010 8:29 AM, Jim Ash wrote:
>
>> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jim Ash
>>
>> So as long as I don't shake hands with the locomotive engineer, I'll be
>>
> fine.
>
>> Jim
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>
>>
>>> From: Dan Yocum<yocum(at)fnal.gov>
>>> Sent: Apr 28, 2010 8:06 AM
>>> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Low level flying
>>>
>>> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Dan Yocum
>>>
>>> The FAA regulations are intentionally non-specific so that one can
>>> interpret them and remain within "The Letter of the Law."
>>>
>>> So, yes.
>>>
>>> :-)
>>>
>>> dan
>>>
>>> On 04/28/2010 06:45 AM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> 91.119c "the aircraft may not be operated closer than 500 feet to
>>>> any person, vessel, vehicle, or structure."
>>>>
>>>> Does this mean I can swoop down and do low-level tree-top stuff, as long
>>>> as there is no person, vessel, or structure? One year I got a great ride
>>>> like that from a Bi-plane guy. What a thrill! In and out of the trees.
>>>>
>>>> Dan Helsper
>>>> Poplar Grove, IL.
>>>>
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> *
>>>>
>>>>
>>> --
>>> Dan Yocum
>>> Fermilab 630.840.6509
>>> yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
>>> "I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: questions for Kevin Purtee |
| From: | "John Recine" <amsafetyc(at)aol.com> |
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DQoNCg0KDQoNCg0K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Large reg numbers and more |
My plane was inspected by the FAA FSDO and they approved my metal data plate
installed on the sidewall of the rear cockpit. DARs may not feel they have
the authority to approve anything but mounting it under the stabilizer.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gcardinal
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Large reg numbers and more
#1 and #2 are correct. #3 may not be correct. The data plate on NX18235 was
mounted in the rear cockpit and the DAR insisted that a metal plate with
make, model and serial # be mounted on the aft fuselage by the tail.
Greg C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Willis" <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 1:05 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Large reg numbers and more
>
>
> Maybe you fellows have been saying the same thing, but it looks to me like
> on a Piet or such an iteration of an older design:
>
> 1. only the 2 inch numbers on the tail are needed.
> 2 you can use an "NX" number, and if so, that "experimental" does not
> have to appear on the plane.
> 3. since fabric-covered, the registration PLATE does not have to be on the
> fuselage near the tail, but can be in the front cockpit or the like.
>
> Are these the right conclusions? I know I have seen a lot of such
> implementations.
> Tim in central TX
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg(at)earthlink.net>
>>Sent: Apr 29, 2010 9:10 AM
>>To: pietenpolgroup
>>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Large reg numbers
>>
>>
>>
>>As long as you are displaying your correct "N" number in minimum 2"
>>letters
>>on the tail, you can paint whatever series of letters or numbers whever
>>you
>>want on the airframe, as long as a series of numbers doesn't start with
>>the
>>letter "N".
>>
>>My reg # is N799B (NX799B, thank you very much!) but I just painted "799"
>>on
>>the wings 'cause it felt nostalgic, and doesn't give more info to the
>>general public than necessary, and is perfectly legal.
>>
>>Douwe
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | corrosion prevention |
| From: | "skellytown flyer" <skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com> |
I am about ready to fabricate my Jury struts on my project. It has the extruded
aluminum struts.and I am not sure whether I will make steel wraps to go around
them with tabs to bolt them to or whether I'll make simple L type brackets and
pop rivet them to the top surface and bolt to those like my Challenger and
other light aircraft designs use. I don't think a couple of rivet holes in one
side for 5/32" rivets would weaken them much at all. if I use the wraps I'm thinking
I should use some type of tape to protect from corrosion between the aluminum
and steel.probably some polyethylene tape like i have used on natural
gas pipe buried underground. any thoughts here as to what might work better? if
I did the tab I'd make it from 4130 strap with several coats of aircraft primer
on the surface between the aluminum but it would still be steel against aluminum.
Raymond
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296253#296253
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum strut insert material |
I am using Aluminum-- alloy is 6064-T-6, 1 inch (1" X 1") bars, inside my Aluminum
cabanes. I would have liked a steel tube better, but wanted a lot of internal
tube-to-bar contact and less weight than a solid steel square bar.
I would not want to use hardwood, even if it is probably safe. Read the post today
about turbulence in OK, etc., and concerns for integral construction.
Call me foolish, but I don't even like drilling through the longerons, and have
not except where absolutely necessary. Those spots where drilled at least have
two fasteners doing the job and sharing the load-- motor mounts, LG come to
mind.
I respect the opinions of those who will support hardwood inserts and will show
the strength of wood, etc.
Tim in central TX
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Perez
Sent: Apr 28, 2010 6:58 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Aluminum strut insert material
Since the cabane struts are held onto the fuselage with spruce and the steel fittings,
I am wondering if a hard wood, (oak, ash...) would work as an insert for
the aluminum strut itself. The struts I am using have a 3/4" flat machined
inside the entire length for the insert. Most use aluminum or steel inserts,
but since the fittings themselves are bolted to spruce, curious if a hard wood
would be fine up inside the strut.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: corrosion prevention |
My DAR scoffed at my concerns about steel-to-aluminum contact. He told me he
would worry, as I knew, about aluminum to copper, zinc (galvanized) to aluminum
or copper, but not steel to aluminum.
Unpainted and unanodized aluminum will often corrode over time, getting pitted.
No doubt some of the harder alloys we use on planes are less prone to this.
And of course we know about 4130 steel and its tendencies to corrode. Etching
primers are a good place to begin.
I'd like to hear others solve your problem. I am not there yet.
Tim in central TX
-----Original Message-----
>From: skellytown flyer <skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com>
>Sent: Apr 29, 2010 9:18 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: corrosion prevention
>
>
>I am about ready to fabricate my Jury struts on my project. It has the extruded
aluminum struts.and I am not sure whether I will make steel wraps to go around
them with tabs to bolt them to or whether I'll make simple L type brackets
and pop rivet them to the top surface and bolt to those like my Challenger and
other light aircraft designs use. I don't think a couple of rivet holes in one
side for 5/32" rivets would weaken them much at all. if I use the wraps I'm
thinking I should use some type of tape to protect from corrosion between the
aluminum and steel.probably some polyethylene tape like i have used on natural
gas pipe buried underground. any thoughts here as to what might work better?
if I did the tab I'd make it from 4130 strap with several coats of aircraft primer
on the surface between the aluminum but it would still be steel against aluminum.
Raymond
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296253#296253
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pieti Lowell" <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com> |
A lot of common sense works wonders , entering the front or rear, helping the girls
is a plus, and since I passed 80's a couple years ago, it takes a bit more
effort, DO NOT use the exit method I used with Douwe's Piet, although it was
quick, release the safety belt and wa-la your out much quicker than the entry,
Pieti Lowell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296259#296259
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: A-65 still for sale |
| From: | "Bill Church" <billspiet(at)sympatico.ca> |
That's a deal and a half.
Almost makes me wish I didn't have my engine.
BC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296262#296262
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: construction and glue |
Sanding does fill the pores with useless debrie thus blocking
the entry of glue or epoxy. The recommended method is
scraping with a cabinet scraper. Using and sharpening these
is not that difficult. Once learned I guarantee you'll be
using the things for everything. The shhhhh... of the blade,
the satisfying curl of infinitely thin shavings, THIS is what
woodcrafting is all about!
http://woodgears.ca/scraper/index.html
http://www.finewoodworking.com/pages/w00007.asp
These are my alltime favourites. I use them every chance
I get;
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32672&cat=1,310,41069
>
> The reference you may be looking for is 43-13 1b, Chap 1. It cautions
> against sanding glue joints but I suspect that the caution is based on the
> non-epoxy glue technologies that need a tighter fit. >
> Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: construction and glue |
| From: | Ameet Savant <ameetsavant(at)gmail.com> |
IMHO the strength provided by the gussets far out weigh any loss due to
sanding the glue joint. If you are worried about the sanding clogging the
pores, clean the joint very well before gluing.
I've researched why wood airframe construction does not use traditional
joinery, which claims to have some of the strongest joints but haven't found
any conclusive answers. In my mind the only reasons seem to be:
1. The small size of the truss members can't really sustain any kind of
cross-section reduction (like in traditional joinery), which could cause
localized stress points and
2. the plywood gussets provide the real strength.
Also, in due time skill level improves enough that one often realizes that
sanding to fit is nothing but overhead!
Ameet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum strut insert material |
Thank you Tim.
--- On Thu, 4/29/10, Tim Willis wrote:
From: Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Aluminum strut insert material
Date: Thursday, April 29, 2010, 10:21 PM
et>
I am using Aluminum-- alloy is 6064-T-6, 1 inch (1" X 1") bars, inside my A
luminum cabanes.- I would have liked a steel tube better, but wanted a lo
t of internal tube-to-bar contact and less weight than a solid steel square
bar.-
I would not want to use hardwood, even if it is probably safe.- Read the
post today about turbulence in OK, etc., and concerns for integral construc
tion.-
Call me foolish, but I don't even like drilling through the longerons, and
have not except where absolutely necessary.- Those spots where drilled at
least have two fasteners doing the job and sharing the load-- motor mounts
, LG come to mind.
I respect the opinions of those who will support hardwood inserts and will
show the strength of wood, etc.
Tim in central TX-
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Perez
Sent: Apr 28, 2010 6:58 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Aluminum strut insert material
Since the cabane struts are held onto the fuselage with spruce and the stee
l fittings, I am wondering if a hard wood, (oak, ash...) would work as an i
nsert for the aluminum strut itself.- The struts I am using have a 3/4" f
lat machined inside the entire length for the insert. Most use aluminum or
steel inserts, but since the fittings themselves are bolted to spruce, curi
ous if a hard wood would be fine up inside the strut.
le, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Large reg numbers and more |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
I wonder if DAR's are more anal than if you just have the Fed's come over.
I am going with the Feds'.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: gcardinal <gcardinal(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Thu, Apr 29, 2010 7:18 pm
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Large reg numbers and more
#1 and #2 are correct. #3 may not be correct. The data plate on NX18235 wa
s mounted in the rear cockpit and the DAR insisted that a metal plate with
make, model and serial # be mounted on the aft fuselage by the tail.
Greg C.
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Willis" <timothywillis(at)earthlink.n
et>
Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 1:05 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Large reg numbers and more
ink.net>
>
> Maybe you fellows have been saying the same thing, but it looks to me li
ke > on a Piet or such an iteration of an older design:
>
> 1. only the 2 inch numbers on the tail are needed.
> 2 you can use an "NX" number, and if so, that "experimental" does not >
have to appear on the plane.
> 3. since fabric-covered, the registration PLATE does not have to be on
the > fuselage near the tail, but can be in the front cockpit or the like
.
>
> Are these the right conclusions? I know I have seen a lot of such > impl
ementations.
> Tim in central TX
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg(at)earthlink.net>
>>Sent: Apr 29, 2010 9:10 AM
>>To: pietenpolgroup
>>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Large reg numbers
>>
earthlink.net>
>>
>>As long as you are displaying your correct "N" number in minimum 2" >>le
tters
>>on the tail, you can paint whatever series of letters or numbers whever
>>you
>>want on the airframe, as long as a series of numbers doesn't start with
>>the
>>letter "N".
>>
>>My reg # is N799B (NX799B, thank you very much!) but I just painted "799
" >>on
>>the wings 'cause it felt nostalgic, and doesn't give more info to the
>>general public than necessary, and is perfectly legal.
>>
>>Douwe
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
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============
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Large reg numbers and more |
| From: | "womenfly2" <keriannprice(at)hotmail.com> |
2" numbers are approved and can be placed under the tail if you so desire. NX does
eliminate the lettering "Experiment" on the machine.
FYI,
I was told that the data plate had to be Stainless Steel with stamped or etched
letters, just the information you fill-in. The explanation was that it needed
to survive a fire and so it still can be read. It was also state the data plate
be placed on the exterior of the plane, recommend to be mounted on the cowling,
so I did.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296283#296283
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol airframe how many hours can it take? |
| From: | "womenfly2" <keriannprice(at)hotmail.com> |
I have rebuild some UPF-7 wings and others glued with Weldwood glue. A chisel between
the plywood gusset plate and cap strips just popped them off clean! Only
the brads held them in-place. This was a legal airworthy machine too!
Most builders today use T-88 or similar glue which have a very longer life span.
I would say that a epoxied glued machine would well out last a Weldwood glue
machine.
Just my 2 cents.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296284#296284
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | greg menoche <gnwac(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: construction and glue |
Cliff, I'm just getting ready to begin cutting gussets for my ribs then glue.
Are you using the shapers to prep the area prior to glueing or is this tool used
to clean and prepare the gusset area that HAD once been glued? Greg Menoche
DE
-----Original Message-----
>From: Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca>
>Sent: Apr 30, 2010 3:37 AM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: construction and glue
>
>
>Sanding does fill the pores with useless debrie thus blocking
>the entry of glue or epoxy. The recommended method is
>scraping with a cabinet scraper. Using and sharpening these
>is not that difficult. Once learned I guarantee you'll be
>using the things for everything. The shhhhh... of the blade,
>the satisfying curl of infinitely thin shavings, THIS is what
>woodcrafting is all about!
>
>http://woodgears.ca/scraper/index.html
>
>http://www.finewoodworking.com/pages/w00007.asp
>
>These are my alltime favourites. I use them every chance
>I get;
>http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=32672&cat=1,310,41069
>
>
>>
>> The reference you may be looking for is 43-13 1b, Chap 1. It cautions
>> against sanding glue joints but I suspect that the caution is based on the
>> non-epoxy glue technologies that need a tighter fit. >
>> Dave
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol airframe how many hours can it take? |
Be careful when you just say "Weldwood". That is a brand name, currently
owned by DAP. The name Weldwood is appiled to their plastic resin glue,
their contact cement, and their resorcinol glue.
I suspect you were referring to plastic resin glue, which has been shown to
be less than desirable (if I recall correctly, that is the glue that Douwe's
ribs were built with, which were found to pop off gussets at the woodworking
tent at SNF this year. Douwe did not build those ribs, but bought a project
and now has found he has much more of a project ahead).
Weldwood resorcinol glue is excellent, and is in fact the ONLY glue the FAA
will accept for repairs of certificated wooden airplanes. I built most of
my Pietenpol with resorcinol (T-88 for the remainder), and had no problems
as long as it was done within the specified paramters.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of womenfly2
Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 8:27 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Pietenpol airframe how many hours can it take?
I have rebuild some UPF-7 wings and others glued with Weldwood glue. A
chisel between the plywood gusset plate and cap strips just popped them off
clean! Only the brads held them in-place. This was a legal airworthy machine
too!
Most builders today use T-88 or similar glue which have a very longer life
span. I would say that a epoxied glued machine would well out last a
Weldwood glue machine.
Just my 2 cents.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296284#296284
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim <jimboyer(at)hughes.net> |
Hi Ben,
I have put a step on mine too as I need it. I am where you will be in 17 years.
The step really makes it easy. I also put a door in the front for my wife.
Cheers,
Jim B.
Jim Boyer
Santa Rosa, CA
Pietenpol on wheels
Tail surfaces done
Wing ribs done
Corvair engine
On Apr 29, 2010, Ben Charvet wrote:
I watched a few videos about how to get in and tried to get my wife in that way.
She's not as flexible as she used to be due to some back surgery. I put a cross
bar a few inches down from the top of my landing gear legs (split gear). The
cross bar can be used as a step. She grabs the cabanes, puts her right foot
on the cross-bar step, then leans back to get her left leg inside the cockpit.
From there she puts her head through the left side and pulls her right leg in.
Practice is probably the key here, but she came up with this proceedure on
her own.
I put a nice retractable step even with the front of the pilot's seat on the right
side. After the airplane was complete, I find it easy to stand a little bit
aft of the cockpit and throw my left leg up and over, then climbing in from
there. In 27 hours of flight I haven't used the step yet. I'm only 55 yo now,
and figure 20 years from now that step might come in handy.
Ben
On 4/28/2010 2:27 PM, TOM STINEMETZE wrote:
I just saw another nice uTube video of how to get in the passenger's seat on a
wire wheel Piet. However I have never seen a video of how to get in the PILOT's
seat. I am trying to decide if I need to put in a step and, if so, where. Any
advice would be appreciated.StinemetzeN328X (to be)
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bcharvet(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: construction and glue |
I had a nice disc/belt sander in my shop when I made my ribs. If I used
the disc sander to shape the pieces of the ribs, it would clog the end
with sap, etc and ended up not looking like it would take glue. I think
a little trimming with course sandpaper by hand should work OK. Don't
forget to scuff sand the gusset material before gluing it, to break
through any resin left on the surface.
Ben Charvet
On 4/30/2010 7:11 AM, Ameet Savant wrote:
> IMHO the strength provided by the gussets far out weigh any loss due
> to sanding the glue joint. If you are worried about the sanding
> clogging the pores, clean the joint very well before gluing.
>
> I've researched why wood airframe construction does not use
> traditional joinery, which claims to have some of the strongest joints
> but haven't found any conclusive answers. In my mind the only reasons
> seem to be:
>
> 1. The small size of the truss members can't really sustain any kind
> of cross-section reduction (like in traditional joinery), which could
> cause localized stress points and
> 2. the plywood gussets provide the real strength.
>
> Also, in due time skill level improves enough that one often realizes
> that sanding to fit is nothing but overhead!
>
> Ameet
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol airframe how many hours can it take? |
| From: | "womenfly2" <keriannprice(at)hotmail.com> |
Yes, the wing was built with Weldwood resorcinol glue as the recorded logs showed.
We tried to rebuild with new WRG but could never make it pass the FAA boil
test? We had approval to rebuild with T-88.
A good read; http://rgl.faa.gov/REGULATORY_AND_GUIDANCE_LIBRARY/RGADVISORYCIRCULAR.NSF/0/99c827db9baac81b86256b4500596c4e/$FILE/Chapter%2001.pdf
Remember: any glue formula is subject to change without customer notification.
Just my experience.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296310#296310
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: construction and glue |
| From: | "Bill Church" <billspiet(at)sympatico.ca> |
Greg,
When I built my ribs, I used a stationary disc sander to miter all the ends of
my 1/4" x 1/2" rib bits. These are the ends that butt up against the top and bottom
capstrips, and although I did put a dab of glue on the ends, there is negligible
strength in that glue joint (I did it to ensure that the ends were sealed).
Don't trust a glued butt joint where your butt is on the line. As others
have said, it is the gusseted joint that really carries the load. As for the
gussets, they are made of plywood, and sometimes the face of plywood can have
a "glaze" that inhibits the absorption of glue into the wood fibers. It is considered
good practice to lightly sand (with a coarser grade of sandpaper - maybe
80 or 100 grit) the bonding face of plywood that is going to be glued, to
"scuff' the surface and improve adhesion. Just use a vacuum cleaner to remove
the fine wood dust before bonding, and you'll be fine. Now, here's the real "tip".
Do the sanding of the plywood BEFORE you cut up all the tiny little gussets.
That way you scuff up a larger area, which is MUCH easier to handle than several
hundred itty bitty rotten little stinking bits of plywood that are too
small to hold on to. If you have one, you can use an electric palm sander to make
the job a little easier.
Bill C.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296312#296312
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: construction and glue |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
Good point about the plywood Bill. My fingernails has still not grown back
from holding all those little 1/16" pieces of plywood on the belt sander.
rick
On Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 12:25 PM, Bill Church wrote:
> billspiet(at)sympatico.ca>
>
> Greg,
> When I built my ribs, I used a stationary disc sander to miter all the ends
> of my 1/4" x 1/2" rib bits. These are the ends that butt up against the top
> and bottom capstrips, and although I did put a dab of glue on the ends,
> there is negligible strength in that glue joint (I did it to ensure that the
> ends were sealed). Don't trust a glued butt joint where your butt is on the
> line. As others have said, it is the gusseted joint that really carries the
> load. As for the gussets, they are made of plywood, and sometimes the face
> of plywood can have a "glaze" that inhibits the absorption of glue into the
> wood fibers. It is considered good practice to lightly sand (with a coarser
> grade of sandpaper - maybe 80 or 100 grit) the bonding face of plywood that
> is going to be glued, to "scuff' the surface and improve adhesion. Just use
> a vacuum cleaner to remove the fine wood dust before bonding, and you'll be
> fine. Now, here's the real "tip". Do the sanding of the plywood BEFORE you
> cut up!
> all the tiny little gussets. That way you scuff up a larger area, which is
> MUCH easier to handle than several hundred itty bitty rotten little stinking
> bits of plywood that are too small to hold on to. If you have one, you can
> use an electric palm sander to make the job a little easier.
>
> Bill C.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296312#296312
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First Passenger Ride today! |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Just think about Charles Lindbergh. He had NO forward vision whatsoever.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Wed, Apr 28, 2010 3:30 pm
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: First Passenger Ride today!
Sounds like a great time Ben. You think a passenger head in your way on la
nding is distracting, think what it's like landing with one of those big
fat Model A radiators in your face.
rick
On Wed, Apr 28, 2010 at 10:53 AM, Ben Charvet wro
te:
It is a beautiful day here in Florida today. I hadn't flown the Piet in
a week and a half because its been so windy. This morning I went up and
did 3 landings, and the winds still weren't too bad. Called my wife and
had her come out to the airport for her first ride. I hadn't flown a pas
senger in about 15 years. We flew down the Indian River, up to New Smyrna
Beach, my typical flight. Visibility was about 30 miles under clear skie
s. It was just really cool to be able to share the experience with her.
She got a kick out of the pre-flight briefing about how this is a homebu
ilt aircraft, built by an amateur, etc.... My intercom was turned off whe
n I got ready to land, and I didn't know to remind her to move her head to
one side. This was my first landing not being able to just look ahead fo
r the runway centerline. I had about a 9 kt wind 40 degrees off the runwa
y heading, but managed to do a nice one wheel landing on the upwind wheel,
and Carol's response was "Awesome". It doesn't get much better than this
, guys. Hope to post some pictures later.
Ben Charvet
NX866BC
st" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
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-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: construction and glue |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Hi Steve,
Personally I would not be too worried about sanding the ends of the rib pi
eces to fit the jig. The strength of the rib is mostly going to be derived
from the face of the gusset against the side of the rib stick members. Th
ose surfaces are typically not sanded.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: schuerrman <sdschuerr(at)live.com>
Sent: Thu, Apr 29, 2010 5:59 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: construction and glue
I've made the rib jig, and I realize that sanding softwood is not recommen
ded,
o do you start with the larger pieces and just keep trying, trimming to sm
aller
ieces until you get it right? Has anyone had excellent results with sandi
ng to
it? Glue arrived yesterday and gusset material arrived today. I'm thisc
lose
o starting, except I really need a board planer. Engine's getting clean.
I'm
inally on the move.
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296210#296210
========================
===========
-= - The Pietenpol-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
========================
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol airframe how many hours can it take? |
| From: | "dgaldrich" <dgaldrich(at)embarqmail.com> |
Yes Jack, you remembered correctly about Douwe's Piet. His ribs exhibited the
same issues as Carrie's UPF-7. A sharp knife would separate the gussets. Several
of us took a critical look at both his wing and rudder at SnF. The rudder
seemed to be assembled with the same kind of glue as the ribs BUT you couldn't
pry the plywood gussets off it with a jackhammer. We tried to take them off
and they exhibited the correct characteristics---the wood failed and the glue
was still there. The question unanswered was why the different behavior. Two
conjectures were reasonable -- 1) The glue was prepared/applied incorrectly
(temperature, clamping pressure, mixture, etc.) and 2) the wood was prepared
differently. This leads up to the discussion of sanding plywood as a prep for
glue. Also the plywood rib gussets may have had some wax on them from the production
process (they were thinner stock) that wasn't removed or was of different
wood. The whole episode actually raised more questions than answers.
Dave
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296337#296337
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: construction and glue |
Dan,
Did you leave the ends of the cross-pieces square? I seem to remember
reading in a Bingelis book that it's OK to not mitre fit the ends of the
rib cross-pieces square, but I can't seem to find that passage, now.
On a similar note, looking at the full size rib drawing, it calls for a
1/2"x1/2" piece for the nose of the rib - the piece that the LE gets
screwed/glued to. Is it OK to use something like white pine for this
piece instead of spruce or doug fir?
Thanks,
Dan
On 04/30/2010 06:39 PM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
> Hi Steve,
> Personally I would not be too worried about sanding the ends of the rib
> pieces to fit the jig. The strength of the rib is mostly going to be
> derived from the face of the gusset against the side of the rib stick
> members. Those surfaces are typically not sanded.
> Dan Helsper
> Poplar Grove, IL.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: schuerrman <sdschuerr(at)live.com>
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thu, Apr 29, 2010 5:59 pm
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: construction and glue
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "schuerrman">
>
> I've made the rib jig, and I realize that sanding softwood is not recommended,
> so do you start with the larger pieces and just keep trying, trimming to smaller
> pieces until you get it right? Has anyone had excellent results with sanding
to
> fit? Glue arrived yesterday and gusset material arrived today. I'm thisclose
> to starting, except I really need a board planer. Engine's getting clean. I'm
> finally on the move.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296210#296210
>
>
> ===================================
> t" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> ===================================
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
> _blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: construction and glue |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
Courtesy of Tony B
On Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 8:31 PM, Dan Yocum wrote:
>
> Dan,
>
> Did you leave the ends of the cross-pieces square? I seem to remember
> reading in a Bingelis book that it's OK to not mitre fit the ends of the rib
> cross-pieces square, but I can't seem to find that passage, now.
>
> On a similar note, looking at the full size rib drawing, it calls for a
> 1/2"x1/2" piece for the nose of the rib - the piece that the LE gets
> screwed/glued to. Is it OK to use something like white pine for this piece
> instead of spruce or doug fir?
>
> Thanks,
> Dan
>
>
> On 04/30/2010 06:39 PM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
>
>> Hi Steve,
>> Personally I would not be too worried about sanding the ends of the rib
>> pieces to fit the jig. The strength of the rib is mostly going to be
>> derived from the face of the gusset against the side of the rib stick
>> members. Those surfaces are typically not sanded.
>> Dan Helsper
>> Poplar Grove, IL.
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: schuerrman <sdschuerr(at)live.com>
>> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>> Sent: Thu, Apr 29, 2010 5:59 pm
>> Subject: Pietenpol-List: construction and glue
>>
>> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "schuerrman"> sdschuerr(at)live.com>>
>>
>> I've made the rib jig, and I realize that sanding softwood is not
>> recommended,
>> so do you start with the larger pieces and just keep trying, trimming to
>> smaller
>> pieces until you get it right? Has anyone had excellent results with
>> sanding to
>> fit? Glue arrived yesterday and gusset material arrived today. I'm
>> thisclose
>> to starting, except I really need a board planer. Engine's getting clean.
>> I'm
>> finally on the move.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296210#296210
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ===================================
>> t" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
>> ===================================
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> ===================================
>> _blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ===================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>
> --
> Dan Yocum
> Fermilab 630.840.6509
> yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
> "I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: checking for deer on the runway/ groundhog holes |
It's mine. If you look closely you can see my signature at the bottom
of the fence line between the cows.
Clif
> I love the pic though, obviously a Model A Piet. Is that from our
> site? If so, I missed it previously.
> Tim in central TX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: construction and glue |
Both. They work well cleaning off old glue. If it's lumpy I would start
carefully
with a file to get it close to the wood, and flat. Then finish off with a
scraper.
Clif
> Cliff, I'm just getting ready to begin cutting gussets for my ribs then
> glue. Are you using the shapers to prep the area prior to glueing or is
> this tool used to clean and prepare the gusset area that HAD once been
> glued? Greg Menoche DE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: First Passenger Ride today! |
Oh no! does this mean I have to have a periscope too!
Clif
Just think about Charles Lindbergh. He had NO forward vision
whatsoever.
Dan Helsper
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <catdesigns(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | construction and glue |
Dan Asked
"On a similar note, looking at the full size rib drawing, it calls for a
1/2"x1/2" piece for the nose of the rib - the piece that the LE gets
screwed/glued to. Is it OK to use something like white pine for this piece
instead of spruce or doug fir?
Thanks,
Dan"
Dan,
I simply stacked two pieces of the 1/4"x1/2" spruce to make the 1/2"x1/2".
Chris
Sacramento, Ca
Westcoastpiet.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Yocum
Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 6:31 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: construction and glue
Dan,
Did you leave the ends of the cross-pieces square? I seem to remember
reading in a Bingelis book that it's OK to not mitre fit the ends of the rib
cross-pieces square, but I can't seem to find that passage, now.
On a similar note, looking at the full size rib drawing, it calls for a
1/2"x1/2" piece for the nose of the rib - the piece that the LE gets
screwed/glued to. Is it OK to use something like white pine for this piece
instead of spruce or doug fir?
Thanks,
Dan
On 04/30/2010 06:39 PM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
> Hi Steve,
> Personally I would not be too worried about sanding the ends of the
> rib pieces to fit the jig. The strength of the rib is mostly going to
> be derived from the face of the gusset against the side of the rib
> stick members. Those surfaces are typically not sanded.
> Dan Helsper
> Poplar Grove, IL.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: schuerrman <sdschuerr(at)live.com>
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thu, Apr 29, 2010 5:59 pm
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: construction and glue
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "schuerrman" --> >
>
> I've made the rib jig, and I realize that sanding softwood is not
> recommended, so do you start with the larger pieces and just keep
> trying, trimming to smaller pieces until you get it right? Has anyone had
excellent results with sanding to
> fit? Glue arrived yesterday and gusset material arrived today. I'm
thisclose
> to starting, except I really need a board planer. Engine's getting
> clean. I'm finally on the move.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296210#296210
>
>
> ===================================
> t" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> ===================================
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
> _blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov "I fly because it releases my mind
from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: construction and glue |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
Or rip a Home Depot hand rail (as recommended by Mr. Cuy in the archives).
rick
On Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 9:00 PM, Chris wrote:
>
> Dan Asked
> "On a similar note, looking at the full size rib drawing, it calls for a
> 1/2"x1/2" piece for the nose of the rib - the piece that the LE gets
> screwed/glued to. Is it OK to use something like white pine for this piece
> instead of spruce or doug fir?
> Thanks,
> Dan"
>
>
> Dan,
>
> I simply stacked two pieces of the 1/4"x1/2" spruce to make the 1/2"x1/2".
>
> Chris
> Sacramento, Ca
> Westcoastpiet.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Yocum
> Sent: Friday, April 30, 2010 6:31 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: construction and glue
>
>
> Dan,
>
> Did you leave the ends of the cross-pieces square? I seem to remember
> reading in a Bingelis book that it's OK to not mitre fit the ends of the
> rib
> cross-pieces square, but I can't seem to find that passage, now.
>
> On a similar note, looking at the full size rib drawing, it calls for a
> 1/2"x1/2" piece for the nose of the rib - the piece that the LE gets
> screwed/glued to. Is it OK to use something like white pine for this piece
> instead of spruce or doug fir?
>
> Thanks,
> Dan
>
>
> On 04/30/2010 06:39 PM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
> > Hi Steve,
> > Personally I would not be too worried about sanding the ends of the
> > rib pieces to fit the jig. The strength of the rib is mostly going to
> > be derived from the face of the gusset against the side of the rib
> > stick members. Those surfaces are typically not sanded.
> > Dan Helsper
> > Poplar Grove, IL.
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: schuerrman <sdschuerr(at)live.com>
> > To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> > Sent: Thu, Apr 29, 2010 5:59 pm
> > Subject: Pietenpol-List: construction and glue
> >
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "schuerrman" > --> >
> >
> > I've made the rib jig, and I realize that sanding softwood is not
> > recommended, so do you start with the larger pieces and just keep
> > trying, trimming to smaller pieces until you get it right? Has anyone
> had
> excellent results with sanding to
> > fit? Glue arrived yesterday and gusset material arrived today. I'm
> thisclose
> > to starting, except I really need a board planer. Engine's getting
> > clean. I'm finally on the move.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296210#296210
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ===================================
> > t" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> > ===================================
> > tp://forums.matronics.com
> > ===================================
> > _blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> > ===================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > *
> >
> >
> > *
>
> --
> Dan Yocum
> Fermilab 630.840.6509
> yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov "I fly because it releases my
> mind
> from the tyranny of petty things."
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol airframe how many hours can it take? |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Prop-carving expert and Guru Jerry Thornhill has used Weldwood Plastic Res
in Glue during all his years of prop building. I also used it on mine. The
advantage over T-88 is the lower viscosity and ability to spread easily
over a large area quickly.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: dgaldrich <dgaldrich(at)embarqmail.com>
Sent: Fri, Apr 30, 2010 8:04 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Pietenpol airframe how many hours can it take
?
m>
Yes Jack, you remembered correctly about Douwe's Piet. His ribs exhibited
the
ame issues as Carrie's UPF-7. A sharp knife would separate the gussets.
everal of us took a critical look at both his wing and rudder at SnF. The
udder seemed to be assembled with the same kind of glue as the ribs BUT yo
u
ouldn't pry the plywood gussets off it with a jackhammer. We tried to tak
e
hem off and they exhibited the correct characteristics---the wood failed
and
he glue was still there. The question unanswered was why the different
ehavior. Two conjectures were reasonable -- 1) The glue was prepared/appl
ied
ncorrectly (temperature, clamping pressure, mixture, etc.) and 2) the wood
was
repared differently. This leads up to the discussion of sanding plywood
as a
rep for glue. Also the plywood rib gussets may have had some wax on them
from
he production process (they were thinner stock) that wasn't removed or was
of
ifferent wood. The whole episode actually raised more q!
uestions than answers.
Dave
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296337#296337
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: construction and glue |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Dan,
I would guess that it probably would be OK to square cut the rib sticks,
as long as there was plenty of gluing surface on the gussets. As far as
that 1/2 x 1/2 nose piece goes, pine wouldn't scare me either. (not a rec
ommendation to buy or sell securities) :o)
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov>
Sent: Fri, Apr 30, 2010 8:31 pm
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: construction and glue
Dan,
Did you leave the ends of the cross-pieces square? I seem to remember read
ing in a Bingelis book that it's OK to not mitre fit the ends of the rib
cross-pieces square, but I can't seem to find that passage, now.
On a similar note, looking at the full size rib drawing, it calls for a 1/
2"x1/2" piece for the nose of the rib - the piece that the LE gets screwed
/glued to. Is it OK to use something like white pine for this piece instea
d of spruce or doug fir?
Thanks,
Dan
On 04/30/2010 06:39 PM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
> Hi Steve,
> Personally I would not be too worried about sanding the ends of the rib
> pieces to fit the jig. The strength of the rib is mostly going to be
> derived from the face of the gusset against the side of the rib stick
> members. Those surfaces are typically not sanded.
> Dan Helsper
> Poplar Grove, IL.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: schuerrman <sdschuerr(at)live.com>
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thu, Apr 29, 2010 5:59 pm
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: construction and glue
>
ailto:sdschuerr(at)live.com>>
>
> I've made the rib jig, and I realize that sanding softwood is not recomm
ended,
> so do you start with the larger pieces and just keep trying, trimming to
smaller
> pieces until you get it right? Has anyone had excellent results with san
ding to
> fit? Glue arrived yesterday and gusset material arrived today. I'm thisc
lose
> to starting, except I really need a board planer. Engine's getting clean
. I'm
> finally on the move.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296210#296210
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ========================
============
> t" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> ========================
============
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> ========================
============
> _blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ========================
============
>
>
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
-- Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
========================
============
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Aluminum cabane insert material |
| From: | "Speedbrake" <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
I believe I have my posting woes fixed, so I am trying this again.
I am using aluminum cabanes and am curious if a hard wood, (oak/ash) would be suitable
for the inserts. I know most use some type of steel or aluminum, but since
the fittings attach to soft spruce and ply wood gussets on the fuselage end,
why not wood inside the cabanes?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=296389#296389
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Egan <johnegan99(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | motor mount dimensions? |
Builders,=0A=0AI am building a long fuselage Aircamper, straight axle gear
with wire wheels,-a J-3 fuel tank in the nose, and a 65 hp Continental en
gine with a wood prop.- =0A=0ADo you guys recall the length of your motor
mount, and would you share any weight and balance infomation? =0A=0AYes, I
'll complete-a real w&b before flight.=0AI realize no two are the same, h
owever I am interested in seeing the-data.=0AI see BHP's plans call out
- an 11-3/16" long mount.=0A=0Athanks all,=0A=0Ajohn egan=0AGreenville, W
I=0Aneed to make a motor mount=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | motor mount dimensions? |
John, I built my engine mount to BHP's plans for the A65 Continental. Here
is the W&B spreadsheet that I used. You can modify it to fit your own
dimentions and weights.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Egan
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 5:16 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: motor mount dimensions?
Builders,
I am building a long fuselage Aircamper, straight axle gear with wire
wheels, a J-3 fuel tank in the nose, and a 65 hp Continental engine with a
wood prop.
Do you guys recall the length of your motor mount, and would you share any
weight and balance infomation?
Yes, I'll complete a real w&b before flight.
I realize no two are the same, however I am interested in seeing the data.
I see BHP's plans call out an 11-3/16" long mount.
April 19, 2010 - May 01, 2010
Pietenpol-Archive.digest.vol-jd