Pietenpol-Archive.digest.vol-ji
June 28, 2010 - July 07, 2010
Rick
----- Original Message -----
Sent: 6/28/2010 6:03:02 PM
| Subject: | Re: Dan Helspers Milestone |
I missed Bill Knight at the waco fly-in, because they banned us lowly outsiders
(non waco club members) from the fly-in. I always liked seeing them over at
wynkoop, Bill, Tom Brown (the Brown Aero Aircamper with corvair). Bill was kind
enough to trade some rides in his waco, for some photos of his UPF7 next to
Dad's 1932 1 ton ford truck.
Shad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Pro-Seal or Chem Seal |
Does anyone know if paint will bond to CS 3204?
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(20 ribs down.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack" <jack(at)textors.com> |
I would appreciate any thoughts, good bad or ugly regarding my panel layout.
It can be seen here http://textors.com/IMG_4572_640x427.jpg . Transponder
will be ala JP in the center section. Intercom integrated in the
transceiver, right side. The rectangles at the bottom are (L to R)
Switches, starter pull, circuit breakers. I plan to move the starter pull
to the far left or underneath the panel to make it easier to route the cable
to the starter. Carb-heat, throttle and compass are not shown.
Suggest-away!
Thanks,
Jack
DSM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Layout |
Jack,
Since you asked...
I like my ASI top center, where your turn and bank is now. I don't
think a full-blown turn and bank is needed in a Piet - I mounted a
small slip indicator on top of the instrument panel, on the cowling.
I got mine from Wicks for $26, part#B1114-2 but I don't see it at
their website now. This puts the slip indicator and ASI right in
front of my face, centered.
I'd put the tach where the ASI is now, move the oil temp and pressure
right up next to the tach - they're more important than the voltmeter
and this clusters your engine instruments.
Clock sure is handy, but does it need to be 3-1/8'? I think a VSI is
more interesting; wish I had one.
I like the com up high where you can see it. Sometimes I struggle to
see if I've tuned the correct frequency because mine is too low and
to the side.
Well, like the body's evacuation chute surrounded by an annular
muscle, everyone has an opinion!
Jeff
>I would appreciate any thoughts, good bad or ugly regarding my panel layout.
>It can be seen here http://textors.com/IMG_4572_640x427.jpg . Transponder
>will be ala JP in the center section. Intercom integrated in the
>transceiver, right side. The rectangles at the bottom are (L to R)
>Switches, starter pull, circuit breakers. I plan to move the starter pull
>to the far left or underneath the panel to make it easier to route the cable
>to the starter. Carb-heat, throttle and compass are not shown.
>Suggest-away!
>Thanks,
>Jack
>DSM
--
---
Jeffrey H. Boatright, Ph.D.
Associate Professor of Ophthalmology
Emory University School of Medicine
Editor-in-Chief
Molecular Vision
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Denver area parts |
| From: | "skellytown flyer" <skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com> |
do any of you know whether there may be any aircraft salvages in the Lamar to Denver
area? I have to take a load of equipment up from Texas across southeast
Colorado area to Aurora. if I thought there was anyone along the route that might
have some old 6" wheels and brakes that might work on my gear legs for sale
worth the money I'd sure be interested in checking them out.I'll likely stay
overnight somewhere around Lamar anyway. it's a long trip up and back. Raymond
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=302933#302933
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Panel Layout |
| From: | "ldmill" <lorin.miller(at)emerson.com> |
HI Jack,
I just wired in my XCOM into the Waiex. After running about 30 wires - I really
wish I would have gone with a handheld like my GN has! It literally took me
a month to get all the push to talk switches/headset/mic/power/etc wires built
and in place. I use my wristwatch for time. The one thing I wish I did have
in my GN is a Vertical Speed indicator. I'd like to see just how well my prop
is performing with the A-75. The two instruments I look at most while flying
N30PP is the tach and ASI. Next is the CHT (4 channel) My slip indicator is right
at top of panel and I've been using it to fine-tune the rudder trim tab.
Pics of my Piet panel are on Westcoastpiet.com. It's very simple and I was comfortable
with it after the first flight.
Lorin
Colo, Iowa
--------
Lorin Miller
Waiex N81YX
GN-1 N30PP
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=302940#302940
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Model A experiance |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Hi Shad,
Thank you for the advice. I am open to listening to ANY ideas about this.
As a matter of fact, I heard through another person that Bill Knight thou
ght that my problem was as you surmise, a tight new engine. At this point
I am guessing that it was either ice, or tight bearings. But the thing is
I could not duplicate any probs on the ground. But then again I never ran
it that hard or long on the ground. So I am going to try to improve my ca
rb heat system, and as the time passes the engine will get broken in. I am
almost sure I will make Brodhead safely, but I will keep my head and not
go if I feel unsafe. It is not worth it. See you soon I hope.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Mon, Jun 28, 2010 6:15 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Model A experiance
Dan, I am far from a model a expert, But I have had some exposure to drivi
ng an old 1932 1/2 ford model a 1 ton truck. It does have a v-8 which is
not the same engine. If the engine gets hot it can vapor lock easily at
idle, just had it happen to me on friday night while dad was flying (of
corse with your gravity feed that should not be an issue). If you engine
is getting hot, and tight , that prop has much less inertia than a model
a flywheel does, keep you approaches high, and if possible do some longer
flights to help her break in. I don't claim to know as much as the model
a fling piet guys, but listen to the experianced old timers, most of them
know their stuff. Be patient, and if you need more ground/break in time
take it, and don't get pressured in to "having" to make Brodhead, it will
be there next year if you don't get there this year. I wish you the best
of luck, congradulations, and congrats on that 1st dead stick! (butt tigh
tening isn't it?).
Shad
========================
===========
-= - The Pietenpol-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
========================
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | my new engine arrived! |
Ryan wrote-
>If you're going to go for the British look you'll
>have to find yourself a set of Roll-Royce O-200
>valve covers! :)
When I began assembling parts for the A75 that is now
on my airplane, I went looking for a matched set of
valve covers since it had a mixed set of newer and
older ones. I passed up a set of Rolls-Royce ones
because that wasn't what I was looking for. I found
mine on eBay... keep looking and be patient.
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
Jack: panel layout is going to be a very personal thing
so I won't offer any suggestions different from what you've
already seen here. Just two comments: (1), I have a VSI in
41CC and never look at it... seat of the pants seems to
work just as well; (2) consider that the aileron cables
cross inside the top cowl where the backs of the instruments
are, and make sure you won't have interference between the
instruments and the cables. Deeper instruments, or those
with hoses or cables coming out the back (like the tach)
need to be checked in particular.
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
Jack,
I disagree with Jeff about the T&B. I like having one (and it has saved my
butt once when I got a little closer to clouds than I intended and had what
seemed like about 2 minutes of actual IFR while I executed a 180 to get back
in the clear). If you have a T&B, I think the center is the best place for
it
I agree with him that that a clock is not worth the panel space (with a
Pietenpol, if you need to tell time you should use a calendar). I have a
VSI where your clock is and find it very useful to see how slowly you are
climbing.
Two other comments. Where is your compass? And if you put your GPS that
low, you are going to be flying "head down" a lot during cross countrys. My
GPS is mounted on the upper right longeron at about the same height as yours
and I wish it were higher. Remember that a Piet's instrument panel if VERY
close to the pilot and looking at any instrument for very long requires
significant downward vision angle.
Otherwise it looks good. Looking forward to seeing it at Brodhead someday.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Boatright
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 9:41 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Panel Layout
Jack,
Since you asked...
I like my ASI top center, where your turn and bank is now. I don't
think a full-blown turn and bank is needed in a Piet - I mounted a
small slip indicator on top of the instrument panel, on the cowling.
I got mine from Wicks for $26, part#B1114-2 but I don't see it at
their website now. This puts the slip indicator and ASI right in
front of my face, centered.
I'd put the tach where the ASI is now, move the oil temp and pressure
right up next to the tach - they're more important than the voltmeter
and this clusters your engine instruments.
Clock sure is handy, but does it need to be 3-1/8'? I think a VSI is
more interesting; wish I had one.
I like the com up high where you can see it. Sometimes I struggle to
see if I've tuned the correct frequency because mine is too low and
to the side.
Well, like the body's evacuation chute surrounded by an annular
muscle, everyone has an opinion!
Jeff
>I would appreciate any thoughts, good bad or ugly regarding my panel
layout.
>It can be seen here http://textors.com/IMG_4572_640x427.jpg . Transponder
>will be ala JP in the center section. Intercom integrated in the
>transceiver, right side. The rectangles at the bottom are (L to R)
>Switches, starter pull, circuit breakers. I plan to move the starter pull
>to the far left or underneath the panel to make it easier to route the
cable
>to the starter. Carb-heat, throttle and compass are not shown.
>Suggest-away!
>Thanks,
>Jack
>DSM
--
---
Jeffrey H. Boatright, Ph.D.
Associate Professor of Ophthalmology
Emory University School of Medicine
Editor-in-Chief
Molecular Vision
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Markle <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Layout |
I think I would put all the engine stuff together. Move the oil pressure and oil
temp together. My opinion on such matters has NO experience behind it...just
makes more sense to me to look in an area and see all of whatever relates to
one type of "issue".....
jm
-----Original Message-----
>From: Jack <jack(at)textors.com>
>Sent: Jun 28, 2010 8:57 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Panel Layout
>
>I would appreciate any thoughts, good bad or ugly regarding my panel layout.
>It can be seen here http://textors.com/IMG_4572_640x427.jpg . Transponder
>will be ala JP in the center section. Intercom integrated in the
>transceiver, right side. The rectangles at the bottom are (L to R)
>Switches, starter pull, circuit breakers. I plan to move the starter pull
>to the far left or underneath the panel to make it easier to route the cable
>to the starter. Carb-heat, throttle and compass are not shown.
>Suggest-away!
>Thanks,
>Jack
>DSM
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Panel Layout |
| From: | "coxwelljon" <coxwelljon(at)frontiernet.net> |
Jack,
The comments provided are all good ones especially from those that have flying
airplanes. As said before the panel layout is a personal preference.
I would add this. Go to the aviation magazines and cut out or copy pictures of
actual instrument faces and place them in the locations you have selected.
Then get some seat time, get in and make whirring noises, lean left and right,
look out over the nose and make a landing or two while continuing a scan of the
instruments. Try to imagine some unusual attitudes, a snap roll or loop and
figure out what information you are going to need to make a safe recovery. Put
the plane in 3 point and level flight attitude and see what difference it makes.
Lastly be sure to log your time and count your landings.
Jon Coxwell
--------
Jon Coxwell
GN-1 Builder
Recycle and preserve the planet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=302992#302992
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Newby coming to Brodhead |
| From: | "Dale McCleskey" <dale.mccleskey(at)lifeway.com> |
OK John and Mark, I can tell I've done got myself mixed up with a fun bunch.
John, my wife, Cheryl just isn't an aviation enthusiast, so won't even be coming,
and yet she insists on restricting my dating life, so yes. As far as I'm concerned,
you can have the women though I think they may have something to say
about it all. As for Brodhead, I can't wait, but I've got to refresh my cross
country navigarion skills.
--------
Dale McCleskey
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=302993#302993
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Newby coming to Brodhead |
Dale,
If you can get your wife a ride in a Piet, or some other open cockpit
airplane, she'll start to come around. Mine is slowly, but surely,
becoming more embracing of my mistress at the airport. It helps that
the kids are interested in the plane and flying, too.
She hardly cringed at all, and didn't even look for a large, heavy
object to throw at me, when she heard what it's going to cost to get the
#4 cylinder repaired on my Piet.
Cheers,
Dan
On 06/29/2010 10:48 AM, Dale McCleskey wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Dale McCleskey"
>
> OK John and Mark, I can tell I've done got myself mixed up with a fun bunch.
> John, my wife, Cheryl just isn't an aviation enthusiast, so won't even be coming,
and yet she insists on restricting my dating life, so yes. As far as I'm
concerned, you can have the women though I think they may have something to say
about it all. As for Brodhead, I can't wait, but I've got to refresh my cross
country navigarion skills.
>
> --------
> Dale McCleskey
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=302993#302993
>
>
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Denver area parts |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
Duff is the only place I know of near I-70 and Quebec St. East of Denver.
Owned and run by the orneriest old geezer you ever met (already checked for
old J-3 wing struts with no luck but he may have some now).
http://www.jwduffaircraft.com/
On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 8:41 PM, skellytown flyer wrote:
> skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com>
>
> do any of you know whether there may be any aircraft salvages in the Lamar
> to Denver area? I have to take a load of equipment up from Texas across
> southeast Colorado area to Aurora. if I thought there was anyone along the
> route that might have some old 6" wheels and brakes that might work on my
> gear legs for sale worth the money I'd sure be interested in checking them
> out.I'll likely stay overnight somewhere around Lamar anyway. it's a long
> trip up and back. Raymond
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=302933#302933
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Newby coming to Brodhead |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
yocum137 wrote:
> Dale,
>
> If you can get your wife a ride in a Piet, or some other open cockpit
> airplane, she'll start to come around.
I'd have to second that idea.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Finishing up Wings - Working on Center Section
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303008#303008
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | H RULE <harvey.rule(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Layout |
If there is a problem with space;the ultralight instruments are shorter.Som
etimes they combine two different- instruments in one such as CHT (cylind
er head temp.)and EHT(exhaust head temp.).Now you may not need such things
on a four cycle machine but I feel the more info you have coming from it th
e better.Just my take on the matter.As for set up,I agree that your own per
sonal happiness with what you want is-the best.The way you have it now ma
y be just the way you want it. --=0A=0A=0A=0A__________________________
______=0AFrom: Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>=0ATo: Pietenpol List <p
ietenpol-list(at)matronics.com>=0ASent: Tue, June 29, 2010 8:40:18 AM=0ASubjec
Oscar Zuniga =0A=0A=0AJack: panel layout is going to
be a very personal thing=0Aso I won't offer any suggestions different from
what you've=0Aalready seen here.- Just two comments: (1), I have a VSI i
n=0A41CC and never look at it... seat of the pants seems to=0Awork just as
well; (2) consider that the aileron cables=0Across inside the top cowl wher
e the backs of the instruments=0Aare, and make sure you won't have interfer
ence between the=0Ainstruments and the cables.- Deeper instruments, or th
ose=0Awith hoses or cables coming out the back (like the tach)=0Aneed to be
checked in particular.=0A=0AOscar Zuniga=0AAir Camper NX41CC=0ASan Antonio
, TX=0Amailto: taildrags@hotmail.com=0Awebsite at http://www.flysquirrel.ne
============
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "echobravo4" <eab4(at)comcast.net> |
in an effort to break up the monotony of little stick cutting- i decided to
cut all the pieces for a complete rib and build one. only 29 more!
after i finish cutting all those little plywood pieces!
--------
Earl Brown
I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I
intended to be.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303041#303041
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/1strib_123.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Earl,
That is precisely how I completed my airplane. Just strive to complete the
next piece, whatever it is. Whenever you can. Keep on plugging.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: echobravo4 <eab4(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Tue, Jun 29, 2010 7:16 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: One Down!
in an effort to break up the monotony of little stick cutting- i decided
to
ut all the pieces for a complete rib and build one. only 29 more!
fter i finish cutting all those little plywood pieces!
--------
arl Brown
I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up wh
ere I
ntended to be.
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303041#303041
ttachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/1strib_123.jpg
-========================
========================
===========
-= - The Pietenpol-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
========================
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allan Macklem" <awmacklem(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: First flight! 1st dead stick landing...... ever |
=======AVGMAIL-26D976A0=======--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Panel Layout |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
Or if you are really hurting for space you can have all your engine
instruments in one 3 1/4" hole.
rick
On Tue, Jun 29, 2010 at 12:47 PM, H RULE wrote:
> If there is a problem with space;the ultralight instruments are
> shorter.Sometimes they combine two different instruments in one such as CHT
> (cylinder head temp.)and EHT(exhaust head temp.).Now you may not need such
> things on a four cycle machine but I feel the more info you have coming from
> it the better.Just my take on the matter.As for set up,I agree that your own
> personal happiness with what you want is the best.The way you have it now
> may be just the way you want it.
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Oscar Zuniga
> *To:* Pietenpol List
> *Sent:* Tue, June 29, 2010 8:40:18 AM
> *Subject:* Pietenpol-List: Panel Layout
>
>
> Jack: panel layout is going to be a very personal thing
> so I won't offer any suggestions different from what you've
> already seen here. Just two comments: (1), I have a VSI in
> 41CC and never look at it... seat of the pants seems to
> work just as well; (2) consider that the aileron cables
> cross inside the top cowl where the backs of the instruments
> are, and make sure you won't have interference between the
> instruments and the cables. Deeper instruments, or those
> with hoses or cables coming out the back (like the tach)
> need to be checked in particular.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Air Camper NX41CC
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net href="
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List" target=_blank;
> -Matt Dralle, Listion" ======
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Big Piet meets little Piet |
I hope to have pictures later this summer of my
(Corky's) airplane side-by-side with a 50% scale
model of NX41CC. The model is being built here
in TX and will be powered by a 20HP motor. Yes,
the wingspan is 15 ft. and the chord is 30".
A gentleman (obviously, a model builder) was so
taken with 41CC that he just had to build a model
of it. I've seen some of the rest of his collection
and he builds FABULOUS ones. Some really amazing,
flying, RC models.
Stay tuned. And if it can be safely done, we
may just have to do a formation flight ;o) Talk
about disconcerting the masses; wait till we fly
in to the airport together and some unsuspecting
observer gets a glimpse-!
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
And a real nice Pietenpol model hanging from the ceiling. The fun is just
beginning.
rick
On Tue, Jun 29, 2010 at 6:16 PM, echobravo4 wrote:
>
> in an effort to break up the monotony of little stick cutting- i decided to
> cut all the pieces for a complete rib and build one. only 29 more!
> after i finish cutting all those little plywood pieces!
>
> --------
> Earl Brown
>
> I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up
> where I intended to be.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303041#303041
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/1strib_123.jpg
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kringle" <Mrkringles(at)msn.com> |
That's one more than I have built! Keep on keepin on.
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303055#303055
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Denver area parts |
| From: | "skellytown flyer" <skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com> |
Thanks Rick. I should have asked earlier.I made it to the place I needed to drop
off the parts directly north of the Air bas and started home-got as far as Springfield
before shutting down for the night.I will see about calling him anyway
thanks to the link.appreciate it. Raymond
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303056#303056
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | H RULE <harvey.rule(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Layout |
It's not the number of instruments on the panel for space he was concerned
about.He is concerned about the length of the instruments going behide the
panel.How far in it travels before it hits the control cables.The ultraligh
t instuments are very short.Only 1" or 1 1/2-" long compared to 3 or 4 in
ches.-Just a word of advice;while building your instrument panel I would
have it at an angle,further out at the bottom and further in at the top so
it is easy to see when flying.I am going to have to modify mine.I can't see
half the instruments unless I bend over or slunk down in the seat.=0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Rick Holland <at7000ft@gm
ail.com>=0ATo: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Tue, June 29, 2010 9:08
:22 PM=0ASubject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Panel Layout=0A=0AOr if you are reall
y hurting for space you can have all your engine instruments in one 3 1/4"
hole.=0A=0Arick=0A=0A=0AOn Tue, Jun 29, 2010 at 12:47 PM, H RULE wrote:=0A=0AIf there is a problem with space;the ultralight
instruments are shorter.Sometimes they combine two different- instruments
in one such as CHT (cylinder head temp.)and EHT(exhaust head temp.).Now yo
u may not need such things on a four cycle machine but I feel the more info
you have coming from it the better.Just my take on the matter.As for set u
p,I agree that your own personal happiness with what you want is-the best
.The way you have it now may be just the way you want it. --=0A>=0A>=0A
>=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Oscar Zuniga <taildrags@hotmai
l.com>=0A>To: Pietenpol List =0A>Sent: Tue, J
une 29, 2010 8:40:18 AM=0A>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Panel Layout=0A>=0A>-->
Pietenpol-List message posted by: Oscar Zuniga =0A>
=0A>=0A>Jack: panel layout is going to be a very personal thing=0A>so I won
't offer any suggestions different from what you've=0A>already seen here.
- Just two comments: (1), I have a VSI in=0A>41CC and never look at it...
seat of the pants seems to=0A>work just as well; (2) consider that the ail
eron cables=0A>cross inside the top cowl where the backs of the instruments
=0A>are, and make sure you won't have interference between the=0A>instrumen
ts and the cables.- Deeper instruments, or those=0A>with hoses or cables
coming out the back (like the tach)=0A>need to be checked in particular.=0A
>=0A>Oscar Zuniga=0A>Air Camper NX41CC=0A>San Antonio, TX=0A>mailto: taildr
ags@hotmail.com=0A>website at http://www.flysquirrel.net --- --
- --- href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List" ta
rget=_blank; - - - - - - - - -Matt Dralle, Listion" =
=======0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>" target="_blank">http://ww
w.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List=0A>tp://forums.matronics.com=0A>_b
lank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A>=0A>=0A=0A=0A-- =0ARick Holl
and=0ACastle Rock, Colorado=0A=0A"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that
smell bad" =0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack" <jack(at)textors.com> |
Great comments all, and very helpful, thanks! I'm going to make some noises
next time I sit in the cockpit! Not sure on compass location, probably on
top of the cowling. I have a calendar on the PDA so who needs a clock!
Actually, I planned to use it because I have it. It's the only antique
"gauge" on the panel. It's an old Russian chronograph that keeps great
time. I lengthened the enclosure (one inch)to allow room for the turn and
bank but I'm going back to drawing table to refine the layout to be sure
everything clears those aileron cables.
Thanks,
Jack
DSM
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jack
Phillips
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 2010 7:19 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Panel Layout
Jack,
I disagree with Jeff about the T&B. I like having one (and it has saved my
butt once when I got a little closer to clouds than I intended and had what
seemed like about 2 minutes of actual IFR while I executed a 180 to get back
in the clear). If you have a T&B, I think the center is the best place for
it
I agree with him that that a clock is not worth the panel space (with a
Pietenpol, if you need to tell time you should use a calendar). I have a
VSI where your clock is and find it very useful to see how slowly you are
climbing.
Two other comments. Where is your compass? And if you put your GPS that
low, you are going to be flying "head down" a lot during cross countrys. My
GPS is mounted on the upper right longeron at about the same height as yours
and I wish it were higher. Remember that a Piet's instrument panel if VERY
close to the pilot and looking at any instrument for very long requires
significant downward vision angle.
Otherwise it looks good. Looking forward to seeing it at Brodhead someday.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Boatright
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 9:41 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Panel Layout
Jack,
Since you asked...
I like my ASI top center, where your turn and bank is now. I don't
think a full-blown turn and bank is needed in a Piet - I mounted a
small slip indicator on top of the instrument panel, on the cowling.
I got mine from Wicks for $26, part#B1114-2 but I don't see it at
their website now. This puts the slip indicator and ASI right in
front of my face, centered.
I'd put the tach where the ASI is now, move the oil temp and pressure
right up next to the tach - they're more important than the voltmeter
and this clusters your engine instruments.
Clock sure is handy, but does it need to be 3-1/8'? I think a VSI is
more interesting; wish I had one.
I like the com up high where you can see it. Sometimes I struggle to
see if I've tuned the correct frequency because mine is too low and
to the side.
Well, like the body's evacuation chute surrounded by an annular
muscle, everyone has an opinion!
Jeff
>I would appreciate any thoughts, good bad or ugly regarding my panel
layout.
>It can be seen here http://textors.com/IMG_4572_640x427.jpg . Transponder
>will be ala JP in the center section. Intercom integrated in the
>transceiver, right side. The rectangles at the bottom are (L to R)
>Switches, starter pull, circuit breakers. I plan to move the starter pull
>to the far left or underneath the panel to make it easier to route the
cable
>to the starter. Carb-heat, throttle and compass are not shown.
>Suggest-away!
>Thanks,
>Jack
>DSM
--
---
Jeffrey H. Boatright, Ph.D.
Associate Professor of Ophthalmology
Emory University School of Medicine
Editor-in-Chief
Molecular Vision
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Panel Layout |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
One thing that needs to be taken into consideration is if you plan to put
front seat harnesses in. Those brackets take up a lot of space.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack <jack(at)textors.com>
Sent: Wed, Jun 30, 2010 5:18 am
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Panel Layout
Great comments all, and very helpful, thanks! I'm going to make some nois
es
ext time I sit in the cockpit! Not sure on compass location, probably on
op of the cowling. I have a calendar on the PDA so who needs a clock!
ctually, I planned to use it because I have it. It's the only antique
gauge" on the panel. It's an old Russian chronograph that keeps great
ime. I lengthened the enclosure (one inch)to allow room for the turn and
ank but I'm going back to drawing table to refine the layout to be sure
verything clears those aileron cables.
hanks,
ack
SM
-----Original Message-----
rom: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jack
hillips
ent: Tuesday, June 29, 2010 7:19 AM
o: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
ubject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Panel Layout
pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Jack,
I disagree with Jeff about the T&B. I like having one (and it has saved
my
utt once when I got a little closer to clouds than I intended and had what
eemed like about 2 minutes of actual IFR while I executed a 180 to get bac
k
n the clear). If you have a T&B, I think the center is the best place for
t
I agree with him that that a clock is not worth the panel space (with a
ietenpol, if you need to tell time you should use a calendar). I have a
SI where your clock is and find it very useful to see how slowly you are
limbing.
Two other comments. Where is your compass? And if you put your GPS that
ow, you are going to be flying "head down" a lot during cross countrys.
My
PS is mounted on the upper right longeron at about the same height as your
s
nd I wish it were higher. Remember that a Piet's instrument panel if VERY
lose to the pilot and looking at any instrument for very long requires
ignificant downward vision angle.
Otherwise it looks good. Looking forward to seeing it at Brodhead someday
.
Jack Phillips
X899JP
aleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
rom: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
oatright
ent: Monday, June 28, 2010 9:41 PM
o: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
ubject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Panel Layout
Jack,
Since you asked...
I like my ASI top center, where your turn and bank is now. I don't
hink a full-blown turn and bank is needed in a Piet - I mounted a
mall slip indicator on top of the instrument panel, on the cowling.
got mine from Wicks for $26, part#B1114-2 but I don't see it at
heir website now. This puts the slip indicator and ASI right in
ront of my face, centered.
I'd put the tach where the ASI is now, move the oil temp and pressure
ight up next to the tach - they're more important than the voltmeter
nd this clusters your engine instruments.
Clock sure is handy, but does it need to be 3-1/8'? I think a VSI is
ore interesting; wish I had one.
I like the com up high where you can see it. Sometimes I struggle to
ee if I've tuned the correct frequency because mine is too low and
o the side.
Well, like the body's evacuation chute surrounded by an annular
uscle, everyone has an opinion!
Jeff
I would appreciate any thoughts, good bad or ugly regarding my panel
ayout.
It can be seen here http://textors.com/IMG_4572_640x427.jpg . Transponder
will be ala JP in the center section. Intercom integrated in the
transceiver, right side. The rectangles at the bottom are (L to R)
Switches, starter pull, circuit breakers. I plan to move the starter pull
to the far left or underneath the panel to make it easier to route the
able
to the starter. Carb-heat, throttle and compass are not shown.
Suggest-away!
Thanks,
Jack
DSM
-
--
Jeffrey H. Boatright, Ph.D.
ssociate Professor of Ophthalmology
mory University School of Medicine
ditor-in-Chief
olecular Vision
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Panel Layout-- NOW passenger shoulder harness assy. |
vs. instruments vs. windshiled vs. aileron cables-- out of room?
Good point, Dan. Fitting the instruments, the cables, and a windshield in there,
with my cabanes tilted back, is problematic enough. There is no room on
my Piet for a steel harness attachment mount. In fact, I will have to use fairleads
to very slightly route aileron cables to clear instruments.
Alternatively, back to harness, one can have a passenger shoulder harness attached
with cables, as Oscar, Bill Rewey, and others have done in different ways.
Tim in central TX
-----Original Message-----
From: helspersew(at)aol.com
Sent: Jun 30, 2010 5:43 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Panel Layout
One thing that needs to be taken into consideration is if you plan to put front
seat harnesses in. Those brackets take up a lot of space.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff wilson <jlwilsonnn(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Pro-Seal or Chem Seal |
I think it just depends on the paint and what is the solvent carrier. The
solvent in latex paint is water. It won't stick, but a VOC type solvent as
in lacqer or dope would probably work. On the other hand some solvents will
eat right thru and soften the underlying paint or chem seal. An oil based
paint may be a good choice to try and possibly polyurethane which is my per
sonal favorite.
Guess this is really no answer at all, just my thoughts.
Flyin low and slow.
Jeff Wilson
NX899WT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "echobravo4" <eab4(at)comcast.net> |
Gary-
i did notice that your signature now says 20 ribs not 18! [Laughing]
--------
Earl Brown
I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I
intended to be.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303086#303086
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Pro-Seal or Chem Seal |
Good thoughts, Jeff. I'll do some bond tests if I decide to go down that
path.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
20 ribs done
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff wilson
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 4:04 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Pro-Seal or Chem Seal
I think it just depends on the paint and what is the solvent carrier. The
solvent in latex paint is water. It won't stick, but a VOC type solvent as
in lacqer or dope would probably work. On the other hand some solvents will
eat right thru and soften the underlying paint or chem seal. An oil based
paint may be a good choice to try and possibly polyurethane which is my
personal favorite.
Guess this is really no answer at all, just my thoughts.
Flyin low and slow.
Jeff Wilson
NX899WT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
Beautiful work on that first rib!
I'd like to make a suggestion if I could. I know you said you wanted to break
up the monotony by making pieces for one rib at a time, but in order to make consistent
parts, and save time in the long run, I'd like to suggest that you fire
up that belt/disk sander I see in your photo and knock out all the parts in
batches.
I'm sure there are 1000 different ways to achieve the same goal, but I found it
to be beneficial to set up an assembly line with all the parts ready to assemble
and then just start banging them out. Again, this was just one approach,
but by making a master part for each diagonal, upright, gusset, etc. I was able
to lay those on the capstrip, mark the length and angles and rip out a batch
of parts in no time. I'd cut the capstrip with the band saw and shape the angles
on the disk sander. After a few days, I had all the parts I needed to complete
all the ribs. I just don't think it would be that efficient to stop, retool
and fabricate each piece as needed to complete a rib.
After all the parts were fabricated, I could build a rib in ~90 minutes using the
glue/nail technique. In addition... I have all of my master parts. If I needed
to construct another rib (or ribs), I could make them identical to the originals.
I know this isn't a race, I just like to make efficient use of my time. Enjoy
the process, and like Dan said... keep plugging.
The photos below only show a fraction of the parts I had to cut, but honestly,
once I made a nice fitting master part, duplicating it 30 times went really quick.
Then it is just a matter of assembly.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Finishing up Wings - Working on Center Section
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303103#303103
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/ribs1_153.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/gussets1_111.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
A couple more items... you mentioned "cutting all those little plywood pieces."
I would recommend making a nice fitting gusset for each location, rough cut
a stack of parts , trace the shape on the top piece and shape the whole stack
on the belt/disk sander. Seriously, there are nearly 1200 gussets in the wings...
don't make them individually. [Shocked]
Also, you are doing yourself a big favor by not adding the additional upright around
the spars. One upright on either side of the main spars (as per the drawing)
is sufficient. I read something about doing double uprights, which seemed
to make sense at the time, but it was a PITA when it came time to put the ribs
on the spars.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Finishing up Wings - Working on Center Section
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303108#303108
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TOM STINEMETZE" <TOMS(at)mcpcity.com> |
assembly.
>Mark Chouinard
I would like to echo Mark's comments. Once you have carefully created all
those little parts for one rib, just duplicate them and store in separate
piles for quick assembly later. If you don't have those fancy smancy
plastic hanging trays to store them in just use common plastic tubs that
once held butter, cottage cheese, guacamole, etc. My wife quickly saved
enough of those for me that I still have a couple dozen lying around the
shop. A second benefit is that you also will have all the lids that came
with those tubs and they are perfect for mixing T-88 in small batches.
One additional suggestion. Sand the glaze off your sheet of gusset
material before you cut out all the gussets! This will save you a lot of
sore fingertips if you have to do it later.
Tom Stinemetze
N328X
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kringle" <Mrkringles(at)msn.com> |
Stop it! I say stop it! All this talk about starting on ribs has me frothing
at the mouth. I don't have my plan or wood yet!
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303120#303120
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
Well! Just do it.
On Wed, Jun 30, 2010 at 9:42 AM, Kringle wrote:
>
> Stop it! I say stop it! All this talk about starting on ribs has me
> frothing at the mouth. I don't have my plan or wood yet!
>
> --------
> John
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303120#303120
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew VanDervort <matthew.vandervort(at)gmail.com> |
I could always use some help sanding :)
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 30, 2010, at 11:42 AM, "Kringle" wrote:
>
> Stop it! I say stop it! All this talk about starting on ribs has me frothing
at the mouth. I don't have my plan or wood yet!
>
> --------
> John
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303120#303120
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
> One additional suggestion. Sand the glaze off your sheet of gusset material
before you cut out all the gussets! This will save you a lot of sore fingertips
if you have to do it later.
> Tom Stinemetze
> N328X
> [b]
Yeah, that sanding tip is a biggie... should be tip #1, but I forgot about it...
again. I ended up sanding every gusset individually with emery boards. It
really wasn't too bad, but I wish I had just sanded my sheet before I cut it.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Finishing up Wings - Working on Center Section
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303127#303127
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bet you never saw one of these? |
| From: | "flea" <jimgriggs(at)yahoo.com> |
j_dunavin wrote:
> HA can you imagine if you would hit a dear with that?! [Shocked]
I never sausage a thing.
Sorry, "bet you never saw one of these" + "imagine if you hit a deer with that"
= processed meat jokes. I'll go back to my room now.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303135#303135
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | compass location, panel layout |
One thing to consider with mounting location for a mag compass, is your cab
ane "X" brace wires.- If they are galvanized they will contribute to erro
rs in the compass, stainless wires should not affect the compass.- Of cou
rse if you use a GPS (which I don't have) it would not be as big a deal.-
Any non shielded wire carring current will also throw the comass off a lit
tle.- Just some things to consider when laying out a panel.- One more t
hing about performing a compass swing for calibration, you will want any an
d all electrical systems powered up as they would be in flight to get the m
ost accurate calibration.-
-
Shad
- P.S. for you lucky guys, Brodhead is getting close, hope you all have a
ball, safe journies and good tailwinds.=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | compass location, panel layout |
And put your stick in level flight position. Moving the stick around can
also move your compass, by enough to get you good and lost.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of shad bell
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 2:35 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: compass location, panel layout
One thing to consider with mounting location for a mag compass, is your
cabane "X" brace wires. If they are galvanized they will contribute to
errors in the compass, stainless wires should not affect the compass. Of
course if you use a GPS (which I don't have) it would not be as big a deal.
Any non shielded wire carring current will also throw the comass off a
little. Just some things to consider when laying out a panel. One more
thing about performing a compass swing for calibration, you will want any
and all electrical systems powered up as they would be in flight to get the
most accurate calibration.
Shad
P.S. for you lucky guys, Brodhead is getting close, hope you all have a
ball, safe journies and good tailwinds.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | compass location, panel layout |
Tell me again, why do we have these things? No matter where I place
the compass on our Piet, if it's viewable from the cockpit, it ain't
reading right. And I've tried a couple of different compasses.
>And put your stick in level flight position. Moving the stick
>around can also move your compass, by enough to get you good and
>lost.
>
>Jack Phillips
>NX899JP
>Raleigh, NC
>
>
>From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of shad
>bell
>Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 2:35 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: compass location, panel layout
>
>One thing to consider with mounting location for a mag compass, is
>your cabane "X" brace wires. If they are galvanized they will
>contribute to errors in the compass, stainless wires should not
>affect the compass. Of course if you use a GPS (which I don't have)
>it would not be as big a deal. Any non shielded wire carring
>current will also throw the comass off a little. Just some things
>to consider when laying out a panel. One more thing about
>performing a compass swing for calibration, you will want any and
>all electrical systems powered up as they would be in flight to get
>the most accurate calibration.
>
>Shad
> P.S. for you lucky guys, Brodhead is getting close, hope you all
>have a ball, safe journies and good tailwinds.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | H RULE <harvey.rule(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: compass location, panel layout |
I never use the compass anymore.It's just there for decoration.I always use
GPS and if that goes down use the iron compass(railways) or IFR(I follow r
oads)Always have your map handy on your knee pad and if you need it then it
's there.We fly slow enough to read the road signs.Do like they did in the
old days;land and ask "where the hell am I?"=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________
________________=0AFrom: shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com>=0ATo: pietenpol-
list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Wed, June 30, 2010 2:34:42 PM=0ASubject: Pietenp
ol-List: compass location, panel layout=0A=0A=0AOne thing to consider with
mounting location for a mag compass, is your cabane "X" brace wires.- If
they are galvanized they will contribute to errors in the compass, stainles
s wires should not affect the compass.- Of course if you use a GPS (which
I don't have) it would not be as big a deal.- Any non shielded wire carr
ing current will also throw the comass off a little.- Just some things to
consider when laying out a panel.- One more thing about performing a com
pass swing for calibration, you will want any and all electrical systems po
wered up as they would be in flight to get the most accurate calibration.
- =0A=0AShad=0A- P.S. for you lucky guys, Brodhead is getting close, ho
===============
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Model A experiance |
| From: | "BYD" <bannerbill(at)att.net> |
Don't know if youre still working down this path, but I remembered seeing this photo of a shroud around the carburetor and some of the intake apparently to avoid carb-ice. Its the only application like this Ive seen but thought Id bring it to your attention in case it could help. http://www.westcoastpiet.com/images/Chet%20Heartly/NX920Y_4.jpg
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303152#303152
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "echobravo4" <eab4(at)comcast.net> |
Thanks for the tips everybody!
i do actually have all the capstrip cut already-(and the sander got ALOT of use!)
and i do have a similar bin setup to yours Mark, but, while cutting the gussets
i just got a little ahead of myself and finished one set of gussets for a
rib-
i should have all of the remaining gussets cut by the weekend!
:D
--------
Earl Brown
I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I
intended to be.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303182#303182
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skellytown flyer" <skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com> |
there are some who like the digital thing-I don't.but this project has an EIS instrument
that reads EGT CHT oil pressure and temp, tachometer and outside air
temp.I'm not sure what else.but I plan on removing it at some point.may put it
on E-bay.seems to me like if I see oil temp and pressure and tach each on separate
instruments it is easier to focus my attention on. I would like to temporarily
check my head temp but once I determine it is cooling adequately and know
my air scoops are doing their job I'd as soon not have it. guess I am not
high tech.Raymond
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303185#303185
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Photos of First Flight NX929DH |
| From: | "Pieti Lowell" <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com> |
Congrats Dan, My mind ran back to my first as the smoke curled from the loud bark
of the Ford, just after moving toward one of the greatest feelings a pilot
can have. It is not fear , Dan as you now know , it is excitement , stirred by
adrenalin rush.
A great adventure continues.
Pieti Lowell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303190#303190
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Fay <jfay1950(at)gmail.com> |
List,
In another couple weeks I plan to start work on the fin and rudder. Years
ago I read that one of the builders had expanded his fin. If I remember
right, he said he added about six inches to the front of it. I must have
read it in the BPANewsletter. Bernard P. himself said that extending the
nose for W & B purposes makes it a little harder to straighten back out when
recovering from a slip. I think that last week someone even mentioned here
that it takes a positive reversal of rudder to straighten out after the slip
in their Piet.
I have already extended the fuselage, ahead of the CG, by moving the
firewall 4 inches forward. I am strongly considering making this modest
increase in the fin area. Any pros or cons about this?
(We're counting the days to Brodhead.)
John Fay
in Peoria, IL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol in DFW area |
| From: | "jpkarrera" <jpkarrera(at)hotmail.com> |
Thank you very much for all the responses!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303206#303206
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Photos of First Flight NX929DH |
| From: | "echobravo4" <eab4(at)comcast.net> |
Congratulations Dan!
great pictures, very inspiring!
--------
Earl Brown
I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I
intended to be.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303229#303229
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com> |
John
A few of us have observed that it takes positive force on the reverse rudder
to get out of a slip, but I don't think adding more vertical area is going t
o remedy the problem, and adding the extra weight on this already tail heavy
plane certainly doesn't help!
I'm going to seal the gap in the rudder and the horizontal stabilizer - that
address this quirk.
Dan
--
yocum(at)gmail.com
On Jun 30, 2010, at 10:39 PM, John Fay wrote:
> List,
>
> In another couple weeks I plan to start work on the fin and rudder. Years
ago I read that one of the builders had expanded his fin. If I remember ri
ght, he said he added about six inches to the front of it. I must have read
it in the BPANewsletter. Bernard P. himself said that extending the nose f
or W & B purposes makes it a little harder to straighten back out when recov
ering from a slip. I think that last week someone even mentioned here that i
t takes a positive reversal of rudder to straighten out after the slip in th
eir Piet.
>
> I have already extended the fuselage, ahead of the CG, by moving the firew
all 4 inches forward. I am strongly considering making this modest increase
in the fin area. Any pros or cons about this?
>
> (We're counting the days to Brodhead.)
>
> John Fay
> in Peoria, IL
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack" <jack(at)textors.com> |
| Subject: | Antique Airfield, 4th annual Homebuilt Fly-in, IA27, July |
2nd and 3rd
Anyone planning to attend?
Jack
DSM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: compass location, panel layout |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Jeff,
I mounted my compass hanging from the wing directly in front. Stainless wi
res so no errors. This German compass I bought off ebay reads right on wit
hout any adjustment even needed. Not sure how that happened.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu>
Sent: Wed, Jun 30, 2010 2:08 pm
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: compass location, panel layout
Tell me again, why do we have these things? No matter where I place the co
mpass on our Piet, if it's viewable from the cockpit, it ain't reading rig
ht. And I've tried a couple of different compasses.
And put your stick in level flight position. Moving the stick around can
also move your compass, by enough to get you good and lost.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-li
st-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of shad bell
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 2:35 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: compass location, panel layout
One thing to consider with mounting location for a mag compass, is your ca
bane "X" brace wires. If they are galvanized they will contribute to erro
rs in the compass, stainless wires should not affect the compass. Of cour
se if you use a GPS (which I don't have) it would not be as big a deal.
Any non shielded wire carring current will also throw the comass off a li
ttle. Just some things to consider when laying out a panel. One more thi
ng about performing a compass swing for calibration, you will want any and
all electrical systems powered up as they would be in flight to get the
most accurate calibration.
Shad
P.S. for you lucky guys, Brodhead is getting close, hope you all have a
ball, safe journies and good tailwinds.
========================
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-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com> |
Let me also say that when I get to the point of building the fin area I will
be adding something like a balsa half round to the LE of the rudder to help
close the gap and get rid of that flat surface which undoubtably helps to d
eflect more air through the gap. If you go this route make sure to leave en
ough room to get the hinge pins in.
--
yocum(at)gmail.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Antique Airfield, 4th annual Homebuilt Fly-in, IA27, |
July 2nd and 3rd
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com> |
Rob Bach is but he's fighting a bent exhaust valve on the blue Piet. Wish I
could...
--
yocum(at)gmail.com
On Jul 1, 2010, at 6:33 AM, Jack wrote:
> Anyone planning to attend?
>
> Jack
>
> DSM
>
> <<...>>
>
> <4th homebuilt fly-in.pdf>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kringle" <Mrkringles(at)msn.com> |
Has anyone used a pin nailer to hold their rib gussets in place? I played with
mine last night and it seems to me it would be good way to go. The pins are
1/2 inch long and 23 gauge. That's a smaller gauge than the nails (20 gauge).
I would prefer a shorter length but this is the shortest my Porter- Cable
pin nailer will handle.
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303244#303244
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
I made my fin/rudder 2 inches taller than the plans on the advice of an
old-timer that said a tall pilot would tend to blanket the rudder in
3-point stance. I'm not tall, but the extra height isn't noticable and
adds an insignificant amount of weight. My motormount is 2 inches
longer than plans. The Piet is a full time rudder control airplane, so
I don't know what my feet are doing coming out of a slip, but I'm sure
they are busy. Making the fin wider would make it extend past the
leading edge of the horiz. stab, and be more obvious than making it
taller in my humble opinion.
just my $.02
Ben Charvet
slip sliding away, using both feet
On 6/30/2010 11:39 PM, John Fay wrote:
> List,
> In another couple weeks I plan to start work on the fin and rudder.
> Years ago I read that one of the builders had expanded his fin. If I
> remember right, he said he added about six inches to the front of it.
> I must have read it in the BPANewsletter. Bernard P. himself said
> that extending the nose for W & B purposes makes it a little harder to
> straighten back out when recovering from a slip. I think that last
> week someone even mentioned here that it takes a positive reversal of
> rudder to straighten out after the slip in their Piet.
> I have already extended the fuselage, ahead of the CG, by moving the
> firewall 4 inches forward. I am strongly considering making this
> modest increase in the fin area. Any pros or cons about this?
> (We're counting the days to Brodhead.)
> John Fay
> in Peoria, IL
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | greg menoche <gnwac(at)earthlink.net> |
When your ready for wood, I have a good source in Canada. I'm getting ready to
start cutting gussets, "1200" someone said. Greg Menoche DE
-----Original Message-----
>From: Kringle <Mrkringles(at)msn.com>
>Sent: Jun 30, 2010 11:42 AM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: One Down!
>
>
>Stop it! I say stop it! All this talk about starting on ribs has me frothing
at the mouth. I don't have my plan or wood yet!
>
>--------
>John
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303120#303120
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
I made some triangular filler strips on my tailfeather control surfaces
that only left about 3/16 gap. These were glued to the hinge surfaces,
and openings were left for the hinges and room to remove the pins. If
you do this don't forget to leave room for the covering. I ended up
sealing the gaps too. I didn't leave any square edges anywhere, but did
quite a bit of rounding/streamlining to all the edges.
Ben
On 7/1/2010 8:04 AM, Dan Yocum wrote:
> Let me also say that when I get to the point of building the fin area
> I will be adding something like a balsa half round to the LE of the
> rudder to help close the gap and get rid of that flat surface which
> undoubtably helps to deflect more air through the gap. If you go this
> route make sure to leave enough room to get the hinge pins in.
> --
> yocum(at)gmail.com
>> *
>> *
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
Its more fun to do it the way I did, with 3/8 inch aircraft nails held
with needle nose pliers tapped in with a tack hammer. I remember it as
a character building experience :-)
Ben
On 7/1/2010 8:28 AM, Kringle wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Kringle"
>
> Has anyone used a pin nailer to hold their rib gussets in place? I played with
mine last night and it seems to me it would be good way to go. The pins are
1/2 inch long and 23 gauge. That's a smaller gauge than the nails (20 gauge).
I would prefer a shorter length but this is the shortest my Porter- Cable
pin nailer will handle.
>
> --------
> John
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303244#303244
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation]" <michael.d.cuy(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | office staple gun |
John,
A simple office stapler works good for holding gussets in place while the T-88
cures and it goes
fast. You should be able to build one rib a day that way. Try not to get bogged
down in the
details because the more progress you see faster the more motivated (and less arduous
the mountain
of work ahead of you seems) you'll be to continue.
Just my thoughts. And while I'm pontificating let me add some wide-paint-brush
builder types I've
observed over time.
The Enthusiast: Likes Piets, loves to read about them, write, talk, and muse
about maybe building one some day but that is
the extent of it. They won't ever build but that's just fine.
The Planner: They explore every possible way to mix epoxy before ever mixing some.
They do exhaustive searches on every type of wood
that nature yields before making a decision.
The Oblivious: They don't get the books by Tony Bingelis or use the GREAT, great,
great EAA how-to videos posted on line, books or
other resources whereby you could actually be sealed in your workshop
for 3 years and never have contact with the
world and build a great Pietenpol with just a phone and credit
card to order your raw materials.
The Helpless: Those who are oblivious and lazy who really don't ever want to
build a Pietenpol, they aren't serious in the least, and
they constantly rely on others to look up information from them
and then question if that info is accurate or not instead
of finding out for themselves or exploring how to search the archives
and sift thru the info.
The Flyer/Builder: Those who quietly go about a steady pace of building (Dan Helsper
and Ben Charvet, Douwe come to mind) and have
a goal of not only completing the airplane but flying it.
Flying it is one of the main goals these builders have
and not to build the cheapest, crappiest looking Pietenpol
but to build one with good materials and who use good,
proven methods of aircraft construction.
The Train Wreck: Those who cobble together anything they can find cheap and then
produce a really unsafe, poorly built, piece of junk
project and then sell it off when they loose patience.
The Buyer: I started out like this. I didn't want to wait and build for years
and years. I wanted to have my own FLYING Pietenpol
and I think it is GREAT when flying Piets get purchased and flown
rather than sitting in a dusty hangar for years being
neglected.
The Museum Curator: Those who never fly, never maintain, but own and hold a flyable
Pietenpol.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TOM STINEMETZE" <TOMS(at)mcpcity.com> |
| Subject: | Re: office staple gun |
>Just my thoughts. And while I'm pontificating let me add some wide-paint-
brush builder types I've
>observed over time.
Mike:
I believe you left out one:
The Dreamer This is the guy who eats, sleeps, and dreams airplanes all
the time but never believes he/she has the resources to ever do anything
about it (until age 54 in my case.) If he's lucky something happens that
give him/her a swift kick in the pants to get started. From that point on
it's just a matter of perseverance. It's amazing how much you can get
accomplished $10 - $100 at a time.
Tom Stinemetze
N328X
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: time is close and we are counting down |
| From: | "John Recine" <amsafetyc(at)aol.com> |
UmlnaHQgeW91IGFyZSANClNlbnQgZnJvbSBteSBWZXJpem9uIFdpcmVsZXNzIEJsYWNrQmVycnkN
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PiAgDQo+IEpvaG4NCj4gIA0KPiBEbyBub3QgYXJjaGl2ZSwgdW5sZXNzIHlvdSByZWFsbHkgd2Fu
dCB0byENCj4gIA0KPiANCj4gDQoNCg=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: office staple gun |
To address your last line (and you already know this), you must also
come to terms with the fact that you are building an airplane, not a
go-kart or a garden shed, and that you are going to be laying down
thousands of dollars to get it done. You can fight it to a point, but
reality will win.
You can do it right, and also do it as economically as possible. But
please don't do it cheaply, while hoping to get it right. :P
Ryan
On Jul 1, 2010, at 8:10 AM, "TOM STINEMETZE" wrote:
> >Just my thoughts. And while I'm pontificating let me add some
wide-paint-brush builder types I've
> >observed over time.
> Mike:
>
> I believe you left out one:
> The Dreamer This is the guy who eats, sleeps, and dreams airplanes
all the time but never believes he/she has the resources to ever do
anything about it (until age 54 in my case.) If he's lucky something
happens that give him/her a swift kick in the pants to get started.
=46rom that point on it's just a matter of perseverance. It's amazing
how much you can get accomplished $10 - $100 at a time.
>
> Tom Stinemetze
> N328X
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: compass location, panel layout |
Dan,
Thanks. I've been following your advice and keeping an eye on ebay.
We'll see what comes up.
Jeff
>Jeff,
>
>I mounted my compass hanging from the wing directly in front.
>Stainless wires so no errors. This German compass I bought off ebay
>reads right on without any adjustment even needed. Not sure how that
>happened.
>
>Dan Helsper
>Poplar Grove, IL
>
>
--
Jeff Boatright
"Now let's think about this..."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TOM STINEMETZE" <TOMS(at)mcpcity.com> |
| Subject: | Re: office staple gun |
Absolutely right Ryan. I would hate to be considered a proponent of "The
Fisherman" mentality. If you newbies are not familiar with that term you
can find a lot of posts in the archives about The Fisherman and lets' just
say they are not appreciative of the Fisherman's cheap side.
Tom
>>> Ryan Mueller 7/1/2010 8:35 AM >>>
To address your last line (and you already know this), you must also come
to terms with the fact that you are building an airplane, not a go-kart or
a garden shed, and that you are going to be laying down thousands of
dollars to get it done. You can fight it to a point, but reality will win.
You can do it right, and also do it as economically as possible. But
please don't do it cheaply, while hoping to get it right. :P
Ryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
Should work fine. The nails are only there to hold the gusset in place (and
under the correct clamping pressure if using Resorcinol glue) under the glue
cures. After that they can be removed, if desired.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kringle
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 8:28 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Pin Nailer
Has anyone used a pin nailer to hold their rib gussets in place? I played
with mine last night and it seems to me it would be good way to go. The
pins are 1/2 inch long and 23 gauge. That's a smaller gauge than the
nails (20 gauge). I would prefer a shorter length but this is the shortest
my Porter- Cable pin nailer will handle.
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303244#303244
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: office staple gun |
| From: | "Jerry Dotson" <jdotson(at)erec.net> |
Mikee I don't know where I fit in. I started a year ago today. It is fun. I try
do a little something every day. I emailed you and Jack Phillips in May of last
year with lots of questions. Thanks again. I followed Jack's suggestion of
extending the wing span. My wing is 32' 6". It is just about ready to cover. I
have the center cut-out completed now.
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
Started building NX510JD July, 2009
Ribs and tailfeathers done
using Lycoming O-235
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303271#303271
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/a24_126.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/a15_190.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry Rhoads" <prhoads61(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Antique Airfield, 4th annual Homebuilt Fly-in, IA27, |
July 2nd and 3rd
Antique Airfield, 4th annual Homebuilt Fly-in, IA27, July 2nd and 3rdI'm
going, but taking the RV-3 instead of the Piet.
Perry Rhoads
N12939
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 6:33 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Antique Airfield, 4th annual Homebuilt
Fly-in, IA27, July 2nd and 3rd
Anyone planning to attend?
Jack
DSM
<<...>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: time is close and we are counting down |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
Been counting for a couple of weeks now. I'm totally ate up with it.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Finishing up Wings - Working on Center Section
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303280#303280
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/countdown_140.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: seen at post office |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
Yep, that's the guy. He is also known to go on beer bottle cap collecting sprees
right before he blows outta town.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Finishing up Wings - Working on Center Section
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303281#303281
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | office staple gun |
Mike,
I think you left a couple of categories out:
The Schemer: Before they ever glue two sticks together they have their
paint scheme all layed out and colors chosen. I have never known a builder
in this category to finish their airplane.
The Expert: They've never built any airplane, much less a Pietenpol, but
because they took an 8th grade shop class they are expert on woodworking and
can tell you that Gorilla Glue is far superior to anything YOU are using on
your airplane. At best they are a waste of time and at worst they can make
you question the sound building practices you are already using. There's
one (or more) at every airport.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cuy, Michael
D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation]
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 8:51 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: office staple gun
Aerospace Corporation]"
And while I'm pontificating let me add some wide-paint-brush builder types
I've
observed over time.
The Enthusiast: Likes Piets, loves to read about them, write, talk, and
muse about maybe building one some day but that is
the extent of it. They won't ever build but that's just
fine.
The Planner: They explore every possible way to mix epoxy before ever
mixing some. They do exhaustive searches on every type of wood
that nature yields before making a decision.
The Oblivious: They don't get the books by Tony Bingelis or use the GREAT,
great, great EAA how-to videos posted on line, books or
other resources whereby you could actually be sealed in
your workshop for 3 years and never have contact with the
world and build a great Pietenpol with just a phone and
credit card to order your raw materials.
The Helpless: Those who are oblivious and lazy who really don't ever want
to build a Pietenpol, they aren't serious in the least, and
they constantly rely on others to look up information from
them and then question if that info is accurate or not instead
of finding out for themselves or exploring how to search the
archives and sift thru the info.
The Flyer/Builder: Those who quietly go about a steady pace of building
(Dan Helsper and Ben Charvet, Douwe come to mind) and have
a goal of not only completing the airplane but flying
it. Flying it is one of the main goals these builders have
and not to build the cheapest, crappiest looking
Pietenpol but to build one with good materials and who use good,
proven methods of aircraft construction.
The Train Wreck: Those who cobble together anything they can find cheap and
then produce a really unsafe, poorly built, piece of junk
project and then sell it off when they loose patience.
The Buyer: I started out like this. I didn't want to wait and build
for years and years. I wanted to have my own FLYING Pietenpol
and I think it is GREAT when flying Piets get purchased and
flown rather than sitting in a dusty hangar for years being
neglected.
The Museum Curator: Those who never fly, never maintain, but own and hold a
flyable Pietenpol.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kringle" <Mrkringles(at)msn.com> |
They make 304 stainless pin nails which should address the corrosion problem.
I tried using an office stapler and that was too inconsistent. I also tried removing
the steel wire pins by reducing the air pressure to allow the wire to protrude
about an 1/8 of an inch. They are coated with a material that makes them
almost impossible to pull. I ending up breaking the wire off before I pulled
any of them out.
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303284#303284
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: time is close and we are counting down |
| From: | "John Recine" <amsafetyc(at)aol.com> |
TWF5IGhhdmUgdG8gcmV0aGluayByZXNlcnZhdGlvbnMgYW5kIG1vdmUgdGhhdCB0byBzYXR1cmRh
eSBuaWdodCBNYXJpYXMuICBIbW1tbW1tIGJyYXRzIGFuIGJlZXJycnJycnJycg0KDQpEbyBub3Qg
YXJjaGl2ZQ0KDQoNClNlbnQgZnJvbSBteSBWZXJpem9uIFdpcmVsZXNzIEJsYWNrQmVycnkNCg0K
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bm90IGFyY2hpdmUNCg0KDQpKb2huIEhvZm1hbm4NClZpY2UtUHJlc2lkZW50LCBJbmZvcm1hdGlv
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b2NrZm9yZCBhbmQgY2hlY2sNCj4+IGluIGEgZGVjZW50IGhvdGVsIGdvc2ggd2hvIGtub3dzIHdo
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IHVwIHRoZSBib2lsZWQgZmlzaCBkaW5uZXIgYXQgQnJvZGhlYWQgdG8gaGF2ZSBJdGFsaWFuIGlu
IFJvY2tmb3JkPyAgUmVhbGx5Pz8NCj4gDQo+IEkndmUgYWxyZWFkeSByZXNlcnZlZCBhIHNlY29u
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ZnJvbSB0aGUgdHlyYW5ueSBvZiBwZXR0eSB0aGluZ3MuIg0KPiANCj4gDQo+IA0KPiANCg0K
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | airlion <airlion(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: office staple gun |
Back in the days of canvas covered decks on wooden sailboats we used MONEL staples
to hold the canvass down. Monel staples don't rust and you can still get them.
Gardiner.
----- Original Message ----
From: Jack Phillips <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Thu, July 1, 2010 10:21:43 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: office staple gun
Mike,
I think you left a couple of categories out:
The Schemer: Before they ever glue two sticks together they have their
paint scheme all layed out and colors chosen. I have never known a builder
in this category to finish their airplane.
The Expert: They've never built any airplane, much less a Pietenpol, but
because they took an 8th grade shop class they are expert on woodworking and
can tell you that Gorilla Glue is far superior to anything YOU are using on
your airplane. At best they are a waste of time and at worst they can make
you question the sound building practices you are already using. There's
one (or more) at every airport.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cuy, Michael
D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation]
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 8:51 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: office staple gun
Aerospace Corporation]"
And while I'm pontificating let me add some wide-paint-brush builder types
I've
observed over time.
The Enthusiast: Likes Piets, loves to read about them, write, talk, and
muse about maybe building one some day but that is
the extent of it. They won't ever build but that's just
fine.
The Planner: They explore every possible way to mix epoxy before ever
mixing some. They do exhaustive searches on every type of wood
that nature yields before making a decision.
The Oblivious: They don't get the books by Tony Bingelis or use the GREAT,
great, great EAA how-to videos posted on line, books or
other resources whereby you could actually be sealed in
your workshop for 3 years and never have contact with the
world and build a great Pietenpol with just a phone and
credit card to order your raw materials.
The Helpless: Those who are oblivious and lazy who really don't ever want
to build a Pietenpol, they aren't serious in the least, and
they constantly rely on others to look up information from
them and then question if that info is accurate or not instead
of finding out for themselves or exploring how to search the
archives and sift thru the info.
The Flyer/Builder: Those who quietly go about a steady pace of building
(Dan Helsper and Ben Charvet, Douwe come to mind) and have
a goal of not only completing the airplane but flying
it. Flying it is one of the main goals these builders have
and not to build the cheapest, crappiest looking
Pietenpol but to build one with good materials and who use good,
proven methods of aircraft construction.
The Train Wreck: Those who cobble together anything they can find cheap and
then produce a really unsafe, poorly built, piece of junk
project and then sell it off when they loose patience.
The Buyer: I started out like this. I didn't want to wait and build
for years and years. I wanted to have my own FLYING Pietenpol
and I think it is GREAT when flying Piets get purchased and
flown rather than sitting in a dusty hangar for years being
neglected.
The Museum Curator: Those who never fly, never maintain, but own and hold a
flyable Pietenpol.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevinpurtee" <kevin.purtee(at)us.army.mil> |
Hi John - Mine's bone stock and it goes in and out of slips just fine.
--------
Kevin Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303303#303303
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: time is close and we are counting down |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
We are still on for Maria's, but 8 is pretty late.
What is this about beer and brats? [Laughing]
--------
Mark Chouinard
Finishing up Wings - Working on Center Section
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303304#303304
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation]" <michael.d.cuy(at)nasa.gov> |
Andrew King would know this for sure but when they recovered Alan Rudolph's old
1930's Pietenpol
Air Camper (that Frank Pavliga now owns) I don't recall them having to replace
the rusted nails
holding the wing rib gussets unless the actual gusset glue joint was loose.
Besides, if you use staples, cement-coated, brass plated steel nails (I did) and
you varnish over
the whole thing they really shouldn't rust anyway and if a 1930's wing is still
flying in good shape
with rusty nails I don't see all the worry over something that is only needed for
12 hours of glue
curing.
Mike C.
Not one to dance on the head of a pin....
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | which power plant??? |
| From: | "j_dunavin" <j_dunavin(at)hotmail.com> |
My dad and I are really starting to ramp up this project, and we will be ordering
our plans soon. But there is some discussion on which engine we should put
in there. My argument is that we already have a source of one possibly two corvair
motors. For FREE! Not to mention all the other reasons why I think we should
go with the corvair.
He wants the Model A.
The question:
What motor do you have in your Piet, and why did you decide to use it?
Please give any and all reasons. Even if you did the Model A just for looks alone,
I want to know.
I also am going to try to make it up to Broadhead on the 24th.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303312#303312
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: time is close and we are counting down |
| From: | "Kringle" <Mrkringles(at)msn.com> |
Boiled fish?
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303313#303313
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: which power plant??? |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
Well, in one of your earlier posts you said: "I'm concerned that my dad and
I both will not be able to fly in there as he is about 200 and I'm 225".
The good news is that if you use a Model A and you build to the plans to
keep the weight down, you can probably both fly in the airplane. The bad
news is that you are going to have to arrange for a tow-plane, as you will
not be able to bring any fuel along.
I would caution that you not let the fact that the Corvair cores are free be
one of your deciding factors in going that route. A decent core should run
you roughly somewhere between $150 and $300, generally speaking. You are
going to spend thousands more converting it for aircraft use, so the intial
cost of the cores is a pittance compared to your overall investment. If you
go the Corvair route do it because it will meet your needs for what you want
to do with the airplane, not because you saved a couple hundred bucks at the
get go.
Ryan
On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 11:18 AM, j_dunavin wrote:
>
> My dad and I are really starting to ramp up this project, and we will be
> ordering our plans soon. But there is some discussion on which engine we
> should put in there. My argument is that we already have a source of one
> possibly two corvair motors. For FREE! Not to mention all the other reasons
> why I think we should go with the corvair.
> He wants the Model A.
> The question:
> What motor do you have in your Piet, and why did you decide to use it?
> Please give any and all reasons. Even if you did the Model A just for looks
> alone, I want to know.
> I also am going to try to make it up to Broadhead on the 24th.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303312#303312
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
I used an Arrow model JT-21M stapler with 1/4" JT21 staples, hold well and
come out easy.
On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 8:34 AM, Kringle wrote:
>
> They make 304 stainless pin nails which should address the corrosion
> problem. I tried using an office stapler and that was too inconsistent. I
> also tried removing the steel wire pins by reducing the air pressure to
> allow the wire to protrude about an 1/8 of an inch. They are coated with a
> material that makes them almost impossible to pull. I ending up breaking
> the wire off before I pulled any of them out.
>
> --------
> John
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303284#303284
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
You can also make a nail holder out of a piece of cereal box cardboard.-
Just take the lid tabs off the box and cut some slits in the outter edges a
nd slide your nails in.- It works ok, but some times the nails fall out w
hile hitting the adjacent nails.
-
Shad=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: office staple gun |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
Wow 32 1/2 ft. all in one big piece, beautiful.
On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 8:03 AM, Jerry Dotson wrote:
>
> Mikee I don't know where I fit in. I started a year ago today. It is fun. I
> try do a little something every day. I emailed you and Jack Phillips in May
> of last year with lots of questions. Thanks again. I followed Jack's
> suggestion of extending the wing span. My wing is 32' 6". It is just about
> ready to cover. I have the center cut-out completed now.
>
> --------
> Jerry Dotson
> 59 Daniel Johnson Rd
> Baker, FL 32531
>
> Started building NX510JD July, 2009
> Ribs and tailfeathers done
> using Lycoming O-235
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303271#303271
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/a24_126.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/a15_190.jpg
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
Short staples are much easier to get in and to get out (if you want to waste
the time to remove them like I did).
rick
On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 6:28 AM, Kringle wrote:
>
> Has anyone used a pin nailer to hold their rib gussets in place? I played
> with mine last night and it seems to me it would be good way to go. The
> pins are 1/2 inch long and 23 gauge. That's a smaller gauge than the
> nails (20 gauge). I would prefer a shorter length but this is the shortest
> my Porter- Cable pin nailer will handle.
>
> --------
> John
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303244#303244
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: office staple gun |
| From: | "Jerry Dotson" <jdotson(at)erec.net> |
Thanks Rick.
Re:Wow 32 1/2 ft. all in one big piece, beautiful.
I have been asked why 1 piece numerous times and my answer is "I am not building
it to assemble and disassemble. I am building it to fly. I also think its easier
to build a one piece. I has hoped to fly it this year.......ain't gonna happen.
Maybe next spring. I am into the time consuming little details now.
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
Started building NX510JD July, 2009
Ribs and tailfeathers done
using Lycoming O-235
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303331#303331
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: beer and brats |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
There goes the neighborhood.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Finishing up Wings - Working on Center Section
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303332#303332
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: which power plant??? |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
Very true. My core cost $200 and the rebuild machine work and Clarks Corvair
and William Wynne parts cost another $5800 and that does not include a $1200
5th bearing (which is not required on a Piet, but not a bad idea).
I think the easiest, most reliable and most common solution is the C-65 for
around $7500 (if that is enough power for you and you don't mine hand
propping). I will fly out of a 7000 ft airport so I needed (wanted) more
power which meant an O-200 or a Corvair. O-200 would be around $10,000.
The other issue is maintenance, a Corvair can be completely rebuilt for the
cost of a single O-200 cylinder (that played a big part in my decision).
Kind of like the difference between buying parts for an old Rolls Royce vs.
a newer Ford Pickup.
Question is how "experimental" do you want to go? The least experimental you
can go is to buy a quick build kit and a new aircraft engine. The most
experimental you can go is to custom design and build an aircraft and
convert an auto engine for it (like Bernard Pietenpol). Building a Piet with
a Model A, Corvair, or other auto conversion (and non-aircraft paint) is
very experimental and probably why I went that direction.
rick
I would caution that you not let the fact that the Corvair cores are free be
> one of your deciding factors in going that route. A decent core should run
> you roughly somewhere between $150 and $300, generally speaking. You are
> going to spend thousands more converting it for aircraft use, so the intial
> cost of the cores is a pittance compared to your overall investment. If you
> go the Corvair route do it because it will meet your needs for what you want
> to do with the airplane, not because you saved a couple hundred bucks at the
> get go.
>
> Ryan
>
> On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 11:18 AM, j_dunavin wrote:
>
>>
>> My dad and I are really starting to ramp up this project, and we will be
>> ordering our plans soon. But there is some discussion on which engine we
>> should put in there. My argument is that we already have a source of one
>> possibly two corvair motors. For FREE! Not to mention all the other reasons
>> why I think we should go with the corvair.
>> He wants the Model A.
>> The question:
>> What motor do you have in your Piet, and why did you decide to use it?
>> Please give any and all reasons. Even if you did the Model A just for
>> looks alone, I want to know.
>> I also am going to try to make it up to Broadhead on the 24th.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303312#303312
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> st" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: which power plant??? |
When looking to replace our tired A-65 on the Piet, I had the choice
of a Corvair with all the conversion parts and manual on hand or a
C-75 that needed to be re-rebuilt. I went with the C-75 for several
reasons, none of which may apply to you, but since you asked the list
for any and all reasons:
1. I wanted to go flying as quickly as possible, which led to these
considerations:
1A. The local mechanical guru was happy to help with the C-75 and in
fact really pushed it. He isn't opposed to Corvair conversions, in
fact he now owns the Corvair engine and parts that I had originally
accumulated and plans to install such in a Jodel at some point. But,
bottom line: Knowledgeable people at airports will be able to help
you with LyCons.
1B. The cowling, engine mount, and prop from the A-65 could be used
for the C-75.
1C. The C-75 is more of a known quantity. Even though the re-rebuild
probably took as much time as building up a Corvair conversion, once
built, there was basically no benchmark testing needed.
2. Corvair cranks kept snapping and nobody really knew why. I know
about the circumstances people have reported and that nitriding them
supposedly fixes the problem, but at the time I simply was not
satisfied with the testing that was supposed to support this
solution. I haven't kept up enough since then to judge whether
nitriding is the solution. I am not saying anyone else is wrong about
this, I'm just saying that since I had the two engines sitting in
front of me and could make the choice, I went with the C-75. It was a
personal choice and speaks nothing to other people's decisions or
circumstances then or now.
3. My two partners in the plane were much happier with the C-75
choice. They each had their own reasons, but this was the deciding
factor. The other reasons above didn't really come into play except
for conversations that occurred inside my head.
HTH,
Jeff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Countdown has begun, Beer and Brats? |
I got a copy of the July BPA newsletter from Doc Mosher today, and there
is a picture of my wife and me after her first flight. I told her she
will be famous at Brodhead now. We'll be there Friday morning, but tell
me more about the Beer and Brats! Sure sounds better than boiled fish.
Ben Charvet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | which power plant??? |
I went with the A65 Continental for several reasons:
1. I had owned an A65 before on a J-3 Cub and was familiar with it
2. I had owned a Corvair engine before on a Corvair and was familiar with it
3. I already had all the tools I would need to overhaul the A65
4. The A65 is rated at 1500 hours TBO, and is as near bulletproof as you
are likely to find in the 50 - 125 hp range
5. I don't mind hand-propping - I rather enjoy it
6. I like the sound of the A65
7. I didn't want a Model A because I know nothing about working on it, and
don't know how to pour babbit bearings. I do like the pockita pockita
sound of it, though.
8. I would prefer a small (100 hp) radial engine, but haven't found one that
meets my requirements for cost and reliability
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of j_dunavin
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 12:18 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: which power plant???
My dad and I are really starting to ramp up this project, and we will be
ordering our plans soon. But there is some discussion on which engine we
should put in there. My argument is that we already have a source of one
possibly two corvair motors. For FREE! Not to mention all the other reasons
why I think we should go with the corvair.
He wants the Model A.
The question:
What motor do you have in your Piet, and why did you decide to use it?
Please give any and all reasons. Even if you did the Model A just for looks
alone, I want to know.
I also am going to try to make it up to Broadhead on the 24th.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303312#303312
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Todd Pryby" <tpryby(at)cox.net> |
Where does a person order the plans for a Pietenpol from?
Thank you,
Todd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim <jimboyer(at)hughes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: weekend cowl work |
Hi Mike,
I don't think I said anything before but your work on the cowl for the Corvair
really looks good. Out of metal yet!!! I really do like the way you did the bottom
curved; perfect for air outlet as well. Have you got the rest of the cowl
done yet? Love to see a picture of it complete.
Say Hi to your Dad,
Jim
Jim Boyer
Santa Rosa, CA
Pietenpol on wheels
Tail surfaces done
Wing ribs done
Corvair engine
On Apr 5, 2010, Michael Groah wrote:
That initial piece or little chin angle is a result of my wanting a smaller nose
area, but having to get around the engine and mount. That little angled area
allows me to get around that lower area. When designing my cowl I had a list
of wants. I wanted as small a nose bowl as possible while still enclosing the
front starter/ring gear. I also wanted to have a rounded bottom. If I had
done the square/flat bottom that many other corvair-piets have then I wouldn't
have needed the chin angle and things would have been easier to fabricate.
(I seem to like to make things as hard as possible whenever I can). I kinda
like how the faceted lower section came out, and it's my airplane, so I only have
to please myself. :)
Obviously everything is still
very rough and in need of a lot of cutting and fitting.
Mike Groah
From: Gary Boothe <gboothe5(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Mon, April 5, 2010 6:14:00 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: weekend cowl work
Looking good, Mike! Im curious about the initial piece on
the bottom of the nose bowl.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
18 ribs done
From:
owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Groah
Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 5:35 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: weekend cowl work
I just thought I'd post some pics of the work we got done on
the cowl this past weekend. So far we just have the nose, top and
bottom roughed in. We will get to the sides in time. We have
masking tape on the intake and cooling scoops to keep from scratching
them. We're no metal experts, but we should be able to hack a cowl out of
this. Anyways, I just thought I'd share our progress.
Mike Groah
Tulare CA
://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navt="_blank" href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matr====================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation]" <michael.d.cuy(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | plans available here |
http://www.pressenter.com/~apietenp/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | airlion <airlion(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Countdown has begun, Beer and Brats? |
Being a georgia redneck I am all for the beer and brats. Let me know moreabout
it . I can help out too. Gardiner Mason
----- Original Message ----
From: Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thu, July 1, 2010 2:24:59 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Countdown has begun, Beer and Brats?
I got a copy of the July BPA newsletter from Doc Mosher today, and there is a picture
of my wife and me after her first flight. I told her she will be famous
at Brodhead now. We'll be there Friday morning, but tell me more about the
Beer and Brats! Sure sounds better than boiled fish.
Ben Charvet
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: which power plant??? |
| From: | "BYD" <bannerbill(at)att.net> |
> What motor do you have in your Piet, and why did you decide to use it?
> Please give any and all reasons. Even if you did the Model A just for looks alone,
I want to know.
Dont know if this will help, but you wanted to know. Im working on what may end
up being the longest Pietenpol project ever (started in 1974). I took on a
partner to build two of them in the 1980s (hes doing the wings and Im doing fuselage
and engines). We wanted the classic straight axles but Bernard warned
me that it was heavier. We rationalized that saving the weight difference with
a metal fuselage would be the way to go and commissioned a certified welder
to create two of them with conventional mounts (Continental or Lycoming flat-fours)
but we both loved the Model-A looks and sound.
We decided to make the pilgrimage to Mecca (Brodhead) specifically to compare performance
of A/C flat-fours, Corvair and Model-A engines. I took a ride with
Bill Knight (Model-A) and my partner flew with Virl Deal (Corvair) and we both
watched the different ships come and go during the weekend. In the end, we
both decided that the Model-A compared favorably with the other ships and after
getting home modified our ships to accept the Model-A. I assume its the old
theory of moving a small amount of air at a high velocity versus moving a large
volume of air slowly but we were impressed with the Model-A.
As background, I live in a forested state (Washington) where the trees are typically
150 to 200 feet tall and some airports look like swaths cut out of the trees.
I used to own and fly N2431 (now owned by Ernie Moreno) and back then it
was 150lbs overweight and the Franklin 65 engine was pretty anemic I had a
lot of fun in that plane but some stressful moments as well. Pete Bowers owned
a Model-A powered ship (688Y) nearby and it seemed to perform fine with both
of us on board.
I have not finished my Model-A project (626E) yet, nor do I know what it will weigh,
so perhaps my decision was incorrect. The advice mentioned earlier about
not selecting your power plant based on initial cost seems the wisest. You
and your dad have a dream my advice is to strive towards that dream being realistic
and safe. If youre unsure and your dad wants the Model-A, Id lean that
direction. A lot of Model-As have been replaced with conventional engines for
a lot of different reasons, but theres a lot of them still flying. Im sorry
for the ramble but I too went through your assessment process either way, its
a great experience.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303367#303367
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Dever <chiefpepperhead(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | which power plant??? |
I'm by no means an expert on anything Pietenpol. I've decided (At least fo
r now.) on a Model A. But since I started on the wings first I figure I ha
ve a couple years still to decide. Just buy the plans=2C study them=2C buy
the books watch all the EAA videos=2C get building. If you still have que
stions=2C search the archives. If you can't find an answer=2C ask=2C someo
ne will answer it. I'm on about as limited a budget as you can get. I hav
e way more time than money. Sometimes neither. But that will change. Any
one can usually find 5-10 bucks a day. (Quit somking and drinking so much b
eer:-0. That will build you an airplane. That will also hanger it and buy
some gas every month and some liability insurance. At least around here.
Doug Dever
In beautiful Stow Ohio
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: which power plant???
> From: j_dunavin(at)hotmail.com
> Date: Thu=2C 1 Jul 2010 09:18:24 -0700
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> My dad and I are really starting to ramp up this project=2C and we will b
e ordering our plans soon. But there is some discussion on which engine we
should put in there. My argument is that we already have a source of one po
ssibly two corvair motors. For FREE! Not to mention all the other reasons w
hy I think we should go with the corvair.
> He wants the Model A.
> The question:
> What motor do you have in your Piet=2C and why did you decide to use it?
> Please give any and all reasons. Even if you did the Model A just for loo
ks alone=2C I want to know.
> I also am going to try to make it up to Broadhead on the 24th.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303312#303312
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with H
otmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=
PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pieti Lowell" <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com> |
I have been slipping since the early 60's, and I have 7 gray hairs to show for
Piet side slips, using standard built Pietenpols.
Pieti Lowell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303377#303377
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Newbie from SW Kansas |
| From: | "Dan P" <dlplett(at)swko.net> |
I've been intrigued by the Pietenpol. Last weekend my son-Chance, Steve R and
I went to inspect one that was for sale. A few hours later and a handshake
I now I own a Piet. :D If everything falls into place and the weather cooperates
Steve R will fly it to it's new home.
I've been a Mooney pilot for years now I'm ready for the 'low and slow' experience.
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303382#303382
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Newbie from SW Kansas |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
Congratulations Dan. Which Piet did you purchase?
Ryan
On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 6:09 PM, Dan P wrote:
>
> I've been intrigued by the Pietenpol. Last weekend my son-Chance, Steve R
> and I went to inspect one that was for sale. A few hours later and a
> handshake I now I own a Piet. :D If everything falls into place and the
> weather cooperates Steve R will fly it to it's new home.
>
> I've been a Mooney pilot for years now I'm ready for the 'low and slow'
> experience.
>
> --------
> Dan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303382#303382
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Newbie from SW Kansas |
| From: | "Dan P" <dlplett(at)swko.net> |
Ryan, The Piet is in the NE Oklahoma area near Tulsa.
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303386#303386
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/helf2_751.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Newbie from SW Kansas |
Congrats, Dan!! PICTURES, MAN, PICTURES!!
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
20 ribs done
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan P
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 4:10 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Newbie from SW Kansas
I've been intrigued by the Pietenpol. Last weekend my son-Chance, Steve R
and I went to inspect one that was for sale. A few hours later and a
handshake I now I own a Piet. :D If everything falls into place and the
weather cooperates Steve R will fly it to it's new home.
I've been a Mooney pilot for years now I'm ready for the 'low and slow'
experience.
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303382#303382
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Markle <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie from SW Kansas |
When are you picking it up? I live about 20 minutes from that Piet (if it's Roger
White's Piet...)
Whatever, I'm just outside Tulsa so please let me know when you're coming back
into the area.
jm
-----Original Message-----
>From: Dan P <dlplett(at)swko.net>
>Sent: Jul 1, 2010 6:44 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Newbie from SW Kansas
>
>
>Ryan, The Piet is in the NE Oklahoma area near Tulsa.
>
>--------
>Dan
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303386#303386
>
>
>Attachments:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com//files/helf2_751.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrel Jones <wd6bor(at)vom.com> |
Jim,
Have you sent your harmonic dampener up for rebuild yet? I can dig out a
couple of mine if you want to ship them together. I've been cleaning
parts and hope to start assembly later this summer.
Darrel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | which power plant??? |
J,
My reason for choosing the Corvair was not for any of the 'good' reasons
that Ryan M. mentioned, or any of the others who gave input. In the
beginning I was truly enamored with the Model A, but eventually stumbled
upon the picture of the "Last Original." Being personally compelled to walk
a 'less traveled' path, well, the rest just followed.
BTW - Don't order the plans "soon." Order them TONIGHT!
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
20 ribs done
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of j_dunavin
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 9:18 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: which power plant???
My dad and I are really starting to ramp up this project, and we will be
ordering our plans soon. But there is some discussion on which engine we
should put in there. My argument is that we already have a source of one
possibly two corvair motors. For FREE! Not to mention all the other reasons
why I think we should go with the corvair.
He wants the Model A.
The question:
What motor do you have in your Piet, and why did you decide to use it?
Please give any and all reasons. Even if you did the Model A just for looks
alone, I want to know.
I also am going to try to make it up to Broadhead on the 24th.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303312#303312
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: time is close and we are counting down |
| From: | "echobravo4" <eab4(at)comcast.net> |
This is going to be my first time at Brodhead and i think i am more excited
than Christmas!
I'll be heading down from Oshkosh on Saturday-Can't wait!!
--------
Earl Brown
I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I
intended to be.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303401#303401
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie from SW Kansas |
Careful, Dan...make sure the wheels are still on it when JM leaves...
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(20 ribs down.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Markle
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 5:00 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Newbie from SW Kansas
When are you picking it up? I live about 20 minutes from that Piet (if it's
Roger White's Piet...)
Whatever, I'm just outside Tulsa so please let me know when you're coming
back into the area.
jm
-----Original Message-----
>From: Dan P <dlplett(at)swko.net>
>Sent: Jul 1, 2010 6:44 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Newbie from SW Kansas
>
>
>Ryan, The Piet is in the NE Oklahoma area near Tulsa.
>
>--------
>Dan
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303386#303386
>
>
>Attachments:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com//files/helf2_751.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie from SW Kansas |
Nice, Dan!...been toying with that fuel tank design myself...
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(20 ribs down.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan P
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 4:44 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Newbie from SW Kansas
Ryan, The Piet is in the NE Oklahoma area near Tulsa.
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303386#303386
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/helf2_751.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: time is close and we are counting down |
Earl,
You should be excited! I got to go last year for the first time, but can't
make it this year. For me the Pietenpol is pure emotion, for several
reasons, and that first trip to Brodhead would bring tears to the eyes of a
lesser man...
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(20 ribs down.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of echobravo4
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 6:01 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: time is close and we are counting down
This is going to be my first time at Brodhead and i think i am more excited
than Christmas!
I'll be heading down from Oshkosh on Saturday-Can't wait!!
--------
Earl Brown
I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up
where I intended to be.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303401#303401
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Newbie from SW Kansas |
| From: | "Dan P" <dlplett(at)swko.net> |
JM, That is Kevin's Piet. We should be down July 10th to pick it up. Gary,
I'll do a 'parts inventory' . [Wink]
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303410#303410
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol in DFW area |
| From: | "Dan P" <dlplett(at)swko.net> |
I come across this Piet found in Denton, TX. Just north of Dallas.
http://2aw.com/pietenpol.htm
I don't know the owner or whether he is interested in showing the Piet to non-buyers.
But it might be worth a try.
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303415#303415
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
My fuse and wing ribs have nothing except glue,
but seeing mine in action I would have used it in
a flash on all that stuff and will when I'm putting
the wing together. That thing is the fault I wound
up with my lathe/mill combo that has already saved
me more than it cost! :-)
Clif
>> Has anyone used a pin nailer to hold their rib gussets in place? I
>> played with mine last night and it seems to me it would be good way to
>> go. The pins are 1/2 inch long and 23 gauge. That's a smaller gauge
>> than the nails (20 gauge). I would prefer a shorter length but this is
>> the shortest my Porter- Cable pin nailer will handle.
>>
>> --------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: which power plant??? |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
Well put Gary, I didn't think about it earlier but that is also probably the
main reason I went for the Piet/Corvair/latex paint/etc, road less traveled.
Rick
On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 6:46 PM, Gary Boothe wrote:
>
> J,
>
> My reason for choosing the Corvair was not for any of the 'good' reasons
> that Ryan M. mentioned, or any of the others who gave input. In the
> beginning I was truly enamored with the Model A, but eventually stumbled
> upon the picture of the "Last Original." Being personally compelled to walk
> a 'less traveled' path, well, the rest just followed.
>
> BTW - Don't order the plans "soon." Order them TONIGHT!
>
> Gary Boothe
> Cool, CA
> Pietenpol
> WW Corvair Conversion
> Tail done, Fuselage on gear
> 20 ribs done
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of j_dunavin
> Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 9:18 AM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: which power plant???
>
>
> My dad and I are really starting to ramp up this project, and we will be
> ordering our plans soon. But there is some discussion on which engine we
> should put in there. My argument is that we already have a source of one
> possibly two corvair motors. For FREE! Not to mention all the other reasons
> why I think we should go with the corvair.
> He wants the Model A.
> The question:
> What motor do you have in your Piet, and why did you decide to use it?
> Please give any and all reasons. Even if you did the Model A just for looks
> alone, I want to know.
> I also am going to try to make it up to Broadhead on the 24th.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303312#303312
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Countdown has begun, Beer and Brats? |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
at7000ft wrote:
> I have heard that Georgia rednecks are the worst kind (as far as rednecks go).
Then they must be tied with Arkansas rednecks. [Laughing]
--------
Mark Chouinard
Finishing up Wings - Working on Center Section
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303419#303419
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
I didn't think so at the time but in the two years that it took William
Wynne to complete my order for a distributor technology had advanced enough
that I ended up with an electronic/points distributor.
rick
On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 5:45 PM, Jim wrote:
>
>
> Thats right; I still have the dual points one.
> Thanks Rick
> Jim
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
bencharvet(at)gmail.com wrote:
> Its more fun to do it the way I did, with 3/8 inch aircraft nails held
> with needle nose pliers tapped in with a tack hammer. I remember it as
> a character building experience :-)
Same here... definitely a lesson in patience. I drove over 3700 nails using a
tac hammer and needle nosed-pliers. 126 nails per rib... more in the 6 end ribs
with extra gussets. I didn't pull mine... left em in place.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Finishing up Wings - Working on Center Section
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303421#303421
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
I didn't think so at the time but in the two years that it took William
Wynne to complete my order for a distributor technology had advanced enough
that I ended up with an electronic/points distributor.
rick
On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 5:45 PM, Jim wrote:
Thats right; I still have the dual points one.
Thanks Rick
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: office staple gun |
Yes, and also the one constrained by one's significant other
for years and/or family health issues.
For the past ten years I figure mine has cost me the equivalent
of a dinner out for two each month.
Clif
Life is not about waiting for the storm to pass,
It's about learning to dance in the rain.
I believe you left out one:
The Dreamer This is the guy who eats, sleeps, and dreams airplanes
all the time but never believes he/she has the resources to ever do
anything about it (until age 54 in my case.) If he's lucky something
happens that give him/her a swift kick in the pants to get started.
>From that point on it's just a matter of perseverance. It's amazing
how much you can get accomplished $10 - $100 at a time.
Tom Stinemetze
N328X
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
06/30/10 11:38:00
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Newbie from SW Kansas |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
Yep, Kevin Helf of Sand Rige Airpark (Collinsville, OK). Just a couple miles (literally)
from my place. Were you down last weekend for the Burger Bash? If
so, sorry I missed ya. I didn't even know he was selling that thing.
Roger White's is still for sale too... same field.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Finishing up Wings - Working on Center Section
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303425#303425
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Markle <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Newbie from SW Kansas |
You're safe...this isn't a REAL Pietenpol (Model A powered....) :-)
I do want to know what your schedule looks like for that Saturday...maybe invite
myself over to see it fly to it's new home.
And congrats! I love my Piet (project) but can sure see the benefit to buying
one ready to fly! Pretty cool!
jm....
-----Original Message-----
>From: Dan P <dlplett(at)swko.net>
>Sent: Jul 1, 2010 8:46 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Newbie from SW Kansas
>
>
>JM, That is Kevin's Piet. We should be down July 10th to pick it up. Gary,
I'll do a 'parts inventory' . [Wink]
>
>--------
>Dan
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303410#303410
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim <jimboyer(at)hughes.net> |
Rick,
Its been a while since we saw your video of your engine start; so how are you coming
on your plane? By the way I have your electrical diagram printed out and
an also using it to wire mine.
Jim
Jim Boyer
Santa Rosa, CA
Pietenpol on wheels
Tail surfaces done
Wing ribs done
Corvair engine
On Jul 1, 2010, Rick Holland wrote:
I didn't think so at the time but in the two years that it took William Wynne to
complete my order for a distributor technology had advanced enough that I ended
up with an electronic/points distributor.
rick
On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 5:45 PM, Jim wrote:
Thats right; I still have the dual points one.
Thanks Rick
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim <jimboyer(at)hughes.net> |
Hi Darrel,
No I haven't but just need to find a box and some bubble wrap to put it in. How
about we get together after the 4th and send them in. Arlene and I are going
to South Dakota to meet with my brothers to settle some property issues. We fly
out the 16th and back on the 25th.
Jim
Jim Boyer
Santa Rosa, CA
Pietenpol on wheels
Tail surfaces done
Wing ribs done
Corvair engine
On Jul 1, 2010, Darrel Jones wrote:
Jim,
Have you sent your harmonic dampener up for rebuild yet? I can dig out a
couple of mine if you want to ship them together. I've been cleaning
parts and hope to start assembly later this summer.
Darrel
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Newbie from SW Kansas |
| From: | "Dan P" <dlplett(at)swko.net> |
Mark, We were down there on Saturday and missed the burger bash. We became aware
of Roger's Piet when we were leaving and did spend a few minutes looking at
it.
JM, Tentatively, We plan to be there Sat morning July 10th for a final inspection
and to take care of the paper work. Then to it's new home it goes. :)
If your around come on by.
I did consider building one. But after just finishing a two year Chevelle body
off restoration I'm wore out and would rather just be flying.
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303448#303448
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Metcalfe <fmetcalf(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: homemade pitot tube? |
Yea sorry in refrigeration we-use MPT...Male....Pipe...Thread=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.c
om>=0ATo: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Mon, June 28, 2010 4:19:43 P
M=0ASubject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: homemade pitot tube?=0A=0AI believe th
ats 1/8 NPT (national pipe thread)- You can buy barb or compression fitti
ngs to fit at Ace Hardware Aircraft Supply=0ABen=0AOn 6/28/2010 8:51 AM, Fr
ank Metcalfe wrote: =0A1/8 MPT=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A__________________________
______=0AFrom: Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov>=0A>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.c
om=0A>Sent: Mon, June 28, 2010 7:51:50 AM=0A>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: R
cum =0A>=0A>Again, I refer back to Mike's installation.-
He and Jeff B. plugged =0A>their static ports with plastic plugs drilled wi
th small holes (1/16"?).=0A>=0A>Speaking of the static ports on the back of
instruments, does anyone =0A>know off the top of their head what size and
thread gauge these =0A>typically are?=0A>=0A>Thanks,=0A>Dan=0A>=0A>=0A>On 0
6/27/2010 11:03 PM, j_dunavin wrote:=0A>> -->- Pietenpol-List message pos
ted by: "j_dunavin"=0A>>=0A>> very cool! OK I was al
l worried about a $200 pitot tube.=0A>> As for the static... since it is op
en cockpit, couldn't you just leave all the static ports open? Or all run t
o one point source in the cockpit?=0A>> One less line to run?=0A>>=0A>>=0A>
>=0A>>=0A>> Read this topic online here:=0A>>=0A>> http://forums.matronics.
com/viewtopic.php?p=302773#302773=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>=0A>>
=0A>>=0A>>=0A>=0A>-- =0A>Dan Yocum=0A>Fermilab- 630.840.6509=0A>yocum@fna
l.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov=0A>"I fly because it releases my mind from
=- - - - - - The ; - - - - - - - - -Matt Drall
e, Lis=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A>=0A> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigat
or?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List=0A> hr
ef="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com=0A> href="
http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contributio
=======================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: homemade pitot tube? |
Wikipedia says that NPT, national pipe thread, is synonymous with MPT,
male pipe thread, so you're both correct.
Are you sure it's a 1/8" and not a 1/4" fitting?
I'm not sure what the builder used to seal the fittings into the
instruments, but dang! they are in there tight. It looks like some sort
of black gunk. Maybe he used epoxy, but I hope not.
Thanks!
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Another Piet roars to life! |
| From: | "899PM" <rockriverrifle(at)hotmail.com> |
After 12 years , 899PM roared to life last night for the first time! What a thrill....I
am still grinning. I posted to YouTube. Search Cushway Pietenpol if this
link does not work.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nw_Mp0-YFWQ
--------
PAPA MIKE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303467#303467
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Markle <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: homemade pitot tube? |
It's 1/8" on mine....
DO archive because I'm personally very impressed with everything I have to say
and when I'm old and hopefully can still move my walker over to the computer...I
want to read my rantings over and over and over....
sorry, I couldn't help myself...
It's 1/8" on all of my instruments.
checked out/re-packed camping gear for the Brodhead trip yesterday and out to the
workshop today to ACTUALLY work on MY Piet.....
-----Original Message-----
>From: Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov>
>Sent: Jul 2, 2010 9:10 AM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: homemade pitot tube?
>
>
>Wikipedia says that NPT, national pipe thread, is synonymous with MPT,
>male pipe thread, so you're both correct.
>
>Are you sure it's a 1/8" and not a 1/4" fitting?
>
>I'm not sure what the builder used to seal the fittings into the
>instruments, but dang! they are in there tight. It looks like some sort
>of black gunk. Maybe he used epoxy, but I hope not.
>
>Thanks!
>Dan
>
>
>--
>Dan Yocum
>Fermilab 630.840.6509
>yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
>"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Countdown has begun, Beer and Brats? |
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Countdown has begun, Beer and Brats?
Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 14:24:59 -0400
From: Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com>
I got a copy of the July BPA newsletter from Doc Mosher today, and there
is a picture of my wife and me after her first flight. I told her she
will be famous at Brodhead now. We'll be there Friday morning, but tell
me more about the Beer and Brats! Sure sounds better than boiled fish.
Ben Charvet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation]" <michael.d.cuy(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Another Piet roars to life! |
Outstanding ! Sounds wonderful and looks great. Congrats and
hope to see Papa Mike's plane at Brodhead, 2011.
So Mike Cushway sold this one right or are you Mike Cushway ? I know Mike
sold
his partially completed Sky Scout to Earl Myers which eventually made it to Dennis
(can't think of his last name)
at Bhead who eventually flew it but not sure about Mike's Air Camper project.
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another Piet roars to life! |
| From: | "899PM" <rockriverrifle(at)hotmail.com> |
Mike,
I am Mike Cushway. I bought the Sky Scout from Earl and several years later sold
it to Dennis Hall. It is now in a museum out in Washington State. I started
the Air Camper in 1997, sold it to Dick Walling during a divorce and then bought
it back( thanx to my new bride!) in 2008.
I am aiming for Brodhead 2011! Splitting my time between my 1938 Taylorcraft restoration
and the Piet. Flying the Cub this year....see ya there!
--------
PAPA MIKE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303486#303486
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim <jimboyer(at)hughes.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Piet roars to life! |
Congratulations!!! It looks and sounds good; one of these days...
Jim
Jim Boyer
Santa Rosa, CA
Pietenpol on wheels
Tail surfaces done
Wing ribs done
Corvair engine
On Jul 2, 2010, 899PM wrote:
After 12 years , 899PM roared to life last night for the first time! What a thrill....I
am still grinning. I posted to YouTube. Search Cushway Pietenpol if this
link does not work.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nw_Mp0-YFWQ
--------
PAPA MIKE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303467#303467
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another Piet roars to life! |
| From: | "j_dunavin" <j_dunavin(at)hotmail.com> |
Is that a garden hose feeding water to the engine??
Looks great by the way!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303494#303494
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another Piet roars to life! |
| From: | "899PM" <rockriverrifle(at)hotmail.com> |
Yes it is a garden hose......I almost have enough rounded up to fly my 40 mile
radius.
--------
PAPA MIKE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303497#303497
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: time is close and we are counting down |
| From: | "dgaldrich" <dgaldrich(at)embarqmail.com> |
You guys aren't talking lutefisk are you? PLEEESE say NO. My wife's family is
Norsk and I have successfully avoided the church lutefisk dinners in Milwaukee
for years by careful scheduling of work. Don't get me wrong. I love seafood
but there's something about my wife's description of making lutefisk that removes
it from the category of edible.
Sign me up for the brats and I'll bring a bunch of extra beer.
Dave Aldrich
Ribs done
Tail feathers done
Corvair engine almost done
Fuselage sides done
Wife taught to do rib stitching
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303501#303501
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Brodhead 1st Timers |
Here's some advice for all of you attending Brodhead for the first time, and
looking for your 1st ride in a Piet. I'm giving you plenty of time to
practice.
Stand in front of the mirror and work on that hang-dog, forlorn, dejected
countenance.you know.the one you used to use when your girl friend said,
"NO."
Some nice pilot will come along, like Greg Cardinal, and ask you if you want
to go for a ride that you will never forget!
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(20 ribs down.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: time is close and we are counting down |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
Yes, they sell tickets. We promptly purchased tickets for both meals as soon as
we arrived... had no idea what the meals were really about, but I'll just say
that I had to take the wife and kiddo to McDonalds after dinner. We like things
like fried catfish, lightly battered crappie, etc., but that boiled fish ball
wasn't our cut of tea.
On the other hand, the pork chop dinner on Saturday night was great!
--------
Mark Chouinard
Finishing up Wings - Working on Center Section
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303509#303509
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation]" <michael.d.cuy(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | for the record-- there is FISH on Friday at Brodhead only |
I was totally KIDDING about there being brats served by the Brodhead organizers
on
Friday night of the fly-in.
Friday night they are NOT serving brats but FISH. I was joking about the brats
at the end
of Runway 9.
I don't want the organizers of this fine event to have a bunch of people asking
about brats
when there absolutely won't be any served in the chow hangar. It will be boiled
fish and I
heard it is just delicious---like going to Red Lobster but only better.
Unless you bring your own brats, steaks, fajitas, or waffles, they are serving
fish on Friday
at Brodhead.
The breakfasts are pretty good there......makes me hungry thinking about it.
Those volunteers
REALLY bust their butts, empty trash all over the airport--they do a zillion things
for us to make
it such a carefree event.
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: time is close and we are counting down |
| From: | "Paul N. Peckham" <peckham9(at)countryspeed.com> |
Ryan is right. A fish boil is definitely not Lutefisk. It's a tradition out of
Door County, which is above Green Bay on the peninsula. Whitefish is usually
the fish used, and as I recall, they throw in red potatoes and onions. The
Brodhead bunch do a great job with the meal.
A brat on the other hand is a hotdog on steroids.
All right, enough of the cooking class. Back to the Pietenpols. Immediately!
Immediately! Harrumph! Harrumph!
Paul
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303513#303513
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave and Connie <dmatt(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: office staple gun |
Actually I would prefer to see D_O NOT ARCHIVE a bit less often. It has
appeared on a lot of posts that have very good technical information in
them. Granted, it would have been appropriate in this case.
Dave
H RULE wrote:
> You guys have to start putting in D_O NOT ARCHIVE or everything will
> go into the archives and some poor bugger looking for in info is going
> to have to go through all this stuff to find what he wants.
> D_O NOT ARCHIVE!!!!!!!
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> **
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brodhead 1st Timers |
| From: | "j_dunavin" <j_dunavin(at)hotmail.com> |
I'll be driving :(
I have never been, though and wondered if someone could post a map. Are there any
events on Sat. Or just come and enjoy? Any gate to check in at?
Looking for some details.
Thanks
Joe
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303518#303518
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brodhead 1st Timers |
| From: | "Kringle" <Mrkringles(at)msn.com> |
I've already been practicing!
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303519#303519
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brodhead 1st Timers |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
Insofar as getting to the airport, Google Maps or any of the popular online
mapping resources can map you a route if you search for directions to:
Brodhead Airport
Brodhead, WI
I took the liberty of extracting the map page from an old MAAC newsletter
from a couple years ago. This is a general map of the grounds as they were
setup for the MAAC fly-in in September of that year:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/2314248/brodheadmap.jpg
To those that will use this, please note: this is just to give you an idea
of how the airport is laid out. This is not official for this year's
Piet/Hatz fly-in. There is always the possibility that things could be
slightly rearranged, or slightly different. :P (although it will probably
be setup pretty close to this)
Ryan
On Fri, Jul 2, 2010 at 5:14 PM, j_dunavin wrote:
>
> I'll be driving :(
> I have never been, though and wondered if someone could post a map. Are
> there any events on Sat. Or just come and enjoy? Any gate to check in at?
> Looking for some details.
> Thanks
> Joe
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brodhead 1st Timers |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
You asked about events on Saturday, forgot about that. There will be various
talks (forums) given throughout the day on Saturday at the hangar next to
the pavilion with the picnic tables. The schedule is usually posted in the
BPA newsletter. Our issue hasn't showed up yet, so maybe one of the lucky
dogs that already has theirs can post up the schedule.
Other than that it is just hang out and enjoy!
Ryan
On Fri, Jul 2, 2010 at 7:33 PM, Ryan Mueller wrote:
> Insofar as getting to the airport, Google Maps or any of the popular online
> mapping resources can map you a route if you search for directions to:
>
> Brodhead Airport
> Brodhead, WI
>
> I took the liberty of extracting the map page from an old MAAC newsletter
> from a couple years ago. This is a general map of the grounds as they were
> setup for the MAAC fly-in in September of that year:
>
> http://dl.dropbox.com/u/2314248/brodheadmap.jpg
>
> To those that will use this, please note: this is just to give you an idea
> of how the airport is laid out. This is not official for this year's
> Piet/Hatz fly-in. There is always the possibility that things could be
> slightly rearranged, or slightly different. :P (although it will probably
> be setup pretty close to this)
>
> Ryan
>
>
> On Fri, Jul 2, 2010 at 5:14 PM, j_dunavin wrote:
>
>>
>> I'll be driving :(
>> I have never been, though and wondered if someone could post a map. Are
>> there any events on Sat. Or just come and enjoy? Any gate to check in at?
>> Looking for some details.
>> Thanks
>> Joe
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dknoll(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Brodhead 1st Timer |
Doc sent us a "Author's Copy" of the July 2010 Brodhead Pietenpol Association Newsletter
as it has a couple of pictures my son sent in for publication.The fourms
(7) will be hourly from 10AM to 4PM.
10AM Ken Perkins..................... "Ford engines & other items of interest"
11AM Jack Philips....................... "Piet building timeframe & Procedures"
12AM Bill Rewey.........................."Pietenpol history"
1PM Jack McCarthy..................."EAA Regulations and you"
2PM Steve Williamson..............."Building a Piet as a Chapter endeavor"
& Chapter 1279
3PM William Wynne..................."Corvair engines & other discussions"
4PM Bruce Laird,........................"The Big Piet Concept"
Harold Johnson,
& Frank Metcalfe
--
Lynn Knoll
Piet/Vair
Wichita
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Airplane plans |
| From: | "Dan P" <dlplett(at)swko.net> |
Todd, you can find the plans here. http://www.pressenter.com/~apietenp/
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303534#303534
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another Piet roars to life! |
| From: | "899PM" <rockriverrifle(at)hotmail.com> |
Lowell,
I was going to give you a call tomorrow. If you have some time next week some evening
stop by to look things over. I can not get above 1100rpm without it running
extremely rich....almost like it is choking out. This is the "B" carb that
I rebuilt. I am not sure what is wrong. As you may know the Zenith "B" has an
accelerator circuit based on throttle shaft position. I am building the carb
heat muff tomorrow. I have a great idle at 700rpm, anything less and it wants
to quit.
--------
PAPA MIKE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303537#303537
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: How to be a proper Pietenpol passenger |
For the benefit of the new guys around here...........
Seven steps to becoming a proper Pietenpol passenger-
Step #1 - Left foot on tire, one hand on each cabane........
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Step #2 Head and shoulders go all the way through the cockpit as you
step in with your right foot.........
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Step#3 - Put on your seatbelt, goggles and earplugs.........
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Step #4 - Relax and get ready to enjoy your flight...........
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Step #5 - Enjoy the pretty, rural towns from the air...........
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Step #6 - After landing, thank your pilot for a nice
flight.............
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Step #7 - Tell the world what you think of Pietenpols!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brodhead 1st Timers |
| From: | "j_dunavin" <j_dunavin(at)hotmail.com> |
OOO the schedule is up on Facebook!
10AM Ken Perkins.............."Ford engines & other items of interest"
11AM Jack Philips..............."Piet building timeframe & Procedures"
12AM Bill Rewey................"Pietenpol history"
PM Jack McCarthy............"EAA Regulations and you"
2PM Steve Williamson........"Building a Piet as a Chapter endeavor" & Chapter 1279
3PM William Wynne............"Corvair engines & other discussions"
4PM Bruce Laird,................"The Big Piet Concept" Harold Johnson & Frank Metcalfe
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303545#303545
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brodhead 1st Timers |
| From: | "John Recine" <amsafetyc(at)aol.com> |
No gate check in but bring cash for the tent check in with Doc. You will definitely
want to join the BPA. Doc and company do a great job and the news letter
is full of great info and pictures of many of your new friends. For a few minutes
and some modest bucks you'll get more than your moneys worth.
John
------Original Message------
From: j_dunavin
Sender: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: Pietenpol builders Board
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Brodhead 1st Timers
Sent: Jul 2, 2010 6:14 PM
I'll be driving :(
I have never been, though and wondered if someone could post a map. Are there any
events on Sat. Or just come and enjoy? Any gate to check in at?
Looking for some details.
Thanks
Joe
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303518#303518
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Hofmann <jhofmann(at)reesgroupinc.com> |
I should have shirts available online in the next few days. I will be
adding this and a couple other ideas. I will probably also update some
of last year's stuff as well. Sorry for the shameless plug.
-john-
John Hofmann
Vice-President, Information Technology
The Rees Group, Inc.
2424 American Lane
Madison, WI 53704
Phone: 608.443.2468 ext 150
Fax: 608.443.2474
Email: jhofmann(at)reesgroupinc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Brodhead 1st Timers |
| From: | "j_dunavin" <j_dunavin(at)hotmail.com> |
how much is the newsletter?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303569#303569
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
I like it! I'll buy at least one.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Hofmann
Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 9:48 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Coming Soon!
I should have shirts available online in the next few days. I will be adding
this and a couple other ideas. I will probably also update some of last
year's stuff as well. Sorry for the shameless plug.
-john-
John Hofmann
Vice-President, Information Technology
The Rees Group, Inc.
2424 American Lane
Madison, WI 53704
Phone: 608.443.2468 ext 150
Fax: 608.443.2474
Email: jhofmann(at)reesgroupinc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Brodhead 1st Timers |
http://www.pietenpols.org/
...has all the info.
Ryan Mueller
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 3, 2010, at 9:07 AM, "j_dunavin" wrote:
>
> how much is the newsletter?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303569#303569
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | lower radiator on Scout |
The radiator on the Sky Scout that is featured on the cover of the
July BPA Newsletter has the radiator down below and in front of the
engine. Why isn't that done on other Pietenpols? I know that there is
a theoretical advantage due to thermal cycling, but does it turn out
that that makes a difference in the real world?
--
Jeff Boatright
"Now let's think about this..."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <dknoll(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Brodhead Pietenpol Association |
Quote from June 26, 2010 letter from Doc and Dee Mosher, Editors BPA News: "We
now have over 750 members, so this News-Letter is getting out to a lot of people."
We all owe Doc & Dee a vote of thanks for their hard work in making the BPA Newsletter
an outstanding publication.
Lynn Knoll
Wichita
Piet/Vair on the gear
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
I have collected almost as many articles on mechanical fuel gauges as I have
on wiring diagrams!! One of the common topics was what kind of float to use.
Most have probable seen the one that went from Axe deodorant cans to WD40
cans.
No doubt, all the ideas work, but I have been stuck on good, old-fashioned
cork.
This was an easy internet search, and the cork is very cheap (unfortunately,
the shipping is not!).
http://www.corkstore.com/compass/servlet/WBServlet?webfunctionid=web.checkou
t
<http://www.corkstore.com/compass/servlet/WBServlet?webfunctionid=web.checko
ut&action=ok&time=13:50:04&quicksearch>
&action=ok&time=13:50:04&quicksearch=
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(20 ribs down.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | lower radiator on Scout |
The radiator on the Sky Scout that is featured on the cover of the
July BPA Newsletter has the radiator down below and in front of the
engine. Why isn't that done on other Pietenpols? I know that there is
a theoretical advantage due to thermal cycling, but does it turn out
that that makes a difference in the real world?
--
Jeff Boatright
"Now let's think about this..."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com> |
So, we got the cylinder installed and she fired right up and the pressure came
up to 40 on the gauge That was nice. So, we took off, the air temp was a nice
80. 10 minutes and the pressure was 35. Ten more and it hit 30. I set up to
land, pulled it back to 1300rpm and the pressure dropped to 15. This doesn't look
good. We park and head for the computer We log on to the mooney mite site
and verify that idle pressure of 10 psi is acceptable. Ok, we go back outside
and I get my excercise for the day, crankin' away. C'mon, ole girl, we're far
from home and I gotta get back for a family event.
Pock-i-ta. Pock-I-ta. Pockitapockitapockitarumblerumblerumble. Ok, good. I was
getting tired. Thanks for starting.
Oil pressure looks good at 35, again. Let's go. 10 more minutes. 30psi. 5 more.
28 psi. Hm.... Pull her back to 1300rpm, 15psi again. Land, taxi back and the
pressure is at 5psi. Well, ole girl, I'd love to stay and chat but I've got
miles to go, so let's talk about this again in a few days.
During all this the oil temp only got up to 70 on the gauge, and even after we
landed it didn't shoot up when the air flow went down, so maybe that gauge or
probe is going bad.
But this oil pressure - what do you A65 drivers get during a warm day at cruise
speeds?
Thanks
Dan
--
yocum(at)gmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com> |
Ryan asked what weight oil I use - W100 Plus is the answer.
--
yocum(at)gmail.com
On Jul 3, 2010, at 3:41 PM, Dan Yocum wrote:
>
> So, we got the cylinder installed and she fired right up and the pressure came
up to 40 on the gauge That was nice. So, we took off, the air temp was a nice
80. 10 minutes and the pressure was 35. Ten more and it hit 30. I set up to
land, pulled it back to 1300rpm and the pressure dropped to 15. This doesn't
look good. We park and head for the computer We log on to the mooney mite site
and verify that idle pressure of 10 psi is acceptable. Ok, we go back outside
and I get my excercise for the day, crankin' away. C'mon, ole girl, we're far
from home and I gotta get back for a family event.
>
> Pock-i-ta. Pock-I-ta. Pockitapockitapockitarumblerumblerumble. Ok, good. I was
getting tired. Thanks for starting.
>
> Oil pressure looks good at 35, again. Let's go. 10 more minutes. 30psi. 5 more.
28 psi. Hm.... Pull her back to 1300rpm, 15psi again. Land, taxi back and
the pressure is at 5psi. Well, ole girl, I'd love to stay and chat but I've got
miles to go, so let's talk about this again in a few days.
>
> During all this the oil temp only got up to 70 on the gauge, and even after we
landed it didn't shoot up when the air flow went down, so maybe that gauge or
probe is going bad.
>
> But this oil pressure - what do you A65 drivers get during a warm day at cruise
speeds?
>
> Thanks
> Dan
>
> --
> yocum(at)gmail.com
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
What pressures were you running prior to the cylinder repair?
--
Jeff Boatright
"Now let's think about this..."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
| From: | "Don Emch" <EmchAir(at)aol.com> |
Hmmm... Not good Dan. I know the manual says 10 psi at idle is okay, but they
usually will hold at least 30 psi at idle. Since it's dropping after a few minutes
is probably a sign that there is excess clearance at the crank bearings
or in the cam journals. There are some band-aid ideas out there like trying to
increase the pressure at the pressure relief spring to try to build up more
oil pressure, but unfortunately the problem most likely lies in either the bearings
or the cam journals. I feel for ya. Not a happy thing. How much time
does the lower end have on it? It would be worth mounting another gauge just
to double check. For what it's worth, I see 35 or so at almost all operating
rpms, temperatures and oil weights.
Good Luck Dan!
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303614#303614
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
It's twue, it's twue....it flew, it flew:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKzcnDN6KO0
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKzcnDN6KO0>Sorry for the quality/wind
noise. Spur of the moment, and first time shooting, editing, and uploading
from the phone.
Ryan
On Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 3:41 PM, Dan Yocum wrote:
>
> So, we got the cylinder installed and she fired right up and the pressure
> came up to 40 on the gauge That was nice. So, we took off, the air temp was
> a nice 80. 10 minutes and the pressure was 35. Ten more and it hit 30. I
> set up to land, pulled it back to 1300rpm and the pressure dropped to 15.
> This doesn't look good. We park and head for the computer We log on to the
> mooney mite site and verify that idle pressure of 10 psi is acceptable. Ok,
> we go back outside and I get my excercise for the day, crankin' away. C'mon,
> ole girl, we're far from home and I gotta get back for a family event.
>
> Pock-i-ta. Pock-I-ta. Pockitapockitapockitarumblerumblerumble. Ok, good. I
> was getting tired. Thanks for starting.
>
> Oil pressure looks good at 35, again. Let's go. 10 more minutes. 30psi. 5
> more. 28 psi. Hm.... Pull her back to 1300rpm, 15psi again. Land, taxi back
> and the pressure is at 5psi. Well, ole girl, I'd love to stay and chat but
> I've got miles to go, so let's talk about this again in a few days.
>
> During all this the oil temp only got up to 70 on the gauge, and even after
> we landed it didn't shoot up when the air flow went down, so maybe that
> gauge or probe is going bad.
>
> But this oil pressure - what do you A65 drivers get during a warm day at
> cruise speeds?
>
> Thanks
> Dan
>
> --
> yocum(at)gmail.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com> |
Hey Don,
Thanks for the insight. Everything was normal until I replaced the #4 cylinder
- pressures in the thirties even when idling, even after flying an hour or more.
What could adding this one "new" cylinder do to cause this problem?
This "new" cylinder is just a yellow tag cylinder from off the shelf at Poplar
Grove. 0.015 over, same as the old cyl.
The engine logs are incomplete from before '65, but it was estimated that it had
400hrs when it was overhauled, then. Its been another 320 hours SMOH.
It sat idle between '67 and '80 and it led an easy life until '08 when the former
owner bought it and put 180 hours on it.
Dan
--
yocum(at)gmail.com
On Jul 3, 2010, at 4:18 PM, "Don Emch" wrote:
>
> Hmmm... Not good Dan. I know the manual says 10 psi at idle is okay, but they
usually will hold at least 30 psi at idle. Since it's dropping after a few
minutes is probably a sign that there is excess clearance at the crank bearings
or in the cam journals. There are some band-aid ideas out there like trying
to increase the pressure at the pressure relief spring to try to build up more
oil pressure, but unfortunately the problem most likely lies in either the bearings
or the cam journals. I feel for ya. Not a happy thing. How much time
does the lower end have on it? It would be worth mounting another gauge just
to double check. For what it's worth, I see 35 or so at almost all operating
rpms, temperatures and oil weights.
>
> Good Luck Dan!
>
> Don Emch
> NX899DE
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
Dan,
Did you plastigage the rod bearings?
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(20 ribs down.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Yocum
Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 3:50 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure?
Hey Don,
Thanks for the insight. Everything was normal until I replaced the #4
cylinder - pressures in the thirties even when idling, even after flying an
hour or more. What could adding this one "new" cylinder do to cause this
problem?
This "new" cylinder is just a yellow tag cylinder from off the shelf at
Poplar Grove. 0.015 over, same as the old cyl.
The engine logs are incomplete from before '65, but it was estimated that it
had 400hrs when it was overhauled, then. Its been another 320 hours SMOH.
It sat idle between '67 and '80 and it led an easy life until '08 when the
former owner bought it and put 180 hours on it.
Dan
--
yocum(at)gmail.com
On Jul 3, 2010, at 4:18 PM, "Don Emch" wrote:
>
> Hmmm... Not good Dan. I know the manual says 10 psi at idle is okay, but
they usually will hold at least 30 psi at idle. Since it's dropping after a
few minutes is probably a sign that there is excess clearance at the crank
bearings or in the cam journals. There are some band-aid ideas out there
like trying to increase the pressure at the pressure relief spring to try to
build up more oil pressure, but unfortunately the problem most likely lies
in either the bearings or the cam journals. I feel for ya. Not a happy
thing. How much time does the lower end have on it? It would be worth
mounting another gauge just to double check. For what it's worth, I see 35
or so at almost all operating rpms, temperatures and oil weights.
>
> Good Luck Dan!
>
> Don Emch
> NX899DE
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com> |
--
yocum(at)gmail.com
On Jul 3, 2010, at 6:05 PM, Gary Boothe wrote:
>
> Dan,
>
> Did you plastigage the rod bearings?
>
> Gary Boothe
> Cool, Ca.
> Pietenpol
> WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
> Tail done, Fuselage on gear
> (20 ribs down.)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Yocum
> Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 3:50 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure?
>
>
> Hey Don,
>
> Thanks for the insight. Everything was normal until I replaced the #4
> cylinder - pressures in the thirties even when idling, even after flying an
> hour or more. What could adding this one "new" cylinder do to cause this
> problem?
>
> This "new" cylinder is just a yellow tag cylinder from off the shelf at
> Poplar Grove. 0.015 over, same as the old cyl.
>
> The engine logs are incomplete from before '65, but it was estimated that it
> had 400hrs when it was overhauled, then. Its been another 320 hours SMOH.
>
> It sat idle between '67 and '80 and it led an easy life until '08 when the
> former owner bought it and put 180 hours on it.
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> --
> yocum(at)gmail.com
>
> On Jul 3, 2010, at 4:18 PM, "Don Emch" wrote:
>
>>
>> Hmmm... Not good Dan. I know the manual says 10 psi at idle is okay, but
> they usually will hold at least 30 psi at idle. Since it's dropping after a
> few minutes is probably a sign that there is excess clearance at the crank
> bearings or in the cam journals. There are some band-aid ideas out there
> like trying to increase the pressure at the pressure relief spring to try to
> build up more oil pressure, but unfortunately the problem most likely lies
> in either the bearings or the cam journals. I feel for ya. Not a happy
> thing. How much time does the lower end have on it? It would be worth
> mounting another gauge just to double check. For what it's worth, I see 35
> or so at almost all operating rpms, temperatures and oil weights.
>>
>> Good Luck Dan!
>>
>> Don Emch
>> NX899DE
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com> |
Oops. Hit send too fast. Still, I'll google plastigage when I get home and off
the iPhone.
I grabbed the piston rod and tried to wiggle it in and out, perpendicular to the
shaft. No wiggle. A little wiggle parallel to the shaft, but my A&P says that
was OK.
Dan
--
yocum(at)gmail.com
On Jul 3, 2010, at 6:05 PM, Gary Boothe wrote:
>
> Dan,
>
> Did you plastigage the rod bearings?
>
> Gary Boothe
> Cool, Ca.
> Pietenpol
> WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
> Tail done, Fuselage on gear
> (20 ribs down.)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Yocum
> Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 3:50 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure?
>
>
> Hey Don,
>
> Thanks for the insight. Everything was normal until I replaced the #4
> cylinder - pressures in the thirties even when idling, even after flying an
> hour or more. What could adding this one "new" cylinder do to cause this
> problem?
>
> This "new" cylinder is just a yellow tag cylinder from off the shelf at
> Poplar Grove. 0.015 over, same as the old cyl.
>
> The engine logs are incomplete from before '65, but it was estimated that it
> had 400hrs when it was overhauled, then. Its been another 320 hours SMOH.
>
> It sat idle between '67 and '80 and it led an easy life until '08 when the
> former owner bought it and put 180 hours on it.
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> --
> yocum(at)gmail.com
>
> On Jul 3, 2010, at 4:18 PM, "Don Emch" wrote:
>
>>
>> Hmmm... Not good Dan. I know the manual says 10 psi at idle is okay, but
> they usually will hold at least 30 psi at idle. Since it's dropping after a
> few minutes is probably a sign that there is excess clearance at the crank
> bearings or in the cam journals. There are some band-aid ideas out there
> like trying to increase the pressure at the pressure relief spring to try to
> build up more oil pressure, but unfortunately the problem most likely lies
> in either the bearings or the cam journals. I feel for ya. Not a happy
> thing. How much time does the lower end have on it? It would be worth
> mounting another gauge just to double check. For what it's worth, I see 35
> or so at almost all operating rpms, temperatures and oil weights.
>>
>> Good Luck Dan!
>>
>> Don Emch
>> NX899DE
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: How to be a proper Pietenpol passenger |
| From: | "Dan P" <dlplett(at)swko.net> |
The nimble petite passengers make it look so easy.
Others have a more difficult time. :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exLPpG73BWA
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303628#303628
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
Dan,
I may have presumed too much, as I really don't know what your issue was.
Just assuming that you would change the bearings when you replaced the
cylinder and piston, but maybe you just changed out the cylinder.
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(20 ribs down.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Yocum
Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 4:23 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure?
Oops. Hit send too fast. Still, I'll google plastigage when I get home and
off the iPhone.
I grabbed the piston rod and tried to wiggle it in and out, perpendicular to
the shaft. No wiggle. A little wiggle parallel to the shaft, but my A&P says
that was OK.
Dan
--
yocum(at)gmail.com
On Jul 3, 2010, at 6:05 PM, Gary Boothe wrote:
>
> Dan,
>
> Did you plastigage the rod bearings?
>
> Gary Boothe
> Cool, Ca.
> Pietenpol
> WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
> Tail done, Fuselage on gear
> (20 ribs down.)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Yocum
> Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 3:50 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure?
>
>
> Hey Don,
>
> Thanks for the insight. Everything was normal until I replaced the #4
> cylinder - pressures in the thirties even when idling, even after flying
an
> hour or more. What could adding this one "new" cylinder do to cause this
> problem?
>
> This "new" cylinder is just a yellow tag cylinder from off the shelf at
> Poplar Grove. 0.015 over, same as the old cyl.
>
> The engine logs are incomplete from before '65, but it was estimated that
it
> had 400hrs when it was overhauled, then. Its been another 320 hours SMOH.
>
> It sat idle between '67 and '80 and it led an easy life until '08 when the
> former owner bought it and put 180 hours on it.
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> --
> yocum(at)gmail.com
>
> On Jul 3, 2010, at 4:18 PM, "Don Emch" wrote:
>
>>
>> Hmmm... Not good Dan. I know the manual says 10 psi at idle is okay, but
> they usually will hold at least 30 psi at idle. Since it's dropping after
a
> few minutes is probably a sign that there is excess clearance at the crank
> bearings or in the cam journals. There are some band-aid ideas out there
> like trying to increase the pressure at the pressure relief spring to try
to
> build up more oil pressure, but unfortunately the problem most likely lies
> in either the bearings or the cam journals. I feel for ya. Not a happy
> thing. How much time does the lower end have on it? It would be worth
> mounting another gauge just to double check. For what it's worth, I see
35
> or so at almost all operating rpms, temperatures and oil weights.
>>
>> Good Luck Dan!
>>
>> Don Emch
>> NX899DE
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
Gary,
Yes, they just changed out a cylinder. Generally speaking, unless the
rod felt sloppy on the crank or gave some indication of significant
wear, you don't remove the rod from the crankshaft when changing a
cylinder. Pop the jug off, rework or repair, and reinstall.
Ryan Mueller
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 3, 2010, at 6:58 PM, "Gary Boothe" wrote:
>
> Dan,
>
> I may have presumed too much, as I really don't know what your issue was.
> Just assuming that you would change the bearings when you replaced the
> cylinder and piston, but maybe you just changed out the cylinder.
>
> Gary Boothe
> Cool, Ca.
> Pietenpol
> WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
> Tail done, Fuselage on gear
> (20 ribs down.)
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Yocum
> Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 4:23 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure?
>
>
> Oops. Hit send too fast. Still, I'll google plastigage when I get home and
> off the iPhone.
>
> I grabbed the piston rod and tried to wiggle it in and out, perpendicular to
> the shaft. No wiggle. A little wiggle parallel to the shaft, but my A&P says
> that was OK.
>
> Dan
>
> --
> yocum(at)gmail.com
>
> On Jul 3, 2010, at 6:05 PM, Gary Boothe wrote:
>
>>
>> Dan,
>>
>> Did you plastigage the rod bearings?
>>
>> Gary Boothe
>> Cool, Ca.
>> Pietenpol
>> WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
>> Tail done, Fuselage on gear
>> (20 ribs down.)
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Yocum
>> Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 3:50 PM
>> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure?
>>
>>
>> Hey Don,
>>
>> Thanks for the insight. Everything was normal until I replaced the #4
>> cylinder - pressures in the thirties even when idling, even after flying
> an
>> hour or more. What could adding this one "new" cylinder do to cause this
>> problem?
>>
>> This "new" cylinder is just a yellow tag cylinder from off the shelf at
>> Poplar Grove. 0.015 over, same as the old cyl.
>>
>> The engine logs are incomplete from before '65, but it was estimated that
> it
>> had 400hrs when it was overhauled, then. Its been another 320 hours SMOH.
>>
>> It sat idle between '67 and '80 and it led an easy life until '08 when the
>> former owner bought it and put 180 hours on it.
>>
>> Dan
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> yocum(at)gmail.com
>>
>> On Jul 3, 2010, at 4:18 PM, "Don Emch" wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Hmmm... Not good Dan. I know the manual says 10 psi at idle is okay, but
>> they usually will hold at least 30 psi at idle. Since it's dropping after
> a
>> few minutes is probably a sign that there is excess clearance at the crank
>> bearings or in the cam journals. There are some band-aid ideas out there
>> like trying to increase the pressure at the pressure relief spring to try
> to
>> build up more oil pressure, but unfortunately the problem most likely lies
>> in either the bearings or the cam journals. I feel for ya. Not a happy
>> thing. How much time does the lower end have on it? It would be worth
>> mounting another gauge just to double check. For what it's worth, I see
> 35
>> or so at almost all operating rpms, temperatures and oil weights.
>>>
>>> Good Luck Dan!
>>>
>>> Don Emch
>>> NX899DE
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another Piet roars to life! |
| From: | "899PM" <rockriverrifle(at)hotmail.com> |
Lowell,
I pulled the accelerator pickup tube out of the "B" carb today. It was designed
to give an extra shot of fuel when quickly stepping on the gas(in a car). I suspected
that this was what was excessively richening the mixture at sustained
full throttle application yesterday. I ran the engine varying between 700 and
1000rpm for about 10 minutes today, then opened it up for a few seconds. I was
very happy to see 1860rpms static! This is with the stock cast iron head, the
"B" carb and a "B" cam.
--------
PAPA MIKE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303643#303643
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another Piet roars to life! |
| From: | "Pieti Lowell" <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com> |
The RPM will get you up, and after she gets a few hours the idle will lower.
Keep up the running.
If you get a chance try 100 Oct. to see if any thing changes.
My Ford runs cleaner with 100 but RPM is the same.
The water pump that Douwe used is the same one that I have installed, I'm not happy
with the RPM yet, with a 2 Inch driven. the temp got up to 190 at full throttle,
I will check belt slip. and then try a 1-3/4" would like to see if it
makes a difference.
Pieti Lowell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303646#303646
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Coming Soon! |
| From: | "echobravo4" <eab4(at)comcast.net> |
Those are great!
sign me up too!
--------
Earl Brown
I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I
intended to be.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303648#303648
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Matthew VanDervort <matthew.vandervort(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Coming Soon! |
Where at online? The Girly and I both want one!
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 3, 2010, at 9:48 AM, John Hofmann wrote:
> I should have shirts available online in the next few days. I will be addi
ng this and a couple other ideas. I will probably also update some of last y
ear's stuff as well. Sorry for the shameless plug.
>
> -john-
>
> John Hofmann
> Vice-President, Information Technology
> The Rees Group, Inc.
> 2424 American Lane
> Madison, WI 53704
> Phone: 608.443.2468 ext 150
> Fax: 608.443.2474
> Email: jhofmann(at)reesgroupinc.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
Hi Dan,
The oil pressure on NX18235 is very consistently 35-40 psi from idle to
cruise. This is using Aeroshell 100W.
Greg Cardinal
From: "Dan Yocum" <yocum137(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: New cylinder - low oil pressure?
>
> But this oil pressure - what do you A65 drivers get during a warm day at
> cruise speeds?
>
> Thanks
> Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
| From: | "Don Emch" <EmchAir(at)aol.com> |
Dan,
That sure is strange. I can't imagine how swapping cylinders would do that. Did
you do or change anything else? Remove and reinstall anything else? Oil tank?
Rear accessory case? Kinda digging here.
Don
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303660#303660
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
| From: | "skellytown flyer" <skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com> |
Dan you might try cleaning the screen- it is possible it was on the edge of being
clogged and pulling the cylinder loosened up enough sludge and carbon to fall
in the engine and it migrated to what openings were left in it and closed it
off.good luck. I have heard of even pouring a couple quarts of avgas into the
case and letting it soak-I wouldn't be afraid to leave it overnight and then
drain it and re-fill the sump and try it.might save you a few hours work. Raymond
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303661#303661
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
I agree with Don. The only thing I don't like about the small Continentals
is that the camshaft bearings are simply bored out in the aluminum crankcase
with no proper bearings installed. The first warning sign that you need an
overhaul is usually oil pressure dropping with temperature.
My A65 gets 35 psi oil pressure at all speeds unless it is very hot, at
which the idle pressure drops to about 25, running Aeroshell Oil W 100. I
tthink W100+ is a multi-viscosity oil and you might get a little pressure
back with straight 50 weight.
As for mounting another gage, that could be a very good idea. On the way to
Sun 'n' Fun this year, my oil pressure gage went bad. It would indicate 35
psi pretty much anytime, even when the engine was shut down. It had always
been very slow to come up to pressure on engine startup, which I attributed
to the long distance between the engine and the gage in the rear cockpit. I
bought a new gage at SNF and it works much better, showing pressure almost
immediately after startup and still indicating 35 psi during flight. It
might be worth hooking up a borrowed gage and see if you read the same
pressures.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don Emch
Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 5:19 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure?
Hmmm... Not good Dan. I know the manual says 10 psi at idle is okay, but
they usually will hold at least 30 psi at idle. Since it's dropping after a
few minutes is probably a sign that there is excess clearance at the crank
bearings or in the cam journals. There are some band-aid ideas out there
like trying to increase the pressure at the pressure relief spring to try to
build up more oil pressure, but unfortunately the problem most likely lies
in either the bearings or the cam journals. I feel for ya. Not a happy
thing. How much time does the lower end have on it? It would be worth
mounting another gauge just to double check. For what it's worth, I see 35
or so at almost all operating rpms, temperatures and oil weights.
Good Luck Dan!
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303614#303614
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Coming Soon! |
| From: | "GliderMike" <glidermikeg(at)yahoo.com> |
John, I want shirts also.
Jeff, how about substituting "Low and Slow" for "Uncomfortable?" I'm having enough
trouble selling a Piet to my wife as is, without promising "Uncomfortable."
[Wink]
Max, I thought we were supposed to avoid politics here. I like the guy from Chicago.
I like the guy from Arizona too, but I didn't and still don't like the
girl from up North.
--------
HOMEBUILDER
Will WORK for Spruce
Long flights, smooth air, and soft landings,
GliderMike, aka Mike Glasgow
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303672#303672
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
Thanks everyone, for the fantastic insight. Jerry sent me a note
offlist that I think we're going to try first: it's possible some crud
got into relief valve plunger so it's not seating correctly. Should be
an easy thing to check. We're also going to check the temp gauge, too.
When we pulled the cylinder we changed the oil and cleaned the screen,
so that should be clean.
I'll let you know what we find.
Thanks,
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Coming Soon! |
Mike,
Even worse - one of my versions replaced "Route of" with "Low, Slow";
replaced "The" with "And"; replaced "Pacemakers" with "Socially
Unacceptable", so it reads "Low, Slow, and Socially Unacceptable."
Jeff
>
>
>Jeff, how about substituting "Low and Slow" for "Uncomfortable?"
>I'm having enough trouble selling a Piet to my wife as is, without
>promising "Uncomfortable." [Wink]
--
Jeff Boatright
"Now let's think about this..."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
Ok, this is just a thought, but it it possible that when you pulled the
cylinder and the pushrods that one of the pushrod sockets came out of
the lifter and is sitting sideways in the assembly. Are your valve
clearances at specification? I can't think of any other reason to lose
oil pressure if you didn't remove your connecting rod too. I know that
I had a similar problem removing a cylinder before. It is possible to
get the pushrod socket back into the lifter body without removing the
cylinder again, but it takes some doing. Let us know what you find. I
just rebuilt my A-65, and had 40 PSI prior to the rebuild and a solid 35
PSI afterwards, but it holds 35 PSI at all speeds and temps.
Ben
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC Aerospace Corporation]" <michael.d.cuy(at)nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
Couple of thoughts. Try purging the capillary tubing that carries the oil to
the gauge with oil
to get any air pockets out, reconnect.
Another gauge to compare with is a good idea.
In addition to the wear of the camshaft journals and crank journals you might have
wear starting in
the oil pump gear housing. The oil pump gear shafts go thru the aluminum alloy
housing and wear over
time. I've heard of these being rebushed (they have no bushings to begin with
like the cam journals)
or finding an accessory case that isn't worn and then installing new oil pump gears.
I'm seeing a slow erosion of my oil pressure in the past few years but it was never
that sudden like
you're experiencing.
Mike C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Coming Soon! |
| From: | "GliderMike" <glidermikeg(at)yahoo.com> |
I thought the reference was about someone who doesn't live in Chicago any more.
I agree Daley is definitely an enemy of GA, and there probably aren't many if
any who would disagree. I don't recall ever seeing a photo of Daley, and if
I have, I probably blocked it from my mind.
Enough of the politics. I apologize for making political comments :D
--------
HOMEBUILDER
Will WORK for Spruce
Long flights, smooth air, and soft landings,
GliderMike, aka Mike Glasgow
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303691#303691
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
| From: | "Don Emch" <EmchAir(at)aol.com> |
Dan and Mike,
I just had the rear accessory case on my Chief A-65 rebushed and it is working
out great. If you rule out other things, it really isn't too hard to check your
clearances there as long as you have the correct tools.
As far as the gauge goes... A couple of evenings ago I flew over to Barber Airport
to visit with Frank Pavliga. He said he had been flying earlier in the day.
Shortly after takeoff the oil pressure on his Lambert dropped by 20 psi.
He quickly turned around and landed. Upon shutting down the engine the needle
on the gauge indicated -20 psi. He took the gauge apart and found that the needle
had indeed come loose on its little shaft. It's possible but it doesn't
quite sound like your problem.
Anyway, let us know how the cleaning goes...
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303698#303698
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lagowski Morrow" <jimdeb(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
I get ~35 psi-Jim Lagowski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Yocum" <yocum137(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 03, 2010 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: New cylinder - low oil pressure?
>
> Ryan asked what weight oil I use - W100 Plus is the answer.
>
> --
> yocum(at)gmail.com
>
> On Jul 3, 2010, at 3:41 PM, Dan Yocum wrote:
>
>>
>> So, we got the cylinder installed and she fired right up and the pressure
>> came up to 40 on the gauge That was nice. So, we took off, the air temp
>> was a nice 80. 10 minutes and the pressure was 35. Ten more and it hit
>> 30. I set up to land, pulled it back to 1300rpm and the pressure dropped
>> to 15. This doesn't look good. We park and head for the computer We log
>> on to the mooney mite site and verify that idle pressure of 10 psi is
>> acceptable. Ok, we go back outside and I get my excercise for the day,
>> crankin' away. C'mon, ole girl, we're far from home and I gotta get back
>> for a family event.
>>
>> Pock-i-ta. Pock-I-ta. Pockitapockitapockitarumblerumblerumble. Ok, good.
>> I was getting tired. Thanks for starting.
>>
>> Oil pressure looks good at 35, again. Let's go. 10 more minutes. 30psi. 5
>> more. 28 psi. Hm.... Pull her back to 1300rpm, 15psi again. Land, taxi
>> back and the pressure is at 5psi. Well, ole girl, I'd love to stay and
>> chat but I've got miles to go, so let's talk about this again in a few
>> days.
>>
>> During all this the oil temp only got up to 70 on the gauge, and even
>> after we landed it didn't shoot up when the air flow went down, so maybe
>> that gauge or probe is going bad.
>>
>> But this oil pressure - what do you A65 drivers get during a warm day at
>> cruise speeds?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Dan
>>
>> --
>> yocum(at)gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | lower radiator on Scout |
The radiator on the Sky Scout that is featured on the cover of the
July BPA Newsletter has the radiator down below and in front of the
engine. Why isn't that done on other Pietenpols? I know that there is
a theoretical advantage due to thermal cycling, but does it turn out
that that makes a difference in the real world?
--
Jeff Boatright
"Now let's think about this..."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Coming Soon! |
| From: | "GliderMike" <glidermikeg(at)yahoo.com> |
It isn't a new thing, but I like the BPA logo as shown on their webpage. I think
this links without filling in a link box. If not, for the new folks, you can
do a cut and paste. Doc puts together a nice newsletter. At $16 a year, or
$30 for two years, it is a good deal.
I'm not sure if the logo from the home page will paste, and I don't want to do
copyright infringement stuff, so I will give credit to the Brodhead Pietenpol
Association since it is their logo.
pietlogo.gif
http://www.pietenpols.org/
--------
HOMEBUILDER
Will WORK for Spruce
Long flights, smooth air, and soft landings,
GliderMike, aka Mike Glasgow
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303706#303706
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com> |
Ray made another suggestion off list which tickled my thought process: after draining
the oil 2 weeks ago I didn't refill it. Could gunk have collected and compacted
in the screen at the bottom of the suction tube?
Maybe another quick thing to check if the relief valve isn't the culprit...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com> |
I failed to mention that I got a consistent 35-40psi before the cylinder change,
too.
--
yocum(at)gmail.com
On Jul 4, 2010, at 6:03 AM, "Greg Cardinal" wrote:
>
> Hi Dan,
>
> The oil pressure on NX18235 is very consistently 35-40 psi from idle to cruise.
This is using Aeroshell 100W.
>
> Greg Cardinal
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Coming Soon! |
| From: | "Dan P" <dlplett(at)swko.net> |
Gary, Not here at KLBL. When I announced I bought a Piet I was meet with big
grins and a "Cool, when can we see it?" The word traveled fast. Now I have pilots
coming up and asking me about it.
How about changing the logo on the Brodhead website from "Low and Slow since 1929"
to "Looking down on people since 1929. [Mr. Green]
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303715#303715
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
It is a rare thing, but I have seen this happen after an engine (A65) had
been overhauled or had internal work done..
The cause of low oil pressure was, in both cases, a bit of debris unseating
the oil pressure relief valve. The relief valve plunger was removed and the
seat area in the crankcase was cleaned. Then the plunger and spring were
re-installed. Voila! Problem solved.
Since your oil pressure was OK before the cylinder change, maybe this is the
cause of the problem. I hope so.
Cheers,
Graham Hansen Pietenpol CF-AUN in Alberta, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | lower radiator on Scout |
Jeff;
The only reason I've ever seen for mounting the
radiator up high is for thermal efficiency. The
water pump is drawing in the coolest water from
the bottom of the radiator, with positive head
into the pump. The hottest water then goes into
the top of the radiator and any air or steam is
at the highest point in the system.
With the radiator down low, you're pushing the
hot water down to the radiator and pulling it
back up... exactly the opposite of the natural
flow of things (heat rises; cool sinks). Not
to mention that if the water is hot leaving the
radiator, the water pump suction will flash it
to steam and then you have cavitation and steam
in the system.
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: lower radiator on Scout |
Oscar,
Thanks much. This is what I also figure is happening, but I wonder if
it makes a difference operationally. First, have water pumps failed
in Piets, yet they were able to continue because of the thermal
efficiency/natural flow? Conversely, has the water pump failed on the
Scout more often than on the Air Camper, possibly from having to work
harder?
Just noodling while avoiding work....
Jeff
--
Jeff Boatright
"Now let's think about this..."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wayne Bressler <wayne(at)taildraggersinc.com> |
| Subject: | OT :: Markle Airport |
I noticed this evening, a little grass strip on the New York sectional
called Markle Airport, in Phillipsburg, NJ, 2NJ6.
Owned by one Raymond Markle, the field is a comfortable 2200' long by
65' wide, and is practically right on the Delaware river.
Is this a relative of our very own Jim Markle? Seems the airplane bug
has bitten more than one "Markle" over the years. :)
Wayne Bressler Jr.
Taildraggers, Inc.
taildraggersinc.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Getting in the Front Seat with the Dreaded Cross Wires |
| From: | "kevinpurtee" <kevin.purtee(at)us.army.mil> |
We went to a fly-in at Ranger, TX last month. Lots of fun. A couple of EAA 59
guys from Waco took some pictures of me getting in the front seat. The photos
made it into their newsletter. Proof that it can be done, for what it's worth.
--------
Kevin Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303733#303733
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Getting in the Front Seat with the Dreaded Cross Wires |
| From: | "kevinpurtee" <kevin.purtee(at)us.army.mil> |
Sorry. Learning about file sizes. Here it is, hopefully.
--------
Kevin Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303734#303734
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/page_7_of_wacos_june_10_newsletter_206.gif
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: lower radiator on Scout |
| From: | "taildrags" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
Jeff; I have no idea if water pumps have failed on Fords in airplanes, but they
sure do fail in autos. The first sign could be coolant on the floor of the garage
or it could be clattering and rattling up front, but none of it is good.
I believe I've had at least one water pump failure in every car or truck I've
ever owned (I tend to keep them 7-10 years minimum, though).
I'd have to say that it would be unlikely that water flow by convection alone (hot
water rising, cooler water sinking) without benefit of a water pump would
be sufficient to cool these engines even with the radiator up top, but I've read
enough stories about Subarus and other water-cooled conversions to know that
it eliminates LOTS of problems if the vapor is at the high point of the system,
and if the high point of the system ISN'T the engine's cooling water outlet.
But yeah, I know what the Ford 'A' Piet purists all say: "Real FBOs carry antifreeze"
--------
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
Air Camper NX41CC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303744#303744
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Coming Soon! |
| From: | "Dan P" <dlplett(at)swko.net> |
Mike
The Air Museum is still in business and going strong. The first Saturday in Oct
there is going to be a flyin/ airshow with the museum being involved.
Marybettie Tabor has been Recreation Activities Supervisor for many year promoting
Liberal, KS. She has also served in other civic capacities as well.
I think she has since retired.
If you ever up this way again let me know.
--------
Dan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303753#303753
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Coming Soon! |
This is still the best one! Especialy in the original red/brown
colour.
I now have a very large wheelbarrow! New 350/19 tires
on wheels, wheels on axle, bungees in place. For all these
years sitting on old yellow milk bottle carriers it sure is a
change!
Clif
>
> It isn't a new thing, but I like the BPA logo as shown on their webpage. >
> http://www.pietenpols.org/
> GliderMike, aka Mike Glasgow
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
Hi Ben,
The shop shipped me back an entire assembled cylinder unit. Everything
was put back together by them and yellow tagged. They're a reputable
shop, so I would certainly hope all the clearances are within specs.
I'm looking at the parts list in the overhaul manual and I'm not seeing
the pushrod socket you're referring to. Do you have a parts number I
should be looking at?
Thanks,
Dan
On 07/04/2010 09:49 AM, Ben Charvet wrote:
>
> Ok, this is just a thought, but it it possible that when you pulled the
> cylinder and the pushrods that one of the pushrod sockets came out of
> the lifter and is sitting sideways in the assembly. Are your valve
> clearances at specification? I can't think of any other reason to lose
> oil pressure if you didn't remove your connecting rod too. I know that I
> had a similar problem removing a cylinder before. It is possible to get
> the pushrod socket back into the lifter body without removing the
> cylinder again, but it takes some doing. Let us know what you find. I
> just rebuilt my A-65, and had 40 PSI prior to the rebuild and a solid 35
> PSI afterwards, but it holds 35 PSI at all speeds and temps.
>
> Ben
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
That's 3 votes for the oil pressure relief valve. Ah, if engine
maintenance was as "easy" as running a Democracy... wait, maybe it is,
but I can't comment on that 'cause we don't talk politics here.
Anyway, I had another thought - I mentioned that I drained the oil and
didn't refill the sump for 2 weeks. During that time, I pulled the
blade through a couple times to see if I could get a better look at the
camshaft. Would pulling on a dry sump introduce air into the pressure
gauge system (something Mike suggested)?
On 07/04/2010 03:20 PM, Graham Hansen wrote:
> <ghans@cable-lynx.net>
>
> It is a rare thing, but I have seen this happen after an engine (A65)
> had been overhauled or had internal work done..
>
> The cause of low oil pressure was, in both cases, a bit of debris
> unseating the oil pressure relief valve. The relief valve plunger was
> removed and the seat area in the crankcase was cleaned. Then the plunger
> and spring were re-installed. Voila! Problem solved.
>
> Since your oil pressure was OK before the cylinder change, maybe this is
> the cause of the problem. I hope so.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Graham Hansen Pietenpol CF-AUN in Alberta, Canada
>
>
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Dever <chiefpepperhead(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: lower radiator on Scout |
Replace the pump as part of your maintenance program. I always replace it
when I replace the timing belt. The old adage that "if it ain't broke=2C d
on't fix it" doesn't apply to water pumps.
Doug Dever
In beautiful Stow Ohio
_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with H
otmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=
PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
Dan,
The tappets/lifters are what ride on the camshaft and convert the rotary
motion of the camshaft the linear motion applied to the pushrods. They
consist of a couple of parts. There is the tappet body itself, which rides
on the cam and slides in the bore in the case. Inside that there is the
hydraulic piston assembly (which is made of two parts itself), and at the
end there is a cup that slides into the tappet body. This cup is where the
pushrod seats when it is installed. The cup and the hydraulic lifter should
have remained in place when the cylinder was removed, and would not have
gone up to PG with it.
There should be a breakdown somewhere in the overhaul manual....check the
ToC for a listing for tappets, or valve operation....
Ryan
On Mon, Jul 5, 2010 at 7:48 AM, Dan Yocum wrote:
>
> Hi Ben,
>
> The shop shipped me back an entire assembled cylinder unit. Everything was
> put back together by them and yellow tagged. They're a reputable shop, so I
> would certainly hope all the clearances are within specs.
>
> I'm looking at the parts list in the overhaul manual and I'm not seeing the
> pushrod socket you're referring to. Do you have a parts number I should be
> looking at?
>
> Thanks,
> Dan
>
>
> On 07/04/2010 09:49 AM, Ben Charvet wrote:
>
>>
>> Ok, this is just a thought, but it it possible that when you pulled the
>> cylinder and the pushrods that one of the pushrod sockets came out of
>> the lifter and is sitting sideways in the assembly. Are your valve
>> clearances at specification? I can't think of any other reason to lose
>> oil pressure if you didn't remove your connecting rod too. I know that I
>> had a similar problem removing a cylinder before. It is possible to get
>> the pushrod socket back into the lifter body without removing the
>> cylinder again, but it takes some doing. Let us know what you find. I
>> just rebuilt my A-65, and had 40 PSI prior to the rebuild and a solid 35
>> PSI afterwards, but it holds 35 PSI at all speeds and temps.
>>
>> Ben
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> --
> Dan Yocum
> Fermilab 630.840.6509
> yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
> "I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
I can't remember - do you need to pump up the lifters on A series
engines the way you need to do C series engines? And could this
impact oil pressure if not done correctly?
>Dan,
>
>The tappets/lifters are what ride on the camshaft and convert the
>rotary motion of the camshaft the linear motion applied to the
>pushrods. They consist of a couple of parts. There is the tappet
>body itself, which rides on the cam and slides in the bore in the
>case. Inside that there is the hydraulic piston assembly (which is
>made of two parts itself), and at the end there is a cup that slides
>into the tappet body. This cup is where the pushrod seats when it is
>installed. The cup and the hydraulic lifter should have remained in
>place when the cylinder was removed, and would not have gone up to
>PG with it.
>
>There should be a breakdown somewhere in the overhaul
>manual....check the ToC for a listing for tappets, or valve
>operation....
>
>Ryan
>
--
Jeff Boatright
"Now let's think about this..."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack" <jack(at)textors.com> |
| Subject: | Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout |
Here is the latest attempt http://textors.com/IMG_4587_640x427.jpg. Compass
will be in center section, GPS on top of cowl behind windscreen. Faint
diagonal lines depict aileron cables behind panel. Brown boxes below show
breakers (or fuses), switches, carb heat and mixture. I've shock mounted the
entire panel.
Jack
www.textors.com
DSM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout |
Not that you asked, but you might consider moving the tach to where
the ASI is, moving the ASI to where the altimeter is, and moving the
altimeter to where the tach is. This keeps engine instruments
clustered, moves tach up to where it's easier to see (much more
important than altimeter, IMO, especially during early flight
testing), and keeps ASI up high and in front of you, too.
>Here is the latest attempt http://textors.com/IMG_4587_640x427.jpg. Compass
>will be in center section, GPS on top of cowl behind windscreen. Faint
>diagonal lines depict aileron cables behind panel. Brown boxes below show
>breakers (or fuses), switches, carb heat and mixture. I've shock mounted the
>entire panel.
>Jack
>www.textors.com
>DSM
--
---
Jeffrey H. Boatright, Ph.D.
Associate Professor of Ophthalmology
Emory University School of Medicine
Editor-in-Chief
Molecular Vision
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
I don't believe so. If I recall correctly they should fill with oil once the
engine is running. Especially in Dan's case with an engine that has plenty
of hours on it (as opposed to first run), at most I would think they may
just leak down a bit. If they weren't removed from the engine and cleaned
out it shouldn't be any different than when the airplane sits for days or a
week or two between flights....
Ryan
On Mon, Jul 5, 2010 at 8:35 AM, Jeff Boatright wrote:
>
> I can't remember - do you need to pump up the lifters on A series engines
> the way you need to do C series engines? And could this impact oil pressure
> if not done correctly?
>
>
>
>> Dan,
>>
>> The tappets/lifters are what ride on the camshaft and convert the rotary
>> motion of the camshaft the linear motion applied to the pushrods. They
>> consist of a couple of parts. There is the tappet body itself, which rides
>> on the cam and slides in the bore in the case. Inside that there is the
>> hydraulic piston assembly (which is made of two parts itself), and at the
>> end there is a cup that slides into the tappet body. This cup is where the
>> pushrod seats when it is installed. The cup and the hydraulic lifter should
>> have remained in place when the cylinder was removed, and would not have
>> gone up to PG with it.
>>
>> There should be a breakdown somewhere in the overhaul manual....check the
>> ToC for a listing for tappets, or valve operation....
>>
>> Ryan
>>
>>
>
> --
>
> Jeff Boatright
> "Now let's think about this..."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout |
I disagree, Jeff, for the following reason: The tach cable is not very
flexible and will have to run down one side or the other (if you want a
usable front cockpit). I would mount the tach as close to the outboard edge
of the panel as possible to ease the problems routing the cable - and it
will still be a problem.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
Boatright
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout
Not that you asked, but you might consider moving the tach to where
the ASI is, moving the ASI to where the altimeter is, and moving the
altimeter to where the tach is. This keeps engine instruments
clustered, moves tach up to where it's easier to see (much more
important than altimeter, IMO, especially during early flight
testing), and keeps ASI up high and in front of you, too.
>Here is the latest attempt http://textors.com/IMG_4587_640x427.jpg.
Compass
>will be in center section, GPS on top of cowl behind windscreen. Faint
>diagonal lines depict aileron cables behind panel. Brown boxes below show
>breakers (or fuses), switches, carb heat and mixture. I've shock mounted
the
>entire panel.
>Jack
>www.textors.com
>DSM
--
---
Jeffrey H. Boatright, Ph.D.
Associate Professor of Ophthalmology
Emory University School of Medicine
Editor-in-Chief
Molecular Vision
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout |
I couldn't find any way to make the tach cable work without installing a
right angle drive adapter to the tach, and then it worked better to put
the tach closer to the center. Those right angle drives aren't cheap
either.
Ben
On 7/5/2010 4:06 PM, Jack Phillips wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jack Phillips"
>
> I disagree, Jeff, for the following reason: The tach cable is not very
> flexible and will have to run down one side or the other (if you want a
> usable front cockpit). I would mount the tach as close to the outboard edge
> of the panel as possible to ease the problems routing the cable - and it
> will still be a problem.
>
> Jack Phillips
> NX899JP
> Raleigh, NC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
> Boatright
> Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 10:27 AM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jeff Boatright
>
> Not that you asked, but you might consider moving the tach to where
> the ASI is, moving the ASI to where the altimeter is, and moving the
> altimeter to where the tach is. This keeps engine instruments
> clustered, moves tach up to where it's easier to see (much more
> important than altimeter, IMO, especially during early flight
> testing), and keeps ASI up high and in front of you, too.
>
>
>
>> Here is the latest attempt http://textors.com/IMG_4587_640x427.jpg.
>>
> Compass
>
>> will be in center section, GPS on top of cowl behind windscreen. Faint
>> diagonal lines depict aileron cables behind panel. Brown boxes below show
>> breakers (or fuses), switches, carb heat and mixture. I've shock mounted
>>
> the
>
>> entire panel.
>> Jack
>> www.textors.com
>> DSM
>>
>
> --
> ---
>
> Jeffrey H. Boatright, Ph.D.
> Associate Professor of Ophthalmology
> Emory University School of Medicine
> Editor-in-Chief
> Molecular Vision
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout |
Good point, but we have to use a right-angle adapter anyway, so
didn't make much difference to us (well, er, to the guy who built it
33 years ago).
Regardless, to the degree that I look at the instruments, slip
indicator is first, ASI second, and tach is third in frequency of
use. I am sure that it is different for people with differing levels
of experience.
>
>I disagree, Jeff, for the following reason: The tach cable is not very
>flexible and will have to run down one side or the other (if you want a
>usable front cockpit). I would mount the tach as close to the outboard edge
>of the panel as possible to ease the problems routing the cable - and it
>will still be a problem.
>
>Jack Phillips
>NX899JP
>Raleigh, NC
>
>--
--
---
Jeffrey H. Boatright, Ph.D.
Associate Professor of Ophthalmology
Emory University School of Medicine
Editor-in-Chief
Molecular Vision
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
I've attached two scans from the Continental overhaul manual. I tried
e-mailing the whole PDF file, but it was too large. Page 5 shows the
oil flow through the tappet. Its hard to see the end socket in this
view, but it is what the pushrod rests against. On page 71 there is a
full breakdown, and the end socket is part #239.
A simple way to tell if this is your problem would be to take that
cylinder to TDC, remove the valve cover for the new cylinder, and check
your valve rocker clearances against the specs. It doesn't really have
anything to do with the overhaul of the cylinder. I rebuilt my motor in
Jan/Feb this year, and had to pull a cylinder off. When I pulled the
pushrod, one of the caps (part 239 on page 71) came out of the lifter
body and was laying in the pushrod tube. It was a real bear to get back
in place, but it is possible with patience.
I could be way off base on this, but am just trying to figure out any
way you could lose oil pressure after doing what you did. I'm not sure
how much oil pressure you would lose if this was the problem, but it
only requires pulling the valve cover to investigate.
Ben Charvet
Hoping to see your Piet at Brodhead
On 7/5/2010 8:48 AM, Dan Yocum wrote:
>
> Hi Ben,
>
> The shop shipped me back an entire assembled cylinder unit.
> Everything was put back together by them and yellow tagged. They're a
> reputable shop, so I would certainly hope all the clearances are
> within specs.
>
> I'm looking at the parts list in the overhaul manual and I'm not
> seeing the pushrod socket you're referring to. Do you have a parts
> number I should be looking at?
>
> Thanks,
> Dan
>
> On 07/04/2010 09:49 AM, Ben Charvet wrote:
>>
>> Ok, this is just a thought, but it it possible that when you pulled the
>> cylinder and the pushrods that one of the pushrod sockets came out of
>> the lifter and is sitting sideways in the assembly. Are your valve
>> clearances at specification? I can't think of any other reason to lose
>> oil pressure if you didn't remove your connecting rod too. I know that I
>> had a similar problem removing a cylinder before. It is possible to get
>> the pushrod socket back into the lifter body without removing the
>> cylinder again, but it takes some doing. Let us know what you find. I
>> just rebuilt my A-65, and had 40 PSI prior to the rebuild and a solid 35
>> PSI afterwards, but it holds 35 PSI at all speeds and temps.
>>
>> Ben
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lagowski Morrow" <jimdeb(at)charter.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout |
Another approach, which I used, was an electric tach. This avoided cable
bend and right angle drive issues.--Jim lagowski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 4:06 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout
>
>
> I disagree, Jeff, for the following reason: The tach cable is not very
> flexible and will have to run down one side or the other (if you want a
> usable front cockpit). I would mount the tach as close to the outboard
> edge
> of the panel as possible to ease the problems routing the cable - and it
> will still be a problem.
>
> Jack Phillips
> NX899JP
> Raleigh, NC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff
> Boatright
> Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 10:27 AM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout
>
>
> Not that you asked, but you might consider moving the tach to where
> the ASI is, moving the ASI to where the altimeter is, and moving the
> altimeter to where the tach is. This keeps engine instruments
> clustered, moves tach up to where it's easier to see (much more
> important than altimeter, IMO, especially during early flight
> testing), and keeps ASI up high and in front of you, too.
>
>
>>Here is the latest attempt http://textors.com/IMG_4587_640x427.jpg.
> Compass
>>will be in center section, GPS on top of cowl behind windscreen. Faint
>>diagonal lines depict aileron cables behind panel. Brown boxes below show
>>breakers (or fuses), switches, carb heat and mixture. I've shock mounted
> the
>>entire panel.
>>Jack
>>www.textors.com
>>DSM
>
>
> --
> ---
>
> Jeffrey H. Boatright, Ph.D.
> Associate Professor of Ophthalmology
> Emory University School of Medicine
> Editor-in-Chief
> Molecular Vision
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout |
| From: | "Jerry Dotson" <jdotson(at)erec.net> |
Here is my panel but it has not been flown. The CHT had to be moved to the left
side because it gave the vertical compass a fit.
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
Started building NX510JD July, 2009
Ribs and tailfeathers done
using Lycoming O-235
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303847#303847
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/a26_159.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
Am trying a mid-70s Mustang fuel tank float on mine.
rick
On Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 12:48 PM, Gary Boothe wrote:
> I have collected almost as many articles on mechanical fuel gauges as I
> have on wiring diagrams!! One of the common topics was what kind of float
to
> use. Most have probable seen the one that went from Axe deodorant cans to
> WD40 cans.
>
>
> No doubt, all the ideas work, but I have been stuck on good, old-fashione
d
> cork=85
>
>
> This was an easy internet search, and the cork is very cheap
> (unfortunately, the shipping is not!).
>
>
> *
> http://www.corkstore.com/compass/servlet/WBServlet?webfunctionid=web.ch
eckout&action=ok&time=13:50:04&quicksearch
> *
>
>
> Gary Boothe
> Cool, Ca.
> Pietenpol
> WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
> Tail done, Fuselage on gear
> (20 ribs down=85)
>
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
Another possible cause of oil pressure loss is a piece of rag partially, or
totally, blocking off the lower end of the pickup tube in the tank. A friend
told me he bought a used Continental A65 for his new Pietenpol and, after
installing it, ran it. Initially he had oil pressure, but then the pressure
dropped to zero. After checking everything they could think of they
eventually removed the oil sump/tank and found a cleaning cloth had been
sucked up against the pickup tube, thereby blocking it.
While a cylinder is off an engine the crankcase opening is sometimes closed
using rags. Possibly a piece of this material could remain inside the engine
and drop into the oil sump/tank.
Just a possibility that bears checking out. I do hope that something simple
like this is the cause of your problem and that nothing serious is wrong
with your engine. Good luck on this.
Cheers,
Graham Hansen Pietenpol CF-AUN in Alberta, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | H RULE <harvey.rule(at)rogers.com> |
I went to my local wine making store and found nice size corks which I put
2 of them back to back in other words thick ends to the middle and then cov
ered them in anything which is impervious to fuel,pushed the metal wire thr
ough them and bent it over once through=C2-and it works just fine.=0A=0AW
e had a discussion on here a few months back about what is good to cover th
em with to protect against the gas and I can't remember what that was now b
ut I'm sure somebody out there knows.With the ethonol in the gas now it's h
ard to know what works and what doesn't anymore.=0A=0A=0A=0A_______________
_________________=0AFrom: Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com>=0ATo: pietenpol
-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Mon, July 5, 2010 7:23:18 PM=0ASubject: Re: Pie
tenpol-List: Cork Floats=0A=0AAm trying a mid-70s Mustang fuel tank float o
n mine.=0A=0Arick=0A=0A=0AOn Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 12:48 PM, Gary Boothe wrote:=0A=0AI have collected almost as many articles on
mechanical fuel gauges as I have on wiring diagrams!! One of the common top
ics was what kind of float to use. Most have probable seen the one that wen
t from Axe deodorant cans to WD40 cans. =0A>=C2-=0A>No doubt, all the ide
as work, but I have been stuck on good, old-fashioned cork=0A>=C2
-=0A>This was an easy internet search, and the cork is very cheap (unfort
unately, the shipping is not!). =0A>=C2-=0A>http://www.corkstore.com/comp
ass/servlet/WBServlet?webfunctionid=web.checkout&action=ok&time=13:50
:04&quicksearch= =C2-=C2-=0A>=C2-=0A>Gary Boothe =0A>Cool, Ca. =0A>
Pietenpol =0A>WW Corvair Conversion, mounted =0A>Tail done,=C2-Fuselage
=C2-on gear =0A>(20 ribs down) =0A>=C2-=0A>=0A>=0A>" target=
"_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List=0A>tp://forums.m
atronics.com=0A>_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution=0A>=0A>=0A=0A
=0A-- =0ARick Holland=0ACastle Rock, Colorado=0A=0A"Logic is a wreath of pr
etty flowers, that smell bad" =0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lagowski Morrow" <jimdeb(at)charter.net> |
I did the same thing with 2 corks and thin stainless steel welding rod.
I bent the top over after going thru a brazed in tube in the cap. The
bend was located so that when it bottoms on the cap I still have ~1 hour
of flying left @ 4 gallons /hr with my 65 Continental. Works fine. I
epoxied the cork to seal it. Now on its 3rd year with no apparent
deterioration. Gets checked every time I add fuel.--Jim lagowski
----- Original Message -----
From: H RULE
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork Floats
I went to my local wine making store and found nice size corks which I
put 2 of them back to back in other words thick ends to the middle and
then covered them in anything which is impervious to fuel,pushed the
metal wire through them and bent it over once through and it works just
fine.
We had a discussion on here a few months back about what is good to
cover them with to protect against the gas and I can't remember what
that was now but I'm sure somebody out there knows.With the ethonol in
the gas now it's hard to know what works and what doesn't anymore.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com>
To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Mon, July 5, 2010 7:23:18 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork Floats
Am trying a mid-70s Mustang fuel tank float on mine.
rick
On Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 12:48 PM, Gary Boothe
wrote:
I have collected almost as many articles on mechanical fuel gauges
as I have on wiring diagrams!! One of the common topics was what kind of
float to use. Most have probable seen the one that went from Axe
deodorant cans to WD40 cans.
No doubt, all the ideas work, but I have been stuck on good,
old-fashioned cork
This was an easy internet search, and the cork is very cheap
(unfortunately, the shipping is not!).
http://www.corkstore.com/compass/servlet/WBServlet?webfunctionid=web.ch
eckout&action=ok&time=13:50:04&quicksearch=
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(20 ribs down)
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevinpurtee" <kevin.purtee(at)us.army.mil> |
I used the exact same float from the Ford dealer that Rick Holland shows. Attached
it a little different, but the idea is identical. So far so good.
--------
Kevin Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303880#303880
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Yet Another Attempt at Panel Layout |
| From: | "kevinpurtee" <kevin.purtee(at)us.army.mil> |
Jack - I'm having good luck with my electronic tach. Looks kinda modern in the
panel (thus matching the GPS and the handheld). It works well and was simple
to install.
--------
Kevin Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303882#303882
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kip and Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Ohio Corvair Fly-IN - Part 2 |
OK, so I know everyone is in "waiting for Brodhaed" mode, but I'm
posting this for all of you who can't get there this year (like me),
or just need yet another event to fly to this summer.
Hope to see you there!
Kip Gardner
Subject: EAA 82 WINGS AND WHEELS FLY-IN, Part Two
Last month, June 5th & 6th, EAA Chapter 82 had scheduled our annual
Wings and Wheels Fly-in, but the weather didn't cooperate.
We have re-scheduled the fly-in in conjunction with the annual
Taylotcraft / Aeronca Fly-in which is also held annually at Barber
Field (2D1).
It will be held on July 10th and 11th.
The field is located approximately three miles north of Alliance,
Ohio on State Route 225. There will be aircraft with automotive and
alternative engines - CORVAIRS AND VOLKSWAGENS on display.
There will be a pancake breakfast on Saturday and Sunday from 7 till
11 AM with lunch on Saturday from noon till 2 PM. This event is open
to the public.
There will be homebuilt aircraft ( KR-2S's, Pietenpols, an Afford-a-
Plane), PRA #19 (Rotorcraft Chapter) will have trikes and a
demonstrator, and Vintage and Antique aircraft (Waco 9, Fleet,
Taylorcraft, Aeronca) on the field. There will be a fleet of some
nicely restored Corvair cars on display. Mark Langford, Larry
Flesner, Mark Jones and Joe Horton are planning on being there,
provided the weather and their schedules permit.
There will be several Corvair engines and a "Roy's Garage" Fifth
Bearing on display for those who are interested in using a Corvair in
their project. Roy Szarafinski of Roy's Garage WILL RETURN to answer
questions about his bearing and will gladly check your ENGINE CASES
AND CRANKS for proper tolerances before you start an engine rebuild.
The fly-in hours will be Saturday... 7 AM - 4 PM and Sunday... 7 AM
- 2 PM.
For more information, contact Ron Willett @ 330-314-0075 or Pete
Klapp @ 330-388-2074, and Forrest Barber (FBO) at
WWW.BARBERAIRCRAFT.COM.
We can provide lodging for those who would be flying in for our event.
Hope to see many fellow EAA faces present at our fly-in.
Thanks,
Pete Klapp, building KR-2S, N729PK,
Canton, Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | MODEL A CARBS AND CARB HEAT |
| From: | "899PM" <rockriverrifle(at)hotmail.com> |
For those of you running Model A's....what carb are you using? What drop have you
seen with the application of carb heat. With the only other change being from
auto gas to 100LL I saw a drop of 110rpm after hooking up the carb heat yesterday.
This seems excessive. Was turning 1860rpm with a 76-42 Sensenich wood
prop. Could only get 1750 yesterday.
--------
PAPA MIKE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303906#303906
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2614_120.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | H RULE <harvey.rule(at)rogers.com> |
A friend of mine said he used JB weld on his cork to cover it.He said it wa
s impervious to anything.=C2-=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A_____________________________
___=0AFrom: Steve Ruse <steve(at)wotelectronics.com>=0ATo: pietenpol-list@matr
onics.com=0ASent: Tue, July 6, 2010 1:07:20 PM=0ASubject: Re: Pietenpol-Lis
@wotelectronics.com>=0A=0AMy cork float is a fishing rod handle from Bass P
ro Shops.=C2- Works great, just the right size, and it already had a hole
through the middle.=0A=0AI used T-88 epoxy to coat mine almost five years
ago, it has been submersed in fuel since then with no problems.=C2- No et
hanol though.=C2- I've read that all epoxies are affected by ethanol in s
ome way, but I can't substantiate that.=0A=0AI used 1/8" aluminum rod from
aircraft spruce.=C2- 1/8" steel or brass was too heavy.=C2- Smaller ste
el wire will work but left too much of the hole open in my fuel cap.=0A=0AS
teve=0A=0AQuoting Lagowski Morrow :=0A=0A> I'm sorry to
report I don't remember-Jim=0A>=C2- ----- Original Message -----=0A>=C2
- From: H RULE=0A>=C2- To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com=0A>=C2- Sent:
Monday, July 05, 2010 10:15 PM=0A>=C2- Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork
Floats=0A> =0A> =0A>=C2- What kind of epoxy did you use?=0A>=C2- do no
t archive=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> -----------------------------------------
-------------------------------------=0A>=C2- From: Lagowski Morrow <jimd
eb(at)charter.net>=0A>=C2- To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com=0A>=C2- Sent:
Mon, July 5, 2010 9:25:05 PM=0A>=C2- Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork Fl
oats=0A> =0A>=C2- =EF=BB=0A>=C2- I did the same thing with 2 corks a
nd thin stainless steel welding=C2- rod. I bent the top over after going
thru a brazed in tube in the=C2- cap. The bend was located so that when i
t bottoms on the cap I still=C2- have ~1 hour of flying left @ 4 gallons
/hr with my 65 Continental.=C2- Works fine. I epoxied the cork to seal it
. Now on its 3rd year with=C2- no apparent deterioration. Gets checked ev
ery time I add fuel.--Jim=C2- lagowski=0A>=C2- =C2- ----- Original Me
ssage -----=0A>=C2- =C2- From: H RULE=0A>=C2- =C2- To: pietenpol-li
st(at)matronics.com=0A>=C2- =C2- Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 9:12 PM=0A>
=C2- =C2- Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork Floats=0A> =0A> =0A>=C2-
=C2- I went to my local wine making store and found nice size corks=C2-
which I put 2 of them back to back in other words thick ends to the=C2-
middle and then covered them in anything which is impervious to=C2- fuel,
pushed the metal wire through them and bent it over once=C2- through and
it works just fine.=0A> =0A>=C2- =C2- We had a discussion on here a few
months back about what is good=C2- to cover them with to protect against
the gas and I can't remember=C2- what that was now but I'm sure somebody
out there knows.With the=C2- ethonol in the gas now it's hard to know wh
at works and what doesn't=C2- anymore.=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> ---------------
-------------------------------------------------------------=0A>=C2- =C2
- From: Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com>=0A>=C2- =C2- To: pietenpol-
list(at)matronics.com=0A>=C2- =C2- Sent: Mon, July 5, 2010 7:23:18 PM=0A>
=C2- =C2- Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Cork Floats=0A> =0A>=C2- =C2
- Am trying a mid-70s Mustang fuel tank float on mine.=0A> =0A>=C2- =C2
- rick=0A> =0A> =0A>=C2- =C2- On Sat, Jul 3, 2010 at 12:48 PM, Gary B
oothe=C2- wrote:=0A> =0A>=C2- =C2- =C2- I ha
ve collected almost as many articles on mechanical fuel=C2- gauges as I h
ave on wiring diagrams!! One of the common topics was=C2- what kind of fl
oat to use. Most have probable seen the one that went=C2- from Axe deodor
ant cans to WD40 cans.=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A>=C2- =C2- =C2- No doubt, all
the ideas work, but I have been stuck on good,=C2- old-fashioned cork
=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A>=C2- =C2- =C2- This was an easy internet sea
rch, and the cork is very cheap=C2- (unfortunately, the shipping is not!)
.=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A>=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- http://www.corkstore.com/co
mpass/servlet/WBServlet?webfunctionid=web.checkout&action=ok&time=13:
50:04&quicksearch==0A> =0A> =0A> =0A>=C2- =C2- =C2- Gary Boothe=0A>
=C2- =C2- =C2- Cool, Ca.=0A>=C2- =C2- =C2- Pietenpol=0A>=C2-
=C2- =C2- WW Corvair Conversion, mounted=0A>=C2- =C2- =C2- Tail d
one, Fuselage on gear=0A>=C2- =C2- =C2- (20 ribs down)=0A>
=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navig
ator?Pietenpol-List=0A> tp://forums.matronics.com=0A> _blank">http://www.ma
tronics.com/contribution=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A>=C2- =C2- --=0A>=C2-
=C2- Rick Holland=0A>=C2- =C2- Castle Rock, Colorado=0A> =0A>=C2-
=C2- "Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"=0A> =0A> =0A>
=0A> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.
matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List=0A> href="http://forums.matronics.
com">http://forums.matronics.com=0A> href="http://www.matronics.com/contr
ibution">http://www.matronics.com/c=0A> =0A> om/Navigator?Pietenpol-List" r
el=nofollow=C2- target=_blank>http://www.matr="http://forums.matron
ics.com/"=C2- rel=nofollow target=_blank>http://for======
==C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- - List Contribution Web Site -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2
===================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
41CC has the twin cork float setup too. However,
it seems like the corks don't always provide enough
flotation to keep the indicator rod reading correctly.
I may just try the Ford Mustang/Cougar brass float
to see if it's any better.
FWIW, I believe Corky said he dipped the corks in
shellac to seal them, but I don't remember exactly.
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Ruse <steve(at)wotelectronics.com> |
I tried Shellac on two different corks, and in both cases within a
couple of days the shellac would bubble and blister at the pits in the
cork. Maybe I needed to thin it more or add more coats of shellac,
but the way I did it didn't seal well at all. T-88 was easy.
Steve
Quoting Oscar Zuniga :
>
>
> 41CC has the twin cork float setup too. However,
> it seems like the corks don't always provide enough
> flotation to keep the indicator rod reading correctly.
>
> I may just try the Ford Mustang/Cougar brass float
> to see if it's any better.
>
> FWIW, I believe Corky said he dipped the corks in
> shellac to seal them, but I don't remember exactly.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Air Camper NX41CC
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | H RULE <harvey.rule(at)rogers.com> |
Someone in the past commented on shellac being eaten by ethonol, I think.Th
is whole ethonol thing is a real pain in the butt.I have had to order new m
etal and specially coated tanks for my N3 Pup because of it.The dam stuff e
ats fiber glass like candy.It gives low power and not worth the powder to b
low it to hell as far as I'm concerned.You pay less for it but you don't go
as far on a tank full so where is the savings other than we are not giving
as much to the Arabs.We just had this new tax levied on us called the HST
(harmonised sales tax)which caused the price of gas to go up about another
7 cents a liter.I remember when I was a kid if the gas went up a cent more
per gallon there was hell to pay for it.A national out cry would be heard a
cross the country and it wasn't long before they dropped it back to the ori
ginal price or the gas station would suffer from none use.People would leav
e their cars at home and walk because of it.Now adays the gas is as
much as 40 cents agallon from one side of town to the other and nobody sez
anything.It's like we are all numb from shock or somethin.The word on the
street is use Shell high test and there is no ethonol in it.I don't know;I
was talking to a guy who delivers gas all night long and he said if- they
have extra regular then they dump it in the high test tank rather than hau
l it back.Well so much for high test being ethonol free.You say well test i
t before you use it and what if it does have ethonol in it .You take it bac
k and they'll just laugh at you because they will say "once it's gone from
the gas station there are no garantees what happened to it."=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________=0AFrom: Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.co
m>=0ATo: Pietenpol List =0ASent: Tue, July 6,
2010 1:53:23 PM=0ASubject: Pietenpol-List: Cork Floats=0A=0A--> Pietenpol-
List message posted by: Oscar Zuniga =0A=0A=0A41CC h
as the twin cork float setup too.- However,=0Ait seems like the corks don
't always provide enough=0Aflotation to keep the indicator rod reading corr
ectly.=0A=0AI may just try the Ford Mustang/Cougar brass float=0Ato see if
it's any better.=0A=0AFWIW, I believe Corky said he dipped the corks in=0As
hellac to seal them, but I don't remember exactly.=0A=0AOscar Zuniga=0AAir
Camper NX41CC=0ASan Antonio, TX=0Amailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com=0Awebsite a
t http://www.flysquirrel.net --- --- --- - ---
=========================0A
====================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
First off, I'd like to thank all of you guys who have given some thought
to this and taken the time to reply. I really appreciate it - a round
of beers on me at Brodhead.
Eric and I looked at the pressure relief valve this morning - nothing
lodged in there that we could see. He did notice that the spring was an
old type spring so he called up to Poplar Grove Airmotive to see if
they've got a new type. They do, so we're going to replace the spring.
Then we pulled the temperature gauge to test it for accuracy - dropped
it into a pop can of boiling water and it came up to 85C. Re-heated the
water and it came up to 88C - didn't want to get the propane torch up in
there to keep the water at 100C, so I'm satisfied that if the temp gauge
isn't exactly on, it's only off by 5C (9F) and it shows 70C (158F) at
cruise on an 82 degree day.
Next we pulled the oil screen and hoo-boy, was it full o' crud. A boat
load of carbon, some red flecks of paint from the dipstick, and a couple
grains of sand. The last couple things are probably from the rag we
stuffed in the case when we took the jug off. Oops. He guesses that
the carbon came from the old piston skirt when we popped off the jug and
it fell back into the case. Take a look at the attached picture. Mind
you, this oil now has a grand total of 25 minutes of flying time on it.
Well, we're going to replace the spring in a few days, fly it in the
pattern to see what's up, and if it doesn't fix the pressure problem
we'll take the accessory case off and send it up to Poplar Grove for an
STC fix they've got for the oil pump: something to do with inserts which
bring the clearance between the gears and the sides back into spec. No
welding required.
Jeez, only 2 1/2 weeks until Brodhead... :-/
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
Dan, it might not hurt to pull the oil sump and give it a good cleaning.
That would also let you remove and clean the oil pickup tube, to verify
there are no pieces of rag in it. Check with Poplar Grove and see if they
have a replacement gasket or you will have oil leaks for sure.
And I had suggested maybe trying a different oil pressure gage, not
temperature gage. My gage went bad this year on the way to SNF, so I know
it can happen.
Good luck with it. Hope to see you in a couple of weeks at Brodhead.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Yocum
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 2:46 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure?
First off, I'd like to thank all of you guys who have given some thought
to this and taken the time to reply. I really appreciate it - a round
of beers on me at Brodhead.
Eric and I looked at the pressure relief valve this morning - nothing
lodged in there that we could see. He did notice that the spring was an
old type spring so he called up to Poplar Grove Airmotive to see if
they've got a new type. They do, so we're going to replace the spring.
Then we pulled the temperature gauge to test it for accuracy - dropped
it into a pop can of boiling water and it came up to 85C. Re-heated the
water and it came up to 88C - didn't want to get the propane torch up in
there to keep the water at 100C, so I'm satisfied that if the temp gauge
isn't exactly on, it's only off by 5C (9F) and it shows 70C (158F) at
cruise on an 82 degree day.
Next we pulled the oil screen and hoo-boy, was it full o' crud. A boat
load of carbon, some red flecks of paint from the dipstick, and a couple
grains of sand. The last couple things are probably from the rag we
stuffed in the case when we took the jug off. Oops. He guesses that
the carbon came from the old piston skirt when we popped off the jug and
it fell back into the case. Take a look at the attached picture. Mind
you, this oil now has a grand total of 25 minutes of flying time on it.
Well, we're going to replace the spring in a few days, fly it in the
pattern to see what's up, and if it doesn't fix the pressure problem
we'll take the accessory case off and send it up to Poplar Grove for an
STC fix they've got for the oil pump: something to do with inserts which
bring the clearance between the gears and the sides back into spec. No
welding required.
Jeez, only 2 1/2 weeks until Brodhead... :-/
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
Hey Jack,
On 07/06/2010 02:01 PM, Jack Phillips wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jack Phillips"
>
> Dan, it might not hurt to pull the oil sump and give it a good cleaning.
> That would also let you remove and clean the oil pickup tube, to verify
> there are no pieces of rag in it. Check with Poplar Grove and see if they
> have a replacement gasket or you will have oil leaks for sure.
>
> And I had suggested maybe trying a different oil pressure gage, not
> temperature gage. My gage went bad this year on the way to SNF, so I know
> it can happen.
You did mention that - I forgot. I will ask Eric if he's got a spare we
can test with when he comes back out.
Generally when I start 'er up it takes 20-30 seconds for the gauge to
show any pressure, and then it "pops" up to about 40psi. What does your
gauge do? Does it pop too, or does it increase more steadily? I
realize this might be more a function of the oil pump than anything...
>
> Good luck with it. Hope to see you in a couple of weeks at Brodhead.
Oh, I'll be there one way or another. If the plane is down, that'll
give me a good excuse to bring more adult beverages for the evening
festivities.
Thanks!
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Isablcorky(at)aol.com |
No shellac Oscar. I had some Hirsch's Gasoline Tank Sealer left over from
my old car restoration days and it seemed to work great. The corks are from
any wine bottles.
Corky
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
| From: | "taildrags" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
Pull the oil sump? That was the biggest pain in the rear that I can remember about
working on my 65. In the nose-over, the carb got shoved back into the oil
sump and I was concerned about it being punctured (shouldn't have been, it turns
out). I bought another one on eBay and that one turned out to give me even
more problems and it, too, had been cratered by a carb in an earlier life and
then blown back out. I think most of the oil sumps out there have dents or
dings in them anyway.
The problem with the oil sump on these small Continentals is that they were designed
to be installed with glee by Satan's stepchildren, with about twenty small
castellated nuts holding them onto the studs, NO way to get all of them properly
aligned with the drilled holes in the studs and still get the specified
torque on them, NO room to get a proper tool in there to tighten them, NO room
to safety them, and pretty much NO room to do anything but curse. But if you
don't get it all correct (and I never did, on the 65)- the sump gasket will seep
and leak from day one. You'll have oil dripping from your cowling, misting
onto the firewall, and coating everything inside the cowling. You won't want
to take off the safety wire from all those cussed nuts to retorque them, so
you live with it.
Oh, and by the way- if you do pull the sump, don't use a cork gasket on it if you
can get one of those red-orange silicone ones. The new ones seal much better
and don't harden up over time.
The sump on my A75 is installed to perfection (easy to do with the engine on an
assembly stand). Not one single tiny drop of oil anywhere from the new engine.
Last thing about oil pressure. My old 65 could get the pressure into the green
slowly but surely, but it was never any great shakes... maybe 20-25 psi. Yes,
the older engines lose pressure when the face of the rear cover wears and oil
bypasses. It also makes it more and more difficult for the pump gears to 'prime',
and there are lots of little things that people have worked out over the
years to overcome this when you fire the engine up after it's been sitting for
a couple of weeks and the pressure doesn't come up within about 10 seconds.
They involve raising the tail, or lowering the tail, or removing the oil pressure
line and squirting oil in to prime the pump gears, or shaking a bag of chicken
bones while shouting incantations. Ultimately, besides replacing the gears,
the rear case can be reworked to improve the clearance. The A75 develops
pressure in the 40 psi range. Continental specs call for 30-35 psi oil pressure
at cruise.
--------
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
Air Camper NX41CC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303950#303950
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
Hi Dan,
With my old oil pressure gage, after I started the engine I would wait for
nearly 30 seconds (and begin wondering whether I should shut the engine
down) before the gage would begin to move. After about 30 seconds it would
jump to about 10 psi, and after another 30 seconds it would jump again, to
about 25 psi and then the third jump would take it to 35.
As I said, this gage got where it would still read 35 psi, even a week after
engine shutdown. If I tapped on the gage it would then drop to zero. Not
much good as an indicator of impending engine problems...
The new gage (of exactly the same type) now begins to climb off the peg
almost as soon as I start the engine and smoothly increases to 35 psi. It
is a Rochester gage that I bought from AS&S.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Yocum
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 3:30 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure?
Hey Jack,
On 07/06/2010 02:01 PM, Jack Phillips wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jack
Phillips"
>
> Dan, it might not hurt to pull the oil sump and give it a good cleaning.
> That would also let you remove and clean the oil pickup tube, to verify
> there are no pieces of rag in it. Check with Poplar Grove and see if they
> have a replacement gasket or you will have oil leaks for sure.
>
> And I had suggested maybe trying a different oil pressure gage, not
> temperature gage. My gage went bad this year on the way to SNF, so I know
> it can happen.
You did mention that - I forgot. I will ask Eric if he's got a spare we
can test with when he comes back out.
Generally when I start 'er up it takes 20-30 seconds for the gauge to
show any pressure, and then it "pops" up to about 40psi. What does your
gauge do? Does it pop too, or does it increase more steadily? I
realize this might be more a function of the oil pump than anything...
>
> Good luck with it. Hope to see you in a couple of weeks at Brodhead.
Oh, I'll be there one way or another. If the plane is down, that'll
give me a good excuse to bring more adult beverages for the evening
festivities.
Thanks!
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Gow" <rgow(at)avionicsdesign.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure? |
My experience with my old Chief was similar. I took to priming the oil
pump before each start by unscrewing the pressure line and squirting oil
in. Oil pressure came up every time. Eventually I got a NOS rear case
from Reno and fixed the problem once and for all.
No paperwork . . .
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jack
Phillips
Sent: July 6, 2010 3:52 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure?
Hi Dan,
With my old oil pressure gage, after I started the engine I would wait for
nearly 30 seconds (and begin wondering whether I should shut the engine
down) before the gage would begin to move. After about 30 seconds it
would
jump to about 10 psi, and after another 30 seconds it would jump again, to
about 25 psi and then the third jump would take it to 35.
As I said, this gage got where it would still read 35 psi, even a week
after
engine shutdown. If I tapped on the gage it would then drop to zero. Not
much good as an indicator of impending engine problems...
The new gage (of exactly the same type) now begins to climb off the peg
almost as soon as I start the engine and smoothly increases to 35 psi. It
is a Rochester gage that I bought from AS&S.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Yocum
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 3:30 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: New cylinder - low oil pressure?
Hey Jack,
On 07/06/2010 02:01 PM, Jack Phillips wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jack
Phillips"
>
> Dan, it might not hurt to pull the oil sump and give it a good cleaning.
> That would also let you remove and clean the oil pickup tube, to verify
> there are no pieces of rag in it. Check with Poplar Grove and see if
they
> have a replacement gasket or you will have oil leaks for sure.
>
> And I had suggested maybe trying a different oil pressure gage, not
> temperature gage. My gage went bad this year on the way to SNF, so I
know
> it can happen.
You did mention that - I forgot. I will ask Eric if he's got a spare we
can test with when he comes back out.
Generally when I start 'er up it takes 20-30 seconds for the gauge to
show any pressure, and then it "pops" up to about 40psi. What does your
gauge do? Does it pop too, or does it increase more steadily? I
realize this might be more a function of the oil pump than anything...
>
> Good luck with it. Hope to see you in a couple of weeks at Brodhead.
Oh, I'll be there one way or another. If the plane is down, that'll
give me a good excuse to bring more adult beverages for the evening
festivities.
Thanks!
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | H RULE <harvey.rule(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant |
Funny thing is when they first started selling ethonol up here I thought it
was a great thing because they made it a lot cheeper than gas and they eve
n sold us the story of it bing like premium only cheaper than regular so I
bought it hook line and sinker.My car started running with strange noises l
ater so I went back to regular gas.BUT you are right we are paying through
the nose for this crap and it's not going to get any better down the road.T
hey want to build these ethonol plants all over the place up here.The only
thing farmers grow up here now is corn.Thanks for correcting me on that poi
nt.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: John Fay <jfay19
50(at)gmail.com>=0ATo: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Tue, July 6, 2010
4:57:47 PM=0ASubject: Pietenpol-List: Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant=0A=0A=0AHa
rvey, =0A=0AI need to correct you on one point in your rant on ethanol.-
You said that the only advantage you could see was that it is a little chea
per, but when you take into account the decreased mileage, you weren't even
sure if that was worth it.- It is NOT cheaper.- It actually costs subs
tantially more that straight gasoline, but the government subsidizes it so
that you won't notice that.- If they didn't a gallon of gasohol would act
ually cost about 10 - 15 cents than pure gasoline.- If you look at the ex
tended economic effects, it gets even worse.- The increasing use of it is
one of the main reason our food costs have been going up the last three ye
ars, and a couple years ago they even had some riots in Mexico, because the
government there had to raise the price of tortillas.=0A=0ABut if we reall
y want to get into the effects of the decisions made by our solons, it woul
d probably make me so mad, I wouldn't be able to build, so I'll drop it.-
=0A=0AI glued up my secon elevator this afternoon.- I did the first one
back in July of '02.- This evening I'll draw out and begin building eithe
r the fin or rudder.- I decided not to make any enlargement of the fin.
- So I am finally making progress again.=0A=0ASee you all at Brodhead=0A
==============
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
> If they didn't a gallon of gasohol would actually cost about 10 - 15
cents than pure >gasoline. If you look at the extended economic effects, it
gets even worse. The >increasing use of it is one of the main reason our
food costs have been going up the >last three years, and a couple years ago
they even had some riots in Mexico, >because the government there had to
raise the price of tortillas.
> But if we really want to get into the effects of the decisions made by our
solons, it >would probably make me so mad, I wouldn't be able to build, so
I'll drop it.
>
>
When I start thinking about it and get mad I find that going to the garage
and workin on the Piet helps me forget and remember what's important.
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MODEL A CARBS AND CARB HEAT |
| From: | "Pieti Lowell" <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com> |
Mike :
If you pull the hose off the heater does the RPM change ?
What RPM difference does the fuel change make ?
Is the lower RPM only on 100LL ?
Is the carb acting up again ?
The Funk engine uses a down draft Zenith.
Douwe and I have used a two venturi Weber with great success.
The larger venturi the better, with smooth ducting.
Carbs from Cont, will work but will need Carb heat with a diverter box to get the
most HP on take-off.
Pieti Lowell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303977#303977
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MODEL A CARBS AND CARB HEAT |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Hi Papa,
I have only tested my A with the carb heat in place. It runs 1860 static,
with the model B carb. I am turning my home-made 46/76 prop.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: 899PM <rockriverrifle(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tue, Jul 6, 2010 12:14 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: MODEL A CARBS AND CARB HEAT
For those of you running Model A's....what carb are you using? What drop
have
ou seen with the application of carb heat. With the only other change bein
g
rom auto gas to 100LL I saw a drop of 110rpm after hooking up the carb hea
t
esterday. This seems excessive. Was turning 1860rpm with a 76-42 Sensenich
wood
rop. Could only get 1750 yesterday.
--------
APA MIKE
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303906#303906
ttachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2614_120.jpg
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: MODEL A CARBS |
AND CARB HEAT)
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com> |
Speaking of Mr. Helsper. How are things going with your new infatuation?
How many more hours do you have on 'er and have you solved the engine cuttin
g out when landing problem?
Dan
--
yocum(at)gmail.com
On Jul 6, 2010, at 7:37 PM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
> Hi Papa,
>
> I have only tested my A with the carb heat in place. It runs 1860 static, w
ith the model B carb. I am turning my home-made 46/76 prop.
>
> Dan Helsper
> Poplar Grove, IL.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 899PM <rockriverrifle(at)hotmail.com>
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tue, Jul 6, 2010 12:14 pm
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: MODEL A CARBS AND CARB HEAT
>
>
> For those of you running Model A's....what carb are you using? What drop h
ave
> you seen with the application of carb heat. With the only other change bei
ng
> from auto gas to 100LL I saw a drop of 110rpm after hooking up the carb he
at
> yesterday. This seems excessive. Was turning 1860rpm with a 76-42 Sensenic
h wood
> prop. Could only get 1750 yesterday.
>
> --------
> PAPA MIKE
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=303906#303906
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_2614_120.jpg
>
>
>
>
> =========================
> t" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> =========================
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> =========================
> _blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> =========================
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
A CARBS AND CARB HEAT)
| From: | "John Recine" <amsafetyc(at)aol.com> |
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant |
| From: | "tkreiner" <tkreiner(at)gmail.com> |
Guys,
There is a group of engineers at The Univ. of Houston (my part of TX), that is
in the process of establishing pure ethanol as the fuel for GA piston aircraft.
According to the guy I know, they have already filled out paperwork to have the
fuel approved by the FAA for C-150's, 152's, and a host of other aircraft up
to 200 Hp.
In order to certify, they had to change out all rubber components in the fuel system
to polyurethane, which is completely resistant to the swelling that occurs
with rubber. Along with the polyurethane, they have worked thru many of the
issues related to mixture, leaning, etc. Their intent is to certify GA piston
a/c for use with both fuels, or heavy blends of Ethanol.
Just my .02 for what it's worth...
--------
Tom Kreiner
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=304050#304050
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Continental A75 Eyebrows |
Hi to all.
Advice or guidance required.
If I removed the 'eyebrows' on Continental A75 to use as 'pattern' to renew
them would it do any harm if I flew without them for a little while?
Temperatures here in UK are very rarely above 70F. The Cowls on my Corben
are open Piper J3 type. Photo attached.
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
07808 402404
gholland@content-stream.co.uk
Based at White Ox Mead, Near Bath, UK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | H RULE <harvey.rule(at)rogers.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant |
Unfortunately this doesn't help any of us who are using old technology.My e
ngine =0Ais an 80hp Franklin(1940's technology)Marvel Sheblar carb etc.Gove
rnments and =0Aindustry has gone ahead with no regard for the old tech.Swit
ching over in some =0Acases can cost thousands of dollars and I am retired
now.It means I have to try =0Aand sell what I got to some poor unsuspecting
bloke who will ,when he catches up =0Awith what has happened to him ,be no
t too happy either.Unless of course he has =0Adeep pockets.I can't imagine
what some guys are going through who have-equipment =0Aolder than mine.
-=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: tkreiner <tkrein
er(at)gmail.com>=0ATo: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Wed, July 7, 2010
12:37:26 PM=0ASubject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant=0A=0A
Guys,=0A=0AThere is a group of engineers at The Univ. of Houston (my part o
f TX), that is =0Ain the process of establishing pure ethanol as the fuel f
or GA piston aircraft.- =0A=0A=0AAccording to the guy I know, they have a
lready filled out paperwork to have the =0Afuel approved by the FAA for C-1
50's, 152's, and a host of other aircraft up to =0A200 Hp.- =0A=0A=0AIn o
rder to certify, they had to change out all rubber components in the fuel
=0Asystem to polyurethane, which is completely resistant to the swelling th
at =0Aoccurs with rubber.- Along with the polyurethane, they have worked
thru many of =0Athe issues related to mixture, leaning, etc.- - Their i
ntent is to certify GA =0Apiston a/c for use with both fuels, or heavy blen
ds of Ethanol.=0A=0AJust my .02 for what it's worth...=0A=0A--------=0ATom
Kreiner=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matro
-========================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Continental A75 Eyebrows |
I would recommend against it. Jack Phillips had some problems with his
cylinders running hot when one of the tabs holding the eyebrow to the
engine broke. I think it caused some internal damage if I recall
correctly. Of course, the rest of the story is in the archives.
Just use some thick poster paper to lay on top of the eyebrows, in
place, and keep cutting until you get the right shape.
Cheers!
Dan
On 07/07/2010 11:59 AM, Gerry Holland wrote:
> Hi to all.
> Advice or guidance required.
> If I removed the 'eyebrows' on Continental A75 to use as 'pattern' to
> renew them would it do any harm if I flew without them for a little while?
> Temperatures here in UK are very rarely above 70F. The Cowls on my
> Corben are open Piper J3 type. Photo attached.
> Regards
> Gerry
>
> Gerry Holland
> 07808 402404
> _gholland@content-stream.co.uk
> _*
> *Based at White Ox Mead, Near Bath, UK
>
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Ash <ashcan(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Continental A75 Eyebrows |
Don't do it.
While I can't say I've seen it in an airplane, I've toyed with Corvairs for many
years. those engines have special baffling on the back sides of the air flow
to direct it to the back fins. People who rebuild Corvair engines without knowing
what they're doing sometimes leave them off. Without the baffling, there
isn't any serious airflow back there, just turbulence, and things don't get cooled
properly. The result is that the bottoms of the cylinders overheat and crystallize.
The inside of those jugs have that distinctive blue hue of overheated
metal. At that point, they're trash.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
From: Gerry Holland
Sent: Jul 7, 2010 12:59 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Continental A75 Eyebrows
Hi to all.
Advice or guidance required.
If I removed the 'eyebrows' on Continental A75 to use as 'pattern' to renew them
would it do any harm if I flew without them for a little while?
Temperatures here in UK are very rarely above 70F. The Cowls on my Corben are open
Piper J3 type. Photo attached.
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
07808 402404
gholland@content-stream.co.uk
Based at White Ox Mead, Near Bath, UK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant |
Tom,
Do you know if they looked at effects of ethanol on the internals of
Strombergs, M-Ss, and other carbs heavily used in the installed fleet?
Thanks,
Jeff
>
>Guys,
>
>There is a group of engineers at The Univ. of Houston (my part of
>TX), that is in the process of establishing pure ethanol as the fuel
>for GA piston aircraft.
>
>According to the guy I know, they have already filled out paperwork
>to have the fuel approved by the FAA for C-150's, 152's, and a host
>of other aircraft up to 200 Hp.
>
>In order to certify, they had to change out all rubber components in
>the fuel system to polyurethane, which is completely resistant to
>the swelling that occurs with rubber. Along with the polyurethane,
>they have worked thru many of the issues related to mixture,
>leaning, etc. Their intent is to certify GA piston a/c for use
>with both fuels, or heavy blends of Ethanol.
>
>Just my .02 for what it's worth...
>
>--------
>Tom Kreiner
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=304050#304050
>
--
Jeff Boatright
"Now let's think about this..."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Continental A75 Eyebrows |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
Additionally, at least on an A-75, if you remove the eyebrows the
inter-cylinder baffling doesn't even come in to play because you are no
longer collecting the incoming air and attempting to direct it between the
cooling fins on the cylinders. Especially at the slow speeds a Piet/Corben
would fly at you will "overheat" the engine, at the very least damaging the
rear cylinders as they will run quite hot.
Just more motivation to quickly knock out a new set of eyebrows so you can
get back to flying...
Ryan
On Wed, Jul 7, 2010 at 12:19 PM, Jim Ash wrote:
>
> Don't do it.
>
> While I can't say I've seen it in an airplane, I've toyed with Corvairs for
> many years. those engines have special baffling on the back sides of the air
> flow to direct it to the back fins. People who rebuild Corvair engines
> without knowing what they're doing sometimes leave them off. Without the
> baffling, there isn't any serious airflow back there, just turbulence, and
> things don't get cooled properly. The result is that the bottoms of the
> cylinders overheat and crystallize. The inside of those jugs have that
> distinctive blue hue of overheated metal. At that point, they're trash.
>
> Jim Ash
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gerry Holland
> Sent: Jul 7, 2010 12:59 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Continental A75 Eyebrows
>
> Hi to all.
> Advice or guidance required.
> If I removed the 'eyebrows' on Continental A75 to use as 'pattern' to renew
> them would it do any harm if I flew without them for a little while?
> Temperatures here in UK are very rarely above 70F. The Cowls on my Corben
> are open Piper J3 type. Photo attached.
> Regards
> Gerry
>
> Gerry Holland
> 07808 402404
> gholland@content-stream.co.uk
>
> Based at White Ox Mead, Near Bath, UK
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Continental A75 Eyebrows |
Thanks Guys for your very good advice based on experience.
I will make =8Ccard=B9 templates as is and leave them on. Thanks for that Dan.
Obvious and I didn=B9t see it!
Regards to you all and hoping weather being kind in US.
Regards
Gerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Ash <ashcan(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Continental A75 Eyebrows |
Assuming your old ones are minimally usable, there's a copying technique used by
metal shapers which could serve you well here:
Sometimes this can be done with the part in place, but in this case, you'll probably
want to remove them.
Get a few rolls of low-tack painter's tape (the blue stuff), not too wide, maybe
3/4-1". Completely cover the eyebrow surface with it, in parallel strips, slightly
overlapping. Now get some fiberglass-reinforced tape, and lay that in similar
fashion, but across the 'grain' of the painter's tape. The concept here
is to lay the tape down like plywood. Some people stop here, but I always add
another layer of fiberglass tape so I've got two cross-grains of the fiberglass,
for strength. Poke holes or mark with a sharpie any rivets, fittings or assorted
doo-dads you'll need to reference for the new one. Carefully peel the mess
off. Sprinkle talcum powder on the inside of the form to destroy the remaining
tack from the painter's tape.
You now have a preserved image of the shape. Put the eyebrows back on the plane
and go flying. When the weather sucks, use the tape form as the reference to
make a new one. FYI - Some things in pairs like this are mirror images of each
other. If that's truly the case here (and I don't know if it is), you can turn
the form inside-out and make its mate also.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
From: Gerry Holland
Sent: Jul 7, 2010 12:59 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Continental A75 Eyebrows
Hi to all.
Advice or guidance required.
If I removed the 'eyebrows' on Continental A75 to use as 'pattern' to renew them
would it do any harm if I flew without them for a little while?
Temperatures here in UK are very rarely above 70F. The Cowls on my Corben are open
Piper J3 type. Photo attached.
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
07808 402404
gholland@content-stream.co.uk
Based at White Ox Mead, Near Bath, UK
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Avionics thoughts |
| From: | "j_dunavin" <j_dunavin(at)hotmail.com> |
Just wondering what other's thoughts are on more modern avionics?
Obviously an intercom is pretty important, unless you where building a scout.
What are others doing for Comm and Nav? Or maybe no Nav? Transponder?
I was thinking on a hand held NavComm. That way I would not always have to have
one with me. As in if I was just flying down to my dad's grass airstrip.
I also am considering some sort of hand held GPS. Maybe one of those that run off
of your palm pilot.
Like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Aviation-Garmin-portable-moving-map-GPS-HSI-navigation-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem563c973ab2QQitemZ370383731378QQptZMotorsQ5fAviationQ5fPartsQ5fGear
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=304065#304065
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "womenfly2" <keriannprice(at)hotmail.com> |
[Idea] You can also use linseed oil. Good penetration into the wood and no build
up in the hole. One can use a squeeze bottle with a nozzle to apply it.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=304069#304069
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Avionics thoughts |
Most of us are using handheld radios. They are available with a NAV
function, but I don't think it would be very useful in a Piet. I also
carry a hand-held GPS if I'm going any distance. If you don't have an
electric system with an alternator (like a hand-prop Continental) you
aren't required to have a transponder. If you have a charging system
you have to have a transponder. I think this is one advantage the
Continenal has over most Corvair installations. I have an intercom, but
only turn it on when I have something important to say, because the
noise it makes in the headsets is irritating to me.
Ben Charvet
Mims, Fl
On 7/7/2010 2:08 PM, j_dunavin wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "j_dunavin"
>
> Just wondering what other's thoughts are on more modern avionics?
> Obviously an intercom is pretty important, unless you where building a scout.
> What are others doing for Comm and Nav? Or maybe no Nav? Transponder?
> I was thinking on a hand held NavComm. That way I would not always have to have
one with me. As in if I was just flying down to my dad's grass airstrip.
> I also am considering some sort of hand held GPS. Maybe one of those that run
off of your palm pilot.
> Like this:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Aviation-Garmin-portable-moving-map-GPS-HSI-navigation-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem563c973ab2QQitemZ370383731378QQptZMotorsQ5fAviationQ5fPartsQ5fGear
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=304065#304065
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Continental A75 Eyebrows |
As Harry Fenton (the Guru of small Continental engines) told me, any
airplane that doesn't have cooling shrouds or a pressure cowling will
eventually have problems with the cylinders due to insufficient cooling. I
had pointed out a Rose Parrakeet that had no shrouds at all. He just said
"it's a matter of time". And I can tell you, any time you have cylinder
problems, those are EXPENSIVE problems.
I just made a new set of shrouds for my Pietenpol after my initial set
cracked for the third time (new set is thicker, stronger material). It only
took a few hours' work to make a set, when you have the old set for a
pattern.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Mueller
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 1:31 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental A75 Eyebrows
Additionally, at least on an A-75, if you remove the eyebrows the
inter-cylinder baffling doesn't even come in to play because you are no
longer collecting the incoming air and attempting to direct it between the
cooling fins on the cylinders. Especially at the slow speeds a Piet/Corben
would fly at you will "overheat" the engine, at the very least damaging the
rear cylinders as they will run quite hot.
Just more motivation to quickly knock out a new set of eyebrows so you can
get back to flying...
Ryan
On Wed, Jul 7, 2010 at 12:19 PM, Jim Ash wrote:
Don't do it.
While I can't say I've seen it in an airplane, I've toyed with Corvairs for
many years. those engines have special baffling on the back sides of the air
flow to direct it to the back fins. People who rebuild Corvair engines
without knowing what they're doing sometimes leave them off. Without the
baffling, there isn't any serious airflow back there, just turbulence, and
things don't get cooled properly. The result is that the bottoms of the
cylinders overheat and crystallize. The inside of those jugs have that
distinctive blue hue of overheated metal. At that point, they're trash.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
From: Gerry Holland
Sent: Jul 7, 2010 12:59 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Continental A75 Eyebrows
Hi to all.
Advice or guidance required.
If I removed the 'eyebrows' on Continental A75 to use as 'pattern' to renew
them would it do any harm if I flew without them for a little while?
Temperatures here in UK are very rarely above 70F. The Cowls on my Corben
are open Piper J3 type. Photo attached.
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
07808 402404
gholland@content-stream.co.uk
Based at White Ox Mead, Near Bath, UK
=======================
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==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Ash <ashcan(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Continental A75 Eyebrows |
Jack -
I'm a little curious about your cracking. Has it originated in the same places
on every set? What material are you using and what hardness?
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Phillips
Sent: Jul 7, 2010 4:36 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Continental A75 Eyebrows
As Harry Fenton (the Guru of small Continental engines) told me, any airplane
that doesnt have cooling shrouds or a pressure cowling will eventually have problems
with the cylinders due to insufficient cooling. I had pointed out a Rose
Parrakeet that had no shrouds at all. He just said its a matter of time.
And I can tell you, any time you have cylinder problems, those are EXPENSIVE problems.
I just made a new set of shrouds for my Pietenpol after my initial set cracked
for the third time (new set is thicker, stronger material). It only took a few
hours work to make a set, when you have the old set for a pattern.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Mueller
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 1:31 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental A75 Eyebrows
Additionally, at least on an A-75, if you remove the eyebrows the inter-cylinder
baffling doesn't even come in to play because you are no longer collecting the
incoming air and attempting to direct it between the cooling fins on the cylinders.
Especially at the slow speeds a Piet/Corben would fly at you will "overheat"
the engine, at the very least damaging the rear cylinders as they will
run quite hot.
Just more motivation to quickly knock out a new set of eyebrows so you can get
back to flying...
Ryan
On Wed, Jul 7, 2010 at 12:19 PM, Jim Ash wrote:
Don't do it.
While I can't say I've seen it in an airplane, I've toyed with Corvairs for many
years. those engines have special baffling on the back sides of the air flow
to direct it to the back fins. People who rebuild Corvair engines without knowing
what they're doing sometimes leave them off. Without the baffling, there
isn't any serious airflow back there, just turbulence, and things don't get cooled
properly. The result is that the bottoms of the cylinders overheat and crystallize.
The inside of those jugs have that distinctive blue hue of overheated
metal. At that point, they're trash.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
From: Gerry Holland
Sent: Jul 7, 2010 12:59 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Continental A75 Eyebrows
Hi to all.
Advice or guidance required.
If I removed the 'eyebrows' on Continental A75 to use as 'pattern' to renew them
would it do any harm if I flew without them for a little while?
Temperatures here in UK are very rarely above 70F. The Cowls on my Corben are open
Piper J3 type. Photo attached.
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
07808 402404
gholland@content-stream.co.uk
Based at White Ox Mead, Near Bath, UK
=======================
st" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List style=" font-size:10.0pt;color:black;="================| Subject: | Re: Harvey Rule's Ethanol Rant |
| From: | "tkreiner" <tkreiner(at)gmail.com> |
Jeff, Harvey, et al,
As for fuel attacking the carburetor, and/or other components in the fuel system,
what has been found so far is that most of the gaskets made from 30's vintage
gasket paper (nearly everything in an aircraft carb), had not suffered any
effects from fuels containing ethanol. The preliminary indications are that,
with the simple change from neoprene hoses to polyurethane, along with a new,
or modified (don't know which) mixture cable/control, a/c engines will run a wide
range of mixtures of ethanol, up to, and including, pure ethanol. Obviously,
there will be a learning curve as to how to prevent the accumulation of moisture,
along with a host of other items.
While I believe the group on the study has been involved with the teardown of
carbs, I have not heard any specific information about their findings. One could
speculate that an examination would be required in order to ensure internal
corrosion is not a factor. The next time I speak with my contact, I'll be sure
to inquire about any other effects.
As far as I currently know, however, the only required changes were in the rubber
materials used in the hoses, etc. Viton O-Rings are completely impervious
to any concentration of alcohols, and one would assume that a Viton tipped float
needle would also be impervious. That would have to be verified, however,
and it's probably in the works. (If, in fact, a 1980's material such as Viton
has actually been approved by the FAA...)
When additional information becomes available, I'll add a post to mention it.
--------
Tom Kreiner
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=304090#304090
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Continental A75 Eyebrows |
Original cracking was on the bracket that attached the left shroud to the
rocker box covers. The bracket was 2024-T3 aluminum, while the shrouds were
.025" 3003 1/4 hard aluminum. First the left forward bracket broke, then
the left rear, then the right forward, so I replaced all the brackets with
steel. Then on the way to Sun 'n' Fun this year the left shroud cracked
starting at the rivets that attached the left front bracket. I patched it
at SNF and then when I got home I made all new shrouds and brackets, using
.032" 5052 - H32 aluminum for the shrouds and .062" 4130 steel for the
brackets. So far so good.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Ash
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 5:28 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Continental A75 Eyebrows
Jack -
I'm a little curious about your cracking. Has it originated in the same
places on every set? What material are you using and what hardness?
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack Phillips
Sent: Jul 7, 2010 4:36 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Continental A75 Eyebrows
As Harry Fenton (the Guru of small Continental engines) told me, any
airplane that doesn't have cooling shrouds or a pressure cowling will
eventually have problems with the cylinders due to insufficient cooling. I
had pointed out a Rose Parrakeet that had no shrouds at all. He just said
"it's a matter of time". And I can tell you, any time you have cylinder
problems, those are EXPENSIVE problems.
I just made a new set of shrouds for my Pietenpol after my initial set
cracked for the third time (new set is thicker, stronger material). It only
took a few hours' work to make a set, when you have the old set for a
pattern.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Mueller
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 1:31 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental A75 Eyebrows
Additionally, at least on an A-75, if you remove the eyebrows the
inter-cylinder baffling doesn't even come in to play because you are no
longer collecting the incoming air and attempting to direct it between the
cooling fins on the cylinders. Especially at the slow speeds a Piet/Corben
would fly at you will "overheat" the engine, at the very least damaging the
rear cylinders as they will run quite hot.
Just more motivation to quickly knock out a new set of eyebrows so you can
get back to flying...
Ryan
On Wed, Jul 7, 2010 at 12:19 PM, Jim Ash wrote:
Don't do it.
While I can't say I've seen it in an airplane, I've toyed with Corvairs for
many years. those engines have special baffling on the back sides of the air
flow to direct it to the back fins. People who rebuild Corvair engines
without knowing what they're doing sometimes leave them off. Without the
baffling, there isn't any serious airflow back there, just turbulence, and
things don't get cooled properly. The result is that the bottoms of the
cylinders overheat and crystallize. The inside of those jugs have that
distinctive blue hue of overheated metal. At that point, they're trash.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
From: Gerry Holland
Sent: Jul 7, 2010 12:59 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Continental A75 Eyebrows
Hi to all.
Advice or guidance required.
If I removed the 'eyebrows' on Continental A75 to use as 'pattern' to renew
them would it do any harm if I flew without them for a little while?
Temperatures here in UK are very rarely above 70F. The Cowls on my Corben
are open Piper J3 type. Photo attached.
Regards
Gerry
Gerry Holland
07808 402404
gholland@content-stream.co.uk
Based at White Ox Mead, Near Bath, UK
=======================
st" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List style="
font-size:10.0pt;color:black;="================http://forums.matronics.com style="
font-size:10.0pt;color:black;="================http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avionics thoughts |
| From: | "j_dunavin" <j_dunavin(at)hotmail.com> |
Transponders:
I duno the way I read 91.215 is that I'm ok without a xponder, even with a generator,
as long as I stay out of a 30 mile radius of airports that are in appendix
D section 1.
(I haven't read that, but I think it's class B, D, and uh some others.)
And stay below 10,000 ft.
Any thoughts on that one?
HAHAHA 200 indicated hu? Maybe 200 ft. per hour.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=304096#304096
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Ash <ashcan(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Continental A75 Eyebrows |
I have a technique I use for non-quantitative stress (strain, technically, I guess)
analysis once in a while which might be handy for you.
You need a pair of polarized filters. The easiest place to find them is in the
glasses used for the new 3-d movies (not the red-blue ones). Hold them up between
you and a light source so you see the light through both filters, and turn
them until they're oriented in parallel and pass the most light. Take a model
of your part, made in plexiglass (or some plastic, like an old CD case), and
hold it between the two filters. The stresses in the part will show up like rainbow
colors around the stress points. The higher the concentration of colors,
the more the stress. You can change the stresses (twist it, poke at it, etc)
real time and watch the effects.
An L-shaped piece of plexiglass will show a pile of stress around the inside corner
of the L. If you were to make the piece with a rounded junction inside instead
of an abrupt one, you'd see a lot less stress. This is why metal castings
have fillets. Drilled holes are interesting, too. If you cut a slit in the plexiglass
to simulate a crack, you'd see how a stop-drilled hole reduces the stress
at the end of the crack and keeps it from propagating. You'll see stresses
around jagged edges, also. It can be a very graphic display of why you deburr
holes and eliminate scratches when working with metal.
My knowledge of optics is weak and I can't really tell you how this works, but
it does. It's helped me redesign parts that might have been problems. Maybe I
should bring some of the stuff to SNF next year for some show-and-tell.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
>From: Jack Phillips <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
>Sent: Jul 7, 2010 5:55 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Continental A75 Eyebrows
>
>
>Original cracking was on the bracket that attached the left shroud to the
>rocker box covers. The bracket was 2024-T3 aluminum, while the shrouds were
>.025" 3003 1/4 hard aluminum. First the left forward bracket broke, then
>the left rear, then the right forward, so I replaced all the brackets with
>steel. Then on the way to Sun 'n' Fun this year the left shroud cracked
>starting at the rivets that attached the left front bracket. I patched it
>at SNF and then when I got home I made all new shrouds and brackets, using
>.032" 5052 - H32 aluminum for the shrouds and .062" 4130 steel for the
>brackets. So far so good.
>
>Jack Phillips
>NX899JP
>Raleigh, NC
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Ash
>Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 5:28 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Continental A75 Eyebrows
>
>
>Jack -
>
>I'm a little curious about your cracking. Has it originated in the same
>places on every set? What material are you using and what hardness?
>
>Jim
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jack Phillips
>Sent: Jul 7, 2010 4:36 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Continental A75 Eyebrows
>
>
>As Harry Fenton (the Guru of small Continental engines) told me, any
>airplane that doesn't have cooling shrouds or a pressure cowling will
>eventually have problems with the cylinders due to insufficient cooling. I
>had pointed out a Rose Parrakeet that had no shrouds at all. He just said
>"it's a matter of time". And I can tell you, any time you have cylinder
>problems, those are EXPENSIVE problems.
>
>I just made a new set of shrouds for my Pietenpol after my initial set
>cracked for the third time (new set is thicker, stronger material). It only
>took a few hours' work to make a set, when you have the old set for a
>pattern.
>
>Jack Phillips
>NX899JP
>Raleigh, NC
>
>
>From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Mueller
>Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 1:31 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental A75 Eyebrows
>
>Additionally, at least on an A-75, if you remove the eyebrows the
>inter-cylinder baffling doesn't even come in to play because you are no
>longer collecting the incoming air and attempting to direct it between the
>cooling fins on the cylinders. Especially at the slow speeds a Piet/Corben
>would fly at you will "overheat" the engine, at the very least damaging the
>rear cylinders as they will run quite hot.
>
>
>Just more motivation to quickly knock out a new set of eyebrows so you can
>get back to flying...
>
>
>Ryan
>
>On Wed, Jul 7, 2010 at 12:19 PM, Jim Ash wrote:
>
>Don't do it.
>
>While I can't say I've seen it in an airplane, I've toyed with Corvairs for
>many years. those engines have special baffling on the back sides of the air
>flow to direct it to the back fins. People who rebuild Corvair engines
>without knowing what they're doing sometimes leave them off. Without the
>baffling, there isn't any serious airflow back there, just turbulence, and
>things don't get cooled properly. The result is that the bottoms of the
>cylinders overheat and crystallize. The inside of those jugs have that
>distinctive blue hue of overheated metal. At that point, they're trash.
>
>Jim Ash
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Gerry Holland
>Sent: Jul 7, 2010 12:59 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Continental A75 Eyebrows
>
>Hi to all.
>Advice or guidance required.
>If I removed the 'eyebrows' on Continental A75 to use as 'pattern' to renew
>them would it do any harm if I flew without them for a little while?
>Temperatures here in UK are very rarely above 70F. The Cowls on my Corben
>are open Piper J3 type. Photo attached.
>Regards
>Gerry
>
>Gerry Holland
>07808 402404
>gholland@content-stream.co.uk
>
>Based at White Ox Mead, Near Bath, UK
>
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Avionics thoughts |
| From: | "dgaldrich" <dgaldrich(at)embarqmail.com> |
I've got an XCom 760, light and compact, and am looking for a matching transponder.
My thinking is that I don't want to limit the places or routes if I want
to go cross-country and it's handy to listen for other traffic on CTAF here at
the home drome or anywhere for that matter. Some guys don't take the "see and
avoid" dictum to heart but most will at least yak on the radio.
I've also got an old Garmin 295 that will probably get Velcro mounted somewhere.
Yes, I know it adds weight and complexity but the added safety margin makes it
worthwhile to me, especially since I'm a member of the CSCS.
Dave Aldrich
Ribs done
Tailfeathers done
Wife taught to rib stitch
Corvair ready for test run
Fuselage sides done
Tickets to Brodhead purchased
Read this topic online here:
June 28, 2010 - July 07, 2010
Pietenpol-Archive.digest.vol-ji