Pietenpol-Archive.digest.vol-jq
September 18, 2010 - October 01, 2010
> I think I read somewhere that Jack Phillips was going to San Francisco fo
r
> business, or personal. Anyone going to that part of California would have
> about a 4-4 =BD hour drive down to Tulare, where Mike & Vic Groah are bui
lding
> their Piet. Vic also restores old (really, really old) cars and has a ver
y
> neat personal show room.
>
>
> If you treat the Groah=92s nicely and give them lots of compliments on th
eir
> Piet, they most likely will bestow upon you a really cool sticker for you
r
> back window.
>
>
> Thanks, Mike & Vic!
>
>
> Gary Boothe
> Cool, Ca.
> Pietenpol
> WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
> Tail done, Fuselage on gear
> (20 ribs down=85)
>
>
> *
>
>
===========
===========
=========
> =
===========
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Larry Morlock" <l.morlock(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lee Bottom Fly-In |
I'm planning to go to Lee Bottom too, and would like to commune with
other Piet builders. I have just finished covering and painting my
one-piece wing this summer in Columbus, IN, just north of Lee Bottom.
Look forward to seeing some Pietenpols.
Larry Morlock
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "amsafetyc(at)aol.com" <amsafetyc(at)aol.com> |
I agree how do we get them? Or from where or whom do we purchase them?
John
Sent via DROID on Verizon Wireless
-----Original message-----
From: Pieti Lowell <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Sat, Sep 18, 2010 00:19:12 GMT+00:00
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Sticker
I think every one that has a Pietenpol should have a sticker like that,on
their wind screen.
Pieti Lowell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312805#312805
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kevinpurtee" <kevin.purtee(at)us.army.mil> |
Tom - I'm pretty sure I built the gear per the plans and put the big tires on anyway.
Out of all the gear problems I've had, that angle hasn't been an issue.
Agree with Skip, no toe-in or toe-out. If you do err towards toe-out as Skip
says, you'll need really good springs/bungees to keep the gear from trying
to do the splits every time you roll forward. Again, straight as you can get
them.
Split Axel Kevin
--------
Kevin Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312847#312847
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Got an engine! |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
If I recall Dan, it's not the corn fields in Illinois one needs to worry about,
it's those pesky soybean fields!
[Wink]
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312850#312850
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Appropriate Flying Footwear |
| From: | "kevinpurtee" <kevin.purtee(at)us.army.mil> |
Tried to attend a fly-in in Louise, TX yesterday and today. Got pushed back by
wxr both days. Anyway, yesterday I didn't have my normal shoes. I was wearing
Crocs (sandals). The shoes fouled the pedals and brakes during landing - all
crosswinds. On one landing I tried hard to ground loop to the left and then
immediately to the right. The shoes were a real problem.
I wore my regular sneakers today. Magically, everything was fine, even with crosswinds.
Lesson learned! The experienced taildragger guys already know this, I bet.
Axel
--------
Kevin Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312851#312851
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Glide Performance with Regular Wing |
| From: | "kevinpurtee" <kevin.purtee(at)us.army.mil> |
Non-scientific, just FYI. I did a rough measurement of how long I'd glide with
the engine at idle. I dropped ~800 feet in ~1.4 miles at ~60 mph. Works out
to about 9:1?
Making no claims, just letting you know what I saw today.
Axel
--------
Kevin Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312852#312852
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
Hi Mike,
I=92m staying at the Navy Lodge. I don=92t know what accomodations are
available for dinner. I=92m attending a Structural Collapse Technician
school
to get my certification to join a FEMA disaster team. I don=92t know
how long
the classes are each day, or whether I=92ll be too tired to do anything
but go
to bed after class each day. The class runs from 1600 hrs Oct 23
through
1200 hrs Oct 29.
But give me a call (cellphone is 919-427-4440) or send me an email
(I=92ll
have internet access) and we=92ll see what we can do. I=92d like to
meet you.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mike
Hardaway
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 12:31 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Sticker
Jack,
Moffet's about 40 miles from SF. I pass by Vic Groah's place a couple
of
times a week. I can stop in and snag a couple of stickers if any are
available (Mike, Vic?).
Tell me where you're staying while at Moffet and we can meet for dinner
and
a sticker hand-off.
Mike Hardaway
On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 6:00 PM, Jack Phillips
wrote:
I=92ll be in San Francisco the last week of October. Unfortunately,
I=92ll be
in training all week with no ground transportation so I won=92t be able
to
leave Moffet Field. How do I get one of those stickers?
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Boothe
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 11:49 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Sticker
I think I read somewhere that Jack Phillips was going to San Francisco
for
business, or personal. Anyone going to that part of California would
have
about a 4-4 =BD hour drive down to Tulare, where Mike & Vic Groah are
building
their Piet. Vic also restores old (really, really old) cars and has a
very
neat personal show room.
If you treat the Groah=92s nicely and give them lots of compliments on
their
Piet, they most likely will bestow upon you a really cool sticker for
your
back window.
Thanks, Mike & Vic!
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(20 ribs down=85)
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
========
=
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lee Bottom Fly-In |
I am planning on arriving around 3-5 pm on friday, possibly earlier, come u
p and introduce yourself, I'll be around the orange and blue piet 92GB, and
I will try to remember my Pietenpol t-shirt.
-
Shad
--- On Sat, 9/18/10, Larry Morlock wrote:
From: Larry Morlock <l.morlock(at)att.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Lee Bottom Fly-In
Date: Saturday, September 18, 2010, 9:11 AM
I'm planning to go to Lee Bottom too, and would like to commune with other
Piet builders.- I have just finished covering and painting my one-piece w
ing this summer in Columbus, IN, just north of Lee Bottom.- Look forward
to seeing some Pietenpols.
-
--- Larry Morlock
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Related question- muffler hold-on nuts |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Hello all,
Started in on my annual inspection yesterday on the Aeronca Sedan. Pulled
the cowl and discovered that the left muffler (6 cylinder engine) was onl
y being held on by two of the six required 5/16'-28 brass exhaust nuts. On
e of the gaskets had completely blown out. Does anyone know of a type of
brass locknut that will do in that application? I thought I might try squ
ishing one end of the nut in a vice before I put them back on. Any ideas?
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 1 Year Anniversary |
Congrats Kevin, on 1 safe year of flying, (See Corvair haters they can last
ha ha).- Sorry I did not get to Brodhead this year, I was looking forwar
d to meeting you and your Piet.- Keep her flying and keep her "fat butt"
out of the trees, er brush, er mesquete,-er-cactus, What ever kind of v
egitation you fly over.
-
Shad
-=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | : Appropriate Flying Footwear |
Glad you brought this up. I always tell my potential passengers to
wear shoes they wouldn't mind walking out of a swamp in. Something I
was taught 25 years ago when I was training for my PP. It does unsettle
the potential passenger for a moment though....
Ben Charvet
On 9/18/2010 5:13 PM, kevinpurtee wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "kevinpurtee"
>
> Tried to attend a fly-in in Louise, TX yesterday and today. Got pushed back
by wxr both days. Anyway, yesterday I didn't have my normal shoes. I was wearing
Crocs (sandals). The shoes fouled the pedals and brakes during landing -
all crosswinds. On one landing I tried hard to ground loop to the left and then
immediately to the right. The shoes were a real problem.
>
> I wore my regular sneakers today. Magically, everything was fine, even with
crosswinds.
>
> Lesson learned! The experienced taildragger guys already know this, I bet.
>
> Axel
>
> --------
> Kevin Purtee
> NX899KP
> Austin/Georgetown, TX
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312851#312851
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Sornborger" <dsornbor(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | 6 Weeks into Piet |
Howdy,Heres what I have gotten done in 6 weeks,gonna fly it on my 50th
B'day end of Feb 2011.Every weekend 9 hrs a day every weekday 2 hrs, 1
week of vacation 90 hrs.Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
The way the bottom of the fuselage is shaped, on my Pietenpol as the
gear compresses and the bungees stretch, it develops some toe-out. With
the weight off the gear it has a very slight toe in. When taxiing, it
is neutral. It handles great though.
Ben
On 9/17/2010 9:35 PM, Skip Gadd wrote:
> Tom, Not sure about the angle, my split axle has springs and they are
> adjustable so I can make that decision later. I am sure that you do
> not want any toe-in. Exactly straight is best, err on the side of toe-out.
> Skip
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* TOM STINEMETZE
> *To: *Matronics Pietenpol List
> *Sent:* 9/16/2010 5:09:01 PM
> *Subject:* Pietenpol-List: Axle Angle
>
> *Question concerning axle alignment on a split axle gear. (Not a
> split Axel which is a different situation altogether.)*
> **
> *The plans for the split axle gear show the use of aircraft style
> balloon tires. Those plans indicate the axles should be set with
> a 2 angle from vertical when the bungees are fully extended. I
> am using 19" motorcycle tires and die springs instead of the
> balloons and bungees. Is the 2 angle still appropriate? Is any
> toe-in or toe-out desirable? I'm almost ready to weld these up so
> any useful information would be very welcome.*
> **
> *Tom Stinemetze*
> *N328X*
> **
>
> *<>*
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skellytown flyer" <skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com> |
Well I finally got to the day yesterday when I took the fuselage and wings to the
hangar.Not a big trip for me- in a town of 600 people you can get away with
a lot. I towed it up on it's mains right down main street and to my old tin
shed hangar.spent today bolting on wings and rigging cables.still a few things
to do including closing up the bottom of the center section now that I have the
cables rigged in there and safety wiring the turnbuckles.but I fired it up
and taxied it this afternoon.boy what a thrill. to think that maybe before the
first frost this thing will be capable of flight. Did notice one of my coils
is running rough on the Corvair. I had timed it and then noticed one set of points
was more burned. I expected that it would smooth up with a new set of points
and condenser. I installed them without checking the timing and when I switched
to it this afternoon I had some power loss.so I will need to go back and
double check gap and timing.but it has possibilities.Raymond
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312871#312871
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Related question- muffler hold-on nuts |
Dan,
Are you sure it is 28 pitch thread? ASS has a 5/16 x 24 exhaust nut
part 22022 for $1.11 each
Ben
On 9/18/2010 8:52 PM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
> Hello all,
> Started in on my annual inspection yesterday on the Aeronca Sedan.
> Pulled the cowl and discovered that the left muffler (6 cylinder
> engine) was only being held on by two of the six required 5/16'-28
> brass exhaust nuts. One of the gaskets had completely blown out. Does
> anyone know of a type of brass locknut that will do in that
> application? I thought I might try squishing one end of the nut in a
> vice before I put them back on. Any ideas?
> Dan Helsper
> Poplar Grove, IL.
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Markle <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6 Weeks into Piet |
Wow Dave! That's fantastic!
Forgive me if you've already answered this but...where are you located?
Again, looks good!
jm
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Sornborger
Sent: Sep 18, 2010 8:37 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: 6 Weeks into Piet
Howdy,Heres what I have gotten done in 6 weeks,gonna fly it on my 50th B'day end
of Feb 2011.Every weekend 9 hrs a day every weekday 2 hrs, 1 week of vacation
90 hrs.Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6 Weeks into Piet |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
You are a madman!
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings and Center Section framed up - Working on Empannage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312881#312881
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6 Weeks into Piet |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
That is AMAZING progress for having started only 6 weeks ago! At this rate, you
should meet your projected deadline for flying your Pietenpol! Keep it up,
I want to see your plane at Brodhead next July!
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312883#312883
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
Putting it all together and taxiing your plane for the first time is a great milestone!
Keep up the progress, and keep us updated!
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312884#312884
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lawrence Williams <lnawms(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | six weeks into a Piet |
Pretty amazing what can be accomplished when you want to build an aeroplane
instead of wasting time seeing how many "improvements" you can make to the
plans. Probably not too many internet posts about whether to use Elmer's or
Gorilla glue, either. I would say that you have embraced the persona of a lad in
the 30's who wants to fly. My kind of guy, way to go!!
Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Related question- muffler hold-on nuts |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Ben,
You are correct. 24 threads/in.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Sat, Sep 18, 2010 8:47 pm
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Related question- muffler hold-on nuts
Dan,
Are you sure it is 28 pitch thread? ASS has a 5/16 x 24 exhaust nut part
22022 for $1.11 each
Ben
On 9/18/2010 8:52 PM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
Hello all,
Started in on my annual inspection yesterday on the Aeronca Sedan. Pulled
the cowl and discovered that the left muffler (6 cylinder engine) was onl
y being held on by two of the six required 5/16'-28 brass exhaust nuts. On
e of the gaskets had completely blown out. Does anyone know of a type of
brass locknut that will do in that application? I thought I might try squ
ishing one end of the nut in a vice before I put them back on. Any ideas?
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | 6 Weeks into Piet |
Looking good, Dave. Just don't get too caught up in meeting a deadline, or
that word can be prophetic.
I'm trying to figure out the engine you've shown. It looks like a
Continental without the intake system mounted, but if so it looks to be
mounted upside down on that engine mount. Or is it a Lycoming O-235 without
the starter ring gear in place? The picture is too small to tell.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Sornborger
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 9:38 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: 6 Weeks into Piet
Howdy,Heres what I have gotten done in 6 weeks,gonna fly it on my 50th B'day
end of Feb 2011.Every weekend 9 hrs a day every weekday 2 hrs, 1 week of
vacation 90 hrs.Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Question about wing painting |
| From: | "robisons" <robisons(at)mattoonillinois.org> |
I've noticed that some of the Piets have wings that allow light to shine through
while I was watching them fly while standing on the ground looking up. How
do you guys get light to show through your wing after painting them?
--------
SR78
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312909#312909
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Appropriate Flying Footwear |
Axel (err... Kevin)... I agree wholeheartedly with you. Wearing
the wrong footwear can ruin your rollout. It's happened to me,
too. My footwear of choice for flying the Piet are my Justin
Roper boots, which are a Wellington style, smooth rounded toes,
low heels. They have nothing on them to hang up on anything
and are easy to slide into the foot-holes. What they are NOT,
though, is appropriate for summertime flying in shorts and a
tee shirt (or so my wife tells me). In the summer I wear a
pair of tennis shoes... the slimmer and cleaner, the better.
Most running-type shoes have all kinds of lugs and contours
and laces and stuff on them, and none of that is good for
getting in and out of the airplane, and make them prone to
hang up on things up around your feet.
Others have reported the same experience. Maybe we should let
the FAA know so they can require us to install warning placards
in the cockpit 'APPROPRIATE FOOTWEAR REQUIRED FOR SAFE FLIGHT'.
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Rambo <generambo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Related question- muffler hold-on nuts |
if its a Continental=2C it might well be 28 threads=2C Continentals use fin
e thread exhause studs=2C Lycomings use a coarse thread. Brass nuts usualy
hold fine without backing off=2C first I would suggest using new nuts=2C t
he problem is most likely that they are old and not holding anymore. A lit
tle locktite would not hurt=2C or you could use a split locknut. Some of t
he newer=2C large continentals use a locknut on the exhause =2C but I think
they are something like 1/4" studs.
Gene
Date: Sat=2C 18 Sep 2010 21:47:07 -0400
From: bencharvet(at)gmail.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Related question- muffler hold-on nuts
Dan=2C
Are you sure it is 28 pitch thread? ASS has a 5/16 x 24 exhaust nut part 2
2022 for $1.11 each
Ben
On 9/18/2010 8:52 PM=2C helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
Hello all=2C
Started in on my annual inspection yesterday on the Aeronca Sedan. Pulled t
he cowl and discovered that the left muffler (6 cylinder engine) was only b
eing held on by two of the six required 5/16'-28 brass exhaust nuts. One of
the gaskets had completely blown out. Does anyone know of a type of brass
locknut that will do in that application? I thought I might try squishing o
ne end of the nut in a vice before I put them back on. Any ideas?
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove=2C IL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack" <jack(at)textors.com> |
| Subject: | 6 Weeks into Piet |
Yes Jack an 0-235 - check your Piet directory :-)
Keep up the steam Dave, way to go!
Jack
DSM
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jack
Phillips
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 7:48 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: 6 Weeks into Piet
Looking good, Dave. Just don't get too caught up in meeting a deadline, or
that word can be prophetic.
I'm trying to figure out the engine you've shown. It looks like a
Continental without the intake system mounted, but if so it looks to be
mounted upside down on that engine mount. Or is it a Lycoming O-235 without
the starter ring gear in place? The picture is too small to tell.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave
Sornborger
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 9:38 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: 6 Weeks into Piet
Howdy,Heres what I have gotten done in 6 weeks,gonna fly it on my 50th B'day
end of Feb 2011.Every weekend 9 hrs a day every weekday 2 hrs, 1 week of
vacation 90 hrs.Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kip and Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Appropriate Flying Footwear |
Yeah, Wellies with shorts and a t-shirt - exactly what the stylish
stable-mucker wears in summer ;). While I don't yet have any pedal
experience with a Piet (except for a flight in Mike C's many years
ago), I have found that for similar situations, boat shoes (i.e.
Sperry Topsiders) work well for the same reason as Oscar's preferred
tennis shoes. I like the kind that have laces, so that I can tie
them to the tightness I want.
Kip Gardner
On Sep 19, 2010, at 10:48 AM, Oscar Zuniga wrote:
>
>
>
> Axel (err... Kevin)... I agree wholeheartedly with you. Wearing
> the wrong footwear can ruin your rollout. It's happened to me,
> too. My footwear of choice for flying the Piet are my Justin
> Roper boots, which are a Wellington style, smooth rounded toes,
> low heels. They have nothing on them to hang up on anything
> and are easy to slide into the foot-holes. What they are NOT,
> though, is appropriate for summertime flying in shorts and a
> tee shirt (or so my wife tells me). In the summer I wear a
> pair of tennis shoes... the slimmer and cleaner, the better.
> Most running-type shoes have all kinds of lugs and contours
> and laces and stuff on them, and none of that is good for
> getting in and out of the airplane, and make them prone to
> hang up on things up around your feet.
>
> Others have reported the same experience. Maybe we should let
> the FAA know so they can require us to install warning placards
> in the cockpit 'APPROPRIATE FOOTWEAR REQUIRED FOR SAFE FLIGHT'.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Air Camper NX41CC
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dan P" <dlplett(at)swko.net> |
It's great when small pieces are finally being assembled to make one big piece.
:)
I think I see a perma-grin in the picture?
--------
Dan Plett
N28WH
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312938#312938
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/skellytown_flyer_017f_166.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/skellytown_flyer_017f_166.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Boyer <boyerjrb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 6 Weeks into Piet |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dortch, Steven D MAJ NG NG NGB" <steven.d.dortch(at)us.army.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Appropriate Flying Footwear |
I was always taught to dress the way you want to spend the night. Then you can
take stuff off.
Blue Skies,
Steve D
On 09/19/10, Kip and Beth Gardner wrote:
>
> Yeah, Wellies with shorts and a t-shirt - exactly what the stylish stable-mucker
wears in summer ;). While I don't yet have any pedal experience with a Piet
(except for a flight in Mike C's many years ago), I have found that for similar
situations, boat shoes (i.e. Sperry Topsiders) work well for the same reason
as Oscar's preferred tennis shoes. I like the kind that have laces, so
that I can tie them to the tightness I want.
>
> Kip Gardner
>
> On Sep 19, 2010, at 10:48 AM, Oscar Zuniga wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >Axel (err... Kevin)... I agree wholeheartedly with you. Wearing
> >the wrong footwear can ruin your rollout. It's happened to me,
> >too. My footwear of choice for flying the Piet are my Justin
> >Roper boots, which are a Wellington style, smooth rounded toes,
> >low heels. They have nothing on them to hang up on anything
> >and are easy to slide into the foot-holes. What they are NOT,
> >though, is appropriate for summertime flying in shorts and a
> >tee shirt (or so my wife tells me). In the summer I wear a
> >pair of tennis shoes... the slimmer and cleaner, the better.
> >Most running-type shoes have all kinds of lugs and contours
> >and laces and stuff on them, and none of that is good for
> >getting in and out of the airplane, and make them prone to
> >hang up on things up around your feet.
> >
> >Others have reported the same experience. Maybe we should let
> >the FAA know so they can require us to install warning placards
> >in the cockpit 'APPROPRIATE FOOTWEAR REQUIRED FOR SAFE FLIGHT'.
> >
> >Oscar Zuniga
> >Air Camper NX41CC
> >San Antonio, TX
> >mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> >website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Sornborger" <dsornbor(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | 6 weeks-fanatic-Madman |
Howdy again,thanks for the replys.I guess I am a fanatic-madman.I have
wanted to do this for 30 years,I am single now,have nothing I want to do
more and all the skills to put it together and a place to do it.I
haven't asked any questions other than on fabric
and haven't found any brilliant ideas that are any better than Bernies
original instuctions.There are a few obvious (to me) alterations,but all
in all the plans and instructions are good for me.Aside from using T-88
instead of Cassein I have done it old school.I just want to fly it-to
Alaska.Oh yeah it will have an O-235 with a Sensenich metal prop and
Tundra Tires and Super Cub struts.The way I figure it if Bernie could
build 3 in a year I should be able to build 1 in 7 months with modern
tools,we'll see.
Thanks,Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Greg Cardinal's Piet spotted |
Scroll to the last page of this newsletter:
http://home.comcast.net/~petegavin/eaa25/eaa251009.pdf
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Appropriate Flying Footwear |
| From: | Andrew M Eldredge <andrew.eldredge(at)gmail.com> |
Flipflops = bad.
The ash/oak cross beams have made this a prolem because it offers a
convenient place for the back of your shoe to catch, and if the sole is
thick enough, it can jam the rudder bar completely. They are not very safe
for hand propping in my opinion either. I try to be mindful to wear shoes
that fit well and close over my foot. The front pit is not any better (if
you've ever tried to fly from there) Same problem, different cross member,
minus the jamming. I've thought that height of those rudder pedals could go
down by a third.
Andrew Eldredge
Sahuarita, AZ,
p.s. Glued some washers in the tail with C.A. Yesterday, to help with
placing the hardware easier, has anyone tried something similar with the
nuts?
On Sat, Sep 18, 2010 at 2:13 PM, kevinpurtee wrote:
> kevin.purtee(at)us.army.mil>
>
> Tried to attend a fly-in in Louise, TX yesterday and today. Got pushed
> back by wxr both days. Anyway, yesterday I didn't have my normal shoes. I
> was wearing Crocs (sandals). The shoes fouled the pedals and brakes during
> landing - all crosswinds. On one landing I tried hard to ground loop to the
> left and then immediately to the right. The shoes were a real problem.
>
> I wore my regular sneakers today. Magically, everything was fine, even
> with crosswinds.
>
> Lesson learned! The experienced taildragger guys already know this, I bet.
>
> Axel
>
> --------
> Kevin Purtee
> NX899KP
> Austin/Georgetown, TX
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312851#312851
>
>
--
Andrew Eldredge
Sahuarita, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Greg Cardinal's Piet spotted |
Here is a higher res version.
It was taken on Sunday, September 5th on the way to the Log Cabin fly-in in
Mondovi, WI.
We had just crossed the Mississippi River and were approaching the Chippewa
River, all the ravines were filled with fog. We descended to within 50' of
the top of the fog.
It was a lovely flight.
Greg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 4:39 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Greg Cardinal's Piet spotted
>
>
> Scroll to the last page of this newsletter:
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~petegavin/eaa25/eaa251009.pdf
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Air Camper NX41CC
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Greg Cardinal's Piet spotted |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
That is a great photo, and it captures the essence of the low and slow, open-cockpit
Piet experience about as good as any picture I've ever seen!
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313000#313000
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter W Johnson" <vk3eka(at)bigpond.net.au> |
| Subject: | Greg Cardinal's Piet spotted |
Greg,
Beautiful, its just become my desktop background.
Thanks
Peter
Wonthaggi Australia
http://www.cpc-world.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg
Cardinal
Sent: Monday, 20 September 2010 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Greg Cardinal's Piet spotted
Here is a higher res version.
It was taken on Sunday, September 5th on the way to the Log Cabin fly-in in
Mondovi, WI.
We had just crossed the Mississippi River and were approaching the Chippewa
River, all the ravines were filled with fog. We descended to within 50' of
the top of the fog.
It was a lovely flight.
Greg
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 4:39 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Greg Cardinal's Piet spotted
>
>
> Scroll to the last page of this newsletter:
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~petegavin/eaa25/eaa251009.pdf
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Air Camper NX41CC
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Tunnicliffe <zk-owl(at)CLEAR.NET.NZ> |
| Subject: | Re: Question about wing painting |
Hi, if the visible light can get through so can the UV, and the fabric will
not last very long,
regards Mike T.
----- Original Message -----
From: "robisons" <robisons(at)mattoonillinois.org>
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 2:26 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Question about wing painting
>
>
> I've noticed that some of the Piets have wings that allow light to shine
> through while I was watching them fly while standing on the ground looking
> up. How do you guys get light to show through your wing after painting
> them?
>
> --------
> SR78
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312909#312909
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Question about wing painting |
Robisons wrote:
>I've noticed that some of the Piets have wings that allow light
>to shine through while I was watching them fly while standing
>on the ground looking up. How do you guys get light to show
>through your wing after painting them?
The other reply was right on the money: if you can see light through
the wing, that means UV is getting to the fabric. I just had the
experience of having an A&P tell me that there may not be sufficient
Poly-Spray (silver) on my fabric because he could see light coming
through in places. A punch test determined that the fabric is still
just fine (the airplane is always hangared, rarely parked outside for
very long, and not flown a great deal). UV will kill synthetic fabric
very quickly, as many tests have shown. Search the list archives for
Rick Holland's latex paint test- I believe his test fabric punched
clear through in a year of exposure with no UV block.
However, I've seen many instances where silver (or other UV block) is
only used on the top surface of the wing, the side that sees most of
the UV. This is done to save the weight and expense of finishing the
underside of the wings and that may be what you've noticed on some
airplanes.
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TOM STINEMETZE" <TOMS(at)mcpcity.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6 Weeks into Piet |
Dave:
I applaud your perseverence! You're making great headway. Just a word of
caution, however; never compromise safety in order to make a calendar
appointment. If you have to fly a while later than you planned that would
not be "failure" but "intelligence."
Tom Stinemetze
McPherson, KS.
>>> "Dave Sornborger" 9/18/2010 8:37 PM >>>
>>>Howdy,Heres what I have gotten done in 6 weeks,gonna fly it on my 50th
B'day end of Feb 2011.Every weekend 9 hrs a day every weekday 2 hrs, 1
week of vacation 90 hrs.Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Pedal Piet plans |
I have a new and unused set of plans for the
"Pedal Piet" for young children:
http://www.pedalplanekits.com/piet.html
These plans cost about $25 from Aviation Products.
If you're interested in these plans, email me
off-list. If you start building today, you could
have a Christmas present for your favorite young
Piet pilot. $15 to the first responder. Thanks!
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pedal Piet plans |
| From: | Chet Hartley <chethartley1(at)mchsi.com> |
I would like to have them.
Chethartley1(at)mchsi.com
573-645-0534
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 20, 2010, at 8:26 AM, Oscar Zuniga wrote:
>
>
> I have a new and unused set of plans for the
> "Pedal Piet" for young children:
>
> http://www.pedalplanekits.com/piet.html
>
> These plans cost about $25 from Aviation Products.
> If you're interested in these plans, email me
> off-list. If you start building today, you could
> have a Christmas present for your favorite young
> Piet pilot. $15 to the first responder. Thanks!
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Air Camper NX41CC
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | metal size for tail fittings |
| From: | "echobravo4" <eab4(at)comcast.net> |
i've been going through the archives and just want to double check-
Is .080 good for the tail fittings or should i use .090?
Also, is .032 good for the tail control horns?
I have all the wood for the tail on the way and am ready to call Dillsurg
to order the metal for the fittings.
Thanks for any help-
Earl
--------
Earl Brown
I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I
intended to be.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313067#313067
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: metal size for tail fittings |
The prints call for .090 in. on the tail fittings. I recently made mine that way,
too.
-----Original Message-----
>From: echobravo4 <eab4(at)comcast.net>
>Sent: Sep 20, 2010 12:19 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: metal size for tail fittings
>
>
>i've been going through the archives and just want to double check-
>Is .080 good for the tail fittings or should i use .090?
>Also, is .032 good for the tail control horns?
>
>I have all the wood for the tail on the way and am ready to call Dillsurg
>to order the metal for the fittings.
>
>Thanks for any help-
>Earl
>
>--------
>Earl Brown
>
>I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where
I intended to be.
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313067#313067
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Boyer <boyerjrb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: metal size for tail fittings |
Hi Earl,
the control horns are all made with 0.032" steel formed to be hollow when welded
for strength.
Jim B.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Willis" <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 11:38:50 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: metal size for tail fittings
The prints call for .090 in. on the tail fittings. I recently made mine that way,
too.
-----Original Message-----
>From: echobravo4 <eab4(at)comcast.net>
>Sent: Sep 20, 2010 12:19 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: metal size for tail fittings
>
>
>i've been going through the archives and just want to double check-
>Is .080 good for the tail fittings or should i use .090?
>Also, is .032 good for the tail control horns?
>
>I have all the wood for the tail on the way and am ready to call Dillsurg
>to order the metal for the fittings.
>
>Thanks for any help-
>Earl
>
>--------
>Earl Brown
>
>I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where
I intended to be.
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313067#313067
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Groah <dskogrover(at)yahoo.com> |
Mike Hardaway, come by sometime and I'll get you a sticker for Jack if you'
re =0Agonna try to meet up with him. I have a few already made up and I'll
make a few =0Aadditional ones if anyone wants them. I have to fire up the
machine to make a =0Asticker for one of my students anyways. =0A=0A=0AI h
ad made up the sticker as a design for a logo on the side of my plane and
=0Adecided to make a small one to stick to the cover of my Piet's photo alb
um. =0AChris Tracy had seen it at the West Coast Pietenpol Gathering and h
e expressed =0Aan interest in one. So I made him one and a few extras (Gar
y Boothe came by to =0Avisit and I gave him one, but I still haven't sent C
hris his yet). =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0A
From: mike Hardaway <bkemike(at)gmail.com>=0ATo: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
=0ASent: Fri, September 17, 2010 9:30:30 PM=0ASubject: Re: Pietenpol-List:
Sticker=0A=0AJack,=0AMoffet's about 40 miles from SF. I pass by Vic Groah'
s place a couple of times =0Aa week. I can stop in and snag a couple of st
ickers if any are available (Mike, =0AVic?).=0ATell me where you're staying
while at Moffet and we can meet for dinner and a =0Asticker hand-off.=0AMi
ke Hardaway=0A=0A=0AOn Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 6:00 PM, Jack Phillips wrote:=0A=0AI=99ll be in San Francisco the last week
of October. Unfortunately, I=99ll be in =0Atraining all week with n
o ground transportation so I won=99t be able to leave =0AMoffet Field
. How do I get one of those stickers?=0A> =0A>Jack Phillips=0A>NX899JP=0A
>Raleigh, NC=0A> =0A>=0A________________________________=0A =0A>From:owner-
pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com =0A>[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server
@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Boothe=0A>Sent: Friday, September 17, 201
0 11:49 AM=0A>=0A>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com=0A>Subject: Pietenpol-Li
st: Sticker =0A> =0A>I think I read somewhere that Jack Phillips was going
to San Francisco for =0A>business, or personal. Anyone going to that par
t of California would have about =0A>a 4-4 =C2=BD hour drive down to Tulare
, where Mike & Vic Groah are building their =0A>Piet. Vic also restores old
(really, really old) cars and has a very neat =0A>personal show room. =0A>
=0A> =0A>If you treat the Groah=99s nicely and give them lots of comp
liments on their Piet, =0A>they most likely will bestow upon you a really c
ool sticker for your back =0A>window.=0A> =0A>Thanks, Mike & Vic!=0A> =0A>G
ary Boothe =0A>Cool, Ca. =0A>Pietenpol =0A>WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
=0A>Tail done, Fuselage on gear =0A>(20 ribs down) =0A> =0A> " ta
rget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List =0A>tp://
forums.matronics.com =========== =0A>_blank">http://w
=== =0A=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kringle" <Mrkringles(at)msn.com> |
I'll purchase one as well. Just post the details and I'll send you some money.
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313103#313103
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Boyer <boyerjrb(at)comcast.net> |
Hi Michael,
My wife and I will be in Visalia early in November. I would like to come see your
Piet again if you are home and would also like a sticker if you have enough.
Cheers,
Jim B.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Groah" <dskogrover(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 12:15:50 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Sticker
Mike Hardaway, come by sometime and I'll get you a sticker for Jack if you're gonna
try to meet up with him. I have a few already made up and I'll make a few
additional ones if anyone wants them. I have to fire up the machine to make a
sticker for one of my students anyways.
I had made up the sticker as a design for a logo on the side of my plane and decided
to make a small one to stick to the cover of my Piet's photo album. Chris
Tracy had seen it at the West Coast Pietenpol Gathering and he expressed an
interest in one. So I made him one and a few extras (Gary Boothe came by to visit
and I gave him one, but I still haven't sent Chris his yet).
From: mike Hardaway <bkemike(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Fri, September 17, 2010 9:30:30 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Sticker
Jack,
Moffet's about 40 miles from SF. I pass by Vic Groah's place a couple of times
a week. I can stop in and snag a couple of stickers if any are available (Mike,
Vic?).
Tell me where you're staying while at Moffet and we can meet for dinner and a sticker
hand-off.
Mike Hardaway
On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 6:00 PM, Jack Phillips < pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net > wrote:
Ill be in San Francisco the last week of October. Unfortunately, Ill be in training
all week with no ground transportation so I wont be able to leave Moffet
Field. How do I get one of those stickers?
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com ] On Behalf Of Gary Boothe
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 11:49 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Sticker
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Sticker
I think I read somewhere that Jack Phillips was going to San Francisco for business,
or personal. Anyone going to that part of California would have about a
4-4 hour drive down to Tulare, where Mike & Vic Groah are building their Piet.
Vic also restores old (really, really old) cars and has a very neat personal
show room.
If you treat the Groahs nicely and give them lots of compliments on their Piet,
they most likely will bestow upon you a really cool sticker for your back window.
Thanks, Mike & Vic!
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done,Fuselageon gear
(20 ribs down)
" target="_blank"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List tp://forums.matronics.com
========= =
_blank"> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://www.matronics.com/Naviga=======================
k" href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com _a rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="http://www.matronics.com/contr====
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6 Weeks into Piet |
| From: | "Mark M" <mmcfi(at)juno.com> |
I call BS!! Everyone knows it takes 2 years and 6 mos just to build 20 ribs
Gary Boothe
I think that if you take into account his statement that he has wanted to do
this for 30 years that his time line will work out just about right....
Mark
Now according to this line of thinking i only have 18 years 4 months and 13 days
to go... :D :) :( [Crying or Very sad]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313118#313118
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
I=92ll happily pay for one (or more) of those stickers. Name your
price!
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Groah
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 3:16 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Sticker
Mike Hardaway, come by sometime and I'll get you a sticker for Jack if
you're gonna try to meet up with him. I have a few already made up and
I'll
make a few additional ones if anyone wants them. I have to fire up the
machine to make a sticker for one of my students anyways.
I had made up the sticker as a design for a logo on the side of my plane
and
decided to make a small one to stick to the cover of my Piet's photo
album.
Chris Tracy had seen it at the West Coast Pietenpol Gathering and he
expressed an interest in one. So I made him one and a few extras (Gary
Boothe came by to visit and I gave him one, but I still haven't sent
Chris
his yet).
_____
From: mike Hardaway <bkemike(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Fri, September 17, 2010 9:30:30 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Sticker
Jack,
Moffet's about 40 miles from SF. I pass by Vic Groah's place a couple
of
times a week. I can stop in and snag a couple of stickers if any are
available (Mike, Vic?).
Tell me where you're staying while at Moffet and we can meet for dinner
and
a sticker hand-off.
Mike Hardaway
On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 6:00 PM, Jack Phillips
wrote:
I=92ll be in San Francisco the last week of October. Unfortunately,
I=92ll be
in training all week with no ground transportation so I won=92t be able
to
leave Moffet Field. How do I get one of those stickers?
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Boothe
Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 11:49 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Sticker
I think I read somewhere that Jack Phillips was going to San Francisco
for
business, or personal. Anyone going to that part of California would
have
about a 4-4 =BD hour drive down to Tulare, where Mike & Vic Groah are
building
their Piet. Vic also restores old (really, really old) cars and has a
very
neat personal show room.
If you treat the Groah=92s nicely and give them lots of compliments on
their
Piet, they most likely will bestow upon you a really cool sticker for
your
back window.
Thanks, Mike & Vic!
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(20 ribs down=85)
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
========
=
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
http://forums.matronics.com
_a rel="nofollow" target="_blank"
href="http://www.matronics.com/contr===
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Groah <dskogrover(at)yahoo.com> |
I'm not worried about getting paid for the stickers. They cost me almost not
hing to make. For those that I end up having to ship them to, I wouldn't min
d being reimbursed for the shipping costs. That's it.
Mike Groah
Tulare CA
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 20, 2010, at 3:20 PM, "Jack Phillips" wrote:
> I=99ll happily pay for one (or more) of those stickers. Name your p
rice!
>
> Jack Phillips
> NX899JP
> Raleigh, NC
>
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-li
st-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Groah
> Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 3:16 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Sticker
>
> Mike Hardaway, come by sometime and I'll get you a sticker for Jack if you
're gonna try to meet up with him. I have a few already made up and I'll ma
ke a few additional ones if anyone wants them. I have to fire up the machin
e to make a sticker for one of my students anyways.
>
> I had made up the sticker as a design for a logo on the side of my plane a
nd decided to make a small one to stick to the cover of my Piet's photo albu
m. Chris Tracy had seen it at the West Coast Pietenpol Gathering and he exp
ressed an interest in one. So I made him one and a few extras (Gary Boothe c
ame by to visit and I gave him one, but I still haven't sent Chris his yet).
>
>
>
> From: mike Hardaway <bkemike(at)gmail.com>
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Fri, September 17, 2010 9:30:30 PM
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Sticker
>
> Jack,
> Moffet's about 40 miles from SF. I pass by Vic Groah's place a couple of t
imes a week. I can stop in and snag a couple of stickers if any are availab
le (Mike, Vic?).
> Tell me where you're staying while at Moffet and we can meet for dinner an
d a sticker hand-off.
> Mike Hardaway
>
> On Fri, Sep 17, 2010 at 6:00 PM, Jack Phillips wr
ote:
> I=99ll be in San Francisco the last week of October. Unfortunately,
I=99ll be in training all week with no ground transportation so I won
=99t be able to leave Moffet Field. How do I get one of those sticker
s?
>
> Jack Phillips
> NX899JP
> Raleigh, NC
>
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-li
st-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Boothe
> Sent: Friday, September 17, 2010 11:49 AM
>
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Sticker
>
> I think I read somewhere that Jack Phillips was going to San Francisco for
business, or personal. Anyone going to that part of California would have a
bout a 4-4 =C2=BD hour drive down to Tulare, where Mike & Vic Groah are buil
ding their Piet. Vic also restores old (really, really old) cars and has a v
ery neat personal show room.
>
> If you treat the Groah=99s nicely and give them lots of compliments o
n their Piet, they most likely will bestow upon you a really cool sticker fo
r your back window.
>
> Thanks, Mike & Vic!
>
> Gary Boothe
> Cool, Ca.
> Pietenpol
> WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
> Tail done, Fuselage on gear
> (20 ribs down)
>
>
>
> " target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> ========
> =
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> http://forums.matronics.com
> _a rel="nofollow" target="_blank" href="http://www.matronics.com/con
tr===
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GliderMike" <glidermikeg(at)yahoo.com> |
I want one too. Mike send me an email at anpmikeg(at)yahoo.com with your address,
and I'll send money. If they can ever get my fingerprints done so they can do
the required background check, I'll be moving myself and my tool box to Baton
Rouge, to work on CRJ's. Quick trip to Atlanta and back tomorrow to get the
fingerprints done again.
--------
HOMEBUILDER
Will WORK for Spruce
Long flights, smooth air, and soft landings,
GliderMike, aka Mike Glasgow
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313162#313162
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick N" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Question about wing painting |
What I did on mine was to use Clear Poly tone paint with some stain pigment
added to it. YOu can get it from Stits Poly fiber direct, ask for Jon
Goldenbaum to order. Also add some UV protection from them .
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: "robisons" <robisons(at)mattoonillinois.org>
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 9:26 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Question about wing painting
>
>
> I've noticed that some of the Piets have wings that allow light to shine
> through while I was watching them fly while standing on the ground looking
> up. How do you guys get light to show through your wing after painting
> them?
>
> --------
> SR78
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312909#312909
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Greg Cardinal's Piet spotted |
| From: | "GliderMike" <glidermikeg(at)yahoo.com> |
Speaking of so much grass, do any of you Okies know if the airport at Pawnee, OK
is still grass, next to the golf course? I flew in there several years ago
(mid 80's) to do a skydiving thing in celebration of some milestone on a water
conversation lake near there. Don't remember what milestone we were celebrating,
other than it was the XXXth number dam built by one of the government agencies.
I don't even remember which agency was celebrating the milestone, but I
remember the runway. It was almost as manicured as a golf green. I still get
an ear to ear grin when I think about the runway. I've been on smooth paved
runways that weren't as smooth as that grass was. It was WONDERFUL! About the
only thing I don't miss about Oklahoma is when the wind is howling at 30 mph
and above. But I've seen it when the first hour after sunrise is smooth as
glass up to 1,000 ft, and the wind is almost too light. Two hours after the same
sunrise, the wind is doing 25 mph or more.
--------
HOMEBUILDER
Will WORK for Spruce
Long flights, smooth air, and soft landings,
GliderMike, aka Mike Glasgow
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313172#313172
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | 6 Weeks into Piet |
Harvey wrote-
>if you have enough people working on it and they all know
>what they are doing (not like me) then I think you should
>be able to crank out a Piet just about everyother day
1. Everyone who works on Piets knows what they are doing.
2. If you have more than one person working on a Piet at a
time, nothing will ever get done because they will never
agree on how to make a part, rig the airplane, lay out the
instrument panel, what type of engine is best, what paint
scheme to use, what size prop to use, what type of hardware
to use, or anything else. And they will each think they
know how Mr. Pietenpol did it or would have done it if he
were still alive today, or how the FAA books say it
should properly be done, or how Bingelis says it should be
done, or how they saw it done in a magazine article, or
how they think they can improve on 1929 technology, and
they will argue their point unflinchingly and indefinitely.
3. If you have MORE than two people working on a Piet, just
call it a beer and BS session and don't anybody touch any
part that might eventually fly, because it will be wrong,
it will be unairworthy, and Mr. Pietenpol would be
embarrassed if he ever saw it. Have fun and talk about
Piets, but don't expect to actually get anything done.
Now if you want to really make progress and build an actual
airplane, lock the door to your shop, unroll the plans, and
start building. That's what Corky did with 41CC, and I'm
flying the proof of it.
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6 Weeks into Piet |
| From: | "Kringle" <Mrkringles(at)msn.com> |
Test
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313195#313195
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6 Weeks into Piet |
| From: | "Kringle" <Mrkringles(at)msn.com> |
I was just trying to see if I could respond to a post without attaching the same
pictures attached to the original post and all the other baggage picked up along
the way. Isn't this easier to read than scrolling down through the the same
old replies after each response?
Excuse me because I'm in a grumpy old man type of mood this morning.
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313196#313196
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 6 Weeks into Piet |
| From: | "Kringle" <Mrkringles(at)msn.com> |
I'm not for shortening the responses. I don't need to scroll through the same
pictures over and over again to get to the latest response. If you have a slow
Internet connection or are following a thread with an iPod, this redundancy
can be time consuming and annoying.
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313203#313203
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Fuselage Construction |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
I am currently assembling my fuselage sides, but I am uncertain as to the best
approach. I have constructed a jig directly on my workbench table top, which
I used to assemble and glue my left fuselage side (gussets on inside right).
I planned to use the Pietenpol method of tracing that assembly on to my 1/8" plywood
in order to attach that to the next assembly since I obviously can't install
the gussets to the side laying on the table. This would be my right side
assembly (plywood sheet on the right side). While this method seems to make
good sense to me, I've got a couple of questions/observations...
1. Will having the plywood sheet on the right side make future processes more difficult?
Reasons that I shouldn't do it this way?
2. I notice that many builders have a completed skeletal structure with no plywood
sheet on the outside of the fuse (see Jack's photo below). How did you accomplish
this? I would like to use the same jig for both halves in order to make
exact copies for each assembly, but I can't figure out how else (or how better),
to accomplish this, other than the way Bernard spoke about (tracing plywood
sheet and applying it to second assembly).
I hope that what I am asking makes sense, and that someone might be able to shed
some light on the matter.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings and Center Section framed up - Working on Empannage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313210#313210
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/new_piet_007_450x600_260.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
Hi Mark,
Congrats on progressing to the fuselage. For the right fuselage side, what
about just gluing the butt joints? Let those joints dry and then carefully
remove the fuselage from the jig, flip it over on the table, and glue the
gussets on....
Ryan
On Tue, Sep 21, 2010 at 9:54 AM, K5YAC wrote:
>
> I am currently assembling my fuselage sides, but I am uncertain as to the
> best approach. I have constructed a jig directly on my workbench table top,
> which I used to assemble and glue my left fuselage side (gussets on inside
> right). I planned to use the Pietenpol method of tracing that assembly on
> to my 1/8" plywood in order to attach that to the next assembly since I
> obviously can't install the gussets to the side laying on the table. This
> would be my right side assembly (plywood sheet on the right side). While
> this method seems to make good sense to me, I've got a couple of
> questions/observations...
>
> 1. Will having the plywood sheet on the right side make future processes
> more difficult? Reasons that I shouldn't do it this way?
>
> 2. I notice that many builders have a completed skeletal structure with no
> plywood sheet on the outside of the fuse (see Jack's photo below). How did
> you accomplish this? I would like to use the same jig for both halves in
> order to make exact copies for each assembly, but I can't figure out how
> else (or how better), to accomplish this, other than the way Bernard spoke
> about (tracing plywood sheet and applying it to second assembly).
>
> I hope that what I am asking makes sense, and that someone might be able to
> shed some light on the matter.
>
> --------
> Mark Chouinard
> Wings and Center Section framed up - Working on Empannage
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313210#313210
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/new_piet_007_450x600_260.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TOM STINEMETZE" <TOMS(at)mcpcity.com> |
Mike:
If you feel safe, put your mailing address up on this site and I will send
you a self addressed, stamped envelope so you can mail me one. If you
would rather not post your address for all the world to see, maybe you
could send it to me to my e-mail address: toms(at)mcpcity.com.
Thanks,
Tom Stinemetze
McPherson, KS.
>>> Michael Groah 9/20/2010 8:43 PM >>>
I'm not worried about getting paid for the stickers. They cost me almost
nothing to make. For those that I end up having to ship them to, I
wouldn't mind being reimbursed for the shipping costs. That's it.
Mike Groah
Tulare CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Model B Engine Piet Service Ceiling |
| From: | "Clayton Harper" <claytonharper(at)mac.com> |
Any idea what the service ceiling for a Ford B Piet would be? I only asking because
I am interested in an airplane that is for sale near SFO and might want to
fly it back to Houston. I'm retired airline with time to spend, and would rather
fly than drive.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313224#313224
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AMsafetyC(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
Mark for what its worth, and that may be very little, I have chosen to hold
off closing in the sides for fear of losing important access and painting
myself into a corner. Once i get all the goodies in and installed to my
liking I will close in the sides. I think access plays a big part in the
construction process and I see no need to limit that and such a early stage.
Juss how I'm doing it! I like to keep my options open as long as possible,
but then again at my age forget lots of stuff and don't want to be forced
to remove a glued in panel , then be faced with the ugly job of removing it
afterwards.
John
In a message dated 9/21/2010 11:52:09 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rmueller23(at)gmail.com writes:
Hi Mark,
Congrats on progressing to the fuselage. For the right fuselage side, what
about just gluing the butt joints? Let those joints dry and then carefully
remove the fuselage from the jig, flip it over on the table, and glue the
gussets on....
Ryan
On Tue, Sep 21, 2010 at 9:54 AM, K5YAC <_hangar10(at)cox.net_
(mailto:hangar10(at)cox.net) > wrote:
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "K5YAC" <_hangar10(at)cox.net_
(mailto:hangar10(at)cox.net) >
I am currently assembling my fuselage sides, but I am uncertain as to the
best approach. I have constructed a jig directly on my workbench table
top, which I used to assemble and glue my left fuselage side (gussets on
inside right). I planned to use the Pietenpol method of tracing that assembly
on to my 1/8" plywood in order to attach that to the next assembly since I
obviously can't install the gussets to the side laying on the table. This
would be my right side assembly (plywood sheet on the right side). While
this method seems to make good sense to me, I've got a couple of
questions/observations...
1. Will having the plywood sheet on the right side make future processes
more difficult? Reasons that I shouldn't do it this way?
2. I notice that many builders have a completed skeletal structure with no
plywood sheet on the outside of the fuse (see Jack's photo below). How
did you accomplish this? I would like to use the same jig for both halves in
order to make exact copies for each assembly, but I can't figure out how
else (or how better), to accomplish this, other than the way Bernard spoke
about (tracing plywood sheet and applying it to second assembly).
I hope that what I am asking makes sense, and that someone might be able
to shed some light on the matter.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings and Center Section framed up - Working on Empannage
Read this topic online here:
_http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313210#313210_
(http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313210#313210)
Attachments:
_http://forums.matronics.com//files/new_piet_007_450x600_260.jpg_
(http://forums.matronics.com//files/new_piet_007_450x600_260.jpg)
==========
st" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
==========
http://forums.matronics.com
==========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
==========
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
Mark,
I'm able to lay up the ribs with the gussets on the underside of the
ribs - I think you should be able to do the same thing on the fuse
sides. Just put some wax paper where the gussets should go (staple or
tape it down), apply your T-88 to the gussets, lay them about where they
should go, place everything on top of them, and clamp or put your milk
jugs full of water on top of them. You'll have a little time to wiggle
everything into the right place.
Of course, you left the space around the joints free of rigging blocks
to put the gussets under the longerons and cross braces, right?
Dan
On 09/21/2010 09:54 AM, K5YAC wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "K5YAC"
>
> I am currently assembling my fuselage sides, but I am uncertain as to the best
approach. I have constructed a jig directly on my workbench table top, which
I used to assemble and glue my left fuselage side (gussets on inside right).
I planned to use the Pietenpol method of tracing that assembly on to my 1/8"
plywood in order to attach that to the next assembly since I obviously can't
install the gussets to the side laying on the table. This would be my right side
assembly (plywood sheet on the right side). While this method seems to make
good sense to me, I've got a couple of questions/observations...
>
> 1. Will having the plywood sheet on the right side make future processes more
difficult? Reasons that I shouldn't do it this way?
>
> 2. I notice that many builders have a completed skeletal structure with no plywood
sheet on the outside of the fuse (see Jack's photo below). How did you
accomplish this? I would like to use the same jig for both halves in order to
make exact copies for each assembly, but I can't figure out how else (or how
better), to accomplish this, other than the way Bernard spoke about (tracing plywood
sheet and applying it to second assembly).
>
> I hope that what I am asking makes sense, and that someone might be able to shed
some light on the matter.
>
> --------
> Mark Chouinard
> Wings and Center Section framed up - Working on Empannage
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313210#313210
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/new_piet_007_450x600_260.jpg
>
>
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steve Ruse <steve(at)wotelectronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Model B Engine Piet Service Ceiling |
For what its worth, I've had my GN-1 up to 9,500'. It has a
Continental A-75. I'd guess my ceiling would be 11,000 or so with no
mixture adjustment. That is probably my "real" ceiling. I believe
service ceiling is defined as the point where you can still maintain
100fpm climb. In my case, that would probably be closer to 9,500'.
It was still climbing at 9,500', but I wasn't planning on doing that
when I took off (didn't have the proper clothes), and I got cold with
the 28F OAT so I came down. I was about 8,500 AGL and felt like I was
hanging from a string. No perceived motion at all, other than the wind.
Steve Ruse
Norman, OK
Quoting Clayton Harper :
>
>
> Any idea what the service ceiling for a Ford B Piet would be? I only
> asking because I am interested in an airplane that is for sale near
> SFO and might want to fly it back to Houston. I'm retired airline
> with time to spend, and would rather fly than drive.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313224#313224
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
I also did not glue the outside fuselage ply on until the fuselage was
nearly done including landing gear, seats and controls. And yes do remember
to trace the outline of the longerons and cross members onto the outside ply
pieces before joining the sides.
rick
On Tue, Sep 21, 2010 at 10:36 AM, wrote:
> Mark for what its worth, and that may be very little, I have chosen to
> hold off closing in the sides for fear of losing important access and
> painting myself into a corner. Once i get all the goodies in and installed
> to my liking I will close in the sides. I think access plays a big part in
> the construction process and I see no need to limit that and such a early
> stage.
>
> Juss how I'm doing it! I like to keep my options open as long as possible,
> but then again at my age forget lots of stuff and don't want to be forced
> to remove a glued in panel , then be faced with the ugly job of removing it
> afterwards.
>
> John
>
> In a message dated 9/21/2010 11:52:09 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> rmueller23(at)gmail.com writes:
>
> Hi Mark,
>
> Congrats on progressing to the fuselage. For the right fuselage side, what
> about just gluing the butt joints? Let those joints dry and then carefully
> remove the fuselage from the jig, flip it over on the table, and glue the
> gussets on....
>
> Ryan
>
> On Tue, Sep 21, 2010 at 9:54 AM, K5YAC wrote:
>
>>
>> I am currently assembling my fuselage sides, but I am uncertain as to the
>> best approach. I have constructed a jig directly on my workbench table top,
>> which I used to assemble and glue my left fuselage side (gussets on inside
>> right). I planned to use the Pietenpol method of tracing that assembly on
>> to my 1/8" plywood in order to attach that to the next assembly since I
>> obviously can't install the gussets to the side laying on the table. This
>> would be my right side assembly (plywood sheet on the right side). While
>> this method seems to make good sense to me, I've got a couple of
>> questions/observations...
>>
>> 1. Will having the plywood sheet on the right side make future processes
>> more difficult? Reasons that I shouldn't do it this way?
>>
>> 2. I notice that many builders have a completed skeletal structure with no
>> plywood sheet on the outside of the fuse (see Jack's photo below). How did
>> you accomplish this? I would like to use the same jig for both halves in
>> order to make exact copies for each assembly, but I can't figure out how
>> else (or how better), to accomplish this, other than the way Bernard spoke
>> about (tracing plywood sheet and applying it to second assembly).
>>
>> I hope that what I am asking makes sense, and that someone might be able
>> to shed some light on the matter.
>>
>> --------
>> Mark Chouinard
>> Wings and Center Section framed up - Working on Empannage
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313210#313210
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/new_piet_007_450x600_260.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> st" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
> ===================================
> t href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> ====================================ms.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
> tp://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Boyer <boyerjrb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
Mark,
You really do want to leave off the plywood sides until you get all the controls
in and working; especially rudder pedals, firewall items, etc. I put my last
side on too soon and really had to stand on my head for some final stuff.
Jim B.
----- Original Message -----
From: AMsafetyC(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 9:36:18 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fuselage Construction
Mark for what its worth, and that may be very little, I have chosen to hold off
closing in the sides for fear of losing important access and painting myself
into a corner. Once i get all the goodies in and installed to my liking I will
close in the sides. I think access plays a big part in the construction process
and I see no need to limit that and such a early stage.
Juss how I'm doing it! I like to keep my options open as long as possible, but
then again at my age forget lots of stuff and don't want to be forced to remove
a glued in panel , then be faced with the ugly job of removing it afterwards.
John
In a message dated 9/21/2010 11:52:09 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rmueller23(at)gmail.com
writes:
Hi Mark,
Congrats on progressing to the fuselage. For the right fuselage side, what about
just gluing the butt joints? Let those joints dry and then carefully remove
the fuselage from the jig, flip it over on the table, and glue the gussets on....
Ryan
On Tue, Sep 21, 2010 at 9:54 AM, K5YAC < hangar10(at)cox.net > wrote:
I am currently assembling my fuselage sides, but I am uncertain as to the best
approach. I have constructed a jig directly on my workbench table top, which I
used to assemble and glue my left fuselage side (gussets on inside right). I
planned to use the Pietenpol method of tracing that assembly on to my 1/8" plywood
in order to attach that to the next assembly since I obviously can't install
the gussets to the side laying on the table. This would be my right side assembly
(plywood sheet on the right side). While this method seems to make good
sense to me, I've got a couple of questions/observations...
1. Will having the plywood sheet on the right side make future processes more difficult?
Reasons that I shouldn't do it this way?
2. I notice that many builders have a completed skeletal structure with no plywood
sheet on the outside of the fuse (see Jack's photo below). How did you accomplish
this? I would like to use the same jig for both halves in order to make
exact copies for each assembly, but I can't figure out how else (or how better),
to accomplish this, other than the way Bernard spoke about (tracing plywood
sheet and applying it to second assembly).
I hope that what I am asking makes sense, and that someone might be able to shed
some light on the matter.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings and Center Section framed up - Working on Empannage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313210#313210
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/new_piet_007_450x600_260.jpg
===========
st" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
===========
http://forums.matronics.com
===========
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
===========
===================================
t href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List ===================================
ms.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com ===================================
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
Thanks for all the replies... it looks like I'll have to approach this a little
differently. I was concerned about boxing myself in, even if just on the one
side.
yocum137 wrote:
> Of course, you left the space around the joints free of rigging blocks to put
the gussets under the longerons and cross braces, right?
>
> Dan
Yeah, my blocks are placed in a manner that will allow me to work around the joints.
I'll have to think about how to do that so that I can remove it without
damaging the assembly. I know it is possible, I'll just have to take my time.
I don't have much confidence in those end grain joints.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313240#313240
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
Or at least leave off one side.
rh
On Tue, Sep 21, 2010 at 11:11 AM, Jim Boyer wrote:
>
> Mark,
> You really do want to leave off the plywood sides until you get all the
> controls in and working; especially rudder pedals, firewall items, etc. I
> put my last side on too soon and really had to stand on my head for some
> final stuff.
> Jim B.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: AMsafetyC(at)aol.com
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 9:36:18 AM
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fuselage Construction
>
>
> Mark for what its worth, and that may be very little, I have chosen to hold
> off closing in the sides for fear of losing important access and painting
> myself into a corner. Once i get all the goodies in and installed to my
> liking I will close in the sides. I think access plays a big part in the
> construction process and I see no need to limit that and such a early stage.
>
> Juss how I'm doing it! I like to keep my options open as long as possible,
> but then again at my age forget lots of stuff and don't want to be forced
> to remove a glued in panel , then be faced with the ugly job of removing it
> afterwards.
>
> John
>
>
> In a message dated 9/21/2010 11:52:09 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> rmueller23(at)gmail.com writes:
>
> Hi Mark,
>
>
> Congrats on progressing to the fuselage. For the right fuselage side, what
> about just gluing the butt joints? Let those joints dry and then carefully
> remove the fuselage from the jig, flip it over on the table, and glue the
> gussets on....
>
>
> Ryan
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 21, 2010 at 9:54 AM, K5YAC < hangar10(at)cox.net > wrote:
>
>
> I am currently assembling my fuselage sides, but I am uncertain as to the
> best approach. I have constructed a jig directly on my workbench table top,
> which I used to assemble and glue my left fuselage side (gussets on inside
> right). I planned to use the Pietenpol method of tracing that assembly on
> to my 1/8" plywood in order to attach that to the next assembly since I
> obviously can't install the gussets to the side laying on the table. This
> would be my right side assembly (plywood sheet on the right side). While
> this method seems to make good sense to me, I've got a couple of
> questions/observations...
>
> 1. Will having the plywood sheet on the right side make future processes
> more difficult? Reasons that I shouldn't do it this way?
>
> 2. I notice that many builders have a completed skeletal structure with no
> plywood sheet on the outside of the fuse (see Jack's photo below). How did
> you accomplish this? I would like to use the same jig for both halves in
> order to make exact copies for each assembly, but I can't figure out how
> else (or how better), to accomplish this, other than the way Bernard spoke
> about (tracing plywood sheet and applying it to second assembly).
>
> I hope that what I am asking makes sense, and that someone might be able to
> shed some light on the matter.
>
> --------
> Mark Chouinard
> Wings and Center Section framed up - Working on Empannage
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313210#313210
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/new_piet_007_450x600_260.jpg
>
>
> ==========
> st" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> ==========
> http://forums.matronics.com
> ==========
> le, List Admin.
> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
> ===================================
> t href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List===================================
> ms.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com===================================
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
at7000ft wrote:
> Or at least leave off one side.
Oh yeah, I fully planned to leave the left side off. I was only considering the
installation of the right side ply as Bernard described, which would hold my
fuse side together until I could flip it over and install the gussets. I suppose
there are other ways to accomplish this, and I really would like to leave
both sides off if possible in order to allow better access. I'll probably just
glue everything together without gussets and then flip it over... like others
have suggested.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313246#313246
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
On 09/21/2010 01:21 PM, K5YAC wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "K5YAC"
>
> Thanks for all the replies... it looks like I'll have to approach this a little
differently. I was concerned about boxing myself in, even if just on the one
side.
>
>
> yocum137 wrote:
>> Of course, you left the space around the joints free of rigging blocks to put
the gussets under the longerons and cross braces, right?
>>
>> Dan
>
>
> Yeah, my blocks are placed in a manner that will allow me to work around the
joints. I'll have to think about how to do that so that I can remove it without
damaging the assembly. I know it is possible, I'll just have to take my time.
I don't have much confidence in those end grain joints.
>
Nah, you'll have the gussets under the longeron/cross brace joints, just
no side panelling. This will give you the same things as Jack's layout
with gussets on the inside of the structure and the outside left open to
work through.
Let's back up a minute - you want to use the same pattern for both your
left and right sides, right? On one side, you'll be able to put the
gussets right on top of the longeron/cross braces. On the other side,
you'll put the gussets on the bottom, between the longeron/cross-braces
and the jig.
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
yocum137 wrote:
> Let's back up a minute - you want to use the same pattern for both your left
and right sides, right? On one side, you'll be able to put the gussets right
on top of the longeron/cross braces. On the other side,
> you'll put the gussets on the bottom, between the longeron/cross-braces
> and the jig.
>
> Dan
I follow ya Dan... I could lay them under the longerons and braces. I guess I'm
just trying to be consistent in my construction (glue and nail), which would
require me to have the gussets on top when gluing.
It's not an impossible task, I was just looking for some ideas as to how/why many
of you have done it the way that you did. It is hard to evaluate the situation
from my desk at work... I'll look it over tonight and consider some of the
ideas you guys have shared today.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313271#313271
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
| From: | "Bill Church" <billspiet(at)sympatico.ca> |
Mark,
Putting the gussets underneath the spruce isn't hard at all, unless your jig makes
it impossible for some reason.
Attached is a picture from my build (couldn't find a more appropriate shot) that
shows a gusset underneath. As you can see, my jig is simply wood blocks screwed
to the table top (even though you can't see the screws). These wood blocks
allow the spruce sticks to rise the 1/8 inch for the gussets. I positioned all
of the spruce sticks in the jig, then lifted them all about a quarter inch off
the tabletop (with spacer blocks wherever necessary), applied epoxy to the
gussets, and slid them into place under the spruce. Then I lowered all of the
spruce down on top of the gussets.
In addition to the need for access while the fuselage is being built (seats, controls,
etc), there is another reason not to glue one side on before joining the
two fuselage sides. The side panel acts as a huge gusset, and therefore provides
a good deal of strength and stiffness to the fuselage sides. If one side
is glued while laying flat on the table, and the other side is not glued on until
later, there is a very high likelihood that the paneled side will flex less
than the non-paneled side, when you join the two fuselage sides. If this happens,
your fuselage will be out of symmetry, which would not be a good thing.
So, the recommended practice would be either to glue both sides on while in the
flat, or glue both sides on after the fuselage sides have been joined (curved).
That way the stresses will be equal in both sides. From a practical viewpoint
(for ease of access while building), the better of the two is to glue the
sides on later.
Bill C.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313272#313272
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/gussets_166.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Glide Performance with Regular Wing |
| From: | "j_dunavin" <j_dunavin(at)hotmail.com> |
Sounds great to me.
I think with our corvair motor that we will have plenty of power and may not benefit
as much from the riblet design as someone with lower HP.
Regardless we are doing the ribs later since we can't make up our minds. [Rolling
Eyes]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313276#313276
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Model B Engine Piet Service Ceiling |
| From: | "Pieti Lowell" <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com> |
I have had my Ford B to 10,000 AGL and had no problem.
Jack McKinney flew his Ford A from AZ with only a H2O Pump Problem, He drilled
a vent in the bearing hsg and took off for Brodhead without a problem.
Pieti Lowell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313279#313279
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
> If one side is glued while laying flat on the table, and the other side is
not glued on until later, >there is a very high likelihood that the paneled
side will flex less than the non-paneled side, >when you join the two
fuselage sides. If this happens, your fuselage will be out of symmetry,
>which would not be a good thing.
Good point Bill, which is why I left both sides off.
rick
On Tue, Sep 21, 2010 at 3:59 PM, Bill Church wrote:
> billspiet>(at)sympatico.ca >
>
> Mark,
> Putting the gussets underneath the spruce isn't hard at all, unless your
> jig makes it impossible for some reason.
> Attached is a picture from my build (couldn't find a more appropriate shot)
> that shows a gusset underneath. As you can see, my jig is simply wood blocks
> screwed to the table top (even though you can't see the screws). These wood
> blocks allow the spruce sticks to rise the 1/8 inch for the gussets. I
> positioned all of the spruce sticks in the jig, then lifted them all about a
> quarter inch off the tabletop (with spacer blocks wherever necessary),
> applied epoxy to the gussets, and slid them into place under the spruce.
> Then I lowered all of the spruce down on top of the gussets.
> In addition to the need for access while the fuselage is being built
> (seats, controls, etc), there is another reason not to glue one side on
> before joining the two fuselage sides. The side panel acts as a huge gusset,
> and therefore provides a good deal of strength and stiffness to the fuselage
> sides. If one side is glued while laying flat on the table, and the other
> side is not glued on until later, there is a very high likelihood that the
> paneled side will flex less than the non-paneled side, when you join the two
> fuselage sides. If this happens, your fuselage will be out of symmetry,
> which would not be a good thing. So, the recommended practice would be
> either to glue both sides on while in the flat, or glue both sides on after
> the fuselage sides have been joined (curved). That way the stresses will be
> equal in both sides. From a practical viewpoint (for ease of access while
> building), the better of the two is to glue the sides on later.
>
> Bill C.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313272#313272
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/gussets_166.jpg
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
On 09/21/2010 04:36 PM, K5YAC wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "K5YAC"
>
>
> yocum137 wrote:
>> Let's back up a minute - you want to use the same pattern for both your left
and right sides, right? On one side, you'll be able to put the gussets right
on top of the longeron/cross braces. On the other side,
>> you'll put the gussets on the bottom, between the longeron/cross-braces
>> and the jig.
>>
>> Dan
>
>
> I follow ya Dan... I could lay them under the longerons and braces. I guess
I'm just trying to be consistent in my construction (glue and nail), which would
require me to have the gussets on top when gluing.
>
Ah, gotcha. But, you know, nails are over rated. I suppose you could
add them after the fact on that one side...
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
Mark,
I did as Ryan M. suggested, and let the glue set hard, flipped the frame
over and installed gussets. There was no indication that the butt joints
were stressed to the breaking point. I left off the sides 'till the very
end, even after control stick and rudder pedals and brakes were installed.
Incidentally, I also followed Jim Boyer's advice; made my 1/8" firewall
plywood, clamped it in place, drilled 'locating dowels' that stuck out about
3", and left the firewall off until just before making the metal firewall
and installing the engine mount...should be pics on westcoastpiet. That
gives you forward access even after the sides are glued on. I must have
removed that firewall plywood at least 500 times...maybe 1,000!!
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(20 ribs down.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Yocum
Sent: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 5:25 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Fuselage Construction
On 09/21/2010 04:36 PM, K5YAC wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "K5YAC"
>
>
> yocum137 wrote:
>> Let's back up a minute - you want to use the same pattern for both your
left and right sides, right? On one side, you'll be able to put the gussets
right on top of the longeron/cross braces. On the other side,
>> you'll put the gussets on the bottom, between the longeron/cross-braces
>> and the jig.
>>
>> Dan
>
>
> I follow ya Dan... I could lay them under the longerons and braces. I
guess I'm just trying to be consistent in my construction (glue and nail),
which would require me to have the gussets on top when gluing.
>
Ah, gotcha. But, you know, nails are over rated. I suppose you could
add them after the fact on that one side...
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
gboothe5(at)comcast.net wrote:
> Mark,
>
> I did as Ryan M. suggested, and let the glue set hard, flipped the frame
> over and installed gussets. There was no indication that the butt joints
> were stressed to the breaking point. I left off the sides 'till the very
> end, even after control stick and rudder pedals and brakes were installed.
>
>
> Gary Boothe
>
It's done.
I went to the hangar tonight and glued all the supports in place without gussets
or ply. I will wait a day or two and flip it over to install the inside gussets
only. This is originally what I hoped to do, but I was looking for some
confirmation from others that it was indeed possible when using thesame jig for
both sides... I got that and then some. I think the Pietenpol method would
have worked well by providing the necessary framework to hold things together,
but I was unsure about closing in the right side and I do see your point Bill
about the uneven bending force.
Oh well, problem solved... now I just hope to get the gussets installed without
any separation or damage. Dan... I will be using glue AND nails for that operation.
LOL!
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313318#313318
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
Hi Mark,
I would think you don't need to be too paranoid about damaging the fuse side
when removing it from the jig. Granted, the butt joints have relatively
little strength, but they should be plenty strong for just lifting it,
flipping it over, and setting it back down again. I would think that as long
as you take the time to work your way around the jig to make sure each joint
is free from the table (like working your way around the pizza before
sliding it off the pan), you should be ok. Work carefully, and good luck
(not that you need it!).
Have a good night,
Ryan
On Tue, Sep 21, 2010 at 9:53 PM, K5YAC wrote:
>
>
> gboothe5(at)comcast.net wrote:
> > Mark,
> >
> > I did as Ryan M. suggested, and let the glue set hard, flipped the frame
> > over and installed gussets. There was no indication that the butt joints
> > were stressed to the breaking point. I left off the sides 'till the very
> > end, even after control stick and rudder pedals and brakes were
> installed.
> >
> >
> > Gary Boothe
> >
>
>
> It's done.
>
> I went to the hangar tonight and glued all the supports in place without
> gussets or ply. I will wait a day or two and flip it over to install the
> inside gussets only. This is originally what I hoped to do, but I was
> looking for some confirmation from others that it was indeed possible when
> using thesame jig for both sides... I got that and then some. I think the
> Pietenpol method would have worked well by providing the necessary framework
> to hold things together, but I was unsure about closing in the right side
> and I do see your point Bill about the uneven bending force.
>
> Oh well, problem solved... now I just hope to get the gussets installed
> without any separation or damage. Dan... I will be using glue AND nails for
> that operation. LOL!
>
> --------
> Mark Chouinard
> Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313318#313318
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
Why don't you just go ahead and put those gussets on top
of the joints.
Then clamp another set onto those and glue all your
longerons and crossmembers to those. This will give
you two identical sides with no muss or fuss. :-)
Clif
"The man who has no imagination has no wings." ~ Muhammad Ali
>
> gboothe5(at)comcast.net wrote:
>> Mark,
>>
>> I did as Ryan M. suggested, and let the glue set hard, flipped the frame
>> over and installed gussets. >>
>> Gary Boothe
> It's done.
> I went to the hangar tonight and glued all the supports in place without
gussets or ply. I will wait a day or two and flip it over to install the
inside gussets only. > --------
> Mark Chouinard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jorge lizarraga <flightwood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: metal size for tail fittings |
hello there in my case I used the same size you tell us and match bery well
whit plans for horns and plates is bery stronger I hope help you nex senyo
u pictured tanks jorge from hanford
--- On Mon, 9/20/10, echobravo4 wrote:
From: echobravo4 <eab4(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: metal size for tail fittings
Date: Monday, September 20, 2010, 10:19 AM
i've been going through the archives and just want to double check-
Is .080 good for the tail fittings or should i use .090?
Also, is .032 good for the tail control horns?
I have all the wood for the tail on the way and am ready to call Dillsurg
to order the metal for the fittings.
Thanks for any help-
Earl
--------
Earl Brown
I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up whe
re I intended to be.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313067#313067
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jorge lizarraga <flightwood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6 Weeks into Piet |
if your are looky guy $$$$$$$$, formy tokmy 10 years and still stok in fuse
soner or later the ribs coming these november,seyou jorge from hanford
--- On Mon, 9/20/10, Mark M wrote:
From: Mark M <mmcfi(at)juno.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: 6 Weeks into Piet
Date: Monday, September 20, 2010, 3:30 PM
I call =9CBS!!=9D Everyone knows it takes 2 years and 6 mos jus
t to build 20 ribs=C2-
=C2- =C2-=C2-=C2-
Gary Boothe
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2-
=C2- I think that if you take into account his statement that=C2- he ha
s wanted to do this for 30 years that his time line will work out just abou
t right....
Mark
Now according to this line of thinking i only have 18 years 4 months and 13
days to go... :D=C2- :)=C2- =C2- :(=C2- [Crying or Very sad]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313118#313118
t
S WEB FORUMS -
on Web Site -
=C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- =C2- -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
Ha! Now there's an idea I haven't seen. Problem is, my left half has already
been completed... I was simply trying to figure the best (or at least a good)
approach to building the right half in the same jig. Not a problem now... everything
is in the works. Glue should be dry tomorrow evening, so I'll press on
from there.
CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca wrote:
> Why don't you just go ahead and put those gussets on top
> of the joints.
> Then clamp another set onto those and glue all your
> longerons and crossmembers to those. This will give
> you two identical sides with no muss or fuss. :-)
>
> Clif
>
> "The man who has no imagination has no wings." ~ Muhammad Ali
>
> >
> > gboothe5(at)comcast.net wrote:
> > > Mark,
> > >
> > > I did as Ryan M. suggested, and let the glue set hard, flipped the frame
> > > over and installed gussets. >>
> > > Gary Boothe
> >
> >
>
>
> > It's done.
> > > I went to the hangar tonight and glued all the supports in place without
> >
>
> gussets or ply. I will wait a day or two and flip it over to install the
> inside gussets only. > --------
>
> > Mark Chouinard
> >
> >
>
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313333#313333
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jorge lizarraga <flightwood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 6 Weeks into Piet |
I agree oscar,
--- On Tue, 9/21/10, Oscar Zuniga wrote:
From: Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: 6 Weeks into Piet
Date: Tuesday, September 21, 2010, 5:44 AM
Harvey wrote-
>if you have enough people working on it and they all know
>what they are doing (not like me) then I think you should
>be able to crank out a Piet just about everyother day
1. Everyone who works on Piets knows what they are doing.
2. If you have more than one person working on a Piet at a
time, nothing will ever get done because they will never
agree on how to make a part, rig the airplane, lay out the
instrument panel, what type of engine is best, what paint
scheme to use, what size prop to use, what type of hardware
to use, or anything else.- And they will each think they
know how Mr. Pietenpol did it or would have done it if he
were still alive today, or how the FAA books say it
should properly be done, or how Bingelis says it should be
done, or how they saw it done in a magazine article, or
how they think they can improve on 1929 technology, and
they will argue their point unflinchingly and indefinitely.
3. If you have MORE than two people working on a Piet, just
call it a beer and BS session and don't anybody touch any
part that might eventually fly, because it will be wrong,
it will be unairworthy, and Mr. Pietenpol would be
embarrassed if he ever saw it.- Have fun and talk about
Piets, but don't expect to actually get anything done.
Now if you want to really make progress and build an actual
airplane, lock the door to your shop, unroll the plans, and
start building.- That's what Corky did with 41CC, and I'm
flying the proof of it.
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net --- --------
------ --- -
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jorge lizarraga <flightwood(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pedal Piet plans |
is bery cheap sales from oscar and allso you can trate from EAA.org/shoping
is about 7 diferent planes.
--- On Mon, 9/20/10, Chet Hartley wrote:
From: Chet Hartley <chethartley1(at)mchsi.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Pedal Piet plans
Date: Monday, September 20, 2010, 8:05 AM
I would like to have them.
Chethartley1(at)mchsi.com
573-645-0534
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 20, 2010, at 8:26 AM, Oscar Zuniga wrote:
>
>
>
> I have a new and unused set of plans for the
> "Pedal Piet" for young children:
>
> http://www.pedalplanekits.com/piet.html
>
> These plans cost about $25 from Aviation Products.
> If you're interested in these plans, email me
> off-list.- If you start building today, you could
> have a Christmas present for your favorite young
> Piet pilot.- $15 to the first responder.- Thanks!
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Air Camper NX41CC
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net- - - - - - - - -
- - ---
>
>
>
>
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dortch, Steven D MAJ NG NG NGB" <steven.d.dortch(at)us.army.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: Model B Engine Piet Service Ceiling |
I believe You can fly from coast to coast and not get over 6,000 ft . MSL. One
route is north and the other is through the El Paso area.
Blue Skies,
STeve D
On 09/21/10, Clayton Harper wrote:
>
> Any idea what the service ceiling for a Ford B Piet would be? I only asking because
I am interested in an airplane that is for sale near SFO and might want
to fly it back to Houston. I'm retired airline with time to spend, and would
rather fly than drive.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313224#313224
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Continental Overhaul manual |
| From: | "tkreiner" <tkreiner(at)gmail.com> |
Brian,
Please post your email address.
Thanks,
--------
Tom Kreiner
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313355#313355
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Fuselage Construction |
>If one side is glued while laying flat on the table,
>and the other side is not glued on until later,
>there is a very high likelihood that the paneled side
>will flex less than the non-paneled side when you join
>the two fuselage sides. If this happens, your fuselage
>will be out of symmetry, which would not be a good thing.
OK, just talking theoretically here (since the topic has
been flogged to death already), aren't the fuselage sides
parallel from the firewall to the back of the pilot's seat,
where the plywood ends and it's just open framing from
there aft? If so, then the plywood-sheeted parts aren't
being asked to bend or flex, only open-framed sections.
In that case, it shouldn't make any difference.
The above does NOT apply to GN-1s or "Navratil-style"
fully-sheeted fuselages, of course.
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | norm <coevst(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
Oscar is correct in in his theory, been there done that!
--- On Wed, 9/22/10, Oscar Zuniga wrote:
From: Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuselage Construction
Date: Wednesday, September 22, 2010, 8:50 AM
>If one side is glued while laying flat on the table,
>and the other side is not glued on until later,
>there is a very high likelihood that the paneled side
>will flex less than the non-paneled side when you join
>the two fuselage sides. If this happens, your fuselage
>will be out of symmetry, which would not be a good thing.
OK, just talking theoretically here (since the topic has
been flogged to death already), aren't the fuselage sides
parallel from the firewall to the back of the pilot's seat,
where the plywood ends and it's just open framing from
there aft?- If so, then the plywood-sheeted parts aren't
being asked to bend or flex, only open-framed sections.
In that case, it shouldn't make any difference.
The above does NOT apply to GN-1s or "Navratil-style"
fully-sheeted fuselages, of course.
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net --- --------
------ --- -
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
| From: | "Bill Church" <billspiet(at)sympatico.ca> |
Well, technically the fuselage sides are parallel from the firewall to the back
of the passenger's seat, and begin tapering from there, which leaves about 29
inches rear of the passenger seat of plywood paneled fuselage side that needs
to flex. Now, the fuselage is only 2 inches narrower by the back of the pilot's
seat, so not a great deal of flexing, but still possibly significant.
Just seems like logic to me to build both sides using the same technique, and eliminate
the possibility of unevenness.
Bill C.
Quote:
If one side is glued while laying flat on the table,
and the other side is not glued on until later,
there is a very high likelihood that the paneled side
will flex less than the non-paneled side when you join
the two fuselage sides. If this happens, your fuselage
will be out of symmetry, which would not be a good thing.
OK, just talking theoretically here (since the topic has
been flogged to death already), aren't the fuselage sides
parallel from the firewall to the back of the pilot's seat,
where the plywood ends and it's just open framing from
there aft? If so, then the plywood-sheeted parts aren't
being asked to bend or flex, only open-framed sections.
In that case, it shouldn't make any difference.
The above does NOT apply to GN-1s or "Navratil-style"
fully-sheeted fuselages, of course.
Oscar Zuniga
[/quote]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313371#313371
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuse_sides_842.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Boyer <boyerjrb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
Hi Oscar,
My Piet sides do curve from about the rear of the front cockpit so the sides with
plywood have to be able to be curved the same amount.
Jim B.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 5:50:42 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuselage Construction
>If one side is glued while laying flat on the table,
>and the other side is not glued on until later,
>there is a very high likelihood that the paneled side
>will flex less than the non-paneled side when you join
>the two fuselage sides. If this happens, your fuselage
>will be out of symmetry, which would not be a good thing.
OK, just talking theoretically here (since the topic has
been flogged to death already), aren't the fuselage sides
parallel from the firewall to the back of the pilot's seat,
where the plywood ends and it's just open framing from
there aft? If so, then the plywood-sheeted parts aren't
being asked to bend or flex, only open-framed sections.
In that case, it shouldn't make any difference.
The above does NOT apply to GN-1s or "Navratil-style"
fully-sheeted fuselages, of course.
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Weather for Wood Fabric And Tailwheels |
Looks like friday is going to be a fairly windy day.- Forcast is saying 1
5-20mph winds out of the SW, almost a direct headwind.- That should add a
bout 2 hrs to my trip down to Lee Bottoms fly-in, counting an extra fuel st
op or two.- Mike C., are you still planning on flying down on friday?-
Saturday looks a little better, unfortunatly I have to head home by 2pm or
so to get back for work on sunday.-
-
Hope to see some of you down there,
Shad
-=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
| From: | Michael Conkling <jmconkling(at)gmail.com> |
Hey folks!
At long last I'm at this point, too -- my jig is on a barn loft floor, so I
can lay out both sides at once -- the upper longerons side-by-side (top
surfaces together?) down the center -- insides facing up (i.e. R.H. side on
the left side of the jig & L.H. side on the right) -- all the inside gussets
will be on the upper surfaces of both trusses (this is the same trick I've
used to build stick-n-tissue models, another place where you don't want a
"banana" shaped fuselage! ;-)
Besides the usual squeeze bottles of T-88, there is now a cartridge of T-88
that fits a regular caulking gun -- there is a "mixing" tip and a straight
dispensing double tip -- might be a good thing to use for getting all the
fuseledge pieces / parts glued in one session.
Now back to "lurk mode" so I can get some work done!
Mike (another) C.
Pretty Prairie, KS
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage Construction |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
Still beating the dog squeeze out of this topic I see. LOL!
I pulled my right fuse side out of the jig and glued all the gussets on tonight.
All went well... both the left and right sides look good. Mike, that T-88
dispenser would have been a good idea. I mixed and brushed on four 15g batches
to get all the gussets glued. Oh well, on to the next challenge.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313453#313453
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Schreiber" <lmforge(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Weather for Wood Fabric And Tailwheels |
Shad:
I'll be at Lee Bottom Friday through Sunday morning. I'll be leaving NW Indiana
after lunch on Friday, flying down in my red and white Tripacer.
Rick Schreiber
Valparaiso, IN
----- Original Message -----
From: shad bell
Sent: 9/22/2010 5:12:40 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Weather for Wood Fabric And Tailwheels
Looks like friday is going to be a fairly windy day. Forcast is saying 15-20mph
winds out of the SW, almost a direct headwind. That should add about 2 hrs
to my trip down to Lee Bottoms fly-in, counting an extra fuel stop or two. Mike
C., are you still planning on flying down on friday? Saturday looks a little
better, unfortunatly I have to head home by 2pm or so to get back for work
on sunday.
Hope to see some of you down there,
Shad
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Landing Gear Brackets |
| From: | "chase143(at)aol.com" <chase143(at)aol.com> |
A picture of my LG lower brackets, I think they came out pretty good. I decided
to rivet them after seeing Genes good work up close and personal. They are tremendously
strong and riveted easily. Thanks again Gene!
--------
Steve
www.mypiet.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313494#313494
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/brackets_riveted_159.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Brackets |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
Very nice work! What are the advantages of using rivets over nuts and bolts?
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313496#313496
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Brackets |
I used nuts and bolts...the rivets are much cleaner looking!
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(20 ribs down.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Billy
McCaskill
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 9:50 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Landing Gear Brackets
Very nice work! What are the advantages of using rivets over nuts and
bolts?
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313496#313496
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Brackets |
| From: | "chase143(at)aol.com" <chase143(at)aol.com> |
Just my $.02: I think they looked more traditional, as called out in the plans,
very strong, and they have a smaller profile with smoother edges to prevent cutting
into the bungees. I had the equipment in the shop, just add $5 in rivets.
And lastly, they are fun to make, I love to wake the neighbors at midnight
with the sound of rivetting!
Steve
--------
Steve
www.mypiet.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313510#313510
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Brackets |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Steve,
Those things are beautiful!!! Wow a real work of art. Mine are not that go
od. Keep up this type of work and you will be amoung the "cream" at Brodhe
ad!!
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: chase143(at)aol.com <chase143(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thu, Sep 23, 2010 11:29 am
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Landing Gear Brackets
com>
A picture of my LG lower brackets, I think they came out pretty good. I de
cided
o rivet them after seeing Gene=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2s good work up close
and personal. They are
remendously strong and riveted easily. Thanks again Gene!
--------
teve
ww.mypiet.com
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313494#313494
ttachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/brackets_riveted_159.jpg
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack" <jack(at)textors.com> |
| Subject: | Landing Gear Brackets |
Looks great Steve! I have to comment publicly on your work and website, both are fantastic! Pieters check it out www.mypiet.com a fantastic resource!
Jack
www.textors.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of chase143(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 11:29 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Landing Gear Brackets
A picture of my LG lower brackets, I think they came out pretty good. I decided
to rivet them after seeing Genes good work up close and personal. They are tremendously
strong and riveted easily. Thanks again Gene!
--------
Steve
www.mypiet.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313494#313494
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/brackets_riveted_159.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Landing Gear Brackets |
Looking good, Steve. So you've seen Gene's gorgeous project recently, huh?
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
chase143(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 12:29 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Landing Gear Brackets
A picture of my LG lower brackets, I think they came out pretty good. I
decided to rivet them after seeing Gene?Ts good work up close and personal.
They are tremendously strong and riveted easily. Thanks again Gene!
--------
Steve
www.mypiet.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313494#313494
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/brackets_riveted_159.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Brackets |
| From: | "chase143(at)aol.com" <chase143(at)aol.com> |
Jack T. you are too kind, just following your website lead!
Jack P. ~ Yes, I visited Gene before Brodhead and his is beautiful. My Piet pales
in comparison. I liked his rivet work so much I shamelessly copied it (best
form of flattery ey!?). His must be ready to cover by now. Gene? Pictures?
--------
Steve
www.mypiet.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313529#313529
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Brackets |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
Steve, that is beautiful work. I would copy you copying Gene if I were doing that
type of gear.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313534#313534
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Wing covering question |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
When you guys covered your wings did you glue the top fabric to the entire
leading edge ply or just a couple inches on the front of the leading edge?
thanks
rick
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "GliderMike" <glidermikeg(at)yahoo.com> |
Is the person who recently acquired their Piet plans and lives in the Baton Rouge
area on this list yet? If everything goes as planned I will be working for
Atlantic Southeast at their Baton Rouge maintenance facility sometime soon, probably
late October, or early November. I bought plans in April or May, but
haven't started anything yet.
--------
HOMEBUILDER
Will WORK for Spruce
Long flights, smooth air, and soft landings,
GliderMike, aka Mike Glasgow
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313538#313538
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Weather for Wood Fabric And Tailwheels |
Rich, I don't know why, but most of my post on the list keep ending up in m
y spam, not sure if they are getting viruses attatched at my end or what.
- Mike Cuy was planning on flying down last I heard, but I am not sure.
- I had my other 2 wingman bail on me so I will be going it alone.- Due
to the forecast, I am gonna plan on leaving at 1st light, try to get there
before the winds get really bad.
-
Shad=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Schreiber" <lmforge(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Weather for Wood Fabric And Tailwheels |
Shad,
Most of the guys I knew that were going have bailed for various reasons. Last I
heard I still have one friend who is flying up from Tennessee in his Grumman
Widgeon and another coming in from Michigan in his Pacer.
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: shad bell
Sent: 9/23/2010 8:10:18 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Weather for Wood Fabric And Tailwheels
Rich, I don't know why, but most of my post on the list keep ending up in my spam,
not sure if they are getting viruses attatched at my end or what. Mike Cuy
was planning on flying down last I heard, but I am not sure. I had my other
2 wingman bail on me so I will be going it alone. Due to the forecast, I am
gonna plan on leaving at 1st light, try to get there before the winds get really
bad.
Shad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
Hi Mike,
That's probably me that you are referring to, although I have had my plans since
1995. My residence is about 4 mi north of BTR, although I travel back and forth
between Baton Rouge and Urbana, IL quite frequently. My wife and I have
a house in Urbana, at least until she graduates nursing school in December and
we get the house there sold. My Piet project is in Urbana for now, although
I only have my tail section built. I started building it just a year or so ago.
Let me know once you are moved down and settled in and we'll get together and talk
airplane stuff.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313550#313550
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
Hi Mike,
That's probably me that you are referring to, although I have had my plans since
1995. My residence is about 4 mi north of BTR, although I travel back and forth
between Baton Rouge and Urbana, IL quite frequently. My wife and I have
a house in Urbana, at least until she graduates nursing school in December and
we get the house there sold. My Piet project is in Urbana for now, although
I only have my tail section built. I started building it just a year or so ago.
Let me know once you are moved down and settled in and we'll get together and talk
airplane stuff.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313549#313549
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Brackets |
As I have never done any riveting...what tools are required? Can this type of riveting
be done by hand, or are machines needed? (of some sort) Are the rivets
steel? I think your brackets look great and with the comment about the bungees
being a little better protected, I am very interested.
Thanks.
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "VanDy" <matthew.vandervort(at)gmail.com> |
So i did a couple of searches on here and found what looked like people are using
both 3/32 and 1/8 stainless steel cables, so my question in what is the common
that most are using?
Thanks in advance@@
--------
www.vansavition.com follow my Piet rebuild there!
almost dissasembled, getting ready to order all AN hardware and SS cable
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313554#313554
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BYD" <billsayre(at)ymail.com> |
If I recall correctly, the prints show all cables as 3/32 with the exception of
the cables connecting the stick and the elevator bellcrank which are 1/8. I
don't remember what the "Jenny style gear" prints call out. Some decide to utilize
larger in some areas. If I missed a spot, I'm sure someone will point it
out [Wink]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313557#313557
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal(at)comcast.net> |
NX18235 has 1/8" 1X19 stainless steel on drag and anti-drag, lift strut
bracing and landing gear bracing cables. 3/32" 7X19 stainless steel on
cabane and empennage bracing. 3/32" 7X19 galvanized all control cables.
Using 1/8" cable on the cabane bracing would be a good idea because these
cables take a real beating when taxiing over rough ground.
Greg Cardinal
----- Original Message -----
From: "VanDy" <matthew.vandervort(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 23, 2010 11:55 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cables
>
>
> So i did a couple of searches on here and found what looked like people
> are using both 3/32 and 1/8 stainless steel cables, so my question in what
> is the common that most are using?
> Thanks in advance@@
>
> --------
> www.vansavition.com follow my Piet rebuild there!
>
> almost dissasembled, getting ready to order all AN hardware and SS cable
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313554#313554
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Weather for Wood Fabric And Tailwheels |
Rich, If you, or someone with you-make it down to Lee Bottoms today (frid
ay), and you need dinner use my ticket.- I pre paid for 1 dinner, and pai
d the $5 fee for 1 reservation (2 total reservations).- Pick up the ticke
ts at the pilot registration tent.- I won't make it today, called for wea
ther and it's way to windy.-- Winds aloft, 46kts direct headwind for me
, I would end up in cleveland instead of cincinnati at that rate.- I migh
t try tommorow to get there, I have to check with work to get sunday off.
-
Tickets are under the name Shad Bell
-
Shad=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Brackets |
| From: | "chase143(at)aol.com" <chase143(at)aol.com> |
Hello Michael,
It takes an air compressor, rivet gun, and bucking bar. If you don't have them,
I would find a friend who does and do it there, it takes 10 mins. Would not recommend
doing by hand.
Rivets are steel, $5.45 1/lb (about 100 rivets), and I think I used 26 (very inexpensive).
I got 1 1/2" and 1 1/4".
R.J. Leahy (http://www.rjleahy.com/Store/rivets/trvr.htm) is a small, very friendly company in CA. The 1 1/4" rivets were on back order, when they came in, they apologized and shipped without charging me. They have my business for life.....
Steve
--------
Steve
www.mypiet.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313577#313577
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Rambo <generambo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Brackets |
The rivets=2C per the plans=2C are all steel. There are several places onl
ine to order steel rivets=2C very cheap. I think a box of 50 rivets cost m
e 5.00. If you use the large=2C round-headed rivets which look better and
are more original=2C you have to buy a special rivet head for it=2C from sa
me place as rivets=2C cost about $15. They drive very easily=2C but I alwa
us use a 4X gun which has a large=2C heavy hammer and can go fairly slow.
The light=2C fast "skin guns" that sound like one of those electric gatling
cannons might not do too well on steel rivets.
Gene
> Date: Thu=2C 23 Sep 2010 20:25:29 -0700
> From: speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Landing Gear Brackets
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>
.net>
>
> As I have never done any riveting...what tools are required? Can this typ
e of riveting be done by hand=2C or are machines needed? (of some sort) Are
the rivets steel? I think your brackets look great and with the comment ab
out the bungees being a little better protected=2C I am very interested.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Michael Perez
> Karetaker Aero
> www.karetakeraero.com
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Markle <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Brackets |
This is great info! Thanks Steve.
The R.J. Leahy linke below also has 22ga wire. That's what's used in the recent
Sport Aviation article on wire wrapping...
jm
-----Original Message-----
>From: "chase143(at)aol.com" <chase143(at)aol.com>
>Sent: Sep 24, 2010 7:49 AM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Landing Gear Brackets
>
>
>Hello Michael,
>It takes an air compressor, rivet gun, and bucking bar. If you don't have them,
I would find a friend who does and do it there, it takes 10 mins. Would not
recommend doing by hand.
>
>Rivets are steel, $5.45 1/lb (about 100 rivets), and I think I used 26 (very inexpensive).
I got 1 1/2" and 1 1/4".
>
>R.J. Leahy (http://www.rjleahy.com/Store/rivets/trvr.htm) is a small, very friendly company in CA. The 1 1/4" rivets were on back order, when they came in, they apologized and shipped without charging me. They have my business for life.....
>
>Steve
>
>--------
>Steve
>www.mypiet.com
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313577#313577
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Weather for Wood Fabric And Tailwheels |
| From: | "bender" <jfaith(at)solairusaviation.com> |
Looks like i'll be there for the last ride in my cessna 120.. I sold it and will
deliver it tomorrow afternoon, but not until i make that last trip to lee bottom.
Looking forward to inspecting a piet or two and building starts really soon.
Jeff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313583#313583
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Brackets |
Sounds like the first thing I need to do is get familiar with the tools/equ
ipment needed.
Michael Perez
=0AKaretaker Aero
=0Awww.karetakeraero.com
--- On Fri, 9/24/10, Gene Rambo wrote:
From: Gene Rambo <generambo(at)msn.com>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Landing Gear Brackets
Date: Friday, September 24, 2010, 8:49 AM
=0A=0A=0AThe rivets, per the plans, are all steel.- There are several pla
ces online to order steel rivets, very cheap.- I think a box of 50 rivets
cost me 5.00.- If you use the large, round-headed rivets which look bett
er and are more original, you have to buy a special rivet head for it, from
same place as rivets, cost about $15.- They drive very easily, but I alw
aus use a 4X gun which has a large, heavy hammer and can go fairly slow.-
-The light, fast "skin guns" that sound like-one of those electric gatl
ing cannons might not do too well on steel rivets.
=0A-
=0AGene
-
=0A> Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 20:25:29 -0700
> From: speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Landing Gear Brackets
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>
.net>
>
> As I have never done any riveting...what tools are required? Can this typ
e of riveting be done by hand, or are machines needed? (of some sort) Are t
he rivets steel? I think your brackets look great and with the comment abou
t the bungees being a little better protected, I am very interested.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Michael Perez
> Karetaker Aero
> www.karetakeraero.com ==============
>
>
>
======================0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Brackets |
Thanks for the answers men. I have a pretty good idea now of what I must learn
and I feel that riveting is the way I will proceed.
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
Should use galvanized cable on any control cable that has to flex around a
pully. Am using stainless on the cabane (3/32") and wing strut cross brace
cables (1/8").
rick
On Thu, Sep 23, 2010 at 10:55 PM, VanDy wrote:
> matthew.vandervort(at)gmail.com>
>
> So i did a couple of searches on here and found what looked like people are
> using both 3/32 and 1/8 stainless steel cables, so my question in what is
> the common that most are using?
> Thanks in advance@@
>
> --------
> www.vansavition.com follow my Piet rebuild there!
>
> almost dissasembled, getting ready to order all AN hardware and SS cable
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313554#313554
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lycoming 65 Hp ad |
FYI for the group, this was listed on our local online classifieds.
www.ksl.com
Go to classifieds, then to recreational vehicles, then to airplanes and
scroll down the list and you can see the ad and pics.
$800.00
Lycoming 65 HP Motor (disassembled)
RIGBY, ID 83442
Hard to find Lycoming 65 HP Motor. Motor is disassembled. Has good
crank, etc. Motor was a spare motor for my BL 65 Taylorcraft. Sold
aircraft.
Dennis 208-745-0109
Brian
SLC-UT
Cont 0-200
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bill Church" <billspiet(at)sympatico.ca> |
Actually, I believe that provided you use actual AIRCRAFT cable (as opposed to
commercial cable), both galvanized and stainless will have the necessary lubrication
to provide better fatigue life required when flexing around pulleys. Without
that lubrication, the cables will be much more likely to fail where they
are repeatedly flexed and unflexed.
Here's a link to Aircraft Spruce's webpage for aircraft cable:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/controlcable.php
As you can see, the stainless cable costs about twice as much as galvanized. The
important thing to note here is that both types of cables are true AIRCRAFT
cable, which have specific and rigorous specifications that must be met. Commercial
cable, which does not have the same rigorous standards, for some reason,
is often called "aircraft cable". I would not use commercial cable in my plane.
All of the cables are there for a specific task (either holding the plane together
or allowing the pilot to control the plane), and should not be an area
where the builder should be looking to save a few bucks. "Should be good enough"
is NOT an appropriate attitude when choosing cables. If purchasing cables
from a non-aviation source, make sure you know what you are buying (like Gene
did).
As for preference between galvanized and stainless, that is up to the individual.
For exposed cables, stainless sure looks nicer - especially after a few years,
although some would argue that galvanized will look more authentic. I believe
Jack Phillips used stainless steel AIRCRAFT cable throughout his award winning
Piet, and it looks really nice (and authentic).
Bill C.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313624#313624
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Ash <ashcan(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming 65 Hp ad |
I had one of these (Lycoming O145-B2) in my Cub, which is why my Cub now has a
C-90 in it. I paid dearly to fix the mistake of not knowing what I was doing when
I bought the Cub and it was almost all because of that @#$%^& motor. I poured
a lot of money into nursing that engine along before it blew a head gasket,
maybe 10 hours into having it rebuilt, and I gave up on it. Then lots more money
to get the C-90 and have it mounted up and signed off (more costly mistakes
in choosing an A&P to do the job).
The cylinders are cast as part of the case. You don't just replace a jug when one
goes poof. According to my A&P at the time, my cylinders were 26 thou over,
and the legal limit was 30. Oversized rings were impossible to find, although
standard-sized rings were still available (15 years ago).
Lycoming rated this 65 hp at 2700 rpm, IIRC. There's no way mine cranked out 65
hp, but then I wasn't turning 2700 rpm (nobody does). Although I never had my
engine on a dynamometer, I'm guessing it put out 50-55 hp. On a hot day in Florida,
the tall pines on the departure end at Bob Lee's were close enough to provide
a lot of extra pucker power.
If you're working on an experimental and you're good with engines and machine work,
you might be able to get one of these to work for you if you can get it for
dirt cheap and you're willing to scrounge and put in the time. But if you're
comparing this to an A-65, don't. They're apples and oranges.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
From: brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com
Sent: Sep 24, 2010 12:45 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Lycoming 65 Hp ad
FYI for the group, this was listed on our local online classifieds.
www.ksl.com
Go to classifieds, then to recreational vehicles, then to airplanes and scroll
down the list and you can see the ad and pics.
$800.00
Lycoming 65 HP Motor (disassembled)
RIGBY, ID 83442
Hard to find Lycoming 65 HP Motor. Motor is disassembled. Has good crank, etc.
Motor was a spare motor for my BL 65 Taylorcraft. Sold aircraft.
Dennis 208-745-0109
Brian
SLC-UT
Cont 0-200
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack" <jack(at)textors.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming 65 Hp ad |
Not an authority for sure but I would say with the rusted crank flange it's
toast.
Jack
DSM
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 11:46 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Lycoming 65 Hp ad
FYI for the group, this was listed on our local online classifieds.
www.ksl.com
Go to classifieds, then to recreational vehicles, then to airplanes and
scroll down the list and you can see the ad and pics.
$800.00
Lycoming 65 HP Motor (disassembled)
RIGBY, ID 83442
Hard to find Lycoming 65 HP Motor. Motor is disassembled. Has good crank,
etc. Motor was a spare motor for my BL 65 Taylorcraft. Sold aircraft.
Dennis 208-745-0109
Brian
SLC-UT
Cont 0-200
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: onr more thing.... cables |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
With all of this recent talk of wrapped and soldered cable ends and riveted brackets,
someone is soon bound to ask for a source of casein glue, Irish linen,
nitrocellulose dope and 6-ply hard cardboard for leading edge material. Oh, and
also let us not forget about those SF-325 and SF-326 turnbuckles...
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313635#313635
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lycoming 65 Hp ad |
That good info to know....nobody wants a "Boat anchor" on the front of their plane.
Brian
SLC-UT
Cont. 0-200
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Ash
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Lycoming 65 Hp ad
I had one of these (Lycoming O145-B2) in my Cub, which is why my Cub now has a
C-90 in it. I paid dearly to fix the mistake of not knowing what I was doing when
I bought the Cub and it was almost all because of that @#$%^& motor. I poured
a lot of money into nursing that engine along before it blew a head gasket,
maybe 10 hours into having it rebuilt, and I gave up on it. Then lots more money
to get the C-90 and have it mounted up and signed off (more costly mistakes
in choosing an A&P to do the job).
The cylinders are cast as part of the case. You don't just replace a jug when one
goes poof. According to my A&P at the time, my cylinders were 26 thou over,
and the legal limit was 30. Oversized rings were impossible to find, although
standard-sized rings were still available (15 years ago).
Lycoming rated this 65 hp at 2700 rpm, IIRC. There's no way mine cranked out 65
hp, but then I wasn't turning 2700 rpm (nobody does). Although I never had my
engine on a dynamometer, I'm guessing it put out 50-55 hp. On a hot day in Florida,
the tall pines on the departure end at Bob Lee's were close enough to provide
a lot of extra pucker power.
If you're working on an experimental and you're good with engines and machine work,
you might be able to get one of these to work for you if you can get it for
dirt cheap and you're willing to scrounge and put in the time. But if you're
comparing this to an A-65, don't. They're apples and oranges.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
From: brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com
Sent: Sep 24, 2010 12:45 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Lycoming 65 Hp ad
FYI for the group, this was listed on our local online classifieds.
www.ksl.com
Go to classifieds, then to recreational vehicles, then to airplanes and scroll
down the list and you can see the ad and pics.
$800.00
Lycoming 65 HP Motor (disassembled)
RIGBY, ID 83442
Hard to find Lycoming 65 HP Motor. Motor is disassembled. Has good crank, etc.
Motor was a spare motor for my BL 65 Taylorcraft. Sold aircraft.
Dennis 208-745-0109
Brian
SLC-UT
Cont 0-200
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming 65 Hp ad |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
True, however my wife would love to make a planter out of one, ever since I
showed her a picture of that A-65 case half made into a planter next to one
of the Broadhead hangers.
rick
On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 12:58 PM, <brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com> wrote:
>
> That good info to know....nobody wants a "Boat anchor" on the front of
> their plane.
>
> Brian
> SLC-UT
> Cont. 0-200
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Ash
> Sent: Friday, September 24, 2010 11:28 AM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Lycoming 65 Hp ad
>
>
> I had one of these (Lycoming O145-B2) in my Cub, which is why my Cub now
> has a C-90 in it. I paid dearly to fix the mistake of not knowing what I was
> doing when I bought the Cub and it was almost all because of that @#$%^&
> motor. I poured a lot of money into nursing that engine along before it blew
> a head gasket, maybe 10 hours into having it rebuilt, and I gave up on it.
> Then lots more money to get the C-90 and have it mounted up and signed off
> (more costly mistakes in choosing an A&P to do the job).
>
> The cylinders are cast as part of the case. You don't just replace a jug
> when one goes poof. According to my A&P at the time, my cylinders were 26
> thou over, and the legal limit was 30. Oversized rings were impossible to
> find, although standard-sized rings were still available (15 years ago).
>
> Lycoming rated this 65 hp at 2700 rpm, IIRC. There's no way mine cranked
> out 65 hp, but then I wasn't turning 2700 rpm (nobody does). Although I
> never had my engine on a dynamometer, I'm guessing it put out 50-55 hp. On a
> hot day in Florida, the tall pines on the departure end at Bob Lee's were
> close enough to provide a lot of extra pucker power.
>
> If you're working on an experimental and you're good with engines and
> machine work, you might be able to get one of these to work for you if you
> can get it for dirt cheap and you're willing to scrounge and put in the
> time. But if you're comparing this to an A-65, don't. They're apples and
> oranges.
>
> Jim Ash
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: brian.e.jardine@l-3com.com
> Sent: Sep 24, 2010 12:45 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Lycoming 65 Hp ad
>
>
> FYI for the group, this was listed on our local online classifieds.
>
> www.ksl.com
>
> Go to classifieds, then to recreational vehicles, then to airplanes and
> scroll down the list and you can see the ad and pics.
>
>
> $800.00
> Lycoming 65 HP Motor (disassembled)
> RIGBY, ID 83442
> Hard to find Lycoming 65 HP Motor. Motor is disassembled. Has good crank,
> etc. Motor was a spare motor for my BL 65 Taylorcraft. Sold aircraft.
>
> Dennis 208-745-0109
>
>
> Brian
> SLC-UT
> Cont 0-200
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Save Big on EAA How-to Books! |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
After seeing this post, I decided last week to take advantage of the sale prices
and ordered the set of 4 Bingelis books and also the full set of the Flying
and Gliding manuals. UPS just dropped them on my doorstep 10 minutes ago. I
was going to paint my kitchen ceiling today, but I have a really strong suspicion
that's not going to happen right now! :D
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313643#313643
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: onr more thing.... cables |
| From: | Kip and Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
Since you asked....
http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/277792504/CASEIN_GLUE.html
On Sep 24, 2010, at 2:52 PM, Billy McCaskill wrote:
>
> With all of this recent talk of wrapped and soldered cable ends and riveted brackets,
someone is soon bound to ask for a source of casein glue, Irish linen,
nitrocellulose dope and 6-ply hard cardboard for leading edge material. Oh,
and also let us not forget about those SF-325 and SF-326 turnbuckles...
>
> --------
> Billy McCaskill
> Urbana, IL
> tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313635#313635
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Wilson <garywilson213(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Save Big on EAA How-to Books! |
I ordered mine on Tuesday...Can't wait for them to arrive!!!=0A=0AGary=0ADo
Not Archive=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: Billy McCaski
ll =0ATo: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Fri, Septemb
er 24, 2010 3:24:31 PM=0ASubject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Save Big on EAA How-t
mz(at)cox.net>=0A=0AAfter seeing this post, I decided last week to take advant
age of the sale prices =0Aand ordered the set of 4 Bingelis books and also
the full set of the Flying and =0AGliding manuals.- UPS just dropped them
on my doorstep 10 minutes ago.- I was =0Agoing to paint my kitchen ceili
ng today, but I have a really strong suspicion =0Athat's not going to happe
n right now!- :D=0A=0A--------=0ABilly McCaskill=0AUrbana, IL=0Atail sect
ion almost done, starting on ribs soon=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online
here:=0A=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313643#313643=0A
=========================0A
======================0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "VanDy" <matthew.vandervort(at)gmail.com> |
thanks for all the great feedback, as always :) i think im going to go with stainless
though, the extra cost seems to be worth it in this case, although im going
to do some weight research and what not as well.
One of the reasons im steering away from galvanized is that over the winter i found
the Pietenpol with a broken tailwheel steering cable (galvanized) and it
really made me think, ok so what do the ones in the wing look like.... they didnt
look bad, but enough to make me replace them. A quick history about the
plane. It has sat in an open T-hangar, the kind where there is another plane
180 facing 180 degrees on either side. for the last 8 years. Although i'll be
storing it in a closed hangar, it makes me think!
Now im about to go out and take a rough measurement of just how much I need and
add 25%, although will probly end up ordering what i can afford when i can!
Thanks again!!
AN hardware (short of turn buckles) are in the mail.
Corvair is ready to come off.
Carb is waiting to be rebuilt.
tail feathers ready for cover
thanks for all the great feedback and advice!!
--------
www.vansavition.com follow my Piet rebuild there!
almost dissasembled, getting ready to order all AN hardware and SS cable
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313679#313679
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: onr more thing.... cables |
| From: | "VanDy" <matthew.vandervort(at)gmail.com> |
hey Billy, whats wrong with the cardboard leading edge? I just got done pulling
that off of my wing! and it originally came in at 662 pounds with a corvair,
so im hoping to shave a few extra pounds off where i can!
--------
www.vansavition.com follow my Piet rebuild there!
almost dissasembled, getting ready to order all AN hardware and SS cable
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313680#313680
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack" <jack(at)textors.com> |
Van,
Tried your site and it's a bad link. Have you got it going yet?
Jack
DSM
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of VanDy
Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2010 12:35 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: cables
thanks for all the great feedback, as always :) i think im going to go with
stainless though, the extra cost seems to be worth it in this case, although
im going to do some weight research and what not as well.
One of the reasons im steering away from galvanized is that over the winter
i found the Pietenpol with a broken tailwheel steering cable (galvanized)
and it really made me think, ok so what do the ones in the wing look
like.... they didnt look bad, but enough to make me replace them. A quick
history about the plane. It has sat in an open T-hangar, the kind where
there is another plane 180 facing 180 degrees on either side. for the last
8 years. Although i'll be storing it in a closed hangar, it makes me think!
Now im about to go out and take a rough measurement of just how much I need
and add 25%, although will probly end up ordering what i can afford when i
can!
Thanks again!!
AN hardware (short of turn buckles) are in the mail.
Corvair is ready to come off.
Carb is waiting to be rebuilt.
tail feathers ready for cover
thanks for all the great feedback and advice!!
--------
www.vansavition.com follow my Piet rebuild there!
almost dissasembled, getting ready to order all AN hardware and SS cable
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313679#313679
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal(at)comcast.net> |
Try this link...
http://www.vansaviation.com/
----- Original Message -----
From: "VanDy" <matthew.vandervort(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2010 12:34 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: cables
>
>
> thanks for all the great feedback, as always :) i think im going to go
> with stainless though, the extra cost seems to be worth it in this case,
> although im going to do some weight research and what not as well.
>
> One of the reasons im steering away from galvanized is that over the
> winter i found the Pietenpol with a broken tailwheel steering cable
> (galvanized) and it really made me think, ok so what do the ones in the
> wing look like.... they didnt look bad, but enough to make me replace
> them. A quick history about the plane. It has sat in an open T-hangar,
> the kind where there is another plane 180 facing 180 degrees on either
> side. for the last 8 years. Although i'll be storing it in a closed
> hangar, it makes me think!
>
> Now im about to go out and take a rough measurement of just how much I
> need and add 25%, although will probly end up ordering what i can afford
> when i can!
>
> Thanks again!!
> AN hardware (short of turn buckles) are in the mail.
> Corvair is ready to come off.
> Carb is waiting to be rebuilt.
> tail feathers ready for cover
>
> thanks for all the great feedback and advice!!
>
> --------
> www.vansavition.com follow my Piet rebuild there!
>
> almost dissasembled, getting ready to order all AN hardware and SS cable
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313679#313679
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Landing Gear Brackets |
| From: | "skellytown flyer" <skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com> |
Well I haven't worked with Iron rivets in a long time but as a kid I set many of
them with a Ball Peen hammer.of course they were going through steel sickle
bars holding the cutters on but i seems to me like as long as you have an anvil
to set the head against the method should work about the same.it didn't take
long to do one,the only think I can think of that might be a problem is what
keeps the rivet from trying to swell inside the wood and split it? I never tried
to rivet something like that but I would think if you don't have the equipment
described it would be easy to make up a sample piece and just give the hammer
method a try. it is pretty easy with practice to work around the end of the
rivet with the round head and make a good shop head. Raymond
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313688#313688
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TriScout" <apfelcyber(at)yahoo.com> |
That reminds me. It finally dawned on me that the GN-1 that I bought is the only
one I've ever seen w/out the cross bracing cables that crisscross between the
wing struts. The fella that I bought it from told me to keep in mind that if
a wing drops, or when you level it out after a bank, that it "takes all she got"
to get that wing up level again. He put in some quick gap seals on the airlerons
using dope/fabric, and said that it helps a little, but he said to just
be aware of it when the time comes to fly it. The airframe does have about 480hrs
on it, so it IS a proven airframe, but I am wondering if this lack of cross
bracing may be contributing to the wing possibly warping slightly with aileron
use, etc..
also, before the last person bought it and rebuilt it, it was in a mishap back
in '02. This, in my mind confirms my theory about the lack of cross bracing. Here's
an excerpt of the accident back then:
[b]He began the takeoff roll and initiated a
normal climb until about 20 feet above ground level (agl) when the airplane suddenly
and violently
banked to the left. He applied full right rudder and also right aileron input but
was not able to
recover before the left wing impacted the ground. He then reduced power and the
airplane then
nosed over and came to rest on a closed runway. Postcrash, he checked the flight
controls and
stated, "they moved correctly and freely." He also stated that there was no evidence
of pre-impact
structural failure or malfunction.
Any thoughts on this?
Larry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313699#313699
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/1_132.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: onr more thing.... cables |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
Why did you remove the cardboard leading edge material? Was it deteriortated?
If it were plywood, it would probably still be in good shape.
Also, I think that the plywood will add more strength to the wing and also probably
be a few pounds lighter.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313703#313703
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack" <jack(at)textors.com> |
All,
I plan to install a ram vent in my fuel cap, which is galvanized. Looking
for the best way to secure the line. Braze solder? Will I need to grind
the galvanized coating off? Any help would be great!
Go Hawks!
Jack
DSM
Jack Textor
29 SW 58th Drive
Des Moines, IA 50312
www.textors.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel cap vent |
| From: | gboothe5(at)comcast.net |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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Dever <chiefpepperhead(at)hotmail.com> |
Someone else pipe up here if Im wrong=2C but I have no idea what would keep
the wing from twisting around the vertical axis relative to the fuselage.
With the configuration of a Piet or a GN-1 and parallel lift struts it wou
ld appear to me that you would have to have the cross bracing. Other desig
ns get around this of course by the "V" configuration of the lift struts.
Doug Dever
In beautiful Stow Ohio
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: cables
> From: apfelcyber(at)yahoo.com
> Date: Sat=2C 25 Sep 2010 07:27:28 -0700
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> That reminds me. It finally dawned on me that the GN-1 that I bought is t
he only one I've ever seen w/out the cross bracing cables that crisscross b
etween the wing struts. The fella that I bought it from told me to keep in
mind that if a wing drops=2C or when you level it out after a bank=2C that
it "takes all she got" to get that wing up level again. He put in some quic
k gap seals on the airlerons using dope/fabric=2C and said that it helps a
little=2C but he said to just be aware of it when the time comes to fly it.
The airframe does have about 480hrs on it=2C so it IS a proven airframe=2C
but I am wondering if this lack of cross bracing may be contributing to th
e wing possibly warping slightly with aileron use=2C etc..
>
> also=2C before the last person bought it and rebuilt it=2C it was in a mi
shap back in '02. This=2C in my mind confirms my theory about the lack of c
ross bracing. Here's an excerpt of the accident back then:
>
>
> [b]He began the takeoff roll and initiated a
> normal climb until about 20 feet above ground level (agl) when the airpla
ne suddenly and violently
> banked to the left. He applied full right rudder and also right aileron i
nput but was not able to
> recover before the left wing impacted the ground. He then reduced power a
nd the airplane then
> nosed over and came to rest on a closed runway. Postcrash=2C he checked t
he flight controls and
> stated=2C "they moved correctly and freely." He also stated that there wa
s no evidence of pre-impact
> structural failure or malfunction.
>
> Any thoughts on this?
>
> Larry
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313699#313699
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/1_132.jpg
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale Johnson" <ddjohn(at)earthlink.net> |
Jack
You can soft solder galvanized coating. If you grind the galvanized coating of
you will
have to brass braze it. I soft soldered a copper tube to the cap.
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack
Sent: 9/25/2010 1:45:32 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuel cap vent
All,
I plan to install a ram vent in my fuel cap, which is galvanized. Looking for
the best way to secure the line. Braze solder? Will I need to grind the galvanized
coating off? Any help would be great!
Go Hawks!
Jack
DSM
Jack Textor
29 SW 58th Drive
Des Moines, IA 50312
www.textors.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "carson" <carsonvella(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Hi guys
Hoping someone can help
I have an L2A Lycoming 235 and am not sure if it is a type 1 or 2 dynafocal ring
I have searched high and low and think it should be a type 1 but am not sure.
Does anyone have the answer?
Carson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313725#313725
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel cap vent |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Hi Jack,
The fuel cap I used is aluminum, from Wag Aero I think. I fabricated a cur
ved aluminum ram-air tube to fit on the top of the cap. I actually epoxied
it together. Works well.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack <jack(at)textors.com>
Sent: Sat, Sep 25, 2010 12:58 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuel cap vent
All,
I plan to install a ram vent in my fuel cap, which is galvanized. Looking
for the best way to secure the line. Braze solder? Will I need to grind
the galvanized coating off? Any help would be great!
Go Hawks!
Jack
DSM
Jack Textor
29 SW 58th Drive
Des Moines, IA 50312
www.textors.com
========================
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel cap vent |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
J.B. Weld works too.
On Sat, Sep 25, 2010 at 5:08 PM, wrote:
> Hi Jack,
>
> The fuel cap I used is aluminum, from Wag Aero I think. I fabricated a
> curved aluminum ram-air tube to fit on the top of the cap. I actually
> epoxied it together. Works well.
>
> Dan Helsper
> Poplar Grove, IL.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jack <jack(at)textors.com>
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Sat, Sep 25, 2010 12:58 pm
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuel cap vent
>
> All,
> I plan to install a ram vent in my fuel cap, which is galvanized. Looking
> for the best way to secure the line. Braze solder? Will I need to grind
> the galvanized coating off? Any help would be great!
> Go Hawks!
> Jack
> DSM
> Jack Textor
> 29 SW 58th Drive
> Des Moines, IA 50312
> www.textors.com
>
> *
>
> ===================================
> t" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> ===================================
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> ===================================
> _blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ===================================
> *
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KM Heide CPO/FAAOP <kmheidecpo(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fuselage question |
Members of the list:
-
While cutting and piecing together the fuselage, it is my understanding the
struts and side braces are to have wedges inserted between them before you
glue on the plywood gusset. Question: Do you apply these wedges between al
l struts and braces on both the top and bottom of each side? Not sure where
these wedge pieces belong and, if they should be included in all areas whe
re the struts and bracing come in contact with the longerons.
Any advice is much needed advice.....
-
KMHeide
-
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Dotson" <jdotson(at)centurylink.net> |
Here is a link to Lycoming's website with an explanation at the very bottom. I
copied just that portion of the page.
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/engines/series/pdfs/320ci%20Engine%20Insert.pdf
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
Started building NX510JD July, 2009
wing, tailfeathers done
using Lycoming O-235
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313732#313732
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/a47_168.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <catdesigns(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Fuselage question |
There are no wedges on the plans. The only place I added wedges are the
cluster where the landing gear/wing strut fitting is bolted on and where the
engine mount fittings bolt on.
Chris
Sacramento, Ca
Westcoastpiet.com
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of KM Heide
CPO/FAAOP
Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2010 6:12 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuselage question
Members of the list:
While cutting and piecing together the fuselage, it is my understanding the
struts and side braces are to have wedges inserted between them before you
glue on the plywood gusset. Question: Do you apply these wedges between all
struts and braces on both the top and bottom of each side? Not sure where
these wedge pieces belong and, if they should be included in all areas where
the struts and bracing come in contact with the longerons.
Any advice is much needed advice.....
KMHeide
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
I think this one is what you want. It's O-235.
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/engines/series/pdfs/235ci%20Insert.pdf
Interesting to see that they've made your engine with
dynafocal mounts. My O-290 has conical.
Clif
> Here is a link to Lycoming's website with an explanation at the very
> bottom. I copied just that portion of the page.
> http://www.lycoming.textron.com/engines/series/pdfs/320ci%20Engine%20Insert.pdf
>
> --------
> Jerry Dotson
> 59 Daniel Johnson Rd
> Baker, FL 32531
>
> Started building NX510JD July, 2009
> wing, tailfeathers done
> using Lycoming O-235
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KM Heide CPO/FAAOP <kmheidecpo(at)yahoo.com> |
Fellow Pieters,
-
-
I met up with an old time friend today for some Corvair talk. Vern is a ret
ired GM Factory Corvair engineer and engine specialist for over 30 years! A
walking Corvair guru!
-
Anyhow, here is what $125.00 bucks will get you! You should of heard it run
! He has a barn full of parts!
-
KMHeide
-
-
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
It's not the lubrication that's the problem.
We all know that a piece of wire will break if it's bent
back and forth a number of times. Well, stainless will
crystalize and break a lot sooner than non stainless.
As the cable moves back and forth over a pulley it is
doing the same thing a little bit at a time. The question
is, how long before that break will happen? The other
question is, how long before your cables, in your
location, where your plane will spend the rest of it's
days, will rust and need replacement? To me, the
former is of greater concern and my plane will live
500 ft from the shoreline of the Salish Sea in the
company of forty others, some of which have been
there since the fifties. There's also a hundred or so
aircraft at Boundary Bay that are within a quarter mile
of the same salty waters. All cabled with galvanized
and 85% of them have never seen the inside of a
hanger.
Ask around. I think for a lot of you, strange looks will
be the order of the day with the question, " Why do
you want to do that? It's not a seaplane is it?"
Clif
"Things which matter most must never be at the mercy of things which
matter least."
~ Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
Doesn't the zinc coating on the galvanized "lubricate" the cable?--
Dan Yocum
yocum137(at)gmail.com
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
what does going around a pulley have to do with galvanized vs
stainless???
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris" <catdesigns(at)att.net> |
| Subject: | Westcoastpiet Website |
I finally got the website mostly working again. There are some links I need
to redo but the majority of it is back. I will have to fix it later because
I need to get my ailerons finished before it starts to rain, and the wife's
car needs to be back in the garage.
Chris
Sacramento, Ca
Westcoastpiet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage question |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
Actually, there are wedges mentioned in the plans. The only place I have seen
them noticed for the fuse sides are the three in the cockpit area. I glued these
in after the gussets were glued in place, but I suppose they could be added
at any time.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313743#313743
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fuse_186.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage question |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
After reading Chris' note again, I think we are talking about the same wedges.
Maybe we are all talking of the same wedges? Not sure.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313744#313744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage question |
The wedges are necessary at the stations where the landing gear bolts
on on the bottom of the fuselage. I don't have my plans in front of me,
but I believe that is all that is called for.
Ben
On 9/25/2010 9:12 PM, KM Heide CPO/FAAOP wrote:
> Members of the list:
> While cutting and piecing together the fuselage, it is my
> understanding the struts and side braces are to have wedges inserted
> between them before you glue on the plywood gusset. Question: Do you
> apply these wedges between all struts and braces on both the top and
> bottom of each side? Not sure where these wedge pieces belong and, if
> they should be included in all areas where the struts and bracing come
> in contact with the longerons.
> Any advice is much needed advice.....
> KMHeide
> */ /*
> *//*
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "carson" <carsonvella(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Thanks for the replies but it still doesn't help me to determine if it is a type
1 or 2
I have found this but am not sure if I am reading it correctly
If you look at L2A It reads similar to J2A then J2A is similar to J2B that has
a type 1 ring. So I read it as the L2A has the type 1
http://150cessna.tripod.com/e-223.pdf
I can't get it to work as a link so hope it will work if you cut and paste
What do you guys think
Carson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313748#313748
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
Why not ask Lycoming themselves? Give 'em the serial#.
Clif
> Thanks for the replies but it still doesn't help me to determine if it is
> a type 1 or 2
> What do you guys think
> Carson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "carson" <carsonvella(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Thanks for the replies but it still doesn't help me to determine if it is a type
1 or 2
I have found this but am not sure if I am reading it correctly
If you look at L2A It reads similar to J2A then J2A is similar to J2B that has
a type 1 ring. So I read it as the L2A has the type 1
http://150cessna.tripod.com/e-223.pdf
I can't get it to work as a link so hope it will work if you cut and paste
What do you guys think
Carson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313757#313757
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
That's what the flying wires between the lift struts are for. Between them
and the roll wires on the cabanes, the wing manages to keep itself aligned
with the fuselage.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Dever
Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2010 3:44 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: cables
Someone else pipe up here if Im wrong, but I have no idea what would keep
the wing from twisting around the vertical axis relative to the fuselage.
With the configuration of a Piet or a GN-1 and parallel lift struts it would
appear to me that you would have to have the cross bracing. Other designs
get around this of course by the "V" configuration of the lift struts.
Doug Dever
In beautiful Stow Ohio
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: cables
> From: apfelcyber(at)yahoo.com
> Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 07:27:28 -0700
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> That reminds me. It finally dawned on me that the GN-1 that I bought is
the only one I've ever seen w/out the cross bracing cables that crisscross
between the wing struts. The fella that I bought it from told me to keep in
mind that if a wing drops, or when you level it out after a bank, that it
"takes all she got" to get that wing up level again. He put in some quick
gap seals on the airlerons using dope/fabric, and said that it helps a
little, but he said to just be aware of it when the time comes to fly it.
The airframe does have about 480hrs on it, so it IS a proven airframe, but I
am wondering if this lack of cross bracing may be contributing to the wing
possibly warping slightly with aileron use, etc..
>
> also, before the last person bought it and rebuilt it, it was in a mishap
back in '02. This, in my mind confirms my theory about the lack of cross
bracing. Here's an excerpt of the accident back then:
>
>
> [b]He began the takeoff roll and initiated a
> normal climb until about 20 feet above ground level (agl) when the
airplane suddenly and violently
> banked to the left. He applied full right rudder and also right aileron
input but was not able to
> recover before the left wing impacted the ground. He then reduced power
and the airplane then
> nosed over and came to rest on a closed runway. Postcrash, he checked the
flight controls and
> stated, "they moved correctly and freely." He also stated that there was
no evidence of pre-impact
> structural failure or malfunction.
>
> Any thoughts on this?
>
> Larry
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313699#313699
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/1_132.jpg
>
>
>=================
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Rambo <generambo(at)msn.com> |
stainless steel cables have been the standard for aircraft construction sin
ce the 1940's=2C and every single production plane in the world that I know
of uses stainless cable. I didn't use it because I wanted to wrap/solder
my connections=2C but there is absolutely nothing wring with stainless goin
g around pulleys=2C period. If I lived near salt water=2C there is no ques
tion but that i would use sgtainless=2C though.
Gene
From: CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: cables
Date: Sat=2C 25 Sep 2010 19:59:40 -0700
It's not the lubrication that's the problem.
We all know that a piece of wire will break if it's bent
back and forth a number of times. Well=2C stainless will
crystalize and break a lot sooner than non stainless.
As the cable moves back and forth over a pulley it is
doing the same thing a little bit at a time. The question
is=2C how long before that break will happen? The other
question is=2C how long before your cables=2C in your
location=2C where your plane will spend the rest of it's
days=2C will rust and need replacement? To me=2C the
former is of greater concern and my plane will live
500 ft from the shoreline of the Salish Sea in the
company of forty others=2C some of which have been
there since the fifties. There's also a hundred or so
aircraft at Boundary Bay that are within a quarter mile
of the same salty waters. All cabled with galvanized
and 85% of them have never seen the inside of a
hanger.
Ask around. I think for a lot of you=2C strange looks will
be the order of the day with the question=2C " Why do
you want to do that? It's not a seaplane is it?"
Clif
"Things which matter most must never be at the mercy of things which matter
least."
~ Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
Doesn't the zinc coating on the galvanized "lubricate" the cable?-- Dan Yoc
um
yocum137(at)gmail.com
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
what does going around a pulley have to do with galvanized vs stainless???
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Corvair Engine |
| From: | Ken Chambers <ken.riffic(at)gmail.com> |
Wow!
Where's Vern located?
On Sat, Sep 25, 2010 at 9:54 PM, KM Heide CPO/FAAOP wrote:
> Fellow Pieters,
>
>
> I met up with an old time friend today for some Corvair talk. Vern is a
> retired GM Factory Corvair engineer and engine specialist for over 30 years!
> A walking Corvair guru!
>
> Anyhow, here is what $125.00 bucks will get you! You should of heard it
> run! He has a barn full of parts!
>
> KMHeide
>
>
> *
> *
> **
>
>
--
Ken Chambers
512-796-1798
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "amsafetyc(at)aol.com" <amsafetyc(at)aol.com> |
I have the c1b engine and have spoken to lycoming about other issues and
found them very helpful. I would suggest you do the same. No sense going
with questionable information when the experts are just a phone call away
John
Sent via DROID on Verizon Wireless
-----Original message-----
From: carson <carsonvella(at)yahoo.com.au>
Sent: Sun, Sep 26, 2010 08:58:24 GMT+00:00
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: 0-235 info
Thanks for the replies but it still doesn't help me to determine if it is a
type 1 or 2
I have found this but am not sure if I am reading it correctly
If you look at L2A It reads similar to J2A then J2A is similar to J2B that
has a type 1 ring. So I read it as the L2A has the type 1
http://150cessna.tripod.com/e-223.pdf
I can't get it to work as a link so hope it will work if you cut and paste
What do you guys think
Carson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313757#313757
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage question |
Ken,
I believe there are wedges at major stress points... the first 3 verticals:
-- the firewall, likely at both upper and lower longerons;
-- the lower longeron at front main LG attach point;
-- the lower longeron at rear main LG attach point.
I have also added wedges at one other spot-- where I attach:
a) the pivots for the tailwheel assy.(steel angle pivots are outside and under
the lower longeron) and
b) fittings attaching cables that run to the pilot seatbelt and pilot shoulder
harness (steel strip fittings inside the lower longeron).
Tim in central TX
-----Original Message-----
From: KM Heide CPO/FAAOP
Sent: Sep 25, 2010 8:12 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuselage question
Members of the list:
While cutting and piecing together the fuselage, it is my understanding the struts
and side braces are to have wedges inserted between them before you glue on
the plywood gusset. Question: Do you apply these wedges between all struts and
braces on both the top and bottom of each side? Not sure where these wedge
pieces belong and, if they should be included in all areas where the struts and
bracing come in contact with the longerons.
Any advice is much needed advice.....
KMHeide
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KM Heide CPO/FAAOP <kmheidecpo(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Corvair Engine |
Vern is located in Detroit Lakes, MN. I can get his number if you like.
-
KMHeide
-
--- On Sun, 9/26/10, Ken Chambers wrote:
From: Ken Chambers <ken.riffic(at)gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Corvair Engine
Date: Sunday, September 26, 2010, 9:03 AM
Wow!
Where's Vern located?
On Sat, Sep 25, 2010 at 9:54 PM, KM Heide CPO/FAAOP
wrote:
Fellow Pieters,
-
-
I met up with an old time friend today for some Corvair talk. Vern is a ret
ired GM Factory Corvair engineer and engine specialist for over 30 years! A
walking Corvair guru!
-
Anyhow, here is what $125.00 bucks will get you! You should of heard it run
! He has a barn full of parts!
-
KMHeide
-
-
--
Ken Chambers
512-796-1798
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Dever <chiefpepperhead(at)hotmail.com> |
That was my point to the person who bought a GN-1 without the lift strut wi
res. I wouldn't even think about getting in one without them. I'm amazed
it has 40hrs on it.
Doug Dever
In beautiful Stow Ohio
From: pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: cables
Date: Sun=2C 26 Sep 2010 08:00:26 -0400
That=92s what the flying wires between the lift struts are for. Between th
em and the roll wires on the cabanes=2C the wing manages to keep itself ali
gned with the fuselage.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh=2C NC
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-lis
t-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Doug Dever
Sent: Saturday=2C September 25=2C 2010 3:44 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: cables
Someone else pipe up here if Im wrong=2C but I have no idea what would keep
the wing from twisting around the vertical axis relative to the fuselage.
With the configuration of a Piet or a GN-1 and parallel lift struts it wou
ld appear to me that you would have to have the cross bracing. Other desig
ns get around this of course by the "V" configuration of the lift struts.
Doug Dever
In beautiful Stow Ohio
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: cables
> From: apfelcyber(at)yahoo.com
> Date: Sat=2C 25 Sep 2010 07:27:28 -0700
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> That reminds me. It finally dawned on me that the GN-1 that I bought is t
he only one I've ever seen w/out the cross bracing cables that crisscross b
etween the wing struts. The fella that I bought it from told me to keep in
mind that if a wing drops=2C or when you level it out after a bank=2C that
it "takes all she got" to get that wing up level again. He put in some quic
k gap seals on the airlerons using dope/fabric=2C and said that it helps a
little=2C but he said to just be aware of it when the time comes to fly it.
The airframe does have about 480hrs on it=2C so it IS a proven airframe=2C
but I am wondering if this lack of cross bracing may be contributing to th
e wing possibly warping slightly with aileron use=2C etc..
>
> also=2C before the last person bought it and rebuilt it=2C it was in a mi
shap back in '02. This=2C in my mind confirms my theory about the lack of c
ross bracing. Here's an excerpt of the accident back then:
>
>
> [b]He began the takeoff roll and initiated a
> normal climb until about 20 feet above ground level (agl) when the airpla
ne suddenly and violently
> banked to the left. He applied full right rudder and also right aileron i
nput but was not able to
> recover before the left wing impacted the ground. He then reduced power a
nd the airplane then
> nosed over and came to rest on a closed runway. Postcrash=2C he checked t
he flight controls and
> stated=2C "they moved correctly and freely." He also stated that there wa
s no evidence of pre-impact
> structural failure or malfunction.
>
> Any thoughts on this?
>
> Larry
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313699#313699
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/1_132.jpg
>
>
>=================
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-Listhttp://forums.matronic
s.comhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Corvair Engine |
| From: | "Pieti Lowell" <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com> |
Has anyone seen or thought about the Turbo Corvair Engine, I had one that I used
in a swamp buggy, It had low compression cylinders , could use standard fuel
until I used the Turbo and had to use hi octane fuel to prevent knocking,She
sure cranked out HP.
Pieti Lowell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313794#313794
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Corvair Engine |
| From: | "tdudley(at)umn.edu" <tdudley(at)umn.edu> |
KM,
I'm in Alexandria, MN and would be interested in maybe meeting with both you and
Vern. I'm early in my build (started building ribs a week ago and have five
done) but I'm interested in the Corvair engine. Let me know.
Tom
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313797#313797
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
List,
They say that if you have an engine hanging from a tree, you're a redneck.
How about if you have an engine hanging from a beam in your garage?
The attached picture is just before I loaded my engine back in my truck for
next weekend's CC #18, in Livermore, CA. With any luck, I'll run that engine
on a test stand, with William Wynne's supervision!
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(20 ribs down.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Those that have, and those that will... |
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com> |
...get leaks in their fiberglass fuel tank. What did you think I was talking about?
;-)
Word to the wise, make your fuel tank as accessible as possible. Looks like I'll
have to cut into my center section blind to find out what's going in there.
Humph. And leaves haven't even changed colors, yet. I might have to steal Ryan
and Jess's Piet if I want to seem them, this year.
--
Dan Yocum
yocum137(at)gmail.com
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Am I a Redneck? |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
Since I don't see a tree in the picture, or a rusty old F-100 up on cement blocks
I think you are safe from the redneck label.
Good luck at the Corvair College next week, I'm sure you will let us all know how
that turned out.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313806#313806
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Corvair Engine |
| From: | Ken Chambers <ken.riffic(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks. but I'm in Texas, so that makes him quite a hike. See if I can find
an engine closer.
On Sun, Sep 26, 2010 at 10:15 AM, KM Heide CPO/FAAOP
wrote:
> Vern is located in Detroit Lakes, MN. I can get his number if you like.
>
> KMHeide
>
> *
> *
> **
>
>
> --- On *Sun, 9/26/10, Ken Chambers * wrote:
>
>
> From: Ken Chambers <ken.riffic(at)gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Corvair Engine
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, September 26, 2010, 9:03 AM
>
>
> Wow!
>
> Where's Vern located?
>
>
> On Sat, Sep 25, 2010 at 9:54 PM, KM Heide CPO/FAAOP http://us.mc527.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=kmheidecpo@yahoo.com>
> > wrote:
>
> Fellow Pieters,
>
>
> I met up with an old time friend today for some Corvair talk. Vern is a
> retired GM Factory Corvair engineer and engine specialist for over 30 years!
> A walking Corvair guru!
>
> Anyhow, here is what $125.00 bucks will get you! You should of heard it
> run! He has a barn full of parts!
>
> KMHeide
>
>
> *
> *
> **
>
>
> --
> Ken Chambers
> 512-796-1798
>
> *
>
> " target=_blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> =nofollow>http://forums.matronics.com
> blank rel=nofollow>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> *
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Ken Chambers
512-796-1798
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Westcoastpiet Website |
| From: | "carson" <carsonvella(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Chris why do you have a car in your garage that is just wrong
Hope you are well mate
Carson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313809#313809
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Plans and books for sale |
| From: | "GliderMike" <glidermikeg(at)yahoo.com> |
I have a full set of plans (all the options available for the Pietenpol family)
for sale. I paid $260 for them and will take $175, and will include US mail
postage on the plans. I've unrolled them three times. I also have the 1929
and 33 Flying Manuals; the 1930, 31, and 32 Flying and Glider Manuals,; the EAA
Aircraft Welding book; the HP Books' "Welders Handbook"; all 4 of the Tony Bingelis
books; the EAA "How To" Wood Book, the EAA Welding and Corrosion DVD,
and the EAA "Basic Aircraft Woodworking" video. I paid $190 for the EAA books,
and will take $90 for the lot. I also have William Wynne's Corvair Flight
Engines and the FlyCorvair.com Flight Operations Manual. I paid $84 for the two
WW books, and will take $45 for the pair. I also have Michael Perez's first
4 videos, I paid $70 (a bargain) for the group, and will take $25 for all four.
I have Mike Cuy's video, which Mike sells for $25 (another bargain), and
I will take $10 for it. I haven't copied or in any other way duplicated any of
these things. I have over-extended myself, and need to part with some things
that I won't be able to afford to use for at least 3 years. I would prefer
to ship by some method that has tracking capabilities (for your and my protection)
, and is reasonable priced, like the US postal 2day flat rate packaging.
I think the minimum is about $5.00 including the tracking, and max of $12.00
including the tracking, except for the plans. If anyone is interested in any
or all, please call me at eight zero one - eight seven nine - seven one two four.
If you buy all of it, I'll take $325 and I'll pay the postage, and I can
take credit cards through PayPal. I need expense money to move to Baton Rouge
to start a new A&P job, that I've been looking for since I finished school May
4th. If I had had an inkling it was going to be this difficult to get an A&P
job, I wouldn't have thought about building an airplane, much less bought all
the prep work things. I'm not sure if I would have started school.
--------
HOMEBUILDER
Will WORK for Spruce
Long flights, smooth air, and soft landings,
GliderMike, aka Mike Glasgow
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313815#313815
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Westcoastpiet Website |
Carson,
I suspect that Chris was forced to sign the same affidavit as I. Somehow I
didn't get my half (see attached).
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(20 ribs down.)
Donot Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of carson
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 4:22 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Westcoastpiet Website
Chris why do you have a car in your garage that is just wrong
Hope you are well mate
Carson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313809#313809
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Boyer <boyerjrb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Am I a Redneck? |
Gary, I don't think you qualify. Its not hanging from a tree over a pickup up on
blocks with a coom dog sleeping under it. And I'll grampa isn't sitting in a
rocker with a beer in his hand either.
Jim B.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 2:13:08 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Am I a Redneck?
List,
They say that if you have an engine hanging from a tree, youre a redneck. How about
if you have an engine hanging from a beam in your garage?
The attached picture is just before I loaded my engine back in my truck for next
weekends CC #18, in Livermore, CA. With any luck, Ill run that engine on a test
stand, with William Wynnes supervision!
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done,Fuselageon gear
(20 ribs down)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plans and books for sale |
Mike....give me a call here locally. Brian 801 882 0213
----- Original Message -----
From: GliderMike [mailto:glidermikeg(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 06:12 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Plans and books for sale
I have a full set of plans (all the options available for the Pietenpol family)
for sale. I paid $260 for them and will take $175, and will include US mail
postage on the plans. I've unrolled them three times. I also have the 1929
and 33 Flying Manuals; the 1930, 31, and 32 Flying and Glider Manuals,; the EAA
Aircraft Welding book; the HP Books' "Welders Handbook"; all 4 of the Tony Bingelis
books; the EAA "How To" Wood Book, the EAA Welding and Corrosion DVD,
and the EAA "Basic Aircraft Woodworking" video. I paid $190 for the EAA books,
and will take $90 for the lot. I also have William Wynne's Corvair Flight
Engines and the FlyCorvair.com Flight Operations Manual. I paid $84 for the two
WW books, and will take $45 for the pair. I also have Michael Perez's first
4 videos, I paid $70 (a bargain) for the group, and will take $25 for all four.
I have Mike Cuy's video, which Mike sells for $25 (another bargain), and
I will take $10 for it. I haven't copied or in any !
other way duplicated any of these things. I have over-extended myself, and need
to part with some things that I won't be able to afford to use for at least
3 years. I would prefer to ship by some method that has tracking capabilities
(for your and my protection) , and is reasonable priced, like the US postal
2day flat rate packaging. I think the minimum is about $5.00 including the tracking,
and max of $12.00 including the tracking, except for the plans. If anyone
is interested in any or all, please call me at eight zero one - eight seven
nine - seven one two four. If you buy all of it, I'll take $325 and I'll
pay the postage, and I can take credit cards through PayPal. I need expense money
to move to Baton Rouge to start a new A&P job, that I've been looking for
since I finished school May 4th. If I had had an inkling it was going to be
this difficult to get an A&P job, I wouldn't have thought about building an airplane,
much less bought all the prep work things. !
I'm not sure if I would have started school.
--------
HOMEBUILDER
Will WORK for Spruce
Long flights, smooth air, and soft landings,
GliderMike, aka Mike Glasgow
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313815#313815
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Those that have, and those that will... |
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com> |
Well, I'm happy to report that the main tank is galvanized, not fiberglass. I'll
still have to cut through fiberglass to get to the tank, however.
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
yocum137(at)gmail.com
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
On Sep 26, 2010, at 4:50 PM, Dan Yocum wrote:
>
> ...get leaks in their fiberglass fuel tank. What did you think I was talking
about? ;-)
>
> Word to the wise, make your fuel tank as accessible as possible. Looks like I'll
have to cut into my center section blind to find out what's going in there.
>
> Humph. And leaves haven't even changed colors, yet. I might have to steal Ryan
and Jess's Piet if I want to seem them, this year.
>
> --
> Dan Yocum
> yocum137(at)gmail.com
> "I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TriScout" <apfelcyber(at)yahoo.com> |
No, it has 480hrs on it w/out the strut cables (not 40). Not sure if it ever had
cables before, but I suspect this one never had them. The guy that bought it
as a project and rebuilt it after the mishap in back in 2000 never put cables
on the struts. He only put a couple of hrs on it himself before I bought it..sans
engine. He's the one that mentioned if a wing drops, it takes all she got
to get her back on an even keel. Now, the original builder could have had them
on there, but maybe he didn't (?).. That mishap in 2000 also could have just
been a simple stall on climbout if he took off at too low an airspeed. Guess
I'll be adding the cables ..
Larry
N2308C
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313833#313833
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Westcoastpiet Website |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
In the Sportplane Builder book, even Tony Bingelis emphatically said that the garage
is no place to keep the family car(s)...
:)
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313834#313834
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Am I a Redneck? |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
You know you are a redneck if you have a car air conditioner like this.
On Sun, Sep 26, 2010 at 4:46 PM, Billy McCaskill wrote:
>
> Since I don't see a tree in the picture, or a rusty old F-100 up on cement
> blocks I think you are safe from the redneck label.
>
> Good luck at the Corvair College next week, I'm sure you will let us all
> know how that turned out.
>
> --------
> Billy McCaskill
> Urbana, IL
> tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313806#313806
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: the Brew boys get together was a happening thing |
| From: | "kevinpurtee" <kevin.purtee(at)us.army.mil> |
It was a pleasure to meet John for the 1st time and to get to spend some more time
with Hans and Karen. Thanks to all of them for a really nice evening.
Also got to see Hans at the Critter's Lodge fly-in in Centerville, TX this weekend
(a wonderful outing). Two Corvair Piets at a small fly-in in central TX.
Lots of fun.
Photographic evidence of the Brew Boys festivities attached.
Axel
--------
Kevin Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313836#313836
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hans_and_john_475.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hans_kevin_and_john_209.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | More mag problems |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Well, yesterday I decided to fly over (19 mi.) to Skysoaring glider club
field as they were having an open house picnic. Got about half way there
and the engine started running rough. Turned for home, checked the mags
(already had checked them earlier) and the engine went dead when I witche
d to R, so I let it run on L. Still was running quite rough and I thought
I was going to be joining the ranks of those crank snap'n corvairs in a
bean field. Somehow made it back snorting and coughing. Landed safe and
the engine quit. Had to get my tractor and tow it back to the hangar. Tur
ned the engine through and I noticed that could not hear the left mag's im
pulse at all. This means that either the impulse is broken, or the mag is
not turning at all. Probably the latter since no sparks from that one. I
was so discouraged that I closed the hangar door and came inside for the
rest of the day. Not a good day. How can both mags fail on the same fligh
t? Can you please tell me????? GRRRRR
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harvey Rule <harvey.rule(at)bell.net> |
| Subject: | More mag problems |
Ah yes=2CI have had this happen to me and when I talked to another pilot he
told me it had happened to him as well.It does happen on occasion that bot
h will go at the same time.
I sent both of mine away to Savage in California and had them overhauled an
d the guy told me that they were in real bad shape.Both of them.I guess bec
ause most of the time we get them overhauled at the same time and they are
both used at the same time it stands to reason that they should both go at
close to the same time.You were very lucky to make it back with out having
to land out in an emergency.
Subject: Pietenpol-List: More mag problems
Date: Mon=2C 27 Sep 2010 07:45:16 -0400
From: helspersew(at)aol.com
Well=2C yesterday I decided to fly over (19 mi.) to Skysoaring glider club
field as they were having an open house picnic. Got about half way there an
d the engine started running rough. Turned for home=2C checked the mags (al
ready had checked them earlier) and the engine went dead when I witched to
R=2C so I let it run on L. Still was running quite rough and I thought I wa
s going to be joining the ranks of those crank snap'n corvairs in a bean fi
eld. Somehow made it back snorting and coughing. Landed safe and the engine
quit. Had to get my tractor and tow it back to the hangar. Turned the engi
ne through and I noticed that could not hear the left mag's impulse at all.
This means that either the impulse is broken=2C or the mag is not turning
at all. Probably the latter since no sparks from that one. I was so discour
aged that I closed the hangar door and came inside for the rest of the day.
Not a good day. How can both mags fail on the same flight? Can you please
tell me????? GRRRRR
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove=2C IL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harvey Rule <harvey.rule(at)bell.net> |
| Subject: | More mag problems |
Another thing you should do is check all your plugs.I don't know about you
but I use regular automotive Champion plugs and they are like light bulbs
=2Cone minute they are fine the next they are junk.I wish i could get a cro
ss for aviation plugs but there is no such thing for my engine.
From: harvey.rule(at)bell.net
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: More mag problems
Date: Mon=2C 27 Sep 2010 12:51:49 +0000
Ah yes=2CI have had this happen to me and when I talked to another pilot he
told me it had happened to him as well.It does happen on occasion that bot
h will go at the same time.
I sent both of mine away to Savage in California and had them overhauled an
d the guy told me that they were in real bad shape.Both of them.I guess bec
ause most of the time we get them overhauled at the same time and they are
both used at the same time it stands to reason that they should both go at
close to the same time.You were very lucky to make it back with out having
to land out in an emergency.
Subject: Pietenpol-List: More mag problems
Date: Mon=2C 27 Sep 2010 07:45:16 -0400
From: helspersew(at)aol.com
Well=2C yesterday I decided to fly over (19 mi.) to Skysoaring glider club
field as they were having an open house picnic. Got about half way there an
d the engine started running rough. Turned for home=2C checked the mags (al
ready had checked them earlier) and the engine went dead when I witched to
R=2C so I let it run on L. Still was running quite rough and I thought I wa
s going to be joining the ranks of those crank snap'n corvairs in a bean fi
eld. Somehow made it back snorting and coughing. Landed safe and the engine
quit. Had to get my tractor and tow it back to the hangar. Turned the engi
ne through and I noticed that could not hear the left mag's impulse at all.
This means that either the impulse is broken=2C or the mag is not turning
at all. Probably the latter since no sparks from that one. I was so discour
aged that I closed the hangar door and came inside for the rest of the day.
Not a good day. How can both mags fail on the same flight? Can you please
tell me????? GRRRRR
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove=2C IL.
st" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
ttp://forums.matronics.com
=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Markle <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Am I a Redneck? |
I was probably home, you didn't have time to stop and say hello???
-----Original Message-----
>From: Jim Boyer <boyerjrb(at)comcast.net>
>Sent: Sep 26, 2010 7:50 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Am I a Redneck?
>
>
>Gary, I don't think you qualify. Its not hanging from a tree over a pickup up
on blocks with a coom dog sleeping under it. And I'll grampa isn't sitting in
a rocker with a beer in his hand either.
>Jim B.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net>
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Sent: Sunday, September 26, 2010 2:13:08 PM
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Am I a Redneck?
>
>
>List,
>
>
>
>They say that if you have an engine hanging from a tree, youre a redneck. How
about if you have an engine hanging from a beam in your garage?
>
>
>
>The attached picture is just before I loaded my engine back in my truck for next
weekends CC #18, in Livermore, CA. With any luck, Ill run that engine on a
test stand, with William Wynnes supervision!
>
>
>
>Gary Boothe
>Cool, Ca.
>Pietenpol
>WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
>Tail done,Fuselageon gear
>(20 ribs down)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TOM STINEMETZE" <TOMS(at)mcpcity.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Corvair Engine |
Pieti:
According to William Wynne the turbo version of the Corvair engine is not
suitable for aircraft use due to the RPM range that it has to run to get
the turbo working. That's in my 2004 version of the Corvair Conversion
manual. However, I have seen some references on his website (www.FlyCorvai
r.com) to a turbo conversion that he has done/is doing so I guess the
issue is not totally out of the question. The bottom line would probably
be that the turbo unit is not the one originally designed for the Corvair
by the Chevy folks.
Tom Stinemetze
N328X
>>> "Pieti Lowell" 9/26/2010 3:41 PM >>>
Has anyone seen or thought about the Turbo Corvair Engine, I had one that
I used in a swamp buggy, It had low compression cylinders , could use
standard fuel until I used the Turbo and had to use hi octane fuel to
prevent knocking,She sure cranked out HP.
Pieti Lowell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "amsafetyc(at)aol.com" <amsafetyc(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More mag problems |
Don't know Dan. Just happy you're home safe and ready to fight another day
John
Sent via DROID on Verizon Wireless
-----Original message-----
From: helspersew(at)aol.com
Sent: Mon, Sep 27, 2010 11:49:29 GMT+00:00
Subject: Pietenpol-List: More mag problems
Well, yesterday I decided to fly over (19 mi.) to Skysoaring glider club
field as they were having an open house picnic. Got about half way there and
the engine started running rough. Turned for home, checked the mags (already
had checked them earlier) and the engine went dead when I witched to R, so I
let it run on L. Still was running quite rough and I thought I was going to
be joining the ranks of those crank snap'n corvairs in a bean field. Somehow
made it back snorting and coughing. Landed safe and the engine quit. Had to
get my tractor and tow it back to the hangar. Turned the engine through and
I noticed that could not hear the left mag's impulse at all. This means that
either the impulse is broken, or the mag is not turning at all. Probably the
latter since no sparks from that one. I was so discouraged that I closed the
hangar door and came inside for the rest of the day. Not a good day. How can
both mags fail on the same flight? Can you please tell me????? GRRRRR
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More mag problems |
| From: | "Pieti Lowell" <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com> |
Dan:
I switched from Champions to AC & Autolite many years ago and never had a problem
, even with a single mag.
Pieti Lowell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313865#313865
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: the Brew boys get together was a happening thing |
| From: | hvandervoo(at)aol.com |
What happened to the Tiramisu ?
A few beers I was expecting to disappear but the cake got devoured.
I had a good time guys, thanks for coming by.
On the way back from Critter's lodge, I experienced flying through a small
rain shower.
It lasted all but 2 minutes but was a new experience for my Pietenpol.
Total trip was 3.5 hours round trip, not bad for a Saturday flight.
Hans
NX15KV
Waller, TX
-----Original Message-----
From: kevinpurtee <kevin.purtee(at)us.army.mil>
Sent: Sun, Sep 26, 2010 9:56 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: the Brew boys get together was a happening th
ing
mil>
It was a pleasure to meet John for the 1st time and to get to spend some
more
ime with Hans and Karen. Thanks to all of them for a really nice evening.
Also got to see Hans at the Critter's Lodge fly-in in Centerville, TX this
eekend (a wonderful outing). Two Corvair Piets at a small fly-in in centr
al
X. Lots of fun.
Photographic evidence of the Brew Boys festivities attached.
Axel
--------
evin Purtee
X899KP
ustin/Georgetown, TX
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313836#313836
ttachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hans_and_john_475.jpg
ttp://forums.matronics.com//files/hans_kevin_and_john_209.jpg
-========================
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-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
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-
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Startin' My Ribs- Tucker |
| From: | "Tucker" <Tucker(at)tuckerrice.net> |
Well Captain and I made up the rib jig, steam box, bending jig, and cut the gussets
so I'm finally ready to make some ribs. Here are pictures of our steam box
and jigs.
Today's my birthday, I'm finally a 13 year old teenager. Whoo Hoo!
--------
Tucker
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313889#313889
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0003_300.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0001_321.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Startin' My Ribs- Tucker |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
Happy Birthday Tucker! Thanks for the update on your Piet project, keep up the
good work. Hopefully you will have it done in time to solo it on your 16th birthday!
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313924#313924
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More mag problems |
Dan, did the engine overheat?- If both mags quit turning, the drive gear
(for the mags)might have come apart.- Check the whole thing over really g
ood,- and when you get it fixed, fly it over your home airfield for 5-10
hrs to verify it is fixed.- Our- engine problems got us right when we w
ere done with our 40 hr test phase (about 59 hrs to be exact).- Stick wit
h it, You'll get it figured out.- Remember these are experimental aircraf
t, it is a learning experiance, so try to enjoy the whole project (even the
down times).
-
If I make brodhead next year, I am certain I will see your piet there,
-
Shad=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | johnwoods(at)westnet.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: Startin' My Ribs- Tucker |
I see a few of the rib jigs are using a cam wheel to hold the top and bottom sticks
to the rib out line.
I did the same, however I installed all the cams on the inside of the rib so as
to push the sticks out against the perimeter jig blocks.
This way you are sure all the ribs will have the same outside contour line irrespective
of variations in stick thickness.
Does that make sense?
Regards,
JohnW
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tucker" <Tucker(at)tuckerrice.net>
Sent: Tuesday, 28 September, 2010 2:19:21 AM GMT +08:00 Beijing / Chongqing / Hong
Kong / Urumqi
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Startin' My Ribs- Tucker
Well Captain and I made up the rib jig, steam box, bending jig, and cut the gussets
so I'm finally ready to make some ribs. Here are pictures of our steam box
and jigs.
Today's my birthday, I'm finally a 13 year old teenager. Whoo Hoo!
--------
Tucker
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313889#313889
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0003_300.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0001_321.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plans and books for sale |
| From: | "GliderMike" <glidermikeg(at)yahoo.com> |
Brian and his brother bought everything except my Piet plans, and the Corvair maintenance/builders
manual. I felt like a candy store owner with a store full
of kids. I hated to part with the books and videos, but I am sure Brian and
his brother will make good use of them. It feels like that little bit of financial
help (along with selling a ski lift ticket voucher today that was left from
last year) relieved enough stress, that I think I will keep the plans, and
Corvair build manual. The only regrets I have in life, have to do with parting
company with various aircraft I have owned over the years. It feels like
my Piet plans, and Corvair build manual are an aircraft and its powerplant I own,
that isn't quite totally materialized yet. Thanks everyone for your concern
and prayers.
--------
HOMEBUILDER
Will WORK for Spruce
Long flights, smooth air, and soft landings,
GliderMike, aka Mike Glasgow
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313955#313955
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Startin' My Ribs- Tucker |
It does make sense. However, if you put the cams on the outside
pushing in so as to have consistent location of the inside of the
upper and lower capstrips you can then cut your diagonals and uprights
en masse, since you know the distance between the capstrips on the
inside is all the same.
The minute difference in thickness of the various pieces of capstrip
material will not make a difference once they are on the wing and
covered.
With all that being said, the best method to use is the one that gets
you completed airworthy ribs the quickest!
Ryan
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 27, 2010, at 9:34 PM, "johnwoods(at)westnet.com.au"
wrote:
>
> I see a few of the rib jigs are using a cam wheel to hold the top and bottom
sticks to the rib out line.
> I did the same, however I installed all the cams on the inside of the rib so
as to push the sticks out against the perimeter jig blocks.
> This way you are sure all the ribs will have the same outside contour line irrespective
of variations in stick thickness.
> Does that make sense?
>
> Regards,
> JohnW
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tucker" <Tucker(at)tuckerrice.net>
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, 28 September, 2010 2:19:21 AM GMT +08:00 Beijing / Chongqing /
Hong Kong / Urumqi
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Startin' My Ribs- Tucker
>
>
> Well Captain and I made up the rib jig, steam box, bending jig, and cut the gussets
so I'm finally ready to make some ribs. Here are pictures of our steam
box and jigs.
>
> Today's my birthday, I'm finally a 13 year old teenager. Whoo Hoo!
>
> --------
> Tucker
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313889#313889
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0003_300.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0001_321.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Plans and books for sale |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
Good luck!
----------
MISANTHROPE
Will DERIDE YOU for free
Beautiful sunsets, long walks on the beach, brats on the grill, gas in the
air,
OnlyAsshatsGiveThemselvesNicknamesRyan, aka Ryan Mueller
;)
On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 10:26 PM, GliderMike wrote:
>
> Brian and his brother bought everything except my Piet plans, and the
> Corvair maintenance/builders manual. I felt like a candy store owner with a
> store full of kids. I hated to part with the books and videos, but I am
> sure Brian and his brother will make good use of them. It feels like that
> little bit of financial help (along with selling a ski lift ticket voucher
> today that was left from last year) relieved enough stress, that I think I
> will keep the plans, and Corvair build manual. The only regrets I have in
> life, have to do with parting company with various aircraft I have owned
> over the years. It feels like my Piet plans, and Corvair build manual are
> an aircraft and its powerplant I own, that isn't quite totally materialized
> yet. Thanks everyone for your concern and prayers.ll
>
> --------
> HOMEBUILDER
> Will WORK for Spruce
> Long flights, smooth air, and soft landings,
> GliderMike, aka Mike Glasgow
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313955#313955
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack" <jack(at)textors.com> |
| Subject: | Encoder Installation |
Was wondering where others located their encoders. Close to transponder, or
static source? My Trans-Cal manual says it should be as close as possible
to the altimeter. Since I'm mounting my transponder in the center section,
I would rather run the static line down through the struts rather than the
large wire bundle. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Jack
DSM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave Sornborger" <dsornbor(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Corvair for building |
Howdy,I have a Corvair engine stripped for building.Went with an O-235
Correct # block,heads,crank,all parts required to keep according to WW
manual,also new unused and unregistered WW conversion manual.Email me
if interested.Can send pictures.69 block and cyls-68 heads all parts
look to be in good shape.Dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More mag problems |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Hi Shad,
No, the engine did not overheat. The crank drive mag seems to be turning
fine, but the one driven from the cam gear is not. If the cam gear fell
apart then the camshaft would stop turning. I don't think it was that or
the engine would have not run at all. Still haven't looked at it. I won't
have time to look at it for about 2 weeks. I'll report in when I find out
. Thanks for the encouragement.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Mon, Sep 27, 2010 7:21 pm
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: More mag problems
Dan, did the engine overheat? If both mags quit turning, the drive gear
(for the mags)might have come apart. Check the whole thing over really
good, and when you get it fixed, fly it over your home airfield for 5-10
hrs to verify it is fixed. Our engine problems got us right when we wer
e done with our 40 hr test phase (about 59 hrs to be exact). Stick with
it, You'll get it figured out. Remember these are experimental aircraft,
it is a learning experiance, so try to enjoy the whole project (even the
down times).
If I make brodhead next year, I am certain I will see your piet there,
Shad
========================
===========
-= - The Pietenpol-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
========================
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Encoder Installation |
I put mine right next to the transponder, in the centersection
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jack
Sent: Tuesday, September 28, 2010 6:27 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Encoder Installation
Was wondering where others located their encoders. Close to transponder, or
static source? My Trans-Cal manual says it should be as close as possible
to the altimeter. Since I'm mounting my transponder in the center section,
I would rather run the static line down through the struts rather than the
large wire bundle. Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Jack
DSM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: More mag problems |
| From: | "bender" <jfaith(at)solairusaviation.com> |
So the only "PMA" "aircraft" parts are the ones giving you problems ??
Sorry Dan...... were the mags new? I would have thought one mag would have done
OK
Jeff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313976#313976
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Markle <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Shad flying back home... |
Neat picture of a REAL airplane departing from Lee Bottom...
http://web.me.com/shelbysmith/EAA_162/Lee_Bottom_2010.html#81
There are some other good pictures on that website of the Bell's Air Camper...
Very nice....I am really jealous!
jm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Shad flying back home... |
| From: | "bender" <jfaith(at)solairusaviation.com> |
Hey Shad.. it looked great
I was the long hair that was all over your plane when you landed... wanted to say
hello but you were surrounded pretty quick... i noticed you on the upwind leg..
recognized the piet and watched for you to park.
I was in my 120..from lee bottom i took it to danville KY to its new home.
I start building in the next few weeks.
If you've never been to Lee Bottom you are missing a great fly in
jeff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313979#313979
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jeff wilson <jlwilsonnn(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Encoder Installation |
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PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09Cgo
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Rambo <generambo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: More mag problems |
two shouldn't go at the same time. Start looking at things in common=2C li
ke the mag switch. Also=2C is it possible you have an engine problem like
a blown head gasaket that might have fouled plugs?
Gene
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: More mag problems
> From: jfaith(at)solairusaviation.com
> Date: Tue=2C 28 Sep 2010 05:20:50 -0700
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>
om>
>
> So the only "PMA" "aircraft" parts are the ones giving you problems ??
> Sorry Dan...... were the mags new? I would have thought one mag would hav
e done OK
>
> Jeff
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313976#313976
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Skip Gadd" <skipgadd(at)earthlink.net> |
Larry,
I think Grega left the cross bracing cables in place is because his
diagonal brace are small and light tube, 1/2"X.032 I think. Also he just
has a small strap wrapped around the top of the cabane (not welded) to
attach the diagonal brace to. Most Piet guys take the cross bracing cables
out after they get the wing location set. Hopefully they use heaver tube
for the diagonal brace and weld the fitting to the top of the cabane. Your
diagonal braces look a little bigger than the braces on my GN-1. If you
have any second thoughts I would put cross braces in.
Skip
>
> That reminds me. It finally dawned on me that the GN-1 that I bought is
the only one I've ever seen w/out the cross bracing cables that crisscross
between the wing struts.
> Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Startin' My Ribs- Tucker |
Actually, it doesn't matter much. Once all the ribs are built, you will
need to stack them on a couple of short pieces of spar material and then
sand them all together with a long sanding block to make sure they are all
absolutely uniform.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
johnwoods(at)westnet.com.au
Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 10:34 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Startin' My Ribs- Tucker
I see a few of the rib jigs are using a cam wheel to hold the top and bottom
sticks to the rib out line.
I did the same, however I installed all the cams on the inside of the rib so
as to push the sticks out against the perimeter jig blocks.
This way you are sure all the ribs will have the same outside contour line
irrespective of variations in stick thickness.
Does that make sense?
Regards,
JohnW
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tucker" <Tucker(at)tuckerrice.net>
Sent: Tuesday, 28 September, 2010 2:19:21 AM GMT +08:00 Beijing / Chongqing
/ Hong Kong / Urumqi
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Startin' My Ribs- Tucker
Well Captain and I made up the rib jig, steam box, bending jig, and cut the
gussets so I'm finally ready to make some ribs. Here are pictures of our
steam box and jigs.
Today's my birthday, I'm finally a 13 year old teenager. Whoo Hoo!
--------
Tucker
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313889#313889
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0003_300.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0001_321.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Startin' My Ribs- Tucker |
My jig is more like Tucker's. I put the fixed, rectangular blocks on the outside
of the curvature and the cams on the inside. So on the bottom reflexed area,
the cams are on the outside of the rib. I think it's like Ryan said, probably
won't make a difference in the long run.
Ken
On Sep 27, 2010, at 7:34 PM, johnwoods(at)westnet.com.au wrote:
>
> I see a few of the rib jigs are using a cam wheel to hold the top and bottom
sticks to the rib out line.
> I did the same, however I installed all the cams on the inside of the rib so
as to push the sticks out against the perimeter jig blocks.
> This way you are sure all the ribs will have the same outside contour line irrespective
of variations in stick thickness.
> Does that make sense?
>
> Regards,
> JohnW
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tucker" <Tucker(at)tuckerrice.net>
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, 28 September, 2010 2:19:21 AM GMT +08:00 Beijing / Chongqing /
Hong Kong / Urumqi
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Startin' My Ribs- Tucker
>
>
> Well Captain and I made up the rib jig, steam box, bending jig, and cut the gussets
so I'm finally ready to make some ribs. Here are pictures of our steam
box and jigs.
>
> Today's my birthday, I'm finally a 13 year old teenager. Whoo Hoo!
>
> --------
> Tucker
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313889#313889
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0003_300.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0001_321.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kip and Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
Skip,
I think what everyone is talking about here are the wires that brace
the lift struts, not the ones between the right side cabanes that can
be replaced by the forward diagonal brace. It seems that this plane
has been flying without the lift strut wires - I would not think that
that is a reasonable proposition, to put it mildly. Also makes me
wonder if this plane has jury struts?
Kip Gardner
On Sep 28, 2010, at 10:04 AM, Skip Gadd wrote:
>
>
> Larry,
> I think Grega left the cross bracing cables in place is because his
> diagonal brace are small and light tube, 1/2"X.032 I think. Also he
> just
> has a small strap wrapped around the top of the cabane (not welded) to
> attach the diagonal brace to. Most Piet guys take the cross bracing
> cables
> out after they get the wing location set. Hopefully they use heaver
> tube
> for the diagonal brace and weld the fitting to the top of the
> cabane. Your
> diagonal braces look a little bigger than the braces on my GN-1. If
> you
> have any second thoughts I would put cross braces in.
> Skip
>
>
>>
>> That reminds me. It finally dawned on me that the GN-1 that I
>> bought is
> the only one I've ever seen w/out the cross bracing cables that
> crisscross
> between the wing struts.
>> Larry
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TriScout" <apfelcyber(at)yahoo.com> |
Yeah... it's lacking the cables that criss cross between the lift struts. I already
bought the 'tangs' (that the strut attach bolts go thru) from AS&S for the
cables I will install. I was thinking that stainless flying wires might be better/stronger....
until I saw the pricing on it. Anything (cable) would be better
than nothing.. I hope..
Larry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313999#313999
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Skip Gadd" <skipgadd(at)earthlink.net> |
My goof! Now I understand why someone said they would not fly a Piet
without them.
Skip
> Yeah... it's lacking the cables that criss cross between the lift struts.
I already bought the 'tangs' (that the strut attach bolts go thru) from
AS&S for the cables I will install. I was thinking that stainless flying
wires might be better/stronger.... until I saw the pricing on it. Anything
(cable) would be better than nothing.. I hope..
>
> Larry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KM Heide CPO/FAAOP <kmheidecpo(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Corvair Engine |
Hey Tom,
-
Great talking to you last night! I look forward to visiting with you and bu
ilding these beautiful airplanes.
-
I finished the layout of the fuse sides last night and decided to utilize t
he shorter version of the fuse as listed in the Flyer and Glider Manual. Wi
th my weight I have taken note from others the plane tends to be tail heavy
if usig the long fuse.
I will be applying glue this Saturday after returning back from my conferen
ce to Orlando. I have- a new tail wheel from Aircraft Spruce which should
work very well.
I am going to study the tail section as I like the squareness of the stabil
izer you pointed out. I believe the cross pieces in the improved design are
a better stronger layout. Otherwise everything else is the same.
-
As the fuse glue drys for a few days, I will probably start cutting my rib
parts. Remember, a paper cutter works great for cutting the plywood gussett
s (if you are using the square design)
-
Ken Heide
PO Box 1026
814 Elizabeth Street
Hawley, MN 56549
-
cell 701-793-3030
work 701-433-3198
--- On Sun, 9/26/10, tdudley(at)umn.edu wrote:
From: tdudley(at)umn.edu <tdudley(at)umn.edu>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Corvair Engine
Date: Sunday, September 26, 2010, 4:08 PM
KM,
I'm in Alexandria, MN and would be interested in maybe meeting with both yo
u and Vern.- I'm early in my build (started building ribs a week ago and
have five done) but I'm interested in the Corvair engine.- Let me know.
Tom
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=313797#313797
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dangerous Dave" <dsornbor(at)aol.com> |
Stainless cable can be wrapped using the proper flux,For the extra $40 I'd rather
have real aircraft stainless its cheaper than a coffin.Stainless is FAA PMA
certified as is galvanized.You have yearly inspections,part of that is cable
inspection,all cables wear out.Replace as needed.The recommended cable sizes ie
3/32 for everything but the elevator and 1/8 for the elevator is what is required
no more no less.If any aircraft cable broke from going around a recommended
bend radius it would never get an FAA PMA stamp.If you use certified parts
you may have a bit less money,if you don't someone might use the money you saved
for your funeral.Being cheap is always more costly.
--------
Building a Piet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314046#314046
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "coxwelljon" <coxwelljon(at)frontiernet.net> |
chiefpepperhead(at)hotmai wrote:
> Someone else pipe up here if Im wrong, but I have no idea what would keep the
wing from twisting around the vertical axis relative to the fuselage. With the
configuration of a Piet or a GN-1 and parallel lift struts it would appear to
me that you would have to have the cross bracing. Other designs get around this
of course by the "V" configuration of the lift struts.
>
>
My GN-1 plans clearly show the cables between the struts on the assembled 3d drawing.
Jon Coxwell
--------
Jon Coxwell
GN-1 Builder
Recycle and preserve the planet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314055#314055
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "coxwelljon" <coxwelljon(at)frontiernet.net> |
TriScout wrote:
> Yeah... it's lacking the cables that criss cross between the lift struts. I already
bought the 'tangs' (that the strut attach bolts go thru) from AS&S for
the cables I will install. I was thinking that stainless flying wires might be
better/stronger.... until I saw the pricing on it. Anything (cable) would be
better than nothing.. I hope..
>
> Larry
Dillsburg Airplane works has aircraft cables for about 1/2 the price of Aircraft
Spruce. They are lubed as well. I am using 3/32" 7x19 galv. for all control
cables and 1/8" 7x19 galv. for flying wires. Dillsburg does not have a website
so you have to call for price. They will send you a price list.
Jon Coxwell
--------
Jon Coxwell
GN-1 Builder
Recycle and preserve the planet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314056#314056
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | turnbuckles & blasting cabinet. |
| From: | "coxwelljon" <coxwelljon(at)frontiernet.net> |
I've just been lurking for awhile, but have made some progress that I thought I
would share. (Building / rebuilding a GN-1 project.)
The turn buckles in my project were huge. Our local DAR suggested they were good
for a 737. I'll bet I have 10# if turnbuckles. I decided to change them all
and looked at the AS price. Long story short I decided to build my own. I
saw a great light weight turnbuckle at Broadhead and decided to copy them with
some changes. Built a prototype and tested it today. I put 1250 pounds tension
until I reached the yield point of my testing beam and no damage to the turnbuckle.
The prototype has 3/8" brass barrel and 3/16" ends with loop ends
which are braised. I am going to try stainless steel ends but fabrication may
be more difficult. I plan on about 20 of them if my count is correct and I have
about $100 which includes 10/32 right and left hand taps and dies, in material
which will make twice that number. Clevises will be from used M-cycle chain
side plates held together with 10/32 AN bolts. Photos attached. Lots of time
but certainly some cost savings.
Another project which may be of interest is the sand blasting cabinet I made from
scrap odds and ends in the shop. I have $20 in it for a light and rubber gloves
the rest was stuff I had laying around. I think one could build one for
under $50 buying all new plus a $15 sand blasting gun from Harbor freight.
The sand runs out into a 5 gal bucket through a boot made of house wrap, and is
reused through a plastic tube connected to the gun. Needs 80 PSI to work with
my gun and I need to stop every 10 min. to let the home made compressor catch
up. I built it to allow longer tubes to be fed in one end and out the other.
Does a great job of cleaning up welds and taking off minor rust. Photos attached
--------
Jon Coxwell
GN-1 Builder
Recycle and preserve the planet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314062#314062
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img00279_141.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img00278_126.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img00277_145.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img00290_721.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img00288_177.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img00292_403.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img00294_197.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: turnbuckles & blasting cabinet. |
| From: | "899PM" <rockriverrifle(at)hotmail.com> |
Jon,
I am interested in the entire lot of your "HUGE" turnbuckles for another project
if they might be for sale? E-mail me at "aeromarine39(at)yahoo.com"
Mike C
--------
PAPA MIKE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314076#314076
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pineymb" <airltd(at)mts.net> |
Currently experimenting with a toe brake setup but not having a lot of luck with
the structural integrity of my first attempt as the pedal will bend under foot
pressure required to lock up the wheels. Got the idea from a picture I saw
on a Piet builders site. I elected to go with 6061 but in hindsight wandering
if 4130 would be better. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
--------
Adrian M
Winnipeg, MB
Canada
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314080#314080
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00149_603.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00153_188.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Markle <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
Wow, I think it looks really good. And thanks for including some of the surrounding
area in the pics...that's some nice work you've done there.
I would do just what you've done but move the pad out a bit more. That would allow
you to put not quite so much pressure on the pad area to result in an equal
force at the cylinder. Extending the lever arm will give you a better mechanical
advantage.
And I would stick with 6061, DON'T rebuild of that part with 4130!)
Then of course weld up anything you can get to....
I would also decrease the actual size of the pad. If you put pressure on the outer
part of that pad when you step on it you are introducing a bending force
around the lever arm. Don't need that....and a smaller pad would probably still
work just fine. It's not like these surfaces get used continually. And a
smaller area would help eliminate some of that bending force around the lever
attach point. Maybe even center a smaller pad.
There's no telling if any of the above jives with "real" stress analysis. And
I'm sure the engineering expertise on this list will be able to help a lot more
than I ever could....but that's the way I see it....
JM
-----Original Message-----
>From: pineymb <airltd(at)mts.net>
>Sent: Sep 29, 2010 7:19 AM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Toe Brakes
>
>
>Currently experimenting with a toe brake setup but not having a lot of luck with
the structural integrity of my first attempt as the pedal will bend under foot
pressure required to lock up the wheels. Got the idea from a picture I saw
on a Piet builders site. I elected to go with 6061 but in hindsight wandering
if 4130 would be better. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>
>--------
>Adrian M
>Winnipeg, MB
>Canada
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314080#314080
>
>
>Attachments:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00149_603.jpg
>http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00153_188.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Well put. I concur.
Michael Perez
=0AKaretaker Aero
=0Awww.karetakeraero.com
--- On Tue, 9/28/10, Dangerous Dave wrote:
From: Dangerous Dave <dsornbor(at)aol.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: cables
Date: Tuesday, September 28, 2010, 8:56 PM
Stainless cable can be wrapped using the proper flux,For the extra $40 I'd
rather have real aircraft stainless its cheaper than a coffin.Stainless is
FAA PMA certified as is galvanized.You have yearly inspections,part of that
is cable inspection,all cables wear out.Replace as needed.The recommended
cable sizes ie 3/32 for everything but the elevator and 1/8 for the elevato
r is what is required no more no less.If any aircraft cable broke from goin
g around a recommended bend radius it would never get an FAA PMA stamp.If y
ou use certified parts you may have a bit less money,if you don't someone m
ight use the money you saved for your funeral.Being cheap is always more co
stly.
--------
Building a Piet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314046#314046
le, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gtche98" <garywilson213(at)yahoo.com> |
My structural engineering experience consists solely of using the TLAR method,
but it seems like you could put a bend in the arm coming down to the pedal, below
where it is fixed to the cylinder, such that it meets the pedal closer to
the middle of the pedal. That way your foot force would be transferred more directly
to the arm.
Of course, I am sure that someone on the list that actually knows what they are
doing will give you excellent reasons why you wouldn't want to do that... :D
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314096#314096
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
Made my "Bill Rewey" toe brakes using 4130. Not that much weight to be saved
using AL.
rick
On Wed, Sep 29, 2010 at 6:19 AM, pineymb wrote:
>
> Currently experimenting with a toe brake setup but not having a lot of luck
> with the structural integrity of my first attempt as the pedal will bend
> under foot pressure required to lock up the wheels. Got the idea from a
> picture I saw on a Piet builders site. I elected to go with 6061 but in
> hindsight wandering if 4130 would be better. Any thoughts or suggestions
> would be greatly appreciated.
>
> --------
> Adrian M
> Winnipeg, MB
> Canada
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314080#314080
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00149_603.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00153_188.jpg
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "AlRice" <Allen(at)allenrice.net> |
I'm not a structural engineer either- just a builder. You did a really nice design
with great welding using aluminum but I think that you should use 4130.
I've built a Skybolt and an RV-9A and all the mounts/brackets/tabs/pads etc. are
steel. Unlike steel welds, aluminum welds are weaker than the base material
resulting in cracks.
--------
Al Rice
Skybolt 260
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314098#314098
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TriScout" <apfelcyber(at)yahoo.com> |
On that previous post, I was thinking that perhaps the hard steel (non-flexible,
chrome) flying wires would be best(until I saw the price), like the old PT-22's
have, but I'll definately get the aircraft quality 'cables' from AS&S...
never the non-aviation type cables. I like the fact that everything on this GN-1
is AN hardware, etc. I wish to keep it that way..
Also, I was looking for a bedtime story last night and read the Airframe log. There
is an entry in there in the late 80's, or 90's that proves the cables were
once indeed installed, as it is written that they were inspected and tightened.
The actual airframe time is 684hrs, since the zero time tach was installed
when it was built in 1980...all time accounted for in log...
In May 17, 2000 (N2308C-NTSB.gov), the machine was involved in a takeoff mishap.
The gentleman I purchased the airframe from bought the wreck and rebuilt it.
It appears that 'said cables' were overlooked at this time. He only put a couple
of hours on aircraft since rebuild before I bought it. He took engine off
of airframe to use in an Aeronca he's restoring. He mainly restores Stearmans
and wasn't too impressed w/the tiny little cockpit and lack of sensitivity on
the ailerons after the rebuild.. so he said he never flew it much. It was pretty
much the red-headed stepchild of the hangar. That's where I came in .. I saw
it on Barnstormers for 8.5k..no engine..offered him 6k sight unseen, so he said
come and get it outta here. He loves fabric work and restoring old aircraft/wrecks..
Larry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314101#314101
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "pineymb" <airltd(at)mts.net> |
Thanks everyone for your input, was greatly appreciated and so took some advise
from you guys and came up with a new design which appears like it will work.
Trial fitted and tested now has to come all apart and sent out for powder coat.
Rick I especially like you setup, simple and clean, just not sure I could get my
size twelve shoe in there.
--------
Adrian M
Winnipeg, MB
Canada
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314144#314144
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00197_159.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00193_191.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Dever <chiefpepperhead(at)hotmail.com> |
That was me. I'm scrathin' my head over why an A & P wouldn't kmow better.
Oh well=2C at least we saved a person from unknowingly getting in it and
trying to fly it.
Doug Dever
In beautiful Stow Ohio
> From: skipgadd(at)earthlink.net
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: cables
> Date: Tue=2C 28 Sep 2010 12:12:37 -0400
>
>
>
> My goof! Now I understand why someone said they would not fly a Piet
> without them.
> Skip
>
> > Yeah... it's lacking the cables that criss cross between the lift strut
s.
> I already bought the 'tangs' (that the strut attach bolts go thru) from
> AS&S for the cables I will install. I was thinking that stainless flying
> wires might be better/stronger.... until I saw the pricing on it. Anythin
g
> (cable) would be better than nothing.. I hope..
> >
> > Larry
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "carson" <carsonvella(at)yahoo.com.au> |
Thanks for the replies I have got it sorted turns out that it is a type 1 ring
Carson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314162#314162
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | BIG problems- Model A wth dual mags |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Well, as I told you previously, during last Sunday's flight, I experienced
a rough-running engine with mag problems. I have about 20 hours total on
my engine. I was flying my Piet for about a half hour, when the engine st
arted running rough. I checked the mags, and the left mag was dead (the on
e driven off the aluminum cam gear), so I made it home on the right mag (c
rank driven), but even so, the engine was rough and sputtering. Today I fi
nally had a chance to investigate. I removed the (alum cam gear driven) ma
g, and discovered that all the teeth on the aluminum cam drive gear have
either sheared-off (and/or broken-off). Only the section of the tooth tha
t drives the mag sheered-off. The other half of the teeth are still there
(so at this point I think the camshaft was still turning). The removed ma
gneto (new Slick) seems to turn freely, with no visible sign of any proble
m. The engine itself turns freely with no abnormal noises. I can hear the
impulse clicking normally on the crank-driven mag.
Defective (soft) aluminum cam gear? This is the only thing I can think of
without further examination and thought. Ideas???
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
BTW Praise God I made it home
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | airlion <airlion(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BIG problems- Model A wth dual mags |
Dan, I think it is time to consider a corvair. Hey, I have been there too when
my engine was running rough with very little power. In my case it was the plug
wires. I hope you can fix it. Gardiner
________________________________
From: "helspersew(at)aol.com" <helspersew(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wed, September 29, 2010 6:35:10 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: BIG problems- Model A wth dual mags
Well, as I told you previously, during last Sunday's flight, I experienced a
rough-running engine with mag problems. I have about 20 hours total on my
engine. I was flying my Piet for about a half hour, when the engine started
running rough. I checked the mags, and the left mag was dead (the one driven off
the aluminum cam gear), so I made it home on the right mag (crank driven), but
even so, the engine was rough and sputtering. Today I finally had a chance to
investigate. I removed the (alum cam gear driven) mag, and discovered that all
the teeth on the aluminum cam drive gear have either sheared-off (and/or
broken-off). Only the section of the tooth that drives the mag sheered-off. The
other half of the teeth are still there (so at this point I think the camshaft
was still turning). The removed magneto (new Slick) seems to turn freely, with
no visible sign of any problem. The engine itself turns freely with no abnormal
noises. I can hear the impulse clicking normally on the crank-driven mag.
Defective (soft) aluminum cam gear? This is the only thing I can think of
without further examination and thought. Ideas???
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
BTW Praise God I made it home
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BIG problems- Model A wth dual mags |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
Dan,
Possibly the cam gear could have been defective, but also consider that the magneto
gear might not have been properly meshing with the cam gear. If there was
too much or too little clearance between the teeth of the gears, that could
acount for the accelerated wear. Is there an iron camshaft gear available? Is
there a way to check/ adjust the lash between the gears when everything is fully
assembled? Are both the magneto drive gear and the cam gear of the same
pitch? Is any form of lubrication provided to the interface of the cam and magneto
gears?
Your presumption that the cam was still turning is correct, for if the cam is not
turning, your engine will NOT run. Thankfully you had dual ignition and that
the remaining mag got you back home. God was obviously looking out for you!
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314173#314173
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <r.r.hall(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BIG problems- Model A wth dual mags |
Question 1 would be where did the aluminum from those gear teeth go? I hope
it isn't in the oil system now. You might also check the
Cam to crankshaft gear. It may have jumped a tooth or broken a tooth which
caused the problem with the Magneto drive gear.
I am not familiar with the Model A so these ideas are just based on my gene
ral engine knowledge.
Rodney
---- helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
>Well, as I told you previously, during last Sunday's flight, I experienced
a rough-running engine with mag problems. =C2-I have about 20 hours tota
l on my engine. I was flying my Piet for about a half hour, when the engine
started running rough. I checked the mags, and the left mag was dead (the
one driven off the aluminum cam gear), so I made it home on the right mag (
crank driven), but even so, the engine was rough and sputtering. Today I fi
nally had a chance to investigate. I removed the (alum cam gear driven) mag
, and discovered that all the teeth on the aluminum cam drive gear have eit
her=C2-sheared-off (and/or broken-off). Only the section of the tooth tha
t drives the mag sheered-off. The other half of the teeth are still there (
so at this point I think the camshaft was still turning). The removed magne
to (new Slick) seems to turn freely, with no visible sign of any problem. T
he engine itself turns freely with no abnormal noises. I can hear the impul
se clicking normally on the crank-driven mag.=C2-Defective (soft) aluminu
m cam gear? This is the only thing I can think of without further examinati
on and thought. Ideas???=C2-Dan HelsperPoplar Grove, IL.=C2-BTW Praise
God I made it home
=====================
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kip and Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: BIG problems- Model A wth dual mags |
Dan,
I'm no expert, but I'd guess this goes deeper than a defective gear.
Sounds like something is out of alignment or there's a clearance out
of spec.
Kip Gardner
On Sep 29, 2010, at 6:35 PM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
> Well, as I told you previously, during last Sunday's flight, I
> experienced a rough-running engine with mag problems. I have about
> 20 hours total on my engine. I was flying my Piet for about a half
> hour, when the engine started running rough. I checked the mags,
> and the left mag was dead (the one driven off the aluminum cam
> gear), so I made it home on the right mag (crank driven), but even
> so, the engine was rough and sputtering. Today I finally had a
> chance to investigate. I removed the (alum cam gear driven) mag,
> and discovered that all the teeth on the aluminum cam drive gear
> have either sheared-off (and/or broken-off). Only the section of
> the tooth that drives the mag sheered-off. The other half of the
> teeth are still there (so at this point I think the camshaft was
> still turning). The removed magneto (new Slick) seems to turn
> freely, with no visible sign of any problem. The engine itself
> turns freely with no abnormal noises. I can hear the impulse
> clicking normally on the crank-driven mag.
>
> Defective (soft) aluminum cam gear? This is the only thing I can
> think of without further examination and thought. Ideas???
>
> Dan Helsper
> Poplar Grove, IL.
>
> BTW Praise God I made it home
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
>From the Bill Rewey plans.
On Wed, Sep 29, 2010 at 2:27 PM, pineymb wrote:
>
> Thanks everyone for your input, was greatly appreciated and so took some
> advise from you guys and came up with a new design which appears like it
> will work. Trial fitted and tested now has to come all apart and sent out
> for powder coat.
> Rick I especially like you setup, simple and clean, just not sure I could
> get my size twelve shoe in there.
>
> --------
> Adrian M
> Winnipeg, MB
> Canada
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314144#314144
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00197_159.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00193_191.jpg
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: turnbuckles & blasting cabinet. |
| From: | "coxwelljon" <coxwelljon(at)frontiernet.net> |
899PM wrote:
> Jon,
>
> I am interested in the entire lot of your "HUGE" turnbuckles for another project
if they might be for sale? E-mail me at "aeromarine39(at)yahoo.com"
>
> Mike C
Thanks for the offer, Mike. I won't be getting rid of them until I have things
pretty well assembled which may be months.
--------
Jon Coxwell
GN-1 Builder
Recycle and preserve the planet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314186#314186
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BIG problems- Model A wth dual mags |
| From: | "Pieti Lowell" <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com> |
Dan:
For what it is worth, I use a bronze cam gear with steel crank and mag drive gears
that also drive a fuel pump.
I have cam bronze bearings and keep the cam from moving fore and aft with an adjustable
bronze screw at the driven end. If the cam can move for and aft it will
put undue wear on the cam gear.
This engine has gone through hell and back, In 1998 I flew it from Oshkosh to Palmyra
with only a quart of water in the cooling system upon arrival Palmyra,
Or one hours flight, It Dieseled upon shut down, over 212 Deg, F The next day
I flew to Brodhead and later back to Palmyra.The engine has never failed to this
day and is still pulling over over 80 HP.
After disassembled completely it was perfect.
Pieti Lowell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314189#314189
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: turnbuckles & blasting cabinet. |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
Jon,
What material did you make the eye ends from, and did you undercut the middle of
the shank on a lathe? And for the barrels, did you start with round stock or
with hex-shaped brass stock? I appreciate any details you can provide.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314192#314192
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TOM STINEMETZE" <TOMS(at)mcpcity.com> |
Adrian:
Before you spend the money to have those power coated, sit in the pilot's
seat with a passenger in the front and see if you can operate the rudder
bar without moving the brake pedal. I tried that and ended up having to
narrow my pedals to about 1" or I could not keep from operating the brakes
and still be able to move the rudder. (I know from experience that you do
not want to land with your feet on the brakes.)
Tom Stinemetze
N328X
>>> "pineymb" 9/29/2010 3:27 PM >>>
Thanks everyone for your input, was greatly appreciated and so took some
advise from you guys and came up with a new design which appears like it
will work. Trial fitted and tested now has to come all apart and sent out
for powder coat.
Rick I especially like you setup, simple and clean, just not sure I could
get my size twelve shoe in there.
--------
Adrian M
Winnipeg, MB
Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: BIG problems- Model A wth dual mags |
Unfortunatly, Dan I would say tear it all down and rebuild her.- Debris l
ikely is all through the engine.- I believe A's are pretty much a splash
lube, or at least a very low oil pressure engine, correct?- But the teeth
of that gear and the particals from the grinding could be anywhere in bear
ings etc.- It's one of those situations where slow is fast, and more time
equals more saftey.- Get started on it before it gets cold up there, and
you'll be done before it gets warm again.- And just from some experiance
, Ignore all the nay sayers, persistance = perservereance.-
-
Shad=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BIG problems- Model A wth dual mags |
| From: | "899PM" <rockriverrifle(at)hotmail.com> |
Dan,
When you put the engine together did you drill the cam gear for centrifugal lubrication?
Several 1/16" diameter holes drilled from a tooth gullet inwards to
the inside lip of the cam gear face/flange allow all the oil coming off the main
to reach the gear contact area. Mine is full pressure to the mains so I drilled
a .050" hole in the capped end of the main feed tube to the front(now rear
main). I drilled the holes as suggested and have a TON of oil in tooth contact...to
the point that I somehow have oil working out of the tach connection.
Oil under pressure(30psi) sprays from this hole onto the backside of the cam gear.
Centrifugal actions carries it to the holes which then apply it to the gear
contact area.
You are welcome to stop up to Ft Atkinson anytime to look at what I did and compare
notes.
--------
PAPA MIKE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314238#314238
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1072_196.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1061_202.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bender" <jfaith(at)solairusaviation.com> |
I'm just about to star gluing wood together but thinking hard about engines. Dan's
problem kinda got me thinking..
i really want to use an A or B engine and i drive a '30 AA truck with a worn out
engine all the time.. it just keeps going. I just wonder if its not cheaper
to just put a Continental up front and call it a day.
I do love the thought of the A..
I kinda think one mag..or one mag and a B distributor ..and just modifying the
engine per the plans...IE keep it simple..
Seeing A65's on barnstormers under $3000 makes me think... not as groovy in the
end but... ?
Jeff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314240#314240
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
I think that Dan's issues with his Ford A motor are isolated and not representative
of the reliability of the A motors for Piet use. I don't recall anybody
else having similar issues to Dan's, and I'm sure that he will get his problems
ironed out and put behind him very soon.
There are many Pietenpols flying with the Model A engine on them, and with good
reason. I don't think that the problems of one particular engine would be enough
to sway me from my decision to use it, if I were planning on using the Model
A. I'm planning on using a Corvair engine in mine, despite the few problems
a few people have had with their engines. The problems have been noted, researched
and addressed to the point that my confidence in this engine choice is
not diminished.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314241#314241
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: turnbuckles & blasting cabinet. |
| From: | "coxwelljon" <coxwelljon(at)frontiernet.net> |
Bill,
The material for the eye ends is 3/16" cold rolled. I also purchased some 3/16"
stainless and some very expensive silver brazing wire and will try one out of
stainless. The under cutting was done on a lathe before the eye was bent.
I built a little jig out of a piece of angle iron and some 20d nails and heated
the end with a torch to make the bend. After brazing it shut I drilled the
eye out to clean it up with a 3/16" bit.
The barrel was started with 3/8" hex stock. I turned the ends down to just past
point where the flats were gone. The turn buckle shown is a little bit long
so I will build a shorter one with a 3" barrel and everything else reduced in
length proportionally.
After I do another one I will try to get my work sequence down so I can be efficient
in my production. I will also document my sizes and tolerances. Email
me and let me know what tools you might be using and I might have some suggestions.
I know not everyone has a lathe to work with but I would not be without
mine.
Jon
--------
Jon Coxwell
GN-1 Builder
Recycle and preserve the planet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314247#314247
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BIG problems- Model A wth dual mags |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Thanks Shad,
I plan on doing just that. Oh well, I needed to learn a lot more about thi
s engine anyway. Thank you for the advice and encouragement.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com>
Sent: Thu, Sep 30, 2010 12:21 pm
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: BIG problems- Model A wth dual mags
Unfortunatly, Dan I would say tear it all down and rebuild her. Debris li
kely is all through the engine. I believe A's are pretty much a splash lu
be, or at least a very low oil pressure engine, correct? But the teeth of
that gear and the particals from the grinding could be anywhere in bearin
gs etc. It's one of those situations where slow is fast, and more time eq
uals more saftey. Get started on it before it gets cold up there, and you
'll be done before it gets warm again. And just from some experiance, Ign
ore all the nay sayers, persistance = perservereance.
Shad
========================
===========
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-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gboothe5(at)comcast.net |
Jeff,
I ended up going with a corvair, but my second choice would be an 'A' or 'B'. Dan's
problems do seem to be typical for that engine. As you imply, those engines
may have been the dependable part of those cars!
Dan's a smart guy and a talented builder. I know the hanger goblins didn't get
in to the rest of his work, so they must all be in his engine! He'll figure it
out...
Gary Boothe
------Original Message------
From: bender
Sender: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Ford or not
Sent: Sep 30, 2010 1:34 PM
I'm just about to star gluing wood together but thinking hard about engines. Dan's
problem kinda got me thinking..
i really want to use an A or B engine and i drive a '30 AA truck with a worn out
engine all the time.. it just keeps going. I just wonder if its not cheaper
to just put a Continental up front and call it a day.
I do love the thought of the A..
I kinda think one mag..or one mag and a B distributor ..and just modifying the
engine per the plans...IE keep it simple..
Seeing A65's on barnstormers under $3000 makes me think... not as groovy in the
end but... ?
Jeff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314240#314240
Sent on the Sprint Now Network from my BlackBerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: BIG problems- Model A wth dual mags |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Papa,
I had Antique Engine Rebuilders in Skokie IL. build my engine. I don't thi
nk he drilled the cam gear. I will be tearing this engine down myself, and
will be open to any ideas anybody gives me. I will study your suggestion.
Thank you for the input. I go up Ft. Atkinson all the time when my wife
and I go to the Fireside Dinner Playhouse. I might be calling you. :o)
What is your opinion on cam gears, as far as using composite, aluminum
or bronze?
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: 899PM <rockriverrifle(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Thu, Sep 30, 2010 2:27 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: BIG problems- Model A wth dual mags
Dan,
When you put the engine together did you drill the cam gear for centrifuga
l
ubrication? Several 1/16" diameter holes drilled from a tooth gullet inwar
ds to
he inside lip of the cam gear face/flange allow all the oil coming off the
main
o reach the gear contact area. Mine is full pressure to the mains so I dri
lled
.050" hole in the capped end of the main feed tube to the front(now rear
ain). I drilled the holes as suggested and have a TON of oil in tooth
ontact...to the point that I somehow have oil working out of the tach
onnection. Oil under pressure(30psi) sprays from this hole onto the backsi
de of
he cam gear. Centrifugal actions carries it to the holes which then apply
it to
he gear contact area.
You are welcome to stop up to Ft Atkinson anytime to look at what I did an
d
ompare notes.
--------
APA MIKE
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314238#314238
ttachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1072_196.jpg
ttp://forums.matronics.com//files/img_1061_202.jpg
-========================
========================
===========
-= - The Pietenpol-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
========================
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov> |
Yes, the Model A is classic, it looks and sounds great. But, the great
philosophical question of our group is this:
If a Pietenpol lands in a bean field and no one is there to see it, is
it still groovy?
My A65 has run I don't know how many hours on a cylinder producing 0
compression and it just kept running, and running, and running. I know,
it's not the same thing as a bad mag gear, but still.
If you want to tinker, use an A. If you want to fly, use an A65.
That's my two cents, and let me tell ya, my advice ain't worth a dime.
Dan
On 09/30/2010 03:34 PM, bender wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "bender"
>
> I'm just about to star gluing wood together but thinking hard about engines.
Dan's problem kinda got me thinking..
> i really want to use an A or B engine and i drive a '30 AA truck with a worn
out engine all the time.. it just keeps going. I just wonder if its not cheaper
to just put a Continental up front and call it a day.
> I do love the thought of the A..
> I kinda think one mag..or one mag and a B distributor ..and just modifying the
engine per the plans...IE keep it simple..
> Seeing A65's on barnstormers under $3000 makes me think... not as groovy in the
end but... ?
>
> Jeff
>
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Ironically, my problem was due to trying to make the ignition system redun
dant and more reliable (dual ignition). Maybe I am too smart by half :O)
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: Billy McCaskill <billmz(at)cox.net>
Sent: Thu, Sep 30, 2010 3:58 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Ford or not
I think that Dan's issues with his Ford A motor are isolated and not
epresentative of the reliability of the A motors for Piet use. I don't re
call
nybody else having similar issues to Dan's, and I'm sure that he will get
his
roblems ironed out and put behind him very soon.
There are many Pietenpols flying with the Model A engine on them, and with
good
eason. I don't think that the problems of one particular engine would be
nough to sway me from my decision to use it, if I were planning on using
the
odel A. I'm planning on using a Corvair engine in mine, despite the few
roblems a few people have had with their engines. The problems have been
oted, researched and addressed to the point that my confidence in this eng
ine
hoice is not diminished.
--------
illy McCaskill
rbana, IL
ail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314241#314241
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
Your redundant ignition system is what got you back home safely, Dan. I'd say
that you are just smart enough to err on the side of caution. I'm sure you'll
have your problems figured out soon enough...
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314277#314277
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: turnbuckles & blasting cabinet. |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
Thanks for the info on the turnbuckles Jon. I don't own a lathe, but I do have
access to a very old 8" South Bend that will work for small projects like this.
Look forward to an update of your refined procedures and finished product.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314279#314279
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bender" <jfaith(at)solairusaviation.com> |
i kinda agree with you Dan... the extra mag didn't save you.. the one on the crank
where Bernie told you to put it did..
thats where i wonder about the A.. i've thought about all the water pump..ignition...2
plug heads.. counterweight crank...all that stuff .. and it makes since.
I just wonder if the KISS method is the right one with the A.. Like i said
my worn out AA just keeps running and i drive it way more than i probably
should. some one i read about actually ran a points distributor on a scout i think..
thanks for the replies....
by the way i am an A&P..IA... but i mostly work on jets.. i do a few annuals for
friends..the little continentals do work but i've flown behind a 2 smoke engine
too
jeff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314287#314287
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Piep" <charles(at)thecontactpoint.com> |
I am new to the forum and in the process of rebuilding a Pietenpol that was stored
for the last 10 years. Replacing the cables on the lift struts and trying
to find out the correct tension for these cables as well as the cables on the
cabanes and the tail brace wires. Nothing listed in the plans. Does anyone
have this info or other info on setting the wash in/ wash out on the wing?
Thanks,
Charlie
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314290#314290
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
Sorry Ford guys, that was a BB keyboard mistake...I meant to say that "Dan's
problems do NOT seem typical..."
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, mounted
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(20 ribs down.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gboothe5(at)comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 1:57 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Ford or not
Jeff,
I ended up going with a corvair, but my second choice would be an 'A' or
'B'. Dan's problems do seem to be typical for that engine. As you imply,
those engines may have been the dependable part of those cars!
Dan's a smart guy and a talented builder. I know the hanger goblins didn't
get in to the rest of his work, so they must all be in his engine! He'll
figure it out...
Gary Boothe
------Original Message------
From: bender
Sender: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
ReplyTo: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Ford or not
Sent: Sep 30, 2010 1:34 PM
I'm just about to star gluing wood together but thinking hard about engines.
Dan's problem kinda got me thinking..
i really want to use an A or B engine and i drive a '30 AA truck with a
worn out engine all the time.. it just keeps going. I just wonder if its not
cheaper to just put a Continental up front and call it a day.
I do love the thought of the A..
I kinda think one mag..or one mag and a B distributor ..and just modifying
the engine per the plans...IE keep it simple..
Seeing A65's on barnstormers under $3000 makes me think... not as groovy in
the end but... ?
Jeff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=314240#314240
Sent on the SprintR Now Network from my BlackBerryR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "VanDy" <matthew.vandervort(at)gmail.com> |
Charlie,
sounds like we are in the same boat!! Where are you located? Im near dayton
ohio.
September 18, 2010 - October 01, 2010
Pietenpol-Archive.digest.vol-jq