Pietenpol-Archive.digest.vol-jt
October 07, 2010 - October 29, 2010
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Two Air Camper projects for sale. |
| From: | "gabenner" <gbenner(at)bixbymachine.com> |
Hey Folks,
My name is Gary and I live in Spokane Washington. I've been watching the board
for about a year and a half and have just recently built my first rib. I'm looking
forward to building my Piet as time and money allows. So I wasn't going to
introduce myself yet until I was a little closer to actually building the bird
but today someone listed two Air camper projects on craigslist and I thought
you guy's should know about them.
I love reading your guy's posts and comment's. Some of you really crack me up.
Look up Craigslist Spokane and if I can help in anyway let me know.
Have a good day Gentlemen.
Semper Fi
Gary Benner
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315048#315048
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Motivating cross country trip |
That is one Awesome album!- I recognize at least a dozen of those places
from flying the piet around the Midwest.- Now I just gotta get my little
biplane done so dad and I can both go flying.- The cool part is he said i
t was 400 some gal of fuel, not much more expensive than a round trip coast
to coast and back flight on an American Airlines flight.-
-
Shad=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Motivating cross country trip |
That is one Awesome album!- I recognize at least a dozen of those places
from flying the piet around the Midwest.- Now I just gotta get my little
biplane done so dad and I can both go flying.- The cool part is he said i
t was 400 some gal of fuel, not much more expensive than a round trip coast
to coast and back flight on an American Airlines flight.-
-
Shad=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Offset on vertical stab |
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com> |
Ah, so there's a soft surface in there - it's not hard-on-hard-on-hard, which I
can just imagine would beat the heck out of the aluminum. Engineering by intuition
is no way to go through life, I guess.
Thanks for the edjamacation,
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
yocum137(at)gmail.com
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
On Oct 7, 2010, at 9:36 AM, taildrags wrote:
>
> Dan; the spacers go between the rubber donuts on the engine mount points and
the flats on the engine mount, same as washers. As mentioned in another post
in this thread, aluminum should we acceptable there... 6061-T6 has a Brinnell
hardness of 95; normalized 4130 steel has a BHN of 92.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Darrel Jones <wd6bor(at)vom.com> |
| Subject: | Piets and Gladiator movies |
Gary,
Are you suggesting that anyone building an airplane and/or flying an
airplane needs to watch the movie Airplane? For tips on in-flight meals?
Autopilots?
Inquiring minds...
Darrel
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Offset on vertical stab |
| From: | "coxwelljon" <coxwelljon(at)frontiernet.net> |
Dave,
I had our local DAR look at my project a couple of weeks ago for an interim inspection
and we talked about the vert. stab. offset. He told me, rule of thumb
for Cubs, Aeronacas, and of course Piets was this. If you sight along the vert.
stab. your sight line should be to a point 1/2 way between the center line
of the fuselage and the outer edge of the firewall. Left or right depends on
you engine. He did mention you can build something into the engine mount as
well but my recollection was. that this works without an engine offset.
I believe he knows what he is talking about as he does high end restoration work
on older Pipers and has won several awards at Oshkosh in recent years.
--------
Jon Coxwell
GN-1 Builder
Recycle and preserve the planet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315073#315073
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KM Heide CPO/FAAOP <kmheidecpo(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Fw: Those Ruskies !! Using up ALL the runway to take off |
-
-OPEN THE WEB SITE AT THE END OF THIS EMAIL AND WATCH THIS TAKEOFF!
-
-
A fully loaded Russian IL-76 cargo plane...... payload-1 million pounds!!
!!-
This really raises the-pucker-factor....-
Listen to the "controllers" in the tower who are Australian: Ya gotta love
it.-
"The Vodka Burner" as the Aussies call it, literally uses every inch of run
way.......
WATCH THE WHOLE VIDEO.. (shot from the tower)-
http://www.alexisparkinn.com/photogallery/Videos/2008-2-9-Il76-in-Australia
.wmv
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
This email and attachments may contain proprietary, confidential and legall
y privileged information protected from disclosure. It is for the intended
recipient(s) only. Unauthorized use, disclosure, or dissemination is prohib
ited. Unless otherwise stated, opinions or comments are those of the writer
, not AMSOIL INC. AMSOIL is not responsible for incorrect recommendations i
f information provided to AMSOIL is inaccurate or incomplete. If this has b
een received in error, please notify AMSOIL immediately and delete all copi
es and backups. Thank you for your cooperation.=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Piets and Gladiator movies |
Well.....yeah!
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, Running!
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(20 ribs down.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darrel Jones
Sent: Thursday, October 07, 2010 5:12 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Piets and Gladiator movies
Gary,
Are you suggesting that anyone building an airplane and/or flying an
airplane needs to watch the movie Airplane? For tips on in-flight meals?
Autopilots?
Inquiring minds...
Darrel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Gene Rambo's Pietenpol |
This week I've been helping Gene Rambo prepare to cover his Pietenpol
project. Today we got the lift struts finished and got the airplane all
assembled for the first time. Anyone who has been to this stage on their
Pietenpol project knows that this is a magic moment.
Gene has done a fantastic job on his Model A powered airplane, building it
just the way Bernard built his first one, with aileron cables external to
the wing, wire-wrapped and soldered cables, and period hardware (I think I
even saw some #7 wood screws holding the stabilizer in place), no brakes,
smooth tires on the wire wheels (not the wheels in the photos), and a
tailskid. The workmanship is impeccable. I've attached a couple of
pictures.
I'm looking forward to seeing this one at Brodhead next year.
Jack Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gene Rambo's Pietenpol |
| From: | "bubbleboy" <scott.dawson3(at)bigpond.com> |
Aaaahhh...there's no aphrodisiac like a naked Pietenpol.....im done! ;o)
Back to the garage for elevator building!
Scotty
--------
Scotty
Tamworth, Australia
Building a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camper
www.scottyspietenpol.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315088#315088
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gene Rambo's Pietenpol |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
That looks great!
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315093#315093
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gene Rambo's Pietenpol |
| From: | "chase143(at)aol.com" <chase143(at)aol.com> |
Super job Gene. Quite a difference from last time I saw it on saw horses!
Steve
--------
Steve
www.mypiet.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315094#315094
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TOM STINEMETZE" <TOMS(at)mcpcity.com> |
| Subject: | Newest Flying Piet |
For those of you who don't think you will ever get your Piet done - here's
one that only took three months start to finish. Be sure to watch the
First Flight video link at the bottom.
http://members.cox.net/tstinemetze/
Tom Stinemetze
McPherson, KS.
N328X
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Gene Rambo's Pietenpol |
Awesome! Looks great Gene. I can only imagine, at this point, what that must feel
like to have it "assembled" and ready for cover. Can't wait for my time to
come and be in your shoes! Keep us posted Gene/Jack...I am very interested in
the covering process and initial flight testing.
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lagowski Morrow" <jimdeb(at)charter.net> |
HELP-I will be out of touch for a while and need to stop these e-mails
, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to do it. Have tried
what I can find with no success. Help!--Jim Lagowski
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Unsubscribing |
Go to the following link and follow instructions to unsubscribe.
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Two Air Camper projects for sale. |
| From: | "BYD" <billsayre(at)ymail.com> |
Gary, welcome to the list and a word of caution - if the project(s) you're talking
about are the ones in Harrington, WA, be careful....the horizontal stabilizer
is definitely not fabricated from the Pietenpol plans. A careful inspection
of the other components would be wise.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315107#315107
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Two Air Camper projects for sale. |
| From: | "Bill Church" <billspiet(at)sympatico.ca> |
Actually, after looking at the craigslist photo, it looks like the horizontal stabilizer
likely IS fabricated from the Pietenpol plans ... That is, the version
of the plans published in the 1932 Flying and Glider Manual. (See attached
image).
However, the suggestion to do a careful inspection is definitely a good idea, prior
to purchasing anyone's project.
Bill C.
PS
I still can't understand how anybody can actually manage to build a complete plane
using only the EAA reprints of that magazine.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315108#315108
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/1932fgm_163.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gene Rambo's Pietenpol |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Gene,
Superb work. Can't wait to see it at Brodhead next year. The way I am goin
g, you might be the only black and yellow German that shows up!
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Newest Flying Piet |
| From: | "AircamperN11MS" <Scott.liefeld(at)lacity.org> |
That should win at OSH. What plans did you use and is there a link to them. I
have my first Grandson on an IFR flight plan and should be arriving around January
26, 2011. I think he should be ready to solo shortly after that and he'll
need his own Piet for that. He'll be too short to reach the rudder pedals
in mine.
Thanks,
--------
Scott Liefeld
Flying N11MS since March 1972
Steel Tube
C-85-12
Wire Wheels
Broadhead in 1996
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315114#315114
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TOM STINEMETZE" <TOMS(at)mcpcity.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Newest Flying Piet |
>>>That should win at OSH. What plans did you use and is there a link to
them. I have my first Grandson on an IFR flight plan and should be
arriving around January 26, 2011. I think he should be ready to solo
shortly after that and he'll need his own Piet for that. He'll be too
short to reach the rudder pedals in mine.
Thanks,
--------
Scott Liefeld
Scott:
I purchased my plans and some of the materials from Aviation Products,
Inc. which can be researched at the following link: http://www.pedalplanek
its.com/index.html
By the time it was completed I believe I had just a little over $300 in it
plus a very reasonable (and enjoyable) amount of build time. They have a
lot of models available besides the Pietenpol but why would you want to
look at anything else?
Tom Stinemetze
N328X
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Gene Rambo's Pietenpol |
| From: | "AircamperN11MS" <Scott.liefeld(at)lacity.org> |
Very nice Gene,
I actually mis the building part. I too have wire wheels and no brakes. I have
learned that if you keep the tire pressure low (mine look half flat all the
time) it will make the plane very pleasurable to land and taxi. I fly and taxi
mine in 25 & 30 knot winds all the time in the California desert. After 30
knots I need wing walkers. With hard tires I can't stop it from rolling even
in calm air. Just my two cents. It's all fun.
--------
Scott Liefeld
Flying N11MS since March 1972
Steel Tube
C-85-12
Wire Wheels
Broadhead in 1996
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315120#315120
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Newest Flying Piet |
| From: | "AircamperN11MS" <Scott.liefeld(at)lacity.org> |
Thanks for the plans info. Gary, I thought you knew. The dang kid is contained
in a big sack of liquid. He should break out into VFR conditions on short
final.
--------
Scott Liefeld
Flying N11MS since March 1972
Steel Tube
C-85-12
Wire Wheels
Broadhead in 1996
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315125#315125
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Newest Flying Piet |
| From: | "AircamperN11MS" <Scott.liefeld(at)lacity.org> |
Gary,
Do you know if there is going to be another Frazeur Lake event. I enjoyed it.
--------
Scott Liefeld
Flying N11MS since March 1972
Steel Tube
C-85-12
Wire Wheels
Broadhead in 1996
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315129#315129
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Newest Flying Piet |
| From: | "AircamperN11MS" <Scott.liefeld(at)lacity.org> |
Perhaps I shall give rides to those who ask this year. You all were new faces
to me last time and I needed to meet you. Now that's over with, the fun shall
begin.
--------
Scott Liefeld
Flying N11MS since March 1972
Steel Tube
C-85-12
Wire Wheels
Broadhead in 1996
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315132#315132
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Pietenpol Aerial almost done |
| From: | "Wildman" <scrambler13(at)hotmail.com> |
Well after a long hard year I am almost done with my Piet. Aerial. 0290 Lycoming
engine, If anyone remembers about a year ago I bought this Aerial and as
I was bringing it home a strap broke and it blew off the trailer and destroyed
the fuselage. I decided to rebuild with chrome moly tubing. The plane is now
73 pounds lighter than it was and alot stronger. It is all together except
for some trim around the center section and wings, and around the tail. The engine
runs great. I have a friend doing the interior now. As soon as he is done
I will call the DAR to inspect it. Here are some pictures. Sorry about the
pictures, I will have some better ones soon.
Wade
--------
Pietenpol Aerial
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315136#315136
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/mvc_004f_198.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/mvc_005f_432.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/mvc_007f_183.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/mvc_006f_209.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Two Air Camper projects for sale. |
| From: | "BYD" <billsayre(at)ymail.com> |
Ah, good catch! I had forgotten about those and stand corrected.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315143#315143
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Two Air Camper projects for sale. |
| From: | "gabenner" <gbenner(at)bixbymachine.com> |
Thank you but I can't buy someone else's project. I just remember seeing someone
on here that was looking for a project.
I have to build my own. I would like to be able to hand down an Airplane to my
grandkids, They love airplanes almost as much as I do so I hope to build my piet
in the next 6 to 8 years and be able to teach them to fly and be able to hand
down a beautiful aircraft.
As for the movies...Yes on Waldo but I'm not a big gladiator fan. I'm more of the
John Wayne war movie kind of a guy although I love the movie Finding Flight.
You members on this list all do incredible work. Unbelievable the hours I have
spent looking at all your guy's pictures.
Semper Fi
Gary
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315151#315151
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol Aerial almost done |
Wade,
That looks GREAT! Congratulations and good luck with the DAR.
Jeff
--
Jeff Boatright
"Now let's think about this..."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Rambo <generambo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gene Rambo's Pietenpol |
Hi All!!
Jack left today=2C the model of patience. He thought he was coming up here
to cover a Pietenpol=2C but instead we spent the week finalizing a million
things that I never got to. The biggest job was building the struts. Usi
ng Cub rear struts=2C we tried a few times to flatten the ends to my satisf
action. Then a trip to a machine shop to purchase thick 3 ince angle iron
which Jack cut and bent to make a pair of dies (die?)=2C then modify them t
o screw to the vise and we had the perfect tool=2C after only a half day of
messing around with it!
As you saw in the photos Jack posted yesterday=2C we got it assembled and r
igged and rolled outside. Today we removed the wing (one-piece wing=2C no
small job!) and prepped it for cover=2C medical tape on edges=2C inter-rib
bracing tape=2C etc. We just did get the fabric glued to the top of the wi
ng before we had to shut down for the day=2C or until next week for me. I
am using the Stewart system glue on the lightweight Ceconite=2C and I am pu
tting dope on it. So far=2C the Stewart glue seems to be working like a ch
arm.
I have to run now=2C I'll post a couple of photos later. I cannot thank Ja
ck enough.
Gene
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Those Ruskies !! Using up ALL the runway to take off |
| From: | "coxwelljon" <coxwelljon(at)frontiernet.net> |
That takes guts
--------
Jon Coxwell
GN-1 Builder
Recycle and preserve the planet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315170#315170
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Update on the "A" |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Well, I have started to tear down my engine. Things are going slow. I am
so discouraged that I actually have to force myself to go out into the ha
ngar. As I told you good people before, I removed my cam-gear-driven magne
to and discovered the teeth either sheered or worn off. Here are a couple
of preliminary photos peeking through the mag drive housing. I talked to
Ken Perkins (the designer and seller of this mag drive) and he said it wa
s because I did not have adequate clearance between the gears. I didn't ev
en think of that when I put it together. It seemed to fit OK so I just tho
ught all was OK......NOT! As you can see, only about half of the chord of
the teeth are gone. The part that was left kept my cam turning so I could
get home and not end up in a bean field.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Rambo <generambo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Update on the "A" |
I guess I don't understand something=2C Dan. The original crankshaft gear
and its mating (composite) cam gear are helical gears. All of the after ma
rket gears I have ever seen=2C be they aluminum or bronze=2C are helical as
well. I am not sure what your photo is showing=2C but it is clearly a str
aight gear. Does your magneto drive modification change the crankshaft gea
r as well=2C so that all of the gears are straight gears?? The only other
thing I can tell from your photo is that the magneto gear was only partiall
y engaging the drive gear=2C it appears to be less than half=2C which may b
e the sum of your problem=2C but I still don't get what gear you are showin
g.
BTW=2C you never did call=2C please give me a call when you get a chance=2C
202-674-1445.
Gene
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Update on the "A"
Date: Sat=2C 9 Oct 2010 07:50:23 -0400
From: helspersew(at)aol.com
Well=2C I have started to tear down my engine. Things are going slow. I am
so discouraged that I actually have to force myself to go out into the hang
ar. As I told you good people before=2C I removed my cam-gear-driven magnet
o and discovered the teeth either sheered or worn off. Here are a couple of
preliminary photos peeking through the mag drive housing. I talked to Ken
Perkins (the designer and seller of this mag drive) and he said it was beca
use I did not have adequate clearance between the gears. I didn't even thin
k of that when I put it together. It seemed to fit OK so I just thought all
was OK......NOT! As you can see=2C only about half of the chord of the te
eth are gone. The part that was left kept my cam turning so I could get hom
e and not end up in a bean field.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove=2C IL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Those Ruskies !! Using up ALL the runway to take off |
| From: | "dgaldrich" <dgaldrich(at)embarqmail.com> |
Off by a zero. 100,000 lbs max load, but still impressive. Just wonder what his
V speeds were. The way it looked, he needed all 4 to even get barely airborne
with the runway available. Loss of one engine ANYWHERE on the takeoff roll
would have rolled him into a fireball. That's not guts, that's stupidity.
The only way it makes sense is if he actually DID have one engine quit right after
V1. That would also account for the sloooow climb.
Dave Aldrich
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315217#315217
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "333barryt" <barry.triplett(at)oceansky.com> |
Hello gentlemen. I have been a lurker here for years. Though I have occasionally
thought to add a comment or idea, mostly there is no reason to do it.
My Piet qualifications are that I was the first person to fly with Lowell
after he hung the Warner on his airplane. Plus, I was caretaker for an unfinished
A-Model Piet for a few years on which I did little. That airplane is now
under the care and feeding of Don Lane who does show up once in a while here.
I expect it will take to the air soon. Those in Eastern NC might keep their
ears peeled. I expect there will be another one in my life, though not for a
while.
The impetus for this post is to say the recent series on Piet flying qualities
was one of the most elucidating set of posts yet, with cogent weigh-ins from
many. Well done.
The second reason is to suggest to Dan that his current revelations are a
gift.
Carry on with vigor.
Barry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315226#315226
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Update on the "A" |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Yes Gene,
As I indicated to you on the phone this morning (I called you back immedia
tely, after the public humiliation) that the partial-meshing of the gears
may be the sum of my problems. Also, it may appear in the photo that this
is a straight-toothed gear, but it is in fact, a readily-available afterm
arket helical cam gear......................... After some contempla
tion, I have decided to eliminate this 2nd magneto, and just go with the
one crank-driven mag, as "Bernerd" originally designed it. That's what I
get, (as a purported purist), for deviating from BHP's original design.
Thank you for your insight and perspective.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gene Rambo <generambo(at)msn.com>
Sent: Sat, Oct 9, 2010 9:34 am
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Update on the "A"
I guess I don't understand something, Dan. The original crankshaft gear
and its mating (composite) cam gear are helical gears. All of the after
market gears I have ever seen, be they aluminum or bronze, are helical as
well. I am not sure what your photo is showing, but it is clearly a stra
ight gear. Does your magneto drive modification change the crankshaft gea
r as well, so that all of the gears are straight gears?? The only other
thing I can tell from your photo is that the magneto gear was only partia
lly engaging the drive gear, it appears to be less than half, which may be
the sum of your problem, but I still don't get what gear you are showing.
BTW, you never did call, please give me a call when you get a chance, 202-
674-1445.
Gene
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Update on the "A"
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2010 07:50:23 -0400
From: helspersew(at)aol.com
Well, I have started to tear down my engine. Things are going slow. I am
so discouraged that I actually have to force myself to go out into the ha
ngar. As I told you good people before, I removed my cam-gear-driven magne
to and discovered the teeth either sheered or worn off. Here are a couple
of preliminary photos peeking through the mag drive housing. I talked to
Ken Perkins (the designer and seller of this mag drive) and he said it wa
s because I did not have adequate clearance between the gears. I didn't ev
en think of that when I put it together. It seemed to fit OK so I just tho
ught all was OK......NOT! As you can see, only about half of the chord of
the teeth are gone. The part that was left kept my cam turning so I could
get home and not end up in a bean field.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tucker" <Tucker(at)tuckerrice.net> |
Got 4 ribs done so far. Kind of a slow process since I can only build 2 ribs each
weekend between baseball and basketball games, homework, and studying.
Using this little 23ga pin nailer from Harbor Freight sure beats hand nailing the
gussets in place. I'm going to try to talk Captain into doing some for me
if I can get him to break away from his RV-9A.
Captain said that we should be able to get the fuselage basically built over the
Christmas break and then build the wing over Spring break. That would be way
cool.
--------
Tucker
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315235#315235
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0007_110.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0006_280.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol Aerial almost done |
| From: | "Dan P" <dlplett(at)swko.net> |
Wow!!! That looks really great.
--------
Dan Plett
N28WH
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315237#315237
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | My Plan is Working |
Here's what you do: You go hang out at the local High School, and before
they chase you away, you find a senior student who wants to do a senior
report on experimental aviation. Then you tell him how much fun it is to
build wing ribs, and that you'll buy him Diet Cokes if he builds you some
ribs.
"That's how it's done, Son!"
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, Running!
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(21 ribs down.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
Keep at it, Tucker! You don't want to end up like me...an old man with 9
more ribs to build...
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, Running!
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(21 ribs down.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tucker
Sent: Saturday, October 09, 2010 5:42 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Doin' Some Ribs
Got 4 ribs done so far. Kind of a slow process since I can only build 2
ribs each weekend between baseball and basketball games, homework, and
studying.
Using this little 23ga pin nailer from Harbor Freight sure beats hand
nailing the gussets in place. I'm going to try to talk Captain into doing
some for me if I can get him to break away from his RV-9A.
Captain said that we should be able to get the fuselage basically built over
the Christmas break and then build the wing over Spring break. That would
be way cool.
--------
Tucker
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315235#315235
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0007_110.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0006_280.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Two Air Camper projects for sale. |
| From: | "Dan P" <dlplett(at)swko.net> |
Looks like these two Piets are listed on Barnstormers too. http://barnstormers.com/classified_479432_2+Pietenpol+projects+.html
--------
Dan Plett
N28WH
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315261#315261
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Pietenpol Aerial almost done |
That IS a very nice Aerial! It will be interesting
to hear how it flies. I've really never heard how
they fly and there aren't many of them out there.
Now cover your ears if you don't want to hear this,
but to my knowledge none of the Pietenpol family ever
had any connection to Chad Wille's Aerial design and
no one named Pietenpol has ever registered one, so
there is no such thing as a "Pietenpol Aerial". This
one may be the first, if it is registered that way.
As I understand the regulations, one may register an
experimental amateur-built aircraft with any name that one
chooses. Thus, there could be a Rutan Air Camper, a
Pietenpol White Knight, or even such a hermaphrodite
as an F-100 Van's Rans Zenith Aircamper ;o)
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol Aerial almost done |
| From: | "peterk48" <peterk48(at)msn.com> |
taildrags wrote:
> That IS a very nice Aerial! It will be interesting
> to hear how it flies. I've really never heard how
> they fly and there aren't many of them out there.
>
> Now cover your ears if you don't want to hear this,
> but to my knowledge none of the Pietenpol family ever
> had any connection to Chad Wille's Aerial design and
> no one named Pietenpol has ever registered one, so
> there is no such thing as a "Pietenpol Aerial". This
> one may be the first, if it is registered that way.
>
> As I understand the regulations, one may register an
> experimental amateur-built aircraft with any name that one
> chooses. Thus, there could be a Rutan Air Camper, a
> Pietenpol White Knight, or even such a hermaphrodite
> as an F-100 Van's Rans Zenith Aircamper ;o)
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Air Camper NX41CC
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
In light of your comments, its interesting that this one is registered as serial
#1404.
--------
Pete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315264#315264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harvey Rule <harvey.rule(at)bell.net> |
| Subject: | RE:mags and harnesses |
Thanks very much to Oscar Zuniga for hooking me up with Scott who has sold
me his mags and harnesses which I am hoping will work in my situation.I rea
lly appreciate the work you did there.People like Oscar and Scott are what
makes this web page what it is=2Cnothing short of fantastic!
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol Aerial almost done |
| From: | "Wildman" <scrambler13(at)hotmail.com> |
I wasn't aware that there were no more listed as pietenpol Aerial. I know the
fuselage is built from the original Pietenpol plans, I built it. I think is is
a St. Croix conversion. I did how ever register it as a Pietenpol Aerial so
maybe it is one of a kind in that repect.. If it is not truly a Pietenpol
I hope you all won't mind if I continue to visit and post on this forum. I think
it is an incredible source of information and everyone here has been so nice
to help me.
Wade
--------
Pietenpol Aerial
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315285#315285
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack" <jack(at)textors.com> |
Had some fun turning flanges and fabricating other tank parts this weekend.
Figured out a way using a 3/8 pipe fitting to use as an index to drill the
flanges. Still have a way to go on the float gauge. It's been tough
working on the gal with such nice weather, severe clear and 75 to 80 the
last two weeks! Wish I could have been flying.
Jack
DSM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Douwe Blumberg" <douweblumberg(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Dan's experience |
Hey Dan,
As I'm learning, and Jack has shared many times, these kinds of setbacks are
really a challenge to work through, but it's really a mental game. However,
after they're worked through and a few weeks or months down the road, it'll
just be a good story to tell someone while you're back enjoying your
absolutely gorgeous plane!!
I'm still hoping to be up and ready to fly again next spring. we'll see,
things are going slowly.
"Endeavor to Persevere"
Douwe
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Fittings |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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KM Heide CPO/FAAOP <kmheidecpo(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: My Plan is Working |
Great Photo...
=C2-
But unless I am mistaken, is the gusset for the top of the first spar glued
to interfere with the spar as it moves through the rib? Thoughts that's wh
at I was...but did not have my glasses on.
KMH
--- On Sat, 10/9/10, Gary Boothe wrote:
From: Gary Boothe <gboothe5(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: My Plan is Working
Date: Saturday, October 9, 2010, 10:41 PM
Here=99s what you do: You go hang out at the local High School, and b
efore they chase you away, you find a senior student who wants to do a seni
or report on experimental aviation. Then you tell him how much fun it is to
build wing ribs, and that you=99ll buy him Diet Cokes if he builds y
ou some ribs.
=C2-
=9CThat=99s how it=99s done, Son!=9D
=C2-
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion,=C2-Running!
Tail done,=C2-Fuselage=C2-on gear
(21 ribs down)
=C2-=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol Aerial almost done |
| From: | "Dan P" <dlplett(at)swko.net> |
Wade
Oscar might want to cover his ears. [Wink]
At Oshkosh Doc Mosher commented on the various design variations and changes to
the Pietenpol. Doc compared Piets to snow flakes. We all recognize a snow
flake when we see it. No two are alike but they are still snow flakes. It
is easy to see the Pietenpol resemblance in your Aerial.
Keep us updated on your progress.
--------
Dan Plett
N28WH
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315304#315304
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Ash <ashcan(at)earthlink.net> |
Gents -
I'm in Washington state and have some free time tomorrow. I've heard amazing things
about Boeing surplus, but I'd also heard a year or two or three ago that
they were closing. Does anybody know if they're still open and what kind of hours
they keep?
Jim Ash
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Slower than a Piet |
| From: | "Baldeagle" <baldeagle27(at)earthlink.net> |
pre-Bernie, but thought you guys might like this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FhsmiGFm_gI
-
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315314#315314
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Dan's experience |
| From: | "kevinpurtee" <kevin.purtee(at)us.army.mil> |
Well said, Douwe. Jack, you, me, and now Dan (and many others, I'm sure) work
through the drama and continue to fly the airplanes.
My best to you, Dan. I have every faith we'll park the airplanes together at Brodhead
again next year and fly unauthorized traffic patterns.
Kevin
--------
Kevin Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315316#315316
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Fittings |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Nice work Jack, and I am sure very satisfying!!
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack <jack(at)textors.com>
Sent: Sun, Oct 10, 2010 7:22 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuel Fittings
Had some fun turning flanges and fabricating other tank parts this weekend
. Figured out a way using a 3/8 pipe fitting to use as an index to drill
the flanges. Still have a way to go on the float gauge. It=99s be
en tough working on the gal with such nice weather, severe clear and 75 to
80 the last two weeks! Wish I could have been flying.
Jack
DSM
<<...>> <<...>> <<...>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Pietenpol Aerial almost done |
Dan wrote:
>Oscar might want to cover his ears. [Wink] At Oshkosh Doc Mosher
>commented on the various design variations and changes to
>the Pietenpol. Doc compared Piets to snow flakes. We all
>recognize a snowflake when we see it. No two are alike but
>they are still snow flakes. It is easy to see the Pietenpol
>resemblance in your Aerial. Keep us updated on your progress.
Absolutely right! I think we all love this airplane and its
various nuances and versions and it's why we're here. By all
means, let's hear about the airplane, how it flies, how it
was built, and especially let's see more pictures! Real curious
to know how it responds in yaw with that big round Pitts-style
tail, too.
As for Dan, he won't mind if I call GN-1s "Grega Cubs" since it's
easy to see the Cub resemblance in the wing struts and landing
gear ;o)
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Slower than a Piet |
| From: | "Pieti Lowell" <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com> |
Who said that older people don't make a difference. A very great demonstration
of skill and talent,
Pieti Lowell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315328#315328
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Update on the "A" |
| From: | "Pieti Lowell" <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com> |
Dan
You are dealing with a very tough engine, it can take a huge amount of abuse, high
temperatures, low oil lubrication, etc. I ran a Ford A with a turbo once and
when it turned close to 3000 I said WHY ? that will never stand up.All with
a 76 X 42. After 2 years it was sold and still running.
Keep your dedication Dan, You have a lot of Bernie Pietenpol IN YOU.
Pieti Lowell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315330#315330
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TOM STINEMETZE" <TOMS(at)mcpcity.com> |
I promised you guys that I would not spend a lot of time bragging about my
boys and I'll try to keep that promise. BUT, this is just too exciting to
hold in.
SpaceShipTwo made it's first free flight / landing yesterday at Mojave, CA
and both my boys are up to their armpits in the project. If you are
interested you may view an admittedly promotional video of the flight at
http://www.virgingalactic.com/multimedia/. Go to the videos section and
view the first one in the upper left corner.
This is somewhat Pietenpol related in that they are the reason I got
started on this project in the first place AND they are helping me with
some of the metal parts for the brake system. They are also pretty good
at shaming me into getting back out in the shop and getting something
done. By the way, Axel, they did not land it in the pond.
GO SCALED! Rah Rah Rah
Stinemetze,
N328X
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Boyer <boyerjrb(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: My Plan is Working |
Cruel and wicked thats what you are Gary; know any more students that would like
assembling wings?
Jim B.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 9, 2010 8:41:44 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: My Plan is Working
Heres what you do: You go hang out at the local High School, and before they chase
you away, you find a senior student who wants to do a senior report on experimental
aviation. Then you tell him how much fun it is to build wing ribs, and
that youll buy him Diet Cokes if he builds you some ribs.
Thats how its done, Son!
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion,Running!
Tail done,Fuselageon gear
(21 ribs down)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Two Air Camper projects for sale. |
| From: | "gabenner" <gbenner(at)bixbymachine.com> |
Hi Rick,
Yes I eat at Felts Field all the time. I'm a machine shop supplier who's store
is just a mile away from the cafe, great place to take customers and vendors for
lunch. It's also one of the most historic fields around.
Gary
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315336#315336
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Boeing surplus |
| From: | "BYD" <billsayre(at)ymail.com> |
Unfortunately, Boeing surplus closed its brick and mortar facility in December
2007. Their current outlet can be viewed at: https://active.boeing.com/assocproducts/surplus/Index.cfm
but it's more auction based and not near as useful for
builders as the old store was.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315368#315368
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol Aerial almost done |
| From: | "Dan P" <dlplett(at)swko.net> |
taildrags wrote:
>
>
> As for Dan, he won't mind if I call GN-1s "Grega Cubs" since it's
> easy to see the Cub resemblance in the wing struts and landing
> gear ;o)
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Air Camper NX41CC
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Nope Dan doesn't mind. In your world you can call it what ever you want.
--------
Dan Plett
N28WH
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315375#315375
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dortch, Steven D MAJ NG NG NGB" <steven.d.dortch(at)us.army.mil> |
When my mother died an old indian friend told me "My mother died 30 years ago and
I still miss her. It gets better but I think of her every day." This has proven
to be true for me.
God Bless
Steve Dortch
On 10/04/10, Douwe Blumberg wrote:
> Sorry about your loss John!
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> My dad died three weeks ago, it’s kind of surreal still,
>
> as they’ve been there in the background of your entire life.
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> Douwe
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Barry Davis" <bed(at)mindspring.com> |
There is nothing wrong about bragging on the kids. Sounds like they have the
job that all of us airplane nuts would kill to have. Unfortunately, we must
earn a living somehow and most of the time it doesn't include airplanes.
PS: My oldest son (2 grandkids) is a Monavie big-wig. My daughter is a
Georgia Tech engineer and is at General Dynamics Electric Boat (subs). And
youngest son plays guitar for a living all over the US.
See, I couldn't help it either!
Barry Davis
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TOM
STINEMETZE
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 10:34 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Braggin' rights
I promised you guys that I would not spend a lot of time bragging about my
boys and I'll try to keep that promise. BUT, this is just too exciting to
hold in.
SpaceShipTwo made it's first free flight / landing yesterday at Mojave, CA
and both my boys are up to their armpits in the project. If you are
interested you may view an admittedly promotional video of the flight at
http://www.virgingalactic.com/multimedia/. Go to the videos section and
view the first one in the upper left corner.
This is somewhat Pietenpol related in that they are the reason I got started
on this project in the first place AND they are helping me with some of the
metal parts for the brake system. They are also pretty good at shaming me
into getting back out in the shop and getting something done. By the way,
Axel, they did not land it in the pond.
GO SCALED! Rah Rah Rah
Stinemetze,
N328X
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | airlion <airlion(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Braggin' rights |
Barry, you have a lot to brag about. Congratulations,Gardiner
________________________________
From: Barry Davis <bed(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Tue, October 12, 2010 11:30:16 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Braggin' rights
There is nothing wrong about bragging on the kids. Sounds like they have the
job that all of us airplane nuts would kill to have. Unfortunately, we must
earn a living somehow and most of the time it doesn't include airplanes.
PS: My oldest son (2 grandkids) is a Monavie big-wig. My daughter is a Georgia
Tech engineer and is at General Dynamics Electric Boat (subs). And youngest son
plays guitar for a living all over the US.
See, I couldn't help it either!
Barry Davis
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of TOM STINEMETZE
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 10:34 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Braggin' rights
I promised you guys that I would not spend a lot of time bragging about my boys
and I'll try to keep that promise. BUT, this is just too exciting to hold in.
SpaceShipTwo made it's first free flight / landing yesterday at Mojave, CA and
both my boys are up to their armpits in the project. If you are interested you
may view an admittedly promotional video of the flight at
http://www.virgingalactic.com/multimedia/. Go to the videos section and view
the first one in the upper left corner.
This is somewhat Pietenpol related in that they are the reason I got started on
this project in the first place AND they are helping me with some of the metal
parts for the brake system. They are also pretty good at shaming me into
getting back out in the shop and getting something done. By the way, Axel,
they did not land it in the pond.
GO SCALED! Rah Rah Rah
Stinemetze,
N328X
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Woodflier(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Nylo-seal oil pressure line? |
Ok, I bought the A/C Spruce oil pressure line kit, and after I get it and
start looking at the Nylo-Seal tubing, it says "max temp 212 degrees." I
went with the nylon because I thought it would withstand the vibration better
than copper. But the temp rating for the nylon worries me, as does
something I read recently in one of Tony Bengalis's articles on the EAA site that
you don't want flammable liquids running through tubing that can burn
through and feed an engine fire.
I feel kinda dumb with the Piet in the final stages but there's a way I can
run copper tubing or Aeroquip 303 rubber braided hose.
What would y'all do?
Matt Paxton
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nylo-seal oil pressure line? |
| From: | "AlRice" <Allen(at)allenrice.net> |
Definitely would not use nylo-seal or copper. Nylo-seal won't handle the heat
and copper will harden and crack with the vibration. Go with the Aeroquip from
the engine to the firewall.
--------
Al Rice
Skybolt 260
RV-9A
Helping with my grandson's Pietenpol Air Camper
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315472#315472
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nylo-seal oil pressure line? |
| From: | "BYD" <billsayre(at)ymail.com> |
My Stinson has had copper tubing primer lines since 1947 and I intend on running
the same for my oil pressure gauge on the Piet I'm finishing (the exterior tubing
on the Model-A is copper also) for the same reason Woodflier cited.
I know of a 1929 Travelaire biplane that has copper tubing for its fuel lines (and
has for years that I know of) but I don't know if they've ever been replaced
due to cracking or not.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315485#315485
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Nylo-seal oil pressure line? |
| From: | "AlRice" <Allen(at)allenrice.net> |
I know that older planes used copper. I restored a 1931 Great Lakes biplane that
used 1/8" copper direct from the engine to the oil pressure gauge. There were
lots of practices from the "old days" that have been superseded by new accepted
practices, most due to failures.
--------
Al Rice
Skybolt 260
RV-9A
Helping with my grandson's Pietenpol Air Camper
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315486#315486
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harvey Rule <harvey.rule(at)bell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nylo-seal oil pressure line? |
I have copper on mine for oil and gas primer.
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Nylo-seal oil pressure line?
> From: Allen(at)allenrice.net
> Date: Tue=2C 12 Oct 2010 15:19:45 -0700
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> I know that older planes used copper. I restored a 1931 Great Lakes bipla
ne that used 1/8" copper direct from the engine to the oil pressure gauge.
There were lots of practices from the "old days" that have been superseded
by new accepted practices=2C most due to failures.
>
> --------
> Al Rice
> Skybolt 260
> RV-9A
> Helping with my grandson's Pietenpol Air Camper
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315486#315486
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nylo-seal oil pressure line? |
I studied this a bit when I was at that stage. From what I remember,
the copper can work harden and get brittle, but that can be avoided by
annealing it every few years. I ended up using 1/8 inch aluminum sold
by ASS, and put a big loop on the end next to the engine. Also per Tony
Bingelis recommendations, I made a small orifice in the engine side
fitting, so if the oil line breaks, the leak won't be an immediate show
stopper.
Ben
On 10/12/2010 6:26 PM, Harvey Rule wrote:
> I have copper on mine for oil and gas primer.
>
> > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Nylo-seal oil pressure line?
> > From: Allen(at)allenrice.net
> > Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 15:19:45 -0700
> > To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> >
> >
> > I know that older planes used copper. I restored a 1931 Great Lakes
> biplane that used 1/8" copper direct from the engine to the oil
> pressure gauge. There were lots of practices from the "old days" that
> have been superseded by new accepted practices, most due to failures.
> >
> > --------
> > Al Rice
> > Skybolt 260
> > RV-9A
> > Helping with my grandson's Pietenpol Air Camper
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315486#315486
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >=======================
> >
> >
> >
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack" <jack(at)textors.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel sump question |
Checked the archives and found nice email from Chuck G that was helpful,
but
I have another question. For my wing tank I=92m planning 2 fuel
outlets, 1
front and 1 rear. On the rear edge of the tank I will also have a float
gauge with a sump drain and a machined sump bowl with a drain. Since
the
drains and the rear fuel outlet are at the same level, I=92m
wondering=85.For
the fuel outlet should I extend it into the tank a =BC=94 to be above
any water
that may be present. I understand the drawback of decreasing my tank
capacity. Any thoughts would certainly be appreciated!
Thanks,
Jack
DSM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Nylo-seal oil pressure line? |
I ran copper tubing. 210 hours and all's well.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Woodflier(at)aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 4:27 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Nylo-seal oil pressure line?
Ok, I bought the A/C Spruce oil pressure line kit, and after I get it and
start looking at the Nylo-Seal tubing, it says "max temp 212 degrees." I
went with the nylon because I thought it would withstand the vibration
better than copper. But the temp rating for the nylon worries me, as does
something I read recently in one of Tony Bengalis's articles on the EAA site
that you don't want flammable liquids running through tubing that can burn
through and feed an engine fire.
I feel kinda dumb with the Piet in the final stages but there's a way I can
run copper tubing or Aeroquip 303 rubber braided hose.
What would y'all do?
Matt Paxton
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jeff wilson <jlwilsonnn(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Nylo-seal oil pressure line? |
I also do not like the idea of any oil in the cockpit or anywhere behind th
e firewall. I bought an electronic oil sender and gauge combo from Jegs Aut
omotive. Nothing but wire from oil sender to the gauge. Cost around 40 to 5
0 bucks I think. I have not yet installed it but if it works on race cars,
I think I can make it work on on an overgrown lawnmower engine(A-65).
Jeff Wilson
N899WT(R)
St. Louis
Varnishing Fuse Now, Wings done
--- On Tue, 10/12/10, Jack Phillips wrote:
From: Jack Phillips <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Nylo-seal oil pressure line?
Date: Tuesday, October 12, 2010, 8:36 PM
=0A=0A=0A =0A =0A=0A =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AI ran copper tubing.=C2- 210
hours and=0Aall=99s well. =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0AJack=0A Phillips =0A
=0ANX899JP =0A=0ARaleigh, NC =0A=0A =C2- =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AFr
om:=0A owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:=0A owner-pietenpo
l-list-server(at)matronics.com ] On Behalf Of Woodflier(at)aol.com
=0ASent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010=0A4:27 PM
=0ATo: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
=0ASubject: Pietenpol-List: Nylo-seal=0Aoil pressure line? =0A=0A=0A=0A =C2
- =0A=0A=0A=0AOk, I bought the A/C Spruce oil pressure=0Aline kit, and af
ter I get it and start looking at the Nylo-Seal tubing, it says=0A"max temp
212 degrees." I went with the nylon because I thought it=0Awould withstand
the vibration better than copper. But the temp rating for the=0Anylon worr
ies me, as does something I read recently in one of Tony Bengalis's=0Aartic
les on the EAA site that you don't want flammable liquids running through
=0Atubing that can burn through and feed an engine fire. =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0A=C2- =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AI feel kinda dumb with the Piet in the=0Afinal
stages but there's a way I can run copper tubing or Aeroquip 303 rubber=0Ab
raided hose. =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=C2- =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AWhat would y'all d
o? =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=C2- =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AMatt Paxton =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
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Listhttp://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.com/contribution =C2-
=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nylo-seal oil pressure line? |
450+ hours on N8031 with a copper oil line.
--
Dan Yocum
yocum137(at)gmail.com
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
On Oct 12, 2010, at 8:36 PM, Jack Phillips wrote:
> I ran copper tubing. 210 hours and alls well.
>
> Jack Phillips
> NX899JP
> Raleigh, NC
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Long Fuse Center Strut Fitting |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
I have a question about the placement of the center strut fittings on the long
fuse. More specifically, the rear set and the placement of the instrument panel
cross struts and plywood stiffener. I understand the spacing between the front
and rear (28.75") as this is the spacing between the wing spars when measured
center to center. But, if we look at the long fuse print (below), the distance
to the front stiffener is...
15" + 6.25" + 23" + .125" (plywood seat back/instrument board) = 44.375"
This places the front cross strut right in line (and in the way) of where the rear
center strut fitting should go. I am assuming that the center strut fittings
mount as shown below (red). If so, I am a little confused about the measurements
shown in the drawings. If I choose to move the cross struts and stiffener
forward or aft, I'll make for an awful strange looking front seat and headrest
(out of alignment).
I've looked for detailed photos of this area, but so far I haven't found what I'm
looking for.
Ideas?
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315610#315610
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/long_fuse_125.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stu Brown <stu_brown(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nylo-seal oil pressure line?Nylo-seal oil pressure |
line?
Plastic pressure lines should not be a problem. You are compressing oil
in the line. If hot oil is flowing through the line, that would be
something different. The line temperature will be what ever the ambient
temp is.
Stu Brown
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Willis <timothywillis(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel sump question |
Jack,
Having drains fore and aft is a great idea.
Re the inlet position vertically, better men than I should answer your question,
but I think you WANT to capture the water from your tank in your fuel line,
then drain it out at your low point-- the gascolator, fuel bowl, etc.
If you allow it to collect above a fitting, you may get a fair water accumulation
over time, and it could stay separated from the fuel for awhile in operation.
However imagine that it sloshes about, then enters the fuel line while
you are slipping to land but are short of the field, or you have just tilted
pre-flare for a landing, and will want a little burst of power for control, etc.
SPUT!!!
In other words your engine could sputter and die at just the wrong moment with
that setup. My 2 cents.
Tim in central TX
-----Original Message-----
From: Jack
Sent: Oct 12, 2010 7:36 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuel sump question
Checked the archives and found nice email from Chuck G that was helpful, but I
have another question. For my wing tank Im planning 2 fuel outlets, 1 front and
1 rear. On the rear edge of the tank I will also have a float gauge with a
sump drain and a machined sump bowl with a drain. Since the drains and the rear
fuel outlet are at the same level, Im wondering.For the fuel outlet should
I extend it into the tank a to be above any water that may be present. I understand
the drawback of decreasing my tank capacity. Any thoughts would certainly
be appreciated!
Thanks,
Jack
DSM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Long Fuse Center Strut Fitting |
| From: | "Bill Church" <billspiet(at)sympatico.ca> |
Mark,
Earlier this year, I built my fuselage sides, and documented what I did here:
http://mykitplane.com/Planes/buildLogReportDetail.cfm?BuildLogID=2535&PlaneID=510&FName=Bill&LName=Church&PlaneName=Air Camper
It isn't really clear in the plans, and I'm sure many builders have ended up with
the top cross members butting up against the metal cabane strut brackets, rather
than meeting the longeron. But, as best as I could figure it out, the cabane
strut mounting brackets should be mounted BEHIND the vertical spruce sticks.
Only the drawing for the long fuselage shows and refers to the "3/4" x 3"
filler for strut fitting". THAT is what the cabane strut mounting brackets should
be mounted to, and I believe there should also be another filler block for
the front brackets as well (to maintain correct spacing).
Bill C.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315648#315648
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Long Fuse Center Strut Fitting |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
Bill, the addition of a "3/4" x 3" filler for strut fitting" to the front makes
perfect sense for proper spacing. That is what I will do... I just wanted to
make sure that I was looking at the problem correctly.
Thanks!
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315650#315650
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel sump question |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
Jack, I am in full agreement with Tim on this. The idea behind the drains is so
that you can get the water out instead of leaving it behind in the tank. Checking
the fuel drains for water accumulation was one of the first things on the
checklist I used on the C-150/152's I learned to fly in back in the mid-'90's.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315652#315652
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harvey Rule <harvey.rule(at)bell.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel sump question |
Isn't this what the gascolator does and it should be mounted at the lowest
point below the carb from what I understand.
> Date: Wed=2C 13 Oct 2010 16:26:18 -0500
> From: timothywillis(at)earthlink.net
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fuel sump question
>
.net>
>
> Jack=2C
> Having drains fore and aft is a great idea.
>
> Re the inlet position vertically=2C better men than I should answer your
question=2C but I think you WANT to capture the water from your tank in you
r fuel line=2C then drain it out at your low point-- the gascolator=2C fuel
bowl=2C etc.
> If you allow it to collect above a fitting=2C you may get a fair water ac
cumulation over time=2C and it could stay separated from the fuel for awhil
e in operation. However imagine that it sloshes about=2C then enters the fu
el line while you are slipping to land but are short of the field=2C or you
have just tilted pre-flare for a landing=2C and will want a little burst o
f power for control=2C etc. SPUT!!!
> In other words your engine could sputter and die at just the wrong moment
with that setup. My 2 cents.
> Tim in central TX
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jack
> Sent: Oct 12=2C 2010 7:36 PM
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuel sump question
>
>
> Checked the archives and found nice email from Chuck G that was helpful
=2C but I have another question. For my wing tank I=92m planning 2 fuel out
lets=2C 1 front and 1 rear. On the rear edge of the tank I will also have a
float gauge with a sump drain and a machined sump bowl with a drain. Since
the drains and the rear fuel outlet are at the same level=2C I=92m wonderi
ng=85.For the fuel outlet should I extend it into the tank a =BC=94 to be a
bove any water that may be present. I understand the drawback of decreasing
my tank capacity. Any thoughts would certainly be appreciated!
> Thanks=2C
> Jack
> DSM
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel sump question |
| From: | "kevinpurtee" <kevin.purtee(at)us.army.mil> |
Gascolator works great for getting water out, even after 2 monsoons at Brodhead.
--------
Kevin Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315673#315673
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack" <jack(at)textors.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel sump question |
Tim, Billy and Harvey, thanks very much for your comments. Not sure I
detailed well enough. I do plan to have a gasolator with a drain (all
don=92t). Also I have two sumps in the tank to allow draining
accumulated
water hopefully before it enters the fuel line, the sump and drain at
the
bottom of my float gauge. The reason for my question initially was
because
of the design of the Stearman sump (picture attached). Note how the
sump is
below the actual intake level for the fuel. It=92s a great design but I
felt
too large for the Piet. If I can keep water out of the line before
going
through the gasolator and to the engine I think that=92s good. That=92s
all
about clear as mud.
Again I appreciate the help!
Jack
DSM
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jack
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 7:36 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuel sump question
Checked the archives and found nice email from Chuck G that was helpful,
but
I have another question. For my wing tank I=92m planning 2 fuel
outlets, 1
front and 1 rear. On the rear edge of the tank I will also have a float
gauge with a sump drain and a machined sump bowl with a drain. Since
the
drains and the rear fuel outlet are at the same level, I=92m
wondering=85.For
the fuel outlet should I extend it into the tank a =BC=94 to be above
any water
that may be present. I understand the drawback of decreasing my tank
capacity. Any thoughts would certainly be appreciated!
Thanks,
Jack
DSM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel sump question |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
Ah, now I see what you were talking about. A seperate small depression expressly
for catching water. This makes more sense, provided you drain this mini-sump
prior to each flight per the checklist. I can see how this setup could be
a good thing.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315682#315682
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | upcoming Corvair College #19 |
Pietenpoler P.F. Beck is hosting the upcoming "Corvair
College" in Barnwell, S.C. about a month from now.
Info on William Wynne's website, here:
http://www.flycorvair.com/hangar.html
Also on that page are pictures from the College
and California tour that just ended.
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Zinc coated t-nuts? |
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com> |
All, is it acceptable to use zinc coated t-nuts (aka nut plates?) to attach thing
to wood using screws? Will the nuts eventually rust?
Thanks,
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
yocum137(at)gmail.com
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Skip Gadd" <skipgadd(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Two Air Camper projects, now Felts field |
Rick,
I have two pictures of Lindbergh at Felts field in a book "The Spokane Aviation
Story" by J P McGoldrick II nether showing uncle Chuck or dad who would have
been 12 and 7 years old at the time.
Skip
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Holland
Sent: 10/12/2010 10:22:18 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Two Air Camper projects, now Felts field
That is really cool Skip, did they have any pictures of the event?
rick
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fuel sump question |
| From: | "Pieti Lowell" <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com> |
I had a Stearman fuel gauge that required a drain to keep moisture from freezing
and ruining the gauge. I tried to first locate it at the lower , rear position,
but it was , many times hit and damaged by passengers, so I moved it to the
forward location and found it also unacceptable, so a plug went into that outlet
and I have flown with only a rear outlet for the past 25 years without any
incidents.
Pieti Lowell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315776#315776
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Zinc coated t-nuts? |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
I think as long as you aren't using brass screws, I would think that you would
probably be ok using the zinc plated nuts. However I am neither a chemist or
an A&P, so this is just my opinion.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315781#315781
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Zinc coated t-nuts? |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Dan,
I used plenty of zinc-plated T nuts in mine. Not worried in the least, esp
ecially cause they ended up getting coated by T-88 and/or varnish also.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Thu, Oct 14, 2010 6:20 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Zinc coated t-nuts?
All, is it acceptable to use zinc coated t-nuts (aka nut plates?) to attac
h
hing to wood using screws? Will the nuts eventually rust?
Thanks,
an
--
an Yocum
ocum137(at)gmail.com
I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Zinc coated t-nuts? |
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com> |
Dan, Billy,
Thanks.
I'm in the process of replacing the top of my center section with a sheet of
aluminum and I'm going to use stainless screws and small tee nuts sunk into
the rib capstrip - these are the ribs sheeted in 1/16" ply so I won't be lo
sing much strength by drilling #6 holes through them.
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
yocum137(at)gmail.com
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
On Oct 15, 2010, at 6:21 AM, helspersew(at)aol.com wrote:
> Dan,
>
> I used plenty of zinc-plated T nuts in mine. Not worried in the least, esp
ecially cause they ended up getting coated by T-88 and/or varnish also.
>
> Dan Helsper
> Poplar Grove, IL.
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com>
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thu, Oct 14, 2010 6:20 pm
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Zinc coated t-nuts?
>
>
> All, is it acceptable to use zinc coated t-nuts (aka nut plates?) to attac
h
> thing to wood using screws? Will the nuts eventually rust?
>
> Thanks,
> Dan
>
> --
> Dan Yocum
> yocum137(at)gmail.com
> "I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
>
> =========================
> t" target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> =========================
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> =========================
> _blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> =========================
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | spoked rim sizes? |
| From: | "bubbleboy" <scott.dawson3(at)bigpond.com> |
Looking at my options for spoked wheels. Are the 19 or 21 inch better or is the
difference not worth worrying about? I have found some 21" wheels from a Harley
Davidson on Ebay which look ok.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/21-X-2-15-40-SPOKE-FRONT-WHEEL-fits-HARLEY-SOFTAIL-/310255208780?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item483ca6c94c
Is the width correct? I believe these come with a 1" bearing for the axle but I
see most are using a 1.5" axle on their builds?
I guess the bearings could be changed maybe?
Any feedback is appreciated.
Scotty
--------
Scotty
Tamworth, Australia
Building a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camper
www.scottyspietenpol.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315802#315802
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Zinc coated t-nuts? |
| From: | "pineymb" <airltd(at)mts.net> |
Just a suggestion but what I did was use 8/32 rivet nuts (knurled type) which pulled
and seated very nicely in the thin ply. Might be easier than installing
T-nuts. This also allows the aluminum cover to be made smaller leaving space for
the gap seals.
Screws along the leading and trailing edge are #8 x 1/2 stainless sheet metal screws
fasten directly into the spars.
--------
Adrian M
Winnipeg, MB
Canada
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315804#315804
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00055_784.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00053_766.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | spoked rim sizes? |
Scotty,
I don't know much about Harley's and what type of wheel a Softtail takes,
but those hubs look a little odd for our use (I could be wrong!). I used 21"
Sportster front wheels, which worked easily to adapt. The company I bought
them from, Paugcho, builds custom motorcycles and adapts all their wheels
for 1" axles. Using hollow axle material, you can easily step down to 1",
even if you start with 1.5". I don't think 19 vs 20 inch makes much
difference. Before building my gear, I bought the wheels so that I could
work that dimension in to the deck height / deck angle. You can check out
more about my gear at www.westcoatpiet.com (thanks Chris!). Best of luck to
you...
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, Running
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
21 ribs done
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bubbleboy
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 5:01 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: spoked rim sizes?
Looking at my options for spoked wheels. Are the 19 or 21 inch better or is
the difference not worth worrying about? I have found some 21" wheels from a
Harley Davidson on Ebay which look ok.
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/21-X-2-15-40-SPOKE-FRONT-WHEEL-fits-HARLEY-SOFTAIL-/3
10255208780?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item483ca6c94c
Is the width correct? I believe these come with a 1" bearing for the axle
but I see most are using a 1.5" axle on their builds?
I guess the bearings could be changed maybe?
Any feedback is appreciated.
Scotty
--------
Scotty
Tamworth, Australia
Building a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camper
www.scottyspietenpol.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315802#315802
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Wood for landing gear |
Crew, I have plenty of sitka spruce that I want to use for the landing gear, but
none of it is the required 1" thickness. I am thinking of gluing two pieces
together, (laminate) and then plane down to 1". Should I not do this, is it a
bad idea? Also, could I use some other glue to laminate the wood...I have some
Tite Bond that I use for my furniture and I will be stopping by my local Home
Depot after work if it is recommended to use something else. (Getting low on
T-88 and laminating the wood would use up quite a bit.) Thanks.
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Markle <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wood for landing gear |
I laminated mine as many others have and have never heard of any issues with it.
I used T88 but next time I would use something that will give you a dark line where
the lamination is....like Jack Phillips and Gary Boothe did on their laminations.
Looks neat.
Hey wait....wouldn't Gorilla Glue be a good option???? Virtually NO wasted "squeeze
out" and it just holds up amazingly well... (JUST KIDDING!)
jm
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Perez
Sent: Oct 15, 2010 9:00 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wood for landing gear
Crew, I have plenty of sitka spruce that I want to use for the landing gear, but
none of it is the required 1" thickness. I am thinking of gluing two pieces
together, (laminate) and then plane down to 1". Should I not do this, is it a
bad idea? Also, could I use some other glue to laminate the wood...I have some
Tite Bond that I use for my furniture and I will be stopping by my local Home
Depot after work if it is recommended to use something else. (Getting low on
T-88 and laminating the wood would use up quite a bit.) Thanks.
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Wood for landing gear |
Michael,
Quick question: What are the dimensions of the stock you have in hand?
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, Running
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
21 ribs done
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Perez
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 7:00 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wood for landing gear
Crew, I have plenty of sitka spruce that I want to use for the landing gear,
but none of it is the required 1" thickness. I am thinking of gluing two
pieces together, (laminate) and then plane down to 1". Should I not do this,
is it a bad idea? Also, could I use some other glue to laminate the wood...I
have some Tite Bond that I use for my furniture and I will be stopping by my
local Home Depot after work if it is recommended to use something else.
(Getting low on T-88 and laminating the wood would use up quite a bit.)
Thanks.
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Wood for landing gear |
I have a rough cut, slighty cupped piece of sitka about 8" wide and about 7
feet long. The rough cut thickness is about .800". (+/-)- By the time I
plane it down to remove the cup, I would guess it will be more like .600" o
r so. (guessing...don't have the board with me at work.)
Michael Perez
=0AKaretaker Aero
=0Awww.karetakeraero.com
--- On Fri, 10/15/10, Gary Boothe wrote:
From: Gary Boothe <gboothe5(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wood for landing gear
Date: Friday, October 15, 2010, 10:25 AM
=0A=0A=0A =0A =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0AMichael, =0A=0A - =0A=0AQuick question
:- What are the dimensions of the stock you=0Ahave in hand? =0A=0A -
=0A=0AGary Boothe =0A=0ACool, CA =0A=0APietenpol =0A=0AWW Corvair Conversio
n, Running =0A=0ATail done, Fuselage on gear =0A=0A21 ribs done =0A=0A -
=0A=0A=0A=0AFrom:=0Aowner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com=0A[mailto:own
er-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael=0APerez
=0ASent: Friday, October 15, 2010 7:00 AM
=0ATo: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
=0ASubject: Pietenpol-List: Wood for landing gear =0A=0A=0A=0A - =0A=0A
=0A =0A =0A Crew, I have plenty of sitka spruce that I want to use for=0A
the landing gear, but none of it is the required 1" thickness. I am=0A t
hinking of gluing two pieces together, (laminate) and then plane down to=0A
1". Should I not do this, is it a bad idea? Also, could I use some other
=0A glue to laminate the wood...I have some Tite Bond that I use for my fu
rniture=0A and I will be stopping by my local Home Depot after work if it
is recommended=0A to use something else. (Getting low on T-88 and laminati
ng the wood would use=0A up quite a bit.) Thanks.
=0A
=0A Michael Perez
=0A Karetaker Aero
=0A www.karetakeraero.com =0A =0A =0A=0A=0A - -http://www.matronics.c
om/Navigator?Pietenpol-Listhttp://forums.matronics.comhttp://www.matronics.
=========0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Wood for landing gear |
You're in great shape! Just rip the boards to a little over 1" and laminate
on edge! You'll just have more laminations.not a bad thing.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, Running
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
21 ribs done
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Perez
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 8:12 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wood for landing gear
I have a rough cut, slighty cupped piece of sitka about 8" wide and about 7
feet long. The rough cut thickness is about .800". (+/-) By the time I
plane it down to remove the cup, I would guess it will be more like .600" or
so. (guessing...don't have the board with me at work.)
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
--- On Fri, 10/15/10, Gary Boothe wrote:
From: Gary Boothe <gboothe5(at)comcast.net>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wood for landing gear
Date: Friday, October 15, 2010, 10:25 AM
Michael,
Quick question: What are the dimensions of the stock you have in hand?
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, Running
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
21 ribs done
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Perez
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 7:00 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wood for landing gear
Crew, I have plenty of sitka spruce that I want to use for the landing gear,
but none of it is the required 1" thickness. I am thinking of gluing two
pieces together, (laminate) and then plane down to 1". Should I not do this,
is it a bad idea? Also, could I use some other glue to laminate the wood...I
have some Tite Bond that I use for my furniture and I will be stopping by my
local Home Depot after work if it is recommended to use something else.
(Getting low on T-88 and laminating the wood would use up quite a bit.)
Thanks.
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
ank"
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.rel="nof
ollow" target="_blank"
href="http://forums.matronics.com">htt=======================
://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wood for landing gear |
| From: | "Bill Church" <billspiet(at)sympatico.ca> |
Nothing wrong with laminating.
In fact, because smaller pieces of wood are used, the likelihood of hidden defects
in the wood is lower. As long as the glue joint is as strong or stronger than
the wood, the finished piece will be the same.
You should make sure that the glue you use is waterproof, so regular Tite-Bond
isn't the best idea. But Tite-Bond III should be okay for this application -
it IS waterproof.
Bill C.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315851#315851
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Wood for landing gear |
Thanks all for the advise. I will be acquiring the proper water proof/exter
ior type glue and start my- wood landing gear today!
Michael Perez
=0AKaretaker Aero
=0Awww.karetakeraero.com
--- On Fri, 10/15/10, Bill Church wrote:
From: Bill Church <billspiet(at)sympatico.ca>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wood for landing gear
Date: Friday, October 15, 2010, 12:07 PM
>
Nothing wrong with laminating.
In fact, because smaller pieces of wood are used, the likelihood of hidden
defects in the wood is lower. As long as the glue joint is as strong or str
onger than the wood, the finished piece will be the same.
You should make sure that the glue you use is waterproof, so regular Tite-B
ond- isn't the best idea. But Tite-Bond III should be okay for this appli
cation - it IS waterproof.
Bill C.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315851#315851
le, List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | a little wiring tip |
http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=595153256001
In case you didn't already know this=2C or forgot it- good to know when you
're running your wiring.
Oscar Zuniga
Flying Squirrel N2069Z=2C on the gear
Air Camper NX41CC=2C flying
San Antonio=2C TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Transition Training |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
I am a long way from transitioning to flight in my Piet, but I'm curious about
the need or requirements for transition training. I know that each insurance
company is probably a little different on their requirements for coverage, but
a friend of mine just finished his Zenair 640 and was surprised to learn that
this particular agency (through the EAA) was requiring 5 hours of time in MAKE
(not type) with a factory rep, and a signoff from the rep. He asked, "Can't
I just fly with a CFI in a Cherokee 180, or something similar?" They said nope,
it has to be in something that Zenair manufactured... either a 750, 601, etc.
He said, "What? Those airplanes aren't even similar to what I'll be flying."
They didn't seem to care, Factory airplane and factory rep. signoff... those
are the criteria. He asked when this became a requirement and was told that
it is becoming widely accepted practice with the insurance companies. :-(
I started thinking... how in the world would I find someone who could be considered
to be the Pietenpol manufacturer? Even if I could, I am unable to ride in
the front seat of one of these birds... how would I receive training or a sign
off? What about a Cassut or a Fly Baby? How does someone even get training
in those types? Is my friend being misinformed? Surely there is some latitude,
or similar training that would allow one to fly their new machine?
This friend is somewhat well off with a nicely build airplane and 450+ hours.
If it is this difficult for him, I dreading the day the I make the same call.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315863#315863
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Perry Rhoads" <prhoads61(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training |
Mark,
I think your friend has been given very inaccurate information or got the
requirements wrong. A "factory rep" for a sign off makes no sense. Call
someone in the business with your set of variables and get the right facts.
You'll find it's not that difficult.
Perry Rhoads
N12939
----- Original Message -----
From: "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net>
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 1:01 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Transition Training
>
> I am a long way from transitioning to flight in my Piet, but I'm curious
> about the need or requirements for transition training. I know that each
> insurance company is probably a little different on their requirements for
> coverage, but a friend of mine just finished his Zenair 640 and was
> surprised to learn that this particular agency (through the EAA) was
> requiring 5 hours of time in MAKE (not type) with a factory rep, and a
> signoff from the rep. He asked, "Can't I just fly with a CFI in a
> Cherokee 180, or something similar?" They said nope, it has to be in
> something that Zenair manufactured... either a 750, 601, etc. He said,
> "What? Those airplanes aren't even similar to what I'll be flying." They
> didn't seem to care, Factory airplane and factory rep. signoff... those
> are the criteria. He asked when this became a requirement and was told
> that it is becoming widely accepted practice with the insurance companies.
> :-(
>
> I started thinking... how in the world would I find someone who could be
> considered to be the Pietenpol manufacturer? Even if I could, I am unable
> to ride in the front seat of one of these birds... how would I receive
> training or a sign off? What about a Cassut or a Fly Baby? How does
> someone even get training in those types? Is my friend being misinformed?
> Surely there is some latitude, or similar training that would allow one to
> fly their new machine?
>
> This friend is somewhat well off with a nicely build airplane and 450+
> hours. If it is this difficult for him, I dreading the day the I make the
> same call.
>
> --------
> Mark Chouinard
> Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315863#315863
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
I don't think my friend intentionally gave me inaccurate information... rather,
he repeated what he was told by an insurance rep. yesterday afternoon. I'll
agree with you that it makes no sense, but I'm only stating it here because we
were both wondering if anyone else had heard of this kind of requirement.
His aircraft is getting it's final inspection today. In fact, he should have his
airworthiness certificate in hand by now, but, according to the insurance rep.,
he won't be allowed to fly his airplane until he has been checked out by
a Factory rep... 5 hours logged flight time and a signature stating that he has
received training and is competent in a factory airframe.
I agree that it sounds stupid, but again, I'm just wondering if anyone else has
had a similar experience?
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315882#315882
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Model A disassembly, Chapter 1 |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Well, today I finally had a chance to remove my engine from the airframe,
and begin the process of disassembly to see how bad the damage is. After
consulting some knowledgeable people, my fears have been somewhat abated,
in that the consensus is that since the cam gear was soft aluminum, the
damage to bearings and such would probably be minimal, if at all. So I am
approaching this project from the standpoint of cleaning and removing all
of the big chunks of aluminum, and then sucking/cleaning/removing all of
the small aluminum shavings from the engine, without complete disassembly
of the entire engine. The attached photos show a lot of aluminum shavings
and chunks, but keep in mind that the vast majority of these were surely
confined to the bottom of the oil pan until I turned the engine over on
my stand as you see it.
Any and all commentary will be appreciated, whether it is in agreement wit
h my approach or not. Thanks.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Model A, more pics |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training |
Well if it has to be in make, not model, the builder is the make.- Ours i
s a Bell Aircamper, something must be confused there, but this day in age w
ho knows?
-
Shad
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
That sounds ridiculous, like there is some miscommunication happening
regarding the type and status of the aircraft he built. I would try to speak
to someone higher up with that insurance company, and if they spout the same
BS then dump then and find a new insurer. If they're going to be that
non-sensical at this point in the process, then I wouldn't want to deal with
them if it ever came time to file a claim.
Ryan
On Fri, Oct 15, 2010 at 3:25 PM, K5YAC wrote:
>
> I don't think my friend intentionally gave me inaccurate information...
> rather, he repeated what he was told by an insurance rep. yesterday
> afternoon. I'll agree with you that it makes no sense, but I'm only stating
> it here because we were both wondering if anyone else had heard of this kind
> of requirement.
>
> His aircraft is getting it's final inspection today. In fact, he should
> have his airworthiness certificate in hand by now, but, according to the
> insurance rep., he won't be allowed to fly his airplane until he has been
> checked out by a Factory rep... 5 hours logged flight time and a signature
> stating that he has received training and is competent in a factory
> airframe.
>
> I agree that it sounds stupid, but again, I'm just wondering if anyone else
> has had a similar experience?
>
> --------
> Mark Chouinard
> Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315882#315882
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Model A disassembly, Chapter 1 |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
Given that the aluminum is much softer than most of the other metals in your engine,
and also that you think that the vast majority was confined to the oil pan
until you flipped it on the engine stand, I agree with your assessment of not
completely disassembling the engine. Just make darn sure that the screen on
the oil pump is thoroughly cleaned so that oil starvation does not occur at
a later time. Also check the bottoms of your piston skirts if you can to make
sure that no slivers of the cam gear have attached or embedded themselves, which
can cause galling.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315895#315895
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training |
| From: | "peterk48" <peterk48(at)msn.com> |
Call another insurance company. I've never had one act like that with certified
or experimental. Don't forget, many aircraft owners self-insure, in other words,
don't buy any. Some states don't require that you do.
--------
Pete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315896#315896
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training |
| From: | "Dan P" <dlplett(at)swko.net> |
I've heard of other kit manufactures that give dual training to qualify the pilot
for solo. If you live close they will train you in your airplane. If you
live at a distance you can go to them and use one of their airplanes. Now a
factory representative 'could be' a local CFI that the manufacturer authorizes
to give training. Which would then meet the requirements of the insurance company.
The Zenair is a kit airplane and of course the Piet isn't. So it seems the insurance
companies view them differently and the requirements are different and
do vary from company to company.
I already had a Private Pilots License and tail wheel endorsement. The insurance
company I went with required me to have 10 hrs of dual and a minimum of 20
take offs and landings to a full stop before solo. The dual was to be with an
approved CFI with tail wheel experience. I petitioned and was approved dual
training with an experience ~400 hr non CFI Piet Pilot.
--------
Dan Plett
N28WH
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315901#315901
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training |
| From: | "kevinpurtee" <kevin.purtee(at)us.army.mil> |
For what it's worth: my insurance company required 25 hours total in a Piet and
10 hours with a CFI in a piet (or something along those lines - don't remember
exactly) for 1st flight coverage. I told her that was impossible. She apologized
and told me that's the way it was. I asked how many hours I needed before
I checked back. She said 25. I called back when I had 50 hours and they
insured me. I "self-insured" up to that point.
The only reason I have insurance is to fly Young Eagles. Liability only.
--------
Kevin Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315904#315904
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Lycoming O-235 about ready |
| From: | "Jerry Dotson" <jdotson(at)centurylink.net> |
My engine is almost ready to run. Several loose ends on it yet. I just hung the
mags and valve covers on it. I have been working on that thing for a month now.
I got the wrong main bearings and had to exchange them but that didn't really
cost much time. I got my prop from Jay Anderson and it looks real good. Now
if I just had an airplane to hang all this stuff on............
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
Started building NX510JD July, 2009
wing, tailfeathers done
using Lycoming O-235
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315907#315907
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/o_235_185.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training |
I had a similar initial stipulation quoted by the EAA. I called them
and asked about first flight insurance. At the time I had 170 hours in
a Baby Ace, but there were no Pietenpols available to get any dual time
with a CFI. THey said if I participated in the EAA Flight Advisor
program, they would waive the requirement. That's what I did.
Ben Charvet
Mims, Fl
On 10/15/2010 2:01 PM, K5YAC wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "K5YAC"
>
> I am a long way from transitioning to flight in my Piet, but I'm curious about
the need or requirements for transition training. I know that each insurance
company is probably a little different on their requirements for coverage, but
a friend of mine just finished his Zenair 640 and was surprised to learn that
this particular agency (through the EAA) was requiring 5 hours of time in MAKE
(not type) with a factory rep, and a signoff from the rep. He asked, "Can't
I just fly with a CFI in a Cherokee 180, or something similar?" They said
nope, it has to be in something that Zenair manufactured... either a 750, 601,
etc. He said, "What? Those airplanes aren't even similar to what I'll be flying."
They didn't seem to care, Factory airplane and factory rep. signoff...
those are the criteria. He asked when this became a requirement and was told
that it is becoming widely accepted practice with the insurance companies. :-(
>
> I started thinking... how in the world would I find someone who could be considered
to be the Pietenpol manufacturer? Even if I could, I am unable to ride
in the front seat of one of these birds... how would I receive training or a
sign off? What about a Cassut or a Fly Baby? How does someone even get training
in those types? Is my friend being misinformed? Surely there is some latitude,
or similar training that would allow one to fly their new machine?
>
> This friend is somewhat well off with a nicely build airplane and 450+ hours.
If it is this difficult for him, I dreading the day the I make the same call.
>
> --------
> Mark Chouinard
> Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315863#315863
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Model A disassembly, Chapter 1 |
| From: | "Jerry Dotson" <jdotson(at)centurylink.net> |
Dan,
I would pull at the very least 1 rod and 1 main closest to the pump. I don't know
how much of your engine is pressure oiled. I also assume you have only screens
to catch the trash. I have no experience on "A" engines though I made a living
on heavy stationary engines 41 years. If it were mine I would totally disassemble
it and wash it with a solvent and then soap and a pressure washer.
That is how I prepped my O-235. It only has screens.
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
Started building NX510JD July, 2009
wing, tailfeathers done
using Lycoming O-235
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315913#315913
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <r.r.hall(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Model A disassembly, Chapter 1 |
I would also completely disassemble it. Who knows what bits and pieces are in oil
passages and under bearings.
Rodney
---- Jerry Dotson wrote:
>
> Dan,
> I would pull at the very least 1 rod and 1 main closest to the pump. I don't
know how much of your engine is pressure oiled. I also assume you have only screens
to catch the trash. I have no experience on "A" engines though I made a
living on heavy stationary engines 41 years. If it were mine I would totally disassemble
it and wash it with a solvent and then soap and a pressure washer.
That is how I prepped my O-235. It only has screens.
>
> --------
> Jerry Dotson
> 59 Daniel Johnson Rd
> Baker, FL 32531
>
> Started building NX510JD July, 2009
> wing, tailfeathers done
> using Lycoming O-235
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315913#315913
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Wood for landing gear |
I laminated mine out of =BC=94 planks of spruce, using resorcinol glue.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Perez
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 10:00 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wood for landing gear
Crew, I have plenty of sitka spruce that I want to use for the landing
gear,
but none of it is the required 1" thickness. I am thinking of gluing two
pieces together, (laminate) and then plane down to 1". Should I not do
this,
is it a bad idea? Also, could I use some other glue to laminate the
wood...I
have some Tite Bond that I use for my furniture and I will be stopping
by my
local Home Depot after work if it is recommended to use something else.
(Getting low on T-88 and laminating the wood would use up quite a bit.)
Thanks.
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Another Regulatory Topic |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
Simple question... MUST an engine have a data plate?
Same friend that I mentioned earlier with he Zenair 640 insurance problem... he
failed his inspection today because his engine (an IO-360 made up from various
parts with logs) does not have a data plate. It is an experimental engine (one
that he and an engine builder assembled) mounted on his experimental aircraft.
They (the inspectors - yes, there were more than one) required him to contact
the builder and request the data plate, along with a written and signed
affidavit that he built the engine. Is this crazy or correct?
A group of us eat dinner together on Friday nights and no one thought that it was
mandatory for an engine to have a data plate... even if it were a factory engine.
I seem to remember reading somewhere that a person could, if he so chooses,
remove the data plate from a certified engine and call it experimental.
Oh, sure... the value decreases greatly, but it is perfectly legal, right?
If a data plate IS required, how do us car engine guys get around this requirement?
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315925#315925
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <r.r.hall(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Regulatory Topic |
It would only make sense if he put in his paperwork that he was using a "certified"
engine. If the engine had no data plate it could be called a experimental
engine i suppose even though it was a IO-360. That would require a 40 hour fly
off. Without being there I can't tell but if he was presenting it as a certified
engine with previous logs then he needed a data plate. That is not to say
that he was not a victim of the many inequalities in inspections and enforcement
by the FAA. Just my opinion.
Rodney
---- K5YAC wrote:
>
> Simple question... MUST an engine have a data plate?
>
> Same friend that I mentioned earlier with he Zenair 640 insurance problem...
he failed his inspection today because his engine (an IO-360 made up from various
parts with logs) does not have a data plate. It is an experimental engine
(one that he and an engine builder assembled) mounted on his experimental aircraft.
They (the inspectors - yes, there were more than one) required him to contact
the builder and request the data plate, along with a written and signed
affidavit that he built the engine. Is this crazy or correct?
>
> A group of us eat dinner together on Friday nights and no one thought that it
was mandatory for an engine to have a data plate... even if it were a factory
engine. I seem to remember reading somewhere that a person could, if he so chooses,
remove the data plate from a certified engine and call it experimental.
Oh, sure... the value decreases greatly, but it is perfectly legal, right?
>
> If a data plate IS required, how do us car engine guys get around this requirement?
>
> --------
> Mark Chouinard
> Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315925#315925
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: spoked rim sizes? |
| From: | "bubbleboy" <scott.dawson3(at)bigpond.com> |
Hi Gary...yes I see what you mean about the hub difference between the 2 models.
Your right... the Sportster model looks more functional I would think. Thanks
for pointing that out. I had a look on Ebay and there are many for sale due
to people "tarting" up their bikes with custom wheels. Our gain maybe!
Can I ask what diameter axle you are using? 1 or 1.5 inch? Are you running bike
tubes and tyres or something aviation related?
Thanks for your input.
Scotty
--------
Scotty
Tamworth, Australia
Building a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camper
www.scottyspietenpol.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315928#315928
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: spoked rim sizes? |
Scotty,
I stepped down my axle 2 times to get to 1". The set-up was inspired by Dick
Navatril. When you get to that last pipe, make sure to be slightly under 1",
or you'll have to do some 'machining.' Tires and tubes are right out of the
MC catalogue, though others have talked about 'shaving' their tires smooth.
These Sportster wheels have 5 threaded holes on each side that are
particularly useful for mounting brake drums.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, Running
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
21 ribs done
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bubbleboy
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 8:03 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: spoked rim sizes?
Hi Gary...yes I see what you mean about the hub difference between the 2
models. Your right... the Sportster model looks more functional I would
think. Thanks for pointing that out. I had a look on Ebay and there are many
for sale due to people "tarting" up their bikes with custom wheels. Our gain
maybe!
Can I ask what diameter axle you are using? 1 or 1.5 inch? Are you running
bike tubes and tyres or something aviation related?
Thanks for your input.
Scotty
--------
Scotty
Tamworth, Australia
Building a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camper
www.scottyspietenpol.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315928#315928
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: spoked rim sizes? |
| From: | "bubbleboy" <scott.dawson3(at)bigpond.com> |
Hi Gary...what do you mean by stepping it down? Did you use a solid axle and have
it turned down or tube and slide one in side the other. I cant get on the West
Coat Piet site for some reason to have a look at your pics.
Scotty
--------
Scotty
Tamworth, Australia
Building a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camper
www.scottyspietenpol.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315935#315935
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another Regulatory Topic |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
To my understanding, if an engine is to be used on a certified aircraft (per
whatever was on the TC) then the engine must be a certified engine of the
proper type, and a data plate on the engine as part of the paperwork trail
for the engine (combined with logs).
If you decide to take that certified engine and power your one off Okiepol
design with it, you can retain it's value as a certified engine by leaving
the data plate on it and continuing to maintain it as the certified engine
that it is (proper maintenance, comply with any ADs, etc).
If you want to have your certified engine be experimental like your
airplane, and mod/maintain/etc as you wish, then you can remove the data
plate and operate it as a Chouinard-200. If I recall, once you remove the
data plate and go down that road the engine is pretty well experimental for
the rest of it's life, because you would have to recertify the engine to
return it to certified status.
Should be no requirement for a data plate for experimental engines....so
Corvaircrafters need not worry about it.
Did your friend hire inspectors that work part-time for his asinine
insurance agency? :P
Have a good weekend,
Ryan
On Fri, Oct 15, 2010 at 9:08 PM, K5YAC wrote:
>
> Simple question... MUST an engine have a data plate?
>
> Same friend that I mentioned earlier with he Zenair 640 insurance
> problem... he failed his inspection today because his engine (an IO-360 made
> up from various parts with logs) does not have a data plate. It is an
> experimental engine (one that he and an engine builder assembled) mounted on
> his experimental aircraft. They (the inspectors - yes, there were more than
> one) required him to contact the builder and request the data plate, along
> with a written and signed affidavit that he built the engine. Is this crazy
> or correct?
>
> A group of us eat dinner together on Friday nights and no one thought that
> it was mandatory for an engine to have a data plate... even if it were a
> factory engine. I seem to remember reading somewhere that a person could,
> if he so chooses, remove the data plate from a certified engine and call it
> experimental. Oh, sure... the value decreases greatly, but it is perfectly
> legal, right?
>
> If a data plate IS required, how do us car engine guys get around this
> requirement?
>
> --------
> Mark Chouinard
> Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315925#315925
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: spoked rim sizes? |
Scotty,
By 'stepping down', I mean that I started with a thick wall 1 1/2" pipe,
chose another thick walled pipe that would fit inside (about 24" long), that
had an inside diameter close to 1" then chose another pipe that would fit
inside (about 24" long) that would work for the actual axel for the
bearings. The wheels are held on with a simple collar with a #3 bolt through
it. Hope that helps....
More importantly...you can't get on www.westcoastpiet.com??? GOOD HEAVENS,
MAN! How are you able to complete anything? ;-)
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, Running
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
21 ribs done
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bubbleboy
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2010 9:16 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: spoked rim sizes?
Hi Gary...what do you mean by stepping it down? Did you use a solid axle and
have it turned down or tube and slide one in side the other. I cant get on
the West Coat Piet site for some reason to have a look at your pics.
Scotty
--------
Scotty
Tamworth, Australia
Building a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camper
www.scottyspietenpol.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315935#315935
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Model A, more pics |
| From: | "j_dunavin" <j_dunavin(at)hotmail.com> |
ooops!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315954#315954
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | throttle and brakes |
| From: | "skellytown flyer" <skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com> |
Well I am finally getting a little progress on my left brake on my project- they
are old 1947 dated multiple segment Hayes brakes with a rubber expansion bladder
and Gerdes master cylinders attached to the rudder pedals. I am wondering
if that style piston master cylinder has enough volume to really expand the old
brakes enough. the right one worked fairly well but the left one wouldn't.
I just finished putting .025" shims under most of the shoe segments on that side
and got them to work though the drum does get kinda warm after extended taxi.
if it doesn't break in soon I guess I'll do something else.also the Stromberg
has a bad dead spot. as it comes off idle. it was rebuilt according to the
tag that I got with DJ's paperwork.looks nice and clean inside but I have a hard
time getting it to take throttle especially till it warms up real good.once
it is past maybe a 1/2" on the lever it goes ahead and runs up great. and I have
played with the idle screw and probably have it at 1 3/4 turns out now.no
real improvement- seemed to run worse at 2 1/2 turns.it is mounted with the bowl
side against the firewall and the throttle shaft forward. I thought that could
possibly be an issue with the tail down, but raising the tail doesn't seem
to help. also I can hit the primer when it's stumbling and trying to take power
and it kills it so that tells me it is rich rather than lean at that point.sometimes
pulling carb heat seemed to help some but there sure isn't any icing
here with the humidity as low as it is in the Texas panhandle right now.the mixture
is wired full rich.it runs plenty strong if you can get it to go past the
dead spot.just wondering if any of you have run into similar issues with your
Stromberg? Raymond
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315983#315983
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: throttle and brakes |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
Raymond,
If I recall correctly, DJ had an Aero-Carb initially, and apparently changed
to the Stromberg. Do you know who overhauled it, and if they overhauled it
with the Corvair application in mind (that can matter)?
Ryan
On Sat, Oct 16, 2010 at 5:27 PM, skellytown flyer wrote:
> skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com>
>
> Well I am finally getting a little progress on my left brake on my project-
> they are old 1947 dated multiple segment Hayes brakes with a rubber
> expansion bladder and Gerdes master cylinders attached to the rudder pedals.
> I am wondering if that style piston master cylinder has enough volume to
> really expand the old brakes enough. the right one worked fairly well but
> the left one wouldn't. I just finished putting .025" shims under most of the
> shoe segments on that side and got them to work though the drum does get
> kinda warm after extended taxi. if it doesn't break in soon I guess I'll do
> something else.also the Stromberg has a bad dead spot. as it comes off idle.
> it was rebuilt according to the tag that I got with DJ's paperwork.looks
> nice and clean inside but I have a hard time getting it to take throttle
> especially till it warms up real good.once it is past maybe a 1/2" on the
> lever it goes ahead and runs up great. and I have played with the idle screw
> and probably have it !
> at 1 3/4 turns out now.no real improvement- seemed to run worse at 2 1/2
> turns.it is mounted with the bowl side against the firewall and the
> throttle shaft forward. I thought that could possibly be an issue with the
> tail down, but raising the tail doesn't seem to help. also I can hit the
> primer when it's stumbling and trying to take power and it kills it so that
> tells me it is rich rather than lean at that point.sometimes pulling carb
> heat seemed to help some but there sure isn't any icing here with the
> humidity as low as it is in the Texas panhandle right now.the mixture is
> wired full rich.it runs plenty strong if you can get it to go past the
> dead spot.just wondering if any of you have run into similar issues with
> your Stromberg? Raymond
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315983#315983
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: throttle and brakes |
| From: | "skellytown flyer" <skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com> |
Well I have not been able to contact DJ lately- he may have changed his address.
but I have a yellow tag from a shop in Conroe Texas dated 10-1-01 that states
they overhauled and tested a Sromberg for C90-12F ,in accordance with NA-S3A1
service manual for Stromberg Carburetors. I guess I could go back and remove
it and make sure the serial number matches. I did not do that/otherwise I had
a theory that maybe it's a little rich and the only way to lower the float level
in them I can see is to add a thicker washer under the seat. the old brass
floats are heavy duty and not made to bend to adjust.I am not getting the idle
screw to help as far as doing away with the dead spot.Raymond
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315985#315985
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: spoked rim sizes? |
| From: | "bubbleboy" <scott.dawson3(at)bigpond.com> |
Hi Gary....sounds like a good idea. Will look into some thing like that.
Looking at the Sportster rims, did you use the 2.15" or the 2.5" wide? I think
I like the 2.5" although would add to the weight I would imagine.
Just looking on a web site, it appears the Sportsters from 2008 on wards came out
with 1" bearings rather than the 3/4".
Scotty
--------
Scotty
Tamworth, Australia
Building a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camper
www.scottyspietenpol.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315989#315989
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: spoked rim sizes? |
Scotty,
Mine are 2 1/2" rims.
I forgot to mention...on the axle, the first step down is welded to the main
axel by drilling a 1/4" hole in the main axle to expose the first piece. I
then could weld that piece to the main axle and fill the hole with weld.
The second piece, the one that is the axle thru the wheel bearing is
thru-bolted to the main axle and the step-down. That way, if I have under
engineered the axle, I can un-bolt it, slide it out, and replace with a
solid axle.
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, Running!
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(21 ribs down.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of bubbleboy
Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2010 4:59 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: spoked rim sizes?
Hi Gary....sounds like a good idea. Will look into some thing like that.
Looking at the Sportster rims, did you use the 2.15" or the 2.5" wide? I
think I like the 2.5" although would add to the weight I would imagine.
Just looking on a web site, it appears the Sportsters from 2008 on wards
came out with 1" bearings rather than the 3/4".
Scotty
--------
Scotty
Tamworth, Australia
Building a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camper
www.scottyspietenpol.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315989#315989
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: spoked rim sizes? |
| From: | "bubbleboy" <scott.dawson3(at)bigpond.com> |
Thanks Gary...I appreciate your time in explaining your method. great help ...Thanks
mate!
Scotty :P
--------
Scotty
Tamworth, Australia
Building a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camper
www.scottyspietenpol.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316008#316008
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Zinc coated t-nuts? |
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com> |
Adrian,
I didn't even think of rivet nuts - wish I had since had take off one edge of the
tee to get them to fit in the capstrip butted up against the ply.
Do you have pictures of how you handle leading edge of the panel? Is it just flat
against the wing leading edge? Are you concerned at all about water getting
into the wing?
Thanks,
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
yocum137(at)gmail.com
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
On Oct 15, 2010, at 7:08 AM, pineymb wrote:
>
> Just a suggestion but what I did was use 8/32 rivet nuts (knurled type) which
pulled and seated very nicely in the thin ply. Might be easier than installing
T-nuts. This also allows the aluminum cover to be made smaller leaving space
for the gap seals.
> Screws along the leading and trailing edge are #8 x 1/2 stainless sheet metal
screws fasten directly into the spars.
>
> --------
> Adrian M
> Winnipeg, MB
> Canada
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315804#315804
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00055_784.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00053_766.jpg
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Transition Training |
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com> |
Mark,
I got my insurance through the EAA guys (Falcon). The requirements for me were
as follows: TW endorsement, 10hrs dual with a CFI in my aircraft (type might
be acceptable, too), 10hrs solo in my aircraft, then I could take passengers.
You, the CFI, and the plane are all covered during the period.
Things have changed in the industry since the failure of the banks and bailout
of AIG.
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
yocum137(at)gmail.com
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
On Oct 15, 2010, at 1:01 PM, K5YAC wrote:
>
> I am a long way from transitioning to flight in my Piet, but I'm curious about
the need or requirements for transition training. I know that each insurance
company is probably a little different on their requirements for coverage, but
a friend of mine just finished his Zenair 640 and was surprised to learn that
this particular agency (through the EAA) was requiring 5 hours of time in MAKE
(not type) with a factory rep, and a signoff from the rep. He asked, "Can't
I just fly with a CFI in a Cherokee 180, or something similar?" They said
nope, it has to be in something that Zenair manufactured... either a 750, 601,
etc. He said, "What? Those airplanes aren't even similar to what I'll be flying."
They didn't seem to care, Factory airplane and factory rep. signoff...
those are the criteria. He asked when this became a requirement and was told
that it is becoming widely accepted practice with the insurance companies. :-(
>
> I started thinking... how in the world would I find someone who could be considered
to be the Pietenpol manufacturer? Even if I could, I am unable to ride
in the front seat of one of these birds... how would I receive training or a
sign off? What about a Cassut or a Fly Baby? How does someone even get training
in those types? Is my friend being misinformed? Surely there is some latitude,
or similar training that would allow one to fly their new machine?
>
> This friend is somewhat well off with a nicely build airplane and 450+ hours.
If it is this difficult for him, I dreading the day the I make the same call.
>
> --------
> Mark Chouinard
> Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming O-235 about ready |
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum137(at)gmail.com> |
Of course, I call BS.
More like you need a *motor mount* to hang the engine on that piece art you've
got going.
;-)
Dan
--
Dan Yocum
yocum137(at)gmail.com
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
On Oct 15, 2010, at 6:42 PM, Jerry Dotson wrote:
>
> My engine is almost ready to run. Several loose ends on it yet. I just hung
the mags and valve covers on it. I have been working on that thing for a month
now. I got the wrong main bearings and had to exchange them but that didn't really
cost much time. I got my prop from Jay Anderson and it looks real good.
Now if I just had an airplane to hang all this stuff on............
>
> --------
> Jerry Dotson
> 59 Daniel Johnson Rd
> Baker, FL 32531
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "tkreiner" <tkreiner(at)gmail.com> |
Guys,
In looking for 1.5mm plywood, I called Boulter Plywood and asked for 1.5mm Okume
plywood, and they gave me a price of $49 per 4x8 sheet. Since I had seen their
ad earlier this year for $29 for the same sheets, I was sorry that I had missed
the sale. So I searched and came across a site that has 1.5 mm Aircraft
Birch Plywood in 4.4 sheets - Plywood & Door, with several locations around the
US. Their cost is $23. per sheet, which translates to $46 for a 4 x 8. (Add
shipping and you have a pretty steep price.)
I mentioned this to Dick Navratil, and lamented the fact that I didn't jump on
the sale that Boulter Plywood listed in Sport Aviation. Dick emailed me back
the next day to tell me the ad was still there and current.
So, I called Boulter Friday afternoon, and told them I just saw the ad in the current
Sport Aviation, and they extended the price to me at $29 per sheet.
After they took the order they called back late in the afternoon, and said if I
wanted to add to the order they would extend the price, but they were going to
contact EAA on Monday - tomorrow - and rescind the price.
So, if you need gusset material, NOW is the time to jump on this and let them know
you just saw the ad, and want to place an order.
Please, however, do not mention this post, or my name, as I don't want my order
upset.
Best luck to all!
--------
Tom Kreiner
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316034#316034
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Zinc coated t-nuts? |
| From: | "pineymb" <airltd(at)mts.net> |
Dan
What I did was put a slight kink on all edges which makes for a wrinkle free and
fairly snug fit. Should be no problems with water especially in static mode.
I suppose one could put a very thin gasket material all around if moisture was
a concern.
--------
Adrian M
Winnipeg, MB
Canada
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316043#316043
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00231_937.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00230_295.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | norm <coevst(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 1.5mm Plywood |
There is a fellow at Boulter that is a bit fast ,,,, watch for damaged good
s =0Awhitch he will pawn off on you at least if you are a walk in customer.
...=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0AFrom: tkreiner <tkrein
er(at)gmail.com>=0ATo: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com=0ASent: Sun, October 17, 2
010 9:41:31 AM=0ASubject: Pietenpol-List: 1.5mm Plywood=0A=0A--> Pietenpol-
List message posted by: "tkreiner" =0A=0AGuys,=0A=0AIn
looking for 1.5mm plywood, I called Boulter Plywood and asked for 1.5mm Oku
me =0Aplywood, and they gave me a price of $49 per 4x8 sheet.- Since I ha
d seen their =0Aad earlier this year for $29 for the same sheets, I was sor
ry that I had missed =0Athe sale.- So I searched and came across a site t
hat has 1.5 mm Aircraft Birch =0APlywood in 4.4 sheets - Plywood & Door, wi
th several locations around the US.- =0ATheir cost is $23. per sheet, whi
ch translates to $46 for a 4 x 8.- (Add =0Ashipping and you have a pretty
steep price.)=0A=0AI mentioned this to Dick Navratil, and lamented the fac
t that I didn't jump on =0Athe sale that Boulter Plywood listed in Sport Av
iation.- Dick emailed me back =0Athe next day to tell me the ad was still
there and current.- =0A=0A=0ASo, I called Boulter Friday afternoon, and
told them I just saw the ad in the =0Acurrent Sport Aviation, and they exte
nded the price to me at $29 per sheet.=0A=0AAfter they took the order they
called back late in the afternoon, and said if I =0Awanted to add to the or
der they would extend the price, but they were going to =0Acontact EAA on M
onday - tomorrow - and rescind the price.=0A=0ASo, if you need gusset mater
ial, NOW is the time to jump on this and let them =0Aknow you just saw the
ad, and want to place an order.=0A=0APlease, however, do not mention this p
ost, or my name, as I don't want my order =0Aupset.=0A=0ABest luck to all!
=0A=0A--------=0ATom Kreiner=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A
=0Ahttp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316034#316034=0A=0A=0A=0A
=========================0A
===================0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
Raymond wrote:
>I am not getting the idle screw to help as far as
>doing away with the dead spot.
If you look at the way the Stromberg carb is set up, you'll
see that the idle circuit opens up into the throat of the
carb right where the throttle butterfly plate contacts the
wall of the throat. In fact, when you pull back the throttle
all the way back to idle, that's the only time there is
enough 'signal' for the carb to pull fuel through that
circuit. You can see this by looking at Neal Wright's
diagram of the carb fuel circuits on pg. 2, here:
http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/Stromberg%20stuff.pdf
and the idle fuel circuit is sort of in violet.
By design, then, adjusting the idle mixture screw
should only affect the engine operation when the throttle
is at idle and your problem is not at idle... it's in the
first opening of the throttle as you come off of idle.
>From Harry Fenton, on the FlyBaby site: "Your stumble is
probably due to blocked or obstructed bleed hole. If one
of the bleed holes which serves as the transition from idle
to higher power settings is blocked, the engine will stumble.
Another possibility is that the holes where the throttle shaft
passes through the carb body are worn. If too much air is
pulled through the holes, then the mixture will lean out and
the carb will stumble until more fuel is available. If the
engine was previously used on a homebuilt, then perhaps the
carb air box was too small."
"If you look into the carb throat, there is an extremely
small hole just above the butterfly valve in the carb throat
which opens up a circuit from idle to mid-range power.If this
passage is obstructed, then the carb will stumble as the
throttle is advanced through the 1300-1500 rpm range.DO NOT
use compressed air to blow through the passage as you run the
very likely risk of pulling a sudden vacuum in the float chamber
and the float can implode or distort.The most correct way to
clear this passage would be to disassemble the carb and try to
clear out the passage with an ultrasonic cleaner."
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Zinc coated t-nuts? |
| From: | "kevinpurtee" <kevin.purtee(at)us.army.mil> |
Now Dan, you KNOW you're not going to keep water out, even if you seal the tank
cover. Seal if you must, but you'll still need drain holes.
Ask me how I know. Right, Lowell?
--------
Kevin Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316060#316060
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: throttle and brakes |
If you advance the throttle slowly does it still stumble? If so I
would consider that normal, as these carbs don't have an accelerator
pump. I've had two different A-65's with the NAS carbs and if you gave
them full throttle too quickly they would hesitate before going to full
throttle... just a thought.
Ben
On 10/16/2010 6:27 PM, skellytown flyer wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "skellytown flyer"
>
> Well I am finally getting a little progress on my left brake on my project- they
are old 1947 dated multiple segment Hayes brakes with a rubber expansion bladder
and Gerdes master cylinders attached to the rudder pedals. I am wondering
if that style piston master cylinder has enough volume to really expand the
old brakes enough. the right one worked fairly well but the left one wouldn't.
I just finished putting .025" shims under most of the shoe segments on that
side and got them to work though the drum does get kinda warm after extended taxi.
if it doesn't break in soon I guess I'll do something else.also the Stromberg
has a bad dead spot. as it comes off idle. it was rebuilt according to the
tag that I got with DJ's paperwork.looks nice and clean inside but I have a
hard time getting it to take throttle especially till it warms up real good.once
it is past maybe a 1/2" on the lever it goes ahead and runs up great. and I
have played with the idle screw and probably have it !
> at 1 3/4 turns out now.no real improvement- seemed to run worse at 2 1/2 turns.it
is mounted with the bowl side against the firewall and the throttle shaft
forward. I thought that could possibly be an issue with the tail down, but
raising the tail doesn't seem to help. also I can hit the primer when it's stumbling
and trying to take power and it kills it so that tells me it is rich rather
than lean at that point.sometimes pulling carb heat seemed to help some but
there sure isn't any icing here with the humidity as low as it is in the Texas
panhandle right now.the mixture is wired full rich.it runs plenty strong if
you can get it to go past the dead spot.just wondering if any of you have run
into similar issues with your Stromberg? Raymond
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=315983#315983
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: throttle and brakes |
| From: | "skellytown flyer" <skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com> |
Yes it does make sense- I never open an aircraft throttle fast.and no matter how
slow I try to open it -it still tries to die unless I pull it back to idle-but
sometimes I seem to be able to pull it back and when it starts to level back
out open it fairly quickly -to a point maybe 1/2" or so in travel it gets past
the stumbling point and picks up-then it does OK from there on.I have wondered
about the design of the intake where it divides to the two runners going up
to the heads.it is a 90 degree elbow with the carb neck welded in the center
of it and it could be possible at some flow rate I guess that it could just be
too turbulent? probably not.anyway it is odd and repeatable.and seems to get
better as the head temp gets up over 200. and also it did seem at times like
the carb heat being on helped some but I do not like running it on the ground
like that since I fly from dirt. runway
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316076#316076
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harvey Rule <harvey.rule(at)bell.net> |
I just switched over from a Marvel Shebler to a Stromberg due to the AME fe
eling that the Marvel may have had a float problem.The only one we could fi
nd around was the Stromberg.Not sure how it will work out.One problem we ha
d to fix right away was the fuel line needed to be longer by about 3 inches
.Still waiting for new fuel line so I can't test it.
Sure hope everything works out OK.With the old carb I had to constantly pri
me in order to start thus the reason for the AME to believe there might be
a float problem.Once the engine did start with the Marvel it did have a pro
blem with throttling up as well which it never had before.Perhaps that may
have been part of the float problem too.Nothing but engine problems this su
mmer=2Cone thing after another preventing me from flying.Very frustrating s
eason for me.Here's hoping next season will be better!
> From: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Stromberg carbs
> Date: Sun=2C 17 Oct 2010 10:49:13 -0500
>
>
>
>
> Raymond wrote:
>
> >I am not getting the idle screw to help as far as
> >doing away with the dead spot.
>
> If you look at the way the Stromberg carb is set up=2C you'll
> see that the idle circuit opens up into the throat of the
> carb right where the throttle butterfly plate contacts the
> wall of the throat. In fact=2C when you pull back the throttle
> all the way back to idle=2C that's the only time there is
> enough 'signal' for the carb to pull fuel through that
> circuit. You can see this by looking at Neal Wright's
> diagram of the carb fuel circuits on pg. 2=2C here:
> http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/Stromberg%20stuff.pdf
> and the idle fuel circuit is sort of in violet.
>
> By design=2C then=2C adjusting the idle mixture screw
> should only affect the engine operation when the throttle
> is at idle and your problem is not at idle... it's in the
> first opening of the throttle as you come off of idle.
>
> >From Harry Fenton=2C on the FlyBaby site: "Your stumble is
> probably due to blocked or obstructed bleed hole. If one
> of the bleed holes which serves as the transition from idle
> to higher power settings is blocked=2C the engine will stumble.
> Another possibility is that the holes where the throttle shaft
> passes through the carb body are worn. If too much air is
> pulled through the holes=2C then the mixture will lean out and
> the carb will stumble until more fuel is available. If the
> engine was previously used on a homebuilt=2C then perhaps the
> carb air box was too small."
>
> "If you look into the carb throat=2C there is an extremely
> small hole just above the butterfly valve in the carb throat
> which opens up a circuit from idle to mid-range power.If this
> passage is obstructed=2C then the carb will stumble as the
> throttle is advanced through the 1300-1500 rpm range.DO NOT
> use compressed air to blow through the passage as you run the
> very likely risk of pulling a sudden vacuum in the float chamber
> and the float can implode or distort.The most correct way to
> clear this passage would be to disassemble the carb and try to
> clear out the passage with an ultrasonic cleaner."
>
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> Air Camper NX41CC
> San Antonio=2C TX
> mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stromberg carbs |
| From: | "skellytown flyer" <skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com> |
Thanks again Oscar-guess I know what to tackle next time I get a day off.good to
have a tip on where to start.I may wish I had put zippers on this thing instead
of screws before this is over. Raymond
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316096#316096
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Lane" <dslane(at)embarqmail.com> |
Help
Does anyone know an appropriate method for safety wiring the pin end of
a AN135 turnbuckle assembly?
Don Lane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dick N" <horzpool(at)goldengate.net> |
Check in ACS cataloug. There is a full page on wrapping turnbuckles.
Go with the single wrap method.
Dick N
----- Original Message -----
From: Donald Lane
To: pietenpol
Sent: Sunday, October 17, 2010 7:40 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: turnbuckles
Help
Does anyone know an appropriate method for safety wiring the pin end
of a AN135 turnbuckle assembly?
Don Lane
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Lane" <dslane(at)embarqmail.com> |
Hi Dick
Thanks for the quick response. I have studied the pictures in the
Aircraft Spruce catalog and cannot see any way to run the wire through
the pin end to turn it back on the turnbuckle, whithout going around the
pin itself, which looks to me to be unacceptable. I guess I will step
back and start over with a fork end arrangement to remove the problem.
This is connecting the rudder cables to the rudder horns. through flat
metal links, because when putting the fork end of a turnbuckle directly
to the rudder, I found that I could only get a few degrees of deflection
of the rudder before the fork would jam in the horn. This would also
possibly damage the safety wire over time.
I am still curious if there is a proper way to do this. I think the
fork end is a better arrangement anyway and will go that route.
Don L
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KM Heide CPO/FAAOP <kmheidecpo(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 1.5mm Plywood |
Norm,
-
You are correct! The price of $29.00 per sheet is for damaged sheets abused
by the fork lift and other mishandling. However, if you need to get some p
ieces form these sheets it will save you many $$.
-
KMHeide
Fargo, ND
-
--- On Sun, 10/17/10, norm wrote:
From: norm <coevst(at)yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: 1.5mm Plywood
Date: Sunday, October 17, 2010, 10:36 AM
There is a fellow at Boulter that is a bit fast ,,,, watch for damaged good
s whitch he will pawn off on you at least if you are a walk in customer....
From: tkreiner <tkreiner(at)gmail.com>
Sent: Sun, October 17, 2010 9:41:31 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: 1.5mm Plywood
Guys,
In looking for 1.5mm plywood, I called Boulter Plywood and asked for 1.5mm
Okume plywood, and they gave me a price of $49 per 4x8 sheet.- Since I ha
d seen their ad earlier this year for $29 for the same sheets, I was sorry
that I had missed the sale.- So I searched and came across a site that ha
s 1.5 mm Aircraft Birch Plywood in 4.4 sheets - Plywood & Door, with severa
l locations around the US.- Their cost is $23. per sheet, which translate
s to $46 for a 4 x 8.- (Add shipping and you have a pretty steep price.)
I mentioned this to Dick Navratil, and lamented the fact that I didn't jump
on the sale that Boulter Plywood listed in Sport Aviation.- Dick emailed
me back the next day to tell me the ad was still there and current.-
So, I called Boulter Friday afternoon, and told them I just saw the ad in t
he current Sport Aviation, and they extended the price to me at $29 per she
et.
After they took the order they called back late in the afternoon, and said
if I wanted to add to the order they would extend the price, but they were
going to contact EAA on Monday - tomorrow - and rescind the price.
So, if you need gusset material, NOW is the time to jump on this and let th
em know you just saw the ad, and want to place an order.
Please, however, do not mention this post, or my name, as I don't want my o
rder upset.
Best luck to all!
--------
Tom Kreiner
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/vienbsp; - - - - - - - - -
-======================
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
Don, attached is a picture, (re sized smaller...for those who has requested
so...) of my horns. They all use the fork end directly attached to the hor
n. However, I use swaged on forks, the turnbuckle is at the rudder bar. My
travel is not hindered by the fork...maybe your hole set back is excessive,
or the swage on cable forks are different.
I assume you do not want to purchase new turnbuckles, but there are the typ
e that use a spring type clip for safety...no hand wiring required. (also a
vail. at AS&S.)
Michael Perez
=0AKaretaker Aero
=0Awww.karetakeraero.com
--- On Mon, 10/18/10, Donald Lane wrote:
From: Donald Lane <dslane(at)embarqmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: turnbuckles
Date: Monday, October 18, 2010, 8:29 AM
=0A=0A =0A =0A=0AHi Dick=0AThanks for the quick response.- I have studied
=0Athe pictures in the Aircraft Spruce catalog and cannot see any way to r
un the =0Awire through the pin end to turn it back on the turnbuckle, whith
out going =0Aaround the pin itself, which looks to me to be unacceptable.
- I guess I =0Awill step back and start over with a fork end arrangement
to remove the =0Aproblem.- This is connecting the rudder cables to the ru
dder =0Ahorns.-through flat metal links, because when putting the fork en
d of a =0Aturnbuckle directly to the rudder, I found that I could only get
a few degrees =0Aof deflection of the rudder before the fork would jam in t
he horn.- This =0Awould also possibly damage the safety wire over time.
=0AI am still curious if there is a proper way to do =0Athis.- I think th
e fork end is a better arrangement anyway and will go that =0Aroute.=0ADon
=======================0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
I did the same thing for the same reason, turnbuckles on the bell crank.
rick
On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 10:36 AM, Michael Perez wrote:
> Don, attached is a picture, (re sized smaller...for those who has requested
> so...) of my horns. They all use the fork end directly attached to the horn.
> However, I use swaged on forks, the turnbuckle is at the rudder bar. My
> travel is not hindered by the fork...maybe your hole set back is excessive,
> or the swage on cable forks are different.
>
> I assume you do not want to purchase new turnbuckles, but there are the
> type that use a spring type clip for safety...no hand wiring required. (also
> avail. at AS&S.)
>
> Michael Perez
> Karetaker Aero
> www.karetakeraero.com
>
> --- On *Mon, 10/18/10, Donald Lane * wrote:
>
>
> From: Donald Lane <dslane(at)embarqmail.com>
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: turnbuckles
> To: "pietenpol"
> Date: Monday, October 18, 2010, 8:29 AM
>
> Hi Dick
> Thanks for the quick response. I have studied the pictures in the Aircraft
> Spruce catalog and cannot see any way to run the wire through the pin end to
> turn it back on the turnbuckle, whithout going around the pin itself, which
> looks to me to be unacceptable. I guess I will step back and start over
> with a fork end arrangement to remove the problem. This is connecting the
> rudder cables to the rudder horns. through flat metal links, because when
> putting the fork end of a turnbuckle directly to the rudder, I found that I
> could only get a few degrees of deflection of the rudder before the fork
> would jam in the horn. This would also possibly damage the safety wire over
> time.
> I am still curious if there is a proper way to do this. I think the fork
> end is a better arrangement anyway and will go that route.
> Don L
>
> *httt; http://www.matronics.com/contrib==============
> <http://forums.matronics.co=>*
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gboothe5(at)comcast.net |
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biA9PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09CgoNCg=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Franklin <jbfjr(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Tailwheel endorsement question |
Like a lot of guys, I have a PPL but no medical, and am planning on flying LS.
Does one have to fly dual as well as solo to get a tail wheel endorsement? If
so, that would mean I would have to get the endorsement in an LS certified plane.
The reason I ask is because I have a friend that would let me use his Citabria,
and that would only cost me the instructor's time, but a Citabria is not LS.
I just haven't seen many LS planes available for rental here in SE Texas.
Thanks,
John F.
GN-1 / Corvair
Richmond, TX
________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harvey Rule <harvey.rule(at)bell.net> |
> _tried out the Stromberg carb today and what a difference.It started righ
t away no hesitation =2Ckept going no need to keep priming.Lots of power.AM
E o take the Marvel home and see what he can find if anything is wrong with
it.Must be something wrong with it because it worked fine before.
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement question |
| From: | hvandervoo(at)aol.com |
John,
If you can pass medical, just get your medical for one year and get your en
dorsement, then let your medical lapse again.
Unless you have a instructor that is willing to give you an endorsement wit
hout going solo.
Hans
-----Original Message-----
From: John Franklin <jbfjr(at)peoplepc.com>
Sent: Mon, Oct 18, 2010 2:24 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Tailwheel endorsement question
Like a lot of guys, I have a PPL but no medical, and am planning on flying
LS.
oes one have to fly dual as well as solo to get a tail wheel endorsement?
If
o, that would mean I would have to get the endorsement in an LS certified
lane.
The reason I ask is because I have a friend that would let me use his Citab
ria,
nd that would only cost me the instructor's time, but a Citabria is not LS.
I
ust haven't seen many LS planes available for rental here in SE Texas.
Thanks,
ohn F.
N-1 / Corvair
ichmond, TX
________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement question |
| From: | Andrew M Eldredge <andrew.eldredge(at)gmail.com> |
Solo time is not a requirement for the tailwheel endorsement, instruction
only...
from CFR Title 14 part 61.31
(i) *Additional training required for operating tailwheel airplanes. *(1)
Except as provided in paragraph (i)(2) of this section, no person may act as
pilot in command of a tailwheel airplane unless that person has received and
logged flight training from an authorized instructor in a tailwheel airplane
and received an endorsement in the person's logbook from an authorized
instructor who found the person proficient in the operation of a tailwheel
airplane. The flight training must include at least the following maneuvers
and procedures:
(i) Normal and crosswind takeoffs and landings;
(ii) Wheel landings (unless the manufacturer has recommended against such
landings); and
(iii) Go-around procedures.
(2) The training and endorsement required by paragraph (i)(1) of this
section is not required if the person logged pilot-in-command time in a
tailwheel airplane before April 15, 1991.
On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 12:21 PM, John Franklin wrote:
>
> Like a lot of guys, I have a PPL but no medical, and am planning on flying
> LS. Does one have to fly dual as well as solo to get a tail wheel
> endorsement? If so, that would mean I would have to get the endorsement in
> an LS certified plane.
>
> The reason I ask is because I have a friend that would let me use his
> Citabria, and that would only cost me the instructor's time, but a Citabria
> is not LS. I just haven't seen many LS planes available for rental here in
> SE Texas.
>
> Thanks,
> John F.
> GN-1 / Corvair
> Richmond, TX
>
> ________________________________________
>
>
--
Andrew Eldredge
Sahuarita, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement question |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
And technically, the way that is written, you can't solo in a tailwheel
airplane (since you would be PIC) until the instructor has provided you with
the tailwheel endorsement in your logbook...
If need be, per the Sport Pilot website (
http://www.sportpilot.org/instructors/texas_1.html), there are Sport Pilot
instructors listed in League City and La Porte, with a J-3 and a Taylorcraft
respectively.
Good luck!
Ryan
On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 3:02 PM, Andrew M Eldredge <
andrew.eldredge(at)gmail.com> wrote:
> Solo time is not a requirement for the tailwheel endorsement, instruction
> only...
>
> from CFR Title 14 part 61.31
>
> (i) *Additional training required for operating tailwheel airplanes. *(1)
> Except as provided in paragraph (i)(2) of this section, no person may act as
> pilot in command of a tailwheel airplane unless that person has received and
> logged flight training from an authorized instructor in a tailwheel airplane
> and received an endorsement in the person's logbook from an authorized
> instructor who found the person proficient in the operation of a tailwheel
> airplane. The flight training must include at least the following maneuvers
> and procedures:
>
> (i) Normal and crosswind takeoffs and landings;
>
> (ii) Wheel landings (unless the manufacturer has recommended against such
> landings); and
>
> (iii) Go-around procedures.
>
> (2) The training and endorsement required by paragraph (i)(1) of this
> section is not required if the person logged pilot-in-command time in a
> tailwheel airplane before April 15, 1991.
>
>
> On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 12:21 PM, John Franklin wrote:
>
>>
>> Like a lot of guys, I have a PPL but no medical, and am planning on flying
>> LS. Does one have to fly dual as well as solo to get a tail wheel
>> endorsement? If so, that would mean I would have to get the endorsement in
>> an LS certified plane.
>>
>> The reason I ask is because I have a friend that would let me use his
>> Citabria, and that would only cost me the instructor's time, but a Citabria
>> is not LS. I just haven't seen many LS planes available for rental here in
>> SE Texas.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> John F.
>> GN-1 / Corvair
>> Richmond, TX
>>
>> ________________________________________
>>
>> ==========
>> st" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Andrew Eldredge
> Sahuarita, AZ
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
I didn't have any trouble fitting the wire through the pin-hole or
through the fork to safety my turnbuckles, even using the double wrap
method. Did you try it?
Ben
On 10/18/2010 8:29 AM, Donald Lane wrote:
> Hi Dick
> Thanks for the quick response. I have studied the pictures in the
> Aircraft Spruce catalog and cannot see any way to run the wire through
> the pin end to turn it back on the turnbuckle, whithout going around
> the pin itself, which looks to me to be unacceptable. I guess I will
> step back and start over with a fork end arrangement to remove the
> problem. This is connecting the rudder cables to the rudder
> horns. through flat metal links, because when putting the fork end of
> a turnbuckle directly to the rudder, I found that I could only get a
> few degrees of deflection of the rudder before the fork would jam in
> the horn. This would also possibly damage the safety wire over time.
> I am still curious if there is a proper way to do this. I think the
> fork end is a better arrangement anyway and will go that route.
> Don L
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement question |
You can get instruction in a non LS airplane because your CFI is pilot
in command. I got my tailwheel endorsement in a Citabria as a LS
pilot. I must say that a Citabria isn't very similar to a Pietenpol in
flight though, so try to get some dual time in a Cub before flying your
GN-1. Have fun!
Ben
On 10/18/2010 3:21 PM, John Franklin wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: John Franklin
>
> Like a lot of guys, I have a PPL but no medical, and am planning on flying LS.
Does one have to fly dual as well as solo to get a tail wheel endorsement?
If so, that would mean I would have to get the endorsement in an LS certified
plane.
>
> The reason I ask is because I have a friend that would let me use his Citabria,
and that would only cost me the instructor's time, but a Citabria is not LS.
I just haven't seen many LS planes available for rental here in SE Texas.
>
> Thanks,
> John F.
> GN-1 / Corvair
> Richmond, TX
>
> ________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jim" <quinnj(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement question |
Hi John,
There is no solo requirement to get your tailwheel endorsement. Rather, as
Andrew cited, you must be signed off (get an endorsement) from a CFI showing
you are proficient in the operations he listed. You do not need a medical to
train, ie get the dual instruction. Obviously you can not solo the Citabria
once you have the endorsement because it is not a LS.
As an Instructor I would give you the sign-off without your medical, after
explaining to you that you could not act as PIC in a non-LS aircraft because
you lacked the medical. However, you are good to go in a LS.
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Franklin" <jbfjr(at)peoplepc.com>
Sent: Monday, October 18, 2010 2:21 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Tailwheel endorsement question
>
> Like a lot of guys, I have a PPL but no medical, and am planning on flying
> LS. Does one have to fly dual as well as solo to get a tail wheel
> endorsement? If so, that would mean I would have to get the endorsement
> in an LS certified plane.
>
> The reason I ask is because I have a friend that would let me use his
> Citabria, and that would only cost me the instructor's time, but a
> Citabria is not LS. I just haven't seen many LS planes available for
> rental here in SE Texas.
>
> Thanks,
> John F.
> GN-1 / Corvair
> Richmond, TX
>
> ________________________________________
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Stromberg carbs |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
Did your Marvel have a accelerator pump Harvey? If so it doesn't sound like
it was working.
rick
On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 1:54 PM, Harvey Rule wrote:
> I just switched over from a Marvel Shebler to a Stromberg due to the AME
> feeling that the Marvel may have had a float problem.The only one we could
> find around was the Stromberg.Not sure how it will work out.One problem we
> had to fix right away was the fuel line needed to be longer by about 3
> inches .Still waiting for new fuel line so I can't test it.
> Sure hope everything works out OK.With the old carb I had to constantly
> prime in order to start thus the reason for the AME to believe there might
> be a float problem.Once the engine did start with the Marvel it did have a
> problem with throttling up as well which it never had before.Perhaps that
> may have been part of the float problem too.Nothing but engine problems this
> summer,one thing after another preventing me from flying.Very frustrating
> season for me.Here's hoping next season will be better!
>
>
> > From: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> > To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Stromberg carbs
> > Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 10:49:13 -0500
>
> >
> taildrags(at)hotmail.com>
> >
> >
> > Raymond wrote:
> >
> > >I am not getting the idle screw to help as far as
> > >doing away with the dead spot.
> >
> > If you look at the way the Stromberg carb is set up, you'll
> > see that the idle circuit opens up into the throat of the
> > carb right where the throttle butterfly plate contacts the
> > wall of the throat. In fact, when you pull back the throttle
> > all the way back to idle, that's the only time there is
> > enough 'signal' for the carb to pull fuel through that
> > circuit. You can see this by looking at Neal Wright's
> > diagram of the carb fuel circuits on pg. 2, here:
> > http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/Stromberg%20stuff.pdf
> > and the idle fuel circuit is sort of in violet.
> >
> > By design, then, adjusting the idle mixture screw
> > should only affect the engine operation when the throttle
> > is at idle and your problem is not at idle... it's in the
> > first opening of the throttle as you come off of idle.
> >
> > >From Harry Fenton, on the FlyBaby site: "Your stumble is
> > probably due to blocked or obstructed bleed hole. If one
> > of the bleed holes which serves as the transition from idle
> > to higher power settings is blocked, the engine will stumble.
> > Another possibility is that the holes where the throttle shaft
> > passes through the carb body are worn. If too much air is
> > pulled through the holes, then the mixture will lean out and
> > the carb will stumble until more fuel is available. If the
> > engine was previously used on a homebuilt, then perhaps the
> > carb air box was too small."
> >
> > "If you look into the carb throat, there is an extremely
> > small hole just above the butterfly valve in the carb throat
> > which opens up a circuit from idle to mid-range power.If this
> > passage is obstructed, then the carb will stumble as the
> > throttle is advanced through the 1300-1500 rpm range.DO NOT
> > use compressed air to blow through the passage as you run the
> > very likely risk of pulling a sudden vacuum in the float chamber
> > and the float can implode or distort.The most correct way to
> > clear this passage would be to disassemble the carb and try to
> > clear out the passage with an ultrasonic cleaner."
> >
> >
> > Oscar Zuniga
> > Air Camper NX41CC
> > San Antonio, TX
> > mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
> > website at http:======================
>
> >
> >
> >
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
| From: | "Kringle" <Mrkringles(at)msn.com> |
Tucker are using 1/2 pins?
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316251#316251
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel endorsement question |
| From: | Matt Wash <mattwash(at)mattwash.com> |
John,
An aircraft doesn't have to be certified under LSA guidelines for you to fly
it with sport pilot restrictions. The aircraft just has to conform to the
definition of a light sport, the main criteria being under 1320lbs for land
aircraft.
Look around for someone who gives training in their cub, champ, chief, etc.
You can train and solo in these aircraft. There's a champ that is rented for
training in Kittie Hill, which is near austin/georgetown. I imagine there
are some places that have similar craft available near Houston.
http://www.sportpilot.org/learn/lsa/standard_certificate_aircraft.html has a
list of all the aircraft that are able to be flown as a sport pilot as if
they were certified as LSA.
~Matt
On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 4:27 PM, jim wrote:
>
> Hi John,
>
> There is no solo requirement to get your tailwheel endorsement. Rather, as
> Andrew cited, you must be signed off (get an endorsement) from a CFI showing
> you are proficient in the operations he listed. You do not need a medical to
> train, ie get the dual instruction. Obviously you can not solo the Citabria
> once you have the endorsement because it is not a LS.
>
> As an Instructor I would give you the sign-off without your medical, after
> explaining to you that you could not act as PIC in a non-LS aircraft because
> you lacked the medical. However, you are good to go in a LS.
>
> Jim
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Franklin" <jbfjr(at)peoplepc.com>
>
> To: "Piet_List"
> Sent: Monday, October 18, 2010 2:21 PM
>
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Tailwheel endorsement question
>
>
>>
>> Like a lot of guys, I have a PPL but no medical, and am planning on flying
>> LS. Does one have to fly dual as well as solo to get a tail wheel
>> endorsement? If so, that would mean I would have to get the endorsement in
>> an LS certified plane.
>>
>> The reason I ask is because I have a friend that would let me use his
>> Citabria, and that would only cost me the instructor's time, but a Citabria
>> is not LS. I just haven't seen many LS planes available for rental here in
>> SE Texas.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> John F.
>> GN-1 / Corvair
>> Richmond, TX
>>
>> ________________________________________
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
| From: | "Tucker" <Tucker(at)tuckerrice.net> |
Right. 1/2" pin nails from FastenerUSA.com. About 40# air pressure drives the
nails just right.
--------
Tucker
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316284#316284
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
| From: | "Kringle" <Mrkringles(at)msn.com> |
But with the rib material at 1/4 inch and the gussets at about 1/16 aren't the
nails shooting through the other side?
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316293#316293
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
| From: | "Kringle" <Mrkringles(at)msn.com> |
My error. The pin is placed in the thicker side of the rib material.
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316298#316298
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: take a 4:36 ride in a Pietenpol |
That is not legal, what are you doing! "That was an incredibly brave thing
you did, what you should have done was land your plane.- You don't own th
at plane the tax payers do.- Son your ego writing checks your body can't
cash."- -Next thing you know people will land on polo fields to buy a 1
2 pack, and fly home, and drink beer, and brag about landing on a polo fiel
d, and clean bug splatter off of latex paint!- Shame Shame.- But it loo
ks like you were having fun, so I won't tell if you don't.- Enjoy that Pi
et, it's getting colder up here in Yankee Teritory, so smoke em if ya got e
m.
-
Shad
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: take a 4:36 ride in a Pietenpol |
| From: | gboothe5(at)comcast.net |
VGFsayB0byBtZSwgR29vc2UuDQoNCkdhcnkNCkRvIG5vdCBhcmNoaXZlDQpTZW50IG9uIHRoZSBT
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bm90IGxlZ2FsLCB3aGF0IGFyZSB5b3UgZG9pbmchICJUaGF0IHdhcyBhbiBpbmNyZWRpYmx5IGJy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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "peterk48" <peterk48(at)msn.com> |
Hi Mike,
Thanks for the quick turnaround on the DVD. Unfortunately, I can't get it ot
play on my home TV Samsung DVD either and its blue ray and normal. Should I
send it back, try it on the computer? I've heard great things and really do
want it. Will go anyway you suggest. Will you be at SC in Nov? I will. Thanks
again.
Pete Anderson
--------
Pete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316420#316420
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mike Cuy DVD |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
Hi Pete,
I have a copy of Mike Cuy's excellent DVD,, and it plays just fine on my old Dell
laptop. Might want to stick it in your computer and give it a shot to see
if it works.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316430#316430
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Mike Cuy DVD |
| From: | "bubbleboy" <scott.dawson3(at)bigpond.com> |
Mike sent one all the way to me here in Australia after some begging from me.
3 computers and 4 DVD players and I cant get it to show. Darn American formats!
I even tried to get the local video guy to convert it and he couldnt. Said something
about a system he has never seen. That Mr Cuy is a secretive chap...hehehe!
--------
Scotty
Tamworth, Australia
Building a Corvair Powered Pietenpol Air Camper
www.scottyspietenpol.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316438#316438
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mike Cuy DVD |
Mike, I may be able to solve your DVD issues. We can chat off list. All of
the DVDs I have sent out have played fine, so maybe I can reformat yours.
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | take a 4:36 ride in a Pietenpol |
Mikee-
Next time you see the pilot who was flying during that video,
would you mind asking him about the fuel quantity? If your
airplane has a tank up in the nose and a float-and-rod style
fuel level indicator, it looks to me like there was very little
fuel in the tank during the flight. If that's just a vent
coming off the top of the cap and there is a fuel quantity
indicator somewhere else, I didn't spot it. Anyway, the guy in
the video isn't any crazier than I am... typical airspeeds and
altitudes for my kind of flying.
Yes sirreee... it's cooling off down here in TX, too. It's not
supposed to climb past the 80s all week! I have the Reklaw
Fly-In plotted out for this weekend but a lots of ducks need to
line up in a row for me to be able to take 41CC over there. The
first duck may fall this afternoon, since I'm scheduled to take
my biennial flight review and will be legal to fly again.
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
| From: | "giacummo" <mario.giacummo(at)gmail.com> |
Why the nails?... is not enough with the epoxy? or the nails are to prevent the
unglue of outside sheet?.. just to know. I do not put anu gusset yet and I build..
10 ribs by the moment..
jood job, regarsd.
mario
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316483#316483
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
The nails are just to hold the gussets in place while the epoxy cures. The nails
provide no strength to the ribs at all.
I just went to Harbor Freight yesterday and purchased a 23ga pin nailer also, and
some 1/2" pins so that I can start on my ribs soon. I'm just waiting on a
friend of mine who is plotting out a full size drawing of the rib profile for
me, and then the rib building will begin!
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316490#316490
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave and Connie <dmatt(at)frontiernet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
What is the part number on the 23ga pin nailer? It sounds like
something that would be handy to have around.
Dave
On 10/20/2010 3:14 PM, Billy McCaskill wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Billy McCaskill"
>
> The nails are just to hold the gussets in place while the epoxy cures. The nails
provide no strength to the ribs at all.
>
> I just went to Harbor Freight yesterday and purchased a 23ga pin nailer also,
and some 1/2" pins so that I can start on my ribs soon. I'm just waiting on
a friend of mine who is plotting out a full size drawing of the rib profile for
me, and then the rib building will begin!
>
> --------
> Billy McCaskill
> Urbana, IL
> tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
| From: | "Kringle" <Mrkringles(at)msn.com> |
Try this
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?category=&q=Pin+nailer
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316515#316515
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
The link that John Kringle posted above is precisely the model that I picked up
in my local Harbor Freight store yesterday, and it was $19.99 as listed on the
website. I had to go to a local big-box home improvement store to find the
1/2" length pins, though. A box of 3000 cost $6.79, and 3000 pins will last a
long time.
I do a lot of other woodworking stuff around the house and shop too, so I'll be
using the 23ga pin nailer on other projects, albeit with longer pins for the
more substantial projects. I also have an 18ga finish nailer/stapler for the
projects where the pin nailer won't suffice.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316522#316522
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | johnwoods(at)westnet.com.au |
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
Just a question or warning.
I take it these pins will be removed after the glue has dried.
Unless they are coated isn't there a danger of them rusting from the moisture content
in the wood?
This is why coated nails/pins are used?
JohnW
----- Original Message -----
From: "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net>
Sent: Thursday, 21 October, 2010 10:03:29 AM GMT +08:00 Beijing / Chongqing / Hong
Kong / Urumqi
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Doin' Some Ribs
The link that John Kringle posted above is precisely the model that I picked up
in my local Harbor Freight store yesterday, and it was $19.99 as listed on the
website. I had to go to a local big-box home improvement store to find the
1/2" length pins, though. A box of 3000 cost $6.79, and 3000 pins will last a
long time.
I do a lot of other woodworking stuff around the house and shop too, so I'll be
using the 23ga pin nailer on other projects, albeit with longer pins for the
more substantial projects. I also have an 18ga finish nailer/stapler for the
projects where the pin nailer won't suffice.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316522#316522
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
I was wondering the same thing...
Ben
On 10/20/2010 10:35 PM, johnwoods(at)westnet.com.au wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: johnwoods(at)westnet.com.au
>
>
> Just a question or warning.
> I take it these pins will be removed after the glue has dried.
> Unless they are coated isn't there a danger of them rusting from the moisture
content in the wood?
> This is why coated nails/pins are used?
>
> JohnW
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Billy McCaskill"<billmz(at)cox.net>
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday, 21 October, 2010 10:03:29 AM GMT +08:00 Beijing / Chongqing /
Hong Kong / Urumqi
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Doin' Some Ribs
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Billy McCaskill"
>
> The link that John Kringle posted above is precisely the model that I picked
up in my local Harbor Freight store yesterday, and it was $19.99 as listed on
the website. I had to go to a local big-box home improvement store to find the
1/2" length pins, though. A box of 3000 cost $6.79, and 3000 pins will last
a long time.
>
> I do a lot of other woodworking stuff around the house and shop too, so I'll
be using the 23ga pin nailer on other projects, albeit with longer pins for the
more substantial projects. I also have an 18ga finish nailer/stapler for the
projects where the pin nailer won't suffice.
>
> --------
> Billy McCaskill
> Urbana, IL
> tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316522#316522
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
Does varnishing the ribs count as coating the pins? The pins are galvanized, but
I was also planning on covering over the tiny little holes made by the 23 ga
pins with varnish as I varnished the rest of the ribs...
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316532#316532
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
| From: | "Kringle" <Mrkringles(at)msn.com> |
Swan Secure makes a 1/2" 23 gauge stainless pin nail. I'm still looking for an
online source for them.
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316543#316543
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Schreiber" <lmforge(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
Varnishing the pins or staples is not enough. There is enough residual
moisture in the wood to eventually corrode the staples if they are not
coated. Galvanized staples may work though.
Rick Schreiber
> [Original Message]
> From: Billy McCaskill <billmz(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Date: 10/20/2010 11:36:49 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Doin' Some Ribs
>
>
> Does varnishing the ribs count as coating the pins? The pins are
galvanized, but I was also planning on covering over the tiny little holes
made by the 23 ga pins with varnish as I varnished the rest of the ribs...
>
> --------
> Billy McCaskill
> Urbana, IL
> tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316532#316532
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack" <jack(at)textors.com> |
Posted some shots of my C-85 project, www.textors.com
Jack
DSM
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
| From: | "Tucker" <Tucker(at)tuckerrice.net> |
FastenerUSA.com says that they are galvanized. Should last a long time and not
cause too much rusting. I'll give the forum a status update in 25 years when
I recover the Piet. Here is a pic of a box of 5K. :D They are galvanized
a gold color.
--------
Tucker
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316613#316613
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_0004_254.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
The 23ga pins I bought are Paslode brand from Home Depot, and look exactly like
the ones in the photo that Tucker posted. As small as they are, and given that
they will be driven through the uncured T-88 when nailing the gussets in place,
I think that the rusting will be minimal if it even occurs at all.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316615#316615
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
| From: | "Dangerous Dave" <dsornbor(at)aol.com> |
To the nay sayers of nails.Have you ever wrecked a wood plane?Have you ever seen
whats left of an un nailed plane vs. a nailed plane?The glue doesn't come apart
the plywood delaminates,the nails do do something.They may not hold the plane
together but they will keep it from falling apart.
--------
Building a Piet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316617#316617
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Wood for landing gear |
| From: | "skellytown flyer" <skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com> |
I would think as long as your glue joints are good you would end up with an even
stronger piece-since any run-out of grain or weak spot is broken by the splicing
of the other piece or pieces.-I expect that is a big advantage of a laminated
prop or a laminated gun stock or Bow.- it tends to strengthen and also limit
warping as I understand it. Raymond
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316619#316619
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Model A disassembly, Chapter 1 |
| From: | "Mild Bill" <whfrank(at)charter.net> |
Is soft aluminum really able to stand up to the beating that cam gears must endure?
--------
Bill Frank
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316639#316639
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Model A disassembly, Chapter 1 |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
Aluminum cam gears are very common throughout combustion engines....as are
steel, cast iron, powdered metal, and even fiber. As long as it's properly
installed it should work fine.
On Thu, Oct 21, 2010 at 11:29 PM, Mild Bill wrote:
>
> Is soft aluminum really able to stand up to the beating that cam gears must
> endure?
>
> --------
> Bill Frank
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316639#316639
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another Regulatory Topic |
| From: | "Mild Bill" <whfrank(at)charter.net> |
Ah, yes, the capriciousness of the FAA.
I have a relative who works for the FAA. He smiles a little too broadly and laughs
a little too heartily when he says, "The FAA Motto: We're not happy until
you're not happy."
--------
Bill Frank
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316642#316642
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | How much fabric? |
| From: | "giacummo" <mario.giacummo(at)gmail.com> |
Hello,
How much fabric I have to buy for the Piet?.. I calculated that I need 50 m2 (aprox);
the ones who just finish it, how much did you buy/use? what weight 1.8
or 2.6 Oz?
Thank you.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316661#316661
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Rudder horn hole spacing |
Group, I am not near my plans and need to know the distance between the holes on
the rudder horn. (the cable attach holes) Thanks.
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rudder horn hole spacing |
| From: | "AlRice" <Allen(at)allenrice.net> |
The holes are 10.25" center to center.
> Group, I am not near my plans and need to know the distance between the holes
on the rudder horn. (the cable attach holes) Thanks.
--------
Al Rice
Skybolt 260
RV-9A
Helping with my grandson's Pietenpol Air Camper
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316673#316673
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How much fabric? |
I used the 1.8 oz stuff from Wicks, because it was wide enough to do
the wing. I believe I ordered 40 yards, and have 3 or 4 yards left over
for my next project.
Ben
On 10/22/2010 10:58 AM, giacummo wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "giacummo"
>
> Hello,
>
> How much fabric I have to buy for the Piet?.. I calculated that I need 50 m2
(aprox); the ones who just finish it, how much did you buy/use? what weight 1.8
or 2.6 Oz?
>
> Thank you.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316661#316661
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder horn hole spacing |
That dimension is not critical, but referencing a recent post, make
sure the holes aren't too far from the edge of the horn, or your
turnbuckles may bind.
Ben
On 10/22/2010 11:52 AM, Michael Perez wrote:
> Group, I am not near my plans and need to know the distance between
> the holes on the rudder horn. (the cable attach holes) Thanks.
>
> Michael Perez
> Karetaker Aero
> www.karetakeraero.com
>
> *
>
>
> *
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Ruse" <steve(at)wotelectronics.com> |
| Subject: | Repairing wood screw holes |
My 28 year old, 600 hour plane has a few screw holes that are wearing
out. I have a sheetmetal cover over the nose tank, screwed to the
longerons on each side with 3/8" long screws. Despite my best efforts
to barely torque these screws, some of them have become quite loose, and
on my last flight I actually lost a screw. So, it is time to fix them.
What is the best technique here?
Gluing a snug-fitting dowel rod into the hole, then cutting and sanding
it flush seems like it would work. Should I use T-88, or would Type II
PVA (wood glue) be good? Type II would be easier but if T-88 is better
that is what I want. I'd like the repairs to last another 30 years (or
longer).
It seems to me that it would be best not to drill out the holes, but
instead to use a snug wood dowel and leaving any remaining fibers inside
the hole. Am I wrong?
Is there any reason I shouldn't use a hardwood dowel (like oak)? It
seems like this would give more durable, longer lasting screw
holes/threads.
Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
Steve Ruse
Norman, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Repairing wood screw holes |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
If the original threads are still present in the holes, I would not plug and redrill
the holes. The dowels are made with the grain running in the long direction,
and fasteners don't hold well when screwed into end grain. I would just
reinforce the existing threaded holes with thin cyanoacrylate glue. Just make
sure to let it fully cure before putting the screws back in or else you might
find it very difficult to remove them the next time they need to come out.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316736#316736
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Repairing wood screw holes |
| From: | "Jerry Dotson" <jdotson(at)centurylink.net> |
I agree with Billy on the CA glue. If it is stripped out bad put toothpicks in
the hole with the CA. Just let it cure real good before putting the screw back
in. It will make removal difficult if it is still wet
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
Started building NX510JD July, 2009
wing, tailfeathers done
using Lycoming O-235
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316745#316745
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Franklin <jbfjr(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Repairing wood screw holes |
Steve,
You might try filling the holes with a steel-filled epoxy such as J-B Weld and
then re-drill them. I'd try it on one or two and see how it does.
Regards,
John F.
Richmond, TX
-----Original Message-----
>From: Steve Ruse <steve(at)wotelectronics.com>
>Sent: Oct 22, 2010 11:28 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Repairing wood screw holes
>
>My 28 year old, 600 hour plane has a few screw holes that are wearing out. I
have a sheetmetal cover over the nose tank, screwed to the longerons on each side
with 3/8" long screws. Despite my best efforts to barely torque these screws,
some of them have become quite loose, and on my last flight I actually lost
a screw. So, it is time to fix them. What is the best technique here?
>
>Gluing a snug-fitting dowel rod into the hole, then cutting and sanding it flush
seems like it would work. Should I use T-88, or would Type II PVA (wood glue)
be good? Type II would be easier but if T-88 is better that is what I want.
I'd like the repairs to last another 30 years (or longer).
>
>It seems to me that it would be best not to drill out the holes, but instead to
use a snug wood dowel and leaving any remaining fibers inside the hole. Am
I wrong?
>
>Is there any reason I shouldn't use a hardwood dowel (like oak)? It seems like
this would give more durable, longer lasting screw holes/threads.
>
>Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
>
>Steve Ruse
>Norman, OK
________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <r.r.hall(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Repairing wood screw holes |
Go to www.mcmaster.com and search for inserts for wood. There is quite a va
riety and you can coat the outside
of the insert with glue to make sure it doesn't come out. You may have to u
se machine screws to hold your metal plate on but
it would be a permanent fix.
Rodney Hall
---- Steve Ruse wrote:
>My 28 year old, 600 hour=C2-plane=C2-has a few screw holes that are we
aring out.=C2-=C2-I have a sheetmetal cover over the nose tank, screwed
to the longerons on each side with 3/8" long=C2-screws.=C2- Despite my
best efforts to barely torque these screws, some of them have become quite
loose, and on my last flight I actually lost a screw.=C2- So, it is time
to fix them.=C2- What is the best technique here?=C2-Gluing a snug-fit
ting dowel rod into the hole, then cutting and sanding it flush=C2-seems
like it would work.=C2- Should I use T-88, or would Type II PVA (wood glu
e) be good?=C2- Type II would be easier but if T-88 is better that is wha
t I want.=C2- I'd like the repairs to last another 30 years (or longer).
=C2-It seems to me that it would be best not to drill out the holes, but
instead to use a snug wood dowel and leaving any remaining fibers inside th
e hole.=C2- Am I wrong?=C2-Is there any reason I shouldn't use a hardwo
od dowel (like oak)?=C2- It seems like this would give more durable, long
er lasting=C2-screw holes/threads.=C2-Any other thoughts would be appre
=======
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | the blonde Pietenpoler |
We were unable to go to the Reklaw fly-in due to weather.
So, I wasted my time playing movie producer and came up
with a Pietenpol short-subject extra, 2:45 long:
http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/7436957
Couldn't get my actors to pronounce the names properly
though...
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder horn hole spacing |
Thanks guys. I am fabricating my own tail wheel assembly now and wanted to know
the rudder horn size to gauge my tail wheel horn off of.
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: the blonde Pietenpoler |
| From: | "j_dunavin" <j_dunavin(at)hotmail.com> |
"Crank Snapping Corvair" ??? :x
She just lost her chance.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316783#316783
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: the blonde Pietenpoler |
That's a good one,- Jake thought he was watching cartoons.
-
Shad
We were unable to go to the Reklaw fly-in due to weather.
So, I wasted my time playing movie producer and came up
with a Pietenpol short-subject extra, 2:45 long:
http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/7436957
Couldn't get my actors to pronounce the names properly
though...
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
st" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Repairing wood screw holes |
| From: | Rick Holland <at7000ft(at)gmail.com> |
Or drill the hole a little bigger, screw in a barrel nut and use a machine
screw.
On Fri, Oct 22, 2010 at 10:28 PM, Steve Ruse wrote:
> My 28 year old, 600 hour plane has a few screw holes that are wearing
> out. I have a sheetmetal cover over the nose tank, screwed to the longerons
> on each side with 3/8" long screws. Despite my best efforts to barely
> torque these screws, some of them have become quite loose, and on my last
> flight I actually lost a screw. So, it is time to fix them. What is the
> best technique here?
>
> Gluing a snug-fitting dowel rod into the hole, then cutting and sanding it
> flush seems like it would work. Should I use T-88, or would Type II PVA
> (wood glue) be good? Type II would be easier but if T-88 is better that is
> what I want. I'd like the repairs to last another 30 years (or longer).
>
> It seems to me that it would be best not to drill out the holes, but
> instead to use a snug wood dowel and leaving any remaining fibers inside the
> hole. Am I wrong?
>
> Is there any reason I shouldn't use a hardwood dowel (like oak)? It seems
> like this would give more durable, longer lasting screw holes/threads.
>
> Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
>
> Steve Ruse
> Norman, OK
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | The Blonde Pietenpoler- Take II |
Well, I've finally gotten my actors to get their pronunciations
straightened out, and the young lady has realized that there
are six jugs on a Corvair now...
http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/7441025/
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Boatright <jboatri(at)emory.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: The Blonde Pietenpoler- Take II |
BEST.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gene Rambo <generambo(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Repairing wood screw holes |
The LAST thing you want to do is make the hole bigger or a stress riser. A
ll you need to do is have the screw have enough friction to get it to stay
in. Put some elmers glue on a kitchen match (preferably not the striking e
nd) and break it off in the hole. Has been the standard repair since Orvi
lle and Wilbur.
Gene
Date: Sat=2C 23 Oct 2010 17:45:51 -0600
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Repairing wood screw holes
From: at7000ft(at)gmail.com
Or drill the hole a little bigger=2C screw in a barrel nut and use a machin
e screw.
On Fri=2C Oct 22=2C 2010 at 10:28 PM=2C Steve Ruse wrote:
My 28 year old=2C 600 hour plane has a few screw holes that are wearing out
. I have a sheetmetal cover over the nose tank=2C screwed to the longerons
on each side with 3/8" long screws. Despite my best efforts to barely tor
que these screws=2C some of them have become quite loose=2C and on my last
flight I actually lost a screw. So=2C it is time to fix them. What is the
best technique here?
Gluing a snug-fitting dowel rod into the hole=2C then cutting and sanding i
t flush seems like it would work. Should I use T-88=2C or would Type II PV
A (wood glue) be good? Type II would be easier but if T-88 is better that
is what I want. I'd like the repairs to last another 30 years (or longer).
It seems to me that it would be best not to drill out the holes=2C but inst
ead to use a snug wood dowel and leaving any remaining fibers inside the ho
le. Am I wrong?
Is there any reason I shouldn't use a hardwood dowel (like oak)? It seems
like this would give more durable=2C longer lasting screw holes/threads.
Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
Steve Ruse
Norman=2C OK
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock=2C Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers=2C that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Ruse" <steve(at)wotelectronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Repairing wood screw holes |
I really like the idea of barrel nuts and machine screws. I hate to
remove any material from the longerons though, without knowing how much
is too much. I will look at the inserts to see what sizes are
available.
On several holes, the threads are pretty much gone. What if I insert a
hardwood dowel, sand flush, drill a hold, thread it with a screw, then
soak in CA glue to make the threads harder from the beginning? I did
catch Billy's note that end grain is not a good place for screw threads.
Thanks for the tips so far! This place has some invaluable information.
Steve Ruse
Norman, OK
From: Rick Holland
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 6:45 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Repairing wood screw holes
Or drill the hole a little bigger, screw in a barrel nut and use a
machine screw.
On Fri, Oct 22, 2010 at 10:28 PM, Steve Ruse
wrote:
My 28 year old, 600 hour plane has a few screw holes that are wearing
out. I have a sheetmetal cover over the nose tank, screwed to the
longerons on each side with 3/8" long screws. Despite my best efforts
to barely torque these screws, some of them have become quite loose, and
on my last flight I actually lost a screw. So, it is time to fix them.
What is the best technique here?
Gluing a snug-fitting dowel rod into the hole, then cutting and
sanding it flush seems like it would work. Should I use T-88, or would
Type II PVA (wood glue) be good? Type II would be easier but if T-88 is
better that is what I want. I'd like the repairs to last another 30
years (or longer).
It seems to me that it would be best not to drill out the holes, but
instead to use a snug wood dowel and leaving any remaining fibers inside
the hole. Am I wrong?
Is there any reason I shouldn't use a hardwood dowel (like oak)? It
seems like this would give more durable, longer lasting screw
holes/threads.
Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
Steve Ruse
Norman, OK
" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
Rick Holland
Castle Rock, Colorado
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
| From: | "Clayton Harper" <claytonharper(at)mac.com> |
Tucker,
It is great to see someone as you working on an airplane.
Don't worry about the nails. If they rusted and expanded to twice their volume
because their diameter is so small, it won't matter. That's not "gonna happen"
because the zinc will protect the nail. Anode/cathode.
The Captain? Does he still play the piano and wear the sailor hat?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316904#316904
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Ribs and tail and questions |
| From: | "cjborsuk" <cjborsuk(at)yahoo.com> |
Just completed tail parts - ribs complete. See attached pics. I left off a couple
of the gussets to be able to get the hardware installed. Is this necessary?
What are the more popular options for the hinges?
Also, I was in Lowe's looking at varnish. What are the better options here? Has
anyone used water based varnish?
Thanks,
Chuck
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316905#316905
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/completed_ribs_771.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tail_and_ribs_204.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Ribs and tail and questions |
Chuck,
You're thinking way ahead...good for you! You can see by the attached that I
just drilled a 1" access hole in those gussets that I needed access through.
I use Min-wax Spar Varnish.
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, Running!
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(22 ribs down.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of cjborsuk
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 2010 5:35 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Ribs and tail and questions
Just completed tail parts - ribs complete. See attached pics. I left off a
couple of the gussets to be able to get the hardware installed. Is this
necessary? What are the more popular options for the hinges?
Also, I was in Lowe's looking at varnish. What are the better options here?
Has anyone used water based varnish?
Thanks,
Chuck
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316905#316905
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/completed_ribs_771.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/tail_and_ribs_204.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another Piet roars to life! |
| From: | "899PM" <rockriverrifle(at)hotmail.com> |
Mounted the new Winfield aluminum head yesterday and ran the Piet today. Saw 1960rpms
on the tach with my Sensenich 76-42. An even 100 rpm gain over the stock
cast iron head with no fine tuning yet. It may just be my imagination but it
seems to run more smoothly than before. I had to mill the head for piston clearance
as my pistons protrude .070" from the deck. I milled .040" clearance in
the head per advice from Larry Brumfield. Graphite gasket is .080". Fun stuff!
--------
PAPA MIKE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316907#316907
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
| From: | "Tucker" <Tucker(at)tuckerrice.net> |
No, Captain doesn't play any instrument, but he is a charter boat captain. He
takes people on fishing trips. I love to fish too.
--------
Tucker
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316908#316908
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: worn out screw holes in wood |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
Steve, how big are the holes you are trying to repair? Many woodworking stores
sell plug cutters which will allow you to cut wood plugs from the face grain
of a board instead of settling for end-grain dowels for plugging holes. I would
take a face grain plug over a dowel, but if the dowel is what you have to settle
for then by all means harden the threads in them with the CA glue. I think
that this fix should last you for many more years. I personally think that
wood screws driven into CA-hardened wood are probably less resistant to backing
out from vibration than machine screws driven into brass thread inserts.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316916#316916
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kip and Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: worn out screw holes in wood |
Go with Gene Rambo's advice - it works, it's simple, it does not
create any risk of further weakening your longerons, and it can be
easily repeated in 20 years when you have to do it again. The only
thing I'd add is use Titebond 3 glue - much better than Elmer's, but
derived from it & nearly waterproof. I use it all the time for
structural repairs in non-aircraft applications & it's good stuff.
Kip Gardner
On Oct 24, 2010, at 10:34 PM, Billy McCaskill wrote:
>
>
> Steve, how big are the holes you are trying to repair? Many
> woodworking stores sell plug cutters which will allow you to cut
> wood plugs from the face grain of a board instead of settling for
> end-grain dowels for plugging holes. I would take a face grain
> plug over a dowel, but if the dowel is what you have to settle for
> then by all means harden the threads in them with the CA glue. I
> think that this fix should last you for many more years. I
> personally think that wood screws driven into CA-hardened wood are
> probably less resistant to backing out from vibration than machine
> screws driven into brass thread inserts.
>
> --------
> Billy McCaskill
> Urbana, IL
> tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=316916#316916
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Oscar Zuniga <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Repairing wood screw holes |
I had a wood screw wallow out where one of the tail
attach brackets mounts to the longeron. I used the
cyanoacrylate "super glue" in the hole, but instead
of a wood screw, I used a machine screw.
By the way, for those who are mounting vertical
stabilizers, consider offsetting the nose of the VS
to help with trimming the airplane in yaw. My VS
was set in line with the aircraft centerline and had
a bent metal rudder trim tab. I have now offset the
VS and removed the rudder trim tab. It's close, but
could have used just a smidge more offset of the VS
as well as a bit more right thrust on the engine
mount. Working on it, but the airplane is getting
closer and closer to flying hands and feet off, if
only for short periods of time.
I have seen setups where builders have left the mount
brackets for the nose of the VS quite a bit away from
it on either side so that washers could be added or
subtracted from each side, allowing for adjustment
of the offset.
Oscar Zuniga
Air Camper NX41CC
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags(at)hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Ribs and tail and questions |
I noticed that it appears in your picture, that the edges of the tail surfaces
are not shaped. It appears that the leading and trailing edges are flat. I am
curious if you plan on leaving them this way, or plan on shaping them later? (Or
is my eyesight going...?)
Attached are some pictures on the way I did my hinges. (Explained in HINT Video
#3 Tail).
I am using Minwax water based spar varnish. Which at this point, I was only able
to buy off of the web.
Your work looks very nice!
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
Michael, What size piano hinge is that?- That is a nice neat way of hingi
ng the tail, Just watch out for cracks in the aluminum hinge segments.- D
ad used the Vi Kaplar cast hinges, they work good but after 250+ hrs are st
arting to get a little bit of play in them, due to the steel clevis pin wea
ring out the aluminum hinge.- And as far as shaping the leading and trail
ing edges, that is a "Must Do", from a cosmetic standpoint, it can really d
etract from an otherwise good looking airplane, when left square.
-
Just my 2 cents,
-
Shad
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
The hinge is the largest AS&S sells in the extruded variety. The open span
is 2" and the thickness is .052...I believe. I cut my tail hinges at 2" lon
g each and have the typical set of 3 for each control surface.- As you no
ted, I will be watching the hinges closely for wear/cracks. I totally agree
with the shaping of the wood...I was hoping the builder just had not got t
o doing them yet.
Michael Perez
=0AKaretaker Aero
=0Awww.karetakeraero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jerry Dotson" <jdotson(at)centurylink.net> |
Shad,
I cut a groove 1/16 wide X 3/4 deep and epoxied the aluminum hinge in the groove.
Then I put 1/8 stainless pins vertical for insurance against the epoxy turning
loose. Thus I have full length hinges that will double as gap seals. I
made the edges where the hinges go 1/2 wider so cutting the groove didn't weaken
the structure. I think it would have been fine without it though. I will cross
drill the hinge on each end to retain the hinge pin with little 1/16 cotter
pins.
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
Started building NX510JD July, 2009
wing, tailfeathers done
using Lycoming O-235
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317011#317011
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/piano_hinge_212.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/piano_hinge_lock_672.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "skellytown flyer" <skellflyer1(at)yahoo.com> |
I don't know if any of you are looking for wood right now, and this is a copy of
a post on another site I watch. but it might be of some use to someone. Raymond
McCormick Lumber in Madison WI sells Sitka Spruce for less than A/C Spruce or Wicks. It is aircraft grade but not stamped aircraft grade. in other words they check it for knots, quarter sawn, number of rings per inch and deviation and runout and sap and compression etc. I think it comes in 20 rough sawn boards I bought 2ea 9 x 1 and had a friend of mine bring it back on his way home from OSH. It cost me $180 for the 2 boards which was almost enough to make my wings. The EAA used it in their replica of the Spirit of St. Louis. They will ship it freight too. here is their web site http://mccormicklumber.com/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317012#317012
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Welding other steels to 4130 |
I am curious if stainless steel, (300 series) can be welded to 4130?- I a
m working on my tail wheel assembly and most of it will be 4130, but I was
wondering about using a large SS bolt for the pivot of the castor wheel ass
embly. This bolt would be welded to 4130. IF NOT SS, should I use a CAD pla
ted bolt and blast off the coating, then weld it to the 4130? (Please don't
tell me to use a 4130 rod and cut my own threads! I have not cut threads o
n a lathe in over 20 years!)
-
Thanks.
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Welding other steels to 4130 |
| From: | "Dangerous Dave" <dsornbor(at)aol.com> |
Do Not,Do Not,weld stainless to any other steel.They are totally incompatible,you
would be better off with a nut plate or something similar as opposed to welding
any bolts,the heat will change the strength and on something like a tailwheel
it could have negative consequences.Like the tailwheel on the runway behind
your plane,way behind.Been welding and an A&P for 30 years.
--------
Building a Piet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317025#317025
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ribs and tail and questions |
| From: | "Dangerous Dave" <dsornbor(at)aol.com> |
I used Varathane water based Clear Satin Spar Urethane and am happy with it.For
the hinges I used AN44-14 eye bolts 125,000 psi,don't think they'll ever wear
out.
--------
Building a Piet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317027#317027
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bender" <jfaith(at)solairusaviation.com> |
Well I just had to tell someone.. after having a new resaw blade made for my antique
bandsaw.. and a couple of new tires.. it roared, well, hummed to life and
i got 75 sticks 6 foot long and 1/2 x 1/4 cut out today.. got my jig together
a few days ago.. i feel like i'm about to officially start building..big pile
of saw dust
Jeff :D
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317029#317029
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Welding other steels to 4130 |
Blasting off the cad, and welding the bolt should be ok, but not a ss bolt,
Bingallas tals about this in his books I believe.
-
Shad=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | t-88 mixing tubes |
| From: | "bcolleran" <bcolleran(at)comcast.net> |
Anyone ever use the t-88 mixing tubes that is advertised on aircraft spruce? I
am gonna try to spend a little more time at the house vs the hangar building
the ribs this winter. I have everything cut out and would enjoy something that
was not too messy to work with while sitting on the couch watching TV with the
wife.
Bill
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317031#317031
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
I was currious, the short hinge segments in the photo were a little concern
ing to me.- The full span hinge will be plenty strong.- Using safty wir
e to hold the hinge pin in would be ok to, if you can't find small enough c
otterpins.
-
Shad
--- On Mon, 10/25/10, Jerry Dotson wrote:
From: Jerry Dotson <jdotson(at)centurylink.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Tail Hinges
Date: Monday, October 25, 2010, 4:14 PM
et>
Shad,
I cut a groove 1/16 wide X 3/4 deep and epoxied the aluminum hinge in the g
roove. Then I put- 1/8 stainless pins- vertical for insurance against t
he epoxy turning loose. Thus I have full length hinges that will double as
gap seals.- I made the edges where the hinges go 1/2 wider so cutting the
groove didn't weaken the structure. I think it would have been fine withou
t it though. I will cross drill the hinge on each end to retain the hinge p
in with little 1/16 cotter pins.
--------
Jerry Dotson
59 Daniel Johnson Rd
Baker, FL 32531
Started building- NX510JD- July, 2009
wing, tailfeathers done
using Lycoming O-235
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317011#317011
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/piano_hinge_212.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/piano_hinge_lock_672.jpg
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Phillips" <pietflyr(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Welding other steels to 4130 |
In general, 300 series stainless is not a weldable grade. Nor is it as
strong as 4130. Why would you want to use stainless?
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of shad bell
Sent: Monday, October 25, 2010 8:12 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Welding other steels to 4130
Blasting off the cad, and welding the bolt should be ok, but not a ss bolt,
Bingallas tals about this in his books I believe.
Shad
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gtche98" <gtche98(at)gmail.com> |
Question for those that milled their own cap strip, or are more experienced in
resawing than I am. I have been thinking lately about purchasing my spruce from
McCormick in Madison, and understand that they are selling 1" thick rough cut.
If that is the case, how many "layers" of cap strip could I resaw out of a 1" thick
board? I know I could get 2. Is it possible (for an amateur) to get 3 layers?
With the thickness of the band saw blade, and the need to run everything
through the planner, I am worried that 3/32" of waste between layers wont be
enough. See attached picture that shows what I am talking about.
Thanks in advance for your expertise!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317044#317044
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/resaw_options_232.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TOM MICHELLE BRANT <tmbrant(at)msn.com> |
I'd say 3 would be tight if you're resawing.. Guess it depends how careful
you are when you're resawing - minimize the wavi-ness by setting up a fenc
e of course...
When I planed mine down I had about 7/8" thk boards. FWIW=2C it's a lot of
extra work for not that much savings=2C especially when you factor in the
trip there or shipping to your door. I'd just order the capstrip from ASS
or Wicks.. If you're doing spars or most of the other structure=2C Mckormi
cks is great.
Just my $.02
Tom B.
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Resaw Options
> From: gtche98(at)gmail.com
> Date: Mon=2C 25 Oct 2010 19:30:23 -0700
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> Question for those that milled their own cap strip=2C or are more experie
nced in resawing than I am. I have been thinking lately about purchasing m
y spruce from McCormick in Madison=2C and understand that they are selling
1" thick rough cut.
>
> If that is the case=2C how many "layers" of cap strip could I resaw out o
f a 1" thick board? I know I could get 2. Is it possible (for an amateur)
to get 3 layers? With the thickness of the band saw blade=2C and the need
to run everything through the planner=2C I am worried that 3/32" of waste b
etween layers wont be enough. See attached picture that shows what I am tal
king about.
>
> Thanks in advance for your expertise!
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317044#317044
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/resaw_options_232.jpg
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
Gtche98,
I know that many on this list have spoken of using planer, but I seriously
doubt that it's a requirement. Also, there is no need to lose 1/32" on the
edge of each board. What would be the purpose of that? I don't know about
using a band saw to cut strips...I think a table saw would be far better,
but please know that virtually ALL of my wood was cut on a table saw out of
standard pieces of 1x poplar. With capstrips, especially, there is no need
for perfection. The 1/2" width is important, as is 1/4" thickness, but it's
more important that all are the same. In the end, you will be clamping all
your ribs together and sanding the edges well...just my 2 cents...well,
actually it was closer to 5 cents...
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, Running!
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(22 ribs down.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of gtche98
Sent: Monday, October 25, 2010 7:30 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Resaw Options
Question for those that milled their own cap strip, or are more experienced
in resawing than I am. I have been thinking lately about purchasing my
spruce from McCormick in Madison, and understand that they are selling 1"
thick rough cut.
If that is the case, how many "layers" of cap strip could I resaw out of a
1" thick board? I know I could get 2. Is it possible (for an amateur) to
get 3 layers? With the thickness of the band saw blade, and the need to run
everything through the planner, I am worried that 3/32" of waste between
layers wont be enough. See attached picture that shows what I am talking
about.
Thanks in advance for your expertise!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317044#317044
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/resaw_options_232.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: t-88 mixing tubes |
| From: | "kevinpurtee" <kevin.purtee(at)us.army.mil> |
Bill - I used the tubes a couple of times and then went back to the bottles and
the little graduated plastic mixing cups. The only advantage they offer is if
you have a whole bunch of gluing to do. Waste of money and effort for building
ribs. Mix your glue on some plastic in the kitchen and put some plastic on
the flour around your work area so she doesn't shoot you if you drop the little
plastic cup of glue on her clean floor.
Kevin
--------
Kevin Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317057#317057
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Resaw Options |
| From: | "Kringle" <Mrkringles(at)msn.com> |
I looked at the same thing. I purchased some wood from mcmcormick but decided
to save it for some of the bigger sticks needed. Ordered enough capstrip to do
my ribs from aircraft Spruce last week.
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317060#317060
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Resaw Options |
| From: | "Dangerous Dave" <dsornbor(at)aol.com> |
Hi,I cut all my capstrips and milled them.Takes 86 to do the 3 piece wing.I used
1 1/2- 2"x9"x6' rough cut sitka.You loose about half the wood and it takes about
4 hours.Make sure you have the grain laying correctly for a capstrip.
--------
Building a Piet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317063#317063
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/piet_8_14_10_005_162.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Resaw Options |
| From: | "Kringle" <Mrkringles(at)msn.com> |
What is the correct grain orientation for capstrip?
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317065#317065
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Getting started |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Jeff,
Good for you. A good start on a long, but immensely satisfying road. Keep
at it little by little. I'll see you at Brodhead.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: bender <jfaith(at)solairusaviation.com>
Sent: Mon, Oct 25, 2010 6:33 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Getting started
m>
Well I just had to tell someone.. after having a new resaw blade made for
my
ntique bandsaw.. and a couple of new tires.. it roared, well, hummed to li
fe
nd i got 75 sticks 6 foot long and 1/2 x 1/4 cut out today.. got my jig
ogether a few days ago.. i feel like i'm about to officially start
uilding..big pile of saw dust
Jeff :D
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317029#317029
========================
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-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
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-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
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-= Thank you for your generous support!
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-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
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________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Resaw Options |
| From: | "bender" <jfaith(at)solairusaviation.com> |
U picked up five 6 foot long 5/4 x 4 boards... ripped them just over a half inch..
then ripped each half by 5/4 piece into 1/4x1/2 .. i think i have enough..stopped
counting after 80 pieces. i used a 3/4 blade with 10 teeth per inch
on my band saw
jeff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317072#317072
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Resaw Options |
| From: | "gtche98" <gtche98(at)gmail.com> |
Thanks to all for your ideas. Couple of things:
John - I think you bring up a very good point about the work that goes into making
your own capstrip. I may end up using McCormick for all the wood but the cap
strip and just order that from aircraft spruce.
Dave - I am by no means an expert, but is your grain running the right way? I would
have thought you would want it running in the other direction for strength.
Jeff - great info. You are the first I have heard mention 5/4 lumber. Was it a
full 5/4? Did you get it from McCormick? If I could get 5/4, I would feel much
more confident in resawing 3 1/4" sections out of the thickness of the board.
Gary
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317076#317076
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Michael Perez <speedbrake(at)sbcglobal.net> |
| Subject: | Follow up to welding 4130 |
Since reviewing the replies on here to my first 4130/SS welding post and looking
around on the web, I understand now why welding the two is a bad idea. Most
places I saw said then even if welding SS to SS, you should have a professional
do it, if possible. (Which I am not)
I thought I had heard that you cane weld metals with SS filler, maybe that started
the confusion I had with welding SS to other metals.
Anyhoo, the short of it is I am square now and fabricating. Thanks for the advice.
Michael Perez
Karetaker Aero
www.karetakeraero.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Model A disassembly, Chapter 1 |
| From: | "womenfly2" <keriannprice(at)hotmail.com> |
If the engine quits at 500 ft on takeoff, you'll wish you completely disassembled
it.
My "A" had a fiber gear. No issues with the teeth.
--------
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317099#317099
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | HP being produced? |
| From: | "899PM" <rockriverrifle(at)hotmail.com> |
Can anyone comment on approx HP being produced by my Model A turning a 76-42 wooden
prop @ 1960 rpms?
What about actual thrust? Has anyone measured thrust accurately?
--------
PAPA MIKE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317102#317102
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HP being produced? |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
I measured my full-power static thrust at 260 lbs with an "industrial" fis
h scale. My prop is 76/46. Static RPM is 1860.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: 899PM <rockriverrifle(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tue, Oct 26, 2010 11:43 am
Subject: Pietenpol-List: HP being produced?
Can anyone comment on approx HP being produced by my Model A turning a 76-
42
ooden prop @ 1960 rpms?
What about actual thrust? Has anyone measured thrust accurately?
--------
APA MIKE
ead this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317102#317102
========================
===========
-= - The Pietenpol-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
========================
===========
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
========================
===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Resaw Options |
My Piet is all Douglas Fir, but I bought 1 x 6 boards (finished out to
about 3/4 in) then planed them down to 1/2 inch, then ripped the 1/4 rib
caps. I bought my rib boards at Lowe's over a period of months to find
the best close grained boards, and most had horizontal grain. After I
cut my strips most had end grain and came out nice. Lots cheaper than
ordering cap strips too.
Ben
On 10/25/2010 10:30 PM, gtche98 wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "gtche98"
>
> Question for those that milled their own cap strip, or are more experienced in
resawing than I am. I have been thinking lately about purchasing my spruce
from McCormick in Madison, and understand that they are selling 1" thick rough
cut.
>
> If that is the case, how many "layers" of cap strip could I resaw out of a 1"
thick board? I know I could get 2. Is it possible (for an amateur) to get 3
layers? With the thickness of the band saw blade, and the need to run everything
through the planner, I am worried that 3/32" of waste between layers wont
be enough. See attached picture that shows what I am talking about.
>
> Thanks in advance for your expertise!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317044#317044
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/resaw_options_232.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Perry <dpilot88(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Leading edge material |
I am laying out my full size rib diagram for the GAU 612 airfoil and I
was wondering what most people are using for leading and trailing edge
material. Ready to buy some spruce and get going!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dpilot88(at)earthlink.net |
| Subject: | Re: Returned Mail: Leading edge material |
I apologize for this automatic reply to your email.
To control spam, I now allow incoming messages only from senders I
have approved beforehand.
If you would like to be added to my list of approved senders, please
fill out the short request form (see link below). Once I approve you,
I will receive your original message in my inbox. You do not need to
resend your message. I apologize for this one-time inconvenience.
Click the link below to fill out the request:
https://webmail.pas.earthlink.net/wam/addme?a=dpilot88@earthlink.net&id=11df-e152-ae07b30e-adc3-002128145bba
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge material |
I haven't gotten the LE/TE material yet. When the time comes I will probably look
at the using a piece of molding from Home Despot (or other DIY big-box store)
for the TE. It's been talked about here in the past if you search the archives.
I'm not sure if the ripped section from a stair railing will work as well for the
Riblett LE section as it has for people building the original Piet section.
If that doesn't work then I'll probably search the lumber stacks to find some
straight grain fir or hemlock and plane it to shape. Use a table saw to rip it
close to shape then hand-plane it to the final contour. After finally learning
how to correctly sharpen and set up a hand plane a few years ago in a class
by a local furniture builder, I look forward to planing the leading edge. What
better way to make some parts for your plane than with a plane?
Ken
On Oct 26, 2010, at 3:40 PM, Robert Perry wrote:
>
> I am laying out my full size rib diagram for the GAU 612 airfoil and I was wondering
what most people are using for leading and trailing edge material. Ready
to buy some spruce and get going!
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Resaw Options |
| From: | "Dangerous Dave" <dsornbor(at)aol.com> |
Hi,The grain should run as shown in the picture.The compresive strength is
that way.That is how it is shown in the old CAA and FAA books,Runs just like your
spar.Your wing needs compresive strength.I have seen it run the other way and
it cracks along the grain lines and the ribs can split.Hope this helps.Dave
--------
Building a Piet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317142#317142
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "peterk48" <peterk48(at)msn.com> |
Since I was prompt to announce on here that my first "Cuy" DVD did not work, I
think it only fair to make sure everyone knows that Mike sent me a new one today.
I am enjoying it as you read. Thanks Mike
--------
Pete
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317144#317144
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | shad bell <aviatorbell(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: t-88 mixing tubes |
Are they the "swirly" mixing tubes where you use epoxy cartriges, and a gun
?- We have those at work, they are nice, but would waste a lot building r
ibs.- The glue sets up in the mixing tubes and they are a 1 time use.-
They would be nice however doing something like the plywood sides on the fu
selage.
-
Shad
--- On Mon, 10/25/10, bcolleran wrote:
From: bcolleran <bcolleran(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: t-88 mixing tubes
Date: Monday, October 25, 2010, 8:13 PM
Anyone ever use the t-88 mixing tubes that is advertised on aircraft spruce
?- I am gonna try to spend a little more time at the house vs the hangar
building the ribs this winter.- I have everything cut out and would enjoy
something that was not too messy to work with while sitting on the couch w
atching TV with the wife.
Bill
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317031#317031
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge material |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
I did a most of the shaping of my leading and trainling edges on the tail section
with a hand plane. I roughed it in close to shape on the table saw, and then
finalized it with a small, very sharp and nicely tuned plane and did it in
very short order. Probably a lot quicker than trying to clamp everything down
and set up a router to to shape the parts. Using a sharp and tuned up hand plane
is a very satisfying thing in and of itself, but even more so when using
it to build airplane parts!
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317171#317171
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Resaw Options |
| From: | "bender" <jfaith(at)solairusaviation.com> |
the 5/4 i picked up was western red cedar.. i decided to use it after seeing that
others had also and looking at tons of wood info. it was a full 5/4 and perfectly
straight grain.. about 25-30 rings per inch.. it's beautiful wood.
I found 5/4 douglas fir and poplar also. I plan to use locally bought wood and
spruce doesn't exist in KY as far as i can tell... I'm an A&P/IA and know that
spruce is the norm.... but i'm comfortable with picking through the lumberyard
for the right stuff for me.
Jeff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317181#317181
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Getting started |
| From: | "bender" <jfaith(at)solairusaviation.com> |
thanks.... the last time i built a plane it took about 16 months... and there were
4 wings.. but only one seat..... i'm hoping brodhead will be sooner than later..call
me crazy but next year could happen.... not that i'm rushing
jeff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317182#317182
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
| From: | "Clayton Harper" <claytonharper(at)mac.com> |
Bad joke, circa 1975-1980. Look up "The Captain and Tennile".
I was told once the way to build an airplane was to something on it every day.
Great to see someone your age building a plane.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317187#317187
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bender" <jfaith(at)solairusaviation.com> |
Just wondering what the A engine folks think.... i'm thinking counterweighting
the crankshaft is probably the right idea.... but Bernie didn't i'm sure and i'm
betting lots of original crank, babbited engines were flown.. any thoughts
on babbit and weights ?
jeff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317192#317192
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
| From: | "Tucker" <Tucker(at)tuckerrice.net> |
Yeah, I showed your post to Captain (my grandpa) and he knew what you were talking
about. Muskrat Love? What's that about?
--------
Tucker
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317196#317196
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Doin' Some Ribs |
| From: | "flea" <jimgriggs(at)yahoo.com> |
Muskrat love is how archeologists will know that the seventies were nothing more
than a drug induced hallucination.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317212#317212
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AMsafetyC(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Last trips for the year |
well looks like the last trips of the year are approaching,
Southern California right now and again next, out on 11/2 till 11/6
Tulsa week of 11/15
Chicago week of 11/29
Thought I would share those dates with the list in hopes of getting
together for a few beets and what ever, or not! Either way that becomes the
precursor to Buildapalooza 2010!
As my learned counsel and attorney has advised making sawdust in copious
amounts is highly recommended, I need the therapy, thanks Dan, I needed that!
Let me now if you're interested.
John
Do not arvchive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Last trips for the year |
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
You better be stopping by for a visit to see the new place! :)
Ryan
On Wed, Oct 27, 2010 at 12:07 PM, wrote:
> well looks like the last trips of the year are approaching,
>
> Southern California right now and again next, out on 11/2 till 11/6
> Tulsa week of 11/15
> Chicago week of 11/29
>
> Thought I would share those dates with the list in hopes of getting
> together for a few beets and what ever, or not! Either way that becomes the
> precursor to Buildapalooza 2010!
>
> As my learned counsel and attorney has advised making sawdust in copious
> amounts is highly recommended, I need the therapy, thanks Dan, I needed
> that!
>
> Let me now if you're interested.
>
>
> John
>
> Do not arvchive
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge material |
| From: | "kevinpurtee" <kevin.purtee(at)us.army.mil> |
Ditto. Had rarely used a hand plane until I started walking back and forth in
front of the wing shaping the leading edge. Came out great.
--------
Kevin Purtee
NX899KP
Austin/Georgetown, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317238#317238
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Model A, more pics |
| From: | "Clayton Harper" <claytonharper(at)mac.com> |
Saw the pics. What let go?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317273#317273
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Getting started-info to all newbies on ribs |
| From: | John Fay <jfay1950(at)gmail.com> |
If you are getting ready to build ribs there is an excellent source of
information that has not been mentioned on this list before. Everyone
knows you need the books by Tony Bingelis, but the best article he
wrote on building ribs is in the February, 1994 issue of Sport
Aviation, page 79. I used the info in this article as my main source
for building the ribs. There are many great ideas and options
described there.
At the end of it, he also references an earlier article he wrote in
September, 1976.
These articles are available online for EAA members from their website.
John Fay
in Peoria
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Model A, more pics |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
There was a partial failure of the aluminum camshaft gear. Luckily the engine
continued running until Dan was able to successfully land the plane without incident.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317287#317287
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Perry <dpilot88(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge material |
Ken,
Sounds like fun! Thanks for the info.
Bob Perry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Perry <dpilot88(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge material |
That's probably why they call it a plane! Thanks for the info.
Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kringle" <Mrkringles(at)msn.com> |
Has anyone considered mounting the iPad in their aircraft? Since I haven't laid
out my dash panel yet I'm thinking of a hard mount. Any thoughts?
Advantages would be flight maps, google earth maps, email, gps, radar...etc. Disadvantages
may be viewing in bright light.
--------
John
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317293#317293
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ryan Mueller <rmueller23(at)gmail.com> |
Slight edit: disadvantages will be glare and viewing in bright
sunlight. Not may be...will be, guaranteed. :P
Because of the large size it will be more difficult to get it in to a
position that affords the best viewability without getting in your
way.
You will have to get the 3G enabled version if you want it to be able
to retrieve any data in the air, so there's larger purchase price
(minimum $629) and at least $15 a mo to AT&T. For that money (actually
a little less) you can buy a purpose built handheld aviation GPS which
will be better suited for that role.
It's ok if you want an iPad just to play Angry Birds...you don't have
to justify that by trying to make it into a GPS replacement. ;)
Ryan
Sent from my mobile device
On Oct 28, 2010, at 5:57 AM, Kringle wrote:
>
> Has anyone considered mounting the iPad in their aircraft? Since I haven't laid
out my dash panel yet I'm thinking of a hard mount. Any thoughts?
> Advantages would be flight maps, google earth maps, email, gps, radar...etc.
Disadvantages may be viewing in bright light.
>
> --------
> John
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317293#317293
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Counterweighting the Model A, and weight |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
And as most Piets are tail-heavy, the extra weight of the counterweighted crank
is probably a good thing. And if it makes the engine run smoother, the plane
will be more comfortable to fly and also will make the airframe last a bit longer
too as the vibration levels will be much less. I can't think of a good reason
not to use a counterweighted crank, pretty much every engine ever made since
1930 has had counterweighted cranks for a reason.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317308#317308
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KM Heide CPO/FAAOP <kmheidecpo(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Counterweighting the Model A, and weight |
Much agreement with Billy. Also, the liquid engine balancers are fantastic
if you have ever used one. Much smoother than a harmonic balancer.
-
Don't for get to have the prop balanced while running. I have had this done
on a few different airplanes. The mechanic uses a computer to dial in the
amount and placement of the washers to balance out the prop. I was a non-be
liever until I seen it done and the end results! Makes a-huge difference
in vibration and a really smooth running engine and prop.
-
.02 worth
-
KMHeide
-
--- On Thu, 10/28/10, Billy McCaskill wrote:
From: Billy McCaskill <billmz(at)cox.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Counterweighting the Model A, and weight
Date: Thursday, October 28, 2010, 8:38 AM
And as most Piets are tail-heavy, the extra weight of the counterweighted c
rank is probably a good thing.- And if it makes the engine run smoother,
the plane will be more comfortable to fly and also will make the airframe l
ast a bit longer too as the vibration levels will be much less.- I can't
think of a good reason not to use a counterweighted crank, pretty much ever
y engine ever made since 1930 has had counterweighted cranks for a reason.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317308#317308
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Turtle Deck and Instrument Panels |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
I am getting ready to start on my turtle deck and I'm wondering if a modification
to the dimensions would be appropriate or acceptable. The plans show the turtle
deck to be an elliptical shape, or perhaps an offset radius, but due to
my size I was wondering if it would be suitable to cut a taller radius like a
complete half circle, which would make for a taller seat back and instrument panel.
For example, if the fuse width at the seat back is 24", can I just cut
a 12" radius, or will this not work for some reason? I know that it will make
the fuselage look taller and require me to raise the instrument panel to match,
but for the purpose of seat belts, panel visibility, etc., I'm thinking it
might be a good idea. Any suggestions or recommendations as to why I should not
do this?
Thanks!
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317313#317313
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/turtle_back_108.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/inst_board_194.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Markle <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Turtle Deck and Instrument Panels |
Raise it. Not sure if people make it a full 12" radius but it does get raised.....if
you want, you can come measure mine to see what you think....
jm
-----Original Message-----
>From: K5YAC <hangar10(at)cox.net>
>Sent: Oct 28, 2010 10:18 AM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Turtle Deck and Instrument Panels
>
>
>I am getting ready to start on my turtle deck and I'm wondering if a modification
to the dimensions would be appropriate or acceptable. The plans show the
turtle deck to be an elliptical shape, or perhaps an offset radius, but due to
my size I was wondering if it would be suitable to cut a taller radius like a
complete half circle, which would make for a taller seat back and instrument
panel. For example, if the fuse width at the seat back is 24", can I just cut
a 12" radius, or will this not work for some reason? I know that it will make
the fuselage look taller and require me to raise the instrument panel to match,
but for the purpose of seat belts, panel visibility, etc., I'm thinking it
might be a good idea. Any suggestions or recommendations as to why I should
not do this?
>
>Thanks!
>
>--------
>Mark Chouinard
>Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317313#317313
>
>
>Attachments:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com//files/turtle_back_108.jpg
>http://forums.matronics.com//files/inst_board_194.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Turtle Deck and Instrument Panels |
| From: | Kip and Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
Mark,
I am raising mine, not sure how much yet, but significantly above the plans. If
you do the same for the panels, you'll also want to look at raising the cabanes
by several inches (there is a limit to what's practical on that, not sure
what, but it's been discussed on the list at some point in the past). Also, Andrew
Pietenpol told me years ago that he thought 9 turtleneck stringers looked
better than the 7 the plans call for & that's what he was doing on the project
he was working on at the time.
Kip Gardner
On Oct 28, 2010, at 11:45 AM, Jim Markle wrote:
>
> Raise it. Not sure if people make it a full 12" radius but it does get raised.....if
you want, you can come measure mine to see what you think....
>
> jm
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>> From: K5YAC <hangar10(at)cox.net>
>> Sent: Oct 28, 2010 10:18 AM
>> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Turtle Deck and Instrument Panels
>>
>>
>> I am getting ready to start on my turtle deck and I'm wondering if a modification
to the dimensions would be appropriate or acceptable. The plans show the
turtle deck to be an elliptical shape, or perhaps an offset radius, but due
to my size I was wondering if it would be suitable to cut a taller radius like
a complete half circle, which would make for a taller seat back and instrument
panel. For example, if the fuse width at the seat back is 24", can I just cut
a 12" radius, or will this not work for some reason? I know that it will make
the fuselage look taller and require me to raise the instrument panel to match,
but for the purpose of seat belts, panel visibility, etc., I'm thinking
it might be a good idea. Any suggestions or recommendations as to why I should
not do this?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> --------
>> Mark Chouinard
>> Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317313#317313
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/turtle_back_108.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/inst_board_194.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "TOM STINEMETZE" <TOMS(at)mcpcity.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Turtle Deck and Instrument Panels |
Mark:
Some additional height is OK but don't overdo it. You do not want to
overly affect the airflow over your vertical stab. I believe Master Cuy
stated that he raised his by 2 inches which is why I built mine that way.
Mine has not yet flown, however, so take my advice with a grain or two of
salt. (whatever that means)
Tom Stinemetze
N328X
>>> "K5YAC" 10/28/2010 10:18 AM >>>
I know that it will make the fuselage look taller and require me to raise
the instrument panel to match, but for the purpose of seat belts, panel
visibility, etc., I'm thinking it might be a good idea. Any suggestions
or recommendations as to why I should not do this?
Thanks!
--------
Mark Chouinard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | airlion <airlion(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Counterweighting the Model A, and weight |
----- Original Message ----
From: Billy McCaskill <billmz(at)cox.net>
Sent: Thu, October 28, 2010 9:38:59 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Counterweighting the Model A, and weight
And as most Piets are tail-heavy, the extra weight of the counterweighted crank
is probably a good thing. And if it makes the engine run smoother, the plane
will be more comfortable to fly and also will make the airframe last a bit
longer too as the vibration levels will be much less. I can't think of a good
reason not to use a counterweighted crank, pretty much every engine ever made
since 1930 has had counterweighted cranks for a reason.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317308#317308
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kip and Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Turtle Deck and Instrument Panels |
I've heard this mentioned before, but honestly, I wonder. I mean, most
guys bodies stick way up above the normal turtleneck & I'm sure that in
itself has a negative effect on the airflow to the vertical stabilizer.
I'd think that a higher turtleneck might actually result in improved
flow, with less turbulence, but I'm not the expert, so just thinking it
through as to what seems logical.
Chuck Gantzer has a secondary turtleneck on his Piet, I assume mainly as
a headrest, but maybe also to improve airflow & I believe his plane
flies just fine (haven't heard anything from Chuck on the list in a
couple of years, guess he's deep into his new project).
Kip Gardner
On Oct 28, 2010, at 12:12 PM, TOM STINEMETZE wrote:
> Mark:
>
> Some additional height is OK but don't overdo it. You do not want to
overly affect the airflow over your vertical stab. I believe Master Cuy
stated that he raised his by 2 inches which is why I built mine that
way. Mine has not yet flown, however, so take my advice with a grain or
two of salt. (whatever that means)
>
> Tom Stinemetze
> N328X
>
>
>
> >>> "K5YAC" 10/28/2010 10:18 AM >>>
> I know that it will make the fuselage look taller and require me to
raise the instrument panel to match, but for the purpose of seat belts,
panel visibility, etc., I'm thinking it might be a good idea. Any
suggestions or recommendations as to why I should not do this?
>
> Thanks!
>
> --------
> Mark Chouinard
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ben Charvet <bencharvet(at)gmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Turtle Deck and Instrument Panels |
From reading the Bingelis books, it is best if the shoulder harness
exits at shoulder height to avoid spinal compression in a crash. That
said, if you are real tall it might be best to make a streamline
headrest to exit the harness. One of the benefits of plan building is
in the end it is YOUR airplane. Draw some sketches to see what the
different options will look like and go from there.
Ben
On 10/28/2010 11:18 AM, K5YAC wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "K5YAC"
>
> I am getting ready to start on my turtle deck and I'm wondering if a modification
to the dimensions would be appropriate or acceptable. The plans show the
turtle deck to be an elliptical shape, or perhaps an offset radius, but due to
my size I was wondering if it would be suitable to cut a taller radius like
a complete half circle, which would make for a taller seat back and instrument
panel. For example, if the fuse width at the seat back is 24", can I just cut
a 12" radius, or will this not work for some reason? I know that it will make
the fuselage look taller and require me to raise the instrument panel to match,
but for the purpose of seat belts, panel visibility, etc., I'm thinking it
might be a good idea. Any suggestions or recommendations as to why I should
not do this?
>
> Thanks!
>
> --------
> Mark Chouinard
> Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317313#317313
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/turtle_back_108.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/inst_board_194.jpg
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Turtle Deck and Instrument Panels |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
Thanks Kip (and others) for the comments. I do plan to raise the cabanes 2".
I think they could go higher, but others have said that it starts to look a little
different overall if raised more than 2", so for now I am sticking to that
measurement. Also, I have planned to install 9 stringers as well. I'm not
sure if I came to that conclusion by looking at photos or if someone told me to
consider using 9, none the less, I'm glad that I remembered that advise.
Now, as for the height of the turtle deck and instrument panels... I don't guess
it matters much how high it is as long as it doesn't protrude unnecessarily
into the slip stream. I am tall, so I'll be obstructing the air flow some with
my upper torso, plus, I plan to install wind shields (at least short ones, as
many do), so I don't guess it will make much difference whether it is my body
or the structure that is in the way. I'll try to keep it to a minimum, but
I'll obviously need to make some adjustments for my size.
kipandbeth(at)earthlink.n wrote:
> Mark,
>
> I am raising mine, not sure how much yet, but significantly above the plans.
If you do the same for the panels, you'll also want to look at raising the cabanes
by several inches (there is a limit to what's practical on that, not sure
what, but it's been discussed on the list at some point in the past). Also,
Andrew Pietenpol told me years ago that he thought 9 turtleneck stringers looked
better than the 7 the plans call for & that's what he was doing on the project
he was working on at the time.
>
> Kip Gardner
>
> On Oct 28, 2010, at 11:45 AM, Jim Markle wrote:
> Raise it. Not sure if people make it a full 12" radius but it does get raised.....if
you want, you can come measure mine to see what you think....
>
> jm
>
>
> --
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317334#317334
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Yocum <yocum(at)fnal.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: Turtle Deck and Instrument Panels |
The WACO CRG has a huge turtledeck - the top is even with the top of the
windscreen. It was designed to compete in the 1930 Ford Air Tour. It
doesn't look bad:
http://www.airliners.net/photo/Waco-CRG/1231672/M/
Dan
On 10/28/2010 12:45 PM, K5YAC wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "K5YAC"
>
> Thanks Kip (and others) for the comments. I do plan to raise the cabanes 2".
I think they could go higher, but others have said that it starts to look a
little different overall if raised more than 2", so for now I am sticking to that
measurement. Also, I have planned to install 9 stringers as well. I'm not
sure if I came to that conclusion by looking at photos or if someone told me
to consider using 9, none the less, I'm glad that I remembered that advise.
>
> Now, as for the height of the turtle deck and instrument panels... I don't guess
it matters much how high it is as long as it doesn't protrude unnecessarily
into the slip stream. I am tall, so I'll be obstructing the air flow some with
my upper torso, plus, I plan to install wind shields (at least short ones,
as many do), so I don't guess it will make much difference whether it is my body
or the structure that is in the way. I'll try to keep it to a minimum, but
I'll obviously need to make some adjustments for my size.
>
>
> kipandbeth(at)earthlink.n wrote:
>> Mark,
>>
>> I am raising mine, not sure how much yet, but significantly above the plans.
If you do the same for the panels, you'll also want to look at raising the cabanes
by several inches (there is a limit to what's practical on that, not sure
what, but it's been discussed on the list at some point in the past). Also,
Andrew Pietenpol told me years ago that he thought 9 turtleneck stringers looked
better than the 7 the plans call for& that's what he was doing on the project
he was working on at the time.
>>
>> Kip Gardner
>>
>> On Oct 28, 2010, at 11:45 AM, Jim Markle wrote:
>> Raise it. Not sure if people make it a full 12" radius but it does get raised.....if
you want, you can come measure mine to see what you think....
>>
>> jm
>>
>>
>> --
>
>
> --------
> Mark Chouinard
> Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317334#317334
>
>
--
Dan Yocum
Fermilab 630.840.6509
yocum@fnal.gov, http://fermigrid.fnal.gov
"I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things."
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Turtle Deck and Instrument Panels |
| From: | helspersew(at)aol.com |
Gentlemen,
I did not raise my turtledeck. The way it was designed is just fine. If it
was good enough for Bernerd, it's good enough for me.
Dan Helsper,
Poplar Grove, IL.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kip and Beth Gardner <kipandbeth(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Thu, Oct 28, 2010 11:24 am
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Turtle Deck and Instrument Panels
I've heard this mentioned before, but honestly, I wonder. I mean, most gu
ys bodies stick way up above the normal turtleneck & I'm sure that in itse
lf has a negative effect on the airflow to the vertical stabilizer. I'd
think that a higher turtleneck might actually result in improved flow, wi
th less turbulence, but I'm not the expert, so just thinking it through as
to what seems logical.
Chuck Gantzer has a secondary turtleneck on his Piet, I assume mainly as
a headrest, but maybe also to improve airflow & I believe his plane flies
just fine (haven't heard anything from Chuck on the list in a couple of
years, guess he's deep into his new project).
Kip Gardner
On Oct 28, 2010, at 12:12 PM, TOM STINEMETZE wrote:
Mark:
Some additional height is OK but don't overdo it. You do not want to over
ly affect the airflow over your vertical stab. I believe Master Cuy state
d that he raised his by 2 inches which is why I built mine that way. Mine
has not yet flown, however, so take my advice with a grain or two of salt
. (whatever that means)
Tom Stinemetze
N328X
>>> "K5YAC" 10/28/2010 10:18 AM >>>
I know that it will make the fuselage look taller and require me to raise
the instrument panel to match, but for the purpose of seat belts, panel
visibility, etc., I'm thinking it might be a good idea. Any suggestions
or recommendations as to why I should not do this?
Thanks!
--------
Mark Chouinard
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matr
onics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
ref="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
ref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/con
tribution
========================
===========
-= - The Pietenpol-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
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-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
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-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
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-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
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===========
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Turtle Deck and Instrument Panels |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
I understand Dan, and I am trying my best to adhere to the plans, but in reality,
I am 6'5" tall... something that Bernard didn't have to consider. I have sat
in my fuselage with a simple seat that should closely replicate my position
in the rear pit and I've found that the rear seat back/turtle deck front is way
too low to provide for effective safety harness installation, not to mention
the added comfort of an upper back rest.
Unfortunately, I have a much larger than average framework, but I don't intend
to keep that from letting me build or fly this airplane.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317357#317357
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Dever <chiefpepperhead(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Turtle Deck and Instrument Panels |
Yeah=2C what you said too
Doug Dever
In beautiful Stow Ohio
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Fwd: Turtle Deck and Instrument Panels
> From: hangar10(at)cox.net
> Date: Thu=2C 28 Oct 2010 17:17:22 -0700
> To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
> I understand Dan=2C and I am trying my best to adhere to the plans=2C but
in reality=2C I am 6'5" tall... something that Bernard didn't have to cons
ider. I have sat in my fuselage with a simple seat that should closely repl
icate my position in the rear pit and I've found that the rear seat back/tu
rtle deck front is way too low to provide for effective safety harness inst
allation=2C not to mention the added comfort of an upper back rest.
>
> Unfortunately=2C I have a much larger than average framework=2C but I don
't intend to keep that from letting me build or fly this airplane.
>
> --------
> Mark Chouinard
> Wings=2C Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317357#317357
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Doug Dever <chiefpepperhead(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Turtle Deck and Instrument Panels |
Keep in mind Mr Pietenpol was not a very tall fellow. Bingillis and others
have a valid point about the shoulder harness. I am not all that tall=2C
but I'm 6'3 when sitting. A little vertically challenged in the leg dept.
So that is a concern to me also.
Doug Dever
In beautiful Stow Ohio
Subject: Fwd: Pietenpol-List: Turtle Deck and Instrument Panels
Date: Thu=2C 28 Oct 2010 17:58:43 -0400
From: helspersew(at)aol.com
Gentlemen=2C
I did not raise my turtledeck. The way it was designed is just fine. If it
was good enough for Bernerd=2C it's good enough for me.
Dan Helsper=2C
Poplar Grove=2C IL.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Another Turtle Deck Question |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
Stringers... I don't see any mention of dimensions. I'm sure that length varies
due to different designs, but I am wondering more about width and height. Perhaps
it depends on the type of wood? I have a plank of Ash that the wife helped
me rip into nine 3/4" x 1/4" x 80-something inch long strips. Is this suitable?
They seem a little flimsy on their own, but when cut to ~74" and attached
to the formers, I think they should be pretty strong considering they are
primarily only used to support fabric.
What are you guys using? Of course, I would prefer spruce, especially out back
(due to weight), but I'm trying to use what I have. Concerns?
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317361#317361
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Boothe" <gboothe5(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Another Turtle Deck Question |
Mark
I increased my turtledecks 1 1/2". You can see that I have 11 stringers that
are slightly wider than 1/4". All is poplar....not flight tested.
Gary Boothe
Cool, Ca.
Pietenpol
WW Corvair Conversion, Running!
Tail done, Fuselage on gear
(22 ribs down.)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of K5YAC
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2010 5:50 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Another Turtle Deck Question
Stringers... I don't see any mention of dimensions. I'm sure that length
varies due to different designs, but I am wondering more about width and
height. Perhaps it depends on the type of wood? I have a plank of Ash that
the wife helped me rip into nine 3/4" x 1/4" x 80-something inch long
strips. Is this suitable? They seem a little flimsy on their own, but when
cut to ~74" and attached to the formers, I think they should be pretty
strong considering they are primarily only used to support fabric.
What are you guys using? Of course, I would prefer spruce, especially out
back (due to weight), but I'm trying to use what I have. Concerns?
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317361#317361
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge material |
Didn't know you where planing shavings out of the sky, did you?:-)
I have a chart of woods and their strength characteristics here;
http://clifdawson.ca/Tools_and_Tips.html
Halfway down the page.
Clif
>
> That's probably why they call it a plane! Thanks for the info.
> Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Markle <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another Turtle Deck Question |
I would try to use the lightest wood available. When oriented properly, structural
integrity will probably be more than adequate with spruce (450 kg/cu.m) or
even red cedar (380 kg/cu.m)...or probably a lot of different lightweight materials.
I would avoid ash (670 kg/cu.m) because of it's weight.
jm
-----Original Message-----
>From: K5YAC <hangar10(at)cox.net>
>Sent: Oct 28, 2010 7:49 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Another Turtle Deck Question
>
>
>Stringers... I don't see any mention of dimensions. I'm sure that length varies
due to different designs, but I am wondering more about width and height.
Perhaps it depends on the type of wood? I have a plank of Ash that the wife helped
me rip into nine 3/4" x 1/4" x 80-something inch long strips. Is this suitable?
They seem a little flimsy on their own, but when cut to ~74" and attached
to the formers, I think they should be pretty strong considering they are
primarily only used to support fabric.
>
>What are you guys using? Of course, I would prefer spruce, especially out back
(due to weight), but I'm trying to use what I have. Concerns?
>
>--------
>Mark Chouinard
>Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317361#317361
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another Turtle Deck Question |
| From: | "K5YAC" <hangar10(at)cox.net> |
I agree with ya Jim... I wouldn't mind buying more spruce but I can't remember
if the max length for ground shipping is 6' or 8'. If it's 8'. I'll just order
some, if I can only go 6' I'll have to look around locally.
--------
Mark Chouinard
Wings, Center Section and Empannage framed up - Working on Fuselage
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317371#317371
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854(at)shaw.ca> |
I just discovered this. For those of us who have
Sudden Inspirational Thoughts that need drawing
out and no ruler in sight;
http://www.printfreegraphpaper.com/
Now you can design that Tigermoth/Pietenpol
canopy when the Boss isn't looking.
Clif
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Another Turtle Deck Question |
| From: | "Pieti Lowell" <Lowellcfrank(at)yahoo.com> |
May I ask a question,
How are you controlling your rudder and tail wheel ? If by the same rudder cables,
are the rudder and tail wheel control arms the same length ? as they must
turn equal radius to get full rudder control. If the tail wheel arms are shorter
the rudder will not swing fully.
Pieti Lowell
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317372#317372
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Resaw Options |
| From: | "coxwelljon" <coxwelljon(at)frontiernet.net> |
gtche98 wrote:
> Question for those that milled their own cap strip, or are more experienced in
resawing than I am. I have been thinking lately about purchasing my spruce
from McCormick in Madison, and understand that they are selling 1" thick rough
cut.
>
> If that is the case, how many "layers" of cap strip could I resaw out of a 1"
thick board? I know I could get 2. Is it possible (for an amateur) to get 3
layers? With the thickness of the band saw blade, and the need to run everything
through the planner, I am worried that 3/32" of waste between layers wont
be enough. See attached picture that shows what I am talking about.
>
> Thanks in advance for your expertise!
If you have a bandsaw that is the only way to go. Get a woodslicer blade here http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer-resaw-bandsaw-blades.aspx . This blade is expensive $30 + but it is amazing. The finish is nearly as good as if run through a planer or jointer. Lightly sand and you are done. With this blade you can easily get 3 cap strips out of a 1" board and not have to plane them. As an aside I cut all of the 1/4" planking for a wood strip canoe with a band saw and really saved a lot of material With the wood slicer blade I have cut as thin as 1/8" x 6" panels from a 1 x 6 maple board and they needed very little sanding.
--------
Jon Coxwell
GN-1 Builder
Recycle and preserve the planet
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317374#317374
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Resaw Options |
| From: | "Billy McCaskill" <billmz(at)cox.net> |
Ditto what Jon said about using the bandsaw for resawing thin strips vs. using
the table saw. I own both machines, and find it much safer and easier and get
far less kerf waste with the bandsaw.
I have consistently resawn veneers as thin as .030" on my Delta bandsaw but would
never try to get such thin slices on a table saw if there were any way around
it. The 1/8" kerf from the table saw blade is tremendously wasteful when trying
to maximize the amount of thin strips you can cut from a larger board.
The keft from a good bandsaw resawing blade is usually less than 1/16" and as
Jon said, if you use a good blade, planing is not necessary. A light sanding
is all you will need.
--------
Billy McCaskill
Urbana, IL
tail section almost done, starting on ribs soon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317379#317379
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack" <jack(at)textors.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Leading edge material |
Cliff,
The flute finger hole burner...I'm lost, what is that for?
Thanks,
Jack
DSM
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clif Dawson
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2010 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material
Didn't know you where planing shavings out of the sky, did you?:-)
I have a chart of woods and their strength characteristics here;
http://clifdawson.ca/Tools_and_Tips.html
Halfway down the page.
Clif
>
> That's probably why they call it a plane! Thanks for the info.
> Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Markle <jim_markle(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Leading edge material |
:-) I know what it's for....
There aren't too many craftsmen with skills like Clif's...and one of the items
he "crafts" is a Native American Flute.
There are some pictures at: http://clifdawson.ca/FLUTES.html
I'm proud to own one of his flutes and I can tell you it's a work of art.....
Now if I could just learn to play it as well as Clif......
jm
-----Original Message-----
>From: Jack <jack(at)textors.com>
>Sent: Oct 29, 2010 5:44 AM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material
>
>
>Cliff,
>The flute finger hole burner...I'm lost, what is that for?
>Thanks,
>Jack
>DSM
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clif Dawson
>Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2010 8:27 PM
>To: pietenpol-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading edge material
>
>
>Didn't know you where planing shavings out of the sky, did you?:-)
>
>I have a chart of woods and their strength characteristics here;
>http://clifdawson.ca/Tools_and_Tips.html
>Halfway down the page.
>
>Clif
>
>>
>> That's probably why they call it a plane! Thanks for the info.
>> Bob
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Turtle Deck and Instrument Panels |
| From: | "taildrags" <taildrags(at)hotmail.com> |
I'm already ahead of you. I found an old SNJ canopy and fitted it to 41CC. (I
guess I should mention that I did it with paper, scissors, and glue though ;o)
--------
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
Air Camper NX41CC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317393#317393
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/greenhouse2_169.jpg
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Hor. Stab. Question |
| From: | "echobravo4" <eab4(at)comcast.net> |
hi everybody-
i have my horizontal stab. jigged up and ready to start gluing but
noticed that when i take what will be the bottom of the fin and lay
it on the hor. stab. that it only sits on the main beam gusset and the
3/16 ply doubler on the spar- it's not touching the leading edge
doubler.
Is that normal or have i screwed something up!?
Thanks-
Earl
--------
Earl Brown
I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I
intended to be.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=317394#317394
________________________________________________________________________________
The only places where I've used ash on my Pietenpol are in the landing gea
October 07, 2010 - October 29, 2010
Pietenpol-Archive.digest.vol-jt