RV-Archive.digest.vol-aw
December 09, 1995 - December 25, 1995
>house is a split rear entrance).
>
>My motivations for using the basement
>-------------------------------------
>
>I live in Edmonton, Alberta, where the winters are long and
>cold. My garage is a poorly-constructed, unheated, one-car on a
>poor concrete pad; I would have to build an entirely new
>garage which, though nice to have, would delay starting the
>project by at least a year. I already have 220V power, good
>lighting, and heat in the basement.
>
>My concerns about building in the basement are
>----------------------------------------------
>
>- noise; bucking rivets makes a heck of a racket, so while I hope
> to enlist my wife's help for some of it, she might not be too
> enthusiastic about all that racket when she's trying to do
> something else (she's pretty game though--she even let me rebuild
> the engine from my pickup in the kitchen when I was younger and
> even more foolish than I am now)
>
>- fumes; how much of problem will fumes be when working with
> primers and other chemicals; can I plan it so I only have to do
> those jobs in the summer, so I can take them out to the garage,
> or will I be working with odorous chemicals regularly?
>
>- insurance; does anyone know how my house insurance company would
> react to knowing I had that kind of operation going on in the
> basement?
>
>Has anyone done this? Will I be happier in the long run if I just bite
>the bullet and build myself a nice garage?
>
>Tedd McHenry
>Edmonton
>Haven't started yet :^(
Richard E. Bibb TEL: (301) 571-2507
DOD Program Manager PAGE: (800) 719-1246
FORE Systems ALT TEL: (703) 478-9603
6905 Rockledge Drive FAX: (301) 564-4408
Suite 800
Bethesda, MD 20817 rbibb(at)fore.com
Check out our WEB page: http://www.fore.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jthomp1(at)interserv.com |
| Subject: | Re: 14 years of RV-ator |
Please let me know how to order "14 Years of RV-ator".
Thanks,
Jim Thompson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WCannon313(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Engine manual for 0-360 A1A |
Hi Folks
I am beginning to work on the engine installation of my -6. I am using an
O-360 A1A and would like to obtain a maintainance and instl. ? manual if
there is such a thing. I have some of the better generic references on this
subject, but find myself wondering if there are any Lycoming manuals and if
so where I might obtain them. Any advice? Thanks in advance.
Walt Cannon
Seattle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDelveau(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Adhesive for Glass Tips |
Thanks for all the responses to my question about attaching the fiberglass
tips.
I read somewhere that proseal could be used in this type of application. Is
there any other common (off-the-shelf) stuff I could get local?
(Matt, I tried using proper case to "get" the archive file and got the same
response. No big deal but if you have any other thoughts I'd be glad to try
it again.)
Thanks
Jim Delveau RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com (William Costello ) |
| Subject: | Re: Engine manual for 0-360 A1A |
You wrote:
>
>Hi Folks
>
>I am beginning to work on the engine installation of my -6. I am using
an O-360 A1A and would like to obtain a maintainance and instl. ?
manual if there is such a thing. I have some of the better generic
references on this subject, but find myself wondering if there are any
Lycoming manuals and if so where I might obtain them. Any advice?
Thanks in advance.
>
>Walt Cannon
>Seattle
Walt, Aircraft Spruce sells Lycoming engine overhaul manuals -- 95
Catalog p. 416 800-824-1930, $16.35 to about $50 depending on manual.
For those out there still looking, Penn Yan Aero of Florida offers a
Lycoming info pack. Their # is 800-899-2957. I am still very much
looking (as are probably 1000 others of you!), so if anyone has a hot
tip on a good used Lyc source, send it to me directly! :))
Bill Costello
RV-6 on emp, just received wing kit
Chicago
bcos(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 14 years of RV-ator |
Sorry, we sold out of our last 25 copies (within 24 hours of posting the
message)
BUT: You should still be able to get one from 1 of our 3 wholesalers. They
are:
Van's Aircraft (503) 647-5117
Avery Tools (817) 439-8400
Aircraft Spruce (800) 824-1930 p/n 13-25450
However, they will not be offering the special closeout price which I
announced. The regular price is $25.95.
Thanks for your interest.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)ammeterj.seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | F/S O-320 150 HP |
Forgot to post this to the LIST. I posted in the USENET area, though. A
friend of mine is parting out his Seahawker and has an O-320 E2D for sale.
He is asking $11,000 for it. It is 75 SMOH, done locally at a very
reputable FBO. It is currently on the Seahawker and can be run. The last
annual (which I helped with) the compression numbers were from 72 to 75/80.
You can call Merrill at (206) 255-5580. The aircraft is at Arlington (S88)
just north of Seattle.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)ammeterj.seanet.com
Seattle WA, USA
RV-6 N16JA
Flying 5 years
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Q: Navaid servo location |
Installed Navaid three years and
400 flt hrs ago. After initial "fine-
tuning", has worked very well.
1. Installed under co-pilot stick
in RV-6A. Placed servo on a
1/8 inch plate, put angles on
end to attach to ribs. Moved
around until "move freely in
all directions". Servo on plate,
angles on end of plate attached
to ribs.
2. Driven by GPS/LORAN/VOR, or
just in trk mode. (Switch selector
for one of these).
3. For Navaid to be driven by GPS/LORAN
had to adjust GPS/LORAN for 1/10th of
mile. (Normal set up is about 4/10ths)
Tracks exactly as advertised.
Have found this unit to be able to handle
"cross-wind, ruff weather" better than
I can.
Real handy on solo, long, cross-country
in trying to follow road map (or sectional).
Marvin N63TX(at)aol.com 4 1/2 yrs flyingRV6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com (William Costello ) |
| Subject: | Lycoming Engine Model Code |
Hi Folks,
Since several of you have spoken about engines lately and I imagine we
are all eventually interested in one, I thought you might be interested
in the Lycoming Engine Model Code page from the Lycoming Direct Drive
Engine Overhaul manual I bought from Spruce. It reads:
Description of Engine Model Code
Example: TIO 541 E1B4D
PREFIX DISPLACEMENT SUFFIX
L - Lefthand Engine Rot. 000 E - Power Section & Rating
T - Turbocharged Note: 001 1 - Nose Section
V - Vertical Helicopter indicates B - Accessory Section
H - Horizontal Helicopter integral 4 - Counterweight Applic.
A - Aerobatic accessory D - Dual Magneto
I - Fuel Injected drive
G - Geared Nose Section (cubic inch)
S - Supercharged
O - Opposed Cylinder
Hope this is of general interest.
Bill Costello
RV-6 on emp just received wing kit
Chicago
bcos(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine/prop queston |
>
> Can a constant-speed prop be used on an O-320-E2A?
>Hopefully one of you engine experts will know all about this.
>
> Thanks.
>
>Cheryl Sanchez
>
Cheryl, What did you find out about use of a CS prop on your engine?
Bob Skinner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
Hello everyone,
Back about a month ago I ask the List if anyone knew anything about CNC milling
setups. I received some excellent feedback on the subject and a number
of people asked me to summerize what I found. Well, I went one better - I
setup an awesome WEB page with all of my findings. You can also find a
little writeup on the new Matronics FuelScan that is due to ship in just a
few weeks - color pictures and everything! Have a look and let me know
what you think.
http://www.matronics.com/cnc
Matt Dralle
Matronics
RV-List Admin.
RV-4 Builder
Entrepreneur
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt G. Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com> |
| Subject: | Re: AhHa! CNC and the Sherline Mill Summary... |
Jens wrote:
>
> "Matt G. Dralle" wrote:
>
> >There are color pictures of the mill, and CNC
> >gear and many random comments on the whole thing. Check it
> >out.
> >
> >http://www.matronics.com/cnc
>
> Is it just me or do other people have problems going to this address ?
> I keep getting a 'Netscape caused a General Protection Fault' message
> as soon as I enter into this page (works ok on other pages ...)
Make sure that you have the latest version of Netscape when viewing
this page. You can get the latest version (2.0b3) from:
http://home.netscape.com/comprod/mirror/index.html
As far as my page is concerned, you might also try adding "/index.html"
for example:
http://www.matronics.com/cnc/index.html
Be sure to let me know if you contiune to have problems - I would
like to get this working. I havn't had any problems with
Netscape 1.2N or 2.0b3.
Matt Dralle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)crl.com> |
| Subject: | Sump help for IO 320-B1A |
I *may* be able to acquire a runout IO320B1A from a twin Comanche. This
is the engine that has the fuel injection servo mounted on the aft side
of the sump. Has anyone here on rv-list successfully installed one of
these on an RV-6? If so, did you swap the sump for one that mounts the
injector servo on the bottom?
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
email:barnhart(at)crl.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bobh(at)synopsys.com (Bob Haan) |
Matt,
Very nice web page. Great photos.
Thought you would like to know that I accessed it with no problems from a
MAC using Netscape 1.1N.
Bob
>Hello everyone,
>
>Back about a month ago I ask the List if anyone knew anything about CNC milling
>setups. I received some excellent feedback on the subject and a number
>of people asked me to summerize what I found. Well, I went one better - I
>setup an awesome WEB page with all of my findings. You can also find a
>little writeup on the new Matronics FuelScan that is due to ship in just a
>few weeks - color pictures and everything! Have a look and let me know
>what you think.
>
>http://www.matronics.com/cnc
>
>Matt Dralle
>Matronics
>RV-List Admin.
>RV-4 Builder
>Entrepreneur
>
>
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Bob Haan Office 503-531-2366
Pacific Northwest Mobile 503-720-1132
Account Manager FAX 503-690-6906
Synopsys Modeling Group E-mail bobh(at)synopsys.com
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
Thanks Bob!
Matt
>--------------
>Matt,
>
>Very nice web page. Great photos.
>
>Thought you would like to know that I accessed it with no problems from a
>MAC using Netscape 1.1N.
>
>Bob
>
>>Hello everyone,
>>
>>Back about a month ago I ask the List if anyone knew anything about CNC milling
>>setups. I received some excellent feedback on the subject and a number
>>of people asked me to summerize what I found. Well, I went one better - I
>>setup an awesome WEB page with all of my findings. You can also find a
>>little writeup on the new Matronics FuelScan that is due to ship in just a
>>few weeks - color pictures and everything! Have a look and let me know
>>what you think.
>>
>>http://www.matronics.com/cnc
>>
>>Matt Dralle
>>Matronics
>>RV-List Admin.
>>RV-4 Builder
>>Entrepreneur
>>
>>
>
>++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
>Bob Haan Office 503-531-2366
>Pacific Northwest Mobile 503-720-1132
>Account Manager FAX 503-690-6906
>Synopsys Modeling Group E-mail bobh(at)synopsys.com
>
>++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>
>
>--------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Q: Navaid servo location |
Could someone provide more information about the Navaid device?
1) Cost
2) Where to get it
3) Capabilities - options
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Taylor <gmt(at)perth.DIALix.oz.au> |
gmt(at)perth.DIALix.oz.au
Graham Taylor
119 Darley Circle
Bullcreek
WA 6149
AUSTRALIA
61-9-332 4094 (h)
61-9-310 3254 (w)
61-9-310 6048 (f)
About 5 months off finishing RV-6A #21545. Zero timed O-360 fitted, with
Bernard Warnke prop. Editor of Western Flyer, monthly newsletter
(16pages) of the West Australian Division of Sport Aircraft Association
of Australia (SAAA). WA has about 40 RV projects, about one quarter of
all the Australian projects with only 1/17 of the population. There was
a good write up in RVator afte Van's visit earlier this year. He and
Diane stayed at our plaec for a couple of days.
Graham taylor (VH-RCV)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com (William Costello ) |
Matt,
I accessed your Web Page with Netcom's NetCruiser and the pix look
great -- both of you and the FuelScan (won't say which one looks
better!) I printed them out with my LaserJet IIP and the print is
clear as anything.
I'll order the brochure on the FuelScan to see what is needed in the
tanks, since I am close to starting the wings.
Bill Costello
RV-6 on emp, wing kit just arrived
Chicago
bcos(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JerryFlyRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Q: Navaid servo location |
*****Stuff left out******
> I'd appreciate learning your thoughts on the value of the Navaid and
>about the wing mounting location. (And I'm sure other readers would too.)
>Thanks, Bob
Bob
I don't have any thoughts on mounting the Servo in the wing because I don't
have any experience with that setup.
I have only had to get to mine once to adjust the clutch as it was a little
to loose.
At that time I made a extra removeable plate on top of the servo cover so
that I would not have to remove it to adjust if needed again, I still have to
take up the seat floor but that does not take to long with a DEWALT 12 volt
portable screw gun :=). And I don't have to take the seat rib apart. I like
the way mine works and it tracks the FLYBUDDY GPS right on course. You do
have to be within a few degrees of course for it to get a good lock on. On a
300 mile cross country it will not hunt more than 2 or 3 degrees from center
of course. With mine I have done some experiments with rough air, and flying
in the turbulence of my hanger partners RV-6. I have found that it flys the
rough air and turbulence better than I can. I don't know how old your unit is
but on mine they had updated the trim sensitivity which I hear works much
better than some of the older units.
The one draw back that I have found is, I had one of Van's simple trim
controls before the Navaid, which worked really well for unbalence such as
wing heavy from fuel burn. Now when I turn the Navaid off I don't have any
aileron trim control, and you can not have both hooked up at the same time
although you might be able to do that with the servo in the wing there is
just not room with servo under the seat.
Overall it makes flying xcountry a whole lot easier reading maps etc. Now if
I can just get my Rocky MTN. ENCODER to to hook up to a servo and hold
altitude for me:=).
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JerryFlyRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sump help for IO 320-B1A |
>I *may* be able to acquire a runout IO320B1A from a twin Comanche. This
>is the engine that has the fuel injection servo mounted on the aft side
>of the sump. Has anyone here on rv-list successfully installed one of
>these on an RV-6? If so, did you swap the sump for one that mounts the
>injector servo on the bottom?
>
>Best Regards,
>Dave Barnhart
>rv-6 sn 23744
>email:barnhart(at)crl.com
Dave
My hanger mate has a IO 320-B1A on his RV-6 and yes he did change the sump
for the bottom mounted servo. It has been running great his fuel injected 320
is almost as good as my 360 and now that he recently put a CS on it he can
leave me in the dust on takeoff and climb.
I think if memory serves me right you have to use one of Van's non standerd
dynafocal mounts for this engine (I think).
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS O-360 A4A
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Good luck and thanks |
Just wanted to say 'bye to everyone on the list for a while. Our new project
forces us to get off the net. We are building an airstrip south of Taylor, Tx
and virtually have no time for the net even though we enjoy it very much and
will miss this info.
We will continue to fly N691RV "Red Bird" and hope to be subscribing back on
next year. When we do, we will probably announce a new airport where RVers
are MORE than welcome!
Thanks and keep smashing them rivets!
Diane & Bob Seibert
RV-6 N691RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lynwood Stagg <stagg(at)ols.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine manual for 0-360 A1A |
I got overhaul and parts manuals (yes, they come seperately) from Reno
Aviation. About 60 bucks for the two (or close to that?)
Woody
On Sat, 9 Dec 1995 aol.com!WCannon313(at)matronics.com wrote:
> Hi Folks
>
> I am beginning to work on the engine installation of my -6. I am using an
> O-360 A1A and would like to obtain a maintainance and instl. ? manual if
> there is such a thing. I have some of the better generic references on this
> subject, but find myself wondering if there are any Lycoming manuals and if
> so where I might obtain them. Any advice? Thanks in advance.
>
> Walt Cannon
> Seattle
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Ross <70773.2306(at)compuserve.com> |
I would like more informaton on your RV builders list. I am building an RV-6.
Thanks for your assistance.
Rick Ross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RFlunker(at)aol.com |
I'm at the point of needing to put the "electrical RTV" in the rudder, and am
having a hard time determining what electrical RTV is... I'm wondering if
someone can give me a brand name or something. Thanks in advance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | B F Gibbons <bfgibbons(at)intellinet.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Skin Overhang |
For those of you with experience fitting pre-punched wing skins:
I was using the pre-punched wing skin this morning to ensure I had the =
location of my wing ribs marked correctly (per Frank's instructions). I =
noticed that the last rivet holes on the outboard leading edge skin are =
7/8 " from the edge of the skin. If these holes are centered on the rib =
then the max. skin overhang possible is 9/16" ( 7/8" - 5/16" [half of =
the rib flange width] =3D 9/16"). But the plans (sk-46) calls for =
13/16" overhang. I don't see how this is possible with the pre-punched =
skins. What am I missing????
Also, I'm concerned that even if I get the ribs exactly right, the skin =
can easily be off vertically by 1/32" or so (I could have missed marking =
the center of the ribs by that much). How critical is this alignment =
when I get ready to set the fuel tank skins. Is there enough play at =
the fuselage that the entire wing skin could be 1/32 - 1/16 off? =20
Scary stuff. BFG RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bobh(at)synopsys.com (Bob Haan) |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical RTV |
>I'm at the point of needing to put the "electrical RTV" in the rudder, and am
>having a hard time determining what electrical RTV is... I'm wondering if
>someone can give me a brand name or something. Thanks in advance.
I used GE Silicone II Aluminum & Metal Sealant. A sandard size cauking gun
tube was about $4.50 at Home Depot.
RV6 working on Trim Tab,
Portland, OR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical RTV |
>I'm at the point of needing to put the "electrical RTV" in the rudder, and am
>having a hard time determining what electrical RTV is... I'm wondering if
>someone can give me a brand name or something. Thanks in advance.
>
Permatex "Ultra Blue" Part No. 77B Available at auto parts store.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | alanw(at)netspace.net.au (Alan Williams) |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical RTV |
>I'm at the point of needing to put the "electrical RTV" in the rudder, and am
>having a hard time determining what electrical RTV is... I'm wondering if
>someone can give me a brand name or something. Thanks in advance.
>
>
The one I use is made by Dow Corning - 'Silastic 738 RTV'.
Alan Williams
Melbourne Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kingm(at)whidbey.net (Monte King) |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical RTV |
Several years ago, Art Chard at Van's was recommending Pro Seal. If you do
use RTV, make sure it is not the type containing acetic acid. Permatex
Ultra Copper Hi-Temp RTV states on its label that it is 'non-corrosive, safe
on aluminum', so that sounds like a good option.
Monte King
Oak Harbor, WA
RV-6A
>>I'm at the point of needing to put the "electrical RTV" in the rudder, and am
>>having a hard time determining what electrical RTV is... I'm wondering if
>>someone can give me a brand name or something. Thanks in advance.
>>
>Permatex "Ultra Blue" Part No. 77B Available at auto parts store.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Engine Source |
If you can't spring for one of Van's OEM new Lycoming engines, try Don George
Custom Lycoming Engines, Orlando, Florida, (800) 222-6690. I bought an
O-320 from him that was custom built with an Ellison Throttle Body, Skytec
Starter, Pelican Alternator, and other light weight accessories. He does
good work and stands behind his products. He will build you an engine any
way you want it. All of his engines are built to factory new specifications.
Builder support is excellent. Prices are very reasonable. Tell him Jim
Cone recommended him.
Jim Cone
RV-6A working on finsihing kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "NMARSHAL" <NMARSHAL(at)AOPARI.remnet.rockwell.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Engine Source |
To Jim Cone:
Does Don George Custom Lycoming Engines have a regular (non 800) phone
number for those of us outside the US? Can you give us an idea of his
prices? Thanks
Nigel Marshall
Chevreuse, France
RV-4 (# 4062) Empennage
nmarshal(at)aopari.remnet.rockwell.com
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: Re: Lycoming Engine Source
Date: 10/12/95 23:20
If you can't spring for one of Van's OEM new Lycoming engines, try Don George
Custom Lycoming Engines, Orlando, Florida, (800) 222-6690. I bought an
O-320 from him that was custom built with an Ellison Throttle Body, Skytec
Starter, Pelican Alternator, and other light weight accessories. He does
good work and stands behind his products. He will build you an engine any
way you want it. All of his engines are built to factory new specifications.
Builder support is excellent. Prices are very reasonable. Tell him Jim
Cone recommended him.
Jim Cone
RV-6A working on finsihing kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WStucklen(at)aol.com |
>I tried an idea to create labels for breakers etc and it worked great.
>I went to office max and bought a box of transparency film for laser
>printers (not cheap $20). I then created all the labels I needed and
>more and printed. They came out really nice (I printed several copies
>on paper first). Cut them out, used white glue (wood glue, it dries
>clear) and now I have good looking labels, replaceable, simple.
>Dan Boudro
Great Idea. Now how do you apply them to the panel without adhesive on the
back? Think I'll play with this idea... Thanks...
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | boudro <pla_ems(at)nmia.com> |
Fred,
I used a white glue which dries clear, other people have said that you
can get the transparent film with an adhesive back too, I'm going to try
this after I use the 50 sheets I have bought already, which should be
around 2050.
Dan
RV-4 N9167Z
>
> Great Idea. Now how do you apply them to the panel without adhesive on the
> back? Think I'll play with this idea... Thanks...
>
> Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
> wstucklen(at)aol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | csanchez(at)BayNetworks.com (Cheryl Sanchez) |
| Subject: | Number for Trade-A-Plane? |
Does anyone know the number I can call to get a subsription to
Trade-A-Plane?
Thanks.
Cheryl Sanchez
csanchez(at)baynetworks.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ecole(at)ix.netcom.com (EDWARD COLE ) |
You wrote:
>
>I've thought about making instrument labels this way, but the probelem
>is I plan on painting the panel black. Anyone have any good ideas on
>how to make labels easily and cheaply, but with white text?
>
>Randall Henderson
>
>> I tried an idea to create labels for breakers etc and it worked
great.
>> I went to office max and bought a box of transparency film for laser
>> printers (not cheap $20). I then created all the labels I needed and
>> more and printed. They came out really nice (I printed several
copies
>> on paper first). Cut them out, used white glue (wood glue, it dries
>> clear) and now I have good looking labels, replaceable, simple.
>> Dan Boudro
>> RV-4 N9167Z
>> albuquerque
>
Dan,
There is material available for laser printers that laminates a colored
foil like material over your printed text. First you print out you
regular page, next you place the foil material over the text page and
run it back through the printer by printing a "blank page". The heat
from the printer laminates the foil onto the text and not the bare
spots. The foil is held onto the page with removable adhesive dots.
I'm not sure of the colors available, so you might have to check
around. Try the companies that specialize in differents types of laser
paper and labels.
Ed Cole RV6A 24430 Empennage
ecole(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Adhesive for Glass Tips |
> I read somewhere that proseal could be used in this type of
> application. Is there any other common (off-the-shelf) stuff
> I could get local?
I don't know what else you can use, but you might be able to get
proseal at your local FBO. Flightcraft here in Portland sells the
self-mix type in caulking tubes. I know Courtauld's also makes "patch
kits" with a small amount of base and activator, but I don't know
where you would get it. You might try calling them directly,
Courtauld's Aerospace (206) 483-3999.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Electrical RTV |
>
> I'm at the point of needing to put the "electrical RTV" in the rudder, and am
> having a hard time determining what electrical RTV is... I'm wondering if
> someone can give me a brand name or something. Thanks in advance.
>
The following is an article I wrote for my Portland RVators
newsletter (December 1995 issue)
Randall Henderson
RV-6
-----
RTV Revisited
First some history: A couple of years ago some concern popped up among
builders about the fact that normal RTV contains acetic acid which can
allegedly be corrosive to aluminum. Since then there has been a lot
of discussion about what to use instead, and Van's manual now specifies
"Electronic grade" RTV which contains no acetic acid.
Last night at the monthly meeting of the Portland RVators, Bill Benedict
(Van's GM) related some interesting new information on this subject.
Apparently Van's had spoken to someone at one of the RTV manufacturers
who said that the Acetic acid based RTV was originally developed for
the purpose of making it stick better to aluminum! Apparently the
other type would peel off a lot easier, and the acetic acid
gave it self-etching properties.
Van's then made two samples, one with acetic acid and one without, and
gave them to local builder Steve Harris who put them in an
environmental chamber where (salt spray and the whole bit) for
something like 2 months. After that time neither sample showed any
corrosion, but the Non-acetic acid based RTV would peel off relatively
easily while the acetic acid based would not.
So maybe now we're back to using normal RTV after all!
One note: a lot of us prime before riveting, and I'll bet that either
type would stick better to the paint than to bare aluminum, so it
it may not matter which type you use if you have primed the parts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | boudro <pla_ems(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Number for Trade-A-Plane? |
1.800.337.5263
On Mon, 11 Dec 1995, Cheryl Sanchez wrote:
> Does anyone know the number I can call to get a subsription to
> Trade-A-Plane?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Cheryl Sanchez
> csanchez(at)baynetworks.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com (Doug Weiler) |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Testing |
Fellow Listers:
Another question that has probably been beaten to death... I am in the
process of pressure testing my tanks using the balloon method. After having
one tank pressurized for 1 week, all seems well (checked all seams with
soapy water and balloon only varies with barometric pressure). However, one
of our local builders questions whether the balloon method provides
sufficient pressure. He advocates rigging an automotive fuel pump tester
gauge (that can read 1-2 psi) and blowing into the tank (through a
hose/valve arrangement) until you have 1 3/4 psi and then check for leaks.
Does anyone have an idea just how much pressure the balloon method imparts
into the tank? Can one assume that a tank that maintains pressure using the
balloon method over a long period of time (several weeks) will be leakfree
vs. using the 1 3/4 psi gauge method? I personally would think that holding
air using the balloon technique would certainly hold fuel in an
unpressurized state.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
= Doug Weiler, pres. MN Wing Van's AirForce, RV-4 wings in progress
= 347 Krattley Lane
= Hudson, WI 54016
= 715-386-1239
= email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gil(at)rassp.hac.com (Gil Alexander) |
| Subject: | Re: Engine manual for 0-360 A1A |
>I got overhaul and parts manuals (yes, they come seperately) from Reno
>Aviation. About 60 bucks for the two (or close to that?)
>
>Woody
RV-listers,
I got a Parts Manual, Overhaul Manual and a Operators
Manual for my O-320-E2G directly from Lycoming for about $70.
These Parts and Overhaul manuals come with an update subscription,
so if you get manuals from any non-factory source, make sure you get this
update service. The cheapie Overhaul Manuals ($20?) from Wag-Aero are over
10 year old reprints with no update service.
I think this is one case where it is best to deal with Lycoming
directly. Anything that is cheaper from a non-factory source will either
be incomplete or outdated. Call Lycoming directly and ask for their free
"List of Publications" ... also ask for a free subscription to the
"Lycoming Flyer", their irregular published newletter.
Gil Alexander
RV6A, #20701 .... still working canopy frame
gil(at)rassp.hac.com
>
>On Sat, 9 Dec 1995 aol.com!WCannon313(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>> Hi Folks
>>
>> I am beginning to work on the engine installation of my -6. I am using an
>> O-360 A1A and would like to obtain a maintainance and instl. ? manual if
>> there is such a thing. I have some of the better generic references on this
>> subject, but find myself wondering if there are any Lycoming manuals and if
>> so where I might obtain them. Any advice? Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Walt Cannon
>> Seattle
>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
Is it just me, or is the October issue of the RVator VERY late? I know
they've been getting behind, but sheesh! Has anyone received their's yet?
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeremy <jbenedic(at)uofport.edu> |
> Is it just me, or is the October issue of the RVator VERY late? I know
> they've been getting behind, but sheesh! Has anyone received their's yet?
Received the October issue in Portland, Oregon.
Arrived Monday, December 11, 1995
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
| name://Jeremy Benedict | PP-ASEL (1994) [R/E: TD] |
| email://jbenedic(at)uofport.edu | Logged:C-150,RV-4,-6,-6A,-6B,-6T|
| http://www.uofport.edu/~jbenedic | TT: 163.2 hrs TT-RV: 70.2 hrs |
| voice://503.240.1528 | |
|postal://Villa 114/5000 N. Willamette Blvd./Portland OR 97203-5754 |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Van's "WebManager" -- http://www.earthlink.net/~rkhu/vans/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Number for Trade-A-Plane? |
>Subj: RV-List: Number for Trade-A-Plane?
>Date: 95-12-11 20:10:17 EST
>From: BayNetworks.com!csanchez(at)matronics.com (Cheryl Sanchez)
>Sender: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Does anyone know the number I can call to get a subsription to
>Trade-A-Plane?
>Thanks.
>Cheryl Sanchez
>csanchez(at)baynetworks.com
Trade-a-plane's # is 1-800-337-5263; Fax # is 1-800-423-9030, per my renewall
form.
Dana Breda
N138DB
Flying RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | crazer(at)midwest.net (Chester Razer) |
| Subject: | Proseal Question |
After installing tank rivets a small amount of proseal squeezes out around
the factory head of the rivet. After the stuff begins to set up the
factory head can be cleaned with lacquer thinner.
Question: Do you need to clean enough to remove the very small ring of
proseal from around the rivet head (not the smear, but the very small ring
that remains around the head) or do you leave it for eventual painting
over.
Concern: Don't know if primer and paint will adhear to the ring of proseal
which may result in an unpainted ring around the rivet head.
P.S. I used the standard Cleavland Aircraft Tools dimple die (didn't use
the tank dies) for my left tank and so far have had perfectly flush sets
on the bottom stiffners as well as the tip rib. All I did different was to
push the rivet in to the hole with an ice pick gently and that action
seemed to displace any extra proseal that may have caused the rivet to
raise.
Chet Razer
crazer(at)midwest.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Get file help |
Could someone please tell me how to get off the RV mailing list! I've tried
just about everything and I'm at my wits end!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Kelley <James.Kelley.0186110(at)nt.com> |
Subject: Time:9:44 =
AM
OFFICE MEMO Builders Logs ? =
Date:12/12/95
Is there any reason for keeping a record of the building process other =
than the amount of time invested in your project? I have seen messages =
on compuserve that would indicate that this time could be used to help =
meet the requirements for and A/P licenses. Is this true? I have found =
no reference to keeping a log for the FAA requirements. I could see where =
the log and photos would help when it came time for the sign off. I am =
currently tracking start time, end time, accumulated time, serial #, N#, =
procedure and notes. Is there anything else that needs to be tracked?
(Humm, maybe $$$. no I don't want to know!)
Thanks in advance!
James Kelley
(wing jigs almost completed.)
72466.1355(at)compuserve.com
0186110(at)nt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Q: Navaid servo location |
I have the Navaid Devices autopilot. I've installed the servo in the
right wing. The price is $1300. Navaid Devices phone number is 615-267-3311.
The control head essentially replaces your turn coordinator, and in 'Turn
Coordinator MOde' operates just like a turn coordinator. It uses a pair
of bar graphs to indicate the turn rate instead of a little airplane.
In 'Wing Leveler Mode' it operates as a one-axis autopilot (win.
leveler).
No 'Heading Hold Mode' is available
In 'Nav Track Mode' it will track a vor, localizer, Loran, or GPS. It
accepts inputs from any device that can drive a CDI.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com (Doug Weiler) |
| Subject: | Re: Number for Trade-A-Plane? |
>Does anyone know the number I can call to get a subsription to
>Trade-A-Plane?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Cheryl Sanchez
>csanchez(at)baynetworks.com
>
Trade-A-Plane's number is 1-800-337-5263.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
= Doug Weiler, pres. MN Wing Van's AirForce, RV-4 wings in progress
= 347 Krattley Lane
= Hudson, WI 54016
= 715-386-1239
= email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Skin Overhang |
On Sun, 10 Dec 1995, B F Gibbons wrote:
> If these holes are centered on the rib then
> the max. skin overhang possible is 9/16" ( 7/8" - 5/16" [half of the rib
> flange width] = 9/16"). But the plans (sk-46) calls for 13/16" overhang.
> I don't see how this is possible with the pre-punched skins. What am I
> missing????
The overhang is really 1/2 to 9/16. I don't recall the 13/16" inch
dimension, but it's certainly wrong. GO measure the lip that is molded
into the wingtip: It's 1/2".
> Also, I'm concerned that even if I get the ribs exactly right, the skin
> can easily be off vertically by 1/32" or so (I could have missed marking
> the center of the ribs by that much). How critical is this alignment
> when I get ready to set the fuel tank skins. Is there enough play at
> the fuselage that the entire wing skin could be 1/32 - 1/16 off? >
Oh, yes. there is a gap at least an inch wide between the wing skin and
the fuselage that gets covered by a fairing. DOn't worry about the
alignment of the skin being off by a 32nd (or even a 16th.) MOst people
recommend leaving a gap of AT LEAST a 32nd between the leading edge skin
and the fuel tank skin. And remember, if you have some interference
that's what the vixen file is for :-)
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Get file help |
>
> Could someone please tell me how to get off the RV mailing list! I've tried
> just about everything and I'm at my wits end!
>
Did you try sending a message to rv-list-request(at)matronics.com,
(note the >>>request<<< in the address) with the word "unsubscribe"
in the BODY of the message? If that doesn't work, send mail to
dralle(at)matronics.com. Also, are you sending your unsubscribe request
from the same address that you're receiving from the rv-list on?
Good luck.
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Non RV, but very funny |
I just had to forward this one...
Chris
----- Begin Included Message -----
Few people in the UK will fail to remember the now legendary October Gales of
1987. Thousands of trees in southern England were felled, many were hundreds
of years old. Although the gales only lasted one night the ensuing disruption
lasted for days.
During that fateful night they were having major problems at Heathrow Airport.
I have seen a video of a BA 757 on approach banking spectacularly with each
massive gust. Problems were compounded as plane after plane executed a missed
approach and went for a second or even third attempt.
At the height of all this some empty luggage palates blew away and skidded
across the apron. One eventually took up residence at the threshold of 27L,
the current landing runway.
At this point a Lufthansa 747 was on final and the reported conversation went
something like this.
Tower: All traffic be advised there is a palate moving on the threshold
of 27L exercise extreme caution. Luft 123 clear to land 27L surface wind
variable gusting to 80 knots.
Luft 123: (In German accent) Clear to land 27L. How big is this parrot?
Tower: About 6 feet high!
One can only imagine the look on the faces of the pilots as they thundered
towards the threshold. However the reply was typically cool and came as the
engines spooled up, the nose rose high and the aircraft climbed away from the
possibility of a major birdstrike.
Luft 123:I think we had better have another word for parrot.
----- End Included Message -----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich Klee <Rich_Klee(at)ccm.fm.intel.com> |
For the person who was trying to get a phone # of a A/C dismantler in
Northern Ca.
FAETH A/C PARTS
Kenny Faeth
(916) 368 -1832
5954 Bradshaw Rd.
Sacramento, CA 95829
rich klee - 6a fuse, ready for skinning
rich_klee(at)ccm.fm.intel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | wing skin overlap |
| From: | "Sam Ray" <str(at)almaden.ibm.com> |
On Tue, 12 Dec 1995 Dave Barnhart wrote:
>MOst people
>recommend leaving a gap of AT LEAST a 32nd between the leading edge skin
>and the fuel tank skin.
Why the 1/32" gap between the outboard leading edge skin and the tank skin?
Sam Ray
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Q: Navaid servo location |
>
>I have the Navaid Devices autopilot. I've installed the servo in the
>right wing. The price is $1300. Navaid Devices phone number is 615-267-3311.
>
>The control head essentially replaces your turn coordinator, and in 'Turn
>Coordinator MOde' operates just like a turn coordinator. It uses a pair
>of bar graphs to indicate the turn rate instead of a little airplane.
>
>In 'Wing Leveler Mode' it operates as a one-axis autopilot (win.
>leveler).
>
>No 'Heading Hold Mode' is available
>
>In 'Nav Track Mode' it will track a vor, localizer, Loran, or GPS. It
>accepts inputs from any device that can drive a CDI.
>
>Best Regards,
>Dave Barnhart
>rv-6 sn 23744
>
Dave, Would you give some specifics as to the mounting of the servo unit in
the wing? For instance: did you mount servo a inspection plate? Is the
servo mounted to a structure in the wing (or on the top wing skin? Is your
servo arm attached to the aileron push rod tube or the aileron bellcrank?
Would there be a way to mount the unit outboard of the aileron bellcrank
with access to the servo through the existing inspection plate? I have mine
mounted under the co-pilot seat and it works fine (in RV-6). It just seems
that a wing installation might be a little easier. Do you agree that
installing in the wing after the wings are constructed would be difficult?
I haven't built the wings for my 6-A yet but others who have completed RV's
might like to retrofit their RV's. Bob Skinner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dierks(at)austin.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Builders Logs ? (fwd) |
I think the main purpose is to show you meet the 51% rule if it came down to
that. It is also just good for reference on how you did something and
how long it took.
Regarding using it for an A&P license (actually airframe license), my
understanding that technically you have to be working under the supervision
of the IA (or mayby a A&P). Because most of us are not working under
the supervision of an IA then technically it would not count.
However, you may be able to find someone that you know that would accept
your time and sign off your application given they know you and know you did
the work.
Just more FAA red tape. We probably get more education than someone that
goes to A&P school for 6 weeks.
What I am talking about here is a real Airframe license.
We all know you can get your own 'repairman's certificate' on the airplane
you built (assuming you did 51% of the work) to work on that specific aircraft
only.
Herman
> AM
> OFFICE MEMO Builders Logs ? =
> Date:12/12/95
>
> Is there any reason for keeping a record of the building process other =
> than the amount of time invested in your project? I have seen messages =
> on compuserve that would indicate that this time could be used to help =
> meet the requirements for and A/P licenses. Is this true? I have found =
> no reference to keeping a log for the FAA requirements. I could see where =
> the log and photos would help when it came time for the sign off. I am =
> currently tracking start time, end time, accumulated time, serial #, N#, =
> procedure and notes. Is there anything else that needs to be tracked?
> (Humm, maybe $$$. no I don't want to know!)
>
> Thanks in advance!
> James Kelley
> (wing jigs almost completed.)
> 72466.1355(at)compuserve.com
> 0186110(at)nt.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
Can someone give me some help with the back messages? I dl'ed the
RV-Archive that was supposed to be the zip version, and it has a .dig
extension. I tried changing it to .zip, but it wouldn't work.
Does anyone know how to do this?
Thanks,
Ed Bundy (fuselage being skinned in jig)
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Re: Message archive |
>--------------
> Can someone give me some help with the back messages? I dl'ed the
>RV-Archive that was supposed to be the zip version, and it has a .dig
>extension. I tried changing it to .zip, but it wouldn't work.
>
>Does anyone know how to do this?
>
>Thanks,
>Ed Bundy (fuselage being skinned in jig)
>ebundy2620(at)aol.com
>--------------
It is very strange that the extension changed. Did you use a binary transfer?
Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ian D. Heritch" <iheritch(at)lonestar.jpl.utsa.edu> |
| Subject: | RV-6a HS Front Spar |
Van's seems to have closed early today so I turn to you folks:
I have completed the HS-610 & HS-614 splice angles except for the taper.
1. Where does the taper begin, the plans are not clear. Where the
flange has been trimed, at the bend line, or somewhere else.
2. Where is the bend line, the drawing has an approx dim.
Thanks for your help.
Ian Heritch
RV-6a Empennage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Builders Logs ? |
On Tue, 12 Dec 1995, James Kelley wrote:
> Is there any reason for keeping a record of the building process
> other than the amount of time invested in your project?
It's generally accepted that a builder's log will provide evidence, if
needed, that in fact YOU built 51% of the airplane. Each entry in my
builder's log indivates the date, amount of time spent, and what I did.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DerFlieger(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Builders Logs ? |
>Is there any reason for keeping a record of the building process other than
>the amount of time invested in your project? I have seen messages on
>compuserve that would indicate that this time could be used to help meet the
>requirements for and A/P licenses. Is this true? I have found no reference
>to keeping a log for the F
Friend of mine got signed off to take the first A/P test based on completing
a BD4 and other associated aircraft work. Think that is coming to an end
though with the upcoming changes in regs.
Jim Stugart
DerFlieger(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)crl.com> |
| Subject: | Navaid Devices Servo in the Wing |
> Dave, Would you give some specifics as to the mounting of the
> servo unit in the wing?
Gee, just one little mention that I'v mounted the Navaid Devices servo
in the wing and I become a popular guy! :-)
First of all, I have to give credit where credit is due. I stole the
entire idea from Tom Berge. Tom wrote a very nice article (with
photos and everything) about mounting the servo in his wing (After the
entire airplane was completed, no less!) and published it in the June
1994 issue of the Van's AirForce Minnesota Wing Newsletter.
The servo is mounted in the bay formed by the ribs at sta 73.5 and 83.5.
73.5 is the rib that bisects the access hole, and 83.5 is the next
outboard one. The whole thing was designed from the start to be able to be
installed and removed through the standard access hole. (the reason is that
I wanted all that stuff out of the way when I rivet the skins on.)
The servo is mounted on an aluminum plate that is 4 inches wide and just
under 10 inches long. (It is 10 inches between ribs, but the reinforcing
rings around the rib's lightning holes reduce the clearance a bit.) The
servo is secured to the plate with four #6 screws and four K1000-6 nutplates.
When installed, the plate is parallel with the main spar and about an inch
aft of it. Oh, the plate is 3/16-inch thick, but that's just because
that was what was available at the time. It just has to be thick
enough not to flex under load.
The plate was secured to the ribs by two short lengths of 3/4 x 3/4 x .063
angle, one on each end. One length of angle is attached to the 73.5 rib
and the second is atached to the 83.5 rib. The angles are attached to
the ribs with AN3 bolts and AN365 nuts.
The plate attaches to the angles with four AN3 bolts and four F5000-3
platenuts (I used the F5000 platenuts instead of K1000 simply because
they were what I had on hand.)
I plan to rivet a pair of tabs onto the side of the bellcrank, and run
the pushrod from the servo to these tabs. The rod-end bearing in the
pushrod is thicker than the bellcrank, so I'll have to put a thin spacer
under one or both tabs. (The rod-end bearing will be sandwiched between
these two tabs).
My only concerns with mounting the servo in this location are the
possibilities of either the cover coming off the servo or something
catastrophic happening and the servo breaking loose from the tray. In
either case it will likely foul the bellcrank or the pushrod that
goes back to the aileron. Therefore I'll probably install some kind
of secondary restraint using tie-wraps or safety wire.
Doing this with the skins off the wing makes the job very easy. I agree
that doing it after the wings are constructed would be much harder, but
as Tom Berge proved, not impossible. I think, though, that If my wings
were already constructed, I would probably opt for installing the servo
in the fuselage.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leo Davies <leo(at)icn.su.OZ.AU> |
| Subject: | electric trim cabling |
Dear All,
I have built my empennage with the electric elevator trim from Van's. I
wondered what other people have used to connect the servo to the rest of the
airplane, it seems like it is useful to have a connector at the tail plane
somewhere so that the servo can be removed for service etc but the connector
would need to be vibration (and maybe water) proof.
Any thoughts on suitable connectors, mounting etc? Anyone with enough
flying time to know that their setup is robust?
Leo Davies
6A Skinning fuselage
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MGGX07C(at)prodigy.com ( SCOTT GESELE) |
| Subject: | rv-list: RV-6A Step |
I plan on installing the optional step on the passenger side of my -
6A. I was wondering if anyone knew of the weight and drag penalty of
this option. Is this step really needed on both sides? I have no
problem getting onto the wing ( currently on finishing kit, wings on
fuse), but "my passenger" is only 5'-0" and needs help. Any input
would be appreciated.
By the way, "my passenger" will be "my fiance" AFTER the instrument
panel is paid for! Ring, GPS; Ring. Gyros; Ring, Nav Com- Decisions,
Decisions, Decisions.
-Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael A. Hartmann" <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
I am an RV-6A builder just starting on the fuselage and new to the net. Can
anyone clear up a nagging doubt I have about my already completed fuel tanks?
I used homemade gaskets of rubberized cork and "Titeseal" to seal the access
cover to the inboard rib and to seal the tank sender to the access cover.
My concern is that there is no real seal or gasket sealing the screws.
There seems to be an easy path for fuel seepage past the nutplates and up
the screw threads. I used "Titeseal" on each of the screws and the tank
tests OK using balloons, but I wonder if the "Titeseal" can be expected to
remain "Tite" indefinately (as in forever). So far I have resisted the urge
to seal the thing up with Proseal.
Any comments/suggestions/experiences are appreciated!
Thanks! - Mike Hartmann
RV-6A in progress
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Portouw <72170.1636(at)compuserve.com> |
Scott,
If she likes airplanes, buy the ring-- it'll last longer than the RV.
Larry Portouw
Tampa
=====================
>... "my passenger" will be "my fiance" AFTER the instrument
>panel is paid for! Ring, GPS; Ring. Gyros; Ring, Nav Com- Decisions,
> Decisions, Decisions.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david_fried(at)smtpgwy.dehavilland.ca |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Step Drag |
Scott:
I can help with the drag of the step, if you can describe it
geometrically. Please reply off-list and I will post the result for
everyone.
My mail server uses cc-mail and does not show the senders address upstream
of Matronics. If there is a fix for this I would appreciate hearing about
it. If not perhaps the members of this list could include their e-mail
address after their signature.
David Fried
DF-6 C-____
dfried(at)dehavilland.ca
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: rv-list: RV-6A Step
Date: 13/12/95 01:19
I plan on installing the optional step on the passenger side of my -
6A. I was wondering if anyone knew of the weight and drag penalty of
this option. Is this step really needed on both sides? I have no
problem getting onto the wing ( currently on finishing kit, wings on
fuse), but "my passenger" is only 5'-0" and needs help. Any input
would be appreciated.
By the way, "my passenger" will be "my fiance" AFTER the instrument
panel is paid for! Ring, GPS; Ring. Gyros; Ring, Nav Com- Decisions,
Decisions, Decisions.
-Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Devices Servo in the Wing |
>
>> Dave, Would you give some specifics as to the mounting of the
>> servo unit in the wing?
>
>Gee, just one little mention that I'v mounted the Navaid Devices servo
>in the wing and I become a popular guy! :-)
>
>First of all, I have to give credit where credit is due. I stole the
>entire idea from Tom Berge. Tom wrote a very nice article (with
>photos and everything) about mounting the servo in his wing (After the
>entire airplane was completed, no less!) and published it in the June
>1994 issue of the Van's AirForce Minnesota Wing Newsletter.
>
>The servo is mounted in the bay formed by the ribs at sta 73.5 and 83.5.
>73.5 is the rib that bisects the access hole, and 83.5 is the next
>outboard one. The whole thing was designed from the start to be able to be
>installed and removed through the standard access hole. (the reason is that
>I wanted all that stuff out of the way when I rivet the skins on.)
>
>The servo is mounted on an aluminum plate that is 4 inches wide and just
>under 10 inches long. (It is 10 inches between ribs, but the reinforcing
>rings around the rib's lightning holes reduce the clearance a bit.) The
>servo is secured to the plate with four #6 screws and four K1000-6 nutplates.
>When installed, the plate is parallel with the main spar and about an inch
>aft of it. Oh, the plate is 3/16-inch thick, but that's just because
>that was what was available at the time. It just has to be thick
>enough not to flex under load.
>
>The plate was secured to the ribs by two short lengths of 3/4 x 3/4 x .063
>angle, one on each end. One length of angle is attached to the 73.5 rib
>and the second is atached to the 83.5 rib. The angles are attached to
>the ribs with AN3 bolts and AN365 nuts.
>
>The plate attaches to the angles with four AN3 bolts and four F5000-3
>platenuts (I used the F5000 platenuts instead of K1000 simply because
>they were what I had on hand.)
>
>I plan to rivet a pair of tabs onto the side of the bellcrank, and run
>the pushrod from the servo to these tabs. The rod-end bearing in the
>pushrod is thicker than the bellcrank, so I'll have to put a thin spacer
>under one or both tabs. (The rod-end bearing will be sandwiched between
>these two tabs).
>
>My only concerns with mounting the servo in this location are the
>possibilities of either the cover coming off the servo or something
>catastrophic happening and the servo breaking loose from the tray. In
>either case it will likely foul the bellcrank or the pushrod that
>goes back to the aileron. Therefore I'll probably install some kind
>of secondary restraint using tie-wraps or safety wire.
>
>Doing this with the skins off the wing makes the job very easy. I agree
>that doing it after the wings are constructed would be much harder, but
>as Tom Berge proved, not impossible. I think, though, that If my wings
>were already constructed, I would probably opt for installing the servo
>in the fuselage.
>
>Best Regards,
>Dave Barnhart
>rv-6 sn 23744
>
Just a note regarding installation in a 4... Ive had mine in for a
year(installed after completion). I put it under the floor behind the right
aileron control tube. Control rod runs to saddle bracket on main control
tube.
The floor is doubled in as large an area as possible then the servo is
mounted on top of a large u shaped bracket of .032. This adds structure and
spreads the load. It also allows the unit to be screwed to nut plates on
the elevated part of the bracket so nothing goes thru the skin and the unit
is easy to remove.
I like it because it easy to get to. The unit works great. I have it
coupled to the nav and my Garmin 95 thru a Smart Coupler. Couldn't be more
pleased.
Too bad about Doug....
Rusty Gossard
Rv-4 sn3290
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rso(at)css.ncifcrf.gov (Becki Orndorff) |
| Subject: | Re: rv-list: RV-6A Step |
Scott,
George and I installed steps on both sides of both our -6As. We noticed
no change in drag, speed or handling. We put steps everywhere as a safety
measure, rather than have someone slip and take out a flap. I'm 5'5" and
fairly agile and could have used a step on some -6s. If you will be the
only person flying the plane, you might forego the step on the pilot side.
I'd definately recommend the step on the passenger side. By the way, we had
a step on only the passenger side for a time without noticable effect on the
performance.
Becki Orndorff
>I plan on installing the optional step on the passenger side of my -
>6A. I was wondering if anyone knew of the weight and drag penalty of
>this option. Is this step really needed on both sides? I have no
>problem getting onto the wing ( currently on finishing kit, wings on
>fuse), but "my passenger" is only 5'-0" and needs help. Any input
>would be appreciated.
>
>By the way, "my passenger" will be "my fiance" AFTER the instrument
>panel is paid for! Ring, GPS; Ring. Gyros; Ring, Nav Com- Decisions,
> Decisions, Decisions.
>
>-Scott
>
>
Becki Orndorff
NCI-FCRDC, Computer & Statistical Services
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rv-list: RV-6A Step |
Scott Becki and I installed the steps on both sides of both airplanes
and found no weight or drag problems. On the first plane it was a
retro fit and did not notice any thing. I would say put both sides on
they will save your knee or a flap some day....George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Gottschalk (286-0708)" <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: rv-list: RV-6A Step |
George and RV-list,
Good to see you on the net. I just found the list and it looks like a
useful tool for the RV builder! I was just getting around to asking George
about the steps as I was considering them for my project. The only negative
aspect as I can see is the cost. Oh well, nobody said the project was going
to be cheap.
-Gene Gottschalk
>Scott Becki and I installed the steps on both sides of both airplanes
>and found no weight or drag problems. On the first plane it was a
>retro fit and did not notice any thing. I would say put both sides on
>they will save your knee or a flap some day....George Orndorff
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Shea <todd(at)nuvo.com> |
Hi I am new to this group, trying to sell my Cub so I can get an RV-4 kit.
Has anyone out there had any experience with mounting ski's on an RV-4? Is
is possible? What size of ski's would you use (assume 2000's)? where would
you attach the fittings for the cables and bungees? etc.etc.etc.
Thanks.
Todd Shea
todd(at)nuvo.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DerFlieger(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: electric trim cabling |
>
>
>Any thoughts on suitable connectors, mounting etc? Anyone with enough
>flying time to know that their setup is robust?
>
>Leo Davies
>
>
I used the DIN connectors sold by MAC 619/598-0592. They are excellent for
the small wiggly wires in the cable (sold by Van or MAC). I used 3 sets, one
at the switch/indicator behind the panel, one aft of the main spar, and one
in the tail for easy removal of the servo box. I used Ty-Wraps to guard
against their untimely unplugging. Haven't flown it yet. I put connectors
on all wires going through the spar so I could keep them out of the way when
installing the wing. The hole in the spar web needs to be enlarged so the
connectors will pass through.
Jim Stugart
DerFlieger(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Navaid Devices Servo in the Wing |
I think that mounting the servo a little inboard and connecting it to the
pushtube is a viable alternative. I thought about it, but I decided that:
1. coming up with a way of attaching the servo pushrod to the aileron
pushtube in a manner that would be reliable and not compromise the
strength of the pushtube, and:
2. cutting the extra inspection hole in the wing
Would be more effort than the approach I took.
My only caution to people
when doing this is that you are taking on the role of 'aircraft designer'
when doing this sort of thing. I think that it is important to consult
with an A&P who is experienced in this class of mods so that someone
knowledgable can assess it.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Suitable connectors for electric trim |
If you are not looking for a waterproof connector, it's hard to beat the
old square, white Molex connector. I've used them in aircraft for
years. They are cheap and reliable (they are NOT reliable if they are
constantly being connected and disconnected though.) I would recommend
the style that uses the .092-diameter pins instead of the smaller
.063-diameter pins.
If you are looking for something waterproof, the only thing I've found
are those mil-spec Cannon plugs, but they are heavy. Cannon makes a
lighter plastic variety, but they are not waterproof.
I really think using a waterproof connector is overkill. None of the
production aircraft use them, and unless you locate it somewhere that
water collects, it should remain dry enough.
Of course, my perspective on water is kinda twisted: I live in Arizona :-)
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Fuel Tanks |
On Wed, 13 Dec 1995, Michael A. Hartmann wrote:
> I used "Titeseal" on each of the screws and the tank
> tests OK using balloons, but I wonder if the "Titeseal" can be expected to
> remain "Tite" indefinately (as in forever). So far I have resisted the urge
> to seal the thing up with Proseal.
I used a little dab of proseal on each screw. The screw can still be
easily removed.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ecole(at)ix.netcom.com (EDWARD COLE ) |
You wrote:
>
>Scott,
> If she likes airplanes, buy the ring-- it'll last longer than the
RV.
>Larry Portouw
>Tampa
>=====================
>>... "my passenger" will be "my fiance" AFTER the instrument
>>panel is paid for! Ring, GPS; Ring. Gyros; Ring, Nav Com-
Decisions,
>> Decisions, Decisions.
>
>But the stuff in alphabetical order.....GPS,GYROS,NAVCOM....RING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ski's & RV-4 |
I've heard of guys putting tubes in the fuselage for fishing poles and
ski's; no first hand knowledge though it seems like a possiblilty. Weight
and balance could be checked first thing when you weight the ac.
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
On Wed, 13 Dec 1995, Todd Shea wrote:
> Hi I am new to this group, trying to sell my Cub so I can get an RV-4 kit.
> Has anyone out there had any experience with mounting ski's on an RV-4? Is
> is possible? What size of ski's would you use (assume 2000's)? where would
> you attach the fittings for the cables and bungees? etc.etc.etc.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Todd Shea
> todd(at)nuvo.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard E Steffens" <resteffe(at)dpcmail.dukepower.com> |
Concerning sealing around the screws. With all the sealant and
gaskets, etc., has anyone had a problem with not having an electrical
connection between the base/flange of the fuel level sender and the
airframe?
Dick Steffens
RV-6 The fuse stuff better be on the truck to my shop!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Ski's & RV-4 |
>
> Has anyone out there had any experience with mounting ski's on an RV-4?
>
Van's 1993 calendar has a picture of an RV-4 on skis, in Norway I think.
They built the skis themselves. Looks really cool. I'd call Van's and
get their number.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Fuel Tanks |
>I am an RV-6A builder just starting on the fuselage and new to the net. Can
>anyone clear up a nagging doubt I have about my already completed fuel tanks?
>
>I used homemade gaskets of rubberized cork and "Titeseal" to seal the access
>cover to the inboard rib and to seal the tank sender to the access cover.
>My concern is that there is no real seal or gasket sealing the screws.
>There seems to be an easy path for fuel seepage past the nutplates and up
>the screw threads. I used "Titeseal" on each of the screws and the tank
>tests OK using balloons, but I wonder if the "Titeseal" can be expected to
>remain "Tite" indefinately (as in forever). So far I have resisted the urge
>to seal the thing up with Proseal.
>
>Any comments/suggestions/experiences are appreciated!
>
>Thanks! - Mike Hartmann
> RV-6A in progress
>
>Good question Mike. I've wondered the same thing. Kinda of forgot all
about this subject until you brought it up. I used the rubberized cork ass
well. For sealing, I used "Hylomar" a gasket sealer that is supposed to
remain flexable. I smeared the threads of each screw as well as both sides
of the gaskets with this goo. BTW, I didn't use the silver #8 screws
supplied with the kit. I didn't think the Philipps slots were very good on
these screws. These screws looked cheap and "lite duty" to me so I replaced
them with a higher quality screw. I figured that if they ever needed to
come out these screws should have a better fit to screwdriver and maybe be
able to stand higher torque. I, too, was reluctant to use Proseal. I don't
know if you would ever be able to get things apart if you used proseal.
I've got 190 hours on my RV-6 since Feb. 95 and have not had any
leaks. Hopefully, others who have been flying longer will give some input
on this subject. BTW, I think that Fuel Lube might be used for this as
well. I'm not familiar with "Titeseal". Bob Skinner RV-6 N369X
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Fuel Tanks |
> Concerning sealing around the screws. With all the sealant and
> gaskets, etc., has anyone had a problem with not having an electrical
> connection between the base/flange of the fuel level sender and the
> airframe?
>
> Dick Steffens
> RV-6 The fuse stuff better be on the truck to my shop!!
>
>Grounding shouldn't be a problem, but just in case on mine, I ran a
grounding jumper over to the edge of the tank. Belt and suspenders, I
guess, but ground problems are sometimes hard to trace. Bob Skinner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Stephen Bell <steve(at)discus.lincoln.ac.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: electric trim cabling |
On Wed, 13 Dec 1995, Leo Davies wrote:
> I wondered what other people have used to connect the servo to the rest
> of the airplane, it seems like it is useful to have a connector at the
> tailplane somewhere so that the servo can be removed for service etc but
> the connector would need to be vibration (and maybe water) proof.
>
> Any thoughts on suitable connectors, mounting etc? Anyone with enough
> flying time to know that their setup is robust?
>
I have a short form catalogue for a supplier to the local
electronics industry which shows a range of 'CEEP circular connectors'
these look like they're up to the job. they have an aluminium shell,
contacts are "machined brass with gold plating over nickel", there is a
model with a locking ring.
Acessories include closing caps, sealing rings & cable clamps.
The catalogue shows 2 -> 43 pin versions, sizes shown (not the full range)
are from 27mm - 65mm dia
The pics look like something straight out of the A&P General handbook.
I suspect you would be able to source them locally without much trouble.
Hope this helps,
Steve.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Stephen Bell |
Lincoln University, \--------------------(*)--------------------/
Canterbury,
New Zealand. NIMBUS II - Driver XX
RV 6 - Growing in the garage.
E-Mail: S.Bell(at)ono.lincoln.ac.nz work If only the thermals would stop
steve(at)discus.lincoln.ac.nz play I could get back to the workshop :)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gil(at)rassp.hac.com (Gil Alexander) |
| Subject: | Re: Suitable connectors for electric trim |
>If you are not looking for a waterproof connector, it's hard to beat the
>old square, white Molex connector. I've used them in aircraft for
>years. They are cheap and reliable (they are NOT reliable if they are
>constantly being connected and disconnected though.) I would recommend
>the style that uses the .092-diameter pins instead of the smaller
>.063-diameter pins.
>
>If you are looking for something waterproof, the only thing I've found
>are those mil-spec Cannon plugs, but they are heavy. Cannon makes a
>lighter plastic variety, but they are not waterproof.
RV-guys.....
Just checked my Newark catalog. Mil-spec connectors are $100+ .. WOW!!
But ....
They Newark sells "Conxall" brand weathertight 'Mini-Con-X Cable End
connectors' that are designed for outdoor use. Mated, the plug/socket
combo. is about 2.7 inches long by 0.7 inch diameter, but it's made of
high-impact molded material, so should not be heavy. The length dimension
includes the "weathertight rubber grommet/seal" and strain relief. They
have gold-plated solder cup connections, so no special crimping tools are
needed, just solder the wire to the connector.
For the Pacific Northwet, I believe these connectors would be better than
the Molex ones, and more weatherproof than the plastic DIN connectors
supplied by MAC.
For 6 contacts, the part numbers are:
stock# Conxall part# description price ($)
89F4115 6282-6SG-3XX 6 contact cable end socket conn. 6.69
93F7231 8282-6PG-3XX 6 contact cable-cable pin conn. 3.42
A panel mount version is also made:
8F4135 7282-6PG-300 6 contact panel mount socket conn. 5.80
They are a normal stock item (200+ at the local warehouse).
Newark is a supplier of electronic components, etc., and has
distributors all over the US, and has a good, 2+ inch thick catalog. Call
and get their catalog since they have a $25 minimum charge :^)
Catalog requests go to 1-800-298-3133 ext 48, and the catalog lists
all of the regional offices.
... hope this helps ..... Gil Alexander
gil(at)rassp.hac.com
RV6A, #20701
PS .. I haven't bought these connectors, but after finding them in the
catalog, I think I will use them for all of my electric trim cable
hook-ups. The micro version of the above connector at 0.540 inch diam. (2
or 3 contacts) should make a good connector for the PTT switch in the
removeable passengers control stick.
PPS .. I knew that catalog would become useful!
>
>I really think using a waterproof connector is overkill. None of the
>production aircraft use them, and unless you locate it somewhere that
>water collects, it should remain dry enough.
>
>Of course, my perspective on water is kinda twisted: I live in Arizona :-)
>
>Best Regards,
>Dave Barnhart
>rv-6 sn 23744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Message archive |
It is very strange that the extension changed. Did you use a binary
transfer?
Matt
I'm not sure. I dl'ed it through AOL's FTP menu. Is there some other way?
Thanks - Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Cocker <jcocker(at)frontier.canrem.com> |
>Dave, I finally got up enough courage to make the first cut in the canopy,
and as usual it was not as bad as I feared.
I have a fairly good fit now, but as you said, if I queeze the sides in, the
front lifts up - maybe only 1/4 inch. Is there a cure for this ? The fit is
otherwise very good, so a I am loath to cut any more.
The plans mention a filler piece for the front. Did you use it, or did you
make one up out of fibreglas ?
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV Fuel Tanks |
>From: dpcmail.dukepower.com!resteffe(at)matronics.com (Richard E Steffens)
>Sender: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Concerning sealing around the screws. With all the sealant and
> gaskets, etc., has anyone had a problem with not having an electrical
> connection between the base/flange of the fuel level sender and the
> airframe?
>Dick Steffens
Been flying 3 years now, & haven't had any problems at all.
Dana Breda
N138DB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jperri(at)interserv.com |
Well one more small problem. Have the heat Muff and heat box as sold by
Aircraft Spruce and Chief. Problem is that I don't get enough heat in the
winter. Anything below 40 at ground level gets a little cold at altitude. I
tried putting stainless steel wool in the heat muff to slow the air down and
give additional surface for heat transfer. Some gain but not enough to venture
out at 20 degrees or less. Thought that wrapping the muff with turbo tape to
insulate might help. Any thoughts or other suggestions? Surely someone in Minn.
fly's during the winter.
Thanks
J. Perri CFII RV-6 N345JE now at 400 hr..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Engine Source |
Don George Custom Lycoming Engines shop phone number is (407) 422-0188. His
address is 1339 West Washington Street, Orlando, Florida 32805. When I
bought my engine, the base price for an O-320 was $8950. That may have
increased in the past few years since I bought mine. I had all of the
special accessories drop shipped to Don and he gave me credit for the things
that come on the engine that I didn't need, like the carb and starter. Hope
this helps.
Jim Cone
RV-6A working on finishing kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | 400 Active RV-List Member Joins!!! |
"av8r(at)hic.net" became the 400th active member on the RV-List today!! Wow,
that's a lot of members! Congratulations, Av8r(at)hic.net! You win a hearty,
Internet handshake!
And there are now 312 inactive "members" that used to be on the list. A little
quick math and that's over 700 people that have been on the List at one
time or another. That's impressive.
And I remember when the List hit 50 and I thought, "Wow!"......
FYI
Matt Dralle
RV-List Admin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johnson, Steve" <spjohnson(at)msmail.mmmg.com> |
Bob Skinner writes:
>Good question Mike. I've wondered the same thing. Kinda of forgot all
>about this subject until you brought it up. I used the rubberized cork ass
>well. For sealing, I used "Hylomar" a gasket sealer that is supposed to
>remain flexable. I smeared the threads of each screw as well as both sides
>of the gaskets with this goo. BTW, I didn't use the silver #8 screws
I remember when 100LL was introduced, there were problems in some carburetors
and other fuel system components when gaskets and sealers were attacked by
additives in the fuel. Does anybody know what we can use that will remain
flexible and will be safe from these fuel additives? Someone with experience
in production planes must have the answer.
Steve Johnson
RV-8 when available
spjohnson(at)mmm.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Day" <sday(at)pharmcomp.com> |
I've just realized one huge problem with the RVator!!!
I got my issue in the mail yesterday, sat down on the couch and read cover
to cover. Now what do I do!!!???
Reminds me of X-mas as a little kid. You wait and anticipate X-mas morning.
You plan and scheme for months which present is the first to be ripped
apart. :) 10 seconds later you've got everything opened and you can't
believe it's already over. hehe
I've gotta say, the RVator is the only magazine I read from cover to cover,
every little scratch just to make sure I didn't miss something. Does this
mean I'm bitten?
I think 50% of owning an RV is surviving the continuous anticipation of the
day you can fly and overcoming the jealousy that others are already flying!
-Steve Day
sday(at)pharmcomp.com
(CK ID - RV6a RV for short)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ecole(at)ix.netcom.com (EDWARD COLE ) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-6a HS Front Spar |
You wrote:
>
>Van's seems to have closed early today so I turn to you folks:
>
>I have completed the HS-610 & HS-614 splice angles except for the
taper.
>
>1. Where does the taper begin, the plans are not clear. Where the
>flange has been trimed, at the bend line, or somewhere else.
>
>2. Where is the bend line, the drawing has an approx dim.
>
>Thanks for your help.
>
>Ian Heritch
>RV-6a Empennage
>
>
Ian,
I tried this yesterday but couldn't get it through the network.
1. Draw a 1/4" radius on the tip end of the angle brackets then draw
lines tangent to the radius back up to the 5 1/2 " portion that you
previously cut away. This gives you the taper you need, but may need
just a little more filing after you assemble it with the HS602 spar.
The bend line is 5 1/4" from the center line of the angle brackets per
detail "A" of drawing 3a. This works even though it says approx.
Don't forget to note that one side is 5 1/2" and the other is 5 3/16".
This can get confusing because of the front view shown.
Ed Cole RV6A #24430 Empennage
ecole(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dierks(at)austin.ibm.com |
Try one of the electric infrared heaters. I think AC Spruce sells them.
Have never used one but have heard they work OK.
>
> Well one more small problem. Have the heat Muff and heat box as sold by
> Aircraft Spruce and Chief. Problem is that I don't get enough heat in the
> winter. Anything below 40 at ground level gets a little cold at altitude. I
> tried putting stainless steel wool in the heat muff to slow the air down and
> give additional surface for heat transfer. Some gain but not enough to venture
> out at 20 degrees or less. Thought that wrapping the muff with turbo tape to
> insulate might help. Any thoughts or other suggestions? Surely someone in Minn.
> fly's during the winter.
>
> Thanks
>
> J. Perri CFII RV-6 N345JE now at 400 hr..
>
Herman Dierks, Dept. E54S, AWSD Austin, Texas
mail: dierks(at)austin.ibm.com VM: DIERKS at AUSVM6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Arter <arter(at)acd.acd.ucar.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: Message archive |
>It is very strange that the extension changed. Did you use a binary
>transfer?
>Matt
>
>I'm not sure. I dl'ed it through AOL's FTP menu. Is there some other way?
>Thanks - Ed
>
>
Maybe I can help having just downloaded the archives myself.
The archive files all have long filenames with 2 or more dots in them like
RV-Archive.digest.complete.zip (probably created on a MAC). If you're using
a PC, the DOS naming convention only allows 8 character names with a 3
character extension. So the filenames are automatically shortened in the
process of downloading to RV-Archi.dig - (dig being the first 3 letters
after the first dot).
I was able to rename the file to .zip and uncompress it using PK-Zip.
Unfortunately it is so big (>9 MB) my text editor won't function properly,
so I ended up downloading all the smaller files and viewing them one at a
time. They are still too big for Notepad, but you can use Super Notepad
(SPAD) from PC Magazine's Utilities collection.
It would be nice if they were just named in the form aa.txt so us PC users
could download them in a batch, instead of renaming each one individually.
By the way, this is a terrific resource.
Phil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Krieg" <christopher_krieg(at)aoce.austin.apple.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 400 Active RV-List Member Joins!!! |
What did we start with?? I think my list only had about 15 people on it. This
just shows the extreme following of the RV aircraft. During my absence from
the list when I was building Glasairs for other people, I never saw this kind
of following with the Glasair builders.
Chris Krieg
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gil(at)rassp.hac.com (Gil Alexander) |
>Well one more small problem. Have the heat Muff and heat box as sold by
>Aircraft Spruce and Chief. Problem is that I don't get enough heat in the
>winter. Anything below 40 at ground level gets a little cold at altitude. I
>tried putting stainless steel wool in the heat muff to slow the air down and
>give additional surface for heat transfer. Some gain but not enough to venture
>out at 20 degrees or less. Thought that wrapping the muff with turbo tape to
>insulate might help. Any thoughts or other suggestions? Surely someone in
>Minn.
>fly's during the winter.
>
>Thanks
>
>J. Perri CFII RV-6 N345JE now at 400 hr..
J. (Jim? John?)
Tony Bingelis in one of his books suggests wrapping the exhaust
pipe with a screen door spring inside the muff. This might be more
effective than steel wool since the spring would be held in tighter contact
with the exhaust pipe for better heat transfer. I think the idea here is
to get more hot surface area exposed to the airflow, rather than slowing
the airflow down. Sounds like an easy thing to try.
... keep warm ... :^) .. Gil Alexander (75 F + sunny to-day)
gil(at)rassp.hac.com
RV6A, #20701, N64GA (resvd.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Re: 400 Active RV-List Member Joins!!! |
>--------------
>What did we start with?? I think my list only had about 15 people on it. This
>just shows the extreme following of the RV aircraft. During my absence from
>the list when I was building Glasairs for other people, I never saw this kind
>of following with the Glasair builders.
>
>Chris Krieg
>
>--------------
Yup, that was about what it started with. Amazing! When the list was added to
the rec.homebuilt faq is when things really started to 'take off'... as
it were.
Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | The Prancing Welshman <reichera(at)clark.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-ator comment |
I'm still waiting for my copy...
>>
>> I got my issue in the mail yesterday, sat down on the couch and read cover
>> to cover. Now what do I do!!!???
>
> I too did the same thing last night.
[...]
A. Reichert - reichera(at)clark.net
http://www.clark.net/pub/reichera/index.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: control stops |
>
>
> Is just me or is the information on aileron control stops a bit
> vague. If someone could shed a little more light on the hows, and
>wheres, to attach them..... I would be very appreciative
>
>
> merry christmas
> Thomas Boatright
>
Tom: On the RV-6, DWG 16, left side middle, it shows the size,
orientation and position of the aileron stop which limits the up movement of
the ail. It attaches to the inbrd. ail. mount bracket. You will install
these when your wings are mounted and controls are hooked up. I drilled two
$ 40 holes in the blocks, put double sided tape on the back and stuck the to
the ail. mnt bracket to limit the up ail. as per book specs. You want the
block to contact the aileron A-607 aileron bracket flush. You may have to
pry the block off and re-position several times to get it right. Then drill
on with # 40 drill (less chance of slippage) and then drill out to # 30.
You will do this on both sides. Of course, when both stops are on limiting
up travel of the ailerons, you also limit down travel, so you'll want to
check degrees both up and down. Hope I was of some help. Bob Skinner
RV-6 N369X
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: aileron rigging |
From: av8r(at)hic.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: aileron rigging
To Rick -
No big secret really,,
Trick is, two saw horses, two wings joined in the middle with the splice
plates.and a few of the bolts .
This done you can mount the sticks and hardware, ailerons and pushtubes,etc...
and then do all the adjustments where you can get to everything rather than
climbing in/out/around the plane e.g
horse horse
______________|____________ _____________|______________
| | s/plate | |
| wing |----|---|----| wing |
| | | |
|----------|--|-----------| |------------|--|----------|
|__________| |__________|
aileron aileron
Best regards
Rob Lee av8r(at)hic.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | kightdm(at)harvey.carol.net |
| Subject: | Sender: owner-rv-list |
Hello,
My name is Danny Kight. I am the vice president and Young Eagle coordinator
for EAA Chapter 249 in Greenville, South Carolina. I currently fly a
Sonerai IILT, but I am building an RV-6 in the garage. I am almost finished
with the empennage. There are 6 other RV-6/6As being built around this
area, plus a couple that are already flying. (Including that RV-6 built in
4 months. It was bought by a really nice fellow in Easley, SC who keeps it
at his fly-in community home/hangar. He has promised me a ride in it when
we can coordinate our schedules!)
I have the trim tab built, and I cut the slot in the elevator for the cable
tonight. Before I rivet the skin down, I wanted to make sure the cable fits
properly. (I got the whole kit at one time, so I have the trim cable handy)
I built the trim tab control horn per the plans, but when everything is
assembled, it is too short. I will either have to bend the control linkage
(very undesirable) or fabricate a slightly longer horn. Has anyone else had
difficulty getting this linkage geometry correct?
For anyone starting with only the empennage kit and planning to use the
manual trim cable, I recommend buying the cable with the tail so everything
can be fit properly before closing it all up. Guessing at where to cut the
slot is not a good idea. You could be in for a nasty surprise when the
fuselage kit finally arrives.
Another question I have is about strobe lights. I want to put a single
strobe in the tip of the vertical fin, but the Whelen unit is obscenely
expensive. Does anyone have experience with other (non-aviation) strobes
and power supplies? Any sources for surplus/salvage strobe systems, etc?
You can contact me at kightdm(at)carol.com
Thanks for a great forum, I just got "on-line" last week, and this was the
first area I looked for.
Danny Kight
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DSlavens(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-ator comment |
Still waiting here, also, for the Oct. (??) issue. I guess the Dec. 95 issue
will come in Feb. or Mar. of 96. Looks like Van needs a little more staff.
But, maybe that's what keeps his prices down.
For those interested in the RV-8, the Jan. 96 issue of USAviator has a 3 page
"first look" pilot report and evaluation.
Happy Holidays,
Dick Slavens waiting for RV-8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
one way to improve the heat you can get from a heat muff is to lesson the
amount of air that you supply to the muff. Lesson the air supply to the muff
give the air you do supply more of a chance to heat up. Becki and I learn
this on our first plane the cold way , and after cutting back on the air
supply we got much better heat.
....George & Becki Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Kelley <72466.1355(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Breaking Edges on spar reinforcements. |
Wing kit has arrived and while taking the inventory I started to ponder how I
was going to "break" the edges of the spar reinforcement strips. I used a belt
sander on the h-stab and it worked out real well. I think these would be harder
to handle with the process I used on the H-Stab. So, just how are you doing
yours? Has anyone used a router with a rounding over bit? I have looked through
the archives and 14yrs of RV history for any ideas, to no avail.
Also thanks again for all the information about the builders logs. I was just
wondering about it's value.
Thanks....
James Kelley
72466.1355(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: control stops |
On the RV-4 they attach to the inside bracket and are shown on the
drawing. Basically a large enough piece of al to stop the aileron
it its upward direction just past the max degree of travel (listed
in the manual for all control surfaces). I attached mine as I was
fitting the aileron to the wings. The downward travel of one aileron
will be stopped by the upward travel of the opposite one so only
one direction is needed.
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
On Thu, 14 Dec 1995, boatright thomas reginald wrote:
>
>
> Is just me or is the information on aileron control stops a bit
> vague. If someone could shed a little more light on the hows, and
> wheres, to attach them..... I would be very appreciative
>
>
> merry christmas
> Thomas Boatright
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MGGX07C(at)prodigy.com ( SCOTT GESELE) |
John,
I had the exact same problem on my canopy ( tilt-up, -6A). The
turtle deck skin over the rear part of the canopy pressed in too much
on the right side. This carried all the way to the front and
resulted in the front of the canopy lifting up about 3/8" off of the
glare shield skin. Once the canopy was split in half, the rear no
longer influenced the front half, resulting in a perfect fit up front.
Do NOT drill the canopy to the side rails of a -6A tip-up, if the
front does not mate properly when the sides are pushed in, prior to
cutting it in half. I did and had to redrill all the side rail holes
after the canopy was cut in order to get a good fit up front.
Hope this helps.
-Scott N506RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ted_boudreaux(at)om.cv.hp.com |
| Subject: | HS409 centerlines |
Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
Well, you all can see how far along I am in my -6A project. My
concern is this: To find the horizontal center (rivet) line on my
HS409 strips, I found the center points on the left and right edges
and connected them. The problem is that when I drew my vertical
centerline, the horizontal (rivet) line did not evenly bisect it. It
looks to be off by almost 1/8 inch. Is this normal? Or should I take
the midpoint of the vertical centerline and connect it to each of the
edge centers separately? This would result in a "V" shaped rivet
line. Opinions?
Ted Boudreaux RV6A
ted_boudreaux@hp-pcd.hp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Breaking Edges on spar reinforcements. |
>Wing kit has arrived and while taking the inventory I started to ponder how I
>was going to "break" the edges of the spar reinforcement strips. I used a belt
>sander on the h-stab and it worked out real well. I think these would be harder
>to handle with the process I used on the H-Stab. So, just how are you doing
>yours? Has anyone used a router with a rounding over bit? I have looked through
>the archives and 14yrs of RV history for any ideas, to no avail.
>
>Also thanks again for all the information about the builders logs. I was just
>wondering about it's value.
>
>Thanks....
>James Kelley
>72466.1355(at)compuserve.com
>
Jim: If you are talking about tapering flange strips, I used a cheap 3
wheel band saw (Delta) to cut the tapers. With the use of LPS cutting fluid
(ACS), the blades will last a long time. For fast clean-up of the cut, I
used the little twist-lock sanding discs (that I got from Avery) on a right
angle air tool and finished the cuts smoother with a hand held belt sander.
I then smoothed them to final finish with the Scotch brite wheel. Bob Skinner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WStucklen(at)aol.com |
>Well one more small problem. Have the heat Muff and heat box as sold by
>Aircraft Spruce and Chief. Problem is that I don't get enough heat in the
>winter. Anything below 40 at ground level gets a little cold at altitude. I
>tried putting stainless steel wool in the heat muff to slow the air down and
>give additional surface for heat transfer. Some gain but not enough to
>venture
>out at 20 degrees or less. Thought that wrapping the muff with turbo tape to
>insulate might help. Any thoughts or other suggestions? Surely someone in
>Minn.
>fly's during the winter.
>
>Thanks
>
>J. Perri CFII RV-6 N345JE now at 400 hr..
I have the same heater, but used a trick I saw once in Sport Aviation. Get
yourself a 1/4" diameter screen door spring. Stretch it out so the coils
don't touch each other, then paint it with high temp exhaust pipe paint
(ceramic?) that you can get from an auto parts store. Wrap it around the
exhaust pipe INSIDE the heat muff. You might have to flatten out the coils on
the bottom of the box where it is closest to the muff (due to the off center
pipe feed though arangement). Get as many turns around the pipe as you can.
Attach the spring ends back onto itself so they don't unwind.
Cabin temps should improve dramatically. I still only get "warm" air at about
-10F, but then again there's not much reason to be flying at those temps
anyway.
Good luck
Fred Stucklen N925RV RV-6A 625Hrs in two years +....
wstucklen(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WStucklen(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Engine Source |
>Don George Custom Lycoming Engines shop phone number is (407) 422-0188. His
>address is 1339 West Washington Street, Orlando, Florida 32805. When I
>bought my engine, the base price for an O-320 was $8950. That may have
>increased in the past few years since I bought mine. I had all of the
>special accessories drop shipped to Don and he gave me credit for the things
>that come on the engine that I didn't need, like the carb and starter. Hope
>this helps.
>
>Jim Cone
>RV-6A working on finishing kit.
>
>
Isn't this the same address as AIR-TEC INC. ? And as I remember it it was
operated by Dick Waters. Although the tel # is not the same.
Does anybody know anything about AIR-TEC? (Tel # 407-839-4746)
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gary Standley <Gary_Standley(at)ccm.ssd.intel.com> |
| Subject: | Breaking Edges on spar reinforcements. |
Text item:
YEP!, A ROUTER WITH A ROUNDING OVER BIT. EXACTLY THE WAY WE DID WHEN I WORKED
FOR PHLOGISTON.
>Wing kit has arrived and while taking the inventory I started to ponder how I
>was going to "break" the edges of the spar reinforcement strips. I used a belt
>sander on the h-stab and it worked out real well. I think these would
be harder
>to handle with the process I used on the H-Stab. So, just how are you doing
>yours? Has anyone used a router with a rounding over bit? I have
looked through
>the archives and 14yrs of RV history for any ideas, to no avail.
>
>Also thanks again for all the information about the builders logs. I was just
>wondering about it's value.
>
>Thanks....
>James Kelley
>72466.1355(at)compuserve.com
>
Jim: If you are talking about tapering flange strips, I used a cheap 3
wheel band saw (Delta) to cut the tapers. With the use of LPS cutting fluid
(ACS), the blades will last a long time. For fast clean-up of the cut, I
used the little twist-lock sanding discs (that I got from Avery) on a right
angle air tool and finished the cuts smoother with a hand held belt sander.
I then smoothed them to final finish with the Scotch brite wheel. Bob Skinner
Text item: External Message Header
The following mail header is for administrative use
and may be ignored unless there are problems.
***IF THERE ARE PROBLEMS SAVE THESE HEADERS***.
Subject: Re: RV-List: Breaking Edges on spar reinforcements.
From: Bob Skinner <ltec.net!BSkinner(at)matronics.com>
Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 10:33:53 -0600
intel.com (8.6.12/8.6.12) with ESMTP id JAA02714 for | From: | Tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com |
| Subject: | Changing from aol to netcom |
Hello fellow rv-listers,
I'm changing my service from America Online to Netcom. My e-mail
used to be LaBoyteaux(at)aol.com, now it's Tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com. This
is just an fyi to the list.
Now, on to rv stuff. I saw on the rv-list where Easy Publishing was
clearing out their stock of 14 Years of the RVator. I called to order
one, but I was too late. So, I went ahead and ordered one from Vans.
I should have done that as soon as they were available! They are a
very good source of info. I'm currently deburring and dimpling all of
the bottom skins for my -6a, and have already seen some very helpfull
tips that will save some headaches down the road.
Mark LaBoyteaux
RV-6a skinning fuse
Tailspin(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dierks(at)austin.ibm.com |
| Subject: | control stops (fwd) |
Don't worry about the control stops until you have the wings on
and the ailerons rigged. Determine the max travel of the ailerons
per the specs and that will determine where the aileron stops go.
It is just a flat piece of 3/16 inch (I think, don't have plans here)
AL that you rivet to the inside hinge. You place this stop so that
it parallels the 4130 steel hing bracket that is riveted to your aileron.
Once the position is determined, remove the aileron and install the stop.
This piece needs to be thick enough to provide a good contact for the
4130 bracket but not thickenough to interfer with any aileron movement.
Herman
>
>
> Is just me or is the information on aileron control stops a bit
> vague. If someone could shed a little more light on the hows, and
> wheres, to attach them..... I would be very appreciative
>
>
> merry christmas
> Thomas Boatright
Herman Dierks, Dept. E54S, AWSD Austin, Texas
mail: dierks(at)austin.ibm.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Earl Brabandt" <cwbraban(at)ichips.intel.com> |
> exhaust with his heat muff. Get lots of air, but not too warm. Larry
> Vetterman suggested that another heat muff be installed on on another pipe
> and used to pre-heat the air going into the existing muff.
Theory would indicate that you'd be better off using the second heat
muff as a second independent heater rather than using it as a preheater
for the current muff. The total heat energy transferred to the cockpit
by the two muffs should be greater this way because the second muff would
have a greater temperature delta with cold air input rather than preheated
air and hence transfer more energy to the air.
I was planning on using two independent muffs unless new arguments
indicate otherwise.
Cal Brabandt N66VR (RV-6 under construction)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-ator comment |
[snip]
> But for my own curiousity, why do some people paint a metal
> aiplane silver? I know the RVs have large portions of white fiberglass
> that you have to do something with. But I have also seen other ALL metal
> airplanes painted silver? Any comments.
>
> Bob Busick
>
Why does anyone paint their plane ANY color? It's not just cosmetic,
it's also to protect the skin from corrosion, scratches, etc. Silver's
just another color, even though it happens to be similar to the color
of bare aluminum.
I don't remember exactly what the figure was, but as I remember it
takes Dave Anders something like 18 hours to polish his plane.
Maybe that's why.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Breaking Edges on spar reinforcements. |
> Wing kit has arrived and while taking the inventory I started to ponder how I
> was going to "break" the edges of the spar reinforcement strips. I used a belt
> sander on the h-stab and it worked out real well. I think these would be harder
> to handle with the process I used on the H-Stab. So, just how are you doing
> yours?
[snip]
> James Kelley
Die grinder with 1 or 2" scotch-brite abrasive wheel.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-ator comment |
>
> I don't remember exactly what the figure was, but as I remember it
> takes Dave Anders something like 18 hours to polish his plane.
>
> Maybe that's why.
>
> Randall Henderson
> RV-6
>
I remember hearing 40 Hrs.
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gil(at)rassp.hac.com (Gil Alexander) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-ator comment |
The first thing I noticed about the photo was the dorsal fin strake.
Anyone know if this is aerodynamic or just adds to the "WWII" fighter look??
Gil Alexander
gil(at)rassp.hac.com
*** references to cover shot of latest RVator, and silver paint vs. natural ***
>[snip]
>> But for my own curiousity, why do some people paint a metal
>> aiplane silver? I know the RVs have large portions of white fiberglass
>> that you have to do something with. But I have also seen other ALL metal
>> airplanes painted silver? Any comments.
>>
>> Bob Busick
>>
>
>Why does anyone paint their plane ANY color? It's not just cosmetic,
>it's also to protect the skin from corrosion, scratches, etc. Silver's
>just another color, even though it happens to be similar to the color
>of bare aluminum.
>
>I don't remember exactly what the figure was, but as I remember it
>takes Dave Anders something like 18 hours to polish his plane.
>
>Maybe that's why.
>
>Randall Henderson
>RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-ator comment |
But for my own curiousity, why do some people paint a metal
aiplane silver? I know the RVs have large portions of white fiberglass
that you have to do something with. But I have also seen other ALL metal
airplanes painted silver? Any comments.
Because of polishing time. Actually, POLISHING time. On a bare metal
airplane you have to continually polish the finish (primarily by hand) to
keep it from oxidizing, and to keep it looking spiffy. A lot of people just
paint it silver (not near as pretty) and fly. (a lot more FUN than polishing)
- Ed Bundy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Message archive |
>Maybe I can help having just downloaded the archives myself.
Thanks a lot, I'll try that!
-- Ed Bundy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
>
> > exhaust with his heat muff. Get lots of air, but not too warm. Larry
> > Vetterman suggested that another heat muff be installed on on another pipe
> > and used to pre-heat the air going into the existing muff.
>
> Theory would indicate that you'd be better off using the second heat
> muff as a second independent heater rather than using it as a preheater
> for the current muff. The total heat energy transferred to the cockpit
> by the two muffs should be greater this way because the second muff would
> have a greater temperature delta with cold air input rather than preheated
> air and hence transfer more energy to the air.
>
> I was planning on using two independent muffs unless new arguments
> indicate otherwise.
>
> Cal Brabandt N66VR (RV-6 under construction)
>
Cal:
Your definitely right about the greater temperature difference leading to
better heat transfer. To get the best effectiveness out of parallel
(verses serial) heat muffs, though, I think that you'd want to limit the
airflow a bit. In other words you wouldn't want to have twice the air
going through the heat muffs in the same period of time. That would just
double your leakage out of the cabin without increasing the temperature of
the incoming air (although more warm air would still help). I expect that
if you slow down the air through the heat muffs you'll get the maximum
heating.
Any HVAC engineers out there that can confirm this?
Tedd
Edmonton
(nothing yet)
________________________________________________________________________________
I don't know about heating planes, but I do know about heating houses,
so don't take this as being gospel truth.
Two muffs operating in parallel will provide more total heat to
the cockpit. Your theory is correct. However, I think the objective
is not total heat to the cockpit, but human comfort. Based upon
previous appends, I suspect that two muffs in series will provide
greater human comfort.
Although parallel muffs will transfer heat more efficiently,
getting blasted with warm air that is not warm enough will feel
cold. It sounds like that is what was happening for some people.
I wouldn't want to be in my house standing over a register which
is pumping out 75F air trying to raise the temperature from 68F
to 70F. I'd rather have less quantity of air which is 100F.
There are several variables here: heat transfer efficiency,
outside temperature, what the people in the cockpit are wearing,
etc. Since I can't and wouldn't want to calculate a bunch of
different scenarios, I think the best thing to do here is
rely upon experience of people who fly in similar situations as
yourself. I suspect the higher temperature and lower volume
is the way to go, but maybe there is some scenario where that
isn't true (flying in alaska in winter while dressed for cold
weather... I don't know... this last comment is speculative).
I think the Orndorff's solution of slowing/reducing air was
a testament that for THEM the best solution was raising the
air temperature, not volume.
Good luck,
dk
> Theory would indicate that you'd be better off using the second heat
> muff as a second independent heater rather than using it as a preheater
> for the current muff. The total heat energy transferred to the cockpit
> by the two muffs should be greater this way because the second muff would
> have a greater temperature delta with cold air input rather than preheated
> air and hence transfer more energy to the air.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Don Karl karl@dg-rtp.dg.com (919)248-5915
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MGGX07C(at)prodigy.com ( SCOTT GESELE) |
| Subject: | Canopy info. request |
Gil,
I followed the basic procedures shown in the Orndorff's videos, even
though they built a slider and mine is the tip-up. Cutting the
plexiglass is not hard, just intimidating and time consuming. I used
about 30# air to my drill while cutting, always made several passes
and only took a small amount of material off during each cut.
Per my original post, I would split the canopy in half prior to
drilling the side rails.
Hope this helps
-Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JerryFlyRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV-ator comment |
I like the dorsal fin and the paint scheme I just wonder if anybody else
noticed his left upper gear cuff sliding down?
Jerry Springer
JerryFlyRV(at)AOL.COM
>The first thing I noticed about the photo was the dorsal fin strake.
>
>Anyone know if this is aerodynamic or just adds to the "WWII" fighter look??
>
>Gil Alexander
>gil(at)rassp.hac.com
>
>
>*** references to cover shot of latest RVator, and silver paint vs. natural
>***
>
>>[snip]
>>> But for my own curiousity, why do some people paint a metal
>>> aiplane silver? I know the RVs have large portions of white fiberglass
>>> that you have to do something with. But I have also seen other ALL metal
>>> airplanes painted silver? Any comments.
>>>
>>> Bob Busick
>>>
>>
>>Why does anyone paint their plane ANY color? It's not just cosmetic,
>>it's also to protect the skin from corrosion, scratches, etc. Silver's
>>just another color, even though it happens to be similar to the color
>>of bare aluminum.
>>
>>I don't remember exactly what the figure was, but as I remember it
>>takes Dave Anders something like 18 hours to polish his plane.
>>
>>Maybe that's why.
>>
>>Randall Henderson
>>RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gil(at)rassp.hac.com (Gil Alexander) |
>
>> Theory would indicate that you'd be better off using the second heat
>> muff as a second independent heater rather than using it as a preheater
>> for the current muff. The total heat energy transferred to the cockpit
>> by the two muffs should be greater this way because the second muff would
>> have a greater temperature delta with cold air input rather than preheated
>> air and hence transfer more energy to the air.
This sounds like a good idea, especially if it was implemented as
two completely seperate systems with two firewall heat control valve boxes
on each side of the cockpit.
This would give the pilot and passenger/co-pilot seperate
temperature controls. Married folks only --- How many times do you and
your spouse want the thermostat at home set differently? :^)
For my RV6A, I know that my English genes and my wife's California
desert genes definitely have different temperature comfort zones :^)
Time to buy another firewall heat valve box.
... keep warm (or at least temperate) ... Gil Alexander
gil(at)rassp.hac.com
RV6A, #20701 ....... canopy frame still ...
.... will be cruising, heat on one side, cooling air on the other!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carolynn Hiatt <hiatt001(at)gold.tc.umn.edu> |
| Subject: | Message of goodwill |
Here's wishing every RV'r a happy holliday and a prosperous and safe New
Year.
Fred & Carolynn Hiatt, hiatt001(at)gold.tc.umn.edu
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HS409 centerlines |
>Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
> Well, you all can see how far along I am in my -6A project. My
> concern is this: To find the horizontal center (rivet) line on my
> HS409 strips, I found the center points on the left and right edges
> and connected them. The problem is that when I drew my vertical
> centerline, the horizontal (rivet) line did not evenly bisect it. It
> looks to be off by almost 1/8 inch. Is this normal? Or should I take
> the midpoint of the vertical centerline and connect it to each of the
> edge centers separately? This would result in a "V" shaped rivet
> line. Opinions?
>
> Ted Boudreaux RV6A
> ted_boudreaux@hp-pcd.hp.com
>
Ted: Think right and left halves. In other words, find middle of
flange strip at center of HS409 and draw line thru center at ends. I'm sure
you realize there is a particular orientaion of these strips. Also, suggest
pilot drilling of flange strips with # 40 on drill press, then drilling on
spar, then drilling out to # 30. Bob Skinner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
>>
>> > exhaust with his heat muff. Get lots of air, but not too warm. Larry
>> > Vetterman suggested that another heat muff be installed on on another pipe
>> > and used to pre-heat the air going into the existing muff.
>>
>> Theory would indicate that you'd be better off using the second heat
>> muff as a second independent heater rather than using it as a preheater
>> for the current muff. The total heat energy transferred to the cockpit
>> by the two muffs should be greater this way because the second muff would
>> have a greater temperature delta with cold air input rather than preheated
>> air and hence transfer more energy to the air.
>>
>> I was planning on using two independent muffs unless new arguments
>> indicate otherwise.
>>
>> Cal Brabandt N66VR (RV-6 under construction)
>>
>
>Cal:
>
>Your definitely right about the greater temperature difference leading to
>better heat transfer. To get the best effectiveness out of parallel
>(verses serial) heat muffs, though, I think that you'd want to limit the
>airflow a bit. In other words you wouldn't want to have twice the air
>going through the heat muffs in the same period of time. That would just
>double your leakage out of the cabin without increasing the temperature of
>the incoming air (although more warm air would still help). I expect that
>if you slow down the air through the heat muffs you'll get the maximum
>heating.
>
>Any HVAC engineers out there that can confirm this?
>
>Tedd
>Edmonton
>(nothing yet)
>
I have tried varying the amount of air in two ways. One was
blocking off the incoming air at the baffle. I flew with the 2" inlet
blocked 3 different ways. The only difference noted was change in volume of
air not really the temp. I assume that adjusting the amount of air entering
the cockpit via the cockpit control cable also determines the speed of air
through the heat muff and therfore the amount of heat present for a given
amount of air. In other words, if you cut down the amount of air coming in,
shouldn't the air that does manage to make it into the cockpit contain a
higher heat value? In practice, it seemed that you got the most heat by
having the greatest air flow, in other words, the air door all the way open.
I don't understand thermo dynamics but I can sure tell when I'm cold! A
previous post on his and her side of the airplane-cold vs. heat sure struck
home. With my wife, I should forget about electric socks and get electric
coveralls, head to toe. How big of alternator would I need for this?
Great discussion on cabin heat! Bob Skinner RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | The Prancing Welshman <reichera(at)clark.net> |
| Subject: | Humor - SANTA HAS A BUDGET TOO! |
Happy Holidays everybody!
- Alan
> *****A T T E N T I O N A L L E M P L O Y E E S******
>
> The recent announcement that Donner and Blitzen have elected to take
> the early reindeer retirement package has triggered a good deal of
> concern about whether they will be replaced, and about other
> restructuring decisions at the North Pole.
>
> Streamlining was appropriate in view of the reality that the North
> Pole no longer dominates the season's gift distribution business. Home
> shopping channels and mail order catalogues have diminished Santa's
> market share and they could not sit idly by and permit further erosion
> of the profit picture.
>
> The reindeer downsizing was made possible through the purchase of a
> late model Japanese sled for the CEO's annual trip. Improved
> productivity from Dasher and Dancer, who summered at the Harvard
> Business School, is anticipated and should take up the slack with no
> discernible loss of service. Reduction in reindeer will also lessen
> airborne environmental emissions for which the North Pole has been
> cited and received unfavorable press.
>
> I am pleased to inform you and yours that Rudolph's role will not be
> disturbed. Tradition still counts for something at the North Pole.
> Management denies, in the strongest possible language, the earlier leak
> that Rudolph's nose got that way not from the cold, but from substance
> abuse. Calling Rudolph "a lush who was into the sauce and never did pull
> his share of the load" was an unfortunate comment, made by one of Santa's
> helpers and taken out of context at a time of year when he is known to be
> under executive stress.
>
> As a further restructuring, today's global challenges require the
> North Pole to continue to look for better, more competitive steps.
> Effective immediately, the following economy measures are to take
> place in the "Twelve Days of Christmas" subsidiary:
>
> - The partridge will be retained, but the pear tree never turned
> out to be the cash crop forecasted. It will be replaced by a plastic
> hanging plant, providing considerable savings in maintenance.
>
> - The two turtle doves represent a redundancy that is simply not
> cost effective. In addition, their romance during working hours could
> not be condoned. The positions are therefore eliminated.
>
> - The three French hens will remain intact. After all, everyone
> loves the French.
>
> - The four calling birds were replaced by an automated voice
> mail system, with a call waiting option. An analysis is underway to
> determine who the birds have been calling, how often and how long they
> talked.
>
> - The five golden rings have been put on hold by the Board of
> Directors. Maintaining a portfolio based on one commodity could have
> negative implications for institutional investors. Diversification
> into other precious metals as well as a mix of T- Bills and high
> technology stocks appear to be in order.
>
> - The six geese-a-laying constitutes a luxury which can no
> longer be afforded. It has long been felt that the production rate of
> one egg per goose per day is an example of the decline in
> productivity. Three geese will be let go, and an upgrading in the
> selection procedure by personnel will assure management that from now
> on every goose it gets will be a good one.
>
> - The seven swans-a-swimming is obviously a number chosen in
> better times. The function is primarily decorative. Mechanical swans
> are on order. The current swans will be retrained to learn some new
> strokes and therefore enhance their outplacement.
>
> - As you know, the eight maids-a-milking concept has been under
> heavy scrutiny by the EEOC. A male/female balance in the workforce is
> being sought. The more militant maids consider this a dead-end job
> with no upward mobility. Automation of the process may permit the
> maids to try a-mending, a-mentoring or a-mulching.
>
> - Nine ladies dancing has always been an odd number. This
> function will be phased out as these individuals grow older and can no
> longer do the steps.
>
> - Ten Lords-a-leaping is overkill. The high cost of Lords plus
> the expense of international air travel prompted the Compensation
> Committee to suggest replacing this group with ten out-of-work
> congressmen. While leaping ability may be somewhat sacrificed, the
> savings are significant because we expect an oversupply of unemployed
> congressmen this year.
>
> - Eleven pipers piping and twelve drummers drumming is a simple
> case of the band getting too big. A substitution with a string
> quartet, a cutback on new music and no uniforms will produce savings
> which will drop right down to the bottom line.
>
> - We can expect a substantial reduction in assorted people,
> fowl, animals and other expenses. Though incomplete, studies indicate
> that stretching deliveries over twelve days is inefficient. If we can
> drop shipping to one day, service levels will be improved.
>
> - Regarding the lawsuit filed by the attorney's association
> seeking expansion to include the legal profession ("thirteen
> lawyers-a-suing"), action is pending.
>
> - Lastly, it is not beyond consideration that deeper cuts may be
> necessary in the future to stay competitive. Should that happen, the
> Board will request management to scrutinize the Snow White Division to
> see if seven dwarfs is the right number.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | donmack(at)interaccess.com (Don Mack) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-ator comment |
>
> I don't remember exactly what the figure was, but as I remember it
> takes Dave Anders something like 18 hours to polish his plane.
>
> Maybe that's why.
>
> Randall Henderson
> RV-6
>
He also has this total look of panic anytime a flock of birds go overhead :>
donmack
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-ator comment |
On Thu, 14 Dec 1995, Robert Busick wrote:
> But for my own curiousity, why do some people paint a metal
> aiplane silver?
Very simple. They are the ones who like the look of a polished aluminum
airplane, but know better than to actually try to keep a polished
airplane looking nice.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: control stops |
On Thu, 14 Dec 1995, boatright thomas reginald wrote:
> Is just me or is the information on aileron control stops a bit
> vague. If someone could shed a little more light on the hows, and
> wheres, to attach them..... I would be very appreciative
SInce I am just about to install them, I'll give it a try:
First, while I think the Construction Manual refers to them as
*down* stops, in actuality they are *up* stops. You do not need to also
install down stops because one aileron's up stop will limit the down
travel on the other aileron.
Now that I have both wings finished, my plan is to set them on sawhorses
and connect the pushtubes together so that the ailerons will interact.
That way I can make sure that the upstop for one aileron will truly act
also as the downstop for the other.
Then I'll locate the stops so that the aileron travel is more than the
minimum required, but short of the actual mechanical limits. A hemostat
works great to clamp the stop in position.
FInally, I'll remove the ailerons and drill the sops to the hinge brackets.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <75320.215(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Smithy 3-in-1 Machine |
Does anyone have any experience with a Smithy 3-in-1 machine tool, the one
that's advertised in Sport Aviation? I'm considering buying one of these, but
I've never actually seen one in real life. I don't own any machine tools at
the moment.
I'd like a lathe and small mill for other reasons, but would they be handy
during the construction of any RV-6, or not much help?
Tedd McHenry
Edmontmon
(not started yet)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)ammeterj.seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Smithy 3-in-1 Machine |
>Does anyone have any experience with a Smithy 3-in-1 machine tool, the one
>that's advertised in Sport Aviation? I'm considering buying one of these, but
>I've never actually seen one in real life. I don't own any machine tools at
>the moment.
>
>I'd like a lathe and small mill for other reasons, but would they be handy
>during the construction of any RV-6, or not much help?
>
>Tedd McHenry
>Edmontmon
>(not started yet)
>
The Smith 3 in 1 is a great idea but you might want to check out another
company. There is a company in Aberdeen, WA that sells the same type of
device for cheaper. I don't have one but have talked to them. They SAY
that the Smithy is a cheap copy of what they sell. Can't recall the name of
the company but they advertise in Sport Aviation occasionally. If you're
really interested (or anyone else) I'll find out the name and post it on the
NET.
Let me know what you want.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)ammeterj.seanet.com
Seattle WA, USA
RV-6 N16JA
Flying 5 years
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)ammeterj.seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Alternate Strobe Source |
Someone asked if there was a cheaper strobe than the Whelen. I have seen an
ad for a 'personal' strobe that you would wear on your belt when changing
your tire or walking on a dark street. It is sold in auto supply stores and
sells for about $25-30. The brand name is Lightman and they have a number
you can call 1-800-364-6263. I haven't seen it, myself, but a friend who
is building an RV-6 has bought one and plans to use it for the vertical stab.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)ammeterj.seanet.com
Seattle WA, USA
RV-6 N16JA
Flying 5 years
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Smithy 3-in-1 Machine |
>Does anyone have any experience with a Smithy 3-in-1 machine tool, the one
>that's advertised in Sport Aviation? I'm considering buying one of these, but
>I've never actually seen one in real life. I don't own any machine tools at
>the moment.
>
>I'd like a lathe and small mill for other reasons, but would they be handy
>during the construction of any RV-6, or not much help?
>
>Tedd McHenry
>Edmontmon
>(not started yet)
>
Tedd, I bought a Smithy several years ago. They certainly aren't
necessary for building a RV, but they can make some fabrications a little
easier. I bought one just because I wanted to learn about machining. Here
are a few things that I can remember making on my RV: I'm using a throttle
cable with a twist lock (didn't like the one Van's include in kit) and it
had an ugly plastic knob, so I made one out of aluminum. I made inserts for
the control sticks with provisions for push-to-talk switches. Used the
lathe to polish the throttle knob and flap push button. I used the lathe to
polish and taper a 2" aluminum duct flange to use as a mold so I couold wax
it and use it to make fiberglass 2" duct flanges for attachment on the back
of my fresh air vents. Used the machine to make "bullets" to help line up
bolt holes, shape and mill spacer blocks, used the mill to cut the slot in
the manual flap handle. I've used it to make several things for use around
the house.
Probably the way to look at the purchase of a Smithy is that you'd
buy it anyway because you want to learn about machining or for hobby stuff.
Then I'm sure you'd find things to use it for on your RV. Bob Skinner
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ski's & RV-4 |
I've also been considering ways to haul my skiis in my RV-6A. My first
thought was to build racks in the tail cone of the fuselage and slide them
back. However after speaking with someone at Van's (I forget who) I was
advised that between the weight of the skiis and the amount of other gear
that would need to go behind the seats, I would probably be causing an aft cg
problem. Van's suggested instead building a belly pod that can be easily
installed or removed when needed. Such a pod would sit right on the cg point
and could therefore be stuffed with gear with little impact on performance.
(at least non-aerobatic performance) It would also offer the benefit of easy
loading and would prevent all that snow and mud from dripping into your
fuselage after a day on the slopes.
Van's said to get a fat piece of PVC piping and attach a standard spinner to
each end. I think we can do better. I have made a rough sketch of a
symetrical belly pod that would open up on each end or like a clam shell for
easy loading. It would be easy to attach when needed with a clevis type
arrangement. (the female end would be permanently attached to the airframe.
The pod would then hang with a couple AN-5 bolts) Anyway a local fiberglass
place said they could build these things for about $300-400 each which is
real cheap, except I would also have to build a form +/-$2000 and also a mold
for another $2000. If enough of us were interested, perhaps we could split
the cost of the form and mold and get these things made at reasonable price.
By the way, Just cause I'm going to fill this thing with skiis, doesn't mean
you can't put whatever else you'd like in it instead. (golf clubs, camping
gear, duffle bags, food, flag poles, whatever)
If anyone is interested, or can think of a better solution please e-mail back
Andy Gold
RV-6A (finishing kit)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rv-list: RV-6A Step |
I put a step on the right side of my RV-6A too. It is very light and appears
to have little if any drag penalty. I put it on because even though I know I
will be carefull, passengers may not be as aware and the flap might appear to
be a real attractive place to step on or accidently kick when climbing in or
out of the plane.
By the way, GET YOUR PRIORITIES STRAIGHT.
It's not: ring - GYRO, ring - GPS
It's: Gyro - ring, GPS - ring!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com (Curtis R. Hinkley ) |
We are setting up a partnership in Sterling VA., to build an RV6A.
We have been trying to get a handle on the total cost for
completing a 6A which when its completed will be placed in a flying
club. We have come up with the following list of parts which total
almost $63,000. As you can see from the list of parts it is a full IFR
bird with 180HP C/S & inverted oil system.
If you have completed your RV or have gone through the process of
figuring out what parts you will need, would you mind looking over
our list and letting me know if we have left anything off. We would
also appreciate any suggestions. One of the reasons we have everything
on this 6A is because as we discussed what we each wanted in an
airplane the list got longer. I want IFR capability, another wants
light aerobatics (ie. inverted oil system), another wants fuel
injection to eliminate carb ice. So you can see when you try to meet
everyones needs and wants it adds up. Another concern was the cost to
operate and maintain after completion, this is why we are going to
start a club and place it in a club to share the cost. With this in
mind we are also trying to guess what prospective members would want in
this type of airplane.
I know some of the folks on the RV-List are purist and since this is
not a building specific question if my request causes anyone any heart
burn, please reply directly to my I-Net address:
chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com
RV6A Kit,electric flap, manual aileron trim
sliding canopy. 11,500.00
>From VANS ACCESSORIES CATALOG
PAGE. ITEM. COST.
3. O-360-A1A 18,900.00
3. Dynafocal vibration mounts.
4(at)65.36ea 261.44
3. Dynafocal engine mount bolt set. 17.59
4. Gascolator 42.00
4 Fuel pump 2(at)29.95 59.90
5. Throttle cable 40.00
5. Mixture cable 21.40
6. Christen Inverted Oil System 500.00
6. Hose and Fitting Kit 700.00
6. Sump Kit 265.00
6. Air Box 99.50
6. Cowl Air scoop 61.00
7. Engine cooling baffle kit 175.00
7. Oil Cooler 220.00
9. Hartzell CS-Prop 3,995.00
9. Governor 850.00
13. Cabin air/heat box kit 30.00
14. fresh air system 2(at)25.00 50.00
15. Option B. Strobe lights 618.11
22. VHF, bent whip 79.50
22. Vor/GS/Localizer 149.00
22. Marker beacon 68.50
22. Transponder blade 59.50
22. ELT 219.00
22. ELT antenna 50.00
32. Tilt-Up strut kit 60.00
33. Dual brake kit 150.00
34. Electric flap kit 225.00
34. firewall recess kit. 11.40
35. Step Kit 2(at)79.50 159.00
36. Two piece wheel fairing 180.00
36. Static air kit 11.34
Other Misc.
Landing lights like the Ornidorffs have
on their yellow 6A. ??? 400.00
Misc. fittings & hose 200.00
voltage regulator 50.00
Vacumpump 400.00
65-75 amp alternator 400.00
Battery 100.00
Wire & fittings 200.00
Proseal 62.00
FLIGHT INSTRUMENTS
I pulled these out ot the Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.
256. Hobbs 60.00
253. Compass 75.00
250. Vertical Speed Indicator 170.00
249. Air Speed Indicator 250.00
246. Turn Coordinator (elct) Un-lighted 320.00
245. RC Allen Attitude Gyro un-lighted 400.00
245. RC Allen Directional Gyro un-lighted 400.00
248. Suction Gauge 70.00
248. Suction gauge air filter 32.00
248. Suction Regulator 160.00
250. Heated Pitot 180.00
Other Instruments
Rocky Mountain Instruments Micro-Encoder 850.00
Rocky Mountain Instruments engine 969.00
Wing leveler 1300.00
AVIONICS
The complete TERRA Stack with dual G/S 9,880.00
Other Misc:
Paint and supplies 1,000.00
Other misc stuff 4,000.00
Fuel injection 1,500.00
TOTAL 63,256.18
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-ator comment |
> I too did the same thing last night. I do have a general
> question that I know there is no right or wrong answer and I don't want
> to offend anyone or the builder of the RV-6 on the cover of the latest
> issue. But for my own curiousity, why do some people paint a metal
> aiplane silver? I know the RVs have large portions of white fiberglass
> that you have to do something with. But I have also seen other ALL metal
> airplanes painted silver? Any comments.
>
> Bob Busick
> RV-6 unpainted silver
> rbusick(at)nmsu.edu
Painting the airplane provides corrosion protection. So what you're asking
is "why silver?"
This could be a nostalgia thing. A recent "Experimenter" article talked
about airplane colors a little. There was a time when people mixed in
ground up silver in their dope to provide some color.
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-595-9690(w)
Showpage Software, Inc.
435 Ford Rd, Suite 315
St. Louis Park, Mn 55426 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | Need Elevator Advice, How Much Can I Elongate The Spar Rod End |
Bearing Holes?
My elevator spar holes are a quarter of an inch off horizontally in the
elevator spar. Can I elongate the holes a quarter of an inch ? Since I am
only at the spar building stage I can scrap them if I need to. Since there
is a backing plate for the elevator spar holes that is perfectly drilled, I
believe I am OK. What do you think ?
Scott in Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JerryFlyRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Need Elevator Advice, How Much Can I Elongate The Spar Rod |
End B...
>My elevator spar holes are a quarter of an inch off horizontally in the
>elevator spar. Can I elongate the holes a quarter of an inch ? Since I am
>only at the spar building stage I can scrap them if I need to. Since there
>is a backing plate for the elevator spar holes that is perfectly drilled, I
>believe I am OK. What do you think ?
>
> Scott in Chicago
Scott I would replace them or call Van and see if some doubler arangement
would be alright. I know that these airplane are way overbuilt and are very
strong but you will think about all the places you have doubts about while
you are on the down side of a "Split S" or on the back side of a loop. I know
a person hates to spend extra money for parts but at the stage you are at I
think in the long run you will be happier if you replace them.
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14,1989
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Elevator Advice, How Much Can I Elongate The Spar Rod |
End Bearing Holes?
On Sat, 16 Dec 1995, Scott Johnson wrote:
> My elevator spar holes are a quarter of an inch off horizontally in the
> elevator spar...
If I understand you correctly, you mean the holes in the elevator spar
for the rod ends are off by a quarter of an inch, right?
The best way to repair this sort of error (and Lord knows I've repaired a
few of my own) is to create a 'sandwich patch'. That is, in addition to
the existing doubler, install a second doubler on the opposite side of
the spar. You've now 'sandwiched' the misaligned hole with the two
doublers and you can then go ahead and re-drill.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DSlavens(at)aol.com |
To those that have not received their Oct. RVator yet, keep the faith.
I received my today, Sat. (12/16/95). Nice Xmas present.
Dick Slavens Napa, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
>We are setting up a partnership in Sterling VA., to build an RV6A.
>We have been trying to get a handle on the total cost for
>completing a 6A which when its completed will be placed in a flying
>club. We have come up with the following list of parts which total
>almost $63,000. As you can see from the list of parts it is a full IFR
>bird with 180HP C/S & inverted oil system.
Wheeze, cough, gasp. Uh, personally, *I* can't think of anything you missed;
maybe a corporate pilot to fly it for you? Sorry, I couldn't resist.
Seriously though, It seems that you might be more interested in something
more "conventional" than an RV. Some people may disagree, but my opinion
(and that of many others, including the factory) is that RV's are not a real
terrific IFR platform. With the equipment you suggest, it sounds as though
that may be a primary goal. They do well for light-duty IFR, but are a bit
sensitive when things get rough.
The RV6 is a great all-around airplane, and it does many things well, but it
can't be everything. You may be better off considering two used factory
aircraft, like a 172/182 and a Citabria or something similar. That way your
club would have twice as many aircraft available as well. Not as cool as an
RV, and maybe not as useful either. I'm not sure what I'd do, I just thought
I'd toss in an idea.
Regards,
-- Ed Bundy
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Need Elevator Advice, How Much Can I Elongate The |
Spar Rod End Bearing
Holes?
Scott,
If I understand you right this should not be a problem, the backing plate takes
the big plate nuts if i remember right, and the plates rivet to the spar.. the
holes in the spar have to be a bit oversized anyway to allow free passage of the
rod end to the nutplate. Just ensure everything is smoothed off and deburred and
go on.... just promise yourself never again to drill a hole before you visually
check it out and you match it to the piece it is supposed to fit to....
Been there, done that, got the T-Shirt too !
Happy building,
Rob Lee, Av8r(at)hic.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | Can I Use 4 Washers in the Elevator ? |
The plans say it is permissible to use upto 3 washers between the control
horm and the HS bearing. Unfortunately it looks as if I will need 4 on both
sides. I could shave into the HS tip rib so that I could move the elevator
over more towards the HS bearing but I think this would be worse than adding
an extra washer. Any thoughts on this ? I would be interested if anybody
else has had this problem ? Scott in Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Elevator Advice, How Much Can I Elongate The |
Spar Rod End B...
>
>>My elevator spar holes are a quarter of an inch off horizontally in the
>>elevator spar. Can I elongate the holes a quarter of an inch ? Since I am
>>only at the spar building stage I can scrap them if I need to. Since there
>>is a backing plate for the elevator spar holes that is perfectly drilled, I
>>believe I am OK. What do you think ?
>>
>> Scott in Chicago
>
>Scott I would replace them or call Van and see if some doubler arangement
>would be alright. I know that these airplane are way overbuilt and are very
>strong but you will think about all the places you have doubts about while
>you are on the down side of a "Split S" or on the back side of a loop. I know
>a person hates to spend extra money for parts but at the stage you are at I
>think in the long run you will be happier if you replace them.
>
>Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14,1989
>
Thanks Jerry for the advice ! Scott in Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Need Elevator Advice, How Much Can I Elongate |
TheSpar Rod End BearingHoles?
>Scott,
>
>If I understand you right this should not be a problem, the backing plate
takes
>the big plate nuts if i remember right, and the plates rivet to the spar.. the
>holes in the spar have to be a bit oversized anyway to allow free passage
of the
>rod end to the nutplate. Just ensure everything is smoothed off and
deburred and
>go on.... just promise yourself never again to drill a hole before you
visually
>check it out and you match it to the piece it is supposed to fit to....
>
>Been there, done that, got the T-Shirt too !
>
>Happy building,
>
>Rob Lee, Av8r(at)hic.net
>
Thanks Rob for the advice ! Scott in Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
>
>>We are setting up a partnership in Sterling VA., to build an RV6A.
>>We have been trying to get a handle on the total cost for
>>completing a 6A which when its completed will be placed in a flying
>>club. We have come up with the following list of parts which total
>>almost $63,000. As you can see from the list of parts it is a full IFR
>>bird with 180HP C/S & inverted oil system.
>
>Wheeze, cough, gasp. Uh, personally, *I* can't think of anything you missed;
>maybe a corporate pilot to fly it for you? Sorry, I couldn't resist.
> Seriously though, It seems that you might be more interested in something
>more "conventional" than an RV. Some people may disagree, but my opinion
>(and that of many others, including the factory) is that RV's are not a real
>terrific IFR platform. With the equipment you suggest, it sounds as though
>that may be a primary goal. They do well for light-duty IFR, but are a bit
>sensitive when things get rough.
>
>The RV6 is a great all-around airplane, and it does many things well, but it
>can't be everything. You may be better off considering two used factory
>aircraft, like a 172/182 and a Citabria or something similar. That way your
>club would have twice as many aircraft available as well. Not as cool as an
>RV, and maybe not as useful either. I'm not sure what I'd do, I just thought
>I'd toss in an idea.
>
>Regards,
>-- Ed Bundy
>
Sorry Ed, but I must be one to disagree.
I have a 4 that is IFR equiped and flown IFR frequently. The key word is
FREQUENTLY. Yea its sensitive, but you get used to it. The problem isn't
the IFR part, it's the IFR and the inverted system that screws up the deal.
I like to do aerobatics too. Aerobatics and gyros don't mix. Loops, split s,
cubans,etc. tear hell out of your gyros. Ive spent alot of time with the gyro
companys trying to find a way to prevent the problem but there is no cheap fix.
What they need to do is build a cage and LOCK device and a vacum dump valve.
Just unpluging the vacum line does not work. The gyros still bang around.
They need to be locked without vacum applied. Competition aerobatic aircraft
often have removable sub panels for their gyros for ferry flights.
One addition to the equipment list for IFR use would be an autopilot. Since
these things are so sensitive its nice to flip on when you are changing maps
or are just taking a blow from hand flying.
My suggestion is forget the inverted system and the injection system. You
can do plenty of aerobatics that are positive g and make a removable section
for gyros if you plan on doing alot of virtical stuff. (rolls dont't bother
the gyros too much} The injection system complicates construction. My
hangar mate
is putting one on a new 4 and it really complicates construction. Sure it
can be done but its more work and it's already crowded under the cowl.....
regards:
Rusty Gossard
RV-4 N47rg Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MGGX07C(at)prodigy.com ( SCOTT GESELE) |
| Subject: | Re: Ski's & RV-4 |
What about bringing your boots with you and renting the ski's at the
slopes? Granted it will not be as romantic as pulling up in your RV
and taking the ski's out of your customized, underbelly ski-transport
device, but consider the expense ( time and dollars) that will be put
into the contraption. How many weekend ski trips will you actually
go on in a year where the RV will be used. Here in the North East,
the weather will have a serious effect on the number of times an RV
can be used during the winter months.
Just something to think about.
-Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com (Curtis R. Hinkley ) |
ED,
I sent this before but my Netcom, Netcruiser was acting up and I don't
think it made it.
Thank you for responding. We don't think the RV6A will be a great IFR
platform either, however in the East we have a lot of low weather which
the RV6A could get on top of and not leave you stuck somewhere for
several days. We are think of the RV6A as a two place Mooney, with the
capability of doing light aerobatics when solo. And the real reason
for not just buying a used Mooney is the fun of building the RV
together and it will be all new for less than half the cost of a new
Mooney. We also have two very good(active) EAA chapters with several
(about 10) RV's under construction so we think there will be plenty of
help close by if we get into trouble.
Curtis
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Cracks in elevator skin |
I just found a couple small (3/4") cracks in my top right elevator skin at
the aft end of the stiffeners (They are perpendicular to the stiffener).
That's why Van sez to put silicone in there now, I guess. Not yet sure how
I'll proceed - maybe stop drill and try to inject silicone with a long tube
on a caulking gun cartridge. Anybody out there had this happen? Any
suggestions? I really don't wanna reskin the elevator.
Incidently, I have about 145 hours on the plane. Oh, yeah - my
engine-mounted fuel pump died today, also (brand new Lyc O-320-D1A from Van).
Dana Breda
N138DB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | hovan(at)apple.com (John Hovan) |
>Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 14:24:44 -0800 (PST)
>From: Mortensen <leper(at)netcom.com>
>Subject: RV builder
>To: hovan(at)apple.com
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>
>Hi, My name is Peter B. Mortensen. I have been working on an RV-4 for
>almost 11 years. I have completed the empenage, wing and am well on my
>way on the fuselage. The fuselage is out of the jig and I am working on
>installing the innards. I have a run-out O-320-E3D engine, 150HP (low
>compression pistons). I am planning to rebuild the engine myself with
>help with my knowledgeable friends in the EAA. I live in Renton,
>Washington. I am an electronic engineer. I am currently planning to
>start my own business designing and manufacturing electronic instruments
>for RVs and other homebuilt aircraft.
>My RV-4 has had all parts alumipreped, alodined and epoxy primered. I
>plan to paint it canary yellow and its number is going to be N21PE. The
>P is for Peter and the E is for my wife's name Ethel since she has bucked
>most of the rivets. My e-mail address is n21pe(at)ix.netcom.com.
>Please add me to your list. Peter B. Mortensen.
>
>........................................................................
________________________________________________________________________________
What about those huge lightening holes we put
in the main ribs? I've always looked at them
thinking a pair of skis could slide in.
greg
Gregory W. Ratcliff
nz8r+@osu.edu
Columbus, Ohio ICBM
In the Air N1697X
On the Air NZ8R
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Can I Use 4 Washers in the Elevator ? |
On Sun, 17 Dec 1995, Scott Johnson wrote:
> The plans say it is permissible to use upto 3 washers between the control
> horm and the HS bearing. Unfortunately it looks as if I will need 4 on both
> sides.
Hmmmm. Didn't you also ask about moving the holes for the rod ends by
about 1/4 inch? And aren't four AN960-10 washers about 1/4-inch think?
I have a question for you: If you eliminate the washers between the HS
bearing and the control horn, do the holes for the rod ends now line up?
And does doing so also result in the elevator tip rib being 1/4-inch too
far inboard (interfering with the HS tip rib)?
If so, then what you REALLY need to do is to cut the end flange off the
elevator spar and rivet on a new one that extends 1/4-inch farther out.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Requested info re: the project (LONG) |
The group seems quiet today, so as a "new guy" to the group I thought I'd just
post an
overview of where I'm at as per the request of "the Majordomo"
Im building a 6A here in Pearland, just outside Houston, Tx. I started the project
in
April of '93 in Corpus Christi, about 200 miles South of here. Then I got transferred
to Houston this Summer. Fortunately the fuselage was just out of the jig, and on
the
gear so it wasn't as bad a move as it could have been. Drove the 200-odd miles
with
the wings in a cradle in the back of a pick-em-up truck, towing the rest of the
goodies on a "converted" catamaran trailer.....- sure did stop some cars and turn
some
heads!! (sliding canopy cowl and empennage were on so it actually did look like
a
plane.
Since then I've been completing the engine installation, installed a full panel,
and
generally caught up some of those bits we tend to leave till later...such as
installing lights and strobes in the tips, and sanding on the cowling...and sanding
on
the cowling...and sanding on the cowling... (how people build whole "airplanes"
with
this stuff I'll never know)
I'm now a member of Eaa chapter 12 Wow... an old one. Quite active with about 40
some
members, about 6 of who are building, or just starting to build RV's. I met a new
member last week who was wanting to build an Acrosport .... but I laid it on thick
and
I think he's now sent off for the Info pack to Vans. I guess with 7 locally we
may get
a RV builders group going - share tools & tips etc.
Back to the Plane..
as I said, its a 6a... I dont have ant Taildragger time, and living in Corpus,
the 2nd
windiest city in the US - flying from a 40 foot x 1500 ft grass strip, I didn't
really
want to get any, especially in the love of my life now under construction in the
garage. (don't tell my wife I said that PLS!)
equipment and reasons where appropriate...
6a - see above for reason
Slider - Texas is hot!!
Electric flaps - Im a big lad and the handle is a pain for the pilot end whoever
gets his elbow in their face... plus I met a guy who hurt
himself pretty bad on it when he landed short - (if it was a
tupperware plane he'd be a gonner - G-meter pegged and the gear
exited up thru the tanks! Both he and his old lady were hurt -
although not seriously and the RV is almost rebuilt now.
Manual flaps and trim - although I might retrofit the elect. trim later
Engine - 1956 vintage 0-320, (actually too old to have a suffix after the 0-320)150HP
with constant speed prop- both from an old moony M20 that the wings rotted off!
TT engine is 3000 hrs, 800 since major. After it had been sitting for a couple
of
years, I bought it (actually drove to Seattle from Corpus to pick it up but that's
another story) fitted it in the 6A, replaced the carb, rigged it out and it started
up
"first time" the other day with two shots of primer and one blade going through
-
suprised the S*** out of me, I was expecting to have to crank for a while -
Using the engine monitor from Grand rapids techmnology - Advanced AIS - seems great
-
cheap, does the business, and saves enough space that I could put a glovebox in
the
panel as well as full IFR instruments.
Only other notable is probobly the fact that it is "dual voltage" ... has a 28v
alternator to 2x 12volt recombinent gas(Panasonic) batteries in series (i.e two
busses). I took a center tap off betwen the 2 for my 12V stuff. - seems to work
....comments from any electrical gurus much appreciated !!
Reason for 24V - got a hell-of-deal on a full stack - dual navcoms, audio panel,
dual
indicators w/glide slopes etc for a grand.... any questions (and yes, they all
work
too!)
As for me, Im just another darned Limey import - from Lancashire in England , been
here 12 years now and love it... Before this I was in the Merchant marine for about
12
Years, got a Masters licence, got smart and came ashore. Been flying 3 years but
minimal hours as of yet ....too busy building....but thats fixing to change reeeeeal
soon ! - also, I'm planning to visit Mike Seager for some RV time in the next few
weeks to get back into it (Biennial is like,...history!)
Sorry to bore - I went on a bit y'all... - but its raining like a bugger outside,
and
I'm grounded so to speak - can't open the garage door even...sigh...an only a month
or
six to go...
Last word.. I'll be in Portland Or. on Business from the 5th to the 11th January...
I'd love to meet any of the Portland RV crowd. I'll be at the Holiday inn at the
Convention center.. Please let me know if you want to swap stories and tips over
a
refreshment or two, or whatever - you know how to reach me - and I'll even buy
the
first couple of rounds!
All the best for the holidays... Rob Lee, av8r(at)hic.net - 713-992-3916h
________________________________________________________________________________
Greg Ratcliff wrote:
>What about those huge lightening holes we put
>in the main ribs? I've always looked at them
>thinking a pair of skis could slide in.
Naaa... too easy, but I can't think it wouldn't work - guess most good Ideas are
real
obvious in hindsight !.
Should be Pretty close to the CG too... and if someone's got tip tanks, load for
a
couple of skis shouldn't be a problem... (yes I finally got my RVator yesterday
!!!),
Providing they are secured and couldn't foul the aileron linkages etc. I don't
see why
not....
Hmmm....Now let me see,....fishing rods, ...what else?
Regards, Rob Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Ayers <102337.2252(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracks in elevator skin |
>Dana Breda said;
>I just found a couple small (3/4") cracks in my top right elevator skin at
>the aft end of the stiffeners (They are perpendicular to the stiffener).
>(stuff deleted) Anybody out there had this happen? Any
>suggestions? I really don't wanna reskin the elevator.
>(stuff deleted)
I had the same type of cracks show up in my elevator at around 50-60 hrs.
(I fought a engine/prop vibration for the first 165 hrs, until a main bearing
failed.)
I stop drilled the two cracks with the smallest drill (#60, i think), and have
not seen
them move since then.
Jim Ayers
LOM RV-3 N47RV (371 hrs TT airframe)
(As seen in the December 1995 Sport Aviation, Pg. 14)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Ebneter <ebneter(at)inwave.com> |
I am a 41 year old System and Control Engineer working in Janesville, WI.
I am currently waiting to recieve my RV-6 preview plans. I am starting to
assemble some tools and such and will probably begin construction in the
spring once my workshop is ready. Being a control engineer (read PC
programmer most of the time) I am considering building an MS-DOS machine,
with small CRT or flat panel display, along with various inputs into the
plane. Unsure of specific the hardware yet though. I may get some (or post
some) ideas here. Looking forward to hearing from all of you.
I think I got your URL thru Hovan's page or possibly off the homebuilders
newsgroup. Not sure. Do you have any IRC schedules for RV builders?
Sporting an RV grin :)
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Ayers <102337.2252(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Fuel Tank |
>>Concerning sealing around the screws. With all the sealant and
>>gaskets, etc., has anyone had a problem with not having an electrical
>>connection between the base/flange of the fuel level sender and the
>> airframe?
>>Dick Steffens
>Been flying 3 years now, & haven't had any problems at all.
>Dana Breda
>N138DB
I had trouble with one of my senders not being grounded adequately. Just
add a terminal lug for a ground wire under one of the sender unit bolts bolts
and bring the ground wire inside the fuselage with the signal wire. Then, tie
the ground wire to the airframe somewhere convenient.
BTW, for a shock mounted instrument panel, don't forget to add an airframe
ground wire to the floating panel.
Jim Ayers
LOM RV-3 N47RV Waiting for a new (third time) airworthiness certificate. I made
another major alteration by installing an electric flight adjustable prop in
place
of my (standard) Warnke prop. (The tail wheel bounces at low pitch and full
throttle without the supercharger engaged. It really wants to move with just
the
115 hp.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Cracks in elevator skin |
>I just found a couple small (3/4") cracks in my top right elevator skin at
>the aft end of the stiffeners (They are perpendicular to the stiffener).
> That's why Van sez to put silicone in there now, I guess. Not yet sure how
>I'll proceed - maybe stop drill and try to inject silicone with a long tube
>on a caulking gun cartridge. Anybody out there had this happen? Any
>suggestions? I really don't wanna reskin the elevator.
>
>Incidently, I have about 145 hours on the plane. Oh, yeah - my
>engine-mounted fuel pump died today, also (brand new Lyc O-320-D1A from Van).
>
>
>Dana Breda
>N138DB
>
Dana, I've been thinking how to solve this problem when it happens to me.
I think the problem is elevators made according to the old plans. I beleive
they called for the stiffners to end 3/4" before the trailing edge radius.
The stiffners now extend farther aft and silicon is mentioned in the plans.
I have some creases aft of the stiffner angles on my elevators, but
no cracks yet. I thought maybe I woould try the following. Ideally, you
could place a dab of silicon at each silicon location. Don't think it would
be a good idea to have a lot of silicon in the trailing edge of the
elevators. I thought that I would get some plastic tubing that would fit
over a tube of caulk. The other end of the tubing would have a piece of
steel tubing stuck in it. On the left elevator, you would have to remove
the trim tab, possibly. The opening on the aft inboard ends of the
elevators might have to have the holes enlarged slightly. Feed the steel
tip in to the far stiffner. This could be then located with a stud finder
or magnet. Sqeeze some silicon at this location, then draw the tubing out
and use the magnet to find the next stiffner location and proceed until all
of the stiffners are done. I thought of flexable tube so that the rudder
would not have to be removed. This may not work and the rudder or elevators
might have to be removed. I doubt that the silicon would bulge anything
out, but if you were worried about this happeing, I guess you could figure
out some clamping arrangement. I think some people have used liquid foam
and filled the aft areas with foam. This might be a possibility, too. If
you try any of the above ideas, let us know how it turns out. Bob Skinner
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GJGP22B(at)prodigy.com (MR PAUL A ROSALES) |
| Subject: | Cracks in elevator skin |
> I just found a couple small (3/4") cracks in my top right elevator
skin at
> the aft end of the stiffeners (They are perpendicular to the
stiffener).
> That's why Van sez to put silicone in there now, I guess. Not yet
sure how
> I'll proceed - maybe stop drill and try to inject silicone with a
long tube
> on a caulking gun cartridge. Anybody out there had this happen?
Any
> suggestions? I really don't wanna reskin the elevator.
> Incidently, I have about 145 hours on the plane. Oh, yeah - my
> engine-mounted fuel pump died today, also (brand new Lyc O-320-D1A
from Van).
> Dana Breda
> N138DB
Dana:
No suggestions for after the fact but for those soon to be working on
elevators:
Our local EAA Tech Advisor and RV-6 builder/owner, Jack Hakes,
suggested adding four small
gussets between the upper and lower stiffeners. They connect the top
skin to the bottom skin
between the 3rd and 4th rivets from the trailing edge. The gussets
are placed between the two
end stiffeners and skip one stiffener from both ends toward the
middle. He has the 0.016 skins
with (I believe) several hundred hours on the airframe with no cracks.
I did the same with mine
in hopes that this may reduce or eliminate the chance of cracking.
Paul A. Rosales
N628PV
Lancaster, CA
(Starting Lt. Elev. to finish up the tail)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GJGP22B(at)prodigy.com (MR PAUL A ROSALES) |
| Subject: | Cracks in Elevator Skin |
> I just found a couple small (3/4") cracks in my top right elevator
skin at
> the aft end of the stiffeners (They are perpendicular to the
stiffener).
> That's why Van sez to put silicone in there now, I guess. Not yet
sure how
> I'll proceed - maybe stop drill and try to inject silicone with a
long tube
> on a caulking gun cartridge. Anybody out there had this happen?
Any
> suggestions? I really don't wanna reskin the elevator.
> Incidently, I have about 145 hours on the plane. Oh, yeah - my
> engine-mounted fuel pump died today, also (brand new Lyc O-320-D1A
from Van).
> Dana Breda
> N138DB
Dana:
No suggestions for after the fact but for those soon to be working on
elevators:
Our local EAA Tech Advisor and RV-6 builder/owner, Jack Hakes,
suggested adding four small
gussets between the upper and lower stiffeners. They connect the top
skin to the bottom skin
between the 3rd and 4th rivets from the trailing edge. After the
final bend is made, the gussets
are placed (and pop-riveted) between the two end stiffeners and skip
one stiffener from both
ends toward the middle. He has the 0.016 skins with (I believe)
several hundred hours on the
airframe with no cracks. I did the same with mine in hopes that this
may reduce or eliminate
the chance of cracking.
Paul A. Rosales
N628PV
Lancaster, CA
(Starting Lt. Elev. to finish up the tail)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | david_fried(at)smtpgwy.dehavilland.ca |
Any side area added aft of the wing increases the directional
stability of the aircraft. When the P-51 (sigh) went to the bubble
canopy, the reduction in fuselage side area was in part made up for by
the dorsal fin added at that time.
The fin is the primary device to provide directional stability. A
long slender fin (high aspect ratio, span/chord > 3) generates side
force for each degree of sideslip angle. Like a wing, there is an
angle at which it stalls and this limits the slip that can be
achieved. A stubby fin (RV type span/chord < 2) generates less
sideforce for each degree of sideslip but maintains it to a greater
angle. A strake (triangular span/chord << 1) generates even less for
each degree of sideslip but it develops a vortex on the suction
(leeward) side that maintains attached flow to very high sideslip
angles. A small strake added to the front of any fin will add it's
lift component to the total sideforce. The vortex will energize the
flow on the suction side of the main fin enabling it to maintain lift
to a greater sideslip angle.
At high sideslip angles the force required to deflect the rudder
reduces as the flow begins to separate. If it reduces far enough the
rudder may not return to centre (lock). This could be disconcerting.
A secondary effect of the vortex on the suction side of the fin is a
change in hinge moment on the rudder alleviating this problem
somewhat.
I don't know if the RV series needs a strake for either directional
stability or rudder hinge moments. Perhaps a builder who has added one
can comment on how well it works.
Happy Holidays
David Fried
DF-6 C-____
dfried(at)dehavilland.CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Smithy 3-in-1 Machine |
> >Does anyone have any experience with a Smithy 3-in-1 machine tool, the one
> >that's advertised in Sport Aviation? I'm considering buying one of these, but
> >I've never actually seen one in real life. I don't own any machine tools at
> >the moment.
> >
> >I'd like a lathe and small mill for other reasons, but would they be handy
> >during the construction of any RV-6, or not much help?
> >
> >Tedd McHenry
> >Edmontmon
> >(not started yet)
> >
>
> The Smith 3 in 1 is a great idea but you might want to check out another
> company. There is a company in Aberdeen, WA that sells the same type of
> device for cheaper. I don't have one but have talked to them. They SAY
> that the Smithy is a cheap copy of what they sell. Can't recall the name of
> the company but they advertise in Sport Aviation occasionally. If you're
> really interested (or anyone else) I'll find out the name and post it on the
> NET.
>
> Let me know what you want.
>
>
> John Ammeter
> ammeterj(at)ammeterj.seanet.com
> Seattle WA, USA
> RV-6 N16JA
> Flying 5 years
>
>
John:
Yes, please post the name of that other company. I'm not by any means
stuck on a particular brand, just looking for the best option over all.
Thanks,
Tedd McHenry
Edmonton, AB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
>Sorry Ed, but I must be one to disagree.
No problem, that's what we're here for... :)
>
>I have a 4 that is IFR equiped and flown IFR frequently. The key word is
>FREQUENTLY. Yea its sensitive, but you get used to it. The problem isn't
>the IFR part, it's the IFR and the inverted system that screws up the deal.
>I like to do aerobatics too. Aerobatics and gyros don't mix. Loops, split
>s,
>cubans,etc. tear hell out of your gyros. Ive spent alot of time with the
gyro
>companys trying to find a way to prevent the problem but there is no cheap
>fix.
That was part of my argument too, I just didn't go into enough detail. Hence
my suggestion to buy one "useful" airplane (172/182/Archer, etc) and one
"fun" airplane (Citabria or the like) No matter how much we hope, nobody has
ever (or doubtfully WILL ever) designed the "perfect" airplane that will do
everything just right.
However, I feel the RV's come awfully darn close...
-- Ed Bundy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
>Thank you for responding. We don't think the RV6A will be a great IFR
>platform either, however in the East we have a lot of low weather which
>the RV6A could get on top of and not leave you stuck somewhere for
>several days. We are think of the RV6A as a two place Mooney, with the
>capability of doing light aerobatics when solo. And the real reason
>for not just buying a used Mooney is the fun of building the RV
>together and it will be all new for less than half the cost of a new
>Mooney. We also have two very good(active) EAA chapters with several
>(about 10) RV's under construction so we think there will be plenty of
>help close by if we get into trouble.
Well those sound like some great reasons. Especially since you are
interested in the building part. I'm have fun building mine, but if the cost
were the same I'd jump on a factory-built one in a heartbeat. In Van's promo
video they state: "Depending on your outlook, you either HAVE to build it, or
you GET to build it. I'm leaning toward "have" to myself...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ski's & RVs - how many times? |
Well here in the west VFR access to ski country airports far exceeds back in
New England. Typically here, it dumps like hell for two days, then stays
sunny for 2 weeks, dumps - stays sunny, dumps - sunny; you get the picture.
Soooo, Since most areas in Colorado open in mid November and others here and
in Canada often make it through June (last year A-Basin closed on august 9)
you can have a pretty reasonable season if your willing to travel. And then
for the completely compulsive die-hards: Timberline, Oregon made it past
Labor Day. There is always year round non-lift glacier skiing in Alaska, and
of course prime season waist deep powder in Chile and Argentina in August.
If you have any more questions about the worthiness of a ski sized belly pod
just ask your wife how much junk she intends to take over to mother's for the
family Christmas party. (and then double it on the day she actually starts to
pack).
And, Hey, If I wanted to limit my skiing to northern New Jersey I would have
bought a Cessna!
So, is an easily removable baggage pod a worthy accessory? I still think so.
Andy Gold
RV-6A (get'in closer)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
| Subject: | gyros&aerobatics |
Stan:
I think my response to your earlier question was lost in cyberspace.
Anyway I'll try again. The way it has been explained to me is that the gyros
available to general aviation have stops built in them. When the gyro hits
the stop and gyroscopic force continues to be applied the damage begins.
There are no stops in the horizon in the roll axis so they tend to last
longer. The horizon has a stop at about 70 degrees up or down so they tumble
off the stops in vertical conditions.
All directional gyros are caged. Thats how you adjust them. The g.a.
attitude indicators that cage i.e. the Sigma ek are built to "fast erect"
the horizon after an upset or if the gyro hasn't wound down and you restart.
They dont prevent damage. To prevent damage you would need to lock the gyro
in a caged condition so it doesn't bang around and not apply vacuum. Just
unpluging the vacuum line does not work. The gyro would flop around and
that won't get it done.
Military gyros are big bucks and are built not to tumble.(Don't know about WW2
vintage equipment.)
Competition aerobatic aircraft like the Extra and Sukhoi can be ordered with
gyro subpanels that can be removed. I can get mine out fairly quickly and after
you buy the second set you will figure out a way too.
Hope this helps
Rusty Gossard
RV-4 N47RG Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JPallist(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Breaking Edges on spar reinforcements. |
I used a carbide rounding-over bit to cut the edges of the tapered
reinforcement strips to fit the inside curvature of the horiz.stab. spar
channel. Worked well... but required extreme caution to avoid
"rounding-over" my fingers... or worse. I built up a jig to securely fasten
the strips to my drill press table (and a long support table) but at the same
time to allow them to slide past the bit (rubber washers, wood clamps, etc).
Yes, I used my drill press, set on max. rpm, rather than a router table (did
not have one at the time... and necessity is the mother of invention).
Always pushed (or pulled) the strip into the cutting action (to prevent it
grabbing and pulling the strip out of my hands), used lots of cutting oil,
eye protection, a wooden "pusher" to keep my fingers away from the bit, etc.
Took a significant amount of work to come up with safe jigging method...
Produced beautiful results. For the horiz.stab. flange strips, I also had to
turn the bearing assembly on the bit upside down, in order to get enough
depth so that the bearing surface would contact the flange strip. Don't know
about rounding over spar strips for the wing (is it necessary?)... I bought
the Phlogiston spars. In summary, this is something that can be done, but it
is also something I wound not recommend for the average builder, out of
concerns for safety...I also doubt if the bit manufacturer would recommend
cutting aluminium. Any other thoughts/recommendations from others?
Cheers, and Merry Christmas,
John Pallister (RV6 & MagKits)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JPallist(at)aol.com |
Glad to see someone else is thinking about a pc-based LED panel "on the
panel". Just started laying out the instruments on my RV6 panel today... and
decided to keep room open for a VGA capable active matrix color LED display.
Had in mind buying moving map software and serial input GPS (see ad in this
month's Sport Aviation). Then figured I would disassemble a notebook PC, and
mount the LED panel on the RV panel. However, I am concerned about glare &
visibility in bright light. I have an IBM thinkpad with removable back to
allow use of the display panel as an overhead projector panel... works
well... and suggests that I might be able to put together a brighter
backlight for the RV panel (perhaps, a row of miniture flourescent tubes (as
used in battery powered camping lanterns?)). Any thoughts?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WStucklen(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Strobe Source |
>Someone asked if there was a cheaper strobe than the Whelen. I have seen an
>ad for a 'personal' strobe that you would wear on your belt when changing
>your tire or walking on a dark street. It is sold in auto supply stores and
>sells for about $25-30. The brand name is Lightman and they have a number
>you can call 1-800-364-6263. I haven't seen it, myself, but a friend who
>is building an RV-6 has bought one and plans to use it for the vertical
stab.
This strobe may not meet the flash energy requirements specified in the
FAR's.
Fred Stucklen N925RV RV-6A
wstucklen(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Shea <todd(at)nuvo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ski's & RV-4 |
Geeez!! :), I guess I wasnt specific enough. I dont want to mount
alpine/x-country skis IN the RV-4 I want to mount ski's (i.e. federal
2000's) ON the RV-4. You know like take the wheels off and replace them
with airplane ski's. Up here in Canada the water gets hard this time of
year and the grass turns white. I'd like to use the snow and ice as a
landing strip, hence the need to mount ski's ON the RV-4.
Sorry for any confusion this may have caused.
Todd Shea
todd(at)nuvo.com
> Hi I am new to this group, trying to sell my Cub so I can get an RV-4 kit.
> Has anyone out there had any experience with mounting ski's on an RV-4? Is
> is possible? What size of ski's would you use (assume 2000's)? where would
> you attach the fittings for the cables and bungees? etc.etc.etc.
>
>What about bringing your boots with you and renting the ski's at the
>slopes? Granted it will not be as romantic as pulling up in your RV
>and taking the ski's out of your customized, underbelly ski-transport
>device, but consider the expense ( time and dollars) that will be put
>into the contraption. How many weekend ski trips will you actually
>go on in a year where the RV will be used. Here in the North East,
>the weather will have a serious effect on the number of times an RV
>can be used during the winter months.
>Just something to think about.
>
>-Scott
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV Fuel Tank |
>>>Concerning sealing around the screws. With all the sealant and
>>>gaskets, etc., has anyone had a problem with not having an electrical
>>>connection between the base/flange of the fuel level sender and the
>>> airframe?
>>>Dick Steffens
>>Been flying 3 years now, & haven't had any problems at all.
>>Dana Breda
>>N138DB
>I had trouble with one of my senders not being grounded adequately. Just
>add a terminal lug for a ground wire under one of the sender unit bolts bolts
>and bring the ground wire inside the fuselage with the signal wire. Then, tie
>the ground wire to the airframe somewhere convenient.
>BTW, for a shock mounted instrument panel, don't forget to add an airframe
>ground wire to the floating panel.
>
>Jim Ayers
>LOM RV-3 N47RV Waiting for a new (third time) airworthiness certificate. I
made
>another major alteration by installing an electric flight adjustable prop in
>place
>of my (standard) Warnke prop. (The tail wheel bounces at low pitch and full
>throttle without the supercharger engaged. It really wants to move with just
>the
>115 hp.)
>
>Jim, Tell us about your prop: make, configurtion, composition, cost &
impressions.
Bob Skinner RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dierks(at)austin.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Re: Breaking Edges on spar reinforcements. (fwd) |
You can always use the Vixen file.
That is what I used on my HS spar strips.
It takes some "elbow grease" and time but it works.
I used the prebuilt spar so did not have to do all the main spar strips.
>
> I used a carbide rounding-over bit to cut the edges of the tapered
> reinforcement strips to fit the inside curvature of the horiz.stab. spar
> channel. Worked well... but required extreme caution to avoid
> "rounding-over" my fingers... or worse. I built up a jig to securely fasten
> the strips to my drill press table (and a long support table) but at the same
> time to allow them to slide past the bit (rubber washers, wood clamps, etc).
> Yes, I used my drill press, set on max. rpm, rather than a router table (did
> not have one at the time... and necessity is the mother of invention).
> Always pushed (or pulled) the strip into the cutting action (to prevent it
> grabbing and pulling the strip out of my hands), used lots of cutting oil,
> eye protection, a wooden "pusher" to keep my fingers away from the bit, etc.
> Took a significant amount of work to come up with safe jigging method...
> Produced beautiful results. For the horiz.stab. flange strips, I also had to
> turn the bearing assembly on the bit upside down, in order to get enough
> depth so that the bearing surface would contact the flange strip. Don't know
> about rounding over spar strips for the wing (is it necessary?)... I bought
> the Phlogiston spars. In summary, this is something that can be done, but it
> is also something I wound not recommend for the average builder, out of
> concerns for safety...I also doubt if the bit manufacturer would recommend
> cutting aluminium. Any other thoughts/recommendations from others?
>
> Cheers, and Merry Christmas,
> John Pallister (RV6 & MagKits)
>
Herman Dierks, Dept. E54S, AWSD Austin, Texas
mail: dierks(at)austin.ibm.com VM: DIERKS at AUSVM6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Strobe Source |
I'm sure there are cheaper strobes, but make sure before you install it
that it has the required minimum 400 effective candles, if you want to
be certified for night flying.
Also I would be careful about making sure you know what you're doing
before using a homebrew strobe power supply. Granted that they're
simple and Whelen's are way too expensive. But I keep thinking about a
friend (in a Piper Arrow) whose power supply failed and burned up and
filled the cabin with smoke and he had to declare an emergency and land
at Portland International while they diverted all other traffic,
meaning the airliners had to circle around waiting for him to get
sorted out. You can bet he had some paperwork to fill out after that!
Admittedly it was a certified power supply in this instance, but still
it shows that the things can fail with possibly disastrous
consequences, so just be careful about it.
Randall Henderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Breaking Edges on spar reinforcements. |
> From owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com Mon Dec 18 10:42:09 1995
> X-Deleted-Errors-To: bounces(at)matronics.com
> From: aol.com!JPallist(at)matronics.com
> Date: Mon, 18 Dec 1995 12:22:36 -0500
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Breaking Edges on spar reinforcements.
> Sender: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Reply-To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Content-Length: 1545
>
> I used a carbide rounding-over bit to cut the edges of the tapered
> used lots of cutting oil,
>
> Cheers, and Merry Christmas,
> John Pallister (RV6 & MagKits)
>
Cutting oil (or any coolant) should not be used with carbide tools,
unless you can flood the tool. Intermittant coolant supply will cause
stress fractures in the carbide.
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sburch(at)Infi.Net (stan burchett) |
| Subject: | Re: gyros&aerobatics |
>Stan:
>I think my response to your earlier question was lost in cyberspace.
>
>Anyway I'll try again. The way it has been explained to me is that the gyros
>available to general aviation have stops built in them. When the gyro hits
>the stop and gyroscopic force continues to be applied the damage begins.
>There are no stops in the horizon in the roll axis so they tend to last
>longer. The horizon has a stop at about 70 degrees up or down so they tumble
>off the stops in vertical conditions.
>
>All directional gyros are caged. Thats how you adjust them. The g.a.
>attitude indicators that cage i.e. the Sigma ek are built to "fast erect"
>the horizon after an upset or if the gyro hasn't wound down and you restart.
>They dont prevent damage. To prevent damage you would need to lock the gyro
>in a caged condition so it doesn't bang around and not apply vacuum. Just
>unpluging the vacuum line does not work. The gyro would flop around and
>that won't get it done.
>
>Military gyros are big bucks and are built not to tumble.(Don't know about WW2
>vintage equipment.)
>
>Competition aerobatic aircraft like the Extra and Sukhoi can be ordered with
>gyro subpanels that can be removed. I can get mine out fairly quickly and
>after
>you buy the second set you will figure out a way too.
>
>Hope this helps
>Rusty Gossard
>RV-4 N47RG Flying
Thanks Rusty -- BOTH your mailings went through. I've printed them out to
guide the agonizing decision making process.
We're on our own because the market just isn't large enough for the
instrument companys to get interested in a solution.
Have a good flight! Stan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carol R. de Solla" <de_solla_carol(at)jpmorgan.com> |
| Subject: | Snigger - Santa Claus's checkout! |
[This note has been sent to the following InterNet address(es):
rv-list @ matronics.com]
Santa Claus, like all pilots, gets regular visits from the FAA, and it was
shortly before Christmas when the FAA examiner arrived.
In preparation, Santa had the elves wash the sled and bathe all the reindeer.
Santa got his logbook out and made sure all his paperwork was in order.
The examiner walked slowly around the sled. He checked the reindeer harnesses,
the landing gear, and Rudolf's nose. He painstakingly reviewed Santa's weight
and balance calculations for the sled's enormous payload.
Finally, they were ready for the checkride. Santa got in and fastened his
seatbelt and shoulder harness and checked the compass. Then the examiner
hopped in carrying, to Santa's surprise, a shotgun.
"What's that for?" asked Santa incredulously.
The examiner winked and said, "I'm not supposed to tell you this, but you're
gonna lose an engine on takeoff".
Happy Holidays everyone!
Carol de Solla and David Coleman, RV6, London, UK
(Just started the wings, and the tail's a beauty)
de_solla_carol(at)jpmorgan.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gil(at)rassp.hac.com (Gil Alexander) |
| Subject: | Cockpit computers |
RV-list computer guys,
Panel-mounted computers were one of the "hot things" at Oshkosh
this year (way behind the Garmin 90 GPS though!). I picked up two data
sheets, and there may have been one or two more folks also offering "PCs
for the cockpit".
Two companies for you to call:-
Avidyne - Flight Computer System. 1-800-AVIDYNE or 617-674-9300
Panel mount with 5 inch (320x234 pixels) diag. Color Active-Matrix LCD
Silvaire - Cockpit PC. 818-969-0347 slvaire(at)ibm.net (all caps? in data sheet)
Panel mount with 5.6 inch (320x240 pixels) or 6.8 inch (640x480 pixels)
diag. Color Active-Matrix LCD
Both companies have multiple processor, disk and RAM options, and
quite readable displays. It seemed to me that this was a case of "build
it, and the software will come", since no software seemed to be available,
just 'vaporware' for pretty demos.
Let us all know what you find, perhaps you can write some RV
specific s/w for us all .. :^) .......
Gil Alexander, #20701, RV6A ... canopy frame
gil(at)rassp.hac.com
>Glad to see someone else is thinking about a pc-based LED panel "on the
>panel". Just started laying out the instruments on my RV6 panel today... and
>decided to keep room open for a VGA capable active matrix color LED display.
> Had in mind buying moving map software and serial input GPS (see ad in this
>month's Sport Aviation). Then figured I would disassemble a notebook PC, and
>mount the LED panel on the RV panel. However, I am concerned about glare &
>visibility in bright light. I have an IBM thinkpad with removable back to
>allow use of the display panel as an overhead projector panel... works
>well... and suggests that I might be able to put together a brighter
>backlight for the RV panel (perhaps, a row of miniture flourescent tubes (as
>used in battery powered camping lanterns?)). Any thoughts?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Cracks in elevator skin |
A local builder split his elevator at the trailing edge and
riveted in an aluminum "bead" the full height. Not a great
solution but his elevator was cracking most of the way down,
and it worked.
----O <--- aluminum "bead"
If it was me, I'd stop drill unless it got too bad, in which
case I'd just make another one.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
Greg Ratcliff wrote:
>What about those huge lightening holes we put
>in the main ribs? I've always looked at them
>thinking a pair of skis could slide in.
This has been discussed before. Most bindings would be too big to fit
thru the holes. But more importantly, You have a length limit at the
aileron bellcrank rib, which is around 48" in. Maybe you could fit
your kids skiis in there, but that's about it.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RELOSVCS!WESTREG!CGRAHAM(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Graham, Colin) |
Default-Options: /RECEIPT
This is just a test to see if I can get through to you from my e-mail
system.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dierks(at)austin.ibm.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Engine Source (fwd) |
I would use caution buying from these folks.
I talked to Don several yrs ago and most of the engines he sells
homebuilders (for experimentals) have non-yellow taged parts in them.
He said this was to reduce his costs as the shops charge more for
work that is yellow tagged (due to the extra liability).
My concern is that if it is not yellow tagged, they anyone can repair it
in their garage just like you can.
I would just be cautious that they are not pawning off stuff on homebuilders
that would not be legal for certified aircraft.
To answer your question, I also saw the same phone number for Don George
and AIR TEC. I think he may be handling the homebuilt engine business
under one name and certified parts under the other.
Herman
> From root Fri Dec 15 12:42:39 1995
> Errors-To: bounces(at)matronics.com
> From: aol.com!WStucklen(at)matronics.com
> Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 12:02:25 -0500
> Message-Id: <951215120223_73612539(at)emout06.mail.aol.com>
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Lycoming Engine Source
>
> >Don George Custom Lycoming Engines shop phone number is (407) 422-0188. His
> >address is 1339 West Washington Street, Orlando, Florida 32805. When I
> >bought my engine, the base price for an O-320 was $8950. That may have
> >increased in the past few years since I bought mine. I had all of the
> >special accessories drop shipped to Don and he gave me credit for the things
> >that come on the engine that I didn't need, like the carb and starter. Hope
> >this helps.
> >
> >Jim Cone
> >RV-6A working on finishing kit.
> >
> >
>
> Isn't this the same address as AIR-TEC INC. ? And as I remember it it was
> operated by Dick Waters. Although the tel # is not the same.
>
> Does anybody know anything about AIR-TEC? (Tel # 407-839-4746)
>
> Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
> wstucklen(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Ski's & RVs - how many times? |
[snip]
> So, is an easily removable baggage pod a worthy accessory? I still think so.
>
> Andy Gold
Yeah but I like the drainpipe with a spinner on it. Imagine the look on
people's faces as they watched, from, say, Downtown Washington DC, as a
small fast airplane flew overhead with a long, white, pointed
cylindrical object suspended from the belly.... :-)
Randall Henderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
I thought that the original question asked about skis and RVs was about
skis _on_ RVs--that is, about ski-flying with an RV. This talk about skis
_in_ RVs is very interesting, but does anyone have experience with putting
skis _on_ RVs?
I've never flown anything other than a Twin Otter on skis. Anyone out
there have any general advice or sources of information about ski-flying
light planes?
Tedd McHenry
Edmonton, AB
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mgamble(at)chiba.netxn.com (Michael Gamble) |
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit computers |
>RV-list computer guys,
> Panel-mounted computers were one of the "hot things" at Oshkosh
>this year (way behind the Garmin 90 GPS though!). I picked up two data
>sheets, and there may have been one or two more folks also offering "PCs
>for the cockpit".
>
>
>Two companies for you to call:-
>
>Avidyne - Flight Computer System. 1-800-AVIDYNE or 617-674-9300
>
>Panel mount with 5 inch (320x234 pixels) diag. Color Active-Matrix LCD
>
>
>Silvaire - Cockpit PC. 818-969-0347 slvaire(at)ibm.net (all caps? in data
sheet)
>
>Panel mount with 5.6 inch (320x240 pixels) or 6.8 inch (640x480 pixels)
>diag. Color Active-Matrix LCD
>
>
>
> Both companies have multiple processor, disk and RAM options, and
>quite readable displays. It seemed to me that this was a case of "build
>it, and the software will come", since no software seemed to be available,
>just 'vaporware' for pretty demos.
>
> Let us all know what you find, perhaps you can write some RV
>specific s/w for us all .. :^) .......
**** Hummmmmmm ***
Mick
>
>
>Gil Alexander, #20701, RV6A ... canopy frame
>gil(at)rassp.hac.com
>
>
>
>>Glad to see someone else is thinking about a pc-based LED panel "on the
>>panel". Just started laying out the instruments on my RV6 panel today... and
>>decided to keep room open for a VGA capable active matrix color LED display.
>> Had in mind buying moving map software and serial input GPS (see ad in this
>>month's Sport Aviation). Then figured I would disassemble a notebook PC, and
>>mount the LED panel on the RV panel. However, I am concerned about glare &
>>visibility in bright light. I have an IBM thinkpad with removable back to
>>allow use of the display panel as an overhead projector panel... works
>>well... and suggests that I might be able to put together a brighter
>>backlight for the RV panel (perhaps, a row of miniture flourescent tubes (as
>>used in battery powered camping lanterns?)). Any thoughts?
>
>
>
>
_____________________________________________________________
|| Michael C. Gamble Fax: (805) 328-3860 ||
|| Happy Troll Computing Phone: (805) 328-3840 ||
|| 5329 Office Center Court Email: mgamble(at)chiba.netxn.com ||
|| Suite 200 ||
|| Bakersfield, CA 93309 ||
-------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternate Strobe Source |
I recall an article in Sport Aviation some months ago about aviation strobes
being used on school buses and how one might look in salvage yards to pick up
one inexpensively. I know they use them on school buses around here, but I'm
not anywhere near the point where I have to worry about strobes. Not at home,
so I can't tell you which issue of Sport Aviation contained the article.
Jay Jenkins
E-mail - jaythe(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cracks in elevator skin |
I just bought "14 Years of RV-ator" and there are several articles about
elevator skin cracks. Seems that this is not an unusual problem. E-mail me
if you would like the specifics on published fixes.
Jay Jenkins
E-mail - jaythe(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | crazer(at)midwest.net (Chester Razer) |
| Subject: | Aileron Question & Proseal |
Began working on left aileron. Am using Vans prepunched skins. Aileron
stiffners came pre-trimmed and pre-punched. All they needed was a very
slight straightening with fluting pliers and clean up. Stiffners came 9
1/8" instead of the 8 1/2" shown on page 16 of the plans. This is my first
experience with something in the kit that was out of spec. Additional 5/8"
stiffner length puts aft end of stiffner VERY close to trailing edge of
aileron. I plan to cut off aft end of each stiffner so length is as
specified on drawing 16 (8 1/2") unless someone has information regarding
this situation.
Proseal: Doug Weiler posted this message earlier and the info was good:
1/4 teaspoon black stuff to 1 tablespoon white stuff is a good mix. I'm
using a couple plastic measuring spoons and after use simply seal them both
up in a jar a place in refrigerator. Don't even have to clean them up.
Other wing tips: 1 1/2 - 2 tablespoons proseal mix will do one tank rib
very well and have enough left over to smear over rivet shop heads. I
think Dave Barnhart published this info in an earlier posting. 3
tablespoons mix is adequate to do tank baffle with rib flanges. I have not
had a problem with the mix setting up too soon. Seems like the secret to
working with the stuff is to clean up any mess IMMEDIATELY, it seems to get
on everything so staying ahead of the mess is the best medicine.
Chet in Sparta, IL
Chet Razer
crazer(at)midwest.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Brown <jmbrown(at)aimnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flat Panel Displays |
Couple of things to keep in mind!
Heat!!! Don't forget that Nav/Com stuff gets hot, Displays don't always seem to
like the heat. You also might need to worry anbbout UV damage less the have
a hangar , etc.
Me NEC has a detachable display and it doesn't like cables longer than about 2
feet
shielded or un shielded.
With the RV, you might be able to mount the panel lower under the main panel
towards the floor.
Just a couple of ideas.
PS: I would like to mount the computer part under the seat for heat and space
issues.
-------sig cut here-------
jmbrown(at)aimnet.com PP-ASEL
jmbrown(at)BayNetworks.com
Building an RV-6 #23568 N610JB "The Golden BeeBee"
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Todd Shea <todd(at)nuvo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ski's & RV-4 |
Geeez!! :), I guess I wasnt specific enough. I dont want to mount
alpine/x-country skis IN the RV-4 I want to mount ski's (i.e. federal
2000's) ON the RV-4. You know like take the wheels off and replace them
with airplane ski's. Up here in Canada the water gets hard this time of
year and the grass turns white. I'd like to use the snow and ice as a
landing strip, hence the need to mount ski's ON the RV-4.
Sorry for any confusion this may have caused.
Todd Shea
todd(at)nuvo.com
> Hi I am new to this group, trying to sell my Cub so I can get an RV-4 kit.
> Has anyone out there had any experience with mounting ski's on an RV-4? Is
> is possible? What size of ski's would you use (assume 2000's)? where would
> you attach the fittings for the cables and bungees? etc.etc.etc.
>
>What about bringing your boots with you and renting the ski's at the
>slopes? Granted it will not be as romantic as pulling up in your RV
>and taking the ski's out of your customized, underbelly ski-transport
>device, but consider the expense ( time and dollars) that will be put
>into the contraption. How many weekend ski trips will you actually
>go on in a year where the RV will be used. Here in the North East,
>the weather will have a serious effect on the number of times an RV
>can be used during the winter months.
>Just something to think about.
>
>-Scott
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Snigger - Santa Claus's checkout! |
> Finally, they were ready for the checkride. Santa got in and fastened his
> seatbelt and shoulder harness and checked the compass.
I have a sneaking suspicion that the compass pointed south.
Maybe someone could come up with a caged compass for polar travel?
Happy holidays,
dk
PS I still believe Santa lives at the magnetic north pole,
not the true one. That's why I could never see Rudolf
when I looked outside as a kid. Now I think the problem is
my vision. Maybe his isn't up to FAA strobe standards???
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Don Karl karl@dg-rtp.dg.com (919)248-5915
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Curt Reimer <Curt_Reimer(at)MBnet.MB.CA> |
| Subject: | Re: Breaking Edges on spar reinforcements. (fwd) |
On Mon, 18 Dec 1995 dierks(at)austin.ibm.com wrote:
> You can always use the Vixen file.
> That is what I used on my HS spar strips.
> It takes some "elbow grease" and time but it works.
> I used the prebuilt spar so did not have to do all the main spar strips.
The main spar flanges come already rounded over, or at least mine did.
Looks like they were done on a mill of some kind. Not much cleanup was
required.
Curt Reimer
skinning 2nd wing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Curt Reimer <Curt_Reimer(at)MBnet.MB.CA> |
| Subject: | Re: Ski's & RVs - how many times? |
On Mon, 18 Dec 1995, Randall Henderson wrote:
> [snip]
> > So, is an easily removable baggage pod a worthy accessory? I still think so.
> >
> > Andy Gold
>
> Yeah but I like the drainpipe with a spinner on it. Imagine the look on
> people's faces as they watched, from, say, Downtown Washington DC, as a
> small fast airplane flew overhead with a long, white, pointed
> cylindrical object suspended from the belly.... :-)
And maybe add some tail fins to the cylinder and paint Iraqui markings on
the aircraft. And, of course, turn off your radio. Think they'd shoot
first and ask questions later?
Curt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
>Glad to see someone else is thinking about a pc-based LED panel "on the
>panel". Just started laying out the instruments on my RV6 panel today... and
>decided to keep room open for a VGA capable active matrix color LED display.
> Had in mind buying moving map software and serial input GPS (see ad in this
>month's Sport Aviation). Then figured I would disassemble a notebook PC, and
>mount the LED panel on the RV panel. However, I am concerned about glare &
>visibility in bright light. I have an IBM thinkpad with removable back to
>allow use of the display panel as an overhead projector panel... works
>well... and suggests that I might be able to put together a brighter
>backlight for the RV panel (perhaps, a row of miniture flourescent tubes (as
>used in battery powered camping lanterns?)). Any thoughts?
>
Sounds interesting. I do have some thoughts on panels and
reflections. I find on my RV-6 that the LCD displays are much better that
the flourescent display on my ARNAV loran or the TKM comm radio. I intend
to use all LCD displays on the RV-6A I'm building now. Bob Skinner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Will Outlaw" <outlaw(at)startribune.com> |
De-lurking for a moment.
There was a neat article in Kitplanes a few months back about some
guy who built a Lancair with a couple of CRT screens on the panel. I
believe they were made by Terra. He also built an engine monitoring
system with some old 386 parts that sounded interesting.
My gut tells me hacking apart a notebook for the screen, getting the
thing out without breaking it, building a mount that'll absorb the
shock and keep the thing in one piece, wiring it back together again
and having it actually work day in, day out and in any weather and
any lighting is a pretty dicey prospect.
Having said that, I'll admit that I've had the exact same thought.
I think another (and ultimately less-expensive) way to go would be to buy an off-the-shelf
CRT,
perhaps a small color unit that's designed for a portable television,
install it in the panel and use the notebook pc to drive the display.
That way, you can yank the notebook to add software, play DOOM,
compose e-mail for the RV-list, etc...
All that being said, I'm pretty sure I'll wind up leaving the moving
maps and glass cockpits for the airline drivers up in the flight
levels and just keep looking out the window and thinking simple
thoughts.
Will Outlaw (returning to lurk mode)
"Pay off the car, pay off the credit cards, start building an RV"
> From: aol.com!JPallist(at)matronics.com
> Date: Mon, 18 Dec 1995 12:38:34 -0500
> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Hello
> Reply-to: rv-list(at)matronics.com
> Glad to see someone else is thinking about a pc-based LED panel "on the
> panel". Just started laying out the instruments on my RV6 panel today... and
> decided to keep room open for a VGA capable active matrix color LED display.
> Had in mind buying moving map software and serial input GPS (see ad in this
> month's Sport Aviation). Then figured I would disassemble a notebook PC, and
> mount the LED panel on the RV panel. However, I am concerned about glare &
> visibility in bright light. I have an IBM thinkpad with removable back to
> allow use of the display panel as an overhead projector panel... works
> well... and suggests that I might be able to put together a brighter
> backlight for the RV panel (perhaps, a row of miniture flourescent tubes (as
> used in battery powered camping lanterns?)). Any thoughts?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)ammeterj.seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Smithy 3-in-1 Machine |
>> >Does anyone have any experience with a Smithy 3-in-1 machine tool, the one
>> >that's advertised in Sport Aviation? I'm considering buying one of
these, but
>> >I've never actually seen one in real life. I don't own any machine
tools at
>> >the moment.
>> >
>>
>>
>
>Yes, please post the name of that other company. I'm not by any means
>stuck on a particular brand, just looking for the best option over all.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tedd McHenry
>Edmonton, AB
>
The company is Shoptask, P.O. Box 186, Aberdeen WA 98520, 1-800-343-5775.
They advertise in Kitplanes, found their ad in the October '95 issue on page
94. I called them today and asked them to send me a copy of their catalog.
They have a picture in the ad of a device that looks like it would do
everything except mix your Pro-Seal for you. The woman on the phone said
they have a 45 day delivery and you could pick up the machine in Fife, WA.
That's not much help for you but MUCH help for me. Fife is only 30 miles
south of me on Interstate 5.
When the catalog comes I'll look it over and let you know what they have. I
have wanted one for some time now; this may be the nudge I need to get it.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)ammeterj.seanet.com
Seattle WA, USA
RV-6 N16JA
Flying 5 years
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denton D. Harjehausen" <103331.27(at)compuserve.com> |
I'm new on the net, a first timer. I got this address out of the RVator, so I
thought I try it to see what happens.
Denny 103331,27(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff Carpenter <70633.355(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re,cracked elevator skins. |
Dana, just saw your message about the cracked elevator skins. Don't know exactly
when mine started but I remember the original feeling"five years building and
already I got to start building replacement parts!!" Mine started both in the
elevators and rudder. I kept a constant watch on each crack as it developed
hoping the problem was only a paint flaw(ha ha!) but knowing the final solution
would be a re-skin job.Finally one day I got the ole drill out with the smallest
bit possible per crack and stop drilled them all.A couple needed stop drilling
after re-cracking.The pressure has now been relieved and the tail is happy.
Cracks have stopped and who can see the stop drill holes while I'm going by at
200MPH!! Will re-skin after I stop having fun! 1150hrs so far!
2 reasons for cracks as I see it;(1) stiffeners are too close to the edge,sounds
like that problem is fixed now on newer birds (2) trying to SMOKE Van's brother
Jerry!!! never did really get him, but I burned a hole through the cowl
trying!!(5 g's sustained!!)
________________________________________________________________________________
I was thinking of the LCD vga thing too, primarily with the thought of the "flite-Map
software in mind. I searched long and hard for a small vga - either LCD or CRT
- no luck
unless I wanted to pay $1100 for a Sharp LCD monitor. - and that was 5" I think.
I
wanted about 4" diagonal to fit where a 3 1/8 instrument was to be (I went off
the
appollo 360)
Went to look at small TV's. Of course if you use a TV you would need a signal convertor
to use it with a Laptop (wouldnt you?) but you can get these for around $100.00.
-I got
one for doing presentations at work. Trouble is, I think all these units trim off
the
top and bottom lines - of course just where the "Emergency" icon is on the FliteMap
screen - rats...
Still It is the way of the future...- no gyro instruments ...just a nice (read
cheap)
..LCD display - switchable to GPS moving map, W & B calcs ... fuel & engine
optimizer...etc.
Be here before U know it.
Rob Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Postmaster" <POSTMSTR(at)ABSSW.REMNET.AB.COM> |
| Subject: | DISTRIBUTION STATUS |
WORLD.RVLIST DISTRIBUTION STATUS INFORMATION 12/18/95
0:47:35
=======================================================================
DISTRIBUTION ID: WORLD.RVLIST.3886
SUBJECT : Re: RV-List: Snigger - Santa Claus.s checkou
DATE SENT : 12/18/95 TIME SENT: 19:03:00
=======================================================================
THE STATUS OF THE ATTEMPTED DELIVERY ON YOUR MAIL IS:
SNADS STATUS : 0006
EXPLANATION : SNADS PERMANENT SERVER ERROR
=======================================================================
RECIPIENT : AOPARI.NMARSHAL
LAST NAME :
FIRST NAME :
MIDDLE INITIAL :
NATIVE NAME :
COUNTRY :
ADMD :
PRMD :
ORGANIZATION :
ORG UNIT 1 :
ORG UNIT 2 :
ORG UNIT 3 :
ORG UNIT 4 :
DDA :
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV Fuel Tank - senders |
The recent discussions on sealing the fuel tank plate nut plates and screws reminded
me
of a tip for the fuel senders.
Like the man says to do, I drew out a picture with angles and dimensions, cut the
wires
to the floats, put on the floats - now how to check them out ?
I found that if I tied two thin cords (fishing line) to the wire at the float end,
one
could be routed through to the exterior world via the top-most nut plate and hole,
and
the second through the lower-most nutplate and hole. Cleco the plate back on, Connect
the gauge and a battery, and by pulling on the cords move the float through its
full
range, checking that you get full deflections on the gauge.
HO-HO-HO - (Reindeer are for sissies) - use an RV!
Rob Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | REMOVE MY NAME FROM LIST |
This is my FOURTH request to have my name removed from the e-mail list.
PLEASE REMOVE MY NAME!!!!!!! It is tiring to keep on having to dump all this
mail.
Bryan Grossman
BRY VIDA(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Re: REMOVE MY NAME FROM LIST |
>--------------
>This is my FOURTH request to have my name removed from the e-mail list.
>PLEASE REMOVE MY NAME!!!!!!! It is tiring to keep on having to dump all this
>mail.
>
>Bryan Grossman
>BRY VIDA(at)aol.com
>--------------
Bryan,
Have you tried sending a message to "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com" with
the phrase "unsubscribe BRYDIDA(at)aol.com" in the body of the message like
the RV-List FAQ describes? This method works well.
Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KUKULSKIM(at)aol.com |
My name is Mike Kukulski and I am a new subscriber to the RV List. I am
building an RV-4; the empenage and wings are done, the fuselage is out of the
jig and at the seat installation stage.
The airplane has had a long gestation period - as a USAF pilot the project
has been compelled to make several moves. It was started in England in 1989
(horizontal stab), moved to Phoenix (vertical fin), then to North Carolina
(elevators, rudder, and one wing), then trucked back to Phoenix (2nd wing),
and the fuselage come out of the jig 2 days before the movers arrived for my
move to my present location in Albuquerque. I built a Rocky Mountain
Instruments Micro-Encoder while deployed to Saudia Arabia, and have also
built the RMI Micro-Monitor. I just received a O-320 from Van's, and am
working hard to get the airplane completed now that I am in a non-flying
assignment.
I trucked my wings using cradles described by Tony Bingelis in his books, and
also built a fuselage cradle for shipping and that holds it level for ongoing
work. All have casters allowing easy movement around the shop. The engine
also sits in a cradle based on that described by Bingelis.
The only significant mod I have is a NACA duct on the lower left wing feeding
a fresh air vent for the rear seat, with a outlet in the rear stick well. I
saw this on an RV-4 at Copperstate. I also plan on modifying the front seat
floorboards with hinged doors and Hartwell latches to act as small storage
areas. (Also copied from an Arizona RV)
I've used a British epoxy primer, DuPont Variprime, System Three Resins,
Inc's water reduceable epoxy primer, Marhyde self-etching primer, and PPG
epoxy primer. I've settled on acid etching and PPG DP-48 epoxy primer (white
color) to hopefully allow a lighter weight final finish without any cover
problems. All of the systems I tried yielded very good results with the
exception of the water-based primer. It required me to build an "oven" with
high watt light bulbs to help cure and still took about 24 hours for safe
handling; and then the finish seems brittle. I'd recommend either DuPont or
PPG over properly prepared surfaces.
I've enjoyed the info exchange I've read so far; looking forward to future
participation.
Mike Kukulski
Albuquerque, NM
KUKULSKIM(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | George McNutt <72714.2663(at)compuserve.com> |
Hi- I have just added my name to the rv-list and am sending the following
comments as per instructions in rv-list general info section.
I heard about rv-list on Compuserve Avsig forum.
I have not started building yet but put a deposit on RV-6A tail kit and will
pick it up early in 1996 when pre-punched tail skins become available.
No previous building experience but I have rebuilt (no metal work) a derelict
Mooney M20B.
I have owned and maintained aircraft, under supervision of my AME, for 20 years
and currently have a Cessna 182 based at Langley B.C.
I fly a DC10-30 for a living.
QUESTION: Do you use the "rv-list(at)matronics.com" address when sending messages
back and forth to each other?
George McNutt
Surrey, B.C. Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Cracks in elevator skin |
>I just found a couple small (3/4") cracks in my top right elevator skin at
>the aft end of the stiffeners (They are perpendicular to the stiffener).
> That's why Van sez to put silicone in there now, I guess. Not yet sure how
>I'll proceed - maybe stop drill and try to inject silicone with a long tube
>on a caulking gun cartridge. Anybody out there had this happen? Any
>suggestions? I really don't wanna reskin the elevator.
>
>
Other people that have had this problem have stop drilled the cracks, also
others have said that if left alone they will progress to a certain length
and then stop of their own accord. Personally, I'd stop drill them.
-- Ed Bundy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff Carpenter <70633.355(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Sky-Tec Starter,Free |
All, anybody want a Sky-Tec,Model 149-12HT,starter,12V,10lbs.,for o-320 &
0-360,used less than 100 hrs.in cold MN. where it does not do the job? Starter
has been in a box at the hangar with no takers for 4 yrs,so I'm reducing the
price for you guys down to nothing, that's right you heard it here first, zero
bucks, nada,FFFRRRREEEEEEEE!!!(OH!, you pay the freight!)
Cliff
Compuserve 70633,355
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ski's & RV-4 |
On Sat, 16 Dec 1995, aol.com!PFPA(at)matronics.com wrote:
>I've also been considering ways to haul my skiis in my RV-6A. My first
>thought was to build racks in the tail cone of the fuselage and slide them
>back. However after speaking with someone at Van's (I forget who) I was
>advised that between the weight of the skiis and the amount of other gear
>that would need to go behind the seats, I would probably be causing an aft cg
>problem. Van's suggested instead building a belly pod that can be easily
>installed or removed when needed. Such a pod would sit right on the cg point
>and could therefore be stuffed with gear with little impact on performance.
>(at least non-aerobatic performance) It would also offer the benefit of easy
>loading and would prevent all that snow and mud from dripping into your
>fuselage after a day on the slopes.
>
>Van's said to get a fat piece of PVC piping and attach a standard spinner to
>each end. I think we can do better. I have made a rough sketch of a
>symetrical belly pod that would open up on each end or like a clam shell for
>easy loading. It would be easy to attach when needed with a clevis type
>arrangement. (the female end would be permanently attached to the airframe.
>The pod would then hang with a couple AN-5 bolts) Anyway a local fiberglass
>place said they could build these things for about $300-400 each which is
>real cheap, except I would also have to build a form +/-$2000 and also a mold
>for another $2000. If enough of us were interested, perhaps we could split
>the cost of the form and mold and get these things made at reasonable price.
>
>By the way, Just cause I'm going to fill this thing with skiis, doesn't mean
>you can't put whatever else you'd like in it instead. (golf clubs, camping
> gear, duffle bags, food, flag poles, whatever)
>
>If anyone is interested, or can think of a better solution please e-mail back
>
>Andy Gold
>RV-6A (finishing kit)
>
>
I'm interested. My wife and I do not weigh much and would like to be able to
carry more stuff occassionally. Just getting started with project, though, so
keep us posted. I think a removable belly pod would have market potential.
Gordon Pratt
________________________________________________________________________________
<---- Begin Forwarded Message ---->
From: av8r(at)hic.net
Subject: Re: RV-6A info.
Received this from Direct from John Duprey - EagleData(at)aol.com so replied & passed
on
to all for comments..
John, I'll be happy to help if I can,
You asked....
>I understand you are nearing completion on an RV-6. Congrads.
I guess so, the pile of bits is down to next to nothing so I suppose I'll have
to fly
the thing soon! and thanks - building this has been just about the most rewarding
thing
I've done. I had no metalwork experience, a golf game , a full time job with extensive
traveling, and still have the same after building..( Wife still here too!!) - although
the golf game has suffered some !!
Still I should be done within 3 years - and about 2200 hours.
>I am considering undertaking an RV-6 project. I would like to converse with
>people like yourself who have a similar interest. I just got the Van's web
>address from the r.a.h. newsgroup. Are there pilot groups/clubs?
Subscribe to our Rv Email forum - send a message to " rv-list(at)matronics.com "
There is an automatic function that will subscribe you so long as, in the body
of the
message you put "subscribe EagleData(at)aol.com" (lose the quotation marks and don't
write
nothing else.) - you will be amazed - over 400 members, mostly RV nuts, and access
to I
guess over 5 megs of RV archives - letters and stuff.
>Before I consider this project any further I need to know if the RV can
>take-off and climb reasonably at speeds below 65 kts and if anyone has put a
>tow hook on an RV. I fly sailplanes and would like to be able to tow a
>glider.
I have absolutly no idea on this one - sorry mate, - but I bet someone in the group
will
get you an answer within 12 hours ! (I've passed this reply on to our group)
(please contact john direct until he gets on line guys )(but copy us in though!)
>I have no experience building or repairing aircraft other than RC models. I
>am fairly technically minded and good with my hands. What is a reasonable
>build time? What did you find most difficult?
Most difficult - telling the wife and getting started, oh and I did not enjoy fitting
the cowling much - fiberglass - bloody terrible stuff!
AS for Build time - 90 days to 15 years is normal !!!! - depends on what your priorities
are - I guess about 5 yrs would be about average. If you are technical, and not
afraid
to ask for help, the project is not too difficult for most folk.
>Your reply is greatly appreciated.
>John Duprey
>IL, USA
You are most welcome ...Seasons greeting to all!!
Rob Lee
<---- End Forwarded Message ---->
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Ayers <102337.2252(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Electric Variable Pitch Prop on RV-3 |
I was asked to provide more information about the variable pitch electric prop
I
am testing on my LOM
RV-3.
It is a composite prop. It weights about the same as the 68x68 Warnke pusher
prop I normally use. It is a
direct bolt-on through an adapter plate.
I am flying it with a backplate, no spinner yet. Therefore, no top end
performance numbers yet. The climb
has really improved, but I haven't used full power for takeoff and climb yet
(This won't be a problem after I
install the constant speed electronics unit). At 2,500 feet with full throttle
without the supercharger engaged,
full cruise pitch only limited the rpm to 2600, so the present 62 inch diameter
is too small.
This prop is an Ivoprop "Magnum" propeller.
This is the very first "Magnum" variable pitch prop flying, and it even has the
prototype electric drive unit.
I am supposed to get as much time on it as I can, and try to break the drive
unit.
The prop blades are replaceable in the prop hub. It will take either two or
three blades. I have a three
bladed 62 inch diameter prop to try next, and then a 66 inch diameter two bladed
prop. The longest blade
available is a 76 inch diameter.
BTW, I have been flight testing Ivoprop propellers for over two years. Ivo is
getting really close to having
a reliable constant speed and/or variable pitch propeller available. I believe
his goal for the selling price is
less than $2,000 complete.
Jim Ayers
LOM RV-3 (The long nose really gets in the way in the takeoff climb)
Maroon Marauder N47RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Cockpit computers |
With regards to the following,
Arnav has a new system called the System 6. It's worth a look.
Gordon Pratt
Tooling up...
On Mon, 18 Dec 1995, rassp.hac.com!gil(at)matronics.com (Gil Alexander) wrote:
>RV-list computer guys,
> Panel-mounted computers were one of the "hot things" at Oshkosh
>this year (way behind the Garmin 90 GPS though!). I picked up two data
>sheets, and there may have been one or two more folks also offering "PCs
>for the cockpit".
>
>
>Two companies for you to call:-
>
>Avidyne - Flight Computer System. 1-800-AVIDYNE or 617-674-9300
>
>Panel mount with 5 inch (320x234 pixels) diag. Color Active-Matrix LCD
>
>
>Silvaire - Cockpit PC. 818-969-0347 slvaire(at)ibm.net (all caps? in data
sheet)
>
>Panel mount with 5.6 inch (320x240 pixels) or 6.8 inch (640x480 pixels)
>diag. Color Active-Matrix LCD
>
>
>
> Both companies have multiple processor, disk and RAM options, and
>quite readable displays. It seemed to me that this was a case of "build
>it, and the software will come", since no software seemed to be available,
>just 'vaporware' for pretty demos.
>
> Let us all know what you find, perhaps you can write some RV
>specific s/w for us all .. :^) .......
>
>
>Gil Alexander, #20701, RV6A ... canopy frame
>gil(at)rassp.hac.com
>
>
>
>>Glad to see someone else is thinking about a pc-based LED panel "on the
>>panel". Just started laying out the instruments on my RV6 panel today... and
>>decided to keep room open for a VGA capable active matrix color LED display.
>> Had in mind buying moving map software and serial input GPS (see ad in this
>>month's Sport Aviation). Then figured I would disassemble a notebook PC, and
>>mount the LED panel on the RV panel. However, I am concerned about glare &
>>visibility in bright light. I have an IBM thinkpad with removable back to
>>allow use of the display panel as an overhead projector panel... works
>>well... and suggests that I might be able to put together a brighter
>>backlight for the RV panel (perhaps, a row of miniture flourescent tubes (as
>>used in battery powered camping lanterns?)). Any thoughts?
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
Received this from Direct from John Duprey - EagleData(at)aol.com so replied & passed
on
to all for comments..
John, I'll be happy to help if I can,
You asked....
>I understand you are nearing completion on an RV-6. Congrads.
I guess so, the pile of bits is down to next to nothing so I suppose I'll have
to fly
the thing soon! and thanks - building this has been just about the most rewarding
thing
I've done. I had no metalwork experience, a golf game , a full time job with extensive
traveling, and still have the same after building..( Wife still here too!!) - although
the golf game has suffered some !!
Still I should be done within 3 years - and about 2200 hours.
>I am considering undertaking an RV-6 project. I would like to converse with
>people like yourself who have a similar interest. I just got the Van's web
>address from the r.a.h. newsgroup. Are there pilot groups/clubs?
Subscribe to our Rv Email forum - send a message to " rv-list(at)matronics.com "
There is an automatic function that will subscribe you so long as, in the body
of the
message you put "subscribe EagleData(at)aol.com" (lose the quotation marks and don't
write
nothing else.) - you will be amazed - over 400 members, mostly RV nuts, and access
to I
guess over 5 megs of RV archives - letters and stuff.
>Before I consider this project any further I need to know if the RV can
>take-off and climb reasonably at speeds below 65 kts and if anyone has put a
>tow hook on an RV. I fly sailplanes and would like to be able to tow a
>glider.
I have absolutly no idea on this one - sorry mate, - but I bet someone in the group
will
get you an answer within 12 hours ! (I've passed this reply on to our group)
(please contact john direct until he gets on line guys )(but copy us in though!)
>I have no experience building or repairing aircraft other than RC models. I
>am fairly technically minded and good with my hands. What is a reasonable
>build time? What did you find most difficult?
Most difficult - telling the wife and getting started, oh and I did not enjoy fitting
the cowling much - fiberglass - bloody terrible stuff!
AS for Build time - 90 days to 15 years is normal !!!! - depends on what your priorities
are - I guess about 5 yrs would be about average. If you are technical, and not
afraid
to ask for help, the project is not too difficult for most folk.
>Your reply is greatly appreciated.
>John Duprey
>IL, USA
You are most welcome ...Seasons greeting to all!!
Rob Lee
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rso(at)css.ncifcrf.gov (Becki Orndorff) |
Y'All,
George and I would like to wish you all happy holidays and thank you for
all your support this year. We've really enjoyed being part of such a
great group as the RV builders are. Gentle winds, warm breezes and happy
flying to you all!
George and Becki Orndorff
Becki Orndorff
NCI-FCRDC, Computer & Statistical Services
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MacGraham(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Please add me to your mailing list |
Please add my name, Colin H. Graham, to your list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Gottschalk (286-0708)" <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
I bought MentorPlus Flight Map and PCMCIA GPS at Oshkosh this summer. I'm
running it on a Toshiba with active matrix and your right, it's hard to see
(understatement) in the direct light. If you don't mount it and with
another person in the plane to jiggle the display around you can usually get
it to a posit where you can see it. Flying with the map is almost a two
person project anyway. Maybe when it get more experienced with it will
become easier, but when your trying to fiddle and fly you get to see some
unusual (unusable) attitudes! It's a neat setup when it's working good.
-Gene
>Glad to see someone else is thinking about a pc-based LED panel "on the
>panel". Just started laying out the instruments on my RV6 panel today... and
>decided to keep room open for a VGA capable active matrix color LED display.
> Had in mind buying moving map software and serial input GPS (see ad in this
>month's Sport Aviation). Then figured I would disassemble a notebook PC, and
>mount the LED panel on the RV panel. However, I am concerned about glare &
>visibility in bright light. I have an IBM thinkpad with removable back to
>allow use of the display panel as an overhead projector panel... works
>well... and suggests that I might be able to put together a brighter
>backlight for the RV panel (perhaps, a row of miniture flourescent tubes (as
>used in battery powered camping lanterns?)). Any thoughts?
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JIM SCHMIDT <JIM.SCHMIDT(at)mail.mei.com> |
| Subject: | Sky-Tec Starter,Free -Reply |
I'm interested in what starter works in the
north. I live in Floriday but plan to fly
north. Was going to use a light weight
starter if necessary for weight and balance.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Kelley <72466.1355(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Breaking of the spar strips |
> The main spar flanges come already rounded over, or at least mine did.
> Looks like they were done on a mill of some kind. Not much cleanup was
>required.
Yea, the ones that are up against the webs are rounded on the flange side. Van's
would have to do this side in order to position re-enforcement strips and
pre-drill the spar. What I understand from the documentation is that all corners
are to be "rounded" in order to help releave any stress concentration during
flexing of the spar. Is the rounding of the edges of all the re-enforcement
strips for the spars required? I think so. The tapering is optional but the
rounding of the corners is required. Am I correct?
Here is a crude example top end view:
/ // / //
/ // / //
|###############|/ (###############)
end view end view
before after
Looking staight from the end / stacked on top of each other:
|###############| (###############)
|###############| (###############)
|###############| (###############)
end view end view
before after
Hope this makes it. If we could just include graphics!
Thanks....
James Kelley
72466.1355(at)compuserve.com
Taking inventory of wing kit. Shop clean and dual wing jig 98% complete.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sky-Tec Starter,Free -Reply |
>I'm interested in what starter works in the
>north. I live in Floriday but plan to fly
>north. Was going to use a light weight
>starter if necessary for weight and balance.
>
>If you buy one of the new Sky Tec starters, I think you would be happy with
it. I have one on my RV-6 and I live in Nebraska. I gets pretty cold here
(of course, I pre-heat). I had the original Prestolite starter on the RV
for short period of time and I think the Sky Tec turns the engine over much
better. I think you would also get better cranking power with a RG battery
as opposed to a gell cell. From the information that I have, the older Sky
Tec's are more suited to lower hp Lycomings, 125-135 hp. Also, if you have a
122 tooth (I think that's the other choice) ring gear, the starter would
have to be changed - cost $150.00. Bob Skinner RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ernst Totland" <ernto(at)weald.air.saab.se> |
I have been lurking for a few weeks and find it is time to say hello.
I am Ernst Totland, living in Linkoping, Sweden, working at Saab Military
Aircraft as an aerodynamicist. I finished my RV-6 a year ago and have 55 h
on it by now. It is built strictly according to Van's plans and equipped
with a new O-320 and Warnke 72x72 up front. It took me 3300 logged hours in
4.5 years to build it. There is a picture of it in RVator 2/95.
At the moment we have 5 RV-6's, 1 RV-4 and 1 RV-3 flying in Sweden. 15+ RV's
are under construction. I guess that makes us the largest RV-group in Europe.
The RV-4 has been operated on skiis for several seasons. The handling is very
good, according to the owners. No problem at all. I have not seen the
installation myself, however, as I have met these guys only at summer fly-ins.
I am extremely happy with my -6 and I have had very few problems with
it the first year of operation. Van has done a great job in designing the
aircraft and I can also praise his builder-support. But I miss organized
follow-up like Service Bulletins/Service Instructions etc. I recall
seeing only one official AD, the one on the floor mounted rudder pedals.
In our group we have therefore started compiling notes on our mishaps and
service problems. So far, we have had the "normal" problems like several
cracked exhaust stacks (Tolle's), cowl hinge problems, cracks in spinner and
backplate, cracked heat muffs, leaking fuel tank access covers etc. Obviously
all installations and aircraft are different, but are there any typical service
"problems" to watch for? Like the cracks in elevator skins recently discussed.
I would be most grateful for any comments you might have.
Thanks for a great forum.
Happy hollidays.
Ernst Totland
ernto(at)weald.air.saab.se
RV-6 #20898
SE-XOI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
>All that being said, I'm pretty sure I'll wind up leaving the moving
>maps and glass cockpits for the airline drivers up in the flight
>levels and just keep looking out the window and thinking simple
>thoughts.
Bravo! I've always believed in "simpler is better" too. For me, the fun is
flying. Heck I can play with computers when I'm stuck on the ground...
>Will Outlaw (returning to lurk mode)
>"Pay off the car, pay off the credit cards, start building an RV"
Hmmm. I think I see a flaw in your sequence. :)
- Ed Bundy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ecole(at)ix.netcom.com (EDWARD COLE ) |
| Subject: | Re: Sky-Tec Starter,Free |
You wrote:
>
>All, anybody want a Sky-Tec,Model 149-12HT,starter,12V,10lbs.,for
o-320 &
>0-360,used less than 100 hrs.in cold MN. where it does not do the job?
Starter
>has been in a box at the hangar with no takers for 4 yrs,so I'm
reducing the
>price for you guys down to nothing, that's right you heard it here
first, zero
>bucks, nada,FFFRRRREEEEEEEE!!!(OH!, you pay the freight!)
>
>Cliff
>Compuserve 70633,355
>
>
Cliff,
You probably have 1000 takers, but here goes,
Call me at 408-257-3281 H 408-737-7600 x6605 W
Name the terms on the freight and I'll even pay for the call!
Ed Cole RV6A Sunny, Warm, California.....
ecole(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WStucklen(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Engine Source (fwd) |
> I would use caution buying from these folks.
> I talked to Don several yrs ago and most of the engines he sells
> homebuilders (for experimentals) have non-yellow taged parts in them.
> He said this was to reduce his costs as the shops charge more for
> work that is yellow tagged (due to the extra liability).
> My concern is that if it is not yellow tagged, they anyone can repair it
> in their garage just like you can.
> I would just be cautious that they are not pawning off stuff on
>homebuilders
> that would not be legal for certified aircraft.
>
> To answer your question, I also saw the same phone number for Don George
> and AIR TEC. I think he may be handling the homebuilt engine business
> under one name and certified parts under the other.
>
> Herman
I purchased my engine from AIR-TEC. I've got 625 Hrs on it to date with
nothing more than a small oil drip on one push rod tube (easily fixed).
During the purchase negations I specified how I expected the engine to to
constructed. Part of the specification was yellow tags for ALL parts in the
engine and adherance to all know AD's that particular engine. While the
assembly cannot be deemed "CERTIFIED", the best possible "EXPERIMENTAL"
engine was the result.
This brings up another interesting story:
When the FAA certified the aircraft, I was asked if I had if I had
conformed to all the AD's for this "CERTIFIED" Lycoming engine. I stated that
The engine was not certified, but I had complied to all the AD's that
pertained to a similar engine. The inspector asked, "What do you mean it's
not certified, it's a Lycoming and all Lycoming engines have to be
certified". I asked what made him think it was a Lycoming engine. He replied
that it said so on the four rocker covers. "Well", I said, "in eight more
places it says 'Champion', in two more place is says 'Slick', another place
it says 'Marvel'. With all these names on the engine, how does the FAA
determine the actual manufacturer?"
A bit frustrated now, his reply was "I see your point. The manufacturer's
name will be on the data tag". I replyed "But, according to your FAR's, an
experimental engine isn't required to have a data tag". Now, obviously
frustrated with me, he replied "The ENGINE MUST HAVE A DATA TAG!" to which I
shot back, "Well, OK, if you insist, BUT WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE IT TO SAY? This
is an EXPERIMENTAL engine and I am the manufacturer?".
After more discussions detailing what the differences in EXPERIMENTAL
engines and CERTIFIED engines entailed, I asked him "If this were a CERTIFIED
engine, could I put a CD ignitions system on it?" to which he accurately
replyed, "No, there aren't any certified CD ignition systems available (Pre-
new Slick CD days). I asked him "if this were a CERTIFIED engine, could I
explore the advantages of ceramic coating on the journals like the race car
people are doing" (I really didn't coat my journals), to which he replyed
"No, that process isn't approved for aircraft engines." So I stated to him
that is why we have the EXPERIMENTAL class of aircraft, so that we don't have
to be stuck with the MENTALITY and the TECHNOLOGY of the 1930's (where the
FAA currently is), but have the ability to utilize 1990's technologies in our
aircrafts.
Now, you have to know that it was raining lightly, and he's dressed in a
white shirt and tie. He's so frustrated with me at this point that he goes
out of the hanger out to the line and starts doing a ramp check.
Well, I did put a data tag on the engine. It does say "EXPERIMENTAL" with
me as the manufacturer. And the FAA went away happy, But not until we had a
similar discussion on why the FAA though that an experimental aircraft is
required to have 6 INCH "N" numbers. But, then that's another
story...........
Fred stucklen RV-6A N925RV (Going to Florida (from Ct) 12-26-95)
wstucklen(at)aol.com
>
>> From root Fri Dec 15 12:42:39 1995
>> Errors-To: bounces(at)matronics.com
>> From: aol.com!WStucklen(at)matronics.com
>> Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 12:02:25 -0500
>> Message-Id: <951215120223_73612539(at)emout06.mail.aol.com>
>> To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Lycoming Engine Source
>>
>> >Don George Custom Lycoming Engines shop phone number is (407) 422-0188.
>His
>> >address is 1339 West Washington Street, Orlando, Florida 32805. When I
>> >bought my engine, the base price for an O-320 was $8950. That may have
>> >increased in the past few years since I bought mine. I had all of the
>> >special accessories drop shipped to Don and he gave me credit for the
>things
>> >that come on the engine that I didn't need, like the carb and starter.
>Hope
>> >this helps.
>> >
>> >Jim Cone
>> >RV-6A working on finishing kit.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Isn't this the same address as AIR-TEC INC. ? And as I remember it it was
>> operated by Dick Waters. Although the tel # is not the same.
>>
>> Does anybody know anything about AIR-TEC? (Tel # 407-839-4746)
>>
>> Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
>> wstucklen(at)aol.com
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WStucklen(at)aol.com |
>Glad to see someone else is thinking about a pc-based LED panel "on the
>panel". Just started laying out the instruments on my RV6 panel today...
and
>decided to keep room open for a VGA capable active matrix color LED display.
> Had in mind buying moving map software and serial input GPS (see ad in this
>month's Sport Aviation). Then figured I would disassemble a notebook PC,
and
>mount the LED panel on the RV panel. However, I am concerned about glare &
>visibility in bright light. I have an IBM thinkpad with removable back to
>allow use of the display panel as an overhead projector panel... works
>well... and suggests that I might be able to put together a brighter
>backlight for the RV panel (perhaps, a row of miniture flourescent tubes (as
>used in battery powered camping lanterns?)). Any thoughts?
>
>
There are several industrial electronics suppliers that have flat panel LCD
PC based CPU systems that could be easily installed into the panel of an
aircraft. These even have the option of touch screen displays. All are 100%
PC compatable, complete with backlighting.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Sky-Tec Starter,Free |
>
> All, anybody want a Sky-Tec,Model 149-12HT,starter,12V,10lbs.,for o-320 &
> 0-360,used less than 100 hrs.in cold MN. where it does not do the job? Starter
> has been in a box at the hangar with no takers for 4 yrs,so I'm reducing the
> price for you guys down to nothing, that's right you heard it here first, zero
> bucks, nada,FFFRRRREEEEEEEE!!!(OH!, you pay the freight!)
>
> Cliff
> Compuserve 70633,355
I doubt I'm first, but in case I am, I'll take it!
Where do I send the check for shipping?
Randall Henderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BHamlin1(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Ski's & RV-4 |
I remember last year's (I think the '94) RV calendar had a photo of a Swedish
RV4 on
Skis, so it has been done before. If you want I could look at the calendar
and get the
builder's name; then you could probably contact them thru Van's and ask how
they
did it...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Brown <jmbrown(at)aimnet.com> |
If you put displays for the folksin the back seats then you can play
DOOM while flying!! Next all you would need to have is a wireless
network connection to your buddy flying formation. Of course this
would all be done in a RV-7! (If Van ever makes one)!
Couldn't resist!
-------sig cut here-------
jmbrown(at)aimnet.com PP-ASEL
jmbrown(at)BayNetworks.com
Building an RV-6 #23568 N610JB "The Golden BeeBee"
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Kelley <72466.1355(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Hello - Flat panel / Computer |
I have designed and constructed equipment using pc-clone parts as controllers:
Scales that auto calabrated based on barcodes located on packages, digital test
equipment, data logging: heat, voltage, speed, pressure, etc, all the functions
required for monitoring engine & flight. Also found gyros that can be connected.
if you want to go that far? Display location: I would mount an additional
monitor or display recessed in the instrument panel with a glare screen covering
and have the lap-top in a remote location. Distance? The signals can be
converted and sent way more than two feet. All the software would have to be
mouse driven or maybe touch screen. It would be great to have a a way to control
it on the stick. Maybe use an eraser head type mouse? I have seen touch
sensitive glare screens with windows drivers somewhere also. Wouldn't want to
keep the lap-top in the plane all the time so it would have to be removeable. It
would be nice to flight plan at home and have it for other uses. I think the
digital world is great. I wouldn't want to fly IFR with this rig knowing
windows, dos and Mac OS, fatal error or system crash could take on a new
meaning. Maybe it would be a good secondary reference. As you can see I have
been dreaming again! I have a long way to go before the cock pit is a concern.
That's my two cents.
James Kelley
72466.1355(at)compuserve.com
> I bought MentorPlus Flight Map and PCMCIA GPS at Oshkosh this summer. I'm
> running it on a Toshiba with active matrix and your right, it's hard to see
> (understatement) in the direct light. If you don't mount it and with
> another person in the plane to jiggle the display around you can usually get
> it to a posit where you can see it. Flying with the map is almost a two
> person project anyway. Maybe when it get more experienced with it will
> become easier, but when your trying to fiddle and fly you get to see some
> unusual (unusable) attitudes! It's a neat setup when it's working good.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WStucklen(at)aol.com |
> Sounds interesting. I do have some thoughts on panels and
>reflections. I find on my RV-6 that the LCD displays are much better that
>the flourescent display on my ARNAV loran or the TKM comm radio. I intend
>to use all LCD displays on the RV-6A I'm building now. Bob Skinner
>
>
I've used all LCD displays in my RV and have had no problems with direct
sunlight or reflections.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Introduction |
[snip!]
> ... are there any typical service
> "problems" to watch for? Like the cracks in elevator skins recently discussed.
> I would be most grateful for any comments you might have.
> Thanks for a great forum.
> Happy hollidays.
>
> Ernst Totland
A while back on this list there was extensive discussion about
"working" rivets at the bottom of the firewall. This seems to be more
common in RVs with larger engines. There are several possible fixes,
the most desirable of which would be to build it with 1/8" instead of
3/32" rivets for the skin-to-angle rivet line, that is, the rivets that
connect the bottom skin to the piece of angle that is riveted to the
bottom of the firewall. Other fixes include drilling out the rivets
and replacing them with universal head 1/8" rivets, and/or adding 1/8"
c-sunk or universal head rivets between the existing ones.
I am not even at this stage in my project yet so this is all just what
I've read/talked about/seen, I haven't any first hand experience with
it. You might want to try to find itt in the rv-list archives, there
was a lot of good discussion about it (it was probably about a year
ago).
If you talk to Van's about this try to talk to Tom Green, I think he
has had first hand experience with it.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A. Reichert" <reichera(at)clark.net> |
On Tue, 19 Dec 1995, John Brown wrote:
> If you put displays for the folksin the back seats then you can play
> DOOM while flying!! Next all you would need to have is a wireless
> network connection to your buddy flying formation. Of course this
> would all be done in a RV-7! (If Van ever makes one)!
If I recall correctly, he did build an RV-7. It was a one-off proof of
concept plane that is now permanently stored. I dont' remember the
details of it, though.
- Alan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A. Reichert" <reichera(at)clark.net> |
On Tue, 19 Dec 1995 aol.com!WStucklen(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
> I've used all LCD displays in my RV and have had no problems with direct
> sunlight or reflections.
How about some photos of your installation?
- Alan
| Alan Reichert - Wannabe RV-6 Builder |
| Plans #24179 |
| http://www.clark.net/pub/reichera/home.html |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A. Reichert" <reichera(at)clark.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hello - Flat panel / Computer |
With all the talk of flat-panel displays and removable laptops, has
anyone thought of simply adapting a docking station to the task? Perhaps
that is too obvious, but I haven't heard it mentioned specifically.
- Alan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Inspections (was Re: Lycoming Engine Source (fwd)) |
No offense, but I personally think it's a bad idea to get into a heated
discussion of the regs about data plates and such with the FAA
inspector who's about to sign off your project. It's true the engine
needs to have a data tag. You should replace the Lycoming data plate
with your own "experimental" plate before the FAA shows up, and just
point out when he asks that this is not a certified engine, it's
experimental, "see, it says so on the data plate". Next subject.
As for the size of N numbers, this is in the regs -- Section 45.22 (b)
says they only need to be 2" high for experimentals. Know this and
show the examiner, and that should be all there is to it.
A local builder recently went through a much better experience -- his
attitude and that of the inspector was much more cooperative, and I'm
sure the examiner didn't go off ramp checking people afterwards just
out of frustration. I think it's a good idea to try to avoid an
adversarial attitude with your local FAA inspectors, makes it easier on
the next guy if nothing else. And you never know, he may even find a
bolt that's not safetied and save you some grief.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
> Date: Tue, 19 Dec 1995 14:11:55 -0500 (EST)
> From: "A. Reichert" <clark.net!reichera(at)matronics.com>
> If I recall correctly, he did build an RV-7. It was a one-off proof of
> concept plane that is now permanently stored. I dont' remember the
> details of it, though.
>
> - Alan
No there never was an RV-7. You're probably thinking of the RV-5, a
half-volkswagen (and later rotax I think) powered swing wing (for
trailering) single seater, which is now stored in the rafters at Van's
hangar.
Randall
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Inspections (was Re: Lycoming Engine Source (fwd)) |
I'll second that. Getting a new homebuilt is a really stressful time
for me. I always feel the feds. have me by the throat, I tend to be
EXTRA polite!
Dan Boudro
Alubquerque, NM
RV-4 N9167Z
On Tue, 19 Dec 1995, Randall Henderson wrote:
>
> No offense, but I personally think it's a bad idea to get into a heated
> discussion of the regs about data plates and such with the FAA
> inspector who's about to sign off your project. It's true the engine
> needs to have a data tag. You should replace the Lycoming data plate
> with your own "experimental" plate before the FAA shows up, and just
> point out when he asks that this is not a certified engine, it's
> experimental, "see, it says so on the data plate". Next subject.
>
> As for the size of N numbers, this is in the regs -- Section 45.22 (b)
> says they only need to be 2" high for experimentals. Know this and
> show the examiner, and that should be all there is to it.
>
> A local builder recently went through a much better experience -- his
> attitude and that of the inspector was much more cooperative, and I'm
> sure the examiner didn't go off ramp checking people afterwards just
> out of frustration. I think it's a good idea to try to avoid an
> adversarial attitude with your local FAA inspectors, makes it easier on
> the next guy if nothing else. And you never know, he may even find a
> bolt that's not safetied and save you some grief.
>
> Randall Henderson
> RV-6
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gil(at)rassp.hac.com (Gil Alexander) |
*** snip ***
>
>As for the size of N numbers, this is in the regs -- Section 45.22 (b)
>says they only need to be 2" high for experimentals. Know this and
^^^^^^^
>show the examiner, and that should be all there is to it.
>
*** snip ***
>
>Randall Henderson
>RV-6
I'm sure this was a mis-type of Randall's. It's 3 inch lettering
that is needed, unless you are an antique, or a replica of a plane over
30(?) years old. If you qualify for this, you get to use NX as a prefix
(as in NX64GA).
Anyone know of any mid-60's planes that the RV6 could be called a
replica of? ... I think an NX prefix would be neat!
Gil Alexander
gil(at)rassp.hac.com
RV6A, #20701, N64GA .. reserved for 3 inch numbers :^)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | B F Gibbons <bfgibbons(at)intellinet.com> |
| Subject: | Vision Microsystems Fuel Level |
Has anyone installed the vision Microsystems fuel level system? I'm =
interested in it because of the look of the fuel gauge in the panel. I =
like the simplicity of the 'typical' fuel senders like Van sells, but =
don't care much for the look of the gauges. Any experience good or bad?
B F Gibbons
looking at those fuel tanks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Chandler <mauser(at)Claris.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: control stops |
Bob Skinner says:
> I drilled two $ 40 holes in the blocks
Boy, I knew these things were holes that you threw money into, but I didn't
know that there were sizes for specific denominations. :-)
--
"Wait a minute, you expect us innocent children to climb up dangerous
scaffolding and paint naked people all over a church? We'll do it!!"
-- Yakko Warner, Animaniacs
"Yeah, I've got ADD, you wanna make something of.... oooh, cool. Look!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DerFlieger(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Inspections (was Re: Lycoming Engine Source (fwd)) |
>No offense, but I personally think it's a bad idea to get into a heated
>discussion of the regs about data plates and such with the FAA
>inspector who's about to sign off your project. It's true the engine
>needs to have a data tag. You should replace the Lycoming data plate
>with your own "experimental" plate before the FAA shows up, and just
>point out when he asks that this is not a certified engine, it's
>experimental, "see, it says s
Problem with this is most FAA offices and/or designees will give you a longer
flyoff time if you have a non-certified engine or prop. What makes it
certified? The yellow tag which you show the inspector if you want a shorter
flyoff. Of course some inspectors will give you a break when they see the
LYC dataplate and the Obviously Hartzell propellor, even though you might
have modified either or both. Don't ask, don't tell is not such a bad idea,
here anyway!
Jim Stugart
DerFlieger(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | hsutphin(at)ix.netcom.com (hsutphin) |
| Subject: | Fred Felix Prop For Sale |
For Sale: Fred Felix laminated maple prop 68" D x 71" P for 150/160hp
Lycoming engines. New (3hrs TT). Please send inquiries to Larry email -
76463.2414(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Brown <jmbrown(at)aimnet.com> |
The RV-7 is a "POSSIBLE" 4 seat A/C. Van indicated that the RV-7 has been
reserved for such an A/C should it get developed. Hence the RV-8!
As spoken by Van at OSH-95 VAF Dinner Party
-------sig cut here-------
jmbrown(at)aimnet.com PP-ASEL
jmbrown(at)BayNetworks.com
Building an RV-6 #23568 N610JB "The Golden BeeBee"
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FAA Inspections (was Re: Lycoming Engine Source (fwd)) |
>No offense, but I personally think it's a bad idea to get into a heated
>discussion of the regs about data plates and such with the FAA
>inspector who's about to sign off your project. It's true the engine
>needs to have a data tag. You should replace the Lycoming data plate
>with your own "experimental" plate before the FAA shows up, and just
>point out when he asks that this is not a certified engine, it's
>experimental, ....
If I take of that data plate and replace it with an "Experimental" one - does't
it mean
I'm risking a 40 hour fly off rather than a 24 hour one that seems to come with
using a
certified Engine/Prop combination ???
IMHO I think it might - by the way, how many test hours did that bad man from the
FAA
assign on this occasion - It sounds like there may have been an "intsy-wincy"
personality clash between you and "the Man". !!
Keep the faith !
Rob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DerFlieger(at)aol.com |
Does anyone have a number for the Lord (mount) company? Trying to get the
specs on a J7401-8 mount and what would be the replacement. Is there any
info about the thickness (therefore, the space between the engine mounting
face and the engine mount ring) included in the part number?
Jim Stugart RV6/6A, 180 HP
DerFlieger(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Inspections |
> >
> >As for the size of N numbers, this is in the regs -- Section 45.22 (b)
> >says they only need to be 2" high for experimentals. Know this and
> >
> >Randall Henderson
> >RV-6
[snip]
> I'm sure this was a mis-type of Randall's. It's 3 inch lettering
> that is needed, unless you are an antique, or a replica of a plane over
> 30(?) years old. If you qualify for this, you get to use NX as a prefix
> (as in NX64GA).
>
You are correct, sir! I was in fact looking at the wrong reg, and it is as
you say. The applicable reg is 49.29 (b)(1)(iii), which says:
Marks at least 3 inches high may be displayed on an aircraft for
which an experimental certificate has been issued under Sec. 21.191(d) or
21.191(g) for operating as an exhibition aircraft or as an amateur-built
aircraft when the maximum cruising speed of the aircraft does not exceed 180
knots CAS;
Glad you pointed this out to me before I went out and made a fool of
myself to the examiner (but not before I stuck my foot in my mouth on
the rv-list :-) )
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | lewisjw(at)hqsocom.af.mil |
Who can give us the details on the loss of Steve Moseley and his RV-3 on
October 8, 1995. Why did his wing come off? Did Van see the crash from the
accompanying RV-4?. Saw the obit on p.11, Nov Sport Aviation.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Chandler <mauser(at)Claris.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Inspections |
The FARs say (According to Randall):
> aircraft when the maximum cruising speed of the aircraft does not
> exceed 180 knots CAS;
What about if you're faster than that?
--
"Wait a minute, you expect us innocent children to climb up dangerous
scaffolding and paint naked people all over a church? We'll do it!!"
-- Yakko Warner, Animaniacs
"Yeah, I've got ADD, you wanna make something of.... oooh, cool. Look!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JerryFlyRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Inspections |
>The FARs say (According to Randall):
>> aircraft when the maximum cruising speed of the aircraft does not
>> exceed 180 knots CAS;
>
>What about if you're faster than that?
12" numbers
Jerry springer N906GS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WStucklen(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Introduction |
>But I miss organized
>follow-up like Service Bulletins/Service Instructions etc. I recall
>seeing only one official AD, the one on the floor mounted rudder pedals.
What AD? I don't remember anything being listed. Any comments from anyone?
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Christopher Krieg" <christopher_krieg(at)aoce.austin.apple.com> |
>The FARs say (According to Randall):
>> aircraft when the maximum cruising speed of the aircraft does not
>> exceed 180 knots CAS;
>
>What about if you're faster than that?
>12" numbers
This is correct. All the Glasair IIs and IIIs we built had the 12" N numbers
due to their speed and it was required.
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
Question: Just how much priming (if any) is needed in an RV? Personally,
I'm priming everything with SW acid wash primer. It works great, and is very
bullet-proof. Obviously the aluminum angle, steel weldments and non-alclad
aluminum needs to be primed, but why alclad?
Cessna and others have been building single-engine aircraft for over 30 years
without piming the internal skins at all. (even where two skins form a lap
joint). I pilot and jump out of a C182 jumpship that was built in 1957.
None of the alclad is primed, and the few parts that had to be primed were
just hit with some Zinc Chromate. There is not one stich of corrosion
anywhere in that airframe.
Isn't all this priming overkill and extra weight?
Any comments greatly appreciated.
-- Ed Bundy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: RV Fuel Tank - senders |
>Like the man says to do, I drew out a picture with angles and dimensions,
cut
>the wires
>to the floats, put on the floats - now how to check them out ?
>
>I found that if I tied two thin cords (fishing line) to the wire at the
float
>end, one
>could be routed through to the exterior world via the top-most nut plate and
>hole, and
>the second through the lower-most nutplate and hole. Cleco the plate back
on,
>Connect
>the gauge and a battery, and by pulling on the cords move the float through
>its full
>range, checking that you get full deflections on the gauge.
Or your can install the fuel sender before the back plate goes on. Then you
can do the whole thing visually.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Registration Process |
I'd like to get some more info/war stories from you folks that have gone
through (or are knowledgeable about) the ameteur-built certification process.
What steps do you have to take, what documentation was required, what the
inspector looks for, etc.
I hope to be going through all of that in less than a year, and I'd like to
get my ducks (rivets?) in a row before that.
I have the info package from the FAA, however *most* of the information in
there isn't required anymore (like pre-closing surface inspections by an FAA
examiner, etc)
I'd love to hear what the "real deal" is from you guys.
Thanks,
- Ed Bundy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WStucklen(at)aol.com |
>> I've used all LCD displays in my RV and have had no problems with direct
>> sunlight or reflections.
>
>How about some photos of your installation?
>
>- Alan
>
>| Alan Reichert - Wannabe RV-6 Builder |
>| Plans #24179 |
>| http://www.clark.net/pub/reichera/home.html |
>
>
No prblem. I have posted a AutoCad file layout of the panel. Those on aol.com
can get it easily. Rest of you have to send self addresses stamped envolopes.
Same for the pictures as I have no means to scan them.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gil(at)rassp.hac.com (Gil Alexander) |
| Subject: | Cockpit computers (another one) |
RV-list byte heads ... :^)
Got mail last night from another source:
Micro Air - 817-465-6789
This guy is developing an integrated glass cockpit system (not just
the Panel PC portion), and is even using a RV6A as a test bed.
Gil Alexander
gil(at)rassp.hac.com
>RV-list computer guys,
> Panel-mounted computers were one of the "hot things" at Oshkosh
>this year (way behind the Garmin 90 GPS though!). I picked up two data
>sheets, and there may have been one or two more folks also offering "PCs
>for the cockpit".
>
>
>Two companies for you to call:-
>
>Avidyne - Flight Computer System. 1-800-AVIDYNE or 617-674-9300
>
>Panel mount with 5 inch (320x234 pixels) diag. Color Active-Matrix LCD
>
>
>Silvaire - Cockpit PC. 818-969-0347 slvaire(at)ibm.net (all caps? in data
>sheet)
>
>Panel mount with 5.6 inch (320x240 pixels) or 6.8 inch (640x480 pixels)
>diag. Color Active-Matrix LCD
>
>
>
> Both companies have multiple processor, disk and RAM options, and
>quite readable displays. It seemed to me that this was a case of "build
>it, and the software will come", since no software seemed to be available,
>just 'vaporware' for pretty demos.
>
> Let us all know what you find, perhaps you can write some RV
>specific s/w for us all .. :^) .......
>
>
>Gil Alexander, #20701, RV6A ... canopy frame
>gil(at)rassp.hac.com
>
>
>
>>Glad to see someone else is thinking about a pc-based LED panel "on the
>>panel". Just started laying out the instruments on my RV6 panel today... and
>>decided to keep room open for a VGA capable active matrix color LED display.
>> Had in mind buying moving map software and serial input GPS (see ad in this
>>month's Sport Aviation). Then figured I would disassemble a notebook PC, and
>>mount the LED panel on the RV panel. However, I am concerned about glare &
>>visibility in bright light. I have an IBM thinkpad with removable back to
>>allow use of the display panel as an overhead projector panel... works
>>well... and suggests that I might be able to put together a brighter
>>backlight for the RV panel (perhaps, a row of miniture flourescent tubes (as
>>used in battery powered camping lanterns?)). Any thoughts?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MGGX07C(at)prodigy.com ( SCOTT GESELE) |
What parts to prime is a question that each builder must decide for
himself. A Midwest builder who will hanger the aircraft might save
some weight and time by only priming the non-alclad aluminum and
steel. For someone who is located on the coast and plans to store
outside, the entire thing should be primed. Me, I live on Long
Island, so every square inch is primed using Variprime.
-Scott
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Introduction |
>
>>But I miss organized
>>follow-up like Service Bulletins/Service Instructions etc. I recall
>>seeing only one official AD, the one on the floor mounted rudder pedals.
>
>What AD? I don't remember anything being listed. Any comments from anyone?
>
>Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
>wstucklen(at)aol.com
>
Fred: there was a fix on the floor mounted rudder pedals. A gusset
was added to the uprights that the cables attach to. This was on older kits
and later kits had this modification done on them. Bob Skinner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Elon Ormsby" <Elon.Ormsby(at)quickmail.llnl.gov> |
Reply to: Crash of RV-3
At the time there was quite a bit of well meaning, but never-the-less,
premature hearsay posted to the list. My understanding was that Van was
understandably upset because of un-facts being posted to a "public" forum
(even before an official investigation was started) and also due to the loss
of a dear friend. The result was that no further speculation was posted and
we are all waiting for the "official" facts to be made available.
Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
>Question: Just how much priming (if any) is needed in an RV? Personally,
>I'm priming everything with SW acid wash primer. It works great, and is very
>bullet-proof. Obviously the aluminum angle, steel weldments and non-alclad
>aluminum needs to be primed, but why alclad?
>
>Cessna and others have been building single-engine aircraft for over 30 years
>without piming the internal skins at all. (even where two skins form a lap
>joint). I pilot and jump out of a C182 jumpship that was built in 1957.
> None of the alclad is primed, and the few parts that had to be primed were
>just hit with some Zinc Chromate. There is not one stich of corrosion
>anywhere in that airframe.
>
>Isn't all this priming overkill and extra weight?
>
>Any comments greatly appreciated.
>
>-- Ed Bundy
>
Ed: I asked this same question every time I pulled the trigger on
the spray gun. I had the same experience with my old Cessna 170
(unpainted). All of the corrosion was on the outside. (Of course, in any
airplane, there are some places that are very difficult if not impossible to
inspect.) I primed the whole inside on the RV-6 that I'm flying now with
Variprime. I live in Nebr., so corrosion should never be a problem (in my
lifetime), but I thought that it was "the airworthy way" to do things and I
thought that it might be a good selling point to someone who lives in a
costal area. (I know, I know. Who in his right mind would sell his RV?
I'm building a RV-6A now and hope to build several more before I cash in. I
like to build.)
On the 6-A I'm building now, I'm using Sherwin Williams wash primer
and am putting on one light coat. I've got the H.S. stab, vert. stab and
wing spars done. I've thought of just spraying where two pieces contact on
the rest of the airplane, but will probably end up doing the whole thing.
If you have trouble with mice, doing the whole thing might be a good idea.
Mice urine can really do a job on aluminum. (They probably wouldn't move in
because of the ucky color, would clash with their furniture.) BTW. I like
the Sherwin Williams primer better than Variprime. It seems tougher and it
is cheaper. Variprime is somewhat porous and if you handle it with dirty
hands the surface will pick up dirt. SW is also more resistant to acetone.
Bob Skinner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Chris Ruble <cruble(at)cisco.com> |
>
> The RV-7 is a "POSSIBLE" 4 seat A/C. Van indicated that the RV-7 has been
> reserved for such an A/C should it get developed. Hence the RV-8!
> As spoken by Van at OSH-95 VAF Dinner Party
>
OK...as long as we are on the subject of missing model numbers,
does anybody know what happened to the Boeing 717? Those with the
correct answer will get extra airplane-geek cool-points.*
*Employees of Boeing not eligible.
*Void where prohibited.
*Offer expires 1-1-96
*Some assembly required
*Ages two to toothless
*Containes small parts
*Must be accompanied by FAA certified pilot
*For entertainment purposes only
*No purchase necessary
*No salesman will call
*And a Partridg in a pear tree
Chris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: RV Fuel Tank - senders |
>
> Or your can install the fuel sender before the back plate goes on. Then you
> can do the whole thing visually.
>
> Ed
YES! I strongly recommend this. I closed my first tank before adjusting
the sender, what a hassle. Second one was easy since I wised up and
adjusted the sender with the back baffle off.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Elevator Cracks |
For those who are interested, The RVator published an article in the 12/89
issue about "Cracks in Control Surface Trailing Edges" and an article
entitled "Elevator & Rudder Stiffener Supplement" in the same issue. It
appears that this cracking issue was identified in 1989. This book "14 Years
of The RVator" has really come in handy! (Sorry for the delayed response Dana
- couldn't find your e-mail address.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Vision Microsystems Fuel Level |
<01BACE2D.E866A080@md-007.rog.ar.ispnet.com>
| From: | Jack Abell <abell(at)rand.org> |
For B. F. Gibbons:
I just ordered the Vision Microsystems fuel level monitoring system from
Van's this morning ($322.00). The problem is that I won't know for quite
awhile how well it works out. I think the VM-1000 is very popular among
homebuilders and has a good reputation. I ordered the fuel level
monitoring system without the VM-1000 because I only needed the hardware to
install in the wings. The rest can come later (VM-1000 and EC-100).
I'm disturbed by the silence on the net in response to your inquiry.
Jack Abell
RV-6A Rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ross Mickey <rmickey(at)POPD.ix.netcom.com> |
Please post your mailing address so I can send you a SAS envelope
Thanks
Ross Mickey
>
>>> I've used all LCD displays in my RV and have had no problems with direct
>>> sunlight or reflections.
>>
>>How about some photos of your installation?
>>
>>- Alan
>>
>>| Alan Reichert - Wannabe RV-6 Builder |
>>| Plans #24179 |
>>| http://www.clark.net/pub/reichera/home.html |
>>
>>
>
>No prblem. I have posted a AutoCad file layout of the panel. Those on aol.com
>can get it easily. Rest of you have to send self addresses stamped envolopes.
>Same for the pictures as I have no means to scan them.
>
>Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
>wstucklen(at)aol.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
Ed,
FYI - I do not prime any alclad parts which are internal (e.g. inside skins)
The only reason I prime the outside is to paint it. I do prime all non-
alclad al and all steel weldments, gear legs, motor mounts etc.
Dan Boudro
Albuquerque, NM
RV-4 N9167Z
On Wed, 20 Dec 1995 aol.com!EBundy2620(at)matronics.com wrote:
> Question: Just how much priming (if any) is needed in an RV? Personally,
> I'm priming everything with SW acid wash primer. It works great, and is very
> bullet-proof. Obviously the aluminum angle, steel weldments and non-alclad
> aluminum needs to be primed, but why alclad?
>
> Cessna and others have been building single-engine aircraft for over 30 years
> without piming the internal skins at all. (even where two skins form a lap
> joint). I pilot and jump out of a C182 jumpship that was built in 1957.
> None of the alclad is primed, and the few parts that had to be primed were
> just hit with some Zinc Chromate. There is not one stich of corrosion
> anywhere in that airframe.
>
> Isn't all this priming overkill and extra weight?
>
> Any comments greatly appreciated.
>
> -- Ed Bundy
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Inspections (was Re: Lycoming Engine Source (fwd)) |
> If I take of that data plate and replace it with an "Experimental" one - does't
it mean
> I'm risking a 40 hour fly off rather than a 24 hour one that seems to come with
using a
> certified Engine/Prop combination ???
I guess that doesn't seem like that big a deal to me. I'm looking
forward to flying and testing the hell out of it. But I can see how
this might be a concern. At any rate, if your engine is obviously
modified but doesn't say so, it could interfere with your sign-off. I'd
just as soon make sure all my ducks are in line so it goes smoothly.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Cliff Carpenter <70633.355(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Sky-Tec Starter Winner! |
All,
Thanks for the enthusiastic response to my offer. All names were put in a bowl
and my family drew names until one came up twice. BILL GARRETT from PA. is the
winner. Talked to his wife and she said the starter will find a nice warm
reception in PA. Of course Bill was outside at the time shoveling 8' of the
white stuff!!
Happy Holidays to all,
Cliff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johnson, Steve" <spjohnson(at)msmail.mmmg.com> |
| Subject: | Cockpit computers (another one) |
>RV-list byte heads ... :^)
> Got mail last night from another source:
>Micro Air - 817-465-6789
> This guy is developing an integrated glass cockpit system (not just
>the Panel PC portion), and is even using a RV6A as a test bed.
>Gil Alexander
>gil(at)rassp.hac.com
Just a thought. The issue of Kitplanes which focused on panel ergonomics and
used the F-15 as an example showed the complete electronic panel. If you look
closely, you will notice that there are miniature mechanical gyros for backup.
This is on a "cost no object" system.
Steve Johnson
waiting on the RV-8
spjohnson(at)mmm.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CAP10ZOOM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Merry Christmas |
>From all of us at US Aviator magazine...
Merry Christmas!!!
Jim and Vicki Campbell
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
| Subject: | Re: Registration Process |
>I'd like to get some more info/war stories from you folks that have gone
>through (or are knowledgeable about) the ameteur-built certification process.
> What steps do you have to take, what documentation was required, what the
>inspector looks for, etc.
>
>I hope to be going through all of that in less than a year, and I'd like to
>get my ducks (rivets?) in a row before that.
>
>I have the info package from the FAA, however *most* of the information in
>there isn't required anymore (like pre-closing surface inspections by an FAA
>examiner, etc)
>
>I'd love to hear what the "real deal" is from you guys.
>
>Thanks,
>- Ed Bundy
>
>
Ed, it depends on the inspector. Some are SOB's, some are great.
Mine was done through the Cincinnati FSDO. They were great. I did what
they told me to do regarding paperwork. Thay gave me a detailed package of
exactly what they wanted and the inspector even reviewed it a week prior to
the actual
inspection so there would be no hitch.
Early in my construction I contacted the examiner and asked what he wanted
to see, i.e. logs, pictures, EAA tech counselor signoffs etc. My guy liked
pictures and tech. couselor sign offs. (He knows and respects the local EAA
tech counselor).
The actual inspection took 45 minutes and was basically paperwork.
The theory here is the Feds make it legal. You make it safe.
I guess the bottom line is find out what the guy that will do your airplane
wants and then do it. Make his job easy and you might get the same in return.
One suggestion. Request approval of all flight modes you want i.e. day,
night, vfr, ifr the first time so you don't have to have them come back.
It's a paperwork hassel for them.
Regards:
Rusty Gossard
RV-4 N47RG Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Registration Process |
I've been throught this once and I bet my experience is different from
anyone elses. I asked the FAA to inspect my RV-4 instead of one of the
designated inspectors because I wanted my repairman's certificate at the
same time. Two inspectors came to the hanger; they wanted to see my
documentation/photos and said they were particularly interested in
pictures of the AC with me in them at various stages of the construction.
They then did a walk around/inspection of the RV with the cowl off. They
asked a few questions about the construction which I answered to the
best of my ability. They also asked me to explain how I would go about
tuning the Lycoming. They were very polite I was VERY polite. I was
signed off for a 10 hour not more than 50 mi; 40 hour solo; and full
certification all at the same time ( I had a certified Lycoming and
non-cert. wood prop combo). The whole thing took less than 45 min. I feel
they were only doing their job and I was trying to comply to all the
regs. This is NOT an adversarial procedure and any attempting to make
it so is doing us all a diservice.
dan boudro
Albuquerque, NM
RV-4 N9167Z
On Wed, 20 Dec 1995 aol.com!EBundy2620(at)matronics.com wrote:
> I'd like to get some more info/war stories from you folks that have gone
> through (or are knowledgeable about) the ameteur-built certification process.
> What steps do you have to take, what documentation was required, what the
> inspector looks for, etc.
>
> I hope to be going through all of that in less than a year, and I'd like to
> get my ducks (rivets?) in a row before that.
>
> I have the info package from the FAA, however *most* of the information in
> there isn't required anymore (like pre-closing surface inspections by an FAA
> examiner, etc)
>
> I'd love to hear what the "real deal" is from you guys.
>
> Thanks,
> - Ed Bundy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | A200hpRV6(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Sky-Tec Starter,Free |
If you have not given it away yet i will take it off your hands!!! I can be
reached at :
(503) 666-3838 Troutdale Aircraft Services II. My name is Ron Coleman,
owner. I am currently building and RV-6. It would be perfect. If there is
anything I can help you with please call.
Ron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Day" <sday(at)pharmcomp.com> |
Hopefully you guys don't mind a bit of humor on this list every once in a
while (especially when it pertains to one of our hobbies :)
I found this on the web the other night, thought some of you might get a
chuckle out of it. Supposedly these are the best 'actual' transmissions
made at the Chicago O'Hare airport.
I would have to say my favorites are: 7,8,13,17,19
Top Twenty Actual Transimssions Made in the O'Hare TRACON
20. "Expect Lower at the end of this transission."
19. "Citation 123, if you quite calling me center, I'll quit calling
you twin Cessna."
18. "About three miles ahead you've got traffic 12 o'clock, five
miles."
17. "If you hear me, traffic no longer a factor."
16. "You got him on TCAS? Great. When you're seven in trail, resume
normal speed and call Chicago Center on 120.12."
15. "I am way too busy for anybody to cancel on me."
14. "You got any more smart remarks, we can be doing this over South
Bend . . . go ahead."
13. "You're gonna have to key the mike. I can't see you when you nod
your head."
12. "it's too late for Louisville. We're going back to O'Hare."
11. "Put your compass on 'E" and get out of my airspace."
10. "Don't anybody maintain anything."
9. "Caution wake turbulence you're following a heavy 12 o'clock, three
. . no, let's make it five miles."
8. "Climb like you're life depends on it . . . because it does."
7. "If you want more room Captain, push your seat back."
6. "For radar identification throw your jumpseat rider out the
window."
5. "Air Force One, I told you to expedite."
4. "Listen up gentlemen, or something's gonna happen that none of us
wants to see. Besides that, you're (ticken') me off!."
3. "Leave five on the glide, have a nice ride, tower inside,
twenty-six nine . . . see ya!"
2. "Japan Air Ten Heavy, how 'bout a radio check?" (Response - -
"Rogah, switching!")
1. "Turn in and take over . . you know the rest."
-Steve Day
sday(at)pharmcomp.com
(CK ID - RV6a RV for short)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gil(at)rassp.hac.com (Gil Alexander) |
| Subject: | Re: Registration Process |
>>
>
>Ed, it depends on the inspector. Some are SOB's, some are great.
>Mine was done through the Cincinnati FSDO. They were great. I did what
>they told me to do regarding paperwork. Thay gave me a detailed package of
>exactly what they wanted and the inspector even reviewed it a week prior to
>the actual
>inspection so there would be no hitch.
>
>Early in my construction I contacted the examiner and asked what he wanted
>to see, i.e. logs, pictures, EAA tech counselor signoffs etc. My guy liked
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Rusty,
How did you document this? I have been told that the EAA does not
allow it's Tech. Counselors to sign any log books, etc. Did you just make
your own entry in the logbook?
It seems to be a much more important item now with AVEMCO's first
flight coverage insurance program that requires these inspections and the
Flight Advisor program.
Gil Alexander
gil(at)rassp.hac.com
Tech. Counselor-in-waiting, EAA Chapter 40 ... just waiting for the paperwork
to get through the EAA :^)
>pictures and tech. couselor sign offs. (He knows and respects the local EAA
>tech counselor).
>
*** snip ***
>
>Regards:
>Rusty Gossard
>RV-4 N47RG Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | empennage kit options |
Hi,
I'd just like to double check that I completely understand.
As far as I know, these are the only options/decisions for the
empennage kit (RV6A):
Option What I'm getting
===================================== ================
- electric vs manual trim electric
- rudder bottom with or without light with light
- skin thickness thick (like me)
Am I missing anything???
Also, is there any decision in reference to Van's servo for
the electric trim? Are there other servos that people use
which are worth considering? If so, do I need to install
the servo during empennage construction or can it be done later?
Thanks in advance (might order any day),
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Don Karl karl@dg-rtp.dg.com (919)248-5915
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)idacom.hp.com> |
| Subject: | Cockpit computers (another one) |
> Just a thought. The issue of Kitplanes which focused on panel ergonomics and
> used the F-15 as an example showed the complete electronic panel. If you look
> closely, you will notice that there are miniature mechanical gyros for backup.
> This is on a "cost no object" system.
>
> Steve Johnson
>
> waiting on the RV-8
> spjohnson(at)mmm.com
>
Steve:
Good point. I don't think I'd feel comfortable doing serious IFR without
a backup AI. But then, I wouldn't feel comfortable doing serious IFR
without a backup engine, either! Maybe I'm just conservative...
Tedd McHenry
Edmonton
(gathering tools and ideas)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | J.Ken_Hitchmough(at)magic.ca (J.Ken Hitchmough) |
| Subject: | Re: Vision Microsystems Fuel Level |
>Has anyone installed the vision Microsystems fuel level system? I'm =
>interested in it because of the look of the fuel gauge in the panel. I =
>like the simplicity of the 'typical' fuel senders like Van sells, but =
>don't care much for the look of the gauges. Any experience good or bad?
I Installed a some in a couple of AirBeetles.Worked well, looked good.
You are aware I presume that they use capacitive senders which need to
installed during tank construction.
Ken
--
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Magic Online Services Toronto Inc. (416) 591-6490
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Carbs/injectors/landing lites |
Another couple of subjects to keep the ball rolling. Pro and con on
carbs vs. fuel injection. I'm trying to decide which to use on my next RV.
I'm going to put a 180 Lyc in it. I guess I have enough experience with
carbs. I guess my question is: is the additional investment for fuel
injection worthwhile when factoring in initial cost and also the higher
costs of overhaul? Which fuel injection system seems to be the most reliable?
Landing lights. I like to fly with mine on for safety. I'm looking
into a "pulse light" set up for both increased visibility and hopefully to
increase the bulb life. I flew with them on during my test period and they
lasted around 16 hours. The second set, I used only when night flying and
landing and I don't think they lasted over 1-1 1/2 hours. This last set
lasted 7 1/2 hours. I have the filiments mounted vertically as is
reccommended. On the last set I also placed a bead of silicon around both
mounting points (front and back of bulb). I'm using GE 4509 100 watt bulbs
in the wing tips. The tip enclosure has some openings for air to get to
bulb. An article in Sport Aviation described a "pulse light" system using a
school buss flasher and claimed an increased bulb life. Are any of you
using this or the factory Pulse Light system. Halogen replacements have
been reccommended but I haven't found any the size of the 4509. Can't go
any larger dia. than this. Thanks, Bob Skinner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JerryFlyRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FAA Inspections (was Re: Lycoming Engine Source (fwd)) |
>> If I take of that data plate and replace it with an "Experimental" one -
>does't it mean
>> I'm risking a 40 hour fly off rather than a 24 hour one that seems to come
>with using a
>> certified Engine/Prop combination ???
>
>I guess that doesn't seem like that big a deal to me. I'm looking
>forward to flying and testing the hell out of it. But I can see how
>this might be a concern. At any rate, if your engine is obviously
>modified but doesn't say so, it could interfere with your sign-off. I'd
>just as soon make sure all my ducks are in line so it goes smoothly.
>
>Randall Henderson
>RV-6
>
>
>
You do not have to have a data plate on your engine to get your airplane
certified if you can not show that all AD's are complied with you will have
to surrender your data plate then your engine becomes a "Joe Blow" engine
and yes you will have to do forty hours.
Jerry Springe RV-6 N906GS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JerryFlyRV(at)aol.com |
****Stuff deleted*****
> None of the alclad is primed, and the few parts that had to be primed were
>just hit with some Zinc Chromate. There is not one stich of corrosion
>anywhere in that airframe.
>
>Isn't all this priming overkill and extra weight?
>
>Any comments greatly appreciated.
>
>-- Ed Bundy
On the other hand Ed, I have seen a early 60's Cessna that the main wing
spar was just powder in spots from corrosion and also a early Beech Muskater
had a rotton wing from no primer. You don't have to put primer on very heavy
to be effective and for what little extra weight it adds I think it is worth
it.
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First Flight July 14,1989
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 14 Years of The RV-Ator |
Once again I would like to thank all those who responded to our special sale
last week on our last copies of the 14 Years of the Rvator book. Due to a
single notice on this list, we sold out our last 25 copies in less than a
day.
As I mentioned before, we have none left. But we're still getting calls.
If you want to get a book, please call Van's. They still have some in stock.
It is listed in the accessories catalog, but you can just order it by name.
Unfortunately, they won't be offering the discount price that was mentioned
in my notice. The regular price is $25.95.
Thank you very much to all those that ordered then or in the past. If you
have any further questions, you are welcome to call me at (505) 865-3466.
Merry Christmas everyone,
Andy Gold
Easy Publishing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TommyLewis(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Fuselage jig needed in Dallas/Ft Worth area |
I am in the process of finishing up the wings and the fuselage kit is
scheduled to be shipped in Jan. Does anyone in the Dallas/Ft Worth area have
a fuselage jig looking for a project? If so, reply directly to
TommyLewis(at)AOL.COM. Thanks - Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage jig needed in Dallas/Ft Worth area |
Tom,
you didn't say 4 or 6. I've got a 4 jig (steel); your welcome to use it
but I would want it back. Getting it back and forth would be the problem.
Dan Boudro
Albuquerque, NM
RV-4 N9167Z
On Thu, 21 Dec 1995 aol.com!TommyLewis(at)matronics.com wrote:
> I am in the process of finishing up the wings and the fuselage kit is
> scheduled to be shipped in Jan. Does anyone in the Dallas/Ft Worth area have
> a fuselage jig looking for a project? If so, reply directly to
> TommyLewis(at)AOL.COM. Thanks - Tom
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Pulse Lite landing lite systems |
A friend of mine has implimented a 'pulse lite' system using the school
bus flasher, and he likes it. It has been very reliable. He has the
Old's landing light in each wing, and the school bus flasher alternately
flashes them. The system has been installed for almost a year and a half
now, and I don't think he's had a single failure of either the bulbs or
the flasher.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Capacitance Fuel Level Systems |
Recently someone asked about experiences using the Vision Microsystems
fuel level system. Though I did not install it, I seriously contemplated
either the Vision Microsystems or the ELectronics INternational system.
I finally decided that installing one of these systems would be too much
trouble. The problem is that the fuel sender is a long straight tube
that needs to be run fron the bottom inboard end of the tank to the top
outboard end. This would require fabricating some sort of fitting on
each inner rib to secure the capacitance tube. In addition, it looked
like I would need to machine some kind of special mount for the inboard
end rib.
And finally, I thought that the whole system cost far too much money.
FOr example, with the Electronics International system, by the time you
buy the guage and both senders, you've spent $800.
I ended up installing the standard SW senders.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
>inspect.) I primed the whole inside on the RV-6 that I'm flying now with
>Variprime. I live in Nebr., so corrosion should never be a problem (in my
>lifetime), but I thought that it was "the airworthy way" to do things and I
>thought that it might be a good selling point to someone who lives in a
>costal area. (I know, I know. Who in his right mind would sell his RV?
>I'm building a RV-6A now and hope to build several more before I cash in. I
>like to build.)
> On the 6-A I'm building now, I'm using Sherwin Williams wash primer
>and am putting on one light coat. I've got the H.S. stab, vert. stab and
>wing spars done. I've thought of just spraying where two pieces contact on
>the rest of the airplane, but will probably end up doing the whole thing.
>If you have trouble with mice, doing the whole thing might be a good idea.
>Mice urine can really do a job on aluminum. (They probably wouldn't move in
>because of the ucky color, would clash with their furniture.)
Thanks Bob. You make a lot of good points. I started out priming every
single piece, and by the time I finished with the empenage, I decided it was
overkill. (good idea concentrating the extra weight in the tail, huh? :) )
All the locals around here swear by Sherwin Williams wash primer, I haven't
used Variprime so I can't compare them. I do know that I like the SW though.
So now I'm priming all the non-alclad, steel, and any "critical" parts with
SW. Any time two pieces overlap, I usually hit it with a shot of aerosol
Zinc Chromate (much quicker, and no clean up) and I may or may not shoot the
inside of the fuse w/SW.
BTW, what did you use for the interior of the cockpit?
Thanks again,
-- Ed Bundy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
>FYI - I do not prime any alclad parts which are internal (e.g. inside skins)
>The only reason I prime the outside is to paint it. I do prime all non-
>alclad al and all steel weldments, gear legs, motor mounts etc.
Dan, thanks for the info. I've never seen anyone venture this opinion
before. It makes perfect sense to me - I've worked on a lot of Cessna's and
that's the way they've always done it. I've seen some corrosion on ones that
have spent 30 years outside at California coastal airports, but that's a
pretty severe environment. (and not one that I'm going to subject MY baby
to... )
-- Ed Bundy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Registration Process |
>Early in my construction I contacted the examiner and asked what he wanted
>to see, i.e. logs, pictures, EAA tech counselor signoffs etc. My guy liked
>pictures and tech. couselor sign offs. (He knows and respects the local EAA
>tech counselor).
>
>
Thanks very much for the info! Sounds like you did it the smart way.
-- Ed Bundy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Registration Process |
>I've been throught this once and I bet my experience is different from
>anyone elses. I asked the FAA to inspect my RV-4 instead of one of the
>designated inspectors because I wanted my repairman's certificate at the
>same time. Two inspectors came to the hanger; they wanted to see my
>documentation/photos and said they were particularly interested in
>pictures of the AC with me in them at various stages of the construction.
Thanks very much. I've got lots of photos, but none with me in them. Never
thought of that. Do you have to the FAA do a second inspection for the
repairman's cert if a D.I. does the initial inspection?
-- Ed Bundy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Yablon <brian(at)lanart.com> |
| Subject: | Aviation landing lights stink? |
Bob Skinner wrote:
> Landing lights... I flew with them on during my test period and
> they lasted around 16 hours. The second set, I used only when night
> flying and landing and I don't think they lasted over 1-1 1/2 hours.
> This last set lasted 7 1/2 hours.
I've had a similar experience with landing lights in other aircraft
I've flown.
Can anyone explain why I can drive my car for six years, mostly at
night, with headlights on, in all types of weather, enduring constant
road vibrations and hitting occasional potholes of the sort that would
knock your dentures out, and NEVER lose a headlight. But if I take an
airplane out for a few hours of night flying, I can be sure I'll need
to replace an expensive landing light.
Are landing lights operated at such higher brightnesses than car
headlights that they burn out faster? Besides the weight penalty, is
there a good reason not to use car headlights in an RV?
-Brian Yablon
brian(at)lanart.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Re: Registration Process |
>--------------
>>Early in my construction I contacted the examiner and asked what he wanted
>>to see, i.e. logs, pictures, EAA tech counselor signoffs etc. My guy liked
>>pictures and tech. couselor sign offs. (He knows and respects the local EAA
>>tech counselor).
>>
>
>Thanks very much for the info! Sounds like you did it the smart way.
>
>-- Ed Bundy
>--------------
You know, this brings something to mind that I had never really thought about
before. Everyone kind of shakes in their boots with the thought of the FAA
coming to inspect a new homebuilt, but what's the worst they're really gonna
say? "I know that you just spent $50,000, 8 years of your life, and got
a divorce over this thing, but I don't really like the way you set these rivits
here. Sorry, you'll have to scrap the whole thing." I don't think so. Has
anyone ever been completely denied registration, I mean after they polished
up a couple of those rivit heads, etc.?
Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WStucklen(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Introduction |
>>
> Fred: there was a fix on the floor mounted rudder pedals. A gusset
>was added to the uprights that the cables attach to. This was on older kits
>and later kits had this modification done on them. Bob Skinner
>
Bob:
Thanks, now I remember reading that quite a while back in the RVator. (Still
haven't got the current issue). My kit had the fix when it came through.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TommyLewis(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Carbs/injectors/landing lites |
A number of the RVs in the N. Texas area have installed a light pulse unit
from JC Whitney catalog. The unit works well, is cheap, and the planes sure
show up with the pulsing lights. This is what we are planning on installing
in our RV6a. I do not have the catalog handy.
Merry Christmas - Tom & Bonnie Lewis
TommyLewis(at)AOL.COM
RV6a - skinning wings, fuselage scheduled for Jan
N967RV reserved
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WStucklen(at)aol.com |
>Please post your mailing address so I can send you a SAS envelope
>
>Thanks
>Ross Mickey
Ross:
For photos and/or an autocad file of the panel on my RV-6A, send a SASE to
the following address:
Fred Stucklen
148 Winkler Rd.
E. Windsor, Ct. 06088
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TommyLewis(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuselage jig needed in Dallas/Ft Worth area |
Sorry, I should have added I am looking for an RV6 fuselage jig. Again, you
can reply directly to TommyLewis(at)AOL.COM - Thanks, happly holiday - Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gil(at)rassp.hac.com (Gil Alexander) |
| Subject: | Re: Carbs/injectors/landing lites |
*** cut out lots of carb/injector/landing light stuff ***
> Halogen replacements have
>been reccommended but I haven't found any the size of the 4509. Can't go
>any larger dia. than this. Thanks, Bob Skinner
Bob,
.... there is an aviation halogen version of this bulb. It is the
4509Q, and you'll find it listed in the T-A-P adverts. This is the bulb
used in the BAC landing light kits, and apparently has a much longer life
than the 4509 bulbs, but costs more.
Gil Alexander
RV6A, #20701
gil(at)rassp.hac.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stanley C. Blanton" <75472.372(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Carbs/injectors/lights |
One approach to increased bulb life is put forth by Bob Nucholls
(770.552(at)compuserve.com). In his Aeroelectric Connection publication he proposes
running a small current continually through the bulbs to minimize current
inrushes. This 'kep warm' concept would seem to have some merit as demonstrated
by the shorter life span of your bulbs that were cylced on/off rather that left
on continuously.
Stan Blanton
RV-6 Fuselage bulkheads
75472.372(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: 14 Years of The RV-Ator |
I have an extra copy of "14 years of the RVator" that I'll sell it to the
first taker, for Easy's special price of $19.95 + $2.50 shipping. E-mail
or call me at:
Randall Henderson
randall(at)edt.com
(503) 690-1234w
(503) 297-5045h
>
> Once again I would like to thank all those who responded to our special sale
> last week on our last copies of the 14 Years of the Rvator book. Due to a
> single notice on this list, we sold out our last 25 copies in less than a
> day.
>
> As I mentioned before, we have none left. But we're still getting calls.
>
> If you want to get a book, please call Van's. They still have some in stock.
> It is listed in the accessories catalog, but you can just order it by name.
> Unfortunately, they won't be offering the discount price that was mentioned
> in my notice. The regular price is $25.95.
>
> Thank you very much to all those that ordered then or in the past. If you
> have any further questions, you are welcome to call me at (505) 865-3466.
>
> Merry Christmas everyone,
>
> Andy Gold
> Easy Publishing
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
>
>>inspect.) I primed the whole inside on the RV-6 that I'm flying now with
>>Variprime. I live in Nebr., so corrosion should never be a problem (in my
>>lifetime), but I thought that it was "the airworthy way" to do things and I
>>thought that it might be a good selling point to someone who lives in a
>>costal area. (I know, I know. Who in his right mind would sell his RV?
>>I'm building a RV-6A now and hope to build several more before I cash in. I
>>like to build.)
>> On the 6-A I'm building now, I'm using Sherwin Williams wash primer
>>and am putting on one light coat. I've got the H.S. stab, vert. stab and
>>wing spars done. I've thought of just spraying where two pieces contact on
>>the rest of the airplane, but will probably end up doing the whole thing.
>>If you have trouble with mice, doing the whole thing might be a good idea.
>>Mice urine can really do a job on aluminum. (They probably wouldn't move in
>>because of the ucky color, would clash with their furniture.)
>
>Thanks Bob. You make a lot of good points. I started out priming every
>single piece, and by the time I finished with the empenage, I decided it was
>overkill. (good idea concentrating the extra weight in the tail, huh? :) )
> All the locals around here swear by Sherwin Williams wash primer, I haven't
>used Variprime so I can't compare them. I do know that I like the SW though.
>
>So now I'm priming all the non-alclad, steel, and any "critical" parts with
>SW. Any time two pieces overlap, I usually hit it with a shot of aerosol
>Zinc Chromate (much quicker, and no clean up) and I may or may not shoot the
>inside of the fuse w/SW.
>
>BTW, what did you use for the interior of the cockpit?
>
>Thanks again,
>-- Ed Bundy
>
Ed: As I primed the whole airplane before construction, the interior had
Variprime on it. It did get smudged and dirty in places so I cleaned the
surface with paint prep, went over the Vari with Scotchbrite and re-cleaned.
I then shot PPG epoxy primer and top coated with Durathane. This is what
the exterior of the plane is painted with. I don't have any experience top
coating the SW wash primer. It does have kind of a vynal feel to it. I
don't know how Scotch briting older SW primer and top coating works and have
wondered if I should stay with the Variprime on interior surfaces that will
be finished with the urethane as I know how that will turn out. Does anyone
have experience top coating SW after it has been several months (or years)
since it was put on? Bob Skinner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carbs/injectors/landing lites |
>*** cut out lots of carb/injector/landing light stuff ***
>
>> Halogen replacements have
>>been reccommended but I haven't found any the size of the 4509. Can't go
>>any larger dia. than this. Thanks, Bob Skinner
>
>Bob,
> .... there is an aviation halogen version of this bulb. It is the
>4509Q, and you'll find it listed in the T-A-P adverts. This is the bulb
>used in the BAC landing light kits, and apparently has a much longer life
>than the 4509 bulbs, but costs more.
>
>Gil Alexander
>RV6A, #20701
>gil(at)rassp.hac.com
>
>Gil: Thanks for the reply. Yes, I have two of the Q4509 bulbs sitting on
the shelf. They are supposed to last four times longer than the 4509's at,
I beleive, three times the cost. I thought that I would wait to install
these higher priced bulbs until I can figure out how to make the cheap ones
last longer. Not only do these things get expensive, it is a pain to make
the change. (really cold hanger this time of year in Nebraska.)
Thanks, Bob Skinner
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Carbs/injectors/lights |
>One approach to increased bulb life is put forth by Bob Nucholls
>(770.552(at)compuserve.com). In his Aeroelectric Connection publication he
proposes
>running a small current continually through the bulbs to minimize current
>inrushes. This 'kep warm' concept would seem to have some merit as demonstrated
>by the shorter life span of your bulbs that were cylced on/off rather that left
>on continuously.
>
>Stan Blanton
>RV-6 Fuselage bulkheads
>75472.372(at)compuserve.com
>
>Stan, Thanks for the reply. I do have a copy of the AeroElectric
Connection and have talked to Bob. I think he is working on a solid state
flashing unit that might accomplish the same thing. I wonder what the
difference in operating life would be between the "keep warm" circuit and
just leaving the lights on all of the time? Also, in the last copy of the
Rocky Mountain Rvator they had an article on a 12 volt halogen 50 watt bulb
that has a life of 5,000 hours. It's 2" in dia. and draws 3 amps and costs
$ 9.95. If anyone is interested, I'll type in the article as written. The
article originated from th "Van's Airforce, Tri-State Wing" Thanks Bob
Skinner
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | S-TEC Autopilot Installations |
| From: | Jack Abell <abell(at)rand.org> |
I'm probably going to install an S-TEC System 50 autopilot in my RV-6A.
I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has installed this or another
S-TEC system in an RV. Are the servos always installed in the fuselage?
Where? How reliable is the system? How much maintenance costs do people
usually incur for these systems? What is the usual acquisition price?
How well do they perform? What kinds of problems do people usually have
with them, if any?
Thanks.
Jack Abell
RV-6A Rudder
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Carbs/injectors/landing lites |
In regards to using "car headlights" for landing lights, I suppose it is O.K -
in fact I
think thats what Bob Olds uses in his kits. But they are a bit ugly !
I'm using a halogen "driving light" from HI-LO auto parts - its about 6"x 2" and
hence
needs a much smaller, neater hole in the L.E. to fit than does a regular Headlight
-
they were about $25 for 2 of them - Used 1 only, so I gave one to another RV
builder...so thats about $12.50 per plane. Unit is 50 Watts which seem to be plenty
- at
least it can really light up the neighbor's front room accross the road when I
light it
up in the garage!!
Mounted it on a couple of .063 angles between the two outboard ribs - using bolts
through some rubber hose (compress either more or less as needed to adjust for
angle)
It came with an ABS plastic case (lightweight) which I sawed in half so I could
get in
the back way to change the bulb when needed by reaching in through the wing tip.
The
plexiglas outer lens is mounted "permanantly" with rtv. Lens was made per Tony
B. (may
he be eternally blessed!!) using a former and the oven.
Seasons Greetings ---- Rob. (sanding cowl - bored - want to get to the paint!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: 14 Years of The RV-Ator |
OK I sold it. Thanks!
Randall Henderson
RV-6
>
> I have an extra copy of "14 years of the RVator" that I'll sell it to the
> first taker, for Easy's special price of $19.95 + $2.50 shipping. E-mail
> or call me at:
>
> Randall Henderson
> randall(at)edt.com
> (503) 690-1234w
> (503) 297-5045h
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Day" <sday(at)pharmcomp.com> |
I hate to use the list to sell something, but I'm gonna loose the hangar my
rv6a (working on left wing) is being built in. Not even sure if any of you
guys like those 'ultralight' things anyway. I love'em personally, but I've
really fallen for the rv6a, hehe. (not saying I sleep with the rivet gun or
anything) Anyway, I feel I'm offering an awful lot for a very little price,
so please take a look. Maybe you know someone who is interested.
1988 Quicksilver GT-400
Rotax 503 dual carbs/ignition 150hrs TTSN
Airframe has about 400hrs
3 blade IVO-prop (ground adjustable pitch)
Extra 8 gallon tank (total of 13-14 gallons)
Chromoly gear struts
Electric Start
Balistic Chute
Disk Brakes
Pod/windscreen
Dual EGT
Dual CHT
Tach
Hobbs meter
Altimeter
Airspeed
Dacron in fair to good condition
Hangared for last 5 years
I need to get $4000 for this thing. Its not in perfect condition, but its a
good bird that is really fun to fly.
-Thanks for looking.
P.S. I really am going to loose the hangar if I can't get enough money
together. I've got till March 1st 1996
-Steve Day
sday(at)pharmcomp.com
(CK ID - RV6a RV for short)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com (Doug Weiler) |
| Subject: | Rudder Pedal Failure |
RV Listers:
Got a call the other day from our local MN Wing tech counselor Tom Berge.
Tom has an RV-6 with a little over 600 hrs on it. During a landing last
week, he experienced a failure of his left rudder pedal. The .035 4130
steel pedal broke at a weld. He was fortunate this happened just as he was
turning off the active runway and not during the rollout at high speed (he
probably would have ended up in a snowbank). The result was a very low
speed ground loop without hitting anything.
Tom contacted Van's and they are looking into this matter. It don't know if
there was been a past history of this type of failure but Van's seemed quite
concerned. This might be an area that should be inspected on flying RV-6s
and -6As. Since I am building a -4, I'm not familiar with the details of
the -6 design.
Tom is not on the RV-List, but if anyone would like more details, let me
know and I'll refer you to him.
Doug
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
= Doug Weiler, pres. MN Wing Van's AirForce, RV-4 wings in progress
= 347 Krattley Lane
= Hudson, WI 54016
= 715-386-1239
= email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gil(at)rassp.hac.com (Gil Alexander) |
| Subject: | Landing lites - real data |
*** snip ***
>>
>>Stan, Thanks for the reply. I do have a copy of the AeroElectric
>Connection and have talked to Bob. I think he is working on a solid state
>flashing unit that might accomplish the same thing. I wonder what the
>difference in operating life would be between the "keep warm" circuit and
>just leaving the lights on all of the time? Also, in the last copy of the
>Rocky Mountain Rvator they had an article on a 12 volt halogen 50 watt bulb
>that has a life of 5,000 hours. It's 2" in dia. and draws 3 amps and costs
>$ 9.95. If anyone is interested, I'll type in the article as written. The
>article originated from th "Van's Airforce, Tri-State Wing" Thanks Bob
>Skinner
Lit-up RV-listers ...
All of these approachs work, but you should be aware that, as in
all things, you don't get "something for nothing"!
The Aviation 4509 sealed beam light gives 110,000 candela
(candle-power) over a controlled 11 degrees horiz. and 6 degrees
horizontal while consuming 100 watts (8+ amps). You pay for this
brightness though, and the rated life is only 25 hours.
The bulb refered to above is probably equivalent to the Philips
MR-16 high output halogen lamps made for display cases. The 50 watt (4
amps) version with a 12 degree circular spread has a central brightness of
10,000 candela, and the 75 watt (6 amps) version has a brightness of 12,500
candela. You can see the _greatly_ reduced brightness from these lamps,
but the good point is a life of 2000 to 3000 hours. However, you would
have to use about 44 amps and 11 lights (!!) to equal the brightness of a
4509 aviation lamp! ... but you would also get twice the vertical coverage.
You should take note of the controlled, non-symmetrical beam shape
of the 4509 when you read articles to re-mount them to get the filament
aligned differently, again you don't get "something for nothing"! You can
bet a lot of research went into determining that beam shape.
If you want a lower power, longer life equivalent of the aircraft
lamp, there is an interchangeable lamp (#7400) that has 35,000 candela over
a 12 horiz. and 5 vert. degree spread, and only takes 3 amps. This one has
a rated life of 300 hours, the same as the rated life of automobile
headlights. Perhaps a good compromise might be to use two of these 7400
lamps, slightly stagger their aiming point to get the vertical coverage,
and still end up with 70,000 candela on 6 amps, and 300 hour life. This
7400 lamp was made for "rotating beacon and auto spot", so should be
reasonably vibration resistant.
Unfortunately, my catalog does not give the specs. for the newer
Q4509 halogen version .... but product support says ..... :^) ... the Q4509
is 140,000 candela, 100 watts and a rated life of 100 hours. So the change
to halogen gives 30% more brightness and 4 times the life.
The beam shape given above should be of use to those thinking of
using automobile spot lights, choose one that is close to this 11 by 6
degree beam spread.
All of the above available through your nearest Grainger Industrial
supplier, check your phone book.
Again, the choice is a trade off of watts, candle-power, beam size
and life ... or we could just eat more carrots ... :^)
Gil Alexander
RV6A, #20701
gil(at)rassp.hac.com ... hoping to finish the canopy over the Xmas break.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Taylor <gmt(at)perth.DIALix.oz.au> |
| Subject: | RF Group Newsletters |
There seem to be quite a number of RV Group Newsletters in existence.
Could anyone post contact details. I'd like to arrange a subscription.
Thanks,
Graham Taylor
E mail: gmt(at)perth.DIALix.oz.au
Postal: 119 Darley Circle, Bullcreek, WA 6149, AUSTRALIA
(Nope, Bullcreek is not a cattle ranch, just a middle class suburb of
Perth, one of the world's most isolated cities)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Taylor <gmt(at)perth.DIALix.oz.au> |
| Subject: | Gascolator leakage - Partial engine failure |
One of our local builders had a partial engine failure in his RV-4. The
cause was an undersized washer on the gascolator, where the bowl fits to
the headpiece. Air was being drawn in. The gascolator was as supplied
by Vans, and the A/c has been flying for about 2 years.
Has anyone had a similar problem? Our local CAA inspector asked me, as I
tend to be the local RV group coordinator. He is very helpful to we
homebuilders.
If you wish to reply directly to me, that's fine. I will post a summary
of experiences to the list, without identifying details.
THanks.
Graham Taylor 6A about 5 months from flying.
E mail: gmt(at)perth.DIALix.oz.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich Klee <Rich_Klee(at)ccm.fm.intel.com> |
| Subject: | Landing lights flasher |
Bob Skinner wrote:
Landing lights. I like to fly with mine on for safety. I'm looking
into a "pulse light" set up for both increased visibility and hopefully
to increase the bulb life. I flew with them on during my test period
and they lasted around 16 hours. The second set, I used only when night
flying and landing and I don't think they lasted over 1-1 1/2 hours.
This last set lasted 7 1/2 hours. I have the filiments mounted
vertically as is reccommended. On the last set I also placed a bead of
silicon around both mounting points (front and back of bulb). I'm using
GE 4509 100 watt bulbs in the wing tips. The tip enclosure has some
openings for air to get to bulb. An article in Sport Aviation described
a "pulse light" system using a school buss flasher and claimed an
increased bulb life. Are any of you using this or the factory Pulse
Light system. Halogen replacements have been reccommended but I haven't
found any the size of the 4509. Can't go any larger dia. than this.
Thanks, Bob Skinner
While a school bus flasher will work, as well as J.C. Whitney flashers I
have designed a unit specifically for a/c. It is quite small 2.125 x
3.25 x x 1.125 and is quite versatile - it will allow you to have a
separate taxi and landing lights and alternate flashing operation. The
technology used is a bit more advanced than the flasher bimetalic strip
(P-channel Mosfets with Rds on of .025ohms in electronic geekish). It
will handle up to 65W per side (I test all units at 100W, but recommend
65W as little more conservative figure). And it has an LED which will
light if your bulb is burned out and indicate which one. It has 2
additional LED's duplicating the operation of the outside lights exactly
so the operation of this unit is very intuitive. It uses +12v switching
so existing light installations using the airframe as ground are easily
retrofitable. I sell these for $65.
If anyone is interested in detailed specifications please send me E-mail
rich_klee(at)ccm.fm.intel.com
or call or send a fax to (916) 863-1927
rich -6a fuse skinning
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KUKULSKIM(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Santa - A Scientific Look |
Happy Holidays! I thought I would share these technical, yet seasonal
observations.
The results of a scientific inquiry into Santa Claus as conducted by that
renowned scholarly periodical, SPY magazine (Jan 90).
1) No known species of reindeer can fly, BUT there are 300,000 species of
living organisms yet to be classified. And while most of these are insects
and germs, his does not COMPLETELY rule out flying reindeer which only Santa
has ever seen.
2) There are 2 billion children (persons under 18) in the world. BUT since
Santa doesn't (appear) to handle the Muslim, Hindu, Jewish, and Buddhist
children, that reduces the workload to 15% of the total - 378 million
according to the Population Reference Bureau. At an average (census) rate of
3.5 children per household, that's 91.8 million homes. One presumes there's
at least one good child in each.
3) Santa has 31 hours of Christmas to work with, thanks to different time
zones and the rotation of the earth, assuming he travels east to west (which
seems logical). This works out to 822.6 visits per second. This is to say
that for each Christian household with good children, Santa has 1/1000th of a
second to park, hop out of the sleigh, jump down the chimney, fill the
stockings, distribute the remaining presents under the tree, eat whatever
snacks have been left, get back up the chimney, get back into the sleigh and
move on to the next house. Assuming that each of these 91.8 million stops are
evenly distributed around the earth (which, of course, we know to be false
but for the purposes of our calculations we will accept), we are now talking
about .78 miles per household, a total trip of 75-1/2 million miles, but not
counting stops to do what most of us must do at least once every 31 hours,
plus feeding and etc.
This means that Santa's sleigh is moving at 650 miles per second, 3000 times
the speed of sound. For the purposes of comparison, the fastest man-made
vehicle on earth, the Ulysses space probe, moves at a pokey 27.4 miles per
second - a conventional reindeer can run, tops, 15 miles per hour.
4) The payload on the sleigh adds another interesting element. Assuming that
each child gets nothing more than a medium-sized LEGO set (2 pounds), the
sleigh is carrying 321,300 tons, not counting Santa, who is invariably
described as overweight.
On land, conventional reindeer can pull no more than 300 pounds. Even
granting that "flying reindeer" (see point #1) could pull the normal amount,
we cannot do the job with eight, or even nine. We need 214,200 reindeer.
This increases the payload - not even counting the weight of the sleigh - to
353,430 tons. Again for comparison - this is four times the weight of the
Queen Elizabeth.
5) 353,000 tons traveling at 650 miles per second creates enormous air
resistance - this will heat reindeer up in the same fashion as spacecraft
reentering the earth's atmosphere. The lead pair of reindeer will absorb 14.3
QUINTILLION joules of energy, per second, each. In short, they will burst
into flames almost instantaneously, exposing the reindeer behind them, and
creating deafening sonic booms in their wake. The entire reindeer team will
be vaporized in 4.26 thousandths of a second. Santa, meanwhile, will be
subjected to centrifugal forces 17500.06 times greater than gravity. A
250-pound Santa (which seems ludicrously slim), would be pinned to the back
of his sleigh by 4,315,015 pounds of force.
In conclusion - if Santa ever DID DELIVER presents on Christmas Eve, there's
a pretty good chance he's dead now.
Try to have a Merry Christmas anyway.
Mike Kukulski
KUKULSKIM(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ShaneM666(at)aol.com |
I am building a rv6a and am interested in your on-line article I saw in The
RVator. Please send me some information on what is availible on-line. Thank
You
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)ammeterj.seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Failure |
This sounds just like the problem that cropped up about three or 5 years
ago. On my RV-6 the arm that was welded at an angle to the cross tube at the
bottom and had the rudder cable fastened at the top broke off at the weld.
A friend of mine had exactly the same problem and did a slow ground loop
turning off the runway. Van did send out an 'AD' notice on this. If this
particular problem is the weld where the vertical rudder tube is fastened to
the cross-over tube well, I also broke that weld.
Some might say I have heavy feet. That's true, the rest of me too. I
strengthed that weld by welding on an .035" strap going from the vertical
tube all the way around the horizontal and back to the vertical. No
problems now.
I really can't fault the welding. I think Van is trying to keep weight to
the minimum and doesn't expect some of us to push that hard on the pedals.
My fault, not his.
>RV Listers:
>
>Got a call the other day from our local MN Wing tech counselor Tom Berge.
>Tom has an RV-6 with a little over 600 hrs on it. During a landing last
>week, he experienced a failure of his left rudder pedal. The .035 4130
>steel pedal broke at a weld. He was fortunate this happened just as he was
>turning off the active runway and not during the rollout at high speed (he
>probably would have ended up in a snowbank). The result was a very low
>speed ground loop without hitting anything.
>
>Tom contacted Van's and they are looking into this matter. It don't know if
>there was been a past history of this type of failure but Van's seemed quite
>concerned. This might be an area that should be inspected on flying RV-6s
>and -6As. Since I am building a -4, I'm not familiar with the details of
>the -6 design.
>
>Tom is not on the RV-List, but if anyone would like more details, let me
>know and I'll refer you to him.
>
>Doug
>
>-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
>= Doug Weiler, pres. MN Wing Van's AirForce, RV-4 wings in progress
>= 347 Krattley Lane
>= Hudson, WI 54016
>= 715-386-1239
>= email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
>-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
>
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)ammeterj.seanet.com
Seattle WA, USA
RV-6 N16JA
Flying 5 years
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Carbs/injectors/lights |
>just leaving the lights on all of the time? Also, in the last copy of the
>Rocky Mountain Rvator they had an article on a 12 volt halogen 50 watt bulb
>that has a life of 5,000 hours. It's 2" in dia. and draws 3 amps and costs
>$ 9.95. If anyone is interested, I'll type in the article as written. The
>article originated from th "Van's Airforce, Tri-State Wing"
I'd definately be interested, if it's not too much hassle. I've heard the
Rky Mtn RVator is a very fine newsletter - do you have an address and
subscription info?
Thanks - Ed Bundy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HowardRV(at)aol.com |
Merry Christmas to all and may the true meaning of Christmas bless you
throught out 1996!
Howard Kidwell
HowardrRV(at)AOL.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BPattonsoa(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Canopy Distortion |
This is not a RV question, but since we have wide knowledge here, please
reply if you can. The issue is canopy distortion
My other homebuilt is a HP-18 15 meter sailplane that I finished in 1982. I
later built a second fueselage with a one part canopy from Aircraft
Windshields, It was a blown plexi about 2' wide, 2' high and 6.5' long,
typical glider glass. It came covered with Splat (opaque), which I left on
while I fabricated a fiberglass frame, tilt mechanism, etc. About 3-400
hours on the canopy over 4 years.
Then, when complete, I removed the Splat, and damn near cried. The
distortion from the pilots position is such that a glider straight ahead
looks like a Corsair, bent wing bird. It is not so bad to the sides, but
still there. I have been flying it for 2 years now, and decided it is time
to tackle the issue, (at the expense of RV building time),
So... the question: Is this type of distortion INTERNAL to the plexi, or is
it the result of surface waves, inside or outside. If it is the latter, I
can sand the surface with 400 wet/dry and a very stiff rubber backing bar and
remove the waves. Then go to 600, 1200, and the EAA Canopy Scratch removal
kit for a normal finish. If internal, I may live with it til the -6A is
complete.
Thanks in Advance
Bruce Patton
bpattonsoa(at)aol.com
Tail, wings complete, fues OUT of the jig, jig for sale (steel)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com (Doug Weiler) |
| Subject: | Re: Rudder Pedal Failure |
>This sounds just like the problem that cropped up about three or 5 years
>ago. On my RV-6 the arm that was welded at an angle to the cross tube at the
>bottom and had the rudder cable fastened at the top broke off at the weld.
>A friend of mine had exactly the same problem and did a slow ground loop
>turning off the runway. Van did send out an 'AD' notice on this. If this
>particular problem is the weld where the vertical rudder tube is fastened to
>the cross-over tube well, I also broke that weld.
John Ammeter & Don Wentz:
Here's a little more detail on the rudder pedal failure. Tom has the "old"
type rudder pedals. His problem was not the arm, but the actual pedal
itself. It broke off at the bottom where it is welded to the torque tube.
Thus he lost everything: rudder, tailwheel steering and brake on the left
side. Not a pleasant situation in a taildragger. Fortunately, he had a
passenger who helped keep things from getting things too far out of hand.
Doug
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
= Doug Weiler, pres. MN Wing Van's AirForce, RV-4 wings in progress
= 347 Krattley Lane
= Hudson, WI 54016
= 715-386-1239
= email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com (Doug Weiler) |
| Subject: | Re: RF Group Newsletters |
Graham:
I believe John Hovan's RV Web Site has a listing of all the current RV Group
newsletters. The site address is:
http://atlantis.austin.apple.com/people/pages/jhovan/home.html
I publish the Minnesota Wing's newsletter (RvAtor's Log) and would be glad
to have you as a subscriber. Let me know and I'll fill you in on the details.
Doug
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
= Doug Weiler, pres. MN Wing Van's AirForce, RV-4 wings in progress
= 347 Krattley Lane
= Hudson, WI 54016
= 715-386-1239
= email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Distortion |
>On 12-23, Bruce Patton wrote:
>This is not a RV question, but since we have wide knowledge here, please
>reply if you can. The issue is canopy distortion
>My other homebuilt is a HP-18 15 meter sailplane that I finished in 1982. I
>later built a second fueselage with a one part canopy from Aircraft
>Windshields, It was a blown plexi about 2' wide, 2' high and 6.5' long,
>typical glider glass. It came covered with Splat (opaque), which I left on
>while I fabricated a fiberglass frame, tilt mechanism, etc. About 3-400
>hours on the canopy over 4 years.
>Then, when complete, I removed the Splat, and damn near cried. The
>distortion from the pilots position is such that a glider straight ahead
>looks like a Corsair, bent wing bird. It is not so bad to the sides, but
>still there. I have been flying it for 2 years now, and decided it is time
>to tackle the issue, (at the expense of RV building time),
>So... the question: Is this type of distortion INTERNAL to the plexi, or is
>it the result of surface waves, inside or outside. If it is the latter, I
>can sand the surface with 400 wet/dry and a very stiff rubber backing bar
and
>remove the waves. Then go to 600, 1200, and the EAA Canopy Scratch removal
>kit for a normal finish. If internal, I may live with it til the -6A is
>complete.
>Thanks in Advance
>Bruce Patton
>bpattonsoa(at)aol.com
I used to be in the glazing business and dealt with acrylic and polycarbonate
plastics quite a bit. I doubt that your distortion is "internal" - more
likely it is due to the blowing process. Tough call without seeing it, but
sandpaper may take it out. I had a little distortion in my RV-6 canopy, and
was able to get rid of most of it with a Micro Mesh kit (it really works).
Dana Breda
N138DB
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Anual Inspections |
Can anyone tell me the specific FAR that deals with the anual inspection of
experimental aircraft.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | Is Electric Trim On Elevators & Ailerons Any Good ? |
I am finishing my left elevator and wondering whether to install the
electric Mac trim system. I purchased this option but am having second
thoughts about installing it. I understand from the RVator that I will have
only about 70% of the manual available movement so I will not be able to
trim for the landing configuration. Also easy positioning without hunt and
peck seems hard to do. I had electric trim on my cherokee 180 and never used
it because of hunt and peck. The manual system was more precise ! However,
it still is kind of neat thinking that you could have both electric trim
systems on the stick with one toggle button. I would appreciate any comments
on this to help me make up my mind. Scott In Chicago RVGASJ(at)MCS.COM
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)ammeterj.seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Is Electric Trim On Elevators & Ailerons Any Good ? |
>I am finishing my left elevator and wondering whether to install the
>electric Mac trim system. I purchased this option but am having second
>thoughts about installing it. I understand from the RVator that I will have
>only about 70% of the manual available movement so I will not be able to
>trim for the landing configuration. Also easy positioning without hunt and
>peck seems hard to do. I had electric trim on my cherokee 180 and never used
>it because of hunt and peck. The manual system was more precise ! However,
>it still is kind of neat thinking that you could have both electric trim
>systems on the stick with one toggle button. I would appreciate any comments
>on this to help me make up my mind. Scott In Chicago RVGASJ(at)MCS.COM
>
You don't mention whether this is for a -6 or -4. I have a -6 and only use
about 3/4" of the available movement no matter what the CG or flight
airspeed. Maybe on the -4 it is more demanding. No problem with the
electric trim on the -6.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)ammeterj.seanet.com
Seattle WA, USA
RV-6 N16JA
Flying 5 years
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Re: Is Electric Trim On Elevators & Ailerons Any Good ? |
>--------------
>I am finishing my left elevator and wondering whether to install the
>electric Mac trim system. I purchased this option but am having second
>thoughts about installing it. I understand from the RVator that I will have
>only about 70% of the manual available movement so I will not be able to
>trim for the landing configuration. Also easy positioning without hunt and
>peck seems hard to do. I had electric trim on my cherokee 180 and never used
>it because of hunt and peck. The manual system was more precise ! However,
>it still is kind of neat thinking that you could have both electric trim
>systems on the stick with one toggle button. I would appreciate any comments
>on this to help me make up my mind. Scott In Chicago RVGASJ(at)MCS.COM
>
>--------------
Scott,
That's what the Matronics Governor is all about. Check out the brochure below;
I have have very good reports on it utility.
Matt
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Governor Mk III
By Matronics
Electronic Servo Speed Control
The Governor Mk III is an adjustable electronic speed reduction and switch
multiplexor for the MAC S4, 4A, S6, 6A, S8, and 8A electric aircraft trim
servos. It is designed to be used in any application where an electric servo
is used such as elevator, aileron, or rudder trim. Each servo application
will require a separate Governor Mk III unit.
The Governor controls the speed of the servo by regulating the *voltage*,
but supplying full required current to the motor. Using this technique,
you will generally see close to full output *torque* over the entire
adjustable speed range. Using a just a plain rheostat decreases both
voltage and current. While using this technique will slow the servo motor
down, it will also significantly reduce the output torque of the servo as
well, especially at slower speeds.
Features
General
* Small (3/4" X 1" X 2").
* Lightweight (1 oz.).
* Low cost ($55 list).
* Fast, easy installation.
* Complete, detailed installation instructions.
* Reliable, electronic circuitry.
* Compatible with MAC Trim's S4, S6 and S8 servo systems.
* Fully integrated design combining speed control with switch
multiplexing.
New Features in the Governor Mk III
* Trim control leads are actuated by connecting to ground, simplifying
installation and wiring.
* Internal circuitry now has increased short circuit protection.
* Redesigned printed circuit board for more reliability.
Speed Reduction
* Fully adjustable servo travel time.
* Reduces servo speed without reducing output torque.
* Increases trim precision while decreasing over-sensitivity.
Switch Multiplexing
* Allows multiple trim switches to be connected to the MAC servo for
use in tandem aircraft, etc.
* Opposite trim commands from separate switches will not cause
electrical shorting.
* Trim commands are taken on a first come, first serve basis - other
switches are disabled during trim input from the first switch used.
* Servo Dampening (stopping of the motor immediately following switch
release) is incorporated into the Governor's internal circuitry, no
longer requiring complicated wiring and special input switches.
Standard SPDT (or DPDT), center off, momentary contact switches may
now be used. This type of switch is more easily located and
installed, and may be purchased at a local electronics retailer.
* The Mk III model incorporates solid-state, printed circuit board
construction for high reliability.
The Governor Mk III is available from Van's Aircraft and direct from Matronics.
________________________________________________________________________________
I need a big favor from someone near North Plains, OR. At the start of this
project, I had ordered two sets of wingtips from Jerry, and have been waiting
for delivery for approx 11 months. Need 'em soon. Repeated calls lead me to
believe that the tips in question do indeed exist, but shipping said items
seems to be very low priority. A "volunteer" would go to Jerry, pick these
darn things up, have them boxed and shipped to me, and I would deduct this
fee from the final check sent to Jerry. Maybe the threat of this happening
would get Ol' Jerry off his butt. Maybe "Guido" needs to persuade him...
I sure didn't expect to be treated like this..., but now I know.
Rgds,
Mark
mlfred(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JerryFlyRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Is Electric Trim On Elevators & Ailerons Any Good ? |
>I am finishing my left elevator and wondering whether to install the
>electric Mac trim system. I purchased this option but am having second
>thoughts about installing it. I understand from the RVator that I will have
>only about 70% of the manual available movement so I will not be able to
>trim for the landing configuration. Also easy positioning without hunt and
>peck seems hard to do. I had electric trim on my cherokee 180 and never used
>it because of hunt and peck. The manual system was more precise ! However,
>it still is kind of neat thinking that you could have both electric trim
>systems on the stick with one toggle button. I would appreciate any comments
>on this to help me make up my mind. Scott In Chicago RVGASJ(at)MCS.COM
>
>
Scott
I don't know about a RV-4 but I know that it works great on a RV-6, I flew
for over 400 hrs with the manual trim and did not like it because of the
slack that was in the cable. I installed a Mac trim and have over 300 hrs on
it and find that it works great, I have the switch on the control stick and I
find that it is much easier to trim now, I did not use any of the reducers
that are now avialable to slow down the travel, I am sure that these would
make it even a better setup. I would put it in now while you can do it
easily, I had to drill out a lot of rivet in my elevator to install mine
though not hard it would have been much nicer to do it while building.
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Is Electric Trim On Elevators & Ailerons Any Good |
?
>
>>I am finishing my left elevator and wondering whether to install the
>>electric Mac trim system. I purchased this option but am having second
>>thoughts about installing it. I understand from the RVator that I will have
>>only about 70% of the manual available movement so I will not be able to
>>trim for the landing configuration. Also easy positioning without hunt and
>>peck seems hard to do. I had electric trim on my cherokee 180 and never used
>>it because of hunt and peck. The manual system was more precise ! However,
>>it still is kind of neat thinking that you could have both electric trim
>>systems on the stick with one toggle button. I would appreciate any comments
>>on this to help me make up my mind. Scott In Chicago RVGASJ(at)MCS.COM
>>
>>
>
>Scott
> I don't know about a RV-4 but I know that it works great on a RV-6, I flew
>for over 400 hrs with the manual trim and did not like it because of the
>slack that was in the cable. I installed a Mac trim and have over 300 hrs on
>it and find that it works great, I have the switch on the control stick and I
>find that it is much easier to trim now, I did not use any of the reducers
>that are now avialable to slow down the travel, I am sure that these would
>make it even a better setup. I would put it in now while you can do it
>easily, I had to drill out a lot of rivet in my elevator to install mine
>though not hard it would have been much nicer to do it while building.
>
>Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First flight July 14, 1989
>
Jerry,
Thanks on your input, I have decided to go ahead based on yours and others
experience to install the electric trim. I was wondering where you are based
and since you have had your RV6 flying so long if you were working on
another airplane project. Scott in Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Is Electric Trim On Elevators & Ailerons Any Good |
?
>>I am finishing my left elevator and wondering whether to install the
>>electric Mac trim system. I purchased this option but am having second
>>thoughts about installing it. I understand from the RVator that I will have
>>only about 70% of the manual available movement so I will not be able to
>>trim for the landing configuration. Also easy positioning without hunt and
>>peck seems hard to do. I had electric trim on my cherokee 180 and never used
>>it because of hunt and peck. The manual system was more precise ! However,
>>it still is kind of neat thinking that you could have both electric trim
>>systems on the stick with one toggle button. I would appreciate any comments
>>on this to help me make up my mind. Scott In Chicago RVGASJ(at)MCS.COM
>>
>You don't mention whether this is for a -6 or -4. I have a -6 and only use
>about 3/4" of the available movement no matter what the CG or flight
>airspeed. Maybe on the -4 it is more demanding. No problem with the
>electric trim on the -6.
>
>
>John Ammeter
>ammeterj(at)ammeterj.seanet.com
>Seattle WA, USA
>RV-6 N16JA
>Flying 5 years
>
>Thanks John for the input. Based on your experience and others I have
decided to install the electric trim. So since you have had your RV6A
completed 5 years are you working on any other airplane projects ? I am
always curious what hobbies take the place of the time that was used to
build the RV. Happy Holidays! Scott in Chicago
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | Wing jig spar height recommendations |
I am completing up my RV6A tail section and have received my wing kit. For
you guys that have built or are building your wings, how high should I put
the spar above the ground to get the best overall working height (in the
jig). I figured I would ask since I will have to live with it for many many
months. I understand of course that you would want it high enough to fit the
flaps and ailerons on, but how much higher. I am 6 feet 1 inch tall. Its
hard to tell from the Orndoff video how high the spar is above the ground.
Thanks to all for your input and Happy Holidays ! Scott in Chicago
rvgasj(at)mcs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JERRYWALKER(at)delphi.com |
Rv-list(at)matronics.com,
_ >
>I am completing up my RV6A tail section and have received my wing kit. For
>you guys that have built or are building your wings, how high should I put
>the spar above the ground to get the best overall working height (in the
>ig).
I,m currently building my left wing. My spar is about tit
high.... So far work has been fairly comfortable.
Jerry Walker
Rv-6
___
* UniQWK v4.02* The Windows Mail Reader
I would rather walk into a prop than go to Pope.
'[1;35;40m-=> Delphi Internet Jet v3.012 - (C) PBE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jperri(at)interserv.com |
December 09, 1995 - December 25, 1995
RV-Archive.digest.vol-aw