RV-Archive.digest.vol-bl
May 16, 1996 - May 28, 1996
If you do have some form of ground power connection, be careful
how it's rated AND used if it's not fat enough to crank an engine.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
PS The Portland Seminar is probably going to move to a just-off-airport site
near
Portland. Accomodations and Class in same building. Fly-in, walk over and
not need to leave the building for the duration. Details forthcoming. .
. .
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Nowakowski <nowakod(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Hey now, Just wanted to say hello as I am a newcomer to the list. There is
some great stuff on here but my concern is that when I read the messages I
sometimes get scared off, I mean, the satin finish on the spar strips for
example....I just
used a die grinder with a 2" green scotchbrite wheel, got them to what I
considered
good, primed them with out a hood or mask or breathing apparatus in a well
ventilated
area, and waited for them to dry. I used a harbor freight press to set the
rivets as Rich Klee suggests on Hovan's page and every one is a thing of
beauty. Anyway.....
enough rambling.....I thought I was doing fine! until I got on the list! Now
I feel
as though everything I do can be brought into question. Am I just to
paranoid? If any
of you folks get up to Vermont stop in and say hi and see my project. I THINK I
am doing OK????????
P.S. Keep up the good work
...........Don (Left Spar done and all right spar pieces preped....wings
RV-6)
Don Nowakowski (Nowakod(at)worldnet.att.net)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jerryflyrv(at)village.yvv.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA visit - Yippee!! - Update on N517RL |
aol.com!RV6junkie(at)matronics.com wrote:
>
>
> >was it tempting.... with the nose wheel off
> >at 50MPH... everything in the green...stall warning in full voice..The plane
> >screaming "fly me...Fly me"...just need to stick in some more power
> >and...and...
> >
> >no....I was a good boy...I'll wait my turn...(at least for another three
> days
> >
> >(GRIN))
>
> FLY IT. by all means man fly it. I thought about having somebody else do my
> test flight too...for about 3 seconds. My first flight was the most
> wonderful experience of my life. Having someone else fly YOUR airplane for
> the first time is like having someone else sleep with your wife on your
> wedding night!
>
> If it handles well on the ground during high-speed taxi tests, everything
> will be OK. You will more than likely have a heavy wing but this is normal
> and is easy to fix. Additionally, you will notice that you will need
> (right?) rudder to keep the ball centered. This is also normal and is easy
> to fix with a scab-tab.
>
> The RV's handle soooooo wellllll that I can't even tell tell you. You will
> find that you will have a "ham fist" at first but this over-controling will
> go away in 10 to 20 minutes.
>
> As the TV ad says...just do it
>
> Gary Corde
> RV-6 N211GC
I have to agree, If you can handle the airplane up to 50mph on the ground
you have the hard part done, it is one of the greatest feeling in the world
to fly your creation. On the other hand if you don't feel comfortable doing
it don't let anyone pressure you into it
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First Flight July 14, 1989 :-)
jerryflyrv(at)village.yvv.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV-3 vs. Midget Mustang |
Van's brother, Jerry, made some direct comparison's between his RV-3 and
several Midget Mustangs in the early RVator's. If I can find were I "saved"
my issues, I send a copy to the list.
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
LesDrag(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Brown <jmbrown(at)aimnet.aimnet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FAA visit - Yippee!! - Update on N517RL |
Congrats!!!! I personally can't wait til that day comes for me.!!!!!
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
jmbrown(at)aimnet.com CP-ASEL-IA
jmbrown(at)iHighway.net "Looking for an excuse to
fly"
Building an RV-6 #23568 N610JB "The Golden BeeBee"
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wbpace(at)adnc.com (Bill Pace) |
| Subject: | Re: 603 spar questions |
>Good luck and welcome to the mulitple spar club .
>
>John
>Walsh(at)ranger.enet.dec.com
And not a very exclusive club at that :-S. I had to rebuild my rear HS
spar as well when I very badly screwed up a hole when I drilled out a
rivet. Of course, that was the first rivet that had ever tried to remove
in a real part. I've become quite expert at drilling out rivets by now.
I'm probably better at that than I am at using the rivet gun :-).
At Oshkosh a couple of years ago, Van made a comment at one of the RV
forums that they sell an awful lot of replacement parts for Empennage kits.
(To which there was a small round of chuckles from the rest of the Vans
crew on the stage). He also said that people don't seem to need to replace
as much on the other three sub-kits.
I remember thinking that I could avoid all that expensive rework if I try
hard enough. Yea, right.
Get used to it, you will screw up and you will be buying some replacement
parts. Fortunately, most parts are cheap, although I seem to recall that
all of the new HS rear spar parts cost me about $100 with shipping. Ouch.
The way I look at it, you can spend $200 going to a metalworking class like
Van's holds or you can spend about the same amount buying new parts as you
teach yourself the necessary skills. I seem to have gone the latter route,
having replaced the rear and forward HS spars and a rudder skin. Just the
other day I ordered a new EET-601 (the electric elevator trim doubler
plate) since I followed Van's dimensions on the EET plans to the letter and
_then_ found out that things didn't fit. At least it was only $5 (incl
shipping). Sigh.
After a while, you get a feeling for what's really important to replace,
and what you can let slide by. As the folks at Van's have been known say,
"Just make it work". Funny thing how they try to discourage you from
buying more replacement parts than you have to. You don't seem to find
that kind of attitude most places anymore. I'm sure that replacements are
significant part of their income as it is.
-----
Bill Pace Life is not so much an adventure
wbpace(at)adnc.com as it is a paycheck.
(also wbpace(at)aol.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Nowakowski <nowakod(at)worldnet.att.net> |
>Date: Wed, 15 May 1996 21:22:25
>To: RV-list(at)Matronics.com
>From: Don Nowakowski <nowakod(at)worldnet.att.net>
>Subject: The List
>
> Hey now, Just wanted to say hello as I am a newcomer to the list. There is
>some great stuff on here but my concern is that when I read the messages I
sometimes get scared off, I mean, the satin finish on the spar strips for
example....I just
>used a die grinder with a 2" green scotchbrite wheel, got them to what I
considered
>good, primed them with out a hood or mask or breathing apparatus in a well
ventilated
>area, and waited for them to dry. I used a harbor freight press to set the
rivets as Rich Klee suggests on Hovan's page and every one is a thing of
beauty. Anyway.....
>enough rambling.....I thought I was doing fine! until I got on the list!
Now I feel
>as though everything I do can be brought into question. Am I just to
paranoid? If any
>of you folks get up to Vermont stop in and say hi and see my project. I THINK
I
>am doing OK????????
>P.S. Keep up the good work
>...........Don (Left Spar done and all right spar pieces preped....wings
RV-6)
>Don Nowakowski (Nowakod(at)worldnet.att.net)
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dcahoon(at)intellinet.com (David Cahoon) |
I'm needing a good source for Lycoming parts. (Meaning best price)
We are in the process of overhauling my 0-320-D2A. I found a retired
Sargeant Major who was chief mach. on Marine One to help me on this one. The
Crankshaft passed so we are on our way. Also I'm going to buy new jugs and
hope I can find them less than the $1200 ea. advertised. Any help pleased?
David Cahoon - Arkansas - working on RV-4 canopy and my engine.
David Cahoon
Jonesboro, Arkansas
dcahoon(at)intellinet.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
Don,
Building airplanes is just like flying them. Listen to everyone then do
what YOU feel is right. When push comes to shove your the guy who's
responsible for the way you build and fly. I bet your doing a super job!
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
On Thu, 16 May 1996, Don Nowakowski wrote:
***** snip ****
> as though everything I do can be brought into question. Am I just to
> paranoid? If any
> Don Nowakowski (Nowakod(at)worldnet.att.net)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis/Michael Kosta <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RV4 fatal accident Denver?? |
The pilot involved in the accident at Centenial was James Lanahan, flew RV-4
44AZ "Lookie LOO". He also flew a T-6. You may know him without knowing
him: he wrote several manuals for the maintainance of RV-types.
Man, sometimes you're just sitting there doing nothing................
I have not heard any details except the news (which may be nothing more than
reported speculation). Even if Jim DID land on the "wrong" runway there are
several things that went really wrong to cause this kind of accident. You
just can't look EVERYWHERE! Yikes!!
I had the occasion to meet Jim at several fly-ins and his enthusium for RV's
was unbridled. He was constantly looking at different ways of doing things
(of which there are many, eh?) and taking pictures for the next edition of
his books so he could share them with us. The manuals are pretty
informative and add a little more knowledge to the stack. I found them at
the Zenith display at Oshkosh and are available through the Zenith book
catalogs we all get or C.R. Supply, P.O. Box 46 Manitou Springs, CO 80829.
Don't know the fate of the books or C.R. Supply now that he isn't around but
I'm sure they will still be available.
Our condolences go out to his family and friends.
Michael Kosta
mikel(at)dimensional.com
RV-4 #2086
All the hook-up and finishing junk you have to do before you go flying.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wesleyt <wesleyt(at)twave.net> |
Does anybody have any information or know any details about the Chevy V-8
in Jim Stewarts P-51 70% replica?
I saw that it would produce 400hp @ 4500rpm. I know that there was a lot
of talk on the list about the BAP V-6 conversion that if 4500rpm in a V-8
would work in a plane why not in a V-6?
Wesley T Robinson
wesleyt(at)twave.net
Building Flaps
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Bordelon <greg(at)brokersys.com> |
| Subject: | Post Times - chatter |
Can anyone tell me why it takes an average of four hours plus for my =
postings to reach the list. My most recent postings took over nine hours =
to reach the list. I'm am not complaining......just trying to figure out =
if this is normal or do I have problems with my service provider?
Thanks in advance....
Greg Bordelon
greg(at)brokersys.com
Houston Texas
"A bad day of flying is better than a good day at work"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Gottschalk ((301) 286-0708)" <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | F605 Bulkhead question |
I was laying out the F605 bulkhead (rear cabin) last nite and found the
F605B reinforcing bar was pre-bent beyond what would line up evenly with the
two F606A bulkhead bottom curves. If I position the reinforcement bar with
the bottom center of the bulkhead, the rear spar attaching lugs on the ends
of the F605B are about 1/4" above the bulkhead bottom on the outboard edges.
Has any else experienced this problem? Is the solution to unbend the
reinforcement bar to fit, or just live with it? I'm skeptical about bending
aluminum back once it's bent. TIA
-Gene, RV-6a, but just another hurdle.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marc LeFevre <rv8(at)hpbs2412.boi.hp.com> |
This is a stupid question but I'm going to ask anyway. I
completed the inventory of kit #80036 and I too had two skins
that were slightly bent at the corner (maybe this this is a
design feature we are all overlooking :-)). Anyway, I seem to
have gotten two left elevator control horns. That is, the two
are identical; not mirror images of each other. Before I call
Vans, I thought I'd poll the list and see if I'm confused.
Marc LeFevre
rv8(at)hpbs2412.boi.hp.com
RV8
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil> (Tom Craig-Stearman) |
charset=US-ASCII
Don Nowakowski,
Welcome to the list!
I wouldn't worry about your project. Go out to the nearest airport and
closely inspect the first factory-built airplane you see. I am certain
your work is better.
I also used a Harbor Freight press arbor on my roommate's wing spars. It
makes beautiful rivets every time with very little effort. And, it is
cheap!
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil
RV-4 awaiting finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov |
| Subject: | Re: F605 Bulkhead question |
What you have described is correct, and it is in the plans that the
bar should be about the 1/4 inch you measured up from the bottom
outside edge. If I remenber correctly, this was a revision. You may
have to search through the past RVators to find the revision. If your
fuselage kit in not that old, you will find the revision is already
included in your set of plans. I am only going from memory, so the
measurement may be something other than 1/4 inch, but that sounds
about right.
Good luck
Warren Gretz
RV-6
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: F605 Bulkhead question
Date: 5/16/96 9:17 AM
I was laying out the F605 bulkhead (rear cabin) last nite and found the
F605B reinforcing bar was pre-bent beyond what would line up evenly with the
two F606A bulkhead bottom curves. If I position the reinforcement bar with
the bottom center of the bulkhead, the rear spar attaching lugs on the ends
of the F605B are about 1/4" above the bulkhead bottom on the outboard edges.
Has any else experienced this problem? Is the solution to unbend the
reinforcement bar to fit, or just live with it? I'm skeptical about bending
aluminum back once it's bent. TIA
-Gene, RV-6a, but just another hurdle.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric) |
| Subject: | 603 spar questions |
Hey John,
Your in luck, your multiple spar club membership card will get you a half
price subscription to the trim tab builders monthly. Don't bent those tabs,
ribs are easier.
Eric Henson
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Reply Separator <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
>Good luck and welcome to the mulitple spar club .
>
>John
>Walsh(at)ranger.enet.dec.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Elon Ormsby" <Elon.Ormsby(at)quickmail.llnl.gov> |
Reply to: Alt. Engines
Does anybody have any information or know any details about the Chevy V-8 in
Jim Stewarts P-51 70% replica?
I saw that it would produce 400hp @ 4500rpm. I know that there was a lot
of talk on the list about the BAP V-6 conversion that if 4500rpm in a V-8
would work in a plane why not in a V-6?
Wesley T Robinson
============================
It is a cast IRON 454 big block. Jim says that the plane needs the heavy
Iron block up front for the correct weight and balance. My understanding is
the PSRU was designed for about 2X the horsepower and life! No idea about
cost but I'll bet that PSRU is expensive.
-ELon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | billphil(at)ix.netcom.com (William Phillips ) |
| Subject: | Chevy Vortec R V-6 A |
Many of you have asked me for Vic Edelbrock's email address. Well I
finally have it.
edelbrock(at)edelbrock.com
Also they have a web page at: http://www.edelbrock.com
I encourage you to write to him concerning the production of the
aluminum heads for the V-6 Vortec. That would reduce the front end
weight by 40 pounds!!!! If we can get this accomplished the Vortec
will weigh about the same as a Lycoming 360.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | billphil(at)ix.netcom.com (William Phillips ) |
| Subject: | Chevy Vortec R V-6 A |
RV-6A Vortec 262 PSRU project.
Many of you have emailed me privately concerning the status of our
RV-6A project this week. We were experiencing propeller problems and
ordered a Warp-Drive prop. Its a ground adjustable 3 bladed carbon
fiber prop. I ran it up and down the runway two days ago and I liked
the performance. We pitched it to 17 degrees which gives us an
effective 68x62, good for climb. When I punched 200 hp to it and
started to move forward the acceleration wasnt too spectacular but
when reaching about 10 or 15 mph the prop dug in . It seems that the
inboard sections at higher pitch were stalled until the vector
component of air moving backward at 10 to 15 reduced the effective
angle of attack and unstalled a significant portion of the prop. I
accelerated to 65mph indicated in 10 seconds at a 5000 ft density
altitude and 92 degrees. That works out to an acceleration of 9.53
ft/s-s. That uses about 480 feet of runway to attain flying speed and
the thrust works out to about 410 pounds or a thrust to weight ratio of
28%. Im impressed with this performance and its certainly enough to
fly. We are however having a bearing problem. It seems that the
quality control failed on one of our prop bearings and it heats up
because the prop shaft is too large and putting pressure on the inner
race causing overloading of the entire bearing. We also need to change
the Gates belt. It appears that the belt we are using was really only
rated for 80 hp and weve ordered one rated for 400 hp.
I keep harping on this but please write to edelbrock(at)edelbrock.com and
request Vic Edelbrock to make the aluminum heads for the Vortec. Id
be happy to get a prototype and do the field tests for him. The
weight reduction is 40 pounds. Vic also is a pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Curt Reimer <Curt_Reimer(at)MBnet.MB.CA> |
| Subject: | Re: F605 Bulkhead question |
> I was laying out the F605 bulkhead (rear cabin) last nite and found the
> F605B reinforcing bar was pre-bent beyond what would line up evenly with the
> two F606A bulkhead bottom curves. If I position the reinforcement bar with
> the bottom center of the bulkhead, the rear spar attaching lugs on the ends
> of the F605B are about 1/4" above the bulkhead bottom on the outboard edges.
> Has any else experienced this problem? Is the solution to unbend the
> reinforcement bar to fit, or just live with it? I'm skeptical about bending
> aluminum back once it's bent. TIA
If you double check the drawing, I think you'll find that the ends of the
605B are supposed to be 1/8" above the *inside* edge of the 605A bottom
flanges. I take it the top flanges of the 606As are forming a straight
line, right? Anyway, I had the same problem as you, but once I double
checked the drawing and saw how it was really supposed to be, it actually
came out pretty close, like within 1/16 or so.
If you are sure of your measurements, and it still appears to be off,
call Van's. Maybe they will send a replacement.
You can also double check the dimensions of your 605B as supplied,
compared to the 605B fabrication drawings on the plans.
BTW, Van's is now sending the appropriate drawings and manual with each
kit. While this is a good thing, several drawings were missing from my
fuselage kit as compared to the full plans set that I bought a couple of
years ago. These were what I would call fabrication drawings - drawings
showing the shop dimensions of the parts that actually come pre-made. I
guess they think that since the parts are pre-made, you don't need the
fabrication drawings - but I sure as heck think I do - the parts aen't
always accurate as supplied.
Case in point (and a warning to fuselage builders): I built my bulkheads
as per the instructions by just clecoing the bulkheads together through
the tooling holes, rather than measuring. I would have measured, but I
could'nt find the dimensions anywhere cause - guess what - the bulkhead
fabrication drawing was not supplied with the kit. When I did the final
alignment on my bulkheads to run the stringers, I found the F606, 607and
608 bulkheads were too wide to form a nice straight line with the other
bulkheads. I finally dug out the correct drawing from my old plans and
these bulkheads were in fact wider than they should have been, by nearly
1/4 of an inch! So, now I have to make splice plates and rejoin these
bulkheads - they weren't rivited, but the holes had been drilled. My
advice to builders would be to just C-clamp the halves of these bulkheads
together for the initial fuselage jigging. Drill, prime and rivet once
you have aligned and drilled your stringers.
regards,
Curt Reimer
reimer(at)mbnet.mb.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Elon Ormsby" <Elon.Ormsby(at)quickmail.llnl.gov> |
Reply to: Alt. Engines
Does anybody have any information or know any details about the Chevy V-8 in
Jim Stewarts P-51 70% replica?....... know that there was a lot
of talk on the list about the BAP V-6 conversion that if 4500rpm in a V-8
would work in a plane why not in a V-6?
Wesley T Robinson
============================
It is a cast IRON 454 big block. Jim says that the plane needs the heavy
Iron block up front for the correct weight and balance. My understanding is
the PSRU was designed for about 2X the horsepower and life! No idea about
cost but I'll bet that PSRU is expensive.
-ELon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rwoodard(at)lawyernet.com |
RV>This is a stupid question but I'm going to ask anyway. I
RV>completed the inventory of kit #80036 and I too had two skins
RV>that were slightly bent at the corner (maybe this this is a
RV>design feature we are all overlooking :-)). Anyway, I seem to
RV>have gotten two left elevator control horns. That is, the two
RV>are identical; not mirror images of each other. Before I call
RV>Vans, I thought I'd poll the list and see if I'm confused.
Re: the skins. I think several of us had problems with the rudder skin being
bent at one end. I called Van's yesterday to order a replacement. The
guy was very nice and offered to send me another skin immediately at no
charge. He did ask me, however, to file a claim with UPS for their
(Van's) benefit in dealing with UPS.
Re: the control horns. Hmmm. Now you've got me wondering. I'll check mine
tonight and let you know if I have the same problem. I didn't pay that
close of attention. I just saw two and assumed they'd be correct.
Good luck. Keep us all posted on your progress.
Rod Woodard
RV-8 #80033
RWoodard(at)lawyernet.com
Rear spar fitted to skins last night. More to come this evening.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terryg(at)SceptreCal.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM |
| Subject: | Post Times (Chatter) |
Greg -- it's normal. The one thing about the wonderful (?) free (??) Internet
is that there is absolutely no accountability. The problem could be in your
local ISP, at Matronics, or anywhere in between. The benefit (???) of the
Internet is that is decentralized, so when things aren't quite right, there is
really no one to call, other than those mentioned above.
I use MSN at home, and the times range from two minutes turn around right
through to messages getting lost forever.
Hope this helps...cheers...
Terry in Calgary
S/N 24414
"VS Skeleton in Jig"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Post Times - chatter |
> Can anyone tell me why it takes an average of four hours plus for my postings
to reach
the list. My most recent postings took over nine hours to reach the list. I'm am
not
complaining......just trying to figure out if this is normal or do I have problems
with my
service provider?
Count yourself lucky.... it's taken up to 5 DAYS for some of mine to
get through... I have no idea why....
Randall Henderson
randall(at)edt.com
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Gottschalk ((301) 286-0708)" <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: F605 Bulkhead question |
Waren,
If that's so than I guess what I have is correct, however the set of plans I
have doesn't show it that way. It seemed a lot for Van's parts to be off,
but since I haven't made anything yet it couldn't be me for a change! I'll
check the RVators. The plans are circa 1992 and show all flush. I have
been very diligent about redlining my plans to reflect engineering changes
since 1992, but I could have missed it. If you lay your hands on the issue
please let me know which one it is. Thanks for the response.
-Gene
geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov
At 09:27 AM 5/16/96 mdt, you wrote:
> What you have described is correct, and it is in the plans that the
> bar should be about the 1/4 inch you measured up from the bottom
> outside edge. If I remenber correctly, this was a revision. You may
> have to search through the past RVators to find the revision. If your
> fuselage kit in not that old, you will find the revision is already
> included in your set of plans. I am only going from memory, so the
> measurement may be something other than 1/4 inch, but that sounds
> about right.
>
> Good luck
>
> Warren Gretz
> RV-6
>
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
>Subject: RV-List: F605 Bulkhead question
>Author: rv-list(at)matronics.com at SMTP
>Date: 5/16/96 9:17 AM
>
>
>I was laying out the F605 bulkhead (rear cabin) last nite and found the
>F605B reinforcing bar was pre-bent beyond what would line up evenly with the
>two F606A bulkhead bottom curves. If I position the reinforcement bar with
>the bottom center of the bulkhead, the rear spar attaching lugs on the ends
>of the F605B are about 1/4" above the bulkhead bottom on the outboard edges.
>Has any else experienced this problem? Is the solution to unbend the
>reinforcement bar to fit, or just live with it? I'm skeptical about bending
>aluminum back once it's bent. TIA
>
>-Gene, RV-6a, but just another hurdle.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terryg(at)SceptreCal.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM |
| Subject: | Lurkers From Van's (Chatter) |
Randall said...
>Rest assured, there are people from Van's "lurking" as we speak
>(right, drool-meister?) But they're smart enough to not speak up
>and instead let the forum sort things out on its own.
Interestingly enough in my profession (info. systems for oil & gas companies)
we're called upon to attend quite a few computer user groups. The ones that are
run by the vendor are pretty formal affairs (not a lot of useful conversation)
and the ones that are 'user driven' are usually quite a bit more useful. The
current arrangement allows the 'List to be candid and 'apolitical'...always good
things to foster good dialogue.
On the other hand, it's nice to have the factory guys (Jim/Andy?) drop in once
in a while as well...cheers...
Terry in Calgary
S/N 24414
"VS Skeleton In Jig"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gene Gottschalk ((301) 286-0708)" <geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | Re: F605 Bulkhead question |
Curt,
Thanks for you response Curt. It's always embarrassing to post a question
on the list and then find the answer on the drawing (though better than
building it wrong!). I thought I had reviewed it closely, but will check
again tonite. Your the second one to state the answer is on the drawings.
BTW, the Frank Justice document on John Hovan's home page discusses the 606,
607 and 608 bulkhead alignment problem, for those on the list that haven't
found it yet. Thanks for the help guys...
-Gene, RV6a
geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov
>
>If you double check the drawing, I think you'll find that the ends of the
>605B are supposed to be 1/8" above the *inside* edge of the 605A bottom
>flanges.
>Case in point (and a warning to fuselage builders): I built my bulkheads
>as per the instructions by just clecoing the bulkheads together through
>the tooling holes, rather than measuring. I would have measured, but I
>could'nt find the dimensions anywhere cause - guess what - the bulkhead
>fabrication drawing was not supplied with the kit. When I did the final
>alignment on my bulkheads to run the stringers, I found the F606, 607and
>608 bulkheads were too wide to form a nice straight line with the other
>bulkheads.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric_Westland(at)msvl.wednet.edu (Eric Westland) |
I wanted to pass on to this group a lead on an engine I looked into (we
decided to wait for now on any engine). It is a Lycoming O-360-A1A that has
about 2700 total hours on it. It was majored about 130 hours ago and then
placed on a Midget Mustang that had a landing accident. Joe Dreyholb (sp?)
in the Chicago area went through the engine and re-certified all the hard
parts and put in a zero-tolerance hollow crank. The seller in Arkansas is
Marion Smallwood and he is asking around $13,000 for the engine, I don't know
how firm he is on the price. His number is 501-756-6565. My conversations
with him indicated to me he was a good guy to deal with.
I don't know Marion, have not seen the engine and cannot testify to any of the
above - I'll let the buyer sort that out, but as hard as good engines are to
find, I wanted to pass it along in case anyone was interested.
Eric
--
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Marysville School District, Marysville, Washington, USA
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terryg(at)SceptreCal.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM |
| Subject: | RV8 inventory (Chatter) |
Ron wrote --
Ron W wrote...
>Rear spar fitted to skins last night. More to come this evening.
Wow, they must do things a whole lot differently in the -8 than in the -6?!!!
:-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terryg(at)SceptreCal.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Alt. Engines (Chatter) |
A 400 HP Chevy V-8 in my RV-6...now let me look up Van's number and see if I can
get a quick endorsement from Van on that modification. :-) (One ringey
dingey...two ringey dingey...)
PS. Can anybody think of an alternate source for custom cowlings??
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com (William Costello ) |
You wrote:
>
> Hey now, Just wanted to say hello as I am a newcomer to the list.
>There is some great stuff on here but my concern is that when I read
>the messages I sometimes get scared off, I mean, the satin finish on
>the spar strips for example....I just used a die grinder with a 2"
>green scotchbrite wheel, got them to what I considered good, primed
>them with out a hood or mask or breathing apparatus in a well
>ventilated area, and waited for them to dry. I used a harbor freight
>press to set the rivets as Rich Klee suggests on Hovan's page and
>every one is a thing of beauty. Anyway.....
>enough rambling.....I thought I was doing fine! until I got on the
>list! Now I feel as though everything I do can be brought into
>question. Am I just to paranoid? If any of you folks get up to Vermont
>stop in and say hi and see my project. I THINK I am doing OK????????
>P.S. Keep up the good work
>...........Don (Left Spar done and all right spar pieces
preped....wings
>RV-6)
>Don Nowakowski (Nowakod(at)worldnet.att.net)
>
>
Don, if you are taking reasonable precautions to get rid of any
sizeable nicks and avoid sharp inside or outsice corners, I strongly
suspect that you ARE doing fine. I actually had a couple of people at
Van's laughing at some of my concerns. I think some of these builders
want to use xray spectroscopy to analyze the surface crystalline
structure of their planes. :)
If you belong to an EAA Chapter or know any knowledgeable builders or
restorers in your area, it would probably make you feel good to ask one
of them to drop by (or toss the parts in the car to take to them) and
get their opinion. They will tell you if you are using safe
construction techniques.
Now painting without a mask is another thing. I would be careful about
that. If you can smell the paint, then you are breathing it in. And
some of that stuff can do some mean things.
Hope this helps.
Bill Costello
--
___ _____________________________
\ \ _ _ / /
\ /? \ / \ / Bill Costello Chicago \
X-*#####*******......./ N97WC (reserved) /
o/\ \ \_\ \ RV-6 on left elev. \
\__\ \ bcos(at)ix.netcom.com /
\____________________________\
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jcimino(at)jcimino.microserve.com (Jim Cimino) |
| Subject: | Re: RV8 inventory |
Marc,
My RV-8 kit has two control horns that are mirrors of each other. They
are not the same.
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn#80039
>This is a stupid question but I'm going to ask anyway. I
>completed the inventory of kit #80036 and I too had two skins
>that were slightly bent at the corner (maybe this this is a
>design feature we are all overlooking :-)). Anyway, I seem to
>have gotten two left elevator control horns. That is, the two
>are identical; not mirror images of each other. Before I call
>Vans, I thought I'd poll the list and see if I'm confused.
>
>Marc LeFevre
>rv8(at)hpbs2412.boi.hp.com
>RV8
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jcimino(at)jcimino.microserve.com (Jim Cimino) |
| Subject: | 150 h.p. engine for sale |
Just passing this information on to anyone who might be interested. I met a
guy at my EAA chapter meeting last night who has a 150 engine for sale. It
is a O-320-G4. It is a non-certified Lycoming used a ground power unit. it
is identical to a certified engine, the owner says that it is overhauled and
doesn't have any accessories. He is asking $2500.00. I don't know the guy
at all or the engine. His name is Mike, his number is (610)706-0737.
Jim Cimino
RV-8 sn#80039
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Chandler" <mauser(at)Claris.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker Harnesses |
Beats me. All I know is that when I saw the title on this message, I thought:
"Hooker Harnesses. What a perfect way to carry your Baggage!"
--
"Wait a minute, you expect us innocent children to climb up dangerous
scaffolding and paint naked people all over a church? We'll do it!!"
-- Yakko Warner, Animaniacs
"Yeah, I've got ADD, you wanna make something of.... oooh, cool. Look!"
________________________________________________________________________________
Hi,
At the risk of starting another email storm, might I suggest we post =
specific questions and the responses to the rv-list and direct support =
messages directly to the originator of the mail.
The traffic on the rv-list is dramatic by any administrator's standards.=
I =
have just been questioned on the volume of email I have received between=
=
January and March (3,297). This is predominately the RV-List.
The list is an excellent forum, but a number of us are being forced to =
unsubscribe because of the sheer volume of traffic.
When you post that email, just consider whether it maybe more effective =
to =
send it direct to the author rather than to the list. It could mean the =
=
difference to a few of us under pressure from hostile system administrat=
ors =
;^)
Regards
Mike Parkinson
(RV6 - building rear HS spar)
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
_/ | Mike Parkinson - NSMDA
_/ | E-Mail: m_parkinson(at)nsmd.aus.hp.com
_/_/_/ _/_/_/ | Phone : +61 (03) 9210 5653
_/ _/ _/ _/ | Fax : +61 (03) 9210 5646
_/ _/ _/_/_/ | Postal: 31-41 Joseph Street
_/ | Blackburn, VIC 3130
_/ | Australia
=2D---------------------------------------------------------------------=
=
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________=
________
Subject: Re: RV-List: The List
HP-Singapore,mimegw1
Date: 16/5/96 11:37 PM
Don,
Building airplanes is just like flying them. Listen to everyone then do=
what YOU feel is right. When push comes to shove your the guy who's
responsible for the way you build and fly. I bet your doing a super job=
!
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
On Thu, 16 May 1996, Don Nowakowski wrote:
***** snip ****
> as though everything I do can be brought into question. Am I just to
> paranoid? If any
> Don Nowakowski (Nowakod(at)worldnet.att.net)
> =
> =
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Johnson <rvgasj(at)popmail.mcs.net> |
| Subject: | Advice On Painting / Preping |
My wings are completed and I have decided to paint them, I have the follwing
questions:
1.) If I alumiprep & alodine the outside of the wing skins, is that
corrosive material going to get inside my wing through rivet holes etc and
cause corrosion inside the wing. Or said another way, is this to dangerous
to do to be worthwhile ( I should have alumipreped each part before I
riveted it !).
2.) Here is the sequence I was going to use, any comments or experience with
this stuff are appreciated.
- alumiprep / alodine / wash outside of wing
- let dry for a couple of days
- spray Randacryl Epibond off white primer, let dry 12 hours
- spray 3 light coats of Randacryl Acrylic laquer (Insignia White)
- Let dry a few weeks and apply vinyl adhesive pin striping etc for color
3.) Any comments or experience with a good spray gun to buy, and should it
be hvlp ?
*** I chose acrylic laquer because it it very easy to use, drys quick, easy
to fix scratches and nicks. I know it is not as nice as the new paints
(Centari, Imron, etc), but it is easier for a novice to use and maintain.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
P.S. Check out my RV web page with construction pictures at
http://www.mcs.net/~rvgasj/rv6a.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F605 Bulkhead question |
On Thu, 16 May 1996, Gene Gottschalk ((301) 286-0708) wrote:
> I was laying out the F605 bulkhead (rear cabin) last nite and found the
> F605B reinforcing bar was pre-bent beyond what would line up evenly with the
> two F606A bulkhead bottom curves. If I position the reinforcement bar with
> the bottom center of the bulkhead, the rear spar attaching lugs on the ends
> of the F605B are about 1/4" above the bulkhead bottom on the outboard edges.
> Has any else experienced this problem? Is the solution to unbend the
> reinforcement bar to fit, or just live with it? I'm skeptical about bending
> aluminum back once it's bent. TIA
I had the same problem. I just 'unbent' it. WHen I drilled it to the
rest of F-604, I used slight finger pressure to force the bar into the
position it was supposed to be in, then drilled and clecoed it.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn23744
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | 3 blade Catto prop |
| From: | Marc LeFevre <rv8(at)hpbs2412.boi.hp.com> |
Listers:
I saw a couple of notes in the archive regarding a 3 bladed
wood/composite prop made by Catto. I believe that Matt even
bought one. Has anyone spent any time flying behind one of
these? Does Catto still make them?
Marc LeFevre
rv8(at)hpbs2412.boi.hp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Indiana RV Builders Gathering |
To all on the RV-list:
On June 1st we are having the first Indiana RV Builders Gathering at
Shawnee Airport, Bloomfield, IN. Our host will be Mike Wonder
(812-384-9016)and will be held in conjunction with the Bloomington (650)
and Terre Haute (83) EAA chapter cookout.
All RV'ers or interested aviation types are welcome with special
encouragement to those with flying RV's who would like to show them off
to an appreciative crowd (its only a short hop by RV from Dayton,
Chicago, Louisville, St. Louis, Sydney[?]).
It's a carry-in with the meat being provided (if its inconvienent to
bring something, don't worry about it). Please bring your own table
services, lunch will be around noon.
Please bring project scrap books for all to view. An informal hands-on
basic sheet metal demonstration and discussion will be held. This will
be an informal get-to-gether.
If you can, plan on camping out at the airport Saturday night and join
us in some serious hanger flying when the sun goes down and the beer
light goes on.
If you have any questions please contact Mike at the number above or me
at this e-mail address
smidler(at)dcwi.com
317-538-3166
Hope to see some of you there.
Frank Smidler
Editor INDIANA RV BUILDERS NEWSLETTER
RV-6 Fuselage is out of jig.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank Smidler <smidler(at)dcwi.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F605 Bulkhead question |
Gene Gottschalk ((301) 286-0708) wrote:
>
> I was laying out the F605 bulkhead (rear cabin) last nite and found the
> F605B reinforcing bar was pre-bent beyond what would line up evenly with the
> two F606A bulkhead bottom curves. If I position the reinforcement bar with
> the bottom center of the bulkhead, the rear spar attaching lugs on the ends
> of the F605B are about 1/4" above the bulkhead bottom on the outboard edges.
> Has any else experienced this problem? Is the solution to unbend the
> reinforcement bar to fit, or just live with it? I'm skeptical about bending
> aluminum back once it's bent. TIA
>
> -Gene, RV-6a, but just another hurdle.
Gene, I had the same problem, it was over bent. If you positioned it correctly
at the sides it stuck down
below the bulkhead in the middle. I finally used a vise and took out a little
of the bend and then filed
off 1/16" at the bottom center to insure it did not push down on the skin. It
worked out fine and my
fuselage is now out of the jig.
A little humble pie, after looking inside the front cockpit of my RV-6 for over
3 weeks I just now noticed
that I mispossitioned one of the front floor reinforcement angles. The outside
angle on the left side is
correctly positioned at the firewall, but when I drilled the back end to the skin
I must have held the
wrong side of the angle to my mark. It now skews inboard 3/4" as it goes from
front to back. What am I
going to do (its all riveted in)? Absolutely nothing. Once the carpeting is down
only I will know and
structurally it will have no affect. I will always try to do a good job building
my airplane but I'm not
going to sweat the unimportant things that can go wrong.
Frank Smidler
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wbpace(at)adnc.com (Bill Pace) |
>Hi Bill,
>
>I am just about to start cutting the doubler plate for the Electric
>elevator trim. You mentioned that the plans for it were wrong. Could
>you give me some specifics on that? Would very much appreciate a heads
>up on it! I am already a member of the Re-Do-It Club, having screwed
>up the first copy of the horiz stab main spar. Don't want to become a
>Member Emeritus!
>
>Thanks for any help,
>
>Bill Costello
>bcos(at)ix.netcom.com
>--
>
> ___ _____________________________
> \ \ _ _ / /
> \ /? \ / \ / Bill Costello Chicago \
> X-*#####*******......./ N97WC (reserved) /
> o/\ \ \_\ \ RV-6 on left elev. \
> \__\ \ bcos(at)ix.netcom.com /
> \____________________________\
(Bill sent this to me direct but I am forwarding my answer to the entire
list for critique and public review in case someone finds a flaw in my
solution. I didn't ask Bill first before including the above message, but
I don't think he'll mind.)
Bill,
If you look at the drawing in the lower left corner of plans sheet EET-1,
you will find the dimensions of the EET-601 doubler plate. The lower
leftmost dimension of 3/4" denotes the distance between the flange
(depicted along the bottom, which is the outboard side) and the servo hole.
The EET-602A access plate (drawn just to the right) shows the overlap
area, the bottom part of which will partly cover some of that 3/4". If
the rivet line along that small strip is not drilled close enough to that
flange, then there will be insufficient edge distance left between the
rivets and the edge of the skin, or the access plant and the holes for the
K-1000-06 anchor nuts, depending on where you end up placing the
skin/access plate edge.
I drilled my doubler plate rivet line right along the 3/8" line, half way
between the edge and the servo hole (which I had already cut out). It was
not until after I had drilled this to the skin that I discovered that I
would not be able to maintain minimum edge distances for the skin rivets
and/or the access plate bolt holes.
Rather than chuck the whole elevator and start over, this is what I plan to do:
I'll move the entire servo hole about 1/4" inboard. That will give the
extra room I need at the flange, and will permit me to extend the cover
plate to overlap the rivet holes in the skin that were drilled just inboard
of and parallel to the servo hole. This will make the access plate just a
tad (1/4") wider so that I can cut out those holes (which can't be used
since they would be too close to the edge of the repositioned servo hole.
A new rivet line will be drilled about 3/8" inboard of the original
location. None of the other rivets will need to be moved. I can backdrill
all of these holes through the skin. The only possible problem that I can
see in doing this is that I might end up with the end of the servo linkage
too close to the inboard end of the trim-tab. If that turns out to be the
case, I can angle the servo out just a smidgen, but I don't expect this to
be necessary.
My problem with the directions in the plans is that they didn't call out
how critical the edge distances are in this little area of the EET-601. It
would have helped a lot if either the distance from the flange to the rivet
line had been called out, or some notation made in the directions to look
out here. If your doubler plate is still undrilled, I would suggest that
you either (a) very carefully measure out where the rivet line, trimmed
skin edge, anchor nuts, et. al. go in this area before doing _anything_ or
(b) move the flange a quarter inch outboard to give yourself a little extra
room (it won't take much) and do step (a) anyway.
Hope this helps. Let me know if you need any clarification.
-----
Bill Pace Life is not so much an adventure
wbpace(at)adnc.com as it is a paycheck.
(also wbpace(at)aol.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <lewis(at)artery.cmet.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Demo ride near San Antonio, TX |
I'm looking for an RV-6 or RV-6A owner who would be willing to take me on
a demo flight. I live in San Antonio, TX, and I plan to order a 6A within
a month. I've asked asked around the local RV builders I know, but I've
not found anybody available yet. I'm of course willing to pay gas and any
other costs.
Thanks,
Tim Lewis
Coml, IA, ASEL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker Harnesses |
>Beats me. All I know is that when I saw the title on this message, I thought:
>"Hooker Harnesses. What a perfect way to carry your Baggage!"
>
Whats the beef on Hooker's work. I have a 5 point system that's has been
holding my butt in place for 2 years and works fine. We also have
them(ratcheting version) in two competition aerobatic planes in our hangar.
Everybody likes them. Maybe somebody is peeved because they aren't cheap or
he had to wait to get them. I'd like to see the facts. There is nothing I
can see that needs to be improved. IMHO Hooker makes the best.
Regards:
Rusty Gossard
N47RG RV-4 Flying
Regards:
Rusty Gossard
N47RG RV-4 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov |
| Subject: | F605 Bulkhead question |
The correct measurement is 1/8 inch. I found the revision on Drawing
#26, as revision #9, dated 12/94.
Good luck.
Warren Gretz
RV-6
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: RV-List: F605 Bulkhead question
Date: 5/16/96 1:07 PM
Waren,
If that's so than I guess what I have is correct, however the set of plans I
have doesn't show it that way. It seemed a lot for Van's parts to be off,
but since I haven't made anything yet it couldn't be me for a change! I'll
check the RVators. The plans are circa 1992 and show all flush. I have
been very diligent about redlining my plans to reflect engineering changes
since 1992, but I could have missed it. If you lay your hands on the issue
please let me know which one it is. Thanks for the response.
-Gene
geneg(at)rattler.gsfc.nasa.gov
At 09:27 AM 5/16/96 mdt, you wrote:
> What you have described is correct, and it is in the plans that the
> bar should be about the 1/4 inch you measured up from the bottom
> outside edge. If I remenber correctly, this was a revision. You may
> have to search through the past RVators to find the revision. If your
> fuselage kit in not that old, you will find the revision is already
> included in your set of plans. I am only going from memory, so the
> measurement may be something other than 1/4 inch, but that sounds
> about right.
>
> Good luck
>
> Warren Gretz
> RV-6
>
>
>______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
>Subject: RV-List: F605 Bulkhead question
>Author: rv-list(at)matronics.com at SMTP
>Date: 5/16/96 9:17 AM
>
>
>I was laying out the F605 bulkhead (rear cabin) last nite and found the
>F605B reinforcing bar was pre-bent beyond what would line up evenly with the
>two F606A bulkhead bottom curves. If I position the reinforcement bar with
>the bottom center of the bulkhead, the rear spar attaching lugs on the ends
>of the F605B are about 1/4" above the bulkhead bottom on the outboard edges.
>Has any else experienced this problem? Is the solution to unbend the
>reinforcement bar to fit, or just live with it? I'm skeptical about bending
>aluminum back once it's bent. TIA
>
>-Gene, RV-6a, but just another hurdle.
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil> (Tom Craig-Stearman) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-list F-605 bulkhead question |
charset=US-ASCII
On 16 May 96, Curt Reimer wrote:
>Case in point (and a warning to fuselage builders): I built my bulkheads
as per the instructions by just clecoing the bulkheads together through
the tooling holes, rather than measuring. . . . When I did the final
alignment on my bulkheads to run the stringers, I found the F606, 607and
608 bulkheads were too wide to form a nice straight line with the other
bulkheads. I finally dug out the correct drawing from my old plans and
these bulkheads were in fact wider than they should have been, by nearly
1/4 of an inch!
Good point! On my RV-4 fuselage I used Stephen Frey's method. I drew
a grid on a piece of plywood containing the top, bottom, and side (measured
at the top longeron) dimensions of each bulkhead. The dimensions were
copied from Frey's manual, which I checked against the bulkhead fabrication
page in the plans. I clecoed the bulkhead parts to this grid, then drilled
them together, ignoring the tooling holes. None of the tooling holes
matched exactly, and some were off by the diameter of the tooling holes!
The fuselage came out very nicely, and I had to use only two shims on the
entire structure (on the bottom skin back near the tail.) The bottom line
is: do NOT trust the tooling holes in the bulkheads!
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil
RV-4 elbows-deep in the electrical system
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PatK(at)gnn.com (Patrick Kelley) |
A droplet in the storm :)
Opinion on:
It seems to me that this list is about communication between builders of
Van's aircraft. Suggestions to limit this communication seem counter to that
aim. From my point of view, it is annoying to hear the questions but fail to
hear all the answers because the respondants only reply to the questioner. I
have gleaned a lot of info just by lurking; the proof is that I just recently
posted my first question to the list - all my others had already been asked
and answered. Direct support questions can also be interesting from a "me,
too" aspect.
By the way, are you paying for your Internet provider. If so, let the
administrator know that *you* are the boss. You pay the bills; demand the
service. If they won't give you what you want, switch to a provider who
will. If you are getting a free connection (via work or some such) you can
try the same tactic, but politely. Feel free to clip this and give it to any
administrator who gives you trouble.
One thing that does help keep the administrators off your back is to automate
your downloads so that your email is gathered regularly, even if you are away
on vacation or sick. Traffic seems to be only a minor problem compared to
storage; if you make an effort to fill your disk instead of your provider's,
they will surely thank you for it.
Opionion off:
PatK - RV-6A - Wing spars finally riveted (oh, my aching back!)
>From: HP-Australia-om1.om.hp.com!MIKE_PARKINSON(at)matronics.com
>Hi,
>
>At the risk of starting another email storm, might I suggest we post
>specific questions and the responses to the rv-list and direct support
>messages directly to the originator of the mail.
>
>The traffic on the rv-list is dramatic by any administrator's standards. I
>have just been questioned on the volume of email I have received between
>January and March (3,297). This is predominately the RV-List.
>
>The list is an excellent forum, but a number of us are being forced to
>unsubscribe because of the sheer volume of traffic.
>
>When you post that email, just consider whether it maybe more effective to
>send it direct to the author rather than to the list. It could mean the
>difference to a few of us under pressure from hostile system
> administrators
>;^)
>
>Regards
>Mike Parkinson
PatK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Maynard, Bryon" <maynardb(at)snowmass.ksc.nasa.gov> |
| Subject: | COMING OUT OF THE CLOSET |
Hello
My name is Bryon T. Maynard. I figure it was time I came out and
introduce my self proper to the list. Have been reading the list for
about a year now.
I currently building an RV-6A. The tail is completed and the wings are
98% completed. I just receive my fuselage kit yesterday.
I have an O-320 AIA on standby for installation and use( 3000 TT , 900
SMOH) Yes, I am planning to find a different Sump so it will fit in a
6A version.
I am using a Stephen Frey Jig for my fuselage. So sweet , worth the
money.
Bio:
Home Place: I live in Rockledge, Florida (20 miles south of Kennedy
Space Center)
Occupation: NASA Mechanical Experiment Engineer (Assemble, place and
retrieve experiment in the space shuttle)
Question:
I have been priming all my parts with Variprime. Would it be a general
consensus that I should do the same to all my steel parts in my fuselage
kit (i.e. engine mount, gear legs, landing gear ect...) ? What would be
a good paint to apply to the engine mount and landing gear parts?
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alt. Engines |
The S-51 PSRU is $7500 currently and is rated to handle 700hp for 20,000
hours mtbf... it also requires a custom hub and prop blades for the S-51
engine installation - if memory serves, it is a modified King Air hub and
blades for a turbine engine... I do not have the price on that, but it will
be multiples of the PSRU cost...
For the power levels generated by a stock V6, a belt reducer will work well -
and is less expensive than a gear box or chain drive....certainly, a V6 will
run at 4500rpm for a long time.. it will run even longer at 3200 to 3800
rpm.... use a longer prop with more pitch and design for a 2.37:1 ratio
PSRU, which will give 1600 prop rpm at 3800 engine rpm for high cruise... The
engine will need an aftermarket cam designed to hit its torque peak at 3800
rpm.... full-war-emergency-take-off (or the Sun 100) will turn the prop at
2200 and the engine 5225 - and it should be a rocket... there is a firm that
makes a composite prop with three blades which can be had ground adjustable
or electrically adjustable.. either should work like gang busters for this
type of installation....
There was a message regarding the gates belt they were ordering, rated for
400 hp... I accidentally deleted that message when intending to reply to
it...I am currently ordering parts for a psru... would that person drop me a
line as I would like to discuss belts...
Denny k8do(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Allan W. Mojzisik" <prober(at)iwaynet.net> |
| Subject: | N - number reservation and vacation in Orlando |
I know this has been been discussed on the list but I can't figure out =
how to get the archives to work with this Delrina CommSuite software. (I =
downloaded them, but I can't figure out how to read what I got.) Who do =
you contact with the FAA to reserve an "N" number? I believe it was in =
Oklahoma City and you request your top three choices. Also I will be in =
Orlando Fla. on June 16 - 22 if anyone has a project or plane they would =
like to show off I would love to see it. please contact me direct at =
prober(at)iwaynet.net to keep list chatter down. Thanks,
Al
prober(at)iwaynet.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RV6junkie(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: 3 blade props |
I have a 3-bladed wood prop from Performance on my RV-6. This thing is a
work of art. It is very smooth and quiet. When I finally paint my plane I
think that I'll just paint the tips of the prop so everybody can see the
workmanship.
As for it's performance...it goes real good. I see 75% (at 7-8000') cruise
numbers of about 163 to 167 knots @ 2640 to 2680 rpm. Down low I get about
+/- 170 Knots @ 2740-2760 rpm. It's still in rough form as I haven't sent it
back yet for it's final finish. I can't imangine that it could improve any
more.
I love the three bladed prop but it cost big bucks. About $1400 in 1993.
Clark Lydick is the owner of Performance and he is really good to work with.
He asked me about 101 questions about what I wanted in the way of aircraft
performance before he cut wood. He really nailed it. He can be reached at
520-394-2059.
Gary Corde
RV-6 N211GC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)villagenet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: COMING OUT OF THE CLOSET |
>
>Question:
>
>I have been priming all my parts with Variprime. Would it be a general
>consensus that I should do the same to all my steel parts in my fuselage
>kit (i.e. engine mount, gear legs, landing gear ect...) ? What would be
>a good paint to apply to the engine mount and landing gear parts?
>
>
>
>
>
I had my engine mount, gear mount and rudder pedals powder coated on my
RV-6A. They came out real well. The powder coating is a much harder finish
than any paint that you would find. The other steel parts were painted with
Imron.
Hope this helps.
-Scott N506RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Advice On Painting / Preping |
One thing I like to do after the alumiprep/alodine step is
to wipe dry with clean paper towls (optional)
but for sure use compressed air hose and blow dry.
You need to blow around each rivet and aroud all the seams.
This will blow out all the water that creeps under these seams and
rivets. I think if you just let it dry on its own it could still
have moisture under the seams/rivets after several days (unless you
let it set in the sun.
If you wipe the area dry first and then blow dry the seams/rivets you
will see all the hidden water that the air blows out.
By the way, I have heard/read that you should ideally prime it within
24 hours after the alodine step. I guess this is to prevent any
more oxidation of the AL. This is often not possible but a good goal.
Also if it sets around it just starts collecting dust.
Herman
> My wings are completed and I have decided to paint them, I have the follwing
> questions:
>
> 1.) If I alumiprep & alodine the outside of the wing skins, is that
> corrosive material going to get inside my wing through rivet holes etc and
> cause corrosion inside the wing. Or said another way, is this to dangerous
> to do to be worthwhile ( I should have alumipreped each part before I
> riveted it !).
>
> 2.) Here is the sequence I was going to use, any comments or experience with
> this stuff are appreciated.
>
> - alumiprep / alodine / wash outside of wing
> - let dry for a couple of days
> - spray Randacryl Epibond off white primer, let dry 12 hours
> - spray 3 light coats of Randacryl Acrylic laquer (Insignia White)
> - Let dry a few weeks and apply vinyl adhesive pin striping etc for color
>
> 3.) Any comments or experience with a good spray gun to buy, and should it
> be hvlp ?
>
> *** I chose acrylic laquer because it it very easy to use, drys quick, easy
> to fix scratches and nicks. I know it is not as nice as the new paints
> (Centari, Imron, etc), but it is easier for a novice to use and maintain.
>
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
>
> Scott Johnson rvgasj(at)mcs.com
>
> P.S. Check out my RV web page with construction pictures at
> http://www.mcs.net/~rvgasj/rv6a.html
>
--------------------------------------------------------
*NOTICE for internet mail*: Any ideas or thoughts expressed here are my
own and are independent of my employer.
Herman Dierks, Dept. E54S, AWSD, Austin, Texas
mail: dierks(at)austin.ibm.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Marc LeFevre <rv8(at)hpbs2412.boi.hp.com> |
Just a quick question. The plans for the HS/VS/Wing jig doesn't
mention the proper height for the horizontal member of the "H".
I'm sure that's because it'll depend on the builders height. Can
anyone make a recommendation that'll work for HS,VS and wings.
Personal replies will minimize list traffic.
Thanks,
Marc LeFevre
RV8
rv8(at)hpbs2412.boi.hp.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | RE: how to get N number (and how to certify) again.. |
Regarding the question on how to get a N number, see below. Herman
>
> Here is some info I put together for our EAA Ch 187 based on what I did
> to certify my RV4 in Dec 95.
> There have been some questions on this lately so this may help. Herman
>
>
> CERTIFICATION of AMATURE-BUILT AIRCRAFT. Page 1 of 2
> Feb, 1, 1996
> Herman Dierks
>
> Reference: FAA Advisory Circular 20-27D 6/22/90 (may not be latest).
> This document was a little confusing. Below is my 'flow chart'
> of what needs to be done.
>
> 1) RESERVE N-NUMBER 60 to 90 days before completion.
> Send $10.00 and a list of 5 possible N-numbers to
> FAA Aircraft Registry, P.O. Box 25504, Oklahoma City, OK 73125
> (see example form attached below curtisy of Gil Alexander, which
> is simpler than that published in 20-27D but they don't need to
> know what the model of the plane, etc is at this point as you
> can put the number on what ever plane you choose when you register it.
>
> You can call 405-954-3116 to see if a number is available.
> You can look up N-numbers on the Web of Registered (not reserved)
> N-numbers at http://acro.harvard.edu/GA/search_nnr.html
> You can also get there via the IAC home page:
> Go to http://acro.harvard.edu/IAC/iac_homepg.html
> and then select 'Other General Aviation related information' and
> then select 'N-Number lookup'.
>
> Note that a N-number is reserved for up to 1 year. They will
> send you a notice when it is about to expire. You can keep sending
> in $10.00 a year to hold it until you are ready for step 2.
>
> 2) FAA will send back a confirmation of what N number is reserved
> and will also send you a copy of:
> Form 8050-88, Affidavit of Ownership for Amateur-Built Aircraft.
> Form 8050-1, Aircraft Registration Appication
>
> Fill out 8050-88 and have it Notarized. Fill out 8050-1 and send
> the two forms and $5.00 to the address on form 8050-1.
> You keep the 'pink' copy and this is the 'Registration' form
> that can be used in the aircraft for 90 days.
> You may also want to send a copy of the Kit Bill of Sale or
> authority to build the kit. This should be done a few weeks
> before the aircraft is ready to fly.
>
> 3) The FAA will send you back form 8050-3 which is your official
> 'Certificate of Aircraft Registration' which you put in the
> aircraft (to replace the pink copy). Check it for errors and
> notify FAA at 405-954-3116 if any errors are found.
>
> 4) Radio Station License. At the same time you do step 2, you
> should apply for the radio license. Obtain a current 'FCC 404'
> form from your local avionics shop. Get their help on how to
> fill it out. For example, you need to put 'PAAR' in box 8
> but this is only defined in a special book which you don't have.
> Send this form to the FCC along with $75.00 ( the current fee
> for this 'non-service' or tax which may be repealed).
>
> 5) Other requirements before the FAA signoff.
> 1) N-number on plane. 3 inches high or 12 inches if Cruse > 180K.
> 2) EXPERIMENTAL 2 inch high sticker.
> 3) 'Passenger Warning' placard (except single place).
> 4) Fireproof 'Data Plate' (builders name is the manufacture).
> 5) Logbooks for airframe and engine.
> 6) Placard and operating limitations. (check-lists?).
> 7) Weight and Balance
>
> Page 2 of 2
>
> 6) 'FAA' inspection
> The FAA can inspect the plane (for free) or you can use a
> DAR which is a private individual approved by the FAA.
> Our local DAR is Richard Dumler 512-441-0629.
> The DAR will charge a fee, about $225.00 for the service.
> Why us a DAR? He is local and will probably come out when you
> want him to (the FAA shows up when they want to). Dick will
> show up when he says he will. He will come out twice.
> He will give you the test area you want, within reason.
>
> The DAR provided the following forms and will help you fill it out
> or you can get them from the GADO and have them filled out
> before the inspector shows up. Know what flight test area you want.
>
> Form 8130-6, Application for Airworthiness Certificate
> Form 8610-2, Airman Certificate &/or Rating Application
> (this is for your 'repairman' certificate).
> These forms will be filled out and signed by both of you
> and the DAR will send them in to the FAA.
> He will also want copies of your Weight & Balance form and
> copies of several pages of your log books and copies of
> of the N-number and Registration forms from above.
>
> 7) The Inspector (DAR) will give you the signed Airworthiness Cert.
> He will also give you two other forms.
> 8130-1, Experimental Operating Limitations (Phase 1 for
> the flight test period).
> 8130-1, Same form, but this one is Phase 2 which begins after
> the flight test period is signed off by the builder.
> These are part of the 'Operating Limitations' and go in the
> aircraft.
> You now have all the 'ARROW' documents!
>
> Other Notes:
>
> Have project inspected 3 times by EAA 'Technical Counselor'
> and receive a 10% discount on insurance from Avemco/National.
>
> ( I deleted names of our CH 187 TC's here).
>
> Work with an EAA 'Flight Advisor' and complete the associated
> paperwork and the first 10 hours will also be covered by above
> insurance company (otherwise it is excluded).
>
> (I deleted names of our CH 187 FA's here)
>
> Form letter to reserve N number:
>
> RESERVATION OF AN "N" NUMBER
>
>
> I wish to reserve a Registration Number to be
> used at a later date. The fee to reserve a Registration
> Number is $10 per year.
>
> My choices are:
>
> 1.
>
> 2.
>
> 3.
>
> 4.
>
> 5.
>
>
>
> Signature: ____________________________
>
>
> Name: _________________________________
>
> Address: ______________________________
>
> _______________________________________
>
> _______________________________________
>
> Phone: ________________________________
>
>
>
> Mail request and Fee to:
>
> FAA Aircraft Registry
> PO Box 25504
> Oklahoma City, OK 73125
>
>
>
> Herman Dierks, Dept. E54S, AWSD, Austin, Texas
> mail: dierks(at)austin.ibm.com
>
>
Herman Dierks, Dept. E54S, AWSD, Austin, Texas
mail: dierks(at)austin.ibm.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: COMING OUT OF THE CLOSET |
v>
>I have an O-320 AIA on standby for installation and use( 3000 TT , 900
>SMOH) Yes, I am planning to find a different Sump so it will fit in a
>6A version.
I also used an 0320 (no suffix) (but an A1A) with the carb on the rear bottom of
the
sump - don't be too quick to change yours out. The fact is that it will fit. I
used
Van's FAB intake, but had to make a new top plate to move the box forward in relation
to the carb. Also, I made the Fibreglass bowl detachable from the top plate to
facilitate easy filter changes - It can be done. I have about 1/4" clearance between
the Air box rear and the gear leg. I called Vans some time back to let them know
that
they could pass the info on to other 6A builders but I guess they forgot... Oh
well..
Let me know if you need more info on this.
Best regards Rob Lee RV6a - 22626 - N517RL
av8r(at)hic.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
I need some advice re: fitting my F-622 baggage compartment rib. I've
got the notches cut so the F-622 and F-624 ribs interlock. Also I've
got the foreward end of the F-622 attached to the F-605 Bulkhead. My
problem lies in attaching the aft end of the F-622 rib to the F-606
Bulkhead, I have to pull the F-622 rib to fit where it needs to go on
the F-606 bulkhead thereby putting the F-622 in a slight bind. I
could relieve this bind by cutting part of the inside flange of the
F-622 out where it contacts the F-624 but the plans show installing a
#4 rivet here.
All advice welcome
chet razer
crazer(at)egyptian.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DerFlieger(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Engines (Was "Closet") |
snowmass.ksc.nasa.gov!maynardb(at)matronics.com (Maynard, Bryon) writes:
>I have an O-320 AIA on standby for installation and use( 3000 TT , 900
>SMOH) Yes, I am planning to find a different Sump so it will fit in a
>6A version.
>
>
Byron,
Congratulations on your progress! I read with interest your comment abaout
different sumps and I wanted to relate a tale which could save you and others
from a "gotcha".
Local experienced builder (9 airplanes) got an 0-320 which had very little
available history, including no data plate. He got a new data plate calling
it an E2D, I think, but thats not important. The engine had been "gone over"
by a VERY experienced engine man. The RV3 in which it was installed suffered
from very poor carburation (sp?) including rough running, couldn't lean it, a
step in rpm, etc. etc..... After at least six months of sleuthing, including
atomizer mods, carb exchange, etc. etc...finally our friend Bob Brashear
noticed the sump was from an 0-360 engine! They changed it and all the
problems went away.
Jim Stugart, Austin, TX
DerFlieger(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com (William Costello ) |
| Subject: | Stall Warning Devices |
Hi Folks,
The latest issue of the RVator listed a source of stall warning devices
in England. Fellow by the name of Don Richardson. Does anyone on the
list know if he is on the list or has an email address?
While I am at it, does anyone know of a source here in the US? Seems
like I remember a thread a while back about building one, but I don't
recall anyone saying anything about a 'kit' available.
Best regards,
Bill Costello
bcos(at)ix.netcom.com
--
___ _____________________________
\ \ _ _ / /
\ /? \ / \ / Bill Costello Chicago \
X-*#####*******......./ N97WC (reserved) /
o/\ \ \_\ \ RV-6 on left elev. \
\__\ \ bcos(at)ix.netcom.com /
\____________________________\
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: COMING OUT OF THE CLOSET |
I am interested to learn more about the fuselage jig you're using. Could you
pass the information please.
Tony Moradian
funtfly(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pat McClung <pmc123(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: COMING OUT OF THE CLOSET |
Maynard, Bryon wrote:
>
> Hello
>
> My name is Bryon T. Maynard. I figure it was time I came out and
> introduce my self proper to the list. Have been reading the list for
> about a year now.
>
> I currently building an RV-6A. The tail is completed and the wings are
> 98% completed. I just receive my fuselage kit yesterday.
>
> I have an O-320 AIA on standby for installation and use( 3000 TT , 900
> SMOH) Yes, I am planning to find a different Sump so it will fit in a
> 6A version.
>
> I am using a Stephen Frey Jig for my fuselage. So sweet , worth the
> money.
>
> Bio:
>
> Home Place: I live in Rockledge, Florida (20 miles south of Kennedy
> Space Center)
>
> Occupation: NASA Mechanical Experiment Engineer (Assemble, place and
> retrieve experiment in the space shuttle)
>
> Question:
>
> I have been priming all my parts with Variprime. Would it be a general
> consensus that I should do the same to all my steel parts in my fuselage
> kit (i.e. engine mount, gear legs, landing gear ect...) ? What would be
> a good paint to apply to the engine mount and landing gear parts?I had mine powdercoated,
white. beautiful.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rmickey(at)ix.netcom.com |
HS/VS jig about waist high.
Wing jig
The main spar should be situated so when the leading edge is put on, it
will be above your head. Very little is done at the leading edge and alot
is done at the trailing edge re: hanging flaps and ailerons. I had mine so
I needed a stool to work on the light installation. I am glad I had it this
high
Ross Mickey
>
>Just a quick question. The plans for the HS/VS/Wing jig doesn't
>mention the proper height for the horizontal member of the "H".
>I'm sure that's because it'll depend on the builders height. Can
>anyone make a recommendation that'll work for HS,VS and wings.
>
>Personal replies will minimize list traffic.
>
>Thanks,
>Marc LeFevre
>RV8
>rv8(at)hpbs2412.boi.hp.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pat McClung <pmc123(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Demo ride near San Antonio, TX |
Tim Lewis wrote:
>
> I'm looking for an RV-6 or RV-6A owner who would be willing to take me on
> a demo flight. I live in San Antonio, TX, and I plan to order a 6A within
> a month. I've asked asked around the local RV builders I know, but I've
> not found anybody available yet. I'm of course willing to pay gas and any
> other costs.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim Lewis
> Coml, IA, ASELTim, As soon as I get my restrictions flown off, I'll be coming
into SA
for a family visit. Usually land at Belverde. Give me a phone &
address and I'll get in touch. If you haven't found a ride by then, be
glad to take you.
Pat McClung
Rt 1, Box 204-J
McKinney, TX 75070
e-mail---pmc123(at)airmail.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Chandler" <mauser(at)Claris.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Hooker Harnesses |
> >Beats me. All I know is that when I saw the title on this message,
> >I thought: "Hooker Harnesses. What a perfect way to carry your
> >Baggage!"
> >
>
> Whats the beef on Hooker's work. I have a 5 point system that's has
> been holding my butt in place for 2 years and works fine. We also
> have them(ratcheting version) in two competition aerobatic planes in
> our hangar.
> Everybody likes them. Maybe somebody is peeved because they aren't
> cheap or he had to wait to get them. I'd like to see the facts. There
> is nothing I can see that needs to be improved. IMHO Hooker makes the
> best.
Sheesh, it was a Pun! A Pun! Don't be so sensitive!
(Hint, look at alternate, slang meanings for the term baggage. If you need
more help, e-mail mauser(at)claris.com)
--
"Wait a minute, you expect us innocent children to climb up dangerous
scaffolding and paint naked people all over a church? We'll do it!!"
-- Yakko Warner, Animaniacs
"Yeah, I've got ADD, you wanna make something of.... oooh, cool. Look!"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dcahoon(at)intellinet.com (David Cahoon) |
I talked to a gentlemen today ( Carl Fich) near Portland re: doing the
pro-seal work on my fuel tanks. (I cannot handle to clean up fumes) (Super
sinus trouble) has anyone on the list had him do any work?
David Cahoon
Jonesboro, Arkansas
dcahoon(at)intellinet.com
_______
!
\______________________(*)_____________________/
Memphis Soaring Society
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)crl.com> |
| Subject: | Lycoming Sump Help |
I'm hoping someone on this list can help me. I have an IO320-B1A that
I'm planning to put in my RV-6. The B1A has the Benix fuel injection
servo mounted on the aft face of the sump.
I want to replace the existing sump with one that mounts the servo on the
forward part of the bottom, but so far I have not had any luck finding
the part number.
I need one of two things:
1. The Lycoming part number of the correct sump, or:
2. The model number of the IO320 that the correct sump is on.
Suggestion, anyone?
Thanks in advance,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: F622 Fitting |
On Fri, 17 May 1996, chester razer wrote:
> I need some advice re: fitting my F-622 baggage compartment rib. I've
> got the notches cut so the F-622 and F-624 ribs interlock. Also I've
> got the foreward end of the F-622 attached to the F-605 Bulkhead. My
> problem lies in attaching the aft end of the F-622 rib to the F-606
> Bulkhead, I have to pull the F-622 rib to fit where it needs to go on
> the F-606 bulkhead thereby putting the F-622 in a slight bind. I
> could relieve this bind by cutting part of the inside flange of the
> F-622 out where it contacts the F-624 but the plans show installing a
> #4 rivet here.
I trimmed off a small part of the inside flange of F-622, just like you
are talking about. I also joggled the outside flange of F-624 where the
two intersect so that I have a nice smooth intersection. I then put a #4
rivet at that intersection.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
Fitting F-672 fwd bottom skin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | snoopyar(at)usa.pipeline.com (Davi Howard) |
Does anyone know if the April RVator has been sent out yet?
--
Davi
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis/Michael Kosta <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
At 05:11 AM 5/18/96 GMT, you wrote:
>Does anyone know if the April RVator has been sent out yet?
>--
>Davi
>
>
Yes, I got mine 2 days ago.
Michael
mikel(at)dimensional.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tank Krafters |
I had Carl build a replacement tank for a customer's -4, and the work was
good. I'd reccomend him.
Rgds
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AB320FLYER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: COMING OUT OF THE CLOSET |
Bryon,
I talked to Vans about priming steel parts a couple of days ago and they
don't recommend using self etching primer on steel. The acid makes the steel
more brittle according to Bill. He recommended using Rust-oleum Primer and
rust inhibiting top coat from spray cans.
Joel
ab320flyer
RV8-( HS spars completed)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <74774.54(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Wing Spar rivets |
Can you folks recommend a method to determine the length of the 3/16" rivets for
the wing spars. For now I am pushing one through and cutting it down to 9/32 in
height from the web. Any suggestions
Rick
74774.54(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dale(at)ecnet.com (dale) |
>Does anyone know if the April RVator has been sent out yet?
>--
>Davi
>
>Yes it has, I got mine last week!
--
Registered ICC User
check out http://www.usefulware.com/icc.html
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | billphil(at)ix.netcom.com (William Phillips ) |
| Subject: | Latest on the (R V-6 A) project in Las Vegas |
Just a note on our-- R V-6 A-- project. In static and high speed
runs this week we tried to get some of the bugs out. We enriched the
Edelbrock carburetor one notch by installing the next size jetting
rods. We are still having some trouble finding the best timing
settings for the dual ignition. Were running two sets of points
independently on separate coils and timing one 5 degrees retarded of
the other (which should be right on). In this case if I get detonation
on takeoff Id switch coils to a more retarded setting and could make
it around the pattern.
In a static run this week with our new Warp-Drive propeller I
turned the 10 pound carbon fiber three blade up to 2600 rpm with an
engine rpm of about 3700. When making a high speed run the
acceleration was marginal until I got about 10 to 15 mph forward speed
then the prop dug in like a tick on a dog and started biting air. Rpm
decreased slightly to 3660. I accelerated to 70 mph "true" in 10
seconds which comes out to just over 10 ft/s/s acceleration. The
density altitude was 5000 and OAT was 92 degrees F. With a gross
weight of 1460 that works out to a thrust of 450 pounds, or about a
30% thrust to weight ratio. It felt good. It went like a bullet.
Just to throw some numbers around, if I can get 200mph out of the
airplane and maintain thrust at that speed of around 400 pounds that
will be equivalent to 200 horsepower. Actually, 293 ft/s x 400
lb/550 ft-lb/hp =213 hp. Oh well thats just speculation but its fun
to dream about what it might do.
I was concerned about fuel flow this week because until we found we
were running a bit lean at full power, the engine ran a bit rough at
full throttle and I thought it might be fuel flow. We ran a flow check
of the actual gasoline pumped through the float pins of the Edelbrock
Carb. With the main (Honda ) pump we produced a flow of 22 gal/hr and
with the Aux pump ON (Vans), we produced 33 gal/hr. The engineers
feel that in the worst case a detuned engine might swallow .54 BSFC.
At 200 hp that works out to 18 gal/hr. Reality with this Vortec engine
will probably be in the range of .4 BSFC or about 13.5 gal/hr at 200
hp. So we have plenty of fuel for these scenarios. Ill use both
pumps on take off and climb of course.
Thats about it. Were working on the timing today, making some
last minute cowling mods and Tom "Fly em Faster" Jones is rewiring some
things he found a better way of doing. The right brake is a little
spongy so thats my (Badwater Bills) project for tomorrow. Our
existing spinner doesnt fit the new Warp Drive prop so the airframe
engineers (Don "Deadstick" Heath and John "Spin em up" Crenshaw) are
building something that will work. We also made a slight modification
to Jess "Dipstick" Meyers PSRU by adding a belt tension adjustment
system to it which can be used by normal mortals. This provides an
all new concept to the PSRU, i.e. ease in belt tensioning in the field!
And its 100% backup/redundant to the original design. Should anything
ever desire to slip, it can't. It kind of works like Jack-screws on
the main propeller bearings, a beautiful design by Bill "The Guru"
Harold.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Curt Reimer <Curt_Reimer(at)MBnet.MB.CA> |
| Subject: | To Bulge or not to Bulge |
Thanks to Randall Henderson, and his detailed and patient explaination, I
have finally figured out this whole RV-6 aft fuselage "bulge" revision. I
have decided to include the "bulge" in my airplane.
Here is the story: The construction manual tells you to align your aft
fuselage bulkheads (F606, 607, 608, 610, 611, 612) so that the skins will
lie flat. You do this by stretching a string along the bulkheads and
using that as a guide to align them. However, the F607 and F608 bulkheads
have since been revised to be 1/4 inch wider than they should be to line
up properly. This results in a 1/8" bulge along the side of the fuselage.
The explaination for this is that the factory forming of the aft side
skins results in the skins being slightly stretched so that they no
longer want to lie perfectly flat. The 1/8" bulge allows the skins to be
nice and tight. Without the bulge i.e. with perfectly straight fuselage
sides, the skins would tend to oilcan.
Having looked at my side skins, I can now see that they are indeed a bit
wavy looking. I decide to include the bulge as now called for in the
plans. Unfortunately, the manual makes no mention of this, and in fact
calls for you to make the side flat, even if you have to move the
bulkheads fore and aft! This is no longer correct, but plenty of "flat
sided" RV-6s exist, so it isn't a major issue either way.
It sure was perplexing though. Initially it wasn't very aesthetically
pleasing to have a bulge in my fuselage sides, but I kind of like the
idea now. It gives it a bit of that Lancair pinched-tail look, although to
even notice it you have to sight along the fuselage. Randall said he
widened his F610 to continue the new contour, but I left my 610 stock.
If you see a guy at Oshkosh this year on his knees sighting along RV-6
fuselage sides, it'll be yours truly! :)
Thanks again Randall.
-Curt Reimer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Curt Reimer <Curt_Reimer(at)MBnet.MB.CA> |
| Subject: | Re: F622 Fitting |
On Fri, 17 May 1996, chester razer wrote:
> I need some advice re: fitting my F-622 baggage compartment rib. I've
> got the notches cut so the F-622 and F-624 ribs interlock. Also I've
> got the foreward end of the F-622 attached to the F-605 Bulkhead. My
> problem lies in attaching the aft end of the F-622 rib to the F-606
> Bulkhead, I have to pull the F-622 rib to fit where it needs to go on
> the F-606 bulkhead thereby putting the F-622 in a slight bind. I
> could relieve this bind by cutting part of the inside flange of the
> F-622 out where it contacts the F-624 but the plans show installing a
> #4 rivet here.
I had the same problem and decided to cut the flange to allow a
non-binding fit. WHen I get around to installing the baggage sides I'll
reconsider the situation and perhaps install a splice plate.
I find the whole F622-F624-F623 arrangement is a less than perfect fit,
and will require some judicious flange bending to get the a good fit to
the skins when I install them. The other option I have is to leave the
aft end of the F623 unattached and"floating" until the skins go on, and
then letting the skins decide where it will finally be. I think this is
what George does in the video, although he doesn't explicitly say so.
Curt Reimer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Scott Gesele <scottg(at)villagenet.com> |
| Subject: | rv-list: RST Audio Panel |
I am just starting my panel and am considering using the RST audio panel
with marker beacon receiver and intercom. Has anyone on this list used this
product? If so, what are your feelings about it (good or bad)? Are the
kits complete and relatively straight forward with regards to construction?
Does the product work as advertised?
The main reason I want to install it, besides the entire package only
costing about $300, is that I get to build it myself.
Thanks in advance.
-Scott N506RV
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Propellor Question |
For those of you that have the Sensenich;
Are any of you doing acrobatics? I see that Sens. recommends no acro with
the prop.
John D
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chester razer <crazer(at)egyptian.net> |
| Subject: | Re: To Bulge or not to Bulge |
Curt, thanks to you and Randall for your informative outline of the
bulkhead and baggage rib situation. I spent the entire day in the
garage at 90 degrees (summer finally got here) studying that exact
situation. Actually my F-608 was the only bulkhead slightly too wide
so I let it find its own place along the longerons and ended moving it
forward approximately .25". This gave me the straight longerons the
manual called for. After reading your message however, I may
reconsider the situation and put F-608 where the book specifies and
create that small bulge.
I also spent time today trying to figure out what to do with the
foreward flange and rivet spacing on the F-629 rib where it contacts
the F-606 bulkhead around the elevator pushtube cutout hole.
As for the F-622/624 situation, I think I'll just put it on hold until
I can see how the baggage compartment panels fit. I looked closely at
George's video and he pulls the F-622 in place just like we've been
doing. My TV is not detailed enough to see if he has modified his
F-622 or not.
Just like you, my F-623 will float until skinning time.
thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Ayers <102337.2252(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Sump Help |
>I'm hoping someone on this list can help me. I have an IO320-B1A that
>I'm planning to put in my RV-6. The B1A has the Benix fuel injection
>servo mounted on the aft face of the sump.
>I want to replace the existing sump with one that mounts the servo on the
>forward part of the bottom, but so far I have not had any luck finding
>the part number.
>I need one of two things:
>1. The Lycoming part number of the correct sump, or:
>2. The model number of the IO320 that the correct sump is on.
>Suggestion, anyone?
>Thanks in advance,
>Dave Barnhart
>rv-6 sn 23744
I usually call Jim Switzer at (714) 646-7093 in Orange County, California for
any major Lycoming engine part questions I have, and for the availability of the
odd parts for changes like you are asking about. Of course, Jim is a "local"
source for me, and I have used his judgment to help keep me out of trouble with
mismatches in hardware.
Jim Ayers
LOM M332A RV-3 N47RV Maroon Marauder
102337.2252(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rv-list: RST Audio Panel |
Scott,
Becki and I has the RST audio panel in our 2ND RV6A and really like it. The
panel has many features htat all work well ,the intercomm is clear and also
works well. The kit was complete minus a couple of back order parts that came
a couple of days later. The kit went together easy by following the
instruction. Any question please write or call and we would be glad to talk
to you about this.(301)293-1505.......George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Japundza <bob(at)holli.com> |
| Subject: | Hartzell propellor |
guys:
I have a hartzell prop hub and blades that I purchased off a local guy
who put a 3 blade mccauley on his '73 arrow. I paid the whopping sum of
$250 for the blades and the hub which were rejected by Hartzell.
The blades and hub are in *excellent* cosmetic shape, as they only have
700 hrs TT.
The caveat: the blades were rejected by Hartzell for having shanks
measured undersize. They both measure 3.3435". Talking to several
different sources (prop shops), they have said they would have no
problems with putting together an experimental propellor together, and
it is usuable. They would use a heavier seal material on the shank to
make up for the dimensions. The type of heavier teflon tape they used
is Hamilton-Standard stuff. The prop blades have an earlier serial
number, before hartzell changed heat treating processes. Apparantly,
the later blades have lower shank limits because of the better heat
treating process. The hub has some green stains on them from being
magnafluxed, but I am not sure whats wrong with it, because I can't see
any cracks, even with a magnafying glass.
Opinions? Think this stuff is usuable, anyone?
Bob Japundza
RV-6 instrument panel being installed
Shocked at how much post lights cost me. Amongst other things.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Curt Reimer <Curt_Reimer(at)MBnet.MB.CA> |
| Subject: | Re: To Bulge or not to Bulge |
On Sat, 18 May 1996, chester razer wrote:
> I also spent time today trying to figure out what to do with the
> foreward flange and rivet spacing on the F-629 rib where it contacts
> the F-606 bulkhead around the elevator pushtube cutout hole.
This is another one of those RV mysteries. I decided to cut away just
enough of the F629 flange to allow for the pushrod hole. Then I drilled
the remaining bit of the rib flange for 3 #3 rivets. With the smaller
rivets I can manage the edge distance OK. From what I gather according to
Van's, you don't bother trying to get rivets in there, but I saw that I
could, so I did.
Curt Reimer
reimer@mbnet .mb.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JDAviator(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell propellor |
>I have a hartzell prop hub and blades that I purchased off a local guy
>who put a 3 blade mccauley on his '73 arrow. I paid the whopping sum of
>$250 for the blades and the hub which were rejected by Hartzell.
>
>The blades and hub are in *excellent* cosmetic shape, as they only have
>700 hrs TT.
>
>The caveat: the blades were rejected by Hartzell for having shanks
>measured undersize. They both measure 3.3435". Talking to several
>different sources (prop shops), they have said they would have no
>problems with putting together an experimental propellor together, and
>it is usuable. They would use a heavier seal material on the shank to
>make up for the dimensions. The type of heavier teflon tape they used
>is Hamilton-Standard stuff. The prop blades have an earlier serial
>number, before hartzell changed heat treating processes. Apparantly,
>the later blades have lower shank limits because of the better heat
>treating process. The hub has some green stains on them from being
>magnafluxed, but I am not sure whats wrong with it, because I can't see
>any cracks, even with a magnafying glass.
>
>Opinions? Think this stuff is usuable, anyone?
>
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 instrument panel being installed
>Shocked at how much post lights cost me. Amongst other things.
>
>
Hello Bob:
My experience with Hartzell is that they will scrap blades for ANY reason, at
the drop of a hat! I do not let them get a hold of any of the props on the
fleet of 6 King Air B100's we operate for just that reason.
If you have a reputable prop shop telling you your hub is ok, and the blades
otherwise pass the muster (no cracks, no corrosion in the pilot bore, etc),
then I would go for it! If the hub is serviceable, and you want a certified
prop (assuming you'd go with a certified engine/prop combination), you can
find used, serviceable blades at reasonable prices.
Good Luck!
Jerry Allison
JDAviator(at)aol.com
Piano bought for the Wife and Daughter, RV-8 soon!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Ahearn <ahearns(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzell propellor |
"the blades were rejected by Hartzell"
Thats enough for me to say no thanks. This may end up being a long
thread but when it comes to a CS 3 bladed prop, I know I'd the
confidence it is up to spec.
IMHO
Dan
RV-6 23101
still plans only
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "E. Amadio" <e_amadio(at)vaxxine.com> |
------ =_NextPart_000_01BB45E0.987C62A0
Denny:
In your posting of the 17th you stated that the V-6 would need a =
special after market cam to run the engine at it's torque peak when it =
is at 3800 RPM.=20
This is untrue. This engine develops it's peak torque at 2800 RPM =
and maintains it right on up to 4400 RPM.
Please see my attachment ( I sent this data before for those who =
have been following this discussion).
Regards,
Ernie Amadio
Still finishing my RV-6 Factory
C-170-B ,C-FJJK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Of First Flights and Wedding Nights |
Re: your metaphor of not allowing one's wife to be test flown.
And truly who among us has not wished, albeit fleetingly, for a relief
driver, and/or maybe a pit crew for both events?
Fly and couple with equal parts competence, gusto and grace! This be the
true path.
-N1GV
(fuselage in the process of migrating to hangar)
"Inventions have long since reached their limit. I see no hope for further
development"--Julius Frontinius, ancient world famous engineer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | wesleyt <wesleyt(at)twave.net> |
I know that this has nothing to do with RV's but I am trying to decode an
E-mail attachment type ms-tnef in base64 encoding with netscape
navigator.
Is there a plug-in I need to view this?
Wesley
wesleyt(at)twave.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Another DEMO ride request |
I've been lurking on the list for about a year now and am very close
to starting a 6A. Before I start though, I would truly love to
experience the RV grin. I've flown only Cessna 152/172's and haven't
done much of that lately. I'm willing to travel a reasonable
distance (200 miles?) from the Norfolk/ VA Beach area. If anyone
out there can help me with a demo ride, I'll be your best friend for
life. Many Thanks.
Buddy Cook
cooke@eustis-emh9.army.mil
Days 804-727-2305
Nights 804-488-9310
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeffery Lorimor <x1lorimo(at)exnet.iastate.edu> |
Where do the plans show rivets, size, spacing, etc. for attaching the seat
ribs to the 604 bulkhead. I've looked and looked & can't find it...must be
blind.
Jeff Lorimor
Putting RV-6 fusalage in jig
Boone, IA
x1lorimo(at)exnet.iastate.edu (...that's x-one, not x-ell)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Cocker <74710.2737(at)CompuServe.COM> |
I have come to the stage where I need to pay out some real money for radios. I
like the Terra line, as they are so small, and they have the intercom. capacity.
however the King/Bendix line are less expensive.
I was thinking of just getting COM and Transponder with encoder.
John Cocker RV6A (Making the baffles for the motor)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Cocker <74710.2737(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Fuselage Jig available. |
I have a wooden jig for an RV 6A fuselage, it has already made two, I would be
glad to get ris of it for the price of the lumber. I live just north of Toronto.
John Cocker.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | walsh(at)cpeedy.ENET.dec.com |
| Subject: | (chatter) It's a small world after all... |
>From the small world department:
I went to a local aviation flea market in Northampton,N.H. Saturday.
As I was wandering through the planes with my 2 year old daughter, I came
across an RV-6A. While I was chatting with the owner, he promptly picked
up my daughter and plunked her down in the right seat of the 6a where she
began playing fighter pilot. She thought this was the coolest toy she had
ever seen! So, who does this intrepid RV pilot turn out to be?? Fred
Stucklen. Hmm... where have I heard that name before?
I just wanted to say thanks Fred. Let's see, last I saw, as I ran off chasing
my daughter, you were about to take a prospect for a ride. How'd that turn
out? I wish I could have seen him when you got back.
thanks again
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JPallist(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: rv-list: RST Audio Panel |
Built one of the RST audio panel/intercom/marker beacons for use in our
Cardinal about 6 years ago. Has worked fine. Went for the version with the
row of rectangular push buttons rather than the micro switches. Not as
classy looking, but much more functional in bumpy air.
Kit was complete and came with excellent instructions (plus a reassuring
option to send back to RST for final checks and corrections if needed... did
not need). Took several evenings to put together with standard electronic
soldering stuff. Rigged a temp. antenna to our car and drove out to the
marker beacon transmitters at the local airport to tune the marker receiver
(easy). Installed in airplane (with the appropriate FAA sign off) and got
the satisfaction of it functioning "5 by 5".
Cheers,
J.S. Pallister (JPallist(at)aol.com)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
Is the RV-list off the air or am I out of commision?
Bob Skinner BSkinner(at)ltec.net
________________________________________________________________________________
I ran into a guy today at a local flyin that has his RV-6 almost ready to
fly. It is presently in the NSI hanger having a 160hp Suburu installed. As
this is within 15 minutes of me I'll check on it soon and pass on any info if
the "list" is interested. It sounds like NSI is using his airplane as a
'prototype' for their engine conversion so they may plan a firewall fwd kit
for the RV (?).
Mike Talley
RV-6 putting the tips on the tail feathers and the new owner of a C-140 to
fly while I build
miket(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
One thing to consider on avionics is the warrenty period.
Many are based on the date of purchase.
Some of the suppliers will sell you the trays now so you can
install and wire it up and then you can buy the expensive part
later. In my case, my plane sat for about 3 yrs before I got
back to work on it. My avionics were 4 yrs old before they ever
flew.
I did have one problem with the Narco Comm 810-A but Western Avionics
fixed it with no charge a few months back. I just sent them copies
of the logs showing the plane was just licensed.
Herman
> Date: 20 May 96 09:26:56 EDT
> From: John Cocker <CompuServe.COM!74710.2737(at)matronics.com>
> To: All
> Subject: RV-List: Radios
>
> I have come to the stage where I need to pay out some real money for radios.
I
> like the Terra line, as they are so small, and they have the intercom. capacity.
> however the King/Bendix line are less expensive.
>
> I was thinking of just getting COM and Transponder with encoder.
>
> John Cocker RV6A (Making the baffles for the motor)
>
>
Herman Dierks, Dept. E54S, AWSD, Austin, Texas
mail: dierks(at)austin.ibm.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Nowakowski <nowakod(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Folks, If ayone out there is wondering whether to build their own or buy
Phlogiston spars, Here's some #'s that might you help make up your mind.
First I did the Left Spar which took a total of 56 hrs. I used the Harbor
freight Press
to set the rivets and much of this 56 hrs was spent making the necessary mods to
the press (approx 8hrs). I used the "A" frame press...if anyone wants my
mods let me
know and I will send them. As the first is always the hardest I felt confident
that I could do the right spar in 30 hrs.
Well, Just got finished with the right spar and it took 26 hrs! Both spars
came out
great IMHO. The press does an outstanding job of setting the rivets.
Total time was 82 hrs for both (if I had it to do again I could do the whole
job in
less than 50 hrs.....isn't that the way it goes....). This includes
everything from
receipt,prep,prime,rivet etc.etc.
Money invested.....Horbor Freight 12 ton "A" frame press $89 (on Sale) 99 if
not.
Approx $20 in 1/2 inch steel plate and miscellaneous hardware to modify it.
I am sure these aren't as pretty as the Phlog. spars (no Anodizing) but I would
bet they are as strong.
Anyways...food for thought. I thought about it for a long time then finally
decided (with some help from my bank account) to go for it. I'm glad I did.
And...I still have a press that will come in handy (already has) for other non
RV related stuff.
P.S. you can see from the above #'s that I am not a particularly fast
builder. I am sure
that some of you could do it much quicker than I.
Hope this helps somebody.......don
Don Nowakowski (RV-6 Wings...Spars done)
nowakod(at)worldnet.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | regs for homebuilts in different countries |
I'd like to hear from folks in countries other than the US regarding
regulations for homebuilts and flying in general in their countries.
Anyone who lives outside of the US or has direct knowledge of the
following subjects in countries other than the US I would appreciate
answers to the any of the following questions you have knowledge of.
Feel free to skip the items you don't know about.
Please respond via PRIVATE e-mail to:
randall(at)edt.com
I will summarize and post to the -list later.
-----
Please tell me which country you are from or are responding about,
and any of the following items you have knowledge of:
- Do homebuilts have to be certified to production standards?
- Can you do your own maintenance and/or inspections on a plane you
built yourself?
- What procedures are required for an airworthiness cert. (brief summary,
e.g. inspections required, by whom, certification standards, etc.)
- What restrictions apply (e.g. no aero, no IFR, etc, no night VFR, etc.)
- Are VFR flight plans required some or all of the time (homebuit or not)?
- Is nighttime VFR prohibited a) for homebuilts, b) for everyone?
- Is there a fee structure for using the ATC system or flying per se?
- Do you have to get prior permission to land at public use airports?
- Do people with US pilot certificates need to take a written or flight
test or jump through other hoops before flying solo and/or renting aircraft
in your country?
- Are you aware of any way that the US regulations are MORE strict than
those in your country?
- Any other comments on the differences between your country's regs and
US regs?
Thanks in advance!
Randall Henderson
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming Sump Help |
One alternative on this sump.
I know that on the IO-360 sumps, the casting is made such that
internally both the forward and rear mount plumbing is in the casting.
You can machine the front pad and install the injector on the front
and cover the rear pad with a flat plate.
You might look and see if your casting is made such that the front
mount just needs machined down and the holes tapped.
> I'm hoping someone on this list can help me. I have an IO320-B1A that
> I'm planning to put in my RV-6. The B1A has the Benix fuel injection
> servo mounted on the aft face of the sump.
>
> I want to replace the existing sump with one that mounts the servo on the
> forward part of the bottom, but so far I have not had any luck finding
> the part number.
>
> I need one of two things:
>
> 1. The Lycoming part number of the correct sump, or:
>
> 2. The model number of the IO320 that the correct sump is on.
>
> Suggestion, anyone?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Dave Barnhart
> rv-6 sn 23744
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------
*NOTICE for internet mail*: Any ideas or thoughts expressed here are my
own and are independent of my employer.
Herman Dierks, Dept. E54S, AWSD, Austin, Texas
mail: dierks(at)austin.ibm.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <lewis(at)artery.cmet.af.mil> |
| Subject: | Re: RST Audio Panel |
I built one of the RST portable intercoms several years ago (1990?). It
went together fairly well over a weekend. It's worked with few problems
for several years. I don't know how the squelch circuit in the RST audio
panel intercom works, but the one in the portable intercom I built is
touchy. One has to **carefully** tweak the controls to get the intercom to
break squelch when you speak.
I later installed a Flightcom intercom in my Grumman. It has more
advanced circuitry, and does a much better job of breaking squelch when
it should.
RST may have improved their circuitry since I built my intercom. I know
mine was an entirely transistor system, with no op amps or other
integrated circuits.
Tim Lewis
lurker, RV-6A builder wannabe
Coml IA ASEL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov |
This panel sounds interesting. How does on find out more. Like company
address, phone number, price, and other kinds of kits.
Warren Gretz
RV-6 N25WG
Denver
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ecole(at)ix.netcom.com (EDWARD COLE) |
You wrote:
>
>I ran into a guy today at a local flyin that has his RV-6 almost ready
to
>fly. It is presently in the NSI hanger having a 160hp Suburu
installed. As
>this is within 15 minutes of me I'll check on it soon and pass on any
info if
>the "list" is interested. It sounds like NSI is using his airplane as
a
>'prototype' for their engine conversion so they may plan a firewall
fwd kit
>for the RV (?).
>Mike Talley
>RV-6 putting the tips on the tail feathers and the new owner of a
C-140 to
>fly while I build
>miket(at)aol.com
>
Mike,
I'D BE INTERESTED IN THE PROGRESS, BUT BASED ON MY INQUIRIES, THIS IS A
$20,000 FIREWALL FWD PACKAGE.
Ed Cole
ecole(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | frankv(at)pec.co.nz |
| Subject: | HS-603; hand dimpling tool now required |
I'm in a peevish mood this morning.
Last night I wanted to do a bit more work on my HS. However, almost
immediately I got stumped. The problem is that the holes in the
flanges on the HS-603s need to be dimpled. I have the Avery dimpling
tool, but no hand squeezer or dimpler. Looks like I'm stuck with
either making a hand dimpling tool, or buying one from the US with
consequent high freight costs :-(
What annoys me about this is that I bought Avery's RV Tail Kit Starter
Tool Kit, and here I am working on just the second component and don't
have the right tool. I guess that Van's has changed the construction
method at some point. Carefully watching the Orndorff video I see that
George doesn't dimple the HS-603 at all; instead he countersinks the
skin (surely it's too thin??). Anyway, could someone near Avery's get
on to them and ask them to include a dimpling tool in their kits from
now on? As a service to new builders, Van's might let the toolkit
manufacturers know when they change the manufacturing technique so
that a new tool is required.
Grumble, grumble. Nobody better mess with me this morning :-(
--
--------------------------------------------------------------------
frankv(at)pec.co.nz | "Knowledge=Power=Energy=Matter=Mass;
Frank van der Hulst | A good bookshop is just a genteel
Software Engineer | Black Hole that knows how to read".
PEC(NZ) Ltd (Cardax), Marton | Terry Pratchett, "Guards! Guards!"
http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/ |
--------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BARNES_ERIC(at)tandem.com |
t mean anything)anC4U,S4@4W1A;F1A| Subject: | Wing Spars - thanks |
Don,
As there are a number of us soon to be builders out there, I'm sure I'm
not alone in saying this type of information will help me make informed
decisions. Thanks for the data.
Eric
Barnes_Eric(at)tandem.com
------------ ORIGINAL ATTACHMENT --------
SENT 05-20-96 FROM SMTPGATE (nowakod(at)worldnet.att.net)
Folks, If ayone out there is wondering whether to build their own or buy
Phlogiston spars, Here's some #'s that might you help make up your mind.
First I did the Left Spar which took a total of 56 hrs. I used the Harbor
freight Press
to set the rivets and much of this 56 hrs was spent making the necessary mods to
the press (approx 8hrs). I used the "A" frame press...if anyone wants my
mods let me
know and I will send them. As the first is always the hardest I felt confident
that I could do the right spar in 30 hrs.
Well, Just got finished with the right spar and it took 26 hrs! Both spars
came out
great IMHO. The press does an outstanding job of setting the rivets.
Total time was 82 hrs for both (if I had it to do again I could do the whole
job in
less than 50 hrs.....isn't that the way it goes....). This includes
everything from
receipt,prep,prime,rivet etc.etc.
Money invested.....Horbor Freight 12 ton "A" frame press $89 (on Sale) 99 if
not.
Approx $20 in 1/2 inch steel plate and miscellaneous hardware to modify it.
I am sure these aren't as pretty as the Phlog. spars (no Anodizing) but I would
bet they are as strong.
Anyways...food for thought. I thought about it for a long time then finally
decided (with some help from my bank account) to go for it. I'm glad I did.
And...I still have a press that will come in handy (already has) for other non
RV related stuff.
P.S. you can see from the above #'s that I am not a particularly fast
builder. I am sure
that some of you could do it much quicker than I.
Hope this helps somebody.......don
Don Nowakowski (RV-6 Wings...Spars done)
nowakod(at)worldnet.att.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael C. Gamble" <mgamble(at)chiba.netxn.com> |
------ =_NextPart_000_01BB465A.89200A80
Bob:
Sometimes things happen on a list, resubscribe.
Mick
----------
From: Bob Skinner[SMTP:ltec.net!BSkinner(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Friday, May 17, 1996 7:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV list-broken
Is the RV-list off the air or am I out of commision?
Bob Skinner BSkinner(at)ltec.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike & Shirley Hiscock" <shiscock(at)fox.nstn.ca> |
> I like the Terra line, as they are so small, and they have the intercom. capacity.
>however the King/Bendix line are less expensive.
I receive a magazine named Professional Pilot. They often do reader
surveys on different topics. One such topic is avionics. The readers who
use their radios almost every day are probably a pretty good unbiased
source of info. In the survey published in the Aug 94 issue they asked
user to rate avionics reliability.
Out of 18 companies, Terra was rated 17 with a 6.81 out of 10.
Bendix//King was rated 8 with a 8.55 out of 10. Top spot went to
Northstar, last to Canadian Marconi. Narco was 16th.
For easy to read manuals Terra was 16th. Bendix/King 2nd. Narco 15th.
They also rated Mfgr glitch response, loaner availability, AOG service and
tech reps. In the overall scoreUniversal Nav was #1. Bendix/King #4.
Narco #16. Terra last.
I fly for a living and I would feel comfortable about other pilots
commenting on their equipment. I have yet to decide what to put in
my RV-4, but I know what it won't be.
Mike Hiscock
shiscock(at)fox.nstn.ca
RV-4 installing control columns
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RELOSVCS!WESTREG!EHENSON(at)cldwell.attmail.com (Henson, Eric) |
Hi all,
Would anyone have John Harmons (Rocketeer) number laying around?
Thanks in advance,
Eric
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Latest on the (R V-6 A) project in Las Vegas |
Hello Harold...
I am in the process of assembling the parts for a belt drive psru for a V8
engine of 550 cubic inches... working with industrial suppliers here in the
Saginaw, Mi area... I am lucky in that this is auto country with lots of tool
and die shops, machining, and parts available... which belt size, pitch, and
manufacturer is Jess using on that psru and what do they feel is the upper
limit of torque and horsepower it will handle? do you know which bearings,
etc. ? I have made these basic decisions, but would like to compare to a
unit which is proven, even if it is for lower power levels... My power levels
will be higher, so I decided to design and build the psru on my own...
besides, this is EXPERIMENTAL, right?
I am also curious about your belt tensioner.... the industrial belt folks I
am getting advice from are against anything that puts additional flexure into
the belt, such as an idler wheel, etc...
Cheers ... Denny
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | billphil(at)ix.netcom.com (William Phillips ) |
| Subject: | R V-6 A project Horsepower Calcuations |
Concerning our Chevy Vortec (R V-6 A) project, I have had
quite a few requests to derive the formula for horsepower using rpm and
torque. We get many questions about the values of horsepower and
torque at the en
gine drive shaft and the propeller drive shaft. Since this request
has been made by more than a half dozen people I will include it here
if anyone is interested.
Why is Horsepower = (rpm x torque)/5252 where rpm is in inverse
seconds and torque is in ft-lb?
Derivation:
torque is:
T = F R (ft-lb) (1)
a force "F" acting perpendicularly to an arm of length "R".
If the arm is allowed to rotate in a circle, with the force remaining
perpendicular at the end of the arm, the endpoint circumscribes an arc
of length
L = 2 pi R (ft)
(2)
where pi = 3.14. If the arm is allowed to continuously rotate, the
total distance traveled by a rotating arm in one minute is:
S = rpm * 2 pi R (ft/s) (3)
Power is the rate at which work is being done and work alone is force
times distance, i.e. Work = F * S. Solving for "F" from equation
(1),
F = T/R (lb)
(4)
Then power "P" is the product of "S" and "L". From equations (2) and
(3),
P = S L
= rpm * 2pi * R * T/R (ft-lb/s)
The Rs cancel leaving,
P = rpm * 2pi * T (5)
One horsepower is 550 ft-lb/s or 33,000 ft-lb/min. Converting equation
(5) to units of hp, yields:
P = rpm * 2pi * T/33,000
= (rpm * T /5252 ) hp
(6)
It may be interesting to note that at constant power, if the rpm
goes down, the torque goes up. On our PSRU the belt reduces rpm by
1.43. This increases the torque at the propeller by 1.43 so the
product of rpm and T remains constant. From Dyno runs on the Chevy
Vortec V-6 were producing 280 ft-lb of torque at 3700 rpm. This
converts to 400 ft-lb of torque at the prop with 2590 rpm. Youll
notice the products are the same (within ro
unding error). When you calculate power from equation (6), the result
is:
P = 2590 * 400 / 5252 = 197 hp at the prop.
or
P= 3700 * 280 /5252 = 197 hp at the engine drive shaft.
Of course all this makes sense and is equivalent to shifting down
into a lower gear in your automobile. If you want a lot of torque to
climb a hill, you shift down to granny gear. If you want to go fast,
you use high gear but you cant climb real well. The horsepower
however, remains the same.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rbusick(at)nmsu.edu (Robert Busick) |
| Subject: | Re: Tool Kits and Delivery Times |
I've often wondered why RV tail starter tool kits did not have all
the necessary tools to complete the empannage. I intially bought the full
tool kit, and immediately found out I needed about $300 more in tools. And
since then I have added at least another $1500-2000 in tools, and I don't
even have a pneumatic squeezer.
IMHO nothing beats the right tool. When this happens to me, I don't
hesitate to order the tool, but then I'm only 500 miles from Avery.
While on the subject how come it takes Avery and Cleveland about 2
days to get stuff to me and Vans takes 3-4 weeks (for things like hinges,
hardware and other stuff out of the catalog)? I know it is against RV-List
protocol to criticize Vans, but I never order anything from Vans that I can
get from Avery or Cleveland.
Grumble, grumble. Nobody better mess with me this
morning :-(
Bob Busick
RV-6
rbusick(at)nmsu.edu
>I'm in a peevish mood this morning.
>
>Last night I wanted to do a bit more work on my HS. However, almost
>immediately I got stumped. The problem is that the holes in the
>flanges on the HS-603s need to be dimpled. I have the Avery dimpling
>tool, but no hand squeezer or dimpler. Looks like I'm stuck with
>either making a hand dimpling tool, or buying one from the US with
>consequent high freight costs :-(
>
>What annoys me about this is that I bought Avery's RV Tail Kit Starter
>Tool Kit, and here I am working on just the second component and don't
>have the right tool. I guess that Van's has changed the construction
>method at some point. Carefully watching the Orndorff video I see that
>George doesn't dimple the HS-603 at all; instead he countersinks the
>skin (surely it's too thin??). Anyway, could someone near Avery's get
>on to them and ask them to include a dimpling tool in their kits from
>now on? As a service to new builders, Van's might let the toolkit
>manufacturers know when they change the manufacturing technique so
>that a new tool is required.
>
>Grumble, grumble. Nobody better mess with me this morning :-(
>
>--
>--------------------------------------------------------------------
>frankv(at)pec.co.nz | "Knowledge=Power=Energy=Matter=Mass;
>Frank van der Hulst | A good bookshop is just a genteel
>Software Engineer | Black Hole that knows how to read".
>PEC(NZ) Ltd (Cardax), Marton | Terry Pratchett, "Guards! Guards!"
>http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/ |
>--------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ecole(at)ix.netcom.com (EDWARD COLE) |
| Subject: | Re: RST Audio Panel |
You wrote:
>
> This panel sounds interesting. How does on find out more. Like
company
> address, phone number, price, and other kinds of kits.
>
> Warren Gretz
> RV-6 N25WG
> Denver
>
>
Warren,
Try http://www.rst-engr.com/index.html
You can order a catalog or read an online catalog at this site.
I believe they are located in Grass Valley Ca.
Ed Cole RV6A #24430
ecole(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
Hi,
I've just bought my wood for the tailplane/wing jig, got it home to find
the local lumber yard had dressed the wood back to 100mm instead of the
specified 4 inch by 4 inch.
Australia is metric and I think they assumed I would not know the
difference :^(
The difference is about 1/8 inch less than the required 4 inches. I've
checked the tailplane sizes and it looks like I can get away with the
100mm. Will I have a problem when I get to the wings??
Also, the plans recommend a minimum horizontal beam width of 109 inches. I
have enough wood to go wider, is there any advantage in having a wider jig
or is 109 inches also the maximum width?
Thanks
Mike Parkinson
RV6 - working on HS rear spar
======================================================================
_/ | Mike Parkinson - NSMDA
_/ | E-Mail: m_parkinson(at)nsmd.aus.hp.com
_/_/_/ _/_/_/ | Phone : +61 (03) 9210 5653
_/ _/ _/ _/ | Fax : +61 (03) 9210 5646
_/ _/ _/_/_/ | Postal: 31-41 Joseph Street
_/ | Blackburn, VIC 3130
_/ | Australia
----------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: HS-603; hand dimpling tool now required |
>What annoys me about this is that I bought Avery's RV Tail Kit Starter
>Tool Kit, and here I am working on just the second component and don't
>have the right tool. I guess that Van's has changed the construction
>method at some point. Carefully watching the Orndorff video I see that
>George doesn't dimple the HS-603 at all; instead he countersinks the
>skin (surely it's too thin??). Anyway, could someone near Avery's get
>on to them and ask them to include a dimpling tool in their kits from
>now on? As a service to new builders, Van's might let the toolkit
>manufacturers know when they change the manufacturing technique so
>that a new tool is required.
Frank, What a bummer. I'm surprised Avery left a squeezer out. However,
you could build the VS and HS by using your machine countersink. The VS and
HS skins are .032", so machine countersinking is permissable. I prefer to
dimple whenever possible as I think it provides a more uniform surface,
might be a little faster, is stronger and all of the holes are self-aligning
due to the nesting of the dimples. I would highly recommend the pneumatic
squeezer as it is much faster than the hand squeezer. You shouldn't have
any trouble selling it after your done with your project.
Since freight costs are a majopr consideration for you, I would wpend the
next several days, looking to the future and seeing if there are other items
that you will need so you can order a bunch of stuff at the same time.
Then, while you are waiting, you could read the construction manual, over
and over. I found that every time I went through the manual something new
would stick and pieces of the puzzle would come togther. Going over the
plans and making notes on them to remind you of important things you have
discovered reading the manual will come in handy, later. You could also use
the time to catch up on "good will" at home, build a surplus, so to speak.
Bob (Yes, I'm back on the list) Skinner RV-6 flying, RV-6A gathering dust
in the shop
BSkinner(at)ltec.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | phone # for Racer Wholesale & Summit |
Several had asked me for the numbers of these companies.
On the electrical 'thread' we had, I had noted that I bought
a bulkhead connector for the starter wire. I said I bought it
at Racer Wholesale. It turns out I bought it from Summit Racing Equimpent
(not racer Wholesale).
The part from Summit is part number SUMG1431 and was $6.39 back in
1994. I no longer have the latest catalog. The last one I had no
longer showed a picture of this device but it is a quality part.
Summit Racing Equipment 216-630-0200
Racer Wholesale 1-800-886-RACE
Both have items that are useable in home built aircraft from
guages, AN fittings, exhaust wrap, fire suppression, seat belts, etc....
Herman Dierks, Dept. E54S, AWSD, Austin, Texas
mail: dierks(at)austin.ibm.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming parts |
I typically use as many parts from Superior as I can get.
Some of the parts from Superior are actually Lycoming parts that
Superior just distributes. Most of Superior parts are their own
PMA parts. Some come from the same suppliers that Lyc. uses.
I did use Lyc rod bolts and oil pump however. I bought those through
Brown in SanAntonio. However I saw that Brown had a going out of business
auction a few months back. To bad, they had good prices on Lyc parts.
Just check Trade-a-Plane. You should be able to get 25 to 30% off of
list from most places that want to sell a lot of parts.
One other place to try is VanBortel in Dallas. They sell engines for
$300 over whosale. They also sell Lyc parts at a pretty good discount.
> I'm needing a good source for Lycoming parts. (Meaning best price)
> We are in the process of overhauling my 0-320-D2A. I found a retired
> Sargeant Major who was chief mach. on Marine One to help me on this one. The
> Crankshaft passed so we are on our way. Also I'm going to buy new jugs and
> hope I can find them less than the $1200 ea. advertised. Any help pleased?
> David Cahoon - Arkansas - working on RV-4 canopy and my engine.
> David Cahoon
> Jonesboro, Arkansas
> dcahoon(at)intellinet.com
>
--------------------------------------------------------
*NOTICE for internet mail*: Any ideas or thoughts expressed here are my
own and are independent of my employer.
Herman Dierks, Dept. E54S, AWSD, Austin, Texas
mail: dierks(at)austin.ibm.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Chandler" <mauser(at)Claris.COM> |
> I receive a magazine named Professional Pilot. They often do
> reader surveys on different topics. One such topic is avionics.
> The readers who use their radios almost every day are probably a
> pretty good unbiased source of info. In the survey published in the
> Aug 94 issue they asked user to rate avionics reliability.
This sounds like a very interesting survey, how about entering the complete
results?
I've never heard of some of the companies mentioned. Northstar? Universal
Nav? How are their prices? Considering the name Professional Pilot, are
these radios for heavy iron only? (Talk about big bucks, I can imagine a Com
costing more than a Lycoming....)
--
"Wait a minute, you expect us innocent children to climb up dangerous
scaffolding and paint naked people all over a church? We'll do it!!"
-- Yakko Warner, Animaniacs
"Yeah, I've got ADD, you wanna make something of.... oooh, cool. Look!"
________________________________________________________________________________
Has any one changed their gross wt on the certification after the FAA
inspector has done his thing? I put down the 1600 as gross wt., thought
that it was the only thing we could do. I now see that some have put down
heavier. If I put two people @175 #, full fuel, and 75 # of baggage, it is
over the 1600 (1682#). The cg stays within normal limits (not acro) down to
5 gals (and slightly less, but I don't want to push that boundary too far).
I may never need it unless my wife goes with me for an RON, and her
cosmetics weighs in pretty close to the 75# :-) and I KNOW that there will
be no acro when she's in there.
Just wondering how much hassle it is to change it, other than changing the
data plate.
Anyone with this experience?
John D
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)crl.com> |
| Subject: | Re: (chatter) It's a small world after all... |
On Mon, 20 May 1996 walsh(at)cpeedy.enet.dec.com wrote:
> I went to a local aviation flea market in Northampton,N.H. Saturday.
> As I was wandering through the planes with my 2 year old daughter, I came
> across an RV-6A. While I was chatting with the owner, he promptly picked
> up my daughter and plunked her down in the right seat of the 6a where she
> began playing fighter pilot...
That reminds me of just a few weeks ago. My 7 year old son sat in an
RV-6 for the first time. He had the cutest little RV grin on his face.
As we walked away, all my son could say was, "When is OURS gonna be done,
Dad?"
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Radios (fwd) |
Van's may sell just the trays and they have good prices for radios.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rust47rg(at)one.net |
| Subject: | Re: Radios (fwd) |
> One thing to consider on avionics is the warrenty period.
> Many are based on the date of purchase.
>
Another thing to consider is can you get them repaired in the field. In the
past if a Terra broke you had to send it back to the factory, Kings can be
fixed in the field by any decent avionics shop. And radios always break
when you are in the middle of nowhere......things to consider. And another
thing for you electronic types that are lurking out there. What and when
are the changes in radio and transponder design that will force us to
upgrade to new equipment.
I know the 135 guys have to change to mode s as their mode c's break. So
what do the FED's have in store for us. I'd be unhappy if I popped for a
new mode c
and had to turn around and replace it in a couple of years.
Regards:
Rusty Gossard
N47RG RV-4 Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
The seat ribs attach to F-604 on DWG 31 far right view. It is a partial view
so it may be difficult to visualize it as the 3rd angle projection of the
view to its immediate left.
Hope this helps.
-N1GV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | frankv(at)pec.co.nz |
| Subject: | Re: HS-603; hand dimpling tool now required |
>> Last night I wanted to do a bit more work on my HS. However, almost
>> immediately I got stumped. The problem is that the holes in the
>> flanges on the HS-603s need to be dimpled. I have the Avery dimpling
>> tool, but no hand squeezer or dimpler. Looks like I'm stuck with
>> either making a hand dimpling tool, or buying one from the US with
>> consequent high freight costs :-(
>HOWEVER: My advice is to bite the bullet and get an Avery or Tatco
>hand squeezer. You are going to need it anyway (next to my drill
>motor, it's probably the most well-used tool in my shop).
Thanks to all for the advice... I am now approachable again :-)
I always knew that I'd need a hand squeezer some time (I think one of
the annoying aspects was that I'd cogitated for a while over ordering
one with this tool kit, then decided I wouldn't need it just yet). I
had planned to postpone purchasing it until one of:
a) I've paid Visa for the emp kit & this lot of tools.
b) I get my wing kit. The way international freight pricing works,
I'd only need to pay the tools freight from Avery's to Van's. c)
August. I know someone who's going to Oshkosh.
d) Anyone I know is going to Wicks Airfield, Texas.
Anyway, to decide whether to bite the bullet or go with plan B (make a
squeezer out of vice grips) I need to know: 1. Can I do these HS603
dimples with a vice-grip dimpler?
2. I guess that a vice-grip dimpler will be useful in the future too.
Am I right?
3. Are there any other dimples in the emp which I can't do with either
the C-frame tool or vice-grip dimpler?
--
--------------------------------------------------------------------
frankv(at)pec.co.nz | "Knowledge=Power=Energy=Matter=Mass;
Frank van der Hulst | A good bookshop is just a genteel
Software Engineer | Black Hole that knows how to read".
PEC(NZ) Ltd (Cardax), Marton | Terry Pratchett, "Guards! Guards!"
http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/ |
--------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | marc(at)ionet.net (marc) |
| Subject: | Still looking for an RV-4 |
I asked previously about an already built RV-4 a few weeks ago, but I
negleted to include my return E-mail address. So I am reposting to see if
thier are any RV4s for sale out here in cyberspace. If you kow of any please
E-mail me direct at (marc(at)ionet.net)
If anybody knows of anyone that would be willing to take me for a ride or
better yet, get some dual time in an RV-4. That information would be very
helpfull. I am located in Ocklahoma city.
Again thanks for all the help and thanks to those who responded to this
request last time.
__________________________________________________________
**********************************************************\
PGP 2.6.2 *82 50 FF 81 45 E8 75 FA* Marc Christensen FLY****\
Fingerprint*11 C2 12 9E A0 F9 31 1F* LT USNR NAVY****/
**********************************************************/
----my opinions are independent of the US Navy
________________________________________________________________________________
Would anyone have John Harmons (Rocketeer) number laying around?
Contact John @805-836-1028. I've built a few of these things, so if you have
any questions, let me know.
Good luck!
rgds
Mark
mlfred(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PatK(at)gnn.com (Patrick Kelley) |
| Subject: | Re: Tool Kits and Delivery Times |
Wow! I already had a drill press and table saw, so I sat down with the Avery
and Cleaveland catalogs and ordered all the tools I needed. I relied heavily
on Avery's 'make your own tool kit' deal and kept my cost under $2,000,
including the Sears air compressor I bought. Of course, many handy tools I
do without. I hand squeeze rivets rather than buy a pneumatic press or
squeezer; I used a band saw at work to do my spar strip tapers. Not
criticizing, because I wish I could afford to get all the super tools (what I
would give for an English Wheel), but it is perfectly possible to build an RV
using the minimum list of tools that Van recommends. On the other hand, as
Tim Taylor says, ....
PatK - RV-6A - Spars built (wished I had a Binford 2000 riveter for that!)
>From: nmsu.edu!rbusick(at)matronics.com (Robert Busick)
>Sender: owner-rv-list(at)matronics.com
>To: rv-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Tool Kits and Delivery Times
>
> I've often wondered why RV tail starter tool kits did not have all
>the necessary tools to complete the empannage. I intially bought the full
>tool kit, and immediately found out I needed about $300 more in tools. And
>since then I have added at least another $1500-2000 in tools, and I don't
>even have a pneumatic squeezer.
>
> IMHO nothing beats the right tool. When this happens to me, I don't
>hesitate to order the tool, but then I'm only 500 miles from Avery.
PatK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PatK(at)gnn.com (Patrick Kelley) |
| Subject: | Re: Tailplane Jig |
I'm not sure about metric lumber sizes, but a 4x4 is usually 3 1/2 x 3 1/2.
I forget the reason for this; I just remember that dimensional lumber isn't.
Anyway, I had no problem with the 3 1/2 inch width - it's more than enough to
attach the brackets for jigging the HS. Yes, the rear spar is wider than the
jig; this is normal and/or Ok.
PatK - RV-6A - Wing Spar on the jig and attaching ribs.
>I've just bought my wood for the tailplane/wing jig, got it home to find
>the local lumber yard had dressed the wood back to 100mm instead of the
>specified 4 inch by 4 inch.
>
>Australia is metric and I think they assumed I would not know the
>difference :^(
>
>The difference is about 1/8 inch less than the required 4 inches. I've
>checked the tailplane sizes and it looks like I can get away with the
>100mm. Will I have a problem when I get to the wings??
>
>Also, the plans recommend a minimum horizontal beam width of 109 inches. I
>have enough wood to go wider, is there any advantage in having a wider jig
>or is 109 inches also the maximum width?
>
>Thanks
>Mike Parkinson
>RV6 - working on HS rear spar
>======================================================================
> _/ | Mike Parkinson - NSMDA
> _/ | E-Mail: m_parkinson(at)nsmd.aus.hp.com
> _/_/_/ _/_/_/ | Phone : +61 (03) 9210 5653
> _/ _/ _/ _/ | Fax : +61 (03) 9210 5646
> _/ _/ _/_/_/ | Postal: 31-41 Joseph Street
> _/ | Blackburn, VIC 3130
> _/ | Australia
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
PatK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | HowardRV(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Radios (fwd) |
I have gotten some quotes from Van's and they are by far the best I have
seen. They will sell the stuff, ship you the trays and wires and then when
you need the radios to "FLY" the ship them and your warranty starts from the
shipping date.
Howard Kidwell
howardrv(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cn755(at)freenet.carleton.ca (Catherine Lamport) |
| Subject: | Aileron Trim Wiring |
I am in the process of wiring the wings of my 6A and was
wondering if anyone has a suggestion for routing the wire for the
electric aileron trim. I am concerned specifically with the wing-
aileron hinge area. How did you run the wire to allow for full
aileron travel, minimum flexing, chafing, etc. BTW, just tested
both tanks with fuel and no leaks!! I used a method described
here on the list in that all parts are clecoed together with pro
seal, allowed to cure, then installed rivets later.
Thanks in advance.
Dale Lamport
Nepean, Ontario
cn755(at)freenet.carleton.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS-603; hand dimpling tool now required |
Frank,
I have built two RV-4's and do not own a dimpling tool. I dimple all the
skins with a simple setup. I use a small piece of oak block to mount a male
die which I lay on my work bench. I use a clean piece of carpet which has
a hole cut out to accept the block. I use a 1/2" or so dia. piece of dowel
about 8" long with a #13 hole drilled in the end to accept the female dimple.
Put the skin on the male dimple on the workbench, hold the dowel over it as
straight as possible and tap with an 8oz. ballpeen hammer. Try it on a
piece of scrap first, it works great for me. Hope this helps, keep on
building! Believe it or not at some point you shoot your last rivet! :)
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Spars - thanks |
Don,
Not only the new guys but us old guys read these things too. This kind of
info really helps us as we think about the next project or advise someone
on theirs. Thanks.
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Yablon <brian(at)lanart.com> |
| Subject: | Compressor water condensor... |
Just thought I'd give a public thank-you to Gary Zilik for his
ingenuity in devising an air-line dryer that really works.
Over the winter, I used my air tools all the time without any
problems. But as soon as the humidity started climbing, I began to
get water spraying out the back of my die grinder. I have a
Campbell-Hausfeld filter/separator at the output of my compressor, and
even though I was getting water all over my shirt, not a drop was to
be found in the separator.
Last week, after an extended session with the grinder (which must have
liberated a quarter cup of water), I had to leave the shop for
something, and didn't make it back till the next day. This was plenty
of time for the guts of my die-grinder to sieze.
I started looking through the archives for a solution. I recalled
several ideas about PVC-based dryers, but rejected them outright,
since I know an auto mechanic who needed stitches for facial
lacerations caused by shrapnel when his homebrew PVC air plumbing
system blew. I found Gary's copper-based system, and cobbled one
together in about 2 hours. Here's my implementation:
At Home Depot, I bought 50' of 3/8" copper refrigeration tubing, along
with a couple of 1/4" NPT-to-tubing compression fittings ($25). Using
a paint can as a form, I made a tight coil of the tubing. I held the
coil together by soldering some scrap 12-gauge copper wire to the coil
at the 3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock positions. Using the remaining wire
ends, I hung the coil in the middle of a 5-gal drywall bucket. I
drilled holes at the top and bottom of the bucket for the ends of the
coil to exit, and sealed them with silicone caulk. A 3' length of air
hose connects the top of the coil to my compressor. I transplanted
the separator/filter and air chuck to the bottom of the coil.
To operate, I fill the bucket with cold water, toss in a few of those
reuseable blue cooler ice packs, and away I go. Water condenses out
of the air, flows downhill, and collects in the separator. My tools
now run completely dry. The only caveat is I have to remember to
drain the air filter OFTEN. This gizmo works so effectively that it
can fill the bowl in the separator in no time.
Brian Yablon (brian(at)lanart.com)
RV-6A #24751
HS skeleton in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil> (Tom Craig-Stearman) |
I spent the weekend installing rear seat footwells in my RV-4. I used Paul
McReynold's drawings in the April RVator. It took me three evenings and a
Saturday morning to retrofit them to my finished floorboards, and they look
great! Very comfortable. I heartily recommend them. Besides, it was nice
to be working in aluminum again after many weeks of electrical stuff.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil> (Tom Craig-Stearman) |
This must be the engine I saw at Sun 'n' Fun. It looks nice. However, I
prefer the approach taken by Formula Power. I spent a great deal of time
talking with their engineers, and came to the conclusion that Formula Power
is putting more serious effort into failure-tolerant and fail-safe design.
I have not yet heard a final price, but I think the Formula Power
firewall-forward package will be somewhat less expensive than NSI's.
Neither system will be cheaper than a Lycoming of the same horsepower, but
I think the value received for the price is greater.
I am planning to install Formula Power's first RV-4 firewall-forward
package, and will let you know how it goes.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil
RV-4 elbows-deep in the electrical system
-------------
Original Text
From: aol.com!MikeT(at)matronics.com, on 5/20/96 1:05 PM:
I ran into a guy today at a local flyin that has his RV-6 almost ready to
fly. It is presently in the NSI hanger having a 160hp Suburu installed. As
this is within 15 minutes of me I'll check on it soon and pass on any info
if
the "list" is interested. It sounds like NSI is using his airplane as a
'prototype' for their engine conversion so they may plan a firewall fwd kit
for the RV (?).
Mike Talley
RV-6 putting the tips on the tail feathers and the new owner of a C-140 to
fly while I build
miket(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | billphil(at)ix.netcom.com (William Phillips ) |
| Subject: | Re: Sourcing matterials |
The guys are pretty proprietary about the suppliers because they build
and sell the PSRU. You can call them directly if you like. Tom is at
702-645-6093.
Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis/Michael Kosta <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
| Subject: | Re: HS-603; hand dimpling tool now required |
>>
>Anyway, to decide whether to bite the bullet or go with plan B (make a
>squeezer out of vice grips) I need to know: 1. Can I do these HS603
>dimples with a vice-grip dimpler?
>
>2. I guess that a vice-grip dimpler will be useful in the future too.
>Am I right?
>
>3. Are there any other dimples in the emp which I can't do with either
>the C-frame tool or vice-grip dimpler?
>
>
MAN, I think hand squeezer is on the "must have" list. I agree that the
dimple holes are "cleaner" and definitly easier. The squeezer comes in very
handy for dimpling and setting rivets. The vice-grip squeezers are ok but
not as handy. They don't have the reach of the jaws of the hand squeezer.
Also consider the poprivet type dimpler that uses two seperate dies and a
nail through the center that you pull with the poprivet tool as there are
some holes you can't seem to get ANYTHING else on. They work for poprivets
and AN driven rivets. Seen in an Aircraft Spruce catalog near you.
Michael Kosta
mikel(at)dimensional.com
RV-4 final assembly details (of which there are many)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ecole(at)ix.netcom.com (EDWARD COLE) |
You wrote:
>
>Folks, If ayone out there is wondering whether to build their own or
buy
>Phlogiston spars, Here's some #'s that might you help make up your
mind.
>
>First I did the Left Spar which took a total of 56 hrs. I used the
Harbor
>freight Press
>to set the rivets and much of this 56 hrs was spent making the
necessary mods to
>the press (approx 8hrs). I used the "A" frame press...if anyone wants
my
>mods let me
>know and I will send them. As the first is always the hardest I felt
confident
>that I could do the right spar in 30 hrs.
>
>Well, Just got finished with the right spar and it took 26 hrs! Both
spars
>came out
>great IMHO. The press does an outstanding job of setting the rivets.
>
>Total time was 82 hrs for both (if I had it to do again I could do the
whole
>job in
>less than 50 hrs.....isn't that the way it goes....). This includes
>everything from
>receipt,prep,prime,rivet etc.etc.
>
>Money invested.....Horbor Freight 12 ton "A" frame press $89 (on Sale)
99 if
>not.
>Approx $20 in 1/2 inch steel plate and miscellaneous hardware to
modify it.
>
>I am sure these aren't as pretty as the Phlog. spars (no Anodizing)
but I would
>bet they are as strong.
>
>Anyways...food for thought. I thought about it for a long time then
finally
>decided (with some help from my bank account) to go for it. I'm glad I
did.
>And...I still have a press that will come in handy (already has) for
other non
>RV related stuff.
>
>P.S. you can see from the above #'s that I am not a particularly fast
>builder. I am sure
>that some of you could do it much quicker than I.
>
>Hope this helps somebody.......don
>
>Don Nowakowski (RV-6 Wings...Spars done)
>nowakod(at)worldnet.att.net
>
Just food for thought.....
Everything usually boils down to time vs. money. But if your labor is
worth $10/hr, 89 hrs. pretty much covers the cost of the $825
Plogistron Spar. I know it's more fun to build and $800 bucks could
cover other items, but for me, 90 hrs equates to 8-9 weeks in the shop
with my limited time.
Ed Cole RV6A 24430
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WStucklen(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: (chatter) It's a small world after all... |
>On Mon, 20 May 1996 walsh(at)cpeedy.enet.dec.com wrote:
>
>> I went to a local aviation flea market in Northampton,N.H. Saturday.
>> As I was wandering through the planes with my 2 year old daughter, I came
>> across an RV-6A. While I was chatting with the owner, he promptly picked
>> up my daughter and plunked her down in the right seat of the 6a where she
>> began playing fighter pilot...
>
>That reminds me of just a few weeks ago. My 7 year old son sat in an
>RV-6 for the first time. He had the cutest little RV grin on his face.
>As we walked away, all my son could say was, "When is OURS gonna be done,
>Dad?"
>
>Best Regards,
>Dave Barnhart
>rv-6 sn 23744
>fuselage in jig
>
>
If the aviation "seed" is planted at a young age, who knows what it will
grow up to be.....
Glad I could help....
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SLT3D(at)cc.usu.edu |
| Subject: | To: rv-list(at)matronics.com |
can someone send me instructions as to how I go about unsubscribing
to the RV list?
Thanks in advance,
SLT#D(at)cc.usu.edu
Stephen Swensen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Elon Ormsby" <Elon.Ormsby(at)quickmail.llnl.gov> |
REGARDING Suburu RV-6
Tom Craig you state... "but I think the Formula Power firewall-forward package
will be somewhat less expensive than NSI's. Neither system will be cheaper
than a Lycoming of the same horsepower, but I think the value received for the
price is greater.
---------------------------------
Tom, I was wondering why you think the "value" is so much greater than a
certified motor since It costs about the same for the same horsepower. Could
you share some stats about the Suburu?
Fuel effeciency: What its specific fuel consumption (Lbs/HP/hour)?
Durability (TBO): How many hours and costs to rebuild?
Weight:
-Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: HS-603; hand dimpling tool now required |
>What annoys me about this is that I bought Avery's RV Tail Kit Starter
>Tool Kit, and here I am working on just the second component and don't
>have the right tool.
Did you get a copy of the rv-list FAQ when you signed up for this
list? Doug Bloomberg's "Tools Needed" list, included therein, is
invaluable -- if you'd read that you wouldn't be having this problem!
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n21pe(at)ix.netcom.com (Peter B. Mortensen) |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim Wiring |
You wrote:
> BTW, just tested both tanks with fuel and no leaks!!
> I used a method described
> here on the list in that all parts are clecoed together with pro
> seal, allowed to cure, then installed rivets later.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>Dale Lamport
>Nepean, Ontario
>cn755(at)freenet.carleton.ca
>
Hi, I am well on the way with my fuselage on my RV-4 and the wings and
empeage are done. However, the tanks are not riveted yet. I have a
phobia about doing them since I have heard it is so messy and
difficult. Anyway, I am relatively new to the list and I have never
heard of the method of letting the proseal cure first with clecos and
then riveting later. Any discussion of this method must have been
before my subscription to the list. Actually, I have had the same idea
myself and I talked to some local EAA RVators about it and they all
advised against it. Please give me a quick summary of pros and cons on
this method. It seems to me that if the tanks can be made strong
enough by this method then it is clearly the best way to go!
Thanks Peter.
___________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Herman Dierks <dierks(at)austin.ibm.com> |
Does anyone get Aviation Consumer? They use to do avionics surveys.
I would be a little concerned that the "Professional Pilot" may be
biased to high dollar avionics and probably have someone else doing
all the repair. On the positive side, they probably use the equipment
more than us week-end flyers do.
It is true that Narco pulled back all the field repair and it is now
mainly return to factory repair, except for a few big repair stations
in the field.
King/Bendix is field repairable and supported by most Avionics shops.
Herman.
>
>
> > I like the Terra line, as they are so small, and they have the intercom. capacity.
> >however the King/Bendix line are less expensive.
>
> I receive a magazine named Professional Pilot. They often do reader
> surveys on different topics. One such topic is avionics. The readers who
> use their radios almost every day are probably a pretty good unbiased
> source of info. In the survey published in the Aug 94 issue they asked
> user to rate avionics reliability.
>
> Out of 18 companies, Terra was rated 17 with a 6.81 out of 10.
> Bendix//King was rated 8 with a 8.55 out of 10. Top spot went to
> Northstar, last to Canadian Marconi. Narco was 16th.
>
> For easy to read manuals Terra was 16th. Bendix/King 2nd. Narco 15th.
>
> They also rated Mfgr glitch response, loaner availability, AOG service and
> tech reps. In the overall scoreUniversal Nav was #1. Bendix/King #4.
> Narco #16. Terra last.
>
> I fly for a living and I would feel comfortable about other pilots
> commenting on their equipment. I have yet to decide what to put in
> my RV-4, but I know what it won't be.
>
> Mike Hiscock
> shiscock(at)fox.nstn.ca
Herman Dierks, Dept. E54S, AWSD, Austin, Texas
mail: dierks(at)austin.ibm.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | walsh(at)cpeedy.ENET.dec.com |
| Subject: | alternative engines.. |
I think that it's great that people are experimenting with engine
alternatives. I am convinced that sooner or later a practical alternative
to the Lycoming will be developed. I very much admire those who are
leading the way.
However, I have to take a different view of those who are selling "kits"
for products they have not yet even tried! I am baffled by people who
can go to Osh with a "Firewall Forward kit" bolted to a sheet of plywood
and start talking about pricing.
If somebody is going to be the first RV to fly a particular engine,that
engine should be installed for FREE and the pilot should be paid to be a
test pilot. Otherwise, let them buy their own RV to test with.
Harumph....
John ( in stir the pot mode )
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | frankv(at)pec.co.nz |
| Subject: | Re: Tool Kits and Delivery Times |
>Not criticizing, because I
>wish I could afford to get all the super tools (what I would give
>for an English Wheel), but it is perfectly possible to build an RV
>using the minimum list of tools that Van recommends. On the other
>hand, as Tim Taylor says, ....
Hmmmm... Tim Taylor building a plane. Frightening thought.
>PatK - RV-6A - Spars built (wished I had a Binford 2000 riveter for
>that!)
With Tim's turbo improvement, I could see the spar getting rivetted to
the bucking bar. :-)
--
--------------------------------------------------------------------
frankv(at)pec.co.nz | "Knowledge=Power=Energy=Matter=Mass;
Frank van der Hulst | A good bookshop is just a genteel
Software Engineer | Black Hole that knows how to read".
PEC(NZ) Ltd (Cardax), Marton | Terry Pratchett, "Guards! Guards!"
http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/ |
--------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas N. Martin" <103212.65(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | one year of flight |
First flight may 25, 1995. I cannot believe that it has been a year already.
When the plane broke free of ground on that first flight was one of my proudest
moments. I was not the pilot on that first flight and I have never regretted it.
I had an engine failure at 60hrs and I was able to land it safely. If that
engine failure had happened during my first flight when I was not familiar with
the plane, I WOULD NOT HAVE SURVIVED!!! I would urge new builders to get
exprienced help on all new airplanes. I had 300 tail wheel hours previous to the
RV-4 but this airplane is in a different catagorey and should be regarded as
such. Lack of skill based on experience is nothing to be ashamed of; but not
addmitting it sure is.
I added footwells to my RV-4 in January and it has been well worth the effort.
It is a simple afternoon project and you do not even have to change the hole
pattern of the floor boards. I would put this on the must do list for RV-4
owners.
Tom Martin
RV-4 the RaVen, 125 hours and climbing,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
| Subject: | Vice grip dimpler |
>b) I get my wing kit. The way international freight pricing works,
> I'd only need to pay the tools freight from Avery's to Van's. c)
>August. I know someone who's going to Oshkosh.
>d) Anyone I know is going to Wicks Airfield, Texas.
>
>Anyway, to decide whether to bite the bullet or go with plan B (make a
>squeezer out of vice grips) I need to know: 1. Can I do these HS603
>dimples with a vice-grip dimpler?
>
>2. I guess that a vice-grip dimpler will be useful in the future too.
>Am I right?
>
>3. Are there any other dimples in the emp which I can't do with either
>the C-frame tool or vice-grip dimpler?
>
The vice-grip dimpler is useful for those few areas that are very difficult
to reach any other way, but it doesn't make very good dimples and is much
harder to use than a squeezer. You could probably make do with it, but you
wouldn't like it much.
Avery always has a booth at Oshkosh, and brings a lot of tools with them to
sell, including hand squeezers. I'm not up on international freight rates,
but might it be less expensive to have a squeezer sent parcel post? They
only weigh a couple of pounds.
I've posted a list of tools for building the empennage sorted by when I
think they are needed on my web page. Hope this helps.
Good luck
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Curt Reimer <Curt_Reimer(at)MBnet.MB.CA> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailplane Jig |
On Tue, 21 May 1996, Patrick Kelley wrote:
> I'm not sure about metric lumber sizes, but a 4x4 is usually 3 1/2 x 3 1/2.
> I forget the reason for this; I just remember that dimensional lumber isn't.
> Anyway, I had no problem with the 3 1/2 inch width - it's more than enough to
> attach the brackets for jigging the HS. Yes, the rear spar is wider than the
> jig; this is normal and/or Ok.
I think the 4 x 4 inch spec is for rough cut, unmilled lumber. After
milling it is 3.5 x 3.5 inches or 89 x 89 mm.
So, actually, your 100 mm lumber is BIGGER than required, not smaller.
Curt Reimer
Canada
Officially metric yet unofficially English,
so we have to know BOTH systems! And, of course,
own 2 sets of tools!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tailplane Jig |
>
>I've just bought my wood for the tailplane/wing jig, got it home to find
>the local lumber yard had dressed the wood back to 100mm instead of the
>specified 4 inch by 4 inch.
>
>Australia is metric and I think they assumed I would not know the
>difference :^(
>
>The difference is about 1/8 inch less than the required 4 inches. I've
>checked the tailplane sizes and it looks like I can get away with the
>100mm. Will I have a problem when I get to the wings??
>
>Also, the plans recommend a minimum horizontal beam width of 109 inches. I
>have enough wood to go wider, is there any advantage in having a wider jig
>or is 109 inches also the maximum width?
>
Mike,
Your '4 X 4's at 3 7/8 are even thicker than our U.S. spec versions. Our
U.S. 4 inch dimensional lumber is finished to about 3 1/2 inch. A 4 X 4 is
really a 3 1/2 X 3 1/2. We're not metric (a shame) and I think they assume
we won't notice the difference either.
Don't worry - the finished thickness of your nominally 4 X 4 lumber is not
significant and won't affect its utility for empennage or wing jigging. The
horizontal beam width dimension is not critical, but is intended to give you
space between your uprights for the wing. Eventually the very outboard tip
of the wing spar will rest on a horizontal arm coming off of one of the
vertical posts, and the portion of the spar that is inboard of the wing skin
will rest on an similar arm coming off of the other vertical post. The
skinned part of the wing will be between the verticals. The horizontal
crossbeam is not used for wing jigging, and is removed when you finish with
the empennage.
For the wing, 109 inches isn't necessarily a maximum jig width, but is
probably ideal. 105 inches is a minimum width, and depending on what you do
for horizontal arms, even that could cause some difficulty. You need at
least 105 inches between the inboard face of the horizontal arms, a little
more is better. If you make the jig too much wider than 109 inches, the
vertical post supporting the inboard part of the main spar will be far
enough from the inboard rib to allow the spar to flex making it harder to
get exacty horizontal and straight. That wouldn't be insurmountable, you
could support the assembly from below, but it would add unnecessary
difficulty. Think ahead about what you will use for horizontal arms, add
their thicknesses to the 105 inch minimum, add a little bit for clearance,
and you get pretty close to the 109 inches. It isn't critical.
By the way, U.S. 2 X 4 lumber is really only 1 1/2 inches by 3 1/2 inches.
Have fun,
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann
________________________________________________________________________________
I am about to order an Rv-8 empenage. What would you guys recommend for a
workbench size as well as other electrical tools that is a must?
Thanks
Tony Moradian
funtfly(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Boris Robinson <smbr(at)inetw.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 footwells |
>I spent the weekend installing rear seat footwells in my RV-4.
Tom, did you have any problems, or tips. I'll be doing the same in a few
months.
Boris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Elon Ormsby" <Elon.Ormsby(at)quickmail.llnl.gov> |
REGARDING Belt Drive
Denny you say ...."My power levels will be higher, so I decided to design and
build the psru on my own...besides, this is EXPERIMENTAL, right?
------------------
All of the belt manufactures publish good engineering design data for their
belts (i.e., horspower, RPM, cycle life etc.). Stock Drive Products publishes
an excellent "Handbook of Timing Belts Chains and Friction Drives" (Phone
516/328-3300). There should be a local distributor in your area. Sometimes
these books are free. Gates and Boston Gear (the granddaddy of power
transmission) are also excellent sources.
A word of caution - you should NOT let it be known that you are designing for
an aviation application! Manufacturers have the right to restrict the
environment in which their products are used. Example, Goodyear (and others)
will stop you from using their products for aviation use (their tires
excepted). Listeners - ask our lawyernet friend about this one - please don't
come back with all kinds of individual anecdotal evidence. They are rare
occurrences and not enforceable. (boy, have I opened up a can of worms!!!)
Once you see the design manuals don't be discouraged! Industrial designs are
very, very conservative. Drive, timing-belts tend to get very BIG, very fast
as horsepower goes up. You may find that a belt capable of 300 horsepower for
200-300 hours life may be 12-18" wide and cost hundreds of dollars. For
reference a blower belt on a top fueler dragster transfers about 300-500 HP,
is 3" wide, cost about $100, and has a life of about one minute (repeat) one
minute!
Keep up the good work and please report on your progress.
-Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jcimino(at)jcimino.microserve.com (Jim Cimino) |
| Subject: | Re: Tailplane Jig |
Don't go any wider on the jig or you may have problems fitting the wing spar
in place when the time comes
>Item Subject: cc:Mail Text
>Hi,
>
>I've just bought my wood for the tailplane/wing jig, got it home to find
>the local lumber yard had dressed the wood back to 100mm instead of the
>specified 4 inch by 4 inch.
>
>Australia is metric and I think they assumed I would not know the
>difference :^(
>
>The difference is about 1/8 inch less than the required 4 inches. I've
>checked the tailplane sizes and it looks like I can get away with the
>100mm. Will I have a problem when I get to the wings??
>
>Also, the plans recommend a minimum horizontal beam width of 109 inches. I
>have enough wood to go wider, is there any advantage in having a wider jig
>or is 109 inches also the maximum width?
>
>Thanks
>Mike Parkinson
>RV6 - working on HS rear spar
>======================================================================
> _/ | Mike Parkinson - NSMDA
> _/ | E-Mail: m_parkinson(at)nsmd.aus.hp.com
> _/_/_/ _/_/_/ | Phone : +61 (03) 9210 5653
> _/ _/ _/ _/ | Fax : +61 (03) 9210 5646
> _/ _/ _/_/_/ | Postal: 31-41 Joseph Street
> _/ | Blackburn, VIC 3130
> _/ | Australia
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Elon Ormsby" <Elon.Ormsby(at)quickmail.llnl.gov> |
REGARDING Horsepower
Very nice explanation of HP, Bill. However, you forgot to tell where the 550
lbs-ft/sec (33,000 lbs-ft/min) came from (as if anybody cared).
When James Watt invented the steam engine he needed some way to quantify the
work that it could do. Obviously, yea olde work-horse was the best example
to use. However, Watt was a very conservative type. He observed the work
that a common horse could do and he doubled it to equal one steam engine
horsepower. Actually, a common horse can only do about15,000 lbs-ft/min.
-Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | cn755(at)freenet.carleton.ca (Catherine Lamport) |
| Subject: | Fuel Tank Construction |
This is in response to the query regarding the method of clecoing
the tank components together and curing, then riveting.
Pros:
1. Shorter work sessions - don't have to complete a rivet line
once started.
2. Not as messy. Only used about 10 pairs of surgical gloves
for both tanks.
3. Allowed for clean working conditions.
4. It worked for me - so far no leaks!!
Cons:
You be the judge. I wouldn't have done it this way if I had any
doubts.
As far as listening to the local EAA types -- filter out the
wheat from the chaff. Some of the local "experts" in my area
gleefully inform me that Van's kits are not any good and that
Lycoming engines are unreliable. I don't dare repeat my wife's
comment through the intercom as we flew home to CYSH after that
encounter.
Dale Lamport
cn755(at)freenet.carleton.ca
(Working on fuselage)
Nepean, Ontario, Canada
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: HS-603; hand dimpling tool now required |
>What annoys me about this is that I bought Avery's RV Tail Kit Starter
>Tool Kit, and here I am working on just the second component and don't
>have the right tool. I guess that Van's has changed the construction
>method at some point. Carefully watching the Orndorff video I see that
>George doesn't dimple the HS-603 at all; instead he countersinks the
>skin (surely it's too thin??).
I realize that your shipping costs are probably outrageous, but you'd better
get used to having to get "just one more thing". It is impossible to buy ALL
of your tools before hand.
As for the dimpling tool, you will need one, but not right now. It is
perfectly acceptable to machine countersink .032 skins for a -3 rivet. Just
be very careful to csink the minimum amount necessary. Dimpling the skins
may produce a stronger HS, but there are many RV's out there with machine
csunk skins, and I have never heard of a problem with it.
-- Ed Bundy
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark N. Hilsen" <71322.1267(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Velocity Crash Update: Electronic Ignition |
I have heard from one of the investigators into the crash of a Velocity that the
IO-360 (200 hp) engine failure on takeoff may, repeat may, have been related to
the failure of an uncertified, experimental only electronic ignition system.
**Although there is no definitive word the original findings do not rule out
ignition failure as a cause and so caution to all RV-List members is advised.**
Further investigation may reveal not only new data but a possible bias of the
source reporting to me.
The date of the crash, owner, tailnumber and all other data are not known to me,
and so this report is necessarily sketchy.
The IO-360 had only 80 hours on it when it failed on takeoff. Witnesses heard
and reported banging and popping before it failed completely. The engine had a
conventional PMA Slick 4200 series magneto in the right position and an
experimental electronic unit mounted on the left; the manufacturer and model
number of the electyronic ignition were not available to me as I write. The
electronic ignition had a vacuum advance line hooked up (to the manifold, I
believe, although it may have been hooked up elsewhere).
The electronic ignition retrieved from the crash was completely inoperable and
may have been destroyed in the crash. However, when the IO-360 engine was
mounted on a test stand it ran normally on the right magneto only.
A reasonable supposition is that the electronic magneto failed and fired
randomly or radically out of sequence.
If I hear further I will post. I would appreciate corrections, confirmations,
and amplifications as they become available.
Mark N. Hilsen 71322.1267(at)compuserve.com
RV-4 #2420 -- fuselage in jig
Kent, Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark N. Hilsen" <71322.1267(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Electronic Ignition |
In an e-mail that accompanies this I describe some preliminary concerns arising
from the post-crash testing of an IO-360 (200hp) that failed during takeoff of
a
Velocity. In particular, it is possible that the engine's experimental
ELECTRONIC IGNITION may have failed in such a way that it fired off schedule and
that such contrary firing caused the engine to cease running, even though there
was a functioning, stock PMA Slick 4200 series mag on the right side providing
a
normal sequenced spark.
Can anyone describe in technical terms both existing and planned electronic
ignition systems for the Lycoming O-320/360 line, including their failure modes
and backup systems, safeguards, and procedures?
For example, are the Hall-effect magnets well secured to the camshaft or
crankshaft in each design? Is there a logic that prevents the system from
firing if the magnets or a single magnet should slip or break off? Is the
ignition circuitry designed to be fault tolerant, fail-safe or fail-passive, and
if so, how? Are there self-test, self-monitoring features to reliably warn of
weak or failed systems before takeoff? What provisions are there for
automatically managing the system, other than a simple on/off switch? Are the
devices reliable with an MTBF approaching that of conventional magnetos?
My questions are far from exhaustive; I am certainly no electrical engineer. I
am interested in learning because the potential advantages of electronic
ignition merit the inquiry, but I cannot consider such a system if the risk is
greater than stock PMA'd Slicks.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | billphil(at)ix.netcom.com (William Phillips ) |
| Subject: | Re: alternative engines.. |
>engine should be installed for FREE and the pilot should be paid to be
a test pilot. Otherwise, let them buy their own RV to test with.
>Harumph....
>
>John ( in stir the pot mode )
>
Me too! Call Jesse and let him know I want $10K to test fly this Rv-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | billphil(at)ix.netcom.com (William Phillips ) |
Y
>Very nice explanation of HP, Bill. However, you forgot to tell where
the 550 lbs-ft/sec (33,000 lbs-ft/min) came from (as if anybody cared).
>
>When James Watt invented the steam engine he needed some way to
>quantify the work that it could do. Obviously, yea olde work-horse
>was the best example to use. However, Watt was a very conservative
>type. He observed the work that a common horse could do and he
>doubled it to equal one steam engine horsepower. Actually, a common
>horse can only do about15,000 lbs-ft/min.
>-Elon
>
>
Thank you Sir for your nice letter. I always wondered where the 550
ft-lb/s came from, and I have asked many...thank you again!
Best Wishes..........Bill Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark N. Hilsen" <71322.1267(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Lycoming Sump Help |
Date: Fri, 17 May 1996 20:46:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)crl.com>
Subject: Lycoming Sump Help
>>I have an IO320-B1A that I'm planning to put in my RV-6. The B1A has the
Bendix
>> fuel injection servo mounted on the aft face of the sump. I want to replace
the >>existing sump with one that mounts the servo on the forward part of the
bottom,
>> but so far I have not had any luck finding the part number.
>>
>> 1. The Lycoming part number of the correct sump, or:
>> 2. The model number of the IO320 that the correct sump is on.
>>
>>Dave Barnhart; RV-6 sn 23744
I spoke with Jeff Poschwatta, the new Lycoming expert in our neighborhood, and
Jeff asked me to post this response. (Errors must be considered mine, of
course.)
The Lycoming part number you want is LW-10751. Notes for this part number
include that it is for a Dynafocal mount, and for use with an injector. The
"LW" part stands for Lycoming-Williamsport. The part name is "oil sump
assembly." It is only for WCF engines, which I believe stands for "Wide
CYlinder Flange." Th engine on which this part originally came was IO-320-E2A.
The same part except for a carbureted engine is 74083, also for Dynafocal
mounts. It was found on Cessna 172s and Cherokees with typical numbers
O-320-D1A, -D2A, -D2B, -D2C, -E1A, -E2A, -E2B, -E2C, -E2D.
Jeff noted that the oil sump servo mount is not so much on "the forward part of
the bottom" as it is in the middle, but it was the closest match that he found.
The difference in the part numbers may be one of age: the newer parts start with
LW and the older parts are simply a number.
For your Rolodex:
Jeff Poschwatta -- "Mr. Lycoming"
17603 S.E. 295th Place
Kent, Washington 98042
(206) 639-1212 office
(206) 639-1221 fax
Expect him to be "wired" within a month. (Incidentally, he is an AI, building
an RV-4, and about 15 years into it! Beautiful work but he has been distracted
...)
Mark N. Hilsen 71322.1267(at)compuserve.com
RV-4 #2420 -- fuselage in jig
Kent, Washington
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
>Very nice explanation of HP, Bill. However, you forgot to tell where
>the 550 lbs-ft/sec (33,000 lbs-ft/min) came from (as if anybody cared).
>When James Watt invented the steam engine he needed some way to
>quantify the work that it could do. Obviously, yea olde work-horse
>was the best example to use. However, Watt was a very conservative
>type. He observed the work that a common horse could do and he
>doubled it to equal one steam engine horsepower. Actually, a common
>horse can only do about 15,000 lbs-ft/min.
>-Elon
Hmmm . . don't recall where I read it now . . it was about 30 years
ago. I seem to recall that Watt was using real horses for the
study but the horses available to him at the time were the small
ponies used in the mines. The figure quoted for draft horses was
on the order of 1500 lb-ft/sec or about 3 x pony power. I'll have
to see if that book is still in my library. 15,000 lb-ft/min seems
a bit light. 15,000/min converts to 250 lb-ft/sec . . . the act
of taking my own bod up the stairs exceeds that power. I'll
did around and see if I can find the reference.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Electronic Ignition Concerns |
>In an e-mail that accompanies this I describe some preliminary concerns arising
>from the post-crash testing of an IO-360 (200hp) that failed during takeoff of
a
>Velocity. In particular, it is possible that the engine's experimental
>ELECTRONIC IGNITION may have failed in such a way that it fired off schedule
and
>that such contrary firing caused the engine to cease running, even though there
>was a functioning, stock PMA Slick 4200 series mag on the right side providing
a
>normal sequenced spark.
Obviously, if one of two ignition systems became so far advanced with respect
to the operating system, the failed system would prevail with respect to when
ignition takes place. It would be interesting to see the failure analysis
of the engine along with one for the ignition system in question.
>Can anyone describe in technical terms both existing and planned electronic
>ignition systems for the Lycoming O-320/360 line, including their failure modes
>and backup systems, safeguards, and procedures?
There's been quite a bit of work done on electronic ignition replacements
for magnetos. Most notable of these are Klaus Xavier's LightSpeed system
and Jeff Rose's ElectroAir. There was also an exaustive article written
in Sport Aviation in the past two years about the ignition system for the
CAM-100. There's lots of ways to "skin a cat" and a similar number of
ways to light off a combustable mixture in a cylinder but generally
speaking, all three systems I've mentioned borrow heavily from automotive
technologies.
>For example, are the Hall-effect magnets well secured to the camshaft or
>crankshaft in each design? Is there a logic that prevents the system from
>firing if the magnets or a single magnet should slip or break off?
No one that I know of uses multiple "exciters" for timing. Both Lightspeed
and ElectroAir have single magnetic pickoffs that watch ferrous bolts
or teeth on a crankshaft driven component. Loss of sensor shuts the
system down.
>Is the ignition circuitry designed to be fault tolerant, fail-safe or
>fail-passive, and if so, how? Are there self-test, self-monitoring
>features to reliably warn of weak or failed systems before takeoff?
>What provisions are there for automatically managing the system,
>other than a simple on/off switch? Are the devices reliable with
>an MTBF approaching that of conventional magnetos?
>My questions are far from exhaustive . . . .
Actually, they pretty much cover the bases . . . generally speaking
all electronic ignitions are treated just like a mag. You get a
right/left/both test at run-up and that's about it. For the most
part, the failure modes are passive . . . meaning that the critter
just quits. MTBF should far exceed that of a magneto. 99.9%
of the systems on most cars run the lifetime of the car and go
to the salvage yard still working.
>I am certainly no electrical engineer. I am interested in
>learning because the potential advantages of electronic
>ignition merit the inquiry, but I cannot consider such a system
>if the risk is greater than stock PMA'd Slicks.
Electronic ignitions are here to stay. Further, I've been
around this business long enough to know that PMA or STC
guarantees NOTHING. Before anyone gets too concerned about
what appears to be a RUMOR, lets see what the data are and
furter, let's see if we agree with the analysis of that
data. I've also worked enough cases on the heals of NTSB
and their compadres to know that their analysis is not
necessarily carved in stone either. We're all human
beings after all.
I'd fly ANY of the three systems I've mentioned with no
more concerns than I currently have for magnetos . . .
Bob . ..
AeroElectric Connection
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <lewis(at)artery.cmet.af.mil> |
| Subject: | #40 vs #41 drill bits for dimpling |
(2nd try sending this message)
Frank Justice's manual says to use a #41 drill bit for all rivet holes where
one plans to dimple the skin, vs #40 if one intends to countersink. I
notice that Avery's RV builders kit doesn't include any #41 drill bits.
What's the experience of the group? Do folks use #40 bits even if
planning to dimple?
Tim Lewis
Talking to Avery and Vans, plan to order 6A kit soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: work bench size |
Tony,
If you have room, build a solid workbench 3'x8'. I build one 4'x8' and found
I never used that extra foot and it was to far to reach across. I build
another and the 3' was much more practical, I even put wings on it while
moving them around. I put wheels on mine to make it movable and used
a 3/4" sheet of plywood then a 3/4" sheet of particle board as the top
surface, you can drill into it and cleco stuff down. Countersink the screws
(I used drywall screws) so they don't interfere with the surface. The
particle board surface will last the whole project but I'll turn it over
for my next project. Hope this helps.
As far as electrical stuff, I have a drill press, a bandsaw, a 12" sander,
and a 1/2hp buffing motor; none of which I'd part with! :-)
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
On Tue, 21 May 1996 aol.com!FUNTFLY(at)matronics.com wrote:
> I am about to order an Rv-8 empenage. What would you guys recommend for a
> workbench size as well as other electrical tools that is a must?
>
> Thanks
>
> Tony Moradian
> funtfly(at)aol.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John E Musser <jemusser(at)tenet.edu> |
While at the FBO yesterday looking at a Skipper in the hanger, I noticed
that the Tech was working on the radio. When I asked him about the
NARCO, he said that they had a "great deal of trouble with them" but what
the heck, we have a bench full of these and can just swap them out. That
didn't leave me feeling too confident...
John
jemusser(at)tenet.edu
On Tue, 21 May 1996, Herman Dierks wrote:
> Does anyone get Aviation Consumer? They use to do avionics surveys.
> I would be a little concerned that the "Professional Pilot" may be
> biased to high dollar avionics and probably have someone else doing
> all the repair. On the positive side, they probably use the equipment
> more than us week-end flyers do.
>
> It is true that Narco pulled back all the field repair and it is now
> mainly return to factory repair, except for a few big repair stations
> in the field.
> King/Bendix is field repairable and supported by most Avionics shops.
> Herman.
> >
> >
> > > I like the Terra line, as they are so small, and they have the intercom.
capacity.
> > >however the King/Bendix line are less expensive.
> >
> > I receive a magazine named Professional Pilot. They often do reader
> > surveys on different topics. One such topic is avionics. The readers who
> > use their radios almost every day are probably a pretty good unbiased
> > source of info. In the survey published in the Aug 94 issue they asked
> > user to rate avionics reliability.
> >
> > Out of 18 companies, Terra was rated 17 with a 6.81 out of 10.
> > Bendix//King was rated 8 with a 8.55 out of 10. Top spot went to
> > Northstar, last to Canadian Marconi. Narco was 16th.
> >
> > For easy to read manuals Terra was 16th. Bendix/King 2nd. Narco 15th.
> >
> > They also rated Mfgr glitch response, loaner availability, AOG service and
> > tech reps. In the overall scoreUniversal Nav was #1. Bendix/King #4.
> > Narco #16. Terra last.
> >
> > I fly for a living and I would feel comfortable about other pilots
> > commenting on their equipment. I have yet to decide what to put in
> > my RV-4, but I know what it won't be.
> >
> > Mike Hiscock
> > shiscock(at)fox.nstn.ca
>
> Herman Dierks, Dept. E54S, AWSD, Austin, Texas
> mail: dierks(at)austin.ibm.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | walsh(at)cpeedy.ENET.dec.com |
| Subject: | speaking of dimples.... |
I was thumbing through an old RVator last night and Ken mentioned that the
RV4 that won grand champion in 1989 had rivets which were almost invisible.
The Lauritsens created their own dimple dies just for that reason.
Are the Cleveland dies really that good? Or is that effect really a matter
of laying on 50 coats of paint...? I'm using the Avery dies but until the
plane is painted, in about 100 years or so, I can't really tell how good
they will look. It sure would be nice to have invisible rivet lines......
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BDStobbe <70743.2727(at)CompuServe.COM> |
As a current user of Narco radios I would strongly urge anyone contemplating
using them to seriously reconsider.
My experiences with their service policy (ie; service is generally not available
in the field, radios must be returned to the factory), their
effectiveness/expertise (radios had to be returned to them 3 times before they
were finally fixed), and their poor customer relations would preclude me from
ever considering filling up my new airplane with their products!
Of course, it is possible that my experiences are atypical and that this type of
thing almost never happens...... yeah, right. Take it for what it's worth.
BStobbe
RV-6 22818
fuselage in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil> (Tom Craig-Stearman) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 footwells |
charset=US-ASCII
Boris,
No problems whatsoever. The drawings published in the RVator worked as
written. You can even blindly follow the dimensions given! I wish I could
say that for the entire airplane kit. I do not have a bending brake, so I
sanded a 3/16" radius into one corner of a board, clamped that over the
aluminum to my work bench, and bent the parts up around the radius. Worked
nicely. The dimensions given even left clearance for my two-inch rear seat
heater hose.
Good luck,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil
-------------
Original Text
From: Boris Robinson <inetw.net!smbr(at)matronics.com>, on 21-5-96 7:13 PM:
>I spent the weekend installing rear seat footwells in my RV-4.
Tom, did you have any problems, or tips. I'll be doing the same in a few
months.
Boris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil> (Tom Craig-Stearman) |
| Subject: | #40 vs #41 drill bits for dimpling |
charset=US-ASCII
Tim,
Use #41 bits for 3/32" dimpled holes. I noticed that rivets tend to be a
little looser in dimpled holes drilled to #40. The reason is that the
dimple die spreads the hole a little as you drive it home. Conversely, #40
holes work a little better for machine countersunk holes. The pilot nub on
the countersink cutter binds a little in the #41 hole. I don't think
either case is critical. For instance, in some places you nest a dimple
into a countersunk hole, and obviously they are the same size hole.
Good luck on your project.
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil
RV-4 awaiting finish kit
-------------
Original Text
From: Tim Lewis <artery.cmet.af.mil!lewis(at)matronics.com>, on 22-5-96 7:52
AM:
(2nd try sending this message)
Frank Justice's manual says to use a #41 drill bit for all rivet holes
where
one plans to dimple the skin, vs #40 if one intends to countersink. I
notice that Avery's RV builders kit doesn't include any #41 drill bits.
What's the experience of the group? Do folks use #40 bits even if
planning to dimple?
Tim Lewis
Talking to Avery and Vans, plan to order 6A kit soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mass(at)netcom.netcom.com (Glenn M. Massarotti) |
| Subject: | HELPHELPHELPHELP |
I seem to be having some problems unsubscribing to the list. I have read
ALL the faq's, e-mailed help to rv-list-request(at)matroncis.com, etc... and
have done EVERYTHING suggested. The reply keeps coming back that I'm not
subscribed to the list, but in fact, I am. As I don't seem to be having
any luck via the normal methods, I have decided to take this problem to
the group. ANY suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated. Tx - hope to
be back onto the list soon.
--
Dandy Day
Glenn
|
------|------
<===================================> .......................
\ / * * \ / . Glenn M. Massarotti .
* * * * . ATP, CFI-AIM .
/ \ * * / \ . mass(at)netcom.com .
<===================================> .......................
/ \
() ()
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: #40 vs #41 drill bits for dimpling |
I use #41 bits almost exclusively. When I have to machine c-sink
I go dig around my workbench for a #40 and run it through the
hole before using the c-sink. You can jam a c-skink pilot
through a #41 hole but it's asking for a busted off pilot.
The difference between #40 and #41 is _very_ small -- I don't
think it would be a big deal if you just used #40. But the
holes get widened quite a bit from dimpling so I try to do
what I can to minimize it.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Re: HELPHELPHELPHELP |
>--------------
>I seem to be having some problems unsubscribing to the list. I have read
>ALL the faq's, e-mailed help to rv-list-request(at)matroncis.com, etc... and
>have done EVERYTHING suggested. The reply keeps coming back that I'm not
>subscribed to the list, but in fact, I am. As I don't seem to be having
>any luck via the normal methods, I have decided to take this problem to
>the group. ANY suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated. Tx - hope to
>be back onto the list soon.
>
>--------------
Glenn, rv-list et al,
Your rather large .sig may have been confusing the system. Also, your
entry in the email address file didn't have your actual name attached.
I have removed you address by hand.
For future reference, here are some combinations to try if are having
trouble unsubscribing from the rv-list. I have used Glenn's address but
any address will be similar.
--
Send an email message to "rv-list-request(at)matronics.com"
Leave the Subject: field blank.
In the *body* of the message try:
unsubscribe
if that doesn't seem to work, try:
unsubscribe mass(at)netcom.netcom.com
if that doesn't seem to work either, try:
unsubscribe mass(at)netcom.netcom.com (Glenn M. Massarotti)
if that doesn't seem to work either, try:
unsubscribe mass(at)netcom.com
if that doesn't seem to work either, try:
unsubscribe mass(at)netcom.com (Glenn M. Massarotti)
--
I am fully aware that it shouldn't be this difficult, but majordomo is pretty
brain-dead.
I hope this helps,
Matt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil> (Tom Craig-Stearman) |
charset=US-ASCII
Elon,
Sure! The following data are from Formula Power's information brochure.
The engines are still under development, so these numbers are not
necessarily final.
Brake Specific Fuel Consumption for the 2.2L engines is:
0.46 Lbs/HP.Hour at full power,
0.42 Lbs/HP.Hour at cruise power.
Estimated TBO (no engines in long service yet) is 1500 hours. I don't have
any estimates of overhaul cost, but I'll bet it is considerably less than
for a Lycoming.
Weight of the engine, installed and ready to go, but less the radiator and
coolant, is 240 lbs. The radiator and coolant are not factored in because
they will vary from airplane to airplane. The package for the RV-4 is not
ready yet. This is less than the same weight of a Lycoming. The Formula
Power folks are planning to mate the engine to the existing Van's Aircraft
engine mount, keeping the propeller in the same position. This will move
the engine module CG some distance forward of that of the Lycoming, to keep
the CG shift to a minimum. Of course, the owner can fine-tune this with
his choice of propeller and accessories.
Formula Power has several horsepower levels available from this engine.
The one I am planning to use produces 183 HP at 5200 RPM. They plan for a
cruise RPM of about 4200, near the torque peak.
They are considering both the stock fuel and ignition computer, and the
Airflow Performance fuel injection system. Both systems have varying
degrees of automatic operation. Last time I talked with them, my engine
would be equiped with the Airflow Performance system, which maintains the
proper fuel/air mixture within about 5,000 feet of altitude change, at
which time it must be re-leaned. For normal flights within approximately
10,000 feet of the ground, I will lean only two times in a flight! The
stock engine computer offers a number of advantages, which the engineers
are considering very carefully. It comes with the engine, reducing cost.
It is already matched to the engine, reducing engineering effort. It
provides automatic leaning with unleaded fuel, via the normal oxygen sensor,
up to about 12,000 feet. When used with leaded fuel, such as avgas, there
will have to be a manual override, using a control potentiometer to send
the electrical signal normally sent by the oxygen sensor. This computer
fails safe in both the fuel system and the ignition system. The fuel
system fails to a mid-range mixture, biased to the rich side, and RPM is
limited. The ignition system fails to a fixed timing, like a magneto.
Formula Power is also considering mounting an injector in the intake
manifold to provide a backup even if the entire fuel injection system
should crump. I should note that the autogyro folks are already using
direct-drive Subarus with the stock computer, and report very good results.
Contact Don Parham for more information.
The Formula Power engineers are using a belt reduction drive that
completely isolates the propeller loads from the engine. With normal belt
drives, tightening the belt places bending loads on the crankshaft,
accelerating bearing wear. Ditto for thrust loads, torque loads,
gyroscopic loads, etc. Not so the Formula Power setup. You can unbolt the
engine from the airframe, leaving the propeller and reduction drive still
firmly mounted to the engine mount.
The chief advantages that I see are two-fold: it is a liquid-cooled engine,
and it is a modern engine.
Liquid cooling removes shock cooling concerns, although it adds complexity.
It also allows for a more efficient engine. An air-cooled engine must
operate over such a wide temperature range that its tolerances must be
sloppy (I'm sure you know more about this stuff than I do Elon, but this is
for the benefit of other listers!) Allthough liquid cooling adds concern
over coolant loss, the Subaru may be operated indefinitely at 45% power
with complete coolant loss, allowing for a limp-home mode. This has been
successfully tested (unintentionally, of course) in the autogyro
installations.
And, the Subaru is a modern-technology engine. I cannot bear the idea of
bolting a twenty-thousand-dollar 1930s-era air-cooled, carburetted,
magneto-fired four-banger on my shiny new airplane! How many of you would
put up with a car that refused to start when the temperature dipped below
20 degrees? Or that had the timing set in stone at 25 degrees? Or that
iced up on a humid day? Or in which you could not change the throttle
setting for fear of cracking a twelve-hundred-dollar cylinder? I
emphatically do not intend to fly the engine at the expense of flying the
airplane!
With all that said, I still do not fault those who take the time-proven
Lycoming over the new auto engine conversions. That is an entirely
reasonable choice. I just want to bring my own airplane into the modern
era.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil
RV-4 elbows-deep in the electrical system
-------------
Original Text
From: "Elon Ormsby" <quickmail.llnl.gov!Elon.Ormsby(at)matronics.com>, on
21-5-96 9:12 AM:
REGARDING Suburu RV-6
Tom Craig you state... "but I think the Formula Power firewall-forward
package
will be somewhat less expensive than NSI's. Neither system will be cheaper
than a Lycoming of the same horsepower, but I think the value received for
the
price is greater.
---------------------------------
Tom, I was wondering why you think the "value" is so much greater than a
certified motor since It costs about the same for the same horsepower.
Could
you share some stats about the Suburu?
Fuel effeciency: What its specific fuel consumption (Lbs/HP/hour)?
Durability (TBO): How many hours and costs to rebuild?
Weight:
-Elon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil> (Tom Craig-Stearman) |
| Subject: | New engine test pilot |
charset=US-ASCII
John Walsh wrote:
>If somebody is going to be the first RV to fly a particular engine,that
engine should be installed for FREE and the pilot should be paid to be a
test pilot. Otherwise, let them buy their own RV to test with.
Harumph....
I agree, John. Without going into details, which are not yet finalized, I
have worked a similar deal with Formula Power, although they will not pay
me to be a test pilot. Formula Power has not yet sold an engine or
firewall forward kit, not even to me. We simply have a verbal
understanding that, when the engine and firewall forward package are ready,
if I am satisfied with it, I will install it in my airplane. I have not
sent any money, not even a deposit. I can walk away at any time. I am
entirely satified with their conscientious approach.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil> (Tom Craig-Stearman) |
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 footwells |
charset=US-ASCII
Boris,
No problems whatsoever. The drawings published in the RVator worked as
written. You can even blindly follow the dimensions given! I wish I could
say that for the entire airplane kit. I do not have a bending brake, so I
sanded a 3/16" radius into one corner of a board, clamped that over the
aluminum to my work bench, and bent the parts up around the radius. Worked
nicely. The dimensions given even left clearance for my two-inch rear seat
heater hose.
Good luck,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil
-------------
Original Text
From: Boris Robinson <inetw.net!smbr(at)matronics.com>, on 21-5-96 7:13 PM:
>I spent the weekend installing rear seat footwells in my RV-4.
Tom, did you have any problems, or tips. I'll be doing the same in a few
months.
Boris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil> (Tom Craig-Stearman) |
| Subject: | #40 vs #41 drill bits for dimpling |
charset=US-ASCII
Tim,
Use #41 bits for 3/32" dimpled holes. I noticed that rivets tend to be a
little looser in dimpled holes drilled to #40. The reason is that the
dimple die spreads the hole a little as you drive it home. Conversely, #40
holes work a little better for machine countersunk holes. The pilot nub on
the countersink cutter binds a little in the #41 hole. I don't think
either case is critical. For instance, in some places you nest a dimple
into a countersunk hole, and obviously they are the same size hole.
Good luck on your project.
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil
RV-4 awaiting finish kit
-------------
Original Text
From: Tim Lewis <artery.cmet.af.mil!lewis(at)matronics.com>, on 22-5-96 7:52
AM:
(2nd try sending this message)
Frank Justice's manual says to use a #41 drill bit for all rivet holes
where
one plans to dimple the skin, vs #40 if one intends to countersink. I
notice that Avery's RV builders kit doesn't include any #41 drill bits.
What's the experience of the group? Do folks use #40 bits even if
planning to dimple?
Tim Lewis
Talking to Avery and Vans, plan to order 6A kit soon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tim Lewis <lewis(at)artery.cmet.af.mil> |
On 22 May 1996, BDStobbe wrote:
> As a current user of Narco radios I would strongly urge anyone contemplating
> using them to seriously reconsider.
>
> My experiences with their service policy (ie; service is generally not available
> in the field, radios must be returned to the factory), their
> effectiveness/expertise (radios had to be returned to them 3 times before they
> were finally fixed), and their poor customer relations would preclude me from
> ever considering filling up my new airplane with their products!
>
> Of course, it is possible that my experiences are atypical and that this type
of
> thing almost never happens...... yeah, right. Take it for what it's worth.
I concur. I owned a Grumman with a Narco 122 Nav for 3 years. During
that time the Narco went to the shop 4 times. Twice to local service,
twice to the factory.... all for the same problem (dead needles despite
strong audio). I'll never buy Narco again. The King nav in the same
plane, similar age, soldiered on nicely.
Tim Lewis, Capt, USAF
(slected for Major yesterday, now I can buy my kit)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: #40 vs #41 drill bits for dimpling |
>(2nd try sending this message)
>
>Frank Justice's manual says to use a #41 drill bit for all rivet holes where
>one plans to dimple the skin, vs #40 if one intends to countersink. I
>notice that Avery's RV builders kit doesn't include any #41 drill bits.
>What's the experience of the group? Do folks use #40 bits even if
>planning to dimple?
>
>Tim Lewis
>Talking to Avery and Vans, plan to order 6A kit soon
Tim, I'd order the #41 split point bits from Avery, etc. You'll end up with
a little tighter hole when dimpling. Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)ltec.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: speaking of dimples.... |
>I was thumbing through an old RVator last night and Ken mentioned that the
>RV4 that won grand champion in 1989 had rivets which were almost invisible.
>The Lauritsens created their own dimple dies just for that reason.
>
>Are the Cleveland dies really that good? Or is that effect really a matter
>of laying on 50 coats of paint...? I'm using the Avery dies but until the
>plane is painted, in about 100 years or so, I can't really tell how good
>they will look. It sure would be nice to have invisible rivet lines......
>
>John
John, Cleveland makes good dies although somewhat overpriced. Avery's are
good dies, as well. You might try something that I did. I have 5 sets of
3/32" dimple dies. I have the following die sets: 12 year old US Tools, new
Cleavland, 3 sets of dies given to me by Art Chard and one of the first
sets that Avery built (not used on this test). I drilled some scrap .032"
aluminum, drilled several rows of #41 holes and dimpled each row with a set
of dies. I back riveted the rivets and then dropped the test panel off at
my friendly local aircraft painter. I asked him to shoot the piece as he
was painting an airplane. He treated the test piece just like an aircraft
surface and didn't have to mix up paint for just this piece.
You could probably do this same thing by sending a test piece to various
people of this list. Or, maybe you have enough builders locally. I'm sure
they'd be willing to dimple some holes for you. Then you could set the
rivets and complete the test.
As far as hiding the rivet line --- I think it's more important to have
uniform paint coverage so all of the rivets look the same. Besides, us
RVer's want people to be able to tell our superior aluminum RV's from those
"ah, just slap some more micro on it" plastic airplanes. Trying to hide
rivets just adds weight and increased building time and cost.
Oh, the results of my test : #1-a set that Art gave me, #2-CAT and #3- US
Tools. All three were very close in appearance.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)ltec.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: regs for homebuilts in different countries |
Thanks to all who replied for my request for info on regs
for homebuilts outside of the US. I got several replies
from people in Canada, and one from New Zealand. I know
there are lurkers out there from other countries besides
those two -- anyone?
I'll summarize later.
Thanks.
Randall Henderson
randall(at)edt.com
RV-6
---------------Original Message---------------
I'd like to hear from folks in countries other than the US regarding
regulations for homebuilts and flying in general in their countries.
Anyone who lives outside of the US or has direct knowledge of the
following subjects in countries other than the US I would appreciate
answers to the any of the following questions you have knowledge of.
Feel free to skip the items you don't know about.
Please respond via PRIVATE e-mail to:
randall(at)edt.com
I will summarize and post to the -list later.
-----
Please tell me which country you are from or are responding about,
and any of the following items you have knowledge of:
- Do homebuilts have to be certified to production standards?
- Can you do your own maintenance and/or inspections on a plane you
built yourself?
- What procedures are required for an airworthiness cert. (brief summary,
e.g. inspections required, by whom, certification standards, etc.)
- What restrictions apply (e.g. no aero, no IFR, etc, no night VFR, etc.)
- Are VFR flight plans required some or all of the time (homebuit or not)?
- Is nighttime VFR prohibited a) for homebuilts, b) for everyone?
- Is there a fee structure for using the ATC system or flying per se?
- Do you have to get prior permission to land at public use airports?
- Do people with US pilot certificates need to take a written or flight
test or jump through other hoops before flying solo and/or renting aircraft
in your country?
- Are you aware of any way that the US regulations are MORE strict than
those in your country?
- Any other comments on the differences between your country's regs and
US regs?
Thanks in advance!
Randall Henderson
randall(at)edt.com
---------------End Original Message---------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terryg(at)SceptreCal.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM |
| Subject: | Re: work bench size |
Tony -- I don't know what would be the ideal size, but
I decided to go with two benches. The first one is
about 2' 6" wide, and about 5' long...rather than
attaching the table top permanently to the legs, I
built a substructure to which I attached the table top
with six, six inch by 1/4" carriage bolts. I can now
level the top quite precisely (same theory as a pool
table), which I think will be useful for building up
the control surfaces. I also made the top in two
layers; the top layer is 1/2" particle board which can
be replaced when it gets too 'holey' from drilling and
cleco'ing.
The second bench is about 18" wide and 16' long, and it
is along one wall of my 1 1/2 car garage. The intended
use is to lay up the spars, and it can then be folded
down when the wing is in the jig. I apply the same
theory about the replaceable top as with the 'level'
bench above. Of course, the jig itself is a long
narrow workbench, which I also topped with 1/2"
particle. You'll rind that pretty useful as well.
As far as the rest of the shop is concerned, one word;
pegboard.
With respect to power tools, there are some pretty good
tool lists on Hovan's home page that I think will be
good sources of info. I've found a stand up drill
press to be very useful, and also, I think I'll wind up
getting a small bandsaw before I'm done.
Hope this helps...regards...
Terry in Calgary
S/N 24414
"Prepping VS Parts for Priming"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | eilts(at)sg37.dseg.ti.com (Henry Eilts) |
| Subject: | Re: Legal (was Belt Drive) |
>
> >
> >A word of caution - you should NOT let it be known that you are designing
> for
> >an aviation application! Manufacturers have the right to restrict the
> >environment in which their products are used. Example, Goodyear (and others)
> >will stop you from using their products for aviation use (their tires
> >excepted). Listeners - ask our lawyernet friend about this one - please
> >don't
> >come back with all kinds of individual anecdotal evidence. They are rare
> >occurrences and not enforceable. (boy, have I opened up a can of worms!!!)
> >
> >
In Kitplanes Magazines a few years ago, Gates Rubber Company ran a
large ad that said, essentially, "We do not market products for kit or
homebuilt aircraft and will not knowingly sell or give information on
our products to those that do." A sign of the times, it seems.
Hank Eilts
About to start on an RV6 tail.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gretzw(at)tcplink.nrel.gov |
| Subject: | Re: speaking of dimples.... |
No problem. Use bondo to cover rivets before painting.
Warren Gretz
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: RV-List: speaking of dimples....
Date: 5/22/96 10:40 AM
I was thumbing through an old RVator last night and Ken mentioned that the
RV4 that won grand champion in 1989 had rivets which were almost invisible.
The Lauritsens created their own dimple dies just for that reason.
Are the Cleveland dies really that good? Or is that effect really a matter
of laying on 50 coats of paint...? I'm using the Avery dies but until the
plane is painted, in about 100 years or so, I can't really tell how good
they will look. It sure would be nice to have invisible rivet lines......
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ecole(at)ix.netcom.com (EDWARD COLE) |
Does anyone have any details on the annual RV BBQ held in Bakersfield
during the Merced Fly-in? Is it open to builders as well as flyers?
Any help would be appreciated.
Ed Cole RV6A 24430
ecole(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ecole(at)ix.netcom.com (EDWARD COLE) |
You wrote:
>
>How much does the Subaru setup for an RV4 cost?
>
NSI's firewall forward was quoted at $19K + for the first factory run
(if you act now!)for an RV6. I don't know if they have one available
for the RV4.
Ed Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | billphil(at)ix.netcom.com (William Phillips ) |
| Subject: | Sorry for Cluttering your boxes! |
mail directly. I have been answering messages directed to me with a
reply posted to all of you. Sorry, that was not my intent. I thought
I was emailing the people directly and privately. I thought it worked
like the news groups where you can simply click on the respond box and
your answer goes only to the person who made the posting. Again,
sorry to clutter up your email boxes with my personal letters.
Bill Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terryg(at)SceptreCal.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM |
| Subject: | speaking of dimples.... |
One other technique that has been suggested (by Gil Alexander, I believe) for
nearly invisible rivet lines is to machine countersink, set the rivets slightly
"proud" (not quite flush), and then use a rivet shaver to shave the top of the
rivets flush with the surrounding surface.
Bear in mind that I'm not quoting this first hand, and I've personally opted for
the 'simple dimple'. Food for thought, though...
Terry in Calgary
S/N 24414
"Prepping VS Parts for Primer"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Velocity Crash Update: Electronic Ignition |
| From: | Mike Kukulski <kukulski(at)indirect.com> |
Doesn't seem likely to me that an engine with an operable magneto would
quit outright just because an electronic ignition module went haywire,
even with random spark plug firing. It might run real rough, but the
regular timing of the operable mag should provide sufficient power to at
least return for a landing.
Had one magneto shell out and fire randomly on an Aeronca Champ I owned
previously, and the 65hp Continental ran pretty rough, but it ran.
Mike Kukulski (kukulski(at)indirect.com)
RV-4 N96MK (installing wing root fairings, still)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | gil(at)rassp.hac.com (Gil Alexander) |
| Subject: | speaking of dimples.... |
>
>One other technique that has been suggested (by Gil Alexander, I believe) for
Wasn't me! I believe in the "dimple it if you can theory". I also
believe that 0.032 should NOT be countersunk for 3/32 rivets if you want
full strength joints (see the RV-list archive for the posting of _actual_
strength numbers)
>nearly invisible rivet lines is to machine countersink, set the rivets
>slightly
>"proud" (not quite flush), and then use a rivet shaver to shave the top of the
>rivets flush with the surrounding surface.
If you _must_ do this with 3/32 rivets, then the protusion _before_
shaving must be less than 0.006 inch, and the finished rivet head diameter
_after_ shaving must be greater than 0.161 inch. Exceed these dimensions,
and there WILL be a loss of strength.
... Gil (dimple it) Alexander
RV6A, #20701
gil(at)rassp.hac.com I think it may be more technique related than
die related. I personally get better dimples
with my 6 year old Avery die set (before anyone
mentioned "spring back" :^) than my shiny, new
CAT dies. I do use a heavy hit and the Avery
C-Frame dimpler. For good looks, consistency
is probably more important than the actual
dimple.
>
>Bear in mind that I'm not quoting this first hand, and I've personally
>opted for
>the 'simple dimple'. Food for thought, though...
>
>Terry in Calgary
>S/N 24414
>"Prepping VS Parts for Primer"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Harry Paine <HPair(at)ix3.ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Merced, Ca BBQ |
>Does anyone have any details on the annual RV BBQ held in Bakersfield
>during the Merced Fly-in? Is it open to builders as well as flyers?
>Any help would be appreciated.
>Ed Cole RV6A 24430
>ecole(at)ix.netcom.com
>
>Ed & everyone..............
Was in bakoland 1 hour ago. Talked to John Harmon... and the BBQ is open to
anyone with... I think $5.00 per person (price subject to change without
notice) plus drinks. They usually don't start serving Tri Tip till around
5:00 P.M.. to give time for people to fly in from Merced. Its very casual
and there are always lots of RV's to drool over.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Don Goodin <71201.1375(at)CompuServe.COM> |
I hear about people keeping logs on their project and I think it is required by
FAA. What type book do folks use? Is there one that is comercially avaliable?
Any help will be appreciated.
Working on RV4 HS.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)ammeterj.seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Re: Merced, Ca BBQ |
>Does anyone have any details on the annual RV BBQ held in Bakersfield
>during the Merced Fly-in? Is it open to builders as well as flyers?
>Any help would be appreciated.
>Ed Cole RV6A 24430
>ecole(at)ix.netcom.com
>
>
Ed,
I've never been there but I can tell you that _any_ RV BBQ is open to
builders as well as flyers. We welcome all.
FYI, our Puget Sound RVator BBQ, held on Saturday during the Arlington
Airfair, should be the best ever. It will be on the west side of the field
right next to the RV aircraft parking. We're going to have a hospitality
tent along with reduced admission to the Airfair for all RV builders and
flyers.
The BBQ will include FREE burgers, dogs, soft drinks, etc.
All RV builders, flyers and would-be's should make the Arlington Airfair a
'must attend' affair. Arlington has the small airport feel with the large
airfair attraction. Arlington is also the home of the 'Blackjack Squadron'.
They will be featured this year during the airfair.
The Blackjack Squadron, for those of you that may not have heard of them,
are composed of RV-3 and RV-4 pilots that have worked at close quarters
flight. They are retired and active military and airline pilots as well as
pilots just like you and me. The only prerequesite is an interest in
precision flying.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)ammeterj.seanet.com
Seattle WA, USA
RV-6 N16JA
Flying 5 years
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark N. Hilsen" <71322.1267(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Velocity Crash Update: Electronic Ignition |
I have had a close relationship with two recip engine failures related to
magnetos. The first was my very first flight as a newly certificated private
pilot on March 28, 1969 when a defectively wired magneto switch vibrated both
mag wires to ground and left me in a very low energy state -- no thrust, 400'
and 68 mph straight ahead over Lake Washington at Renton Field, Washington (home
of the Boeing 737). (As it was there was energy enough to bend around, or
almost all the way around, to the runway, so the story is exciting only in my
recollection.)
The second was years later when, as an attorney, I represented a maintenance
shop via its insurer in sorting out what appeared to have been a double mag
failure -- nearly impossible, one would think, but the expert's workups were
thorough and left little doubt in my mind. And at the time I had at least 2500
hours of little airplane recip time, was familiar with engine theory and
operation, and was forced to consider that the most likely probability. (There
was more to it than simple mag failure, of course: airplane sitting unflown and
unannualed for years in damp hangar, mag service bulletins uncomplied with,
hasty preflight and sequential poor judgment all around -- but case ultimately
"went away," as they say.)
In the Velocity case, I was personally briefed by the Lycoming rep who had
examined and test run the engine in Florida *the day before.* Although his
report was oral, preliminary, minus a lot of gritty detail, and subject to his
own biases, I do not consider his assessment mere rumor.
Tell me, if the electronic ignition system's triggering magnets were slipping or
had otherwise shifted to fire, say, 40 to 60 degrees, BTDC, would a normally
running opposite-side magneto have any influence on the outcome? My impression
is that once the fuel/air charge is lit off, the properly timed right magneto
spark is now irrelevant, coming as it were in the middle of the fire. I suspect
that the engine would simply shake/seize to a halt, possibly banging and popping
if the spark advance failed slowly or randomly.
I would also like to find a good reference to the likely failure modes of
electronic ignition systems. I am sure that most strategies and designs have
been worked out, and that there are many good manfacturers out there, but I
would like to have a more complete understanding of what is unavoidably subject
to failure and what other risks can be controlled. Any recommendations?
As for getting to the switch in time on takeoff, the highest workload regime in
my book, permit me to suggest that we do not want to plant the seed in fellow
pilots' minds that an engine difficulty on takeoff should have them reaching for
the mag switch instead of concentrating on *flying the airplane.* If solving an
engine problem were as simple as flipping a switch we might mount such a switch
on the throttle or stick, or in a red "panic button" on the front center panel.
But an engine shaking on takeoff might be caused by a dozen different things,
and reaching for a switch could as easily compound the problem as solve it --
for example, by switching in haste to the dead-side mag and causing an absolute
failure, or wasting time with the mag switch when it is the fuel valve or pump
that has caused the popping. We are safer to emphasize in training the
generalized answer, *fly the airplane first* for if you have to land, you are
much better to land/impact under control than vainly or distractedly twisting at
knobs, valves and switches.
By the way, this proposition of *fly the airplane first* is not intended solely
for low-timers, or some condescending notion of the "lowest common denominator":
it is long standing and conventional FAA / Boeing / McDonnell-Douglas / Lockheed
doctrine (sorry about not including Airbus, AB320Flyer, but I can't understand
their manuals!) aimed at pilots with tens of thousands of hours, regular
recurrency training, and annual or semi-annual proficiency checkrides where
engine failures on takeoff are the rule, not the exception. The Boeing [insert
here name of major airline] 737-300 manual is explicit: from an engine failure
at V1 through climb to 500' AGL is "quiet time" -- the pilot flying concentrates
on flying the airplane while preventing the pilot not flying from getting so
jumpy he/she decides to shut down the wrong engine or otherwise take some hasty
action which would make us both famous in an Aviation Week & Space Technology
article (one which included our age and total flying time = very bad news).
Sorry to be pedantic. This accident just struck a nerve.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RV list-broken |
Bob,
I can tell you that the RV-list is alive and well in my neck of the
woods. Incidentally, concerning material for empennage jig, how particular
were you in choosing the individual pieces of wood to use; what type of wood
did you use and what dimensions? I'm having trouble finding any straight,
dry 4x4's. Thanks
Bob Nelson RDNFLY(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | barrow(at)zk3.dec.com |
| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition (chatter) |
<199605230019.RAA12437(at)ns2.indirect.com>
> Mike Kukulski (kukulski(at)indirect.com)
> Doesn't seem likely to me that an engine with an operable magneto would
> quit outright just because an electronic ignition module went haywire,
Well this is definately a little off subject, but i retrofitted
a motorcycle with an eloctronic ignition once. Normally this
motor used a fixed timing, but the eloctronic box advanced a great
deal at idle. Anyway, at stop lights if you almost stalled the
engine would "bounce back" and start running backwards. It was a
two-stroke. I learned to check the tach and make sure it was positive
before letting the clutch out.
You should have seen my face the first time this happened at a light
and i almost hit the car behind me. After all motorcycles don't have
a reverse gear...
Marcus Barrow
________________________________________________________________________________
Don Goodin wrote:
>
> I hear about people keeping logs on their project and I think it is required
by
> FAA. What type book do folks use? Is there one that is comercially avaliable?
> Any help will be appreciated.
> Working on RV4 HS.
I have one that is pretty basic but works. It is written in MSAccess.
If anyone would like a copy, please email me directly
don mack
donmack@super-highway.net
RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | walsh(at)cpeedy.ENET.dec.com |
| Subject: | Re: speaking of dimples.... |
Bob,
Yes, I think I will try your test anyway. I might want to play with
setting dimples with different pressure. This will definately be a
back burner thing.
I don't intend to go to any extremes. I won't c-sink and I wouldn't even
think of any kind of filler. However, I would like to make the dimples
come out as nice as possible.
BTW, anybody got Cleveland's number? I think I would like to try a set of
their dies.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KennyCobb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Merced, Ca BBQ |
Ed, The Bakersfield BBQ and fly-in is open to everyone you can
walk-in, drive-in or fly-in, spam cans, plastic, rag & tube it doesn't
matter everyone is welcome. This is a very laid back group of people.
The date is Sat June 8th at Bakersfield Muni airport ( not to be
confused with BFL) if you have any questions you can E-mail Kenny Cobb
@aol.com
There will be a prize for greatest distance flown in.
Ken Crabtree
Bakersfield, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WStucklen(at)aol.com |
>I concur. I owned a Grumman with a Narco 122 Nav for 3 years. During
>that time the Narco went to the shop 4 times. Twice to local service,
>twice to the factory.... all for the same problem (dead needles despite
>strong audio). I'll never buy Narco again. The King nav in the same
>plane, similar age, soldiered on nicely.
>
>Tim Lewis, Capt, USAF
>(slected for Major yesterday, now I can buy my kit)
>
>
>
Ditto on the Narco gear. I have a NAV 122A that has been in and out of the
shop more often than I want to think about. Some of the failures could have
been deadly: Deflected needles showing off coarse, with no flags. (Good thing
I ALWAY double check with a second radio!) Buy King and save yourself a lot
of time & money....
Tim, congradulations (in advance) on the promotion!
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
>I hear about people keeping logs on their project and I think it is required by
>FAA. What type book do folks use? Is there one that is comercially avaliable?
>Any help will be appreciated.
>Working on RV4 HS.
Don, I used legal pads. I wrote down the date, the time spent and what I
did. I just paper clipped them together. Not real classy, but it satisfied
the letter of the law. My inspector spent 3 hours, from 4 to 7 pm (they get
off at 4:00. He was in my town to do an inspection on the local FBO and
said he'd just as soon look at my homebuilt as go back to his motel room and
do paper work), and didn't look at the log or the photo album. He spent the
whole time looking over the aiplane and asking me questions. By the time he
got done, he said he didn't need to look at anything else. He could tell by
talking to me that I built the airplane. He even got on his back and
checked up behind the instrument panel with a flashlight and inspection
mirror. I really feel that I and the taxpayers go their money's worth from
this federal employee and I was glad he was so diligent. Oh, what did he
find wrong? Nothing really, but he said he couldn't let me off scott free,
with a grin. He had me put a tie wrap on a plastic gyro hose that was on a
"bulbed" fitting instead of a "barbed" fitting. Also, I had used torque
seal on all of my bolts/nuts but didn't have any seal on the #3 bolts that
held the fab air box to the carb mounting plate, so he said I should put
some there. Dealing with this inspector was a real treat. He said his
mission was not to "write people up" but to make sure the airplane was as
safe as it could be. He had been a "hands-on" mechanic for years prior to
joining the FAA and was very knowledgable.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)ltec.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RV list-broken |
>Bob,
> I can tell you that the RV-list is alive and well in my neck of the
>woods. Incidentally, concerning material for empennage jig, how particular
>were you in choosing the individual pieces of wood to use; what type of wood
>did you use and what dimensions? I'm having trouble finding any straight,
>dry 4x4's. Thanks
> Bob Nelson RDNFLY(at)aol.com
Bob, I was fortunate to have access to a couple of salvage 4x4's that were
old and very dry. For the horizontal cross piece, I bought three 2x4's and
made an "I" beam by gluing and screwing them together on my very flat shop
floor. I think the most important thing is not necessarily that the jig be
100% straight but that it be stable and not change dimensions. You will
probably need to shim your hinge bracket fixtures (called jig fixture
brackets in Avery's catalog) on the horizontal cross piece no matter what.
Another idea that I think has a lot of merit is to make your own 4x4's. I
saw a fuselage jig that was constructed in this manner. The builder had the
lumber yard rip 4x8 foot sheets of 3/4" plywood into 4" strips and glued and
screwed them togther. When dry, he took them back and had them planed. He
had a really nice and sturdy fuselage jig. This would work good for the
wing jig. You could make the uprights any length you want by staggering
appropriate lengths. You could do the same with the horizontal cross piece
as well. A plywood jig would probably be as stable as steel with the added
advantage of easily being able to attach various items. Bob
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BARNES_ERIC(at)Tandem.COM |
t mean anything)anC4U,S4@4W1A;F1A| Subject: | RV-6 Wingkit for sale |
I pulled this off Compuserve (classifieds) last night - thought someone
may be interested. Compuserve format would make the contact address:
103134.2543(at)compuserve.com
*******************************************************************
Aircraft Kit for Sale (RV-6) Ad number: 2883
From: Michael OConnor 103134,2543 Location : NV
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Experimental RV-6 Wing kit for sale. Kit includes
builders manual, drawings and some accessories. 3 yrs old still
in box asking $3200.00
*******************************************************************
Eric
Barnes_Eric(at)tandem.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rbusick(at)nmsu.edu (Robert Busick) |
>I hear about people keeping logs on their project and I think it is required by
>FAA. What type book do folks use? Is there one that is comercially avaliable?
>Any help will be appreciated.
>Working on RV4 HS.
I use Vans Calendar and keep track of the number of hours worked
per day and what I did. My approch is more like a daily journal entry.
Bob Busick
RV-6
rbusick(at)nmsu.edu
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: speaking of dimples.... |
>Bob,
>
>Yes, I think I will try your test anyway. I might want to play with
>setting dimples with different pressure. This will definately be a
>back burner thing.
>
>I don't intend to go to any extremes. I won't c-sink and I wouldn't even
>think of any kind of filler. However, I would like to make the dimples
>come out as nice as possible.
>
>BTW, anybody got Cleveland's number? I think I would like to try a set of
>their dies.
>
>John
Cleaveland's number is 515-432-6794 Fax no is 515-432-7804
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Elon Ormsby" <Elon.Ormsby(at)quickmail.llnl.gov> |
REGARDING Bill Phillips
Am I missing sumptin? Your progress reports have been very interesting and
informative. They are factual and succinct. I have not seen a complaint
referring to your technical details as chatter. Please keep us informed as you
experiment. As you can see there is much interest (and controversy) about
alternative engines. Replying privately may be and answer for one person but
could be educational/informative for a 100 others.
-Elon
ormsby1(at)llnl.gov
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rob Lee <av8r(at)hic.net> |
| Subject: | Re: speaking of dimples.... |
>>I don't intend to go to any extremes. I won't c-sink and I wouldn't even
>>think of any kind of filler. However, I would like to make the dimples
>>come out as nice as possible.
>>
>>John
Agreed some dies are better than others, but even mediocre dimples will look
good if you just take your deburring tool (or a C/S bit), and give each
dimple a turn or two before inserting the rivets. I doubt that you remove
any significant amount of material, you simply make the dimple "straight
sided", as is the rivet.
- Worked for me (of course I learnt this afer finishing the empennage and
one wing!!)
Regards
Rob Lee, RV6A N517RL
av8r(at)hic.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil> |
charset=US-ASCII
I don't know how much the final firewall-forward kit will cost from Formula
Power. The 183-hp engine I am considering lists for $11,000.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil
RV-4 awaiting finish kit
-------------
Original Text
From: aol.com!BHamlin1(at)matronics.com, on 5/22/96 3:02 PM:
How much does the Subaru setup for an RV4 cost?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | joehine(at)mi.net (joehine) |
| Subject: | Re: one year of flight |
>
>.
>I had an engine failure at 60hrs and I was able to land it safely.
Tom,
Could you tell us what caused the engine failure....we can all learn from
these things
thanks,
Joe
joehine(at)mi.net
506-452-1072 Home
506-452-3495 Work
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
internet:kitfox(at)lists.colorado.edu
To all who have books on order, we shipped about 90 books via
US mails on Tuesday. Thank you for your patience folks! For
older subscribers awaiting Rev 6 updates, the art goes to the
printer in the morning (Friday). We've got about 1000 of those
to mail so it may take a bit but it's all over execpt for the
licking and sticking!
If you don't get a book within the next week, rattle our cage. They
go out 4th class and 99.5% of them reach their intended receivers but
we DO lose one from time to time.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dan Boudro <dboudro(at)nmia.com> |
| Subject: | Re: speaking of dimples.... |
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool and Material
voice 515.432.6794
fax 515.432.7804
email cat3tools(at)aol.com
Dan Boudro
RV-4 N9167Z
Albuquerque, NM
dboudro(at)nmia.com
On Thu, 23 May 1996 cpeedy.ENET.dec.com!walsh(at)matronics.com wrote:
*** snip ******> Bob,
>
> BTW, anybody got Cleveland's number? I think I would like to try a set of
> their dies.
>
> John
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terryg(at)SceptreCal.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM |
| Subject: | Jig Construction (was "RV list-broken") |
Bob -- you wrote...
"what type of wood did you use and what dimensions?
I'm having trouble finding any straight, dry 4x4's."
I had the same problem. The problem was compounded by
the fact I bought them straight, and then put them in
my warm, dry garage for a couple of months, and they
warped pretty badly. I solved the problem by modifying
the attach method at top and bottom. I used a threaded
rod and some angle iron to make adjustable attach
points. I can adjust in one plain at top, and a
perpendicular plain at the bottom. These can be
adjusted both to get a nice, plumb jig post, and also
pulls out any twist pretty well. I also applied a
similar technique for the cross piece, this time,
though, I used two threaded rods, which I adjust
differentially to get any twist out. If you (or
anybody else) is interested, I can perhaps arrange to
have some pictures put on Hovan's home page.
The obvious follow up question is "why not just use
straight steel?" Good idea. I chose not too, however,
as I thought that wood would make it easier to attach
things and such like. No doubt that steel would be
straighter though, and more dimensionally stable over
the long haul.
Hope this helps...regards...
Terry in Calgary
S/N 24414
"Prepping VS Part for Priming"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | walsh(at)cpeedy.ENET.dec.com |
I think Bill Phillips got confused between us and r.a.h (shudder). Bill
posted a few notes over there and was promptly attacked. Hey Bill, you
should listen to your wife.
Serious Vortec question: If the engine puts out 200hp and I wanted to
derate it to say.....oh 170hp, what rpm would I be using for takeoff?
This would assume a CS prop which can redline the engine on the ground.
If I took this same 170hp and throttled back to "75%" (about 127hp), what
kind of rpm would I be seeing? I am thinking in terms of pilot comfort.
I would not like to fly around all day at 4500 or so rpm.
thanks
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael C. Gamble" <mgamble(at)chiba.netxn.com> |
------ =_NextPart_000_01BB48B4.E1323DE0
Harry:
When?
Mick
----------
From: Harry Paine[SMTP:ix3.ix.netcom.com!HPair(at)matronics.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 22, 1996 1:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Merced, Ca BBQ
>Does anyone have any details on the annual RV BBQ held in Bakersfield
>during the Merced Fly-in? Is it open to builders as well as flyers?
>Any help would be appreciated.
>Ed Cole RV6A 24430
>ecole(at)ix.netcom.com
>
>Ed & everyone..............
Was in bakoland 1 hour ago. Talked to John Harmon... and the BBQ is open to
anyone with... I think $5.00 per person (price subject to change without
notice) plus drinks. They usually don't start serving Tri Tip till around
5:00 P.M.. to give time for people to fly in from Merced. Its very casual
and there are always lots of RV's to drool over.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | OrndorffG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: George and Becki moving |
Hi every one , just a quick note that Becki and I will be off line for a
couple of week during our move to Ft Worth Tx. Hope to be back on line in
June . If you have a question that will not wait call us at 817-439-3280.
keep up the good work....George Orndorff
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | frankv(at)pec.co.nz |
In <199605231624.LAA26870(at)iac1.ltec.net>, on 23 May 96 at 11:24 AM,
Bob Skinner said:
>>I hear about people keeping logs on their project and I think it is r
>>FAA. What type book do folks use?
I'm just writing mine up with a good old text editor on my PC. Any
reason not to do this?
I'm also curious as to how much detail people go into in their logs.
FWIW, I've put mine up on my WWW page.
Frank.
--
--------------------------------------------------------------------
frankv(at)pec.co.nz | "Knowledge=Power=Energy=Matter=Mass;
Frank van der Hulst | A good bookshop is just a genteel
Software Engineer | Black Hole that knows how to read".
PEC(NZ) Ltd (Cardax), Marton | Terry Pratchett, "Guards! Guards!"
http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/ |
--------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kelli Lewis/Michael Kosta <mikel(at)dimensional.com> |
>I hear about people keeping logs on their project and I think it is required by
>FAA. What type book do folks use? Is there one that is comercially avaliable?
>Any help will be appreciated.
>Working on RV4 HS.
Aerorecord has a neat little 6-ringed notebook with tabbed dividers,
construction note sheets including places to have closure inspections noted
and a place for photographs. I don't remember what they cost but I bet they
know. Oh, here it is: builders log $29.95.
Aerorecord
1416 Daphne Drive
Willits, CA
95490
Michael Kosta
mikel(at)dimensional.com
RV-4 2860
Fly By July: I'm getting MY log polished up for the inspection (soon):-`
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rwoodard(at)lawyernet.com |
| Subject: | Jig Construction |
RV>Another idea that I think has a lot of merit is to make your own 4x4's. I
RV>saw a fuselage jig that was constructed in this manner. The builder had the
RV>lumber yard rip 4x8 foot sheets of 3/4" plywood into 4" strips and glued and
RV>screwed them togther. When dry, he took them back and had them planed. He
RV>had a really nice and sturdy fuselage jig. This would work good for the
RV>wing jig. You could make the uprights any length you want by staggering
RV>appropriate lengths. You could do the same with the horizontal cross piece
RV>as well. A plywood jig would probably be as stable as steel with the added
RV>advantage of easily being able to attach various items. Bob
I built my H-jig by building a beam out of 3/4" plywood glued and
screwed together. I've got a drawing I'd be happy to share with anyone
who's interested. It's pretty simple, but sometimes a picture's worth a
thousand words. I'm still using 4 x 4's for my end-posts, but there's
no reason you couldn't use plywood if you couldn't find decent 4 x's.
For anyone who's interested, please send me your snail mail address via
private e-mail.
Best regards,
Rod Woodard
RWoodard(at)lawyernet.com
RV-8, #80033
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BARNES_ERIC(at)Tandem.COM |
t mean anything)anC4U,S4@4W1A;F1A| Subject: | Oshkosh Events, Skystruck class |
I have two questions I'd appreciate some advice on: I'll be at Oshkosh
for the first time this year (July 31st to August 4th) - what RV related
events will be held there, and how do I sign up?
Also, Van's isn't having another building class until November. They
suggested Skystruck Aviation's class at Oshkosh. Does anyone have their
phone number, and/or experience with this class? (It's been 12 years
since I've done any sheetmetal work.)
Thanks in advance,
Eric
Barnes_Eric(at)tandem.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike & Shirley Hiscock" <shiscock(at)fox.nstn.ca> |
> I receive a magazine named Professional Pilot. They often do
> reader surveys on different topics. One such topic is avionics.
> The readers who use their radios almost every day are probably a
> pretty good unbiased source of info. In the survey published in the
> Aug 94 issue they asked user to rate avionics reliability.
I've never heard of some of the companies mentioned. Northstar? Universal
Nav? How are their prices? Considering the name Professional Pilot, are
these radios for heavy iron only?
Some of the companies such as Universal make integrated flight management
systems, probably not required in an RV. Having said that we'll see one
in OSH. The magazine deals with mainly corporate operators from Bonanzas
to Gulfstreams, a real cross section. Unforetunately, I put the mag in
the recycling bin after I sent the electrons; however, they do these
surveys frequently. If you or anyone else is interested, the next time I
receive a survey I can post the relevant data.
mike hiscock
shiscock(at)fox.nstn.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com (William Costello ) |
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Events, Skystruck class |
You wrote:
>
>I have two questions I'd appreciate some advice on: I'll be at
>Oshkosh for the first time this year (July 31st to August 4th) - what
>RV related events will be held there, and how do I sign up?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Eric
>Barnes_Eric(at)tandem.com
>
There were two 'RV-related events' at Oshkosh last summer -- demo rides
and the RV group dinner.
If you have NOT had a ride in an RV, you can sign up for a demo ride
given by one of Van's people. If you want a demo ride, I suggest you
go straight to Van's 'tent booth' as soon as you get there and sign up,
since the slots go pretty fast. While at the tent you can sign up and
pay for the dinner too. Don't know what night it will be on this year.
Probably Saturday.
Oops, I forgot to mention that Van holds a couple of RV forums during
the week in one of the many large forum tents provided for that. You
don't sign up for these -- just show up as early as possible for a
seat.
Hope this helps all of you who are going to Oshkosh for the first time.
Best regards,
Bill Costello
bcos(at)ix.netcom.com
--
___ _____________________________
\ \ _ _ / /
\ /? \ / \ / Bill Costello Chicago \
X-*#####*******......./ N97WC (reserved) /
o/\ \ \_\ \ RV-6 on left elev. \
\__\ \ bcos(at)ix.netcom.com /
\____________________________\
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com (Michael McGee) |
| Subject: | Re: Bill Phillips |
>REGARDING Bill Phillips
>
>Am I missing sumptin? Your progress reports have been very interesting and
>informative. They are factual and succinct. I have not seen a complaint
>referring to your technical details as chatter. Please keep us informed as you
>experiment. As you can see there is much interest (and controversy) about
>alternative engines. Replying privately may be and answer for one person but
>could be educational/informative for a 100 others.
>-Elon
>ormsby1(at)llnl.gov
>
>
ABSOLUTELY!!!
Your's is the first thread I look for when I dial in. All the numbers you
show us really made this builder appreciate your efforts and attention to
detail.
Please continue to report your what you are doing to us.
Thanks again,
Mike McGee, sn23596
jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Logs and chat. |
Don,
I guess that you can use just about what ever you want. I know one guy that
had a leather bound, gold engraved cover for his log. That ain't my style!!
I used a spiral bound note book, had a col. for date, then one line for what
I was working on, and the end of the line had a col for start and end time.
I kept it to the nearest 1/4 of an hour.
As for pictures, I read some where that recommended them with you in it, at
various stages of the construction. Said it helped show that you were doing
the work, in case you got an iron ass for inspector. I just had my wife
take the picture, then scotch taped it in the log at that stage of
construction. Over all I have about 30 pictures in the log. But, the
inspect. that did mine didn't even open the log. He did show me his
pictures of his rattlesnakes!! His hobby- catching rattlers to sell to be
milked!! Yuck and double yuck!!
One thing for people in small towns. Here, the newspaper thought it was
absolutely remarkable that some one was building an airplane. They did 3
full page spreads on it, two while under construction and one after finished
(the reporter went up with me). Plus 4 clubs in town asked me to give a
talk about it and flying in general. I did it, not for the ego trip, but to
lend support to the Young Eagles program of EAA. I figured what ever we can
do to help the decline of general aviation is good for the future. Needless
to say, I also do the Young Eagle thing here in town.
John D
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
Tim Lewis;
Congratulations on the promotion to 0-4. We always considered that as the
first really competitive selection. Now, is it still that you spend the
first three months of the raise for the promotion party?
As for the radios, I can't do anything but strongly recommend the Mitchell
MK 11. It's small, it's cheap, it works. Can't say anything about the
support, 'cause it's never been down. But Vans talked it up big time a few
years back. If it breaks for any reason other than being run over by a
truck or so, send it back, $45.00, and they replace the whole thing. I'm
running mine with a coat hanger ant in the rt tip, and I've talked to people
125 miles on the other side of the plane and it was as clear as any you
could find. I think they have gone up about 150-200.00 since I bought it,
but so have the others.
John D
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Japundza <bob(at)holli.com> |
| Subject: | Speaking of events |
Seaking of OSH, I thought it might be nice if all the regulars here got
a chance to meet face-to-face. I think it would be pretty cool if we
all got together and had lunch or dinner somewhere and passed the BS
about RV's and the internet.
concurr, anyone?
Bob Japundza
Installing rv-6 instrument panel
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Japundza <bob(at)holli.com> |
Does anyone have any panel drawings in AutoCAD or MicroStation?
I'd like to see them. If you could, zip them and attach to email
(bob(at)holli.com). Id prefer them in the .dwg format.
thanx
Bob Japundza
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JIM SCHMIDT <JIM.SCHMIDT(at)mail.mei.com> |
EAA sells one I believe but I was advised by
Ben Owen at EAA to just keep a notebook and
plenty of pictures. Keep Date hours spent
and what you did.
>>> Don Goodin
05/22/96 08:52pm >>>
I hear about people keeping logs on their
project and I think it is required by
FAA. What type book do folks use? Is there
one that is comercially avaliable?
Any help will be appreciated.
Working on RV4 HS.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | billphil(at)ix.netcom.com (William Phillips ) |
Y
>
>Serious Vortec question: If the engine puts out 200hp and I wanted to
>derate it to say.....oh 170hp, what rpm would I be using for takeoff?
>This would assume a CS prop which can redline the engine on the
>ground.
>
You could do it a couple of ways. From the dyno runs on this engine,
170 hp occurs at 3200 rpm with a propeller rpm of 2240. The curves I
have here at home don't go below 3000rpm. At 3000 rpm the bhp to the
prop is 167 hp.
>If I took this same 170hp and throttled back to "75%" (about 127hp),
>what
>kind of rpm would I be seeing? I am thinking in terms of pilot
>comfort.
>I would not like to fly around all day at 4500 or so rpm.
You might consider using a smaller engine with less weight if that's
all the hp you need. However, I don't know what your design criteria
are. Making a rough estimate of engine torque down around 2200 rpm at
280 ft-lb, I get 117 hp. So that's sort of the range you would be
looking at, i.e. 2200 to 2400 rpm.
Best Wishes, Bill
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Logs and chat. |
>As for pictures, I read some where that recommended them with you in it, at
>various stages of the construction. Said it helped show that you were doing
>the work, in case you got an iron ass for inspector. I just had my wife
>take the picture, then scotch taped it in the log at that stage of
I regret taking pictures of me building my RV. I never realized how bald I
was getting until the picture of me with my head down working on the RV was
developed. Oh well, when I look in the mirror, I still see hair.
> One thing for people in small towns. Here, the newspaper thought it was
>absolutely remarkable that some one was building an airplane. They did 3
>full page spreads on it, two while under construction and one after finished
>(the reporter went up with me). Plus 4 clubs in town asked me to give a
>talk about it and flying in general.
>John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
Same here, John. Small town, etc. As much as I like to promote aviation
and RV's, I thought it prudent not to advertise with pictures and discussion
of the shop, tools, etc. Lexington, Nebraska was blessed with the arrival
of a IBP, "World's largest producer of fresh meat" cattle packing plant. We
now have the influx of 3,000 people, most from way down south, and our crime
rate has increased four-fold with a lot of theft, drugs, etc. I thought it
best to keep a low profile.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)ltec.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ecole(at)ix.netcom.com (EDWARD COLE) |
You wrote:
>
>In <199605231624.LAA26870(at)iac1.ltec.net>, on 23 May 96 at 11:24 AM,
> Bob Skinner said:
>>>I hear about people keeping logs on their project and I think it is
r
>>>FAA. What type book do folks use?
>
>I'm just writing mine up with a good old text editor on my PC. Any
>reason not to do this?
>
>I'm also curious as to how much detail people go into in their logs.
>FWIW, I've put mine up on my WWW page.
>
>Frank.
>
>--
>--------------------------------------------------------------------
>frankv(at)pec.co.nz | "Knowledge=Power=Energy=Matter=Mass;
>Frank van der Hulst | A good bookshop is just a genteel
>Software Engineer | Black Hole that knows how to read".
>PEC(NZ) Ltd (Cardax), Marton | Terry Pratchett, "Guards! Guards!"
>http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/ |
>--------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
For a builders log I printed up some forms using "Excel". I have
columns for DATE, TIME STARTED, TIME FINISHED, HOURS, CUM HOURS,
DESCRIPTION OF WORK DONE. I also take pictures along the way and keep
them in an inexpensive album.(for myself and the FAA)
Ed Cole #24430
ecole(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | sierchio(at)groucho.boi.noaa.gov |
| Subject: | Paint spray gun kit |
Hi Listers,
I'm putting together an order from Avery and saw their "Newstripe -
Paint Spray Gun Kit". I like the idea of not having to spend time
cleaning up all the time.
Has anyone out there tried this gun? What's the verdict? Thanks in
advance.
Mike
Tooling Up and still trying to decide between 6/6A.
====================================================================
Mike Sierchio NIFC-National Weather Service
sierchio(at)groucho.boi.noaa.gov 3833 S. Development Ave., Bldg 3807
(208) 334-9824 Boise, ID 83705-5354
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas N. Martin" <103212.65(at)CompuServe.COM> |
In an earlier message regarding my first year of flght I had mentioned an engine
failure at 60 hours. A number of people have requested information about the
incident.
It was Sept 21, 95 (I will never forget that date!)
I have a RV-4 with a fuel injected 0-360, 180hp, turning a fixed pitch
warnke prop
Up to that time I had been having some problems with the mixture on the engine
being too rich. The injector had been back to the shop once and recalibrated and
seemed to be OK. This was a "rebuilt" bendix injector and was supposedly in good
repair.
The day of the incident I was having problems with the idle cut off. I
made some minor adjustments to the linkage and then went for a test flight. The
run up was normal and the take off and climb routine.
When I reached altitude I noticed that I was not able to lean the engine
properly and when I reduced power it ran VERY rough under 2000rpm
I had not left the airport area and returned to the circuit. On downwind I
informed the unicom that I might have a problem when I reduced power to land.
On base I reduced power to 1800 and applied full flaps. The engine was running
very rough and I was reluctant to make any further corrections to mixture. As
many of you know who have flown RVs' with fixed pitch props they will not slow
down enough to land at any speed other than with the engine at idle.
I pulled the throttle back and the engine quit. There was no time to restart the
engine. All the training and things that I had read said to fly the airplane and
I was focused on that. The speed on base was 90mph and the prop was still
windmilling.
I was high and fast and as I slipped a little and dropped the speed to
85
the prop stopped. Now this is not something that I was use to seeing!
At this point I was on final and too high by a long ways. It was a 5000 foot
runway and based on earlier flights I felt that I would be landing long and off
the end.
What I had not accounted for was the sink rate. I had flight tested sink rates
at higher altitudes at engine idle and thought that this would be similiar. Not
so. At idle my prop is still pulling a lot. The airplane came down a lot faster
then I thought it would and with some side slipping I landed about one third of
the way down the runway. It was a very good landing if I might say so and
certainly my most quiet.
Now this whole thing happened very quickly with no time to really think
things through. There was no time to do all the saftey things, like securing
objects, switchs off, radio stuff, etc, etc. I just flew the plane. There was no
time for fear but when I climbed out of the plane my legs were shaking.
Well what was the cause. The injector was removed and sent back to the
shop. It appears that when it was "rebuilt" the main diaphram had not been
replaced. This had failed causing the engine to flood at low power settings.
Since that time I have not had any further problems with the injector and now
have a total of 125 hours.
Things to remember. These airplanes sink a LOT faster with a stopped prop then
with an engine at idle. This is important for you to remember if ever faced with
a similiar situation. And most important, fly the plane and forget the rest of
the stuff. This is one remarkable little airplane, Sorry if this message went on
but you asked for it!
Tom Martin
ontario canada
RV-4 the RaVen
________________________________________________________________________________
> Don, I used legal pads. I wrote down the date, the time spent and what I
> did. I just paper clipped them together.
Bob,
That's how I started my log. I was just bored one night and decided to write something
quick.
There are three people working on the plane (my brother and I with my dad helping
from time to time), with
the MSAccess database logbook, I can see by structure and/or person as to how much
time everything takes (i
know get a life).
It is also interesting to see how much quicker we were to build the second wing
versus the first.
don mack
donmack@super-highway.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Hartmann <hartmann(at)sound.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint spray gun kit |
At 16:51 5/24/96 GMT, you wrote:
>
>I'm putting together an order from Avery and saw their "Newstripe -
>Paint Spray Gun Kit". I like the idea of not having to spend time
>cleaning up all the time.
>
>Has anyone out there tried this gun? What's the verdict? Thanks in
>advance.
>
The Newstripe from Avery is what I have been using to do most of my priming.
It works fine for Variprime, but I wouldnt use it to do any finish painting.
It does have an idiosyncrasy with the paint nozzle. To get decent coverage
without too much overspray, the paint nozzle must be pushed ALL the way up
into the top part of the gun. It tends to work loose (down) a little, paint
gets into its socket, and if you don't clean that part well enough it wont
seat properly the next time. Not much of a problem, just something to watch
for.
The forward clip that holds the paper cup to the gun broke off about the
time I was finishing up the empennage. I just made a new clip out of scrap
.025 and it works fine again. The best part is that you can mix very small
batches of paint in 5 Oz Dixie cups, put the small cup into the large paper
cup, attach to the gun, and paint just a few things. Works great!
Cleanup is just shoot about 1/2 Oz Acetone through the gun from a small
Dixie cup, wipe down the outside with Acetone on a paper towel, put the used
paper towel, and paper cup in the trash and you're done.
Bottom line. I like it.
- Mike
hartmann(at)sound.net
http://www.sound.net/~hartmann
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ecole(at)ix.netcom.com (EDWARD COLE) |
| Subject: | Re: Paint spray gun kit |
You wrote:
>
>At 16:51 5/24/96 GMT, you wrote:
>>
>>I'm putting together an order from Avery and saw their "Newstripe -
>>Paint Spray Gun Kit". I like the idea of not having to spend time
>>cleaning up all the time.
>>
>>Has anyone out there tried this gun? What's the verdict? Thanks in
>>advance.
>>
>
>The Newstripe from Avery is what I have been using to do most of my
priming.
>It works fine for Variprime, but I wouldnt use it to do any finish
painting.
>It does have an idiosyncrasy with the paint nozzle. To get decent
coverage
>without too much overspray, the paint nozzle must be pushed ALL the
way up
>into the top part of the gun. It tends to work loose (down) a little,
paint
>gets into its socket, and if you don't clean that part well enough it
wont
>seat properly the next time. Not much of a problem, just something to
watch
>for.
>
>The forward clip that holds the paper cup to the gun broke off about
the
>time I was finishing up the empennage. I just made a new clip out of
scrap
>.025 and it works fine again. The best part is that you can mix very
small
>batches of paint in 5 Oz Dixie cups, put the small cup into the large
paper
>cup, attach to the gun, and paint just a few things. Works great!
>
>Cleanup is just shoot about 1/2 Oz Acetone through the gun from a
small
>Dixie cup, wipe down the outside with Acetone on a paper towel, put
the used
>paper towel, and paper cup in the trash and you're done.
>
>Bottom line. I like it.
>
>- Mike
>hartmann(at)sound.net
>http://www.sound.net/~hartmann
>
>
I found the "paper cup" gun totally worthless. I spilled more variprime
than I sprayed. When the cup finally fell off on its own and splattered
variprime over my parts, I gave up and bought a $25.00 touch up gun
that works very well. I bought mine at a tools store, but have seen the
same gun for the same price at Harbor Freight.
If anyone wants to try the Newstripe gun, you're welcome to mine.
You can have it for $20.00 and I'll pay the shipping. It is still in
the Averybox with the paper cup and instructions.
Email me personaaly at ecole(at)ix.netcom.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com (Doug Weiler) |
| Subject: | Re: engine failure |
Tom:
At Northwest Airlines, at the top of all of our emergency checklists, in big
bold letters are the words: FLY THE AIRPLANE.
The narrative of your engine failure confirms the importance of those three
simple words. Well done!
Doug
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
= Doug Weiler, pres. MN Wing, Van's AirForce, RV-4 in progress, N722DW
= 347 Krattley Lane
= Hudson, WI 54016
= 715-386-1239
= email: dougweil(at)mail.pressenter.com
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | walsh(at)cpeedy.ENET.dec.com |
re Bill Phillips
3,000rpm making 167hp. My car runs 3k rpm on the highway and that is
pretty comfortable. 167 hp is still 7 more than an O-320. If I were to
use 3k rpm for takeoff and climb to 7500 feet, I would be making 75% of
167hp, about the same as a Lycoming. That should allow me to true about
180-190mph with the engine developing 62.5% of it's rated (200) horsepower.
I would be giving up 40 lbs of useful load and may have to account for a
forward CG shift. Of course, I get to save about $10k up front and another
$5k easy at the first overhaul. If I were confident of a long life at 62%
power, it might be an interesting alternative.
Good luck
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | billphil(at)ix.netcom.com (William Phillips ) |
| Subject: | Re: engine failure |
Tom: I've had two engine failures in my life too. You did exactly
what you needed to do, that's obvious. After an engine failure at low
altitude you don't have time to secure everything. You're rattled,
upset, and all you can think of is getting back on the ground safely.
The last thing I would ever think of is to pull out a check list and
start going through some procedure like that although if you could do
it, it might improve your probability to survive....
No, an engine failure is a terrifying experience...the sound changes,
the vibration goes away, in your case the prop stopped. All kind of
other things can happen quickly that you aren't prepared for. You just
have to FLY THE AIRPLANE, and you did.
Job well done!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terryg(at)SceptreCal.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM |
| Subject: | Re: Paint spray gun kit |
Mike -- you wrote...
>I'm putting together an order from Avery and saw their
>"Newstripe - Paint Spray Gun Kit". I like the idea of
>not having to spend time cleaning up all the time.
I did the same thing, initially, and used it once, and
now have purchased a $50 CDN touch up gun. 'Nuff said.
The touch up gun is a little more sophisticated than
the Newstripe, but a lot better results, I think.
Clean up is really no problem. I use garden variety
lacquer thinner to clean up Endura primer, and it
doesn't take more than five minutes.
I think I will go with one of the HVLPs before I'm
finished. There supposed to give you better results
still.
If you decide to go with the Newstripe, you want to
make sure that you get UNWAXED cups. I believe the wax
can come off and mix with the material that you're
spraying.
Hope these comments help...regards...
Terry in Calgary
S/N 24414
"Prepping VS Parts for Priming"
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint spray gun kit |
I also have one of these paint guns. I believe it was also called a
"Docker" paint gun at one time. They will not provide as nice a paint
job as a "real" gun but seem adequate for priming. The biggest advantage
is the clean up.
You can overcome the "cup falling off" routine one of two ways: Always
put a large rubber band around the gun top and cup (that's what I do); or,
pop-rivet a baby food jar lid onto the gun and use baby food jars for
painting.
One problem I continue to have with my gun using the Courtaulds primer is
primer collecting just in front of the nozzle and eventually falling off,
or worse, blowing off onto whatever I'm painting. I am constantly wiping
off the front of the gun with a paper towel while I paint. Anyone else
have this problem? Do you have a differnt solution to the problem?
> I found the "paper cup" gun totally worthless. I spilled more variprime
> than I sprayed. When the cup finally fell off on its own and splattered
> variprime over my parts, I gave up and bought a $25.00 touch up gun
> that works very well. I bought mine at a tools store, but have seen the
> same gun for the same price at Harbor Freight.
>
> If anyone wants to try the Newstripe gun, you're welcome to mine.
> You can have it for $20.00 and I'll pay the shipping. It is still in
> the Averybox with the paper cup and instructions.
> Email me personaaly at ecole(at)ix.netcom.com
>
>
Doug Medema, primed the top skin for my second wing last night. RV-6A.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Terryg(at)SceptreCal.CCMAIL.CompuServe.COM |
| Subject: | Paint spray gun kit (Chatter) |
>I found the "paper cup" gun totally worthless.
>I spilled more variprime than I sprayed. When
>the cup finally fell off on its own and splattered
>variprime over my parts, I gave up and bought
>a $25.00 touch up gun that works very well.
>I bought mine at a tools store, but have seen
>the same gun for the same price at Harbor Freight.
>If anyone wants to try the Newstripe gun,
>you're welcome to mine. You can have it for $20.00
>and I'll pay the shipping. It is still
>in the Averybox with the paper cup and instructions.
Ed -- based on that stellar endorsement, sounds like
you might be willing to PAY someone $20 to take if off
your hands! :-)
TCG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | chinkley(at)ix.netcom.com (Curtis R. Hinkley ) |
| Subject: | Pneumatic rivet squeezer question |
We are working on our empennages and have just completed assembling
the rear spars of the horizontal stabilizer. We used a pneumatic
squeezer to dimple the HS-603PP spar flanges, this saved considerable
time once we figured out how to properly (best guess) shim the dimple
dies.
The question we have is regarding how many spacers are people using
under the dies. With the 3/32 dies in the squeezer and the ram fully
extended there is .035 clearance between the surface of the dies. We
started out with a .060 washer under one of the dies and did a couple
test holes in some .032 scrap. The squeezer left a big circle around
the hole and the rivet head was .05 to .010 below the surface. With
this setup the squeezer had - .057 negative clearance or interference.
We then did some test holes on some .016 AL scrap with the same
results. So we made up making some .016 and .020 washers to go with the
.060 and .032 washers that came with the squeezer. After some testing
we ended up using a .016 washer on the .016 AL which gave us .013
interference and produced a very good dimpled hole. On the .032 AL we
used a .032 washer which produced .029 interference and a good dimpled
hole.
How much negative clearance / interference is every one else using.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)Op.Net> |
I am living in the Philadelphia, Pa. area and have been in love with the RV
series of aircraft for years. Since, building one is not practical, I have
decided to purchase one that is already built, with enough hours to prove to
me that it is a reliable aircraft. I am a VFR only pilot who loves to fly
long cross country trips [like Phila.-to-San Francisco], and I would love to
learn to do light aerobatics.
Where can I get a Demo ride in this area? And who has a well-built RV-4 for
sale? OK, guys...HELP ME. Thanks
P.S. Do I need to make up a nickname for myself?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com (William Costello ) |
| Subject: | Re: Logs and chat. |
You wrote:
>
>I regret taking pictures of me building my RV. I never realized how
>bald I was getting until the picture of me with my head down working
>on the RV was developed. Oh well, when I look in the mirror, I still
>see hair.
>
Yeah, and I want to know who snuck in and re-touched my pictures with
that pot belly? Sure ain't mine! :))
Bill Costello
--
___ _____________________________
\ \ _ _ / /
\ /? \ / \ / Bill Costello Chicago \
X-*#####*******......./ N97WC (reserved) /
o/\ \ \_\ \ RV-6 on left elev. \
\__\ \ bcos(at)ix.netcom.com /
\____________________________\
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com (William Costello ) |
| Subject: | Re: Paint spray gun kit |
You wrote:
>
>Hi Listers,
>
>I'm putting together an order from Avery and saw their "Newstripe -
>Paint Spray Gun Kit". I like the idea of not having to spend time
>cleaning up all the time.
>
>Has anyone out there tried this gun? What's the verdict? Thanks in
>advance.
>
>Mike
>
>Tooling Up and still trying to decide between 6/6A.
>
>====================================================================
>Mike Sierchio NIFC-National Weather Service
>sierchio(at)groucho.boi.noaa.gov 3833 S. Development Ave., Bldg 3807
>(208) 334-9824 Boise, ID 83705-5354
>
I've used it for my empennage so far and it works pretty well for
priming in my opinion. Of course, for me, painting is a pain in the
_ _ _ no matter how you do it, but it sure is nice just to throw away
the cups when you are done.
Sometimes if you have to put the same cup on the 'gun' several times,
it can get chewed up and you need to throw a piece of duct tape around
the whole she-bang, but that is no problem and duct tape is cheap.
When putting a lot of paint in the cup, it gets a little heavy, and I
put a piece of tape around it for safe keeping. Doesn't look so good,
but don't take any pictures at that time!
Regards,
Bill Costello
bcos(at)ix.netcom.com
--
___ _____________________________
\ \ _ _ / /
\ /? \ / \ / Bill Costello Chicago \
X-*#####*******......./ N97WC (reserved) /
o/\ \ \_\ \ RV-6 on left elev. \
\__\ \ bcos(at)ix.netcom.com /
\____________________________\
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com (Michael McGee) |
| Subject: | engine parameters-was re:Bill Phillips |
>I would be giving up 40 lbs of useful load and may have to account for a
>forward CG shift.
Easily made up for by the lack of a 35 pound constant speed prop.
The forward cg shift helps balance the camping gear / golf clubs / ski
equipment behind the seats ( no not all at once ).
Mike McGee, sn23596
jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com (Michael McGee) |
| Subject: | Re: Panel drawings |
>Does anyone have any panel drawings in AutoCAD or MicroStation?
>
>I'd like to see them. If you could, zip them and attach to email
>(bob(at)holli.com). Id prefer them in the .dwg format.
>
>thanx
>Bob Japundza
>
>
I'd like to get one of those as well if they're available in *.dwg.
Thanks in advance
Mike McGee
jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jmpcrftr(at)teleport.com (Michael McGee) |
>
>As for the radios, I can't do anything but strongly recommend the Mitchell
>MK 11. It's small, it's cheap, it works. Can't say anything about the
>support, 'cause it's never been down.
Ditto for my MX-300 in my C-150.
A 760 ch, flip flop nav com for $1279 plus shipping from Chief Aircraft.
They will sell you a new tray if you can't find one in a bone yard where
there should be plenty. Also, you can order them with a built in CDI and
marker beacon. Three year warranty.
It isn't as pretty as the $3400 King KX-155 installation that I wanted, you
do the math, I can buy LOTS more airplane gas.
In my case, I had a Cessna RT-328 and the installation consisted of slide it
out, slide in the MX-300, turn on the master and ask unicom for a radio check.
Loud and clear.
Mike McGee
sn23596
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint spray gun kit |
> I think I will go with one of the HVLPs before I'm
> finished. There supposed to give you better results
> still.
> Terry in Calgary
Terry, I tried the "paper cup" spray gun from Avery and sent it back. The
$30-$40.00 touch up guns are much better. I primed the inside of my first
RV with one of these. I did buy a Croix HVLP with the idea of painting my
own airplane. I painted the instrument panel and interior and then decided
to have the plane painted by a professional. He, too, used a Croix. I
helped prep the plane. We couln't get the Croix to put down the paint
without various degrees of "orange peel". I've visited with several
painters and the general consenses is that it's difficult if not impossible
to get the kind of paint job most people want with the HVLP. Some have
suggested putting in more reducer to get better flow out, etc., but I'm a
firm believer in following the manufacturers recommendations. They
manufacture paint, I don't.
If you run across anyone that can use a HVLP and equal the results
obtained with conventional spraying, try to pick his brain and find out his
tips and suggestions and pass them on to us. I'd like to paint the RV I'm
building now, myself, and I'd like to use the Croix. Even though I didn't
get to paint my plane with my Croix, I did prime and paint my 2 story house,
a fuel truck and the old steam locomotive at our town's Historical Society.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)ltec.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Paint spray gun kit |
Mike;
I don't know if it is a Newstripe touch up gun, but the one I had, from
Avery, did a much better job of dropping cups of paint, spilling paint out
of the front or back of the cup if you tilted it, and in general making far
more to clean up than a reg touch up gun. After about 4 or 5 of these, I
put it back in the box and it is still there collecting dust. If you want
to really try your patience, I will be glad to ship it to you for the
postage. But I assume absolutely no liability for the damage it may do to
your language and character after you have experienced it's nefarious actions.
John D
>Has anyone out there tried this gun? What's the verdict? Thanks in
>advance.
>
>Mike
John Darby RV6 N61764 flying
johnd@our-town.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com (William Costello ) |
| Subject: | Re: Speaking of events |
You wrote:
>
>Seaking of OSH, I thought it might be nice if all the regulars here
got
>a chance to meet face-to-face. I think it would be pretty cool if we
>all got together and had lunch or dinner somewhere and passed the BS
>about RV's and the internet.
>
>concurr, anyone?
>
>Bob Japundza
>Installing rv-6 instrument panel
>
Sounds great to me. I will probably arrive sometime Thursday and be
there till mid Sunday afternoon. Would be nice to get some mug shots
of some of 'the group'.
Bill Costello
--
___ _____________________________
\ \ _ _ / /
\ /? \ / \ / Bill Costello Chicago \
X-*#####*******......./ N97WC (reserved) /
o/\ \ \_\ \ RV-6 on left elev. \
\__\ \ bcos(at)ix.netcom.com /
\____________________________\
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Panel drawings |
I have .DWG drawing of slider 6A panel. I tried to attach it but it didn't
seem to post (I didn't get it back on the system). E-mail me directly and
I'll give my address so you can send me a self addressed stamped mailer and
3.5" floppy.
N1GV
Vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Bennett" <bennett(at)healey.com.au> |
| Subject: | Fus jig available in Sydney |
To Aussie RV6 builders within reach of Sydney, I have turned my
fuselage out of the jig. Contact me privately if you know of anyone
who will need a jig soon. I would like to recover the cost of
materials (solid oregon - good jig) but I'm a soft touch.......
BTW, the fus looks GREAT up the right way.
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
Fuselage out of jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Bennett" <bennett(at)healey.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint spray gun kit |
I've used one of these guns for priming emp, wings and fus. It's
adequatefor priming, not finishing. Cleanup is a breeze. I have also
had the "drip on the clip" problem. It has gone away since I cleaned
up the atomiser nozzle - I suspect a bit of plastic flash causes the
cone to hit the nozzle. I wouldn't part with it.
Peter Bennett
Sydney Australia
Fus out of jig.
> I also have one of these paint guns. I believe it was also called a
> "Docker" paint gun at one time. They will not provide as nice a paint
> job as a "real" gun but seem adequate for priming. The biggest advantage
> is the clean up.
>
> You can overcome the "cup falling off" routine one of two ways: Always
> put a large rubber band around the gun top and cup (that's what I do); or,
> pop-rivet a baby food jar lid onto the gun and use baby food jars for
> painting.
>
> One problem I continue to have with my gun using the Courtaulds primer is
> primer collecting just in front of the nozzle and eventually falling off,
> or worse, blowing off onto whatever I'm painting. I am constantly wiping
> off the front of the gun with a paper towel while I paint. Anyone else
> have this problem? Do you have a differnt solution to the problem?
>
>
> > I found the "paper cup" gun totally worthless. I spilled more variprime
> > than I sprayed. When the cup finally fell off on its own and splattered
> > variprime over my parts, I gave up and bought a $25.00 touch up gun
> > that works very well. I bought mine at a tools store, but have seen the
> > same gun for the same price at Harbor Freight.
> >
> > If anyone wants to try the Newstripe gun, you're welcome to mine.
> > You can have it for $20.00 and I'll pay the shipping. It is still in
> > the Averybox with the paper cup and instructions.
> > Email me personaaly at ecole(at)ix.netcom.com
> >
> >
> Doug Medema, primed the top skin for my second wing last night. RV-6A.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | billphil(at)ix.netcom.com (William Phillips ) |
>
>I would be giving up 40 lbs of useful load and may have to account for
>a forward CG shift. Of course, I get to save about $10k up front and
>another $5k easy at the first overhaul. If I were confident of a long
>life at 62% power, it might be an interesting alternative.
>
>Good luck
>
>John
>
That's the way we look at it too. The Vortec may not be optimum but if
it's 80% as good as a Lycoming, only 1/3 to 1/2 the cost and it has a
reasonable useful life the compromise will be worth it to some people.
I don't know the answer to longevity or even if we will be successful.
But, I think we will, or I'd find another project. And, I'm not an
engine man so I'm learning each day too. We've had a lot of work this
week trying to tune the engine and that's part of why we haven't flown
yet. This project is more complicated than I thought initially
although the other guys expected most of the difficulty. I will post
this weeks results later today and tell the group about some of the
problems we've solved during the week. But, they are solved now and no
one else will have to walk down the path we went through this week. I
hope we will do the final tuning soon but our Tach. nosed over two
days ago and we might be waiting on UPS for another week before we can
finish tuning and fly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick_bot(at)enternet.com.au (Rick Bottiglieri) |
| Subject: | Re: RV Kit wanted in Australia |
Dose anyone know if there is any Kits for sale in Austraila, either not/part
built for sale.
You can contact me on the below address:
Rick.G. Bottiglieri
Reply Address:
Email : rick_bot(at)enternet.com.au
Postal: P.O Box 1111
Fitzroy North
Victoria Austrailia 3068
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
In the June issue of Kitplanes, Gulf Coast Avionics lists their email
address. I dropped them a note asking if they had advice on how to
become familiar enough with the available avionics in order to make
decent decisions.
They sent me their starter kit. It includes a fair amount of info
from Bendix King and several other vendors, including full-sized
peel & post stickers of some of the King equipment. It also includes
their catalog.
GCA is obviously trying to sell equipment plus their make-your-panel-for-
you service. The uncustomized quote for an RV-6 they included was a
total of $17,000! Why do I think I won't start out with a full panel?
Sigh.
Anyways, the info they sent me appears to be very useful. Other people
trying to get a feel for the available equipment and such might want to
drop them a note as well.
-Joe
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-591-1037
Showpage Software, Inc. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
6121 St. Croix Ave. N.
Golden Valley, Mn 55422 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rdunn(at)ionet.net (Ronald M. Dunn) |
I've tried to post messages several times and can't seem to get through.
This is a test message.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | daylight beneath the wheels - N517RL !!!!!! |
Hi guys...
It gives me great pleasure to let the list know that RV6A - N517RL is
no longer a virgin...three years and one month, and 2400hrs after
commencement, my baby left the nest.
At 1100 this morning she took to the air, piloted by Mark Frederick
who flew in to Ellington Field from Austin to "Do the Deed" - Thanks
Mark !
First pass was just one circuit as one jug got a bit too hot - so the
mixture was enriched a bit then - off again!!! - Yup... looks good.
We have an old 150HP 0-320 and C/S prop - the plane climbs like a
proverbial homesick angel at 100 mph, and we saw 185 A/S on downwind.
at 24 square. As the builder, it was of course necessary for me to go
up with Mark for a few turns around the pattern to check out engine
operating parameters and.... all looked real nice (I think).
I hope that the wind doesn't change or I might be stuck with this
stupid S##t-eating grin for ever!
Thanks to all who helped with the project, notably Greg Bordelon, Bill
Manak, and of course My great Wife, Joyce - also thanks to Van - what
a plane!!!!!
See - build a bit each day and it finally happens!!
Rob - (see you at Oshkosh) - Lee, av8r(at)hic.net - N517RL - FLYING
RV6A!!!!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Immelmann(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Bill Phillips |
>making 167hp. My car runs 3k rpm on the highway and that is
>pretty comfortable. 167 hp is still 7 more than an O-320. If I were to
>use 3k rpm for takeoff and climb to 7500 feet, I would be making 75% of
>167hp, about the same as a Lycoming. That should allow me to true about
>180-190mph with the engine developing 62.5% of it's rated (200) horsepower.
>
>I would be giving up 40 lbs of useful load and may have to account for a
>forward CG shift. Of course, I get to save about $10k up front and another
>$5k easy at the first overhaul. If I were confident of a long life at 62%
>power, it might be an interesting alternative.
>
>Good luck
>
>John
Just a thought - but why not do it the way Steve Whittman did the 215 Olds
engine in his Tailwind. Invert it, dry sump it and run it direct drive with a
bell housing ( or somthing like it ) for the prop bearing. If you run a
slightly shorter than normal 3 blade prop, you could turn it up around 3k rpm
without getting too loud. It would save the weight, cost and complexity of a
reduction drive. You could use an updraft aircraft carb for mixture control
and a flop tube in the sump would insure oil pressure for aero.
It seems to me that by limiting the rpms, the engine would wear less and also
be a lot less likely to break a crank.
If you think you need more horses, you could get radical and mount up some
sort of crank driven supercharger.
What do Ya think?
Ed in Northridge
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Curt Reimer <Curt_Reimer(at)MBnet.MB.CA> |
Anyone have any experience with the VAL com radios? A freind picked one
up for <$500 at OSH a couple of years ago and it has worked just fine.
I'm thinking of doing the same this year, but I'd like to get some more
feedback, if it's out there. I know you get what you pay for, but $1000 +
for a VHF tranciever is just plain gouging, IMHO.
regards,
Curt Reimer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pat McClung <pmc123(at)airmail.net> |
I seem to be covered up with messages from the same people going back
and forth but none of the messages I have sent ever show up. I'll be
curious to see if this shows up--
I sent a message several days ago giving details of a first flight in my
RV-6 but I haven't seen it..
Today, I received several dated this date so there doesn't appear to be
a backlog. Anybody have any ideas??? I tried to join the discussion on
drill sized for dimples, use of certain types of spray guns, avionics
install, etc, all of which I have had experience with during my
building projects but the Xmas Grinch or something seems to have gotten
them all.!!!
N3XM - - FLYING
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Archive Update & Web Search Engine... |
RV-Listers,
After two weeks of hard work, I am happy to announce that the complete
RV-List Archive files are now available and updated daily! I have also
written a very nice web search engine that turned out better than I could
have possibly hoped (I didn't really want to put too much time into the
coding of the engine, but in the end, I did and I think the results were
worth it).
I have also made a number of major updates to the RV-List web page including
all new AVI and MOV movies of Don Wentz's RV-6, ALL NEW high resolution
bitmaps of RVs (scaned with an HP 4c, in 24 bit color), and of course the
now regular Archive updates and New Search Engine.
Please check it all out and let me know what you think. I would be interested
in your experiences with the search engine. I've put a lot of time in to the
code to make it fast (17Mb is a lot of data to search through!), reliable,
and easy to use.
The RV-List Web Page is here-by officially announced and available for
browsing! You may add hyper-links to it and the Matronics homepage as
you see fit. The Matronics homepage can also be found with Yahoo.
The Matronics URL is:
http://www.matronics.com
The RV-List URL is:
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
Anonymous FTP access to the Archives:
ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/business/matronics
Enjoy.
Matt Dralle
RV-List Admin.
Matronics
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jcimino(at)jcimino.microserve.com (Jim Cimino) |
| Subject: | Re: Wanted: RV-4 |
As I've stated before on the list, there is a very nice RV-4 for sale in
Stroudsburg, Pennsylvanis. It has just over 100 hrs. TTSN on airframe and
engine. The builder has built one RV-4 before this one and is a retired
sheet metal shop owner. He is also an EAA Tech Advisor. His name is Jim
Banks (J.J.) and you can reach him at 717-421-4136.
> I am living in the Philadelphia, Pa. area and have been in love with the RV
>series of aircraft for years. Since, building one is not practical, I have
>decided to purchase one that is already built, with enough hours to prove to
>me that it is a reliable aircraft. I am a VFR only pilot who loves to fly
>long cross country trips [like Phila.-to-San Francisco], and I would love to
>learn to do light aerobatics.
>
>Where can I get a Demo ride in this area? And who has a well-built RV-4 for
>sale? OK, guys...HELP ME. Thanks
>
>P.S. Do I need to make up a nickname for myself?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rdunn(at)ionet.net (Ronald M. Dunn) |
1) Thanks to all the folks that responded to my test message.
2) I apoligize for mucking up the list my problems
3) What I really wanted was an answer to the following:
Lets suppose that I have what I thought was a finished part only to discover
that the rivet holes where not drilled to final size. When I drill them out
I will remove the rust preventor, be it alodine, anodizing, or just plane
primer.
So what do I do now? Dab a little primer in the new holes? Re-alodine?
Re-anodize?
Thanks in advance for your input.
Ron Dunn #80078
RV-8 > HS in jig
Broken Arrow, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
| Subject: | Oshkosh, radios, prices, chatter |
Hello again...
Question: is Oshkosh a good opportunity to get extra-good deals on
equipment? Any/all comments direct to me are welcome. (Use your
own judgement when replying to the list.)
Just a note for everyone waiting on a subkit -- I talked to Van's
yesterday. I initially was forced to put a 3-month hold on my wings,
as my wife and I thought we were going to move at the end of April.
Wings were due for production May 6, and they haven't arrived. I
had talked to someone at Van's towards the end of April to make sure
everything was all set.
Talked to the factory yesterday. Someone named "Bill" answered, so I'm
assuming it was Bill Benedict, general manager. He checked things, said
they were waiting for final payment. Final payment was *supposed* to be
charged to the credit card.
Guys -- if you have ordered a subkit, make *sure* you get final payment
in. If it's supposed to be billed to a credit card, I strongly suggest
that you call a week or two before production and ASK FOR BARBARA. She
appears to do all the billing there, and talking to anyone else might
be a mistake. (I didn't talk to her on this one.)
I'm not upset with Van's or anything -- these things are going to happen,
especially given the circumstances involved. I'm just letting you all know
so that you can take steps to cover your own schedules.
-Joe
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-591-1037
Showpage Software, Inc. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
6121 St. Croix Ave. N.
Golden Valley, Mn 55422 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: daylight beneath the wheels - N517RL !!!!!! |
| From: | snoopyar(at)usa.pipeline.com (Davi Howard) |
Good Job!!! Congrats!! one day I hope to wear that same grin!
--
See Ya! Davi
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)ammeterj.seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
>Anyone have any experience with the VAL com radios? A freind picked one
>up for <$500 at OSH a couple of years ago and it has worked just fine.
>I'm thinking of doing the same this year, but I'd like to get some more
>feedback, if it's out there. I know you get what you pay for, but $1000 +
>for a VHF tranciever is just plain gouging, IMHO.
>
>regards,
>Curt Reimer
>
>
> I've had a VAL 720 (or is it 760) in N16JA since first flight. Only
problem I had with it was in '92 when the automatic squelch got out of
adjustment. I found it out when I rolled it out of the hangar and fired it
up for a 2500 mile trip. In a panic, I called the factory (with visions of
listening to the radio hiss for 2500 miles). They calmly told me to pull
the radio, remove the tape over the squelch adjust hole, adjust the squelch
and send them the radio later for repair.
IMHO, they're good people.
One thing that may bother you; you can only tune the channel you're
listening to. Most gen aviation radios allow you to tune the channel you're
not listening to and then switch to it when you're ready. Not a real big
problem but it can be an annoyance.
John Ammeter
ammeterj(at)ammeterj.seanet.com
Seattle WA, USA
RV-6 N16JA
Flying 5 years
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vanremog(at)aol.com |
Curt-
I've had a VAL 760 in my Kitfox since 1989 and the only thing that has failed
is the large axial electrolytic capacitor inside (the body wasn't staked down
with RTV to withstand the vibes of 2-stoke engines). Other than that, it has
always worked well with receptions and transmissions always clear, even at
70+ mi distances.
I'm putting a Bendix-King KLX-135A in my RV-6A though because it's going to
be my "Lexus".
-N1GV
Vanremog(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "r.acker" <r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: daylight beneath the wheels - N517RL !!!!!! |
>Hi guys...
>
>It gives me great pleasure to let the list know that RV6A - N517RL is
>no longer a virgin...three years and one month, and 2400hrs after
>commencement, my baby left the nest.
>
CONGRATULATIONS ROB!!! I celebrated my birthday today as well (although I'm
a few years older than 517RL ). Keep us posted on the flight test progress.
Rob Acker (r.acker(at)ix.netcom.com)
Rancho Santa Margarita, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ammeterj(at)ammeterj.seanet.com (John Ammeter) |
| Subject: | Arlington Airfair BBQ and Hospitality Tent |
--=====================_833084333==_
I'm 'attaching' a copy of the article we'll be publishing in our Puget Sound
RVator Newsletter. I know some of you can't download attached articles; for
those people I'll try to synopsize what is in it.
The Puget Sound RVators will have a BBQ at the Arlington Airfair on Saturday
afternoon from 12:00 to 4:00 PM next to the RV parking area. Hamburgers and
Salmon will be the main course. The Hospitality Tent will be available for
relaxing in the shade and registering your aircraft as well as purchasing
admission tickets.
The Arlington Airfair will be held from July 10 thru July 15. Our RV
Blackjack Squadron will be one of the featured airshow performances.
All RV builders and flyers are urged to make it to this fly-in. Arlington
still has the small airfair feel along with the large airfair performances.
BTW, we still allow camping next to your aircraft no matter where you're parked.
Hope to see many of you there. Look for me in the Hospitality Tent. I'm
planning to bring my leather easy chair from my hangar; my wife thought I
threw it out. No way, it's comfortable enough to sleep in.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | billphil(at)ix.netcom.com (William Phillips ) |
| Subject: | Re: daylight beneath the wheels - N517RL !!!!!! |
Great job! I got close today myself. Went for a full power runup but
but had some tuning problems. I was so close I could taste it. Had
my nomex flight suit on....was primed....got up at 3:30 am and thought
the emergency stuff through...but no joy today.
Congrats from the boys at the old men's airplane building project!!
You even got to ride in it after all that work! What a deal!!!
Best Wishes
Bill Phillips
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
| Subject: | Left elevator question |
Well, I have a direct RV-related question. I just finished drilling the
left elevator skin to the skeleton. Reading the directions beforehand, I
noticed it said to NOT rivet the top skin to the trim spar yet, as the
hinge needs to be drilled to fit, too.
So, simple question -- do I not DRILL either, leaving the drilling until the
hinge is ready, too? Or do I drill now, but not rivet, then use the existing
holes to drill through into the hinge?
I'm not happy with the latter, as I can imagine opening the holes up when I
drill through the second time. However, maybe there's a danger leaving all
the holes until later.
Comments? I'm going to start removing the clecos Sunday afternoon some
time, so any comments before then should help me decide if I need to do
more drilling first.
-Joe
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-591-1037
Showpage Software, Inc. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
6121 St. Croix Ave. N.
Golden Valley, Mn 55422 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Springer <jerryflyrv(at)village.yvv.com> |
Curt Reimer wrote:
>
> Anyone have any experience with the VAL com radios? A freind picked one
> up for <$500 at OSH a couple of years ago and it has worked just fine.
> I'm thinking of doing the same this year, but I'd like to get some more
> feedback, if it's out there. I know you get what you pay for, but $1000 +
> for a VHF tranciever is just plain gouging, IMHO.
>
> regards,
> Curt Reimer
> Curt
I have been using VAL Radios in my RV-6 since 1989, I liked the first one
so well that I put a second one in so I can listen to ATC while also
talking to the guys I fly formation with and also have a back up radio.
Total cost for both radios was around $1200.00. These radios are clear
and work as good as anything else out there. They have a AB switch so
you can have one freq. tuned in and another on standby. The only problem
I had was when I got water in one of them. My oldest radio I took back to
them this last year and for $99 they went all through it updated to latest
revs. and put a same as new warrenty on it. IMHO good radios.
--
Jerry Springer RV-6 N906GS First Flight July 14, 1989 :-)
jerryflyrv(at)village.yvv.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ronald Vandervort <rvanderv(at)linknet.kitsap.lib.wa.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Paying Van's by credit card; |
Just because one might have authorized a downpayment on a kit
with the credit card, does not mean they will use the card to pay the
balance. (even though they have it on file.) They, I think by law, cannot
use the card on the balance unless you specifically instruct them once
again to use the card for that purpose. Thus if they don't hear from you
about payment, your kit gets held up------and all along you thought it
was paid. It happened to me....!
Ron Vandervort, RV-6, worken on the elevators, and dare I say; Picking up
quickbuild Wednesday.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com (William Costello ) |
| Subject: | Re: Left elevator question |
You wrote:
>
>Well, I have a direct RV-related question. I just finished drilling
>the left elevator skin to the skeleton. Reading the directions
>beforehand, I noticed it said to NOT rivet the top skin to the trim
>spar yet, as the hinge needs to be drilled to fit, too.
>
>So, simple question -- do I not DRILL either, leaving the drilling
>until the hinge is ready, too? Or do I drill now, but not rivet, then
>use the existing holes to drill through into the hinge?
>
>I'm not happy with the latter, as I can imagine opening the holes up
>when I drill through the second time. However, maybe there's a danger
>leaving all the holes until later.
>
>Comments? I'm going to start removing the clecos Sunday afternoon
>some time, so any comments before then should help me decide if I need
>to do more drilling first.
>
>-Joe
Joe, I recommend you drill the holes and later drill through them into
the hinge. If you are careful, it will cause not problem. Also, if
you wait till later, you might get some burrs between the skins that
you would have a hard time removing after the skins are riveted. A
compromise could be to drill the holes with a #41 drill and later with
a #40 if you have a #41.
Best regards,
Bill Costello
--
___ _____________________________
\ \ _ _ / /
\ /? \ / \ / Bill Costello Chicago \
X-*#####*******......./ N97WC (reserved) /
o/\ \ \_\ \ RV-6 on left elev. \
\__\ \ bcos(at)ix.netcom.com /
\____________________________\
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Royce Craven <roycec(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Fus jig available in Sydney |
>To Aussie RV6 builders within reach of Sydney, I have turned my
>fuselage out of the jig. Contact me privately if you know of anyone
>who will need a jig soon. I would like to recover the cost of
>materials (solid oregon - good jig) but I'm a soft touch.......
>
>BTW, the fus looks GREAT up the right way.
>
>Peter Bennett
>Sydney Australia
>Fuselage out of jig
>
Peter,
I 'll take it, if you know of any way to freight it to Melbourne.
Post a message or give me a call on 03 9499 6435
Royce Craven
roycec(at)ozemail.com.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JamesCone(at)aol.com |
I just used a notebook about the size that will fit in a shirt pocket. I
logged what I did in general terms each day along with the time spent rounded
to the nearest half hour. I kept a running total of the time. That
satisfied the FAA in my case.
Jim Cone
jamescone(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | billphil(at)ix.netcom.com (William Phillips ) |
| Subject: | The Old Men's Airplane Building Projec |
Hello:
I told many of you that I would try to summarize the events at the
"Old Mens Airplane Building Project" (OMABP) this week. Now, as Ive
told many of you, Im not an engine man so the best I can do is relate
to you the mumblings of one Thomas R. Jones, engineer superior on the
problems he had this week. First of all, about a year ago when we
bought the Vortec 262, Edelbrock was recommending their aluminum intake
manifold designed for the 229. Weve been using that manifold and even
called Edelbrock about it but they, and all the literature said to use
it. The main reason we havent flown yet is that we have a miss at
full power. The engine tends to stumble at 3800 rpm. Speaking with
Edelbrock this week they recommended that we modify that manifold by
machining the plenum divider just below the carburetor. The fix is to
cut a notch 3/8 x 1.5 inches out of the divider. Then they told us to
take a porting tool and match up the manifold to the head.
Additionally, we were running 100 LL with is really 100 HIGH LEAD for
this engine and Tom feels the valves were hanging up due to lead poi
soning. It appeared too, that the main jet metering rods in the
carburetor needed to be changed to one step leaner. We also changed
the plugs to one step cooler, now running ACR42TS gapped at .032. The
timing is set at 36 to 37 degrees total advance (including the
mechanical which is 24 degrees) on the primary ignition circuit and 34
BTDC on the secondary. The dwell is good and long, I think the gap is
in the teens somewhere, like .016. The thinking here is: if I get
detonation on take-off Ill switch to a more retarded timing. In
addition to all this we added TCP to the 100 LL and put in 10 gallons
of 89 Octane Chevron. And guess what? The engine ran great at full
power. We shut down, pulled the plugs for a look, and for the first
time all the cylinders appeared to be running uniformly, except the
plugs were exceptionally clean..almost too clean, i.e. too l
ean. So we figured that the poor fuel air distribution problem had
been solved, the mixture was close to being correct, wed burned the
lead out of the valve guides and the timing was finally right on.
I climbed into my fire retardant nomex flight suit after looking
at every nut and bolt that was visible, electrical wiring, fuel
couplings etc., and strapped myself into the RV-6A. The mission was to
go to the run-up area and do a full power run until the temps
disallowed continuing. I'd let her cool a bit, then blast off into the
sky. My brother was there and his last words were "Id try to run it
at full manifold pressure until it gets hot or blows up, which ever
comes first. If it hangs together take it for a walk around the patch,
but watch you a--" I did intend to fly if the engine ran well. At
the run-up area I came in on the power after the water temp passed 180
F. I got 26 inches MP and 2610 rpm, which is about 1000 lower than
normal. The OAT was 55 degrees F so the density altitude was about
2000. My first suspicion was that for the first time, I was run
ning it here in Las Vegas on a colder day. Maybe that had to do with
the lower rpm. I ran for 1 minute 42 seconds and saw a puff of blue
smoke come from the firewall up my legs and into my face. I popped the
throttle off, hit the ignition switch and all electricals. I grabbed
the fuel selector and switched it to OFF. Then I grabbed my fire
extinguisher. While doing this, the engine continued to fire, running
backward a few revolutions then forward a few, finally coming to rest.
Well, the plugs were so hot it just kept firing. The smoke turned out
to be coolant water from the radiator overflow that was overflowing and
flashing on the exhaust pipes forward of the firewall. A tiny amount
of steam made its way into the cockpit and thats what I saw. I
reacted so quickly that I didnt evaluate the smoke as steam but I
recalled a slight smell of alcohol thinking back which would have been
the ethylene glycol. After a few moments, it was clear to me that I
had seen steam. So I cranked up taxied back to the hangar where we
pulled the plugs for a look. They had heated all right. So, we opened
the carburetor and changed the main jet metering rods again to one step
richer as the main fix. We did that and took her out for another run
but guess what? At full power the miss came back. It was late in the
day and we called it quits. Today well watch the races I think.
Im sure Tom will solve the problem but Im no help thats for
sure. If anybody has any ideas, Ill pass them on to Tom. It might be
that the engine just can't breath at higher rpms with that 229 intake
manifold. The runners might just need to be of larger cross section.
Everyone feels that the engine shouldn't be this twitchy. The engine
runs so strong too. But it's got this little stumble at full power.
Fuel injection would be infinitely better too. Using this carburetor
is dinosaur technology but it keeps the package at a manageable level
for home-builders.
Thats about it for this week. Have a happy holiday.
Bill Phillips from the OMABP
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle (Matt G. Dralle 510-606-1001) |
| Subject: | Archive Contents... |
Hello everyone,
I just finished going through the entire 21Mb (size of the raw RV-List
Archive file) stripping out all the useless garbage I could find. I'm sure
there is great deal of other stuff that I missed, but I just searched for
certain things like copies of the FAQ, bounced mail, enclosues, and my
giant .signature text(!). You'll note that I have pruned my .signature
contents on emails to the List as seen below. I urge all of you to consider
this as well. I was amazed at how much of the Archive is signatures, and
other garbage. When all was said and done, I was able to reduce the size
of the archive by over 1.2Mb!!! And all I deleted was enclosures, FAQ
postings, and my .signauture (he said shyly).
Here are some suggestions I would apperciate everyone abiding by when
posting messages to the RV-List:
# No Enclosures!!
These things are *huge*. The worst part of it is that
most people can't even read them. *Please do not send
any enclosures to the RV-List.*
# Other Enclosure-Like Data
I'm not sure what the purpose of this data is, but it
appears at the end of a number of people's postings.
I looks like it might be some sort of encoding for
a Microsoft mailer program. Its about 30-60 lines long
and there were a *LOT* of them in the archive. It
is a MIME deal. Please try to disable this.
# Full Mail Box Messages
Please keep up on your RV-List email or unsubscribe from
the list. At times, I found as many as 20 of these annoying
messages in a row. Remote mailers should be smart enough
to look at the "Precedence: bulk" header and *not* return
these error messages. Alas, many don't however, and
these end up filling the archive. Please be a good
RV-List citizen and keep up on the volume of mail.
# Automatic Including of Reply Text
If your mailer includes a copy of the message you are
replying to, please take a minute to edit out the garbage
and try to make it look readable.
# Signature Files
Okay, so I am the biggest offender here and consider my own
ass appropriately kicked. Having said that, please take
a second look at your signature and decide if it's something
cute a couple of times, but too much all the time. Trim it
down a bit - the archive will thank you.
On a slightly different note, I made a couple of changes to the new Web
archive search engine and shaved about 10 seconds off the ANDing search.
Definately check out the search engine. It makes the Archive an incredibly
valuable resource.
Matt Dralle
RV-List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94550
510-606-1001 Voice | 510-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
>Lets suppose that I have what I thought was a finished part only to discover
>that the rivet holes where not drilled to final size. When I drill them out
>I will remove the rust preventor, be it alodine, anodizing, or just plane
>primer.
>
>So what do I do now? Dab a little primer in the new holes? Re-alodine?
>Re-anodize?
>Ron Dunn #80078
Ron, I'd drill the holes to final size and set rivets. The edge of the
hole not being primed shouldn't be of concern. Chips between sheets
shouldn't be much of a problem. If it works out and you can get a chip
chaser between the two pieces without too much trouble, go ahead and do so.
Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)ltec.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcon(at)ix.netcom.com (Robert M. Cornacchia ) |
You wrote:
>
>Anyone have any experience with the VAL com radios? A freind picked
one
>up for <$500 at OSH a couple of years ago and it has worked just fine.
>I'm thinking of doing the same this year, but I'd like to get some
more
>feedback, if it's out there. I know you get what you pay for, but
$1000 +
>for a VHF tranciever is just plain gouging, IMHO.
>
>regards,
>Curt Reimer
>
>
Hi Curt,
A friend of mine has a Val Com in his RV6 for about 5 years now and he
is very pleased with it. The only problem he has is that at certian
angles to oyher planes the reception is weak. The problem is that he
has a belly antenna between the mian gear and when the gear legs are in
between his plane and the plane he is talking to you get weak
reception. He put a top antenna on his RV and no more problem.
I am thinking of using a Val myself. The cheapest I seen was $650. in
Trade A Plane.
Good Luck,
Bob Cornacchia RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bill garrett <bgarrett(at)fast.net> |
| Subject: | Lycoming GPU Info Requested |
Hi Everyone-
Can anyone out there give me any information on Lycoming ground power units?
I found one through a posting by fellow lister Jim Cimino and went to look
at it today.
It came as part of a Great Lakes project that was recently purchased by an
American Airlines pilot who plans an O-360 for the project. The previous
owner told him that the engine was overhauled in the early 1970's at a cost
of $4800 but got no particular details about the overhaul.
He called Lycoming with the serial number and found that the engine is an
O-320 G4 (GPU) which was delivered in October of 1963 and is rated at 150
horsepower. Beyond this information Lycoming could not (or possibly from
liability concerns would not) tell him anything else about it. It is the
engine only, with no accessories and he is now asking $2000 for it.
I've seen some O-290 GPU's and they all had big bell housings on the front
to mount fans or whatever they were used for. This engine has none of this.
It looks exactly like a standard O-320 from what I can tell except that the
mount attach points are not machined for the conical mounts that would
normally be used with this engine. It has all the standard mounting points
for alternator, mags, fuel pump, vacuum pump, prop governor, carb, and has
dual ignition cylinders.
I was able to see inside the cylinders through the plug holes and it looks
clean and shiny in there. Through one of the access plates I was able to
see the connecting rods which had some very light rust in spots although the
rest of the inside was clean. It has hydraulic lifters and the valves look
new. The outside of the engine needs to be repainted but is clean except
for some light rust on the bottom halves (the steel parts) of the cylinders.
There is no evidence of repair anywhere on the case or cylinders. There are
no cracked or broken cooling fins. the prop flange has lightening holes
between the studs (which the owner thinks was standard for that time) but is
the same thickness and configuration as a standard O-320.
The owner has the engine advertised in Trade-A-Plane right now but told me
that since I contacted him first he would give me the right of first refusal
if anyone called and had a real interest in purchasing it (but I'd like to
make the decision soon). Right now I'm leaning toward buying it and taking
a chance that it is a good engine. I would tear it down completely, check
its tolerances, have the conical motor mounts machined into the mount
points, paint the exterior, install all new seals and gaskets, and
reassemble it.
I would like to have as much information as possible to make my decision. I
know that GPU's used to be one of the engines of choice on homebuilts
because they were cheaper and legal in homebuilts. Did they carry added
risks? This one has the advantage of not having to remove a lot of extra
aluminum that was put there for some special application. Since I want to
do my own engine work and one of the big negatives of buying a certificated
engine is having to remove the data plate and make it relatively "worthless"
in doing so, this seems like a decent alternative if it is considered a
sound engine. I'll still spend plenty for all the accessories but I'd know
what I have in doing so.
Could this be a standard O-320 that was sold more cheaply just because it
was not certificated? Or did Lycoming actually build GPU's to different
standards than certificated engines (it surely looks the same)? Did they
use the same parts in a GPU or might they have assembled them with parts
that would not pass certification standards? While I'm asking all these
questions, does anyone who is flying the older O-320's with the conical
mounts have any concerns about them (it seems dynafocal is the word these
days)? I $2000 a fair price for what I've described here?
Sorry for being so long with this but I want to make the most informed
decision possible. I would appreciate any factual information anyone can
provide but will also be glad to hear your opinions. Reply to me personally
or to the list.
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
Bill
BTW - Removed the airplane signature as per Matt's request. Took me 63
minutes to download the new Archives last night as it was so I can see
trying to economize on space. Great job with the Search Engine and
Archives, Matt! Thanks!
Bill Garrett Barb Garrett
RV-6A airplane builder Quilter and Quilt Historian
bgarrett(at)fast.net Pottstown, PA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David A. Barnhart" <barnhart(at)crl.com> |
On Sat, 25 May 1996, Ronald M. Dunn wrote:
> Lets suppose that I have what I thought was a finished part only to discover
> that the rivet holes where not drilled to final size. When I drill them out
> I will remove the rust preventor, be it alodine, anodizing, or just plane
> primer.
SInce you are going to put an aluminum alloy rivet in the hole, I would
not worry about it. (In fact, a loty of times, I countersink after I've
primed a part.)
If you were putting a steel bolt in the hole, then you may want to
consider putting the bolt in wet with primer. In most cases, however,
the Cad plating on the bolt will provide the corrosion protection.
Best Regards,
Dave Barnhart
rv-6 sn 23744
fitting fwd side skins
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pneumatic rivet squeezer question |
| From: | Mike Kukulski <kukulski(at)indirect.com> |
Snipped alot of discussion about clearances and interference spec on
rivet dimples...
While I would never suggest that a meticulous builder should lower his
standards of workmanship, I think this worrying about rivet dimple specs
to the third decimal is getting a little extreme. If you dimple a rivet
hole and a rivet sits in it well, and then looks good to you when you set
the rivet, I would say you've done the job. Stop measuring the things and
get on with the building!
The same comment applies to the use of Avery vs Cleaveland dimple dies,
using one big whack or 10 tiny taps to set a dimple, etc.. If what you're
doing works and looks good to you, press on! If you agonize over dimples
you're going to develop an ulcer when you get to the stuff that really
requires serious head-scratching.
Mike Kukulski (kukulski(at)indirect.com)
RV-4 N96MK (rigging ailerons)
(Don't count the number of whacks when I dimple - don't check my finished
dimples with a jeweler's loupe either!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rwoodard(at)lawyernet.com |
Please let's not start a big long priming discussion... I just have a
few questions.... really!
1. I'm using the SW two-part epoxy, zinc chromate, self-etching primer.
Do I need to scuff the parts with a scotchbrite pad before I shoot them
or does the self-etching aspect of the primer make scuffing overkill.
2. I've heard suggestions to use MEK or Simple Green to clean the
aluminum parts before priming. With Simple Green, it seems obvious that
I should rinse the parts thoroughly before priming. Is it necessary to
rinse after cleaning with MEK?
3. Mineral spirits or Lacquer Thinner for clean-up? Is there a
difference? What's the difference?
BTW, I made my first real mistake (of many to come, I'm sure) on my RV-8
HS forward spar. I mis-drilled one of the holes in the HS-814 I was
fabricating. New stock ordered from ACSpruce yesterday... I'll try it
again (a little wiser now) in a few days.
TIA for the advice re: painting.
Rod Woodard-----RWoodard(at)lawyernet.com------RV-8, #80033
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jpl(at)showpg.mn.org (Joe Larson) |
| Subject: | Vortec Project at B.A.P. |
> Bill Phillips from the OMABP
Bill's description of the week's events was very thorough (and long). See
his earlier posting if you haven't read it already. Thank you, Bill -- I
enjoyed reading your posting.
I'm concerned about a few things. First, if the engine requires unleaded
fuel, there's going to be a problem filling up. How many airports have
auto fuel available?
I'm also concerned about the other problems Bill mentions, especially
the mixture issues. This engine shouldn't be having these kinds of
problems -- it doesn't in auto uses. Something weird is going on.
Bill -- keep us informed! Thanks.
-J
--
Joe Larson jpl(at)showpg.mn.org 612-591-1037
Showpage Software, Inc. http://www.wavefront.com/~showpg
6121 St. Croix Ave. N.
Golden Valley, Mn 55422 Future RV-6A pilot.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rdunn(at)ionet.net (Ronald M. Dunn) |
In Van's RV-8 empennage manual, pertaining to the HS front spar, he says to
"Pilot drill the holes in HS-810 and HS-814, preferably in a drill press,
with a #40 drill bit."
In Van's drawing RV-8 3PP, four holes are noted with, "Drill 3/16 dia in
assembly with fuselage"
In Frank Justice's manual he says NOT to drill the 4 holes marked "drill in
assembly with fuselage"
I re-read Frank's manual AFTER I pilot drilled all the holes to the HS-602
er -802 spars, per Van's manual.
So have I screwed up already, guys?
Thanks for your help.
Ron Dunn #80078
RV-8 > HS in jig
Broken Arrow, OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Archive Contents... |
Hi Matt,
Some of us are not too skilled at modifying list addresses, signatures,etc.
Can you forgive us?
On another note, Van's answered my request for a harness 5th point attach
point by saying: The belt is available, but the design is not available for
attaching the belt. They say you will have to design your own. Has anyone on
the list designed such a bracket for 5th point harness attachment? Would you
be willing to share it? Thanks.
Mal rvbildr(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <74774.54(at)CompuServe.COM> |
---------- Forwarded Message ----------
From: Rick Osgood, 74774,54
DATE: 5/27/96 8:16 AM
RE: Copy of: RV-List: Priming :-0
Here is my two cents...
1) Yes, you should scuff up the aluminum to get the primer to hold better...
2) Simple green works well but I use Naptha, this gets rid of the residue.
3) I use lacquer thinner as it does a better job at cleaning out the sprayer.
Either will work.
On your question one you said you were using a two part primer. Are you using
the SW wash primer....
If so, you may consider switching to there other primer. Its called a marine
primer, BY50 (I think). SW does not
recommend the primer wash for this type application. The BY stuff is premixed,
can be thinned 20% and is hard as a rock when done.
Hope this helped
Rick 74774.54(at)compuserve.com
wings in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com (William Costello ) |
| Subject: | Open brief letter to Bob Nuckolls |
Hi Bob,
Just wanted to say I received the AeroElectric Connection on Friday, I
think it was.
I have started reading it and, as almost everyone else says, it is
great. With a BS and MS in physics, the review of DC circuits is
fairly easy to understand, but I like the way you relate it continually
(thus far) to the practical airplane installation side.
Between your book -- (316) 685-8617 -- for those reading this and
interested, and the Sky Ranch Engineering Manual for aircraft engines
by John Schwaner -- (916) 421-7672, and Tony Bingelis' books --
especially Firewall Forward and the one on Engines (see Sport
Aviation), this building process is really a fun learning experience.
Top all that off with participation in this list of about 500 RV
builders and . . . life is good! Best wishes on Memorial Day to all.
--
Bill Costello | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com | Chicago | 312-445-1246
Building RV-6 or 6A | Reserved N97WC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James M. Brewster" <76263.3707(at)CompuServe.COM> |
Hello. My name is Jim Brewster and I am age 62 and a retired attorney. I own
and fly with my son a restored 1967 C172. I have commenced the tail kit for an
RV6A and have just completed the rear spar of the horizontal stabilizer. I
attended a weekend builders school in March at Avery Tool on Hicks Airfield NW
of Ft. Worth and believe it to have been an invaluable experience. I am a long
time member of EAA Chapter 200 and recently joined Chapter 868 (an RV squadron
it looks like). I am looking forward to attending the Boone, Iowa RV Fly In
June 8th. I guess I ran across the RV List at one of the RV Web Pages.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DM Cooke <dmcooke(at)rand.nidlink.com> |
Re:I am thinking of using a Val myself. The cheapest I seen was $650. in
Trade A Plane.
I have been using a KX99 hand held in my Citabria for over six years. I
paid $575.00 for it when new. It has 700 communication and 200
navigation channels. It has seven weather channels and ten programable
memory locations. It can be operated on a nicad battery or eight AA
alkaline cells. It can be connected to the aircraft power through the
cigarette lighter socket or wired through a connector box.
My radio has always worked perfect in the hand held mode. I had some
problems when I connected it to the aircraft power system. However,
these were all traceable to poor or improper connections or faulty
microphones and were not a fault of the radio. I have logged clear
transmissions in excess of 150 miles. It is all I have ever needed for
VFR flying.
My KX99 is held to the panel by velcro. I do a lot of aerobatics and the
radio has faithfully stayed in it's location.
Manufacturers are now making GPS/COM units. These do more than my old
KX99 and they include a moving map display for navigation. They cost
around $1400.00 at this time.
Regards,
Dave Cooke, RV4, empennage finished, wings 80%.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RFlunker(at)aol.com |
Hello everyone.
You guessed it, I made a mistake and am now trying to figure out the best
workaround. I'm working on the right aileron, and need some advice. I'm
using the .020 control surface skins, so they were not prepunched as are the
.016's. As it happened, there was a slight bow in the aileron spar, such
that some of the holes got rather close to the radius of the flange. In
hindsight, I should have "predrilled" the skin and then used those holes to
match the centerline on the spar just as you would with a predrilled skin.
Not having done that, when I dimpled the spar, I apparently applied some
pressure to the radius such that I now have "waves" in the spar flange. I'm
told that the problem is only cosmetic, in that the waves may show through to
the rivetted skin. Since the skin is already dimpled, starting over with a
new spar might be difficult since I'm unsure how I would accurately center
the holes. The good news is that the high points of the waves are at the
holes. Since I'm using the .020 skins, I'm strongly considering using the
"wavy" spar as opposed to starting over with a new one. However, there is
one other problem. Some of the dimple holes on the spar are a little too
shallow. Redimpling might increase the wave, so my question is, can I
countersink the dimpled holes just slightly so that the skin dimples seat
properly?? Suggestions please..
Thanks in advance...
Dick Flunker, Nearing the end of the right wing
RV-6A - N326DB - res
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
---------- Forwarded Message ----------
From: "James M. Brewster", INTERNET:76263.3707(at)CompuServe.COM
>Hello. My name is Jim Brewster and I am age 62 and a retired attorney. I own
>and fly with my son a restored 1967 C172. I have commenced the tail kit for an
>RV6A . . . . I am a long time member of EAA Chapter 200 and recently joined
>Chapter 868 (an RV squadron it looks like). I am looking forward to attending
>the Boone, Iowa RV Fly In June 8th. I guess I ran across the RV List at one of
>the RV Web Pages.
Jim . . welcome aboard and congratulations on your selection of a fine
example of what un-certified aviation can accomplish! You won't find
a better place on the web for getting your RV questions answered.
Since you're so close to OSH, I hope to meet you there this summer.
I'm easy to find . . . look up B&C Specialty Products and visit thier
booth.
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | frankv(at)pec.co.nz |
| Subject: | HS front spar (HS-614, HS-814) |
>BTW, I made my first real mistake (of many to come, I'm sure) on my
>RV-8 HS forward spar. I mis-drilled one of the holes in the HS-814 I
>was fabricating. New stock ordered from ACSpruce yesterday... I'll
>try it again (a little wiser now) in a few days.
Me too with my HS-614 :-(. The same evening I ruined my HS-610 by
allowing the hacksaw blade to scrape & cut into the metal of the web
:-( I spent last night practising on the junk HS-614, and I've now got
the hacksawing technique and drilling distance figured. The HS-614 is
made from 1" right-angle Aluminium, and calls for a 3/32 radius hole;
I assume the HS-814 is the same. I drilled the hole using a 3/16 bit,
and found that the centre of the hole needs to be 1/4" in from the
edge, rather than the 7/32 I calculated. Also, make sure your drill is
vertical. I guess I'm going to have to go down to the hardware store
(again) to get some thin files to smooth down the slot that's cut down
to the hole.
I feel like a "Bunny's guide to RV building" would be useful to me,
and possibly to many new RV builders. The Orndorff video is great, but
it doesn't go into enough detail for me. In the video, making the HS
front spar starts with (more or less) "First make the HS-610 & HS-614
pieces as per the plans... here they are, all done". There's a few
pages on the Web with hints and stuff (eg Mike Hartmann's page), but
mostly they don't go into much detail either (not enough for me,
anyway). Perhaps I'll put together an RV Bunny page... what do people
think? Is there demand for such a thing?
And now a question: My HS-602 front spar pieces both seem to be too
short by 3/32" or so. Should I cut the flanges the 5 1/4" inches back
from the middle, or should I allow for the 3/32" here and only cut
them back 5 5/32" ? And should I do the 6 degree bend in the tip
flange first (although I don't think that's going to make much
difference to the measurement)?
Frank.
--
--------------------------------------------------------------------
frankv(at)pec.co.nz | "Knowledge=Power=Energy=Matter=Mass;
Frank van der Hulst | A good bookshop is just a genteel
Software Engineer | Black Hole that knows how to read".
PEC(NZ) Ltd (Cardax), Marton | Terry Pratchett, "Guards! Guards!"
http://www.pec.co.nz/~frankv/ |
--------------------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)CompuServe.COM> |
| Subject: | RE: Open letter to Bob Nuckolls |
Bill,
Thank you for your kind words. It's good for us to get feedback
on the work . . . both positive and negative. I prefer to
consider all commments in the light of "critical review."
I'm now working on getting all of our old subscribers updated
to the same level as the book you received. You'll also get
a mailing in a few weeks concerning some new activites here at
Medicine River Press. One will concern the publishing of a catalog
of products and services in electrical systems components. We
don't propose to compete with anyone in this service because (1)
I plan to stock only those components which I would use if I
were building an airplane and (2) unlike other mail-order firms,
we're available by phone or e-mail for timely assitance in parts
selection, installation and trouble shooting . . . all with 100%
satisfaction guarantee . . . a service not offered elsewhere.
We're also going to announce a new periodical magazine called
TechTips for Amateur Airplane Builders. The focus will be on
electrical systems issues initially because that's my personal
forte'. However, we'll soon be soliciting other authors to
contribute from their stores of knowlege on airframes and
engines. TechTips will carry no advertising and no 4-color
articles on war-birds or completed projects . . nothing but
hammer-and-tongs solutions to building and maintenance problems.
For Bill and all the others who have supported us and helped
us build over the years, our most heartfelt thanks. With this
edition of the book, we've just topped 1000 subscribers in about
15 countries . . . we could not be more pleased that the work
has been found so useful!
Bob Nuckolls - Publisher
Dee Douglas - Managing Editor
Medicine River Press
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EBundy2620(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Mounting engine on 6A |
I'm getting ready to mount an engine on my 6A. Can anyone give me some input
on moving it around without the wings? I don't have enough room in my shop
for the airplane with the wings on, so I need to be able to move it around
without them.
I've made a wing spar plug out of wood so I can mount the gear, but what
happens when the engine is installed? Can you just pull out the wooden
"spar" while it's in this configuration to mount the wings? It seems as
though the weight of everything aft of the spar would cause a lot of stress
on the spar bulkhead area if there wasn't a spar-type object in there. Or do
you have to support the whole airframe?
Also, any tips or suggestions for pitfalls to avoid in this area are more
than welcome.
Thanks,
Ed Bundy
ebundy2620(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bob Skinner <BSkinner(at)ltec.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mounting engine on 6A |
> Can anyone give me some input on moving it around without the wings?
>I've made a wing spar plug out of wood so I can mount the gear, but what
>happens when the engine is installed? Can you just pull out the wooden
>"spar" while it's in this configuration to mount the wings? It seems as
>though the weight of everything aft of the spar would cause a lot of stress
>on the spar bulkhead area if there wasn't a spar-type object in there. Or do
>you have to support the whole airframe?
>Ed Bundy
Ed, I've wondered the same thing. I think I'm going to have my local
welder make up some spar spacers that duplicate the spar exactly. I'll
transfer the bolt pattern from the 604 to the steel that we'll use for this
purpose. On the end that sticks out past the fuselage, I'll have provisions
for removeable legs (square tubing that goes straight down) and am thinking
of putting castoring wheels on the end of the legs. If this project turns
out like I envision, I should be able to use the spar fitting for aligning
and drilling the gear leg weldments and then when turned over, insert the
legs. I would think that, if done well, we should have no trouble selling
this set-up to other RV-6A builders. Maybe this is something that Avery
could produce. Bob Skinner RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Pat McClung <pmc123(at)airmail.net> |
DM Cooke wrote:
>
> Re:I am thinking of using a Val myself. The cheapest I seen was $650. in
> Trade A Plane.
>
> I have been using a KX99 hand held in my Citabria for over six years. I
> paid $575.00 for it when new. It has 700 communication and 200
> navigation channels. It has seven weather channels and ten programable
> memory locations. It can be operated on a nicad battery or eight AA
> alkaline cells. It can be connected to the aircraft power through the
> cigarette lighter socket or wired through a connector box.
>
> My radio has always worked perfect in the hand held mode. I had some
> problems when I connected it to the aircraft power system. However,
> these were all traceable to poor or improper connections or faulty
> microphones and were not a fault of the radio. I have logged clear
> transmissions in excess of 150 miles. It is all I have ever needed for
> VFR flying.
>
> My KX99 is held to the panel by velcro. I do a lot of aerobatics and the
> radio has faithfully stayed in it's location.
>
> Manufacturers are now making GPS/COM units. These do more than my old
> KX99 and they include a moving map display for navigation. They cost
> around $1400.00 at this time.
>
> Regards,
> Dave Cooke, RV4, empennage finished, wings 80%.
I have had excellent results from the Michel MX11. One installed about
4 yrs ago in a prior homebuilt and recently in my RV-6. A radio shop
recently tested it with their magic boxes and pronounced it very live
and well. I had one failure about 2 yrs ago, shipped it to the factory
and it came back with yellow tag and full operation in about 10 days at
a cost of about 70, including all postage, etc. both ways. Service is
fast and efficient. They also had some good free advice on installation
in my RV.
Pat McCLung
N3XM - - Flying
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rick Osgood <74774.54(at)CompuServe.COM> |
I have two questions for any one who can help.
1) In my kit (bought from other builder) I seem to have received tank ribs that
are all the same thickness. According to the plans the two end ribs
should be .032 or thicker and mine are all .025. Anyone else see this
problem or am I missing someting.
2) In building the bellcrank support at station 73.5 I cut the slot based on the
plans. Problem is the plans are for a right wing and I am working on the
left wing. My solution was to get another rib (right wing pile) and make
this a left wing rib. As
far as I can see the only difference between left and right ribs is the
tooling hole location. I also note that in Frank J's notes he indicates
this location problem is
not critical. Anyone have a pro or con opinion to my solution or Frank's
note??
Thanks to all in advance
Rick MN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KennyCobb(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: HS front spar (HS-614, HS-814) |
Well Frank you can leave a gap between the two ends of the HS-602 or what
I did was to put a 016 shim on both ends of the finished front spar to
get the proper overall lenght.
Ken Crabtree
Bakersfield, CA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AB320FLYER(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Velocity Crash Update: Electronic Ignition |
Mark wrote:
>As for getting to the switch in time on takeoff, the highest workload regime
in
>my book, permit me to suggest that we do not want to plant the seed in
fellow
>pilots' minds that an engine difficulty on takeoff should have them reaching
for
>the mag switch instead of concentrating on *flying the airplane.*
(snip)
>By the way, this proposition of *fly the airplane first* is not intended
solely
>for low-timers, or some condescending notion of the "lowest common
>denominator":
>it is long standing and conventional FAA / Boeing / McDonnell-Douglas /
Lockheed
>doctrine (sorry about not including Airbus, AB320Flyer, but I can't
understand
>their manuals!) aimed at pilots with tens of thousands of hours, regular
>recurrency training, and annual or semi-annual proficiency checkrides where
>engine failures on takeoff are the rule, not the exception.
Mark,
I definitely agree with the concept of flying the airplane first and that not
adhering to it can nick a pilot no matter what his experience level, as
evidenced by the 1011 accident in the Everglades. But there's such a wide
variety of failure and partial failure circumstances that can occur, that I
certainly wouldn't want to discourage at least a short and practiced routine
of checking fuel and ignition after the airplane was stabilized. Let's face
it there is a big difference between departing in a nighttime simulator setup
into a low ceiling with a failed engine, and losing the engine in your RV at
350 ft VFR, in terms of visual references and complexity of the analysis
required. I would certainly hate to bend my airplane in a forced landing
only to find the fuel selector slightly out of the detent. The one aspect of
this that puts me at a disadvantage is that I've never had an actual engine
failure and therefore cannot accurately evaluate the pucker factor.
It's okay that you didn't include the Airbus with Boeing and M. D. because
you're right the manuals were atrocious. Fortunately after several rewrites
they are now tolerable, they even have pictures.
Joel (RV8 - HS skeleton in the jig)
ab320flyer(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: HS front spar |
| From: | Mike Kukulski <kukulski(at)indirect.com> |
You wrote:
>I re-read Frank's manual AFTER I pilot drilled all the holes to the HS-602
>er -802 spars, per Van's manual.
>
>So have I screwed up already, guys?
You are in fine shape - nothing to worry about, You will use the pilot
drilled holes to drill the attachment holes to final size when attaching
the stab to the fuselage.
Mike Kukulski (kukulski(at)indirect.com)
RV-4 N96MK, rigging right aileron
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Claus Wintop <wintop(at)post.omnitel.net> |
| Subject: | Walter engine & RV-4 |
In Europe a very competitive buy is the Walter engine made in the Chech
Republic. It's not a convertion engine but a genuine airplane engine with 6
cylinder and 160 HP Walter engine.There might be a CG-problem to solve since
the engine is longer than the Lycoming engine. Does anybody have experience
with this engine?
Claus Wintop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Claus Wintop <wintop(at)post.omnitel.net> |
| Subject: | Walter engine & RV-4 |
In Europe a very competitive buy is the Walter engine made in the Chech
Republic. It's not a convertion engine but a genuine airplane engine with 6
cylinder and 160 HP Walter engine.There might be a CG-problem to solve since
the engine is longer than the Lycoming engine. Does anybody have experience
with this engine?
Claus Wintop
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | WStucklen(at)aol.com |
> He had been a "hands-on" mechanic for years prior to
>joining the FAA and was very knowledgable.
>Bob Skinner RV-6 BSkinner(at)ltec.net
You got yourself a "real" inspector, Bob. Mine were only out to make
themselves look good.
Fred Stucklen RV-6A N925RV
wstucklen(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com (William Costello ) |
| Subject: | Misplaced hole question |
Hi Folks,
I drilled a misplaced hole through the skin of the elevator trim tab.
The skin is still off the tab spar by itself. The hole is on what will
be the bottom face of the tab. It is a perfectly drilled #40 hole,
just perfectly in the wrong place. It is about 3/4 inch from any edge.
Any suggestions on how to fill it? I am thinking about practicing with
a small fiberglas kit I have -- cut about a 3/8 inch square and glas it
on the inside of the skin with the resin filling the hole just above
the outside surface for sanding. I am completely unfamiliar with bondo
and don't know if it would serve here.
Thanks for any help and best regards,
--
Bill Costello | bcos(at)ix.netcom.com | Chicago | 312-445-1246
Building RV-6 or 6A | Reserved N97WC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Brian Yablon <brian(at)lanart.com> |
| Subject: | HS front spar (HS-614, HS-814) |
Re: Screw-ups on HS-814/HS-614
I too am a member of the Do-It-Again Club. I got it right the 2nd
time by using a router table with an adjustable fence, and a 3/16"
carbide double-flute straight-cutter bit. I set the fence to a hair
wider than .125" from the cutter edge, and just ran the angle along
the fence and into the cutter (turning at relatively low speed) the
requisite distance. Using a stop block clamped to the router table at
the outfeed side will precisely set the amount you will route into the
stock. Adjust the cutter height to just above .125" to prevent
gouging the "web" of the angle. Voila! A perfect radiused hole that
just needs some edge-breaking and Scotch-Brite polish.
I made my router table a while back for general woodworking, but it
seems as though I am always finding new uses for it. For those
interested, I retrofitted a Delta Unifence to my Taiwanese table saw
(a fairly inexpensive way to add super precision to an otherwise
unspectacular saw). The unifence comes with a laminated tabletop that
attaches to one side of my saw. To add router table capabilities, I
cut a hole in the table top, and routed a rabbet around the hole, in
which sits a piece of 1/4" lexan flush with the tabletop surface. I
screw my router, upside down, to the bottom of the lexan. Now, the
fence gives the same precision to my router as it does to the saw.
Lacking a router table, you could probably kluge up some contrivance
from a drill press that places the HS-614 angle with the outside face
of the "flange" towards the chuck. Use the same 3/16" bit. I would
strongly caution against putting the outside face of the flange flat
on the drill press table, since this would place the bit at
essentially zero clearance from the "web", opening the door to
frustrating mistakes (trust me, I know).
Of course, you could also use a Bridgeport...
Brian Yablon brian(at)lanart.com
RV-6A #24751
HS skeleton in jig
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Craig-Stearman" <tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil> |
Ron Dunn wrote:
>Lets suppose that I have what I thought was a finished part only to
discover
that the rivet holes where not drilled to final size. When I drill them
out
I will remove the rust preventor, be it alodine, anodizing, or just plane
primer.
>So what do I do now? Dab a little primer in the new holes? Re-alodine?
Re-anodize?
Ron,
Don't get all wrapped around the axle on this. Just drill the hole to
final size and rivet. Consider that, even with a primed hole, the act of
inserting and driving the rivet will likely wear the primer away. For your
own comfort level, go out to the nearest airport maintenance hangar and
check out the inside of your favorite spam can. Many of them are not
primed at all.
Regards,
Tom Craig-Stearman
tcraig-stearman(at)laugate1.lau.aetc.af.mil
RV-4 awaiting finish kit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Louis Willig <larywil(at)Op.Net> |
| Subject: | Vibration Damper |
A few nights ago, while talking to an RV-4 owner, the subject of a vibration
damper came up. This gentleman said he and some other RV owners have put
some sort of vibration dampers between the prop and the prop flange. The
results were a very noticable decrease in vibration. I will soon be the
owner of an RV-4. Though it will not be a plane that I have built, I expect
to add and subtract just as most of you who are building you own aircraft.
I am new on this list and have never heard of a damper placed between the
prop and flange on any conventional aircraft. Can someone tell me if they
have experience with this concept.
ALSO, I will be taking my first ride in an RV-4 next week with intentions
to purchase the aircraft. The kit wasa purchased in '89,, and finished in
1991. It has 250 hrs on the A/F and about 600 hrs.SMOH on its used 0-320
Lyc. I have looked at a zillion RVs at Kosh and S&F, but,"if you didn't
build one you won't know what to look for" is worth remembering. So, any one
who wants to give me advice is invited to do so. I don't want to clog up the
RV-list so your replies can be personal. If, on the other hand, you have
information to share with other new subscribers, I guess that's what the
list is for.
Thanks, Louis Willig.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | twg(at)blink.ho.att.com (Tom Goeddel(x5278)) |
| Subject: | Re: Misplaced hole question |
>> I drilled a misplaced hole through the skin of the elevator trim tab.
>> The skin is still off the tab spar by itself. The hole is on what will
>> be the bottom face of the tab. It is a perfectly drilled #40 hole,
>> just perfectly in the wrong place. It is about 3/4 inch from any edge.
>>
>> Any suggestions on how to fill it? I am thinking about practicing with
I think I would just dimple the misplaced hole and stick in a flush rivet.
Of course you lose the benefit of having an extra "lightening hole" that way...
Tom Goeddel
RV-6a (still on those #&*!@ wings...)
t.goeddel@bell-labs.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Bordelon <greg(at)brokersys.com> |
I have come to the stage where I need to pay out some real money for
radios. I
like the Terra line, as they are so small, and they have the intercom.
capacity.
however the King/Bendix line are less expensive.
I was thinking of just getting COM and Transponder with encoder.
John Cocker RV6A (Making the baffles for the motor)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------
John, my airplane is equipt with a KING KY 96 com and KT 76 transponder.
I replaced my troublesome Terra encoder with an ACK encoder. I like the ACK
products so much that I bought their ELT as well. I use a Garmin 95xls for
nav. All of the equipment has worked flawlessly for the past two years. I
fly VFR and communicate with ATC "Centers" when flying X-country, no
problemoe.
Your money will be well spent on KING. Also, VAL (best radio buy in
America) makes a very good radio......I just did not like the tuning knob
(switch) arrangement.
ps. I bought a seperate PS Engineering Intercom........didn't use the one
built into the radio.....not enough flexability for me.
Greg Bordelon
greg(at)brokersys.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Misplaced hole question |
Bill Costello wrote...(regarding a # 40 hole in the wrong place on the elevator
skin....)
>Any suggestions on how to fill it? I am thinking about practicing with
>a small fiberglas kit I have -- cut about a 3/8 inch square and glas it
>on the inside of the skin with the resin filling the hole just above
>the outside surface for sanding. I am completely unfamiliar with bondo
>and don't know if it would serve here.
Bill, firstly many thanks for your congratulations... It sure feels good.
In regard ti the above, I think I would simply countersink the hole and set a
AD426 rivet in place - no-one will question why it's there, and if they do tell
them you placed a doubler in or something.....
Regards, Rob Lee N517RL - flying RV6A (still cant believe it!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | randall(at)edt.com (Randall Henderson) |
| Subject: | Re: Wing questions |
> 1) In my kit (bought from other builder) I seem to have received tank ribs that
> are all the same thickness. According to the plans the two end ribs
> should be .032 or thicker and mine are all .025. Anyone else see this
> problem or am I missing someting.
Yes the end ribs should be .032 -- in my kit they were. Better call Van's.
> 2) In building the bellcrank support at station 73.5 I cut the slot based on
the
> plans. Problem is the plans are for a right wing and I am working on the
> left wing. My solution was to get another rib (right wing pile) and make
> this a left wing rib. As
> far as I can see the only difference between left and right ribs is the
> tooling hole location. I also note that in Frank J's notes he indicates
> this location problem is
> not critical. Anyone have a pro or con opinion to my solution or Frank's
> note??
The main difference is the side the FLANGE is on! The tooling holes should
line up if you hold a -L and -R rib back-to-back.
For the slot width, you just want to make sure that your slot is no wider
than the distance between the angles that the bellcrank bolt goes through.
Some people just cut it to that width. Any extra sticking into the space
between the angles is just that -- extra.
Randall Henderson
randall(at)edt.com
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles H Fink <CHFINK(at)envc.sandia.gov> |
| Subject: | CAD panel drawings |
You wrote
>Does anyone have any panel drawings in AutoCAD or
>MicroStation?
>Bob Japundza
I laid out my RV-6 panel with Micrografx Designer 4.0, file
extension .ds4. This program will print to a standard laser
printer using 8.4 X 11 paper with enough accuracy to locate
the screw and face holes for drilling and it is less expensive
than CAD programs (about $450).
May 16, 1996 - May 28, 1996
RV-Archive.digest.vol-bl